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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4c55cd --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53897 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53897) diff --git a/old/53897-0.txt b/old/53897-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3a1d576..0000000 --- a/old/53897-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13377 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Trails of the Pathfinders, by George Bird -Grinnell - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Trails of the Pathfinders - - -Author: George Bird Grinnell - - - -Release Date: January 5, 2017 [eBook #53897] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS*** - - -E-text prepared by Larry B. Harrison, Charlie Howard, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 53897-h.htm or 53897-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/53897/53897-h/53897-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/53897/53897-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/trailsofpathfind00grinrich - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - - - - -TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS - - - * * * * * * - -IN THE SAME SERIES - -PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS - - - =The Boy’s Catlin.= My Life Among the Indians, by GEORGE - CATLIN. Edited by MARY GAY HUMPHREYS. Illustrated. - 12mo. _net_ $1.50 - - =The Boy’s Hakluyt.= English Voyages of Adventure and - Discovery, retold from Hakluyt by EDWIN M. BACON. - Illustrated. 12mo. _net_ $1.50 - - =The Boy’s Drake.= By EDWIN M. BACON. Illustrated. 12mo. - _net_ $1.50 - - =Trails of the Pathfinders.= By GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL. - Illustrated. 12mo. _net_ $1.50 - - * * * * * * - - -TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS - - -[Illustration: - - CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK WERE MUCH PUZZLED AT THIS POINT TO KNOW - WHICH OF THE RIVERS BEFORE THEM WAS THE MAIN MISSOURI.] - - -TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS - -by - -GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL - -Author of “Blackfoot Lodge Tales,” “Pawnee Hero -Stories and Folk Tales,” “The Story of the -Indian,” “Indians of Today,” etc. - -Illustrated - - - - - - - -New York -Charles Scribner’S Sons -1911 - -Copyright, 1911, by -Charles Scribner’S Sons - -Published April, 1911 - -[Illustration] - - - - -PREFACE - - -The chapters in this book appeared first as part of a series of -articles under the same title contributed to _Forest and Stream_ -several years ago. At the time they aroused much interest and there was -a demand that they should be put into book form. - -The books from which these accounts have been drawn are good reading -for all Americans. They are at once history and adventure. They deal -with a time when half the continent was unknown; when the West--distant -and full of romance--held for the young, the brave and the hardy, -possibilities that were limitless. - -The legend of the kingdom of El Dorado did not pass with the passing of -the Spaniards. All through the eighteenth and a part of the nineteenth -century it was recalled in another sense by the fur trader, and with -the discovery of gold in California it was heard again by a great -multitude--and almost with its old meaning. - -Besides these old books on the West, there are many others which every -American should read. They treat of that same romantic period, and -describe the adventures of explorers, Indian fighters, fur hunters and -fur traders. They are a part of the history of the continent. - -NEW YORK, _April_, 1911. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - I. INTRODUCTION 3 - - II. ALEXANDER HENRY--I 13 - - III. ALEXANDER HENRY--II 36 - - IV. JONATHAN CARVER 57 - - V. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE--I 84 - - VI. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE--II 102 - - VII. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE--III 121 - - VIII. LEWIS AND CLARK--I 138 - - IX. LEWIS AND CLARK--II 154 - - X. LEWIS AND CLARK--III 169 - - XI. LEWIS AND CLARK--IV 179 - - XII. LEWIS AND CLARK--V 190 - - XIII. ZEBULON M. PIKE--I 207 - - XIV. ZEBULON M. PIKE--II 226 - - XV. ZEBULON M. PIKE--III 238 - - XVI. ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)--I 253 - - XVII. ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)--II 271 - - XVIII. ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)--III 287 - - XIX. ROSS COX--I 301 - - XX. ROSS COX--II 319 - - XXI. THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES--I 330 - - XXII. THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES--II 341 - - XXIII. SAMUEL PARKER 359 - - XXIV. THOMAS J. FARNHAM--I 372 - - XXV. THOMAS J. FARNHAM--II 382 - - XXVI. FREMONT--I 393 - - XXVII. FREMONT--II 405 - - XXVIII. FREMONT--III 415 - - XXIX. FREMONT--IV 428 - - XXX. FREMONT--V 435 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK WERE MUCH PUZZLED AT THIS POINT TO - KNOW WHICH OF THE RIVERS BEFORE THEM WAS THE MAIN MISSOURI - _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - “I NOW RESIGNED MYSELF TO THE FATE WITH WHICH I WAS MENACED” 28 - - A MAN OF THE NAUDOWESSIE 62 - From _Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America_, - by Jonathan Carver - - A MAN OF THE OTTIGAUMIES 62 - From _Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America_, - by Jonathan Carver - - ALEXANDER MACKENZIE 84 - From Mackenzie’s _Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent - of North America_, etc. - - MACKENZIE AND THE MEN JUMPED OVERBOARD 118 - - LIEUTENANT ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, MONUMENT AT COLORADO SPRINGS, - COLORADO 208 - - BUFFALO ON THE SOUTHERN PLAINS 236 - From Kendall’s _Narrative of the Texas Santa Fé Expedition_ - - TWO MEN MOUNTED ON HER BACK, BUT SHE WAS AS ACTIVE WITH THIS LOAD - AS BEFORE 270 - - FUR TRADERS OF THE NORTH 280 - - ASTORIA IN 1813 302 - From Franchere’s _Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest - Coast of America_ - - CARAVAN ON THE MARCH 334 - From Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies_ - - WAGONS PARKED FOR THE NIGHT 340 - From Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies_ - - TRAPPERS ATTACKED BY INDIANS 360 - From an old print by A. Tait - - TRAIN STAMPEDED BY WILD HORSES 372 - From Bartlett’s _Texas, New Mexico, California_, etc. - - MAJOR-GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT 394 - - AN OTO COUNCIL 414 - From James’s _An Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky - Mountains by Major Stephen H. Long_. - - - MAP - PAGE - ROUTES OF SOME OF THE PATHFINDERS 2 - - - - -TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS - -[Illustration: ROUTES OF SOME OF THE PATHFINDERS] - - - - -TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS - - - - -CHAPTER I - -INTRODUCTION - - -Three centuries ago half a dozen tiny hamlets, peopled by white men, -were scattered along the western shores of the North Atlantic Ocean. -These little settlements owed allegiance to different nations of -Europe, each of which had thrust out a hand to grasp some share of the -wealth which might lie in the unknown wilderness which stretched away -from the seashore toward the west. - -The “Indies” had been discovered more than a hundred years before, but -though ships had sailed north and ships had sailed south, little was -known of the land, through which men were seeking a passage to share -the trade which the Portuguese, long before, had opened up with the -mysterious East. That passage had not been found. To the north lay ice -and snow, to the south--vaguely known--lay the South Sea. What that -South Sea was, what its limits, what its relations to lands already -visited, were still secrets. - -St. Augustine had been founded in 1565; and forty years later the -French made their first settlement at Port Royal in what is now Nova -Scotia. In 1607 Jamestown was settled; and a year later the French -established Quebec. The Pilgrims landed in Massachusetts in 1620 and -the first settlement of the Dutch on the island of Manhattan was in -1623. All these settlers establishing themselves in a new country -found enough to do in the struggle to procure subsistence, to protect -themselves from the elements and from the attacks of enemies, without -attempting to discover what lay inland--beyond the sound of the salt -waves which beat upon the coast. Not until later was any effort made to -learn what lay in the vast interior. - -Time went on. The settlements increased. Gradually men pushed farther -and farther inland. There were wars; and one nation after another was -crowded from its possessions, until, at length, the British owned all -the settlements in eastern temperate America. The white men still clung -chiefly to the sea-coast, and it was in western Pennsylvania that the -French and Indians defeated Braddock in 1755, George Washington being -an officer under his command. - -A little later came the war of the Revolution, and a new people sprang -into being in a land a little more than two hundred and fifty years -known. This people, teeming with energy, kept reaching out in all -directions for new things. As they increased in numbers they spread -chiefly in the direction of least resistance. The native tribes were -easier to displace than the French, who held forts to the north, and -the Spanish, who possessed territory to the south; and the temperate -climate toward the west attracted them more than the cold of the -north or the heat of the south. So the Americans pushed on always -to the setting sun, and their early movements gave truth to Bishop -Berkeley’s famous line, written long before and in an altogether -different connection, “Westward the course of empire takes its way.” -The Mississippi was reached, and little villages, occupied by Frenchmen -and their half-breed children, began to change, to be transformed into -American towns. Yet in 1790, ninety-five per cent. of the population of -the United States was on the Atlantic seaboard. - -Now came the Louisiana Purchase, and immediately after that the -expedition across the continent by Meriwether Lewis and William -Clark. The trip took two years’ time, and the reports brought back -by the intrepid explorers, telling the wonderful story of what lay -in the unknown beyond, greatly stimulated the imagination of the -western people. Long before this it had become known that the western -ocean--the South Sea of an earlier day--extended north along the -continent, and that there was no connection here with India. It was -known, too, that the Spaniards occupied the west coast. In 1790, -Umfreville said: “That there are European traders settled among the -Indians from the other side of the continent is without doubt. I, -myself, have seen horses with Roman capitals burnt in their flanks with -a hot iron. I likewise once saw a hanger with Spanish words engraved on -the blade. Many other proofs have been obtained to convince us that -the Spaniards on the opposite side of the continent make their inland -peregrinations as well as ourselves.” - -Western travel and exploration, within the United States, began -soon after the return of Lewis and Clark. The trapper, seeking for -peltry--the rich furs so much in demand in Europe--was the first to -penetrate the unknown wilds; but close upon his heels followed the -Indian trader, who used trapper and Indian alike to fill his purse. -With the trapper and the trader, naturalists began to push out into -the west, studying the fauna and flora of the new lands. About the -same time the possibilities of trade with the Mexicans induced the -beginnings of the Santa Fé trade, that Commerce of the Prairies which -has been so fully written of by the intrepid spirits who took part -in it. Meantime the government continued to send out expeditions, -poorly provided in many ways, scarcely armed, barely furnished with -provisions, without means of making their way through the unknown and -dangerous regions to which they were sent, but led by heroes. - -For forty years this work of investigation went on; for forty years -there took place a peopling of the new West by men who were in very -deed the bravest and most adventurous of our brave and hardy border -population. They scattered over the plains and through the mountains; -they trapped the beaver and fought the Indian and guided the explorers; -and took to themselves wives from among their very enemies, and raised -up broods of hardy offspring, some of whom we may yet meet as we -journey through the cattle and the farming country which used to be the -far West. - -If ever any set of men played their part in subduing the wilderness, -and in ploughing the ground to receive its seed of settlement, and to -rear the crop of civilization which is now being harvested, these men -did that work, and did it well. It is inconceivable that they should -have had the foresight to know what they were doing; to imagine what -it was that should come after them. They did not think of that. Like -the bold, brave, hardy men of all times and of all countries, they did -the work that lay before them, bravely, faithfully, and well, without -any special thought of a distant future; surely without any regrets for -the past. As the years rolled by, sickness, battle, the wild beast, -starvation, murder, death in some form, whether sudden or lingering, -struck them down singly or by scores; and that a man had been “rubbed -out,” was cause for a sigh of regret or a word of sorrow from his -companions, who forthwith saddled up and started on some journey of -peril, where their fate might be what his had been. - -At the end of forty years the first series of these exploratory -journeys came to an end. Gold was discovered in California. The Mexican -War took place. This was not unexpected, for in the Southwest, about -the pueblos of Taos and Santa Fé, skirmishings and quarrels between the -Spanish-Indian inhabitants and the rough mountaineers and teamsters -from the States had already given warning of a conflict soon to come. - -Now, well travelled wagon roads crossed the continent, and a stream of -westward immigration that seemed to have no end. Before long there came -Indian wars. The immigrants imposed upon the savages, ill-treated their -wives, and were truculent and over-bearing to their men. The Indians -stole from the immigrants, and drove off their horses. Then began a -season of conflict which, by one tribe and another, yet with many -intermissions, lasted almost down to our own day. For the most part, -these Indian wars are well within the memory of living men. They have -been told of by those who saw them and were a part of them. - -Of the travellers who marched westward over the arid plains, during the -period which intervened between the return of Lewis and Clark and the -establishment of the old California trail, and of the earlier northmen -who trafficked for the beaver in Canada, a few left records of their -journeys; and of these records many are most interesting reading, -for they are simple, faithful narratives of the every-day life of -travellers through unknown regions. To Americans they are of especial -interest, for they tell of a time when one-half of the continent which -now teems with population had no inhabitants. The acres which now -contribute freely of food that supplies the world; the mountains which -now echo to the rattle of machinery, and the shot of the blasts which -lay bare millions worth of precious metal; the waters which are churned -by propeller blades, transporting all the varied products of the land -to their markets; the forests, which, alas! in too many sections, no -longer rustle to the breeze, but have been swept away to make room for -farms and town sites--all these were then undisturbed and natural, as -they had been for a thousand years. Of the travellers who passed over -the vast stretches of prairie or mountain or woodland, many saw the -possibilities of this vast land, and prophesied as to what might be -wrought here, when, in the dim and distant future, which none could yet -foresee, settlements should have pushed out from the east and occupied -the land. Other travellers declared that these barren wastes would ever -prove a barrier to westward settlement. - -The books that were written concerning this new land are mostly long -out of print, or difficult of access; yet each one of them is worth -perusal. Of their authors, some bear names still familiar, even though -their works have been lost sight of. Some of them made discoveries of -great interest in one branch or other of science. At a later day some -attained fame. Parkman’s first essay in literature was his story of -_The California and Oregon Trail_, a fitting introduction to the many -fascinating volumes that he contributed later to the early history of -America; while in Washington Irving, historian and essayist, was found -a narrator who should first tell connectedly of the fur trade of the -Northwest, and the adventures of Bonneville. - -Besides the books that were published in those times, there were -also written accounts, usually in the form of diaries, or of notes -kept from day to day of the happenings in the life of this or that -individual, which are full of interest, because they give us pictures -of one or another phase of early travel, or hunting adventures, or of -trading with the Indians. Such private and personal accounts, never -intended for the public eye, are to-day of extreme interest; and it is -fortunate that an American student, the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has -given us volumes which tell the stories of Lewis and Clark, Pike and -Garces, of Jacob Fowler, of Alexander Henry the younger, and of Charles -Larpenteur--contributions to the history of the winning of the greater -West whose value is only now beginning to be appreciated. - -The chapters that follow contain much of history which is old, but -which, to the average American, will prove absolutely new. One may -imagine himself very much interested in the old West, familiar with -its history and devoted to its study, but it is not until he has gone -through volume after volume of this ancient literature that he realizes -how greatly his knowledge lacks precision and how much he still has to -learn concerning the country he inhabits. - -The work that the early travellers did, and the books they published, -showed to the people of their day the conditions which existed in the -far West, caused its settlement, and led to the slow discovery of its -mineral treasures, and the slower appreciation of its possibilities to -the farmer and stock-raiser. Each of these volumes had its readers, and -of the readers of each we may be sure that a few, or many, attracted by -the graphic descriptions of the new land, determined that they, too, -would push out into it; they, too, would share in the wealth which it -spread out with lavish hand. - -It is all so long ago that we who are busy with a thousand modern -interests care little about who contributed to the greatness of the -country which we inhabit and the prosperity which we enjoy. But there -was a day, which men alive may still remember, a day of strong men, of -brave women, hardy pioneers, and true hearts, who ventured forth into -the wilderness, braving many dangers that were real, and many more that -were imaginary and yet to them seemed very real, occupied the land, -broke up the virgin soil, and peopled a wilderness. - -How can the men and women of this generation--dwellers in cities, or -in peaceful villages, or on smiling farms--realize what those pioneers -did--how they lived? He must have possessed stern resolution and firm -courage, who, to better the condition of those dearest to him, risked -their comfort--their very lives--on the hazard of a settlement in the -unknown wilderness. The woman who accompanied this man bore an equal -part in the struggle, with devoted helpfulness encouraging him in -his strife with nature or cheering him in defeat. If the school of -self-reliance and hardihood in which their children were reared gave -them little of the lore of books, it built strong characters and made -them worthy successors of courageous parents. We may not comprehend how -long and fierce was the struggle with the elements, with the bristling -forest, with the unbroken soil; how hard and wearing the annoyance -of wild beasts, the anxiety as to climate, the fear of the prowling -savage. Yet the work was done, and to-day, from the Alleghanies to the -Pacific, we behold its results. - -Through hard experience these pioneers had come to understand life. -They possessed a due sense of proportion. They saw the things which -were essential; they scorned those which were trivial. If, judged -by certain standards, they were rough and uncouth, if they spoke a -strange tongue, wore odd apparel, and lived narrow lives, they were yet -practising--albeit unconsciously--the virtues--unflinching courage, -sturdy independence and helpfulness to their neighbors--which have made -America what it is. - -In the work of travel and exploration in that far West of which we used -to read, the figure which stands out boldest and most heroic of all is -unnamed. Bearded, buckskin-clad, with rough fur cap, or kerchief tied -about his head, wearing powder-horn and ball-pouch, and scalping-knife, -and carrying his trusty Hawkins rifle, the trapper--the _coureur des -bois_--was the man who did the first work in subduing the wild West, -the man who laid the foundations on which its present civilization is -built. - -All honor to this nameless hero. We shall meet him often as we follow -the westward trail. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -ALEXANDER HENRY - -I - - -The fur trade, which occupied many worthy men during the eighteenth and -first half of the nineteenth century, forms a romantic and interesting -part of the early history of our country. - -The traders, usually of English and American parentage, associated -themselves with the French voyageurs, or _coureurs des bois_, whom -Masson describes as “those heroes of the prairie and forest, regular -mixtures of good and evil, extravagant by nature, at the same time -grave and gay, cruel and compassionate; as credulous as superstitious, -and always irreligious.” Traders and voyageurs alike suffered every -privation, the cold of winter, the heat of summer, and finally, by -incredible persistence, beat out the path of discovery during all -seasons, until it became a well-worn trail; all to penetrate the great -unknown, which might contain everything that the trader desired. The -man who lived in those times and under those conditions was brave and -enduring without trying to be; he was alert and quick to act, and -unwearying in overcoming obstacles. Viewing him from the present day, -we might call him cruel and without feeling; but in those times men -were taught not to show their feelings. Their lives were given in great -part to surmounting enormous difficulties of travel in unknown regions, -and to establishing trade relations with unknown tribes of Indians, -who often times were not disposed to be friendly. The fur trader was -in constant danger, not only from hostile Indians, but often from -starvation. - -Alexander Henry was one of these fur traders. He came upon the scene -just at the close of the French régime. At twenty-one he had joined -Amherst’s army, not as a soldier, but in “a premature attempt to share -in the fur trade of Canada, directly on the conquest of the country.” -Wolfe’s victory at Quebec in the previous year had aroused the English -traders to the opportunity presented of taking over the fur trade which -the French had opened up, and Amherst’s large army was watched with -great interest as it swept away the last remnant of French control. -Henry was well fitted for the life that he intended to pursue, for he -seems to have had knowledge of the trading posts of Albany and New York. - -On the 3d day of August, 1761, Henry despatched his canoes from -Montreal to Lachine on an expedition to the regions west of the -Great Lakes. Little did he realize then that he should be gone from -civilization for sixteen years; that he should suffer and want but -survive; should see new and strange peoples, discover rivers and lakes, -build forts, to be used by others who were to follow him, trade with -the natives, and finally return to hear of the capture of Quebec by the -Americans, and then go to France to tell of his adventures. - -The route of the expedition was the usual one. Almost immediately -after leaving Lachine they came to the broad stretch of Lake Saint -Louis. At St. Anne’s the men used to go to confession, as the voyageurs -were almost all Catholics, and at the same time offered up their -vows; “for the saint from which this parish derives its name, and to -whom its church is dedicated, is the patroness of the Canadians in -all their travels by water.” “There is still a further custom to be -observed on arriving at Saint-Anne’s,” Henry relates, “which is that of -distributing eight gallons of rum to each canoe for consumption during -the voyage; nor is it less according to custom to drink the whole of -this liquor upon the spot. The saint, therefore, and the priest were -no sooner dismissed than a scene of intoxication began in which my men -surpassed, if possible, the drunken Indian in singing, fighting, and -the display of savage gesture and conceit.” - -Continuing up the river, and carrying over many portages, they at last -reached the Ottawa, and soon ascended the Mattawa. Hitherto the French -were the only white men that had been known in this region. Their -relations with the Indians were friendly, and the Indians were well -aware of the enmity existing between the French and the English. In -the Lac des Chats Henry met several canoes of Indians returning from -their winter hunt. They recognized him as an Englishman, and cautioned -him, declaring that the upper Indians would kill him when they saw him, -and said that the Englishmen were crazy to go so far after beaver. The -expedition came at last to Lake Huron, which “lay stretched across -our horizon like an ocean.” It was, perhaps, the largest water Henry -had yet seen, and the prospect was alarming, but the canoes rode with -the ease of a sea-bird, and his fears subsided. Coming to the island -called La Cloche, because “there is here a rock standing on a plain, -which, being struck, rings like a bell,” he found Indians, with whom -he traded, and to whom he gave some rum, and who, recognizing him as -an Englishman, told his men that the Indians at Michilimackinac would -certainly kill him. On the advice of his friend Campion, Henry changed -his garb, assuming the dress usually worn by the Canadians, and, -smearing his face with dirt and grease, believed himself thoroughly -disguised. - -Passing the mouth of the river Missisaki, he found the Indians -inhabiting the north side of Lake Superior cultivating corn in small -quantities. - -As he went on, the lake before him to the westward seemed to become -less and less broad, and at last he could see the high back of the -island of Michilimackinac, commonly interpreted to mean the great -turtle. He found here a large village of Chippewas, and leaving as soon -as possible, pushed on about two leagues farther to the fort, where -there was a stockade of thirty houses and a church. - -For years now Fort Michilimackinac had been a scene of great -activity. Established by Father Marquette, and kept up by succeeding -missionaries, the first men to brave the unknown terrors of the -interior, it was from here in 1731 that the brave and adventurous -Verendryes set out on their long journey to the Forks of the -Saskatchewan, and to the Missouri River. - -This was the half-way house for all the westward pushing and eastward -coming traders, and a meeting place for all the tribes living on the -Great Lakes. Here were fur traders, trappers, voyageurs, and Indians, -hurrying to and fro, dressed in motley and picturesque attire. Some -were bringing in furs from long and perilous journeys from the west, -while others were on the eve of departure westward, and others still -were leaving for Montreal. The scene must have been gay and active -almost beyond our powers to imagine. Henry was in the midst of all this -when the word came to him that a band of Chippewas wished to speak with -him; and, however unwillingly, he was obliged to meet them, sixty in -number, headed by Minavavana, their chief. “They walked in single file, -each with a tomahawk in one hand and scalping-knife in the other. Their -bodies were naked from the waist upward, except in a few examples, -where blankets were thrown loosely over the shoulders.” Their faces -were painted with charcoal, their bodies with white clay, and feathers -were tied in the heads of some, and thrust through the noses of others. -Before the opening of the council, the chief held a conference with -Campion, asking how long it was since Henry had left Montreal, and -observing that the English must be brave men and not afraid of death, -since they thus ventured to come fearlessly among their enemies. After -the pipe had been smoked, while Henry “inwardly endured the tortures of -suspense,” the chief addressed him, saying: - -“Englishman, our father, the King of France, employed our young men -to make war upon your nation. In this warfare many of them have been -killed; and it is our custom to retaliate, until such time as the -spirits of the slain are satisfied. But the spirits of the slain are -to be satisfied in either of two ways: the first is by the spilling of -the blood of the nation by which they fell; the other, by _covering -the bodies of the dead_, and thus allaying the resentment of their -relations. This is done by making presents. - -“Englishman, your King has never sent us any presents, nor entered -into any treaty with us, wherefore he and we are still at war; and, -until he does these things, we must consider that we have no other -father nor friend among the white men than the King of France; but, -for you, we have taken into consideration that you have ventured your -life among us, in the expectation that we should not molest you. You -do not come armed, with an intention to make war; you come in peace, -to trade with us, and supply us with necessaries, of which we are in -much want. We shall regard you, therefore, as a brother, and you may -sleep tranquilly, without fear of the Chippewas. As a token of our -friendship, we present you with this pipe to smoke.” - -In reply, Henry told them that their late father, the King of France, -had surrendered Canada to the King of England, whom they should now -regard as their father, and that he, Henry, had come to furnish them -with what they needed. Things were thus very satisfactory, and when the -Chippewas went away they were given a small quantity of rum. - -Henry was now busily at work assorting his goods, preparatory to -starting on his expedition, when two hundred Ottawas entered the fort -and demanded speech with him. They insisted that he should give credit -to every one of their young men to the amount of fifty beaver skins, -but as this demand would have stripped him of all his merchandise, he -refused to comply with the request. What the Ottawas might have done -is uncertain. They did nothing, because that very day word was brought -that a detachment of English soldiers, sent to garrison the fort, was -distant only five miles, and would be there the next day. At daybreak -the Ottawas were seen preparing to depart, and by sunrise not one of -them was left in the fort. - -Although it was now the middle of September, the traders sent off -their canoes on the different trading expeditions. These canoes were -victualled largely with Indian corn at the neighboring village of -L’Arbre Croche, occupied by the Ottawas. This corn was prepared for use -by boiling it in a strong lye which removed the husk, after which it -was pounded and dried, making a meal. “The allowance for each man on -the voyage is a quart a day, and a bushel, with two pounds of prepared -fat, is reckoned to be a month’s subsistence. No other allowance is -made of any kind, not even of salt, and bread is never thought of. The -men, nevertheless, are healthy, and capable of performing their heavy -labor. This mode of victualling is essential to the trade, which, being -pursued at great distances, and in vessels so small as canoes, will -not admit of the use of other food. If the men were to be supplied -with bread and pork, the canoes could not carry a sufficiency for -six months; and the ordinary duration of the voyage is not less than -fourteen.” - -The food of the garrison consisted largely of small game, partridges -and hares, and of fish, especially trout, whitefish, and sturgeon. -Trout were caught with set lines and bait, and whitefish with nets -under the ice. Should this fishery fail, it was necessary to purchase -grain, which, however, was very expensive, costing forty livres, or -forty shillings, Canadian currency; though there was no money in -Michilimackinac, and the circulating medium consisted solely of furs. -A pound of beaver was worth about sixty cents, an otter skin six -shillings Canadian, and marten skins about thirty cents each. - -Having wintered at Michilimackinac, Henry set out in May for the Sault -de Sainte-Marie. Here there was a stockaded fort, with four houses, -one of which was occupied by Monsieur Cadotte, the interpreter, and -his Chippewa wife. The Indians had an important whitefish fishery -at the rapids, taking the fish in dip nets. In the autumn Henry and -the other whites did much fishing; and in the winter they hunted, -and took large trout with the spear through the ice in this way: “In -order to spear trout under the ice, holes being first cut of two yards -in circumference, cabins of about two feet in height are built over -them of small branches of trees; and these are further covered with -skins so as to wholly exclude the light. The design and result of this -contrivance is to render it practicable to discern objects in the water -at a very considerable depth; for the reflection of light from the -water gives that element an opaque appearance, and hides all objects -from the eye at a small distance beneath its surface. A spear head of -iron is fastened on a pole of about ten feet in length. This instrument -is lowered into the water, and the fisherman, lying upon his belly, -with his head under the cabin or cover, and therefore over the hole, -lets down the figure of a fish in wood and filled with lead. Round the -middle of the fish is tied a small pack thread, and, when at the depth -of ten fathoms, where it is intended to be employed, it is made, by -drawing the string and by the simultaneous pressure of the water, to -move forward, after the manner of a real fish. Trout and other large -fish, deceived by its resemblance, spring toward it to seize it, but, -by a dexterous jerk of the string, it is instantly taken out of their -reach. The decoy is now drawn nearer to the surface, and the fish takes -some time to renew the attack, during which the spear is raised and -held conveniently for striking. On the return of the fish, the spear is -plunged into its back, and, the spear being barbed, it is easily drawn -out of the water. So completely do the rays of the light pervade the -element that in three-fathom water I have often seen the shadows of the -fish on the bottom, following them as they moved; and this when the ice -itself was two feet in thickness.” - -The burning of the post at the Sault forced all hands to return next -winter to Michilimackinac, where the early spring was devoted to -the manufacture of maple sugar, an important article of diet in the -northern country. - -That spring Indians gathered about the fort in such large numbers as -to make Henry fearful that something unusual lay behind the concourse. -He spoke about it to the commanding officer, who laughed at him for -his timidity. The Indians seemed to be passing to and fro in the most -friendly manner, selling their fur and attending to their business -altogether in a natural way. - -About a year before an Indian named Wawatam had come into Henry’s -house, expressed a strong liking for him, and, having explained that -years before, after a fast, he had dreamed of adopting an Englishman -as his son, brother, and friend, told Henry that in him he recognized -the person whom the Great Spirit had pointed out to him for a brother, -and that he hoped Henry would become one of his family, and at the -same time he made him a large present. Henry accepted these friendly -overtures, and made a handsome present in return, and the two parted -for the time. - -Henry had almost forgotten his brother, when, on the second day of -June, twelve months later, Wawatam again came to his house and -expressed great regret that Henry had returned from the Sault. Wawatam -stated that he intended to go there at once, and begged Henry to -accompany him. He asked, also, whether the commandant had heard bad -news, saying that during the winter he himself had been much disturbed -by the noises of evil birds, and that there were many Indians around -the fort who had never shown themselves within it. Both the chief and -his wife strove earnestly to persuade Henry to accompany them at once, -but he paid little attention to their requests, and they finally took -their departure, very much depressed--in fact, even weeping. The next -day Henry received from a Chippewa an invitation to come out and see -the great game of baggatiway, or lacrosse, which his people were going -to play that day with the Sacs. But as a canoe was about to start -for Montreal, Henry was busy writing letters, and although urged by -a friend to go out and meet another canoe just arrived from Detroit, -he nevertheless remained in his room, writing. Suddenly he heard the -Indian war-cry, and, looking out of the window, saw a crowd of Indians -within the fort furiously cutting down and scalping every Englishman -they found. He noticed, too, many of the Canadian inhabitants of -the fort quietly looking on, neither trying to stop the Indians nor -suffering injury from them; and from the fact that these people were -not being attacked, he conceived the hope of finding security in one of -their houses. This is as he tells it: - -“Between the yard-door of my own house and that of M. Langlade, my -next neighbor, there was only a low fence, over which I easily climbed. -At my entrance I found the whole family at the windows, gazing at -the scene of blood before them. I addressed myself immediately to M. -Langlade, begging that he would put me into some place of safety until -the heat of the affair should be over, an act of charity by which he -might perhaps preserve me from the general massacre; but, while I -uttered my petition, M. Langlade, who had looked for a moment at me, -turned again to the window, shrugging his shoulders and intimating that -he could do nothing for me--‘_Que voudriez-vous que j’en ferais?_’ - -“This was a moment for despair; but the next a Pani woman, a slave of -M. Langlade’s, beckoned to me to follow her. She brought me to a door, -which she opened, desiring me to enter, and telling me that it led to -the garret, where I must go and conceal myself. I joyfully obeyed her -directions and she, having followed me up to the garret door, locked it -after me, and with great presence of mind took away the key. - -“This shelter obtained, if shelter I could hope to find it, I was -naturally anxious to know what might still be passing without. Through -an aperture which afforded me a view of the area of the fort, I beheld, -in shapes the foulest and most terrible, the ferocious triumphs of -barbarian conquerors. The dead were scalped and mangled; the dying -were writhing and shrieking under the unsatiated knife and tomahawk, -and, from the bodies of some ripped open, their butchers were drinking -the blood, scooped up in the hollow of joined hands and quaffed amid -shouts of rage and victory. I was shaken, not only with horror, but -with fear. The sufferings which I witnessed, I seemed on the point of -experiencing. No long time elapsed before every one being destroyed who -could be found, there was a general cry of ‘All is finished!’ At the -same instant I heard some of the Indians enter the house in which I was. - -“The garret was separated from the room below only by a layer of single -boards, at once the flooring of the one and the ceiling of the other. -I could therefore hear everything that passed; and, the Indians no -sooner in than they inquired whether or not any Englishmen were in the -house? M. Langlade replied that ‘He could not say--he did not know of -any’--answers in which he did not exceed the truth, for the Pani woman -had not only hidden me by stealth, but had kept my secret and her own; -M. Langlade was therefore, as I presume, as far from a wish to destroy -me as he was careless about saving me, when he added to these answers -that ‘They might examine for themselves, and would soon be satisfied as -to the object of their question.’ Saying this, he brought them to the -garret door. - -“The state of my mind will be imagined. Arrived at the door, some delay -was occasioned by the absence of the key, and a few moments were thus -allowed me in which to look around for a hiding place. In one corner -of the garret was a heap of vessels of birch-bark, used in maple-sugar -making. - -“The door was unlocked, and opening, and the Indians ascending the -stairs, before I had completely crept into a small opening which -presented itself at one end of the heap. An instant after four Indians -entered the room, all armed with tomahawks, and all besmeared with -blood upon every part of their bodies. - -“The die appeared to be cast. I could scarcely breathe: but I thought -that the throbbing of my heart occasioned a noise loud enough to -betray me. The Indians walked in every direction about the garret, -and one of them approached me so closely that at a particular moment, -had he put forth his hand, he must have touched me. Still, I remained -undiscovered, a circumstance to which the dark color of my clothes and -the want of light, in a room which had no window, and in the corner in -which I was, must have contributed. In a word, after taking several -turns in the room, during which they told M. Langlade how many they had -killed and how many scalps they had taken, they returned down-stairs, -and I with sensations not to be expressed heard the door, which was the -barrier between me and fate, locked for the second time. - -“There was a feather bed on the floor, and on this, exhausted as I was -by the agitation of my mind, I threw myself down and fell asleep. In -this state I remained till the dusk of the evening, when I was awakened -by a second opening of the door. The person that now entered was M. -Langlade’s wife, who was much surprised at finding me, but advised me -not to be uneasy, observing that the Indians had killed most of the -English, but that she hoped I might myself escape. A shower of rain -having begun to fall, she had come to stop a hole in the roof. On her -going away, I begged her to send me a little water to drink, which she -did. - -“As night was now advancing, I continued to lie on the bed, ruminating -on my condition but unable to discover a resource from which I could -hope for life. A flight to Detroit had no probable chance of success. -The distance from Michilimackinac was four hundred miles; I was without -provisions, and the whole length of the road lay through Indian -countries, countries of an enemy in arms, where the first man whom I -should meet would kill me. To stay where I was threatened nearly the -same issue. As before, fatigue of mind and not tranquillity, suspended -my cares and procured me further sleep.... - -“The respite which sleep afforded me during the night was put an end -to by the return of morning. I was again on the rack of apprehension. -At sunrise I heard the family stirring, and, presently after, Indian -voices, informing M. Langlade that they had not found my hapless -self among the dead, and that they supposed me to be somewhere -concealed. M. Langlade appeared, from what followed, to be by this -time acquainted with the place of my retreat, of which, no doubt, he -had been informed by his wife. The poor woman, as soon as the Indians -mentioned me, declared to her husband, in the French tongue, that -he should no longer keep me in his house, but deliver me up to my -pursuers; giving as a reason for this measure that should the Indians -discover his instrumentality in my concealment they might revenge it -on her children, and that it was better that I should die than they. -M. Langlade resisted at first this sentence of his wife’s; but soon -suffered her to prevail, informing the Indians that he had been told I -was in his house; that I had come there without his knowledge, and that -he would put me into their hands. This was no sooner expressed than he -began to ascend the stairs, the Indians following upon his heels. - -“I now resigned myself to the fate with which I was menaced; and -regarding every attempt at concealment as vain, I arose from the bed -and presented myself full in view to the Indians who were entering the -room. They were all in a state of intoxication, and entirely naked, -except about the middle. One of them, named Wenniway, whom I had -previously known and who was upward of six feet in height, had his -entire face and body covered with charcoal and grease, only that a -white spot of two inches in diameter encircled either eye. This man, -walking up to me, seized me with one hand by the collar of the coat, -while in the other he held a large carving knife, as if to plunge it -into my breast; his eyes, meanwhile, were fixed steadfastly on mine. -At length, after some seconds of the most anxious suspense he dropped -his arm, saying, ‘I won’t kill you!’ To this he added that he had been -frequently engaged in wars against the English, and had brought away -many scalps; that, on a certain occasion, he had lost a brother, whose -name was Musingon, and that I should be called after him.” - -[Illustration: “I NOW RESIGNED MYSELF TO THE FATE WITH WHICH I WAS -MENACED.”] - -Several times within the next two or three days Henry had narrow -escapes from death at the hands of drunken Indians; but finally his -captors, having stripped him of all his clothing save an old shirt, -took him, with other prisoners, and set out for the Isles du Castor, in -Lake Michigan. - -At the village of L’Arbre Croche, the Ottawas forcibly took away their -prisoners from the Chippewas, but the Chippewas made violent complaint, -while the Ottawas explained to the prisoners that they had taken -them from the Chippewas to save their lives, it being the practice -of the Chippewas to eat their enemies, in order to give them courage -in battle. A council was held between the Chippewas and Ottawas, the -result of which was that the prisoners were handed over to their -original captors. But before they had left this place, while Henry was -sitting in the lodge with his captor, his friend and brother, Wawatam, -suddenly entered. As he passed Henry he shook hands with him, but went -toward the great chief, by whom he sat down, and after smoking, rose -again and left the lodge, saying to Henry as he passed him, “Take -courage.” - -A little later, Wawatam and his wife entered the lodge, bringing large -presents, which they threw down before the chiefs. Wawatam explained -that Henry was his brother, and therefore a relative to the whole -tribe, and asked that he be turned over to him, which was done. - -Henry now went with Wawatam to his lodge, and thereafter lived with -him. The Indians were very much afraid that the English would send -to revenge the killing of their troops, and they shortly moved to -the Island of Michilimackinac. A little later a brigade of canoes, -containing goods and abundant liquor, was captured: and Wawatam, -fearing the results of the drink on the Indians, took Henry away and -concealed him in a cave, where he remained for two days. - -The head chief of the village of Michilimackinac now recommended to -Wawatam and Henry that, on account of the frequent arrival of Indians -from Montreal, some of whom had lost relatives or friends in the war, -Henry should be dressed like an Indian, and the wisdom of this advice -was recognized. His hair was cut off, his head shaved, except for a -scalp-lock, his face painted, and Indian clothing given him. Wawatam -helped him to visit Michilimackinac, where Henry found one of his -clerks, but none of his property. Soon after this they moved away to -Wawatam’s wintering ground, which Henry was very willing to visit, -because in the main camp he was constantly subjected to insults from -the Indians who knew of his race. - -Henry writes fully of the customs of the Indians, of the habits of many -of the animals which they pursued, and of the life he led. He says -that during this winter “Raccoon hunting was my more particular and -daily employ. I usually went out at the first dawn of day, and seldom -returned till sunset, or till I had laden myself with as many animals -as I could carry. By degrees I became familiarized with this kind of -life; and had it not been for the idea, of which I could not divest -my mind, that I was living among savages, and for the whispers of a -lingering hope that I should one day be released from it, or if I could -have forgotten that I had ever been otherwise than as I then was, I -could have enjoyed as much happiness in this as in any other situation.” - -Among the interesting hunting occurrences narrated is one of the -killing of a bear, and of the ceremonies subsequent to this killing -performed by the Indians. He says: - -“In the course of the month of January I happened to observe that the -trunk of a very large pine tree was much torn by the claws of a bear, -made both in going up and down. On further examination, I saw that -there was a large opening in the upper part, near which the smaller -branches were broken. From these marks, and from the additional -circumstance that there were no tracks in the snow, there was reason to -believe that a bear lay concealed in the tree. - -“On returning to the lodge, I communicated my discovery, and it was -agreed that all the family should go together in the morning to assist -in cutting down the tree, the girth of which was not less than three -fathom. Accordingly, in the morning we surrounded the tree, both men -and women, as many at a time as could conveniently work at it, and here -we toiled like beaver till the sun went down. This day’s work carried -us about half way through the trunk; and the next morning we renewed -the attack, continuing it till about two o’clock in the afternoon, when -the tree fell to the ground. For a few minutes everything remained -quiet, and I feared that all our expectations were disappointed; but, -as I advanced to the opening, there came out, to the great satisfaction -of all our party, a bear of extraordinary size, which, before she had -proceeded many yards, I shot. - -“The bear being dead, all my assistants approached, and all, but more -particularly my old mother (as I was wont to call her), took her head -in their hands, stroking and kissing it several times, begging a -thousand pardons for taking away her life; calling her their relation -and grandmother, and requesting her not to lay the fault upon them, -since it was truly an Englishman that had put her to death. - -“This ceremony was not of long duration, and if it was I that killed -their grandmother, they were not themselves behindhand in what remained -to be performed. The skin being taken off, we found the fat in several -places six inches deep. This, being divided into two parts, loaded two -persons, and the flesh parts were as much as four persons could carry. -In all, the carcass must have exceeded five hundredweight. - -“As soon as we reached the lodge, the bear’s head was adorned with all -the trinkets in the possession of the family, such as silver arm-bands -and wrist-bands, and belts of wampum, and then laid upon a scaffold set -up for its reception within the lodge. Near the nose was placed a large -quantity of tobacco. - -“The next morning no sooner appeared than preparations were made for -a feast to the manes. The lodge was cleaned and swept, and the head -of the bear lifted up and a new stroud blanket, which had never been -used before, spread under it. The pipes were now lit, and Wawatam blew -tobacco smoke into the nostrils of the bear, telling me to do the -same, and thus appease the anger of the bear on account of my having -killed her. I endeavored to persuade my benefactor and friendly adviser -that she no longer had any life, and assured him that I was under no -apprehension from her displeasure; but the first proposition obtained -no credit, and the second gave but little satisfaction. - -“At length, the feast being ready, Wawatam commenced a speech, -resembling, in many things, his address to the manes of his relations -and departed companions, but having this peculiarity, that he here -deplored the necessity under which men labored thus to destroy their -friends. He represented, however, that the misfortune was unavoidable, -since without doing so they could by no means subsist. The speech -ended, we all ate heartily of the bear’s flesh, and even the head -itself, after remaining three days on the scaffold, was put into the -kettle. - -“It is only the female bear that makes her winter lodging in the upper -parts of trees, a practice by which her young are secured from the -attacks of wolves and other animals. She brings forth in the winter -season, and remains in her lodge till the cubs have gained some -strength. - -“The male always lodges in the ground, under the roots of trees. He -takes to this habitation as soon as the snow falls, and remains there -till it has disappeared. The Indians remark that the bear comes out in -the spring with the same fat which he carried in in the autumn; but, -after exercise of only a few days, becomes lean. Excepting for a short -part of the season, the male lives constantly alone. - -“The fat of our bear was melted down, and the oil filled six porcupine -skins. A part of the meat was cut into strips and fire-dried, after -which it was put into the vessels containing the oil, where it remained -in perfect preservation until the middle of summer.” - -When spring came, and they returned to the more travelled routes and -met other Indians, it was seen that these people were all anxious lest -the English should this summer avenge the outbreak of the Indians of -the previous year. Henry was exceedingly anxious to escape from his -present life, and his brother was willing that he should go, but this -appeared difficult. At last, however, a Canadian canoe, carrying Madame -Cadotte, came along, and this good woman was willing to assist Henry so -far as she could. He and his brother parted rather sadly, and Henry, -now under the guise of a Canadian, took a paddle in Madame Cadotte’s -canoe. She took him safely to the Sault, where he was welcomed by -Monsieur Cadotte, whose great influence among the Indians was easily -sufficient to protect him. Soon after this there came an embassy -from Sir William Johnson, calling the Indians to come to Niagara and -make peace with the English; and after consulting the Great Turtle, -who was the guardian spirit of the Chippewas, a number of young men -volunteered to go to Niagara, and among them Henry. - -After a long voyage they reached Niagara, where Henry was very kindly -received by Sir William Johnson and subsequently was appointed by -General Bradstreet, commander of an Indian battalion of ninety-six men, -among whom were many of the Indians who, not long before, had been -ready and eager to kill him. With this command he moved westward, and -after peace had been made with Pontiac at Detroit, with a detachment -of troops reached Michilimackinac, where he recovered a part of his -property. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -ALEXANDER HENRY - -II - - -The French Government had established regulations governing the fur -trade in Canada, and in 1765, when Henry made his second expedition, -some features of the old system were still preserved. No person was -permitted to enter the countries lying north-west of Detroit unless -furnished with a license, and military commanders had the privilege of -granting to any individual the exclusive trade of particular districts. - -At this time beaver were worth two shillings and sixpence per pound; -otter skins, six shillings each; martens, one shilling and sixpence; -all this in nominal Michilimackinac currency, although here fur was -still the current coin. Henry loaded his four canoes with the value -of ten thousand pounds’ weight of good and merchantable beaver. For -provision he purchased fifty bushels of corn, at ten pounds of beaver -per bushel. He took into partnership Monsieur Cadotte, and leaving -Michilimackinac July 14, and Sault Sainte-Marie the 26th, he proceeded -to his wintering ground at Chagouemig. On the 19th of August he reached -the river Ontonagan, notable for its abundance of native copper, -which the Indians used to manufacture into spoons and bracelets for -themselves. This they did by the mere process of hammering it out. -Not far beyond this river he met Indians, to whom he gave credit. -“The prices were for a stroud blanket, ten beaver skins; for a white -blanket, eight; a pound of powder, two; a pound of shot or of ball, -one; a gun, twenty; an axe of one pound weight, two; a knife, one.” As -the value of a skin was about one dollar, the prices to the Indians -were fairly high. - -Chagouemig, where Henry wintered, is now known as Chequamegon. It is in -Wisconsin, a bay which partly divides Bayfield from Ashland county, and -seems always to have been a great gathering place for Indians. There -were now about fifty lodges here, making, with those who had followed -Henry, about one hundred families. All were poor, their trade having -been interfered with by the English invasion of Canada and by Pontiac’s -war. Henry was obliged to distribute goods to them to the amount of -three thousand beaver skins, and this done, the Indians separated to -look for fur. Henry sent a clerk to Fond du Lac with two loaded canoes; -Fond du Lac being, roughly, the site of the present city of Duluth. -As soon as Henry was fairly settled, he built a house, and began to -collect fish from the lake as food for the winter. Before long he had -two thousand trout and whitefish, the former frequently weighing fifty -pounds each, the latter from four to six. They were preserved by -being hung up by the tail and did not thaw during the winter. When the -bay froze over, Henry amused himself by spearing trout, and sometimes -caught a hundred in a day, each weighing on an average twenty pounds. - -He had some difficulty with the first hunting party which brought furs. -The men crowded into his house and demanded rum, and when he refused -it, they threatened to take all he had. His men were frightened and all -abandoned him. He got hold of a gun, however, and on threatening to -shoot the first who should lay hands on anything, the disturbance began -to subside and was presently at an end. He now buried the liquor that -he had, and when the Indians were finally persuaded that he had none to -give them, they went and came very peaceably, paying their debts and -purchasing goods. - -The ice broke up in April, and by the middle of May the Indians began -to come in with their furs, so that by the close of the spring Henry -found himself with a hundred and fifty packs of beaver, weighing a -hundred pounds each, besides twenty-five packs of otter and marten -skins. These he took to Michilimackinac, accompanied by fifty canoes -of Indians, who still had a hundred packs of beaver that they did not -sell. It appears, therefore, that Henry’s ten thousand pounds of beaver -brought him fifty per cent. profit in beaver, besides the otter and the -marten skins which he had. - -On his way back he went up the Ontonagan River to see the celebrated -mass of copper there, which he estimated to weigh no less than five -tons. So pure was it that with an axe he chopped off a piece weighing -a hundred pounds. This great mass of copper, which had been worked at -for no one knows how long by Indians and by early explorers, lay there -for eighty years after Henry saw it; and finally, in 1843, was removed -to the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. It was then estimated to -weigh between three and four tons, and the cost of transporting it to -the national capital was about $3,500. - -The following winter was passed at Sault Sainte-Marie, and was rather -an unhappy one, as the fishery failed, and there was great suffering -from hunger. Canadians and Indians gathered there from the surrounding -country, driven in by lack of food. Among the incidents of the winter -was the arrival of a young man who had been guilty of cannibalism. He -was killed by the Indians, not so much as punishment, as from the fear -that he would kill and eat some of their children. - -A journey to a neighboring bay resulted in no great catch of fish, and -returning to the Sault, Henry started for Michilimackinac. At the first -encampment, an hour’s fishing procured them seven trout, of from ten to -twenty pounds’ weight. A little later they met a camp of Indians who -had fish, and shared with them; and the following day Henry killed a -caribou, by which they camped and on which they subsisted for two days. - -The following winter Henry stopped at Michipicoten, on the north side -of Lake Superior, and about a hundred and fifty miles from the Sault. -Here there were a few people known as _Gens des Terres_, a tribe of -Algonquins, living in middle Canada, and ranging from the Athabasca -country east to Lake Temiscamingue. A few of them still live near the -St. Maurice River, in the Province of Quebec. These people, though -miserably poor, and occupying a country containing very few animals, -had a high reputation for honesty and worth. Therefore, Henry gave -to every man credit for one hundred beaver skins, and to every woman -thirty--a very large credit. - -There was some game in this country, a few caribou, and some hares and -partridges. The hills were well wooded with sugar-maples, and from -these, when spring came, Henry made sugar; and for a time this was -their sole provision, each man consuming a pound a day, desiring no -other food, and being visibly nourished by the sugar. Soon after this, -wildfowl appeared in such abundance that subsistence for fifty could -without difficulty be shot daily by one man, but this lasted only for -a week, by which time the birds all departed. By the end of May all to -whom Henry had advanced goods returned, and of the two thousand skins -for which he had given them credit, not thirty remained unpaid. The -small loss that he did suffer was occasioned by the death of one of the -Indians, whose family brought all the skins of which he died possessed, -and offered to contribute among themselves the balance. - -The following winter was also to be passed at Michipicoten, and in the -month of October, after all the Indians had received their goods and -had gone away, Henry set out for the Sault on a visit. He took little -provision, only a quart of corn for each person. - -On the first night they camped on an island sacred to Nanibojou, one -of the Chippewa gods, and failed to offer the tobacco which an Indian -would always have presented to the spirit. In the night a violent storm -arose which continued for three days. When it abated on the third day -they went to examine the net which they had set for fish, and found it -gone. The wind was ahead to return to Michipicoten, and they steered -for the Sault; but that night the wind shifted and blew a gale for nine -days following. They soon began to starve, and though Henry hunted -faithfully, he killed nothing more than two snowbirds. One of his men -informed him that the other two had proposed to kill and eat a young -woman, whom they were taking to the Sault, and when taxed with the -proposition, these two men had the hardihood to acknowledge it. The -next morning, Henry, still searching for food, found on a rock the -_tripe de roche_, a lichen, which, when cooked, yields a jelly which -will support life. The discovery of this food, on which they supported -themselves thereafter, undoubtedly saved the life of the poor woman. -When they embarked on the evening of the ninth day they were weak -and miserable; but, luckily, the next morning, meeting two canoes of -Indians, they received a gift of fish, and at once landed to feast on -them. - -In the spring of 1769, and for some years afterward, Henry turned his -attention more or less to mines. He visited the Ile de Maurepas, -said to contain shining rocks and stones of rare description, but was -much disappointed in the island, which seemed commonplace enough. A -year later Mr. Baxter, with whom Henry had formed a partnership for -copper mining, returned, and during the following winter, at Sault -Sainte-Marie, they built vessels for navigating the lakes. Henry -had heard of an island (Caribou Island) in Lake Superior described -as covered with a heavy yellow sand like gold-dust, and guarded by -enormous snakes. With Mr. Baxter he searched for this island and -finally found it, but neither yellow sands nor snakes nor gold. Hawks -there were in abundance, and one of them picked Henry’s cap from his -head. There were also caribou, and they killed thirteen, and found many -complete and undisturbed skeletons. Continuing their investigations -into the mines about the lakes, they found abundant copper ore, and -some supposed to contain silver. But their final conclusion was that -the cost of carrying the copper ore to Montreal must exceed its -marketable value. - -In June, 1775, Henry left Sault Sainte-Marie with four large canoes -and twelve small ones, carrying goods and provisions to the value of -three thousand pounds sterling. He passed west, over the Grand Portage, -entered Lac à la Pluie, passed down to the Lake of the Woods, and -finally reached Lake Winipegon. Here there were Crees, variously known -as Christinaux, Kinistineaux, Killistinoes, and Killistinaux. Lake -Winipegon is sometimes called the Lake of the Crees. These people were -primitive. Almost entirely naked, the whole body was painted with red -ochre; the head was wholly shaved, or the hair was plucked out, except -a spot on the crown, where it grew long and was rolled and gathered -into a tuft; the ears were pierced, and filled with bones of fishes -and land animals. The women, on the other hand, had long hair, which -was gathered into a roll on either side of the head above the ear, and -was covered with a piece of skin, painted or ornamented with beads of -various colors. The traditions of the Cheyennes of to-day point back -to precisely similar methods of dressing the hair of the women and of -painting the men. - -The Crees were friendly, and gave the traveller presents of wild -rice and dried meat. He kept on along the lake and soon joined Peter -Pond, a well-known trader of early days. A little later, in early -September, the two Frobishers and Mr. Patterson overtook them. On the -1st of October they reached the River de Bourbon, now known as the -Saskatchewan, and proceeded up it, using the tow-line to overcome the -Great Rapids. They passed on into Lake de Bourbon, now Cedar Lake, and -by old Fort Bourbon, built by the Sieur de Vérendrye. At the mouth of -the Pasquayah River they found a village of Swampy Crees, the chief of -whom expressed his gratification at their coming, but remarked that, -as it would be possible for him to kill them all when they returned, -he expected them to be extremely liberal with their presents. He -then specified what it was that he desired, namely, three casks of -gunpowder, four bags of shot and ball, two bales of tobacco, three -kegs of rum, and three guns, together with many smaller articles. -Finally he declared that he was a peaceable man, and always tried to -get along without quarrels. The traders were obliged to submit to -being thus robbed, and passed on up the river to Cumberland House. -Here they separated, M. Cadotte going on with four canoes to the Fort -des Prairies, a name given then and later to many of the trading posts -built on the prairie. This one is probably that Fort des Prairies which -was situated just below the junction of the north and south forks of -the Saskatchewan River, and was known as Fort Nippewen. Mr. Pond, with -two canoes, went to Fort Dauphin, on Lake Dauphin, while the Messrs. -Frobisher and Henry agreed to winter together on Beaver Lake. Here they -found a good place for a post, and were soon well lodged. Fish were -abundant, and the post soon assumed the appearance of a settlement. -Owing to the lateness of the season, their canoes could not be buried -in the ground, as was the common practice, and they were therefore -placed on scaffolds. The fishing here was very successful, and moose -were killed. The Indians brought in beaver and bear’s meat, and some -skins for sale. - -In January, 1776, Henry left the fort on Beaver Lake, attended by two -men, and provided with dried meat, frozen fish, and cornmeal, to make -an excursion over the plains, “or, as the French denominate them, the -Prairies, or Meadows.” There was snow on the ground, and the baggage -was hauled by the men on sledges. The cold was bitter, but they were -provided with “ox skins, which the traders call buffalo robes.” - -Beaver Lake was in the wooded country, and, indeed, all Henry’s -journeyings hitherto had been through a region that was timbered; but -here, striking south and west, by way of Cumberland House, he says, “I -was not far advanced before the country betrayed some approaches to the -characteristic nakedness of the plains. The wood dwindled away, both -in size and quantity, so that it was with difficulty we could collect -sufficient for making a fire, and without fire we could not drink, -for melted snow was our only resource, the ice on the river being too -thick to be penetrated by the axe.” Moreover, the weather was bitterly -cold, and after a time provisions grew scanty. No game was seen and no -trace of anything human. The men began to starve and to grow weak, but -as tracks of elk and moose were seen, Henry cheered them up by telling -them that they would certainly kill something before long. - -“On the twentieth, the last remains of our provisions were expended; -but I had taken the precaution to conceal a cake of chocolate in -reserve for an occasion like that which was now arrived. Toward evening -my men, after walking the whole day, began to lose their strength, but -we nevertheless kept on our feet till it was late, and when we encamped -I informed them of the treasure which was still in store. I desired -them to fill the kettle with snow, and argued with them the while that -the chocolate would keep us alive for five days at least, an interval -in which we should surely meet with some Indian at the chase. Their -spirits revived at the suggestion, and, the kettle being filled with -two gallons of water, I put into it one square of the chocolate. The -quantity was scarcely sufficient to alter the color of the water, but -each of us drank half a gallon of the warm liquor, by which we were -much refreshed, and in its enjoyment felt no more of the fatigues of -the day. In the morning we allowed ourselves a similar repast, after -finishing which we marched vigorously for six hours. But now the -spirits of my companions again deserted them, and they declared that -they neither would, nor could, proceed any further. For myself, they -advised me to leave them, and accomplish the journey as I could; but -for themselves, they said, that they must die soon, and might as well -die where they were as anywhere else. - -“While things were in this melancholy posture, I filled the kettle and -boiled another square of chocolate. When prepared I prevailed upon my -desponding companions to return to their warm beverage. On taking it -they recovered inconceivably, and, after smoking a pipe, consented to -go forward. While their stomachs were comforted by the warm water they -walked well, but as evening approached fatigue overcame them, and they -relapsed into their former condition, and, the chocolate being now -almost entirely consumed, I began to fear that I must really abandon -them, for I was able to endure more hardship than they, and, had it -not been for keeping company with them, I could have advanced double -the distance within the time which had been spent. To my great joy, -however, the usual quantity of warm water revived them. - -“For breakfast the next morning I put the last square of chocolate into -the kettle, and, our meal finished, we began our march in but very -indifferent spirits. We were surrounded by large herds of wolves which -sometimes came close upon us, and who knew, as we were prone to think, -the extremity in which we were, and marked us for their prey; but I -carried a gun, and this was our protection. I fired several times, but -unfortunately missed at each, for a morsel of wolf’s flesh would have -afforded us a banquet. - -“Our misery, nevertheless, was still nearer its end than we imagined, -and the event was such as to give one of the innumerable proofs that -despair is not made for man. Before sunset we discovered on the ice -some remains of the bones of an elk left there by the wolves. Having -instantly gathered them, we encamped, and, filling our kettle, prepared -ourselves a meal of strong and excellent soup. The greater part of the -night was passed in boiling and regaling on our booty, and early in the -morning we felt ourselves strong enough to proceed. - -“This day, the twenty-fifth, we found the borders of the plains -reaching to the very banks of the river, which were two hundred feet -above the level of the ice. Water marks presented themselves at twenty -feet above the actual level. - -“Want had lost his dominion over us. At noon we saw the horns of -a red deer [an elk or wapiti] standing in the snow on the river. -On examination we found that the whole carcass was with them, the -animal having broke through the ice in the beginning of the winter in -attempting to cross the river too early in the season, while his horns, -fastening themselves in the ice, had prevented him from sinking. By -cutting away the ice we were enabled to lay bare a part of the back and -shoulders, and thus procure a stock of food amply sufficient for the -rest of our journey. We accordingly encamped and employed our kettle -to good purpose, forgot all our misfortunes, and prepared to walk -with cheerfulness the twenty leagues which, as we reckoned, still lay -between ourselves and Fort des Prairies. - -“Though the deer must have been in this situation ever since the month -of November, yet its flesh was perfectly good. Its horns alone were -five foot high or more, and it will therefore not appear extraordinary -that they should be seen above the snow. - -“On the twenty-seventh, in the morning, we discovered the print of -snow-shoes, demonstrating that several persons had passed that way the -day before. These were the first marks of other human feet than our own -which we had seen since our leaving Cumberland House, and it was much -to feel that we had fellow-creatures in the wide waste surrounding us. -In the evening we reached the fort.” - -At Fort des Prairies, Henry saw more provisions than he had ever before -dreamed of. In one heap he saw fifty tons of buffalo meat, so fat that -the men could hardly find meat lean enough to eat. Immediately south -of this plains country, which he was on the edge of, was the land of -the Osinipoilles [Assiniboines, a tribe of the Dakota or Sioux nation], -and some of these people being at the fort, Henry determined to visit -them at their village, and on the 5th of February set out to do so. The -Indians whom they accompanied carried their baggage on dog travois. -They used snow-shoes and travelled swiftly, and at night camped in the -shelter of a little grove of wood. There were fourteen people in the -tent in which Henry slept that night, but these were not enough to keep -each other warm. They started each morning at daylight, and travelled -as long as they could, and over snow that was often four feet deep. -During the journey they saw buffalo, which Henry calls wild oxen, but -did not disturb them, as they had no time to do so, and no means of -carrying the flesh if they had killed any. One night they met two young -men who had come out to meet the party. They had not known that there -were white men with it, and announced that they must return to advise -the chief of this; but before they could start, a storm came up which -prevented their departure. All that night and part of the next day the -wind blew fiercely, with drifting snow. “In the morning we were alarmed -by the approach of a herd of oxen, who came from the open ground to -shelter themselves in the wood. Their numbers were so great that we -dreaded lest they should fairly trample down the camp; nor could it -have happened otherwise but for the dogs, almost as numerous as they, -who were able to keep them in check. The Indians killed several when -close upon their tents, but neither the fire of the Indians nor the -noise of the dogs could soon drive them away. Whatever were the terrors -which filled the wood, they had no other escape from the terrors of the -storm.” - -Two days later they reached the neighborhood of the camp, which was -situated in a woody island. Messengers came to welcome them, and a -guard armed with bows and spears, evidently the soldiers, to escort -them to the home which had been assigned them. They were quartered in -a comfortable skin lodge, seated on buffalo robes; women brought them -water for washing, and presently a man invited them to a feast, himself -showing them the way to the head chief’s tent. The usual smoking, -feasting, and speech-making followed. - -These Osinipoilles seemed not before to have seen white men, for when -walking about the camp, crowds of women and children followed them, -very respectfully, but evidently devoured by insatiable curiosity. -Water here was obtained by hanging a buffalo paunch kettle filled with -snow in the smoke of the fire, and, as the snow melted, more and more -was added, until the paunch was full of water. During their stay they -never had occasion to cook in the lodge, being constantly invited to -feasts. They had with them always the guard of soldiers, who were -careful to allow no one to crowd upon or annoy the travellers. They -had been here but a short time when the head chief sent them word that -he was going to hunt buffalo the next day, and asked them to be of the -party. - -“In the morning we went to the hunt accordingly. The chief was followed -by about forty men and a great number of women. We proceeded to a small -island [of timber] on the plain, at the distance of five miles from the -village. On our way we saw large herds of oxen at feed, but the hunters -forebore to molest them lest they should take the alarm. - -“Arrived at the island, the women pitched a few tents, while the -chief led his hunters to its southern end, where there was a pound or -inclosure. The fence was about four feet high, and formed of strong -stakes of birch wood, wattled with smaller branches of the same. The -day was spent in making repairs, and by the evening all was ready for -the hunt. - -“At daylight several of the more expert hunters were sent to decoy the -animals into the pound. They were dressed in ox skins, with the hair -and horns. Their faces were covered, and their gestures so closely -resembled those of the animals themselves that, had I not been in the -secret, I should have been as much deceived as the oxen. - -“At ten o’clock one of the hunters returned, bringing information of -the herd. Immediately all the dogs were muzzled; and, this done, the -whole crowd of men and women surrounded the outside of the pound. -The herd, of which the extent was so great that I cannot pretend to -estimate the numbers, was distant half a mile, advancing slowly, and -frequently stopping to feed. The part played by the decoyers was that -of approaching them within hearing and then bellowing like themselves. -On hearing the noise, the oxen did not fail to give it attention, and, -whether from curiosity or sympathy, advanced to meet those from whom it -proceeded. These, in the meantime, fell back deliberately toward the -pound, always repeating the call whenever the oxen stopped. This was -reiterated till the leaders of the herd had followed the decoyers into -the jaws of the pound, which, though wide asunder toward the plain, -terminated, like a funnel, in a small aperture or gateway, and within -this was the pound itself. The Indians remark that in all herds of -animals there are chiefs, or leaders, by whom the motions of the rest -are determined. - -“The decoyers now retired within the pound, and were followed by the -oxen. But the former retired still further, withdrawing themselves -at certain movable parts of the fence, while the latter were fallen -upon by all the hunters and presently wounded and killed by showers of -arrows. Amid the uproar which ensued the oxen made several attempts -to force the fence, but the Indians stopped them and drove them back -by shaking skins before their eyes. Skins were also made use of to -stop the entrance, being let down by strings as soon as the oxen were -inside. The slaughter was prolonged till the evening, when the hunters -returned to their tents. Next morning all the tongues were presented to -the chief, to the number of seventy-two. - -“The women brought the meat to the village on sledges drawn by dogs. -The lumps on the shoulders, and the hearts, as well as the tongues, -were set apart for feasts, while the rest was consumed as ordinary -food, or dried, for sale at the fort.” - -Henry has much to say about the Assiniboines, their methods of -hunting, religion, marriage, healing, and many other customs. He -notes especially their cruelty to their slaves, and says that the -Assiniboines seldom married captive women. - -On the 19th of February the Assiniboine camp started to the Fort des -Prairies, and on the 28th camped at a little distance from it; but -Henry and his companions went on, and reached the post that evening. -Henry declares that “The Osinipoilles at this period had had no -acquaintance with any foreign nation sufficient to affect their ancient -and pristine habits. Like the other Indians, they were cruel to their -enemies; but, as far as the experience of myself and other Europeans -authorizes me to speak, they were a harmless people with a large share -of simplicity of manners and plain dealing. They lived in fear of the -Cristinaux, by whom they were not only frequently imposed upon, but -pillaged, when the latter met their bands in smaller numbers than their -own.” - -On the 22d of March Henry set out to return to Beaver Lake. They -reached Cumberland House on the 5th of April, and Beaver Lake on the -9th. The lake was still covered with ice, and fish had grown scarce, so -that it was necessary to keep fishing all the time in order to provide -sustenance. Early in May, however, water-fowl made their appearance, -and for some little time there was abundance. They left their post on -the 21st of April, very short of provisions. They travelled slowly, -finally coming to a large lake which, on the 6th of June, was still -frozen over, but the ice was too weak to be crossed. The Indians -killed some moose. On reaching Churchill River they set out for Lake -Arabuthcow [Athabasca] with six Canadians and an Indian woman as guide. -The river was sometimes broad and slow-flowing, and again narrow and -very rapid. Fish were plenty. On January 24th they reached Isle à la -Crosse Lake, and met a number of Indians, to whom they made presents -and whom they invited to visit them at their fort. These Indians seem -to have been Chipewyans, known to ethnologists as Athabascans. They -accepted the white men’s invitation, and all started for the fort, -continuing the journey day and night, stopping only to boil the kettle. - -The discipline among these Athabasca Indians seemed exceedingly good, -as, in fact, it usually was in primitive times. The orders given by the -chief were conscientiously obeyed, and this under circumstances of much -temptation, since, when liquor was being served out to the young men, a -certain number were told off who were ordered not to drink at all, but -to maintain a constant guard over the white men. - -In the trade which followed, the Indians delivered their skins at a -small window in the fort, made for that purpose, asking at the same -time for the different articles they wished to purchase, of which the -prices had been previously settled with the chiefs. The trade lasted -for more than two days, and amounted to 12,000 beaver skins, besides -large numbers of otter and marten skins. These Indians had come from -Lake Arabuthcow, at which they had wintered. They reported that at -the farther end of that lake was a river called Peace River, which -descended from the Stony or Rocky Mountains, from which mountains the -distance to the Salt Lake, meaning the Pacific Ocean, was not great. -Other things the Indians told Henry which he did not then understand, -but a few years later Alexander Mackenzie was to meet these problems -and to solve many of them. These Indians dressed in beaver skins, and -were orderly and unoffending. Mr. Joseph Frobisher and Henry now set -out to return to the Grand Portage, leaving the remainder of their -merchandise in the care of Thomas Frobisher, who was to go with them to -Lake Athabasca. - -When Henry reached the Lake of the Woods he found there some Indians, -who told him that a strange nation had entered Montreal, taken Quebec, -killed all the English, and would certainly be at the Grand Portage -before they reached there. Henry remarked to his companion that he -suspected the Bastonnais had been up to some mischief in Canada, and -the Indians at once exclaimed, “Yes, that’s the name, Bastonnais.” -Bastonnais or Bostonnais, that is, “Boston men,” was a name commonly -used in the Northwest to distinguish the Americans from the English, or -“King George men.” - -Without further accident Henry reached the Grand Portage, from which -place he continued to Montreal, which he reached the 15th of October. -Here he found that the Americans had been driven out, and that the -city was protected by the forces of General Burgoyne. The capture of -Montreal took place in the fall of 1775, and Quebec was besieged during -the winter of 1775-1776, and it was nearly a year later that Henry -heard the news at the Lake of the Woods. - -This ends the account of Henry’s travels, but he was still in the -fur trade for many years later. In 1785 he was a leading merchant of -Montreal, and in 1790 he returned to Michilimackinac. - -His book was published in New York in 1809, and thus not until eight -years after the publication of Alexander Mackenzie’s great work. Henry -died in Montreal, April 4, 1824, in the 85th year of his age. - -Besides himself being a fur trader, Henry was a father of fur traders. -His son, William Henry, is constantly mentioned in the diary of -Alexander Henry the younger. A second son, Alexander, was also in the -fur trade, and was killed on the Liard River. Alexander Henry the -younger, a nephew, is well known, and will be noticed hereafter. A Mr. -Bethune, constantly spoken of by Alexander Henry, Jr., may, or may not, -have been a relative. Certain it is that Alexander Henry had nephews -named Bethune. - -The narrative is remarkable from its simplicity and clearness of style, -as well as for the keen powers of observation shown by the writer. It -is one of the most interesting of the many interesting volumes on the -fur trade of its own and later times. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -JONATHAN CARVER - - -At the close of the “late war with France,” when peace had been -established by the treaty of Versailles, in the year 1763, Jonathan -Carver, the captain of a company of provincial troops during the -French and Indian War, began to consider how he might continue to do -service to his country and contribute as much as lay in his power to -make advantageous to Great Britain that vast territory which had been -acquired by that war in North America. What this territory was, how far -it extended, what were its products, who were its inhabitants, were -some of the questions that suggested themselves to Carver. He was a -good patriot, and felt that knowledge as to these points would be of -the greatest importance to his country. With the natural suspicion that -Englishmen of his time felt of the French, he believed that they, while -they retained their power in North America, had taken every artful -method to keep all other nations, particularly the English, ignorant of -everything concerning the interior parts of the country. “To accomplish -this design with the greatest certainty,” he says, “they had published -inaccurate maps and false accounts; calling the different nations of -the Indians by nicknames they had given them, and not by those really -appertaining to them. Whether the intention of the French in doing -this was to prevent these nations from being discovered and traded -with, or to conceal their discourse, when they talked to each other -of the Indian concerns, in their presence, I will not determine; but -whatsoever was the cause from which it arose, it tended to mislead.” - -Carver contemplated something more important and far-reaching than the -mere investigation of the country, for he says: “What I chiefly had -in view after gaining a knowledge of the manners, customs, languages, -soil, and natural products of the different nations that inhabit the -back of the Mississippi, was to ascertain the breadth of that vast -continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean in its broadest part, -between 43 and 46 degrees north latitude. Had I been able to accomplish -this, I intended to have proposed to the government to establish a post -in some of those parts about the Straits of Annian [Puget Sound] which, -having been first discovered by Sir Francis Drake, of course belonged -to the English. This, I am convinced, would greatly facilitate the -discovery of the northwest passage, or a communication between Hudson’s -Bay and the Pacific Ocean, an event so desirable, and which has been -so often sought for, but without success. Besides this important -end, a settlement on that extremity of America would answer many -good purposes, and repay every expense the establishment of it might -occasion. For it would not only disclose new sources of trade, and -promote many useful discoveries, but would open a passage for conveying -intelligence to China, and the English settlements in the East Indies, -with greater expedition than a tedious voyage by the Cape of Good Hope -or the Straits of Magellan would allow of.” - -Carver’s projects for crossing the continent to the Pacific Ocean -proved abortive; yet he travelled into the interior nearly as far as -any one had hitherto advanced. True, the Verendryes and one or two of -the Jesuit Fathers went beyond him on this parallel of latitude; yet -the work which Carver published is almost the first that touches on a -region lying well within the borders of the Louisiana Purchase, and now -one of the most important sections of the United States. - -In his introduction, Carver has a prophetic word to say about the -unhappy relations existing, when he wrote, between Great Britain -and America. “To what power or authority this new world will become -dependent, after it has arisen from its present uncultivated state, -time alone can discover. But as the seat of Empire, from time -immemorial, has been gradually progressive toward the west, there is no -doubt but that at some future period, mighty kingdoms will emerge from -these wildernesses, and stately palaces and solemn temples, with gilded -spires reaching the skies, supplant the Indians’ huts, whose only -decorations are the barbarous trophies of their vanquished enemies.” - -In June, 1766, Carver left Boston for the interior parts of North -America. He has little to say about the country lying adjacent to the -“back-settlements,” which, he observes, have often been described. -He passed through the Great Lakes, mentioning as he goes various -Indian tribes and some of the products of the country, stopped some -little time at the great town of the Winnebagoes, at Lake Winnebago, -in Wisconsin, where he was very civilly received. At this time these -people had a queen, or woman chief. He discusses this tribe at some -length, and incidentally repeats a curious story: “An elderly chief -more particularly acquainted me that, about forty-six winters ago, -he marched, at the head of fifty warriors, toward the south-west for -three moons. That during this expedition, whilst they were crossing -a plain, they discovered a body of men on horseback, who belonged to -the Black People; for so they call the Spaniards. As soon as they -perceived them, they proceeded with caution, and concealed themselves -till night came on; when they drew so near as to be able to discern -the number and situation of their enemies. Finding they were not able -to cope with so great a superiority by daylight, they waited till they -had retired to rest; when they rushed upon them, and after having -killed the greatest part of the men, took eighty horses loaded with -what they termed white stone. This I suppose to have been silver, as -he told me the horses were shod with it, and that their bridles were -ornamented with the same. When they had satiated their revenge, they -carried off their spoil, and being got so far as to be out of reach of -the Spaniards that had escaped their fury, they left the useless and -ponderous burthen, with which the horses were loaded, in the woods, -and mounting themselves, in this manner returned to their friends. -The party they had thus defeated, I conclude to be the caravan that -annually conveys to Mexico the silver which the Spaniards find in great -quantities on the mountains lying near the heads of the Colorado River; -and the plains where the attack was made, probably, some they were -obliged to pass over in their way to the heads of the River St. Fee, or -Rio del Nord, which falls into the Gulf of Mexico to the west of the -Mississippi.” - -From the Winnebago town, Carver proceeded up the Fox River, and then -carried across a short distance to the Ouisconsin River, and proceeded -down that. Here he found the great town of the Saukies, the largest -and best built Indian town he ever saw. It consisted of “about ninety -houses, each large enough for several families, built of hewn plank, -neatly jointed, and covered with bark so compactly as to keep out the -most penetrating rains.” The streets were regular and spacious; and it -appeared more like a civilized town than the abode of savages. About -the town lay the plantations of the Indians, in which they raised great -quantities of corn, beans, and melons; and their annual product was -so large that this place was esteemed the best market for traders to -furnish themselves with provisions of any within eight hundred miles. -Near the mouth of the Wisconsin River, on the banks of the Mississippi, -the Ottigaumies--Outagami, _i. e._, “people of the other band,” that is -the Foxes--had a large town, at a place called “La Prairie des Chiens -[Carver writes this name in various ways], which signifies Dog Plains,” -a great trading place. - -About the first of November, Carver reached Lake Pepin, and speaks with -the greatest enthusiasm of the beauty of the country, its apparent -productiveness, and the extraordinary number of game and wild fowl -seen near about it. “On the plains,” he says, “are the largest buffalo -of any in America. In the groves are found great plenty of turkeys -and partridges; while great numbers of fowl, such as storks, swans, -geese, brants, and ducks frequent the lake.” A little below that lake -he discovered, in a fine, level, open plain, what had once been a -breastwork, about four feet in height, extending the best part of a -mile, and sufficiently capacious to cover five thousand men; one of -the famous mounds for which the Mississippi Valley has so long been -celebrated. - -[Illustration: A MAN OF THE NAUDOWESSIE. - -A MAN OF THE OTTIGAUMIES. - -From _Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America_, by Jonathan -Carver.] - -About thirty miles above Lake Pepin, near the St. Croix River, Carver -met three bands of the Naudowessie--Sioux--Indians; and while he was -there a war party of Chippewas approached the camp, and seemed to be -preparing for an attack. The Sioux requested Carver to help them, to -put himself at their head and lead them against their enemies. This -the traveller was of course unwilling to do, for his work in the -country made it important that he should be friendly with all people. -He endeavored to persuade the Sioux to allow him to attempt to make -peace with the Chippewas, and when at length they assented, he met the -invaders and succeeded in inducing them to turn back without making -an attack. He then persuaded the Sioux to move their camp to another -part of the country, lest the Chippewas should change their mind and -return to attack them. Carver declares that this diplomatic success -gained him great credit with both Sioux and Chippewas; that to it he -was indebted for the friendly reception that he afterward met with the -Naudowessie of the Plains; and that when many months later he reached -the village of the Chippewas, farther to the north, he was received -with great cordiality by the chiefs, many of whom thanked him for -having prevented the mischief. - -About thirty miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, Carver was -shown a remarkable cave of amazing depth, which the Indians called -Wacon-teebe--Wakán tipi, mysterious or sacred dwelling--that is to say, -“the Dwelling of the Great Spirit.” Within it is a lake, which “extends -to an unsearchable distance; for the darkness of the cave prevents all -attempts to acquire a knowledge of it.” The walls are covered with -many Indian hieroglyphics, which seem to be very ancient, for time -had nearly covered them with moss. The Falls of St. Anthony greatly -impressed Carver, as they did the young Indian in his company. - -At the mouth of the river St. Francis, Carver says, “I observed here -many deer and carraboes--a record for the caribou unusually far south -for the mid continent--some elk, with abundance of beavers, otters and -other furs. Not far above this, to the north-east, are a number of -small lakes called the Thousand Lakes; the parts about which though but -little frequented, are the best within many miles for hunting, as the -hunter never fails of returning loaded beyond his expectations.” - -Above the St. Francis River, the Mississippi was new ground, for -Hennepin, the river’s first explorer, had not passed up it farther -than the St. Francis, and Carver remarks that, “As this river is not -navigable from sea for vessels of any considerable burthen, much -higher up than the forks of the Ohio, and even that is accomplished -with great difficulty, owing to the rapidity of the current, and the -windings of the river, those settlements which may be made on the -interior branches of it must be indisputably secure from the attacks -of any maritime power. But at the same time the settlers will have -the advantage of being able to convey their produce to the sea-ports -with great facility, the current of the river, from its source to its -entrance into the Gulph of Mexico, being extremely favorable for doing -this in small craft. This might also in time be facilitated by canals -or shorter cuts; and a communication opened by water with New York, -Canada, etc., by way of the lakes.” - -Returning to the mouth of the river St. Pierre, now the Minnesota -River, Carver ascended this about two hundred miles, to the country -of the Naudowessie of the Plains. The northern branch of the river -St. Pierre rises, he says, from a number of lakes near the Shining -Mountains; and it is from some of these also that a capital branch of -the river Bourbon--the York, now Nelson River--which runs into Hudson’s -Bay, has its sources. All this geography comes from the accounts of -Indians, and is clearly misunderstood as to distance and location, -for Carver says, also, that the river Messorie, which enters the -Mississippi far to the southward, also takes its rise at the head of -the river St. Pierre. His distances were very far from right, for he -makes the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the river Bourbon, and the -Oregon, or River of the West (Columbia), head all together in these -high mountains. - -At the great Sioux camp, which he came to on this river, and which he -estimated to contain a thousand people, most of whom had never seen a -white man, he was most hospitably received. He spent the winter with -them, studying their language, acquiring so far as possible a knowledge -of the geography of the country, and at last, with a considerable -portion of the camp, returning down the river to the Great Cave, and -to the burial ground which lay near it. Before parting with the Sioux -he held a council with them, at which long speeches were made by both -Englishman and Indians, and finally Carver left them to return to La -Prairie du Chien, where there were some traders from whom he purchased -goods for his farther journey. - -Among the places now well known which Carver visited, was what he calls -the Red Mountain, from which the Indians get a sort of red stone out -of which they hew the bowls of their pipes. This is, no doubt, the -pipestone quarry, described by Catlin, and then owned by the Sioux -Indians, which has been purchased by the government as a park. Carver -says, also, that in some of these parts is found a black, hard clay, or -rather stone, of which, the Indians make their family utensils. - -Carver was much impressed by the beauties of the country through -which the river St. Pierre [Minnesota River] flowed; of which he -says: “Wild rice grows here in great abundance; and every part is -filled with trees, bending under their loads of fruit, such as plums, -grapes, and apples; the meadows are covered with hops, and many sorts -of vegetables; whilst the ground is stored with useful roots, with -angelica, spikenard, and ground-nuts as large as hen’s eggs. At a -little distance from the sides of the river are eminences, from which -you have views that cannot be exceeded even by the most beautiful of -those I have already described; amidst these are delightful groves, -and such amazing quantities of maples, that they would produce sugar -sufficient for any number of inhabitants.” - -Carver at length reached La Prairie du Chien, and after attending to -various matters there, returned up the Mississippi to the place where -the Chippewa River enters it, a little below Lake Pepin. Here he -engaged an Indian pilot, and instructed him to steer toward the Ottowaw -Lakes, which lie near the head of that river. About thirty miles from -the mouth, Carver took the easternmost of the two branches and passed -along through the wide, gently flowing stream. “The country adjoining -to the river,” he says, “for about sixty miles, is very level, and on -its banks lie fine meadows, where larger droves of buffaloes and elks -were feeding, than I had observed in any other part of my travels. The -track between the two branches of this river is termed the Road of War -between the Chipeway and Naudowessie Indians.” Near the head of the -stream he came upon a Chippewa town, the houses built after the Indian -manner, and having neat plantations behind them. He then carried over -to the head of the river St. Croix, descended one of the branches, and -then ascended another; and on both streams he discovered several mines -of virgin copper. Then carrying across a height of land and descending -another stream, he found himself on Lake Superior, and coasted along -its western shores until he reached the Grand Portage, between Lake -Superior and Lac la Pluie, or Rainy Lake. - -Here were met a large party of Killistinoe and Assinipoil Indians, -“with their respective kings and their families.” They had come to -this place to meet the traders from the east, who were accustomed to -make this their road to the north-west. From these Indians Carver -received considerable geographical information about the country to the -westward, much of which, however, is too vague to be very valuable. -Many of the great lakes to the westward were mentioned and described, -and some of them are readily recognized. Such are Lake Winnepeek, Lac -du Bois, and Lac la Pluye, or Rainy Lake. Of the country about Lake -Bourbon and Lake Winnepeek it was said that there were found some -buffalo of small size, which were fat and good in the latter part -of the summer. This difference in size Carver attributes to their -northerly situation; “just as the black cattle of the northern parts of -Great Britain differ from English oxen.” But it is quite probable that -these “small buffalo” may have been musk-oxen, and their location wrong. - -“These Indians informed me that to the northwest of Lake Winnepeek lies -another whose circumference vastly exceeded any they had given me an -account of. They describe it as much larger than Lake Superior. But -as it appears to be so far to the northwest, I should imagine that it -was not a lake, but rather the Archipelago or broken waters that form -the communication between Hudson’s Bay and the northern parts of the -Pacific Ocean.” - -As already stated, Carver believed that the headwaters of the Missouri -were not far from the headwaters of his St. Pierre River. The Indians -told him that they frequently crossed over from the head of that stream -to the Missouri. The nearest water to the head of the Minnesota River -is Big Sioux River in Dakota, which is, in fact, a tributary of the -Missouri. - -The ethnological information there gathered was as little trustworthy -as that concerning the geography of the more distant parts. For -example, it is said that in the country belonging to the Pawnees, and -the Pawnawnees, nations inhabiting some branches of the Messorie River, -mandrakes are frequently found, a species of root resembling human -beings of both sexes; and that these are more perfect than such as are -discovered about the Nile in Nether-Ethiopia. - -“A little to the northwest of the heads of the Messorie and the St. -Pierre, the Indians further told me, that there was a nation rather -smaller and whiter than the neighboring tribes, who cultivate the -ground, and (as far as I could gather from their expressions), in -some measure, the arts. To this account they added that some of the -nations who inhabit those parts that lie to the west of the Shining -Mountains, have gold so plenty among them that they make their most -common utensils of it. These mountains (which I shall describe more -particularly hereafter) divide the waters that fall into the South Sea -from those that run into the Atlantic. - -“The people dwelling near them are supposed to be some of the different -tribes that were tributary to the Mexican kings, and who fled from -their native country to seek an asylum in these parts, about the time -of the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, more than two centuries -ago.” After a brief discussion of the reasons which may have led these -supposed immigrants, and the Winnebagoes to leave their southern home -for the north, Carver speaks at some length of the Shining or Rocky -Mountains, just mentioned. - -“That range of mountains, of which the Shining Mountains are a part, -begin at Mexico, and continuing northward on the back or at the east -of California, separate the waters of those numerous rivers that fall -either into the Gulph of Mexico or the Gulph of California. From thence -continuing their course still northward, between the sources of the -Mississippi and the rivers that run into the South Sea, they appear -to end in about forty-seven or forty-eight degrees of north latitude; -where a number of rivers arise, and empty themselves either into the -South Sea, into Hudson’s Bay, or into the waters that communicate -between these two seas. - -“Among these mountains, those that lie to the west of the river St. -Pierre are called the Shining Mountains, from an infinite number of -crystal stones, of an amazing size, with which they are covered, and -which, when the sun shines full upon them, sparkle so as to be seen at -a very great distance. - -“This extraordinary range of mountains is calculated to be more -than three thousand miles in length, without any very considerable -intervals, which I believe surpasses anything of the kind in the other -quarters of the globe. Probably in future ages they may be found to -contain more riches in their bowels than those of Indostan and Malabar, -or that are produced on the Golden Coast of Guinea; nor will I except -even the Peruvian mines. To the west of these mountains, when explored -by future Columbuses or Raleighs, may be found other lakes, rivers -and countries, full fraught with all the necessaries or luxuries of -life; and where future generations may find an asylum, whether driven -from their country by the ravages of lawless tyrants, or by religious -persecutions, or reluctantly leaving it to remedy the inconveniences -arising from a superabundant increase of inhabitants; whether, I say, -impelled by these, or allured by hopes of commercial advantages, there -is little doubt but their expectations will be fully gratified by these -rich and unexhausted climes.” - -The pages which Carver devotes to a description of the unknown country -to the west, are inserted in his account while he was sojourning with -these Crees and Assiniboines, at the Grand Portage. There were more -than three hundred people in the camp, and as they waited for the -traders who did not come, their stock of provisions began to run low; -and the coming of the traders was awaited with an impatience that -increased day by day. - -It was during this period of waiting that Carver had an opportunity -to witness one of those prophecies by a priest, or medicine man, -which even in modern times have puzzled many cool and clear heads; -and though the story of what he saw is long, yet it is worth while to -give his account of it in full. It appears that one day while all were -expressing their hopes for the early arrival of the traders, and were -sitting on the hill looking over the lake, in the hope that they might -be seen, the chief priest of the Crees informed those who were with -him that he would endeavor to obtain information from the Great Spirit -as to when the traders would arrive. Carver gave little heed to the -suggestion, supposing it to be merely a juggling trick; but the chief -of the tribe advised him that the priest had made this offer chiefly -for the purpose of allaying his anxiety, and at the same time to -convince Carver of his ability to talk with the Great Spirit. - -“The following evening was fixed upon for this spiritual conference. -When everything had been properly prepared, the king came to me and led -me to a capacious tent, the covering of which was drawn up, so as to -render what was transacting within visible to those who stood without. -We found the tent surrounded by a great number of the Indians, but we -readily gained admission, and seated ourselves on skins laid on the -ground for that purpose. - -“In the centre I observed that there was a place of an oblong shape, -which was composed of stakes stuck in the ground, with intervals -between, so as to form a kind of chest or coffin, large enough to -contain the body of a man. These were of a middle size, and placed at -such a distance from each other, that whatever lay within them was -readily to be discerned. The tent was perfectly illuminated by a great -number of torches made of splinters cut from the pine or birch tree, -which the Indians held in their hands. - -“In a few minutes the priest entered; when an amazing large elk’s skin -being spread on the ground, just at my feet, he laid himself down upon -it, after having stript himself of every garment except that which he -wore close about his middle. Being now prostrate upon his back, he -first laid hold of one side of the skin, and folded it over him, and -then the other; leaving only his head uncovered. This was no sooner -done, than two of the young men who stood by took about forty yards of -strong cord, made also of an elk’s hide, and rolled it tight around -his body, so that he was completely swathed within the skin. Being -thus bound up like an Egyptian mummy, one took him by the heels and the -other by the head, and lifted him over the pales into the inclosure. I -could now also discern him as plain as I had hitherto done, and I took -care not to turn my eyes a moment from the object before me, that I -might the more readily detect the artifice, for such I doubted not but -that it would turn out to be. - -“The priest had not lain in this situation more than a few seconds when -he began to mutter. This he continued to do for some time, and then by -degrees grew louder and louder, till at length he spoke articulately; -however, what he uttered was in such a mixed jargon of the Chippeway, -Ottawaw, and Killistinoe languages, that I could understand but very -little of it. Having continued in this tone for a considerable while -he at last exerted his voice to its utmost pitch, sometimes raving and -sometimes praying, till he had worked himself into such an agitation -that he foamed at his mouth. - -“After having remained near three-quarters of an hour in the place and -continued his vociferation with unabated vigor, he seemed to be quite -exhausted, and remained speechless. But in an instant he sprung to his -feet, notwithstanding at the time he was put in it appeared impossible -for him to move either his legs or arms, and shaking off his covering, -as quick as if the bands with which it had been bound were burned -asunder, he began to address those who stood around, in a firm and -audible voice. ‘My Brothers,’ said he, ‘the Great Spirit has deigned -to hold a talk with his servant at my earnest request. He has not, -indeed, told me when the persons we expect will be here, but to-morrow, -soon after the sun has reached his highest point in the heavens, a -canoe will arrive, and the people in that will inform us when the -traders will come.’ Having said this, he stepped out of the inclosure, -and after he had put on his robes, dismissed the assembly. I own I was -greatly astonished at what I had seen, but as I observed that every eye -in the company was fixed on me with a view to discover my sentiments, I -carefully concealed every emotion. - -“The next day the sun shone bright, and long before noon all the -Indians were gathered together on the eminence that overlooked the -lake. The old king came to me and asked me whether I had so much -confidence in what the priest had foretold as to join his people on -the hill and wait for the completion of it? I told him that I was at a -loss what opinion to form of the prediction, but that I would readily -attend him. On this we walked together to the place where the others -were assembled. Every eye was again fixed by turns on me and on the -lake; when just as the sun had reached his zenith, agreeable to what -the priest had foretold, a canoe came round a point of land about a -league distant. The Indians no sooner beheld it than they sent up an -universal shout, and by their looks seemed to triumph in the interest -their priest thus evidently had with the Great Spirit. - -“In less than an hour the canoe reached the shore, when I attended -the king and chiefs to receive those who were on board. As soon as -the men were landed, we walked all together to the king’s tent, where -according to their invariable custom we began to smoke; and this we -did, notwithstanding our impatience to know the tidings they brought, -without asking any questions; for the Indians are the most deliberate -people in the world. However, after some trivial conversation, the -king inquired of them whether they had seen anything of the traders? -The men replied that they had parted from them a few days before, and -that they proposed being here the second day from the present. They -accordingly arrived at that time, greatly to our satisfaction, but -more particularly to that of the Indians, who found by this event the -importance both of their priest and of their nation greatly augmented -in the sight of a stranger. - -“This story I acknowledge appears to carry with it marks of great -credulity in the relator. But no one is less tinctured with that -weakness than myself. The circumstances of it I own are of a very -extraordinary nature; however, as I can vouch for their being free -from either exaggeration or misrepresentation, being myself a cool and -dispassionate observer of them all, I thought it necessary to give them -to the public. And this I do, without wishing to mislead the judgment -of my readers, or to make any superstitious impressions on their minds, -but leaving them to draw from it what conclusions they please.” - -The arrival of the traders, so anxiously looked for, did not greatly -help Carver, who found that he could not procure from them the goods -that he desired, and shortly afterward he proceeded eastward, having -coasted around the north and east shores of Lake Superior. He describes -the lake, and the various peoples who inhabit its borders, most of whom -are Chippewas. During his trip, he found native copper on a stream -running into the lake on the south, and describes how large a trade -might be made in this metal, which, as he says, “costs nothing on -the spot, and requires but little expense to get it on board; could -be conveyed in boats or canoes through the Falls of St. Marie to the -Isle of St. Joseph, which lies at the bottom of the straits near the -entrance into Lake Huron; from thence it might be put on board large -vessels, and in them transported across that lake to the Falls of -Niagara; there being carried by land across the Portage, it might -be conveyed without much more obstruction to Quebec. The cheapness -and ease with which any quantity of it may be procured will make up -for the length of way that it is necessary to transport it before it -reaches the sea-coast, and enable the proprietors to send it to foreign -markets on as good terms as it can be exported from other countries.” -Stockholders in the Calumet and Hecla and in other Lake Superior copper -concerns are requested to take notice. - -The fishing of Lake Superior impressed Carver as much as it has other -travellers. Of these fish he says: “The principal and best are the -trout and sturgeon, which may be caught at almost any season in the -greatest abundance. The trout in general weigh about twelve pounds; -but some are caught that exceed fifty. Besides these, a species of -white fish is taken in great quantities here, that resemble a shad in -their shape, but they are rather thicker, and less bony; they weigh -about four pounds each, and are of a delicious taste. The best way of -catching these fish is with a net; but the trout may be taken at all -times with the hook. There are likewise many sorts of smaller fish -in great plenty here, and which may be taken with ease; among these -is a sort resembling a herring, which are generally made use of as a -bait for the trout.” The foot of the Sault Ste. Marie, which Carver -calls the Falls of St. Marie, is noted by him as “a most commodious -station for catching the fish, which are to be found there in immense -quantities. Persons standing on the rocks which lie adjacent to it may -take with dipping nets, about the months of September and October, the -white fish before-mentioned; at that season, together with several -other species, they crowd up to this spot in such amazing shoals that -enough may be taken to supply, when properly cured, thousands of -inhabitants throughout the year.” - -Passing now through the Straits into Lake Huron, this body of water is -described, and attention called to the rise and fall of the waters, -which Carver says is not diurnal, but occurs in periods of seven years -and a half. Still going eastward, the town of Detroit was reached, and -something given of its history in recent years, and especially of the -conspiracy of Pontiac, and the death of that chief. - -In Lake Erie, Carver noticed the islands near the west end, so infested -with rattlesnakes that it is very dangerous to land on them; and also -the great number of water-snakes, which lie in the sun on the leaves of -the large pond-lilies floating on the water. - -“The most remarkable of the different species that infest this lake is -the hissing-snake [the innocent _Heterodon platyrhinos_], which is of -the small, speckled kind, and about eighteen inches long. When anything -approaches, it flattens itself in a moment, and its spots, which are -of varied dyes, become visibly brighter through rage; at the same -time it blows from its mouth with great force a subtile wind, that is -reported to be of a nauseous smell; and if drawn in with the breath of -the unwary traveller, will infallibly bring on a decline, that in a few -months must prove mortal, there being no remedy yet discovered which -can counteract its baneful influence.” Still proceeding eastward, the -author continues to describe the country, mentioning many well-known -lakes, and the peoples about them. - -This concludes Carver’s journey, but by no means his book, of which -the remaining two-thirds are devoted to the manners and customs of -the Indians, with a chapter giving vocabularies of several languages, -and other chapters treating of the fauna and flora of the vast region -passed over. Like most writers about the Indians, he discusses their -origin, quoting a great number of authors, from the discovery of -America to the time of his writing; the last of these, Adair, who, as -is well known, devoted a very considerable work to proving to his own -satisfaction that the Indians were the lost tribes of Israel. Carver -announces that he is of the opinion that “the North American continent -received its first inhabitants from the islands which lie between the -extremities of Asia and America, viz., Japon, Yeso, or Jedso, Gama’s -Land, Behring’s Isle, with many others”; to which he adds a cluster -of islands that reach as far as Siberia, which may possibly be the -Aleutian Islands. To support this conclusion, he advances many cogent -arguments, and announces that “that great and learned historian Doctor -Robinson,” is of the same opinion with him. - -Concerning the persons and dress of the Indians, Carver has much to -say. He notices many things still well known, and speaks of certain -others that are so long obsolete as to be almost forgotten. Thus he -declares that: “It is also a common custom among them to bore their -noses, and wear in them pendants of different sorts. I observed that -sea-shells were much worn by those of the interior parts, and reckoned -very ornamental; but how they procured them I could not learn: probably -by their traffick with other nations nearer the sea.” Another custom -noted, which has long been obsolete, but is still remembered by the -most ancient persons of some of the Western tribes, is the woman’s -fashion of dressing the hair. To the west of the Mississippi, he says, -the Sioux and Assiniboine women “divide their hair in the middle of the -head, and form it into two rolls, one against each ear. These rolls are -about three inches long, and as large as their wrists. They hang in a -perpendicular attitude at the front of each ear, and descend as far as -the lower part of it.” - -The characteristics of the Indians, their method of reckoning time, -their government, division into tribes, their chiefs, food, dances, and -many other matters, are described at great length; as is also their -hunting, their manner of making war, and, incidentally, the defeat of -Braddock, and the massacre of the people under Col. Monroe, at Fort -William Henry. Carver himself appears to have been with the prisoners, -of whom so many were massacred on that unhappy day; but he himself at -length reached Fort Edward in safety. He tells something, also, of the -way in which the Indians tortured their captives, and speaks of the -Illinois Indian brought into the town of Ottigaumies, who was bound to -a tree while all the small boys in the village were permitted to amuse -themselves by shooting arrows at the victim. As none of the boys were -more than twelve years old, and they were placed at a considerable -distance, their arrows did little more than pierce the skin; so that -the prisoner stood for more than two days pierced with these arrows. -During all this time he sung his warlike exploits, told how much injury -he had inflicted on his enemies, and endeavored with his last gasp to -incite his tormentors to greater efforts, in order that he might give -still greater proofs of his fortitude. - -Following the chapter on war comes one on their methods of making -peace; then one on games, marriage, religion, and character. The last -hundred pages of the volume treats “Of the Beasts, Birds, Fishes, -Reptiles, and Insects, which are found in the interior parts of North -America.” Of the larger mammals a catalogue is given from which two or -three descriptions may be taken. - -“The Carrabou. This beast is not near so tall as the moose, however, it -is something like it in shape, only rather more heavy, and inclining -to the form of an ass. The horns of it are not flat as those of an elk -are, but round like those of the deer; they also meet nearer together -at the extremities, and bend more over the face than either those of -the elk or moose. It partakes of the swiftness of the deer, and is -with difficulty overtaken by its pursuers. The flesh of it likewise is -equally as good, the tongue particularly is in high esteem. The skin -being smooth and free from veins is as valuable as shamoy.” - -“The Carcajou. This creature, which is of the cat kind, is a terrible -enemy to the preceding four species of beasts. He either comes upon -them from some concealment unperceived, or climbs up into a tree, and -taking his station on some of the branches, waits till one of them, -driven by an extreme of heat or cold, takes shelter under it; when he -fastens upon his neck, and opening the jugular vein, soon brings his -prey to the ground. This he is enabled to do by his long tail, with -which he encircles the body of his adversary; and the only means they -have to shun their fate is by flying immediately to the water, by this -method, as the carcajou has a great dislike to that element, he is -sometimes got rid of before he can effect his purpose.” - -There is a very long description of the beaver, and its extraordinary -intelligence. - -The list of birds, too, is a long one; but that of the fishes is very -short. To snakes, as might be imagined, much space is given; but to -insects very little. Carver describes the lightning-bug, but adds: -“Notwithstanding this effulgent appearance, these insects are perfectly -harmless; you may permit them to crawl upon your hand, when five or -six, if they freely exhibit their glow together, will enable you to -read almost the finest print.” - -Trees, plants, and shrubs are all described, and among them the wild -rice, of which Carver says: “In future periods it will be of great -service to the infant colonies, as it will afford them a present -support until in the course of cultivation other supplies may be -produced; whereas in those realms which are not furnished with this -bounteous gift of nature, even if the climate is temperate and the soil -good, the first settlers are often exposed to great hardships from the -want of an immediate resource for necessary food.” - -In his appendix, Carver sums up conclusions drawn from his extensive -travels in, and wide knowledge of, the interior of the continent. He -has faith in the discovery of a north-west passage, and believes that -Hudson’s Bay would be a safe retreat for the adventurous navigators who -might try, at first unsuccessfully, a north-west passage. He even names -a certain Richard Whitworth, gentleman, of England, who had proposed -pursuing nearly the same route as Carver, and having built a fort at -Lake Pepin, to have proceeded up the river St. Pierre, crossed over the -river Messorie, till, having discovered the source of the Oregon, or -River of the West, he would have sailed down that river to the place -where it is said to empty itself near the Straits of Annian. Carver was -to have accompanied this Mr. Whitworth on his explorations, and many of -the preparations had been made for the trip, “when the present troubles -in America began, which put a stop to an enterprize that promised to be -of inconceivable advantage to the British dominions.” - -So the War of the Revolution put an end to Carver’s Western -explorations. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -ALEXANDER MACKENZIE - -I - - -Of the early explorers of the north none is more celebrated than -Alexander Mackenzie, the first man to penetrate from the interior to -the Frozen Ocean, and the first in the farther north to cross the -continent. Among the leaders of the north-west he is pre-eminent as -a discoverer, and of the early northmen his name is the most often -mentioned. His journeyings--that to the Arctic made in the year -1789, and that across the continent in 1792 and 1793--are told of in -a splendid volume, published in London in the year 1801, entitled, -_Voyages from Montreal and the River St. Lawrence, Through the -Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, in -the Year 1789 and 1793_. Its publication was soon followed by the -conferring of knighthood on the author. - -[Illustration: ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. - -From Mackenzie’s _Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North -America_, etc.] - -The earliest explorations of the interior of this continent were all -of them by water. By water the first missionaries pushed their way up -the St. Lawrence and through the Great Lakes, and then crossing over by -short portages to the Mississippi, journeyed down that great highway -of more modern times until they came to the Gulf of Mexico. Later, -missionaries and explorers and traders, still from Montreal, followed -the water trail up the Great Lakes to the Grand Portage, and thence -pressed westward until they reached Lake Winnipeg, the Saskatchewan, -and all that broad country which lies east of the northern Rocky -Mountains. The frail birch canoe carried their scanty provisions and -their goods for trade, and returned laden to the gunwale with rich -packages of furs. Later still, when the people of the United States -began to push westward, it was down the Alleghany and the Ohio--still -largely by water--that their journeyings were conducted. - -Alexander Mackenzie was a fur trader, and he made his way westward, -by the usual route, to the Grand Portage, Lake Winnipeg, then up -the Saskatchewan and across to Fort Chipewyan, on the Lake of the -Hills--now known as Athabaska Lake. Though the journey was long, it -was full of interest; the country had been seen by few white people, -it abounded in life of many descriptions, all wild, and for the most -part undisturbed. He reached Fort Chipewyan with ninety or a hundred -men, and without any provision for their sustenance; but the lake was -full of fish, its shores abounded with game. The autumn fishing was -successful, and the cold during the winter intense, so that fish were -caught in great numbers and frozen, remaining good until spring. During -the spring and fall vast flocks of wild fowl resorted to the lakes, -and immense numbers were killed, so that for short terms the geese -supported the life of the traders. - -In 1783 and 1784 the Northwest Fur Company had been established, in -opposition to the Hudson’s Bay Company, and included among its partners -many of the most celebrated traders of the north. Mackenzie had for -five years been employed in the counting house of Messrs. Gregory and -McLeod, and was admitted a partner in the Northwest Fur Company, and -went to the Indian country in 1785. How enormous the trade that this -company carried on is shown by a list of the returns for a single year, -which gives 106,000 beaver skins, 2,100 bear, 4,600 otter, 17,000 -musquash, 32,000 marten, 6,000 lynx, 600 wolverine, 1,650 fisher, -besides a less number of fox, kitfox, wolf, elk, raccoon and deer -skins, and buffalo robes. Mackenzie was astronomer as well as trader. -He was also an observer who considered the economic possibilities of -the country, its fauna and its flora, and especially the game, as well -as the human inhabitants. - -Mackenzie started from Fort Chipewyan, on the south side of the Lake of -the Hills, June 3, 1789, in a birch-bark canoe. His crew consisted of -four Canadians, a German, and two Indian women. An Indian interpreter, -known as English Chief, and his two wives journeyed in a small canoe, -while two young Indians followed in a third. English Chief had been one -of the followers of a chief who was with Mr. Hearne on his explorations -to the Coppermine River. A fourth canoe, in charge of one of the clerks -of the company, Mr. Le Roux, accompanied them, carrying a load of -trade goods and presents, together with a part of the provisions and -ammunition of the expedition. Their route was without much adventure -until they reached Slave Lake, still covered with ice, somewhat melted -near the shore. The gnats and mosquitoes which had troubled them during -the first few days that they had been on their way, here left them. -Mackenzie says: “The Indians informed me that at a very small distance -from either bank of the river are very extensive plains frequented by -large herds of buffaloes: while the moose and reindeer keep in the -woods that border on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build -their habitations in small lakes and rivers, as in the larger streams -the ice carries everything along with it during the spring. The mud -banks in the river are covered with wild fowl, and we this morning -killed two swans, ten geese, and one beaver, without suffering the -delay of an hour; so that we might have soon filled the canoe with -them, if that had been our object.” That same day they reached the -house erected on Slave Lake by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux in 1786, and -here they stopped and pitched their tents, as it seemed likely that the -ice would detain them for some time. The nets were set and many fish -were caught. Berries were already ripe, and the women were occupied -in gathering them, while wild fowl were breeding, and they collected -some dozens of their eggs. On Monday, June 15, the ice broke up near -them, and cleared a passage to the islands opposite; and at sunset they -embarked and crossed to them, where they stopped to gum their canoes, -and the next day set out again, following the shores of the lake. Ice -interrupted their passage from time to time. They supplied themselves -with food by means of their nets. - -On the 18th, two of the hunters killed a reindeer and its fawn. The -ice continued to hinder them, but they worked along slowly. On one of -the islands that they passed reindeer were seen, and seven killed. -The island was named Isle de Carre Boeuf. Here occurs a somewhat -unusual usage of the term pemmican, described to be “fish dried in -the sun, and afterward pounded for the convenience of carriage.” The -more common meaning of the term is, flesh dried and pounded and mixed -with grease--as buffalo pemmican, elk pemmican, caribou pemmican. On -Tuesday, the 23d, the explorer met with a little camp--three lodges--of -Red-Knife Indians, so called from their copper knives. They informed -the explorer that others of their people were near at hand. These -Indians--now known as Yellow-Knives--are of Athabaskan stock, thus -allied to the Hare, Dog-Rib, and Chipewyan peoples, also to the Navajos -and Apaches of the south. They possessed some furs, and Mr. Le Roux -secured from them eight packs of good beaver and marten skins. They -seemed to know little or nothing about the country to the north, and -Mackenzie’s inquiries brought forth no useful information. - -The ice in the lake was still troublesome, though breaking up fast. On -Monday, June 29, they entered the river by which Slave Lake discharges -to the north, and made good progress down it. On both sides of the -river the Indians reported that there were extensive plains, which -abounded in buffalo and moose-deer. By this time the wild fowl had -begun to molt, and the Indians no longer troubled to shoot them, but -pursued them in their canoes, killing them with sticks or capturing -them alive. On the 1st of July, keeping on down the river, they made a -cache of provisions on an island. By this time they had come in sight -of high mountains to the west, barren and rocky at the top, but well -wooded on the slopes. - -On July 3 the current was stronger, and their progress still more -rapid. They saw frequent signs of camps, but none of very recent -occupation; but on the 5th, smoke was seen on the north shore of the -river, and as the canoes drew nearer, natives were discovered running -about in apparent alarm. Some took refuge in the woods, others hurried -to their canoes. The hunters landed, and calling out to the Chipewyans -in their own tongue, assured them that the party was a friendly one, -and after some difficulty the Indians became convinced that there was -no danger. These were five families of two different tribes, the Slave -and the Dog-Rib. Mackenzie offered them the pipe, though it was quite -apparent that they were unacquainted with tobacco, and also gave them a -drink of grog, which also seemed new to them. However, they appreciated -the beauties of knives, beads, awls, rings, hatchets, etc., and soon -became so trustful that “They became more familiar even than we -expected, for we could not keep them out of our tents; though I did not -observe that they attempted to purloin anything. - -“The information that they gave respecting the river had so much of -the fabulous that I shall not detail it; it will be sufficient just to -mention their attempts to persuade us that it would require several -winters to get to the sea, and that old age would come upon us before -the period of our return; we were also to encounter monsters of such -horrid shapes and destructive power as could only exist in their wild -imagination. They added, besides, that there were two impassable falls -in the river, the first of which was about thirty days’ march from us.” - -While these stories did not affect Mackenzie, they did influence his -Indians, who were already tired of the voyage, and anxious to turn -back, and it required some effort to convince them that it was better -to go on. One of the natives was persuaded to accompany them as a -guide, and though he afterward wished to withdraw, he was not allowed -to, and with some ceremony he finally took his unwilling departure -with the white men. These people used bone knives, were tattooed on -the face, wore a goose-quill, or a small piece of wood, through the -nose, and used vessels woven of wattap--the roots of the spruce or -tamarack--in which they boiled their food by hot stones. Arrows were -pointed with horn, flint, iron, or copper, and their axes were made of -stone. From the neighboring Red-Knives and Chipewyans, by barter for -skins, they obtained small pieces of iron, from which also they made -knives. Their awls were of iron or horn. - -The guide whom they took from this country was anxious to return to -his people, and had to be watched constantly to prevent his escape. -As the explorers passed on northward they were constantly in sight of -the ridge of snowy mountains to the west. “Our conductor informed us -that great numbers of bears and small white buffaloes frequent those -mountains, which are also inhabited by Indians.” These white buffalo -have been thought to be white goats; probably they were the white sheep -(_Ovis dalli_) which inhabit the mountains to the west of the Mackenzie -River. - -The next day more natives were met with, who, as usual, fled on -the approach of the white men. One old man, however, did not run, -but approached the travellers, “and represented himself as too far -advanced in life, and too indifferent about the short time he had to -remain in the world, to be very anxious about escaping from any danger -that threatened him; at the same time, he pulled his gray hairs from -his head by handfuls to distribute among us, and implored our favor -for himself and for his relations. Our guide, however, at length -removed his fears, and persuaded him to recall the fugitives, who -consisted of eighteen people.” These joyfully received the presents -of beads, knives, and awls, which were offered them, and overwhelmed -the explorers with hospitable attentions, giving them food, which was -gladly accepted. They told of dangers to be met with farther down the -river, and some of the natives accompanied Mackenzie’s people to point -out the safest channel of the rapids, which they declared to be just -beyond; but as a matter of fact there were no rapids. The river was -about three hundred yards broad, and Mackenzie’s soundings gave fifty -fathoms of water. - -Along the river there were almost continuous encampments of Indians, -all of whom were spoken to, and all of whom traded food, such as hares, -ptarmigan and fish, to the travellers. The last parties met with were -Hare Indians, who told wonderful stories of danger and of fearful -things to be met on the river; and these terrors were not distant, for -according to the Indians, behind an island opposite their camp dwelt a -spirit in the river which swallowed every person that approached it. -Unfortunately, Mackenzie had no time to cross to the island, to see -whether it would swallow him. - -The people met a little farther along were more attractive than those -seen earlier, many of whom had been sick, while these were “healthy, -full of flesh, and clean in their persons.” Their ornaments and -utensils did not differ greatly from those farther up the river. They -had a little iron, which they obtained from the Eskimos; their arrows -were made of very light wood, and winged with two feathers, while their -bows were of Eskimo type, made of two pieces spliced with sinew. Their -shirts were not cut square at the bottom, but tapered to a point from -the belt downward as low as the knee, before and behind, and these -points were fringed. Over the breast, back, and shoulders their shirts -were also fringed, the fringe being ornamented with the stone of a -berry, which was drilled and run on each string of the fringe. The -sleeves of the shirts were short and wide, and long mittens covered -their hands and arms. Their leggings were like trousers, and the shoes -sewed to the leggings. - -These people told them that it would take ten more nights to reach the -sea, but after three nights they would meet the Eskimo. The reports -of some guns discharged as the canoes pushed off greatly alarmed -the Indians, and the guide that they had hired at this place seemed -inclined to leave them, until advised that the noise was a signal of -friendship. The guide and two of his companions who accompanied them on -their journey were merry fellows, singing not only their native songs, -but others in imitation of the Eskimos. Not satisfied with singing, -their guide proceeded to dance, and transferring himself to the white -men’s canoe, he danced in it, to their no small alarm lest it should be -upset. - -Mackenzie now began to be a little uneasy, for his provisions were -growing scant, his hunters discouraged, and his men generally seemed -anxious to return. Some of them declared that they must turn back, -and the explorer was obliged to satisfy them by the assurance that he -would go forward only seven days more, and if he did not then reach the -sea, would return. They had now reached latitude 68°, and the sun was -continually above the horizon. On the 11th they met an abandoned camp -of Indians, where were seen parts of the fragments of three canoes, -and places where oil had been spilt. Later, an Eskimo hut was found, -and about it a great deal of property. Now, they began to see fresh -tracks of the Eskimos on the beach. According to their guide, they -were approaching a large lake, where the Eskimos lived, and in which -they killed large fish found there, which Mackenzie presumed must be -whales. White bears, and other large animals not identified from the -description, were told of, as well as the Eskimo canoes, which could -conveniently carry four or five families. - -On the 12th, in the morning, they landed where there were four huts. -“The adjacent land is high and covered with short grass and flowers, -though the earth was not thawed above four inches from the surface, -beneath which was a solid body of ice. This beautiful appearance, -however, was strongly contrasted with the ice and snow that was seen -in the valleys. The soil, where there is any, is a yellow clay mixed -with stones. These huts appear to have been abandoned during the last -winter, and we had reason to think that some of the natives had been -lately there, as the beach was covered with the tracks of their feet. -Many of the runners and bars of their sledges were laid together -near the houses in a manner that seemed to denote the return of the -proprietors. There were also pieces of netting made of sinews, and -some of bark of the willow. A thread of the former was platted, and no -ordinary portion of time must have been employed in manufacturing so -great a length of cord. A square stone kettle with a flat bottom also -occupied our attention, which was capable of containing two gallons; -and we were puzzled as to the means these people must have employed to -have chiselled it out of a solid rock into its present form.” - -When they had satisfied their curiosity they were about to re-embark, -but were puzzled to know where they should go or what channel they -should take. The lake was quite open to them to the westward, and -the water very shallow, so much so that it was impossible to go very -close to the shore. They therefore went to an island, where they -camped, and, having set the net, Mackenzie and his interpreter climbed -to the highest part of the island, from which they discovered solid -ice, extending from the south-west by compass to the north and to the -eastward. To the east were many islands. - -As they passed along, on their walk of exploration, they came upon a -number of white partridges, now becoming brown--the ptarmigan--and -beautiful plover, which were breeding. There were also white owls, and -presently they came upon an Eskimo grave. - -Even the Indians and the Canadians, seeing that the time for turning -back had almost come, began to regret that they must return without -coming to the sea, not knowing that they were already upon it. For -the next two or three nights they were several times obliged to move -the baggage to keep the water from flowing about it, and at last -Mackenzie concluded that this was the tide that was rising and falling. -One morning many large animals were seen in the water, and Mackenzie -recognized them as whales, and ordered the canoe to start in pursuit. -Fortunately, just at this time a fog arose and the whales were not -overtaken. These were white whales, and, the Indian guide stated, were -one of the principal sources of food for the Eskimo. - -All Mackenzie’s efforts to meet these northern people failed, and on -Thursday, the 16th of July, the canoes entered the river and began the -return journey. They were still subsisting largely on the wild fowl -that the Indians killed and the fish that they took in their nets, and -these were barely enough to support them. Indeed, on some days the wild -fowl were so shy that they could not be approached, and this obliged -them to draw more or less on their store of provisions. However, on the -18th, and before they had gotten away from the country of the Eskimos, -the hunters killed two reindeer, a very fortunate addition to their -supply of food. But this killing of the reindeer was not without its -unfortunate side, for it so alarmed their guide that he deserted that -night. However, geese were plenty, and on the following day the hunters -killed twenty-two, and the next day fifteen, and four swans. - -They were now obliged to resort to the laborious and slow towing-line -to ascend the river. They met a party of Indians, among whom was the -brother of the guide who had recently deserted, and Mackenzie sat up -all night to watch them. They were greatly interested when they saw him -writing, wondering what he was doing. As the night drew on, some women -came from the forest to the camp, and after remaining for a short time, -went away. “Those who remained immediately kindled a small fire and -layed themselves down to sleep around it, like so many whelps, having -neither skins nor garments of any kind to cover them, notwithstanding -the cold that prevailed. My people having placed their kettle of meat -on the fire, I was obliged to guard it from the natives, who made -several attempts to possess themselves of its contents; and this was -the only instance I had hitherto discovered of their being influenced -by a pilfering disposition. It might perhaps be a general opinion that -provisions were a common property.” - -From here they continued to tow the canoe up the river. Some Indian -huts seen were built of drift-wood. On the slope of the beach, and on -the inside, earth was dug away to form a level floor. Within these -huts were drying scaffolds, covered with split fish, and fires made -in different parts of the hut warmed and dried the air, and hastened -the operation of drying. The Indians, probably the Loucheux, an -Athabascan tribe, told him of the Eskimos who dressed like themselves, -wore their hair short, and had two holes perforated, one on each -side of the mouth, in line with the under lip, on which they placed -long beads--the labrets, so well known as ornaments of the primitive -Eskimos. They reported the animals of their country to be reindeer, -bears, wolverines, martens, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes--white -sheep (_Ovis dalli_)--and that the latter were only to be found in the -mountains to the westward. - -On the journey up the river the towing-line was much in use, but often, -when the wind was north, it was possible to use the sail. For six -days on this southward journey the party had not touched any of their -provision stores, but in this time, Mackenzie says, they had consumed -two reindeer, four swans, forty-five geese, and a considerable quantity -of fish. “I have always observed that the northmen possessed very -hearty appetites, but they were much exceeded by those with me since we -entered this river. I should really have thought it absolute gluttony -in my people, if my own appetite had not increased in a similar -proportion.” - -He now began to hear, from the people whom he met, of a great river to -the west of the one he was travelling on, and beyond the mountains, -perhaps the Yukon or the Fraser. But the country through which this -river ran was inhabited by strange creatures. “The Indians represented -them as being of gigantic stature and adorned with wings, which, -however, they never employed in flying; that they fed on large birds, -which they killed with the greatest ease, though common men would be -certain victims of their voracity if they ventured to approach them. -They also described the people that inhabited the mouth of the river -as possessing the extraordinary power of killing with their eyes, and -devouring a large beaver at a single meal. They added that canoes of -very large dimensions visited that place. These tales, however, they -told not of their own knowledge, but from reports of other tribes.” - -It was at this camp that Mackenzie was obliged to shoot an Indian dog, -which it was impossible to keep from interfering with his baggage, -which, of course, contained the provisions. “It was in vain that I had -remonstrated on this subject, so that I was obliged to commit the act -which is just mentioned. When these people heard the report of the -pistol, and saw the dog dead, they were seized with a very great alarm, -and the women took the children on their backs and ran into the woods. -I ordered the cause of this act of severity to be explained, with the -assurance that no injuries would be offered to themselves. The woman, -however, to whom the dog belonged was very much affected, and declared -that the loss of five children during the preceding winter had not -affected her so much as the death of this animal; but her grief was not -of very long duration, and a few beads, etc., soon assuaged her sorrow.” - -On the way up the river, August 2, small springs of mineral water were -observed, as well as lumps of iron ore, and finally a “coal mine,” -or bed of lignite, on fire. The beach was covered with coal, and the -English Chief gathered some of it to be used as a black dye, to color -porcupine quills. A little farther on the Indian hunters killed a -beaver, whose fur was now beginning to grow long. Tracks of moose and -reindeer were seen, but all of them old. Since the weather was growing -cooler the reindeer would now leave the plains to come into the woods, -for the mosquitoes were beginning to disappear. Though the river had -fallen much the current was still very strong, and the work difficult. -The weather was cold, and now their violent exercise scarcely kept -them warm. The women constantly remained in the canoes, making -moose-skin moccasins for the men, who as constantly wore them out, a -pair lasting not more than one day. - -On the 7th they saw two reindeer on the beach before them, but the -Indians, quarrelling to see which should be the first to get near -them, alarmed the deer, which ran away. However, a female reindeer was -killed, whose legs showed wounds, and it was supposed that she had -been pursued by wolves, which devoured her young one. One of the young -Indians took her udder, which was full of milk, and, squeezing it over -some boiled corn, ate the mixture with great relish. - -On the 10th, accompanied by one of his young Indians, Mackenzie -strove without success to reach the mountains which were seen on the -south-west of the river. - -For the last few days the hunters had been unsuccessful, killing only a -beaver, a few hares, and a few water-fowl, but on the 13th they reached -the island where they had hidden their pemmican on the way down, and -raising the cache, found themselves once more in plenty. A little later -they saw another camp of Indians, who, very much frightened, drew their -canoes up on the beach and fled to the woods, leaving much of their -property behind them. This was pounced upon by Mackenzie’s Indians, -and he took his interpreter severely to task for their conduct. This -brought on a more or less violent dispute, in the course of which the -English Chief declared that he would accompany Mackenzie no farther, -but would leave him and remain here. The Indian and all his relations -wept bitterly, but after a few hours Mackenzie persuaded him to -continue the journey, and propitiated him by a gift of rum. - -On the 17th and 18th of August the hunters were more successful, and on -the last day the English Chief killed a buffalo, while a few water-fowl -were brought in daily. They now found signs of a Cree encampment and -presently reached the entrance of Slave Lake. Coasting around this, -often in heavy weather, they came upon Mr. Le Roux, from the fort -there, and found that he had been somewhat successful in trading for -skins, having five packs, principally of marten. Large game seemed -abundant here, and the tracks of buffalo, moose, and reindeer were -seen. On August 30 they reached Mr. Le Roux’s house. - -Here Mackenzie’s Indians left him, on the ground that he travelled -too fast for them and that they feared they should be drowned if they -followed so reckless a sailor. Mr. Le Roux’s establishment was left on -the 31st of August, and twelve days later, after many difficulties from -storm and cold, they reached Fort Chipewyan, having concluded a voyage -which had occupied one hundred and two days. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -ALEXANDER MACKENZIE - -II - - -On October 10, 1792, Alexander Mackenzie left Fort Chipewyan to -proceed up Peace River, his purpose being to go up the stream so far -as the season would permit, and, wintering wherever he must, to cross -the mountains at its head and continue westward, if possible, to the -Pacific Ocean. - -Peace River takes its name from the settlement of their differences at -Peace Point by the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians. “When this country -was formerly invaded by the Knisteneaux they found the Beaver Indians -inhabiting the land about the Portage La Loche; and the adjoining -tribes were those whom they called Slaves. They drove both these tribes -before them, when the latter proceeded down the river from the Lake of -the Hills, in consequence of which that part of it obtained the name -of the Slave River. The former proceeded up the river, and when the -Knisteneaux made peace with them, this place was settled to be the -boundary.” - -As they proceeded, the weather was so cold and raw as to make travel -unpleasant, but on the afternoon of October 17 they reached the falls, -where there were two considerable portages, and where they found recent -fires, showing that the canoes that Mackenzie had despatched some days -before were not far ahead. - -On the 19th they reached what is termed the Old Establishment, an early -fort, and found that the people preceding them had slept there the -previous night, and had carelessly set the large house on fire. But for -Mackenzie’s arrival all the buildings would have been destroyed. On -either side of Peace River here were extensive plains, which offered -pasturage to great herds of buffalo. - -The next morning they reached the fort, and were received with shouts -of rejoicing and volleys from the guns, by the Indians, who now -expected rum and a carouse. About three hundred Indians belonged here, -who, though apparently Chipewyan by race, had adopted the manners and -customs of their former enemies, the Crees. The contrast between the -neat and decent appearance of the men and the very disagreeable looks -of the women was striking. After staying here only long enough to give -some advice and presents to the Indians and his instructions to Mr. -Findlay, he kept on up the river. It was constantly growing colder and -the ice gave some trouble, but on November 1 he reached the place where -he expected to winter. - -Two men had been sent forward in the spring to cut and square timber -for the erection of a house, and about seventy Indians had joined -them. The men had worked well, and prepared timber enough for a -considerable fort, as well as a ditch in which to set up the palisades -of a stockade. Experience at the Old Establishment had shown that many -vegetables would grow well in this soil and climate, but this was no -time to think about gardening. What was more important was the fact -that the plains on either side of the river abounded in buffalo, elk, -wolves, foxes, and bears, while a ridge of highlands or mountains to -the westward was inhabited by great numbers of deer, being called Deer -Mountain. - -As with all traders, Mackenzie’s first business was to call the Indians -together and give them some rum, tobacco, and advice. They listened to -the advice, drank the rum, and smoked the tobacco, promising everything -that he asked. - -On the 22d of November--although the side-head giving the date in the -printed volume says December--the river froze up, so that the hunters -had a bridge on which to cross. Game was plenty, yet but for this means -of crossing the stream they might have suffered from lack of food. It -was here the practice of medicine was forced on Mackenzie. By means of -simple remedies and by close personal attention to each case he cured a -number of severe ailments among the Indians. - -Of one of these he says: “On my arrival here last fall, I found that -one of the young Indians had lost the use of his right hand by the -bursting of a gun, and that his thumb had been maimed in such a manner -as to hang only by a small strip of flesh. Indeed, when he was brought -to me his wound was in such an offensive state and emitted such a -putrid smell that it required all the resolution I possessed to examine -it. His friends had done everything in their power to relieve him, -but as it consisted only in singing about him and blowing upon his -hand, the wound, as may be well imagined, had got into the deplorable -state in which I found it. I was rather alarmed at the difficulty of -the case, but as the young man’s life was in a state of hazard, I was -determined to risk my surgical reputation, and accordingly took him -under my care. I immediately formed a poultice of bark, stripped from -the roots of the spruce fir, which I applied to the wound, having -first washed it with the juice of the bark. This proved a very painful -dressing. In a few days, however, the wound was clean and the proud -flesh around it destroyed. I wished very much in this state of the -business to have separated the thumb from the hand, which I well knew -must be effected before the cure could be performed, but he would not -consent to that operation till, by the application of vitriol, the -flesh by which the thumb was suspended was shrivelled almost to a -thread. When I had succeeded in this object I perceived that the wound -was closing rather faster than I had desired. The salve I applied on -the occasion was made of the Canadian balsam, wax, and tallow dropped -from a burning candle into water. In short, I was so successful that -about Christmas my patient engaged in an hunting party, and brought -me the tongue of an elk; nor was he finally ungrateful. When he left -me I received the warmest acknowledgments, both from himself and the -relations with whom he departed, for my care of him. I certainly did -not spare my time or attention on the occasion, as I regularly dressed -the wound three times a day during the course of a month.” - -Just before Christmas, Mackenzie moved from his tent into his house, -and now began the erection of houses for the men. Long before this the -thermometer had been down far below zero, yet the men had been lying -out in the cold and snow without any shelter except an open shed. “It -would be considered by the inhabitants of a milder climate as a great -evil to be exposed to the weather at this rigorous season of the year, -but these people are inured to it, and it is necessary to describe in -some measure the hardships which they undergo without a murmur, in -order to convey a general notion of them. - -“The men who were now with me left this place in the beginning of -last May and went to the Rainy Lake in canoes, laden with packs of -fur, which, from the immense length of the voyage and other occurring -circumstances, is a most severe trial of patience and perseverance; -there they do not remain a sufficient time for ordinary repose, when -they take a load of goods in exchange, and proceed on their return, in -a great measure, day and night. They had been arrived near two months, -and all that time had been continually engaged in very toilsome labor, -with nothing more than a common shed to protect them from the frost and -snow. Such is the life which these people lead, and is continued with -unremitting exertion till their strength is lost in premature old age.” - -Mackenzie was now receiving plenty of beaver from the Indians. But, on -the other hand, he was not without the usual annoyances to which the -fur trader was exposed. The Indians showed a tendency to quarrel among -themselves, especially over their gambling at the platter game, which -is a sort of throwing of dice, the same, apparently, as the seed game, -so common among all the Indians of the plains. On the whole, however, -the winter passed quietly, and geese were seen on the 13th of March. - -In closing his account of this winter, passed high up on Peace River, -Mackenzie gives some account of the Beaver and Rock Mountain Indians -living there, who, he says, did not exceed 150 men capable of bearing -arms. As late as 1786, when the first traders from Canada arrived on -the banks of the Peace River, the natives employed bows and snares, -but since then they had become well armed, bows were little used, and -snares were unknown. These Indians were excellent hunters and such hard -workers in the field that they were extremely lean, being always in -the best of training. When a relation died the men blackened the face, -cut off their hair, and gashed their arms with knives and arrows. The -women often cut off a finger at the death of a favorite son, husband, -or father. The Indians told of a time when no timber grew on the hills -and plains along Peace River, but they were covered with moss, and the -reindeer was the only animal. As the timber spread on them, elk and -buffalo made their appearance, and the reindeer retired to the range of -highlands called Deer Mountain. - -The month of April passed, and early in May Mackenzie loaded six canoes -with the furs and provisions he had purchased, and despatched them -to Fort Chipewyan. He, however, retained six of the men, who agreed -to accompany him up Peace River on his western voyage of discovery, -and left his winter interpreter and another person in charge of the -fort, to supply the natives with their ammunition during the summer. -On the 9th day of May he embarked in a canoe twenty-five feet long, -loaded with about 3,000 pounds of provisions, goods for presents, arms, -ammunition, and baggage, and ten persons, two of whom were hunters and -interpreters. - -The first day’s journey was through an interesting and beautiful -country. “From the place which we quitted this morning the west side of -the river displayed a succession of the most beautiful scenery I had -ever beheld. The ground rises at intervals to a considerable height -and stretches inward to a considerable distance; at every interval -or pause in the rise there is a very gently ascending space or lawn, -which is alternate with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole, -or, at least, as far as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent -theatre of nature has all the decorations which the trees and animals -of the country can afford it; groves of poplars in every shape vary the -scene, and their intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks and -buffaloes, the former choosing the steeps and uplands, and the latter -preferring the plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended with -their young ones, who were frisking about them; and it appeared that -the elks would soon exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. The whole -country displayed an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a blossom -were advancing fast to that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind -of their branches reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting -sun, added a splendid gaiety to the scene, which no expressions of -mine are qualified to describe. The east side of the river consists -of a range of high land covered with the white spruce and the soft -birch, while the banks abound with the alder and the willow. The water -continued to rise, and the current being proportionately strong, we -made a greater use of setting poles than paddles.” - -On the following days camps of Beaver Indians were seen, and Mackenzie -was somewhat anxious lest they should encourage his hunters to desert, -but this did not take place. Game continued abundant, and on the 13th -they saw along the river tracks of large bears, some of which were nine -inches wide. “We saw one of their dens, or winter quarters, called -watee, in an island, which was ten feet deep, five feet high, and six -feet wide, but we had not yet seen one of those animals. The Indians -entertain great apprehension of this kind of bear which is called the -grisly bear, and they never venture to attack it but in a party of at -least three or four.” - -The land on both sides of the river was high and irregular, and the -banks and the rocky cliffs exhibited strata of red, green, and yellow -colors. “Some parts, indeed, offer a beautiful scenery, in some degrees -similar to that which we passed on the second day of our voyage, and -equally enlivened with the elk and the buffalo, who were feeding in -great numbers and unmolested by the hunter.” The next day they passed -a river, of the mouth of which Mackenzie says: “This spot would be -an excellent situation for a fort or factory, as there is plenty of -wood and every reason to believe that the country abounds in beaver. -As for the other animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every -direction the elk and the buffalo are seen in possession of the hills -and the plains.” Two elks were killed and a buffalo wounded that day. -The land above their camp spread out in an extensive plain, gradually -rising to a high ridge, chiefly grassy, and dotted with poplar and -white birch trees. “The country is so crowded with animals as to have -the appearance, in some places, of a stall-yard, from the state of the -ground and the quantity of dung which is scattered over it. The soil is -black and light. We this day saw two grisly and hideous bears.” - -Although the ascent of the river had not been easy and they had -frequently been obliged to unload and repair their canoe, it was not -until Sunday, the 19th, that they met rapids and cascades, which -presented greater difficulties. The canoe was heavily laden, the -current enormously swift, and broken constantly by rocks and shoals; -the only means of advance was by the tow-line, and the beach was -often narrow or wanting. At the beginning of this very difficult -stretch of water they found several islands of solid rock with but -little soil upon them, the rock worn away near the water’s surface, -but unworn higher up, so that the islands presented, as it were, so -many large tables, each of which was supported by a pedestal of a more -circumscribed projection. On these islands geese were breeding. - -Carrying over short distances, often crossing the river in a very swift -water, in constant danger from the great stones which frequently fell -from the banks above, and much of the time in the water, they pursued -their way for a short distance over this very difficult passage. The -work was terribly hard, and as far as they could see up the river there -was no improvement of the channel. Therefore, Mackenzie sent out a -party of six men to explore, and on their return that same night they -reported that it was necessary to make a long carry--nine miles they -said--before smooth water would be met with. The canoe was therefore -unloaded, the baggage carried up to the top of the bank above the -river, and then the canoe was fairly hauled up to the same height. -There they camped. In two days’ march from this place, carrying the -load and the canoe, they again met quiet water. - -The journal for Thursday, the 23d, enumerates the different sorts -of trees which they saw, among which is named bois-picant, a tree -which Mackenzie had not seen before, but which was apparently the -west-coast shrub--the devil’s club, which grows in a few places on the -eastern slope of the Continental Divide. Although he did not know it, -Mackenzie was now quite close to the summit of the Rocky Mountains. - -The river here was wide, flowing in great volume, and very swiftly -but smooth. There were many animals in the country, for their tracks -were seen everywhere; and when Mackenzie left a bundle of presents on -a pole, as a good-will offering to any natives who might pass by, one -of his Indians added to the bundle a small, round piece of green wood, -chewed at one end to form a brush, such as the Indians use to pick out -the marrow from bones. This was the sign of a country with many animals -in it. At a number of points along the river they had found places -where wood had been chopped with axes, showing that the Indians who had -passed along here had had intercourse with the whites. - -They were now flanked on both sides by high mountains covered with -snow, and the cold was so severe that the men, although working hard, -could not get along without their blanket coats. On the last day of May -the men were so cold that they landed in order to kindle a fire. - -Their great labor, so long continued, had made Mackenzie’s people more -or less discontented. They were tired of the journey and anxious to get -back. Moreover, some wanted to go in one direction and some in another, -and the forking of the river gave rise to open grumbling. However, -Mackenzie handled them well, and they went on. On the 1st of June he -says: “In no part of the Northwest did I see so much beaver-work within -an equal distance as in the course of this day. In some places they -had cut down several acres of large poplars; and we saw also a great -number of these active and sagacious animals. The time which these -wonderful creatures allot for their labors, whether in erecting their -curious habitations or providing food, is the whole of the interval -between the setting and the rising sun.” - -Ever since they had started the water in the river had been rising, -since, of course, the advancing summer was melting the snows in the -neighboring mountains and swelling all the streams. On the 5th of June -Mackenzie left the canoe and ascending a high hill or mountain crossed -the country, and climbing a tree looked ahead. He saw little that was -interesting, and on returning to the river could see nothing of the -canoe. Made anxious by this, he went forward to see if it was ahead, -sending others of his people back to look for it. He had no food, and -was preparing to lie out during the night when a shot from Mr. Mackay -and the Indian who had been sent back announced that the canoe had been -discovered. His people excused their slow progress by saying that their -canoe had been damaged and that the travel had been harder than on any -previous day, and Mackenzie pretended to believe them. The difficulties -of the way were indeed great. The current was so strong that paddles -could not be used, so deep that the poles were useless, while the bank -of the river was so lined with willows and other trees that it was -impossible to pass the line. The water was still rising and the current -growing stronger. In spite of all these impediments they pushed on, -and were already beginning to look for the carrying-place, where they -should cross the mountains to the stream which ran toward the Pacific. - -On Sunday, June 9, they noticed a small fire, and in a short time heard -people in the timber, as if in a state of confusion. The Indians were -frightened by the discovery of the explorer’s party, and the explorer’s -party were not a little alarmed for fear they should be attacked. Very -judiciously Mackenzie turned his canoe off to the opposite side of -the river, and before they were half-way across two men appeared on -the rising ground opposite them, brandishing their spears, displaying -bows and arrows, and shouting. The interpreter called to the Indians, -telling them that the white people were friendly, yet the Indians -preserved a threatening attitude, but after some talk consented to the -landing of the party, though evidently very much frightened. They laid -aside their weapons, and when Mackenzie stepped forward and shook hands -with each of them, one of them, trembling with fear, drew his knife -from his sleeve and offered it to Mackenzie as a mark of submission. - -These Indians had heard of white men before, but had never seen any, -and were extremely curious as well as suspicious. They had but just -reached here and had not yet made their camp, but on the discovery of -Mackenzie’s party had run away, leaving their property behind. - -The explorer made a great effort to conciliate and to attach them to -him, and during the day the whole party of Indians came in, three men, -three women, and seven or eight boys and girls. They were delighted -with the beads which were given them, and seemed to enjoy the pemmican, -their own provision consisting entirely of dried fish. They possessed -some iron, which they said they obtained from people distant about -eleven days’ march, and that those people travelled for a month to -reach the country of other tribes, who lived in houses and who extended -their journeys to the Stinking Lake, or the ocean, where they traded -with white people, who came in boats as large as islands. - -This account discouraged Mackenzie, who feared that the end of his -journey was far distant. However, he continued his efforts to lull the -suspicions of the Indians, and treated them and their children with -especial kindness. The next day, sitting about the fire and listening -to the talk of the Indians and interpreters, some portion of which -he could understand, he recognized that one of the Indians spoke of -a great river flowing near the source of the one which they were -ascending, and of portages leading to a small river, which discharged -into the great river; and a little patient work led the Indian to -describe what seemed a practicable route toward the ocean. - -These Indians were of low stature, not exceeding five feet six or -seven inches, lean, round-faced, with pierced noses and loose-hanging -hair. They wore robes of the skins of the beaver, the ground-hog, or -the reindeer, dressed with the hair on. Their leggings and moccasins -were of dressed moose, elk, or reindeer skin. They wore collars of -grizzly-bear claws. Their cedar bows were six feet in length, and -bore a short iron spike on one end, and so might be used as a spear -or lance. They also carried lances headed with iron or bone. Their -knives and axes were of iron. They made lines of rawhide, which were -fine and strong, while their nets and fishing-lines were of willow -bark and nettles. Their hooks were of bone set in wood, their kettles -of basketry, their spoons of horn or wood. Their canoes were made of -spruce bark. Among certain presents given Mackenzie before he parted -from these people were a net made of nettles and “a white horn in -the shape of a spoon, which resembles the horn of the buffalo of the -Coppermine River”--by which undoubtedly is meant the musk-ox--“but -their description of the animal to which it belonged does not answer to -that.” This horn was probably that of a mountain sheep. - -With a guide engaged from these people Mackenzie pushed on, promising -the Indians that he would return in two months. The journey up the -river was difficult, and the canoe by this time was in bad shape, so -that a little jar caused it to leak, and repairs were frequent. At -length they left the main stream, by the instruction of the guide, who -declared that it began only a short distance away, having its origin in -a great valley which was full of snow, the melting of which supplied -the river. The branch which they went up was only about ten yards -broad and the one they now entered still narrower. The current was -slow, and the channel so crooked that it was sometimes difficult to -work the canoe. Soon they entered a small lake choked with drift-wood, -and camped at an old Indian camp. Beaver were abundant here, as were -swans and geese, but they killed none of them, for fear of alarming any -natives by the discharge of fire-arms. This Mackenzie regarded as the -highest source of the Peace River. - -At the head of the lake they found a carry where there was a beaten -path, about eight hundred yards long, to another small lake. From -here two streams were seen tumbling down the rocks from the right and -emptying into the lake that they had left, while two others, falling -from the opposite side, poured into the lake they were approaching. -Now they had crossed the Continental Divide, and instead of fighting -with the current they would be going down the stream. We may imagine -something of what Mackenzie’s feelings must have been when he had -surmounted the Divide and saw before him a direct passage to the -western ocean. But his troubles were by no means over. - -From the lake they passed into a small river, full of wood which had -slipped down the mountain side, and which constantly obstructed the -way. At first there was scarcely water enough to float the canoe, but -the water grew deeper, and toward evening they entered another lake. -Its outlet was very swift, and they had difficulty in keeping the canoe -from being driven against the trees which had fallen across it. - -Men sent ahead down the river to report on its practicability came back -with terrible stories of rapids, fallen trees, and large stones. The -guide was now very uncomfortable, and wished to return, but this, of -course, was not permitted. - -[Illustration: MACKENZIE AND THE MEN JUMPED OVERBOARD.] - -After carrying around the nearest obstacles they pushed off again, but -the force of the current was so great as to drive the canoe sideways -down the river again and break her. Mackenzie and the men jumped -overboard, but before they could straighten her course or stop her -they came to deeper water, and were obliged to re-embark, one man -being left behind in the river. Almost immediately they drove against -a rock, which shattered the stern of the canoe, and now the vessel -darted to the other side of the river and the bow was smashed as well -as the stern. The foreman tried to check her by holding to branches of -a tree, but was pulled out of the canoe and ashore. A moment later she -struck some rocks, which broke several large holes in the bottom, and -in a moment every one was overboard trying to hold up the wreck. The -strength of the current, however, forced them down the stream several -hundred yards, but at last the vessel was guided into shallow water, -and an eddy, and there stopped and dragged to shore. In a short time -the man that they had left behind joined them, and they were now able -to see what their condition was. They had lost some of their baggage -and the whole of their stock of balls, but they still had some lead -in the form of shot, from which bullets might be made. The men were -frightened and anxious to get back, but a liberal dose of rum with a -hearty meal and some encouraging words from their leader quieted -their fears, and made them willing to go on. Men were sent off to look -for bark with which to repair the canoe and also to look for the main -river, which their guide told them was not far distant. These men came -back with unsatisfactory reports, declaring that the river they were -following was quite impracticable, while they had not been able to see -the other larger river. - -The next day the canoe, having been repaired, was lightened and a part -of the men took her slowly down the river, while the remainder carried -the baggage along the shore. It was evident that this stream could not -be followed much farther, and again exploring parties were sent out to -see if the great river could not be found. They saw it, but declared -that to reach it would be very difficult. That night Mackenzie, as -usual, sat up to watch the guide, so that he should not desert, but Mr. -Mackay, who relieved him, permitted the man to slip away, and he was -not seen again. The river that they were descending became more and -more swift and rough, and was, in fact, wholly impracticable. It was -now determined to cut a way for the canoe across a neck of the land, -and at eight o’clock that night they had the inexpressible satisfaction -of finding themselves “on the bank of a navigable river on the western -side of the first great range of mountains.” - -Rain the next morning postponed their start until eight o’clock, when -they were on the water and driven by a strong current, which, though -it carried them along swiftly, was perfectly safe, since the river -seemed deep. The stream was constantly joined by other rivers, and -after a time it broadened out and the current became slow, so that -they proceeded with more deliberation. An Indian cabin of recent -construction was seen on the shore, and toward night a smoke on the -bank indicated natives. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -ALEXANDER MACKENZIE - -III - - -The next day the forests seemed to be on fire, since clouds of thick -smoke rose from the wood with a strong odor of burning resin. On the -afternoon of June 19 they saw smoke on the shore, but before they -could reach land the natives had deserted their camp. Mackenzie sent -his Indians after them, but they were threatening and discharged five -arrows which, however, did no harm. They had left some property behind -them which the men desired to take with them. A few things were taken -and some useful implements were left in exchange. The next morning -they were off early in a fog, and saw two “red deer” at the edge of -the water. Another was seen and might have been killed, but for the -dog which frightened it. These, Mackenzie says, are “not so large as -the elk of the Peace River, but are the real red deer, which I never -saw in the north, though I have been told that they are to be found in -great numbers in the plains.” Here the natives had stripped the bark -from many of the spruce-trees, presumably to roof their cabins. A -house was seen thirty feet long and twenty wide, evidently intended for -occupation by more than one family. - -The constant accidents to which their canoe had been subjected, and -the carrying it from place to place, had so racked and broken it that -it seemed almost hopeless to go farther in it. On Friday, the 22d, -Mackenzie, recognizing the possibility that on his return he might have -nothing to eat, made a cache of ninety pounds of pemmican in a deep -hole, over which a fire was built. - -The next day, as they went on, they saw a small canoe drawn up to the -edge of the woods, and soon after another came out from a small river. -The man who was in it called to his friends, who at once appeared -on the bank, armed with bows, arrows and spears. Although they were -evidently much alarmed, they were very threatening in their gestures, -and let fly a volley of arrows, which did no harm. Mackenzie landed on -the other side of the river and stopped there, his interpreters trying -to pacify the Indians, but without success. Two men went off in a canoe -down the river, apparently to procure assistance. Mackenzie, now having -taken the precaution to send one of his Indians with a gun into the -woods to keep within easy reach of them and to shoot any one who might -attack him, walked along the beach and invited the Indians to come over -and see him, while his interpreter declared to them that these people -were his friends. At length two natives came over in a canoe, but -stopped a hundred yards from the shore. Mackenzie signalled to them to -come to land, showing them various articles which might be attractive, -such as looking-glasses, beads, and other things. Very slowly they -drew nearer to the shore, but at first would not venture to land. At -last they came near enough to get some beads, and were persuaded to -come ashore and to sit down. It was found that his interpreters could -talk with these people, but though Mackenzie tried to persuade them to -come to his canoe they did not wish to, and asked his permission to go -back to their own side of the river. This he granted, and their return -to their friends was evidently a matter of great rejoicing, while the -articles that they took back with them were examined with the greatest -curiosity. After a little time the white men were asked to come over -to their side, which they did. The Indians were still timid, but the -distribution of a few trinkets among them and a little sugar to the -children seemed to strengthen their confidence. - -These people reported that the river ran to the south and that at its -mouth white people were said to be building houses. There were rapids -and falls and also very terrible people along the shores; people who -lived in underground houses, and who might do them great harm. The -night was spent here. - -Still travelling in his crazy canoe, Mackenzie kept on. Before long he -came to a camp, the Indians of which, as usual, threatened, but the new -friends made the day before soon set their fears at rest. Among the -Indians here was a Rocky Mountain captive, taken by the Crees, who had -carried her across the mountains, but she had escaped from them, and in -the effort to return to her own people had been captured by the tribe -with whom she was now living. As he saw more and more of these natives -he found not a few people from the Rocky Mountains with whom his own -hunters could perfectly well converse, and under these circumstances he -did everything in his power to learn about the course of the river down -which he was passing. There was evidently a considerable trade between -the coast and the upper country, for iron, brass, copper, and beads -were had from the west. - -Mackenzie now had remaining about thirty days’ provisions, and not more -than one hundred and fifty balls, with about thirty pounds of shot, -which also might be used for balls, though with considerable waste. He -was somewhat doubtful what to do, not only on account of the shortness -of his supplies, but because of the great length of time that it would -take him to journey to the sea and return. If he went to the coast -by this river it would seem impossible to reach Athabaska the same -season. He now called a council and asked the advice of his people, -saying that he wished to try to reach the ocean overland, because he -thought it would be a saving of time, but declared that he would not -attempt to do this, but would go by water unless they would agree that -if the land journey proved impracticable they would return with him -and continue the voyage to the discharge of the waters, whatever the -distance might be. The men were most loyal, and all declared that they -would follow him wherever he should go. He now set out to go back up -the river to that point which should seem nearest to the seashore. -Their guide preferred to travel on the shore, and although Mackenzie -did not greatly like this, he thought it unwise to oppose him. The next -day, as some of the men were walking along the shore with the guide, -they met some Indians who threatened them. The guide ran away, and -Mackenzie’s people kept with him. Finally the guide escaped from them -and the people returned to their leader. Every one was now greatly -alarmed, no one understanding what had happened, nor why the Indians -were frightened, or enraged, whichever it might be. Mackenzie’s people -were absolutely panic-stricken, and it was all he could do to hold -them together. They selected a position calculated for defence and -distributed arms and ammunition. - -Now followed a time of great anxiety. A young woman came to the camp, -but they could secure no information from her. That night an old blind -man was captured, returning to the house, having been driven from his -hiding-place in the woods by hunger. He was fed and well treated and -soon gained confidence. Occasionally an Indian was seen on the river -in a canoe, but none of them would approach nor reply to any calls. At -length, Mackenzie decided to leave this place and to continue up the -river. The canoe was absolutely unfit for service, and one man was kept -bailing all the time, to keep her afloat. On the 27th they stopped at -an island where there seemed to be on the mainland trees which would -furnish the proper material for a new canoe, and here they stopped and -built one. Here, too, their guide, who had deserted them at the time of -the panic, returned, claiming great credit for keeping the promise that -he had earlier made to them. On the 1st of July, however, he left them -again, with his companions, and went up the river. The old man they -still had with them, but he was anxious to get away. The canoe having -been completed and proving serviceable, they started up the river from -this island, which they had named Canoe Island. It now seemed necessary -to reduce the rations, again cutting the people down to two meals a -day, which they did not at all like. Their food now consisted chiefly -of the dried roes of fish, boiled with a little flour and grain, so -as to make a substantial and not unpleasant dish. At Canoe Island -flies had been very troublesome, so that Mackenzie says, “During our -stay there we had been most cruelly tormented by flies, particularly -by sand-flies, which I am disposed to consider as the most tormenting -insect of its kind in nature.” - -The way up the river was difficult, often impracticable for paddles, -and it was hard to use a tow-line on account of the steepness of the -banks. On July 3 they reached a point which answered to the description -of the place where they should leave the stream to go overland to the -west, and here a river came in, which Mackenzie calls West Road River. -Some of the men thought it would be better to keep on up the stream a -little farther, in the hope of finding an easier crossing, although -at this point there was a beaten trail. They proceeded, therefore, -and before long met their guide, who apparently had twice deserted. He -was accompanied by some other Indians, called Nascud Denee, who were -friendly, and who declared that from their village, a little farther up -the stream, the road to the sea was short. - -On reaching the place where they were to leave the river, Mackenzie -cached some pemmican, wild rice, Indian corn, powder, and trade goods, -and also took the canoe out of the water, placed it bottom up on a -platform and protected it as well as possible. They now started on -their foot journey, carrying about four hundred pounds of pemmican, the -instruments, some goods, and their arms and ammunition. - -The journey westward was slow and difficult. They met many people, -all of whom were friendly, and when their guide left them, as he did -in a day or two, they succeeded in procuring other guides for short -distances from the various villages that they passed, and went forward -with comparatively little difficulty, although the almost continuous -rain was unpleasant enough. The people whom they met as they proceeded -showed more and more evidences of intercourse with the whites, having -a number of articles obtained by trade. Most of these people seemed -to belong to different small tribes of Athabaskan stock. They seemed -less and less surprised at the appearance of the white men and, while -still more or less astonished at their fire-arms, did not appear to be -frightened by the explosions. Game was so scarce that practically none -was killed, their provisions being largely fish, obtained from the -natives or caught by themselves. The killing one day of two eagles and -three gray partridges is important enough to be mentioned. - -Mackenzie describes in considerable detail some of the houses of the -Indians which he passed. He notes also, on July 14, that he had reached -a place where it is the practice of the Indians to burn the bodies of -their dead. On the 15th they fell in with a village of particularly -clean and attractive people, who were on their way to the sea with -articles for trade with the white people. They said that in view of the -fact that the women and children with them could not travel fast it -would be three days before they could reach the end of their journey. -This was welcome news to the explorer. - -Before they had gone very far, however, these people changed their -minds, and determined to go to the sea by a different and somewhat -longer route, and so the white men separated from them, having procured -guides from four new Indians, who had just joined the party and -belonged to a tribe Mackenzie had not yet seen. - -The way was difficult, full of swamps and fallen timber. Ground-hogs -were seen, and a number of them captured, and before long a deer was -killed. They were now high up in the mountains, and were marching -through the snow. The country became very rough and they travelled -along precipices, while snow-covered peaks frowned on them from above. -On these mountains, according to their guides, were many animals, -which, “from their description, must be wild goats.” The timber grew -very large. - -On this day their guide hurried ahead, leaving the laden white people -to follow, and when it grew dark the men were anxious to stop for the -night, but Mackenzie pushed on, and at last reached a village where he -saw fires with people cooking over them. He entered a house and shook -hands, and the people directed him to go to a large house, where he was -cordially received and fed with roasted salmon. A little later they -were regaled on salmon roes, pounded fine, beaten up and flavored with -something bitter, which we may conjecture to have been soap ollalie. -The natives here were capturing salmon with their dip nets and by -weirs. They were kindly and hospitable, and had very strong beliefs and -feelings with regard to their fish. Mackenzie declared that they never -taste flesh, and that one of their dogs having swallowed part of a bone -left at the camp-fire was beaten by his master till he disgorged it. A -bone having been thrown into the river by one of Mackenzie’s people, -a young man dived, brought it up and put it in the fire, and then -proceeded to wash his polluted hands. The chief of the tribe declined -to let the white men have a canoe because they had with them some deer -meat, which, if put in the canoe on their river, would cause the fish -to leave the river, so that the people must starve. Mackenzie asked -what he should do with the meat, and the Indian told him to give it to -a native present who belonged to a tribe of flesh eaters. The canoe was -then loaned them. - -These people seemed to belong to a different family from the -Chipewyans; at least Mackenzie says their language appeared to have no -resemblance to that of the Atnahs. Seven natives with two canoes took -the explorers and their baggage down the river. They travelled fast, -and the skill of the Indians greatly impressed Mackenzie, who says: “I -had imagined that the Canadians who accompanied me were the most expert -canoemen in the world, but they are very inferior to these people, as -they themselves acknowledge, in conducting those vessels.” - -Just above a village the whole party landed, the Indians preceding the -white men to announce their approach. When they reached the village -they found it in a turmoil, the natives armed and rushing about -apparently in a great state of alarm. There was nothing to do except -to face the music, and Mackenzie walked boldly forward into the midst -of the village, when most of the people laid aside their arms and came -forward to meet them. He shook hands with those nearest to him, when -suddenly an elderly man broke through the crowd and embraced him, as -did also a younger man, the chief’s son. Another son of the old chief -approached, and as Mackenzie stepped forward to shake hands with him -the younger fellow broke the string of a handsome robe of sea-otter -skin which he had on and put it over Mackenzie’s shoulders. The chief -took Mackenzie to his house, and treated him in a most hospitable -manner. He was offered a dish made of the dried inner bark of the -hemlock tree, soaked in fresh salmon oil. Food was plenty here, for -the salmon run was at its height. Fish were drying on lines strung all -about the village. These people were also very careful that nothing -should be done to alarm their fish. They objected to water being -taken from the river in an iron kettle, on the ground that the salmon -disliked the smell of iron. Wooden boxes for holding water were given -the explorers, however. Here were seen panels made of thick cedar -boards, neatly joined and painted with hieroglyphics and figures of -different animals, such as are commonly seen on the coast. - -Here Mackenzie was obliged to do some doctoring, and he describes the -methods of the native physicians in treating their patients. - -Mackenzie had several times asked the chief for canoes to take the -party to the sea, but his requests had received little attention. -When, however, he tried to take an observation the chief objected, -not, apparently, because the natives were afraid of the instruments, -but because their use might frighten the salmon from that part of -the river. Just as they were about to embark in the large canoe, -forty-five feet long, four feet wide, and three and a half feet in -depth, it was discovered that an axe was missing, and there was a short -halt. Mackenzie’s resolution procured the return of the axe, and they -went on. Villages were seen along the river, and once or twice they -stopped. The people they passed seemed to have more and more articles -of European manufacture, and they treated Mackenzie very well. On the -evening of this day, at a village where they stopped, Mackenzie says, -“I could perceive, personally, the termination of the river and its -discharge into an arm of the sea.” - -The Indians now seemed unwilling to go farther, but two of them were -persuaded to keep on, and, taking another canoe, about eight o’clock on -Saturday, July 20, they left the river and reached an arm of the sea. -The tide was out, and the large mud flats, seaweed covered, were bare. -Gulls, eagles, and ducks were seen. The weather was boisterous, and -before long they put ashore in a cove for the night. One of the young -natives here deserted, but, being pursued, was brought back. Since -they had left the river porpoises and sea-otter--or seals--had been -continually in sight. Fresh water was had from streams running down -the mountains, and just after dark the young chief from up the river -came into camp with a large porcupine, which was eagerly devoured by -the half-starved men. The next day they came across three canoes with -fifteen people, one of whom seemed to have had some trouble with white -men not long before. The people they now met were somewhat annoying, -for they begged, pilfered, and seemed to wish to see everything that -the white men possessed. They constantly spoke of a white man named -Macubah, very likely meaning Vancouver, and for the negative distinctly -answered “No, no.” - -On the face of a rock at this point Mackenzie inscribed, with -vermilion, a brief note, “Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, -the 22d July, 1793.” Here also he was able to establish his position -with some exactness, and this done he started to return. At a village -near the mouth of the river a number of people rushed toward Mackenzie, -apparently about to attack him, and it seemed that these were the ones -who had been fired on by the white people not long before. Mackenzie -stood ready with his gun, and the Indians, seeing his attitude, dropped -their knives. There was something of a scuffle, though Mackenzie was -uninjured, and the Indians made off with his hat and cloak. After -a little while, the young chief returning, explained that the men -belonging to the canoes which had met them below in an inlet, had -declared that the white people had killed four of their party. An -explanation that this statement was false brought about a hollow truce, -but relations were still somewhat strained. The Indians brought them -food, however, and gave them setting poles, all of which were paid for. - -Mackenzie’s people were very much frightened, and were determined -to leave the canoe and to start on foot over the mountains. So firm -was this resolution that they threw everything that they had, except -their blankets, into the river. Mackenzie, however, with his usual -patience and resolution, set to work to guide them in the right way, -and declaring that, now he had accomplished his object, he had no other -object but the common safety, that he wished to return in the easiest -and safest way, and that one of their party was sick and could not -travel, and that they must stay with him. The result of this was that -his people agreed that they would continue to follow him; but several -of them declared that they would not again enter the canoe, of which -they were much afraid. Five men, therefore, including Mackenzie and the -sick Indian, entered the canoe, and made their slow way up the river. -When they came in sight of a house they saw the young Indian, who had -left them a day or two before, coming toward them with six people in a -canoe. This encouraged them, as showing that the natives who had been -spreading here reports about them had not been listened to. At this -village they were treated well. At the main village above, the old -chief received them as cordially as before, and fed them on fish and -berries. - -Farther up the river it appeared that a sick man, to whom Mackenzie -had given some simple remedy, had died, and it was feared that the -death might have been attributed to this remedy. Above this point they -again took to the trail. They were very suspicious of the Indians, as -the Indians were of them, and were constantly alarmed; and a panic in -one party was succeeded by a panic in the other. At other villages -they were kindly received, and various presents were given them, and -Mackenzie devotes many pages to a description of the habits of these -people. When they left the friendly village each man carried about -twenty pounds of fish, and they also had a little flour and some -pemmican. The sick Indian was slightly better, but could not travel -fast, and in crossing rapids or difficult streams Mackenzie carried him -on his back. - -It was now the last of July, the weather was warmer, the grass green, -and the wild fruits ripe. High up on the mountains, though, the snow -still clung, and the frost was hard. They were now marching fast, and -as they went along they recovered from time to time the provisions -that they had hid on their westward journey. On the 4th of August they -reached the place where they had left their canoe, and found all their -property in good order. There was not a footprint near their cache. -The Indians whom they met near at hand were frightened at first, but -soon became friendly. Notwithstanding the fact that they had left the -property of the explorer absolutely untouched, they took away from -the camp a variety of small articles, which Mackenzie recovered by -informing them that the salmon, which was their favorite food and -necessary to their existence, came from the sea which belonged to the -white men, and that since at the entrance of the river it was possible -to prevent those fish from coming up it, the white man possessed the -power to starve the Indians and their children. “To avert our anger, -therefore, they must return all the articles which had been stolen from -us. This finesse succeeded.” - -On the 6th of August, they embarked in their canoe on their return -journey. The stream was full of salmon, and the work of pushing up the -river was slow and difficult, but they were on the march toward home. -Rains were frequent, but not long continued. On the 15th they reached -the place where the canoe had been wrecked on the 13th of June, and -made unsuccessful search for the bag of balls then lost. The following -day they came to the Continental Divide, and it was here that Mackenzie -had the thought of transferring some living salmon from the head of the -Columbia to that of the Peace River. But, like most of his men, he was -now in pretty bad condition from privation, excessive labor and cold, -and he was unable to carry out the desire. On the 17th they carried -across from the little lake to Peace River, and started down that -stream. The passage was swift, and on the 18th they went down in one -day what it had taken them seven to come up. - -They were now again reduced to a short allowance of food, and Mr. -Mackay and the Indians were sent ahead to try and kill something, while -the remainder of the party began to repair the canoe and to carry the -baggage around the rapid, which, on their ascent, they had called Rocky -Mountain Portage. About sunset Mr. Mackay returned with the flesh of -a buffalo, and we may imagine the sensations of these northmen when -they again put their teeth into this familiar food. The journey down -the river continued swift, and they were careful to land at the head -of each rapids and inspect it, but the canoe being light they passed -over most places without difficulty. The hunters killed fat meat, and -Mackenzie gives an idea of the appetites by saying that, in three -meals, ten people and a dog ate up an elk. - -On the 23d they were passing through a beautiful country full of -buffalo, and on this day they killed a buffalo and a bear. On the 24th -of August they rounded a point and came in view of the fort. “We threw -out our flag and accompanied it with a general discharge of fire-arms, -while the men were in such spirits, and made such an active use of -their paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we left here in -the spring could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we landed at -four in the afternoon at the place which we left on the 9th of May. -Here my voyages of discovery terminate. Their toils and their dangers, -their solicitudes and sufferings have not been exaggerated in my -descriptions.... I received, however, the reward of my labors, for they -were crowned with success.” - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -LEWIS AND CLARK - -I - - -Most famous of all the pathfinders of the United States are Lewis -and Clark, explorers of the Missouri River to its headwaters, and of -the Columbia from the heads of some of its chief tributaries to the -Pacific; and thus the spanners of the continent. They were not, it -is true, the first to traverse the wilderness which lay between the -Atlantic and the Pacific, but of those who bore the name American they -were the first. - -In 1803 Louisiana was ceded by France to the United States for the sum -of about fifteen millions of dollars; but its boundaries were entirely -uncertain, and neither the nation which sold nor that which bought knew -what this territory included, how far it extended north or south or -west, nor who nor what were its inhabitants. It was certain that there -were a few French, Spaniards, and Creoles, besides some Americans, -English, and Germans, and the slaves which they possessed. Little was -known of the country, save for a short distance beyond the Mississippi -River; and it was obviously important to the new owners of the land to -find out at once what the purchase meant to the United States. - -One thing seemed certain: the population of the United States, which -had already spread far beyond the Allegheny Mountains, was constantly -increasing and constantly pushing westward. The encroachments of the -whites on the territory occupied by various tribes of the Indians were -continual, and the Indians, naturally enough, resented, and sometimes -resisted, these encroachments. Here, west of the Mississippi River, was -a vast territory, unoccupied save by Indian tribes, many of which were -wanderers. The population of this unoccupied territory was so sparse -that no doubt it seemed to President Jefferson that here was room for -all the Indians east of the Mississippi, and one of his first acts -after the cession was concluded, was to attempt to learn what he could -with regard to the occupancy of this territory, presumably in the hope -that all the Indians east of the Mississippi might be persuaded to move -westward beyond the river. - -Besides this, Jefferson had already--more than ten years -before--endeavored to send out men to cross the continent to the -Pacifice coast, but the effort had failed. But in January, 1803, before -the completion of the purchase of Louisiana, he attempted this once -more, recommending to Congress the despatching of a party to trace the -Missouri River to its source, and to go thence to the Pacific Ocean. - -It is impossible for any man now living to conceive what such an -expedition must have meant to the men who were to command it. Here was -a vast and unknown territory of indefinite width, peopled by unknown -inhabitants, uncertain as to its food supply, containing unknown -dangers and obstacles, which must be crossed on foot--though the -journey should be begun by boat. It is true that the rumors long before -brought back from the upper Mississippi Valley by Carver suggested -waterways across the continent, but these were no more than rumors, -and were mingled with an amount of fable which cast doubt on the whole -story. - -Carver’s reflections on the Shining Mountains, already quoted, were the -most definite statements that Jefferson or his explorers could have -had of that far Western country. It is true that a few Hudson’s Bay -men had already penetrated as far west as the Rocky Mountains, which -Mackenzie had crossed ten years before, yet it may be doubted whether -any definite knowledge of this great achievement had as yet reached -Washington. - -The journey which Lewis and Clark were to make was into a wilderness -less known than any that we in our day can conceive of. - -The two men prepared to carry out their orders and there is no reason -to suppose that they felt any doubt of their own success. Both came of -good, old-fashioned fighting and exploring stock and they and all their -men were made of the stuff which constituted the old-time Americans. -Theirs was the sturdy independence, the unshrinking courage and dogged -perseverance in the face of difficulty which gave to America its -Daniel Boone, its David Crockett, and its Zebulon M. Pike; and they set -out with eagerness on their journey. - -The expedition started late in the year 1803, and proceeded up the -river by boat. There were about forty-five men at the start, of -whom twenty-five were soldiers, the whole company being enlisted as -soldiers a little later. The baggage of the outfit consisted chiefly of -ammunition, together with goods to be used as presents for the Indians. -The transportation consisted of boats; one a keel boat, fifty-five feet -long, drawing three feet of water, fitted for twenty-two oars and a -sail; the other two were pirogues, open boats, dug-outs no doubt, one -of six, the other of seven oars. There were two horses, which were to -be taken along the bank for the purpose of hunting in time of scarcity, -or for bringing in game that was killed. - -Having wintered at Wood River, in Illinois, the start was made on the -14th of May, 1804. At first their progress was not rapid. Nevertheless, -before long they came to the country of the Osages. The story given of -the origin of the tribe is worth repeating: “According to universal -belief, the founder of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet -existence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept him -down to the Missouri and left him exposed on the shore. The heat of the -sun at length ripened him into a man; but with the change of his nature -he had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, toward which he -immediately bent his way. He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger -and fatigue, when, happily, the Great Spirit appeared and, giving him a -bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself -with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence; but as he -approached the river he was met by a beaver, who inquired, haughtily, -who he was and by what authority he came to disturb his possession. -The Osage answered that the river was his own, for he had once lived -on its borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver -came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her father to this young -stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver -and share with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage readily -consented, and from this happy union there soon came the village and -the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a -pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the -beaver, because in killing that animal they killed a brother of the -Osage.” - -Struggling on northward, Lewis and Clark passed the Otoes and -Missourias, and on June 25 reached the mouth of the Kansas--named from -the Indians living on its banks--three hundred and forty miles from the -Mississippi. Game was abundant, and there are allusions to deer, elk, -and buffalo. At the mouth of the Platte River they sent out messengers -to bring in Indians, since a portion of their duty was to endeavor to -make peace among the different tribes they met with. Otoes and Pawnees -lived not far off, one of the Pawnee villages being then on the Platte, -while another was on the Republican, and a third on the Wolf--now -known as the Loup River. Incidental reference is here made to several -tribes which wandered and hunted on the heads of the Platte River, and -thence to the Rocky Mountains. - -One of these, called the Staitan or Kite Indians, is said to have -acquired the name of Kite from their flying; that is, from “their -being always on horseback.” These Indians were, of course, the -Suhtai--_Suhtai_, tribal name, and _hētăn_, man. In other words, when -some Indian was asked his name or the name of his tribe, he replied: “I -am a man of the Suhtai,” and this the explorers supposed was a tribal -name. At that time the tribe was still living as an independent tribe, -though about a generation later they joined the Cheyennes and finally -became absorbed by them. So complete is this absorption that the Suhtai -language, formerly a well-marked dialect of the Cheyenne, differing -from it apparently almost as much as the Arikara dialect differs from -the Pawnee, has been almost wholly lost. At the present day only a few -of the older Cheyennes can recall any of its words. These Indians were -said to be extremely ferocious, and the most warlike of all the Western -Indians; they never yielded in battle, nor spared their enemies, -and the retaliation for this barbarity had almost extinguished the -nation. After these, according to our authors, come the Wetapahato and -Kiawa tribes, associated together, and amounting to two hundred men. -Wetapahato is the Sioux name for the Kiowas, which the Cheyennes have -abbreviated to Witapat. Other tribes are mentioned, hardly now to be -identified. - -On July 31 a party of Otoe and Missouria Indians came to their camp, -and on the following day a council was held, at which presents, medals, -and other ornaments were given to the Indians. The point where this -council was held was given the name Council Bluffs, and it stands -to-day across the river from Omaha, Nebraska. A little farther up the -river they reached an old Omaha village, once consisting of three -hundred cabins, but it had been burned about 1799, soon after the -small-pox had destroyed four hundred men and a proportion of the women -and children. This dread disease gave the Omahas the worst blow that -they had ever received, and, perhaps even as much as their wars with -the Pawnees, reduced them to a tributary people. On August 16, two -parties were sent out to catch fish on a little stream. “They made -a drag with small willows and bark, and swept the creek; the first -company brought three hundred and eighteen, and the second upward of -eight hundred, consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, -redhorse, buffalo, one rock-fish, one flatback, perch, catfish, a small -species of perch, called on the Ohio silverfish, and a shrimp of the -same size, shape, and flavor of those about New Orleans and the lower -part of the Mississippi.” - -A few days before, one of their Frenchmen had deserted, and the -commanding officers had sent out men to capture him. This they -succeeded in doing, but the man subsequently escaped again. On the 18th -they received another party of Indians--Otoes and Missourias. The next -day the first death occurred in the expedition, that of Charles Floyd, -who was buried on the top of the hill, and his grave marked by a cedar -post. - -The post which marked Floyd’s grave had been thrown down by the winds -before 1839, but was set up again by Joseph Nicollet in that year. -All the time, however, the Missouri River was eating into the bank -toward the grave, and in the spring of 1857 the high water undermined -a part of the bluff and left Floyd’s coffin exposed. When this became -known at Sioux City, a party visited the grave and rescued the bones, -reinterring them six hundred feet back from the first grave. This -spot was lost again in the course of the years, but was rediscovered -in 1895, and finally in 1901 a permanent monument of white stone was -erected to the first citizen soldier of the United States to die and -be buried within the Louisiana Purchase, and the only man lost on the -Lewis and Clark expedition. - -Farther up the stream, beyond the mouth of the Big Sioux River, they -killed their first buffalo. Near the mouth of the Whitestone they found -a curious mound, described as a regular parallelogram, the longest side -being three hundred yards, and the shorter sixty or seventy. It rises -sixty-five or seventy feet above the plain, and shows at the summit a -level plain about twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. This, -according to the Sioux, was called the Hill of the Little People, -and “they believe that it is the abode of little devils, in the human -form, of about eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; -they are armed with sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and -are always on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood -to approach their residence.” Many Indians have been killed by these -spirits, and, among “others, three Omaha Indians, only a few years -before. The Sioux, Omahas, and Otoes are so afraid of the place that -they never visit it.” - -The wind blows so strongly over the plain in which this mound stands -that insects are obliged to seek shelter on its leeward side, or be -driven against it. The little birds which feed on these insects resort -there in great numbers to pick them up. There the brown martin was so -employed, and the birds were so tame that they would not fly until -closely approached. - -At Calumet Bluff the party was visited by a number of Yankton Sioux, -brought in by Sergeant Pryor and his party, who had gone to the village -to induce them to come to the river. A council was held with these -Indians and presents given them; and in the evening the Indians danced -for the entertainment of the white men. To the Durions--Frenchmen who -were trading with these Indians--presents were given; and they were -requested to try to make peace between the Yanktons and their enemies. - -Reference is made to the soldier bands of the Sioux and Cheyennes, -though without much comprehension of what this organization is. It is -spoken of in these terms: “It is an association of the most active and -brave young men, who are bound to each other by attachment, secured -by a vow never to retreat before any danger or give way to their -enemies. In war they go forward without sheltering themselves behind -trees or aiding their natural valor by any artifice. This punctilious -determination not to be turned from their course became heroic or -ridiculous a short time since, when the Yanktons were crossing the -Missouri on the ice. A hole lay immediately in their course, which -might easily have been avoided by going round. This the foremost of -the band disdained to do, but went straight forward, and was lost. The -others would have followed his example, but were forcibly prevented -by the rest of the tribe. The young men sit, and encamp, and dance -together, distinct from the rest of the nation; they are generally -about thirty or thirty-five years old, and such is the deference paid -to courage that their seats in council are superior to those of the -chiefs, and their persons more respected. But, as may be supposed, such -indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the numbers of those who practice -it, so that the band is now reduced to four warriors, who were among -our visitors. These were the remains of twenty-two, who composed the -society not long ago; but, in a battle with the Kite Indians of the -Black Mountains, eighteen of them were killed, and these four were -dragged from the field by their companions.” - -Warrior societies, or, as they are more often termed, soldier bands, -existed among all the plains tribes. In some tribes there might be -only four, in others a dozen or fifteen, such societies. They were -police officers, and among their important duties was the seeing that -orders of the chiefs were obeyed. - -The list of the Sioux tribes here given includes the -Yanktons, the Tetons of the Burned Woods--now called Brulés; -the Tetons Okandandas--now known as Ogallalas; the Teton -Minnakenozzo--Minneconjous; the Teton Saone--Santees; Yanktons of -the Plains--Yanktonnaies; the Mindawarcarton--Minnewakaton; the -Wahpatoota--Wahpatones; the Sistasoone--Sissetons. - -Not far beyond Calumet Bluffs were found extraordinary earthworks, said -by the explorers and French interpreters to be common on the Platte, -the Kansas, and the James rivers. The Poncas were next passed, above La -Rivière qui Court--the Niobrara. These are said to have been largely -reduced in numbers by the attacks of their enemies, and to be now -associating with the Omahas, and residing on the head of the Loup and -the Running Water. Above here the first prairie dogs were seen; and -not long after they were rejoined by one of their men who, twelve days -before, had been sent off after lost horses, and, having found them, -had been wandering along the river for twelve days, seeking his party. -Mention is made on September 17 of a great prairie dog town, and it is -told that their presence here enticed to this place “wolves of a small -kind, hawks, and polecats, all of which animals we saw, and presume -that they fed on the squirrels.” The whole country here had recently -been burned, and was now covered with young grass, on which herds of -antelope and buffalo were feeding. - -On the 20th the party had a narrow escape from being buried under a -falling bank, undermined by the river. On this day a fort and a large -trading house built by Mr. Loizel for the purpose of trading with the -Sioux was passed on Cedar Island, and the following day Indians stole -one of their horses. They had now come to the country of the Teton -Indians, and, holding a council with them, had more or less trouble, -which would undoubtedly have resulted in fighting had it not been -for the prudence of Captain Clark. The Indians were insolent, and -were disposed to go just as far as permitted in annoying the white -people. However, they were not allowed to impose on the party, and a -short distance above this the main Teton village was passed, and here -Captains Lewis and Clark were met at the river bank by ten young men, -who carried them on buffalo robes to the large house where the council -was to be held--an evidence of the highest respect. - -The custom of carrying a person who was to be highly honored on a robe -or blanket by young men is very old. It was practised to show honor to -aged or brave people, and also if two young people of good family were -about to be married, the young girl, as she drew near the home of the -bridegroom’s parents, riding on a horse led by some old kinswoman, was -often met by young men related to the bridegroom, who spread down a -robe or blanket, assisted her from her horse, asked her to sit down on -the robe, and then carried her to the lodge of her future husband. - -In the shelter where they met were about seventy men, sitting about -the chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and an American flag -which Lewis and Clark had given him. Within the circle was the pipe, -supported on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from the -ground, and beneath the pipe was scattered the down of a swan. Food was -cooking over the fire, and near the kettle a large amount of buffalo -meat, intended as a present. The feast consisted of a dog, pemmican, -and pomme blanche, and was ladled into wooden dishes with a horn spoon. -After eating and smoking, a number of dances were performed. Concerning -these, the very incorrect opinion is expressed: “Nor does the music -appear to be anything more than a confusion of noises, distinguished -only by hard or gentle blows upon a buffalo skin; the song is perfectly -extemporaneous.” It is, of course, now well known that these songs and -dances are always the same, and never, by any chance, change. - -It is noted that these Indians, who appear to have been Ogallalas, had -then a fashion of dressing the hair different from anything recently -known. The journal says: “The men shaved the hair off their heads, -except a small tuft on the top, which they suffered to grow, and wore -in plaits over the shoulders. To this they seemed much attached, as -the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the death of near relations.” -The dress of men and women is described, and it is noted that the -fire-bags of these Sioux were made of the dressed skins of skunks. The -women’s dresses were not very unlike that of recent times. - -The Sioux met along the river by Lewis and Clark were new-comers in -that country. It is true that twenty-five years before a few Sioux -had crossed the Missouri River and had gone as far west as the Black -Hills--which are constantly spoken of by Lewis and Clark as the Black -Mountains. But it is also true that up to about the beginning of the -nineteenth century few or no Sioux had crossed the Missouri River who -remained permanently on the west bank. The accounts of many modern -writers on Indian matters seem to imply that from time immemorial the -Dakotas had roamed the Western plains, but it is well known by those -who have given attention to the subject that this is not at all true; -that the Sioux are a people of the East, and the tribal traditions -constantly speak of their migration from the country of the rising sun. - -After four days spent with these Indians, preparations were made to -proceed up the river; but the Indians did not seem willing to let them -go. They did not show any particular hostility, but were extremely -irritating, and put the white men to so much trouble that they were -obliged to threaten them with fighting. Even after they had at last -succeeded in starting on their journey, these Sioux followed them along -the river, and continued to annoy them. - -Not very far above the point where they were troubled by the Sioux they -came on a village of Arikaras, with whom some Frenchmen were living, -and among them a Monsieur Gravelines. This man brought together the -Arikara chiefs for a conference, in which speeches were made to them -similar to those already uttered to the Indians down the river. Some -presents were given, but the offer of liquor was declined, the Indians -saying that they were surprised that their father should present to -them a liquor which would make them fools. From the Indians were -received presents of corn, beans, and squashes. The following day other -councils were had at other villages of the Rees; and the explorers -finally left them to go on their way. The history of this tribe is -given with substantial accuracy, and much is said about their habits -and their good disposition. - -Farther up the river a camp of Sioux was passed, and beyond them a -stream called Stone-Idol Creek. This name was given from the discovery -that “a few miles back from the Missouri there are two stones -resembling human figures, and a third like a dog; all of which are -objects of great veneration among the Arikaras.” - -While nothing is said about the size of these figures, one wonders -whether the reference may not be to that stone figure known as the -Standing Rock, concerning which the Yankton Sioux have a tradition. We -have not heard of the figure of a man in connection with the Standing -Rock, but there was certainly the figure of a woman and of a dog, -and the woman, who owned the dog, is said to have been a Ree woman. -The Yankton tradition, however, is quite different from that given -by Lewis and Clark. Their two stone figures are a lover and a girl -whose parents declined to permit the marriage; and these two young -persons, the man accompanied by his dog, met on the prairie, and, after -wandering about, were at last turned to stone. The Standing Rock, which -is now at Standing Rock Agency, in North Dakota, is said to have been -a Ree woman, who, after having long been the only wife of her husband, -became jealous when he took another wife, and, lagging behind the -travelling body of the Rees, was finally turned to stone, and remains -to this day a warning to all jealous women. - -A little later during the day’s journey they saw great numbers of -“goats” (antelope) coming to the banks of the river. No doubt these -animals were then migrating toward the mountains, or perhaps to the -broken hills of the Little Missouri. On October 18 they passed the -Cannon-ball River, referred to as Le Boulet; and here they met two -Frenchmen who had been robbed by the Mandans, but who turned about and -proceeded north again with the white men, in the hope of recovering -their possessions. Game was extremely abundant--buffalo, elk, and -deer. An Indian who was with them pointed out to them a number of -round hills, in which he declared the calumet birds--probably the -thunder-bird--had their homes. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -LEWIS AND CLARK - -II - - -As they proceeded, they passed a number of ruined villages of the -Mandans, the low mounds of earth showing where the sod houses had -fallen in; but on October 24 they came to a large Mandan village, where -they were received with friendship, and where the chief of the Arikaras -smoked with the grand chief of the Mandans. - -On the 26th, at a large Mandan camp, they met a Mr. McCracken, a -trader in the employ of the Northwest Fur Company, who was much on -the Missouri River in those early days. The younger Henry frequently -mentions him in his journal, but at a slightly later day. The Mandans -were not only most friendly, but most interested in the strange people -who had arrived in boats; and men, women, and children crowded to the -river-bank to see them. “The object which seemed to surprise them -most was a corn-mill fixed to the boat, which we had occasion to use, -and which delighted them by the ease with which it reduced grain to -powder,” for the Mandans, like other Indians, pulverized their corn by -pounding it in a mortar. - -On the following day their boat reached the principal Mandan village, -and here was found a Frenchman named Jessaume, who was living among the -Mandans with an Indian wife. Not far from the Mandan village was one of -the Annahways, a tribe, according to Dr. Matthews, closely related to -the Hidatsa, or Minnetari, a part of whose warriors were then absent -on an expedition against the Shoshoni. In speeches of the usual form, -Captains Lewis and Clark expressed the good will of the Great Father at -Washington, and his desire that all the tribes should be at peace; and -presents and medals were distributed among the chiefs. In the course -of the next few days these presents were returned by gifts of corn and -dried meat; and the Arikara chief set out for his home with one Mandan -chief and several Minnetari and Mandan warriors. Captain Clark, after -much investigation, found a good situation for a winter post, and the -work of felling timber and erecting buildings began. Besides the Mandan -interpreter, Jessaume, they met here a Canadian Frenchman, who had been -with the Cheyenne Indians “on the Black Mountains,” and the previous -summer had come by way of the Little Missouri to the Great River. The -Little Missouri was always a great range for the Cheyennes. - -The weather, which for some time had been cold, now grew much colder, -and ice formed on the edges of the rivers. Water fowl were passing -south, and it was evident that soon the river would close up. A large -camp of Assiniboines, with some Crees, had come to the Mandan village -and encamped there. A couple of Frenchmen made their appearance from -farther down the river. It seems extraordinary how many Canadian -Frenchmen there were at this time in this distant country. - -Near Fort Mandan, just established, there were five Indian villages, -the residence of three distinct tribes, the Mandans, the Annahways, -and the Minnetari. The journal gives the history of these nations as -follows: “Within the recollection of living witnesses the Mandans -were settled forty years ago in nine villages (the ruins of which we -passed about eighty miles below), situated seven on the west and two -on the east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves wasting -away before the small-pox and the Sioux, united into one village and -moved up the river opposite to the Ricaras. The same causes reduced -the remaining seven to five villages, till at length they emigrated -in a body to the Ricara nation, where they formed themselves into two -villages and joined those of their countrymen who had gone before them. -In their new residence they were still insecure, and at length the -three villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. The two -who had emigrated together settled in the two villages on the northwest -side of the Missouri, while the single village took a position on the -southeast side. In this situation they were found by those who visited -them in 1796, since which the two villages have united into one. They -are now in two villages, one on the southeast of the Missouri, the -other on the opposite side, and at the distance of three miles across. -The first, in an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, -built in the same way as those of the Ricaras; the second, the same -number, and both may raise about three hundred and fifty men. - -“On the same side of the river, and at the distance of four miles from -the lower Mandan village, is another, called Mahaha. It is situated -on a high plain at the mouth of the Knife River, and is the residence -of the Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates that they were -‘people whose village is on a hill,’ formerly resided on the Missouri, -about thirty miles below where they now lived. The Assiniboines and -Sioux forced them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest part -of them were put to death, and the rest emigrated to their present -situation, in order to obtain an asylum near the Minnetarees. They -are called by the French, Soulier Noir, or Black Shoe Indians; by the -Mandans, Wattasoons; and their whole force is about fifty men.” - -Toward the end of November seven traders belonging to the Northwest -Company reached the Mandans, coming from the Assiniboine River. Before -long some of them began to circulate unfavorable reports among the -Indians, and Captains Lewis and Clark found it necessary to take -immediate steps to stop this. They told Mr. Laroche, the chief of the -seven traders, that they should not permit him to give medals and flags -to the Indians, who were under the protection of the American nation, -and would receive consideration from them alone. - -On the last day of November, word was brought that the Sioux had -attacked the Mandans, and killed one and wounded two others, and that a -number of Indians were missing. Captain Clark, therefore, in order to -fix the loyalty of the Indians, summoned his whole force, and arming -them, set out for the Mandan village. He told the chief who came out to -meet him that he had come to assist them in their war, and would lead -them against the Sioux, their enemies, and avenge the blood of their -countrymen. This action made a great impression on the Mandans, and a -Cheyenne captive, who had been brought up in the tribe, and attained -a position of considerable importance, made a speech thanking the -white men for their assistance, and expressing the confidence of the -Indians in them. There was a long talk, after which Captain Clark left -the village. The next day six Sharha (Cheyenne) Indians came to the -village, bringing the pipe of peace, and saying that their nation was -three days’ march behind them. With the Cheyennes were three Pawnees. -The Cheyennes were at peace with the Sioux, and the Mandans feared them -and wished to put them to death, but knowing that this would be against -the wishes of their white friends, they did nothing. Lewis and Clark -note the common practice of calling the Arikaras, Pawnees, a practice -which still exists. - -A little later something is said about the chief of the Mandans, and -following this comes the story of the tribe’s origin, as given by the -Mandans themselves: “Their belief in a future state is connected with -this tradition of their origin: The whole nation resided in one large -village under ground, near a subterraneous lake. A grapevine extended -its roots down to their habitation and gave them a view of the light. -Some of the most adventurous climbed up the vine, and were delighted -with the sight of the earth, which they found covered with buffalo, -and rich with every kind of fruits. Returning with the grapes they had -gathered, their countrymen were so pleased with the taste of them that -the whole nation resolved to leave their dull residence for the charms -of the upper region. Men, women, and children ascended by means of the -vine; but when about half the nation had reached the surface of the -earth a corpulent woman, who was clambering up the vine, broke it with -her weight and closed upon herself and the rest of the nation the light -of the sun. Those who were left on the earth made a village below, -where we saw the nine villages; and when the Mandans die they expect to -return to the original seats of their forefathers, the good reaching -the ancient village by means of the lake, which the burden of the sins -of the wicked will not enable them to cross.” - -Although the weather was cold, buffalo were near, and there was much -hunting by means of the surround, with the bow and arrows. Captain -Clark hunted with the Indians, and killed ten buffalo, of which five -only were brought into the fort, the remainder being taken by the -Indians; since, as the buffalo were killed by guns, they bore no mark -of identification, such as an arrow would have furnished. The next day -Captain Lewis took fifteen men and went out to hunt buffalo. They -killed eight and one deer; but, being obliged to travel on foot through -deep snow, it took them a long time to approach the buffalo, and some -of the men were frost-bitten. - -It was now mid-December, and very cold; and the white men suffered a -good deal and hunted but little. About this time a Mr. Haney arrived -from the British post on the Assiniboine, bearing a letter from Mr. -Chabouillez, a well-known trader of the North, with offers of service. -In the Mandan village the Indians were playing at sticks, apparently -in the method practiced at the present day among the Blackfeet. Thin -circular stones are rolled along the ground, and followed by running -men, who slide their sticks along the ground trying to have the disk -fall on them. On December 22 the explorers seem to have first seen the -horns of the Rocky Mountain sheep. It is “about the size of a small -elk or large deer, the horns winding like those of a ram, which they -resemble also in texture, though larger and thicker.” - -The year 1804 opened with New Year’s day festivities, and “in the -morning we permitted sixteen men with their music to go up to the -first village, where they delighted the whole tribe with their dances, -particularly with the movements of one of the Frenchmen, who danced -on his head.” Frequent mention is made of the pleasure with which the -Indians witnessed the dancing of the Americans, and this amusement -was much indulged in by the men, many of whom, as already said, were -Frenchmen. - -Although the cold was intense and the white men suffered severely, the -Indians seemed to regard it very little. They were coming and going -constantly, very slightly clad, and sometimes were obliged to sleep out -in the snow, with no protection save a buffalo robe; and yet they were -seldom frozen. - -During these months of inaction, Lewis and Clark were frequently -occupied in settling individual quarrels among the various Indians -near them, making peace between husbands and wives and persuading the -Indians to abandon war journeys planned for the following spring. - -Traders from the North were frequent visitors to these villages. -All through the winter the blacksmith kept at work with his forge, -manufacturing various articles of iron, and the Indians seemed never -to weary of watching him and admiring the magic by which he turned a -straight piece of iron into a useful implement. - -During all this time hunting was going on, for though the explorers -had abundant provisions, yet they were supporting themselves as far -as possible from the country. Besides the corn which they purchased -from the Indians, in exchange for trade goods and bits of iron, they -killed buffalo, deer, and elk; and on one hunt, in February, Captain -Clark and his party killed forty deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. -Most of the game was too lean for use, and was left for the wolves. A -part, however, was brought to a point on the river, and there protected -in pens built of logs, which should keep off the wolves, ravens, and -magpies. The next day four men were sent with sleds and three horses, -to bring in the meat. They returned that night stating that a party of -one hundred men had rushed upon them, cut the traces of the sleds and -carried off two of the horses, the third being left them through the -influence of one of the Indians. The Indians had also taken some of -the men’s arms. An effort was made to pursue these enemies, who were -believed to be Sioux, and Captain Lewis, with a few Mandans, set out on -their trail. This was followed for two or three days, until at last it -turned off into the prairie. The supposition that these robbers were -Sioux was confirmed by finding some moccasins that had been thrown -away, though the Sioux had dropped some corn in one place, apparently -with the hope of making it appear that they were Arikaras. Before -returning, Captain Clark visited the place where the meat had been -cached, and did some more hunting; and, having killed thirty-six deer, -fourteen elk, and one wolf, he returned to the fort with about three -thousand pounds of meat. - -The weather was now growing milder, and preparations began to be -made for continuing the journey. Men were sent out to look for trees -suitable for canoes. White men began to arrive from the Northwest -Company’s post, and also Mr. Gravelines, with Frenchmen from the -Arikara village down the river. These brought word that the Rees were -willing to make peace with the Mandans and Minnetari, and asked if the -Mandans would be willing to have the Arikaras settle near them, and -form with them a league against the Sioux. Word was brought that the -Sioux who had stolen the explorers’ horses had afterward gone to the -Arikara village and told what they had done, and that the Rees were so -angry at this that they had declined to give them anything to eat; in -other words, had treated them as enemies. - -The river broke up late in March, and, as happened every spring, -many buffalo were brought down on the floating ice. An interesting -description is given of how the Indians killed the buffalo floating -down on the cakes of ice, which they dared not leave. The men ran -lightly over the loose ice in the river until they had reached the -large cake on which the buffalo stood, and, killing it there, then -paddled the cake of ice to the shore. - -A thunder-storm, accompanied by hail, came on April 1--the breaking up -of the winter. And now for several days the explorers were engaged in -packing specimens to be sent back to Washington; skins and skeletons of -some of the animals of the country, together with a number of articles -of Indian dress, arms, implements, tobacco seed, and corn, with -specimens of some plants. Arrangements were made also for some of the -chiefs of the Rees to visit the President; and a delegation from the -Rees made a peace with the Mandans. - -The explorers were now ready to continue their journey, and left the -fort the afternoon of April 7. The party consisted of thirty-two -persons, including the interpreters, one of whom was accompanied by his -wife. At the same time their large boat, manned by seven soldiers and -two Frenchmen, set out down the river for the distant United States. - -The journey up the river was slow, and it would be too long to tell -of all they saw--things then new to all, but now common enough. The -prairie and the river bottom swarmed with game--herds of buffalo, elk, -antelope, with some deer and wolves. As they went along they saw a nest -of geese built “in the tops of lofty cottonwood trees,” an interesting -fact in natural history, rediscovered more than fifty years later by -an enterprising ornithologist. From time to time, as they passed up -the river, they passed small abandoned encampments of Indians, at one -of which, “from the hoops of small kegs found in them, we judged could -belong to Assiniboines only, as they are the only Missouri Indians who -use spirituous liquors. Of these they are so passionately fond that it -forms their chief inducement to visit the British on the Assiniboine, -to whom they barter for kegs of rum their dried and pounded meat, their -grease, and the skins of large and small wolves, and small foxes; the -dangerous exchange is transported to their camps, with their friends -and relations, and soon exhausted in brutal intoxication. So far from -considering drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children are -permitted and invited to share in these excesses with their husbands -and fathers, who boast how often their skill and industry as hunters -have supplied them with the means of intoxication; in this, as in -other habits and customs, they resemble the Sioux, from whom they are -descended.” - -The recent presence of the Assiniboines on the river had made the game -scarce and shy, and it was so early in the season that the animals -killed were very thin in flesh, and almost useless for food. Beaver, -however, were numerous, and seemed larger and fatter, and with darker -and better fur, than any seen hitherto. They were now in the country -of abundant buffalo, and the calves had already begun to make their -appearance. On April 26 they reached the mouth of the Yellowstone -River, “known to the French as La Roche Jaune.” Game was so plenty that -it was scarcely necessary to hunt, and they killed only what was needed -for food. The river banks were lined with dead buffalo; some partly -devoured by wolves. The buffalo had evidently been drowned in crossing, -either by breaking through the ice or being unable to clamber from the -water when landing under some high bluff. - -On April 29 Captain Lewis met his first grizzly bear, which the -explorers call white bears. “Of the strength and ferocity of this -animal the Indians had given us dreadful accounts; they never attack -him but in parties of six or eight persons, and even then are often -defeated, with the loss of one or more of the party. Having no weapons -but bows and arrows, and the bad guns with which the traders supply -them, they are obliged to approach very near to the bear; and as no -wound except through the head or heart is mortal, they frequently fall -a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He rather attacks than avoids man; -and such is the terror he has inspired that the Indians who go in -quest of him paint themselves and perform all the superstitious rites -customary when they make war on a neighboring nation. Hitherto those we -had seen did not appear desirous of encountering us, but although to a -skilful rifleman the danger is very much diminished, the white bear is -still a terrible animal. On approaching these two, both Captain Lewis -and the hunter fired, and each wounded a bear. One of them made his -escape; the other turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him for seventy -or eighty yards; but, being badly wounded, he could not run so fast as -to prevent him from reloading his piece, which he again aimed at him, -and a third shot from the hunter brought him to the ground.” - -The curiosity of the antelope is spoken of as being often the occasion -of its easy destruction. “When they first see the hunters they run with -great velocity; if he lies down on the ground and lifts up his arm, his -hat or his foot, they return with a light trot to look at the object, -and sometimes go and return two or three times, till they approach -within reach of the rifle. So, too, they sometimes leave their flock to -go and look at the wolves, which crouch down, and, if the antelope is -frightened at first, repeat the same manœuver, and sometimes relieve -each other till they decoy it from the party, when they seize it. But -generally the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers; for, -although swift on foot, they are not good swimmers.” - -As the party struggled on up the Missouri they passed the mouth of -the Porcupine River, so-called from the unusual number of porcupines -seen near it. They continued to see vast quantities of buffalo, elk, -and deer--principally of the long-tailed kind--with antelope, beaver, -geese, ducks, and swans. As they went on, the game became much tamer. -The male buffalo would scarcely give way to them, and as the white men -drew near, looked at them for a moment and then quietly began to graze -again. - -On May 4 they passed some old Indian hunting camps, “one of which -consisted of two large lodges fortified with a circular fence twenty -or thirty feet in diameter, and made of timber laid horizontally, the -beams overlaying each other to the height of five feet, and covered -with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river. -The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks, -about the size of a man’s leg or arm, and twelve feet long, which are -attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so as -to form at the base a circle of from ten to fourteen feet in diameter; -against these are placed pieces of drift-wood and fallen timber, -usually in three ranges, one on the other, and the interstices are -covered with leaves, bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure -about ten feet high, with a small aperture in one side for the door.” -These lodges, of course, were war lodges of the Assiniboines, Gros -Ventres, or Blackfeet, though the travellers evidently took them for -ordinary habitations. - -The explorers were greatly interested in the animals they -saw--especially the bears--and gave good descriptions of them, and of -their habits. - -The tenacity of life in the bears made them especially interesting, and -their encounters with them were often marked by danger. However, the -people usually hunted in couples or in small parties, and as yet no one -had been hurt. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -LEWIS AND CLARK - -III - - -They had now passed Milk River, and the Dry Fork, and the journal says: -“The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, -which last are so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of -the way with sticks and stones.” Bears were abundant, and almost every -day one was killed. - -They were approaching the mountains, and the spring storms, which -here last until the middle of July, troubled them with abundant rains -and by obscuring the view. On the 20th they reached the mouth of the -Musselshell, and pushing on, in a short time found themselves among the -bad lands of the upper Missouri. They were now obliged to “cordell,” a -number of the men walking on the shore with a tow-line, while others -kept the boat off the bank. This was slow and difficult work, and was -made more dangerous by the fact that their elk-skin ropes were getting -old and rotten, and were likely to break at critical times. On May -29 some buffalo ran through the camp, and caused much confusion and -alarm, no one knowing exactly what had happened until after it was -all over. When they passed the mouth of the Judith River they found -traces of a large camp of Indians, a hundred and twenty-six fires, -made, as they conjectured, by “The Minnetari of Fort de Prairie,” that -is, the Gros Ventres of the Prairie--Arapahoes or Atséna. Here, too, -they passed precipices about one hundred and twenty feet high, below -which lay scattered the remains of at least a hundred carcasses of -buffalo. The method by which the buffalo are driven over the cliffs by -the upper Missouri tribes is described. At this place the wolves which -had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle that -one of them was killed with a spontoon or halberd. They were now among -some of the most impressive bad lands of the Missouri River, and the -extraordinary effects of erosion by air and water made the explorers -wonder. - -Captains Lewis and Clark were much puzzled at this point to know which -of the rivers before them was the main Missouri. The Minnetari had -told them that the main Missouri headed close to the Columbia River, -and it was this main stream that they wished to follow up, in order -that they might strike Columbia waters, and thus continue their way -toward the west. The choice of the wrong branch might take them a very -long distance out of their way, and they would be forced to return -to this point, losing a season for travelling, and also, perhaps, so -disheartening the men as to take away much or all of their enthusiasm. -Accordingly, two land parties set out, one under Captain Lewis and one -under Captain Clark. Captain Lewis followed up the Missouri River, and -became convinced that it was not the main stream, and that it would not -be wise to follow it up. The remainder of his party, however, believed -it to be the true Missouri. Captain Clark, who had followed up the -other stream, had seen nothing to give him much notion as to whether -it was or was not the principal river. After long consideration, and -getting from the interpreters and Frenchmen all that they knew on -the subject, they determined to make a cache at this point, and that -a party should ascend the southern branch by land until they should -reach either the falls of the Missouri or the mountains. This plan -was carried out. The heavy baggage, together with some provisions, -salt, powder, and tools, were cached; one of the boats was hidden; and -Captain Lewis, with four men, started June 11 to follow up the southern -stream. - -On the 13th they came to a beautiful plain, where the buffalo were -in greater numbers than they had ever been seen, and a little later -Captain Lewis came upon the great falls of the Missouri. This most -cheering discovery gave them the information that they desired, and -the next day an effort was made to find a place where the canoes might -be portaged beyond the falls. This was not found; and a considerable -journey up and down the river showed to the explorers the great -number of falls existing at this place. Game was very numerous, and -buffalo were killed and the meat prepared, and a messenger was sent -back to the main party to tell what had been discovered. One day in -this neighborhood Captain Lewis, having carelessly left his rifle -unloaded, was chased for a considerable distance by a bear, and -finally took refuge in the river. The next day he was threatened by -three buffalo bulls, which came up to within a hundred yards of him on -the full charge, and then stopped; and the next day, in the morning, -he found a rattlesnake coiled up on a tree trunk close to where he -had been sleeping. There seems to have been excitement enough in the -neighborhood of the Great Falls. It was found necessary here to leave -their boats behind, and the travellers made an effort to supply their -place by a homely cart, the wheels of which were made from sections of -the trunk of a large cottonwood tree. - -For a good while now the party had been travelling, most of the time -on foot, over rough country, covered with prickly pears, and the -ground rough with hard points of earth, where the buffalo had trodden -during the recent rains. Their foot-gear was worn out, and the feet of -many of the men were sore. All were becoming weak from exertion and -the fatigues they were constantly undergoing. However, the enormous -abundance of game kept them from suffering from hunger. Two or three -weeks were spent in the neighborhood of the Great Falls, preparing -for their onward journey. Provisions were secured by killing buffalo -and drying their meat. They tried to prepare a skin boat for going -up the river, and for various explorations and measurements in the -neighborhood, but the attempt was unsuccessful. The iron frame had been -brought from the East, but wood for flooring and gunwales was hardly to -be had. They were obliged to give up the boat, strip the covering from -it, and cache the pieces. - -While they were in this neighborhood, they were much annoyed by the -white bears, which constantly visited their camp during the night. -Their dog kept them advised of the approach of the animals, but it was -annoying to be obliged to sleep with their arms by their sides and -to expect to be awakened at any moment. The daring of the bears was -great; once some of the hunters, seeing a place where they thought it -likely that a bear might be found, climbed into a tree, shouted, and -a bear instantly rushed toward them. It came to the tree and stopped -and looked at them, when one of the men shot it. It proved to be the -largest bear yet seen. - -Captain Clark, journeying with Chaboneau, the interpreter, his wife and -child, and the negro servant York, took shelter one day under a steep -rock in a deep ravine, to be out of the rain and wind. A heavy shower -came up, and before they knew it a tremendous torrent came rolling -down the ravine, so that they narrowly escaped losing their lives. -Captain Clark pulled the Indian woman up out of the water, which, -before he could climb the bank, was up to his waist. The guns and some -instruments were lost in the flood. - -The question of transportation was finally solved by their making two -small canoes from cottonwood trees, and they pushed on up the Missouri. -A small party went ahead on foot, examining the country. Game was -fairly numerous, and near the Dearborn River they saw a “large herd of -the big horned animals.” Indian camps were occasionally seen, and it -was noted that in some places pine trees had been stripped of their -bark, which, the Indian woman told them, was done by the Snakes in the -spring, in order to obtain the soft parts of the wood and the bark for -food. - -The river here was deep, and with only a moderate current, and they -were obliged to employ the tow-rope, cordelling their vessel along the -shore. Geese and cranes were breeding along the river; the young geese -perfectly feathered and as large as the old ones, while the cranes were -as large as turkeys. The land party followed for much of the distance -an Indian trail, which led in the general direction they wished to go. - -They had now reached the Three Forks of the Missouri, which were duly -named, as we know them to-day, Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin. They -were in the country of the Snake Indians, whom they were in daily hope -of meeting, feeling sure that through the medium of Chaboneau’s wife -they would be able to establish satisfactory relations with them. -Captain Clark still kept ahead of the party, on foot, to learn the -courses and practicability of the different streams for the canoes, and -left notes at different points, with instructions for the boats. One -of these notes, left on a green pole stuck up in the mud, failed to be -received because a beaver cut down the pole after it had been planted, -and the consequence was that the canoes proceeded for a considerable -distance up the wrong fork, and were obliged to return. Reaching the -Beaverhead, the Snake woman pointed out the place where she had been -captured five years before. On August 9 Captain Lewis, with three -men, set out, determined to find some Indians before returning to -the party, and the rest of the expedition kept on up the main fork -of the Jefferson as best they could. On August 11 Captain Lewis had -the pleasure of seeing a man on horseback approaching him. The man’s -appearance was different from that of any Indian seen before, and -Captain Lewis was convinced that he was a Shoshoni. When the two men -were about a mile apart the Indian stopped, and Captain Lewis signalled -to him with his blanket, making the sign of friendship, and attempted -to approach him. The Indian was suspicious, and unfortunately the two -men who were following Captain Lewis did not observe the latter’s sign -to wait, and so, though the Indian permitted the white man to come to -within a hundred yards of him, he finally turned his horse and rode off -into the willows. They followed the track of the Indian as well as they -could until night, and the next morning continued the search. By this -time their food was nearly gone. They kept on up the stream until it -had grown to be a rivulet so small that Captain Lewis could stand over -it with one foot on either bank. - -Keeping on to the west, they reached the divide between the Atlantic -and Pacific waters, and the next day came upon a woman and a man, who -declined to await near approach. A little bit later they came on three -Indians, an old and a young woman and a little girl. The young woman -escaped by running, but the other two sat down on the ground and seemed -to be awaiting death. Captain Lewis made them presents, and after a -little conversation, by signs, they set out for the camp. Before they -had gone far they met a troop of sixty warriors rushing down upon them -at full speed. Captain Lewis put down his gun and went forward with a -flag. The leading Indians spoke to the women, who explained that the -party were white men, and showed, with pride, the presents that they -had received. The warriors received them with great friendliness, and -they smoked together on the best of terms, and subsequently proceeded -to the camp, where they were received with the utmost hospitality. -The Indians had abundant fresh meat and salmon. Most of them were -armed with bows, but a few had guns, which they had obtained from -the Northwest Company. They had many horses, and hunted antelope on -horseback, surrounding and driving them from point to point, until the -antelope were worn out and the horses were foaming with sweat. Many of -the antelope broke through and got away. - -Captain Lewis tried to arrange with the chief to return with him to -the Jefferson, meet the party, and bring them over the mountains, -and then trade for some horses. The chief readily consented, but it -subsequently appeared that he was more or less suspicious, and he -repeated to Captain Lewis the suggestions made by some of the Indians -that the white men were perhaps allies of their enemies and were trying -to draw them into an ambuscade. The chief, with six or eight warriors, -started back with Captain Lewis, and it was evident that the people in -the village thought that they were going into great danger, for the -women were crying and praying for good fortune for those about to go -into danger, while the men who feared to go were sullen and unhappy. -Nevertheless, before the party had gone far from the camp, they were -joined by others, and a little later all the men, and many of the -women, overtook them, and travelled along cheerfully with them. Two -or three days later Captain Lewis sent out two of his men to hunt, -and this seemed to revive the suspicions of the Indians; and when, a -little later, one of the Indians who had followed the hunters was seen -riding back as hard as he could, the whole company of Indians who were -with Captain Lewis whirled about and ran away as fast as possible. It -was not until they had raced along for a mile or two that the Indian -who returned made the others understand that one of the white men had -killed a deer, and instantly the whole company turned about and ran -back, each man eager to get first to the deer that he might make sure -of a piece. - -Meantime the main party had struggled on up the river, and on August -17 were met by a messenger from Captain Lewis, Drewyer, together with -two or three of his Indian friends. The two parties met, and, through -the medium of Chaboneau’s wife, all suspicions were allayed and the -friendliest relations established. Efforts were now made to learn -something about the country to the westward and the best method of -passing through it. The Indians said the way was difficult, the river -swift, full of rapids, and flowing through deep canyons, which passed -through mountains impassable for men or horses. The route to the -southward of the river was said to pass through a dry, parched desert -of sand, uninhabited by game, and impossible at that season for the -horses, as the grass was dead and the water dried up by the heat of -summer. The route to the northward, though bad, appeared to present the -best road. - -Obviously, if it was practicable, the river presented the easiest -passage through the country, and, in the hope that its difficulties had -been exaggerated, Captain Clark set out to inspect its channel. Passing -as far down the river as he could, the leader convinced himself that it -was useless to attempt its passage. Game was scarce, and for food the -party depended almost entirely on the salmon which they could purchase -from the Indians, and which in some cases were freely given them. The -Shoshoni Indians led a miserable life, depending chiefly on salmon and -roots. They ventured out on the buffalo plain to kill and dry the meat, -though continually in fear of the Pahkees, “or the roving Indians of -the Sascatchawan,” who sometimes followed them even into the mountains. -These Pahkees were undoubtedly the Piegan tribe of Blackfeet, known for -many years as bitter enemies of the Snakes. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -LEWIS AND CLARK - -IV - - -By the end of August the explorers, having procured a number of horses, -set to work to make saddles, cache their extra baggage, and set out for -their journey north and west. The way led them over rough mountains, -often without a trail. They were fortunate in having an old Indian as -guide, but met much cold weather, and found the country barren of game. -However, after two or three days of very difficult travel, they came -upon a camp of friendly Indians, who fed them. These people professed -to be an offshoot of the Tushepaw tribe, had plenty of horses, and were -fairly well provided. They told them that down the great river was a -large fall, near which lived white people, who supplied them with beads -and brass wire. Not long after this they met the first Chopunnish, or -Pierced-nose Indians, whom we know to-day as Nez Percés. They were -friendly, and were treated as other tribes had been. - -Although the explorers had had one satisfying meal, yet food was very -scarce, and the Indians subsisted as best they might on the few salmon -still remaining in the streams, which they shared with the white men. -The privations suffered recently were making them weak; many were sick; -and it was so necessary to husband their strength that Captain Clark -determined to make the remaining journey by water. Canoes were built, -and the thirty-eight horses were branded and turned over to three -Indians to care for until the explorers returned. Provisions for the -trip were difficult to obtain. On the morning of October 7 they started -down Lewis River without two of the Nez Percé chiefs who had promised -to go with them. Indian encampments were numerous along the river, but -food continued very scarce, and their only supply consisted of roots, -which they got from the Indians. Later they bought some dogs from the -Nez Percés for food, and were laughed at by the Indians, who did not -eat dogs. The Nez Percés during summer and autumn occupied themselves -in fishing for salmon and collecting roots and berries, while in -winter they hunted the deer on snow-shoes, and toward spring crossed -the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of trading for buffalo -robes. They appeared very different from the kindly Shoshoni; they were -selfish and avaricious, and expected a reward for every service and a -full price for every article they parted with. - -Although it was now drawing toward mid-October, the weather continued -warm. Progress down the stream was rapid, though more so in appearance -than in reality, owing to the river’s bends. On the bank of the -stream, at a large Indian camp where they stopped October 11, a novel -form of sweat-house was observed. Earth was banked up on three sides -against a cut-bank at the river’s edge, and the Indians, descending -through the roof, which was covered with brush and earth, except for -a small aperture, took down their hot stones and vessels of water and -bathed here. - -They were now approaching the camp of a different nation of Indians, -who had been warned of the coming of the party by the two chiefs who -had gone before, and they began to receive visits from men who had come -up the stream to satisfy the curiosity excited by the reports. When -they reached the camp they were hospitably received, and the usual -council was held, accompanied by distribution of presents and medals. -Here they obtained from the Indians some dogs, a few fish, and a little -dried horse-flesh. This was at the junction of the Lewis River and the -Columbia; and the Indians, who called themselves Sokulks, seemed a -mild and peaceable people, living in a state of comparative happiness. -The men appeared to have but one wife, old age was respected, and the -people were agreeable to deal with. Their support was largely fish, to -which were added roots and the flesh of the antelope. They were chiefly -canoe people, and possessed but few horses. - -Here Captain Clark, while ascending the Columbia in a small canoe, -first saw, besides the captured fish drying on scaffolds, “immense -numbers of salmon strewed along the shore, or floating on the surface -of the water.” At the Indian villages that he passed he was hospitably -received, and here first the sage grouse, called a “prairie cock, a -bird of the pheasant kind, of about the size of a small turkey,” was -captured. - -Proceeding down the Columbia a few days’ journey, an interesting -incident took place. “As Captain Clark arrived at the lower end of the -rapid before any, except one of the small canoes, he sat down on a -rock to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across the river, shot -it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been before this passing -on the opposite side toward the rapids, and some who were then nearly -in front of him, being either alarmed at his appearance or the report -of the gun, fled to their homes. Captain Clark was afraid that these -people had not yet heard that the white men were coming, and therefore, -in order to allay their uneasiness before the rest of the party should -arrive, he got into the small canoe with three men, rowed over toward -the houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, which fell into the -water. As he approached no person was to be seen, except three men in -the plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the shore. He landed -in front of five houses close to each other, but no one appeared, and -the doors, which were of mat, were closed. He went toward one of them -with a pipe in his hand, and, pushing aside the mat, entered the lodge, -where he found thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, with a few -children, all in the greatest consternation; some hanging down their -heads, others crying and wringing their hands. He went up to them -and shook hands with each one in the most friendly manner; but their -apprehensions, which had for a moment subsided, revived on his taking -out a burning-glass, as there was no roof to the house, and lighting -his pipe. He then offered it to several of the men, and distributed -among the women and children some small trinkets which he had with him, -and gradually restored a degree of tranquility among them. Leaving -this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, he entered -a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than those in the -first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into the -other houses, where the men had been equally successful. Retiring from -the houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned to some of the -men to come and smoke with him, but none of them ventured to join him -till the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately explained -our pacific intentions toward them. Soon after the interpreter’s wife -landed, and her presence dissipated all doubts of our being well -disposed, since in this country no woman ever accompanies a war party; -they therefore all came out, and seemed perfectly reconciled; nor -could we, indeed, blame them for their terrors, which were perfectly -natural. They told the two chiefs that they knew we were not men, for -they had seen us fall from the clouds. In fact, unperceived by them, -Captain Clark had shot the white crane, which they had seen fall -just before he appeared to their eyes; the duck which he had killed -also fell close by him, and as there were some clouds flying over -at the moment, they connected the fall of the birds with his sudden -appearance, and believed that he had himself actually dropped from the -clouds, considering the noise of the rifle, which they had never heard -before, the sound announcing so extraordinary an event. This belief was -strengthened, when, on entering the room, he brought down fire from the -heavens by means of his burning-glass. We soon convinced them, however, -that we were merely mortals, and after one of our chiefs had explained -our history and objects, we all smoked together in great harmony.” - -Below this, other Indian villages were passed, and there was more or -less intercourse between the white men and the Indians. On the 20th -an island was visited, one end of which was devoted to the burial of -the dead. The passage down the river continued to be more or less -interrupted by rapids and falls, about which they were obliged to make -portages. All the Indians seemed to be friendly, and seemed also to be -in great dread of the Snake Indians, with whom they were constantly at -war. - -Here is described the method of certain tribes of preparing fish, by -drying, and pounding it fine, and then placing it in a basket lined -with skin of the salmon, and covering the top of the basket with skins. -Fish prepared in this way would keep sound and sweet for years. It was -an article of trade between these people and those farther down the -river, who eagerly purchased it. The preparation seems to have been the -equivalent of the pemmican, made of flesh, and so extensively used on -the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains. - -The rapids which they constantly encountered greatly delayed them, and -sometimes the contents of one or more boats were soaked by being upset -or by shipping water. Food was scarce, and they continued to purchase -dogs for provisions. October 24 a change was noticed in the actions -of the Indians, who seemed more suspicious than usual and approached -the travellers with more caution. This alarmed the two Indian chiefs -who had come with them down the river, and they wished to leave the -party and return to their own country. However, they were persuaded to -remain two nights longer, since they had proved most useful in quieting -the fears of the different tribes met with and inspiring them with -confidence in the white people. - -A little later they met Indians, some of whom wore white men’s -clothing, said to have been obtained from people farther down the -stream, and who had also a musket, a cutlass, and several brass -kettles. A chief who had some white men’s clothing exhibited to the -travellers, as trophies, fourteen dried forefingers, which he told -them had belonged to enemies whom he had killed in fighting, to -the south-east. At a burial-place were deposited brass kettles and -frying-pans with holes in the bottoms. The making holes in these -vessels, which were to contain liquid, was, of course, for the purpose -of “killing” the vessel, that it might be useful to the spirit who -was to use it in another life. Not very far below this they first met -the wappato, a word now firmly established in the vernacular of the -Northwest; it is the root of the plant _Sagittaria_, well known as an -excellent food for human beings, and eagerly eaten by wild-fowl. The -Indians with whom the explorers now came in contact were troublesome -mortals, very presuming, and disposed to take anything that was left -about. They possessed still more articles of white men’s manufacture, -some having muskets and pistols. Below the mouth of the Coweliske River -they found an Indian who spoke a few words of English, and he gave them -the name of the principal person who traded with them--a Mr. Haley. - -The river was now growing wider; there were great numbers of -water-fowl; and on the afternoon of November 7 the fog suddenly cleared -away and they saw the ocean, the object of all their labors, the -reward of all their anxiety. The weather was almost constantly rainy, -and they were continually wet. There were numerous villages along the -river, and these were to be avoided, because, like all Indian villages -recently passed, they were terribly infested by fleas. Among the wild -fowl killed in this locality were a goose and two canvasback ducks. The -sea was heavy in this mouth of the river, and the motion so great that -several of the men became sea-sick. They landed in the bay, but the -hills came down so steeply to the water’s edge that there was no room -for them to make a satisfactory camp nor to secure the baggage above -high water. However, they raised the baggage on poles and spent a most -uncomfortable night. For some days now they camped on the beach, wet, -cold, and comfortless, with nothing but dried fish to satisfy their -hunger. Hunters sent out failed to bring in any game, but they bought -a few fresh fish from the Indians. On the 15th of November, however, -the sun came out, and they were able to dry their merchandise; and, the -wind falling, they loaded their canoes, and after proceeding a short -distance found a sand beach, where they made a comfortable camp. This -was in full view of the ocean, quite on the route traversed by the -Indians, many of whom visited them; and there was more or less game in -the neighborhood, for the hunters brought in two deer, some geese and -ducks, and a crane. - -It was now almost winter, and the travellers began to look out for a -place where they might build their winter camp. The Indians reported -deer and elk reasonably abundant on the opposite side of the bay; but, -on the other hand, the explorers wished to be near the ocean, that -they might provide themselves with salt, and also for the chance of -meeting some of the trading vessels, which were expected in the course -of the next two or three months. The rain continued and the hunters -were unsuccessful. A diet of dried fish was making the men ill, and the -prospects were not bright. However, on the 2d of December, one of the -hunters killed an elk, the first taken on the west side of the Rocky -Mountains; and we may imagine how much its flesh was enjoyed after the -long diet of roots and fish. And now for some time deer and elk were -killed in great abundance; but the continued wet weather caused much -of the flesh to spoil. The Indians seemed to be taking a good many -salmon--presumably in the salt water of the bay--and they had many -berries. - -Christmas and New Year’s passed, and in the first days of January -there came the news that a whale had been cast up on the beach. All -the Indians hurried to it; and following them went Captain Clark and -some of the men, and with them Chaboneau and his wife, the latter -extremely anxious to venture to the edge of the salt water and to see -the enormous “fish” which had come ashore. The skeleton of the whale -measured one hundred and five feet in length. - -“While smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was startled about ten -o’clock by a loud, shrill cry from the opposite village, on hearing -which all the natives immediately started up to cross the creek, and -the guide informed him that some one had been killed. On examination, -one of our men was discovered to be absent, and a guard was despatched, -who met him crossing the creek in great haste. An Indian belonging to -another band, and who happened to be with the Killamucks that evening, -had treated him with much kindness, and walked arm in arm with him to a -tent, where our man found a Chinnook squaw who was an old acquaintance. -From the conversation and manner of the stranger, this woman discovered -that his object was to murder the white man for the sake of the few -articles on his person; and when he rose and pressed our man to go to -another tent, where they would find something better to eat, she held -McNeal by the blanket. Not knowing her object, he freed himself from -her, and was going on with his pretended friend, when she ran out -and gave a shriek which brought the men of the village over, and the -stranger ran off before McNeal knew what had occasioned the alarm.” - -With a small load of blubber and oil, the party returned to the fort, -where they found that game was still being killed, and endeavored to -jerk some of it. Much is said in the journal about the various Indian -tribes of the neighborhood, their method of hunting and fishing, their -habitations, and their dress and implements. The canoes, and the skill -in managing them, excited the unfeigned admiration of the white men; -and the fact that such canoes could be constructed by people without -axes, and armed only with a chisel, made of an old file, about an inch -or an inch and a half in width, seemed to them very extraordinary. It -was noted that some of the Indians, especially the women, appeared to -tattoo the legs and arms; and on the arm of one woman was read the name -J. Bowman; perhaps some trader who had visited the locality. Among -these people women were very well treated, and old age was highly -respected. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -LEWIS AND CLARK - -V - - -The winter was spent chiefly in procuring food and in observing -the natives and the geography of the neighboring country, and the -expedition had not expected to leave their permanent camp, Fort -Clatsop, before the first of April. By the first of March, however, the -elk, on which they chiefly depended for food, had moved away to ascend -the mountains, and their trade goods being almost exhausted, they -were too poor to purchase food from the Indians. It was evident that -they must start back up the river, in the hope of there finding food, -and must reach the point where they had left their horses before the -Indians there should have moved off across the mountains or dispersed -over the country. - -During the winter they had worked hard at dressing skins, so that they -were now well clad, and had besides three or four hundred pairs of -moccasins. They still had also one hundred and forty pounds of powder -and about twice that weight of lead, quite enough to carry them back. - -On the 23d of March, therefore, after giving certificates to some of -the Indian chiefs, and leaving tacked up on one of their cabins a -notice of their successful crossing of the continent and their start -back, they set out in two canoes up the Columbia. As they passed along -they at first found little difficulty in securing provisions from the -acquaintances they had made while descending the river; and besides -this, the hunters killed some game. Before long, however, they began -to meet Indians coming down the river who informed them that they had -been driven from the Great Rapids by lack of provisions, their winter -store of dried fish having become exhausted, and the salmon not being -expected for a month or more. This was dismal news to people who were -ascending the river in the hope of obtaining provisions, but there was -nothing for them to do except to keep on, living on the country as well -as they could, trying to reach the place where they had left their -horses before the Indians should have departed. Their hunters succeeded -in killing some deer and elk on the south side of the river, though -there seemed no game on the north. Besides that, the deer killed were -so extremely thin in flesh that it hardly seemed worth while to bring -them into camp. - -Many of the Indians still stood in great fear of the “medicine” of -the white men; and Captain Clark, returning from a short exploring -trip, saw an example of this. “On entering one of the apartments of -the house, Captain Clark offered several articles to the Indians in -exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared sullen and ill-humored, and -refused to give him any. He therefore sat down by the fire opposite to -the men, and, drawing a portfire match from his pocket, threw a small -piece of it into the flames; at the same time he took out his pocket -compass, and by means of a magnet which happened to be in his inkhorn, -made the needle turn round very briskly. The match immediately took -fire, and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this -strange exhibition, brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid it at his -feet, begging him to put out the bad fire; while an old woman continued -to speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring protection. -After receiving the roots, Captain Clark put up the compass, and, as -the match went out of itself, tranquillity was restored, though the -women and children still sought refuge in their beds and behind the -men. He now paid them for what he had used, and, after lighting his -pipe and smoking with them, continued down the river.” - -The hunters still were killing some game, but it was so thin as to -be unfit for use; six deer and an elk were left in the timber, while -two deer and a bear were brought in. The wappatoo was now largely the -food of all the Indians. The bulb, which grows in all the ponds of the -interior, is gathered by the women, who, standing in deep water, feel -about in the mud for the roots of the plant and detach the bulbs with -their toes; these rise to the surface and are thrown into the canoe. -The roots are like a small potato and are light and very nutritious. - -A few days later they obtained from the Indians the skin of a “sheep” -(mountain goat), which is described so that there is no doubt about -the identification. The hunters also killed three black-tailed deer. -Near Sepulcher Rock, a burial-place for the surrounding tribes, Captain -Clark crossed the river in the endeavor to purchase a few horses, by -which they might transport their baggage and some provisions across the -mountains, but in this he was unsuccessful. However, some Indians were -met, who promised a little later to meet them and furnish some horses. -At the foot of the Great Narrows four were purchased to assist in -carrying the baggage and the outfit over the portage. - -The Indians at the upper end were rejoicing over the catching of -the first salmon; and they were so good-natured that they sold the -white men four more horses for two kettles, which reduced the stock -of kettles to one. There was a good deal of trouble here from thefts -by the Indians, and from their practice of trading articles and -then returning and giving back the price that they had received and -demanding articles that had been traded. So annoying did this become, -that Captain Clark declared to the Indians in council assembled that -the next man caught thieving would be shot; and a little bit later -he was obliged to threaten to burn the village. At last, however, -they got away, with ten horses, and proceeding up the river secured -a few others. By this time they had exhausted pretty much all their -trade goods, and the capacity to buy was about at an end. The Indian -tribes that they were passing now did not seem to be particularly -friendly and held themselves aloof; but a chief of the Walla Wallas, -whom they met a little later, treated them most hospitably, and in -striking contrast to the people that they had lately seen. This chief -presented Captain Clark with a fine horse, and received in return a -sword, one hundred balls, some powder, and some other small presents. -The chief helped them cross the river in his canoes, and they camped -on the Columbia, at the mouth of the Walla Walla River. They now -possessed twenty-three horses, and on the whole were in pretty good -shape, except that they had but little food and had nothing left which -they could trade for food. About the first of May they met a party of -Indians, consisting of one of the chiefs of the Nez Percés who had gone -down Lewis River with them the previous year and had been of great -service to them, and had now come to meet them. They were now out of -provisions, but at an Indian camp not far off managed to obtain two -lean dogs and some roots. As they went on they learned that most of the -Nez Percés were scattered out gathering spring roots, but the Indian in -whose charge their horses had been left was not far away. - -At this point the explorers were applied to by two or three persons who -were ill, and their simple treatment benefiting the Indians, their fame -greatly increased. The white men were careful to give the Indians only -harmless medicine, trying to assist nature rather than to do anything -that was radical. The Indians who had been benefited gave material -evidence of their gratitude. - -Since they had been on the Columbia River the Indians had made great -fun of the white men because they ate dogs, and it was just after -their experience in doctoring, but at another village, that “an Indian -standing by, and looking with great derision at our eating dog’s flesh, -threw a poor half-starved puppy almost into Captain Lewis’s plate, -laughing heartily at the humor of it. Captain Lewis took up the animal -and flung it back with great force into the fellow’s face, and seizing -his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if he dared to repeat such -insolence. He immediately withdrew, apparently much mortified, and we -continued our dog repast very quietly.” Continuing their journey, they -were again applied to for medical advice and assistance, but declined -to practice without remuneration. One or two small operations were -performed, and a woman who had been treated, declaring the next day -that she felt much better, her husband brought up a horse, which they -at once killed. - -Having crossed the river, on the advice of the Indians that more game -was to be found, they kept on their way, and the day after the hunters -brought in four deer, which, with the remains of the horse, gave them -for the moment an abundant supply of food. Here they met Twisted Hair, -in whose charge they had left their horses. He told them that, owing -to the care that he had taken of their horses, he had been obliged to -quarrel with other chiefs, who were jealous of him, and that finally -he had given up the care of the horses, which were now scattered. They -soon recovered twenty-one of their horses--most of which were in good -condition--a part of their saddles, and some powder and lead which had -been put in the cache with them. The Indians gave them two fat young -horses for food, asking nothing in return, and the hospitality and -generosity of these Indians made a great impression on the white men, -who were now disposed to treat them with a great deal more courtesy and -consideration than had been their custom. Captain Lewis at this meeting -is quite enthusiastic about these Chopunnish Indians, whom he describes -as industrious, cleanly, and generous--a report quite different from -that made on the way down the river. - -At the village where they camped May 11, the Indians lived in a single -house, one hundred and fifty feet long, built of sticks, straw, and -dried grass. It contained about twenty-four fires, about double that -number of families, and might muster, perhaps, one hundred fighting -men. The difficulty of talking to these Indians was great, for Captains -Lewis and Clark were obliged to speak in English to one of the men, who -translated this in French to Chaboneau, who interpreted to his wife -in Minnetari; she told it in Shoshoni to a young Shoshoni prisoner, -who finally explained it to the Nez Percés in their own tongue. After -the council was over, the wonders of the compass, the spy-glass, the -magnet, the watch, and the air-gun were all shown to the Indians. Here -they were obliged also to do a good deal of doctoring, and finally -another council was held, at which it was agreed by the Indians to -follow the advice of Captains Lewis and Clark. Presents were made by -the Indians to the whites, and to each chief was given a flag, a -pound of powder, and fifty balls, and the same to the young men who -had presented horses to them. They also paid the man who had charge of -their horses, in part, agreeing with him to give the balance so soon as -the remainder of the horses were brought in. - -On the 14th of May they crossed the river and made a camp, where they -purposed to wait until the snow had melted in the mountains. The -hunters killed two bears and some small game, much of which they gave -to the Indians, to whom it was a great treat, since they seldom had a -taste of flesh. Many patients continued to be brought to them, whom -they doctored, and with some success. - -Early in June they began to make preparations to cross the mountains, -though the Indians told them it would be impossible to do this before -about the first of July. They were now well provided with animals, -each man having a good riding horse, with a second horse for a pack, -and some loose horses to be used in case of accident or for food. The -salmon had not yet come up the river. They started on the 15th of June -in a rain, and on the way found three deer, which their hunters had -killed. They soon began to climb the mountains, and before long found -themselves travelling over hard snow, which bore up their horses well; -but it was evident that the journey would be too long to make, since -for several days’ travel there would be no food for the animals. So -they were obliged to turn back and wait for the warmer weather. - -Two men who had been sent back to the Indian village to hurry up the -Indians who had promised to cross the mountains with them, and make -peace with the Indians on the upper Missouri, returned with three -Indians who agreed to go with them to the falls of the Missouri. A -little later they started again, usually keeping on the divide, in -order to head all streams and not cross any running water. The country -was completely covered with snow. On the 26th of June they camped high -up on the mountains, where there was good food for the horses. The -travelling was pleasant, the snow hard. Their provisions had now about -given out, however, except that they still had some roots; but now and -then a deer was killed, which kept them from absolute starvation. - -By July 1 they had reached a country where game was quite abundant, -deer, elk, and big-horn being plenty in the neighborhood. It was -determined to divide the party and to cover more country on the return -than they had when coming out. Captain Lewis, with nine men, was to go -to the falls of the Missouri, leave three men there to prepare carts -for transporting baggage and canoes across the portage, and with the -remaining six to ascend Maria’s River and explore the country there. -The remainder of the party were to go to the head of the Jefferson -River, where nine men under Sergeant Ordway should descend it with the -canoes. Captain Clark’s party was to go to the Yellowstone, there build -canoes, and go down that river with seven men; while Sergeant Pryor, -with two others, should take the horses overland to the Mandans, and -thence go north to the British posts on the Assiniboine and induce -Mr. Henry to persuade some of the Sioux chiefs to go with him to -Washington. This plan was carried out. - -Captain Lewis kept on to the Dearborn River. This was a good game -country and they made rapid progress, and before long found themselves -at their old station, White Bear Island. During the flood of the river -the water had entered their cache and spoiled much of their property. -They had much trouble here with lost horses, and one of their men, -riding suddenly upon a bear, his horse wheeled and threw him, and the -bear drove him up a tree where he was kept all day. - -Captain Lewis now started to explore the Maria’s River, and, following -it up, almost reached the foot of the Rocky Mountains. Here they met a -band of Indians, who stated that they were Gros Ventres of the Prairie, -or, as Lewis and Clark put it, Minnetari of Fort de Prairie, and who, -after some hesitation, appeared to be friendly enough, and smoked with -Captain Lewis. They expressed themselves as willing to be at peace -with the Indians across the mountains, but said that those Indians had -lately killed a number of their relations. Captain Lewis kept a very -close watch, fearing that the Indians would steal his horses. This did -not happen, but on the following day, July 27, the Indians seized the -rifles of four of the party. As soon as Fields and his brother saw -the Indian running off with their two rifles they pursued him, and, -overtaking him, stabbed him through the heart with a knife. The other -guns were recovered without killing any of the Indians; but as they -were trying to drive off the horses, Captain Lewis ordered the men to -follow up the main party, who were driving the horses, and shoot them. -He himself ran after two other Indians, who were driving away another -bunch of horses, and so nearly overtook them that they left twelve -of their own animals but continued to drive off one belonging to the -white men. Captain Lewis had now run as far as he could, and calling to -the Indians several times that unless they gave up the horse he would -shoot, he finally did so, and killed an Indian. The other men now began -to come up, having recovered a considerable number of the horses; they -had lost one of their own horses and captured four belonging to the -Indians. They now retreated down the river with the horses that they -had, but took nothing from the Indians’ camp. - -These Indians were probably not Gros Ventres, as stated in the Lewis -and Clark journal. Precisely the same story was told me in the year -1888 by the oldest Indian in the Blackfoot camp, as having been -witnessed by him in his boyhood on Birch Creek, a branch of the -Maria’s. Wolf Calf, the narrator, was considered much the oldest Indian -in the Piegan camp, and was supposed to be more than ninety-five years -old. The Indian killed by Fields was named Side Hill Calf. He said that -he was a boy with the Indian war party. - -Captain Lewis, believing that they would be promptly pursued by a -much larger party of Indians and attacked, at once began a retreat. -The Indian horses which had been captured proved good ones, the -plains were level, and they rode hard for more than eighty miles, only -stopping twice to kill a buffalo and to rest their horses. They stopped -at two o’clock in the morning, and at daylight started on again, and at -last when they reached the Missouri they heard the report of a gun, and -then a number of reports and before long had the satisfaction of seeing -their friends going down the river. They landed, and Captain Lewis’s -party, after turning loose the horses, embarked, with the baggage, -and kept on down the stream. Before long they met Sergeants Gass and -Willard, who were bringing down horses from the falls, and now the -whole party had come together, except Captain Clark’s outfit, which had -gone down the Yellowstone. - -The journey down the Missouri was quickly made, and at the mouth of the -Yellowstone a note was found from Captain Clark, who had gone on before -them. Not far below this Captain Lewis, while hunting elk on a willow -grove sand-bar, was shot in the thigh by his companion, Cruzatte, who -apparently mistook him for an elk, he being clad in buckskin. At first -Captain Lewis thought that they had been attacked by Indians, but no -signs of Indians being found, the conclusion that Cruzatte had shot -him, apparently by mistake, seemed inevitable. On August 12 they met -Captain Clark’s party, whose adventures had been much less startling -than theirs. His party had started up Wisdom River, on the west side -of the mountains, and, crossing over to the head of the Jefferson, had -passed through a beautiful country--the Beaverhead--very lovely in its -surroundings, with fertile soil, and abounding in game. - -Most of the party had gone down the river in canoes, but a few men -had been left on the land to drive down the horses. A part of these, -under Sergeant Ordway, kept on down the river, while at the mouth -of the Madison, Captain Clark, with ten men and the wife and child -of Chaboneau, taking the fifty horses, crossed over to go to the -Yellowstone and descend it. When they reached the Yellowstone, they -followed it down for some little time, through a country abounding in -buffalo, deer, and elk. Very likely they would have gone on farther -but for an accident to one of the men, who was so badly hurt that he -could not sit on his horse. Small timber being found, canoes were -constructed, which were lashed together and loaded preparatory to -setting out. While all this was being done, twenty-four of their horses -disappeared, and a little search showed a piece of rope and a moccasin, -which made it clear that the horses had been run off by the Indians. -Sergeant Pryor, with two men, was ordered to take the remaining horses -down the river to the mouth of the Bighorn, where they could cross and -from there he was to take them to the Mandans. The canoes which went on -down the river passed various streams, and at one point came upon what -appeared to have been a medicine lodge of the Blackfeet. At a stream -to which they gave the name of Horse Creek, they found Pryor with his -animals. He had had much trouble in driving the horses, since, as many -of them had been used by the Indians in hunting buffalo, whenever -they saw a bunch of buffalo they would set off in pursuit of them. To -prevent this, Sergeant Pryor was obliged to send one man ahead of the -horse herd to drive away the buffalo. - -From the top of Pompey’s Pillar Captain Clark had a wide and beautiful -prospect over the country, dotted everywhere by herds of buffalo, elk, -and wolves. Bighorn were abundant here and farther down the stream, -and the noise of the buffalo--for this was now the rutting season--was -continuous. The large herds of elk were so gentle that they might be -approached within twenty paces without being alarmed. The abundance of -buffalo was so great that the travellers were in great fear, either -that they would come into their camp at night and destroy their boats -by trampling on them, or that the herds, which were constantly crossing -the river, would upset the boats. Bears, also, were very abundant, -and quite as fierce as they had been on the Missouri. Captain Clark -killed one, the largest female that they had seen, and so old that the -canine teeth had been worn quite smooth. Mosquitoes here were terribly -abundant; several times, it is said, they alighted on the rifle barrels -in such numbers that it was impossible to take sight. - -On August 8 they were joined by Sergeant Pryor and his men, who had no -horses; every one of them had been taken off the second day after they -left the party by Indians. They followed them for a short distance, -but without overtaking them; and finally coming back to the river, -built two row-boats, in which they came down the stream with the utmost -safety and comfort. On the 11th of August they met two trappers who -had left Illinois in the summer of 1804, and had spent the following -winter with the Tetons, where they had robbed and swindled a French -trader out of all his goods. They told Captain Clark that the Mandans -and Minnetaris were at war with the Arikaras, and had killed two of -them, and also that the Assiniboines were at war with the Mandans, news -which could not have been very pleasing to the explorers, whose efforts -on their way up the river had been so strong for peace. - -The party having come together on August 12, they kept on down the -river, and two days later reached the village of the Mandans. Here -they had protracted councils with the Mandans and Minnetaris, and -tried hard to persuade some of them to go on with them to Washington. -Colter applied to the commanding officers for permission to join the -two trappers who had come down the river to this point, and he was -accordingly discharged, supplied with powder and lead, and a number of -other articles which might be useful to him. The next day he started -back up the river. What Colter’s subsequent adventures were is well -known to any one who has followed the course of early exploration in -the West. Colter’s Hell, if we recollect right, was the first name ever -applied to the geyser basins of the Yellowstone Park. - -Though the Mandans and Minnetaris were as friendly and hospitable as -possible, and gave them great stores of corn, none of the principal men -would consent to go to Washington. They promised, however, to be more -attentive to the requests of the white men, to keep the peace with -their neighbors, and were greatly pleased and proud of the gift to the -chief of the Minnetaris, Le Borgne, of the swivel, for which Captain -Clark no longer had any use, as it could not be discharged from the -canoes on which they were travelling. Here, too, they discharged their -interpreter, Chaboneau, who wished to remain with his wife and child. -One of the chiefs, Big White, consented, with his wife and child, to -accompany the white men. Before the expedition finally left the village -there was a last talk with the Indians, who sent word to the Arikaras -by Captain Clark, inviting them to come up and meet them, and saying -that they really desired peace with the Arikaras, but that they could -place no dependence on anything that the Sioux might say. - -Keeping on down the river, they found game plenty and the mosquitoes -troublesome. At the Arikara village they were well received, and -found there a camp of Cheyennes, also friendly. The Rees expressed -willingness to follow the advice that Captain Clark had given them, -but made many excuses for the failure to follow their counsels of the -year before. The Cheyenne chief invited the white men to his lodge, -and Captain Clark presented a medal to the chief, to that individual’s -great alarm, for he feared that it was “medicine” and might in some way -harm him. The Cheyennes are described as friendly and well-disposed, -though shy. - -The trip down the river was unmarked by adventure. Enormous quantities -of buffalo were seen, and on the 30th of August they came upon a party -of Teton Sioux, under a chief called Black Bull. Other Sioux were seen, -and on September 3 they came to the trading post of a Mr. James Airs, -who presented each of the party with as much tobacco as he could use -for the rest of the voyage, and also gave them a barrel of flour. Below -the mouth of the Big Sioux River they passed Floyd’s grave, which they -found had been opened. Two days later they passed the trading post of -one of the Choteaus and a little later the Platte, and at last, on -September 20, reached the little village of La Charette. On September -23 they reached St. Louis and went on shore, where they received “a -most hearty and hospitable welcome from the whole village.” - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -ZEBULON M. PIKE - -I - - -Side by side in fact--though by no means in popular estimation--with -the heroic explorers, Lewis and Clark, stands Zebulon M. Pike, the -young soldier, who first reached the sources of the Mississippi, later -those of the Arkansas, and who was one of the first genuine Americans -to see the Spanish City of the Holy Faith. Born in New Jersey in 1779, -Pike entered the army in his father’s regiment about the year 1794. -In July, 1805, a lieutenant, he was detailed, by order of General -James Wilkinson, to explore the sources of the Mississippi. From this -expedition he returned in 1806, and shortly afterward set out on an -expedition up the Kansas River to the country of the Osages, and thence -to the Kitkahahk village of the Pawnees, then on the Republican River. -From here he went westward to the sources of the Arkansas River, in -what is now Colorado. On this expedition he approached Santa Fé, was -captured by the Spaniards, and escorted south through Mexico and what -is now Texas to the Spanish-American boundary on the borders of the -present State of Louisiana, where he was set free. - -It would be perhaps difficult to point out, since Revolutionary times, -a more heroic figure than that of Pike, or to name a man who did -more for his country. It is chiefly as an explorer that we must now -consider him, and must briefly tell the history of his journeyings -for two years through that country which was then Louisiana; yet his -subsequent and involuntary wanderings through Mexico and Texas cannot -be separated from his earlier travels. Some time after his return from -the Southwest, he wrote a book, which was issued four years before the -journal of Lewis and Clark. In reviewing his life of exploration, we -shall in large measure let him tell his own story. - -On the 9th of August, 1805, with one sergeant, two corporals, and -seventeen privates, Pike started from St. Louis up the Mississippi -River in a keel boat seventy feet long and provisioned for four months. -The water was swift, the way hard, and they had much foul weather, -which held them back, and made their days and nights uncomfortable. -Occasionally they saw fishing camps of Indians, and passed the farms of -some Frenchmen, lately transferred without their knowledge or consent -from allegiance to old France to citizenship in the new United States. - -[Illustration: LIEUTENANT ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, MONUMENT AT COLORADO -SPRINGS, COLORADO.] - -One of Pike’s especial duties was to conciliate the Indians he -met, and, so far as possible, to arrange for peace between warring -aboriginal tribes. On the 20th he came to a Sac village, where he had a -talk with the Indians, who listened to him respectfully, and appeared -to agree to what he said. Further along he met villages of the -Reynards, or Foxes, showing that at this time the Sacs and Foxes were -living separately, though allies. - -The way was long, and progress, though often covering thirty or forty -miles a day, was slow, owing to the windings of the river. Pike was -now approaching that debatable land over which the Sioux and Sauteurs -or Ojibwas were continually fighting backward and forward. He tells of -meeting, September 1, Monsieur Dubuque, who told him that these tribes -were then engaged in active hostilities, and, among other things, that -a war party “composed of Sacs, Reynards, and Puants (Winnebagoes), -of 200 warriors, had embarked on an expedition against the Sauteurs, -but they had heard that the chief, having had an unfavorable dream, -persuaded the party to return, and that I would meet them on my -voyage.” This is interesting, as showing that at this time the Sacs -and Foxes, who are of Algonquin stock, had allied themselves with the -Winnebagoes of Siouan stock against people of the latter race. - -Indians were abundant here, and were always on the lookout for -enemies. The firing of guns by Pike’s party, who had landed to shoot -wild pigeons, was the signal for some Indians in the neighborhood to -rush to their canoes and hastily embark. Indeed, Pike was told that -all the Indians had a dread of Americans, whom they believed to be -very quarrelsome, very brave, and very much devoted to going to war; -a reputation which had undoubtedly reached the savages through the -English and French traders. - -A little further along, the Ouisconsing River was reached, and they -met the Fols Avoin Indians, the Menominees, a tribe still existing at -Green Bay, Wisconsin. Further on he had a meeting with a number of -Sioux and Pike reports the council: - -“On the arrival opposite the lodges, the men were paraded on the bank -with their guns in their hands. They saluted us with ball with what -might be termed three rounds; which I returned with three rounds from -each boat with my blunderbusses. This salute, although nothing to -soldiers accustomed to fire, would not be so agreeable to many people; -as the Indians had all been drinking, and as some of them even tried -their dexterity, to see how near the boat they could strike. They may, -indeed, be said to have struck on every side of us. When landed, I had -my pistols in my belt and sword in hand. I was met on the bank by the -chief, and invited to his lodge. As soon as my guards were formed and -sentinels posted, I accompanied him. Some of my men who were going up -with me I caused to leave their arms behind as a mark of confidence. At -the chief’s lodge I found a clean mat and pillow for me to sit on, and -the before-mentioned pipe on a pair of small crutches before me. The -chief sat on my right hand, my interpreter and Mr. Frazer on my left. -After smoking, the chief spoke to the following purport. - -“‘That notwithstanding he had seen me at the Prairie (du Chien), he was -happy to take me by the hand among his own people, and there show his -young men the respect due to their new father (President Jefferson). -That, when at St. Louis in the spring, his father (General Wilkinson) -had told him that if he looked down the river he would see one of his -young warriors (Pike) coming up. He now found it true, and he was happy -to see me, who knew the Great Spirit was the father of all, both the -white and the red people; and if one died the other could not live -long. That he had never been at war with their new father, and hoped -always to preserve the same understanding that now existed. That he now -presented me with a pipe, to show to the upper bands as a token of our -good understanding, and that they might see his work and imitate his -conduct. That he had gone to St. Louis on a shameful visit, to carry a -murderer; but that we had given the man his life, and he thanked us for -it. That he had provided something to eat, but he supposed I could not -eat it, and if not, to give it to my young men.’ - -“I replied: ‘That although I had told him at the Prairie my business -up the Mississippi, I would again relate it to him.’ I then mentioned -the different objects I had in view with regard to the savages who had -fallen under our protection by our late purchase from the Spaniards; -the different posts to be established; the objects of these posts as -related to them, supplying them with necessaries, having officers and -agents of Government near them to attend to their business; and above -all, to endeavor to make peace between the Sioux and Sauteurs. ‘That if -it was possible on my return I should bring some of the Sauteurs down -with me, and take with me some of the Sioux chiefs to St. Louis, there -to settle the long and bloody war which had existed between the two -nations. That I accepted his pipe with pleasure, as the gift of a great -man, the chief of four bands, and a brother; that it should be used as -he desired.’ I then eat of the dinner he had provided, which was very -grateful. It was wild rye [rice] and venison, of which I sent four -bowls to my men. - -“I afterward went to a dance, the performance of which was attended -with many curious maneuvers. Men and women danced indiscriminately. -They were all dressed in the gayest manner; each had in the hand a -small skin of some description, and would frequently run up, point -their skin, and give a puff with their breath, when the person blown -at, whether man or woman, would fall, and appear to be almost lifeless, -or in great agony, but would recover slowly, rise, and join in the -dance. This they called their great medicine, or, as I understood the -word, dance of religion, the Indians believing that they actually -puffed something into each others’ bodies which occasioned the falling, -etc. It is not every person who is admitted; persons wishing to join -them must first make valuable presents to the society to the amount of -forty or fifty dollars, give a feast, and then be admitted with great -ceremony. Mr. Frazer informed me that he was once in the lodge with -some young men who did not belong to the club; when one of the dancers -came in they immediately threw their blankets over him and forced him -out of the lodge; he laughed, but the young Indians called him a fool, -and said ‘he did not know what the dancer might blow into his body.’ - -“I returned to my boat, sent for the chief, and presented him with two -carrots of tobacco, four knives, half a pound of vermilion, and one -quart of salt. Mr. Frazer asked liberty to present them some rum; we -made up a keg between us of eight gallons--two gallons of whiskey, the -rest water. Mr. Frazer informed the chief that he dare not give them -any without my permission. The chief thanked me for all my presents, -and said ‘they must come free, as he did not ask for them.’ I replied -that ‘to those who did not ask for anything, I gave freely; but to -those who asked for much, I gave only a little or none.’ - -“We embarked about half-past three o’clock, came three miles, and -camped on the west side. Mr. Frazer we left behind, but he came up with -his two peroques about dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In the -night a peroque arrived from the lodges at his camp. During our stay -at their camp there were soldiers appointed to keep the crowd from -my boats, who executed their duty with vigilance and rigor, driving -men, women, and children back whenever they came near my boats. At -my departure, their soldiers said, ‘As I had shaken hands with their -chief, they must shake hands with my soldiers.’ In which request I -willingly indulged them.” - -Pike was now journeying through the country passed over forty years -before by Carver, and he was evidently familiar with his journeyings. -Of La Crosse prairie he says: - -“On this prairie Mr. Frazer showed me some holes dug by the Sioux when -in expectation of an attack, into which they first put their women -and children, and then crawl themselves. They were generally round -and about ten feet in diameter, but some were half-moons and quite -a breastwork. This I understood was the chief work, which was the -principal redoubt. Their modes of constructing them are, the moment -they apprehend or discover an enemy on the prairie, they commence -digging with their knives, tomahawks, and a wooden ladle; and in an -incredibly short space of time they have a hole sufficiently deep -to cover themselves and their families from the balls or arrows of -the enemy. They (enemies) have no idea of taking these subterraneous -redoubts by storm, as they would probably lose a great number of men -in the attack; and although they might be successful in the event, it -would be considered a very imprudent action.” - -Heretofore but little food had been killed by the expedition, except -pigeons; but they were now getting into a country where there was more -or less game. On September 14, Pike, who had gone ashore with three -others of his party to hunt, saw abundant sign of elk, but failed to -see any of them, though his men saw three from the boat; and from this -time forth more or less mention is made of game by short entries, such -as, “Saw three bear swimming over the river.” “Killed a deer,” “killed -three geese and a raccoon,” and other similar notes. - -On the 23d of September Pike held a council with the Sioux, who, -hearing by a rumor of his arrival in the country, returned from a war -party on which they had set out. He talked with these Sioux, on many -matters of which the principal one was the granting by the Indians of a -site near the Falls of St. Anthony for a military post, as well as the -establishment of peace between the Ojibwas and Sioux. Three important -chiefs named Little Crow, Risen Moose, and the Son of Pinchow, replied, -promising him about a hundred thousand acres of land, as well as a safe -conduct for himself and such Ojibwa chiefs as he might bring back with -him. They were doubtful, however, about the prospects of making a peace -with their old-time enemies. The treaty, or grant, was drawn up and -signed, and the Sioux returned to their homes. - -The following day the flag from Pike’s boat was missing. This he -naturally regarded as a very serious misfortune. He punished his -sentry, and calling up his friend, Risen Moose, told him of the -trouble, and urged him to try to recover the flag, for he was not by -any means sure that it had not been stolen by an Indian. However, the -next day he was called out of bed by Little Crow, some of whose people -had found the flag floating in the water below their village, and -believing that this must mean that the white men had been attacked, -Little Crow had come up to see what the matter was. The appearance of -the flag at Little Crow’s village had put an end to a quarrel which -was in progress between his people and those of a chief called White -Goose. Pike says: “The parties were charging their guns, and preparing -for action, when lo! the flag appeared like a messenger of peace -sent to prevent their bloody purposes. They were all astonished to -see it. The staff was broken. Then Petit Corbeau arose and spoke to -this effect: ‘That a thing so sacred had not been taken from my boat -without violence; that it would be proper for them to hush all private -animosities until they had revenged the cause of their eldest brother; -that he would immediately go up to St. Peter’s to know what dogs had -done that thing, in order to take steps to get satisfaction of those -who had done the mischief.’ They all listened to this reasoning; he -immediately had the flag put out to dry, and embarked for my camp. -I was much concerned to hear of the blood likely to have been shed, -and gave him five yards of blue stroud, three yards of calico, one -handkerchief, one carrot of tobacco, and one knife, in order to make -peace among his people. He promised to send my flag by land to the -falls, and to make peace with Outard Blanche.” The flag was returned -two days later by two young Indians, who had brought it overland. - -It was now October, and clear weather, the thermometer falling -sometimes to zero. Hitherto the principal food killed had been -geese, swans, and prairie chickens; but on October 6 Pike saw his -first elk--two droves of them. As they kept on up the river, geese, -ducks, and grouse, with occasionally a deer, continued to be secured. -Frequently Pike found hanging to the branches of the trees sacrifices -left there by the Indians. These were sometimes bits of cloth, or -articles of clothing, or painted skins. As the weather grew colder, and -ice was often met with, Pike began to think of a place where he should -winter. The boats were becoming very leaky, and the men, terribly -overworked, were losing strength and becoming inefficient. He therefore -determined to make a permanent camp, afterward called Pike’s Fort, and -to leave a part of his men there in blockhouses while he proceeded up -the river; but before the separation took place, there was much to be -done. Happily, the country abounded in game, so that for those who were -to be left behind there would be no danger of starvation. Pike went out -one morning and killed four bears, while his hunters killed three deer. - -Log houses were built, and several small canoes were made for travel -on the river. But after his canoes were launched and loaded, one of -them sank and wet his ammunition, and in endeavoring to dry the powder -in pots he blew up the powder and the tent in which he was working. -It being necessary to build another canoe, Pike again went off to -hunt to a stream where much elk and buffalo sign had been seen. The -day following was spent in hunting, but with very little result; and -the account which Pike gives of it shows how little the explorer and -his party knew about the game that they were pursuing, or the proper -methods of securing it. He says: “I was determined, if we came on a -trail of elk, to follow them a day or two in order to kill one. This, -to a person acquainted with the nature of those animals and the extent -of the prairie in this country, would appear--what it really was--a -very foolish resolution. We soon struck where a herd of one hundred -and fifty had passed; pursued, and came in sight about eight o’clock, -when they appeared, at a distance, like an army of Indians moving along -in single file; a large buck, of at least four feet between the horns, -leading the van, and one of equal magnitude, bringing up the rear. We -followed until near night without once being able to get within point -blank shot. I once made Miller fire at them with his musket at about -four hundred yards’ distance; it had no other effect than to make them -leave us about five miles behind on the prairie. Passed several deer in -the course of the day, which I think we could have killed, but did not -fire for fear of alarming the elk. Finding that it was no easy matter -to kill one, I shot a doe through the body, as I perceived by her -blood where she lay down in the snow; yet, not knowing how to track, -we lost her. Shortly after saw three elk by themselves, near a copse -of woods. Approached near them and broke the shoulder of one, but he -ran off with the other two just as I was about to follow. Saw a buck -deer lying on the grass; shot him between the eyes, when he fell over. -I walked up to him, put my foot on his horns, and examined the shot; -immediately after which he snorted, bounced up, and fell five steps -from me. This I considered his last effort; but soon after, to our -utter astonishment, he jumped up and ran off. He stopped frequently; -we pursued him, expecting him to fall every minute; by which we were -led from the pursuit of the wounded elk. After being wearied out in -this unsuccessful chase, we returned in pursuit of the wounded elk, -and when we came up to the party, found him missing from the flock. -Shot another in the body, but my ball being small, he likewise escaped. -Wounded another deer; when, hungry, cold, and fatigued, after having -wounded three deer and two elk, we were obliged to encamp in a point -of hemlock woods on the head of Clear River. The large herd of elk lay -about one mile from us in the prairie. Our want of success I ascribe to -the smallness of our balls, and to our inexperience in following the -track after wounding the game, for it is very seldom a deer drops on -the spot you shoot it. - -“Sunday, November 3.--Rose pretty early and went in pursuit of the elk. -Wounded one buck deer on the way. We made an attempt to drive them into -the woods, but their leader broke past us, and it appeared as if the -drove would have followed him, though they had been obliged to run over -us. We fired at them passing, but without effect. Pursued them through -the swamp until about ten o’clock, when I determined to attempt to -make the river, and for that purpose took a due south course. Passed -many droves of elk and buffalo, but being in the middle of an immense -prairie, knew it was folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded several -deer but got none. In fact, I knew I could shoot as many deer as -anybody, but neither myself nor company could find one in ten, whereas -one experienced hunter would get all. Near night struck a lake about -five miles long and two miles wide. Saw immense droves of elk on both -banks. About sundown saw a herd crossing the prairie toward us. We -sat down. Two bucks, more curious than the others, came pretty close. -I struck one behind the fore shoulder; he did not go more than twenty -yards before he fell and died. This was the cause of much exultation, -because it fulfilled my determination; and, as we had been two days -and nights without victuals, it was very acceptable. Found some scrub -oak. In about one mile made a fire, and with much labor and pains got -our meat to it, the wolves feasting on one half while we were carrying -away the other. We were now provisioned, but were still in want of -water, the snow being all melted. Finding my drought very excessive in -the night, I went in search of water, and was much surprised, after -having gone about a mile, to strike the Mississippi. Filled my hat and -returned to my companions. - -“November 4.--Repaired my moccasins, using a piece of elk’s bone as an -awl. We both went to the Mississippi and found we were a great distance -from the camp. I left Miller to guard the meat, and marched for camp. -Having strained my ankles in the swamps, they were extremely sore, and -the strings of my moccasins cut them and made them swell considerably. -Before I had gone far I discovered a herd of ten elk; approached within -fifty yards and shot one through the body. He fell on the spot, but -rose again and ran off. I pursued him at least five miles, expecting -every minute to see him drop. I then gave him up. When I arrived at -Clear River, a deer was standing on the other bank. I killed him on the -spot, and while I was taking out the entrails another came up. I shot -him also. This was my last ball, and then only could I kill! Left part -of my clothes at this place to scare the wolves. Arrived at my camp at -dusk, to the great joy of our men, who had been to our little garrison -to inquire for me, and receiving no intelligence, had concluded we were -killed by the Indians, having heard them fire on the opposite bank. The -same night we saw fires on the opposite shore in the prairie; this was -likewise seen in the fort, when all the men moved into the works.” - -It was now the middle of November, and the river was closing up. Pike -was obliged to hunt practically all the time, and was impatient of the -slavish life led by the hunter, and the necessity of working all the -time to support his party. Under such conditions the pursuit of game -becomes work, and not play. - -After the winter had finally set in, Indians began to be seen; some of -them Sioux--Yanktons, and Sissetons--and some Menominees. - -A considerable part of the month of December was spent at various camps -along the Mississippi River, below the mouth of the Crow Wing River, -and the time was devoted to killing game and making preparations for -the northward journey. About the middle of the month Pike started with -sleds, sometimes hauled by men across the prairies, and sometimes along -the ice on the river, wherever it was heavy enough to bear the load. -The way was hard, and sometimes only short trips could be made with the -sleds. As there was little or no snow, the men were obliged to double -up, hauling a sled for a short distance, and then leaving it to go -back and haul the next one along. One of the sleds broke through the -ice, and everything it contained was wetted, including a considerable -portion of the powder. Pike found his various duties laborious, for he -was at once “hunter, spy, guide, commanding officer, etc.” - -In January he met a Mr. Grant, an English trader, by whom he was -hospitably received and well treated. About the middle of the month, -finding that his sleds were too heavy to be hauled through the snow, he -manufactured toboggans, which would be more easily hauled, even though -they carried smaller loads. - -On the first of February he reached Lake La Sang Sue, now known -as Leech Lake. This Pike believed to be the main source of the -Mississippi. The lake crossed, he stopped at a trading-post of the -Northwest Fur Company, where his men arrived five days later. Here -he hoisted the American flag in place of the English flag which he -had found still flying; and after a few days went north to Upper Red -Cedar Lake, which we now know as Cass Lake, Minnesota. This was a -country passed over in 1798 by David Thompson, a great explorer, whose -journeyings, together with those of Alexander Henry, the younger, were -edited by Dr. Elliott Coues. - -Pike was now in the country of the Chippewas, whom he knew by their -other name, Sauteurs, and on July 16 held a council with them, -notifying them that the country was no longer in the possession of the -British, advising them to make peace with the Sioux, and asking some -of their chiefs to go with him to St. Louis, where they should see -General Wilkinson. His talk with the Indians was pleasantly received, -and they made no difficulty about giving up their flags and medals, -which were to be replaced by flags and medals of the Americans. Two -well-known young men of the Sauteurs, living hereabout, expressed their -willingness to accompany the explorer to St. Louis, and a day or two -later Pike struck out in a southerly and south-easterly direction, to -return to his fort on the Mississippi. He reached that river about -March 1, and found all his people well. - -Pike was now prepared to start south as soon as the river broke up, and -to report success in all directions; a success due entirely to his own -astonishing energy and industry, for he alone had made the expedition -what it was. Something of what he felt he expressed when he wrote: - -“Ascended the mountain which borders the prairie. On the point of it -I found a stone on which the Indians had sharpened their knives, and -a war-club half finished. From this spot you may extend the eye over -vast prairies with scarcely any interruption but clumps of trees, which -at a distance appear like mountains, from two or three of which the -smoke rising in the air denoted the habitation of the wandering savage, -and too often marked them out as victims to their enemies, from whose -cruelty I have had the pleasure in the course of the winter and through -a wilderness of immense extent to relieve them, as peace has reigned -through my mediation from the prairie Des Chiens to the lower Red -River. If a subaltern with but twenty men at so great a distance from -the seat of his Government could effect so important a change in the -minds of these savages, what might not a great and independent power -effect, if, instead of blowing up the flames of discord, they exerted -their influence in the sacred cause of peace?” - -He was frequently seeing Indians, and he was treated with great respect -and hospitality by all of them. He was especially impressed by his -neighbors, the Menominees, in whom he recognized many good qualities. - -On the morning of April 7, 1806, the party started on the return -journey, and made good time down the river, reaching the Falls of St. -Anthony, where Minneapolis now stands, on the morning of April 10. -Below here, on the following day, at the mouth of St. Peter’s River, -was found a camp of Sioux, including several bands, and Pike had a -talk with them. The council-house was capable of containing 300 men, -and there were forty chiefs present, and forty pipes set against the -poles. At the council all these Sioux smoked the Chippewa pipes, -excepting three, who were still mourning for their relations killed -during the winter. Within the next two or three days he met important -Sioux chiefs, Little Crow and Red Wing, who were extremely cordial, and -emphatic in expressing their wish to carry out the instructions which -Pike had given them. - -From here down the river the journey was interrupted only by occasional -talks with Indians, until Prairie Des Chiens was reached, where there -were many white people, and Pike received the first news of the outside -world he had had for many months. He saw here a great game of lacrosse -on the prairie between Sioux on one side and Winnebagoes and Foxes -on the other. Councils were held here with various bands of Sioux, -and with the Winnebagoes. On April 23 they once more started down the -river, but were delayed by a head wind. Two days later Captain Many, of -the United States Army, was met on his way up the river in search of -some Osage prisoners among the Sacs and Foxes. At some of the Indian -camps passed, all the people were drunk--sure sign of the proximity of -the white men. - -This practically completes Pike’s voyage, for he reached St. Louis -April 30, after an absence of eight months and twenty-two days. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -ZEBULON M. PIKE - -II - - -On his return to St. Louis, after nearly nine months of the hardest -possible work in the North, Pike was allowed but a short rest. Two -months and a half later he set out on his Western journey, which was to -last a year, and during which he was to meet with vicissitudes which -no one could have foreseen. It is not strange that he should have been -chosen for the work of exploration in the South-west, which had for its -object the investigation of the heads of the rivers flowing through -the newly acquired Louisiana, making acquaintance with the Indians -inhabiting the region, and putting an end to the constant wars between -the different tribes. The good results achieved along the Mississippi -had proved his especial fitness for similar work in other portions of -the new domain of the United States, and were reason enough for giving -Pike the command of this expedition. But it is altogether possible -that General Wilkinson, then the commanding officer stationed at St. -Louis, in charge of the whole Western country, may have had an ulterior -object in sending Pike to investigate the Spanish boundaries of the -South-west. It had been more than suspected that in some way Wilkinson -was mixed up with the Aaron Burr conspiracy. Whether he was so or not, -the Spanish authorities of Mexico believed that he was, and believed -that the expedition led by Pike, of which they were informed well in -advance, was connected with this conspiracy, and had for its object the -acquiring of information detrimental to Spanish interests. - -At all events the Spaniards had made every preparation to meet Pike and -to capture his party, while Pike himself was intent only on carrying -out his instructions to explore the heads of these Western rivers, and -was ignorant of the existence of Burr’s conspiracy. - -On July 15, 1806, Pike sailed from St. Louis up the Missouri River. -With him were a lieutenant, a surgeon--Dr. Robinson--one sergeant, two -corporals, sixteen privates, and one interpreter--twenty-one soldiers -and two civilians--or twenty-three in all. Several of the party had -been with Pike in the North. There were fifty-one Indians who had been -redeemed from captivity among the Pottawatomies, and were now to be -returned to the Osage and Pawnee tribes, to which they belonged. Two -days after leaving St. Louis the party stopped at Mr. Morrison’s, and -there met a young man named George Henry, who wanted to go West, and -after a little time was engaged to accompany the party. He was a good -French scholar and spoke some Spanish. - -Progress with the boats, which were rowed up the stream, was of course -slow, and Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson, with the Indians, -marched across the country, while the boats toilfully pulled up the -river. They killed some game, chiefly deer and turkeys. The Indians had -a season of mourning each day about daylight, the crying continuing for -about an hour. The interpreter told Pike that this was the custom, not -only with those who had recently lost their relatives, but also with -others who recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, -and joined the other mourners purely from sympathy. They appeared -extremely affected; tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed -bitterly; but in a moment they would dry their cheeks and cease their -cries. Their songs of grief ran: “My dear father exists no longer; have -pity on me, O Great Spirit! You see I cry forever; dry my tears and -give me comfort.” The warriors’ songs were: “Our enemies have slain my -father [or mother]; he is lost to me and his family; I pray to you, O -Master of Life, to preserve me until I avenge his death, and then do -with me as thou wilt.” - -On the 28th of July the party reached the mouth of the Osage River, and -on the next day turned up the stream, heading for the Osage villages, -where they were to leave a part of their Indians, and were to impress -on the Osages the power and importance of the United States Government. -Game was quite abundant, and deer and turkeys were killed daily; two, -three, five, and on one day even nine deer having been taken, for the -large body of men required considerable food. - -There was trouble with the Indians from time to time. Some became -jealous of their wives, and quarrelled with other men, and on one -occasion there was some pilfering. But, on the whole, Pike managed the -Indians extremely well. On the 14th of August a canoe was met coming -down the river, manned by engagees of Mr. Chouteau, of St. Louis, by -whom Pike sent letters to General Wilkinson. Relatives of the returned -Osage prisoners came out to receive them. The meeting was very tender -and affectionate, “wives throwing themselves into the arms of their -husbands, parents embracing their children, and children their parents; -brothers and sisters meeting, one from captivity, the other from the -towns; they at the same time returning thanks to the good God for -having brought them once more together; in short, the _tout ensemble_ -was such as to make polished society blush when compared with those -savages, in whom the passions of the mind, whether joy, grief, fear, -anger, or revenge, have their full scope.” - -Sans Oreille (one of the Osages) made them a speech: “Osage, you now -see your wives, your brothers, your daughters, your sons, redeemed from -captivity. Who did this? Was it the Spaniards? No. The French? No. Had -either of those people been governors of the country, your relatives -might have rotted in captivity, and you never would have seen them; but -Americans stretched forth their hands and they are returned to you! -What can you do in return for all this goodness? Nothing; all your -lives would not suffice to repay their goodness.” This man had children -in captivity, not one of whom the party had been able to obtain for him. - -In the Osage village Pike was well received, but a few days in the -town and its neighborhood showed him some of the uncertainties of -attempting to deal with a strange people. He had great difficulty in -purchasing horses for his intended trip to the Pawnees, and where he -had secured horses, some of them were stolen from him. However, after -considerable difficulty, he got started, taking with him a number of -Osages, warriors and chiefs, whom he wished to have make peace with -the Pawnees, and also some of the redeemed Pawnee captives. From the -very start, however, the Osages were a trouble to him, for they were -constantly leaving him to return to their village, urged to do so by -dreams or by laziness, or perhaps by fear of what their reception might -be among the Pawnees. From the Osage village Pike travelled nearly -south along the Osage River for several days; and then turning west, -crossed Grand River, a tributary of the Arkansas, and going nearly -due west to the head of this stream, crossed over the divide to the -Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas River. Along Grand River game was very -abundant, and here we have a glimpse of a quality in Pike which we -must admire. “On the march,” he tells us, “we were continually passing -through large herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie [antelope], and I have -no doubt that one hunter could support two hundred men. I prevented -the men shooting at the game, not merely because of the scarcity of -ammunition, but, as I conceived, the laws of morality forbid it also.” - -On September 22 they began to meet Pawnees; and two days later others -joined them, who possessed mules, horses, bridles, and blankets, -which they had obtained of the Spaniards. Only a few of these Pawnees -wore breech cloths, most of them being clad only in buffalo robes. -On September 25 Pike had come close to the Pawnee village, which was -situated on the Republican fork of the Kansas River, quite a long way -above the mouth of the Solomon. Preparations to receive them, and to -smoke with the Osages, were made by the Pawnees. The visiting Indians -sat down on the prairie and the whites were a short distance in advance -of them. The Pawnees came out from their village, halted about a mile -from the strangers, and then, dividing into two troops, charged down -upon them, singing their war song, shouting the war cry, rattling their -lances and bows against their shields, and in all respects simulating -the character of genuine warfare. The two bodies of Pawnees passed -around the strangers and halted, and the chief of the Pawnees advanced -to the centre of the circle and shook hands. One of the Osages offered -the chief a pipe, and he smoked. The whole party then advanced to the -village, and when near to it again halted. Again the Osages sat down -in a row, facing the village, and now some of the Pawnees came to them -with pipes and invited one and another to smoke; the Osages did so, -and each received from the man whose pipe he smoked a stick, which -represented a horse. These Pawnees no doubt belonged to the Republican -Pawnees, or Kitkahahk tribe, the second in importance of the four -Pawnee tribes. - -Four days later a council was held at which not less than four hundred -warriors were present. Pike’s notes of this interesting occasion were -seized by the Spanish authorities later, and he never recovered them. -He gives, however, this interesting flag incident: “The Spaniards -had left several of their flags in this village, one of which was -unfurled at the chief’s door the day of the grand council; and among -various demands and charges I gave them was that the said flag should -be delivered to me, and one of the United States’ flags received and -hoisted in its place. This, probably, was carrying the pride of nations -a little too far, as there had so lately been a large force of Spanish -cavalry at the village, which had made a great impression on the minds -of the young men, as to their power, consequence, etc., which my -appearance with twenty infantry was by no means calculated to remove. - -“After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my discourse, but -were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated the demand for the flag, -adding ‘that it was impossible for the nation to have two fathers; that -they must either be the children of the Spaniards or acknowledge their -American father.’ After a silence of some time an old man rose, went -to the door, took down the Spanish flag, brought it and laid it at my -feet; he then received the American flag, and elevated it on the staff -which had lately borne the standard of his Catholic Majesty. This gave -great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of whom decidedly avow -themselves to be under American protection. Perceiving that every face -in the council was clouded with sorrow, as if some great national -calamity were about to befall them, I took up the contested colors, -and told them ‘that as they had shown themselves dutiful children in -acknowledging their great American father, I did not wish to embarrass -them with the Spaniards, for it was the wish of the Americans that -their red brethren should remain peaceably around their own fires, -and not embroil themselves in any disputes between the white people; -and that for fear the Spaniards might return there in force again, I -returned them their flag, but with an injunction that it should never -be hoisted again during our stay.’ At this there was a general shout of -applause, and the charge was particularly attended to.” - -The raising of the American flag by Pike in the village of the -Pawnee Republicans on September 29, 1806, marks perhaps the first -formal display of that flag by a soldier in the territory west of -the immediate banks of the Mississippi River. This has properly been -regarded as an occasion of very great importance and one well worthy of -commemoration. The Historical Society of Kansas, on September 30, 1901, -unveiled with appropriate ceremonies a monument to Pike at Cortland, -Kansas, a point which has been identified as the site of the ancient -Kitkahahk village at which he stopped, when he held his council with -the Indians, and took down the Spanish flag and raised that of his own -country. - -For some days Pike remained with the Pawnees, and these must have -been days of more or less anxiety. The Indians had no sentiments of -attachment for either Americans or Spaniards, but they had undoubtedly -been much impressed by the greater power of the Spaniards, as evidenced -by the expedition which had but just left them, and they were not -without fear that wars might occur between the representatives of the -different nations, from which wars they would gain nothing and might -lose much. The Pawnee chief endeavored to turn Pike back, saying that -he had persuaded the Spaniards to forego their intention of proceeding -farther to the east, and that he had promised the Spaniards that he -would turn back the Americans. He told Pike that he must give up his -expedition and return, and that if he were unwilling to do this the -Pawnees would oppose him by force of arms. Pike, of course, declined to -turn back, and intimated that an effort to stop him would be resisted. - -For some days now he was trading with the Indians for horses, but -they were unwilling to sell them, and some of those newly purchased -disappeared. However, on the 7th of October he marched from the -village, moving a little west of south. The lost horses had by this -time been returned. On the second day out he was overtaken by about -one-third of the Pawnees, who remained with them only a short time. A -little later Pike’s party discovered some elk, which they pursued, and -these running back in sight of the Pawnees were chased by them. “Then, -for the first time in my life,” said Pike, “I saw animals slaughtered -by the true savages with their original weapons, bows and arrows; they -buried the arrow up to the plume in the animal.” - -They met Pawnees from time to time for a few days, and on the 15th Pike -and Dr. Robinson left the party, and lost them, not finding them until -the 18th. Their camp was on the Arkansas River, where Pike built boats, -to send Lieutenant Wilkinson and some men down the river, and so back -to the settlements. On the 28th Lieutenant Wilkinson, in a skin canoe, -made of four buffalo and two elk hides, and one wooden canoe, proceeded -down the river. The party consisted of Lieutenant Wilkinson, five white -men, and two Osage Indians. - -From here for a long distance Pike’s route lay up the Arkansas River. -Soon they came into a country abounding in buffalo, antelope, and wild -horses. The antelope were so curious that they came up among the horses -to satisfy their curiosity, and the men could not resist the temptation -of killing two, although they had plenty of meat. At the report of the -gun the game “appeared astonished, and stood still until we hallowed -at them, to drive them away.” Herds of horses were seen, which came up -very close to the command. An effort was made to rope some of the wild -horses, but as the animals ridden by the men were slow, and the ropers -were without experience, the attempt was unsuccessful; and of this -Pike says: “I have since laughed at our folly, for taking wild horses -in that manner is scarcely ever attempted, even with the fleetest -horses and most expert ropers.” The method pursued by the Spanish in -Texas to capture wild horses was not unlike the old Indian fashion of -taking buffalo. “They take a few fleet horses and proceed into the -country where the wild horses are numerous. They then build a large -strong inclosure, with a door which enters a smaller inclosure; from -the entrance of the large pen they project wings out into the prairie -a great distance, and then set up bushes, to induce the horses, when -pursued, to enter into these wings. After these preparations are made -they keep a lookout for a small drove, for, if they unfortunately -should start too large a one, they either burst open the pen or fill it -up with dead bodies, and the others run over them and escape; in which -case the party are obliged to leave the place, as the stench arising -from the putrid carcasses would be insupportable; and, in addition -to this, the pen would not receive others. Should they, however, -succeed in driving in a few, say two or three hundred, they select -the handsomest and youngest, noose them, take them into the small -inclosures, and then turn out the remainder; after which, by starving, -preventing them taking any repose, and continually keeping them in -motion, they make them gentle by degrees, and finally break them to -submit to the saddle and bridle. For this business I presume there is -no nation in the world superior to the Spaniards of Texas.” - -[Illustration: BUFFALO ON THE SOUTHERN PLAINS. - -From Kendall’s _Narrative of the Texas Santa Fé Expedition_.] - -As they proceeded westward they found the prairie covered with buffalo, -most of them cows and calves. Pike dilates on their numbers, and -speaks of the excellence of the flesh of the buffalo, which he says -was “equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted sumptuously on the -choice morsels.” From time to time they came upon the trail of the -Spaniards, returning to their mountain homes, and counted the fires -about which these people had encamped. Now their horses were beginning -to grow poor and weak, owing to the scanty pasturage; and now, too, -November 12, Pike passed beyond the borders of the present Kansas and -into what is now the State of Colorado. - -On November 15, “at 2 o’clock in the afternoon I thought I could -distinguish a mountain to our right, which appeared like a small blue -cloud; viewed it with the spy-glass, and was still more confirmed in -my conjecture, yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, who was in -front with me; but in half an hour they appeared in full view before -us. When our small party arrived on the hill they with one accord gave -three cheers to the Mexican mountains. Their appearance can easily be -imagined by those who have crossed the Alleghanies; but their sides -were whiter, as if covered with snow, or a white stone. Those were a -spur of the grand western chain of mountains which divide the waters -of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic Ocean; and the spur divides -the waters which empty into the Bay of the Holy Spirit from those of -the Mississippi, as the Alleghanies do those which discharge themselves -into the latter river and the Atlantic. They appear to present a -natural boundary between the province of Louisiana and New Mexico, and -would be a defined and natural boundary.” On the same day they came to -the Purgatory River, or River of Souls. Here the Arkansas appeared to -carry much more water than below, and was apparently navigable. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -ZEBULON M. PIKE - -III - - -On November 22, as Pike and Dr. Robinson, and Vasquez, the interpreter, -were riding ahead of the command, they met a party of sixty Pawnees -returning from an unsuccessful war party. Half of them were armed -with guns, and about half with bows, arrows and lances. They met the -white men in a very friendly manner, but crowded about them; and at -the same time treated them in so boisterous and disrespectful, and yet -good-natured a way, as to cause them some uneasiness. Pike prepared to -smoke with them, and offered them some small presents, with which they -were quite dissatisfied; so that for some time the pipes “lay unmoved, -as if they were undetermined whether to treat us as friends or enemies; -but after some time we were presented with a kettle of water, drank, -smoked and ate together.” The Pawnees treated the presents given them -with more or less contempt, and some even threw them away. - -“We began to load our horses, when they encircled us and commenced -stealing everything they could. Finding it was difficult to preserve -my pistols, I mounted my horse, when I found myself frequently -surrounded; during which some were endeavoring to steal the pistols. -The doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, and all the soldiers -in their positions, in taking things from them. One having stolen my -tomahawk, I informed the chief; but he paid no respect, except to -reply that ‘they were pitiful.’ Finding this, I determined to protect -ourselves, as far as was in my power, and the affair began to take -a serious aspect. I ordered my men to take their arms and separate -themselves from the savages; at the same time declaring to them that -I would kill the first man who touched our baggage. On which they -commenced filing off immediately; we marched about the same time, and -found they had made out to steal one sword, tomahawk, broad-ax, five -canteens, and sundry other small articles. After leaving them, when I -reflected on the subject, I felt myself sincerely mortified, that the -smallness of my number obliged me thus to submit to the insults of -lawless banditti, it being the first time a savage ever took anything -from me with the least appearance of force.” - -It was near the end of November. Provisions were scarce; but on the -26th, Pike killed a “new species of deer”--a blacktail, or mule deer. -The real troubles of the expedition were beginning, for the weather -was growing cold, snow fell, and the water was freezing. The men who -had started from St. Louis in July, prepared for a summer excursion, -had worn out their shoes and clothing, and were half naked, in winter, -among the high mountains of the Rockies. Some of them froze their -feet. They made such foot gear as they could from the hide of the -buffalo, but many had used up their blankets, by cutting them to pieces -for socks, and had nothing with which to cover themselves at night, no -matter how cold the weather, or how deep the snow. Pike worked backward -and forward among the canyons, on streams at the head of the Arkansas, -and passed over the divide between that river and the head waters of -the South Platte, and then back on to the Arkansas, near what is now -called the Royal Gorge. Here he came on the site of an immense Indian -camp, occupied not long before, which had a large cross in the middle; -and which, though he then did not know it, was a big camp of Kiowas and -Comanches, with whom had been a white man, James Pursley. The party -was constantly suffering for food, and often went for days without -eating, and were almost without protection from the weather. Pike -never ceased his efforts to cross the mountains to the supposed head -of the Red River (the Canadian), which he had been ordered to find. -Deep though the snow might be, and bitter the cold, with his men and -himself equally hungry and equally frozen, passing through a country -almost impracticable for horses, where the animals themselves had to be -dragged along, and often unloaded and hauled up steep mountain sides, -he kept on. On some occasions the little party of sixteen were divided -into eight different expeditions, struggling not along the trail, but -to get over the mountains, on the one hand, and on the other, to -kill something which might give food to the party. Their guns now had -begun to fail them; a number burst; others were bent and broken by the -rough usage. Even Pike, who scarcely ever permits a word of complaint -to escape him, says, on January 5, after breaking his gun: “This was -my birthday, and most fervently did I hope never to pass another so -miserably.” - -Matters had reached such a point that it was useless to attempt to drag -the horses any further. Pike determined to build a small block-house, -and leave there a part of his baggage, the horses, and two men; and -then, with the remainder of their possessions on their backs, to cross -the mountains on foot, find the Red River, and send back a party to -bring on the horses and baggage by some easy route. They started on -January 14, each carrying an average of seventy pounds, and marched -nearly south, following up the stream now known as Grape Creek. They -had not gone far before the men began to freeze their feet, and -were unable to travel. They had little or no food, but, at last, -Dr. Robinson, after two days’ hunting, during which they met with -constant misfortunes, managed to kill a buffalo, loads of which were -brought back to camp. Leaving two of the disabled men behind, with as -much provision as possible, promising to send relief to them as soon -as they could, Pike and the others pushed on, making their slow way -through the deep snow. They were soon again without food; and again -the doctor and Pike, who appear to have been by all odds the men of -the party, succeeded in killing a buffalo, and satisfying the hunger -of the company. It was on this day, January 24, that Pike heard the -first complaint. One of his men declared “that it was more than human -nature could bear, to march three days without sustenance, through -snows three feet deep, and carry a burden only fit for horses.” This -was very bitter to the leader, and he administered a rebuke, which, -though severe, was so eminently just and sympathetic as to increase the -devotion which his men must have felt for such a leader. - -For a little time they had food, and the weather became more mild. -Now turning to the right, they crossed through the mountains, and -came within sight of a large river, flowing nearly north and south. -This, although the explorer did not know it, was the Rio Grande del -Norte. Travelling down toward this stream, they came to a large west -branch; and here Pike determined to build a fort, for a protection for -a portion of his party, while the remainder should be sent back to -bring on the men who had been left behind at different points. Deer -were plenty, and it seemed to be a spot where life could be supported. -Pike laid out a plan for his block-house, which was on the edge of the -river, and was surrounded by a moat, and a dirt rampart. - -From this point Dr. Robinson set out alone for Santa Fé. The purpose -of his trip was to spy out the land, and to learn what he could with -regard to the Spanish government, and the opportunities for trade -there. In the year 1804, Mr. Morrison, a merchant of Kaskaskia, had -sent across the plains a creole of the country, one Baptiste La Lande, -with goods which he was to trade at Santa Fé. La Lande had never -returned, and it was believed that he had remained in Santa Fé, and -had appropriated to himself the property of his employer. When Pike -was about to start on his westward expedition, Mr. Morrison made over -to him his claim on La Lande, in the hope that some of his property -might be recovered, and this claim assigned to Robinson was the pretext -for his trip to Santa Fé. In other words: Robinson was, as Dr. Coues -remarked, a spy. It is true that Spain and the United States were not -then at war, but there was a more or less hostile feeling between the -two governments; or, if not between the two governments, at least -between the citizens of the two powers residing on the borders of the -respective territories. More than that, as already stated, the Aaron -Burr conspiracy--with which Pike was wholly unacquainted--was known to -the Spaniards, as was also Pike’s starting for the west. The Spanish -authorities unquestionably connected the two things, and were disposed -to look with great suspicion on any Americans who entered their -territory. - -Dr. Robinson set out for Santa Fé on the 7th of February; and until -the 16th Pike was occupied in hunting, building his block-house, -reading, and studying. On the 16th, while hunting, he discovered two -horsemen not far from him. These, when he attempted to retreat, pursued -threateningly; but if he turned about to go toward them, they retired. -As he was doubtful where he was, and uncertain if the territory was -Spanish or American, he was unwilling to act on the aggressive; but -finally he lured the horsemen so close to him that they could hardly -get away, and after a little they explained their presence. It seemed -that four days before Robinson had reached Santa Fé, and that the -Governor had sent out these scouts to learn who the strangers were. The -next day they departed for Santa Fé, which they said they would reach -on the second day. - -Within the next two or three days all the men he had left behind save -two--Dougherty and Sparks--had come in; and on February 19 Sergeant -Meek, with Miller, was ordered to go back to the point where they -had left the interpreter, Vasquez, with one man and the horses, to -bring them on, and on his way to pick up Dougherty and Sparks, who, -on account of their frozen feet, had been unable to walk. Pike pays -touching tribute to the heroism of his men, saying: “I must here -remark the effect of habit, discipline, and example, in two soldiers -soliciting a command of more than one hundred and eighty miles, over -two great ridges of mountains covered with snow, inhabited by bands of -unknown savages in the interest of a nation with which we were not on -the best understanding. To perform this journey, each had about ten -pounds of venison. Only let me ask, What would our soldiers generally -think on being ordered on such a tour thus equipped? Yet these men -volunteered it with others, and were chosen, for which they thought -themselves highly honored.” - -On February 26 a detachment of Spaniards, consisting of two officers, -with fifty dragoons and fifty mounted militia, reached the post. -The sentry halted them at a distance of fifty yards, and Pike made -preparations for their reception. He insisted that the Spanish troops -should be left at some little distance from the fort, while he would -meet the officers on the prairie. This was done, and then he invited -the officers to enter the fort, where he offered them his hospitality. -It was then for the first time, Pike tells us, that he knew that the -stream on which he was camped was not the Red River, meaning the -Canadian, but was the Rio del Norte, which, though known by several -other names, is what we now call the Rio Grande, and now forms the -boundary line between Texas and Mexico. The officer in command stated -that the Governor of New Mexico had ordered him to offer Pike mules, -horses, money, or whatever he might need to conduct him to the head of -the Red River, and requested Pike to visit the Governor at Santa Fé. -Pike at first declined to go without his whole command, but after a -time was persuaded to go to Santa Fé, leaving two men in the post to -meet the Sergeant and his party, and to convey to them his orders to -come to Santa Fé. - -Naturally Pike did not wish to resist this invitation, or to be put in -the position of committing hostilities on the foreign soil which he had -invaded, since his orders did not commit him to any such course. Having -made the error of entering the territory of another power, he thought -it better to explain matters, rather than to commit an act which might -involve his country in war. His compliance with the request of the -Spanish officer seemed to be received by them with great satisfaction; -but, he says, “it appeared to be different with my men, who wished to -have ‘a little dust,’ as they expressed themselves, and were likewise -fearful of treachery.” After making the necessary preparations, and -leaving orders for Sergeant Meek, Pike set out with the Spaniards to -their camp on the Rio del Norte, and thence to Santa Fé. His passage -through the country was an interesting one, and everywhere he was -treated with the greatest kindness and hospitality by the people. At -the pueblo of San Juan he met the man Baptiste La Lande, who professed -to be an American, and endeavored to learn from Pike something of his -journeying and his purpose; but Pike, suspecting his designs, and after -a little talk satisfying himself as to what they were, had the man shut -in a room, and threatened him with death if he did not confess his -perfidy. La Lande was greatly frightened, and declared that he had been -ordered by the Government to find out everything possible about Pike. - -Not only did the common people treat Pike’s men with great kindness -and hospitality, but the priests and those of the better class were -courteous, cordial, and very much interested in the explorer. - -Santa Fé was reached March 3. It then had a supposed population of -four thousand five hundred souls, most of whom, we may imagine, turned -out to see the Americans. Pike’s visit with the Governor was brief. -He denied that Robinson was attached to his party, excusing himself -to himself on the ground that Robinson was a volunteer, and could not -properly be said to be one of his command. The Governor’s reception was -haughty and unfriendly. Pike bore himself with great dignity and wasted -no words. At a later interview that day his papers were examined by -the Governor, and after they had been read his manner changed, and he -became much more cordial. Pike’s trunk was locked and the key given to -him, the trunk to be put in charge of an officer, who was instructed -to escort him to Chihuahua, where he was to appear before the -Commandant-General. That night he dined with the Governor, and received -from him money for the expenses of himself and men as far as Chihuahua. - -The story of the march from Santa Fé to Chihuahua is interesting. Not -far from Albuquerque they met Dr. Robinson. He was hardly recognized by -Pike, for he was fat, sleek, and well looking, as different as possible -from that Robinson who had left the camp on the head waters of the Rio -del Norte, “pale, emaciated, with uncombed locks and beard of eight -months’ growth, but with fire, unsubdued enterprise, and fortitude.” - -The party crossed the Rio Grande at El Paso del Norte, then a great -crossing-place for travellers north and south, and just over the river -from our present Texas town of El Paso, situated on one of the great -transcontinental railroads. - -Chihuahua was reached April 2, and Pike immediately had an interview -with the Governor, who treated him with reasonable consideration. -Almost the whole month of April was passed here, and during this -time Pike was entertained by the people of the town, among whom, we -may infer, he was regarded partly in the light of a hero, and partly -in the light of a curiosity. On one occasion he was warned by the -Governor that he spoke too freely with regard to religion, government, -and other matters, to which he made a very free response, justifying -himself for whatever he had done. Pike left Chihuahua April 28. He had -become suspicious that there was danger that his private notes would -be taken from him, so he took his small note-books and concealed them -in the barrels of the guns of his men. It was now May, the weather -growing very warm and dry; and sometimes as they marched they suffered -from lack of water. Almost everywhere Pike continued to be received -with great kindness by the people, both in the towns and by the rich -haciendados, whose ranchos were passed in the country. He frequently -met men of English, Irish, and American birth, most of whom were kind -to him; and, on one occasion, conversed gladly with an American whom -he shortly afterward learned to be a deserter from the United States -Army. This made him very indignant, and he sent word to the proprietor -of the house where they were stopping that if this deserter appeared -at another meal all the Americans would decline to eat. His firmness -brought an apology from the host, who took steps that the deserter -should not again appear. - -The month of June was spent in journeying through Texas, eastward, -to the borders of Louisiana. Pike speaks in the warmest terms of the -two Governors, Cordero and Herrara, whom he met at San Antonio. They, -and all the other Spaniards whom he met in Texas, were kind to him. -On the first of July the party reached Natchitoches about four P. M. -“Language cannot express the gayety of my heart when I once more beheld -the standard of my country waved aloft. ‘All hail!’ cried I, ‘the ever -sacred name of country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends, -and every other tie which is dear to the soul of man!’” - -It was in August, 1806, while he was on his way westward, on this -second expedition, that Pike was promoted to be a captain, and his -promotion to a majority followed soon after his return. With successive -promotions in 1809, he became lieutenant-colonel, and with the coming -of the war of 1812, Pike, now a colonel, was sent to guard the northern -frontier. He was appointed to be brigadier general March 12, 1813. -There was some fighting, but not much; but on April 27, 1813, while -leading an attack on Fort York--now Toronto--he was killed by the -explosion of the magazine, which the retreating enemy had fired. As an -eye-witness said: The Governor’s house, with some smaller buildings, -formed a square at the centre battery, and under it the grand magazine, -containing a large quantity of powder, was situated. As there were -only two or three guns at this battery, and it but a short distance -from the garrison, the troops did not remain in it, but retreated -to the latter. When the Americans, commanded by one of their best -generals, Pike, reached this small battery, instead of pressing -forward, they halted, and the general sat down on one of the guns; a -fatal proceeding, for, in a few minutes, his advance guard, consisting -of about three hundred men and himself, were blown into the air by the -explosion of the grand magazine. - -“... I heard the report, and felt a tremendous motion in the earth, -resembling the shock of an earthquake; and, looking toward the spot, I -saw an immense cloud ascend into the air. I was not aware at the moment -what it had been occasioned by, but it had an awfully grand effect; -at first it was a great confused mass of smoke, timber, men, earth, -etc., but as it arose, in a most majestic manner, it assumed the shape -of a vast balloon. When the whole mass had ascended to a considerable -height, and the force by which the timber, etc., were impelled upwards -became spent, the latter fell from the cloud and spread over the -surrounding plain.” - -Struck by a fragment of rock, Pike was mortally wounded. As he was -being taken on board the flagship “Madison,” he heard the cheering on -the shore. He asked what it meant, and was told that the Stars and -Stripes were being hoisted over the captured fort. A little later the -captured British flag was brought to him; he motioned to have it put -under his head, and soon after this had been done he died. - -It is a melancholy commentary on the shortness of human fame that -to-day the number of Americans who know who Pike was is very small. -Few men have done more than he for their country. Few men in their -time have attracted more attention. Pike’s name has been given to -mountains, counties, cities, villages, and even to islands, rivers, and -bays; and while, as Dr. Coues suggests, it may well enough be that not -all these are named after Pike the explorer, yet we may be sure that -the enthusiasm of the people for Pike at the time of his death, and -for some time afterward, led to the giving his name to many natural -features of the land, and to many political divisions within the -States. After all, Pike’s most impressive and most enduring monument -must always remain the superb mountain which bears his name. If Pike -did not discover this, “the grim sentinel of the Rockies,” which towers -fourteen thousand one hundred and forty-seven feet above the sea, at -least he was one of the first Americans to see it. He calls it, fitly, -the Grand Peak. Nearly fourteen years later, during Major Long’s -expedition to the Rocky Mountains, it was named James Peak; but this -name, though often mentioned in books, did not long endure, and the -name Pike’s Peak, first used some time during the decade between 1830 -and 1840--for example in Latrobe’s “Rambler in America”--is now firmly -established, and will ever remain the mountain’s designation. - -The death of Pike at the early age of thirty-four, so soon after he -had attained the summit of his ambition, the rank of general and at -the moment when the force under his command had won a notable victory, -seems very pathetic; and yet, after all, may not this have been a -happy fate? For we cannot tell what sorrows and disappointments a -longer life might have brought to him. It seems almost as though he may -have had a premonition of the fate in store for him, since, in his last -letter to his father, written just before he set out on his expedition, -he writes as follows: - -“I embark to-morrow in the fleet at Sackett’s Harbor, at the head -of a column of one thousand five hundred choice troops, on a secret -expedition. If success attends my steps, honor and glory await my name; -if defeat, still shall it be said we died like brave men, and conferred -honor, even in death, on the American name. - -“Should I be the happy mortal destined to turn the scale of war, will -you not rejoice, O my father? May heaven be propitious, and smile on -the cause of my country. But if we are destined to fall, may my fall be -like Wolfe’s--to sleep in the arms of victory.” - -It was so that Pike fell asleep. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER) - -I - - -Among the north men who overran the country long known as the Hudson’s -Bay Territory, Alexander Henry, the younger, was a commanding figure. -He was a nephew of that other Alexander Henry whose adventures have -been described earlier in this book. To Alexander Henry, the younger, -we owe the most curious and complete record ever printed of the daily -life of the fur trader in the north. - -Alexander Henry, the younger, was a diarist; he kept a journal in which -he set down, in the most matter-of-fact way, everything that happened -to him, and, as has been said by Dr. Coues, “it mirrors life in a way -Mr. Samuel Pepys might envy could he compare his inimitable diary with -this curious companion piece of _causerie_, and perceive that he who -goes over the sea may change his sky, but not his mind.” - -The wonderful journal of Henry’s slept for nearly a century. Where the -original may be we do not know, but a copy was made by George Coventry -about the year 1824, and this copy about seventy years later came -under the notice of Dr. Elliott Coues, whose studies of the old West, -have furnished so great a mass of material from which the student of -history may glean information. - -The diary covers a period of about fifteen years, from 1799 to 1814, -during which time Henry travelled from Lake Superior to the Pacific. -He lived in and travelled through, at various times, the Canadian -Provinces of Ontario, Manitoba, Assiniboia, Keewatin, Saskatchewan, -Alberta, and British Columbia; while in the United States his travels -were through Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota, Idaho, Oregon, and -Washington. In these long journeys he met many different tribes of -Indians, and saw much of the Chippewas, the three tribes of the -Blackfeet, the Crees, Assiniboines, Sioux, Sarcees, and other northern -tribes, while in his southern journeyings he reached the Mandans, the -Minitari, the Rees, and even the Cheyennes, south of the Missouri -River, and on the west coast saw many tribes of the Columbia. - -The journal begins in the autumn of 1799, when he was camped on the -White Earth River, near the foot of what is now known as Riding -Mountain, in Manitoba, a little west of Portage La Prairie. Here he had -stopped after his journey from Montreal, to trade with the Indians the -liquor, blankets, strouding, and various trinkets the Indians liked. -He made that fall a clear profit of seven hundred pounds. This was his -first trial in the Northwest. - -In the summer of 1800 Henry was on his way westward, with a brigade -of canoes, each of which carried twenty-eight pieces of goods, ten -of which were kegs of rum of nine gallons each; loads which sunk the -canoes to the gunwales. He was proceeding by the Grande Portage to Lake -Winnipeg, over the road which, even then, was being travelled by many -fur traders. Wherever he found Indians, they were usually drunk, and -when drunk always troublesome. They crossed the Lake of the Woods, and -ran down the river Winnipic. At Portage de Lisle one of the canoes, to -avoid the trouble of making this portage, passed down near the north -shore with a full load. “She had not gone many yards when, by some -mismanagement of the foreman, the current bore down her bow full upon -the shore against a rock, upon which the fellow, taking advantage of -his situation, jumped, while the current whirled the canoe around. The -steersman, finding himself within reach of the shore, jumped upon the -rock, with one of the midmen; the other midman, not being sufficiently -active, remained in the canoe, which was instantly carried out and -lost to view among the high waves. At length she appeared, and stood -perpendicularly for a moment, when she sank down again, and I then -perceived the man rising upon a bale of drygoods in the midst of the -waves. We made every exertion to get near him, and did not cease -calling out to him to take courage, and not let go his hold; but alas! -he sank under a heavy swell, and when the bale arose the man appeared -no more. At this time we were only a few yards from him; but while we -were eagerly looking out for him, poor fellow, the whirlpool caught my -canoe, and before we could get away she was half-full of water. We then -made all haste to get ashore, and go in search of the property. The -canoe we found flat upon the water, broken in many places. However, we -hauled her ashore, and afterwards collected as many pieces as we could -find. The men had landed a few packages above the rapid, otherwise our -loss would have been still greater.” - -On August 16 they entered Lake Winnipeg, and were almost wrecked by -a storm, the wind blowing violently over a shoal flat, and raising -a tumbling sea. Wild-fowl were plenty; so were also Rocky Mountain -locusts, which Henry said were thrown up on the beach to a depth of -six to nine inches. He shot a white pelican, of which many were seen. -From here Henry went up the Red River to establish a trading-fort, and -on the way up he divided his goods, one-half of which were to be sent -to Portage La Prairie on the Assiniboine River. The Indians here were -chiefly canoe and foot people, and had few horses. Pigeons were very -numerous, as were also fish, and the Indians had some dried buffalo -meat, which was purchased from them. Fruit was abundant along the bank; -plums of three different sorts, pembinas, and grapes. - -A number of Indians had joined him, all of whom wanted liquor and -supplies. He gave them more or less liquor, with the result that most -of them were drunk much of the time, and showed no disposition either -to hunt or to trap. As they proceeded up Red River, they approached -the country ranged over by the Sioux, between whom and the Ojibwas -there was everlasting war. The Indians were therefore in a continual -state of alarm, and every time a shot was heard they thought that the -enemy were about to attack them. They were now close to the country of -the buffalo, and the Indians were bringing in fresh meat. Henry speaks -of the abundance of these animals at his camp of August 26, where, he -says, “The ravages of the buffaloes at this place are astonishing to a -person unaccustomed to these meadows. The beach, once soft black mud, -into which a man would sink knee-deep, is now made hard as pavement by -the numerous herds coming to drink. The willows are entirely trampled -and torn to pieces; even the bark of the smaller trees is rubbed off in -many places. The grass on the first bank of the river is entirely worn -away. Numerous paths, some of which are a foot deep in the hard turf, -come from the plains to the brink of the river, and vast quantities of -dung gives this place the appearance of a cattle yard. We have reached -the commencement of the great plains of Red River, where the eye is -lost in one continuous level westward. Not a tree or a rising ground -interrupts the view.” Here he had his first experience in running -buffalo, and merely for the amusement of it killed not a few. - -The Indians continued drinking and fighting among themselves. No one -as yet had been killed, but more than one had been severely injured. -Now, however, they had used up all their liquor, and Henry refused to -give them any more; so that while many continued to loaf about and beg -for drink, some went hunting. Keeping on up the Red River, he pushed -on southward, being anxious to reach a country where the beaver seemed -to be plenty. Game was very abundant--buffalo, elk and bears. “Whilst -we were arranging camp I saw a bear on the east side of the river, a -little above us, coming down to drink. I crossed over and followed him; -he instantly stopped within a few paces, and ran up a large oak. I shot -him between the shoulders, and he fell to the ground like a rock, but -in a moment was scampering away as fast as he could. I traced him by -the blood, and soon found him sitting under a brush heap, grumbling and -licking his wounds. A second shot dispatched him. By the hideous scream -he uttered when he fell from the tree, I imagined he was coming at me, -and was waiting for him with my second barrel cocked, when he ran off. -I went for my two men, and it was hard work for us three to drag him to -the canoe; he was very fat. I found that my first ball had gone through -his heart. I was surprised that he should have been so active after a -wound of that kind.” - -Early in September, Henry, having passed up Red River as far as the -mouth of Park River, decided to build there, and began the work of -cutting house logs and erecting his stockades. Game was astonishingly -abundant, bears being so plenty that they were killed almost daily. -Three men came in with twelve bears; a hunter returned with four bears, -and so on. Now that they were settled, Henry began to give out to the -Indians their debts; by which is meant that he furnished them the -articles that they needed for hunting and for their life during the -winter, charging them with the articles, which were to be paid for by -skins--that is, the value of a beaver skin. He prepared a seat in a -tall oak, which he used as a lookout station, and from which he had -an extensive view. Every morning he used to climb to the top of this -oak and look over the country, not only to see where the game was, but -also to see if people were moving about. After the stockade had been -finished, the houses were built, and then came the task of preparing -food for the winter. Meantime, the Indians had persuaded Henry again -to give them liquor, and they were once more drunk and quarrelling. -Happily, when fighting, they did not use their guns or bows, but only -their knives; and so, although men and women were frequently severely -stabbed and cut, there were no immediate fatalities. - -Henry was a good deal of a hunter, and much of his journal is given -up to accounts of what he killed. Indian alarms were as frequent as -ever, but none of them amounted to anything, being causeless panics. -In October Henry made a journey down the river, to look up some of -the people that he had sent off to establish small trading-posts. On -his return, about the middle of October, he found that his hunter -had killed a large grizzly bear, about a mile from the fort, and -mentions that these bears are not numerous along Red River, but are -more abundant in the Hair Hills. This is one of the most eastern -records for the grizzly bear, although Long--_Voyages and Travels_, -London, 1791--speaks as if they were sometimes found a little further -eastward, even east of the west end of Lake Superior. - -A little later Henry, with one of his hunters and another man, set off -in search of the Red Lake Indians, whom he wished to inform that he -had established a trading-post here. The journey was long, and much of -it through thick woods and underbrush, and it almost proved fruitless. -However, he at length came across a young Indian, who was very much -frightened at seeing them, but finally realizing that they were -friends, talked freely to them. The Indian reported that his people -were at Red Lake waiting for traders, and Henry tried to persuade him -to bring them into his fort. Henry then returned to his post. - -Winter was now approaching. The Indians were making the mats with which -they covered their huts in winter, while many of the men were preparing -to go to war. An interesting note on wolves appears here, under date -of Sunday, November 2: “Last night the wolves were very troublesome; -they kept up a terrible howling about the fort, and even attempted to -enter Maymiutch’s hut. A large white one came boldly into the door, -and was advancing toward a young child, when he was shot dead. Some of -them are very audacious. I have known them to follow people for several -days, attempt to seize a person or a dog, and to be kept off only by -firearms. It does not appear that hunger makes them so voracious, as -they have been known to pass carcasses of animals which they might have -eaten to their fill, but they would not touch flesh, their object -seeming to be that of biting. The Canadians swear that these are mad -wolves, and are much afraid of them.” - -Another note of interest to the zoologist is this: “We saw a great -herd of cows going at full speed southward, but on coming to our -track, which goes to Salt Lake, they began to smell the ground, and -as suddenly as if they had been fired at, turned toward the mountain. -It is surprising how sagacious these animals are. When in the least -alarmed, they will smell the track of even a single person in the -grass, and run away in the contrary direction. I have seen large herds -walking very slowly to pasture, and feeding as they went, come to a -place where some persons had passed on foot, when they would instantly -stop, smell the ground, draw back a few paces, bellow, and tear up the -earth with their horns. Sometimes the whole herd would range along the -road, keeping up a terrible noise, until one of them was hardy enough -to jump over, when they would all follow, and run some distance.” On -November 8, with an Indian, Henry started in search of Indians about -Grand Forks. Although the weather had been cold and snowy, it had now -turned warm again, and they had much trouble in crossing streams and -sloughs. They went south, to what Henry’s Indian told him was the -border of the Sioux country, and old camping-grounds were pointed out, -which the Indian said were Sioux. Beaver appeared to be very numerous, -but they killed nothing, making no fire, and firing no guns, and -keeping their horses always close to them. - -In describing the country passed over, Henry speaks of the Schian -River, a tributary of the Red River, which flows into it about ten -miles north of Fargo. This, he says, “takes its name from a formerly -numerous tribe of Indians who inhabited its upper part. They were a -neutral tribe between the Sioux and Saulteurs for many years, but -the latter, who are of a jealous disposition, suspected that they -favored the Sioux. A very large party having once been unsuccessful in -discovering their enemies, on their return wreaked their vengeance on -those people, destroying their village, and murdering most of them. -This happened about sixty years ago, when the Saulteurs were at war -with their natural enemies, the Sioux, of the plains, who are the only -inhabitants of St. Peter’s River. The Schians, having been nearly -exterminated, abandoned their old territory, and fled southward across -the Missouri, where they are now a wandering tribe.” - -This story agrees very well with the traditions related by the -Cheyennes to-day, except that the modern stories put back these wars -with the Saulteurs much further than 1740. On November 13 Henry -reached the post again, having failed to find any of the people that -he looked for. Moreover, when he got here he received a messenger from -Langlois, one of his clerks at a trading-post at the Panbian (Pembina) -Mountains, reporting that a number of more or less turbulent Crees and -Assiniboines were gathering there, and that Henry’s presence was needed -to quiet them. Two days later he set off, stopping at Bois Percé, where -“I remained about an hour with the worthless vagabonds, who do nothing -but play at the game of platter. Nothing is heard but the noise of the -dish, and children bawling from hunger; their scoundrelly fathers are -deaf to their cries until necessity obliges them to kill a bull for -their sustenance.” On his arrival at the post, he found all his people -well, and the trouble apparently over. - -The weather was now very cold. Swans were passing south in astonishing -numbers. Now the men took no more raccoons with their traps, for these -animals had begun to hibernate in the hollow trees, where they would -remain like the bears until spring, without any sustenance. - -Some time before, an Indian named Crooked Legs, while drunk, had very -severely stabbed his young wife, who now, however, had perfectly -recovered. At a drinking-match, held at the post, just after Henry’s -return, this woman, in revenge, gave her old husband a cruel beating -with a stick, and afterward burned him shockingly with a brand snatched -from the fire. - -Rum was constantly desired by the Indians, and was begged for on every -pretext. If a woman’s husband died, or a man’s wife, they came to Henry -to beg, or buy, rum to cheer their hearts in their sorrow. A curious -trapping incident is reported November 28. “La Rocque, Sr., came in -with his traps, with a skunk, a badger, and a large white wolf, all -three caught in the same trap at once, as he said. This was thought -extraordinary--indeed a falsehood--until he explained the affair. His -trap was made in a hollow stump, in the center of which there was a -deep hole in the ground. He found the wolf, just caught, and still -alive. He despatched him, and, on taking him out, noticed something -stirring and making a noise in the hole in the ground. Upon looking in -he perceived the badger, which he killed with a stick, and upon pulling -him out, smelt the horrid stench of the skunk, which was in one corner -of the hole. He soon despatched him also. From this the Indians all -predicted some great misfortune, either to the person to whom the traps -belonged, or to our fort.” - -Two days later some of the men went raccoon hunting, the weather being -warm. “They returned in the evening with seven, which they had found in -one hollow tree. The size of this tree was enormous, having a hollow -six feet in diameter, the rim or shell being two feet thick, including -the bark. Raccoon hunting is common here in the winter season. The -hunter examines every hollow tree met with, and when he sees the fresh -marks of the claws, he makes a hole with an ax, and then opens the -hollow place, in which he lights a fire, to find out if there be any -raccoons within, as they often climb trees in the autumn, and, not -finding them proper for the purpose, leave them, and seek others. But -if they be within, the smoke obliges them to ascend and put their heads -out of the hole they enter. On observing this, the ax is applied to -the tree; with the assistance of the fire it is soon down, and the -hunter stands ready to despatch the animals while they are stunned by -the fall. But sometimes they are so obstinate as to remain at the -bottom of the hole until they are suffocated or roasted to death. The -bears, both grizzly and common black, which reside on Red River, take -to hollow trees also, and are hunted by the Indians in the same manner -as raccoons. But the bears in the Hair Hills and other places never -take to the trees for their winter quarters; they reside in holes in -the ground, in the most intricate thicket they can find, generally -under the roots of trees that have been torn up by the wind, or have -otherwise fallen. These are more difficult to find, requiring good -dogs that are naturally given to hunt bears. The reason why the bears -differ so widely in the choice of their winter habitations is obvious. -The low lands along the river, where the woods principally grow, are -every spring subject to overflow, when the ice breaks up. The mud -carried down with the current and left on the banks, makes their dens -uncomfortable. On the Hair Hills and other high lands, where the ground -is free from inundation, the soft and sandy soil is not so cold as the -stiff black mud on the banks of the river, which appears to be made -ground. Frequently, on digging holes in winter, we found the frost had -penetrated the ground nearly four feet, like one solid body of ice, -while in high, dry, sandy soil it seldom exceeds one foot in depth.” - -Winter had now set in, as well by the calendar as by temperature. It -was ushered in by a great prairie fire, which seemed likely to burn -over the whole country. At first it was supposed that the Sioux had -fired the prairie, but later it appeared that the Crees had done it by -accident. These Crees reported that they had seen a calf as white as -snow in a herd of buffalo; and Henry mentions how greatly white buffalo -are esteemed among the nations of the Missouri, but that they are not -valued by the Crees and Assiniboines, except to trade to other tribes. -Occasionally buffalo are seen that are dirty gray, but these are very -rare. Christmas and New Year passed, these holidays being celebrated -by drinking, so that for New Year’s Day Henry says: “By sunrise every -soul of them was raving drunk--even the children.” Buffalo were now -seen in great abundance, and came within gun-shot of the fort. A day -or two later it was necessary to go out only a short distance from -the fort to kill buffalo, but the cold was so intense that it was -impossible to cut up those killed. On January 2 there arrived at the -fort, Berdash, a man who, as used to be not very uncommon, wore the -dress and busied himself with the occupations properly belonging to -women. He was a swift runner, and was considered the fleetest man -among the Saulteurs. “Both his speed and his courage were tested some -years ago on the Schian River, where Monsieur Reaume attempted to -make peace between the two nations, and Berdash accompanied a party -of Saulteurs to the Sioux camp. They at first appeared reconciled to -each other, at the intercession of the whites, but on the return of -the Saulteurs, the Sioux pursued them. Both parties were on foot, and -the Sioux had the name of being extraordinarily swift. The Saulteurs -imprudently dispersed in the plains, and several of them were killed, -but the party with Berdash escaped without any accident, in the -following manner: One of them had got from the Sioux a bow, but only -a few arrows. On starting and finding themselves pursued, they ran a -considerable distance, until they perceived the Sioux were gaining fast -upon them, when Berdash took the bow and arrows from his comrades, -and told them to run as fast as possible, without minding him, as he -feared no danger. He then faced the enemy, and began to let fly his -arrows. This checked their course, and they returned the compliment -with interest, but it was so far off that only a chance arrow could -have hurt him, as they had nearly spent their strength when they fell -near him. His own arrows were soon expended, but he lost no time in -gathering up those that fell near him, and thus he had a continual -supply. Seeing his friends some distance off, and the Sioux moving to -surround him, he turned and ran full speed to join his comrades, the -Sioux after him. When the latter approached too near, Berdash again -stopped and faced them, with his bow and arrows, and kept them at bay. -Thus did he continue to maneuver until they reached a spot of strong -wood, which the Sioux dared not enter. Some of the Saulteurs who were -present have often recounted the affair to me. It seemed the Sioux -from the first were inclined to treachery, being very numerous and -the others but few. The Saulteurs were well provided with guns and -ammunition, but on the first meeting were surrounded, and the guns -taken away from them, in return for which the Sioux gave them bows and -arrows; but in a manner to be of little use, giving one a bow and no -arrows, another a quiver of arrows, but no bow.” - -On January 14 he was awakened by the bellowing of buffalo, and found -the plains black, and apparently in motion. An enormous herd of buffalo -surrounded the fort, and were moving northward, extending south as -far as the eye could see. “I had seen almost incredible numbers of -buffalo in the fall, but nothing in comparison to what I now beheld. -The ground was covered at every point of the compass as far as the eye -could reach, and every animal was in motion. All hands soon attacked -them with a tremendous running fire, which put them to a quicker pace, -but had no effect in altering their course. The first roads beaten in -the snow were followed by those in the rear. They passed in full speed, -until about nine o’clock, when their numbers decreased, and they kept -further off in the plains. There was about fifteen inches of snow on -a level, in some places drifted in great banks. Notwithstanding the -buffalo were so numerous, and twelve guns were employed, we killed only -three cows and one old bull, but must have wounded a great number.” The -next day the plains were still covered with buffalo, moving northward; -and this continued for a day or two. The stock of winter provisions was -now all laid in--an abundance of good, fat buffalo meat. In February -the buffalo began to get poor, as they always do at that time, and -toward the end of the month some of the men caught a cow on the ice of -the river, the dogs having surrounded her, and the men entangling her -legs in a line, so that she fell on her side; they then dragged her, -still alive, to the fort, when she jumped to her feet and ran to attack -the dogs. Two men mounted on her back, but she was as active with this -load as before, jumping and kicking at the dogs in most agile fashion. - -On February 28 an Indian brought in a spring calf, which he had found -dead, an unusually early birth. The Indians declared that this meant an -early spring. - -The first outarde--Canada goose--was seen March 12, and on the same day -a swan. On this day, too, it was noted that the sap of the box-elder -began to run; this yields a fine white sugar, but not so sweet as -that from the real sugar maple (_Acer_), He notes that bittersweet is -abundant along the Red River, and that the Indians eat it in time of -famine. - -Now the river, on account of melting snow, began to rise, and to lift -up the ice. Henry began to get out his canoes and mend them up for the -summer use. Wildfowl made their appearance in great numbers, and on the -23rd young calves were seen by the men. And now, the ice of the river -coming down, carried with it great numbers of dead buffalo from above, -which had been drowned in crossing the river while the ice was weak. -Their numbers were astonishing. Often they were drifted to the shore, -where the women cut up some of the fattest for their own use, the -flesh seeming to be fresh and good. On the 7th of April one of his men -brought in to Henry three wolves born this spring; another had brought -in six, which he had found in one hole, and which were now very tame. -It was proposed to keep them for sledge dogs in winter. - -A little later the odor of the decaying buffalo lying there along the -river was terrible. In fact, on his journey down the river with his -goods, which were now to be despatched to Montreal, the stench of the -drowned buffalo was such that Henry could not eat his supper. - -At last he despatched his goods, and about the first of June left for -the Grand Portage. The proceeds of the winter’s trade amounted to -nearly two thousand pounds, Halifax currency. - -[Illustration: TWO MEN MOUNTED ON HER BACK, BUT SHE WAS AS ACTIVE WITH -THIS LOAD AS BEFORE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER) - -II - - -In August, 1801, Henry was on his way to a new post on the Pembina, -the one which Langlois had established the year before. He intended -to establish also a post at Grandes Fourches, the site of the present -town of Grand Forks, North Dakota. This business, and his travels -to other subsidiary trading-posts that he built at various points, -occupied the autumn. Game was abundant, and so were fish. The Hudson’s -Bay Company, the opposition, were not far off, and there was some -intercourse between the men of the two companies. On March 14, during -a drinking-match, occured one of the fights among the Indians which -were so common in those days of abundant liquor. “Gros Bras, in a fit -of jealousy, stabbed Auposoi to death with a hand-dague; the first -stroke opened his left side, the second his belly, and the third his -breast. He never stirred, although he had a knife in his belt, and died -instantly. Soon after this, Auposoi’s brother a boy about ten years of -age, took the deceased’s gun loaded it with two balls, and approached -Gros Bras’ tent. Putting the muzzle of the gun through the door, the -boy fired the two balls into his breast, and killed him dead, just as -he was reproaching his wife for her affection for Auposoi, and boasting -of the vengeance he had taken. The little fellow ran into the woods and -hid. Little Shell found the old woman, Auposoi’s mother, in her tent; -he instantly stabbed her. Ondainoiache then came in, took the knife, -and gave her a second stab. Little Shell, in his turn, taking the -knife, gave a third blow. In this manner did these two rascals continue -to murder the old woman as long as there was any life in her. The boy -escaped into Langlois’ house, and was kept hid until they were all -sober.” - -March 15, a swan, a turkey-buzzard, and a hawk, the first spring birds, -were seen; and by the middle of April wild-fowl were plenty, and calves -were becoming numerous. Passenger pigeons were passing north, and -toward the end of the month some Indians came in with thirty-six whole -beaver in a skin canoe. In May came the news of a Sioux attack on the -Saulteurs, in which seven of the latter were killed. Henry planted his -garden, and soon after made ready for his departure to join the brigade. - -The next September he was back again at Panbian River, trading with -the Indians, and, of course, handing out rum to them. His entry for -February 15 contains a small temperance lecture which represented -what he sometimes preached, but never practised. As he says: “The -Indians totally neglected their ancient customs; and to what can this -degeneration be ascribed but to their intercourse with us, particularly -as they are so unfortunate as to have a continual succession of -opposition parties to teach them roguery, and to destroy both mind and -body with that pernicious article rum? What a different set of people -they would be were there not a drop of liquor in the country. If a -murder is committed among the Saulteurs, it is due to a drinking match. -You may truly say that liquor is the root of all evil in the West.” - -Spring came on with the usual signs. The women were making sugar at -the last of March (1803), and it was noted that spring that very few -buffalo drifted down the river. The plains of the Red River were -covered with water from the sudden melting of the snow, and the men -suffered much, for they were continually on the march, looking up -Indians along every stream. The water was commonly knee-deep, and -in some places much deeper, and was usually covered with ice in the -morning, making the walking tiresome, and often dangerous. Some of the -best men, Henry says, lose the use of their legs while still in the -prime of life. The Indians were now bringing in the proceeds of their -spring hunt, and exchanging it for rum. When the time came around, -Henry interrupted his hunting and his trading to plant his garden, -sowing potatoes, cabbage, and many root crops. With the end of May -came the mosquitoes, a terrible pest. Among the articles traded for -was maple sugar, an important article of food in that country. As -usual, about midsummer, Henry started down the river with his furs, and -reached Fort William July 3. - -On the 29th of the same month he started on his return journey, with -a brigade of eight canoes; and about two months later, September 20, -found himself at the present Winnipeg, and soon afterward at the old -post on the Panbian River. - -Horses had now begun to be used in the trade at this point, and Henry -grumbles about them in a long entry, which is worth reproducing: “It -is true they are useful animals, but if there were not one in all -the Northwest we should have less trouble and expense. Our men would -neither be so burdened with families, nor so indolent and insolent -as they are, and the natives in general would be more honest and -industrious. Let an impartial eye look into the affair, to discover -whence originates the unbounded extravagance of our meadow gentry, both -white and native, and horses will be found one of the principal causes. -Let us view the bustle and noise which attended the transportation of -five pieces of goods to a place where the houses were built in 1801-02. -The men were up at break of day, and their horses tackled long before -sunrise; but they were not ready to move before ten o’clock, when I had -the curiosity to climb on top of my house to watch their motions, and -observe their order of march. - -“Antoine Payet, guide and second in command, leads the van with a cart -drawn by two horses, and loaded with private baggage, cassetetes, -bags, kettles, and mashqueminctes. Madame Payet follows the cart, with -a child a year old on her back, very merry. Charles Bottineau, with -two horses and a cart, loaded with 1½ packs, his own baggage, and -two young children, with kettles and other trash hanging on to it. -Madame Bottineau, with a squalling infant on her back, scolding and -tossing it about. Joseph Dubord goes on foot, with his long pipestem -and calumet in his hand. Madame Dubord follows on foot, carrying his -tobacco pouch with a broad bead tail. Antoine Thellier, with a cart -and two horses, loaded with 1½ packs of goods, and Dubois’ baggage. -Antoine La Pointe, with another cart and horses, loaded with two pieces -of goods, and with baggage belonging to Brisebois, Jasmin, and Pouliot, -and a kettle hung on each side. Auguste Brisebois follows, with only -his gun on his shoulder and a fresh-lighted pipe in his mouth. Michel -Jasmin goes next, like Brisebois, with gun and pipe, puffing out clouds -of smoke. Nicolas Pouliot, the greatest smoker in the Northwest, has -nothing but pipe and pouch; those three fellows have taken a farewell -dram, and lighted fresh pipes, go on brisk and merry, playing numerous -pranks. Dormin Livernois, with a young mare, the property of Mr. -Langlois, loaded with weeds for smoking, an old worsted bag (madame’s -property), some squashes and potatoes, a small keg of fresh water, and -two young whelps, howling. Next goes Livernois’ young horse, drawing -a travaille, loaded with baggage and a large worsted mashguemcate, -belonging to Madame Langlois. Next appears Madame Cameron’s mare, -kicking, rearing, and snorting, hauling a travaille loaded with a bag -of flour, cabbage, turnips, onions, a small keg of water, and a large -kettle of broth. Michel Langlois, who is master of the band, now comes -on leading a horse that draws a travaille nicely covered with a new -painted tent, under which his daughter and Mrs. Cameron lie at full -length, very sick; this covering or canopy has a pretty effect in the -caravan, and appears at a great distance in the plains. Madame Langlois -brings up the rear of the human beings, following the travaille with a -slow step and melancholy air, attending to the wants of her daughter, -who, nothwithstanding her sickness, can find no other expressions of -gratitude to her parents than by calling them dogs, fools, beasts, -etc. The rear-guard consists of a long train of twenty dogs, some for -sleighs, some for game, and others for no use whatever, except to snarl -and destroy meat. The total forms a procession nearly a mile long, and -appears like a large band of Assiniboines.” - -Early in November Henry went over to the Hair Hills. In March, on a -journey from the Hair Hills to his home, he says that he travelled -in the night always, preferring to do so at this season of the year, -partly to avoid snow blindness, and partly because the cold of the -night makes travel easier than during the day, when the snow is melted -and soft, and dogs and sledges sink deep into it. In April, when he was -chasing buffalo, he came near leaving his bones in the plains, a prey -for the wolves. “This was occasioned by my horse stumbling while at -full speed. I was just drawing my gun from the belt to fire, holding -it by the barrel, near the muzzle, when the sudden shock caused the -priming to fire the gun; the ball passed near my hip and struck in the -ground, and the gun flew some distance. I was in the midst of the herd; -a fine large calf passing near me, I dismounted, caught him by the -tail, and held him fast; he began to bleat, when instantly the mother -turned and rushed at me; I was glad to let go and run to my horse. As I -reflected on my narrow escape, it brought to my mind a similar affair -which happened to me some years ago at Michipicoten, when shooting -wildfowl in the spring, in a small canoe. In attempting to remove my -gun from my left to my right side, passing the muzzle behind my back, -the cock got fast in one of the bars, and, on my pulling the gun -forward from behind me, she went off; the load grazed my right side, -taking a piece of my belt and capot away.” - -In April he bought a beautiful white buffalo skin; the hair was long, -soft and perfectly white, resembling a sheep’s fleece. Early in May -extraordinary numbers of wild pigeons were seen, and the Indian women -were preparing the ground for their farming. With the summer came -the usual packing of the furs, and the journey to Kamanistiquia. The -return journey was a short one, and Henry reached the Panbian River -early in September. In October he writes, as showing the excellence of -his horse, that one day he ran an elk five miles before killing it; -then chased a hare, which he killed after a long pursuit; and finally, -toward evening, he ran a herd of buffalo, and killed a fat cow for -supper. Besides these long races, he had covered about thirty-six miles -of travel. - -This winter, because he refused to give credit to an Indian for a -blanket, Henry was twice shot at, but missed. On his return to his post -that summer, he learned of an attack on a small camp of his Indians -by Sioux a month earlier. This is the story as Henry gives it, and -it may be retold because it illustrates Indian modes: “My beau-père -(father-in-law) was the first man that fell, about eight o’clock in -the morning. He had climbed a tree to see if the buffalo were at -hand, as they were tented there to make dried provisions. He had no -sooner reached the top than two Sioux discoverers [scouts] fired at -the same moment, and both balls passed through his body. He had only -time to call out to his family, who were in the tent, about a hundred -paces from him, ‘Save yourselves, the Sioux are killing us!’ and fell -dead to the ground, his body breaking several branches of the tree -as it dropped. The noise brought the Indians out of the tent, when, -perceiving their danger, the women and children instantly ran through -the plains toward an island of wood on Tongue River, about a mile -distant, and on a direct line toward the fort. The men took their arms -and made off also, keeping in the rear of their women and children, -whom they urged on. The four surviving men had not gone more than a -quarter of a mile when they saw the main body of the war party, on -horseback, rushing down upon them. Crossing Tongue River, and in a -few moments coming up with them, the Sioux began to fire. The four -men, by expert maneuvers and incessant fire, prevented the enemy from -closing in on them, while the women and children continued to fly, and -the men followed. They were within about two hundred paces of the -wood, and some of the most active had actually entered it, when the -enemy surrounded and fell upon them. Three of the Saulteurs fled in -different directions; Grand Gueule escaped before they were completely -surrounded, but the other two were killed. One who remained to protect -the women and children was a brave fellow--Aceguemanche, or Little -Chief; he waited deliberately until the enemy came very near, when he -fired at one who appeared to be a chief, and knocked the Sioux from his -horse. Three young girls and a boy were taken prisoners; the remainder -were all murdered and mutilated in a horrible manner. Several women -and children had escaped in the woods, where the enemy chased them on -horseback, but the willows and brush were so intricate that every one -of these escaped. A boy about twelve years old, when the Sioux pursued, -crawled into a hollow under a bunch of willows, which a horseman leaped -over without perceiving him. One of the little girls who escaped tells -a pitiful story of her mother, who was killed. This woman, having two -young children that could not walk fast enough, had taken one of them -on her back and prevailed upon her sister-in-law to carry the other; -but when they got near the woods, and the enemy rushed upon them with -hideous yells and war-whoops, the young woman was so frightened that -she threw down the child and soon overtook the mother, who, observing -that the child was missing, and hearing its screams, kissed her little -daughter--the one who relates the story--saying, with tears streaming -from her eyes: ‘Take courage, my daughter; try to reach the woods, and -if you do, go to your eldest sister, who will be kind to you; I must -turn back and recover your youngest sister, or die in the attempt. Take -courage; run fast, my daughter!’ Poor woman! She actually did recover -her child, and was running off with both children, when she was felled -to the ground by a blow on the head with a war-club. She recovered -instantly, drew her knife, and plunged it into the neck of her -murderer; but others coming up, she was despatched. Thus my belle-mère -ended her days.” - -This same story is told by Tanner, who was then an Indian captive, -living with the Chippewas. Tanner even mentions Henry’s name, and -speaks of his father-in-law having been killed. The Saulteurs were -determined to avenge the death of their relations, and Henry furnished -them with ammunition for their war journey. Later, he visited the -battle-field and the Sioux camp, and judged from the sign that there -must have been about three hundred men in the Sioux party. In October -the remains of the Sioux killed by Little Chief were discovered by some -of the Indians; and the certainty that their enemies had met one loss -was some satisfaction to the Saulteurs. - -[Illustration: FUR TRADERS OF THE NORTH.] - -Although Henry had made an agreement with Mr. Miller, an agent of the -Hudson’s Bay Company, by which the rum to be given to the Indians -should be limited, the winter did not pass without deaths due to -drinking. One of these was an accident where a drunken Indian knocked -down a gun which, exploding, killed one of Henry’s men, who was -lying on a bed in the next room. The profits for the season’s work in -1805 and 1806, as given in Henry’s diary, are nearly three thousand -five hundred pounds. - -Early in July, 1806, after his return from down the river, Henry made -preparations to set off on a tour to the south-west, to the country -of the Mandans, who then, as now, lived on the Missouri River. There -had been heavy rains, and the plains of the Red River were covered -with water, or else were so muddy that travel was slow and exceedingly -laborious. The horses often sank up to their knees in mud, and at -times had water up to their bellies, while the little rivulets which -they crossed they were obliged to swim, carrying on their heads such -articles as they wished to keep dry. Mosquitoes were a veritable -plague, and Henry had prepared a mask of thin dressed caribou skin, -which in some measure protected him; but those who were not provided -with some defense suffered terribly. Only when the wind blew was there -any relief. They were more than once obliged to make rafts, and when -they were naked, hauling the raft back and forth, they had no defense -against the mosquitoes. The horses suffered as much as the men. - -The final start for the Mandans was from the establishment on Mouse -River, and the party consisted of seven persons, of whom one was -a Saulteur, a brother-in-law of Chaboillez, who had undertaken to -guide the party to the Mandans. It was midsummer, and they travelled -west-southwest over delightful prairies, where antelope were -exceedingly abundant. After crossing Mouse River, they found buffalo -in great plenty, and all in motion, from east to west. It was the -rutting season, and the herds were noisy and excited. On the 18th of -July, as they were crossing the high Missouri plains, they came in -sight of the buttes, called Maison du Chien, now commonly known as the -Dogden Buttes. This is one of the great landmarks of the country, and -many stirring adventures have taken place within sight of it. A little -later they could see the high red banks of the Missouri before them, a -long way off. - -When they reached it, they found plenty of tracks of people there, -and an abundance of last year’s corncobs. The winter village of the -Minitaris was near. A well-defined trail led down the river, and they -were several times in danger of breaking their necks in deep pits, -which the natives had dug in the path to catch wolves and foxes in -winter. Some of these were ten feet deep, and hollowed out in places -to about thirty feet in circumference, while the entrance was no wider -than a foot-path, and about five feet in length. “These holes are -covered with dried grass, at the season when the wolves are caught, -and every morning are found to contain some of those animals. In -summer the grass grows strong and high about the mouths, entirely -concealing them until one arrives upon the very brink, and he is in -danger of tumbling in headlong.” Down the river about five miles they -came to a Mandan village. The people received them pleasantly, and -the Black Cat, the chief, took them to one of his houses, which was -kept for strangers. The people were desirous of trading, and could -not understand why the white men should have come so far out of mere -curiosity. As usual in these permanent villages of earth lodges, the -horses at night were confined in one part of the lodge while the people -slept in the other. The Mandans had large earthen pots of different -sizes, from five gallons to one quart, used solely for boiling corn -and beans. The Black Cat was told the next day by a Canadian who lived -in the neighboring Mandan village, who his visitors were, and at once -brought out the American flag, given him in the autumn of 1804 by -Captains Lewis and Clark, and hoisted it over the hut in which the -strangers were staying. When they were about to cross the river and go -to the opposite village, they packed up such goods as they had, and -the few things they had purchased, chiefly provisions, and gave them -into the care of the chief. “These people are much given to thieving, -but in the hut in which a stranger is lodged his property may be left -in perfect security; none dare touch it, as the master conceives his -honor concerned in whatever is placed under his immediate protection. -Out of doors, if they can pick your pocket or pilfer any article, it -is gone in an instant, and search would be in vain; every one would -wish to appear innocent, although they are not offended when accused of -stealing, but laugh the matter away.” - -Henry and his people crossed the river in bull-boats, and were well -received at the other Mandan village. He noted the expertness of the -young men in getting the horses across, one swimming ahead with the -rope in his teeth, while others swam on each side, and in the rear, -driving each horse very rapidly. He also saw bull-boats--a new vessel -to him. They had hardly reached the village when there came in some -Pawnees from down the river on an embassy to treat for peace. They -could not speak the language either of the Mandans or the Minitaris, -but they talked freely in signs; and this sign language seems to have -been a surprise to Henry. He says: “They hold conversations for several -hours upon different subjects, during the whole of which time not a -single word is pronounced upon either side, and still they appear to -comprehend each other perfectly well. This mode of communication is -natural to them. Their gestures are made with the greatest ease, and -they never seem to be at a loss for a sign to express their meaning.” - -These people collected their fuel in the spring, when the ice broke -up, and great quantities of wood drifted down. The young men were -accustomed to swim out among the drifting ice and bring in the trees, -however large, which they hauled out on the bank. Immense piles of -driftwood were seen opposite each village, and some of the trees were -very large. While collecting this driftwood, they also drew to land -great numbers of drowned buffalo, of which they were very fond. - -He noticed--as have many others--that some children were gray-haired, -and that others were blond. A Minitari was seen with yellow hair, -something not unexampled in old times. - -The men wore their hair twisted into a number of small tails, hanging -down the back to below the waist. In some of them it trailed on the -ground. The Cheyennes to-day tell us that a hundred years ago the men -of their tribe wore their hair in the same fashion. From the village of -the Mandans they went on up the river to those of the Soulier [Amahami, -a tribe now extinct] and Minitari villages. Here they met Mackenzie and -Caldwell, employees in the service of the Northwest Company, who had -been residing some little time in the village. - -Henry was not particularly well pleased with his reception here, and -indeed the Indians paid little attention to the white men, and seemed -to despise them. The village, which formerly contained nine hundred -houses, now had only a hundred and thirty, smallpox and other diseases -having reduced them to that number. While in this village the white -men found it dangerous to stray out of the hut without a stout stick -to keep off the dogs, which were so numerous and savage as sometimes -actually to attack them. The people had many horses. Henry greatly -objected to their custom of apparently becoming dissatisfied with their -bargain after a trade had been concluded, and returning and taking back -the article they had sold, while giving up the price paid for it. For -example: “One of the natives had a turkey cock’s tail, great numbers -of which they got from the Schians, and which serve them as fans; this -was a new and fresh one of beautiful hue. I gave him five rounds of -ammunition for it, with which he appeared well satisfied, and left me, -but soon returned with the ammunition, and demanded the tail. Being -loth to part with it, I added five more rounds to the price, which he -accepted and went away. However, he soon reappeared and I added four -more; but to no purpose, for he continued to go and come until the -payment amounted to thirty rounds. Upon his next appearance I offered -forty rounds; but he would no longer listen to any offer, threw down my -ammunition, and insisted upon my returning him the tail, which I was -obliged to do.” - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER) - -III - - -On July 28 they started on their return to the north, in constant fears -and alarms lest the Assiniboines should steal their horses. A few days -later the horses, troubled by mosquitoes, broke their ropes, and eight -of them ran off in their hobbles. These could not be found again, -and some of the people were obliged to go forward on foot, while the -baggage was loaded on the remaining horses. - -On his journey back to the Pembina River, Henry had an experience -comical to read about, but not to endure. “We took the traverse for -the mountain, but on coming to Cypress River found it had overflowed -its banks about three acres on each side, and could find no fordable -place. We were obliged to turn out of our way some miles, in going to -where we perceived a large, dry poplar tree, and a few stunted willows, -but there we had the mortification to find that the wood stood on the -opposite side of the river. There being no alternative, we unloaded our -horses and stripped. I crossed over, collected what brush I could find, -and with the poplar formed a raft, so very slight as to carry scarcely -more than fifty pounds’ weight. The mosquitoes were intolerable, and as -we were obliged to remain naked for about four hours, we suffered more -than I can describe. The grass on each side was too high to haul our -raft through to dry land; we could use it only on the river by means of -two long cords, one fastened to each end. Ducharme hauled it over to -his side, and after making it fast, he went to dry land for a load in -water up to his armpits, whilst I waited with my whole body immersed -until he brought down a load and laid it upon the raft. I then hauled -it over and carried the load to dry land upon my head. Every time I -landed the mosquitoes plagued me insufferably; and still worse, the -horse that I had crossed over upon was so tormented that he broke his -fetters and ran away. I was under the cruel necessity of pursuing him -on the plains entirely naked; fortunately I caught him and brought him -back. I suffered a good deal from the sharp-pointed grass pricking my -bare feet, and mosquito bites covered my body. The sun was set before -we finished our transportation. The water in this river is always -excessively cold, and by the time we got all over, our bodies were as -blue as indigo; we were shivering like aspen leaves, and our legs were -cut and chafed by the coarse, stiff grass. We shot an old swan, and -caught two young ones that could not fly; this made us a comfortable -supper.” - -Henry reached the fort August 14. - -“One of our hunters killed thirty-six prime bears in the course of the -season on the Hair Hills. Whatever number of bears an Indian may kill -in the summer or fall is considered of no consequence, as they are -valueless and easy to hunt, but after they have taken up their winter -quarters the Indians glory in killing them.” - -In August, 1808, Henry finally left the Panbian River on his way -westward, bidding adieu also to the Saulteur tribes, among which, as -he says, he had passed sixteen long winters. His journey was through -Lake Winnipeg to the Saskatchewan and Lake Bourbon, now known as Cedar -Lake. On the 22nd he passed old Fort Bourbon, established in 1749 -by Vérendrye, and entered one of the channels of the Saskatchewan. -Wild-fowl were very abundant as they pushed up the river. At last they -entered Sturgeon Lake, and reached Cumberland House. They kept on up -the stream, ascending the north branch, from time to time meeting -Indians, some of whom were Assiniboines, called Assiniboines of the -Saskatchewan, and as they had before this purchased some horses, they -were fearful that these might be stolen. It was now September, and the -bushes were loaded with choke-cherries and service berries. Buffalo -paths running in every direction were deep and numerous. Ammunition -was issued early in September to the men for purposes of defense. Soon -buffalo were met, and here Henry first ran these animals over the rough -ground of the plains, covered with large round, stones, and pierced at -frequent intervals with badger holes. On September 13 he reached Fort -Vermilion, where was a fort of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and found the -Blackfeet all about. Here Henry wintered, expecting to be visited by -numerous tribes from the south. - -Just before Christmas, in December, the Blackfeet invited Henry and his -Hudson’s Bay neighbor to come to their camp and see buffalo driven into -the pound. The two men went in dog sledges, and were kindly received -by the Indians, but the weather was insufferable, being foggy, and the -wind was contrary. They viewed the pound, where they “had only the -satisfaction of viewing the mangled carcasses strewn about the pound. -The bulls were mostly entire, none but good cows having been cut up. -The stench from this inclosure was great, even at this season, for the -weather was mild.” From the lookout hill, buffalo were seen in enormous -numbers, but as the wind was unfavorable, every herd that was brought -near to the pound dispersed and ran away. After having been there two -days, Henry became disgusted, and returned to the post; but he was -followed by a number of Blackfeet, who arrived the next day, and told -him that they had scarcely left when a large herd was brought into the -pound. - -On the 26th of September, 1810, Henry set off on horseback, westward; -the canoes, of course, coming up the stream. Their destination was -Rocky Mountain House, a post located on the north Saskatchewan River, -a mile and a half above the mouth of Clearwater, three miles below -Pangman’s Tree, so named from the fact that Peter Pangman carved an -inscription on it when he first sighted the mountains in 1790. - -On the way up the stream they found signs of beaver extremely -abundant; but although one of the Indians set traps in the hope of -taking some, the winds blew the smoke of the camp toward the traps, -and the beaver did not leave their houses that night. The next day, -however, they took two, the signs still showing the presence of great -quantities of beaver. Ahead of Henry was a camp of Sarsi, twenty-five -lodges, which had just left, for at their camp on Medicine Lodge River, -a branch of the Red Deer; the fires were still burning. They must have -made a good hunt here, since the bones of beaver, bear, moose, elk -and buffalo lay about their camp in great quantities. That afternoon -they met five lodges of Bloods and Sarsi, with whom they camped. Game -was abundant, and Henry notes on the 5th the appearance of a herd of -strongwood buffalo, the bison of the hills and mountains, so different -in appearance and some of their habits from those of the prairie. Here, -too, were seen the fresh tracks of a grizzly bear, measuring fourteen -inches in length. - -When they reached the fort they found the Piegans friendly and quiet, -but suspicious of the whites. “These Piegans had the fresh hide of -a bull they had killed at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. This was -really a curiosity; the hair on the back was dirty white, and the long -hair under the throat and forelegs iron-gray, and sides and belly were -yellow. I wished to purchase it, but the owners would not part with it -under any consideration.” It is well understood that white buffalo, -or those that are spotted, or indeed of any unusual color, are very -highly esteemed by the tribes of the plains. Henry has referred to -this before, and I have called attention to the sacredness of the white -buffalo’s hide among the Blackfeet, Bloods, and Piegans, and among the -Cheyennes further to the south. - -It was now an active time, Bloods, Piegans, and Sarsi coming and -going, bringing in some beaver, for which they received tobacco, rum, -and trifles, and occasionally a gift of clothing to some man who had -brought in an especially good lot of beaver. On November 4 the traders -had in store 720 beaver, 33 grizzly bears, 20 buffalo robes, 300 -muskrats, 100 lynx--not a bad trade for the season of the year. - -November 9: “I rode up river about three miles to the rising ground on -the north side, where Mr. Pangman carved his name on the pine in 1790. -This spot was the utmost distant of discoveries on the Saskatchewan -toward the Rocky Mountains, of which, indeed, we had a tolerable view -from this hill. The winding course of the river is seen until it enters -the gap of the mountains, a little east of which appears another gap, -through which, I am told, flows a south branch that empties into the -Saskatchewan some miles above this place. The mountains appear at no -great distance, all covered with snow; while we have none.” The arrival -this day of an express from below brought the news that an act of -Parliament had been passed prohibiting the sale of spirituous liquors -among the Indians. - -The weather was now cold, the river occasionally choking up with ice, -and snow fell. The canoes were split by the frost, and axes broke -while the men were chopping with them. Men were sent out to get dogs -for hauling, and as soon as the country became covered with snow, dog -trains were sent down to lower Terre Blanche to bring up goods. Gros -Ventres of the Prairie had just returned with sixty horses, stolen from -the Flatheads, and others had gone off to try to take more. On the 27th -of December, “Our hunter had killed a large grizzly bear, very lean, -and, as usual with them in that state, very wicked; he narrowly escaped -being devoured. They seldom den for the winter, as black bears do, but -wander about in search of prey.” - -In February Henry made a trip to the Continental Divide, to where the -waters of a branch of the Columbia rise within a very short distance -of the Saskatchewan. He was obliged to tell the Piegans that he was -going down the stream instead of up. Travel was by dog sledge, and -over the frozen river, in which there were no air holes to be seen. On -the way up, during the first day, they found a carcass of a deer that -had been killed by wolves. The ice was of great thickness, so that at -night, when a man was endeavoring to get water from the stream, he was -obliged to cut with an axe for an hour before it flowed. As they went -up the stream, the banks grew higher and nearer together, and at one -point there were seen tracks of animals coming down the mountains among -the rocks. “These are the gray sheep which have been seen about this -place, and which delight to dwell among precipices and caverns, where -they feed on a peculiar sort of clay.” The reference is evidently to a -“lick,” a place where a mineral spring has given a saline taste to the -earth round about. Such licks are common enough in the Rocky Mountains -and many other places, and are regularly visited by sheep, which often -gnaw away the earth in many places and over a considerable space. A -little further up the stream they were in full view of the mountains. -The river being low, flowed through numerous channels, some of which -were free from ice; others which were frozen, had water flowing over -the ice. On account of the wind there was little snow on the gravel -bars, and the hauling was hard for the dogs and bad for the sleds. - -On the 5th he overtook his people, who had started several days -earlier, and who had killed three sheep and three cows. Here Henry -stopped for a day, and sent off three men to hunt sheep, wishing to -obtain the entire skin of an old ram. This they failed to secure, but -one of them had seen the tracks of a white goat. The next day, keeping -on, sheep tracks were seen, and Henry indulges in reflections on the -wonderful places which they passed over, and their sureness of foot. -The following day, “Shortly after leaving camp, we saw a herd of about -thirty rams feeding among the rocks on the north side. They did not -seem to be shy, though the noise of our bells and dogs was sufficient -to have alarmed a herd of buffalo two miles off. The rams stood for -some time gazing at us, and did not retreat until some people with -dogs climbed up to fire at them, when they set off at full speed, -directing their course up the mountain. I was astonished to see with -what agility they scaled the cliffs and crags. At one time I supposed -them hemmed in by rocks so steep and smooth that it seemed impossible -for any animal to escape being dashed to pieces below, but the whole -herd passed this place on a narrow horizontal ledge, without a single -misstep, and were soon out of sight.” Here Henry seems to have seen his -first flock of dippers, which interested him not a little; and on the -ice above this point he found the remains of a ram which had been run -down by wolves and devoured. - -There were plenty of buffalo on Kutenai Plains, which they now reached, -but they killed none, a hunter firing at a sheep having driven them -off. Moose and elk were plenty here, as well as white-tailed deer and -grizzly bears; and here, too, were seen “white partridges”--in other -words, white-tailed ptarmigan. Still following up the river, the snow -grew deeper and deeper, so that at length they were obliged to take to -snow-shoes, and to beat a path for their dogs. On the 9th of February -they reached the Continental Divide, and passing through thick forest -came to a small opening where three streams of Columbian waters join. -The brook thus formed is Blueberry Creek, which runs into the Columbia. -That morning, when leaving camp, in the Kutenai Park, a place where -the Kutenais used to drive buffalo over the cliff, Henry had left his -hunter, Desjarlaix, behind, telling him to try to kill a white goat. -Shortly after his return to the camp, his hunter came in and told -Henry that he had seen large white goats on the mountain, directly off -Kutenai Park, where he had been trying since daybreak to get a shot at -them. “He was almost exhausted, the snow being up to his middle, and -the ground so steep as not to admit of snow-shoes. He had worked about -a quarter of the way up the mountain, but had been obliged to abandon -the attempt to reach the animals. They did not appear the least shy, -but stood gazing at him, and cropping the stunted shrubs and blades of -long grass which grew in crevices in places where the wind had blown -the snow off. As I desired to obtain the skin of one of those animals, -I gave him dry mittens and trousers to put on, went with him to the -foot of the mountain, and I pointed out a place where I supposed it was -possible to reach them. We could perceive all three, still standing -abreast on the edge of a precipice, looking down upon us, but they were -at a great height. He once more undertook the arduous task of climbing -up in pursuit of them, while I returned to the camp. A hunter in these -mountains requires many pairs of shoes (i. e., moccasins), the rocks -are so rough and sharp that a pair of good strong moose-leather shoes -are soon torn to pieces. The white goat is [not] larger than the gray -sheep, thickly covered with long, pure white wool, and has short black, -nearly erect horns. These animals seldom leave the mountain tops; -winter or summer they prefer the highest regions. Late in the evening -my hunter returned, exhausted, and covered with ice, having labored in -the snow till his clothes became all wet, and soon after stiff with -ice. He had ascended half way when the sun set, which obliged him to -return.” - -The next day Henry wished to send his hunter out again, but the poor -fellow was so done up and his legs so swollen by the exercise of the -day before that the effort was given up. They therefore started down -the river, past the camp of the day before, where they found that the -men had killed sheep, buffalo, a large black wolf, and a Canada lynx. -The following day they saw a herd of rams on the rocks, and tried to -get a shot, “but one of our men, being some distance ahead, and not -observing them, continued to drive on, which alarmed and drove them up -into the mountains. I regretted this very much as the herd consisted -of old rams with enormous horns; one of them appeared to be very lean, -with extraordinarily heavy horns, whose weight he seemed scarcely -able to support. When the horns grow to such great length, forming a -complete curve, the ends project on both sides of the head so as to -prevent the animal from feeding, which, with their great weight, causes -the sheep to dwindle to a mere skeleton and die. We soon afterward saw -a herd of buffalo on the hills near the river, but on hearing the sound -of the bells they ran away, and appeared much more shy than sheep.” -Continuing down the river, they reached the fort, February 13. - -Henry finished the winter at Rocky Mountain House, and in May, 1811, -started down the river to Fort Augustus. - -There is now a long break, extending over two years, in Henry’s -journal, the third part, as Dr. Coues has divided it, being devoted to -the Columbia. November 15, 1813, finds him at Astoria, the scene of so -many trials of fur traders, and the place about which so many books -have been written. The journal for the two intervening years has not -been discovered. It may yet turn up and, if it shall, will undoubtedly -give us much interesting information. What we know is that Henry came -to Astoria from Fort William, but how he got there we do not know. His -party came, however, in bark canoes, for a contemporary writer says -as much as that. Not only was Henry here on the west coast, but his -nephew, William Henry, who had been frequently associated with him in -past years, even back on the Pembina River. - -The character of the Indians here interested Henry, and he makes his -usual frank and not always elegant comments on them. On November 30 -the British ship “Raccoon” reached Astoria, captured the place, and -thereafter it was a British trading-post, under the name Fort George. -Duncan McDougal, the chief factor, had left the Northwest Company -to enter Mr. Astor’s service, in 1810, but without any particular -hesitation he surrendered to the British ship, although the Indians -were only too anxious to defend the place for the Americans, and to -assist the white men in holding it. As a matter of fact, however, most -of the employees of Mr. Astor were British subjects, and were very glad -to have the place taken. - -Much time was expended on the final settlement of the accounts between -McDougal, who had been Mr. Astor’s representative at Astoria, and the -representatives of the Northwest Company, who were now in possession; -but at last this was all finished, and on December 31 the “Raccoon” -made sail, and disappeared behind Point Adams. - -Rains were constant, and the fur traders and their property suffered -much from wet and dampness. With this spring, Henry for the first -time seems to have seen the Indians catching smelts and herrings, and -describes the well-known rake used on the western coast: “They had a -pole about ten feet long and two inches thick, on one side of which was -fixed a range of small sharp bones, like teeth, about one inch long, a -quarter of an inch asunder, the range of teeth ascending six feet up -the blade. This instrument is used in smelt fishery.” As is well known, -the Indians sweep this instrument through the water in places where the -small fish are schooled, and at each sweep of the rake from one to half -dozen fish are impaled, when the implement being brought to the surface -and held over the canoe, the fish are jarred from it into the vessel. -On the 28th of February a ship, the “Pedler,” brought Mr. Hunt, who was -second to Mr. Astor in the management of the Pacific Fur Company, and -headed the original overland Astor expedition in 1810-1812. - -There was now a gathering of all the partners and those interested in -the Northwest Company and the Pacific Fur Company for a settling of -accounts between Hunt and McDougal. The “Pedler” got under way April 2. -On April 4 a brigade of ten canoes set off up the river. This left a -small contingent at Fort George, and this contingent very ill provided. -They had a little spoiled California beef and a little bad grease. In -addition they had only the smelts caught by the Indians and these were -often spoiled, so that the men refused to eat them, and the little -provision that they could buy from the Indians, a few beaver, deer, and -elk--called _biche_ by Henry. As a result many of the men were ill, and -fourteen were in hospital at one time. To help out the lack of sugar or -molasses, they experimented in making a decoction of camas root, which -produces a kind of syrup, preferable to molasses for sweetening coffee. -Among the skins brought in by the Indians were occasionally those of -tame cats, which Henry conjectures to be the offspring of cats lost -from Spanish ships that had been cast ashore. - -April 22 a ship was seen, which proved to be the “Isaac Todd,” on -which came Mr. J. C. McTavish, who was to take charge of Fort George -as governor. Work went on; loading and unloading the ship, buying -provisions, the annoyances of small quarrels between various people. -The entry in Henry’s diary of May 21, 1814, is partly finished, and -then ends with a dash; for on Sunday, May 22, Alexander Henry, Donald -McTavish, and five sailors were drowned while going out to the ship. - -So perished Alexander Henry, the younger, after twenty-two years of -adventure, extending from the Great Lakes to the Pacific, and from the -Missouri River north to Lake Athabasca. It may fairly be said of all -the books that have been written by the early travellers and traders in -America this is the most interesting and the most curious. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -ROSS COX - -I - - -On the 17th of October, 1811, the ship “Beaver,” Captain Cornelius -Sowles, sailed from New York for the mouth of the Columbia River. -She carried one partner, six clerks, and a number of artisans and -voyageurs, of the Pacific Fur Company, an association of which John -Jacob Astor was the chief proprietor. Among the clerks on this ship -was Ross Cox, who, some years later, published a work in two volumes, -called _The Columbia River, or Scenes and Adventures During a Residence -of Six Years on the Western Side of the Rocky Mountains among Various -Tribes of Indians Hitherto Unknown, Together with a Journey Across the -American Continent_. - -Cox was a British subject, but, like many of his compatriots, was eager -to secure an appointment in Mr. Astor’s company, for he was captivated -by the love of novelty, and by the hope of speedily realizing an -independence in the new country that was being opened. - -It will be remembered that, for about a hundred years after its -charter had been granted, the Hudson’s Bay Company made little effort -to extend into the interior the trading-posts which it, alone, had -the privilege of establishing on the shores of the Hudson’s Bay and -its tributary rivers. True, trading-posts had been established in -the interior, but chiefly by the French traders, who had practically -possessed the country until the close of the French and Indian War. -Then came the founding of the Northwest Fur Company of Canada, before -long a formidable rival to the Hudson’s Bay Company. It was conducted -on the wiser plan of giving each one of its employees the chance to -rise and become a partner, provided only his success justified the -promotion. The Hudson’s Bay Company, on the other hand, hired its men -and paid them regularly, but offered no inducements to extra exertion -on the part of its officers. The result could not be doubtful; the new -company pressed the old one hard; and consolidation at length took -place between the two. - -In the early part of the last century, John Jacob Astor, whose -fur trade with the interior had not been altogether satisfactory, -determined to explore the northwest coast, and proposed to the -Northwest Company to join him in establishing a trading-post on the -Columbia River. The proposition was declined. Nevertheless, in 1809, -Astor formed the Pacific Fur Company, and needing able and experienced -traders, he induced a number of men connected with the Northwest -Company to leave that establishment and join him. Among these were -Alexander M’Kay, who had been a companion of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in -earlier days. - -[Illustration: ASTORIA IN 1813. - -From Franchere’s _Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of -America_.] - -Astor’s plan was to establish posts on the north-west coast, to which -each year a vessel should carry goods for the Indian trade, and having -discharged her cargo at the mouth of the Columbia River, should take -on board the furs of the year’s trade, and thence proceed to China; -selling her furs there, she should load with the products of that -country and return to New York. - -The first vessel fitted out by the Pacific Fur Company was the -ill-fated “Tonquin,” commanded by Captain Jonathan Thorn. She sailed -from New York in 1810, with a number of partners, clerks, and artisans, -and with a large cargo of goods for the Indian trade; and about the -same time a party under W. P. Hunt and Donald Mackenzie left St. Louis -to cross the continent to the mouth of the Columbia. - -The “Beaver” was the next of these annual ships to sail. She rounded -the Horn, and touched at the Sandwich Islands, where a number of the -natives were shipped as laborers for the post, and on the 8th of May -the ship’s company found themselves opposite the mouth of the Columbia -River. They crossed the bar without accident and, after a voyage of six -months and twenty-two days, cast anchor in Baker’s Bay. - -The accounts which they received from their friends at Astoria were -very discouraging. There had been frequent quarrels between the -captain of the “Tonquin” and his passengers. The captain was a man of -great daring, but harsh and arbitrary in manner, and very ready to -quarrel with his British passengers. His obstinacy resulted in the -loss of several men at the mouth of the Columbia; and the chief mate -of the vessel, in consequence of a dispute with the captain, left -her, and obtained an assignment to command a little schooner built by -the company. The “Tonquin,” with M’Kay and Lewis, one of the clerks -on board, dropped down to the mouth of the Columbia and proceeded -northward, to go as far as Cooke’s River, on a trading excursion. - -In the meantime, the overland parties, under the command of Mackenzie, -M’Lellan, Hunt, and Crooks, after great suffering, reached the fort. - -The fate of the “Tonquin” was learned in the month of August, 1811, -from a party of Indians from Gray’s Harbor. They came to the Columbia -for fishing, and told the Chinooks that the “Tonquin” had been cut off -by one of the northern tribes, and every soul massacred. This is what -seems to have happened. The “Tonquin,” somewhere in the neighborhood -of Nootka, cast anchor, and M’Kay began to trade with the natives, who -were perfectly willing to part with their furs. One of the principal -men, however, having been detected in some small theft, was struck -by the captain, and in revenge the Indians formed a conspiracy to -take possession of the vessel. The interpreter learned of this, and -told M’Kay, who warned the captain of the intended attack; but he -only laughed at the information, and made no preparations for it. The -Indians continued to visit the ship, and without arms. The day before -the vessel was to leave, two large canoes, each containing about twenty -men, appeared alongside. They had some furs in their canoes and were -allowed to come on board. Soon three more canoes followed; and the -officers of the watch, seeing that a number of others were leaving the -shore, warned Captain Thorn of the circumstances. He immediately came -on the quarter-deck, accompanied by Mr. M’Kay and the interpreter. -The latter, on observing that they all wore short cloaks or mantles -of skin, which was by no means a general custom, at once knew their -designs were hostile and told Mr. M’Kay of his suspicions. That -gentleman immediately apprised Captain Thorn of the circumstances, -and begged him to lose no time in clearing the ship of intruders. -This caution was, however, treated with contempt by the captain, who -remarked, that with the arms they had on board they would be more than -a match for three times the number. The sailors in the meantime had -all come on the deck, which was crowded with Indians, who completely -blocked up the passages, and obstructed the men in the performance of -their various duties. The captain requested them to retire, to which -they paid no attention. He then told them he was about going to sea, -and had given orders to the men to raise the anchor; that he hoped they -would go away quietly; but if they refused, he should be compelled to -force their departure. He had scarcely finished when, at a signal given -by one of the chiefs, a loud and frightful yell was heard from the -assembled savages, who commenced a sudden and simultaneous attack on -the officers and crew with knives, bludgeons, and short sabres which -they had concealed under their robes. - -“M’Kay was one of the first attacked. One Indian gave him a severe blow -with a bludgeon, which partially stunned him; upon which he was seized -by five or six others, who threw him overboard into a canoe alongside, -where he quickly recovered and was allowed to remain for some time -uninjured. - -“Captain Thorn made an ineffectual attempt to reach the cabin for -his firearms, but was overpowered by numbers. His only weapon was a -jack-knife, with which he killed four of his savage assailants by -ripping up their bellies, and mutilated several others. Covered with -wounds, and exhausted from the loss of blood, he rested himself for a -moment by leaning on the tiller wheel, when he received a dreadful blow -from a weapon called a pautumaugan, on the back part of the head, which -felled him to the deck. The death-dealing knife fell from his hand, and -his savage butchers, after extinguishing the few sparks of life that -still remained, threw his mangled body overboard. - -“On seeing the captain’s fate, our informant, who was close to him, -and who had hitherto escaped uninjured, jumped into the water and -was taken into a canoe by some women, who partially covered his body -with mats. He states that the original intention of the enemy was to -detain Mr. M’Kay a prisoner, and after securing the vessel to give -him his liberty, on obtaining a ransom from Astoria. But on finding -the resistance made by the captain and crew, the former of whom had -killed one of their principal chiefs, their love of gain gave way to -revenge, and they resolved to destroy him. The last time the ill-fated -gentleman was seen, his head was hanging over the side of a canoe, and -three savages, armed with pautumaugans, were battering out his brains. - -“In the meantime the devoted crew, who had maintained the unequal -conflict with unparalleled bravery, became gradually overpowered. Three -of them, John Anderson, the boatswain; John Weekes, the carpenter; -[and] Stephen Weekes, who had narrowly escaped at the Columbia, -succeeded after a desperate struggle in gaining possession of the -cabin, the entrance to which was securely fastened inside. The Indians -now became more cautious, for they well knew there were plenty of -firearms below; and they had already experienced enough of the prowess -of the three men while on deck, and armed only with hand-spikes, to -dread approaching them while they had more mortal weapons at their -command. - -“Anderson and his two companions seeing their commander and the crew -dead and dying about them, and that no hope of escape remained, -and feeling, moreover, the uselessness of any further opposition, -determined on taking a terrible revenge. Two of them, therefore, set -about laying a train to the powder magazine, while the third addressed -some Indians from the windows, who were in canoes, and gave them to -understand that if they were permitted to depart unmolested in one -of the ship’s boats they would give them quiet possession of the -vessel without firing a shot; stipulating, however, that no canoe -should remain near them while getting into the boat. The anxiety -of the barbarians to obtain possession of the plunder, and their -disinclination to risk any more lives, induced them to embrace this -proposition with eagerness, and the pinnace was immediately brought -astern. The three heroes having by this time perfected their dreadful -arrangements, and ascertained that no Indian was watching them, -gradually lowered themselves from the cabin windows into the boat; and -having fired the train, quickly pushed off toward the mouth of the -harbor, no obstacle being interposed to prevent their departure. - -“Hundreds of the enemy now rushed on deck to seize the long-expected -prize, shouting yells of victory; but their triumph was of short -duration. Just as they had burst open the cabin door, an explosion took -place, which, in an instant, hurled upward of two hundred savages into -eternity, and dreadfully injured as many more. The interpreter, who had -by this time reached land, states he saw many mutilated bodies floating -near the beach, while heads, arms and legs, together with fragments of -the ship, were thrown to a considerable distance on the shore. - -“The first impression of the survivors was, that the Master of Life had -sent forth the Evil Spirit from the waters to punish them for their -cruelty to the white people. This belief, joined to the consternation -occasioned by the shock, and the reproaches and lamentations of the -wives and other relatives of the sufferers, paralyzed for a time the -exertions of the savages and favored the attempt of Anderson and his -brave comrades to escape. They rowed hard for the mouth of the harbor -with the intention, as is supposed, of coasting along the shore to the -Columbia; but after passing the bar, a head-wind and flowing tide drove -them back and compelled them to land late at night in a small cove, -where they fancied themselves free from danger, and where, weak from -the loss of blood and the harassing exertions of the day, they fell -into a profound sleep.” Here they were captured, and a little later -killed. - -Such is Cox’s account of the destruction of the “Tonquin,” obtained, -we may presume, from the interpreter. Other accounts of the same event -agree with it in its main facts, though there is some question as to -who it was who blew up the ship, some narrators believing that it was -Stephen Weekes, while others think that it was Lewis, the clerk. - -As if the spirits of the newly arrived traders had not been -sufficiently damped by the story of the “Tonquin,” an added misfortune -followed the next day. This was the return of one of the parties that -had started overland, some to trade, others to carry despatches to the -east. These men had been driven back by an encounter with Indians, and -after great difficulties and much suffering, reached the post again. - -On the 28th of June, 1812, a party of nearly a hundred men, well -supplied with trade goods, started in canoes up the Columbia. They -went well prepared to meet the Indians, each man carrying a musket -and forty rounds of ball cartridges, and each also wearing leathern -armor, “a kind of shirt made out of the skin of the elk, which -reached from the neck to the knees. It was perfectly arrow-proof, and -at eighty or ninety yards impenetrable by a musket bullet. Besides -the muskets, numbers had daggers, short swords, and pistols; and when -armed cap-à-pie we presented a formidable appearance.” Metal armor, of -course, was unknown to the Indians, but shields and body armor were -common to many tribes. This was of several kinds, sometimes made of -rows of overlapping plates of ivory or bone, of wood in the form of -slats or rods, held in place by hide, or of coats, helmets, and so -on, of hardened hide. Between 1840 and 1850 trappers on the prairie -sometimes hung about their necks, to protect the front of their bodies, -the hides of mule-deer dressed with the hair on. These skins, when wet, -would stop an arrow. After the coming of the white men, a few suits, or -portions of suits, of armor came into possession of one or more of the -plains tribes, were highly valued by them, used for a long time, and -gave origin to a personal name now common among the plains tribes--Iron -Shirt. - -At the portage every precaution was taken to guard against surprises. -Five officers were stationed at each end of the portage, and several -others, with twenty-five men, were scattered along it at short -distances from one another. This was especially necessary at the foot -of the first rapids, where the portage was three or four miles long, -the path narrow and dangerous, and in some places obstructed. - -The ascent of the river, over falls and rapids, was very laborious. The -boats had to be dragged up part of the way, and the labor was hard -and long-continued. A little negligence by some of the men who were at -the upper end of the portage resulted in a small trouble, for, while -they wandered a short distance from the goods, two Indians endeavored -to carry off an entire bale. It was too heavy for them, and they were -about to open and carry away the contents, when two men, carrying -burdens, arrived and gave the alarm. The Indians attacked the men, but -the disturbance called back the officers, and the Indians fled. “A -shot was fired at them by our best marksman, who was told merely to -wing one, which he did with great skill, by breaking his left arm, at -upward of a hundred yards distance. The fellow gave a dreadful shout on -receiving the ball, but still continued his flight with his comrade, -until we lost sight of them.” - -Keeping on up the rapids, they saw other Indians, some of whom were on -horseback, and much more attractive to the eye than the canoe Indians -seen farther down the river. From the fishing Indians they purchased -salmon in considerable numbers. - -Before this they had reached the high, volcanic, treeless country, and -had found rattlesnakes; and here an odd incident happened to one of -the men, named La Course, which might have been fatal. Cox says: “This -man had stretched himself on the ground, after the fatigue of the day, -with his head resting on a small package of goods, and quickly fell -asleep. While in this situation I passed him, and was almost petrified -at seeing a large rattlesnake moving from his side to his left breast. -My first impulse was to alarm La Course; but an old Canadian whom I had -beckoned to the spot requested me to make no noise, alleging it would -merely cross the body and go away. He was mistaken, for on reaching the -man’s shoulder, the serpent deliberately coiled itself, but did not -appear to meditate an attack. Having made signs to several others, who -joined us, I was determined that two men should advance a little in -front to divert the attention of the snake, while one should approach -La Course behind, and with a long stick endeavor to remove it from -his body. The snake, on observing the men advance in front, instantly -raised its head, darted out its forked tongue, and shook its rattles; -all indications of anger. Every one was now in a state of feverish -agitation as to the fate of poor La Course, who still lay slumbering, -unconscious of his danger; when the man behind, who had procured a -stick seven feet in length, suddenly placed one end of it under the -coiled reptile, and succeeded in pitching it upwards of ten feet from -the man’s body. A shout of joy was the first intimation La Course -received of his wonderful escape, while in the meantime the man with -the stick pursued the snake, which he killed. It was three feet six -inches long.” - -Toward the end of July the party camped at the mouth of the Walla Walla -River, and met a number of Indians of that tribe. Twenty horses were -purchased for Robert Stewart’s party, and its eleven members left the -next day for St. Louis. The Walla Wallas were kind and gentle, yet -dignified; as were also the Indians of the Pierced-Nose tribe, then -called by the French Les Nez Percés, a name which they still retain. -Their houses were large; some square, others oblong, and some conical; -they were covered with mats fixed on poles, and varied from twenty to -seventy feet in length. These people seemed well to do, and owned many -horses, twenty-five of which the traders bought; and from this time -on some of them proceeded by land, while the others dragged, paddled, -or poled the canoes up the stream. It was at a Pierced-Nose village, -at no very great distance from the Columbia, on Lewis River, that the -party left their boats and canoes, cacheing them in the willow brush, -and leaving them in charge of the chief. Here they secured about -fifty horses for pack animals, and a few for riding, but not nearly -enough to give a horse to each man. Travelling along up the stream, -the thirty-two men who were in Cox’s company started for the country -of the Spokanes. They had the usual incidents of travel--trouble with -pack-horses, lack of grass for their animals, often lack of water for -themselves; but before they had gone very far an adventure happened to -the author which made it impossible for him to chronicle the doings of -his party. - -On the 17th of August they stopped for noon, and turned their horses -out to graze in very good feed. Cox went apart some distance, and -after feasting on the fruit that grew here, lay down and went to -sleep. When he awoke, the sun was low and no sound was to be heard. -His companions had vanished. It afterward appeared that they had -started in three sections, at a little distance from one another, and -that each division of the command supposed Cox to be with one of the -other divisions. It was not until toward night that his absence was -discovered; and in the meantime he had awakened and set off in pursuit -of the party, but soon lost the trail. He was lightly clad in a shirt -and pair of cotton trousers and moccasins. He had no arms, no knife, -no means of making a fire. The first night out he plucked a quantity -of grass, covered himself with that, and slept through the night. On -the following day he journeyed eastward, and late in the evening saw, -only a mile from him, two horsemen rapidly riding to the east. They -were near enough so that he could see that they belonged to his party. -He raced after them, shouted, waved his shirt, and did everything -possible to attract their attention, but they did not see him. By this -time his moccasins had absolutely gone to pieces, and this night the -labor of pulling the grass cut his hands. It was two days since he had -eaten. Birds and deer were numerous, and close to him fish were seen -in the waters, but he could not catch them. That night, however, he -found an abundant supply of cherries, which gave him a hearty supper; -but the howling of wolves and “growling of bears” kept him awake much -of the night. The following day he looked for horse tracks, and at -night returned to the place where he had slept before. His feet were -now so much lacerated by prickly-pears and the stones over which he -had walked, that he was obliged to make bandages for them from the -legs of his trousers. His fear of wolves and bears grew; and perhaps -the man’s weak condition tempted the animals, for he tells us that -they came quite close to him. As he wandered on, he occasionally saw -horse tracks, but always old, yet showing that there were people in -the country. On the night of the 25th, he found no water, and as he -was about to lie down to sleep, he found that he was surrounded by -snakes of every kind. “This was a peculiarly, soul-trying moment,” he -tells us. “I had tasted no fruit since the morning before, and after -a painful day’s march under a burning sun, could not procure a drop -of water to allay my feverish thirst. I was surrounded by a murderous -brood of serpents, and ferocious beasts of prey; and without even -the consolation of knowing when such misery might have a probable -termination. I might truly say with the royal psalmist that ‘the snares -of death compassed me round about.’” But he lived through it. All the -next day he travelled without water, and when at night he came to a -stream, he was so weak that he fell into it, and was almost carried -away, but caught himself by an overhanging bough and regained the -shore. Here he found food and ate it eagerly. “On looking about for a -place to sleep, I observed lying on the ground the hollow trunk of a -large pine, which had been destroyed by lightning. I retreated into -the cavity; and having covered myself completely with large pieces of -loose bark, quickly fell asleep. My repose was not of long duration; -for at the end of about two hours I was awakened by the growling of -a bear, which had removed part of the bark covering and was leaning -over me with his snout, hesitating as to the means he should adopt to -dislodge me; the narrow limits of the trunk which confined my body -prevented him from making the attack with advantage. I instantly sprang -up, seized my stick, and uttered a loud cry, which startled him, and -caused him to recede a few steps; when he stopped and turned about -apparently doubtful whether he would commence an attack. He determined -on an assault; but feeling that I had not sufficient strength to meet -such an unequal enemy, I thought it prudent to retreat, and accordingly -scrambled up an adjoining tree. My flight gave fresh impulse to his -courage, and he commenced ascending after me. I succeeded, however, -in gaining a branch, which gave me a decided advantage over him; and -from which I was enabled to annoy his muzzle and claws in such a manner -with my stick as effectually to check his progress. After scraping -the bark some time with rage and disappointment, he gave up the task, -and retired to my late dormitory, of which he took possession. The -fear of falling off, in case I was overcome by sleep, induced me to -make several attempts to descend; but each attempt aroused my ursine -sentinel; and, after many ineffectual efforts, I was obliged to remain -there during the rest of the night. I fixed myself in that part of -the trunk from which the principal grand branches forked, and which -prevented me from falling during my fitful slumbers. A little after -sunrise, the bear quitted the trunk, shook himself, ‘cast a longing, -lingering look’ toward me, and slowly disappeared in search of his -morning repast. After waiting some time, apprehensive of his return, I -descended and resumed my journey through the woods.” - -A few hours later Cox came upon a well-beaten horse-trail, with fresh -tracks both of hoofs and human feet. Following this he came that -evening to a spot where the party had camped the preceding night; and -about a large fire which was still burning found the half-picked bones -of grouse and ducks, on which he made a hearty meal, the first flesh -he had tasted in a long time. For two days more he followed the trail, -on the second day finding fruit. The tracks grew constantly fresher, -but the bandages of his feet were constantly wearing out, and, with -the exception of his shirt, he was almost naked. At evening he came to -a fork in the trail, with fresh tracks on both branches. One led up a -hill, the other into a valley. Cox took the upper one, but as it was -growing dark, feared that he might not find water at night, and turned -back and followed the trail into the valley. Before he had gone far he -thought he heard the neighing of a horse, and hurrying onward, before -long he saw several horses feeding in a meadow on the other side of -a stream. He crossed, and one of the horses approached him, and to -the weak and starving man the good beast looked like a real friend. A -little farther on he saw smoke, and then two women appeared, who at -sight of him fled to a shelter at the farther end of the meadow. From -this at once emerged two men, who came running toward him in the most -friendly manner. They carried him in their arms to their home; washed -and dressed his wounds, roasted some roots and boiled salmon for him. -In fact, they treated him as if he had been a relation rather than a -stranger. The men talked with him in signs, and gave him to understand -that they knew who he was, and that he had been lost and that they -with other Indians and white men had been searching for him. To a man -who had been wandering in the desert for fourteen days, the sight of -these Indians, and the harsh, guttural sounds by which they expressed -their thoughts, were perfectly delightful. Full, warm, and clad, for -the first time in two weeks, he slept that night as he had never slept -before. - -The next day the men took him in a canoe across the Cœur d’Alene River, -and having given him deer-skin clothing, they set off on horseback to -the eastward. - -After seven hours they came to where some of the Canadians were at work -getting wood. François Gardepie joined them just before they reached -the tents, and taking Cox for an Indian, spoke to him. It was not -until he replied in French that he recognized him, and there was much -rejoicing in all the camp when he joined his people. The party had -supposed that he had long perished; for considering his youth and his -inexperience in the Indian country, the oldest voyageurs had given him -up after the sixth day. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -ROSS COX - -II - - -It was October 17, the anniversary of the sailing from New York of the -“Beaver,” that Cox and Farnham set out on their trading expedition -to the Flatheads, and on the 10th of November they reached the small -village of these people. They were charmed with their frank and -hospitable reception, and with the superiority in cleanliness of these -Indians over other tribes that they had seen. They determined to remain -here for a while, and began the building of a log house in which to -winter. Meantime the Indians kept coming in, and they made quite a -trade in beaver. In December, Cox, having had a good canoe built of -cedar planks, took leave of Farnham, and with six men set out to -descend the river to Spokane, which was reached about New Year’s day. - -During a trip to the Flatheads, Cox witnessed an extraordinary display -of fortitude by a Blackfoot prisoner whom they were torturing. It is a -graphic picture of the savage cruelty of the savage man, and is far too -horrible to print. An effort was made by the traders to put an end to -these tortures, and the Flatheads were induced to set free, and send -away to their people, a number of Blackfeet women. To these prisoners, -now being set free, it was explained that torture between the tribes -ought to cease, and as they were turned loose unharmed, it was hoped -that they would persuade their people on the prairies to abstain in -future from torturing Flathead captives. Cox is enthusiastic about the -attractiveness of the Flatheads. It was here that he was successfully -treated for rheumatism by an old Indian doctor; the cure being a -morning bath in the river, now frozen over, through a hole in the ice, -followed by rubbing of the affected parts by the old doctor. After -twenty-five days of the treatment the trouble had entirely disappeared. - -In August, 1814, a party of sixty men, including proprietors and -clerks, left Fort George to go up the river with trade goods. On -the way they met some Indians, who attempted to steal various small -articles, and were warned to stop it, but paid no attention to the -orders. Three caught in the act of pilfering were flogged. At night -the party was attacked by Indians, and a Canadian was killed. There -were many narrow escapes. Passing up the river they met with the -Walla Wallas, who received them in their usual friendly way. A little -later the party separated, the division to which Cox was assigned -going to Spokane House, where the Indians, who had expended all their -ammunition, received them with great joy. An amusing sketch is given of -the personality and character of the Scotchman, McDonald, celebrated -for his great size, his flaming red hair, and his daring bravery. A -small tribe of Indians were camped between an immense fall in the -Columbia, known as La Chaudière, and Spokane House; their chief was -a philosopher, frugal, thrifty, opposed to gambling, and so in many -respects different from the average Indian. - -In October the various parties returned to Fort George with the -proceeds of their trade, and on the 18th of November again set out -for the interior. Not far above the mouth of the Walla Walla they -met a number of Indians coming down. They stopped the first canoes -to ask for tobacco, and as they passed the last ones, endeavored to -take from them some bales of goods. The arms of the canoemen were not -within reach, but each of the proprietors or clerks carried his arms. -Every effort was made to avoid open hostilities. The canoemen tried to -beat the Indians off with their paddles, and the Indians had not yet -attempted to use their arms. When a tall Indian refused to let go the -bale of goods that he was trying to take from McDonald’s canoe, M’Kay -struck him with the butt end of his gun, and obliged him to drop the -bale. The Indian instantly placed an arrow on his bow, which he aimed -at McDonald, who quickly stretched forth his arm, seized the arrow, -broke it to pieces, and threw them into the Indian’s face. The Indian, -by this time very angry, had ordered his canoe to push off, and was -just about to shoot an arrow at McDonald when M’Kay fired and killed -him. His two companions were about to use their bows, but McDonald, -who had a double-barrelled gun, shot them both, killing one and -severely wounding the other. The fight was on, but the Indians threw -themselves in the bottom of their canoes out of sight, and the vessels -soon drifted down the river, and out of gunshot. The traders at once -went ashore and armed themselves. The Indians lurked about and shot at -them, but without effect. Embarking, the white men paddled to a narrow -island in the river, built breastworks, and prepared for defence. The -next day the wind blew hard, and they were obliged to pass the night -on the island. Meantime the Indians were signaling, and canoes could -be heard crossing and recrossing the river. The spirits of the white -men were low, and they believed that they were likely all to be killed. -The next day the traders sent out a flag of truce to the enemy, and -asked for a talk, being determined to pay the relatives of the dead -for the loss, rather than to have any fighting. The Indians refused -this, however, and declared that two white men must be delivered to -them to be treated as they thought best. One of these white men, it was -explained, must be McDonald. The offers made by the traders had been -sufficiently liberal, but the sentiment of the savages seemed to be -that these offers must be refused, and that white men must be killed -to accompany the dead Indians on their way to the home of the dead. -After a heated discussion, it became evident that there was little -hope of a compromise or of peace. One by one the Indians sulkily drew -away from the council and joined their friends who were sitting at a -distance behind them. Just before the conference was over, however, it -was interrupted by the arrival of a dozen mounted Indians, who dashed -into the space between the two parties, and halted there. These men -were under the leadership of a young chief whose courage and wisdom -was respected by all the Indians of the country. He made a strong plea -for a peaceful settlement of the difficulty, finally declaring that no -one of the Indians should dare to attack the whites. This speech put -a different look on matters, and the Indians presently consented to -the proposed compromise, and smoked with the traders. The wounded and -the relatives of the dead proved quite willing to accept the payments -offered, and friendly relations were renewed. - -In May, 1816, the author found himself once more at Okinagan, and -this time occupying the chief position there. He at once set to work -to rebuild the post, where he spent the summer. The point between the -Okinagan River and the Columbia, where the trading post was built, -was absolutely free from rattlesnakes, although the surrounding -country abounded with them. The snakes were frequently eaten by the -Canadians, who skinned them as eels are skinned, and then spitted -them on a stick run through the body, and roasted them before a fire. -Cox tells a curious story of the treatment by an old Indian of a -young woman supposed to have consumption. The treatment consisted in -killing a dog and placing the foot and leg of the patient within the -newly killed carcass until the flesh became cold. They were then taken -out and bandaged with warm flannel. Besides this, she took daily a -small quantity of bark in a glass of port-wine. The result was that -her condition greatly improved; she regained her appetite, and in -the autumn was strong enough to travel across the mountains with her -husband. The following summer Cox met her at Rainy Lake in the full -enjoyment of health. Cox also tells of a white man, absolutely dying -of a decline, who was cured by being placed at short intervals in -the body of a newly killed horse. After two treatments of this kind, -at intervals of a few days, he began to regain his strength, and by -adhering to simple and careful living, was finally restored to his -ordinary health. - -Wolves were very abundant here, and were very troublesome to the -horses. “These destructive animals annually destroy numbers of -horses,” Cox writes, “particularly during the winter season, when -the latter get entangled in the snow, in which situation they become -an easy prey to their light-footed pursuers, ten or fifteen of which -will often fasten on one animal, and with their long fangs in a few -minutes separate the head from the body. If, however, the horses are -not prevented from using their legs, they sometimes punish the enemy -severely; as an instance of this, I saw one morning the bodies of two -of our horses which had been killed the night before, and around were -lying eight dead and maimed wolves; some with their brains scattered -about, and others with their limbs and ribs broken by the hoofs of the -furious animals in their vain attempts to escape from their sanguinary -assailants. - -“While I was at Spokane I went occasionally to the horse prairie, which -is nearly surrounded by partially wooded hills, for the purpose of -watching the manœuvres of the wolves in their combined attacks. The -first announcement of their approach was a few shrill currish barks -at intervals, like the outpost firing of skirmishing parties. These -were answered by similar barking from an opposite direction, until the -sounds gradually approximated, and at length ceased on the junction of -the different parties. We prepared our guns, and concealed ourselves -behind a thick cover. In the meantime, the horses, sensible of the -approaching danger, began to paw the ground, snort, toss up their -heads, look wildly about them, and exhibit all the symptoms of fear. -One or two stallions took the lead, and appeared to await with a degree -of comparative composure for the appearance of the enemy. - -“The allies at length entered the field in a semi-circular form, with -their flanks extended for the evident purpose of surrounding their -prey. They were between two and three hundred strong. The horses, on -observing their movement, knew from experience its object, and dreading -to encounter so numerous a force, instantly turned around and galloped -off in a contrary direction. Their flight was the signal for the wolves -to advance; and immediately uttering a simultaneous yell, they charged -after the fugitives, still preserving their crescent form. Two or three -of the horses, which were not in the best condition, were quickly -overtaken by the advanced guard of the enemy. The former, finding -themselves unable to keep up with the band, commenced kicking at their -pursuers, several of which received some severe blows; but these -being reinforced by others, they would have shortly despatched the -horses, had we not just in time emerged from our place of concealment -and discharged a volley at the enemy’s center, by which a few were -brought down. The whole battalion instantly wheeled about and fled -toward the hills in the utmost disorder; while the horses, on hearing -the fire, changed their course, and galloped up to us. Our appearance -saved several of them from the fangs of their foes; and by their -neighing they seemed to express their joy and gratitude at our timely -interference.” - -In portions of the country inhabited by the Walla Wallas, Nez Percés, -and Shoshones, wild horses were at this time very abundant. Sometimes -from seven hundred to a thousand were seen in a band, and persons who -had crossed the continent by the Missouri route told Cox that in the -Snake Indian country bands varying from three to four thousand were -frequently seen. The Spaniards at San Francisco informed the traders of -the Northwest Company that in the year 1812 they were obliged to kill -upward of thirty thousand horses in California in order to preserve -sufficient grass for the buffalo. Just what is meant by California in -this connection is uncertain, since it is not known that the buffalo -were ever found in the California of modern times. - -In his description of the horses of the country, Cox tells of a ride of -seventy-two miles which he made between twelve o’clock in the morning -and soon after dark, to outstrip some rival traders who were on their -way to the Flatheads. The Flatheads were out of tobacco, but Farnham, -who was in charge of the party, felt sure that if a supply of this -commodity were brought them at once, they would promise their skins to -him. Cox, riding a splendid horse, known as Le Bleu, reached Farnham -two hours in advance of his rivals, and secured the trade. - -In the summer of 1816 Cox determined to abandon Indian trading, and -applied to the proprietors for leave, which was granted with regret. -Nevertheless, he wintered at Okinagan. - -In April, 1817, Cox joined a party of eighty-six men who embarked in -two barges and nine canoes from Fort George to ascend the Columbia. -They continued up the river with various adventures, seeing Indians -constantly, but having no trouble with them, and on the seventeenth -day twenty-three of the party who were to cross the Rocky Mountains -to the plains left the loaded canoes and continued up the Columbia, -past Okinagan, the mouth of the Spokane River, to Great Kettle Falls. -Continuing, they passed through the lakes on the Columbia. The river -grew narrower and narrower, and the current swifter, and at length -they reached the Rocky Mountain portage, where they were to leave -their canoes. The hard work done on the trip had so far exhausted -many of the men, that they were now practically unable to work; and -seven men, six Canadians and an Englishman, were sent back in the -best canoe to Spokane House. Only one of them reached there alive, -having been found by two Indians on the borders of the upper lake, and -by them transported to Spokane House. Now came an overland journey -on foot, where the nine remaining men were obliged to carry loads of -about ninety pounds each. The journey was very difficult, over steep -mountains, across rapid streams, and through deep snow fields. On -the 31st of May they reached two small lakes on the summit of the -mountains, at which they encamped. From these lakes a stream joins a -branch of the Columbia River, while another, called Rocky Mountain -River, empties into Peace River, and so takes its way to the Arctic -Ocean. - -The next day they reached a beautiful meadow ground, where five of the -company’s horses were found grazing, and their pack saddles were placed -conspicuously near a large fire which was still burning. The animals -had been sent up from Rocky Mountain House to meet them. - -The next day, in crossing the Rocky Mountain River, a series of -accidents happened, by which the first raft made was lost, and the -second got away, carrying several men with it, the result being that -the party was now separated. From this time on until they reached Rocky -Mountain House, they did not get together, and there was some suffering -from hunger and cold. Nor was their situation much better at Rocky -Mountain House, for they were unable there to obtain provisions, the -people here being themselves on short allowance. On the 7th of June -they left Rocky Mountain House, and soon entered the Athabasca River, -and followed it down until they reached Elk River, which they ascended, -and at last met Alexander Stewart and the Slave Lake brigade. From here -they proceeded eastward, down the Beaver River to Isle à la Crosse, -reached the English River, Cumberland House, and the Saskatchewan, and -thence went through Lake Winepic to Fort Alexander and by way of Rat -Portage to Rainy Lake and Fort William. - -From here eastward their way led through the more or less settled -country occupied largely by Canadian farmers. The party continued -eastward, until on September 19, five months and three days after -leaving the Pacific Ocean, Cox reached Montreal, and his journeyings -were at an end. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES - -I - - -At the end of the sixteenth and during the seventeenth century a line -of Spanish settlements ran from Mexico northward along the Rocky -Mountains, terminating in the important town of Taos. To the north, -north-east, and north-west of this town were other settlements, -occupied by the Spaniards and their descendants, and the streams and -geographical features of the country bore Spanish names--almost up to -the headwaters of the Rio Grande del Norte. North of the Arkansas there -was a change of tongue, and the names were English, or French, given -much later by American trappers who had pushed westward, or by French -Canadians and Creoles, who were early voyageurs over the plains. - -Though Taos was an important place, it did not equal, either in size or -wealth, the town of Santa Fé. - -The first settlements of what is now New Mexico were made about the -end of the sixteenth century, and a colony was established on the Rio -del Norte, in New Mexico. Agriculture was practised, and mines were -discovered and worked. The Spaniards, in their greed for precious -metals, made slaves of the docile Indians, and forced them to labor in -the mines, under circumstances of the greatest severity and hardship. -Almost a hundred years later, in August, 1680, this ill treatment -caused the insurrection of the Pueblos, which put an end to many a -flourishing Spanish settlement, and, temporarily, to the country’s -development. For a time the Spaniards were driven out, but it was for -a time only; a little later they returned, resubdued the country, and -by the close of the century were stronger than ever. Nevertheless, -the Pueblo revolt was not without its good effect, and during the -eighteenth century the Indians were far better treated than they had -been before. - -In the year 1806, Captain Zebulon M. Pike crossed the plains and -reached the city of Santa Fé. His return told the inhabitants of the -farther west of a country beyond the plains where there were towns and -people who would purchase goods brought to them. Previous to this, a -merchant of Kaskaskia, named Morrison, had sent a French Creole named -La Lande up the Platte River, directing him to go to Santa Fé to -trade; but La Lande, though he reached that city, never returned, nor -accounted to his employer for the goods that were intrusted to him. -James Pursley, an American, was perhaps the second man to cross these -plains, and reach the Spanish settlements. When Captain Pike returned, -the news of these settlements, hitherto unknown, created a great -interest throughout the slowly advancing frontier. - -Expeditions went out to Santa Fé in 1812, but the traders were -suspected by the New Mexicans of being spies, their goods were -confiscated, and they themselves imprisoned and detained for years, -some of them returning to the United States in 1821. After this, other -parties went out, and the trading which they did with the Spaniards was -successful and profitable. More and more expeditions set forth, often -manned by people who were entirely ignorant of the country through -which they were to pass, and of the hardships which they were to face. -Some of these died from starvation or thirst, or, at the very least, -suffered terribly, and often were unsuccessful, but about 1822 the -trade with Santa Fé became established. The distance from the American -settlements across the plains to Santa Fé was hardly half that from -Vera Cruz to Santa Fé, and there was great profit in the trade; but it -was not without its dangers. Indians were constantly met with, and many -of the traders did not understand how to treat them. Some traders were -robbed; others, resisting harshly and sometimes killing a savage, were -attacked, robbed of their animals, and occasionally lost a man. - -Among the interesting records of the plains of these early times is -Josiah Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies, or the Journal of a Santa Fé -Trader, During Eight Expeditions Across the Great Western Prairies_. - -Gregg, an invalid, made his first trip across the plains on the advice -of his physician. The effect of his journey was to re-establish his -health and to beget in him a passion for prairie life. He soon became -interested, as a proprietor, in the Santa Fé trade, and for eight -successive years continued to follow this business. The period covered -by his volumes is from 1831 to 1840, during which time the trade was at -its height. - -The caravan with which Gregg started, set out with near a hundred -wagons, of which one-half were hauled by oxen and the remainder by -mules. The very night that they left Council Grove their cattle -stampeded, but being corralled within the circle of wagons, did not -escape. - -Having a large company, it was natural that there should be among it -a number of people who were constantly seeing dangers that did not -exist. They had been out but a short time when, “Alarms now began to -accumulate more rapidly upon us. A couple of persons had a few days -before been chased to the wagons by a band of--buffalo; and this -evening the encampment was barely formed when two hunters came bolting -in with information that a hundred, perhaps of the same ‘enemy’ were -at hand--at least this was the current opinion afterward. The hubbub -occasioned by this fearful news had scarcely subsided, when another -arrived on a panting horse, crying out ‘Indians! Indians! I’ve just -escaped from a couple, who pursued me to the very camp!’ ‘To arms! to -arms!’ resounded from every quarter--and just then a wolf, attracted by -the fumes of broiling buffalo bones, sent up a most hideous howl across -the creek. ‘Some one in distress!’ was instantly shouted: ‘To his -relief!’ vociferated the crowd; and off they bolted, one and all, arms -in hand, hurly-burly, leaving the camp entirely unprotected, so that -had an enemy been at hand indeed, and approached us from the opposite -direction, they might easily have taken possession of the wagons. -Before they had returned, however, a couple of hunters came in and -laughed very heartily at the expense of the first alarmist, whom they -had just chased into the camp.” - -[Illustration: CARAVAN ON THE MARCH. - -From Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies_.] - -While baseless Indian scares were common, they sometimes had genuine -frights, as in the case of a large body of Indians met on the Cimarron -River. On this occasion, “It was a genuine alarm--a tangible reality. -These warriors, however, as we soon discovered, were only the vanguard -of a ‘countless host,’ who were by this time pouring over the opposite -ridge, and galloping directly toward us. - -“The wagons were soon irregularly ‘formed’ upon the hillside: but in -accordance with the habitual carelessness of caravan traders, a great -portion of the men were unprepared for the emergency. Scores of guns -were ‘empty,’ and as many more had been wetted by the recent showers, -and would not ‘go off.’ Here was one calling for balls; another for -powder; a third for flints. Exclamations, such as, ‘I’ve broken my -ramrod!’--‘I’ve spilt my caps!’--‘I’ve rammed down a ball without -powder!’--‘My gun is choked; give me yours!’--were heard from different -quarters; while a timorous ‘greenhorn’ would perhaps cry out: ‘Here, -take my gun, you can outshoot me!’ The more daring bolted off to -encounter the enemy at once, while the timid and cautious took a stand -with presented rifle behind the wagons. The Indians, who were in -advance, made a bold attempt to press upon us, which came near costing -them dearly, for some of our fiery backwoodsmen more than once had -their rusty, but unerring, rifles directed upon the intruders, some of -whom would inevitably have fallen before their deadly aim, had not some -of the more prudent traders interposed. The Indians made demonstrations -no less hostile, rushing, with ready sprung bows, upon a portion of our -men who had gone in search of water, and mischief would, perhaps, have -ensued, had not the impetuosity of the warriors been checked by the -wise men of the nation. - -“The Indians were collecting around us, however, in such great -numbers, that it was deemed expedient to force them away, so as to -resume our march, or at least to take a more advantageous position. -Our company was therefore mustered and drawn up in ‘line of battle’; -and, accompanied by the sound of a drum and fife, we marched toward -the main group of the Indians. The latter seemed far more delighted -than frightened with this strange parade and music, a spectacle they -had, no doubt, never witnessed before, and perhaps looked upon the -whole movement rather as a complimentary salute than a hostile array, -for there was no interpreter through whom any communication could -be conveyed to them. But, whatever may have been their impressions, -one thing is certain--that the principal chief (who was dressed in a -long red coat of strouding, or coarse cloth) appeared to have full -confidence in the virtues of his calumet, which he lighted, and came -boldly forward to meet our war-like corps, serenely smoking the ‘pipe -of peace.’ Our captain, now taking a whiff with the savage chief, -directed him by signs to cause his warriors to retire. This most of -them did, to rejoin the long train of squaws and papooses with the -baggage, who followed in the rear, and were just then seen emerging -from beyond the hills.” - -It was estimated that there were not less than two or three thousand of -these Indians, who were supposed to be Blackfeet and Gros Ventres. They -remained for some days in the neighborhood of the train, and kept the -traders on tenterhooks of anxiety, lest there should be an attack, or -a wholesale driving off of cattle. Later there were talks--or at least -friendly meeting--and giving of presents; and finally, the Indians -moved away without doing any harm. It was but a day or two later, -however, when some Comanches had a skirmish with the train, but without -evil results to either party. - -It was not long after this that the train, still journeying westward, -saw evidence of their approach to the Spanish settlements. On the -5th of July, as they were proceeding after the celebration of the -day before, they met a Mexican _cibolero_, or buffalo hunter, one of -those hardy wanderers of the plains, who used to venture out from the -Spanish settlements to secure dried buffalo meat, killing buffalo and -trading with the Indians. These wanderers made long journeys, which -often extended as far as the country claimed and occupied by Crows, -Cheyennes, and Pawnees. Perfectly accustomed to the life of the -plains, armed with gun and lance, and bow and arrows, they were not -less free than the aboriginal inhabitants, whose methods in many ways -they imitated, and whose blood many of them shared. Like the Indians, -these buffalo hunters killed their game chiefly with the arrow and the -lance, and drying its flesh, packed it on their mules, or in their -ox-carts, and carried it back to the settlements to trade. - -It was not very long after, that Gregg, leaving the train and pushing -ahead with others, found himself in the city of Santa Fé. He was much -impressed by the new country, inhabited by a race as different as -possible from those whom he had left in his Eastern home. He was a -close observer and records interestingly much of what he saw. - -The wild tribes are described--the Navajoes, Apaches, Yutas, and -Caiguas, or Kiawas. Much is said of the raids of the Apaches and the -terror in which they kept the inhabitants of the towns, as well as the -Mexican troops stationed there to protect these inhabitants. The savage -butchery of a lot of Apaches by a troop of men, under an American -leader, may perhaps be the incident which has given rise to many -similar tales concerning the similar slaughters of the olden times. -It seems there was a celebrated Apache chief, called Juan José, whose -cunning and audacity had caused him to be feared throughout the whole -country. The government of Sonora had announced that all booty taken -from the savages under his command should be the property of those who -took it. “Accordingly, in the spring of 1837 a party of some twenty -men, composed chiefly of foreigners, spurred on by the love of gain, -and never doubting but the Indians, after so many years of successful -robberies, must be possessed of a vast amount of property, set out with -an American as their commander, who had long resided in the country. -In a few days they reached a rancheria of about fifty warriors with -their families, among whom was the famous Juan José himself, and three -other principal chiefs. On seeing the Americans advance, the former -at once gave them to understand that, if they had come to fight, -they were ready to accommodate them; but, on being assured by the -leader that they were merely bent on a trading expedition, a friendly -interview was immediately established between the parties. The American -captain having determined to put these obnoxious chiefs to death under -any circumstances, soon caused a little field-piece, which had been -concealed from the Indians, to be loaded with chain and canister shot, -and to be held in readiness for use. The warriors were then invited -to the camp to receive a present of flour, which was placed within -range of the cannon. While they were occupied in dividing the contents -of the bag, they were fired upon, and a considerable number of their -party killed on the spot! The remainder were then attacked with small -arms, and about twenty slain, including Juan José and the other chiefs. -Those who escaped became afterward their own avengers in a manner which -proved terribly disastrous to another party of Americans, who happened -at the time to be trapping on Rio Gila, not far distant. The enraged -savages resolved to take summary vengeance upon these unfortunate -trappers, and falling upon them, massacred them every one.” - -It is added that: “The Apaches, previous to this date, had committed -but few depredations upon foreigners (_i. e._ Americans), restrained -either by fear or respect. Small parties of the latter were permitted -to pass the highways of the wilderness unmolested, while large caravans -of Mexicans suffered frequent attacks.” - -It is generally known that the Indians of the plains regarded the -Mexicans as a different people from the dwellers of the United States, -and there was even a time when a distinction was made between the -inhabitants of the United States and those of the Republic of Texas. - -The bounty on scalps, adopted by the Mexican government in 1837, was -one of the many schemes devised by the people of the borderland to -check the ravages of the Indians. By this _Proyecto de Guerra_ a series -of bounties were paid for scalps, running from one hundred dollars -for the scalp of a full-grown man, down to fifty for that of a woman, -and twenty-five for that of a little child. For a brief time this -bounty was paid, and Gregg himself saw a scalp brought in on a pole -by a Mexican officer in command of troops, precisely as the Indians, -returning from the war-path, used to bring their scalps into their home -village. - -[Illustration: WAGONS PARKED FOR THE NIGHT. - -From Gregg’s _Commerce of the Prairies_.] - -In 1838, Gregg returned across the plains, meeting a few adventures, -among which the most important was an attack on the train by Indians, -who were supposed to be Pawnees. The effort was merely to steal their -horses, which, happily, they saved. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES - -II - - -In 1839, after having been only a few months in the “States,” Gregg -was unable to resist his longing for the free life of the prairies and -began to make preparations for another trip to the Mexican settlements. -At that time the ports of Mexico were blockaded by French men-of-war, -and the demand for goods was great, with a prospect of correspondingly -high prices. Late in April the wagon train, loaded with twenty-five -thousand dollars’ worth of goods, crossed the Arkansas, not far from -the mouth of the Canadian fork. They had not proceeded far before -they lost a teamster; “a Cherokee shopkeeper came up to us with an -attachment for debt against a free mulatto, whom we had engaged as -teamster. The poor fellow had no alternative but to return with the -importunate creditor, who committed him at once to the care of ‘Judge -Lynch’ for trial. We ascertained afterward that he had been sentenced -to ‘take the benefit of the bankrupt law’ after the manner of the -Cherokees of that neighborhood. This is done by stripping and tying -the victim to a tree; when each creditor, with a good cowhide or -hickory switch in his hand, scores the amount of the bill due upon his -bare back. One stripe for every dollar due is the usual process of -‘whitewashing’; and as the application of the lash is accompanied by -all sorts of quaint remarks, the exhibition affords no small merriment -to those present, with the exception, no doubt, of the delinquent -himself. After the ordeal is over, the creditors declare themselves -perfectly satisfied: nor could they, as is said, ever be persuaded -thereafter to receive one red cent of the amount due, even if it were -offered to them. As the poor mulatto was also in our debt, and was -perhaps apprehensive that we might exact payment in the same currency, -he never showed himself again.” - -The leaders of the party just setting out were well armed with Colt’s -repeating rifles and revolvers, and carried, besides, two small -cannon. Among the men were a number of young fellows from the East, -most of them quite without prairie experience. They had not been many -days out when one of the party, out hunting, became lost, and not -returning at night, muskets were fired to guide him to camp; but he -imagined that the firing was done by hostile Indians, and fled from -the sound. Finally, according to his statement, he was attacked during -the night by a panther, which he succeeded in beating off with the -butt of his gun. It was imagined, however, from the peculiar odor with -which the shattered gun was still redolent when he reached camp, that -the “painter” that he had driven off was not many degrees removed in -affinity from a skunk. - -When the train reached the north fork of the Canadian, they met with -a considerable camp of Comanches, with whom they had some friendly -intercourse. With them was a body of United States Dragoons, under -Lieutenant Bowman, to whom had been intrusted the task of trying to -make peace with the Comanches, and so protecting the settlements of the -border. Among these Comanches were a number of Mexican captives--women, -boys, and small children--of whom Gregg notes that a number of them -were still well able to speak Spanish. In other words, their captivity -had been so short that they had a clear memory of the events of earlier -life. An effort was made to purchase several of these captives, in -order to return them to their homes. Most of them, however, were -unwilling to go, and for a variety of reasons; one of the lads, only -ten or twelve years old, explaining that by his life among the Indians -he had become “now too much of a brute to live among Christians.” One -lad Gregg did purchase, and was repaid by much gratitude. - -It was near the Canadian River, which they had now reached, that a -small party of Americans experienced terrible suffering in the winter -of 1832 and ’33. “The party,” Gregg says, “consisted of twelve men, -chiefly citizens of Missouri. Their baggage and about ten thousand -dollars in specie were packed upon mules. They took the route of -the Canadian River, fearing to venture on the northern prairies at -that season of the year. Having left Santa Fé in December, they had -proceeded without accident thus far, when a large body of Comanches -and Kiawas were seen advancing toward them. Being well acquainted -with the treacherous and pusillanimous disposition of those races, -the traders prepared at once for defence; but the savages having made -a halt at some distance, began to approach one by one, or in small -parties, making a great show of friendship all the while, until most of -them had collected on the spot. Finding themselves surrounded in every -direction, the travellers now began to move on, in hopes of getting rid -of the intruders; but the latter were equally ready for the start, and, -mounting their horses, kept jogging on in the same direction. The first -act of hostility perpetrated by the Indians proved fatal to one of the -American traders named Pratt, who was shot dead while attempting to -secure two mules which had become separated from the rest. Upon this, -the companions of the slain man immediately dismounted and commenced a -fire upon the Indians, which was warmly returned, whereby another man -of the name of Mitchell was killed. - -“By this time the traders had taken off their packs and piled them -around for protection; and now falling to work with their hands, they -very soon scratched out a trench deep enough to protect them from the -shot of the enemy. The latter made several desperate charges, but they -seemed too careful of their own personal safety, notwithstanding the -enormous superiority of their numbers, to venture too near the rifles -of the Americans. In a few hours all the animals of the traders were -either killed or wounded, but no personal damage was done to the -remaining ten men, with the exception of a wound in the thigh received -by one, which was not at the time considered dangerous. - -“During the siege, the Americans were in great danger of perishing from -thirst, as the Indians had complete command of all the water within -reach. Starvation was not so much to be dreaded, because, in cases of -necessity, they could live on the flesh of their slain animals, some -of which lay stretched close around them. After being pent up for -thirty-six hours in this horrible hole, during which time they had -seldom ventured to raise their heads above the surface without being -shot at, they resolved to make a bold sortie in the night, as any death -was preferable to the death that awaited them there. As there was not -an animal left that was at all in a condition to travel, the owners of -the money gave permission to all to take and appropriate to themselves -whatever amount each man could safely undertake to carry. In this way -they started with a few hundred dollars, of which but little ever -reached the United States. The remainder was buried deep in the sand, -in hope that it might escape the cupidity of the savages, but to very -little purpose, for they were afterward seen by some Mexican traders -making a great display of specie, which was without doubt taken from -this unfortunate cache. - -“With every prospect of being discovered, overtaken and butchered, -but resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible, they at last -emerged from their hiding-place, and moved on silently and slowly -until they found themselves beyond the purlieus of the Indian camps. -Often did they look back in the direction where three to five hundred -savages were supposed to watch their movements, but, much to their -astonishment, no one appeared to be in pursuit. The Indians, believing, -no doubt, that the property of the traders would come into their -hands, and having no amateur predilection for taking scalps at the -risk of losing their own, appeared willing enough to let the spoliated -adventurers depart without further molestation. - -“The destitute travellers, having run themselves short of provisions, -and being no longer able to kill game for want of materials to -load their rifles, they were very soon reduced to the necessity -of sustaining life upon roots and the tender bark of trees. After -travelling for several days in this desperate condition, with lacerated -feet, and utter prostration of mind and body, they began to disagree -among themselves about the route to be pursued, and eventually -separated into two distinct parties. Five of these unhappy men steered -a westward course, and after a succession of sufferings and privations -which almost surpassed belief, they reached the settlements of the -Creek Indians, near the Arkansas River, where they were treated with -great kindness and hospitality. The other five wandered about in the -greatest state of distress and bewilderment, and only two finally -succeeded in getting out of the mazes of the wilderness.” Mooney, -_Kiowa Calendar_, p. 255, gives the account of this occurrence from -Kiowa sources. They say that one Indian, Black Wolf, was killed in the -fight. - -After many difficulties, Gregg reached Santa Fé again, and prepared -to start south for Chihuahua, where a better market for his goods was -expected. They crossed the famous Jornada del Muerto, and reached El -Paso del Norte, and at last Chihuahua. Here was a country devoted to -cattle raising; the herds, according to Gregg, being almost as numerous -as those of the buffalo on the northern plains. Some time was devoted -to journeying through northern Mexico. - -On his return to Santa Fé, Gregg, having ordered his men to “rope a -beef” for food, from the herds which covered the plains, got into -trouble with the Mexican authorities, and was greatly delayed, being -taken back to Chihuahua and tried for his offence, but acquitted on the -ground of ignorance of the laws and the customs of the country. - -Shortly before they reached the Staked Plains, on their return, they -were attacked by a war-party of Pawnees on foot, who succeeded in -running off a few of the horses and in wounding two or three men. Their -Comanche guide took them safely across the plains, until at last they -reached the Canadian River. Gregg relates of the wind of the prairie: -“It will often blow a gale for days, and even weeks together, without -slacking for a moment, except occasionally at night. It is for this -reason, as well as on account of the rains, that percussion guns are -preferable upon the prairies, particularly for those who understand -their use. The winds are frequently so severe as to sweep away -both sparks and priming from a flintlock, and thus render it wholly -ineffective.” - -While following down the Canadian they found buffalo very abundant, -and the gentleness and lack of suspicion of the animal is noted. “On -one occasion, two or three hunters, who were a little in advance of -the caravan, perceiving a herd quietly grazing in an open glade, they -‘crawled upon’ them after the manner of the ‘still-hunters.’ Their -first shot having brought down a fine fat cow, they slipped up behind -her, and resting their guns over her body, shot two or three others, -without occasioning any serious disturbance or surprise to their -companions; for, extraordinary as it may appear, if the buffalo neither -see nor smell the hunter, they will pay but little attention to the -crack of guns, or to the mortality which is being dealt among them.” - -Gregg’s praiseworthy reflections on the wanton killing of the buffalo -are made in entire good faith, yet only a day or two later he frankly -confesses to some unnecessary killing that he did himself. He says -of the excessive destruction: “The slaughter of these animals is -frequently carried to an excess, which shows the depravity of the -human heart in very bold relief. Such is the excitement that generally -prevails at the sight of these fat denizens of the prairies, that very -few hunters appear able to refrain from shooting as long as the game -remains within reach of their rifles; nor can they ever permit a fair -shot to escape them. Whether the mere pleasure of taking life is the -incentive of these brutal excesses, I will not pretend to decide; but -one thing is very certain, that the buffalo killed on these prairies -far exceeds the wants of the travellers; or what might be looked upon -as the exigencies of rational sport.” In a foot-note he adds: “The -same barbarous propensity is observable in regard to wild horses. Most -persons appear unable to restrain this wanton inclination to take life, -when a mustang approaches within rifle shot. Many a stately steed thus -falls a victim to the cruelty of man.” - -In April, 1840, Gregg reached the end of his journey--his last trip -upon the plains. He was as susceptible as other men have shown -themselves to the attractions of the free life of the prairie, its -“sovereign independence”; but acknowledges the disadvantages which -follow an almost entire separation from one’s fellow-men. Nevertheless, -“Since that time,” he says, “I have striven in vain to reconcile myself -to the even tenor of civilized life in the United States; and have -sought in its amusements and its society a substitute for those high -excitements which have attached me so strongly to prairie life. Yet -I am almost ashamed to confess that scarcely a day passes without my -experiencing a pang of regret that I am not now roving at large upon -those Western plains. Nor do I find my taste peculiar; for I have -hardly known a man who has ever become familiar with the kind of life -which I have led for so many years, that has not relinquished it with -regret.” - -In his account of animals of the prairies, Gregg names first the -mustang; and here we find one of the earliest mentions of a traditional -wild horse, which has come down in many a story. - -“The beauty of the mustang is proverbial,” he writes. “One in -particular has been celebrated by hunters, of which marvellous stories -are told. He has been represented as a medium-sized stallion of perfect -symmetry, milk-white, save a pair of black ears--a natural ‘pacer,’ and -so fleet, it is said, as to leave far behind every horse that had been -tried in pursuit of him, without breaking his ‘pace.’ But I infer that -this story is somewhat mythical, from the difficulty which one finds in -fixing the abiding place of its equine hero. He is familiarly known, -by common report, all over the great prairies. The trapper celebrates -him in the vicinity of the northern Rocky Mountains; the hunter on the -Arkansas or in the midst of the plains, while others have him pacing at -the rate of half a mile a minute on the borders of Texas. It is hardly -a matter of surprise, then, that a creature of such an ubiquitary -existence should never have been caught. - -“The wild horses are generally well-formed, with trim and clean limbs; -still their elegance has been much exaggerated by travellers, because -they have seen them at large, abandoned to their wild and natural -gaiety. Then, it is true, they appear superb indeed; but when caught -and tamed, they generally dwindle down to ordinary ponies. Large droves -are very frequently seen upon the prairies, sometimes of hundreds -together, gambolling and curvetting within a short distance of the -caravans. It is sometimes difficult to keep them from dashing among the -loose stock of the traveller, which would be exceedingly dangerous, -for, once together, they are hard to separate again, particularly if -the number of mustangs is much the greatest. It is a singular fact, -that the gentlest wagon-horse (even though quite fagged with travel), -once among a drove of mustangs, will often acquire in a few hours all -the intractable wildness of his untamed companions.” - -It is many years since the real mustang has been seen on the prairie. -To-day his place is taken by the range horse, an animal of very -different character, though of similar habits. Yet, we well recall a -time, long before the day of the range, and its cattle or horses, when -journeying through the southern country, little bands of mustangs could -sometimes be seen. One such, which passed once close to our command, -was noticeable for the presence among its numbers of a gigantic mule, -which it had picked up from some travelling party, and which was now as -wild as the horses themselves. - -Naturally, Gregg has much to say about the buffalo, and he voices -an impression which long had currency, and may still be believed by -people, that the bulls were sentinels and guards for the cows and -calves. Speaking in general terms, he says: “A buffalo cow is about as -heavy as a common ox, while a large fat bull will weigh perhaps double -as much. - -“These are very gregarious animals. At some seasons, however, the cows -rather incline to keep to themselves; at other times they are mostly -seen in the centre of the gang, while the bulls are scattered around, -frequently to a considerable distance, evidently guarding the cows and -calves. And on the outskirts of the buffalo range, we are apt to meet -with small gangs of bulls alone, a day or two’s travel distant, as -though performing the office of ‘pique guards’ for the main herds.” - -In his remarks about the gray wolf and its habits, he touches on the -question as to whether the big wolf of America ever voluntarily attacks -man. He says: “I have never known these animals, rapacious as they -are, extend their attacks to man, though they probably would, if very -hungry, and a favorable opportunity presented itself. I shall not soon -forget an adventure with one of them, many years ago, on the frontier -of Missouri. Riding near the prairie border, I perceived one of the -largest and fiercest of the gray species, which had just descended from -the west, and seemed famished to desperation. I at once prepared for -a chase and, being without arms, I caught up a cudgel, when I betook -me valiantly to the charge, much stronger, as I soon discovered, in my -cause than in my equipment. The wolf was in no humor to flee, however, -but boldly met me the full half-way. I was soon disarmed, for my club -broke upon the animal’s head. He then ‘laid to’ my horse’s legs, which, -not relishing the conflict, gave a plunge and sent me whirling over his -head, and made his escape, leaving me and the wolf at close quarters. -I was no sooner upon my feet than my antagonist renewed the charge; -but, being without weapon, or any means of awakening an emotion of -terror, save through his imagination, I took off my large black hat, -and using it for a shield, began to thrust it toward his gaping jaws. -My ruse had the desired effect, for, after springing at me a few times, -he wheeled about and trotted off several paces, and stopped to gaze at -me. Being apprehensive that he might change his mind and return to the -attack, and conscious that, under the compromise, I had the best of the -bargain, I very resolutely took to my heels, glad of the opportunity of -making a draw game, though I had myself given the challenge.” - -Gregg devotes considerable space to a discussion of the aborigines of -America, and among these he mentions most of the prairie tribes. He -speaks at some length of what we now call the civilized tribes--that is -to say, the Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws, Chickasaws, and Seminoles. He -notes the dreadful evil that liquor has created among the Indians, and -gives, at the same time, a somewhat amusing account of the Legislative -Council among the Choctaws, where whiskey was banished from the nation: -“Many and long were the speeches which were made, and much enthusiasm -was created against the monster ‘whiskey,’ and all his brood of -compound enormities. Still every one seemed loth to move his arrest and -execution. Finally, a captain of more than ordinary temerity arose, -and offered a resolution that each and every individual who should -thenceforth dare to introduce any of the liquid curse into their -country, should be punished with a hundred lashes on his bare back, and -the liquor be poured out. This was passed, after some slight changes, -by acclamation; but, with a due sense of the injustice of ex-post-facto -restrictions, all those who had liquors on hand were permitted to sell -them. The council adjourned; but the members soon began to canvass -among each other the pernicious consequences which might result from -the protracted use of the whiskey already in the shops, and therefore -concluded the quicker it was drank up the more promptly would the evil -be over: so, falling to, in less than two hours Bacchus never mustered -a drunker troop than were these same temperance legislators. The -consequences of their determination were of lasting importance to them. -The law, with some slight improvements, has ever since been rigorously -enforced.” - -It is interesting to note that the Comanches, while bitterly at war -with the Mexicans and the Texans, for very many years, nevertheless, -cultivated peace with the New Mexicans, “not only because the poverty -of the country offers fewer inducements for their inroads, but because -it is desirable, as with the interior Mexican tribes, to retain some -friendly point with which to keep an amicable intercourse and traffic. -Parties of them have therefore sometimes entered the settlements of -New Mexico for trading purposes; while every season numerous bands of -New Mexicans, known as Comancheros, supplied with arms, ammunition, -trinkets, provisions, and other necessaries, launch upon the prairies -to barter for mules, and the different fruits of their ravages upon the -south.” - -Gregg’s history of these first beginnings of the westward commerce of -the United States is a most valuable and interesting repository of the -facts of the period. It purports to be only a diary of a trader, but -actually it is history. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -SAMUEL PARKER - - -In the year 1838 there was published in Ithaca, N. Y., by the author, -the _Journal of an Exploring Tour Beyond the Rocky Mountains, Under the -Direction of the A. B. C. F. M., Performed in the Years 1835, ’36, and -’37; Containing a Description of the Geography, Geology, Climate, and -Productions; and the Number, Manners, and Customs of the Natives. With -a Map of Oregon Territory._ By Rev. Samuel Parker, A.M. - -As may be imagined from this title, Mr. Parker was a missionary whose -business in setting out into the wild West was to spread the Gospel. -The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions sent him out -to ascertain by personal observation the condition and character of -the Indian nations and tribes, and the opportunities for introducing -the Gospel and civilization among them. He writes in a more or -less ponderous style, and his mind is dominated, as is natural, by -the missionary idea, to such an extent that his book at times even -has something of the flavor of some of the volumes of the _Jesuit -Relations_. - -At St. Louis Mr. Parker met Dr. Marcus Whitman, appointed by the -American Board to be his associate in his western explorations, and -here the two missionaries waited for a time until the caravan which -they were to accompany should be ready to start. - -Dr. Whitman’s name is so closely connected with the securing of Oregon -Territory by the United States that it is hardly necessary to speak of -him at any length. - -Before leaving Liberty, Mo., the steamer on which they were travelling -broke down, and it became necessary to proceed overland, and they -reached Fort Leavenworth early in May, 1835. During the journey -Parker met with a number of men who, at various times, had had close -intercourse with the Wichitas or Pawnee Picts, Comanches, Navajoes, -and Apaches; and from all these individuals he heard accounts which -made him think well of these wild and distant tribes, and of their -adaptability to Christianity and to civilized pursuits. He was -observant, too, of the local Indians--Iowas, Sacs, and Foxes--and was -favorably impressed by all. - -After reaching Council Bluffs there was a long wait before the caravan -set out on its western journey. Much is said of the Indians inhabiting -this region, Yanktons, Omahas, Poncas, and the more distant Mandans; -and some hints are given as to the mode of life of these tribes. The -party travelled up the Platte, meeting the usual difficulties and -discouragements attendant on the stormy weather in summer. Much of -the time they were drenched to the skin. Occasionally a storm of hail -would come, which scattered their animals, and much time was devoted -to gathering them again. Travelling westward, the two Campbells and -Sublette, with a few men, were met returning from the Black Hills. - -The apparently fertile bottom lands of the Platte, over which they -were travelling, greatly impressed the missionary, who prophesied -concerning it as follows: “No country could be more inviting to the -farmer, with only one exception--the want of woodland. The latitude is -sufficiently high to be healthy; and as the climate grows warmer as -we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped mountains, there is -a degree of mildness not experienced east of the Alleghany Mountains. -The time will come, and probably is not far distant, when this country -will be covered with a dense population. The earth was created for the -habitation of man, and for a theatre on which God will manifest his -perfections in his moral government among his moral creatures, and -therefore the earth, according to divine prediction, shall be given to -the people of God. Although infidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet -God will accomplish His designs and fulfill every promise contained -in His Word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will not -continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand Indians, with -only a very few acres under cultivation; nor will millions of tons -of grass grow up to rot upon the ground, or to be burned up with the -fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disincumber it of its -spontaneous burden. The herds of buffalo which once fattened upon these -meadows are gone; and the deer which once cropped the grass have -disappeared; and the antelopes have fled away; and shall solitude reign -here till the end of time? No: here shall be heard the din of business, -and the church-going bell shall sound far and wide.” - -Before long the travellers reached the Loup Fork, which they crossed; -and here they met a number of Pawnee Indians, who treated them with -great courtesy and kindness, and invited them to feast with them. -Reference is made here to Messrs. Dunbar and Allis, and to the -missionary work that they were doing among the Pawnees. - -From the Pawnee country the party kept on up the Platte, through the -open country. Here, it seems, those Indians most feared were the -Arickaras, not the Sioux and Cheyennes, as was the case thirty years -later. At this time that tribe was said to have gone far up the south -fork of the Platte to avoid the United States dragoons, under command -of Colonel Dodge, who was pursuing them. As Parker’s party went up the -north fork of the Platte, he speaks of “their using particular caution -to be prepared for an attack of the Arickaras, should any of their war -parties be about us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was -in good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We all -slept with our clothes on, so that, if called with the sentinels’ fire, -we might in less than a moment be ready for action.” - -Here is a word about the animals that they saw next day as they -journeyed on: - -“Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in great numbers, and in nearer view -than previously. They are less shy than those we first found. They are -more majestic than the elk, but less beautiful. The antelopes, some of -which we have seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous. -They are rightly named, for their speed exceeds any animal I have ever -seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them the chase; so soon are -they left far in the rear, that they do not follow them more than ten -or twenty rods before they return, looking ashamed of their defeat. Our -hunters occasionally take some of them by coming upon them by stealth. -When they are surprised, they start forward a very small space, and -then turn, and with high-lifted heads stare for a few seconds at the -object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whistling snuff, -bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as upon feet. They resemble -the goat, but are far more beautiful.” - -Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, and Scott’s Bluffs were duly passed. -Some very friendly Ogallallahs were met with just before they reached -the Laramie River. Their camp that night was close to the fort. Here -took place one of the days of revelry and carousing which are so -frequently noted in these old books as occurring periodically. There -were dances by the Indians, and other celebrations. Keeping on up the -Platte, they passed Independence Rock August 7th, and reached the -Sweetwater. The weather was now growing colder, and ice often made -during the night. - -[Illustration: TRAPPERS ATTACKED BY INDIANS. - -From an old print by A. Tait.] - -On reaching Green River they came to the rendezvous of the American -Fur Company. Who was in command Parker does not tell us; but that -various well-known persons were present is certain. For example, “While -we continued in this place, Dr. Whitman was called to perform some -very important surgical operations; he extracted an iron arrow three -inches long from the back of Captain Bridger, which he had received -in a skirmish three years before with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a -difficult operation, in consequence of the arrow being hooked at the -point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance had grown -around it. The Dr. pursued the operation with great self-possession -and perseverance, and Captain Bridger manifested equal firmness. The -Indians looked on while the operation was proceeding with countenances -indicating wonder, and when they saw the arrow, expressed their -astonishment in a manner peculiar to themselves. The skill of Dr. -Whitman undoubtedly made upon them a favorable impression. He also took -another arrow from under the shoulder of one of the hunters which had -been there two years and a half.” - -Here Parker consulted the Flatheads and Nez Percés, asking them if they -would be willing to receive a minister of the Gospel. They needed no -persuasion, but agreed to allow him to come to them, and so cordial was -their response, that it seemed best that Dr. Whitman should return with -the caravan, enlist some more workers, and return the next year with -another caravan, to establish a mission among these people. Dr. Whitman -at first was unwilling to leave his fellow missionary to go on alone, -but finally did so. - -During another day of drunkenness a fight took place at the rendezvous. -“A hunter, who goes technically by the name of the great bully of -the mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and challenged -any Frenchman, American, Spaniard or Dutchman to fight him in single -combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if he wished to die, he would -accept the challenge. Shunar defied him. Carson mounted his horse, and -with a loaded pistol rushed into close contact, and both almost at the -same instant fired. Carson’s ball entered Shunar’s hand, came out at -the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. Shunar’s ball -passed over the head of Carson, and while he went for another pistol, -Shunar begged that his life might be spared.” - -Parker had arranged to travel on with the Flatheads. The chief of these -gave him a young man as an assistant, and Parker secured a voyageur -who understood English and Nez Percé. Parker and his Indian friends -started, August 21, in company with Bridger, whose way led in the -same direction as theirs. Bridger had about fifty men. They followed -up the stream to Jackson’s Hole, and encamped on a small stream which -the author says is one of the upper branches of the Columbia River. He -says something about the difficulties of travel and the narrow passages -which it was necessary to traverse, and which he calls “kenyans.” This -term is found more or less frequently in these old books by persons -who seem to have written it down only from hearing the word spoken. -Near Jackson’s Hole he climbed one of the high mountains, and was -greatly impressed by what he saw. One day while travelling through the -mountains “a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our Indians, came -rushing down the side of the mountain through the midst of our company. -One ran over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and threw the -child far down the descent, but it providentially was not materially -injured. Another ran over a packed horse and wounded it deeply in the -shoulders.” - -Mr. Parker evidently enjoyed the companionship of the Indians, whom -he seems to have regarded with most pleasant feelings. He says: -“The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets with any -disaster, the others will wait and assist him. Their horses often turn -their packs and run, plunge and kick, until they free themselves from -their burdens. Yesterday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which -a child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hovered at -once around with their horses so as to inclose the one to which the -child was attached, and it was extricated without hurt. When I saw the -condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could be saved -alive.” - -A little later, still speaking of the children, he says of the Indians: -“They are so well supplied with horses that every man, woman and child -are mounted on horseback, and all they have is packed upon horses. -Small children, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and -generally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep them from -falling, and especially when they go asleep, which they often do when -they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horse’s shoulders; -and when they awake, they lay hold of their whip, which is fastened -to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their -horses; and it is astonishing to see how these little creatures will -guide and run them. Children which are still younger are put into an -encasement made with a board at the back, and a wicker-work around the -other parts, covered with cloth inside and without, or more generally -with dressed skins; and they are carried upon the mother’s back, or -suspended from a high nob upon the fore part of their saddles.” - -Still moving westward, early in September they met a band of Nez -Percés. They came to Parker’s camp about the middle of the day, “the -principal chief marching in front with his aid, carrying an American -flag by his side. They all sung a march, while a few beat a sort of -drum. As they drew near, they displayed columns, and made quite an -imposing appearance. The women and children followed in the rear.” - -The next day’s diary is devoted almost entirely to an account of -missionary work, in which the author gives an extract of the various -sermons that he preached to the Indians, who received his teachings -with great patience and interest. By this time the party was out -of provisions, and all were getting hungry, but no game was seen. -However, on September 9, buffalo were viewed, and preparations were -made to chase them. All the best hunters chose their swiftest horses, -and seeing that their arms were in good order, made ready for the -run; while Parker did what he could by lifting up “my heart in prayer -to God, that He would give them judgment, skill and success. They -advanced toward the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they -should frighten them before they should make a near approach; and also -to reserve the power of their horses for the chase when it should be -necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the buffalo took the -alarm and fled, the rush was made, each Indian selecting for himself a -cow with which he happened to come into the nearest contact. All were -in swift motion scouring the valley; a cloud of dust began to arise, -firing of guns and shooting of arrows followed in close succession; -soon here and there buffalo were seen prostrated, and the women, who -followed close in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable -acquisition, and the men were away again in pursuit of the fleeing -herd. Those in the chase when as near as two rods shoot and wheel, -expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses appeared -to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded animal -flies again, the chase is renewed, and such is the alternate wheeling -and chasing until the buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained -between fifty and sixty, which was a signal mercy.” - -Not long after this, the Nez Percés and Flatheads left them, wishing -to remain in the buffalo range to secure their winter’s meat. Before -going away, however, they presented Parker with twenty tongues and a -large quantity of dried meat. About a hundred and fifty of the Indians -kept on down Salmon River with the missionaries; and not long afterward -they had a tremendous Indian scare, supposing that they were about to -be attacked by the Blackfeet. A little investigation, however, showed -that what had been seen were buffalo, and not Blackfeet, and food again -became plenty in the camp. - -Parker appears to have been a man of considerable attainments. He -remarks upon the geology of the region he passes through; enumerates -the birds and mammals which he sees, and has much to say about the -habits and characteristics of the Indians; and interspersed through -all are frequent references to the Deity, His wishes and purposes as -interpreted by the missionary, together with earnest aspirations for -the spread of the Gospel among the red people. - -Walla Walla was reached early in October, and there, at the post of the -Hudson’s Bay Company, Parker was received by Mr. Pambrun with great -hospitality. For this the guest was very grateful, and he says many -good words concerning the kindly people and the company which they -represented; words which are not only good but true. - -After a day or two of rest at Walla Walla, the missionary started down -the river in a canoe with three Walla Walla Indians, and before long -stopped at a camp of Cayuse Indians, with whom, however, he was unable -to communicate. He noticed that all along the river as he passed, -the Indians, though of different tribes, seemed to be on good terms -with one another, a condition which was inevitable from the fact that -all these Indians drew their support from the river, to which they -resorted for salmon, and coming there for provisions, could not have -afforded to fight, even had they wished to. - -At the Dalles, Parker met Captain Wyeth, from Boston, with whom, it -will be remembered, Townsend and Nuttall had journeyed westward the -year before. A little above the Cascades he met the first Chenooks, -which he denominates “the only real Flatheads and Nez Percés, or -pierced noses, I have found. They flatten their heads and pierce their -noses. The flattening of their heads is not so great a deformity as is -generally supposed. From a little above the eyes to the apex or crown -of the head there is a depression, but not generally in adult persons -very noticeable. The piercing of the nose is more of a deformity, -and is done by inserting two small tapering white shells, about two -inches long, somewhat in the shape of a thorn, through the lower part -of the cartilaginous division of the nose.” While following the trail -along the river, he came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which -were several houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and -far better than any he had hitherto seen in any Indian country. They -were about sixty feet long and thirty-five wide, the frame work very -well constructed, and covered with split planks and cedar bark. These -houses thus greatly resemble those seen in recent times on the coast -of portions of British Columbia. The next day Mr. Parker reached Fort -Vancouver, the Hudson’s Bay post, where Dr. J. McLaughlin, a chief -factor of the company, received him very kindly. From here Parker -went on down the river, and reached the brig “May Dacre,” of Boston, -belonging to the Wyeth Company. Here he met Dr. Townsend, and before -long they set sail down the river, and reached Astoria, the far-famed -New York of the West. - -The Indians of the country beyond the Continental Divide through which -Parker passed, he divides into those of the plains, which live in the -upper country from the falls of the Columbia to the Rocky Mountains, -and those of the lower country, between the shores of the Pacific and -the falls of the Columbia River. He observes that the first of these -divisions are remarkable for their cleanliness; that they are well -supplied with horses, which are very cheap, a good horse selling for -not more than enough to purchase a blanket or a few small articles -of merchandise. As to their habits, he declares that the Indians of -the plains are not lazy, as they are commonly supposed to be, for he -rarely saw any of those Indians without their being engaged in some -pursuit. To him the Indians appeared as they since have to others--not -especially different from other people. They have the same natural -propensities, and the same social affections. “They are cheerful and -often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate; and anxious to receive -instruction in whatever may conduce to their happiness here or -hereafter.” They have but few manufactures, and those are the most -plain and simple. - -He calls attention to the fact that these Indians have no wars among -themselves, and appear averse to all wars, not entering into battle -except in self-defence. Their only enemies are the Blackfoot Indians, -whose country is along the east border of the Rocky Mountains, and -who are constantly roaming about in parties on both sides of the -mountains in quest of plunder. When the Indians on the West side meet -with these war parties they endeavor to avoid an encounter, but if -compelled to fight, “show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and -rush upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity.” When an enemy -is discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the women take -charge of them, while every man seizes his weapons, mounts his horse, -and waits, firm and undismayed, to see if hostilities must ensue. Very -frequently when the Blackfeet see white men with the Nez Percés and -Flatheads, they decline battle, even though they themselves may be far -superior in numbers, for they know that the white man can furnish a -large supply of ammunition on such occasions. The Nez Percé or Flathead -chief will accept the pipe, explaining as he does so that he knows the -Blackfeet mean war, although they pretend peace. - -The Indians were great gamblers, especially at running horses and in -foot-races. Drunkenness was a vice as yet strange to these Indians, but -Parker predicted that it would come to them so soon as it was possible -to transport liquor to them. He describes the method of doctoring by a -medicine man, and the practice of the sudatory or sweat bath. All this -is of the plains Indians. - -Those of the lower country are of less attractive type than the others. -As their subsistence depends almost entirely on fish, they are less -well clad, for they have not the same opportunity to obtain skins as -the people of the buffalo country. Liquor had been brought into the -lower country, and the Indians were slaves to it. - -These Indians believe in the immortality of the soul, and that in -the future state we shall have the same wants as in this life. Thus, -in 1829, the wife of an influential chief of the Chenooks, near Cape -Disappointment, killed two female slaves, which should attend her child -to the world of spirits, and especially should row her canoe to the -Happy Hunting Ground in the South. - -As the wealth of the upper Indians is estimated in their horses, so -those of the lower country count their property by the number of their -wives, slaves, and canoes. Special attention is called to the excellent -canoes which they make, and also to the baskets woven so closely as to -hold water, and to be used for pails. Of course, they were also used as -pots in which to cook fish and mush. - -After having spent the winter on the Columbia, Parker set out in May -to revisit the Nez Percés. He reached them in a short time, and, as it -happened, came to a village just as a little child was being buried. -The Indians had prepared a cross to be set up at the grave, very likely -having been taught to do so by some Iroquois Indians, of whom there -were not a few trapping in the country; and here appears the bigotry of -the missionary of that, and indeed of later days as well, for Parker -says: “But as I viewed a cross of wood made by men’s hands, of no -avail to benefit either the dead or the living, and far more likely -to operate as a salve to a guilty conscience, or a stepping stone to -idolatry, than to be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to the -crucifixion of our sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepared, -and broke it to pieces. I then told them we place a stone at the head -and foot of the grave only to mark the place; and without a murmur they -cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our custom.” - -Parker appears to have regarded the Nez Percé Indians as especially -adapted to conversion, and laments that he is unable to speak their -language, and thus to communicate with them directly. Parker was an -active and conscientious person, and evidently wished to see all he -could of the country to which he had been sent. He set out from the -Nez Percés for the Colville country, meeting Spokanes, Cayuses, Cœur -d’Alenes, and a number of other small tribes. Returning, he was unable -to get transportation down the Columbia River, and was obliged to take -horses for Fort Okanagan. The journey was long and very dry, and the -party suffered more of less from thirst. At Fort Okanagan he took a -boat to run down the river four hundred miles to Walla Walla, which he -reached in safety. Toward the end of June he took ship for the Sandwich -Islands, and in December, 1836, sailed on board the “Phœnix” for his -home in the East. After a stormy passage he reached New London, May 18, -and five days later, after two years and two months of absence, and -journeyings which covered twenty-eight thousand miles, arrived at his -home at Ithaca, N. Y. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -THOMAS J. FARNHAM - -I - - -A curious little book, the title-page of which bears the date 1841, -is Thomas J. Farnham’s, _Travels in the Great Western Prairies, The -Anahuac and Rocky Mountains, And in The Oregon Territory_. It was -published in Poughkeepsie, N. Y., by Killey & Lossing, printers. It -contains nearly two hundred pages, and is printed in very fine type, -and on thin paper, with small margins; so that in fact it looks more -like a tract than a volume. Yet it contains about a hundred and twenty -thousand words. - -Its title indicates the character of the book. It is the narrative -of a journey made in order to obtain “a view of the Great Prairie -Wilderness, the Rocky Mountains, and the sweet vales of the Oregon -Territory.” - -Farnham was one of a party of fourteen men who left Peoria, Ill., -on the first day of May, 1839. The company was followed by a wagon -containing their provisions, ammunition, and other baggage, and each -man carried “a rifle swung at his back; a powder horn, bullet pouch and -long knife at his side.” - -[Illustration: TRAIN STAMPEDED BY WILD HORSES. - -From Bartlett’s _Texas, New Mexico, California_, etc.] - -Their way westward was marked by no adventure, except the usual ones of -travel on the prairie; but at Quincy the author met Joe Smith, Jr., the -father of the Mormon prophet, and he interrupts his narrative to give -a somewhat extended account of Mormonism and the history of the Latter -Day Saints up to that time. From Quincy they passed on to Independence, -Mo., twenty days out from their starting point. Here the travellers -beheld a sight novel to them--the breaking of green mules to harness; -and after some time devoted to loitering about Independence, and making -preparations for their journey, they started westward in a storm. - -Farnham’s party followed the track of the Santa Fé traders, and, like -others who passed over this road, they met with the Kauzaus (Kansas) -Indians, whom they saw and wondered at. Early in the trip, near the -Osage River, the members of Farnham’s company began to weary of prairie -life, and three of his best men determined to return to the “States,” -and left him. The journey continued along the Santa Fé trail, but -provisions began to grow short. Game was seen from time to time, but -none was killed. Continual storms drenched them, wet their packs and -their ropes, and made life more or less of a burden to them. At last, -however, in the latter half of June, they came to the buffalo range, -overtaking there a party of Santa Fé traders. - -Buffalo now began to be found, and the party killed their first one, -“a noble bull; a mountain of flesh weighing at least three thousand -pounds.” This relieved their necessities, but they were anxious, -because of the prospect of soon meeting Indians--Caws, Pawnees, or -Comanches, or all three. And now, to make things worse, one of the -men of the party accidentally shot himself with his own rifle. For a -day or two he was carried in one of the wagons belonging to the Santa -Fé caravan, but presently Farnham’s party turned off from this trail, -and then the wounded man was obliged either to ride a horse or travel -in a litter. Experiment soon showed, however, that the last method of -travelling was impracticable, and it was necessary for the man to ride. -His wound became inflamed and painful, but the constant care of the -author made life much easier for the wounded man. “June 23, the buffalo -were more numerous than ever. They were ranged in long lines from the -eastern to the western horizon. The bulls were forty or fifty yards in -advance of the bands of cows, to which they severally intended to give -protection. And as the moving embankment of wagons, led by an advanced -guard, and flanked by horsemen riding slowly from front to rear, and -guarded in the rear by men, made its majestic way along, these fiery -cavaliers would march each to his own band of dames and misses, with -an air that seemed to say, ‘we are here’; and then back again to -their lines, with great apparent satisfaction, that they were able -to do battle for their sweet ones and their native plains.” Farnham -says that during three days they passed over a country so completely -covered by buffalo that it appeared oftentimes dangerous even for the -immense cavalcade of the Santa Fé traders to attempt to break its -way through them. He figures that they travelled over one thousand -three hundred and fifty square miles of territory so thickly covered -with buffalo that, when viewed from a height, it scarcely afforded a -sight of a square league of its surface. Soon after this, disaffection -showed itself in the ranks of Farnham’s company, and it was proposed to -abandon the wounded man, the mutineers declaring that he would die in -any event, and that it was not worth while to delay the whole party to -await that event. - -Now, too, a jealousy as to the command arose. There was a bully who -determined to frighten Farnham into abdicating the leadership of the -party in his favor. - -At last they reached Fort William, or Bent’s Fort, on the Arkansas, and -on account of the differences which had sprung up within the party, it -was decided to disband here. The property owned in common was to be -divided up among the members of the expedition, and they were to go -their several ways. As it turned out, Farnham and a few others went on -together. - -“Fort William,” he says, “is owned by three brothers by the name of -Bent, from St. Louis. Two of them were at the post when we arrived -there. They seemed to be thoroughly initiated into Indian life; -dressed like chiefs; in moccasins, thoroughly garnished with beads -and porcupine quills; in trousers of deer-skin, with long fringes of -the same extending along the outer seam from the ankle to the hip; in -the splendid hunting shirt of the same material, with sleeves fringed -on the elbow-seam from the wrist to the shoulder, and ornamented -with figures of porcupine quills of various colors, and leathern -fringe around the lower edge of the body. And chiefs they were in the -authority exercised in their wild and lonely fortress.” - -The country in which the fort was situated was then the common -hunting-ground of several buffalo tribes, unfriendly alike to one -another and the whites. The Utaws and Cheyennes, the Pawnees and the -Comanches gathered here in summer to hunt the buffalo; and thus, in -the neighborhood of the post, there might be from fifteen to twenty -thousand savages, “ready and panting for plunder and blood.” If the -Indians engaged in fighting had their own battles among themselves, -the people of Bent’s Fort felt safe; but if the Indians kept the peace -among themselves, there was great anxiety at Fort William. - -“Instances of the daring intrepidity of the Comanches that occurred -just before and after my arrival here, will serve to show the hazard -and dangers of which I have spoken. About the middle of June, 1839, -a band of sixty of them under cover of night crossed the river and -concealed themselves among the bushes that grow thickly on the bank -near the place where the animals of the establishment feed during -the day. No sentinel being on duty at the time, their presence was -unobserved, and when morning came the Mexican horse guard mounted -his horse, and with the noise and shouting usual with that class of -servants when so employed, rushed his charge out of the fort; and -riding rapidly from side to side of the rear of the band, urged them -on, and soon had them nibbling the short dry grass in the little vale -within grape-shot distance of the guns of the bastions. It is customary -for a guard of animals about these trading posts to take his station -beyond his charge; and if they stray from each other, or attempt to -stroll too far, he drives them together, and thus keeps them in the -best possible situation to be driven hastily to the corral, should the -Indians, or other evil persons, swoop down upon them. And as there is -constant danger of this, his horse is held by a long rope, and grazes -around him, that he may be mounted quickly at the first alarm for a -retreat within the walls. The faithful guard at Bent’s, on the morning -of the disaster I am relating, had dismounted after driving out his -animals, and sat upon the ground watching with the greatest fidelity -for every call of duty; when these fifty or sixty Indians sprang from -their hiding places, ran upon the animals, yelling horribly, and -attempted to drive them across the river. The guard, however, nothing -daunted, mounted quickly, and drove his horse at full speed among them. -The mules and horses hearing his voice amidst the frightening yells of -the savages, immediately started at a lively pace for the fort; but the -Indians were on all sides and bewildered them. The guard still pressed -them onward and called for help: and on they rushed, despite the -efforts of the Indians to the contrary. The battlements were covered -with men. They shouted encouragement to the brave guard--‘Onward! -onward!’ and the injunction was obeyed. He spurred his horse to his -greatest speed from side to side, and whipped the hindermost of the -band with his leading rope. He had saved every animal; he was within -twenty yards of the open gate; he fell; three arrows from the bows of -the Comanches had cloven his heart. And relieved of him, the lords of -the quiver gathered their prey, and drove them to the borders of Texas, -without injury to life or limb. I saw this faithful guard’s grave. He -had been buried a few days. The wolves had been digging into it. Thus -forty or fifty mules and horses and their best servant’s life, were -lost to the Messrs. Bent in a single day. I have been informed also -that those horses and mules, which my company had taken great pleasure -in recovering for them in the plains, were also stolen in a similar -manner soon after my departure from the post; and that the gentlemen -owners were in hourly expectation of an attack upon the fort itself.” - -It was midsummer when Farnham left Fort William, with four companions, -for Oregon Territory. He stopped at Fort El Puebla, five miles above -Bent’s Fort, and here met a number of trappers. One of these greatly -impressed him, a man from New Hampshire. “He had been educated at -Dartmouth College, and was, altogether, one of the most remarkable -men I ever knew. A splendid gentleman, a finished scholar, a critic -on English and Roman literature, a politician, a trapper, an Indian.” -Dressed in a deer-skin frock, leggings and moccasins; there was not a -shred of cloth about his person. Stiff, cold, and formal at first, he -thawed as their acquaintance grew, and gave Farnham glimpses into his -nature which greatly interested the traveller. There were other men -among these trappers, who told the author tales of adventure which he -gladly set down, and which are well worth reproducing did space permit. -Here Farnham traded for additional horses, and before long they set out -to cross the mountains. - -Led by a trapper named Kelly, who was familiar with the country -through which they were to go, the party followed up the Arkansas, and -at last entered the Rocky Mountains. Before they had gone very far -their way seemed barred by mountains impracticable for pack-horses; -yet their guides, after considering the way, marched straight onward -over mountains of which some notion may be had from the following -description: “The upper half, though less steep, proved to be the worst -part of the ascent. It was a bed of rocks, at one place small and -rolling, at another large and fixed, with deep openings between them. -So that our animals were almost constantly falling, and tottering upon -the brink of the cliffs, as they rose again and made their way among -them. An hour and a half of this most dangerous and tiresome clambering -deposited us in a grove of yellow pines near the summit. Our animals -were covered with sweat and dirt, and trembled as if at that instant -from the race track. Nor were their masters free from every ill of -weariness. Our knees smote each other with fatigue, as Belshazzar’s -did with fear. Many of the pines on this ridge were two feet in -diameter, and a hundred feet high, with small clusters of limbs around -the tops. Others were low, and clothed with strong limbs quite near -the ground. Under a number of these latter we had seated ourselves, -holding the reins of our riding horses, when a storm arose with the -rapidity of a whirlwind, and poured upon us hail and rain and snow with -all imaginable liberality. A most remarkable tempest was this.... One -portion of it had gathered its electricity and mist around James’ Peak -in the east; another among the white heights northwest; and a third -among the snowy pyramids of the Utaws in the southwest; and marshalling -their hosts, met over this connecting ridge between the eastern and -central ranges, as if by general battle to settle a vexed question -as to the better right to the pass; and it was sublimely fought. The -opposing storms met nearly at the zenith, and fiercely rolled together -their angry masses. And as if to carry out the simile I have here -attempted, at the moment of their junction, the electricity of each -leaped upon its antagonist transversely across the heavens, and in some -instances fell in immense bolts upon the trembling cliffs; and then -instantly came a volley of hail as grape-shot, sufficient to whiten all -the towers of this horrid war. It lasted an hour.” - -After the tempest had ceased they clambered to the summit--whence they -had a marvellous view of the Great Main snowy range of the “Rocky,” -“Stony” or “Shining” mountains--then, clambering down on the other -side, they camped not far below, on the headwaters of the Platte River, -in what is now North Park, Colorado. Food was scarce, and nothing had -been killed since they left Fort William; but when they came in sight -of the Bayou Salade, Kelly promised them that before long they would -have meat; and sure enough, during the day a buffalo was seen, killed -by the guide, and greedily devoured. A hearty meal of its flesh; -tongue, fat ribs, tenderloin, marrow-bones, and blood-pudding were all -enjoyed, and the party ate almost the whole night long. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV - -THOMAS J. FARNHAM - -II - - -They were now in the country of the Utes, or rather, in the debatable -land visited for hunting purposes by Utes, Cheyennes, Arapahoes, -Shoshoni, Blackfeet, and Crows. They therefore travelled with some -care, put out their fires at night, looked to their arms, and prepared -to meet the foe. No Indians were seen, however; but another misfortune -visited them in the loss of one of the guide’s horses, poisoned by some -food that it had eaten. - -As they journeyed on, food again became scarce, and the travel was so -difficult that they had no time to hunt, and suffered from hunger. On -the Little Bear River they met a party of four French Canadians, who -a few days before had been attacked by a Sioux war party on Little -Snake River [of Colorado]. Here again attention is called to the -difference in character of the French and the American trappers. The -former are mercurial, volatile, and always merry, cheering themselves -on their journeys with song; while the American trapper is watchfulness -personified, and his concentration in this direction destroys all -frivolity. “They seldom smile; the expression of their countenances -is watchful, solemn and determined. They ride and walk like men whose -breasts have so long been exposed to the bullet and arrow, that fear -finds within them no resting place. If a horseman is descried in the -distance, they put spurs to their animals and are at his side at once, -as the result may be for death or life. No delay, no second thought, -no cringing in their stirrups; but erect, firm, and with a strong arm, -they seize and overcome every danger ‘or perish,’ say they, ‘as white -men should,’ fighting promptly and bravely.” - -On parting next day--August 5--with the French and American trappers, -two of Farnham’s party left him. Farnham notes the kindness and -free-handedness of the trappers. He had given them a little ammunition, -and they sought to repay the kindness by presenting him and his party -with moccasins, dressed deer and elk skins, and other articles. -“Everything, even their hunting shirts upon their backs, were at our -service; always kindly remarking when they made an offer of such -things, that ‘the country was filled with skins, and they could get -a supply when they should need them,’” It was this same day that a -man, pursuing some bears, found among the brush a prize--an excellent -pack-mule, feeding quietly, and so tame as to permit him to approach -within ten yards of it without even raising its head. The man prepared -to catch it, when suddenly the mule “most wonderfully, most cruelly, -metamorphosed itself into an elk!--fat as marrow itself, and sufficient -in weight to have fed our company for twelve days--and fled away,” -the man who had prepared to catch it being too astonished to shoot at -it. This was unlucky, for now they had no food. Game was seen several -times, but none was killed. The next day, however, a family of bears -was seen, and two cubs secured. They weighed about twelve pounds -apiece, and made for the party, as the author expresses it, “a filthy -supper.” They were trying to reach Brown’s Hole, but progress was slow. -For forty-eight hours after the finishing of the cubs they had no food; -and then, with great regret, they killed their dog, singed and ate it. -At last, after more days of hunger, they found themselves in Brown’s -Hole, and at Fort David Crockett. - -Here there was food and to spare, and white men, traders, especially -one Robinson, who traded chiefly with the Snakes. This was very likely -“Uncle Jack Robinson,” who died, a very old man, at Fort Bridger about -1894. He was one of the party of trappers who found the Arapahoe baby -whom they named Friday. - -In this “Happy Valley,” which, however, was not free from incursions by -the wandering enemy, the travellers spent much time, and here Farnham -puts down some things that he learned concerning the Snake, Crow, -Blackfeet, and Arapahoe Indians. He describes especially the pestilence -which visited the Blackfeet in 1828, at which time they numbered about -two thousand five hundred lodges, or families, which would perhaps mean -twelve thousand five hundred people. This enumeration may perhaps refer -to the Piegan Blackfeet alone, or to all three of the tribes of that -nation. - -At that time, as in later visits of this dread disease, the Blackfeet -treatment was by the sweat lodge, followed by a plunge into icy water, -from which often the weakened victim was unable to struggle again to -the shore. At this time the Blackfoot camp, it is said, was on the -banks of the Yellowstone. - -A glimpse of the estimation in which the Blackfeet were held in those -days is afforded by the reflection with which the author concludes his -description of this scourge; for he says: “But this infliction has in -no wise humanized their blood-thirsty nature. As ever before, they -wage exterminating war upon the traders and trappers, and the Oregon -Indians.” - -At Brown’s Hole, Farnham met an old Snake Indian who had seen Lewis -and Clark on the headwaters of the Missouri in 1805. This man was the -first of his people who saw the exploring white man. “He appears to -have been galloping from place to place in the office of sentinel to -the Shoshoni camp, when he suddenly found himself in the very presence -of the whites. Astonishment fixed him to the spot. Men with faces pale -as ashes had never been seen by himself or his nation. ‘The head rose -high and round, the top flat; it jutted over the eyes in a thin rim; -their skin was loose and flowing, and of various colors.’ His fears at -length overcoming his curiosity, he fled in the direction of the Indian -encampment. But being seen by the whites they pursued and brought him -to their camp; exhibited to him the effects of their firearms, loaded -him with presents, and let him go. Having arrived among his own people, -he told them he had seen men with faces pale as ashes, who were makers -of thunder, lightning, etc. This information astounded the whole tribe. -They had lived many years, and their ancestors had lived many more, and -there were many legends which spoke of many wonderful things; but a -tale like this they had never heard. A council was therefore assembled -to consider the matter. The man of strange words was summoned before -it; and he rehearsed, in substance, what he had before told to others, -but was not believed. ‘All men were red, and therefore he could not -have seen men as pale as ashes. The Great Spirit made the thunder and -lightning; he therefore could not have seen men of any color that could -produce them. He had seen nothing; he had lied to his chief, and should -die.’ At this stage of the proceedings, the culprit produced some of -the presents which he had received from the pale men. These being quite -as new to them as pale faces were, it was determined ‘that he should -have the privilege of leading his judges to the place where he declared -he had seen these strange people; and if such were found there, he -should be exculpated; if not, these presents were to be considered as -conclusive evidence against him, that he dealt with evil spirits, and -that he was worthy of death by the arrows of his kinfolks.’ The pale -men--the thunder makers--were found, and were witnesses of the poor -fellow’s story. He was released, and has ever since been much honored -and loved by his tribe, and every white man in the mountains. He is -now about eighty years old, and poor. But as he is always about Fort -David Crockett, he is never permitted to want.” - -At Brown’s Hole arrived Paul Richardson, who was returning from the -borders of Oregon to St. Louis. He had guided some missionaries and -others, from the Western States to that unknown region, and among them -a man whose purpose it was to conquer the territory of California. The -missionaries were Messrs. Munger and Griffith, and their wives were -with them. Influenced by Richardson’s story, which was very unfavorable -to Oregon as a place of residence, two of Farnham’s men determined to -return to the Mississippi Valley. This left him only Blair, an old -man, and the useless person whose life he had saved, as companions for -the long journey before him. The event was disheartening. Farnham, -however, was a man of determination, and was not to be turned from -his purpose of striving, at least, to reach the mouth of the Colorado -River that season. He therefore engaged a Snake Indian to pilot him to -Fort Hall, about two hundred miles distant; the compensation offered -for the service being fifty loads of ammunition, and three bunches -of beads. One of the melancholy things of continuing the journey was -the necessity of parting with Kelly, the trapper who had bravely and -effectively guided them from Fort William to Brown’s Hole. When the -last farewells were said, they started off, following the Green River, -which here is called Sheetskadee; and on a tributary of this stream, -a day or two later, Farnham lost his Pueblo mare--a prairie, and not -a mountain, horse--which, after escaping many dangers in climbing the -rough mountains to the eastward, at last fell over a cliff about six -hundred feet high and was killed. - -When starting out from Fort David Crockett, they had been ill supplied -with food, of which a considerable part was dog meat, but Jim, the -Indian guide, occasionally killed an antelope, which kept the party -from suffering. While still travelling up the river, they met a free -trapper, named Madison Gordon, who told them the usual story of few -beaver, and little game; and he declared that he purposed to move West, -and to begin farming in the valley of the Willamette, which he averred -was the purpose also of a large number of his fellow trappers. One -morning, as they were packing, the guide detected in the distance, down -the river, people coming. Who these might be they did not know. They -had visions of war parties of Crows, Sioux, and Blackfeet, and prepared -for the attack; put new caps on their rifles, mounted, and took up a -favorable position. But before long their guide rode out from behind -their brush-wood camp and hurried his horse toward the stranger. This -man proved to be the celebrated bear killer, Meek--perhaps the man -whose story is told in a book entitled, _The River of the West_, which -gives much of the history of the early settlements on the Columbia -River. A day or two after this, food must have again become scarce -with them, for the author says, quite incidentally, “at sunset our -camp kettle was bubbling over the bones of a pelican at the ‘Steamboat -Spring.’” Think of the joy of eating boiled pelican! What more nauseous -dish can be imagined. Crossing over into the valley of Bear River, they -hurried on their way, frequently made uneasy by finding the tracks of -people, and even by seeing camp fires at night, and at length reached -Fort Hall, and full meals, in which fresh buffalo tongue figured -largely. - -After a short stay at Fort Hall, Farnham and his people, under the -guidance of an Indian, set out to cross the burnt plains of Snake -River. Two or three days out the party was joined by a Swiss trapper -who had been eight years in the mountains. He had been a student in a -seminary, but had deserted that training-ground for the priesthood and -had come to America and taken to the mountains. - -The wormwood deserts of the Snake River were hard enough on the -travellers, but harder still on their animals, which had little to eat. -Digger Indians were sometimes met; and when they reached the Boisais -River they found Indians in considerable numbers engaged in taking -salmon for their winter provisions. They were pleasant, hospitable, and -ready to trade provisions, or even horses; and here the party renewed -their stock. It was here too that their guide left them, explaining -that now that he had come to the country of another people, it would -not be good manners to act as guide through their land. Left without -guidance in a country cut up with trails, they were obliged to depend -on themselves, but at length succeeded in hiring a number of Bonak -[Bannock] Indians to guide them to the fort, which they were now -approaching. - -The fort at Boisais was as hospitable as all the others had been. This -post was built in 1832 by the Hudson’s Bay Company to counteract the -influence of Wyeth’s Fort Hall, the building of which is described -in J. K. Townsend’s sketches. At this time it was commanded by Mr. -Payette. The stay at Boisais was not long, and the travellers moved on -over a country sometimes easy to traverse, again extremely difficult. -In some places all the party walked, except the worthless Smith, who -insisted on making his unfortunate beast carry him over the roughest -ground. A few days later they reached the Columbia River, and crossing -over found themselves before the mission, in the presence of Dr. -Whitman. Mr. Munger and Mr. Hall were also there. A pretty picture is -painted of the life and work of this mission among the Skyuse Indians, -whom they were endeavoring to teach the ordinary occupations of -civilized life. - -At the Dalles Farnham saw some Chinooks, and declared that they -flattened their heads more and are more stupid than any other tribe on -the Columbia. - -He tells us that these Indians subsist on the acorns of the white oak -and on fish. For winter the fish is dried, and then pounded to powder -and mixed with the oil of the leaf fat of the fish, and packed away -in flag sacks; thus making a sort of fish pemmican. Although no salt -is used in this preparation, it remains good through the winter. The -acorns, gathered as soon as they fall to the ground, are buried in -sand, which is kept constantly saturated with water, where they remain -till spring. This soaking is said to remove their bitter flavor. - -Passing on down the Columbia, Farnham passed various settlements and -farms, one of which belonged to Thomas McKay, son of the McKay who -figured with John Jacob Astor in the doings of the Pacific Fur Company. -McKay was building a grist mill, and it was well advanced toward -completion. The mother of McKay was a Cree or Chippewa Indian. This is -the McKay spoken of by Townsend. - -It was just at this time that the British, as well as the Americans, -were beginning to take possession of Oregon, and what is now -Washington. It had long been occupied by the Hudson’s Bay Company; but, -on the other hand, many Americans had traded and settled there; and the -American settlers were urgent that they should be protected, declaring -this to be a portion of their country’s domain. The settlers held a -meeting while Farnham was there, and handed him a petition, signed by -sixty-seven citizens of the United States, and persons desirous of -becoming such, the substance of which was a description of the country, -their unprotected situation, and a prayer that the Federal Government -would extend over them the protection and institutions of the Republic. - -Farnham’s original intention was to explore Oregon during the winter -then beginning, and during the following summer to return to the States -with the American fur traders. Already the rainy season had begun, -however, and it was uncertain whether the traders would return to the -States next year. That plan had to be given up. Finally he determined -to take ship from the mouth of the Columbia River either for New York -or California, as the opportunity might offer. - -At Fort Vancouver he found a number of Hudson’s Bay people, with whom -the time passed very pleasantly. Then, again taking to his canoe, he -passed down to the mouth of the river, where he found the good ship -“Vancouver,” Captain Duncan; and shortly after, passing out to sea, -Farnham’s travels in the great Anahuac were ended. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI - -FREMONT - -I - - -The inequality with which fame distributes her favors has always -been a fertile subject for moralist and philosopher. One man may do -great things, and yet through innate modesty, or ill fortune of some -sort, may make no impression on the popular imagination; so that -his deeds are soon forgotten. Another, by a series of fortunately -narrated adventures of relatively much less difficulty and danger, -may acquire the name of having accomplished great things. Zebulon M. -Pike, the explorer, was a man of the first kind. John C. Fremont, -commonly spoken of as the Pathfinder, and by many people believed -to have been the discoverer of the Rocky Mountains, belonged to the -second class. The work that Fremont did was good work, but it was -not great. He was an army officer, sent out to survey routes across -the continent; and he did his duty, and did it well; but he did not -discover the Rocky Mountains, nor did he discover gold in California, -as often supposed. He passed over routes already well known to the men -of the plains and the mountains, and discovered little that was new, -except the approximate location of many points. Nevertheless, in his -two expeditions, which cover the years 1842 and 1843, and 1844, he -traversed ten thousand miles of wilderness, between the Missouri River -and the shores of the Pacific; and he connected the surveys of the -State of Missouri with those made by the Wilkes expedition at the mouth -of the Columbia. This involved much labor and hardship, and was of high -value at the time, but it is not to be compared with the work done by -Lewis and Clark, and Pike; and the fact that Fremont gained great fame -while his predecessors seemed until recently to be almost forgotten, -seems unjust. - -Fremont’s first expedition went only as far as the Rocky Mountains, -terminating at the South Pass and Fremont’s Peak. The second, which -reached those mountains by another route, crossed them at the South -Pass, and proceeded West to the Oregon River--the Columbia--and -northern California. - -The story of these two journeys is embodied in a report addressed to -the Chief of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and published in -Washington in 1845. - -Although a formal report, made by an army officer, and written in -the ordinary style of an itinerary of the daily march, yet Fremont’s -account of his travels is told with much vividness; and quite apart -from the interest which attaches to it as a description of the still -unexplored West, it attracts by its graphic style. The accounts of the -hunting, encounters with Indians, and mountain climbing are spirited; -and the descriptions of wild scenery show real feeling. - -[Illustration: MAJOR-GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT.] - -Fremont’s party consisted of Charles Preuss, his assistant in -topography; L. Maxwell, a hunter, with Kit Carson as guide. L. Maxwell -and Kit Carson had long before this both been employed at Bent’s -old fort--Fort William. They had married sisters, daughters of Mr. -Beaubien of Taos, N. M., who a few years later was killed in the Pueblo -rising at Taos. He had over twenty Frenchmen, Creoles, and Canadian -voyageurs, old prairie men, who had been servants of the fur companies. -Among these men are such names as Lambert, L’Esperance, Lefevre, -Lajeunesse, Cadotte, Clément, Simonds, Latulippe, Badeau, Chardonnais, -and Janisse. The children and grandchildren of some, perhaps of many -of these men, are still living, at various points in the West, and -still bear the names of their ancestors. Joseph Clément, for example, -probably a son of old man Clément, lives to-day on the Standing Rock -Indian Reservation, in South Dakota. Nicholas and Antoine Jeunesse, or -Janisse, a few years ago were still alive, one at Pine Ridge, the other -at Whetstone Agency, in South Dakota. Antoine Janisse died at Pine -Ridge in 1897 and his brother Nicholas about 1905. - -The expedition started on Friday, June 10, from Cyprian Chouteau’s -trading-post, near the mouth of the Kansas River, and marched up that -stream. Their baggage, instruments and provisions were carried in mule -carts, of which they had eight; and the men, except the drivers of -these carts, were mounted; and some of them drove loose horses. A few -oxen were taken along for food. They marched up the Kansas River, and -from time to time purchased milk, butter, and vegetables at Indian -farms, a condition of things which indicates that the Indians at that -time were further advanced toward civilization and self-support than -many of them seem to be at the present day. It was the practice to -encamp an hour or two before sunset, when the carts were arranged so as -to form a sort of barricade, or at least to mark the boundaries of a -circle about the camp, eighty yards in diameter. - -“The tents were pitched and the horses hobbled and turned loose to -graze; and but a few minutes elapsed before the cooks of the messes, -of which there were four, were busily engaged in preparing the evening -meal.... When we had reached a part of the country where such a -precaution became necessary, the carts being regularly arranged for -defending the camp, guard was mounted at eight o’clock, consisting of -three men, who were relieved every two hours; the morning watch being -horse guard for the day. At daybreak the camp was roused, the animals -turned loose to graze, and breakfast generally over between six and -seven o’clock, when we resumed our march, making regularly a halt at -noon for one or two hours.” - -During his march up the Kansas River, Fremont speaks of passing a -large but deserted Kansas village, “scattered in an open wood along -the margin of the stream, on a spot chosen with the customary Indian -fondness for beauty of scenery. The Pawnees had attacked it in the -early spring. Some of the houses were burnt, and others blackened -with smoke, and weeds were already getting possession of the cleared -places.” June 17 they crossed the Big Vermillion, and Big Blue; and -saw their first antelope; while Carson brought in a fine deer. They -were now on the trail of a party of emigrants to Oregon, and found many -articles that they had thrown away. Game began to be abundant; there -were flocks of turkeys in the bottom of the Little Blue; elk were seen -on the hills, and antelope and deer abounded. When they reached the -Pawnee country, many were the tales told of the craft and daring of -these independent people. One morning they had a genuine Indian alarm; -a man who was somewhat behind the party, rode up in haste, shouting, -“Indians! Indians!” He stated that he had seen them, and had counted -twenty-seven. The command was at once halted, and the usual precautions -made for defence, while Carson, mounting one of the hunting horses, set -out to learn the cause of the alarm. “Mounted on a fine horse, without -a saddle, and scouring bareheaded over the prairie, Kit was one of the -finest pictures of a horseman I have ever seen. A short time enabled -him to discover that the Indian war party of twenty-seven consisted of -six elk who had been gazing curiously at our caravan as it passed, and -were now scampering off at full speed. This was our first alarm, and -its excitement broke agreeably on the monotony of the day.” - -The party now crossed over to the Platte River--which Fremont calls the -Nebraska--and encamped on its banks. Two days later, while they were -halted for noon, there came the startling cry, “_Du monde!_”--people. -In a moment all were prepared for defence. Horses were driven in, -hobbled and picketed, and the horsemen were galloping at full speed in -the direction of the new-comers, screaming and yelling with the wildest -excitement. The travellers proved to be a small party, under the charge -of a man named John Lee, which had left Fort Laramie two months before, -endeavoring to transport the furs of the American Fur Company down the -Platte by boat; they had started with the annual flood, but before they -had travelled one hundred and fifty miles found that their waterway -had become too shoal for their boats; they had therefore cached their -possessions, and had started east on foot, carrying on their backs -their provisions, clothing, and a few light furs. It was from among -this party that Fremont engaged Latulippe, who, though on his way to -St. Louis, really had no special desire to go there, and was quite -willing to turn about and face the West again. - -The same day three Cheyennes were met, returning from an unsuccessful -horse-stealing expedition against the Pawnee village. They joined -the party, and for some days afterward travelled in its company. -On the 29th the first buffalo were seen, and on the following day -these animals swarmed “in immense numbers over the plain, where they -had left scarcely a blade of grass standing.” “We had heard from a -distance a dull and confused murmuring, and when we came in view of -their dark masses there was not one among us who did not feel his -heart beat quicker. It was the early part of the day, when the herds -are feeding, and everywhere they were in motion. Here and there a -huge old bull was rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the -air from various parts of the bands, each the scene of some obstinate -fight. Indians and buffalo make the poetry and life of the prairie, -and our camp was full of their exhilaration.” Here first they feasted -on buffalo meat. Fremont says: “At any time of the night might be -seen pieces of the most delicate and choicest meat, roasting _en -appolas_, on sticks around the fire, and the guard were never without -company. With pleasant weather and no enemy to fear, an abundance of -the most excellent meat, and no scarcity of bread or tobacco, they -were enjoying the oasis of a voyageur’s life. Three cows were killed -to-day. Kit Carson had shot one, and was continuing the chase in the -midst of another herd, when his horse fell headlong, but sprang up -and joined the flying band. Though considerably hurt, he had the good -fortune to break no bones; and Maxwell, who was mounted on a fleet -hunter, captured the runaway after a hard chase. He was on the point -of shooting him, to avoid the loss of his bridle (a handsomely mounted -Spanish one), when he found that his horse was able to come up with -him.” - -The next day, July 1, Fremont himself made a chase for buffalo. He -says: “As we were riding quietly along the bank, a grand herd of -buffalo, some seven or eight hundred in number, came crowding up from -the river, where they had been to drink, and commenced crossing the -plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind was favorable; the coolness -of the morning invited to exercise, the ground was apparently good, -and the distance across the prairie (two or three miles) gave us a fine -opportunity to charge them before they could get among the river hills. -It was too fine a prospect for the chase to be lost; and, halting for a -few moments, the hunters were brought up and saddled, and Kit Carson, -Maxwell, and I started together. They were now somewhat less than half -a mile distant, and we rode easily along until within about three -hundred yards, when a sudden agitation, a wavering in the band, and -a galloping to and fro of some which were scattered along the skirts -gave us the intimation that we were discovered. We started together at -a grand gallop, riding steadily abreast of each other, and here the -interest of the chase became so engrossingly intense, that we were -sensible to nothing else. We were now closing upon them rapidly, and -the front of the mass was already in rapid motion for the hills, and in -a few seconds the movement had communicated itself to the whole herd. - -“A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the rear, and every now and -then some of them faced about, and then dashed on after the band a -short distance, and turned and looked again, as if more than half -inclined to stand and fight. In a few moments, however, during which -we had been quickening our pace, the rout was universal, and we were -going over the ground like a hurricane. When at about thirty yards we -gave the usual shout (the hunter’s _pas de charge_), and broke into the -herd. We entered on the side, the mass giving way in every direction -in their heedless course. Many of the bulls, less active and less -fleet than the cows, paying no attention to the ground, and occupied -solely with the hunter, were precipitated to the earth with great -force, rolling over and over with the violence of the shock, and hardly -distinguishable in the dust. We separated on entering, each singling -out his game. - -“My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the West under the name -of Proveau, and, with his eyes flashing, and the foam flying from -his mouth, sprang on after the cow like a tiger. In a few moments he -brought me alongside of her, and, rising in the stirrups, I fired at -the distance of a yard, the ball entering at the termination of the -long hair, and passing near the heart. She fell headlong at the report -of the gun, and, checking my horse, I looked around for my companions. -At a little distance, Kit was on the ground, engaged in tying his -horse to the horns of a cow which he was preparing to cut up. Among -the scattered bands, at some distance below, I caught a glimpse of -Maxwell; and while I was looking, a light wreath of white smoke curled -away from his gun, from which I was too far to hear the report. Nearer, -and between me and the hills, toward which they were directing their -course, was the body of the herd, and, giving my horse the rein, we -dashed after them. A thick cloud of dust hung upon their rear, which -filled my mouth and eyes, and nearly smothered me. In the midst of -this I could see nothing, and the buffalo were not distinguishable -until within thirty feet. They crowded together more densely still as I -came upon them, and rushed along in such a compact body, that I could -not obtain an entrance--the horse almost leaping upon them. In a few -moments the mass divided to the right and left, the horns clattering -with a noise heard above everything else, and my horse darted into -the opening. Five or six bulls charged on us as we dashed along the -line, but were left far behind; and, singling out a cow, I gave her my -fire, but struck too high. She gave a tremendous leap, and scoured on -swifter than before. I reined up my horse, and the band swept on like a -torrent, and left the place quiet and clear. Our chase had led us into -dangerous ground. A prairie-dog village, so thickly settled that there -were three or four holes in every twenty yards square, occupied the -whole bottom for nearly two miles in length. Looking around, I saw only -one of the hunters, nearly out of sight, and the long dark line of our -caravan crawling along, three or four miles distant.” - -Continuing up the Platte River, Fremont reached the junction of the -North and South Platte, on the 2d of July. He now divided his forces, -sending one party up the North Platte to Fort Laramie, and another up -the South Platte to St. Vrain’s fort, and thence across country to a -meeting point at Fort Laramie. This last party he determined to take -charge of himself, taking Mr. Preuss, and four of his best men. The -Cheyennes, whose village was supposed to be on the South Platte, also -decided to accompany him. The party for the North Fork was to be in -charge of Clément Lambert. The separation took place July 5. The party -following up the South Platte took one led horse, and a pack-mule, and -travelled very light. The cook had been ordered to prepare provisions -for this outfit, and they started. When they stopped for noon, however, -they discovered that the provisions they supposed they were carrying, -had been left behind, and they had nothing to eat except the meat of a -poor bull that they had killed during the day. As the trip promised to -be a hard one, Fremont sent two of his men, Preuss and Bernier, across -the country to rejoin those who were travelling up the North branch of -the river. - -Buffalo were abundant, and an incident of the march was a bull fight on -a large scale, which the travellers intercepted: “In the course of the -afternoon, dust rising among the hills at a particular place, attracted -our attention; and riding up, we found a band of eighteen or twenty -buffalo bulls engaged in a desperate fight. Though butting and goring -were bestowed liberally, and without distinction, yet their efforts -were evidently directed against one--a huge gaunt old bull, very lean, -while his adversaries were all fat and in good order. He appeared very -weak and had already received some wounds, and, while we were looking -on, was several times knocked down and badly hurt, and a very few -moments would have put an end to him. Of course we took the side of -the weaker party, and attacked the herd; but they were so blind with -rage, that they fought on, utterly regardless of our presence, although -on foot and on horseback we were firing in open view within twenty -yards of them. But this did not last long. In a very few seconds, we -created a commotion among them. One or two, which were knocked over -by the balls, jumped up and ran off into the hills; and they began to -retreat slowly along a broad ravine to the river, fighting furiously as -they went. By the time they had reached the bottom, we had pretty well -dispersed them, and the old bull hobbled off, to lie down somewhere. -One of his enemies remained on the ground where we had first fired upon -them, and we stopped there for a short time to cut from him some meat -for our supper.” - -At length they reached the post, and were cordially received by Mr. St. -Vrain. - -No provisions could be had here, except a little coffee; but the way -from here to Fort Laramie was through a country supposed to abound -in buffalo, so that there was no danger of starvation. Here Fremont -obtained a couple of horses and three mules, and he also hired a -Spaniard for his trip, and took with him two others who were going to -obtain service on the Laramie River. Crossing various streams, they -passed through a pleasant buffalo country, and crossed Lodgepole Creek, -and Horse Creek, coming to Goshen’s Hole. - -The party struck the North Platte thirteen miles below Fort Laramie, -and continuing up the stream, they first came in view of Fort Platte, a -post belonging to Messrs. Sybille, Adams & Co.; and from there kept on -up to Fort John, or Fort Laramie. Mr. Preuss and his party had already -reached there, but had been much alarmed by the accounts of Indian -hostilities, received from James Bridger and a large party of traders -and trappers that he was guiding eastward. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII - -FREMONT - -II - - -At Fort Laramie, Fremont heard much about the hostilities of the Sioux -and Cheyennes, who, the year before, had had a severe fight with a -party of sixty men, under the command of Mr. Frapp, of St. Louis. -The Indians had lost eight or ten men, and the whites half as many, -including their leader. This left the Indians in a bad frame of mind, -and many of the young men had gone off on a war-path, threatening to -kill emigrants, and, in fact, any whites passing through the country. -One or two parties had already been saved, through the efforts of -Fitzpatrick, of the Broken Hand; but the Indians were clearly in a bad -temper. A large village of Sioux was camped here, and Fremont had many -savage visitors who were very much interested in him and his curious -actions. His astronomical observations and instruments especially -excited their awe and admiration; but the chiefs were careful to -keep the younger men and the women and children from annoying the -astronomer. Here the services of Joseph Bissonette as interpreter -were secured, and the party prepared to start. Before this was done, -however, a delegation of chiefs warned Fremont not to go farther. -He, however, explained to them that he must obey his orders, and was -finally allowed to go at his own risk. - -The party proceeded up the North Platte River, and the first night out -were joined by Bissonette, the interpreter, and by his Indian wife and -a young Sioux sent forward by the chiefs at Fort Laramie, partly as -guide and partly to vouch for the explorers in case they should meet -with hostile Sioux. Fremont imagined, from Bissonette’s long residence -in the country, that he was a guide, and followed his advice as to -the route to be pursued. He afterward learned that Bissonette had -seldom been out of sight of the fort, and his suggestions obliged the -party to travel over a very rough road. They met a party of Indians -who gave very discouraging accounts of the country ahead, saying that -buffalo were scarce, that there was no grass to support the horses, -partly because of the excessive drought, and partly on account of the -grasshoppers, which were unusually numerous. The next day they killed -five or six cows and made dried meat of them. Buffalo continued plenty -and they pushed forward, meeting Indians, who again gave them bad -accounts of the country ahead, so that Bissonette strongly advised -Fremont to turn about. This he declined to do, but told his men what he -had heard and left it to each man to say whether he would go on or turn -back. Fremont had absolute confidence in a number of the best men, and -felt sure that they would stay with him, and to his great satisfaction -all agreed to go forward. Here, however, the interpreter and his Indian -left him, and with them Fremont sent back one of his men, who, from -the effect of an old wound, was unable to travel on foot and his horse -seemed on the point of giving out. The carts were taken to pieces and -cached in some willow brush, while everything that could be spared -was buried in the ground. Pack-saddles were arranged and from here -the animals were to carry their loads, not to haul them. Carson was -appointed guide, for the region they were now entering had long been -his residence. - -Instead of following the emigrant trail, which left the Platte and -crossed over to the Sweetwater, Fremont determined to keep on up the -Platte until he reached the Sweetwater, thinking that in this way he -would find better feed for his animals. The decision proved a wise one. -The day after leaving their cache they found abundant grass as well as -some buffalo, and although when they passed the ford where the Indian -village had crossed the river they found there the skeletons of horses -lying all about, they had no trouble in finding grass for their animals. - -On August 1 they camped near Independence Rock, an isolated granite -rock about six hundred and fifty yards long and forty in height. -“Everywhere within six or eight feet of the ground, where the surface -is sufficiently smooth, and in some places sixty or eighty feet above,” -he relates, “the rock is inscribed with the names of travellers. Many -a name famous in the history of this country, and some well known -to science, are to be found mixed among those of the traders and of -travellers for pleasure and curiosity, and of missionaries among the -savages.” - -It was on August 3 that the party had their first sight of the Wind -River Mountains, distant then about seventy miles, and appearing as a -low, dark, mountainous region. Soon after this they came to the canyon -where the Sweetwater comes out of the mountains, and they followed the -river up for some distance, but finally left it and turned up a ravine -leading to the high prairie above. For some time they had found fuel -very scarce, and had been obliged to burn buffalo chips and sage brush -as they did here. The rain, which from time to time had been falling -upon them down in the valley, now showed as snow on the white peaks -that they had approached, for they were within a short distance of the -South Pass, which was the objective point for the expedition. Soon they -reached the highest point of the Pass, which Fremont estimates at about -seven thousand feet, passed over it and camped on the Little Sandy, a -tributary of Green River. - -The explorer felt a natural longing to push northward from this point, -wishing to cross the heads of the Yellowstone, which he justly supposed -arose among the mountains which lay to the north of him, but the party -were in no condition to make such a journey; the men were more or less -exhausted by the difficulties of past travel, provisions were almost -gone, and game was scarce. He, however, built a stout corral and felled -timber on the margin of a lake not far off, where there was abundant -food for the animals; and, dividing his party, left some of the men and -the weakest animals here, and taking fourteen men with fifteen of the -best mules, set out to penetrate farther into the mountains. Travel -through the mountains was slow and difficult, but attractive; it was -down one steep slope and then up another and then down again. Every -hilltop showed some deep and beautiful valley, often occupied by lakes, -always showing the course of some pure and rapid mountain torrent. -The vegetation was fresh and green, as different as possible from the -parched grass and juiceless wormwood through which they had so long -been travelling. - -At their camp of August 13 the upward way became so steep and rough -that it was determined to leave the animals here and to continue -the journey on foot. The men carried with them nothing but arms and -instruments; and as the day was warm many of them left their coats -in camp. They climbed and climbed, finding, as always happens in the -mountains, that the distances were much greater than they supposed. At -night they were still far from their objective point, and they lay down -without anything to eat. The next morning, however, starting early, and -of course without food, they got among the snow-fields. The elevation -was now great, and several of the men, Fremont among the number, were -taken ill and were unable to proceed. From here Basil Lajeunesse, with -four men, was sent back to the place where the mules had been left, -with instructions to bring on, if possible, four or five animals, with -provisions and blankets. Soon after this Fremont and the remaining -men returned to their camp, and that night the men sent back for the -animals returned with food and bedding. The next day, encouraged -by rest and a couple of hearty meals, they determined once more to -essay the peaks. They rode their animals well up on to the mountains, -and then turning them loose, again began to climb. Their previous -experience stood them in good stead; they climbed slowly, and at last -reached the summit of the mountains, presumably the peak now known -as Fremont’s Peak. From this point the Three Tetons bore north fifty -degrees west, and Fremont’s elevation he gives as thirteen thousand -five hundred and seventy feet. He says, with reasonable pride, “We had -climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky Mountains and looked down upon -the snow a thousand feet below, and, standing where never human foot -had stood before, felt the exultation of first explorers.” - -They returned to the camp, where they had left their animals, and -travelled rapidly eastward, through South Pass, and down on to the -Sweetwater and the Platte. An effort was made to run this river with -the india-rubber boat, which for daring and hardihood really deserved -success. However, although they ran some distance and passed a number -of threatening places, they did not get through. “We pushed off again, -but after making a little distance the force of the current became -too great for the men on shore, and two of them let go the rope. -Lajeunesse, the third man, hung on and was jerked headforemost into the -river from a rock about twelve feet high, and down the boat shot like -an arrow. Basil following us in the rapid current and exerting all his -strength to keep in mid-channel--his head only seen occasionally like -a black spot in the white foam. How far we went I do not exactly know, -but we succeeded in turning the boat into an eddy below. ‘_Cré Dieu_’ -said Basil Lajeunesse, as he arrived immediately after us. ‘_Je crois -bien que j’ai nagé un demi mile._’ (‘Good Lord! I believe I have swum -half a mile.’) He had owed his life to his skill as a swimmer, and I -determined to take him and the two others on board and trust to skill -and fortune to reach the other end in safety. We placed ourselves on -our knees and with the short paddles in our hands, the most skilful -boatman being at the bow, and again we commenced our rapid descent. -We cleared rock after rock and shot past fall after fall, our little -boat seeming to play with the cataract. We became flushed with success -and familiar with the danger, and, yielding to the excitement of the -occasion, broke forth together into a Canadian boat song. Singing, or -rather shouting, we dashed along, and were, I believe, in the midst -of the chorus when the boat struck a concealed rock immediately at -the foot of a fall which whirled her over in an instant. Three of my -men could not swim and my first feeling was to assist them and save -some of our effects; but a sharp concussion or two convinced me that -I had not yet saved myself. A few strokes brought me into an eddy, -and I landed on a pile of rocks on the left side. Looking around I -saw that Mr. Preuss had gained the shore on the same side, about -twenty yards below, and a little climbing and swimming soon brought -him to my side. On the opposite side, against the wall, lay the boat -bottom up, and Lambert was in the act of saving Descoteaux, whom he -had grasped by the hair, and who could not swim. ‘_Lache pas_,’ said -he, as I afterward learned, ‘_lache pas, cher frère_.’ (‘Don’t let -go; don’t let go, dear brother.’) ‘_Crains pas_,’ was the reply, ‘_Je -m’en vais mourir avant que de te lâcher_.’ (‘Don’t fear, I will die -before I let you go.’) Such was the reply of courage and generosity in -this danger. For a hundred yards below the current was covered with -floating books and boxes, bales of blankets and scattered articles -of clothing; and so strong and boiling was the stream that even our -heavy instruments--which were all in cases--kept on the surface, and -the sextant, circle and the long black box of the telescope were in -view at once. For a moment I felt somewhat disheartened. All our -books--almost every record of the journey--our journals and registers -of astronomical and barometrical observations--had been lost in a -moment. But it was no time to indulge in regrets, and I immediately set -about endeavoring to save something from the wreck. Making ourselves -understood as well as possible by signs--for nothing could be heard in -the roar of the waters--we commenced our operations. Of everything on -board the only article that had been saved was my double-barrelled gun, -which Descoteaux had caught and clung to with drowning tenacity. The -men continued down the river on the left bank. Mr. Preuss and myself -descended on the side we were on, and Lajeunesse, with a paddle in his -hand, jumped on the boat alone and continued down the cañon. She was -now light and cleared every bad place with much less difficulty. In a -short time he was joined by Lambert, and the search was continued for -about a mile and a half, which was as far as the boat could proceed in -the pass. - -“Here the walls were about five hundred feet high, and the fragments of -rock from above had choked the river into a hollow pass but one or two -feet above the surface. Through this and the interstices of the rock -the water found its way. Favored beyond our expectations, all of our -registers had been recovered with the exception of one of my journals, -which contained the notes and incidents of travel, and topographical -descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical observations, -principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and our barometrical -register west of Laramie. Fortunately, our other journals contained -duplicates of the most important barometrical observations which had -been taken in the mountains. These, with a few scattered notes were -all that had been preserved of our meteorological observations. In -addition to these we saved the circle, and these, with a few blankets, -constituted everything that had been rescued from the waters.” - -Having gathered up the things which they left on the shore, the members -of the party, half naked, started on foot for the camp below where the -other men had been sent. They reached there that night and found the -much-needed food and clothing. - -After passing Fort Laramie, Fremont made another effort to navigate the -Platte River, trying to descend it in a bull boat; but this descent, -instead of being a trip by water, resolved itself into dragging -the vessel over the sands and finally abandoning it. On the 22d of -September, Fremont reached the village of the Grand Pawnees, about -thirty miles above the mouth of the Loup fork, on the Platte River, and -on October 1 he found himself at the settlements on the Missouri River. -From here the river was descended in a boat and St. Louis was reached -October 17. - -[Illustration: AN OTO COUNCIL. - -From James’s _An Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains by -Major Stephen H. Long_.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII - -FREMONT - -III - - -Fremont’s second trip was on a scale somewhat more extensive than his -first. His party consisted of thirty-two regular engagees, besides a -negro, and two Delaware Indians, who were hired to act as hunters. -The route was up the Kansas valley, across the divide, to the head of -the Arkansas, and then through passes in the mountains--if any could -be found--at the source of this river. The party left “the little -town of Kansas”--now Kansas City--the last of May, and proceeded -without special adventure until the afternoon of June 6, when a little -confusion was caused by the sudden arrival of Maxwell--one of the -hunters of the expedition of 1842--just in advance of a party of Osage -Indians. Maxwell had gone back to look for a lost horse, and the Osages -had promptly chased him into camp, a distance of nine miles. The Osages -drove off a number of the best horses, but a hard chase of seven or -eight miles recovered them all. - -At this season of the year the streams were up, and some difficulty was -met with in crossing them. Game was scarce, for they were travelling -through a region frequently traversed by trapping and hunting parties -of Indians, and much pursuit had made the game watchful and wild. -Travel was so hard and slow, largely owing to rain and mud, that when -he reached Big Timber, Fremont determined to divide his party, leaving -Fitzpatrick--he of the Broken Hand--with twenty-five men in charge of -the provisions and heavier baggage of the camp; while Fremont, more -lightly loaded, but taking a wagon and the howitzer which had been -furnished by the United States arsenal at St. Louis, should proceed -ahead of the main party. - -On June 19 they crossed the Pawnee road to the Arkansas, and suddenly -came upon the first buffalo, half a dozen bulls, which formed the -vanguard of immense herds, among which they journeyed for many days -afterward. The 4th of July found them at St. Vrain’s fort, on the South -Platte. - -Their live stock was now much run down, and their stock of provisions -fairly exhausted; but they found the fort little better off than -themselves, and quite without surplus animals. Fremont, therefore, -authorized Maxwell, who was now about to separate from them and to -go on to Taos, to purchase there ten or twelve mules, pack them with -provisions, and meet him at the mouth of the Fontaine qui bouit, on the -Arkansas River. - -On the 6th of July, ten miles above St. Vrain’s fort, the party -passed Fort Lancaster, the trading-post of Mr. Lupton. He had already -established a farm on the prairie, certainly one of the very earliest -in the Trans-Missouri country. Horses, cattle, and hogs ranged on the -prairie; and there was poultry, and what was left of a flourishing -garden, which had just been ruined by high water. - -The next day a large camp--one hundred and sixty lodges--of Arapahoes -was passed. They had many horses and seemed prosperous. - -They were now about seven thousand five hundred feet above the -sea-level and travelling along prairies from which the waters drained -into the Arkansas, Platte, and Kansas rivers. Pike’s Peak was in sight, -and farther to the south the Spanish Peaks. - -The next day they came upon the wagon-road to the settlements on the -Arkansas River, and in the afternoon camped on the Fontaine qui bouit, -which they followed down, passing the camp of a hunter named Maurice, -who had been catching buffalo calves, a number of which were seen among -the cattle near his lodge. Here, too, were a party of mountaineers, -among whom were several Connecticut men belonging to Wyeth’s party. -On the afternoon of July 14 they camped near a pueblo, or town, where -were settled a number of mountaineers who had married Spanish women, -and had formed a farming settlement here. Fremont hoped that he might -have obtained some provisions from these people, but as trade with the -Spanish settlements was forbidden he got nothing except milk, of which -they had an abundance. Fremont learned here that the Spanish Utes were -on the war-path and that there had been a popular tumult among the -civilized Indians near Taos, and so felt some natural anxiety about -the safety of Maxwell. By great good luck, however, he met here Carson, -whom he engaged once more, and sent him off to Charles Bent, down the -Arkansas River, to buy mules at Bent’s fort--Fort William. Usually -there was a large stock of animals here, for the Indians, returning -from their raids into Mexico, often traded a part of their plunder for -goods. - -The party now returned to St. Vrain’s fort, which they reached on the -23d. Here Fitzpatrick and his party were found safe and well, and also -Carson, who had brought with him ten good mules with the necessary -pack animals. The provisions which Fitzpatrick had brought and over -which he had watched with great care, were very welcome to the hungry -explorers. At this post the Delaware Indians determined to return to -their home. Fremont made up his mind that he would try the pass through -which the Câche-à-la-Poudre flowed, and he again divided the party, -sending Fitzpatrick across the plains to the mouth of the Laramie -River, to follow the usual emigrant trail and to meet him at Fort Hall. -Fremont with thirteen men was to take the longer road about. He started -up the Câche-à-la-Poudre, marched westward through the Medicine Bow -Mountains to the North Platte River, which he crossed. The way was not -exceptionally difficult except for the fact that it ran through large -and tough bushes of sage brush, which made the hauling hard. Buffalo -were abundant and food was plenty. Indeed, so many were killed that -they spent a day or two in camp drying meat as provision for the -future. While they were occupied at this, they were charged by about -seventy mounted Indians, but these were seen by the horse guard, the -horses driven into camp and the party took up a defensive position -in a grove of timber, so that the Indians, just before the howitzer -was fired at them, halted and explained that they had taken the camp -for one of hostile Indians. This war-party was one of Arapahoes and -Cheyennes, returning unsuccessful from a journey against their enemies, -the Shoshoni. They had lost several men and were not in a very pleasant -frame of mind. - -From here, turning south, the party struck across to the Sweetwater -River and at length reached the trail to the Oregon, being thus on the -same ground that they had traversed the previous year. Green River, -then called Prairie-Hen River, was reached August 16, and something is -said of the impressions among the residents in the country about the -lower course of the Colorado. Says Fremont: “From many descriptions -of trappers it is probable that in its foaming course among its lofty -precipices it presents many scenes of wild grandeur; and though -offering many temptations, and often discussed, no trappers have been -found bold enough to undertake a voyage which has so certain a prospect -of a fatal termination. The Indians have strange stories of beautiful -valleys abounding with beaver shut up among inaccessible walls of rock -in the lower course of the river, and to which the neighboring Indians, -in their occasional wars with the Spaniards and among themselves, -drive their herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, leaving them to -pasture in perfect security.” Fremont was ignorant that nearly eighteen -years before Ashley had descended the Green River in a boat, and had -inscribed his name and a date on the rock which was seen there by Major -J. W. Powell more than forty years later. But Ashley’s expedition did -not get much farther than the mouth of Ashley River, where it was -wrecked and the trip abandoned. - -Not long after crossing Green River they passed quite near Bridger’s -fort, and then sent Carson on to Fort Hall to secure provisions, while -Fremont with his party went on to Bear River. Following down this -stream they met a party of emigrants, saw more or less game in the way -of antelope and elk, and, on approaching the Shoshoni village, were -charged by the Indians, who supposed the white men a party of Sioux, -because they carried a flag regarded by these people as an emblem of -hostility, being usually carried by the Sioux, and the neighboring -mountain Indians when they came against the Shoshoni to war. The true -character of Fremont’s party was recognized by the Indians before -they got near them and they were kindly received in the village and -obtained provisions there. Further down the stream the celebrated -Beer Springs, “which, on account of the effervescing gas and acid -taste, have received their name from the voyageurs and trappers of the -country, who, in the midst of their rude and hard lives, are fond of -finding some fancied resemblance to the luxuries they rarely have the -fortune to enjoy.” The water of some of these springs is hot, and has -a pungent and disagreeable metallic taste leaving a burning effect on -the tongue. The Beer, or Soda Springs, are of the same character as the -boiling springs at the foot of Pike’s Peak, but those are not hot. - -It was in the neighborhood of Bear River that Fremont and his party -first came in contact with the Indians which he calls Root Diggers, and -which in those old times were spoken of as Digger Indians. They are -various tribes and bands of Pah-utes, occupying the desert country of -the Rocky Mountains, whose subsistence is derived chiefly from roots -and seeds, and from such small animals as they capture. - -The country which Fremont was crossing had formerly abounded in game, -but the buffalo had all disappeared. Even as early as this (1843), -attention had been called to the disappearance of the buffalo, and -Fremont says: “The extraordinary rapidity with which the buffalo is -disappearing from our territories will not appear surprising when we -remember the great scale on which their destruction is yearly carried -on. With inconsiderable exceptions, the business of the American -trading-posts is carried on in their skins; every year the Indian -villages make new lodges for which the skin of the buffalo furnishes -the material; and in that portion of the country where they are still -found, the Indians derive their entire support from them and slaughter -them with a thoughtless and abominable extravagance. Like the Indians -themselves, they have been a characteristic of the Great West; and as, -like them, they are visibly diminishing, it will be interesting to -throw a glance backward through the last twenty years and give some -account of their former distribution through the country and the limit -of their western range. - -“The information is derived principally from Mr. Fitzpatrick, supported -by my own personal knowledge and acquaintance with the country. Our -knowledge does not go farther back than the spring of 1824, at which -time the buffalo were spread in immense numbers over the Green River -and Bear River valleys, and through all the country lying between the -Colorado, or Green River, of the Gulf of California, and Lewis’ fork of -the Columbia River; the meridian of Fort Hall then forming the western -limit of their range. The buffalo then remained for many years in that -country and frequently moved down the valley of the Columbia on both -sides of the river as far as the _Fishing Falls_. Below this point they -never descended in any numbers. About the year 1834 or 1835 they began -to diminish very rapidly and continued to decrease until 1838 or 1840, -when, with the country we have just described, they entirely abandoned -all the waters of the Pacific north of Lewis’ fork of the Columbia. -At that time the Flathead Indians were in the habit of finding their -buffalo on the heads of Salmon River, and other streams of the -Columbia; but now they never meet with them farther west than the three -forks of the Missouri or the plains of the Yellowstone River. - -“In the course of our journey it will be remembered that the buffalo -have not so entirely abandoned the waters of the Pacific, in the Rocky -Mountain region South of the Sweetwater, as in the country North of -the Great Pass. This partial distribution can only be accounted for in -the great pastoral beauty of that country, which bears marks of having -long been one of their favorite haunts, and by the fact that the white -hunters have more frequented the Northern than the Southern region--it -being North of the South Pass that the hunters, trappers and traders -have had their rendezvous for many years past; and from that section -also the greater portion of the beaver and rich furs were taken, -although always the most dangerous as well as the most profitable -hunting ground. - -“In that region lying between the Green or Colorado River and the head -waters of the Rio del Norte, over the _Yampah_, _Kooyah_, _White_, -and _Grand_ rivers--all of which are the waters of the Colorado--the -buffalo never extended so far to the westward as they did on the waters -of the Columbia; and only in one or two instances have they been known -to descend as far west as the mouth of the White River. In travelling -through the country west of the Rocky Mountains, observations readily -led me to the impression that the buffalo had, for the first time, -crossed that range to the waters of the Pacific only a few years prior -to the period we are considering and in this opinion I am sustained by -Mr. Fitzpatrick and the older trappers in that country. In the region -West of the Rocky Mountains we never meet with any of the ancient -vestiges which throughout all the country lying upon their Eastern -waters are found in the _great highways_, continuous for hundreds of -miles, always several inches and sometimes several feet in depth which -the buffalo have made in crossing from one river to another or in -traversing the mountain ranges. The Snake Indians, more particularly -those low down upon Lewis’ fork, have always been very grateful to the -American trappers for the great kindness (as they frequently expressed -it) which they did to them in driving the buffalo so low down the -Columbia River. - -“The extraordinary abundance of the buffalo on the east side of the -Rocky Mountains and their extraordinary diminution will be made clearly -evident from the following statement: At any time between the years -1824 and 1836 a traveller might start from any given point South or -North in the Rocky Mountain range, journeying by the most direct route -to the Missouri River, and, during the whole distance, his road would -be always among large bands of buffalo, which would never be out of his -view until he arrived almost within sight of the abodes of civilization. - -“At this time the buffalo occupy but a very limited space, principally -along the Eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, sometimes extending at -their Southern extremity to a considerable distance into the plains -between the Platte and Arkansas Rivers and along the Eastern frontier -of New Mexico as far South as Texas. - -“The following statement, which I owe to the kindness of Mr. Sanford, -a partner in the American Fur Company, will further illustrate this -subject by extensive knowledge acquired during several years of travel -through the region inhabited by the buffalo: - -“‘The total amount of robes annually traded by ourselves and others -will not be found to differ much from the following statement: - - ROBES. - American Fur Company 70,000 - Hudson Bay Company 10,000 - All other companies, probably 10,000 - ------ - Making a total of 90,000 - -as an average annual return for the last eight or ten years. - -“‘In the Northwest, the Hudson’s Bay Company purchased from the Indians -but a very small number--their only market being Canada, to which the -cost of transportation nearly equals the produce of the furs; and it -is only within a very recent period that they have received buffalo -robes in trade; and out of the great number of buffalo annually killed -throughout the extensive regions inhabited by the Camanches and other -kindred tribes, no robes whatever are furnished for trade. During only -four months of the year (from November until March) the skins are -good for dressing; those obtained in the remaining eight months being -valueless to traders, and the hides of bulls are never taken off or -dressed as robes at any season. Probably not more than one-third of the -skins are taken from the animals killed, even when they are in good -season, the labor of preparing and dressing the robes being very great, -and it is seldom that a lodge trades more than twenty skins in a year. -It is during the summer months, and in the early part of autumn that -the greatest number of buffalo are killed, and yet at this time a skin -is never taken for the purpose of trade.’...” - -Fremont’s party at this time was on short allowance of food. Word had -been sent to Carson to bring from Fort Hall a pack animal loaded with -provisions, for there was no game in the country and it was hard to -purchase food of any kind from the Indians. - -On September 3 Carson rode into camp with provisions sufficient for a -few days. The party kept on down Bear River, and on the 6th from the -top of a hill saw the Great Salt Lake. - -Up to this time this lake had been seen by comparatively few white -people; in fact, only by trappers who were wintering through the -country in search of beaver and who cared for geography only so far -as it helped them on their way. No white man’s boat had ever floated -on its dense waters, its islands had never been visited, and no one -had made a survey of its shores or even passed all around it. Among -trappers it was generally believed that while the lake had no visible -outlet there was somewhere in it a tremendous whirlpool through which -its waters flowed out by a subterranean channel to the ocean. - -All these facts and beliefs made Fremont very anxious to visit the lake -and survey it; and having with him a rubber boat he had high hopes -of what he might accomplish. However, since the party was on short -allowance, the provisions which Carson had brought with him being now -exhausted, he sent back to Fort Hall seven of his extra men under the -charge of François Lajeunesse. The party was now reduced to eight, -five of whom were to make the first voyage of discovery on the Great -Salt Lake, while three should remain on the shore as camp keepers. It -was only now discovered that the boat was badly put together, and when -put in the water and loaded it leaked air in rather a serious way, so -that the constant use of the bellows was needed to keep it afloat. -Fortunately they had good weather at starting, for the day was very -calm; and they reached one of the islands to find the rocks along the -water’s edge encrusted with salt, and a windrow from ten to twenty -feet in breadth, consisting of the larvae of some small insect which -inhabited the water, and had been washed up on the shore. These worms, -so called, are the common food of certain tribes of Indians living in -the neighborhood of these salt or alkaline lakes. There was little on -the island to attract explorers, and in view of the frail nature of -their craft, and the danger of storms, they did not stay long, but -re-embarking reached the shore at a point quite distant from their -camp. Food continued scarce and a day or two later they killed a horse -for food. - -At Fort Hall a few horses and oxen were purchased, the latter for -food, and here Fremont sent back eleven of his men, among them Basil -Lajeunesse, a good man whom Fremont was sorry to lose. Leaving Fort -Hall September 22 the journey was continued down Snake River. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX - -FREMONT - -IV - - -Keeping on down Snake River, sometimes in its valley, sometimes, to -avoid bad travelling, marching back on the hills, the party went on. -Before long the Grand Rond was passed; and soon after this they entered -the timber, through a part of which they were obliged to cut their way. - -When the missionary station, occupied by Dr. Whitman, was reached, it -was found that he was absent on a visit to the Dalles of the Columbia; -but here were seen a party of emigrants--men, women, and children--all -in good health, and living largely on potatoes, which even then were -raised here of good quality and in some quantity. - -All the trading-posts in the Oregon country were still controlled -by the Hudson’s Bay people, but all received Fremont cordially, and -helped him on his way. They crossed John Day’s river, the Des Chutes, -called by Fremont Rivière aux Chutes. At the Dalles was a comfortable -settlement: “Two good-looking wooden dwelling houses, and a large -school house, with stables, barn and garden, and large cleared fields -between the houses and the river bank, on which were scattered the -wooden huts of an Indian village.” Here the party again divided, -Fremont leaving a part of his people at the Dalles with Carson, while -he and Mr. Preuss went on down the river by canoe. - -The new mode of travel seemed very delightful to men who had been for -months journeying on foot and on horseback over a rough country. It was -very pleasant to float along down the broad stream, camping from time -to time to build their fires, and cook the fat salmon, and potatoes and -coffee, which they had, with bread and sugar--luxuries to which they -had long been strangers. It was a motley group, but a contented one. -Three Indians assisted in paddling the canoe, while the commander of -the expedition, the German, Preuss, the Frenchman, Bernier, and the -colored man, Jacob, floated onward to the sea. Fremont’s eagerness to -reach Fort Vancouver led him to travel during a part of each night; and -for the greater part of the voyage they had beautiful weather, made -good progress, and enjoyed the wonderful scenery. They were now in -sight of the splendid Cascade range, and of the towering peaks of Mount -Hood, St. Helens, and, later, Mount Rainier. As they passed on down the -river the hills grew lower, and presently, one night, they heard the -noise of a sawmill at work on the bank, and camped not far from Fort -Vancouver. Here, Dr. McLaughlin, the executive officer of the Hudson’s -Bay Company for the territory West of the Rocky Mountains, received the -travellers with that courtesy and hospitality for which he was so well -known, and concerning which all those who passed through the region in -early days spoke with so much gratitude. - -About the fort were many American emigrants, some of them in a more or -less destitute condition, but all of them supplied with the necessaries -of life by the kindly Hudson’s Bay officer, who allowed them to pay for -what they had by their labor. - -From Dr. McLaughlin Fremont procured three months’ provisions, and -through his kindness was enabled also to secure men and boats to -transport these provisions up the river to the camp of his main party -at the Dalles. The return journey was slow with the laden boats, for -they were obliged to cordelle the Mackinaw along the shore, being -unable to overcome the swift water by their oars. - -From the Dalles it was Fremont’s purpose to go South, on the West -side of the Cascade range, as far as Klamath Lake--by Fremont written -Tlamath Lake; thence south to the reputed Buenaventura River, which -is said to empty into San Francisco Bay; thence across the desert to -the Rocky Mountains, opposite the headwaters of the Arkansas River, -and there, crossing the mountains, to follow down the Arkansas to -Bent’s Fort, and so back to St. Louis. Much of this region had never -been passed over by a surveyor. To make this trip at the beginning of -winter, the party consisted of twenty-five men, with one hundred and -four mules and horses, and a few California cattle, to be driven along -as food for the company. - -After leaving the Dalles, Fremont’s whole party were occupied in making -the necessary preparations for the start into this new region. Horses -were purchased, provisions accumulated, all unnecessary baggage cut -out and left behind, and the little wagon which had hitherto carried -the instruments given to the mission. The howitzer, however, was to be -taken with them. Here a Chinook Indian, nineteen years old, who had -expressed a desire to see the whites, was permitted to join the party. - -They started November 25 and followed along the plateau on the east -flanks of the Cascade range, and so on the western side of the Fall -River. The weather was cold and the streams frozen along the edges, -while snow lay on the ground. When the sky cleared superb views were -had of Mounts St. Helens, Hood, Rainier, Jefferson and other mountains -of what is now called the Presidential range. The weather grew -colder and the road more rough, it being over volcanic plains, often -interrupted by deep gulches or stream valleys. They were now passing -through the country of the Nez Percé, the Cayuse, and certain tribes -of Diggers, and from their Indian guides heard more or less alarming -accounts of the fierceness and treachery of the Indians before them. -December 10 they reached Klamath Lake and saw smoke arising from -different points about it. Here, for the purpose of encouraging their -guides, who evidently felt very shaky about the local Indians, and -alarming the latter, Fremont caused the howitzer to be fired with a -shell, and tells that “the bursting of the shell at a distance, which -was something like a second fire of the gun, amazed and bewildered them -with delight. It inspired them (the guides) with triumphant feelings, -but on the camps at a distance the effect was different, for the smokes -in the lake and on the shores immediately disappeared.” - -The next day Fremont set out to look up the Indians, and before long -came near to a village from which two people were seen advancing to -meet them. - -“We were surprised, on riding up, to find one of them a woman, having -never before known a squaw to take any part in the business of war. -They were the village chief and his wife, who, in excitement and alarm -at the unusual event and appearance, had come out to meet their fate -together. The chief was a very prepossessing Indian, with very handsome -features, and a singularly soft and agreeable voice--so remarkable as -to attract general notice. - -“The huts were grouped together on the bank of the river, which, from -being spread out in a shallow marsh at the upper end of the lake, was -collected here into a single stream. They were large, round huts, -perhaps twenty feet in diameter, with rounded tops, on which was the -door by which they descended into the interior. Within, they were -supported by posts and beams. - -“Almost like plants these people seemed to have adapted themselves to -the soil, and to be growing on what the immediate locality afforded. -Their only subsistence at this time appeared to be a small fish, great -quantities of which, that had been smoked and dried, were suspended on -strings about the lodge. Heaps of straw were lying around, and their -residence in the midst of grass and rushes had taught them a peculiar -skill in converting this material to useful purposes. Their shoes were -made of straw or grass, which seemed well adapted for a snowy country, -and the women wore on their heads a closely woven basket, which made a -very good cap. Among other things were parti-colored mats about four -feet square, which we purchased to lay on the snow under our blankets -and to use for table-cloths. - -“Numbers of singular-looking dogs, resembling wolves, were sitting on -the tops of the huts, and of these we purchased a young one, which, -after its birthplace, was named Tlamath. The language spoken by these -Indians is different from that of the Shoshone and Columbia River -tribes, and otherwise than by signs they cannot understand each other. -They made us comprehend that they were at war with the people who lived -to the southward and to the eastward, but I could obtain from them no -certain information. The river on which they live enters the Cascade -Mountains on the western side of the lake, and breaks through them by -a passage impracticable for travellers, but over the mountains to the -northward are passes which present no other obstacle than in the almost -impenetrable forests. Unlike any Indians we had previously seen these -wore shells in their noses. We returned to our camp, after remaining -here an hour or two, accompanied by a number of Indians.” - -Like many other persons since that time, Fremont was much impressed -by the attractions of Klamath Lake, and he stopped here a short time -to rest his animals. From this point on there were no maps, and -practically nothing could be learned of the country from the Indians, -although they drew rough maps in the effort to direct the explorers. -The road before them was hard and difficult, much of it through heavy -forest, made hard to travel by fallen trees, and by snow, which was -constantly growing deeper. After two or three very laborious and most -uncertain days, they came suddenly to the edge of a precipice, from -which they could look over into a green and sunshiny valley below, -partly filled by a great lake, which, from its appearance, Fremont -called Summer Lake. It stands so on the map to-day. The descent from -the mountain was a difficult one, but at last a way was found. It was -impossible, however, to reach the shores of the lake, on account of -the deep mud. However, streams of good water were passed at sufficient -intervals. They had now left the forest behind them, and their fuel -consisted of willow twigs and sage brush. A little farther along -another lake was approached, called Lake Abert, after Colonel Abert, -then the Chief of Engineers. The water of this lake, however, was very -bad. Everywhere about this lake were signs of Digger Indians, and about -this time they came upon a broad trail over which horses had passed. -Most of the country was sterile, and as they crossed the mountains, -from the watershed of these lakes, they found snow a foot deep. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX - -FREMONT - -V - - -New Year’s Day found them travelling through the desert, over a rough, -sandy road. The next day they reached a field of hot springs, the vapor -from which was visible a long way off. Fremont was growing uneasy. He -had very little idea where he was. There appeared to be no game in the -country, except hares, though occasional signs were seen of sheep and -antelope. His animals had begun to die, and he felt the necessity of -proceeding with great caution. Because of the uncertainty of water for -his animals, he formed the plan of exploring the country in advance -each day, and leaving the main party behind. On January 10, a beautiful -lake, some twenty miles broad, was seen from the top of a ridge, and -they proceeded toward it. On the way herds of mountain-sheep were seen -on the hills. When they came on a little stream about a mile from the -margin of the lake, they found a broad Indian trail following the -shores of the lake to the southward. This was followed for a short -distance, and then ascended a precipice, against which the water dashed -below, and it was very difficult to get the howitzer along this trail. -Mountain-sheep in numbers, and ducks, and some fish were seen, and the -party passed the pyramid which rises out of the lake and gives it its -name. The last of the cattle driven from the Dalles was killed here -for food. On January 15 a few Indians made their appearance about the -camp, and one of them was persuaded to come into it. It was difficult -to communicate with him; but from what he said, it was inferred that at -the end of the lake was a river, which subsequent investigation showed -ran into the lake, which has no outlet. Here, to the great delight of -the white men, the Indians brought in fish to trade. Fremont calls them -salmon trout, and says that they were from two to four feet in length. -They appeared to form the chief food of these Indians, who, Fremont -says, hold the fishery in exclusive possession, and who are different -from the “Digger” Indians so frequently spoken of in crossing the -desert. It appeared that these Indians were in communication either -with the whites or with other Indians knowing the whites, for they -possessed articles of civilized manufacture. - -The party now followed up the stream running into Pyramid Lake, -travelling along toward the Sierra Nevada Mountains. They were on an -Indian trail, and hoped soon to find the Buenaventura River, for which -they had been looking. Columns of smoke rising over the country at -intervals made them sure that the Indians were notifying each other -that strangers had come into the country. Their animals were growing -thin and weak; their feet were much worn away by the rocks, and many -of them were lame. Fremont decided, therefore, that he must abandon his -course to the eastward and must cross the mountains into the valley of -the Sacramento River as soon as possible. - -Keeping on southward along the mountains, they crossed streams issuing -from them which tempted them to try for a pass; but the heavy snows -which appeared to lie on the mountains induced the leader to keep on -farther southward. January 24 an Indian came into the camp and offered -the strangers a little bag of pine nuts, which they purchased from -him. They also gave him some presents; and as nearly as they could -understand his signs he promised to conduct them to the opening of a -pass of which he knew. From here on they constantly saw Indians, all -of whom traded pine nuts to them, and all were armed with bows and -stone-pointed arrows. The level of the country appeared to be growing -higher, and the snow grew deeper. They put one of their guides on a -horse, but he was evidently unacquainted with the animal, and did not -even know how to guide it. Soon they entered the range, and having left -the desert country, found a country well timbered, and which appeared -to produce considerable game. They climbed to the head of the stream, -passed over a ridge, and saw from the summit a sunlit country where -there was evidently grass. Here the Indians were wearing snow-shoes, -and accompanied the party, running around them, and swiftly and easily -travelling over the snow. They appeared to have no idea of the power -of fire-arms, and thought themselves perfectly safe so long as they -kept out of arm’s reach. - -Descending on the head of this next stream, Fremont learned, before -he had gone very far, that this was merely the head of another stream -running eastward into the Great Basin, and that they still had to cross -a great ridge before they could reach Pacific waters. - -The Indians here had heard of a party of twelve white men who, two -years before, had ascended the river and crossed to the other side; -but this was done when it was summer-time and there was little or no -snow to oppose the passage; and at present the Indians declared it -could not be done. Nevertheless, they agreed to furnish a guide to -take the whites as far as possible. Provisions were now getting low, -and consisted chiefly of pease, a little flour, some coffee, and a -quantity of sugar. It was on this day, January 29, that the howitzer, -which had been dragged so far, was finally abandoned. On January 31 -they continued to climb the mountains among the snow. Indians kept -visiting them in greater and greater numbers, and from all were heard -most discouraging accounts of the possibility of crossing the range. -An old man told them that if they could break through the snow, at the -end of three days they would come upon grass, which would be about six -inches high; and here Fremont decided to attempt the passage and to -try to reach Sutter’s ranch on the Sacramento. Preparations were made, -therefore, to face the cold of the heights, and clothing was repaired -and put in order, and a new guide was engaged, who was also fitted -out with special reference to the hardships likely to be met with. -A dog that had been with them for some little time was killed, and -this, with a few rabbits purchased from the Indians, gave the party a -strengthening meal. - -When they started, the snow soon became so deep that it was absolutely -necessary that a road should be broken for the animals. This was done -in systematic fashion, and for several days they advanced by very short -marches, but without meeting any obstacles greater than the depth of -the snow. Sometimes the lack of feed at the end of the day’s march -would render it necessary to send back the animals to feed at some -point on the trail just passed over, where there was good pasture. -Two or three days of this hard work was very discouraging. However, -Fremont’s energy never faltered. He and Carson and Fitzpatrick, on -snow-shoes, went ahead, reconnoitring in all directions and trying to -pick out a good road, and on February 6 they reached a peak from which -they saw the valley of the Sacramento; and Carson recognized various -natural features which he had not seen for fifteen years. - -The difficulties of travel for the horses was so great, and the -hillsides so steep, that many of the animals found the greatest -difficulty in getting along themselves and could not carry their -loads. Sledges were made, therefore, on which the men drew the baggage -over the snow; but of course this made progress very slow indeed. The -hunters went out to look for game, but found none. - -It was on February 20 that they camped with the animals that were left, -and with all the material of the camp, on the summit of a pass in the -dividing ridge, about a thousand miles from the Dalles, whence they had -started. The prospects of the descent were not promising. Before them -were rough mountains, among which lay deep fields of snow; but shortly -after they started on their way, they heard the roll of thunder, and -looking toward the valley saw a thunder-storm in progress. As the sky -cleared, they could see a shining line of water leading toward another -broader and larger sheet; and in these they recognized the Sacramento -River and the bay of San Francisco. Yet so frequent had been their -disappointments during their wanderings through the rough mountains -that they hardly dared to believe that they were at last to penetrate -the warm, pleasing country where they should be free from the hardships -and exposure of the last few months. This night they killed a mule for -food, and again the next night. February 23 was their hardest day, for -they were forced to travel along steep and slippery mountainsides, -where moisture, snow, and ice, together with the tough evergreens of -the mountain, made walking difficult and wearisome; but on this night -a storm showered upon them rain and not snow. The men, exhausted by -the labor of travel and by the lack of food, were beginning to lose -strength and courage. - -However, now they were constantly descending. The thermometer was just -about freezing, and they had left the Sierras behind. The green grass -was beginning to make its appearance. The river was descending rapidly, -and growing larger. Soon they came to deciduous trees and a warmer -atmosphere. The country was covered with growing plants, and the voices -of singing birds were heard in the summer air. They were still killing -the horses for food. - -Fremont now believed that the main difficulties of the road were over, -and leaving Fitzpatrick to follow slowly with the main camp, he started -ahead with a party of eight, intending to reach Mr. Sutter’s house -as soon as possible, and to return with provisions and fresh animals -for the party. Fitzpatrick was left in command of the others, with -instructions to bring on the animals slowly, for all were very weak. - -But they were not yet out of their troubles. For much of the way the -river ran through narrow canyons, and the travellers were obliged -to clamber along the mountain side, over a road rough and almost -impassable for their enfeebled live-stock. However, at their camps they -found grass. As they went on they were obliged to leave their animals -behind, and Fremont left his favorite horse, Proveau, which could no -longer keep up. One of the men started back to bring the horse, but did -not return until the second day, when it was apparent that his mind -was deranged. This day Mr. Preuss, who had gone ahead, did not appear -at night, and his absence caused much anxiety. The next day they met -some Indians, and kept on down the river, still continuing their search -for the lost man. They came upon tracks of Indians, little piles of -mussel shells and old fires where they had cooked. On March 4 they came -on an Indian village, where they found houses, and near each one a -store-house of acorns. In the houses were basketfuls of roasted acorns, -and although the Indians had fled, the travellers supplied themselves -with this food, leaving various small articles in payment. In a -village not far below three Indian women were captured. They were much -frightened, but, encouraged by good treatment, offered food. This night -Mr. Preuss came in, very weak from starvation, but not otherwise in bad -condition. He had subsisted on roots, ants, frogs, and had received -some acorns from Indians whom he met. - -At the next village Indians were found wearing shirts of civilized -manufacture, and then they came to another and larger village, where -the people were dressed more or less in European clothing. Here was -a man who could speak Spanish, a vaquero in the service of Captain -Sutter, whose fort was but a short distance away. At the fort Fremont -was met by Captain Sutter, who gave him a cordial reception, and -a night of enjoyment of all the luxuries that he had so long been -without. The next day, with fresh horses and provisions, Fremont -hurried back to meet Fitzpatrick, and brought in the rest of the party. -The second division had had a hard time, having lost many animals; -so that of the sixty-seven horses and mules with which they started -to cross the Sierras, only thirty-three reached the valley of the -Sacramento. The beef, the bread, and the salmon, which Fremont brought, -put heart into the starving men, and before long they had reached a -permanent camp not far from Sutter’s fort. - -Captain Sutter had come to California from the western part of -Missouri in 1838-39, and had settled in the Sacramento valley on a -large grant of land received from the Mexican Government. Though he -had at first had some trouble with the Indians, he succeeded, by -his judicious treatment, in converting them into a peaceable and -industrious people. They did practically all the work of the ranch, and -were paid in shirts, blankets, and articles of clothing. The soil was -fertile, and its yield ample. Cattle and horses were abundant. He had a -number of mechanics, who made whatever he needed. - -The blacksmith of Fremont’s party, desiring to remain in California, -was here discharged, as were also four others of the party. Derosier, -one of the best men in the outfit, the one who a few days before had -gone back after Fremont’s horse, wandered away from the camp and never -returned. - -On March 24 the party having recovered from the suffering endured in -crossing the mountains, and being now once more strong, set out to -continue their journey. An ample stock of provisions had been secured, -and a fresh supply of animals, consisting of one hundred and thirty -horses and mules, and about thirty head of cattle, were also secured. -An Indian herder was furnished by Captain Sutter to look after the -stock, a great part of which was absolutely wild. From this point it -was purposed to go south, up the valley of the San Joaquin, to a pass -at its head. Thence they were to move south-eastwardly to reach the -Spanish trail, which led to Santa Fé. Their southward journey was -delightful. Fremont speaks in terms of enthusiasm of the flowers they -met with, of the beautiful groves of oaks, the songs of the birds, -the sweet odors that perfumed the air. Elk and antelope were in great -abundance, and the wild horses were so numerous that the travellers -feared for the safety of the wild stock they were driving with them. -On April 7 they crossed the divide between the headwaters of the San -Joaquin and the Tulé Lakes. The passage brought with it more or less -change in climate and a distinct change in surroundings. Indians were -met with constantly, and most of them seemed well disposed. As they -lowered their altitude, after passing over the divide, the way became -more rough, though the feed for the animals was still good. - -Fortunately Fremont’s party was ahead of the annual Santa Fé caravans, -which insured them good grass at the camping places. They had not gone -far before they met parties of Mohave Indians, who seemed friendly -enough; but on the day following, two Spaniards, a man and a lad, -came into camp telling of their party of six having been attacked -by Indians, about eighty miles beyond the encampment. They had with -them about thirty horses, and were suddenly attacked by a party of -Indians, who had previously been in camp and seemed friendly. The horse -guards--the two who had just come into Fremont’s camp--drove their -animals through the attacking party and escaped with their horses, -which they had left about twenty miles behind on coming to Fremont’s -camp. When the white men came to the place where the horses had been -left, it appeared that the animals had been driven off by Indians. -Carson and Godey with the Mexican Fuentes started after them; but in -the evening the Mexican returned, his horse having given out. - -“In the afternoon of the next day a warwhoop was heard, such as Indians -make when returning from a victorious enterprise, and soon Carson and -Godey appeared, driving before them a band of horses, recognized by -Fuentes to be part of those they had lost. Two bloody scalps, dangling -from the end of Godey’s gun, announced that they had overtaken the -Indians as well as the horses. They informed us that after Fuentes -left them, from the failure of his horse, they continued the pursuit -alone, and toward nightfall entered the mountains, into which the trail -led. After sunset the moon gave light, and they followed the trail by -moonshine until late in the night, when it entered a narrow defile -and was difficult to follow. Afraid of losing it in the darkness of -the defile, they tied up their horses, struck no fire, and lay down -to sleep in silence and in darkness. Here they lay from midnight till -morning. At daylight they resumed the pursuit, and about sunrise -discovered the horses, and immediately dismounting and tying up their -own, they crept cautiously to a rising ground which intervened, from -the crest of which they perceived the encampment of four lodges close -by. They proceeded quietly, and had got within thirty or forty yards -of their object when a movement among the horses disclosed them to -the Indians. Giving the war shout, they instantly charged into the -camp, regardless of the number which the four lodges would imply. The -Indians received them with a flight of arrows shot from their long -bows, one of which passed through Godey’s shirt collar, barely missing -the neck. Our men fired their rifles upon a steady aim, and rushed in. -Two Indians were stretched on the ground, fatally pierced with bullets; -the rest fled, except a lad that was captured. The scalps of the fallen -were instantly stripped off; but in the process, one of them, who had -two balls through his body, sprung to his feet, the blood streaming -from his skinned head, and uttering a hideous howl. An old squaw, -possibly his mother, stopped and looked back from the mountain-side -she was climbing, threatening and lamenting. The frightful spectacle -appalled the stout hearts of our men; but they did what humanity -required, and quickly terminated the agonies of the gory savage. They -were now masters of the camp, which was a pretty little recess in the -mountain, with a fine spring, and apparently safe from all invasion. -Great preparations had been made to feast a large party, for it was a -very proper place for a rendezvous, and for the celebration of such -orgies as robbers of the desert would delight in. Several of the best -horses had been killed, skinned and cut up, for the Indians, living -in mountains and only coming into the plains to rob and murder, make -no other use of horses than to eat them. Large earthen vessels were -on the fire, boiling and stewing the horse beef, and several baskets -containing fifty or sixty pairs of moccasins indicated the presence or -expectation of a considerable party. They released the boy, who had -given strong evidence of the stoicism or something else of the savage -character, by commencing his breakfast upon a horse’s head as soon as -he found he was not to be killed, but only tied as a prisoner. Their -object accomplished, our men gathered up all the surviving horses, -fifteen in number, returned upon their trail, and rejoined us at our -camp in the afternoon of the same day. They rode about one hundred -miles in the pursuit and return, and all in thirty hours. The time, -place, object and numbers considered, this expedition of Carson and -Godey may be considered among the boldest and most disinterested which -the annals of western adventure, so full of daring deeds, can present. -Two men, in a savage desert, pursue day and night an unknown body of -Indians into the defiles of an unknown mountain, attack them on sight -without counting numbers, and defeat them in an instant--and for -what? To punish the robbers of the desert, and to avenge the wrongs -of Mexicans whom they did not know. I repeat, it was Carson and Godey -who did this--the former an American, born in the Boonslick county of -Missouri; the latter a Frenchman, born in St. Louis--and both trained -to western enterprise from early life.” - -A little later the party came to the place where the Mexicans had been -attacked. There were found the two men of the party, both killed by -arrows; but of the women there was no trace, they having evidently -been carried away. Journeying onward, making short marches, and some -that were very long, they kept on along the Spanish trail. May 4--the -longest journey of all, between fifty and sixty miles without any -water--the skeletons of horses were constantly seen along the trail. -“Hourly expecting to find water, we continued to press on, until toward -midnight, when, after a hard and uninterrupted march of sixteen hours, -our wild mules began running ahead, and in a mile or two we came to -a bold running stream--so keen is the sense of that animal, in these -desert regions, in scenting at a distance this necessary of life.” - -The next day was spent in camp, that the animals might rest and feed. -Indians were about them constantly, and apparently tried to steal their -horses. They were very bold and insolent, but the whites bore it all, -being unwilling to be drawn into a fight. These were the same people -who had murdered the Mexicans; they were barefooted and nearly naked; -the men were armed with bows and arrows, each carrying a quiver of -thirty or forty shafts. The arrow-heads were made of clear, translucent -stone, and Fremont says, “Shot from their long bows are almost as -effective as a gun shot.” A chief came into camp, and declared his -confidence in himself and his people, and his belief that they could -destroy the white men, merely on the ground that they were many while -the whites were few. The Indians were seen hunting lizards, which they -dragged from a hole by means of a long stick hooked at the end. The -next day they followed the party, and promptly picked up every animal -that was left behind to rest and feed. That night one of the best men, -Tabeau, was killed by an Indian, having been shot with arrows not far -from the camp. These Indians did not appear after this day. A day or -two later the party met Joe Walker, the trapper, who now became guide -for the expedition. With him were eight Americans, who, having started -with the Spanish caravan, had heard that a party of white men were -ahead, and had left the caravan and overtaken the explorers. On the way -they had an encounter with the Diggers that had troubled Fremont, and -killed two of them. - -May 23, they reached Sevier River, a tributary of the lake of the same -name. Here they were obliged to ferry themselves across in boats made -of bundles of rushes tied together and bound to poles. Here, too, -Badeau, a good man, was killed by accident; he dragged toward him a gun -by the muzzle and the gun was discharged. Not far beyond they reached -Utah Lake, which Fremont imagined to be the southern end of Great Salt -Lake. He was much puzzled, however, that the northern end of the lake -should be a saturated solution of salt, while the southern end was -fresh. It does not appear to have occurred to him that these were two -different bodies of water. - -Having crossed the mountains to the valley of White River, he reached, -on the 3d of June, what he calls the winter fort, a trading post -belonging to Mr. A. Roubideau, on the principal fork of the Uintah -River. On the 7th, they found themselves on the verge of Brown’s Hole, -a name well known to all old-timers in the West, and thirty years ago -one of the greatest game countries in the world. Here mountain-sheep -were found, and some killed. Two or three days later, buffalo were -killed; and we may imagine the delight with which the travellers found -themselves once more back on the range where fat cow was to be had. -From here they went north into the Three Parks, travelling in pleasant -weather through a country well watered, where grass and wood were to -be had, and where buffalo, antelope, and elk were hardly ever out of -sight. On June 14, they were in New Park, now called North Park, going -southward up the Platte River. They soon came upon parties of Arapahoes -and Sioux, and the camp was full of Indians. On June 22 they crossed -the mountains and found themselves on the headwaters of the Arkansas. -A day or two later they were present at a fight which took place -between Utes and Arapahoes. The Ute women urged the white men to take -part in the fight; but they felt that it was no concern of theirs, and -were quite uneasy lest they themselves should be attacked. They kept -travelling, and before night had put fifteen miles between themselves -and the Indian village, and fortified themselves. They were now -travelling rapidly down the Arkansas, meeting Indians constantly. Among -these were a large village of Pawnees, who received the white men “with -unfriendly rudeness and characteristic insolence which they never fail -to display whenever they find an occasion for doing so with impunity.” -The Pawnees, indeed, seem always subject to the animadversion of the -early traveller. - -The party journeyed down the Arkansas for nearly three hundred miles, -and on the last day of July, 1844, reached the little town of Kansas, -on the Missouri. Fremont’s second journey was over. - - - - -INDEX - - - Abert, Col., 434. - - Adair, 78. - - Alberta, 254. - - Alexander, Henry, 13, _et seq._ - - Amahami, 285. - - American Fur Company, 398, 424. - - Annahways, 155, 156. - - Annian, Straits of, 58, 83. - - Antelope, curiosity of, 235. - - Apaches, 88, 337, 339. - - Arapahoes, 170. - - Arikara, 152, 154, 158, 161, 163, 204, 359. - - Arkansas R., 237. - - Ashley, 420. - - Assiniboia, 254. - - Assiniboine R., 199. - - Assiniboines, 49, 53, 71, 155, 163, 254, 262, 266, 287. - - Astor, John Jacob, 298, 301, 391. - - Astoria, 297, 298, 368. - - Athabasca, Lake, 54-55. - - Athabascans, 54. - - Atséna, 170. - - - B - - Baker’s Bay, 303. - - Bannock Indians, 390. - - Bastonnais, 55. - - Bay of the Holy Spirit, 237. - - Bayou Salade, 380. - - Bear killing, 31. - - Bear R., 389. - - Beaver Indians, 102, 107, 109. - - Beaver Lake, 44, 45, 53. - - Beaverhead, 175, 202. - - Beer Springs, 420. - - Behring’s Isle, 78. - - Beliefs of Indians, 129. - - Bent, Charles, 418. - - Bent’s Fort, 375, 378, 430. - - Big Horn R., 202. - - Big Sioux R., 68, 145, 206. - - Big White, 205. - - Birch Creek, 200. - - Bissonette, Joseph, 405. - - Black Hills, 151. - - Black Mountains, 147, 151, 155. - - Black Shoe Indians, 157. - - Blackfeet, 160, 168, 178, 202, 254, 289, 292, 320. - - Blackfoot Indians, 369. - - Blond children, 284. - - Bloods, 291. - - Blueberry Creek, 295. - - Bois Percé, 262. - - Boisais R., 389. - - Bonak Indians, 390. - - “Boston Men,” 55. - - Bostonnais, 55. - - Bounty on scalps, 339. - - Bridger, Jas., 361, 404. - - British Columbia, 254. - - Brown’s Hole, 384, 385. - - Brulés, 148. - - Buenaventura R., 430, 436. - - Buffalo, decoying, 51. - - Buffalo, old range of, 422. - - - C - - Câche-à-la-Poudre R., 418. - - Caiguas, 337. - - California and Oregon Trail, 9. - - Calumet birds, 153. - - Calumet Bluff, 146. - - Canadian R., 343, 347. - - Cannon Ball R., 153. - - Canoe Island, 126. - - Cape Disappointment, 370. - - Caribou Island, 42. - - Carrabou, 81. - - Carson, Kit, 362, 395. - - Carver, Jonathan, 57, _et seq._, 140, 213. - - Cass Lake, 222. - - Caws, 374. - - Cayuse, 366. - - Cedar Island, 149. - - Cedar Lake, 43, 289. - - Chaboneau, 173, 174, 177, 196, 202. - - Chagouemig, 36. - - Chequamegon, 37. - - Cherokees, 353. - - Cheyennes, 43, 143, 146, 155, 158, 205, 262, 285, 292. - - Chickasaws, 353. - - Chihuahua, 247, 248, 347. - - Chimney Rock, 360. - - Chinook, 188, 304, 367, 390. - - Chipewyans, 54, 88, 90, 103, 130. - - Chippewa, 224. - - Choctaws, 353. - - Chopunnish, 179, 196. - - Chouteau, Cyprian, 395. - - Christineaux, 42, 53. - - Churchill R., 54. - - Cimarron R., 334. - - Clear R., 219. - - Clearwater R., 290. - - Cœur d’Alene Indians, 371. - - Cœur d’Alene R., 318. - - Colter’s Hell, 204. - - Comancheros, 354. - - Comanches, 240, 344. - - Commerce of the Prairies, 6, 332. - - Converse with the spirits, 72. - - Coppermine R., 86, 116. - - “Cordelle,” 169. - - Coues, Dr. Elliott, 10, 222, 243, 251, 254, 297. - - Council Grove, 333. - - _Coureurs des bois_, 12, 13. - - Court House Rock, 360. - - Cox, Ross, 301. - - Cowelisk R., 186. - - Creeks, 353. - - Crees, 42, 71, 101, 103, 123, 155, 254, 262, 266. - - Cumberland House, 44, 45, 53, 289. - - Cypress R., 287. - - - D - - Dakota, 49. - - Dalles, 367. - - Dancing, 160. - - Dearborn R., 174, 199. - - Deer Mountain, 104, 108. - - Des Chutes R., 428. - - Detroit, 23, 27, 35, 36, 77. - - Digger Indians, 389. - - Dog Plains, 62. - - Dog-rib, 88, 89. - - Dogden Buttes, 282. - - Dry Fork, 169. - - Duluth, 37. - - - E - - El Paso del Norte, 247, 347. - - Elk R., 329. - - Eskimo, 92, 93, 94, 97. - - - F - - Falls of St. Anthony, 63, 215, 224. - - Falls of St. Marie, 76. - - Fargo, 262. - - Farnham, Thos. J., 371. - - Fishing, 20, 21. - - Fishing Falls of Columbia, 422. - - Fitzpatrick (of the Broken Hand), 405, 416. - - Flatheads, 293, 319, 327. - - Floyd, Charles, 145, 206. - - Fols Avoin, 210. - - Fond du Lac, 37. - - Fontaine qui bouit, 416. - - Fort: Bent’s, 375, 378, 430; - Bourbon, 43, 289; - Bridger, 384, 420; - Clatsop, 190; - Chipewyan, 85, 86, 101, 108; - Cumberland House, 44, 45, 53, 289; - Dauphin, 44; - David Crockett, 384, 388; - des Prairies, 44, 53; - El Puebla, 378; - George (Astoria), 298, 299, 327; - Hall, 389, 418, 420, 427; - John, 404; - Mandan, 156; - Michilimackinac, 16; - Nippewen, 44; - Okanagan, 371; - Pike’s, 217; - Rocky Mountain House, 290, 297, 328; - St. Vrain’s, 402, 416; - Vancouver, 367, 392; - Vermillion, 289; - William, 298; - William (Bent’s), 375, 378, 395, 418; - York, 249. - - Fowler, Jacob, 10. - - Fox R., 61. - - Foxes, 61, 209. - - Frazer R., 98. - - Fremont, John C., 393. - - Fremont’s Peak, 410. - - Fur trade in 1785, 86. - - - G - - Gallatin R., 174. - - Gama’s Land, 78. - - Garces, 10. - - Gass, Sergeant, 201. - - Gens des Terres, 40. - - Godey, 445. - - Goshen’s Hole, 404. - - Grand Forks, 261, 271. - - Grand Pawnees, 414. - - Grand Portage, 42, 55, 67, 71, 255, 290. - - Grand R., 230, 423. - - Grape Creek, 240. - - Gray-haired children, 284. - - Great Basin, 438. - - Great Falls (of Missouri R.), 172. - - Great Kettle Falls, 327. - - Great Narrows, 193. - - Great Rapids (of the Saskatchewan), 43. - - Great Salt Lake, 426, 449. - - Green R., 408, 419. - - Gregg, Josiah, 332. - - Gros Ventres, 168. - - Gros Ventres of the Prairie, 170, 199, 293. - - - H - - Hair Hills, 259, 265, 288. - - Hairdressing, method of, 79. - - Hare, 88. - - Henry, Alexander, 56. - - Henry, Alexander, the Younger, 154, 222, 253. - - Henry, William, 56, 298. - - _Heterodon platyrhinos_, 78. - - Hidatsa, 155. - - Hill of the Little People, 145. - - Horse Creek, 404. - - Horses, catching wild, 235. - - Horses encourage indolence, 274. - - Hudson’s Bay Company, 86, 271, 280, 289, 301. - - Hunt, W. P., 299, 303. - - Huts (of Eskimo), 94. - - - I - - Ile de Maurepas, 42. - - Independence Rock, 360, 407. - - Indian tribes: Amahami, 285; - Annahways, 155, 156; - Apaches, 88, 337, 339; - Arapahoes, 170; - Arikara, 152, 154, 158, 161, 163, 359; - Assiniboines, 49, 53, 71, 155, 163, 168, 254, 262, 266, 287; - Atséna, 170; - Bannock Indians, 390; - Beaver, 102, 107, 109; - Blackfeet, 160, 168, 178, 202, 254, 289; - Blackfoot Indians, 369; - Black Shoe Indians, 157; - Bloods, 291; - Bonak Indians, 390; - Brulés, 148; - Caiguas, 337; - Caws, 374; - Cayuse, 356; - Cherokees, 353; - Cheyennes, 43, 143, 146, 155, 205, 262, 285, 292; - Chickasaws, 353; - Chinook, 188, 304, 369, 390; - Chipewyans, 54, 88, 90, 103, 130; - Chippewa, 224; - Choctaws, 353; - Chopunnish, 179, 196; - Christineaux, 42, 53; - Cœur d’Alene Indians, 371; - Comanches, 240, 344; - Creeks, 353; - Crees, 42, 71, 101, 123, 155, 254, 262; - Dakota, 49; - Digger Indians, 389; - Dog-Rib, 88; - Eskimo, 90-97; - Flatheads, 293, 319, 327; - Fols Avoin, 210; - Gens des Terres, 40; - Grand Pawnees, 414; - Gros Ventres of the Prairie, 170, 199, 293; - Hare, 88; - Hidatsa, 155; - Kans, 232; - Kansas, 373; - Kauzaus Indians, 373; - Killamucks, 188; - Killistinaux, 42; - Killistinoes, 42; - Kiowas, 240, 344; - Kinistineaux, 42; - Kite, 143, 147; - Knisteneaux, 102; - Kutenais, 295; - Loucheux, 97; - Mahaha, 157; - Menominees, 210, 221; - Mindawarcarton, 148; - Minneconjous, 148; - Minnetari, 155, 156; - Minnetari of Fort de Prairie, 170, 199; - Minnewakaton, 148; - Missourias, 141, 144, 145; - Mohave Indians, 444; - Nascud Denee, 127; - Navajos, 88; - Nez Percés, 179, 180, 194, 313, 326; - Ogallalas, 148, 150, 360; - Ojibwa, 215, 257; - Omaha, 144; - Osages, 141, 207, 225, 227, 235; - Osinipoilles, 49; - Otoes, 141, 144, 145; - Pahkees, 178; - Pah-utes, 421; - Pawnawnees, 68; - Pawnee, 68, 142-44, 158, 208, 227-238; - Pawnee Picts, 357; - Peigan, 178, 291; - Pierced-nose, 179, 313; - Poncas, 148; - Puants, 209; - Red Knife, 88, 90; - Rees, 152, 153, 205; - Ricaras, 156; - Rocky Mountain, 107; - Root Diggers, 421; - Sac, 208; - Sacs and Foxes, 209, 225; - Santees, 148; - Sarsi, 291, 292; - Saulteurs, 262; - Sauteurs, 209, 223; - Schian, 285; - Seminoles, 353; - Sharha, 158; - Shoshoni, 155, 175, 178, 180, 326; - Sioux, 49, 62, 63, _et passim_; - Sissetons, 148, 221; - Sistasoone, 148; - Slave, 89; - Snake Indians, 385, 424; - Sokulks, 181; - Soulier, 285; - Soulier Noir, 157, 283; - Spokanes, 313; - Staitan, 143; - Suhtai, 143; - Swampy Crees, 43; - Teton Indians, 149, 204; - Tetons of the Burned Woods--Minnakenozzo, Saone, 148; - Tushepaw Indians, 179; - Utes, 450; - Walla Wallas, 194, 312, 320, 326, 366; - Wahpatones, 148; - Wahpatoota, 148; - Wattasoons, 157; - Winnebagoes, 60, 209, 225; - Witapat, 144; - Yanktonnaies, 148; - Yankton Sioux, 146, 148, 152, 221; - Yanktons of the Plains, 148; - Yellow Knives, 88; - Yutas, 337. - - Isle a la crosse, Lake, 54. - - Isle de Carre Boeuf, 88. - - Isle of St. Joseph, 76. - - Isles du Castor, 29. - - - J - - Jackson’s Hole, 362. - - James R., 148. - - Japon, 78. - - Jedso, 78. - - Jefferson, President, 139, 210. - - Jefferson R., 174, 176, 201. - - Jessaume, 154. - - John Day R., 428. - - Jornada del Muerto, 347. - - Judith R., 170. - - - K - - Kans, 232. - - Kansas R., 148, 207, 231. - - Kaskaskia, 242, 331. - - Kauzaus Indians, 373. - - Keewatin, 254. - - Killamucks, 188. - - Killistinaux, 42. - - Killistinoes, 42. - - “King George Men,” 55. - - Kinistineaux, 42. - - Kiowa Calendar, 346. - - Kiowas, 240, 344. - - Kite Indians, 143, 147. - - Kitkahahk Village, 207. - - Klamath Lake, 430, 434. - - Knife R., 157. - - Knisteneaux, 102. - - Kooyah R., 423. - - Kutenai Park, 295. - - Kutenai Plains, 295. - - Kutenais, 295. - - - L - - La Charette, 206. - - La Chaudière, 321. - - Lachine, 14, 15. - - La Cloche, 16. - - La Crosse, 213. - - Lake (or Lac): - a la Pluie, 42, 67; - Arabuthcow, 54, 55; - Athabasca, 54, 55; - Beaver, 44, 45, 53; - Cass, 222; - Cedar, 43, 289; - Dauphin, 44; - de Bourbon, 43, 67, 289; - Des Chats, 15; - Great Salt, 426, 449; - Isle a la Crosse, 54; - Klamath, 430, 434; - La Sang Sue, 222; - Leech, 222; - of the Crees, 42; - of the Hills, 85, 102; - of the Woods, 42, 55, 67, 255; - Ottawa, 66; - Pepin, 62; - Pyramid, 436; - Rainy, 106, 324; - Red, 260; - St. Louis, 15; - Salt, 55; - Slave, 87, 101, 329; - Sturgeon, 287; - Summer, 434; - Temiscamingue, 40; - Tlamath, 430; - Tulé, 444; - Upper Red Cedar, 222; - Utah, 449; - Winnebago, 60; - Winipegon, 42, 67; - Winnipeg, 255, 289. - - Laramie R., 404. - - L’Arbre Croche, 12, 29. - - La Rivière qui Court, 148. - - La Roche Jaune, 165. - - Le Borgne, 205. - - Le Boulet R., 153. - - Lee, John, 398. - - Lewis and Clark, 6, 8, 138, _et seq._ - - Lewis R., 180, 181, 194. - - Little Bear R., 382. - - Little Missouri, 153, 155. - - Little Sandy R., 408. - - Little Snake R., 382. - - Lodge Pole Creek, 404. - - Long--_Voyages and Travels_, 259. - - Loucheux, 97. - - Louisiana Purchase, 5, 59, 138, 145. - - Loup Fork R., 148, 259. - - - M - - Mackenzie, Alexander, 84, _et. seq._ - - Mackenzie, Donald, 303. - - Mackenzie reaches Pacific Ocean, 132. - - Macubah, 132. - - Madison R., 174, 202. - - Mahaha, 157. - - Maison du Chien, 282. - - Mandans, 153, _et seq._ - - Manitoba, 254. - - Maria’s R., 199. - - Marquette, Father, 17. - - Massacre at Michilimackinac, 23. - - Mattawa R., 15. - - Matthews, 155. - - Maxwell, L., 395. - - McDougal, Duncan, 298. - - McLaughlin, Dr. J., 367. - - Medicine Bow Mountains, 418. - - Medicine Lodge R., 291. - - Meeting the Shoshoni, 175. - - Menominees, 210, 221. - - Messorie, 65, 68, 83. - - Michilimackinac, 16, 20, 22, 27, 38, 39, 56. - - Michipicoten, 39-41, 277. - - Milk R., 169. - - Mindawarcarton, 148. - - Minnavavana, 17. - - Minneconjous, 148. - - Minnesota R., 64. - - Minnetari, 155, 156. - - Minnetari of Fort de Prairie, 170, 199. - - Minnewakaton, 148. - - Missisaki R., 16. - - Missouri R., 17. - - Missourias, 141, 144, 145. - - Mohave Indians, 444. - - Mt. Hood, 429. - - Mt. Rainier, 429. - - Mt. St. Helens, 429. - - Mouse R., 282. - - Musselshell R., 169. - - Mustangs, 350. - - - N - - Nanibojou, 41. - - Nascud Denee, 127. - - Natchitoches, 249. - - Naudowessie (of the Plains), 62, 63, 67. - - Navajos, 88. - - Nebraska, 397. - - Nelson R., 65. - - New Park, 450. - - Nez Percés, 313, 326, 179, 180, 194. - - Nicollet, Joseph, 145. - - Niobrara, R., 148. - - Nootka, 304. - - North Park (Colo.), 380. - - Northwest Fur Company, 86, 154, 222, 298, 302. - - - O - - Ogallalas, 148, 150, 360. - - Ojibwa, 215, 257. - - Okinagan, 323, 327. - - Okinagan R., 323. - - Omaha Indians, 144. - - Ontario R., 254. - - Ontonagan R., 37-38. - - Ordway, Sergeant, 198. - - Oregon, 391. - - Oregon R., 65, 83, 394. - - Origin story (of Mandans), 159. - - Osage R., 228. - - Osages, 141, 144, 207, 225, 227-235. - - Osinipoilles, 49, 50, 53. - - Otoes, 141, 144, 145. - - Ottawa R., 15. - - Ottigaumies, 61, 80. - - Ottowaw Lakes, 66. - - Ouisconsin (or Ouisconsing) R., 61, 209. - - Oxen, wild, 49. - - - P - - Pacific Fur Company, 299. - - Pahkees, 178. - - Pah-utes, 421. - - Panbian Mts., 262. - - Panbian R., 272, 277. - - Pangman, Peter, 290, 292. - - Pangman’s Tree, 290. - - Park R., 258. - - Parker, Samuel, 356. - - Pasquayah R., 43. - - Pawnawnees, 68. - - Pawnees, 68, 142, 144, 158, 208, 227-235, 238. - - Pawnee Picts, 357. - - Peace Point, 102. - - Peace R., 55, 102-103, 107, 121, 136. - - Peigan, 178, 291. - - Pembina Mts., 262. - - Pembina R., 298. - - Pemmican, 100. - - Pepin, Lake, 62. - - Petit Corbeau, 216. - - Pierced-nose Indians, 179, 313. - - Pike, Zebulon M., 141, 207, 331, 393. - - Pike’s Flag Raising, 233. - - Pike’s Fort, 217. - - Pioneers, character of, 11. - - Platte R., 143, 148, 206. - - Pompey’s Pillar, 203. - - Poncas, 148. - - Pond, Peter, 43-44. - - Pontiac, 35, 77. - - Porcupine R., 167. - - Portage de Lisle, 255. - - Portage La Prairie, 254, 256. - - Prairie des Chiens, La, 62, 65, 210, 224. - - Prairie Hen R., 419. - - Preuss, Charles, 395. - - Pryor, Sergeant, 146, 198, 202, 203. - - Puants, 209. - - Puget Sound, 58. - - Purgatory R., 237. - - Pyramid Lake, 436. - - - R - - Rainy Lake, 106, 324. - - Red Deer R., 291. - - Red Knife Indians, 88, 90. - - Red Lake, 260. - - Red Mountain, 65. - - Red R. (Canadian), 240, 241, 245. - - Red Wing, 224. - - Rees, 152, 153, 205. - - Republican R., 207. - - Reynards, 209. - - Ricaras, 156. - - Riding Mountain, 254. - - Rio Grande, 245. - - Rio Grande del Norte, 242, 330. - - Risen Moose, 215. - - Rivers: - Arkansas, 237; - Assiniboine, 199; - Bear, 389; - Big Sioux, 68; - Birch, 200; - Blueberry, 295; - Boisais, 389; - Buenaventura, 430, 436; - Câche à la Poudre, 418; - Canadian, 343, 347; - Cannon Ball, 153; - Cimarron, 334; - Clear, 219; - Clearwater, 290; - Cœur d’Alene, 318; - Coppermine, 86, 116; - Cowelisk, 186; - Cypress, 287; - Dearborn, 174, 199; - de Bourbon, 43, 65; - Des Chutes, 428; - Dry Fork, 169; - Elk, 329; - Fontaine qui bouit, 416; - Fox, 61; - Frazer, 98; - Gallatin, 174; - Grand, 230, 423; - Grape, 240; - Green, 408, 419; - Horse, 404; - James, 148; - Jefferson, 174, 176, 201; - John Day, 428; - Judith, 170; - Kansas, 148, 207, 231, 396; - Knife, 157; - Laramie, 404; - La Rivière qui Court, 148; - La Roche Jaune, 165; - Le Boulet, 153; - Lewis, 180, 194; - Little Bear, 382; - Little Missouri, 153, 155; - Little Sandy, 408; - Little Snake, 382; - Lodge Pole, 404; - Loup, 148, 259; - Madison, 174, 202; - Maria’s, 199; - Mattawa, 15; - Medicine Lodge, 291; - Messorie, 65, 68, 83; - Milk, 169; - Minnesota, 64; - Missisaki, 16; - Missouri, 17, _et passim_; - Mouse, 282; - Musselshell, 169; - Nelson, 65; - Niobrara, 148; - of the West, 65, 83; - of Souls, 237; - Okinagan, 323; - Ontonagan, 37, 38; - Oregon, 65, 83, 394; - Osage, 228; - Ottawa, 15; - Ouisconsin (or Ouisconsing), 61, 209; - Panbian, 272, 277; - Pasquayah, 43; - Peace, 55, 102, 121, 136; - Pembina, 298; - Platte, 240; - Porcupine, 167; - Prairie Hen, 419; - Purgatory, 237; - Red (Canadian), 240, 241, 245; - Republican, 207; - Rio del Nord, 61; - Rio Grande, 245; - Rio Grande del Norte, 242, 330; - Rivière aux Chutes, 428; - Rocky Mountain, 328; - Running Water, 148; - Sacramento, 437, 440; - St. Croix, 62, 67; - St. Fee, 61; - St. Frances, 63, 64; - St. Maurice, 40; - St. Peter’s, 224, 262; - St. Pierre, 64, 65; - Saskatchewan, 17, 43, 289; - Salmon, 365, 422; - Schian, 262; - Sevier, 449; - Snake, 389, 428; - Solomon, 231; - Spokane, 327; - Sweetwater, 407, 419; - Uintah, 449; - Walla Walla, 194, 312, 321; - White, 234, 449; - Whitestone, 145; - Winnipic, 255; - Wisconsin, 61; - Wisdom, 201; - Yampah, 423; - Yellowstone, 165, 198, 201; - York, 65; - Yukon, 98; - - Road of War, 67. - - Robinson, Dr., 227, 235. - - Robinson, “Uncle Jack,” 384. - - Rock Mountain Indians, 107. - - Rocky Mountain Ho., 290, 297, 328. - - Rocky Mountain R., 328. - - Root Diggers, 421. - - Running Water R., 148. - - - S - - Sac, 208. - - Sackett’s Harbor, 252. - - Sacramento R., 437, 440. - - Sacs and Foxes, 209, 225. - - St. Anne’s, 15. - - St. Augustine, founded, 3. - - St. Croix R., 62, 67. - - St. Maurice R., 40. - - St. Peter’s, 216. - - St. Peter’s R., 224, 262. - - St. Pierre R., 64, 65. - - St. Vrain’s Fort, 402, 416. - - Salmon R., 365, 422. - - Salt Lake, 55. - - San Francisco Bay, 440. - - San Joaquin R., 444. - - Sans Oreille, 228. - - Santa Fé, 6, 7, 207, 242, 331. - - Santees, 148. - - Sarsi, 291, 292. - - Saskatchewan (Province), 254. - - Saskatchewan R., 17, 43, 44, 289. - - Saukies, (town of), 61. - - Sault de Sainte-Marie, 20, 36, 39, 42, 77. - - Saulteurs, 262. - - Sauteurs, 209, 223. - - Schian R., 262. - - Schians, 285. - - Scott’s Bluffs, 360. - - Seminoles, 353. - - Sepulcher Rock, 193. - - Sevier R., 449. - - Sharha, 158. - - Shining Mountains, 64, 69. - - Shoshoni, 155, 175, 178, 180, 326. - - Side Hill Calf, 200. - - Sierra Nevada Mts., 436. - - Sign Language, 284. - - Sioux, 49, 61, 62, _et passim_. - - Sissetons, 148, 221. - - Sistasoone, 148. - - Slave Indians, 89. - - Slave Lake, 87, 101, 329. - - Snake Indians, 385, 424. - - Snake R., 389, 428. - - Soda Springs, 421. - - Sokulks, 181. - - Solomon R., 231. - - Soulier, 285. - - Soulier Noir, 157, 283. - - South Pass, 408. - - South Platte R., 240. - - Spokane, 319. - - Spokane House, 320. - - Spokane R., 327. - - Spokanes, 313. - - Staitan, 143. - - Staked Plains, 348. - - Standing Rock, 152. - - Standing Rock Agency, 152. - - Stone Idol Creek, 152. - - Stony, or Rocky, Mountains, 55. - - Straits of Annian, 58, 83. - - Sturgeon Lake, 287. - - Suhtai, 143. - - Summer Lake, 434. - - Surgery, 104. - - Sutter, Capt., 442. - - Swampy Crees, 43. - - Sweetwater R., 407, 419. - - - T - - Tanner, 280. - - Taos, 7, 330, 395. - - Temiscamingue Lake, 40. - - Terre Blanche, 293. - - Teton Indians, 149, 204. - - Tetons of the Burned Woods, 148. - Minnakenozzo. - Saone. - - “The River of the West,” 388. - - Thompson, David, 222. - - Thousand Lakes, 64. - - Three Forks of the Missouri, 174. - - Three Parks, 450. - - Three Tetons, 410. - - Tlamath Lake, 430. - - Tongue R., 278. - - Tonquin, fate of, 304. - - Townsend, Dr. J. K., 368, 390. - - Trading Post, _see_ Fort. - - _Tripe de roche_, 41. - - Tulé Lake, 444. - - Tushepaw Indians, 179. - - Twisted Hair, 195. - - - U - - Uintah R., 449. - - Umfreville, 5. - - Upper Red Cedar Lake, 222. - - Utah Lake, 449. - - - V - - Vera Cruz, 332. - - Vérendrye, 17, 43, 59, 289. - - - W - - Wacon-teebe, 63. - - Wahpatones, 148. - - Wahpatoota, 148. - - Walla Walla R., 194, 312, 321. - - Walla Wallas, 194, 312, 320, 326, 366. - - Wappatoo, 185, 191. - - Warrior Societies, 147. - - Washington, (State of), 291. - - Wattasoons, 157. - - West Road R., 126. - - White Bear Island, 199. - - White Goose, 215. - - White R., 423, 449. - - Whitestone R., 145. - - Whitman, Dr. Marcus, 356, 361. - - Wilkinson, Gen. James, 207, 211, 223, 226. - - Wilkinson, Lt., 227, 235. - - Willard, Sergeant, 201. - - Wind River Mountains, 408. - - Winnebago, Lake, 60. - - Winnebagoes, 60, 61, 209, 225. - - Winnipic R., 255. - - Wisconsin R., 61. - - Wisdom R., 201. - - Witapat, 144. - - Wolf Calf, 200. - - Wolf pits, 282. - - Wolves attacking horses, 324. - - Wolves, rabid, 260. - - Wood R., 141. - - - Y - - Yampah R., 423. - - Yankton Sioux, 146, 148, 152, 221. - - Yanktonnaies, 148. - - Yanktons of the Plains, 148. - - Yellow Knives, 88. - - Yellowstone Park, 204. - - Yellowstone R., 165, 198, 201, 202. - - Yeso, 78. - - York R., 65. - - Yukon R., 98. - - Yutas, 337. - - - - -Trails of the Pathfinders - -By GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL - -Illustrated. $1.50 net. Postpaid $1.65 - - -CONTENTS - - INTRODUCTION - ALEXANDER HENRY - JONATHAN CARVER - ALEXANDER MACKENZIE - LEWIS AND CLARK - ZEBULON M. PIKE - ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER) - ROSS COX - THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES - SAMUEL PARKER - THOMAS J. FARNHAM - FREMONT - -One of the most stirring and inspiring chapters in the history of our -country is made up of the picturesque, straightforward narratives of -their adventures, told by the heroic men of action, explorers, hunters, -and trappers, who first travelled through the unknown regions and among -hostile Indians. Mr. Grinnell gives a number of the most exciting and -important of these stories, told almost entirely in the words of the -explorer himself, and they form a work of unrivalled interest to old -and young. - - - - -READY SHORTLY - -Zebulon M. Pike - -Edited by MARY GAY HUMPHREYS - -Illustrated. About $1.50 net. Postage extra - - -The thrilling account of Pike’s explorations told chiefly in his own -words. - - -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK - - - - -The Boy’s Catlin - -My Life Among the Indians - -Edited with Biographical Introduction by MARY GAY HUMPHREYS - -Illustrated from Catlin’s Drawings. $1.50 net - - -“As interesting a story of Indians as was ever written and has the -merit of being true.”--_New York Sun._ - -“It would be hard to find a book of more wholesome fascination for -boys.”--_San Francisco Argonaut._ - - - - -The Boy’s Drake - -By EDWIN M. BACON - -Illustrated. $1.50 net. Postpaid $1.65 - - -“Much of the story is told in the words of old records, and interesting -old maps and pictures make it still more valuable.”--_The Bookman._ - -“He has entered into the stirring time of England’s conquest of the -seas and has written a fine biography of her great pirate captain, a -book worthy of its subject and a worthy book for a boy.”--_Chicago -Tribune._ - - - - -The Boy’s Hakluyt - -Retold from Hakluyt - -By EDWIN M. BACON - -Illustrated. $1.50 net - - -“There is more adventure in this volume than will be found in a whole -library of fiction.”--_New York Sun._ - - -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK - - - - -BY NOAH BROOKS - -First Across the Continent - -A CONCISE STORY OF THE LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION - -Illustrated. $1.50 net - - -“More readable than a romance, full of hair-breadth escapes and -imminent perils from savage man and beast, by storm and flood, by -sickness and cold and starvation.”--_Chicago Post._ - -“For any one who has an interest in adventure and in the hardihood of -the pioneer this is a great story.”--_Boston Herald._ - - - - -The Boy Emigrants - -Illustrated. $1.25 - - -“It is one of the best boys’ stories we have ever read.”--_The -Christian Work._ - -“The name alone of this volume’s author should be a sufficient -voucher for its qualities ... the book is picturesque and -stirring.”--_Providence Journal._ - - - - -The Boy Settlers - -A STORY OF EARLY TIMES IN KANSAS - -Illustrated. $1.25 - - -“Three boys and two men go out into Kansas, at the time when that -region was the Far West. The boys have great sport killing buffaloes -and some trouble about Indian uprisings.”--_The Independent._ - - -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK - - - - -The Adventures of James Capen Adams - -Mountaineer and Grizzly Bear Hunter of California - -By THEODORE H. HITTELL - -Illustrated. $1.50 net. Postpaid $1.65 - - -The story of the life and thrilling adventures of one of the most -famous of American hunters and one of the first great tamers of wild -animals. - -The narrative is given just as it first appeared in the simple, direct -language in which “Grizzly” Adams told it to Mr. Hittell--a style that -bears all the marks of absolute truth. - - - - -The Grizzly Bear - -By WILLIAM H. WRIGHT - -Illustrated from Photographs by the Author and J. B. Kerfoot. $1.50 net - - -“Full of the atmosphere of the big game woods and vibrant with hazards -of the chase.”--_Boston Globe._ - -“The very spirit of the grizzly is in subtle fashion brought near us. -The book will long hold a high place in the literature of sport.”--_New -York Tribune._ - - - - -The Black Bear - -By WILLIAM H. WRIGHT - -Illustrated from Photographs by the Author and J. B. Kerfoot. $1.00 -net. Postpaid $1.10 - - -“Finely illustrated, informing, and entertaining.”--_Philadelphia -Inquirer._ - - -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a -predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not -changed. - -Simple typographical errors were corrected; occasional unpaired -quotation marks were retained. - -Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained. - -Index not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page references. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS*** - - -******* This file should be named 53897-0.txt or 53897-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/3/8/9/53897 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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} - h4 { text-align: center; - clear: both; } - hr.full { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Trails of the Pathfinders, by George Bird -Grinnell</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Trails of the Pathfinders</p> -<p>Author: George Bird Grinnell</p> -<p>Release Date: January 5, 2017 [eBook #53897]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Larry B. Harrison, Charlie Howard,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - <a href="https://archive.org/details/trailsofpathfind00grinrich"> - https://archive.org/details/trailsofpathfind00grinrich</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img src="images/cover.jpg" width="545" height="800" alt="cover" /> -</div> - -<div class="newpage ad narrow"> -<p class="center wspace vspace"><span class="large gesperrt">IN THE SAME SERIES</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Published by</span> CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="hang"> -<b>The Boy’s Catlin.</b> My Life Among the Indians, by -<span class="smcap">George Catlin</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">Mary Gay Humphreys</span>. -Illustrated. 12mo. <span class="fright"><i>net</i> $1.50</span></p> - -<p class="hang"> -<b>The Boy’s Hakluyt.</b> English Voyages of Adventure -and Discovery, retold from Hakluyt by <span class="smcap">Edwin M. -Bacon</span>. Illustrated. 12mo. <span class="fright"><i>net</i> $1.50</span></p> - -<p class="hang"> -<b>The Boy’s Drake.</b> By <span class="smcap">Edwin M. Bacon</span>. Illustrated. -12mo. <span class="fright"><i>net</i> $1.50</span></p> - -<p class="hang"> -<b>Trails of the Pathfinders.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Bird -Grinnell</span>. Illustrated. 12mo. <span class="fright"><i>net</i> $1.50</span></p> -</div> - -<h1><a id="TRAILS_OF_THE_PATHFINDERS"></a>TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS</h1> - -<div id="i_frontis" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;"> - <img src="images/i_000.jpg" width="384" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption hang"> - -CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK WERE MUCH PUZZLED AT THIS -POINT TO KNOW WHICH OF THE RIVERS BEFORE THEM -WAS THE MAIN MISSOURI.</div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p class="newpage p4 center vspace wspace xxlarge bold"> -TRAILS OF<br /> -THE PATHFINDERS</p> - -<p class="p2 center">BY<br /> -<br /> -<span class="large">GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smaller">AUTHOR OF “BLACKFOOT LODGE TALES,”<br /> -“PAWNEE HERO STORIES AND FOLK TALES,”<br /> -“THE STORY OF THE INDIAN,”<br /> -“INDIANS OF TODAY,” ETC.</span></p> - -<p class="p2 center">ILLUSTRATED</p> - -<p class="p2 center large vspace wspace">NEW YORK<br /> -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS<br /> -<span class="smaller">1911</span> -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="newpage p4 center small"> -<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1911, by</span><br /> -CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS<br /> -<br /> -Published April, 1911 -</p> - -<div id="if_i_001" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 4.1875em;"> - <img src="images/i_001.jpg" width="67" height="76" alt="" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> -</div> - -<p>The chapters in this book appeared first as part of a series -of articles under the same title contributed to <cite>Forest and Stream</cite> -several years ago. At the time they aroused much interest and -there was a demand that they should be put into book form.</p> - -<p>The books from which these accounts have been drawn are -good reading for all Americans. They are at once history and -adventure. They deal with a time when half the continent -was unknown; when the West—distant and full of romance—held -for the young, the brave and the hardy, possibilities that -were limitless.</p> - -<p>The legend of the kingdom of El Dorado did not pass with -the passing of the Spaniards. All through the eighteenth and -a part of the nineteenth century it was recalled in another sense -by the fur trader, and with the discovery of gold in California -it was heard again by a great multitude—and almost with its -old meaning.</p> - -<p>Besides these old books on the West, there are many others -which every American should read. They treat of that same -romantic period, and describe the adventures of explorers, -Indian fighters, fur hunters and fur traders. They are a part -of the history of the continent.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">New York</span>, <i>April</i>, 1911.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii">vii</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<table id="toc" summary="Contents"> - <tr class="small"> - <td class="tdr nopad">CHAPTER</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr nopad">PAGE</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">I.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">3</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">II.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Henry</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">13</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">III.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Henry</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">36</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">IV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Jonathan Carver</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">57</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">V.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Mackenzie</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">84</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">VI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Mackenzie</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">102</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">VII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Mackenzie</span>—III</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">121</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">VIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">138</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">IX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">154</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">X.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark</span>—III</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">169</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark</span>—IV</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">179</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark</span>—V</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">190</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Zebulon M. Pike</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">207</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XIV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Zebulon M. Pike</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">226</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Zebulon M. Pike</span>—III</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">238</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XVI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Henry</span> (<span class="smcap">The Younger</span>)—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">253</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XVII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Henry</span> (<span class="smcap">The Younger</span>)—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">271</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XVIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Henry</span> (<span class="smcap">The Younger</span>)—III</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">287</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XIX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Ross Cox</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">301</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii">viii</a></span></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Ross Cox</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">319</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Commerce of the Prairies</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">330</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Commerce of the Prairies</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">341</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Samuel Parker</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">359</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXIV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Thomas J. Farnham</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">372</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXV.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Thomas J. Farnham</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">382</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXVI.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fremont</span>—I</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">393</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXVII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fremont</span>—II</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">405</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXVIII.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fremont</span>—III</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">415</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXIX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fremont</span>—IV</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">428</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr top">XXX.</td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fremont</span>—V</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">435</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix">ix</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -</div> - -<table id="loi" summary="Illustrations"> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Captains Lewis and Clark Were Much Puzzled at This Point to Know Which of the Rivers Before Them Was the Main Missouri</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><i><a href="#i_frontis">Frontispiece</a></i></td></tr> - <tr class="small"> - <td class="tdr tpad nopad" colspan="2">FACING PAGE</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">“<span class="smcap">I Now Resigned Myself to the Fate with Which I Was Menaced</span>”</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_28">28</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Man of the Naudowessie</span><br />From <cite>Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America</cite>, by Jonathan Carver</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_62">62</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Man of the Ottigaumies</span><br />From <cite>Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America</cite>, by Jonathan Carver</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_62">62</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alexander Mackenzie</span><br />From Mackenzie’s <cite>Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America</cite>, etc.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_84">84</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mackenzie and the Men Jumped Overboard</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_118">118</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Monument at Colorado Springs, Colorado</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_208">208</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Buffalo on the Southern Plains</span><br />From Kendall’s <cite>Narrative of the Texas Santa Fé Expedition</cite></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_236">236</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Two Men Mounted on Her Back, but She Was as Active with This Load as Before</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_270">270</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fur Traders of the North</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_280">280</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Astoria in 1813</span><br />From Franchere’s <cite>Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x">x</a></span>of America</cite></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_302">302</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Caravan on the March</span><br />From Gregg’s <cite>Commerce of the Prairies</cite></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_334">334</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Wagons Parked for the Night</span><br />From Gregg’s <cite>Commerce of the Prairies</cite></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_339">340</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Trappers Attacked by Indians</span><br />From an old print by A. Tait</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_360">360</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Train Stampeded by Wild Horses</span><br />From Bartlett’s <cite>Texas, New Mexico, California</cite>, etc.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_372">372</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Major-General John C. Fremont</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_394">394</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">An Oto Council</span><br />From James’s <cite>An Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains by Major Stephen H. Long</cite>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_414">414</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc chap" colspan="2">MAP</td></tr> - <tr class="small"> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr nopad">PAGE</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Routes of Some of the Pathfinders</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#ip_2">2</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2">2</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><span class="larger">TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS</span></h2> -</div> - -<hr /> -<div id="ip_2" class="newpage figcenter" style="max-width: 53.3125em;"> - <img src="images/i_002.jpg" width="853" height="526" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">ROUTES OF SOME OF THE PATHFINDERS</div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3">3</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><span class="larger">TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS</span></h2> -</div> - -<hr /> -<h2 class="nobreak p2 vspace"><a id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br /> - -<span class="subhead">INTRODUCTION</span></h2> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Three</span> centuries ago half a dozen tiny hamlets, -peopled by white men, were scattered along the -western shores of the North Atlantic Ocean. -These little settlements owed allegiance to different -nations of Europe, each of which had thrust out a hand -to grasp some share of the wealth which might lie in the -unknown wilderness which stretched away from the seashore -toward the west.</p> - -<p>The “Indies” had been discovered more than a hundred -years before, but though ships had sailed north -and ships had sailed south, little was known of the land, -through which men were seeking a passage to share the -trade which the Portuguese, long before, had opened -up with the mysterious East. That passage had not -been found. To the north lay ice and snow, to the -south—vaguely known—lay the South Sea. What that -South Sea was, what its limits, what its relations to -lands already visited, were still secrets.</p> - -<p>St. Augustine had been founded in 1565; and forty -years later the French made their first settlement at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4">4</a></span> -Port Royal in what is now Nova Scotia. In 1607 -Jamestown was settled; and a year later the French -established Quebec. The Pilgrims landed in Massachusetts -in 1620 and the first settlement of the Dutch -on the island of Manhattan was in 1623. All these -settlers establishing themselves in a new country found -enough to do in the struggle to procure subsistence, to -protect themselves from the elements and from the attacks -of enemies, without attempting to discover what -lay inland—beyond the sound of the salt waves which -beat upon the coast. Not until later was any effort -made to learn what lay in the vast interior.</p> - -<p>Time went on. The settlements increased. Gradually -men pushed farther and farther inland. There -were wars; and one nation after another was crowded -from its possessions, until, at length, the British owned -all the settlements in eastern temperate America. The -white men still clung chiefly to the sea-coast, and it was -in western Pennsylvania that the French and Indians -defeated Braddock in 1755, George Washington being -an officer under his command.</p> - -<p>A little later came the war of the Revolution, and a -new people sprang into being in a land a little more -than two hundred and fifty years known. This people, -teeming with energy, kept reaching out in all directions -for new things. As they increased in numbers they -spread chiefly in the direction of least resistance. The -native tribes were easier to displace than the French, -who held forts to the north, and the Spanish, who possessed -territory to the south; and the temperate climate<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5">5</a></span> -toward the west attracted them more than the cold of -the north or the heat of the south. So the Americans -pushed on always to the setting sun, and their early -movements gave truth to Bishop Berkeley’s famous -line, written long before and in an altogether different -connection, “Westward the course of empire takes its -way.” The Mississippi was reached, and little villages, -occupied by Frenchmen and their half-breed children, -began to change, to be transformed into American -towns. Yet in 1790, ninety-five per cent. of the population -of the United States was on the Atlantic seaboard.</p> - -<p>Now came the Louisiana Purchase, and immediately -after that the expedition across the continent by -Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. The trip took -two years’ time, and the reports brought back by the -intrepid explorers, telling the wonderful story of what -lay in the unknown beyond, greatly stimulated the imagination -of the western people. Long before this it -had become known that the western ocean—the South -Sea of an earlier day—extended north along the continent, -and that there was no connection here with India. -It was known, too, that the Spaniards occupied -the west coast. In 1790, Umfreville said: “That there -are European traders settled among the Indians from -the other side of the continent is without doubt. I, -myself, have seen horses with Roman capitals burnt -in their flanks with a hot iron. I likewise once saw -a hanger with Spanish words engraved on the blade. -Many other proofs have been obtained to convince us<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6">6</a></span> -that the Spaniards on the opposite side of the continent -make their inland peregrinations as well as -ourselves.”</p> - -<p>Western travel and exploration, within the United -States, began soon after the return of Lewis and Clark. -The trapper, seeking for peltry—the rich furs so much -in demand in Europe—was the first to penetrate the -unknown wilds; but close upon his heels followed the -Indian trader, who used trapper and Indian alike to -fill his purse. With the trapper and the trader, naturalists -began to push out into the west, studying the -fauna and flora of the new lands. About the same -time the possibilities of trade with the Mexicans induced -the beginnings of the Santa Fé trade, that Commerce -of the Prairies which has been so fully written of -by the intrepid spirits who took part in it. Meantime -the government continued to send out expeditions, -poorly provided in many ways, scarcely armed, barely -furnished with provisions, without means of making -their way through the unknown and dangerous regions -to which they were sent, but led by heroes.</p> - -<p>For forty years this work of investigation went on; -for forty years there took place a peopling of the new -West by men who were in very deed the bravest and -most adventurous of our brave and hardy border population. -They scattered over the plains and through -the mountains; they trapped the beaver and fought -the Indian and guided the explorers; and took to -themselves wives from among their very enemies, and -raised up broods of hardy offspring, some of whom we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7">7</a></span> -may yet meet as we journey through the cattle and the -farming country which used to be the far West.</p> - -<p>If ever any set of men played their part in subduing -the wilderness, and in ploughing the ground to receive -its seed of settlement, and to rear the crop of civilization -which is now being harvested, these men did that -work, and did it well. It is inconceivable that they -should have had the foresight to know what they were -doing; to imagine what it was that should come after -them. They did not think of that. Like the bold, -brave, hardy men of all times and of all countries, they -did the work that lay before them, bravely, faithfully, -and well, without any special thought of a distant future; -surely without any regrets for the past. As the -years rolled by, sickness, battle, the wild beast, starvation, -murder, death in some form, whether sudden or -lingering, struck them down singly or by scores; and -that a man had been “rubbed out,” was cause for a -sigh of regret or a word of sorrow from his companions, -who forthwith saddled up and started on some journey -of peril, where their fate might be what his had -been.</p> - -<p>At the end of forty years the first series of these exploratory -journeys came to an end. Gold was discovered -in California. The Mexican War took place. -This was not unexpected, for in the Southwest, about -the pueblos of Taos and Santa Fé, skirmishings and -quarrels between the Spanish-Indian inhabitants and -the rough mountaineers and teamsters from the States -had already given warning of a conflict soon to come.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8">8</a></span> -Now, well travelled wagon roads crossed the continent, -and a stream of westward immigration that -seemed to have no end. Before long there came Indian -wars. The immigrants imposed upon the savages, ill-treated -their wives, and were truculent and over-bearing -to their men. The Indians stole from the immigrants, -and drove off their horses. Then began a season of -conflict which, by one tribe and another, yet with -many intermissions, lasted almost down to our own -day. For the most part, these Indian wars are well -within the memory of living men. They have been -told of by those who saw them and were a part of -them.</p> - -<p>Of the travellers who marched westward over the -arid plains, during the period which intervened between -the return of Lewis and Clark and the establishment -of the old California trail, and of the earlier -northmen who trafficked for the beaver in Canada, a -few left records of their journeys; and of these records -many are most interesting reading, for they are simple, -faithful narratives of the every-day life of travellers -through unknown regions. To Americans they are of -especial interest, for they tell of a time when one-half -of the continent which now teems with population had -no inhabitants. The acres which now contribute freely -of food that supplies the world; the mountains which -now echo to the rattle of machinery, and the shot of the -blasts which lay bare millions worth of precious metal; -the waters which are churned by propeller blades, transporting -all the varied products of the land to their markets;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9">9</a></span> -the forests, which, alas! in too many sections, -no longer rustle to the breeze, but have been swept -away to make room for farms and town sites—all these -were then undisturbed and natural, as they had been for -a thousand years. Of the travellers who passed over -the vast stretches of prairie or mountain or woodland, -many saw the possibilities of this vast land, and prophesied -as to what might be wrought here, when, in the -dim and distant future, which none could yet foresee, -settlements should have pushed out from the east -and occupied the land. Other travellers declared that -these barren wastes would ever prove a barrier to -westward settlement.</p> - -<p>The books that were written concerning this new -land are mostly long out of print, or difficult of access; -yet each one of them is worth perusal. Of their authors, -some bear names still familiar, even though their -works have been lost sight of. Some of them made -discoveries of great interest in one branch or other of -science. At a later day some attained fame. Parkman’s -first essay in literature was his story of <cite>The California -and Oregon Trail</cite>, a fitting introduction to the -many fascinating volumes that he contributed later to -the early history of America; while in Washington -Irving, historian and essayist, was found a narrator -who should first tell connectedly of the fur trade of the -Northwest, and the adventures of Bonneville.</p> - -<p>Besides the books that were published in those times, -there were also written accounts, usually in the form -of diaries, or of notes kept from day to day of the happenings<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10">10</a></span> -in the life of this or that individual, which are -full of interest, because they give us pictures of one or -another phase of early travel, or hunting adventures, -or of trading with the Indians. Such private and personal -accounts, never intended for the public eye, are -to-day of extreme interest; and it is fortunate that an -American student, the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has given -us volumes which tell the stories of Lewis and Clark, -Pike and Garces, of Jacob Fowler, of Alexander Henry -the younger, and of Charles Larpenteur—contributions -to the history of the winning of the greater West whose -value is only now beginning to be appreciated.</p> - -<p>The chapters that follow contain much of history -which is old, but which, to the average American, will -prove absolutely new. One may imagine himself very -much interested in the old West, familiar with its history -and devoted to its study, but it is not until he has gone -through volume after volume of this ancient literature -that he realizes how greatly his knowledge lacks precision -and how much he still has to learn concerning -the country he inhabits.</p> - -<p>The work that the early travellers did, and the books -they published, showed to the people of their day the -conditions which existed in the far West, caused its -settlement, and led to the slow discovery of its mineral -treasures, and the slower appreciation of its possibilities -to the farmer and stock-raiser. Each of these volumes -had its readers, and of the readers of each we may -be sure that a few, or many, attracted by the graphic -descriptions of the new land, determined that they, too,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11">11</a></span> -would push out into it; they, too, would share in the -wealth which it spread out with lavish hand.</p> - -<p>It is all so long ago that we who are busy with a -thousand modern interests care little about who contributed -to the greatness of the country which we inhabit -and the prosperity which we enjoy. But there -was a day, which men alive may still remember, a day -of strong men, of brave women, hardy pioneers, and -true hearts, who ventured forth into the wilderness, -braving many dangers that were real, and many more -that were imaginary and yet to them seemed very real, -occupied the land, broke up the virgin soil, and peopled -a wilderness.</p> - -<p>How can the men and women of this generation—dwellers -in cities, or in peaceful villages, or on smiling -farms—realize what those pioneers did—how they -lived? He must have possessed stern resolution and -firm courage, who, to better the condition of those -dearest to him, risked their comfort—their very lives—on -the hazard of a settlement in the unknown wilderness. -The woman who accompanied this man bore an -equal part in the struggle, with devoted helpfulness -encouraging him in his strife with nature or cheering -him in defeat. If the school of self-reliance and hardihood -in which their children were reared gave them -little of the lore of books, it built strong characters -and made them worthy successors of courageous parents. -We may not comprehend how long and fierce was -the struggle with the elements, with the bristling forest, -with the unbroken soil; how hard and wearing the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12">12</a></span> -annoyance of wild beasts, the anxiety as to climate, -the fear of the prowling savage. Yet the work was -done, and to-day, from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, -we behold its results.</p> - -<p>Through hard experience these pioneers had come -to understand life. They possessed a due sense of proportion. -They saw the things which were essential; -they scorned those which were trivial. If, judged by -certain standards, they were rough and uncouth, if they -spoke a strange tongue, wore odd apparel, and lived -narrow lives, they were yet practising—albeit unconsciously—the -virtues—unflinching courage, sturdy independence -and helpfulness to their neighbors—which -have made America what it is.</p> - -<p>In the work of travel and exploration in that far -West of which we used to read, the figure which stands -out boldest and most heroic of all is unnamed. Bearded, -buckskin-clad, with rough fur cap, or kerchief tied -about his head, wearing powder-horn and ball-pouch, -and scalping-knife, and carrying his trusty Hawkins -rifle, the trapper—the <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">coureur des bois</i>—was the man -who did the first work in subduing the wild West, the -man who laid the foundations on which its present -civilization is built.</p> - -<p>All honor to this nameless hero. We shall meet him -often as we follow the westward trail.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13">13</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER HENRY</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">The</span> fur trade, which occupied many worthy men -during the eighteenth and first half of the nineteenth -century, forms a romantic and interesting -part of the early history of our country.</p> - -<p>The traders, usually of English and American parentage, -associated themselves with the French voyageurs, -or <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">coureurs des bois</i>, whom Masson describes as “those -heroes of the prairie and forest, regular mixtures of good -and evil, extravagant by nature, at the same time grave -and gay, cruel and compassionate; as credulous as -superstitious, and always irreligious.” Traders and -voyageurs alike suffered every privation, the cold of -winter, the heat of summer, and finally, by incredible -persistence, beat out the path of discovery during all -seasons, until it became a well-worn trail; all to penetrate -the great unknown, which might contain everything -that the trader desired. The man who lived -in those times and under those conditions was brave -and enduring without trying to be; he was alert and -quick to act, and unwearying in overcoming obstacles.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14">14</a></span> -Viewing him from the present day, we might call him -cruel and without feeling; but in those times men were -taught not to show their feelings. Their lives were -given in great part to surmounting enormous difficulties -of travel in unknown regions, and to establishing trade -relations with unknown tribes of Indians, who often -times were not disposed to be friendly. The fur trader -was in constant danger, not only from hostile Indians, -but often from starvation.</p> - -<p>Alexander Henry was one of these fur traders. He -came upon the scene just at the close of the French -régime. At twenty-one he had joined Amherst’s army, -not as a soldier, but in “a premature attempt to share in -the fur trade of Canada, directly on the conquest of the -country.” Wolfe’s victory at Quebec in the previous -year had aroused the English traders to the opportunity -presented of taking over the fur trade which the French -had opened up, and Amherst’s large army was watched -with great interest as it swept away the last remnant -of French control. Henry was well fitted for the life -that he intended to pursue, for he seems to have had -knowledge of the trading posts of Albany and New -York.</p> - -<p>On the 3d day of August, 1761, Henry despatched -his canoes from Montreal to Lachine on an expedition -to the regions west of the Great Lakes. Little did -he realize then that he should be gone from civilization -for sixteen years; that he should suffer and want but -survive; should see new and strange peoples, discover -rivers and lakes, build forts, to be used by others who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15">15</a></span> -were to follow him, trade with the natives, and finally -return to hear of the capture of Quebec by the Americans, -and then go to France to tell of his adventures.</p> - -<p>The route of the expedition was the usual one. Almost -immediately after leaving Lachine they came to -the broad stretch of Lake Saint Louis. At St. Anne’s -the men used to go to confession, as the voyageurs were -almost all Catholics, and at the same time offered up -their vows; “for the saint from which this parish derives -its name, and to whom its church is dedicated, is the -patroness of the Canadians in all their travels by water.” -“There is still a further custom to be observed on arriving -at Saint-Anne’s,” Henry relates, “which is that of -distributing eight gallons of rum to each canoe for consumption -during the voyage; nor is it less according to -custom to drink the whole of this liquor upon the spot. -The saint, therefore, and the priest were no sooner dismissed -than a scene of intoxication began in which my -men surpassed, if possible, the drunken Indian in singing, -fighting, and the display of savage gesture and -conceit.”</p> - -<p>Continuing up the river, and carrying over many portages, -they at last reached the Ottawa, and soon ascended -the Mattawa. Hitherto the French were the only white -men that had been known in this region. Their relations -with the Indians were friendly, and the Indians -were well aware of the enmity existing between the -French and the English. In the Lac des Chats Henry -met several canoes of Indians returning from their winter -hunt. They recognized him as an Englishman, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16">16</a></span> -cautioned him, declaring that the upper Indians would -kill him when they saw him, and said that the Englishmen -were crazy to go so far after beaver. The expedition -came at last to Lake Huron, which “lay stretched -across our horizon like an ocean.” It was, perhaps, -the largest water Henry had yet seen, and the prospect -was alarming, but the canoes rode with the ease of -a sea-bird, and his fears subsided. Coming to the island -called La Cloche, because “there is here a rock -standing on a plain, which, being struck, rings like a -bell,” he found Indians, with whom he traded, and to -whom he gave some rum, and who, recognizing him as -an Englishman, told his men that the Indians at Michilimackinac -would certainly kill him. On the advice of -his friend Campion, Henry changed his garb, assuming -the dress usually worn by the Canadians, and, smearing -his face with dirt and grease, believed himself thoroughly -disguised.</p> - -<p>Passing the mouth of the river Missisaki, he found -the Indians inhabiting the north side of Lake Superior -cultivating corn in small quantities.</p> - -<p>As he went on, the lake before him to the westward -seemed to become less and less broad, and at last he -could see the high back of the island of Michilimackinac, -commonly interpreted to mean the great turtle. -He found here a large village of Chippewas, and leaving -as soon as possible, pushed on about two leagues -farther to the fort, where there was a stockade of thirty -houses and a church.</p> - -<p>For years now Fort Michilimackinac had been a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17">17</a></span> -scene of great activity. Established by Father Marquette, -and kept up by succeeding missionaries, the -first men to brave the unknown terrors of the interior, it -was from here in 1731 that the brave and adventurous -Verendryes set out on their long journey to the Forks -of the Saskatchewan, and to the Missouri River.</p> - -<p>This was the half-way house for all the westward -pushing and eastward coming traders, and a meeting -place for all the tribes living on the Great Lakes. Here -were fur traders, trappers, voyageurs, and Indians, hurrying -to and fro, dressed in motley and picturesque attire. -Some were bringing in furs from long and perilous -journeys from the west, while others were on the eve of -departure westward, and others still were leaving for -Montreal. The scene must have been gay and active -almost beyond our powers to imagine. Henry was in -the midst of all this when the word came to him that a -band of Chippewas wished to speak with him; and, -however unwillingly, he was obliged to meet them, sixty -in number, headed by Minavavana, their chief. “They -walked in single file, each with a tomahawk in one hand -and scalping-knife in the other. Their bodies were -naked from the waist upward, except in a few examples, -where blankets were thrown loosely over the shoulders.” -Their faces were painted with charcoal, their -bodies with white clay, and feathers were tied in the -heads of some, and thrust through the noses of others. -Before the opening of the council, the chief held a conference -with Campion, asking how long it was since -Henry had left Montreal, and observing that the English<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18">18</a></span> -must be brave men and not afraid of death, since -they thus ventured to come fearlessly among their enemies. -After the pipe had been smoked, while Henry -“inwardly endured the tortures of suspense,” the chief -addressed him, saying:</p> - -<p>“Englishman, our father, the King of France, employed -our young men to make war upon your nation. -In this warfare many of them have been killed; and it -is our custom to retaliate, until such time as the spirits -of the slain are satisfied. But the spirits of the slain are -to be satisfied in either of two ways: the first is by the -spilling of the blood of the nation by which they fell; -the other, by <em>covering the bodies of the dead</em>, and thus -allaying the resentment of their relations. This is done -by making presents.</p> - -<p>“Englishman, your King has never sent us any -presents, nor entered into any treaty with us, wherefore -he and we are still at war; and, until he does these -things, we must consider that we have no other father -nor friend among the white men than the King of -France; but, for you, we have taken into consideration -that you have ventured your life among us, in the expectation -that we should not molest you. You do not -come armed, with an intention to make war; you come -in peace, to trade with us, and supply us with necessaries, -of which we are in much want. We shall regard -you, therefore, as a brother, and you may sleep -tranquilly, without fear of the Chippewas. As a token -of our friendship, we present you with this pipe to -smoke.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19">19</a></span> -In reply, Henry told them that their late father, the -King of France, had surrendered Canada to the King -of England, whom they should now regard as their -father, and that he, Henry, had come to furnish them -with what they needed. Things were thus very satisfactory, -and when the Chippewas went away they were -given a small quantity of rum.</p> - -<p>Henry was now busily at work assorting his goods, -preparatory to starting on his expedition, when two -hundred Ottawas entered the fort and demanded speech -with him. They insisted that he should give credit to -every one of their young men to the amount of fifty -beaver skins, but as this demand would have stripped -him of all his merchandise, he refused to comply with -the request. What the Ottawas might have done is -uncertain. They did nothing, because that very day -word was brought that a detachment of English soldiers, -sent to garrison the fort, was distant only five -miles, and would be there the next day. At daybreak -the Ottawas were seen preparing to depart, and by -sunrise not one of them was left in the fort.</p> - -<p>Although it was now the middle of September, the -traders sent off their canoes on the different trading -expeditions. These canoes were victualled largely -with Indian corn at the neighboring village of L’Arbre -Croche, occupied by the Ottawas. This corn was prepared -for use by boiling it in a strong lye which removed -the husk, after which it was pounded and dried, -making a meal. “The allowance for each man on the -voyage is a quart a day, and a bushel, with two pounds<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20">20</a></span> -of prepared fat, is reckoned to be a month’s subsistence. -No other allowance is made of any kind, not even of -salt, and bread is never thought of. The men, nevertheless, -are healthy, and capable of performing their -heavy labor. This mode of victualling is essential to the -trade, which, being pursued at great distances, and in -vessels so small as canoes, will not admit of the use of -other food. If the men were to be supplied with bread -and pork, the canoes could not carry a sufficiency for -six months; and the ordinary duration of the voyage is -not less than fourteen.”</p> - -<p>The food of the garrison consisted largely of small -game, partridges and hares, and of fish, especially -trout, whitefish, and sturgeon. Trout were caught with -set lines and bait, and whitefish with nets under the -ice. Should this fishery fail, it was necessary to purchase -grain, which, however, was very expensive, costing -forty livres, or forty shillings, Canadian currency; -though there was no money in Michilimackinac, and -the circulating medium consisted solely of furs. A -pound of beaver was worth about sixty cents, an otter -skin six shillings Canadian, and marten skins about -thirty cents each.</p> - -<p>Having wintered at Michilimackinac, Henry set out -in May for the Sault de Sainte-Marie. Here there was -a stockaded fort, with four houses, one of which was -occupied by Monsieur Cadotte, the interpreter, and his -Chippewa wife. The Indians had an important whitefish -fishery at the rapids, taking the fish in dip nets. In -the autumn Henry and the other whites did much<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21">21</a></span> -fishing; and in the winter they hunted, and took large -trout with the spear through the ice in this way: “In -order to spear trout under the ice, holes being first cut -of two yards in circumference, cabins of about two feet -in height are built over them of small branches of trees; -and these are further covered with skins so as to wholly -exclude the light. The design and result of this contrivance -is to render it practicable to discern objects in -the water at a very considerable depth; for the reflection -of light from the water gives that element an -opaque appearance, and hides all objects from the -eye at a small distance beneath its surface. A spear -head of iron is fastened on a pole of about ten feet in -length. This instrument is lowered into the water, -and the fisherman, lying upon his belly, with his head -under the cabin or cover, and therefore over the hole, -lets down the figure of a fish in wood and filled with -lead. Round the middle of the fish is tied a small pack -thread, and, when at the depth of ten fathoms, where -it is intended to be employed, it is made, by drawing -the string and by the simultaneous pressure of the water, -to move forward, after the manner of a real fish. -Trout and other large fish, deceived by its resemblance, -spring toward it to seize it, but, by a dexterous jerk -of the string, it is instantly taken out of their reach. -The decoy is now drawn nearer to the surface, and the -fish takes some time to renew the attack, during which -the spear is raised and held conveniently for striking. -On the return of the fish, the spear is plunged into its -back, and, the spear being barbed, it is easily drawn out<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22">22</a></span> -of the water. So completely do the rays of the light -pervade the element that in three-fathom water I have -often seen the shadows of the fish on the bottom, following -them as they moved; and this when the ice itself -was two feet in thickness.”</p> - -<p>The burning of the post at the Sault forced all hands -to return next winter to Michilimackinac, where the -early spring was devoted to the manufacture of maple -sugar, an important article of diet in the northern -country.</p> - -<p>That spring Indians gathered about the fort in such -large numbers as to make Henry fearful that something -unusual lay behind the concourse. He spoke about it -to the commanding officer, who laughed at him for his -timidity. The Indians seemed to be passing to and fro -in the most friendly manner, selling their fur and attending -to their business altogether in a natural way.</p> - -<p>About a year before an Indian named Wawatam had -come into Henry’s house, expressed a strong liking for -him, and, having explained that years before, after a -fast, he had dreamed of adopting an Englishman as -his son, brother, and friend, told Henry that in him -he recognized the person whom the Great Spirit had -pointed out to him for a brother, and that he hoped -Henry would become one of his family, and at the same -time he made him a large present. Henry accepted -these friendly overtures, and made a handsome present -in return, and the two parted for the time.</p> - -<p>Henry had almost forgotten his brother, when, on -the second day of June, twelve months later, Wawatam<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23">23</a></span> -again came to his house and expressed great regret -that Henry had returned from the Sault. Wawatam -stated that he intended to go there at once, and begged -Henry to accompany him. He asked, also, whether the -commandant had heard bad news, saying that during -the winter he himself had been much disturbed by the -noises of evil birds, and that there were many Indians -around the fort who had never shown themselves within -it. Both the chief and his wife strove earnestly to -persuade Henry to accompany them at once, but he -paid little attention to their requests, and they finally -took their departure, very much depressed—in fact, -even weeping. The next day Henry received from a -Chippewa an invitation to come out and see the great -game of baggatiway, or lacrosse, which his people were -going to play that day with the Sacs. But as a canoe -was about to start for Montreal, Henry was busy writing -letters, and although urged by a friend to go out -and meet another canoe just arrived from Detroit, he -nevertheless remained in his room, writing. Suddenly -he heard the Indian war-cry, and, looking out of the -window, saw a crowd of Indians within the fort furiously -cutting down and scalping every Englishman they -found. He noticed, too, many of the Canadian inhabitants -of the fort quietly looking on, neither trying to -stop the Indians nor suffering injury from them; and -from the fact that these people were not being attacked, -he conceived the hope of finding security in one of their -houses. This is as he tells it:</p> - -<p>“Between the yard-door of my own house and that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24">24</a></span> -of M. Langlade, my next neighbor, there was only a -low fence, over which I easily climbed. At my entrance -I found the whole family at the windows, gazing at the -scene of blood before them. I addressed myself immediately -to M. Langlade, begging that he would put me -into some place of safety until the heat of the affair -should be over, an act of charity by which he might -perhaps preserve me from the general massacre; but, -while I uttered my petition, M. Langlade, who had -looked for a moment at me, turned again to the window, -shrugging his shoulders and intimating that he -could do nothing for me—‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Que voudriez-vous que j’en -ferais?</i>’</p> - -<p>“This was a moment for despair; but the next a -Pani woman, a slave of M. Langlade’s, beckoned to me -to follow her. She brought me to a door, which she -opened, desiring me to enter, and telling me that it led -to the garret, where I must go and conceal myself. I -joyfully obeyed her directions and she, having followed -me up to the garret door, locked it after me, and with -great presence of mind took away the key.</p> - -<p>“This shelter obtained, if shelter I could hope to find -it, I was naturally anxious to know what might still be -passing without. Through an aperture which afforded -me a view of the area of the fort, I beheld, in shapes the -foulest and most terrible, the ferocious triumphs of barbarian -conquerors. The dead were scalped and mangled; -the dying were writhing and shrieking under the -unsatiated knife and tomahawk, and, from the bodies -of some ripped open, their butchers were drinking the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25">25</a></span> -blood, scooped up in the hollow of joined hands and -quaffed amid shouts of rage and victory. I was shaken, -not only with horror, but with fear. The sufferings -which I witnessed, I seemed on the point of experiencing. -No long time elapsed before every one being -destroyed who could be found, there was a general cry -of ‘All is finished!’ At the same instant I heard some -of the Indians enter the house in which I was.</p> - -<p>“The garret was separated from the room below only -by a layer of single boards, at once the flooring of the -one and the ceiling of the other. I could therefore hear -everything that passed; and, the Indians no sooner in -than they inquired whether or not any Englishmen -were in the house? M. Langlade replied that ‘He -could not say—he did not know of any’—answers in -which he did not exceed the truth, for the Pani woman -had not only hidden me by stealth, but had kept my -secret and her own; M. Langlade was therefore, as I -presume, as far from a wish to destroy me as he was -careless about saving me, when he added to these answers -that ‘They might examine for themselves, and -would soon be satisfied as to the object of their question.’ -Saying this, he brought them to the garret door.</p> - -<p>“The state of my mind will be imagined. Arrived -at the door, some delay was occasioned by the absence -of the key, and a few moments were thus allowed me -in which to look around for a hiding place. In one -corner of the garret was a heap of vessels of birch-bark, -used in maple-sugar making.</p> - -<p>“The door was unlocked, and opening, and the Indians<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26">26</a></span> -ascending the stairs, before I had completely crept -into a small opening which presented itself at one end -of the heap. An instant after four Indians entered the -room, all armed with tomahawks, and all besmeared -with blood upon every part of their bodies.</p> - -<p>“The die appeared to be cast. I could scarcely -breathe: but I thought that the throbbing of my heart -occasioned a noise loud enough to betray me. The -Indians walked in every direction about the garret, and -one of them approached me so closely that at a particular -moment, had he put forth his hand, he must have -touched me. Still, I remained undiscovered, a circumstance -to which the dark color of my clothes and the -want of light, in a room which had no window, and in -the corner in which I was, must have contributed. In -a word, after taking several turns in the room, during -which they told M. Langlade how many they had -killed and how many scalps they had taken, they returned -down-stairs, and I with sensations not to be expressed -heard the door, which was the barrier between -me and fate, locked for the second time.</p> - -<p>“There was a feather bed on the floor, and on this, -exhausted as I was by the agitation of my mind, I threw -myself down and fell asleep. In this state I remained -till the dusk of the evening, when I was awakened by -a second opening of the door. The person that now -entered was M. Langlade’s wife, who was much surprised -at finding me, but advised me not to be uneasy, -observing that the Indians had killed most of the English, -but that she hoped I might myself escape. A<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27">27</a></span> -shower of rain having begun to fall, she had come to -stop a hole in the roof. On her going away, I begged -her to send me a little water to drink, which she did.</p> - -<p>“As night was now advancing, I continued to lie on -the bed, ruminating on my condition but unable to discover -a resource from which I could hope for life. A -flight to Detroit had no probable chance of success. -The distance from Michilimackinac was four hundred -miles; I was without provisions, and the whole length -of the road lay through Indian countries, countries of -an enemy in arms, where the first man whom I should -meet would kill me. To stay where I was threatened -nearly the same issue. As before, fatigue of mind and -not tranquillity, suspended my cares and procured me -further sleep....</p> - -<p>“The respite which sleep afforded me during the -night was put an end to by the return of morning. I -was again on the rack of apprehension. At sunrise I -heard the family stirring, and, presently after, Indian -voices, informing M. Langlade that they had not found -my hapless self among the dead, and that they supposed -me to be somewhere concealed. M. Langlade -appeared, from what followed, to be by this time acquainted -with the place of my retreat, of which, no -doubt, he had been informed by his wife. The poor -woman, as soon as the Indians mentioned me, declared -to her husband, in the French tongue, that he should -no longer keep me in his house, but deliver me up to -my pursuers; giving as a reason for this measure that -should the Indians discover his instrumentality in my<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28">28</a></span> -concealment they might revenge it on her children, -and that it was better that I should die than they. M. -Langlade resisted at first this sentence of his wife’s; -but soon suffered her to prevail, informing the Indians -that he had been told I was in his house; that I had -come there without his knowledge, and that he would -put me into their hands. This was no sooner expressed -than he began to ascend the stairs, the Indians following -upon his heels.</p> - -<p>“I now resigned myself to the fate with which I was -menaced; and regarding every attempt at concealment -as vain, I arose from the bed and presented myself full -in view to the Indians who were entering the room. -They were all in a state of intoxication, and entirely -naked, except about the middle. One of them, named -Wenniway, whom I had previously known and who -was upward of six feet in height, had his entire face and -body covered with charcoal and grease, only that a -white spot of two inches in diameter encircled either -eye. This man, walking up to me, seized me with one -hand by the collar of the coat, while in the other he held -a large carving knife, as if to plunge it into my breast; -his eyes, meanwhile, were fixed steadfastly on mine. At -length, after some seconds of the most anxious suspense -he dropped his arm, saying, ‘I won’t kill you!’ To -this he added that he had been frequently engaged in -wars against the English, and had brought away many -scalps; that, on a certain occasion, he had lost a brother, -whose name was Musingon, and that I should be called -after him.”</p> - -<div id="ip_28" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24.1875em;"> - <img src="images/i_028.jpg" width="387" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">“I NOW RESIGNED MYSELF TO THE FATE WITH WHICH I WAS -MENACED.”</div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29">29</a></span> -Several times within the next two or three days Henry -had narrow escapes from death at the hands of drunken -Indians; but finally his captors, having stripped him -of all his clothing save an old shirt, took him, with -other prisoners, and set out for the Isles du Castor, in -Lake Michigan.</p> - -<p>At the village of L’Arbre Croche, the Ottawas forcibly -took away their prisoners from the Chippewas, but the -Chippewas made violent complaint, while the Ottawas -explained to the prisoners that they had taken them -from the Chippewas to save their lives, it being the practice -of the Chippewas to eat their enemies, in order to -give them courage in battle. A council was held between -the Chippewas and Ottawas, the result of which -was that the prisoners were handed over to their original -captors. But before they had left this place, while -Henry was sitting in the lodge with his captor, his friend -and brother, Wawatam, suddenly entered. As he -passed Henry he shook hands with him, but went -toward the great chief, by whom he sat down, and after -smoking, rose again and left the lodge, saying to Henry -as he passed him, “Take courage.”</p> - -<p>A little later, Wawatam and his wife entered the -lodge, bringing large presents, which they threw down -before the chiefs. Wawatam explained that Henry was -his brother, and therefore a relative to the whole tribe, -and asked that he be turned over to him, which was -done.</p> - -<p>Henry now went with Wawatam to his lodge, and -thereafter lived with him. The Indians were very much<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30">30</a></span> -afraid that the English would send to revenge the -killing of their troops, and they shortly moved to the -Island of Michilimackinac. A little later a brigade of -canoes, containing goods and abundant liquor, was -captured: and Wawatam, fearing the results of the -drink on the Indians, took Henry away and concealed -him in a cave, where he remained for two days.</p> - -<p>The head chief of the village of Michilimackinac -now recommended to Wawatam and Henry that, on account -of the frequent arrival of Indians from Montreal, -some of whom had lost relatives or friends in the war, -Henry should be dressed like an Indian, and the wisdom -of this advice was recognized. His hair was cut -off, his head shaved, except for a scalp-lock, his face -painted, and Indian clothing given him. Wawatam -helped him to visit Michilimackinac, where Henry -found one of his clerks, but none of his property. Soon -after this they moved away to Wawatam’s wintering -ground, which Henry was very willing to visit, because -in the main camp he was constantly subjected to insults -from the Indians who knew of his race.</p> - -<p>Henry writes fully of the customs of the Indians, of -the habits of many of the animals which they pursued, -and of the life he led. He says that during this winter -“Raccoon hunting was my more particular and daily -employ. I usually went out at the first dawn of day, -and seldom returned till sunset, or till I had laden myself -with as many animals as I could carry. By degrees -I became familiarized with this kind of life; and -had it not been for the idea, of which I could not divest<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31">31</a></span> -my mind, that I was living among savages, and for the -whispers of a lingering hope that I should one day be -released from it, or if I could have forgotten that I had -ever been otherwise than as I then was, I could have -enjoyed as much happiness in this as in any other situation.”</p> - -<p>Among the interesting hunting occurrences narrated -is one of the killing of a bear, and of the ceremonies -subsequent to this killing performed by the Indians. -He says:</p> - -<p>“In the course of the month of January I happened -to observe that the trunk of a very large pine tree was -much torn by the claws of a bear, made both in going -up and down. On further examination, I saw that there -was a large opening in the upper part, near which the -smaller branches were broken. From these marks, and -from the additional circumstance that there were no -tracks in the snow, there was reason to believe that a -bear lay concealed in the tree.</p> - -<p>“On returning to the lodge, I communicated my discovery, -and it was agreed that all the family should go -together in the morning to assist in cutting down the -tree, the girth of which was not less than three fathom. -Accordingly, in the morning we surrounded the tree, -both men and women, as many at a time as could conveniently -work at it, and here we toiled like beaver till -the sun went down. This day’s work carried us about -half way through the trunk; and the next morning we -renewed the attack, continuing it till about two o’clock -in the afternoon, when the tree fell to the ground. For<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32">32</a></span> -a few minutes everything remained quiet, and I feared -that all our expectations were disappointed; but, as I -advanced to the opening, there came out, to the great -satisfaction of all our party, a bear of extraordinary -size, which, before she had proceeded many yards, I -shot.</p> - -<p>“The bear being dead, all my assistants approached, -and all, but more particularly my old mother (as I was -wont to call her), took her head in their hands, stroking -and kissing it several times, begging a thousand pardons -for taking away her life; calling her their relation and -grandmother, and requesting her not to lay the fault -upon them, since it was truly an Englishman that had -put her to death.</p> - -<p>“This ceremony was not of long duration, and if it -was I that killed their grandmother, they were not themselves -behindhand in what remained to be performed. -The skin being taken off, we found the fat in several -places six inches deep. This, being divided into two -parts, loaded two persons, and the flesh parts were as -much as four persons could carry. In all, the carcass -must have exceeded five hundredweight.</p> - -<p>“As soon as we reached the lodge, the bear’s head -was adorned with all the trinkets in the possession of -the family, such as silver arm-bands and wrist-bands, -and belts of wampum, and then laid upon a scaffold set -up for its reception within the lodge. Near the nose -was placed a large quantity of tobacco.</p> - -<p>“The next morning no sooner appeared than preparations -were made for a feast to the manes. The lodge<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33">33</a></span> -was cleaned and swept, and the head of the bear lifted -up and a new stroud blanket, which had never been -used before, spread under it. The pipes were now lit, -and Wawatam blew tobacco smoke into the nostrils of -the bear, telling me to do the same, and thus appease -the anger of the bear on account of my having killed -her. I endeavored to persuade my benefactor and -friendly adviser that she no longer had any life, and -assured him that I was under no apprehension from -her displeasure; but the first proposition obtained no -credit, and the second gave but little satisfaction.</p> - -<p>“At length, the feast being ready, Wawatam commenced -a speech, resembling, in many things, his -address to the manes of his relations and departed -companions, but having this peculiarity, that he here -deplored the necessity under which men labored thus -to destroy their friends. He represented, however, that -the misfortune was unavoidable, since without doing -so they could by no means subsist. The speech ended, -we all ate heartily of the bear’s flesh, and even the head -itself, after remaining three days on the scaffold, was -put into the kettle.</p> - -<p>“It is only the female bear that makes her winter -lodging in the upper parts of trees, a practice by which -her young are secured from the attacks of wolves and -other animals. She brings forth in the winter season, -and remains in her lodge till the cubs have gained some -strength.</p> - -<p>“The male always lodges in the ground, under the -roots of trees. He takes to this habitation as soon as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34">34</a></span> -the snow falls, and remains there till it has disappeared. -The Indians remark that the bear comes out in the -spring with the same fat which he carried in in the autumn; -but, after exercise of only a few days, becomes -lean. Excepting for a short part of the season, the -male lives constantly alone.</p> - -<p>“The fat of our bear was melted down, and the oil -filled six porcupine skins. A part of the meat was cut -into strips and fire-dried, after which it was put into -the vessels containing the oil, where it remained in perfect -preservation until the middle of summer.”</p> - -<p>When spring came, and they returned to the more -travelled routes and met other Indians, it was seen that -these people were all anxious lest the English should -this summer avenge the outbreak of the Indians of the -previous year. Henry was exceedingly anxious to escape -from his present life, and his brother was willing -that he should go, but this appeared difficult. At last, -however, a Canadian canoe, carrying Madame Cadotte, -came along, and this good woman was willing to -assist Henry so far as she could. He and his brother -parted rather sadly, and Henry, now under the guise of -a Canadian, took a paddle in Madame Cadotte’s -canoe. She took him safely to the Sault, where he was -welcomed by Monsieur Cadotte, whose great influence -among the Indians was easily sufficient to protect him. -Soon after this there came an embassy from Sir William -Johnson, calling the Indians to come to Niagara and -make peace with the English; and after consulting the -Great Turtle, who was the guardian spirit of the Chippewas,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35">35</a></span> -a number of young men volunteered to go to -Niagara, and among them Henry.</p> - -<p>After a long voyage they reached Niagara, where -Henry was very kindly received by Sir William Johnson -and subsequently was appointed by General Bradstreet, -commander of an Indian battalion of ninety-six -men, among whom were many of the Indians who, not -long before, had been ready and eager to kill him. -With this command he moved westward, and after peace -had been made with Pontiac at Detroit, with a detachment -of troops reached Michilimackinac, where he -recovered a part of his property.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36">36</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER HENRY</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">The</span> French Government had established regulations -governing the fur trade in Canada, and in -1765, when Henry made his second expedition, -some features of the old system were still preserved. No -person was permitted to enter the countries lying north-west -of Detroit unless furnished with a license, and -military commanders had the privilege of granting to -any individual the exclusive trade of particular districts.</p> - -<p>At this time beaver were worth two shillings and sixpence -per pound; otter skins, six shillings each; martens, -one shilling and sixpence; all this in nominal -Michilimackinac currency, although here fur was still -the current coin. Henry loaded his four canoes with -the value of ten thousand pounds’ weight of good and -merchantable beaver. For provision he purchased fifty -bushels of corn, at ten pounds of beaver per bushel. -He took into partnership Monsieur Cadotte, and leaving -Michilimackinac July 14, and Sault Sainte-Marie the -26th, he proceeded to his wintering ground at Chagouemig.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37">37</a></span> -On the 19th of August he reached the river -Ontonagan, notable for its abundance of native copper, -which the Indians used to manufacture into spoons -and bracelets for themselves. This they did by the -mere process of hammering it out. Not far beyond -this river he met Indians, to whom he gave credit. -“The prices were for a stroud blanket, ten beaver skins; -for a white blanket, eight; a pound of powder, two; a -pound of shot or of ball, one; a gun, twenty; an axe -of one pound weight, two; a knife, one.” As the value -of a skin was about one dollar, the prices to the Indians -were fairly high.</p> - -<p>Chagouemig, where Henry wintered, is now known -as Chequamegon. It is in Wisconsin, a bay which -partly divides Bayfield from Ashland county, and seems -always to have been a great gathering place for Indians. -There were now about fifty lodges here, making, with -those who had followed Henry, about one hundred -families. All were poor, their trade having been interfered -with by the English invasion of Canada and by -Pontiac’s war. Henry was obliged to distribute goods -to them to the amount of three thousand beaver skins, -and this done, the Indians separated to look for fur. -Henry sent a clerk to Fond du Lac with two loaded -canoes; Fond du Lac being, roughly, the site of the -present city of Duluth. As soon as Henry was fairly -settled, he built a house, and began to collect fish from -the lake as food for the winter. Before long he had -two thousand trout and whitefish, the former frequently -weighing fifty pounds each, the latter from four to six.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38">38</a></span> -They were preserved by being hung up by the tail and -did not thaw during the winter. When the bay froze -over, Henry amused himself by spearing trout, and -sometimes caught a hundred in a day, each weighing -on an average twenty pounds.</p> - -<p>He had some difficulty with the first hunting party -which brought furs. The men crowded into his house -and demanded rum, and when he refused it, they threatened -to take all he had. His men were frightened and -all abandoned him. He got hold of a gun, however, -and on threatening to shoot the first who should lay -hands on anything, the disturbance began to subside -and was presently at an end. He now buried the liquor -that he had, and when the Indians were finally persuaded -that he had none to give them, they went and -came very peaceably, paying their debts and purchasing -goods.</p> - -<p>The ice broke up in April, and by the middle of May -the Indians began to come in with their furs, so that -by the close of the spring Henry found himself with a -hundred and fifty packs of beaver, weighing a hundred -pounds each, besides twenty-five packs of otter and -marten skins. These he took to Michilimackinac, accompanied -by fifty canoes of Indians, who still had a -hundred packs of beaver that they did not sell. It appears, -therefore, that Henry’s ten thousand pounds of -beaver brought him fifty per cent. profit in beaver, besides -the otter and the marten skins which he had.</p> - -<p>On his way back he went up the Ontonagan River -to see the celebrated mass of copper there, which he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39">39</a></span> -estimated to weigh no less than five tons. So pure was -it that with an axe he chopped off a piece weighing a -hundred pounds. This great mass of copper, which -had been worked at for no one knows how long by Indians -and by early explorers, lay there for eighty years -after Henry saw it; and finally, in 1843, was removed -to the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. It was -then estimated to weigh between three and four tons, -and the cost of transporting it to the national capital -was about $3,500.</p> - -<p>The following winter was passed at Sault Sainte-Marie, -and was rather an unhappy one, as the fishery -failed, and there was great suffering from hunger. -Canadians and Indians gathered there from the surrounding -country, driven in by lack of food. Among the -incidents of the winter was the arrival of a young man -who had been guilty of cannibalism. He was killed by -the Indians, not so much as punishment, as from the -fear that he would kill and eat some of their children.</p> - -<p>A journey to a neighboring bay resulted in no great -catch of fish, and returning to the Sault, Henry started -for Michilimackinac. At the first encampment, an -hour’s fishing procured them seven trout, of from ten -to twenty pounds’ weight. A little later they met a -camp of Indians who had fish, and shared with them; -and the following day Henry killed a caribou, by which -they camped and on which they subsisted for two days.</p> - -<p>The following winter Henry stopped at Michipicoten, -on the north side of Lake Superior, and about a hundred -and fifty miles from the Sault. Here there were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40">40</a></span> -a few people known as <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Gens des Terres</i>, a tribe of Algonquins, -living in middle Canada, and ranging from the -Athabasca country east to Lake Temiscamingue. A -few of them still live near the St. Maurice River, in the -Province of Quebec. These people, though miserably -poor, and occupying a country containing very few -animals, had a high reputation for honesty and worth. -Therefore, Henry gave to every man credit for one hundred -beaver skins, and to every woman thirty—a very -large credit.</p> - -<p>There was some game in this country, a few caribou, -and some hares and partridges. The hills were -well wooded with sugar-maples, and from these, when -spring came, Henry made sugar; and for a time this -was their sole provision, each man consuming a pound -a day, desiring no other food, and being visibly nourished -by the sugar. Soon after this, wildfowl appeared -in such abundance that subsistence for fifty could -without difficulty be shot daily by one man, but this -lasted only for a week, by which time the birds all departed. -By the end of May all to whom Henry had -advanced goods returned, and of the two thousand -skins for which he had given them credit, not thirty remained -unpaid. The small loss that he did suffer was -occasioned by the death of one of the Indians, whose -family brought all the skins of which he died possessed, -and offered to contribute among themselves the -balance.</p> - -<p>The following winter was also to be passed at Michipicoten, -and in the month of October, after all the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41">41</a></span> -Indians had received their goods and had gone away, -Henry set out for the Sault on a visit. He took little -provision, only a quart of corn for each person.</p> - -<p>On the first night they camped on an island sacred to -Nanibojou, one of the Chippewa gods, and failed to -offer the tobacco which an Indian would always have -presented to the spirit. In the night a violent storm -arose which continued for three days. When it abated -on the third day they went to examine the net which -they had set for fish, and found it gone. The wind was -ahead to return to Michipicoten, and they steered for -the Sault; but that night the wind shifted and blew a -gale for nine days following. They soon began to -starve, and though Henry hunted faithfully, he killed -nothing more than two snowbirds. One of his men informed -him that the other two had proposed to kill and -eat a young woman, whom they were taking to the -Sault, and when taxed with the proposition, these two -men had the hardihood to acknowledge it. The next -morning, Henry, still searching for food, found on a -rock the <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">tripe de roche</i>, a lichen, which, when cooked, -yields a jelly which will support life. The discovery -of this food, on which they supported themselves thereafter, -undoubtedly saved the life of the poor woman. -When they embarked on the evening of the ninth day -they were weak and miserable; but, luckily, the next -morning, meeting two canoes of Indians, they received -a gift of fish, and at once landed to feast on them.</p> - -<p>In the spring of 1769, and for some years afterward, -Henry turned his attention more or less to mines. He<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42">42</a></span> -visited the Ile de Maurepas, said to contain shining -rocks and stones of rare description, but was much disappointed -in the island, which seemed commonplace -enough. A year later Mr. Baxter, with whom Henry -had formed a partnership for copper mining, returned, -and during the following winter, at Sault Sainte-Marie, -they built vessels for navigating the lakes. Henry -had heard of an island (Caribou Island) in Lake Superior -described as covered with a heavy yellow sand -like gold-dust, and guarded by enormous snakes. With -Mr. Baxter he searched for this island and finally -found it, but neither yellow sands nor snakes nor gold. -Hawks there were in abundance, and one of them -picked Henry’s cap from his head. There were also -caribou, and they killed thirteen, and found many -complete and undisturbed skeletons. Continuing their -investigations into the mines about the lakes, they -found abundant copper ore, and some supposed to contain -silver. But their final conclusion was that the -cost of carrying the copper ore to Montreal must exceed -its marketable value.</p> - -<p>In June, 1775, Henry left Sault Sainte-Marie with four -large canoes and twelve small ones, carrying goods and -provisions to the value of three thousand pounds sterling. -He passed west, over the Grand Portage, entered -Lac à la Pluie, passed down to the Lake of the -Woods, and finally reached Lake Winipegon. Here -there were Crees, variously known as Christinaux, Kinistineaux, -Killistinoes, and Killistinaux. Lake Winipegon -is sometimes called the Lake of the Crees. These<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43">43</a></span> -people were primitive. Almost entirely naked, the -whole body was painted with red ochre; the head was -wholly shaved, or the hair was plucked out, except a -spot on the crown, where it grew long and was rolled -and gathered into a tuft; the ears were pierced, and -filled with bones of fishes and land animals. The -women, on the other hand, had long hair, which was -gathered into a roll on either side of the head above -the ear, and was covered with a piece of skin, painted -or ornamented with beads of various colors. The traditions -of the Cheyennes of to-day point back to precisely -similar methods of dressing the hair of the women and -of painting the men.</p> - -<p>The Crees were friendly, and gave the traveller presents -of wild rice and dried meat. He kept on along the -lake and soon joined Peter Pond, a well-known trader -of early days. A little later, in early September, the -two Frobishers and Mr. Patterson overtook them. On -the 1st of October they reached the River de Bourbon, -now known as the Saskatchewan, and proceeded up -it, using the tow-line to overcome the Great Rapids. -They passed on into Lake de Bourbon, now Cedar Lake, -and by old Fort Bourbon, built by the Sieur de Vérendrye. -At the mouth of the Pasquayah River they found -a village of Swampy Crees, the chief of whom expressed -his gratification at their coming, but remarked that, as -it would be possible for him to kill them all when they -returned, he expected them to be extremely liberal with -their presents. He then specified what it was that he -desired, namely, three casks of gunpowder, four bags of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44">44</a></span> -shot and ball, two bales of tobacco, three kegs of rum, -and three guns, together with many smaller articles. -Finally he declared that he was a peaceable man, and -always tried to get along without quarrels. The traders -were obliged to submit to being thus robbed, and -passed on up the river to Cumberland House. Here -they separated, M. Cadotte going on with four canoes -to the Fort des Prairies, a name given then and later to -many of the trading posts built on the prairie. This -one is probably that Fort des Prairies which was situated -just below the junction of the north and south forks of -the Saskatchewan River, and was known as Fort Nippewen. -Mr. Pond, with two canoes, went to Fort -Dauphin, on Lake Dauphin, while the Messrs. Frobisher -and Henry agreed to winter together on Beaver -Lake. Here they found a good place for a post, and -were soon well lodged. Fish were abundant, and the -post soon assumed the appearance of a settlement. -Owing to the lateness of the season, their canoes could -not be buried in the ground, as was the common practice, -and they were therefore placed on scaffolds. The -fishing here was very successful, and moose were killed. -The Indians brought in beaver and bear’s meat, and -some skins for sale.</p> - -<p>In January, 1776, Henry left the fort on Beaver Lake, -attended by two men, and provided with dried meat, -frozen fish, and cornmeal, to make an excursion over -the plains, “or, as the French denominate them, the -Prairies, or Meadows.” There was snow on the ground, -and the baggage was hauled by the men on sledges.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45">45</a></span> -The cold was bitter, but they were provided with “ox -skins, which the traders call buffalo robes.”</p> - -<p>Beaver Lake was in the wooded country, and, indeed, -all Henry’s journeyings hitherto had been through a -region that was timbered; but here, striking south and -west, by way of Cumberland House, he says, “I was -not far advanced before the country betrayed some approaches -to the characteristic nakedness of the plains. -The wood dwindled away, both in size and quantity, -so that it was with difficulty we could collect sufficient -for making a fire, and without fire we could not drink, -for melted snow was our only resource, the ice on the -river being too thick to be penetrated by the axe.” -Moreover, the weather was bitterly cold, and after a -time provisions grew scanty. No game was seen and -no trace of anything human. The men began to starve -and to grow weak, but as tracks of elk and moose were -seen, Henry cheered them up by telling them that they -would certainly kill something before long.</p> - -<p>“On the twentieth, the last remains of our provisions -were expended; but I had taken the precaution to conceal -a cake of chocolate in reserve for an occasion like -that which was now arrived. Toward evening my men, -after walking the whole day, began to lose their strength, -but we nevertheless kept on our feet till it was late, and -when we encamped I informed them of the treasure -which was still in store. I desired them to fill the kettle -with snow, and argued with them the while that the -chocolate would keep us alive for five days at least, an -interval in which we should surely meet with some Indian<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46">46</a></span> -at the chase. Their spirits revived at the suggestion, -and, the kettle being filled with two gallons of -water, I put into it one square of the chocolate. The -quantity was scarcely sufficient to alter the color of the -water, but each of us drank half a gallon of the warm -liquor, by which we were much refreshed, and in its -enjoyment felt no more of the fatigues of the day. In -the morning we allowed ourselves a similar repast, after -finishing which we marched vigorously for six hours. -But now the spirits of my companions again deserted -them, and they declared that they neither would, nor -could, proceed any further. For myself, they advised -me to leave them, and accomplish the journey as I -could; but for themselves, they said, that they must -die soon, and might as well die where they were as -anywhere else.</p> - -<p>“While things were in this melancholy posture, I -filled the kettle and boiled another square of chocolate. -When prepared I prevailed upon my desponding companions -to return to their warm beverage. On taking -it they recovered inconceivably, and, after smoking a -pipe, consented to go forward. While their stomachs -were comforted by the warm water they walked well, -but as evening approached fatigue overcame them, and -they relapsed into their former condition, and, the chocolate -being now almost entirely consumed, I began to -fear that I must really abandon them, for I was able -to endure more hardship than they, and, had it not -been for keeping company with them, I could have -advanced double the distance within the time which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47">47</a></span> -had been spent. To my great joy, however, the usual -quantity of warm water revived them.</p> - -<p>“For breakfast the next morning I put the last square -of chocolate into the kettle, and, our meal finished, we -began our march in but very indifferent spirits. We -were surrounded by large herds of wolves which sometimes -came close upon us, and who knew, as we were -prone to think, the extremity in which we were, and -marked us for their prey; but I carried a gun, and this -was our protection. I fired several times, but unfortunately -missed at each, for a morsel of wolf’s flesh -would have afforded us a banquet.</p> - -<p>“Our misery, nevertheless, was still nearer its end -than we imagined, and the event was such as to give -one of the innumerable proofs that despair is not made -for man. Before sunset we discovered on the ice some -remains of the bones of an elk left there by the wolves. -Having instantly gathered them, we encamped, and, -filling our kettle, prepared ourselves a meal of strong -and excellent soup. The greater part of the night was -passed in boiling and regaling on our booty, and early -in the morning we felt ourselves strong enough to proceed.</p> - -<p>“This day, the twenty-fifth, we found the borders -of the plains reaching to the very banks of the river, -which were two hundred feet above the level of the ice. -Water marks presented themselves at twenty feet above -the actual level.</p> - -<p>“Want had lost his dominion over us. At noon we -saw the horns of a red deer [an elk or wapiti] standing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48">48</a></span> -in the snow on the river. On examination we found -that the whole carcass was with them, the animal having -broke through the ice in the beginning of the winter in -attempting to cross the river too early in the season, -while his horns, fastening themselves in the ice, had -prevented him from sinking. By cutting away the ice -we were enabled to lay bare a part of the back and -shoulders, and thus procure a stock of food amply sufficient -for the rest of our journey. We accordingly -encamped and employed our kettle to good purpose, -forgot all our misfortunes, and prepared to walk with -cheerfulness the twenty leagues which, as we reckoned, -still lay between ourselves and Fort des Prairies.</p> - -<p>“Though the deer must have been in this situation -ever since the month of November, yet its flesh was -perfectly good. Its horns alone were five foot high or -more, and it will therefore not appear extraordinary -that they should be seen above the snow.</p> - -<p>“On the twenty-seventh, in the morning, we discovered -the print of snow-shoes, demonstrating that several -persons had passed that way the day before. These -were the first marks of other human feet than our own -which we had seen since our leaving Cumberland House, -and it was much to feel that we had fellow-creatures -in the wide waste surrounding us. In the evening we -reached the fort.”</p> - -<p>At Fort des Prairies, Henry saw more provisions than -he had ever before dreamed of. In one heap he saw -fifty tons of buffalo meat, so fat that the men could -hardly find meat lean enough to eat. Immediately<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49">49</a></span> -south of this plains country, which he was on the edge -of, was the land of the Osinipoilles [Assiniboines, a -tribe of the Dakota or Sioux nation], and some of -these people being at the fort, Henry determined to -visit them at their village, and on the 5th of February -set out to do so. The Indians whom they accompanied -carried their baggage on dog travois. They used snow-shoes -and travelled swiftly, and at night camped in the -shelter of a little grove of wood. There were fourteen -people in the tent in which Henry slept that night, but -these were not enough to keep each other warm. They -started each morning at daylight, and travelled as long -as they could, and over snow that was often four feet -deep. During the journey they saw buffalo, which -Henry calls wild oxen, but did not disturb them, as -they had no time to do so, and no means of carrying -the flesh if they had killed any. One night they met two -young men who had come out to meet the party. They -had not known that there were white men with it, and -announced that they must return to advise the chief -of this; but before they could start, a storm came up -which prevented their departure. All that night and -part of the next day the wind blew fiercely, with drifting -snow. “In the morning we were alarmed by the -approach of a herd of oxen, who came from the open -ground to shelter themselves in the wood. Their numbers -were so great that we dreaded lest they should -fairly trample down the camp; nor could it have happened -otherwise but for the dogs, almost as numerous -as they, who were able to keep them in check. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50">50</a></span> -Indians killed several when close upon their tents, but -neither the fire of the Indians nor the noise of the dogs -could soon drive them away. Whatever were the terrors -which filled the wood, they had no other escape -from the terrors of the storm.”</p> - -<p>Two days later they reached the neighborhood of the -camp, which was situated in a woody island. Messengers -came to welcome them, and a guard armed with -bows and spears, evidently the soldiers, to escort them -to the home which had been assigned them. They were -quartered in a comfortable skin lodge, seated on buffalo -robes; women brought them water for washing, and -presently a man invited them to a feast, himself showing -them the way to the head chief’s tent. The usual -smoking, feasting, and speech-making followed.</p> - -<p>These Osinipoilles seemed not before to have seen -white men, for when walking about the camp, crowds -of women and children followed them, very respectfully, -but evidently devoured by insatiable curiosity. Water -here was obtained by hanging a buffalo paunch kettle -filled with snow in the smoke of the fire, and, as -the snow melted, more and more was added, until the -paunch was full of water. During their stay they never -had occasion to cook in the lodge, being constantly invited -to feasts. They had with them always the guard -of soldiers, who were careful to allow no one to crowd -upon or annoy the travellers. They had been here but -a short time when the head chief sent them word that -he was going to hunt buffalo the next day, and asked -them to be of the party.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51">51</a></span> -“In the morning we went to the hunt accordingly. -The chief was followed by about forty men and a great -number of women. We proceeded to a small island [of -timber] on the plain, at the distance of five miles from -the village. On our way we saw large herds of oxen -at feed, but the hunters forebore to molest them lest -they should take the alarm.</p> - -<p>“Arrived at the island, the women pitched a few tents, -while the chief led his hunters to its southern end, where -there was a pound or inclosure. The fence was about -four feet high, and formed of strong stakes of birch -wood, wattled with smaller branches of the same. The -day was spent in making repairs, and by the evening -all was ready for the hunt.</p> - -<p>“At daylight several of the more expert hunters were -sent to decoy the animals into the pound. They were -dressed in ox skins, with the hair and horns. Their -faces were covered, and their gestures so closely resembled -those of the animals themselves that, had I not -been in the secret, I should have been as much deceived -as the oxen.</p> - -<p>“At ten o’clock one of the hunters returned, bringing -information of the herd. Immediately all the dogs -were muzzled; and, this done, the whole crowd of men -and women surrounded the outside of the pound. The -herd, of which the extent was so great that I cannot -pretend to estimate the numbers, was distant half a -mile, advancing slowly, and frequently stopping to -feed. The part played by the decoyers was that of -approaching them within hearing and then bellowing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52">52</a></span> -like themselves. On hearing the noise, the oxen did -not fail to give it attention, and, whether from curiosity -or sympathy, advanced to meet those from whom it -proceeded. These, in the meantime, fell back deliberately -toward the pound, always repeating the call -whenever the oxen stopped. This was reiterated till -the leaders of the herd had followed the decoyers into -the jaws of the pound, which, though wide asunder -toward the plain, terminated, like a funnel, in a small -aperture or gateway, and within this was the pound -itself. The Indians remark that in all herds of animals -there are chiefs, or leaders, by whom the motions -of the rest are determined.</p> - -<p>“The decoyers now retired within the pound, and -were followed by the oxen. But the former retired -still further, withdrawing themselves at certain movable -parts of the fence, while the latter were fallen upon by -all the hunters and presently wounded and killed by -showers of arrows. Amid the uproar which ensued the -oxen made several attempts to force the fence, but the -Indians stopped them and drove them back by shaking -skins before their eyes. Skins were also made use -of to stop the entrance, being let down by strings as -soon as the oxen were inside. The slaughter was prolonged -till the evening, when the hunters returned to -their tents. Next morning all the tongues were presented -to the chief, to the number of seventy-two.</p> - -<p>“The women brought the meat to the village on -sledges drawn by dogs. The lumps on the shoulders, -and the hearts, as well as the tongues, were set apart<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53">53</a></span> -for feasts, while the rest was consumed as ordinary food, -or dried, for sale at the fort.”</p> - -<p>Henry has much to say about the Assiniboines, their -methods of hunting, religion, marriage, healing, and -many other customs. He notes especially their cruelty -to their slaves, and says that the Assiniboines seldom -married captive women.</p> - -<p>On the 19th of February the Assiniboine camp started -to the Fort des Prairies, and on the 28th camped at a -little distance from it; but Henry and his companions -went on, and reached the post that evening. Henry -declares that “The Osinipoilles at this period had had -no acquaintance with any foreign nation sufficient to -affect their ancient and pristine habits. Like the other -Indians, they were cruel to their enemies; but, as far as -the experience of myself and other Europeans authorizes -me to speak, they were a harmless people with a large -share of simplicity of manners and plain dealing. They -lived in fear of the Cristinaux, by whom they were not -only frequently imposed upon, but pillaged, when the -latter met their bands in smaller numbers than their -own.”</p> - -<p>On the 22d of March Henry set out to return to -Beaver Lake. They reached Cumberland House on -the 5th of April, and Beaver Lake on the 9th. The -lake was still covered with ice, and fish had grown -scarce, so that it was necessary to keep fishing all the -time in order to provide sustenance. Early in May, -however, water-fowl made their appearance, and for -some little time there was abundance. They left their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54">54</a></span> -post on the 21st of April, very short of provisions. They -travelled slowly, finally coming to a large lake which, -on the 6th of June, was still frozen over, but the ice -was too weak to be crossed. The Indians killed some -moose. On reaching Churchill River they set out -for Lake Arabuthcow [Athabasca] with six Canadians -and an Indian woman as guide. The river was sometimes -broad and slow-flowing, and again narrow and -very rapid. Fish were plenty. On January 24th they -reached Isle à la Crosse Lake, and met a number of -Indians, to whom they made presents and whom they -invited to visit them at their fort. These Indians seem -to have been Chipewyans, known to ethnologists as -Athabascans. They accepted the white men’s invitation, -and all started for the fort, continuing the journey -day and night, stopping only to boil the kettle.</p> - -<p>The discipline among these Athabasca Indians seemed -exceedingly good, as, in fact, it usually was in primitive -times. The orders given by the chief were conscientiously -obeyed, and this under circumstances of much -temptation, since, when liquor was being served out to -the young men, a certain number were told off who were -ordered not to drink at all, but to maintain a constant -guard over the white men.</p> - -<p>In the trade which followed, the Indians delivered -their skins at a small window in the fort, made for that -purpose, asking at the same time for the different articles -they wished to purchase, of which the prices had -been previously settled with the chiefs. The trade -lasted for more than two days, and amounted to 12,000<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55">55</a></span> -beaver skins, besides large numbers of otter and marten -skins. These Indians had come from Lake Arabuthcow, -at which they had wintered. They reported -that at the farther end of that lake was a river called -Peace River, which descended from the Stony or Rocky -Mountains, from which mountains the distance to the -Salt Lake, meaning the Pacific Ocean, was not great. -Other things the Indians told Henry which he did not -then understand, but a few years later Alexander Mackenzie -was to meet these problems and to solve many -of them. These Indians dressed in beaver skins, and -were orderly and unoffending. Mr. Joseph Frobisher -and Henry now set out to return to the Grand Portage, -leaving the remainder of their merchandise in the care -of Thomas Frobisher, who was to go with them to Lake -Athabasca.</p> - -<p>When Henry reached the Lake of the Woods he -found there some Indians, who told him that a strange -nation had entered Montreal, taken Quebec, killed all -the English, and would certainly be at the Grand Portage -before they reached there. Henry remarked to his -companion that he suspected the Bastonnais had been -up to some mischief in Canada, and the Indians at -once exclaimed, “Yes, that’s the name, Bastonnais.” -Bastonnais or Bostonnais, that is, “Boston men,” was -a name commonly used in the Northwest to distinguish -the Americans from the English, or “King George -men.”</p> - -<p>Without further accident Henry reached the Grand -Portage, from which place he continued to Montreal,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56">56</a></span> -which he reached the 15th of October. Here he found -that the Americans had been driven out, and that the -city was protected by the forces of General Burgoyne. -The capture of Montreal took place in the fall of -1775, and Quebec was besieged during the winter of -1775–1776, and it was nearly a year later that Henry -heard the news at the Lake of the Woods.</p> - -<p>This ends the account of Henry’s travels, but he was -still in the fur trade for many years later. In 1785 he -was a leading merchant of Montreal, and in 1790 he -returned to Michilimackinac.</p> - -<p>His book was published in New York in 1809, and -thus not until eight years after the publication of Alexander -Mackenzie’s great work. Henry died in Montreal, -April 4, 1824, in the 85th year of his age.</p> - -<p>Besides himself being a fur trader, Henry was a -father of fur traders. His son, William Henry, is constantly -mentioned in the diary of Alexander Henry the -younger. A second son, Alexander, was also in the -fur trade, and was killed on the Liard River. Alexander -Henry the younger, a nephew, is well known, -and will be noticed hereafter. A Mr. Bethune, constantly -spoken of by Alexander Henry, Jr., may, or -may not, have been a relative. Certain it is that Alexander -Henry had nephews named Bethune.</p> - -<p>The narrative is remarkable from its simplicity and -clearness of style, as well as for the keen powers of observation -shown by the writer. It is one of the most -interesting of the many interesting volumes on the fur -trade of its own and later times.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57">57</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="vspace"><a id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br /> - -<span class="subhead">JONATHAN CARVER</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap al"><span class="smcap1">At</span> the close of the “late war with France,” when -peace had been established by the treaty of Versailles, -in the year 1763, Jonathan Carver, the -captain of a company of provincial troops during the -French and Indian War, began to consider how he -might continue to do service to his country and contribute -as much as lay in his power to make advantageous -to Great Britain that vast territory which had been acquired -by that war in North America. What this territory -was, how far it extended, what were its products, -who were its inhabitants, were some of the questions -that suggested themselves to Carver. He was a good -patriot, and felt that knowledge as to these points would -be of the greatest importance to his country. With the -natural suspicion that Englishmen of his time felt of -the French, he believed that they, while they retained -their power in North America, had taken every artful -method to keep all other nations, particularly the English, -ignorant of everything concerning the interior parts -of the country. “To accomplish this design with the -greatest certainty,” he says, “they had published inaccurate<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58">58</a></span> -maps and false accounts; calling the different -nations of the Indians by nicknames they had given -them, and not by those really appertaining to them. -Whether the intention of the French in doing this was -to prevent these nations from being discovered and -traded with, or to conceal their discourse, when they -talked to each other of the Indian concerns, in their -presence, I will not determine; but whatsoever was the -cause from which it arose, it tended to mislead.”</p> - -<p>Carver contemplated something more important and -far-reaching than the mere investigation of the country, -for he says: “What I chiefly had in view after gaining -a knowledge of the manners, customs, languages, soil, -and natural products of the different nations that inhabit -the back of the Mississippi, was to ascertain the -breadth of that vast continent from the Atlantic to the -Pacific Ocean in its broadest part, between 43 and 46 -degrees north latitude. Had I been able to accomplish -this, I intended to have proposed to the government to -establish a post in some of those parts about the Straits -of Annian [Puget Sound] which, having been first discovered -by Sir Francis Drake, of course belonged to -the English. This, I am convinced, would greatly -facilitate the discovery of the northwest passage, or a -communication between Hudson’s Bay and the Pacific -Ocean, an event so desirable, and which has been so -often sought for, but without success. Besides this important -end, a settlement on that extremity of America -would answer many good purposes, and repay every -expense the establishment of it might occasion. For<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59">59</a></span> -it would not only disclose new sources of trade, and promote -many useful discoveries, but would open a passage -for conveying intelligence to China, and the English -settlements in the East Indies, with greater expedition -than a tedious voyage by the Cape of Good Hope or -the Straits of Magellan would allow of.”</p> - -<p>Carver’s projects for crossing the continent to the -Pacific Ocean proved abortive; yet he travelled into the -interior nearly as far as any one had hitherto advanced. -True, the Verendryes and one or two of the Jesuit -Fathers went beyond him on this parallel of latitude; -yet the work which Carver published is almost the -first that touches on a region lying well within the borders -of the Louisiana Purchase, and now one of the -most important sections of the United States.</p> - -<p>In his introduction, Carver has a prophetic word to -say about the unhappy relations existing, when he wrote, -between Great Britain and America. “To what power -or authority this new world will become dependent, -after it has arisen from its present uncultivated state, -time alone can discover. But as the seat of Empire, -from time immemorial, has been gradually progressive -toward the west, there is no doubt but that at some -future period, mighty kingdoms will emerge from these -wildernesses, and stately palaces and solemn temples, -with gilded spires reaching the skies, supplant the Indians’ -huts, whose only decorations are the barbarous trophies -of their vanquished enemies.”</p> - -<p>In June, 1766, Carver left Boston for the interior -parts of North America. He has little to say about<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60">60</a></span> -the country lying adjacent to the “back-settlements,” -which, he observes, have often been described. He -passed through the Great Lakes, mentioning as he goes -various Indian tribes and some of the products of the -country, stopped some little time at the great town of -the Winnebagoes, at Lake Winnebago, in Wisconsin, -where he was very civilly received. At this time these -people had a queen, or woman chief. He discusses -this tribe at some length, and incidentally repeats -a curious story: “An elderly chief more particularly -acquainted me that, about forty-six winters ago, he -marched, at the head of fifty warriors, toward the south-west -for three moons. That during this expedition, -whilst they were crossing a plain, they discovered a -body of men on horseback, who belonged to the Black -People; for so they call the Spaniards. As soon as -they perceived them, they proceeded with caution, and -concealed themselves till night came on; when they -drew so near as to be able to discern the number and -situation of their enemies. Finding they were not able -to cope with so great a superiority by daylight, they -waited till they had retired to rest; when they rushed -upon them, and after having killed the greatest part -of the men, took eighty horses loaded with what they -termed white stone. This I suppose to have been silver, -as he told me the horses were shod with it, and that -their bridles were ornamented with the same. When -they had satiated their revenge, they carried off their -spoil, and being got so far as to be out of reach of the -Spaniards that had escaped their fury, they left the useless<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61">61</a></span> -and ponderous burthen, with which the horses -were loaded, in the woods, and mounting themselves, -in this manner returned to their friends. The party -they had thus defeated, I conclude to be the caravan -that annually conveys to Mexico the silver which the -Spaniards find in great quantities on the mountains -lying near the heads of the Colorado River; and the -plains where the attack was made, probably, some they -were obliged to pass over in their way to the heads of -the River St. Fee, or Rio del Nord, which falls into the -Gulf of Mexico to the west of the Mississippi.”</p> - -<p>From the Winnebago town, Carver proceeded up -the Fox River, and then carried across a short distance -to the Ouisconsin River, and proceeded down that. -Here he found the great town of the Saukies, the largest -and best built Indian town he ever saw. It consisted -of “about ninety houses, each large enough for -several families, built of hewn plank, neatly jointed, -and covered with bark so compactly as to keep out the -most penetrating rains.” The streets were regular and -spacious; and it appeared more like a civilized town -than the abode of savages. About the town lay the -plantations of the Indians, in which they raised great -quantities of corn, beans, and melons; and their annual -product was so large that this place was esteemed -the best market for traders to furnish themselves with -provisions of any within eight hundred miles. Near -the mouth of the Wisconsin River, on the banks of the -Mississippi, the Ottigaumies—Outagami, <i>i. e.</i>, “people -of the other band,” that is the Foxes—had a large town,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62">62</a></span> -at a place called “La Prairie des Chiens [Carver writes -this name in various ways], which signifies Dog -Plains,” a great trading place.</p> - -<p>About the first of November, Carver reached Lake -Pepin, and speaks with the greatest enthusiasm of the -beauty of the country, its apparent productiveness, and -the extraordinary number of game and wild fowl seen -near about it. “On the plains,” he says, “are the -largest buffalo of any in America. In the groves are -found great plenty of turkeys and partridges; while -great numbers of fowl, such as storks, swans, geese, -brants, and ducks frequent the lake.” A little below -that lake he discovered, in a fine, level, open plain, -what had once been a breastwork, about four feet in -height, extending the best part of a mile, and sufficiently -capacious to cover five thousand men; one of the famous -mounds for which the Mississippi Valley has so -long been celebrated.</p> - -<div id="ip_62" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_062.jpg" width="600" height="397" alt="" /> - <div class="caption floatl in2">A MAN OF THE NAUDOWESSIE.</div> - <div class="caption floatr l2">A MAN OF THE OTTIGAUMIES.</div> - <div class="caption floatc smaller">From <cite>Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America</cite>, by Jonathan Carver.</div> -</div> - -<p>About thirty miles above Lake Pepin, near the St. -Croix River, Carver met three bands of the Naudowessie—Sioux—Indians; -and while he was there a war -party of Chippewas approached the camp, and seemed -to be preparing for an attack. The Sioux requested -Carver to help them, to put himself at their head and -lead them against their enemies. This the traveller -was of course unwilling to do, for his work in the country -made it important that he should be friendly with -all people. He endeavored to persuade the Sioux to -allow him to attempt to make peace with the Chippewas, -and when at length they assented, he met the invaders<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63">63</a></span> -and succeeded in inducing them to turn back -without making an attack. He then persuaded the -Sioux to move their camp to another part of the country, -lest the Chippewas should change their mind -and return to attack them. Carver declares that this -diplomatic success gained him great credit with both -Sioux and Chippewas; that to it he was indebted for -the friendly reception that he afterward met with the -Naudowessie of the Plains; and that when many -months later he reached the village of the Chippewas, -farther to the north, he was received with great cordiality -by the chiefs, many of whom thanked him for -having prevented the mischief.</p> - -<p>About thirty miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, -Carver was shown a remarkable cave of amazing depth, -which the Indians called Wacon-teebe—Wakán tipi, -mysterious or sacred dwelling—that is to say, “the -Dwelling of the Great Spirit.” Within it is a lake, -which “extends to an unsearchable distance; for the -darkness of the cave prevents all attempts to acquire a -knowledge of it.” The walls are covered with many -Indian hieroglyphics, which seem to be very ancient, -for time had nearly covered them with moss. The -Falls of St. Anthony greatly impressed Carver, as they -did the young Indian in his company.</p> - -<p>At the mouth of the river St. Francis, Carver says, -“I observed here many deer and carraboes—a record -for the caribou unusually far south for the mid continent—some -elk, with abundance of beavers, otters and -other furs. Not far above this, to the north-east, are a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64">64</a></span> -number of small lakes called the Thousand Lakes; -the parts about which though but little frequented, -are the best within many miles for hunting, as the -hunter never fails of returning loaded beyond his expectations.”</p> - -<p>Above the St. Francis River, the Mississippi was new -ground, for Hennepin, the river’s first explorer, had not -passed up it farther than the St. Francis, and Carver -remarks that, “As this river is not navigable from sea -for vessels of any considerable burthen, much higher -up than the forks of the Ohio, and even that is accomplished -with great difficulty, owing to the rapidity of -the current, and the windings of the river, those settlements -which may be made on the interior branches -of it must be indisputably secure from the attacks of -any maritime power. But at the same time the settlers -will have the advantage of being able to convey their -produce to the sea-ports with great facility, the current -of the river, from its source to its entrance into the -Gulph of Mexico, being extremely favorable for doing -this in small craft. This might also in time be facilitated -by canals or shorter cuts; and a communication -opened by water with New York, Canada, etc., by -way of the lakes.”</p> - -<p>Returning to the mouth of the river St. Pierre, now -the Minnesota River, Carver ascended this about two -hundred miles, to the country of the Naudowessie of the -Plains. The northern branch of the river St. Pierre -rises, he says, from a number of lakes near the Shining -Mountains; and it is from some of these also that a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65">65</a></span> -capital branch of the river Bourbon—the York, now -Nelson River—which runs into Hudson’s Bay, has -its sources. All this geography comes from the accounts -of Indians, and is clearly misunderstood as to -distance and location, for Carver says, also, that the -river Messorie, which enters the Mississippi far to the -southward, also takes its rise at the head of the river -St. Pierre. His distances were very far from right, for -he makes the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the river -Bourbon, and the Oregon, or River of the West (Columbia), -head all together in these high mountains.</p> - -<p>At the great Sioux camp, which he came to on this -river, and which he estimated to contain a thousand -people, most of whom had never seen a white man, he -was most hospitably received. He spent the winter -with them, studying their language, acquiring so far as -possible a knowledge of the geography of the country, -and at last, with a considerable portion of the camp, -returning down the river to the Great Cave, and to the -burial ground which lay near it. Before parting with -the Sioux he held a council with them, at which long -speeches were made by both Englishman and Indians, -and finally Carver left them to return to La Prairie du -Chien, where there were some traders from whom he -purchased goods for his farther journey.</p> - -<p>Among the places now well known which Carver -visited, was what he calls the Red Mountain, from -which the Indians get a sort of red stone out of which -they hew the bowls of their pipes. This is, no doubt, -the pipestone quarry, described by Catlin, and then<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66">66</a></span> -owned by the Sioux Indians, which has been purchased -by the government as a park. Carver says, also, that -in some of these parts is found a black, hard clay, or -rather stone, of which, the Indians make their family -utensils.</p> - -<p>Carver was much impressed by the beauties of the -country through which the river St. Pierre [Minnesota -River] flowed; of which he says: “Wild rice grows -here in great abundance; and every part is filled with -trees, bending under their loads of fruit, such as plums, -grapes, and apples; the meadows are covered with -hops, and many sorts of vegetables; whilst the ground -is stored with useful roots, with angelica, spikenard, -and ground-nuts as large as hen’s eggs. At a little distance -from the sides of the river are eminences, from -which you have views that cannot be exceeded even by -the most beautiful of those I have already described; -amidst these are delightful groves, and such amazing -quantities of maples, that they would produce sugar -sufficient for any number of inhabitants.”</p> - -<p>Carver at length reached La Prairie du Chien, and -after attending to various matters there, returned up -the Mississippi to the place where the Chippewa River -enters it, a little below Lake Pepin. Here he engaged -an Indian pilot, and instructed him to steer toward the -Ottowaw Lakes, which lie near the head of that river. -About thirty miles from the mouth, Carver took the -easternmost of the two branches and passed along -through the wide, gently flowing stream. “The country -adjoining to the river,” he says, “for about sixty<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67">67</a></span> -miles, is very level, and on its banks lie fine meadows, -where larger droves of buffaloes and elks were feeding, -than I had observed in any other part of my travels. -The track between the two branches of this river is -termed the Road of War between the Chipeway and -Naudowessie Indians.” Near the head of the stream -he came upon a Chippewa town, the houses built after -the Indian manner, and having neat plantations behind -them. He then carried over to the head of the river -St. Croix, descended one of the branches, and then ascended -another; and on both streams he discovered -several mines of virgin copper. Then carrying across -a height of land and descending another stream, he -found himself on Lake Superior, and coasted along its -western shores until he reached the Grand Portage, -between Lake Superior and Lac la Pluie, or Rainy -Lake.</p> - -<p>Here were met a large party of Killistinoe and Assinipoil -Indians, “with their respective kings and their -families.” They had come to this place to meet the -traders from the east, who were accustomed to make -this their road to the north-west. From these Indians -Carver received considerable geographical information -about the country to the westward, much of which, -however, is too vague to be very valuable. Many of -the great lakes to the westward were mentioned and -described, and some of them are readily recognized. -Such are Lake Winnepeek, Lac du Bois, and Lac la -Pluye, or Rainy Lake. Of the country about Lake -Bourbon and Lake Winnepeek it was said that there<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68">68</a></span> -were found some buffalo of small size, which were fat -and good in the latter part of the summer. This difference -in size Carver attributes to their northerly situation; -“just as the black cattle of the northern parts of Great -Britain differ from English oxen.” But it is quite probable -that these “small buffalo” may have been musk-oxen, -and their location wrong.</p> - -<p>“These Indians informed me that to the northwest -of Lake Winnepeek lies another whose circumference -vastly exceeded any they had given me an account of. -They describe it as much larger than Lake Superior. -But as it appears to be so far to the northwest, I should -imagine that it was not a lake, but rather the Archipelago -or broken waters that form the communication -between Hudson’s Bay and the northern parts of the -Pacific Ocean.”</p> - -<p>As already stated, Carver believed that the headwaters -of the Missouri were not far from the headwaters -of his St. Pierre River. The Indians told him that they -frequently crossed over from the head of that stream -to the Missouri. The nearest water to the head of the -Minnesota River is Big Sioux River in Dakota, which -is, in fact, a tributary of the Missouri.</p> - -<p>The ethnological information there gathered was as -little trustworthy as that concerning the geography of -the more distant parts. For example, it is said that in -the country belonging to the Pawnees, and the Pawnawnees, -nations inhabiting some branches of the Messorie -River, mandrakes are frequently found, a species of root -resembling human beings of both sexes; and that these<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69">69</a></span> -are more perfect than such as are discovered about the -Nile in Nether-Ethiopia.</p> - -<p>“A little to the northwest of the heads of the Messorie -and the St. Pierre, the Indians further told me, that -there was a nation rather smaller and whiter than the -neighboring tribes, who cultivate the ground, and (as -far as I could gather from their expressions), in some -measure, the arts. To this account they added that -some of the nations who inhabit those parts that lie to -the west of the Shining Mountains, have gold so plenty -among them that they make their most common utensils -of it. These mountains (which I shall describe more -particularly hereafter) divide the waters that fall into -the South Sea from those that run into the Atlantic.</p> - -<p>“The people dwelling near them are supposed to be -some of the different tribes that were tributary to the -Mexican kings, and who fled from their native country -to seek an asylum in these parts, about the time of -the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, more than -two centuries ago.” After a brief discussion of the reasons -which may have led these supposed immigrants, -and the Winnebagoes to leave their southern home for -the north, Carver speaks at some length of the Shining -or Rocky Mountains, just mentioned.</p> - -<p>“That range of mountains, of which the Shining -Mountains are a part, begin at Mexico, and continuing -northward on the back or at the east of California, separate -the waters of those numerous rivers that fall -either into the Gulph of Mexico or the Gulph of California. -From thence continuing their course still northward,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70">70</a></span> -between the sources of the Mississippi and the -rivers that run into the South Sea, they appear to end -in about forty-seven or forty-eight degrees of north -latitude; where a number of rivers arise, and empty -themselves either into the South Sea, into Hudson’s -Bay, or into the waters that communicate between these -two seas.</p> - -<p>“Among these mountains, those that lie to the west -of the river St. Pierre are called the Shining Mountains, -from an infinite number of crystal stones, of an amazing -size, with which they are covered, and which, when -the sun shines full upon them, sparkle so as to be seen -at a very great distance.</p> - -<p>“This extraordinary range of mountains is calculated -to be more than three thousand miles in length, without -any very considerable intervals, which I believe -surpasses anything of the kind in the other quarters of -the globe. Probably in future ages they may be found -to contain more riches in their bowels than those of -Indostan and Malabar, or that are produced on the -Golden Coast of Guinea; nor will I except even the -Peruvian mines. To the west of these mountains, -when explored by future Columbuses or Raleighs, may -be found other lakes, rivers and countries, full fraught -with all the necessaries or luxuries of life; and where -future generations may find an asylum, whether driven -from their country by the ravages of lawless tyrants, -or by religious persecutions, or reluctantly leaving it to -remedy the inconveniences arising from a superabundant -increase of inhabitants; whether, I say, impelled<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71">71</a></span> -by these, or allured by hopes of commercial advantages, -there is little doubt but their expectations will be fully -gratified by these rich and unexhausted climes.”</p> - -<p>The pages which Carver devotes to a description of -the unknown country to the west, are inserted in his -account while he was sojourning with these Crees and -Assiniboines, at the Grand Portage. There were more -than three hundred people in the camp, and as they -waited for the traders who did not come, their stock of -provisions began to run low; and the coming of the -traders was awaited with an impatience that increased -day by day.</p> - -<p>It was during this period of waiting that Carver had -an opportunity to witness one of those prophecies by a -priest, or medicine man, which even in modern times -have puzzled many cool and clear heads; and though -the story of what he saw is long, yet it is worth while -to give his account of it in full. It appears that one -day while all were expressing their hopes for the early -arrival of the traders, and were sitting on the hill looking -over the lake, in the hope that they might be seen, -the chief priest of the Crees informed those who were -with him that he would endeavor to obtain information -from the Great Spirit as to when the traders would -arrive. Carver gave little heed to the suggestion, supposing -it to be merely a juggling trick; but the chief -of the tribe advised him that the priest had made this -offer chiefly for the purpose of allaying his anxiety, and -at the same time to convince Carver of his ability to -talk with the Great Spirit.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72">72</a></span> -“The following evening was fixed upon for this -spiritual conference. When everything had been properly -prepared, the king came to me and led me to a -capacious tent, the covering of which was drawn up, -so as to render what was transacting within visible -to those who stood without. We found the tent surrounded -by a great number of the Indians, but we -readily gained admission, and seated ourselves on skins -laid on the ground for that purpose.</p> - -<p>“In the centre I observed that there was a place of -an oblong shape, which was composed of stakes stuck -in the ground, with intervals between, so as to form -a kind of chest or coffin, large enough to contain the -body of a man. These were of a middle size, and -placed at such a distance from each other, that whatever -lay within them was readily to be discerned. The -tent was perfectly illuminated by a great number of -torches made of splinters cut from the pine or birch -tree, which the Indians held in their hands.</p> - -<p>“In a few minutes the priest entered; when an amazing -large elk’s skin being spread on the ground, just -at my feet, he laid himself down upon it, after having -stript himself of every garment except that which he -wore close about his middle. Being now prostrate -upon his back, he first laid hold of one side of the skin, -and folded it over him, and then the other; leaving -only his head uncovered. This was no sooner done, -than two of the young men who stood by took about -forty yards of strong cord, made also of an elk’s hide, -and rolled it tight around his body, so that he was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73">73</a></span> -completely swathed within the skin. Being thus bound -up like an Egyptian mummy, one took him by the -heels and the other by the head, and lifted him over the -pales into the inclosure. I could now also discern him -as plain as I had hitherto done, and I took care not to -turn my eyes a moment from the object before me, that -I might the more readily detect the artifice, for such I -doubted not but that it would turn out to be.</p> - -<p>“The priest had not lain in this situation more than -a few seconds when he began to mutter. This he continued -to do for some time, and then by degrees grew -louder and louder, till at length he spoke articulately; -however, what he uttered was in such a mixed jargon -of the Chippeway, Ottawaw, and Killistinoe languages, -that I could understand but very little of it. Having -continued in this tone for a considerable while he at -last exerted his voice to its utmost pitch, sometimes raving -and sometimes praying, till he had worked himself -into such an agitation that he foamed at his mouth.</p> - -<p>“After having remained near three-quarters of an -hour in the place and continued his vociferation with -unabated vigor, he seemed to be quite exhausted, and -remained speechless. But in an instant he sprung to -his feet, notwithstanding at the time he was put in it -appeared impossible for him to move either his legs or -arms, and shaking off his covering, as quick as if the -bands with which it had been bound were burned -asunder, he began to address those who stood around, -in a firm and audible voice. ‘My Brothers,’ said he, -‘the Great Spirit has deigned to hold a talk with his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74">74</a></span> -servant at my earnest request. He has not, indeed, -told me when the persons we expect will be here, but -to-morrow, soon after the sun has reached his highest -point in the heavens, a canoe will arrive, and the people -in that will inform us when the traders will come.’ -Having said this, he stepped out of the inclosure, and -after he had put on his robes, dismissed the assembly. -I own I was greatly astonished at what I had seen, but -as I observed that every eye in the company was fixed -on me with a view to discover my sentiments, I carefully -concealed every emotion.</p> - -<p>“The next day the sun shone bright, and long before -noon all the Indians were gathered together on the -eminence that overlooked the lake. The old king came -to me and asked me whether I had so much confidence -in what the priest had foretold as to join his people on -the hill and wait for the completion of it? I told him -that I was at a loss what opinion to form of the prediction, -but that I would readily attend him. On this -we walked together to the place where the others were -assembled. Every eye was again fixed by turns on me -and on the lake; when just as the sun had reached his -zenith, agreeable to what the priest had foretold, a -canoe came round a point of land about a league distant. -The Indians no sooner beheld it than they sent -up an universal shout, and by their looks seemed to -triumph in the interest their priest thus evidently had -with the Great Spirit.</p> - -<p>“In less than an hour the canoe reached the shore, -when I attended the king and chiefs to receive those<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75">75</a></span> -who were on board. As soon as the men were landed, -we walked all together to the king’s tent, where according -to their invariable custom we began to smoke; -and this we did, notwithstanding our impatience to -know the tidings they brought, without asking any -questions; for the Indians are the most deliberate people -in the world. However, after some trivial conversation, -the king inquired of them whether they had -seen anything of the traders? The men replied that -they had parted from them a few days before, and that -they proposed being here the second day from the present. -They accordingly arrived at that time, greatly to -our satisfaction, but more particularly to that of the -Indians, who found by this event the importance both -of their priest and of their nation greatly augmented in -the sight of a stranger.</p> - -<p>“This story I acknowledge appears to carry with it -marks of great credulity in the relator. But no one is -less tinctured with that weakness than myself. The -circumstances of it I own are of a very extraordinary -nature; however, as I can vouch for their being free -from either exaggeration or misrepresentation, being -myself a cool and dispassionate observer of them all, I -thought it necessary to give them to the public. And -this I do, without wishing to mislead the judgment of -my readers, or to make any superstitious impressions -on their minds, but leaving them to draw from it what -conclusions they please.”</p> - -<p>The arrival of the traders, so anxiously looked for, -did not greatly help Carver, who found that he could<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76">76</a></span> -not procure from them the goods that he desired, -and shortly afterward he proceeded eastward, having -coasted around the north and east shores of Lake Superior. -He describes the lake, and the various peoples -who inhabit its borders, most of whom are Chippewas. -During his trip, he found native copper on a stream -running into the lake on the south, and describes how -large a trade might be made in this metal, which, as he -says, “costs nothing on the spot, and requires but little -expense to get it on board; could be conveyed in boats -or canoes through the Falls of St. Marie to the Isle of -St. Joseph, which lies at the bottom of the straits near -the entrance into Lake Huron; from thence it might be -put on board large vessels, and in them transported -across that lake to the Falls of Niagara; there being -carried by land across the Portage, it might be conveyed -without much more obstruction to Quebec. The -cheapness and ease with which any quantity of it may -be procured will make up for the length of way that -it is necessary to transport it before it reaches the sea-coast, -and enable the proprietors to send it to foreign -markets on as good terms as it can be exported from -other countries.” Stockholders in the Calumet and -Hecla and in other Lake Superior copper concerns -are requested to take notice.</p> - -<p>The fishing of Lake Superior impressed Carver as -much as it has other travellers. Of these fish he says: -“The principal and best are the trout and sturgeon, -which may be caught at almost any season in the greatest -abundance. The trout in general weigh about<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77">77</a></span> -twelve pounds; but some are caught that exceed fifty. -Besides these, a species of white fish is taken in great -quantities here, that resemble a shad in their shape, -but they are rather thicker, and less bony; they weigh -about four pounds each, and are of a delicious taste. -The best way of catching these fish is with a net; but -the trout may be taken at all times with the hook. -There are likewise many sorts of smaller fish in great -plenty here, and which may be taken with ease; among -these is a sort resembling a herring, which are generally -made use of as a bait for the trout.” The foot of the -Sault Ste. Marie, which Carver calls the Falls of St. -Marie, is noted by him as “a most commodious station -for catching the fish, which are to be found there in immense -quantities. Persons standing on the rocks which -lie adjacent to it may take with dipping nets, about the -months of September and October, the white fish before-mentioned; -at that season, together with several -other species, they crowd up to this spot in such amazing -shoals that enough may be taken to supply, when -properly cured, thousands of inhabitants throughout -the year.”</p> - -<p>Passing now through the Straits into Lake Huron, -this body of water is described, and attention called to -the rise and fall of the waters, which Carver says is not -diurnal, but occurs in periods of seven years and a half. -Still going eastward, the town of Detroit was reached, -and something given of its history in recent years, and -especially of the conspiracy of Pontiac, and the death -of that chief.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78">78</a></span> -In Lake Erie, Carver noticed the islands near the -west end, so infested with rattlesnakes that it is very -dangerous to land on them; and also the great number -of water-snakes, which lie in the sun on the leaves -of the large pond-lilies floating on the water.</p> - -<p>“The most remarkable of the different species that -infest this lake is the hissing-snake [the innocent <i>Heterodon -platyrhinos</i>], which is of the small, speckled -kind, and about eighteen inches long. When anything -approaches, it flattens itself in a moment, and its spots, -which are of varied dyes, become visibly brighter through -rage; at the same time it blows from its mouth with -great force a subtile wind, that is reported to be of a -nauseous smell; and if drawn in with the breath of -the unwary traveller, will infallibly bring on a decline, -that in a few months must prove mortal, there being -no remedy yet discovered which can counteract its baneful -influence.” Still proceeding eastward, the author -continues to describe the country, mentioning many -well-known lakes, and the peoples about them.</p> - -<p>This concludes Carver’s journey, but by no means -his book, of which the remaining two-thirds are devoted -to the manners and customs of the Indians, with a -chapter giving vocabularies of several languages, and -other chapters treating of the fauna and flora of the -vast region passed over. Like most writers about the -Indians, he discusses their origin, quoting a great number -of authors, from the discovery of America to the -time of his writing; the last of these, Adair, who, as is -well known, devoted a very considerable work to proving<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79">79</a></span> -to his own satisfaction that the Indians were the -lost tribes of Israel. Carver announces that he is of the -opinion that “the North American continent received its -first inhabitants from the islands which lie between the -extremities of Asia and America, viz., Japon, Yeso, or -Jedso, Gama’s Land, Behring’s Isle, with many others”; -to which he adds a cluster of islands that reach as far -as Siberia, which may possibly be the Aleutian Islands. -To support this conclusion, he advances many cogent -arguments, and announces that “that great and learned -historian Doctor Robinson,” is of the same opinion with -him.</p> - -<p>Concerning the persons and dress of the Indians, -Carver has much to say. He notices many things still -well known, and speaks of certain others that are so long -obsolete as to be almost forgotten. Thus he declares -that: “It is also a common custom among them to -bore their noses, and wear in them pendants of different -sorts. I observed that sea-shells were much worn by -those of the interior parts, and reckoned very ornamental; -but how they procured them I could not learn: -probably by their traffick with other nations nearer the -sea.” Another custom noted, which has long been -obsolete, but is still remembered by the most ancient -persons of some of the Western tribes, is the woman’s -fashion of dressing the hair. To the west of the Mississippi, -he says, the Sioux and Assiniboine women “divide -their hair in the middle of the head, and form -it into two rolls, one against each ear. These rolls are -about three inches long, and as large as their wrists.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80">80</a></span> -They hang in a perpendicular attitude at the front -of each ear, and descend as far as the lower part -of it.”</p> - -<p>The characteristics of the Indians, their method of -reckoning time, their government, division into tribes, -their chiefs, food, dances, and many other matters, are -described at great length; as is also their hunting, their -manner of making war, and, incidentally, the defeat of -Braddock, and the massacre of the people under Col. -Monroe, at Fort William Henry. Carver himself appears -to have been with the prisoners, of whom so -many were massacred on that unhappy day; but he -himself at length reached Fort Edward in safety. He -tells something, also, of the way in which the Indians -tortured their captives, and speaks of the Illinois Indian -brought into the town of Ottigaumies, who was -bound to a tree while all the small boys in the village -were permitted to amuse themselves by shooting arrows -at the victim. As none of the boys were more -than twelve years old, and they were placed at a considerable -distance, their arrows did little more than -pierce the skin; so that the prisoner stood for more -than two days pierced with these arrows. During all -this time he sung his warlike exploits, told how much -injury he had inflicted on his enemies, and endeavored -with his last gasp to incite his tormentors to greater -efforts, in order that he might give still greater proofs -of his fortitude.</p> - -<p>Following the chapter on war comes one on their -methods of making peace; then one on games, marriage,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81">81</a></span> -religion, and character. The last hundred pages -of the volume treats “Of the Beasts, Birds, Fishes, -Reptiles, and Insects, which are found in the interior -parts of North America.” Of the larger mammals a -catalogue is given from which two or three descriptions -may be taken.</p> - -<p>“The Carrabou. This beast is not near so tall as -the moose, however, it is something like it in shape, -only rather more heavy, and inclining to the form of -an ass. The horns of it are not flat as those of an elk -are, but round like those of the deer; they also meet -nearer together at the extremities, and bend more over -the face than either those of the elk or moose. It partakes -of the swiftness of the deer, and is with difficulty -overtaken by its pursuers. The flesh of it likewise is -equally as good, the tongue particularly is in high -esteem. The skin being smooth and free from veins is -as valuable as shamoy.”</p> - -<p>“The Carcajou. This creature, which is of the cat -kind, is a terrible enemy to the preceding four species -of beasts. He either comes upon them from some concealment -unperceived, or climbs up into a tree, and -taking his station on some of the branches, waits till -one of them, driven by an extreme of heat or cold, takes -shelter under it; when he fastens upon his neck, and -opening the jugular vein, soon brings his prey to the -ground. This he is enabled to do by his long tail, with -which he encircles the body of his adversary; and the -only means they have to shun their fate is by flying -immediately to the water, by this method, as the carcajou<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82">82</a></span> -has a great dislike to that element, he is sometimes -got rid of before he can effect his purpose.”</p> - -<p>There is a very long description of the beaver, and -its extraordinary intelligence.</p> - -<p>The list of birds, too, is a long one; but that of the -fishes is very short. To snakes, as might be imagined, -much space is given; but to insects very little. -Carver describes the lightning-bug, but adds: “Notwithstanding -this effulgent appearance, these insects are -perfectly harmless; you may permit them to crawl upon -your hand, when five or six, if they freely exhibit their -glow together, will enable you to read almost the finest -print.”</p> - -<p>Trees, plants, and shrubs are all described, and -among them the wild rice, of which Carver says: “In -future periods it will be of great service to the infant -colonies, as it will afford them a present support until -in the course of cultivation other supplies may be produced; -whereas in those realms which are not furnished -with this bounteous gift of nature, even if the climate -is temperate and the soil good, the first settlers are often -exposed to great hardships from the want of an immediate -resource for necessary food.”</p> - -<p>In his appendix, Carver sums up conclusions drawn -from his extensive travels in, and wide knowledge of, -the interior of the continent. He has faith in the discovery -of a north-west passage, and believes that Hudson’s -Bay would be a safe retreat for the adventurous -navigators who might try, at first unsuccessfully, a -north-west passage. He even names a certain Richard<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83">83</a></span> -Whitworth, gentleman, of England, who had proposed -pursuing nearly the same route as Carver, and -having built a fort at Lake Pepin, to have proceeded up -the river St. Pierre, crossed over the river Messorie, -till, having discovered the source of the Oregon, or River -of the West, he would have sailed down that river to -the place where it is said to empty itself near the -Straits of Annian. Carver was to have accompanied -this Mr. Whitworth on his explorations, and many of -the preparations had been made for the trip, “when -the present troubles in America began, which put a -stop to an enterprize that promised to be of inconceivable -advantage to the British dominions.”</p> - -<p>So the War of the Revolution put an end to Carver’s -Western explorations.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84">84</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER MACKENZIE</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Of</span> the early explorers of the north none is more -celebrated than Alexander Mackenzie, the first -man to penetrate from the interior to the Frozen -Ocean, and the first in the farther north to cross the -continent. Among the leaders of the north-west he is -pre-eminent as a discoverer, and of the early northmen -his name is the most often mentioned. His journeyings—that -to the Arctic made in the year 1789, and that -across the continent in 1792 and 1793—are told of in -a splendid volume, published in London in the year -1801, entitled, <cite>Voyages from Montreal and the River St. -Lawrence, Through the Continent of North America to -the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, in the Year 1789 and -1793</cite>. Its publication was soon followed by the conferring -of knighthood on the author.</p> - -<div id="ip_84" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 31.1875em;"> - <img src="images/i_084.jpg" width="499" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>ALEXANDER MACKENZIE.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From Mackenzie’s <cite>Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North -America</cite>, etc.</p></div></div> - -<p>The earliest explorations of the interior of this continent -were all of them by water. By water the first -missionaries pushed their way up the St. Lawrence -and through the Great Lakes, and then crossing over -by short portages to the Mississippi, journeyed down -that great highway of more modern times until they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85">85</a></span> -came to the Gulf of Mexico. Later, missionaries and -explorers and traders, still from Montreal, followed the -water trail up the Great Lakes to the Grand Portage, -and thence pressed westward until they reached Lake -Winnipeg, the Saskatchewan, and all that broad country -which lies east of the northern Rocky Mountains. The -frail birch canoe carried their scanty provisions and -their goods for trade, and returned laden to the gunwale -with rich packages of furs. Later still, when the -people of the United States began to push westward, -it was down the Alleghany and the Ohio—still largely -by water—that their journeyings were conducted.</p> - -<p>Alexander Mackenzie was a fur trader, and he made -his way westward, by the usual route, to the Grand -Portage, Lake Winnipeg, then up the Saskatchewan -and across to Fort Chipewyan, on the Lake of the Hills—now -known as Athabaska Lake. Though the journey -was long, it was full of interest; the country had -been seen by few white people, it abounded in life of -many descriptions, all wild, and for the most part undisturbed. -He reached Fort Chipewyan with ninety -or a hundred men, and without any provision for their -sustenance; but the lake was full of fish, its shores -abounded with game. The autumn fishing was successful, -and the cold during the winter intense, so that -fish were caught in great numbers and frozen, remaining -good until spring. During the spring and fall vast -flocks of wild fowl resorted to the lakes, and immense -numbers were killed, so that for short terms the geese -supported the life of the traders.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86">86</a></span> -In 1783 and 1784 the Northwest Fur Company had -been established, in opposition to the Hudson’s Bay -Company, and included among its partners many of -the most celebrated traders of the north. Mackenzie -had for five years been employed in the counting house -of Messrs. Gregory and McLeod, and was admitted a -partner in the Northwest Fur Company, and went to -the Indian country in 1785. How enormous the trade -that this company carried on is shown by a list of the -returns for a single year, which gives 106,000 beaver -skins, 2,100 bear, 4,600 otter, 17,000 musquash, 32,000 -marten, 6,000 lynx, 600 wolverine, 1,650 fisher, besides -a less number of fox, kitfox, wolf, elk, raccoon and deer -skins, and buffalo robes. Mackenzie was astronomer -as well as trader. He was also an observer who considered -the economic possibilities of the country, its -fauna and its flora, and especially the game, as well -as the human inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Mackenzie started from Fort Chipewyan, on the -south side of the Lake of the Hills, June 3, 1789, in a -birch-bark canoe. His crew consisted of four Canadians, -a German, and two Indian women. An Indian -interpreter, known as English Chief, and his two wives -journeyed in a small canoe, while two young Indians -followed in a third. English Chief had been one of -the followers of a chief who was with Mr. Hearne on -his explorations to the Coppermine River. A fourth -canoe, in charge of one of the clerks of the company, -Mr. Le Roux, accompanied them, carrying a load of -trade goods and presents, together with a part of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87">87</a></span> -provisions and ammunition of the expedition. Their -route was without much adventure until they reached -Slave Lake, still covered with ice, somewhat melted -near the shore. The gnats and mosquitoes which had -troubled them during the first few days that they had -been on their way, here left them. Mackenzie says: -“The Indians informed me that at a very small distance -from either bank of the river are very extensive -plains frequented by large herds of buffaloes: while the -moose and reindeer keep in the woods that border on -it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their -habitations in small lakes and rivers, as in the larger -streams the ice carries everything along with it during -the spring. The mud banks in the river are covered -with wild fowl, and we this morning killed two swans, -ten geese, and one beaver, without suffering the delay -of an hour; so that we might have soon filled the canoe -with them, if that had been our object.” That same -day they reached the house erected on Slave Lake by -Messrs. Grant and Le Roux in 1786, and here they -stopped and pitched their tents, as it seemed likely that -the ice would detain them for some time. The nets -were set and many fish were caught. Berries were already -ripe, and the women were occupied in gathering -them, while wild fowl were breeding, and they collected -some dozens of their eggs. On Monday, June 15, the -ice broke up near them, and cleared a passage to the -islands opposite; and at sunset they embarked and -crossed to them, where they stopped to gum their canoes, -and the next day set out again, following the shores of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88">88</a></span> -the lake. Ice interrupted their passage from time to -time. They supplied themselves with food by means -of their nets.</p> - -<p>On the 18th, two of the hunters killed a reindeer and -its fawn. The ice continued to hinder them, but they -worked along slowly. On one of the islands that they -passed reindeer were seen, and seven killed. The island -was named Isle de Carre Boeuf. Here occurs a -somewhat unusual usage of the term pemmican, described -to be “fish dried in the sun, and afterward -pounded for the convenience of carriage.” The more -common meaning of the term is, flesh dried and pounded -and mixed with grease—as buffalo pemmican, elk pemmican, -caribou pemmican. On Tuesday, the 23d, the -explorer met with a little camp—three lodges—of Red-Knife -Indians, so called from their copper knives. -They informed the explorer that others of their people -were near at hand. These Indians—now known as -Yellow-Knives—are of Athabaskan stock, thus allied to -the Hare, Dog-Rib, and Chipewyan peoples, also to the -Navajos and Apaches of the south. They possessed some -furs, and Mr. Le Roux secured from them eight packs -of good beaver and marten skins. They seemed to know -little or nothing about the country to the north, and Mackenzie’s -inquiries brought forth no useful information.</p> - -<p>The ice in the lake was still troublesome, though -breaking up fast. On Monday, June 29, they entered -the river by which Slave Lake discharges to the north, -and made good progress down it. On both sides of -the river the Indians reported that there were extensive<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89">89</a></span> -plains, which abounded in buffalo and moose-deer. -By this time the wild fowl had begun to molt, and the -Indians no longer troubled to shoot them, but pursued -them in their canoes, killing them with sticks or capturing -them alive. On the 1st of July, keeping on -down the river, they made a cache of provisions on an -island. By this time they had come in sight of high -mountains to the west, barren and rocky at the top, but -well wooded on the slopes.</p> - -<p>On July 3 the current was stronger, and their progress -still more rapid. They saw frequent signs of camps, -but none of very recent occupation; but on the 5th, -smoke was seen on the north shore of the river, and -as the canoes drew nearer, natives were discovered running -about in apparent alarm. Some took refuge in -the woods, others hurried to their canoes. The hunters -landed, and calling out to the Chipewyans in their -own tongue, assured them that the party was a friendly -one, and after some difficulty the Indians became convinced -that there was no danger. These were five -families of two different tribes, the Slave and the Dog-Rib. -Mackenzie offered them the pipe, though it was -quite apparent that they were unacquainted with tobacco, -and also gave them a drink of grog, which also -seemed new to them. However, they appreciated the -beauties of knives, beads, awls, rings, hatchets, etc., -and soon became so trustful that “They became more -familiar even than we expected, for we could not keep -them out of our tents; though I did not observe that -they attempted to purloin anything.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90">90</a></span> -“The information that they gave respecting the river -had so much of the fabulous that I shall not detail it; -it will be sufficient just to mention their attempts to -persuade us that it would require several winters to -get to the sea, and that old age would come upon us before -the period of our return; we were also to encounter -monsters of such horrid shapes and destructive power -as could only exist in their wild imagination. They -added, besides, that there were two impassable falls -in the river, the first of which was about thirty days’ -march from us.”</p> - -<p>While these stories did not affect Mackenzie, they -did influence his Indians, who were already tired of the -voyage, and anxious to turn back, and it required some -effort to convince them that it was better to go on. -One of the natives was persuaded to accompany them -as a guide, and though he afterward wished to withdraw, -he was not allowed to, and with some ceremony -he finally took his unwilling departure with the white -men. These people used bone knives, were tattooed on -the face, wore a goose-quill, or a small piece of wood, -through the nose, and used vessels woven of wattap—the -roots of the spruce or tamarack—in which they -boiled their food by hot stones. Arrows were pointed -with horn, flint, iron, or copper, and their axes were -made of stone. From the neighboring Red-Knives and -Chipewyans, by barter for skins, they obtained small -pieces of iron, from which also they made knives. -Their awls were of iron or horn.</p> - -<p>The guide whom they took from this country was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91">91</a></span> -anxious to return to his people, and had to be watched -constantly to prevent his escape. As the explorers -passed on northward they were constantly in sight of -the ridge of snowy mountains to the west. “Our conductor -informed us that great numbers of bears and -small white buffaloes frequent those mountains, which -are also inhabited by Indians.” These white buffalo -have been thought to be white goats; probably they -were the white sheep (<i>Ovis dalli</i>) which inhabit the -mountains to the west of the Mackenzie River.</p> - -<p>The next day more natives were met with, who, as -usual, fled on the approach of the white men. One old -man, however, did not run, but approached the travellers, -“and represented himself as too far advanced in -life, and too indifferent about the short time he had to -remain in the world, to be very anxious about escaping -from any danger that threatened him; at the same -time, he pulled his gray hairs from his head by handfuls -to distribute among us, and implored our favor -for himself and for his relations. Our guide, however, -at length removed his fears, and persuaded him to recall -the fugitives, who consisted of eighteen people.” These -joyfully received the presents of beads, knives, and -awls, which were offered them, and overwhelmed the -explorers with hospitable attentions, giving them food, -which was gladly accepted. They told of dangers to -be met with farther down the river, and some of the -natives accompanied Mackenzie’s people to point out -the safest channel of the rapids, which they declared -to be just beyond; but as a matter of fact there were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92">92</a></span> -no rapids. The river was about three hundred yards -broad, and Mackenzie’s soundings gave fifty fathoms -of water.</p> - -<p>Along the river there were almost continuous encampments -of Indians, all of whom were spoken to, and -all of whom traded food, such as hares, ptarmigan -and fish, to the travellers. The last parties met with -were Hare Indians, who told wonderful stories of danger -and of fearful things to be met on the river; and these -terrors were not distant, for according to the Indians, -behind an island opposite their camp dwelt a spirit -in the river which swallowed every person that approached -it. Unfortunately, Mackenzie had no time -to cross to the island, to see whether it would swallow -him.</p> - -<p>The people met a little farther along were more attractive -than those seen earlier, many of whom had -been sick, while these were “healthy, full of flesh, and -clean in their persons.” Their ornaments and utensils -did not differ greatly from those farther up the -river. They had a little iron, which they obtained -from the Eskimos; their arrows were made of very -light wood, and winged with two feathers, while their -bows were of Eskimo type, made of two pieces spliced -with sinew. Their shirts were not cut square at the -bottom, but tapered to a point from the belt downward -as low as the knee, before and behind, and these -points were fringed. Over the breast, back, and shoulders -their shirts were also fringed, the fringe being ornamented -with the stone of a berry, which was drilled<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93">93</a></span> -and run on each string of the fringe. The sleeves of -the shirts were short and wide, and long mittens covered -their hands and arms. Their leggings were like -trousers, and the shoes sewed to the leggings.</p> - -<p>These people told them that it would take ten more -nights to reach the sea, but after three nights they -would meet the Eskimo. The reports of some guns -discharged as the canoes pushed off greatly alarmed -the Indians, and the guide that they had hired at this -place seemed inclined to leave them, until advised that -the noise was a signal of friendship. The guide and -two of his companions who accompanied them on their -journey were merry fellows, singing not only their native -songs, but others in imitation of the Eskimos. -Not satisfied with singing, their guide proceeded to -dance, and transferring himself to the white men’s -canoe, he danced in it, to their no small alarm lest it -should be upset.</p> - -<p>Mackenzie now began to be a little uneasy, for his -provisions were growing scant, his hunters discouraged, -and his men generally seemed anxious to return. -Some of them declared that they must turn back, and -the explorer was obliged to satisfy them by the assurance -that he would go forward only seven days more, -and if he did not then reach the sea, would return. -They had now reached latitude 68°, and the sun was -continually above the horizon. On the 11th they met -an abandoned camp of Indians, where were seen parts -of the fragments of three canoes, and places where oil -had been spilt. Later, an Eskimo hut was found, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94">94</a></span> -about it a great deal of property. Now, they began to -see fresh tracks of the Eskimos on the beach. According -to their guide, they were approaching a large lake, -where the Eskimos lived, and in which they killed large -fish found there, which Mackenzie presumed must be -whales. White bears, and other large animals not identified -from the description, were told of, as well as the -Eskimo canoes, which could conveniently carry four -or five families.</p> - -<p>On the 12th, in the morning, they landed where there -were four huts. “The adjacent land is high and -covered with short grass and flowers, though the earth -was not thawed above four inches from the surface, -beneath which was a solid body of ice. This beautiful -appearance, however, was strongly contrasted with -the ice and snow that was seen in the valleys. The -soil, where there is any, is a yellow clay mixed with -stones. These huts appear to have been abandoned -during the last winter, and we had reason to think that -some of the natives had been lately there, as the beach -was covered with the tracks of their feet. Many of -the runners and bars of their sledges were laid together -near the houses in a manner that seemed to denote the -return of the proprietors. There were also pieces of -netting made of sinews, and some of bark of the willow. -A thread of the former was platted, and no ordinary -portion of time must have been employed in manufacturing -so great a length of cord. A square stone -kettle with a flat bottom also occupied our attention, -which was capable of containing two gallons; and we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95">95</a></span> -were puzzled as to the means these people must have -employed to have chiselled it out of a solid rock into its -present form.”</p> - -<p>When they had satisfied their curiosity they were -about to re-embark, but were puzzled to know where -they should go or what channel they should take. -The lake was quite open to them to the westward, and -the water very shallow, so much so that it was impossible -to go very close to the shore. They therefore went -to an island, where they camped, and, having set the -net, Mackenzie and his interpreter climbed to the -highest part of the island, from which they discovered -solid ice, extending from the south-west by compass to -the north and to the eastward. To the east were many -islands.</p> - -<p>As they passed along, on their walk of exploration, -they came upon a number of white partridges, now becoming -brown—the ptarmigan—and beautiful plover, -which were breeding. There were also white owls, -and presently they came upon an Eskimo grave.</p> - -<p>Even the Indians and the Canadians, seeing that the -time for turning back had almost come, began to regret -that they must return without coming to the sea, -not knowing that they were already upon it. For the -next two or three nights they were several times obliged -to move the baggage to keep the water from flowing -about it, and at last Mackenzie concluded that this -was the tide that was rising and falling. One morning -many large animals were seen in the water, and Mackenzie -recognized them as whales, and ordered the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96">96</a></span> -canoe to start in pursuit. Fortunately, just at this time -a fog arose and the whales were not overtaken. These -were white whales, and, the Indian guide stated, were -one of the principal sources of food for the Eskimo.</p> - -<p>All Mackenzie’s efforts to meet these northern people -failed, and on Thursday, the 16th of July, the canoes -entered the river and began the return journey. They -were still subsisting largely on the wild fowl that the -Indians killed and the fish that they took in their nets, -and these were barely enough to support them. Indeed, -on some days the wild fowl were so shy that they -could not be approached, and this obliged them to -draw more or less on their store of provisions. However, -on the 18th, and before they had gotten away -from the country of the Eskimos, the hunters killed -two reindeer, a very fortunate addition to their supply -of food. But this killing of the reindeer was not without -its unfortunate side, for it so alarmed their guide -that he deserted that night. However, geese were -plenty, and on the following day the hunters killed -twenty-two, and the next day fifteen, and four swans.</p> - -<p>They were now obliged to resort to the laborious and -slow towing-line to ascend the river. They met a -party of Indians, among whom was the brother of the -guide who had recently deserted, and Mackenzie sat up -all night to watch them. They were greatly interested -when they saw him writing, wondering what he was -doing. As the night drew on, some women came from -the forest to the camp, and after remaining for a short -time, went away. “Those who remained immediately<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97">97</a></span> -kindled a small fire and layed themselves down to sleep -around it, like so many whelps, having neither skins -nor garments of any kind to cover them, notwithstanding -the cold that prevailed. My people having placed -their kettle of meat on the fire, I was obliged to guard -it from the natives, who made several attempts to -possess themselves of its contents; and this was the -only instance I had hitherto discovered of their being -influenced by a pilfering disposition. It might perhaps -be a general opinion that provisions were a common -property.”</p> - -<p>From here they continued to tow the canoe up the -river. Some Indian huts seen were built of drift-wood. -On the slope of the beach, and on the inside, earth was -dug away to form a level floor. Within these huts -were drying scaffolds, covered with split fish, and fires -made in different parts of the hut warmed and dried -the air, and hastened the operation of drying. The -Indians, probably the Loucheux, an Athabascan tribe, -told him of the Eskimos who dressed like themselves, -wore their hair short, and had two holes perforated, one -on each side of the mouth, in line with the under lip, -on which they placed long beads—the labrets, so well -known as ornaments of the primitive Eskimos. They -reported the animals of their country to be reindeer, -bears, wolverines, martens, foxes, hares, and white -buffaloes—white sheep (<i>Ovis dalli</i>)—and that the latter -were only to be found in the mountains to the westward.</p> - -<p>On the journey up the river the towing-line was much -in use, but often, when the wind was north, it was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98">98</a></span> -possible to use the sail. For six days on this southward -journey the party had not touched any of their provision -stores, but in this time, Mackenzie says, they -had consumed two reindeer, four swans, forty-five -geese, and a considerable quantity of fish. “I have -always observed that the northmen possessed very -hearty appetites, but they were much exceeded by -those with me since we entered this river. I should -really have thought it absolute gluttony in my people, -if my own appetite had not increased in a similar proportion.”</p> - -<p>He now began to hear, from the people whom he -met, of a great river to the west of the one he was -travelling on, and beyond the mountains, perhaps the -Yukon or the Fraser. But the country through which -this river ran was inhabited by strange creatures. -“The Indians represented them as being of gigantic -stature and adorned with wings, which, however, they -never employed in flying; that they fed on large birds, -which they killed with the greatest ease, though common -men would be certain victims of their voracity -if they ventured to approach them. They also described -the people that inhabited the mouth of the river -as possessing the extraordinary power of killing with -their eyes, and devouring a large beaver at a single -meal. They added that canoes of very large dimensions -visited that place. These tales, however, they told not of -their own knowledge, but from reports of other tribes.”</p> - -<p>It was at this camp that Mackenzie was obliged to -shoot an Indian dog, which it was impossible to keep<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99">99</a></span> -from interfering with his baggage, which, of course, contained -the provisions. “It was in vain that I had remonstrated -on this subject, so that I was obliged to -commit the act which is just mentioned. When these -people heard the report of the pistol, and saw the dog -dead, they were seized with a very great alarm, and -the women took the children on their backs and ran -into the woods. I ordered the cause of this act of -severity to be explained, with the assurance that no -injuries would be offered to themselves. The woman, -however, to whom the dog belonged was very much -affected, and declared that the loss of five children during -the preceding winter had not affected her so much -as the death of this animal; but her grief was not of -very long duration, and a few beads, etc., soon assuaged -her sorrow.”</p> - -<p>On the way up the river, August 2, small springs of -mineral water were observed, as well as lumps of iron -ore, and finally a “coal mine,” or bed of lignite, on -fire. The beach was covered with coal, and the English -Chief gathered some of it to be used as a black -dye, to color porcupine quills. A little farther on the -Indian hunters killed a beaver, whose fur was now -beginning to grow long. Tracks of moose and reindeer -were seen, but all of them old. Since the weather was -growing cooler the reindeer would now leave the plains -to come into the woods, for the mosquitoes were beginning -to disappear. Though the river had fallen -much the current was still very strong, and the work -difficult. The weather was cold, and now their violent<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100">100</a></span> -exercise scarcely kept them warm. The women constantly -remained in the canoes, making moose-skin moccasins -for the men, who as constantly wore them out, -a pair lasting not more than one day.</p> - -<p>On the 7th they saw two reindeer on the beach before -them, but the Indians, quarrelling to see which -should be the first to get near them, alarmed the deer, -which ran away. However, a female reindeer was -killed, whose legs showed wounds, and it was supposed -that she had been pursued by wolves, which devoured -her young one. One of the young Indians took her -udder, which was full of milk, and, squeezing it over -some boiled corn, ate the mixture with great relish.</p> - -<p>On the 10th, accompanied by one of his young Indians, -Mackenzie strove without success to reach the -mountains which were seen on the south-west of the -river.</p> - -<p>For the last few days the hunters had been unsuccessful, -killing only a beaver, a few hares, and a few water-fowl, -but on the 13th they reached the island where they -had hidden their pemmican on the way down, and -raising the cache, found themselves once more in plenty. -A little later they saw another camp of Indians, who, -very much frightened, drew their canoes up on the -beach and fled to the woods, leaving much of their -property behind them. This was pounced upon by Mackenzie’s -Indians, and he took his interpreter severely -to task for their conduct. This brought on a more or -less violent dispute, in the course of which the English -Chief declared that he would accompany Mackenzie<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101">101</a></span> -no farther, but would leave him and remain here. -The Indian and all his relations wept bitterly, but after -a few hours Mackenzie persuaded him to continue the -journey, and propitiated him by a gift of rum.</p> - -<p>On the 17th and 18th of August the hunters were -more successful, and on the last day the English Chief -killed a buffalo, while a few water-fowl were brought -in daily. They now found signs of a Cree encampment -and presently reached the entrance of Slave Lake. -Coasting around this, often in heavy weather, they came -upon Mr. Le Roux, from the fort there, and found -that he had been somewhat successful in trading for -skins, having five packs, principally of marten. Large -game seemed abundant here, and the tracks of buffalo, -moose, and reindeer were seen. On August 30 they -reached Mr. Le Roux’s house.</p> - -<p>Here Mackenzie’s Indians left him, on the ground -that he travelled too fast for them and that they feared -they should be drowned if they followed so reckless a -sailor. Mr. Le Roux’s establishment was left on the -31st of August, and twelve days later, after many difficulties -from storm and cold, they reached Fort Chipewyan, -having concluded a voyage which had occupied -one hundred and two days.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102">102</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER MACKENZIE</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">On</span> October 10, 1792, Alexander Mackenzie left -Fort Chipewyan to proceed up Peace River, -his purpose being to go up the stream so far as -the season would permit, and, wintering wherever he -must, to cross the mountains at its head and continue -westward, if possible, to the Pacific Ocean.</p> - -<p>Peace River takes its name from the settlement of -their differences at Peace Point by the Knisteneaux and -Beaver Indians. “When this country was formerly -invaded by the Knisteneaux they found the Beaver -Indians inhabiting the land about the Portage La -Loche; and the adjoining tribes were those whom they -called Slaves. They drove both these tribes before -them, when the latter proceeded down the river from -the Lake of the Hills, in consequence of which that -part of it obtained the name of the Slave River. The -former proceeded up the river, and when the Knisteneaux -made peace with them, this place was settled to -be the boundary.”</p> - -<p>As they proceeded, the weather was so cold and raw -as to make travel unpleasant, but on the afternoon of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103">103</a></span> -October 17 they reached the falls, where there were -two considerable portages, and where they found recent -fires, showing that the canoes that Mackenzie had -despatched some days before were not far ahead.</p> - -<p>On the 19th they reached what is termed the Old -Establishment, an early fort, and found that the people -preceding them had slept there the previous night, and -had carelessly set the large house on fire. But for -Mackenzie’s arrival all the buildings would have been -destroyed. On either side of Peace River here were -extensive plains, which offered pasturage to great herds -of buffalo.</p> - -<p>The next morning they reached the fort, and were -received with shouts of rejoicing and volleys from the -guns, by the Indians, who now expected rum and a -carouse. About three hundred Indians belonged here, -who, though apparently Chipewyan by race, had -adopted the manners and customs of their former enemies, -the Crees. The contrast between the neat and -decent appearance of the men and the very disagreeable -looks of the women was striking. After staying here -only long enough to give some advice and presents to -the Indians and his instructions to Mr. Findlay, he -kept on up the river. It was constantly growing colder -and the ice gave some trouble, but on November 1 he -reached the place where he expected to winter.</p> - -<p>Two men had been sent forward in the spring to cut -and square timber for the erection of a house, and -about seventy Indians had joined them. The men had -worked well, and prepared timber enough for a considerable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104">104</a></span> -fort, as well as a ditch in which to set up -the palisades of a stockade. Experience at the Old -Establishment had shown that many vegetables would -grow well in this soil and climate, but this was no time -to think about gardening. What was more important -was the fact that the plains on either side of the river -abounded in buffalo, elk, wolves, foxes, and bears, -while a ridge of highlands or mountains to the westward -was inhabited by great numbers of deer, being called -Deer Mountain.</p> - -<p>As with all traders, Mackenzie’s first business was to -call the Indians together and give them some rum, -tobacco, and advice. They listened to the advice, -drank the rum, and smoked the tobacco, promising -everything that he asked.</p> - -<p>On the 22d of November—although the side-head -giving the date in the printed volume says December—the -river froze up, so that the hunters had a bridge on -which to cross. Game was plenty, yet but for this -means of crossing the stream they might have suffered -from lack of food. It was here the practice of medicine -was forced on Mackenzie. By means of simple remedies -and by close personal attention to each case he -cured a number of severe ailments among the Indians.</p> - -<p>Of one of these he says: “On my arrival here last -fall, I found that one of the young Indians had lost the -use of his right hand by the bursting of a gun, and that -his thumb had been maimed in such a manner as to -hang only by a small strip of flesh. Indeed, when he -was brought to me his wound was in such an offensive<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105">105</a></span> -state and emitted such a putrid smell that it required -all the resolution I possessed to examine it. His -friends had done everything in their power to relieve -him, but as it consisted only in singing about him and -blowing upon his hand, the wound, as may be well -imagined, had got into the deplorable state in which I -found it. I was rather alarmed at the difficulty of -the case, but as the young man’s life was in a state of -hazard, I was determined to risk my surgical reputation, -and accordingly took him under my care. I -immediately formed a poultice of bark, stripped from -the roots of the spruce fir, which I applied to the wound, -having first washed it with the juice of the bark. This -proved a very painful dressing. In a few days, however, -the wound was clean and the proud flesh around -it destroyed. I wished very much in this state of the -business to have separated the thumb from the hand, -which I well knew must be effected before the cure -could be performed, but he would not consent to that -operation till, by the application of vitriol, the flesh by -which the thumb was suspended was shrivelled almost -to a thread. When I had succeeded in this object I -perceived that the wound was closing rather faster -than I had desired. The salve I applied on the occasion -was made of the Canadian balsam, wax, and -tallow dropped from a burning candle into water. In -short, I was so successful that about Christmas my -patient engaged in an hunting party, and brought me -the tongue of an elk; nor was he finally ungrateful. -When he left me I received the warmest acknowledgments,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106">106</a></span> -both from himself and the relations with whom -he departed, for my care of him. I certainly did not -spare my time or attention on the occasion, as I regularly -dressed the wound three times a day during the -course of a month.”</p> - -<p>Just before Christmas, Mackenzie moved from his -tent into his house, and now began the erection of houses -for the men. Long before this the thermometer had -been down far below zero, yet the men had been lying -out in the cold and snow without any shelter except -an open shed. “It would be considered by the inhabitants -of a milder climate as a great evil to be exposed to -the weather at this rigorous season of the year, but these -people are inured to it, and it is necessary to describe -in some measure the hardships which they undergo -without a murmur, in order to convey a general notion -of them.</p> - -<p>“The men who were now with me left this place in -the beginning of last May and went to the Rainy Lake -in canoes, laden with packs of fur, which, from the -immense length of the voyage and other occurring -circumstances, is a most severe trial of patience and -perseverance; there they do not remain a sufficient -time for ordinary repose, when they take a load of -goods in exchange, and proceed on their return, in a -great measure, day and night. They had been arrived -near two months, and all that time had been continually -engaged in very toilsome labor, with nothing more than -a common shed to protect them from the frost and snow. -Such is the life which these people lead, and is continued<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107">107</a></span> -with unremitting exertion till their strength is -lost in premature old age.”</p> - -<p>Mackenzie was now receiving plenty of beaver from -the Indians. But, on the other hand, he was not -without the usual annoyances to which the fur trader -was exposed. The Indians showed a tendency to -quarrel among themselves, especially over their gambling -at the platter game, which is a sort of throwing of -dice, the same, apparently, as the seed game, so common -among all the Indians of the plains. On the -whole, however, the winter passed quietly, and geese -were seen on the 13th of March.</p> - -<p>In closing his account of this winter, passed high up -on Peace River, Mackenzie gives some account of the -Beaver and Rock Mountain Indians living there, who, -he says, did not exceed 150 men capable of bearing -arms. As late as 1786, when the first traders from -Canada arrived on the banks of the Peace River, the -natives employed bows and snares, but since then they -had become well armed, bows were little used, and snares -were unknown. These Indians were excellent hunters -and such hard workers in the field that they were extremely -lean, being always in the best of training. -When a relation died the men blackened the face, cut -off their hair, and gashed their arms with knives and -arrows. The women often cut off a finger at the death -of a favorite son, husband, or father. The Indians -told of a time when no timber grew on the hills and -plains along Peace River, but they were covered with -moss, and the reindeer was the only animal. As the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108">108</a></span> -timber spread on them, elk and buffalo made their -appearance, and the reindeer retired to the range of -highlands called Deer Mountain.</p> - -<p>The month of April passed, and early in May Mackenzie -loaded six canoes with the furs and provisions -he had purchased, and despatched them to Fort Chipewyan. -He, however, retained six of the men, who agreed -to accompany him up Peace River on his western voyage -of discovery, and left his winter interpreter and another -person in charge of the fort, to supply the natives with -their ammunition during the summer. On the 9th -day of May he embarked in a canoe twenty-five feet -long, loaded with about 3,000 pounds of provisions, -goods for presents, arms, ammunition, and baggage, and -ten persons, two of whom were hunters and interpreters.</p> - -<p>The first day’s journey was through an interesting -and beautiful country. “From the place which we -quitted this morning the west side of the river displayed -a succession of the most beautiful scenery I had ever -beheld. The ground rises at intervals to a considerable -height and stretches inward to a considerable distance; -at every interval or pause in the rise there is a -very gently ascending space or lawn, which is alternate -with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole, or, at -least, as far as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent -theatre of nature has all the decorations which the -trees and animals of the country can afford it; groves -of poplars in every shape vary the scene, and their intervals -are enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes, -the former choosing the steeps and uplands, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109">109</a></span> -the latter preferring the plains. At this time the buffaloes -were attended with their young ones, who were -frisking about them; and it appeared that the elks -would soon exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. -The whole country displayed an exuberant verdure; -the trees that bear a blossom were advancing fast to -that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their -branches reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting -sun, added a splendid gaiety to the scene, which no expressions -of mine are qualified to describe. The east -side of the river consists of a range of high land covered -with the white spruce and the soft birch, while the -banks abound with the alder and the willow. The -water continued to rise, and the current being proportionately -strong, we made a greater use of setting poles -than paddles.”</p> - -<p>On the following days camps of Beaver Indians were -seen, and Mackenzie was somewhat anxious lest they -should encourage his hunters to desert, but this did not -take place. Game continued abundant, and on the 13th -they saw along the river tracks of large bears, some of -which were nine inches wide. “We saw one of their -dens, or winter quarters, called watee, in an island, -which was ten feet deep, five feet high, and six feet wide, -but we had not yet seen one of those animals. The -Indians entertain great apprehension of this kind of -bear which is called the grisly bear, and they never venture -to attack it but in a party of at least three or four.”</p> - -<p>The land on both sides of the river was high and -irregular, and the banks and the rocky cliffs exhibited<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110">110</a></span> -strata of red, green, and yellow colors. “Some parts, -indeed, offer a beautiful scenery, in some degrees similar -to that which we passed on the second day of our -voyage, and equally enlivened with the elk and the -buffalo, who were feeding in great numbers and unmolested -by the hunter.” The next day they passed -a river, of the mouth of which Mackenzie says: “This -spot would be an excellent situation for a fort or factory, -as there is plenty of wood and every reason to believe -that the country abounds in beaver. As for the -other animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every -direction the elk and the buffalo are seen in possession -of the hills and the plains.” Two elks were killed and -a buffalo wounded that day. The land above their -camp spread out in an extensive plain, gradually rising -to a high ridge, chiefly grassy, and dotted with poplar -and white birch trees. “The country is so crowded -with animals as to have the appearance, in some places, -of a stall-yard, from the state of the ground and the -quantity of dung which is scattered over it. The soil -is black and light. We this day saw two grisly and -hideous bears.”</p> - -<p>Although the ascent of the river had not been easy -and they had frequently been obliged to unload and -repair their canoe, it was not until Sunday, the 19th, -that they met rapids and cascades, which presented -greater difficulties. The canoe was heavily laden, the -current enormously swift, and broken constantly by -rocks and shoals; the only means of advance was by the -tow-line, and the beach was often narrow or wanting.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111">111</a></span> -At the beginning of this very difficult stretch of water -they found several islands of solid rock with but little -soil upon them, the rock worn away near the water’s -surface, but unworn higher up, so that the islands presented, -as it were, so many large tables, each of which -was supported by a pedestal of a more circumscribed -projection. On these islands geese were breeding.</p> - -<p>Carrying over short distances, often crossing the river -in a very swift water, in constant danger from the great -stones which frequently fell from the banks above, and -much of the time in the water, they pursued their way -for a short distance over this very difficult passage. The -work was terribly hard, and as far as they could see up -the river there was no improvement of the channel. -Therefore, Mackenzie sent out a party of six men to -explore, and on their return that same night they -reported that it was necessary to make a long carry—nine -miles they said—before smooth water would be -met with. The canoe was therefore unloaded, the baggage -carried up to the top of the bank above the river, -and then the canoe was fairly hauled up to the same -height. There they camped. In two days’ march -from this place, carrying the load and the canoe, they -again met quiet water.</p> - -<p>The journal for Thursday, the 23d, enumerates the -different sorts of trees which they saw, among which -is named bois-picant, a tree which Mackenzie had not -seen before, but which was apparently the west-coast -shrub—the devil’s club, which grows in a few places on -the eastern slope of the Continental Divide. Although<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112">112</a></span> -he did not know it, Mackenzie was now quite close to -the summit of the Rocky Mountains.</p> - -<p>The river here was wide, flowing in great volume, -and very swiftly but smooth. There were many animals -in the country, for their tracks were seen everywhere; -and when Mackenzie left a bundle of presents -on a pole, as a good-will offering to any natives who -might pass by, one of his Indians added to the bundle -a small, round piece of green wood, chewed at one end -to form a brush, such as the Indians use to pick out the -marrow from bones. This was the sign of a country -with many animals in it. At a number of points along -the river they had found places where wood had been -chopped with axes, showing that the Indians who had -passed along here had had intercourse with the whites.</p> - -<p>They were now flanked on both sides by high mountains -covered with snow, and the cold was so severe -that the men, although working hard, could not get -along without their blanket coats. On the last day of -May the men were so cold that they landed in order to -kindle a fire.</p> - -<p>Their great labor, so long continued, had made Mackenzie’s -people more or less discontented. They were -tired of the journey and anxious to get back. Moreover, -some wanted to go in one direction and some in -another, and the forking of the river gave rise to open -grumbling. However, Mackenzie handled them well, -and they went on. On the 1st of June he says: “In no -part of the Northwest did I see so much beaver-work -within an equal distance as in the course of this day.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113">113</a></span> -In some places they had cut down several acres of large -poplars; and we saw also a great number of these -active and sagacious animals. The time which these -wonderful creatures allot for their labors, whether in -erecting their curious habitations or providing food, is -the whole of the interval between the setting and the -rising sun.”</p> - -<p>Ever since they had started the water in the river -had been rising, since, of course, the advancing summer -was melting the snows in the neighboring mountains -and swelling all the streams. On the 5th of June -Mackenzie left the canoe and ascending a high hill or -mountain crossed the country, and climbing a tree -looked ahead. He saw little that was interesting, and -on returning to the river could see nothing of the canoe. -Made anxious by this, he went forward to see if it was -ahead, sending others of his people back to look for it. -He had no food, and was preparing to lie out during -the night when a shot from Mr. Mackay and the Indian -who had been sent back announced that the canoe had -been discovered. His people excused their slow progress -by saying that their canoe had been damaged and -that the travel had been harder than on any previous -day, and Mackenzie pretended to believe them. The -difficulties of the way were indeed great. The current -was so strong that paddles could not be used, so deep -that the poles were useless, while the bank of the river -was so lined with willows and other trees that it was -impossible to pass the line. The water was still rising -and the current growing stronger. In spite of all<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114">114</a></span> -these impediments they pushed on, and were already -beginning to look for the carrying-place, where they -should cross the mountains to the stream which ran -toward the Pacific.</p> - -<p>On Sunday, June 9, they noticed a small fire, and -in a short time heard people in the timber, as if in a -state of confusion. The Indians were frightened by the -discovery of the explorer’s party, and the explorer’s -party were not a little alarmed for fear they should be -attacked. Very judiciously Mackenzie turned his canoe -off to the opposite side of the river, and before they -were half-way across two men appeared on the rising -ground opposite them, brandishing their spears, displaying -bows and arrows, and shouting. The interpreter -called to the Indians, telling them that the white -people were friendly, yet the Indians preserved a threatening -attitude, but after some talk consented to the -landing of the party, though evidently very much -frightened. They laid aside their weapons, and when -Mackenzie stepped forward and shook hands with each -of them, one of them, trembling with fear, drew his -knife from his sleeve and offered it to Mackenzie as a -mark of submission.</p> - -<p>These Indians had heard of white men before, but had -never seen any, and were extremely curious as well as -suspicious. They had but just reached here and had -not yet made their camp, but on the discovery of Mackenzie’s -party had run away, leaving their property -behind.</p> - -<p>The explorer made a great effort to conciliate and to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115">115</a></span> -attach them to him, and during the day the whole party -of Indians came in, three men, three women, and seven -or eight boys and girls. They were delighted with the -beads which were given them, and seemed to enjoy the -pemmican, their own provision consisting entirely of -dried fish. They possessed some iron, which they said -they obtained from people distant about eleven days’ -march, and that those people travelled for a month to -reach the country of other tribes, who lived in houses -and who extended their journeys to the Stinking Lake, -or the ocean, where they traded with white people, who -came in boats as large as islands.</p> - -<p>This account discouraged Mackenzie, who feared -that the end of his journey was far distant. However, -he continued his efforts to lull the suspicions of the Indians, -and treated them and their children with especial -kindness. The next day, sitting about the fire and -listening to the talk of the Indians and interpreters, -some portion of which he could understand, he recognized -that one of the Indians spoke of a great river -flowing near the source of the one which they were -ascending, and of portages leading to a small river, -which discharged into the great river; and a little -patient work led the Indian to describe what seemed a -practicable route toward the ocean.</p> - -<p>These Indians were of low stature, not exceeding five -feet six or seven inches, lean, round-faced, with pierced -noses and loose-hanging hair. They wore robes of the -skins of the beaver, the ground-hog, or the reindeer, -dressed with the hair on. Their leggings and moccasins<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116">116</a></span> -were of dressed moose, elk, or reindeer skin. They -wore collars of grizzly-bear claws. Their cedar bows -were six feet in length, and bore a short iron spike on -one end, and so might be used as a spear or lance. -They also carried lances headed with iron or bone. -Their knives and axes were of iron. They made lines -of rawhide, which were fine and strong, while their nets -and fishing-lines were of willow bark and nettles. Their -hooks were of bone set in wood, their kettles of basketry, -their spoons of horn or wood. Their canoes -were made of spruce bark. Among certain presents -given Mackenzie before he parted from these people -were a net made of nettles and “a white horn in the -shape of a spoon, which resembles the horn of the buffalo -of the Coppermine River”—by which undoubtedly -is meant the musk-ox—“but their description of the -animal to which it belonged does not answer to that.” -This horn was probably that of a mountain sheep.</p> - -<p>With a guide engaged from these people Mackenzie -pushed on, promising the Indians that he would return -in two months. The journey up the river was difficult, -and the canoe by this time was in bad shape, so that a -little jar caused it to leak, and repairs were frequent. -At length they left the main stream, by the instruction -of the guide, who declared that it began only a short distance -away, having its origin in a great valley which -was full of snow, the melting of which supplied the -river. The branch which they went up was only about -ten yards broad and the one they now entered still narrower. -The current was slow, and the channel so<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117">117</a></span> -crooked that it was sometimes difficult to work the -canoe. Soon they entered a small lake choked with -drift-wood, and camped at an old Indian camp. Beaver -were abundant here, as were swans and geese, but they -killed none of them, for fear of alarming any natives -by the discharge of fire-arms. This Mackenzie regarded -as the highest source of the Peace River.</p> - -<p>At the head of the lake they found a carry where there -was a beaten path, about eight hundred yards long, to -another small lake. From here two streams were seen -tumbling down the rocks from the right and emptying -into the lake that they had left, while two others, falling -from the opposite side, poured into the lake they -were approaching. Now they had crossed the Continental -Divide, and instead of fighting with the current -they would be going down the stream. We may imagine -something of what Mackenzie’s feelings must have -been when he had surmounted the Divide and saw before -him a direct passage to the western ocean. But -his troubles were by no means over.</p> - -<p>From the lake they passed into a small river, full of -wood which had slipped down the mountain side, and -which constantly obstructed the way. At first there -was scarcely water enough to float the canoe, but the -water grew deeper, and toward evening they entered -another lake. Its outlet was very swift, and they had -difficulty in keeping the canoe from being driven against -the trees which had fallen across it.</p> - -<p>Men sent ahead down the river to report on its practicability -came back with terrible stories of rapids, fallen<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118">118</a></span> -trees, and large stones. The guide was now very uncomfortable, -and wished to return, but this, of course, -was not permitted.</p> - -<div id="ip_118" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24.375em;"> - <img src="images/i_118.jpg" width="390" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">MACKENZIE AND THE MEN JUMPED OVERBOARD.</div></div> - -<p>After carrying around the nearest obstacles they -pushed off again, but the force of the current was so -great as to drive the canoe sideways down the river -again and break her. Mackenzie and the men jumped -overboard, but before they could straighten her course -or stop her they came to deeper water, and were obliged -to re-embark, one man being left behind in the river. -Almost immediately they drove against a rock, which -shattered the stern of the canoe, and now the vessel -darted to the other side of the river and the bow was -smashed as well as the stern. The foreman tried to -check her by holding to branches of a tree, but was -pulled out of the canoe and ashore. A moment later -she struck some rocks, which broke several large holes in -the bottom, and in a moment every one was overboard -trying to hold up the wreck. The strength of the current, -however, forced them down the stream several -hundred yards, but at last the vessel was guided into -shallow water, and an eddy, and there stopped and -dragged to shore. In a short time the man that they -had left behind joined them, and they were now able to -see what their condition was. They had lost some of -their baggage and the whole of their stock of balls, but -they still had some lead in the form of shot, from which -bullets might be made. The men were frightened and -anxious to get back, but a liberal dose of rum with a -hearty meal and some encouraging words from their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119">119</a></span> -leader quieted their fears, and made them willing to go -on. Men were sent off to look for bark with which to -repair the canoe and also to look for the main river, -which their guide told them was not far distant. These -men came back with unsatisfactory reports, declaring -that the river they were following was quite impracticable, -while they had not been able to see the other -larger river.</p> - -<p>The next day the canoe, having been repaired, was -lightened and a part of the men took her slowly down -the river, while the remainder carried the baggage -along the shore. It was evident that this stream could -not be followed much farther, and again exploring parties -were sent out to see if the great river could not be -found. They saw it, but declared that to reach it -would be very difficult. That night Mackenzie, as -usual, sat up to watch the guide, so that he should not -desert, but Mr. Mackay, who relieved him, permitted -the man to slip away, and he was not seen again. The -river that they were descending became more and more -swift and rough, and was, in fact, wholly impracticable. -It was now determined to cut a way for the canoe -across a neck of the land, and at eight o’clock that night -they had the inexpressible satisfaction of finding themselves -“on the bank of a navigable river on the western -side of the first great range of mountains.”</p> - -<p>Rain the next morning postponed their start until -eight o’clock, when they were on the water and driven -by a strong current, which, though it carried them -along swiftly, was perfectly safe, since the river seemed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120">120</a></span> -deep. The stream was constantly joined by other -rivers, and after a time it broadened out and the current -became slow, so that they proceeded with more -deliberation. An Indian cabin of recent construction -was seen on the shore, and toward night a smoke on -the bank indicated natives.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121">121</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER MACKENZIE</span> - -<span class="subhead">III</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">The</span> next day the forests seemed to be on fire, -since clouds of thick smoke rose from the wood -with a strong odor of burning resin. On the -afternoon of June 19 they saw smoke on the shore, but -before they could reach land the natives had deserted -their camp. Mackenzie sent his Indians after them, -but they were threatening and discharged five arrows -which, however, did no harm. They had left some -property behind them which the men desired to take -with them. A few things were taken and some useful -implements were left in exchange. The next morning -they were off early in a fog, and saw two “red deer” at -the edge of the water. Another was seen and might -have been killed, but for the dog which frightened it. -These, Mackenzie says, are “not so large as the elk of -the Peace River, but are the real red deer, which I -never saw in the north, though I have been told that -they are to be found in great numbers in the plains.” -Here the natives had stripped the bark from many of -the spruce-trees, presumably to roof their cabins. A<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122">122</a></span> -house was seen thirty feet long and twenty wide, evidently -intended for occupation by more than one family.</p> - -<p>The constant accidents to which their canoe had been -subjected, and the carrying it from place to place, had -so racked and broken it that it seemed almost hopeless -to go farther in it. On Friday, the 22d, Mackenzie, -recognizing the possibility that on his return he might -have nothing to eat, made a cache of ninety pounds of -pemmican in a deep hole, over which a fire was built.</p> - -<p>The next day, as they went on, they saw a small -canoe drawn up to the edge of the woods, and soon -after another came out from a small river. The man -who was in it called to his friends, who at once appeared -on the bank, armed with bows, arrows and spears. -Although they were evidently much alarmed, they were -very threatening in their gestures, and let fly a volley -of arrows, which did no harm. Mackenzie landed on -the other side of the river and stopped there, his interpreters -trying to pacify the Indians, but without success. -Two men went off in a canoe down the river, apparently -to procure assistance. Mackenzie, now having -taken the precaution to send one of his Indians with a -gun into the woods to keep within easy reach of them -and to shoot any one who might attack him, walked -along the beach and invited the Indians to come over -and see him, while his interpreter declared to them -that these people were his friends. At length two -natives came over in a canoe, but stopped a hundred -yards from the shore. Mackenzie signalled to them -to come to land, showing them various articles which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123">123</a></span> -might be attractive, such as looking-glasses, beads, and -other things. Very slowly they drew nearer to the -shore, but at first would not venture to land. At last -they came near enough to get some beads, and were -persuaded to come ashore and to sit down. It was -found that his interpreters could talk with these people, -but though Mackenzie tried to persuade them to come -to his canoe they did not wish to, and asked his permission -to go back to their own side of the river. This -he granted, and their return to their friends was evidently -a matter of great rejoicing, while the articles -that they took back with them were examined with the -greatest curiosity. After a little time the white men -were asked to come over to their side, which they did. -The Indians were still timid, but the distribution of a -few trinkets among them and a little sugar to the children -seemed to strengthen their confidence.</p> - -<p>These people reported that the river ran to the south -and that at its mouth white people were said to be -building houses. There were rapids and falls and also -very terrible people along the shores; people who lived -in underground houses, and who might do them great -harm. The night was spent here.</p> - -<p>Still travelling in his crazy canoe, Mackenzie kept -on. Before long he came to a camp, the Indians of -which, as usual, threatened, but the new friends made -the day before soon set their fears at rest. Among the -Indians here was a Rocky Mountain captive, taken by -the Crees, who had carried her across the mountains, -but she had escaped from them, and in the effort to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124">124</a></span> -return to her own people had been captured by the -tribe with whom she was now living. As he saw more -and more of these natives he found not a few people -from the Rocky Mountains with whom his own hunters -could perfectly well converse, and under these circumstances -he did everything in his power to learn about -the course of the river down which he was passing. -There was evidently a considerable trade between the -coast and the upper country, for iron, brass, copper, -and beads were had from the west.</p> - -<p>Mackenzie now had remaining about thirty days’ -provisions, and not more than one hundred and fifty -balls, with about thirty pounds of shot, which also -might be used for balls, though with considerable waste. -He was somewhat doubtful what to do, not only on -account of the shortness of his supplies, but because of -the great length of time that it would take him to journey -to the sea and return. If he went to the coast by -this river it would seem impossible to reach Athabaska -the same season. He now called a council and asked -the advice of his people, saying that he wished to try to -reach the ocean overland, because he thought it would -be a saving of time, but declared that he would not -attempt to do this, but would go by water unless they -would agree that if the land journey proved impracticable -they would return with him and continue the voyage -to the discharge of the waters, whatever the distance -might be. The men were most loyal, and all -declared that they would follow him wherever he should -go. He now set out to go back up the river to that point<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125">125</a></span> -which should seem nearest to the seashore. Their -guide preferred to travel on the shore, and although -Mackenzie did not greatly like this, he thought it unwise -to oppose him. The next day, as some of the -men were walking along the shore with the guide, they -met some Indians who threatened them. The guide -ran away, and Mackenzie’s people kept with him. -Finally the guide escaped from them and the people -returned to their leader. Every one was now greatly -alarmed, no one understanding what had happened, -nor why the Indians were frightened, or enraged, whichever -it might be. Mackenzie’s people were absolutely -panic-stricken, and it was all he could do to hold them -together. They selected a position calculated for defence -and distributed arms and ammunition.</p> - -<p>Now followed a time of great anxiety. A young -woman came to the camp, but they could secure no -information from her. That night an old blind man -was captured, returning to the house, having been -driven from his hiding-place in the woods by hunger. -He was fed and well treated and soon gained confidence. -Occasionally an Indian was seen on the river -in a canoe, but none of them would approach nor reply -to any calls. At length, Mackenzie decided to -leave this place and to continue up the river. The -canoe was absolutely unfit for service, and one man -was kept bailing all the time, to keep her afloat. On -the 27th they stopped at an island where there seemed -to be on the mainland trees which would furnish the -proper material for a new canoe, and here they stopped<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126">126</a></span> -and built one. Here, too, their guide, who had deserted -them at the time of the panic, returned, claiming -great credit for keeping the promise that he had earlier -made to them. On the 1st of July, however, he left -them again, with his companions, and went up the -river. The old man they still had with them, but he -was anxious to get away. The canoe having been completed -and proving serviceable, they started up the -river from this island, which they had named Canoe -Island. It now seemed necessary to reduce the rations, -again cutting the people down to two meals a day, -which they did not at all like. Their food now consisted -chiefly of the dried roes of fish, boiled with a little -flour and grain, so as to make a substantial and not -unpleasant dish. At Canoe Island flies had been very -troublesome, so that Mackenzie says, “During our -stay there we had been most cruelly tormented by -flies, particularly by sand-flies, which I am disposed to -consider as the most tormenting insect of its kind in -nature.”</p> - -<p>The way up the river was difficult, often impracticable -for paddles, and it was hard to use a tow-line -on account of the steepness of the banks. On July 3 -they reached a point which answered to the description -of the place where they should leave the stream to go -overland to the west, and here a river came in, which -Mackenzie calls West Road River. Some of the men -thought it would be better to keep on up the stream a -little farther, in the hope of finding an easier crossing, -although at this point there was a beaten trail. They<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127">127</a></span> -proceeded, therefore, and before long met their guide, -who apparently had twice deserted. He was accompanied -by some other Indians, called Nascud Denee, -who were friendly, and who declared that from their -village, a little farther up the stream, the road to the -sea was short.</p> - -<p>On reaching the place where they were to leave the -river, Mackenzie cached some pemmican, wild rice, -Indian corn, powder, and trade goods, and also took -the canoe out of the water, placed it bottom up on a -platform and protected it as well as possible. They -now started on their foot journey, carrying about four -hundred pounds of pemmican, the instruments, some -goods, and their arms and ammunition.</p> - -<p>The journey westward was slow and difficult. They -met many people, all of whom were friendly, and when -their guide left them, as he did in a day or two, they -succeeded in procuring other guides for short distances -from the various villages that they passed, and -went forward with comparatively little difficulty, although -the almost continuous rain was unpleasant -enough. The people whom they met as they proceeded -showed more and more evidences of intercourse with -the whites, having a number of articles obtained by -trade. Most of these people seemed to belong to different -small tribes of Athabaskan stock. They seemed -less and less surprised at the appearance of the white -men and, while still more or less astonished at their -fire-arms, did not appear to be frightened by the explosions. -Game was so scarce that practically none was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128">128</a></span> -killed, their provisions being largely fish, obtained from -the natives or caught by themselves. The killing one -day of two eagles and three gray partridges is important -enough to be mentioned.</p> - -<p>Mackenzie describes in considerable detail some of -the houses of the Indians which he passed. He notes -also, on July 14, that he had reached a place where it is -the practice of the Indians to burn the bodies of their -dead. On the 15th they fell in with a village of particularly -clean and attractive people, who were on their -way to the sea with articles for trade with the white -people. They said that in view of the fact that the -women and children with them could not travel fast -it would be three days before they could reach the end -of their journey. This was welcome news to the explorer.</p> - -<p>Before they had gone very far, however, these people -changed their minds, and determined to go to the sea -by a different and somewhat longer route, and so the -white men separated from them, having procured guides -from four new Indians, who had just joined the party -and belonged to a tribe Mackenzie had not yet seen.</p> - -<p>The way was difficult, full of swamps and fallen timber. -Ground-hogs were seen, and a number of them -captured, and before long a deer was killed. They -were now high up in the mountains, and were marching -through the snow. The country became very -rough and they travelled along precipices, while snow-covered -peaks frowned on them from above. On these -mountains, according to their guides, were many animals,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129">129</a></span> -which, “from their description, must be wild -goats.” The timber grew very large.</p> - -<p>On this day their guide hurried ahead, leaving the -laden white people to follow, and when it grew dark -the men were anxious to stop for the night, but Mackenzie -pushed on, and at last reached a village where -he saw fires with people cooking over them. He entered -a house and shook hands, and the people directed -him to go to a large house, where he was cordially -received and fed with roasted salmon. A little later -they were regaled on salmon roes, pounded fine, beaten -up and flavored with something bitter, which we may -conjecture to have been soap ollalie. The natives here -were capturing salmon with their dip nets and by weirs. -They were kindly and hospitable, and had very strong -beliefs and feelings with regard to their fish. Mackenzie -declared that they never taste flesh, and that -one of their dogs having swallowed part of a bone left -at the camp-fire was beaten by his master till he disgorged -it. A bone having been thrown into the river -by one of Mackenzie’s people, a young man dived, -brought it up and put it in the fire, and then proceeded -to wash his polluted hands. The chief of the tribe declined -to let the white men have a canoe because they -had with them some deer meat, which, if put in the -canoe on their river, would cause the fish to leave the -river, so that the people must starve. Mackenzie -asked what he should do with the meat, and the Indian -told him to give it to a native present who belonged to a -tribe of flesh eaters. The canoe was then loaned them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130">130</a></span> -These people seemed to belong to a different family -from the Chipewyans; at least Mackenzie says their -language appeared to have no resemblance to that of -the Atnahs. Seven natives with two canoes took the -explorers and their baggage down the river. They -travelled fast, and the skill of the Indians greatly impressed -Mackenzie, who says: “I had imagined that -the Canadians who accompanied me were the most -expert canoemen in the world, but they are very inferior -to these people, as they themselves acknowledge, -in conducting those vessels.”</p> - -<p>Just above a village the whole party landed, the Indians -preceding the white men to announce their approach. -When they reached the village they found it -in a turmoil, the natives armed and rushing about apparently -in a great state of alarm. There was nothing -to do except to face the music, and Mackenzie walked -boldly forward into the midst of the village, when most -of the people laid aside their arms and came forward -to meet them. He shook hands with those nearest to -him, when suddenly an elderly man broke through -the crowd and embraced him, as did also a younger -man, the chief’s son. Another son of the old chief approached, -and as Mackenzie stepped forward to shake -hands with him the younger fellow broke the string -of a handsome robe of sea-otter skin which he had on -and put it over Mackenzie’s shoulders. The chief -took Mackenzie to his house, and treated him in a most -hospitable manner. He was offered a dish made of the -dried inner bark of the hemlock tree, soaked in fresh<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131">131</a></span> -salmon oil. Food was plenty here, for the salmon run -was at its height. Fish were drying on lines strung all -about the village. These people were also very careful -that nothing should be done to alarm their fish. -They objected to water being taken from the river in -an iron kettle, on the ground that the salmon disliked -the smell of iron. Wooden boxes for holding water -were given the explorers, however. Here were seen -panels made of thick cedar boards, neatly joined and -painted with hieroglyphics and figures of different animals, -such as are commonly seen on the coast.</p> - -<p>Here Mackenzie was obliged to do some doctoring, -and he describes the methods of the native physicians -in treating their patients.</p> - -<p>Mackenzie had several times asked the chief for -canoes to take the party to the sea, but his requests -had received little attention. When, however, he tried -to take an observation the chief objected, not, apparently, -because the natives were afraid of the instruments, -but because their use might frighten the salmon -from that part of the river. Just as they were about -to embark in the large canoe, forty-five feet long, four -feet wide, and three and a half feet in depth, it was discovered -that an axe was missing, and there was a short -halt. Mackenzie’s resolution procured the return of -the axe, and they went on. Villages were seen along -the river, and once or twice they stopped. The people -they passed seemed to have more and more articles of -European manufacture, and they treated Mackenzie -very well. On the evening of this day, at a village<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132">132</a></span> -where they stopped, Mackenzie says, “I could perceive, -personally, the termination of the river and its discharge -into an arm of the sea.”</p> - -<p>The Indians now seemed unwilling to go farther, -but two of them were persuaded to keep on, and, taking -another canoe, about eight o’clock on Saturday, -July 20, they left the river and reached an arm of the -sea. The tide was out, and the large mud flats, seaweed -covered, were bare. Gulls, eagles, and ducks -were seen. The weather was boisterous, and before -long they put ashore in a cove for the night. One of -the young natives here deserted, but, being pursued, -was brought back. Since they had left the river porpoises -and sea-otter—or seals—had been continually -in sight. Fresh water was had from streams running -down the mountains, and just after dark the young -chief from up the river came into camp with a large -porcupine, which was eagerly devoured by the half-starved -men. The next day they came across three -canoes with fifteen people, one of whom seemed to have -had some trouble with white men not long before. -The people they now met were somewhat annoying, for -they begged, pilfered, and seemed to wish to see everything -that the white men possessed. They constantly -spoke of a white man named Macubah, very likely -meaning Vancouver, and for the negative distinctly -answered “No, no.”</p> - -<p>On the face of a rock at this point Mackenzie inscribed, -with vermilion, a brief note, “Alexander Mackenzie, -from Canada, by land, the 22d July, 1793.”<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133">133</a></span> -Here also he was able to establish his position with -some exactness, and this done he started to return. -At a village near the mouth of the river a number of -people rushed toward Mackenzie, apparently about to -attack him, and it seemed that these were the ones who -had been fired on by the white people not long before. -Mackenzie stood ready with his gun, and the Indians, -seeing his attitude, dropped their knives. There was -something of a scuffle, though Mackenzie was uninjured, -and the Indians made off with his hat and cloak. -After a little while, the young chief returning, explained -that the men belonging to the canoes which -had met them below in an inlet, had declared that -the white people had killed four of their party. An -explanation that this statement was false brought -about a hollow truce, but relations were still somewhat -strained. The Indians brought them food, -however, and gave them setting poles, all of which -were paid for.</p> - -<p>Mackenzie’s people were very much frightened, and -were determined to leave the canoe and to start on -foot over the mountains. So firm was this resolution -that they threw everything that they had, except their -blankets, into the river. Mackenzie, however, with his -usual patience and resolution, set to work to guide them -in the right way, and declaring that, now he had accomplished -his object, he had no other object but the -common safety, that he wished to return in the easiest -and safest way, and that one of their party was sick -and could not travel, and that they must stay with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134">134</a></span> -him. The result of this was that his people agreed -that they would continue to follow him; but several -of them declared that they would not again enter -the canoe, of which they were much afraid. Five men, -therefore, including Mackenzie and the sick Indian, -entered the canoe, and made their slow way up the -river. When they came in sight of a house they saw -the young Indian, who had left them a day or two -before, coming toward them with six people in a canoe. -This encouraged them, as showing that the natives who -had been spreading here reports about them had not -been listened to. At this village they were treated well. -At the main village above, the old chief received them -as cordially as before, and fed them on fish and berries.</p> - -<p>Farther up the river it appeared that a sick man, to -whom Mackenzie had given some simple remedy, had -died, and it was feared that the death might have been -attributed to this remedy. Above this point they again -took to the trail. They were very suspicious of the -Indians, as the Indians were of them, and were constantly -alarmed; and a panic in one party was succeeded -by a panic in the other. At other villages they -were kindly received, and various presents were given -them, and Mackenzie devotes many pages to a description -of the habits of these people. When they left the -friendly village each man carried about twenty pounds -of fish, and they also had a little flour and some pemmican. -The sick Indian was slightly better, but could -not travel fast, and in crossing rapids or difficult streams -Mackenzie carried him on his back.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135">135</a></span> -It was now the last of July, the weather was warmer, -the grass green, and the wild fruits ripe. High up on -the mountains, though, the snow still clung, and the -frost was hard. They were now marching fast, and as -they went along they recovered from time to time the -provisions that they had hid on their westward journey. -On the 4th of August they reached the place -where they had left their canoe, and found all their -property in good order. There was not a footprint -near their cache. The Indians whom they met near -at hand were frightened at first, but soon became -friendly. Notwithstanding the fact that they had left -the property of the explorer absolutely untouched, they -took away from the camp a variety of small articles, -which Mackenzie recovered by informing them that the -salmon, which was their favorite food and necessary to -their existence, came from the sea which belonged to -the white men, and that since at the entrance of the -river it was possible to prevent those fish from coming -up it, the white man possessed the power to starve the -Indians and their children. “To avert our anger, therefore, -they must return all the articles which had been -stolen from us. This finesse succeeded.”</p> - -<p>On the 6th of August, they embarked in their canoe -on their return journey. The stream was full of salmon, -and the work of pushing up the river was slow -and difficult, but they were on the march toward home. -Rains were frequent, but not long continued. On the -15th they reached the place where the canoe had been -wrecked on the 13th of June, and made unsuccessful<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136">136</a></span> -search for the bag of balls then lost. The following day -they came to the Continental Divide, and it was here -that Mackenzie had the thought of transferring some -living salmon from the head of the Columbia to that of -the Peace River. But, like most of his men, he was -now in pretty bad condition from privation, excessive -labor and cold, and he was unable to carry out the desire. -On the 17th they carried across from the little -lake to Peace River, and started down that stream. -The passage was swift, and on the 18th they went down -in one day what it had taken them seven to come up.</p> - -<p>They were now again reduced to a short allowance -of food, and Mr. Mackay and the Indians were sent -ahead to try and kill something, while the remainder of -the party began to repair the canoe and to carry the -baggage around the rapid, which, on their ascent, they -had called Rocky Mountain Portage. About sunset -Mr. Mackay returned with the flesh of a buffalo, and -we may imagine the sensations of these northmen when -they again put their teeth into this familiar food. The -journey down the river continued swift, and they were -careful to land at the head of each rapids and inspect -it, but the canoe being light they passed over most -places without difficulty. The hunters killed fat meat, -and Mackenzie gives an idea of the appetites by saying -that, in three meals, ten people and a dog ate up -an elk.</p> - -<p>On the 23d they were passing through a beautiful -country full of buffalo, and on this day they killed a -buffalo and a bear. On the 24th of August they rounded<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137">137</a></span> -a point and came in view of the fort. “We threw out -our flag and accompanied it with a general discharge -of fire-arms, while the men were in such spirits, and -made such an active use of their paddles, that we -arrived before the two men whom we left here in the -spring could recover their senses to answer us. Thus -we landed at four in the afternoon at the place which -we left on the 9th of May. Here my voyages of discovery -terminate. Their toils and their dangers, their -solicitudes and sufferings have not been exaggerated in -my descriptions.... I received, however, the reward -of my labors, for they were crowned with success.”</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138">138</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">LEWIS AND CLARK</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Most</span> famous of all the pathfinders of the United -States are Lewis and Clark, explorers of the -Missouri River to its headwaters, and of the -Columbia from the heads of some of its chief tributaries -to the Pacific; and thus the spanners of the -continent. They were not, it is true, the first to -traverse the wilderness which lay between the Atlantic -and the Pacific, but of those who bore the name American -they were the first.</p> - -<p>In 1803 Louisiana was ceded by France to the United -States for the sum of about fifteen millions of dollars; -but its boundaries were entirely uncertain, and neither -the nation which sold nor that which bought knew what -this territory included, how far it extended north or -south or west, nor who nor what were its inhabitants. -It was certain that there were a few French, Spaniards, -and Creoles, besides some Americans, English, and -Germans, and the slaves which they possessed. Little -was known of the country, save for a short distance -beyond the Mississippi River; and it was obviously<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139">139</a></span> -important to the new owners of the land to find out at -once what the purchase meant to the United States.</p> - -<p>One thing seemed certain: the population of the -United States, which had already spread far beyond -the Allegheny Mountains, was constantly increasing -and constantly pushing westward. The encroachments -of the whites on the territory occupied by various tribes -of the Indians were continual, and the Indians, naturally -enough, resented, and sometimes resisted, these -encroachments. Here, west of the Mississippi River, -was a vast territory, unoccupied save by Indian tribes, -many of which were wanderers. The population of -this unoccupied territory was so sparse that no doubt it -seemed to President Jefferson that here was room for -all the Indians east of the Mississippi, and one of his -first acts after the cession was concluded, was to attempt -to learn what he could with regard to the occupancy -of this territory, presumably in the hope that -all the Indians east of the Mississippi might be persuaded -to move westward beyond the river.</p> - -<p>Besides this, Jefferson had already—more than ten -years before—endeavored to send out men to cross the -continent to the Pacifice coast, but the effort had failed. -But in January, 1803, before the completion of the -purchase of Louisiana, he attempted this once more, -recommending to Congress the despatching of a party -to trace the Missouri River to its source, and to go thence -to the Pacific Ocean.</p> - -<p>It is impossible for any man now living to conceive -what such an expedition must have meant to the men<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140">140</a></span> -who were to command it. Here was a vast and unknown -territory of indefinite width, peopled by unknown -inhabitants, uncertain as to its food supply, -containing unknown dangers and obstacles, which must -be crossed on foot—though the journey should be begun -by boat. It is true that the rumors long before -brought back from the upper Mississippi Valley by -Carver suggested waterways across the continent, but -these were no more than rumors, and were mingled -with an amount of fable which cast doubt on the -whole story.</p> - -<p>Carver’s reflections on the Shining Mountains, already -quoted, were the most definite statements that -Jefferson or his explorers could have had of that far -Western country. It is true that a few Hudson’s Bay -men had already penetrated as far west as the Rocky -Mountains, which Mackenzie had crossed ten years -before, yet it may be doubted whether any definite -knowledge of this great achievement had as yet -reached Washington.</p> - -<p>The journey which Lewis and Clark were to make -was into a wilderness less known than any that we in -our day can conceive of.</p> - -<p>The two men prepared to carry out their orders and -there is no reason to suppose that they felt any doubt -of their own success. Both came of good, old-fashioned -fighting and exploring stock and they and all their -men were made of the stuff which constituted the old-time -Americans. Theirs was the sturdy independence, -the unshrinking courage and dogged perseverance in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141">141</a></span> -the face of difficulty which gave to America its Daniel -Boone, its David Crockett, and its Zebulon M. Pike; -and they set out with eagerness on their journey.</p> - -<p>The expedition started late in the year 1803, and -proceeded up the river by boat. There were about -forty-five men at the start, of whom twenty-five were -soldiers, the whole company being enlisted as soldiers -a little later. The baggage of the outfit consisted -chiefly of ammunition, together with goods to be used -as presents for the Indians. The transportation consisted -of boats; one a keel boat, fifty-five feet long, -drawing three feet of water, fitted for twenty-two oars -and a sail; the other two were pirogues, open boats, -dug-outs no doubt, one of six, the other of seven oars. -There were two horses, which were to be taken along -the bank for the purpose of hunting in time of scarcity, -or for bringing in game that was killed.</p> - -<p>Having wintered at Wood River, in Illinois, the start -was made on the 14th of May, 1804. At first their -progress was not rapid. Nevertheless, before long they -came to the country of the Osages. The story given -of the origin of the tribe is worth repeating: “According -to universal belief, the founder of the nation was -a snail, passing a quiet existence along the banks of -the Osage, till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri -and left him exposed on the shore. The heat -of the sun at length ripened him into a man; but with -the change of his nature he had not forgotten his native -seats on the Osage, toward which he immediately bent -his way. He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142">142</a></span> -and fatigue, when, happily, the Great Spirit appeared -and, giving him a bow and arrow, showed him -how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself with the -skin. He then proceeded to his original residence; but -as he approached the river he was met by a beaver, -who inquired, haughtily, who he was and by what -authority he came to disturb his possession. The -Osage answered that the river was his own, for he had -once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the -daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties -reconciled her father to this young stranger, it -was proposed that the Osage should marry the young -beaver and share with her family the enjoyment of the -river. The Osage readily consented, and from this -happy union there soon came the village and the nation -of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have ever since -preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining -from the chase of the beaver, because in killing that -animal they killed a brother of the Osage.”</p> - -<p>Struggling on northward, Lewis and Clark passed the -Otoes and Missourias, and on June 25 reached the -mouth of the Kansas—named from the Indians living -on its banks—three hundred and forty miles from the -Mississippi. Game was abundant, and there are allusions -to deer, elk, and buffalo. At the mouth of the -Platte River they sent out messengers to bring in Indians, -since a portion of their duty was to endeavor to -make peace among the different tribes they met with. -Otoes and Pawnees lived not far off, one of the Pawnee -villages being then on the Platte, while another was on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143">143</a></span> -the Republican, and a third on the Wolf—now known -as the Loup River. Incidental reference is here made -to several tribes which wandered and hunted on the -heads of the Platte River, and thence to the Rocky -Mountains.</p> - -<p>One of these, called the Staitan or Kite Indians, is -said to have acquired the name of Kite from their -flying; that is, from “their being always on horseback.” -These Indians were, of course, the Suhtai—<i>Suhtai</i>, -tribal name, and <i>hētăn</i>, man. In other words, -when some Indian was asked his name or the name of -his tribe, he replied: “I am a man of the Suhtai,” -and this the explorers supposed was a tribal name. At -that time the tribe was still living as an independent -tribe, though about a generation later they joined the -Cheyennes and finally became absorbed by them. So -complete is this absorption that the Suhtai language, -formerly a well-marked dialect of the Cheyenne, differing -from it apparently almost as much as the Arikara -dialect differs from the Pawnee, has been almost -wholly lost. At the present day only a few of the -older Cheyennes can recall any of its words. These -Indians were said to be extremely ferocious, and the -most warlike of all the Western Indians; they never -yielded in battle, nor spared their enemies, and the -retaliation for this barbarity had almost extinguished -the nation. After these, according to our authors, come -the Wetapahato and Kiawa tribes, associated together, -and amounting to two hundred men. Wetapahato is the -Sioux name for the Kiowas, which the Cheyennes have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144">144</a></span> -abbreviated to Witapat. Other tribes are mentioned, -hardly now to be identified.</p> - -<p>On July 31 a party of Otoe and Missouria Indians -came to their camp, and on the following day a council -was held, at which presents, medals, and other ornaments -were given to the Indians. The point where this -council was held was given the name Council Bluffs, -and it stands to-day across the river from Omaha, -Nebraska. A little farther up the river they reached -an old Omaha village, once consisting of three hundred -cabins, but it had been burned about 1799, soon after -the small-pox had destroyed four hundred men and a -proportion of the women and children. This dread -disease gave the Omahas the worst blow that they had -ever received, and, perhaps even as much as their wars -with the Pawnees, reduced them to a tributary people. -On August 16, two parties were sent out to catch fish -on a little stream. “They made a drag with small willows -and bark, and swept the creek; the first company -brought three hundred and eighteen, and the second -upward of eight hundred, consisting of pike, bass, fish -resembling salmon, trout, redhorse, buffalo, one rock-fish, -one flatback, perch, catfish, a small species of -perch, called on the Ohio silverfish, and a shrimp of -the same size, shape, and flavor of those about New -Orleans and the lower part of the Mississippi.”</p> - -<p>A few days before, one of their Frenchmen had deserted, -and the commanding officers had sent out men -to capture him. This they succeeded in doing, but the -man subsequently escaped again. On the 18th they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145">145</a></span> -received another party of Indians—Otoes and Missourias. -The next day the first death occurred in the expedition, -that of Charles Floyd, who was buried on -the top of the hill, and his grave marked by a cedar -post.</p> - -<p>The post which marked Floyd’s grave had been -thrown down by the winds before 1839, but was set -up again by Joseph Nicollet in that year. All the -time, however, the Missouri River was eating into the -bank toward the grave, and in the spring of 1857 the -high water undermined a part of the bluff and left -Floyd’s coffin exposed. When this became known at -Sioux City, a party visited the grave and rescued the -bones, reinterring them six hundred feet back from -the first grave. This spot was lost again in the course -of the years, but was rediscovered in 1895, and finally -in 1901 a permanent monument of white stone was -erected to the first citizen soldier of the United States -to die and be buried within the Louisiana Purchase, -and the only man lost on the Lewis and Clark expedition.</p> - -<p>Farther up the stream, beyond the mouth of the -Big Sioux River, they killed their first buffalo. Near -the mouth of the Whitestone they found a curious -mound, described as a regular parallelogram, the -longest side being three hundred yards, and the shorter -sixty or seventy. It rises sixty-five or seventy feet -above the plain, and shows at the summit a level -plain about twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. -This, according to the Sioux, was called the Hill of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146">146</a></span> -Little People, and “they believe that it is the abode of -little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches -high, and with remarkably large heads; they are armed -with sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, -and are always on the watch to kill those who should -have the hardihood to approach their residence.” Many -Indians have been killed by these spirits, and, among -“others, three Omaha Indians, only a few years before. -The Sioux, Omahas, and Otoes are so afraid of the -place that they never visit it.”</p> - -<p>The wind blows so strongly over the plain in which -this mound stands that insects are obliged to seek -shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against it. -The little birds which feed on these insects resort there -in great numbers to pick them up. There the brown -martin was so employed, and the birds were so tame -that they would not fly until closely approached.</p> - -<p>At Calumet Bluff the party was visited by a number -of Yankton Sioux, brought in by Sergeant Pryor and -his party, who had gone to the village to induce them -to come to the river. A council was held with these -Indians and presents given them; and in the evening -the Indians danced for the entertainment of the white -men. To the Durions—Frenchmen who were trading -with these Indians—presents were given; and they were -requested to try to make peace between the Yanktons -and their enemies.</p> - -<p>Reference is made to the soldier bands of the Sioux -and Cheyennes, though without much comprehension -of what this organization is. It is spoken of in these<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147">147</a></span> -terms: “It is an association of the most active and -brave young men, who are bound to each other by attachment, -secured by a vow never to retreat before any -danger or give way to their enemies. In war they go -forward without sheltering themselves behind trees or -aiding their natural valor by any artifice. This punctilious -determination not to be turned from their course -became heroic or ridiculous a short time since, when -the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. -A hole lay immediately in their course, which might -easily have been avoided by going round. This the -foremost of the band disdained to do, but went straight -forward, and was lost. The others would have followed -his example, but were forcibly prevented by the -rest of the tribe. The young men sit, and encamp, and -dance together, distinct from the rest of the nation; -they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old, -and such is the deference paid to courage that their -seats in council are superior to those of the chiefs, and -their persons more respected. But, as may be supposed, -such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the -numbers of those who practice it, so that the band is -now reduced to four warriors, who were among our -visitors. These were the remains of twenty-two, who -composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle -with the Kite Indians of the Black Mountains, eighteen -of them were killed, and these four were dragged from -the field by their companions.”</p> - -<p>Warrior societies, or, as they are more often termed, -soldier bands, existed among all the plains tribes. In<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148">148</a></span> -some tribes there might be only four, in others a dozen -or fifteen, such societies. They were police officers, -and among their important duties was the seeing that -orders of the chiefs were obeyed.</p> - -<p>The list of the Sioux tribes here given includes the -Yanktons, the Tetons of the Burned Woods—now -called Brulés; the Tetons Okandandas—now known -as Ogallalas; the Teton Minnakenozzo—Minneconjous; -the Teton Saone—Santees; Yanktons of the -Plains—Yanktonnaies; the Mindawarcarton—Minnewakaton; -the Wahpatoota—Wahpatones; the Sistasoone—Sissetons.</p> - -<p>Not far beyond Calumet Bluffs were found extraordinary -earthworks, said by the explorers and French -interpreters to be common on the Platte, the Kansas, -and the James rivers. The Poncas were next passed, -above La Rivière qui Court—the Niobrara. These -are said to have been largely reduced in numbers by -the attacks of their enemies, and to be now associating -with the Omahas, and residing on the head of the Loup -and the Running Water. Above here the first prairie -dogs were seen; and not long after they were rejoined -by one of their men who, twelve days before, had been -sent off after lost horses, and, having found them, had -been wandering along the river for twelve days, seeking -his party. Mention is made on September 17 of a -great prairie dog town, and it is told that their presence -here enticed to this place “wolves of a small kind, -hawks, and polecats, all of which animals we saw, and -presume that they fed on the squirrels.” The whole<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149">149</a></span> -country here had recently been burned, and was now -covered with young grass, on which herds of antelope -and buffalo were feeding.</p> - -<p>On the 20th the party had a narrow escape from -being buried under a falling bank, undermined by the -river. On this day a fort and a large trading house -built by Mr. Loizel for the purpose of trading with the -Sioux was passed on Cedar Island, and the following -day Indians stole one of their horses. They had now -come to the country of the Teton Indians, and, holding -a council with them, had more or less trouble, which -would undoubtedly have resulted in fighting had it not -been for the prudence of Captain Clark. The Indians -were insolent, and were disposed to go just as far as permitted -in annoying the white people. However, they -were not allowed to impose on the party, and a short -distance above this the main Teton village was passed, -and here Captains Lewis and Clark were met at the -river bank by ten young men, who carried them on -buffalo robes to the large house where the council was -to be held—an evidence of the highest respect.</p> - -<p>The custom of carrying a person who was to be highly -honored on a robe or blanket by young men is very -old. It was practised to show honor to aged or brave -people, and also if two young people of good family -were about to be married, the young girl, as she drew -near the home of the bridegroom’s parents, riding on a -horse led by some old kinswoman, was often met -by young men related to the bridegroom, who spread -down a robe or blanket, assisted her from her horse,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150">150</a></span> -asked her to sit down on the robe, and then carried her -to the lodge of her future husband.</p> - -<p>In the shelter where they met were about seventy -men, sitting about the chief, before whom were placed -a Spanish flag and an American flag which Lewis and -Clark had given him. Within the circle was the pipe, -supported on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches -from the ground, and beneath the pipe was scattered -the down of a swan. Food was cooking over the fire, -and near the kettle a large amount of buffalo meat, -intended as a present. The feast consisted of a dog, -pemmican, and pomme blanche, and was ladled into -wooden dishes with a horn spoon. After eating and -smoking, a number of dances were performed. Concerning -these, the very incorrect opinion is expressed: -“Nor does the music appear to be anything more than a -confusion of noises, distinguished only by hard or -gentle blows upon a buffalo skin; the song is perfectly -extemporaneous.” It is, of course, now well known -that these songs and dances are always the same, and -never, by any chance, change.</p> - -<p>It is noted that these Indians, who appear to have -been Ogallalas, had then a fashion of dressing the hair -different from anything recently known. The journal -says: “The men shaved the hair off their heads, except -a small tuft on the top, which they suffered to -grow, and wore in plaits over the shoulders. To this -they seemed much attached, as the loss of it is the usual -sacrifice at the death of near relations.” The dress of -men and women is described, and it is noted that the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151">151</a></span> -fire-bags of these Sioux were made of the dressed skins -of skunks. The women’s dresses were not very unlike -that of recent times.</p> - -<p>The Sioux met along the river by Lewis and Clark -were new-comers in that country. It is true that twenty-five -years before a few Sioux had crossed the Missouri -River and had gone as far west as the Black Hills—which -are constantly spoken of by Lewis and Clark -as the Black Mountains. But it is also true that up -to about the beginning of the nineteenth century few or -no Sioux had crossed the Missouri River who remained -permanently on the west bank. The accounts of many -modern writers on Indian matters seem to imply that -from time immemorial the Dakotas had roamed the -Western plains, but it is well known by those who have -given attention to the subject that this is not at all -true; that the Sioux are a people of the East, and the -tribal traditions constantly speak of their migration -from the country of the rising sun.</p> - -<p>After four days spent with these Indians, preparations -were made to proceed up the river; but the Indians -did not seem willing to let them go. They did not -show any particular hostility, but were extremely irritating, -and put the white men to so much trouble that -they were obliged to threaten them with fighting. -Even after they had at last succeeded in starting on -their journey, these Sioux followed them along the river, -and continued to annoy them.</p> - -<p>Not very far above the point where they were troubled -by the Sioux they came on a village of Arikaras, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152">152</a></span> -whom some Frenchmen were living, and among them a -Monsieur Gravelines. This man brought together the -Arikara chiefs for a conference, in which speeches were -made to them similar to those already uttered to the Indians -down the river. Some presents were given, but -the offer of liquor was declined, the Indians saying that -they were surprised that their father should present to -them a liquor which would make them fools. From -the Indians were received presents of corn, beans, and -squashes. The following day other councils were had -at other villages of the Rees; and the explorers finally -left them to go on their way. The history of this tribe -is given with substantial accuracy, and much is said -about their habits and their good disposition.</p> - -<p>Farther up the river a camp of Sioux was passed, -and beyond them a stream called Stone-Idol Creek. -This name was given from the discovery that “a few -miles back from the Missouri there are two stones resembling -human figures, and a third like a dog; all of -which are objects of great veneration among the Arikaras.”</p> - -<p>While nothing is said about the size of these figures, -one wonders whether the reference may not be to -that stone figure known as the Standing Rock, concerning -which the Yankton Sioux have a tradition. -We have not heard of the figure of a man in connection -with the Standing Rock, but there was certainly the -figure of a woman and of a dog, and the woman, who -owned the dog, is said to have been a Ree woman. -The Yankton tradition, however, is quite different from<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153">153</a></span> -that given by Lewis and Clark. Their two stone figures -are a lover and a girl whose parents declined to -permit the marriage; and these two young persons, the -man accompanied by his dog, met on the prairie, and, -after wandering about, were at last turned to stone. -The Standing Rock, which is now at Standing Rock -Agency, in North Dakota, is said to have been a Ree -woman, who, after having long been the only wife of -her husband, became jealous when he took another -wife, and, lagging behind the travelling body of the -Rees, was finally turned to stone, and remains to this -day a warning to all jealous women.</p> - -<p>A little later during the day’s journey they saw great -numbers of “goats” (antelope) coming to the banks -of the river. No doubt these animals were then migrating -toward the mountains, or perhaps to the broken -hills of the Little Missouri. On October 18 they -passed the Cannon-ball River, referred to as Le Boulet; -and here they met two Frenchmen who had been robbed -by the Mandans, but who turned about and proceeded -north again with the white men, in the hope of recovering -their possessions. Game was extremely abundant—buffalo, -elk, and deer. An Indian who was with -them pointed out to them a number of round hills, in -which he declared the calumet birds—probably the -thunder-bird—had their homes.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154">154</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX<br /> - -<span class="subhead">LEWIS AND CLARK</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap al"><span class="smcap1">As</span> they proceeded, they passed a number of ruined -villages of the Mandans, the low mounds of -earth showing where the sod houses had fallen -in; but on October 24 they came to a large Mandan -village, where they were received with friendship, and -where the chief of the Arikaras smoked with the grand -chief of the Mandans.</p> - -<p>On the 26th, at a large Mandan camp, they met a -Mr. McCracken, a trader in the employ of the Northwest -Fur Company, who was much on the Missouri -River in those early days. The younger Henry frequently -mentions him in his journal, but at a slightly -later day. The Mandans were not only most friendly, -but most interested in the strange people who had arrived -in boats; and men, women, and children crowded -to the river-bank to see them. “The object which -seemed to surprise them most was a corn-mill fixed to -the boat, which we had occasion to use, and which delighted -them by the ease with which it reduced grain -to powder,” for the Mandans, like other Indians, pulverized -their corn by pounding it in a mortar.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155">155</a></span> -On the following day their boat reached the principal -Mandan village, and here was found a Frenchman -named Jessaume, who was living among the Mandans -with an Indian wife. Not far from the Mandan village -was one of the Annahways, a tribe, according to Dr. -Matthews, closely related to the Hidatsa, or Minnetari, -a part of whose warriors were then absent on an expedition -against the Shoshoni. In speeches of the -usual form, Captains Lewis and Clark expressed the -good will of the Great Father at Washington, and his -desire that all the tribes should be at peace; and presents -and medals were distributed among the chiefs. In -the course of the next few days these presents were -returned by gifts of corn and dried meat; and the Arikara -chief set out for his home with one Mandan chief -and several Minnetari and Mandan warriors. Captain -Clark, after much investigation, found a good -situation for a winter post, and the work of felling -timber and erecting buildings began. Besides the -Mandan interpreter, Jessaume, they met here a Canadian -Frenchman, who had been with the Cheyenne -Indians “on the Black Mountains,” and the previous -summer had come by way of the Little Missouri to the -Great River. The Little Missouri was always a great -range for the Cheyennes.</p> - -<p>The weather, which for some time had been cold, -now grew much colder, and ice formed on the edges -of the rivers. Water fowl were passing south, and it -was evident that soon the river would close up. A -large camp of Assiniboines, with some Crees, had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156">156</a></span> -come to the Mandan village and encamped there. -A couple of Frenchmen made their appearance from -farther down the river. It seems extraordinary how -many Canadian Frenchmen there were at this time -in this distant country.</p> - -<p>Near Fort Mandan, just established, there were five -Indian villages, the residence of three distinct tribes, -the Mandans, the Annahways, and the Minnetari. -The journal gives the history of these nations as follows: -“Within the recollection of living witnesses -the Mandans were settled forty years ago in nine -villages (the ruins of which we passed about eighty -miles below), situated seven on the west and two on the -east side of the Missouri. The two finding themselves -wasting away before the small-pox and the Sioux, -united into one village and moved up the river opposite -to the Ricaras. The same causes reduced the remaining -seven to five villages, till at length they emigrated in -a body to the Ricara nation, where they formed themselves -into two villages and joined those of their countrymen -who had gone before them. In their new residence -they were still insecure, and at length the three -villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. -The two who had emigrated together settled in the two -villages on the northwest side of the Missouri, while the -single village took a position on the southeast side. In -this situation they were found by those who visited them -in 1796, since which the two villages have united into -one. They are now in two villages, one on the southeast -of the Missouri, the other on the opposite side,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157">157</a></span> -and at the distance of three miles across. The first, -in an open plain, contains about forty or fifty lodges, -built in the same way as those of the Ricaras; the -second, the same number, and both may raise about -three hundred and fifty men.</p> - -<p>“On the same side of the river, and at the distance -of four miles from the lower Mandan village, is another, -called Mahaha. It is situated on a high plain -at the mouth of the Knife River, and is the residence -of the Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates -that they were ‘people whose village is on a hill,’ -formerly resided on the Missouri, about thirty miles below -where they now lived. The Assiniboines and Sioux -forced them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest -part of them were put to death, and the rest emigrated -to their present situation, in order to obtain an -asylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the -French, Soulier Noir, or Black Shoe Indians; by the -Mandans, Wattasoons; and their whole force is about -fifty men.”</p> - -<p>Toward the end of November seven traders belonging -to the Northwest Company reached the Mandans, -coming from the Assiniboine River. Before long some -of them began to circulate unfavorable reports among -the Indians, and Captains Lewis and Clark found it necessary -to take immediate steps to stop this. They told -Mr. Laroche, the chief of the seven traders, that they -should not permit him to give medals and flags to the -Indians, who were under the protection of the American -nation, and would receive consideration from them alone.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158">158</a></span> -On the last day of November, word was brought that -the Sioux had attacked the Mandans, and killed one -and wounded two others, and that a number of Indians -were missing. Captain Clark, therefore, in order to fix -the loyalty of the Indians, summoned his whole force, -and arming them, set out for the Mandan village. He -told the chief who came out to meet him that he had -come to assist them in their war, and would lead them -against the Sioux, their enemies, and avenge the blood -of their countrymen. This action made a great impression -on the Mandans, and a Cheyenne captive, -who had been brought up in the tribe, and attained a -position of considerable importance, made a speech -thanking the white men for their assistance, and expressing -the confidence of the Indians in them. There -was a long talk, after which Captain Clark left the -village. The next day six Sharha (Cheyenne) Indians -came to the village, bringing the pipe of peace, and -saying that their nation was three days’ march behind -them. With the Cheyennes were three Pawnees. The -Cheyennes were at peace with the Sioux, and the Mandans -feared them and wished to put them to death, but -knowing that this would be against the wishes of their -white friends, they did nothing. Lewis and Clark note -the common practice of calling the Arikaras, Pawnees, -a practice which still exists.</p> - -<p>A little later something is said about the chief of the -Mandans, and following this comes the story of the -tribe’s origin, as given by the Mandans themselves: -“Their belief in a future state is connected with this<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159">159</a></span> -tradition of their origin: The whole nation resided in -one large village under ground, near a subterraneous -lake. A grapevine extended its roots down to their -habitation and gave them a view of the light. Some -of the most adventurous climbed up the vine, and were -delighted with the sight of the earth, which they found -covered with buffalo, and rich with every kind of fruits. -Returning with the grapes they had gathered, their -countrymen were so pleased with the taste of them that -the whole nation resolved to leave their dull residence -for the charms of the upper region. Men, women, and -children ascended by means of the vine; but when about -half the nation had reached the surface of the earth a -corpulent woman, who was clambering up the vine, -broke it with her weight and closed upon herself and -the rest of the nation the light of the sun. Those who -were left on the earth made a village below, where we -saw the nine villages; and when the Mandans die they -expect to return to the original seats of their forefathers, -the good reaching the ancient village by means of the -lake, which the burden of the sins of the wicked will not -enable them to cross.”</p> - -<p>Although the weather was cold, buffalo were near, -and there was much hunting by means of the surround, -with the bow and arrows. Captain Clark hunted with -the Indians, and killed ten buffalo, of which five only -were brought into the fort, the remainder being taken -by the Indians; since, as the buffalo were killed by guns, -they bore no mark of identification, such as an arrow -would have furnished. The next day Captain Lewis took<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160">160</a></span> -fifteen men and went out to hunt buffalo. They killed -eight and one deer; but, being obliged to travel on foot -through deep snow, it took them a long time to approach -the buffalo, and some of the men were frost-bitten.</p> - -<p>It was now mid-December, and very cold; and the -white men suffered a good deal and hunted but little. -About this time a Mr. Haney arrived from the British -post on the Assiniboine, bearing a letter from Mr. -Chabouillez, a well-known trader of the North, with -offers of service. In the Mandan village the Indians -were playing at sticks, apparently in the method practiced -at the present day among the Blackfeet. Thin -circular stones are rolled along the ground, and followed -by running men, who slide their sticks along the ground -trying to have the disk fall on them. On December -22 the explorers seem to have first seen the horns of the -Rocky Mountain sheep. It is “about the size of a -small elk or large deer, the horns winding like those of -a ram, which they resemble also in texture, though -larger and thicker.”</p> - -<p>The year 1804 opened with New Year’s day festivities, -and “in the morning we permitted sixteen men -with their music to go up to the first village, where -they delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly -with the movements of one of the Frenchmen, -who danced on his head.” Frequent mention -is made of the pleasure with which the Indians witnessed -the dancing of the Americans, and this amusement -was much indulged in by the men, many of -whom, as already said, were Frenchmen.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161">161</a></span> -Although the cold was intense and the white men -suffered severely, the Indians seemed to regard it very -little. They were coming and going constantly, very -slightly clad, and sometimes were obliged to sleep out -in the snow, with no protection save a buffalo robe; -and yet they were seldom frozen.</p> - -<p>During these months of inaction, Lewis and Clark -were frequently occupied in settling individual quarrels -among the various Indians near them, making -peace between husbands and wives and persuading the -Indians to abandon war journeys planned for the following -spring.</p> - -<p>Traders from the North were frequent visitors to -these villages. All through the winter the blacksmith -kept at work with his forge, manufacturing various -articles of iron, and the Indians seemed never to weary -of watching him and admiring the magic by which -he turned a straight piece of iron into a useful implement.</p> - -<p>During all this time hunting was going on, for -though the explorers had abundant provisions, yet -they were supporting themselves as far as possible -from the country. Besides the corn which they purchased -from the Indians, in exchange for trade goods -and bits of iron, they killed buffalo, deer, and elk; -and on one hunt, in February, Captain Clark and his -party killed forty deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. -Most of the game was too lean for use, and was left -for the wolves. A part, however, was brought to a -point on the river, and there protected in pens built<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162">162</a></span> -of logs, which should keep off the wolves, ravens, and -magpies. The next day four men were sent with -sleds and three horses, to bring in the meat. They -returned that night stating that a party of one hundred -men had rushed upon them, cut the traces of the sleds -and carried off two of the horses, the third being -left them through the influence of one of the Indians. -The Indians had also taken some of the men’s arms. -An effort was made to pursue these enemies, who -were believed to be Sioux, and Captain Lewis, with -a few Mandans, set out on their trail. This was followed -for two or three days, until at last it turned off -into the prairie. The supposition that these robbers -were Sioux was confirmed by finding some moccasins -that had been thrown away, though the Sioux had -dropped some corn in one place, apparently with the -hope of making it appear that they were Arikaras. -Before returning, Captain Clark visited the place -where the meat had been cached, and did some more -hunting; and, having killed thirty-six deer, fourteen -elk, and one wolf, he returned to the fort with about -three thousand pounds of meat.</p> - -<p>The weather was now growing milder, and preparations -began to be made for continuing the journey. -Men were sent out to look for trees suitable for canoes. -White men began to arrive from the Northwest Company’s -post, and also Mr. Gravelines, with Frenchmen -from the Arikara village down the river. These -brought word that the Rees were willing to make -peace with the Mandans and Minnetari, and asked<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163">163</a></span> -if the Mandans would be willing to have the Arikaras -settle near them, and form with them a league against -the Sioux. Word was brought that the Sioux who -had stolen the explorers’ horses had afterward gone to -the Arikara village and told what they had done, and -that the Rees were so angry at this that they had declined -to give them anything to eat; in other words, -had treated them as enemies.</p> - -<p>The river broke up late in March, and, as happened -every spring, many buffalo were brought down on -the floating ice. An interesting description is given -of how the Indians killed the buffalo floating down -on the cakes of ice, which they dared not leave. The -men ran lightly over the loose ice in the river until -they had reached the large cake on which the buffalo -stood, and, killing it there, then paddled the cake of -ice to the shore.</p> - -<p>A thunder-storm, accompanied by hail, came on -April 1—the breaking up of the winter. And now -for several days the explorers were engaged in packing -specimens to be sent back to Washington; skins -and skeletons of some of the animals of the country, -together with a number of articles of Indian dress, -arms, implements, tobacco seed, and corn, with specimens -of some plants. Arrangements were made also -for some of the chiefs of the Rees to visit the President; -and a delegation from the Rees made a peace with -the Mandans.</p> - -<p>The explorers were now ready to continue their -journey, and left the fort the afternoon of April 7.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164">164</a></span> -The party consisted of thirty-two persons, including -the interpreters, one of whom was accompanied by -his wife. At the same time their large boat, manned -by seven soldiers and two Frenchmen, set out down -the river for the distant United States.</p> - -<p>The journey up the river was slow, and it would be -too long to tell of all they saw—things then new to -all, but now common enough. The prairie and the -river bottom swarmed with game—herds of buffalo, -elk, antelope, with some deer and wolves. As they -went along they saw a nest of geese built “in the tops -of lofty cottonwood trees,” an interesting fact in natural -history, rediscovered more than fifty years later -by an enterprising ornithologist. From time to time, -as they passed up the river, they passed small abandoned -encampments of Indians, at one of which, -“from the hoops of small kegs found in them, we -judged could belong to Assiniboines only, as they -are the only Missouri Indians who use spirituous -liquors. Of these they are so passionately fond that -it forms their chief inducement to visit the British on -the Assiniboine, to whom they barter for kegs of -rum their dried and pounded meat, their grease, -and the skins of large and small wolves, and small -foxes; the dangerous exchange is transported to their -camps, with their friends and relations, and soon -exhausted in brutal intoxication. So far from considering -drunkenness as disgraceful, the women and children -are permitted and invited to share in these excesses -with their husbands and fathers, who boast how often<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165">165</a></span> -their skill and industry as hunters have supplied them -with the means of intoxication; in this, as in other -habits and customs, they resemble the Sioux, from -whom they are descended.”</p> - -<p>The recent presence of the Assiniboines on the -river had made the game scarce and shy, and it was -so early in the season that the animals killed were -very thin in flesh, and almost useless for food. Beaver, -however, were numerous, and seemed larger and fatter, -and with darker and better fur, than any seen -hitherto. They were now in the country of abundant -buffalo, and the calves had already begun to make -their appearance. On April 26 they reached the -mouth of the Yellowstone River, “known to the -French as La Roche Jaune.” Game was so plenty -that it was scarcely necessary to hunt, and they killed -only what was needed for food. The river banks -were lined with dead buffalo; some partly devoured -by wolves. The buffalo had evidently been drowned -in crossing, either by breaking through the ice or -being unable to clamber from the water when landing -under some high bluff.</p> - -<p>On April 29 Captain Lewis met his first grizzly -bear, which the explorers call white bears. “Of the -strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had -given us dreadful accounts; they never attack him but -in parties of six or eight persons, and even then are -often defeated, with the loss of one or more of the party. -Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad -guns with which the traders supply them, they are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166">166</a></span> -obliged to approach very near to the bear; and as no -wound except through the head or heart is mortal, they -frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He -rather attacks than avoids man; and such is the terror -he has inspired that the Indians who go in quest of -him paint themselves and perform all the superstitious -rites customary when they make war on a neighboring -nation. Hitherto those we had seen did not appear -desirous of encountering us, but although to a skilful -rifleman the danger is very much diminished, the white -bear is still a terrible animal. On approaching these -two, both Captain Lewis and the hunter fired, and each -wounded a bear. One of them made his escape; the -other turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him -for seventy or eighty yards; but, being badly wounded, -he could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading -his piece, which he again aimed at him, and -a third shot from the hunter brought him to the -ground.”</p> - -<p>The curiosity of the antelope is spoken of as being -often the occasion of its easy destruction. “When they -first see the hunters they run with great velocity; if he -lies down on the ground and lifts up his arm, his hat -or his foot, they return with a light trot to look at -the object, and sometimes go and return two or three -times, till they approach within reach of the rifle. So, -too, they sometimes leave their flock to go and look at -the wolves, which crouch down, and, if the antelope -is frightened at first, repeat the same manœuver, and -sometimes relieve each other till they decoy it from the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167">167</a></span> -party, when they seize it. But generally the wolves -take them as they are crossing the rivers; for, although -swift on foot, they are not good swimmers.”</p> - -<p>As the party struggled on up the Missouri they passed -the mouth of the Porcupine River, so-called from the -unusual number of porcupines seen near it. They continued -to see vast quantities of buffalo, elk, and deer—principally -of the long-tailed kind—with antelope, -beaver, geese, ducks, and swans. As they went on, -the game became much tamer. The male buffalo -would scarcely give way to them, and as the white men -drew near, looked at them for a moment and then -quietly began to graze again.</p> - -<p>On May 4 they passed some old Indian hunting -camps, “one of which consisted of two large lodges -fortified with a circular fence twenty or thirty feet in -diameter, and made of timber laid horizontally, the -beams overlaying each other to the height of five feet, -and covered with the trunks and limbs of trees that -have drifted down the river. The lodges themselves -are formed by three or more strong sticks, about the -size of a man’s leg or arm, and twelve feet long, which -are attached at the top by a withe of small willows, -and spread out so as to form at the base a circle of -from ten to fourteen feet in diameter; against these are -placed pieces of drift-wood and fallen timber, usually -in three ranges, one on the other, and the interstices -are covered with leaves, bark, and straw, so as to form -a conical figure about ten feet high, with a small aperture -in one side for the door.” These lodges, of course,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168">168</a></span> -were war lodges of the Assiniboines, Gros Ventres, or -Blackfeet, though the travellers evidently took them for -ordinary habitations.</p> - -<p>The explorers were greatly interested in the animals -they saw—especially the bears—and gave good descriptions -of them, and of their habits.</p> - -<p>The tenacity of life in the bears made them especially -interesting, and their encounters with them were often -marked by danger. However, the people usually -hunted in couples or in small parties, and as yet no one -had been hurt.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169">169</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X<br /> - -<span class="subhead">LEWIS AND CLARK</span> - -<span class="subhead">III</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">They</span> had now passed Milk River, and the Dry -Fork, and the journal says: “The game is now -in great quantities, particularly the elk and -buffalo, which last are so gentle that the men are -obliged to drive them out of the way with sticks and -stones.” Bears were abundant, and almost every day -one was killed.</p> - -<p>They were approaching the mountains, and the -spring storms, which here last until the middle of July, -troubled them with abundant rains and by obscuring -the view. On the 20th they reached the mouth of the -Musselshell, and pushing on, in a short time found -themselves among the bad lands of the upper Missouri. -They were now obliged to “cordell,” a number of the -men walking on the shore with a tow-line, while others -kept the boat off the bank. This was slow and difficult -work, and was made more dangerous by the fact -that their elk-skin ropes were getting old and rotten, -and were likely to break at critical times. On May 29 -some buffalo ran through the camp, and caused much<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170">170</a></span> -confusion and alarm, no one knowing exactly what had -happened until after it was all over. When they passed -the mouth of the Judith River they found traces of a -large camp of Indians, a hundred and twenty-six fires, -made, as they conjectured, by “The Minnetari of Fort -de Prairie,” that is, the Gros Ventres of the Prairie—Arapahoes -or Atséna. Here, too, they passed precipices -about one hundred and twenty feet high, below -which lay scattered the remains of at least a hundred -carcasses of buffalo. The method by which the buffalo -are driven over the cliffs by the upper Missouri tribes -is described. At this place the wolves which had been -feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle -that one of them was killed with a spontoon or halberd. -They were now among some of the most impressive -bad lands of the Missouri River, and the extraordinary -effects of erosion by air and water made the explorers -wonder.</p> - -<p>Captains Lewis and Clark were much puzzled at -this point to know which of the rivers before them was -the main Missouri. The Minnetari had told them -that the main Missouri headed close to the Columbia -River, and it was this main stream that they wished to -follow up, in order that they might strike Columbia -waters, and thus continue their way toward the west. -The choice of the wrong branch might take them a very -long distance out of their way, and they would be -forced to return to this point, losing a season for travelling, -and also, perhaps, so disheartening the men as to -take away much or all of their enthusiasm. Accordingly,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171">171</a></span> -two land parties set out, one under Captain Lewis -and one under Captain Clark. Captain Lewis followed -up the Missouri River, and became convinced -that it was not the main stream, and that it would -not be wise to follow it up. The remainder of his -party, however, believed it to be the true Missouri. -Captain Clark, who had followed up the other stream, -had seen nothing to give him much notion as to whether -it was or was not the principal river. After long consideration, -and getting from the interpreters and Frenchmen -all that they knew on the subject, they determined -to make a cache at this point, and that a party should -ascend the southern branch by land until they should -reach either the falls of the Missouri or the mountains. -This plan was carried out. The heavy baggage, together -with some provisions, salt, powder, and tools, -were cached; one of the boats was hidden; and Captain -Lewis, with four men, started June 11 to follow up the -southern stream.</p> - -<p>On the 13th they came to a beautiful plain, where -the buffalo were in greater numbers than they had ever -been seen, and a little later Captain Lewis came upon -the great falls of the Missouri. This most cheering -discovery gave them the information that they desired, -and the next day an effort was made to find a place -where the canoes might be portaged beyond the falls. -This was not found; and a considerable journey up -and down the river showed to the explorers the great -number of falls existing at this place. Game was very -numerous, and buffalo were killed and the meat prepared,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172">172</a></span> -and a messenger was sent back to the main party -to tell what had been discovered. One day in this -neighborhood Captain Lewis, having carelessly left his -rifle unloaded, was chased for a considerable distance -by a bear, and finally took refuge in the river. The -next day he was threatened by three buffalo bulls, which -came up to within a hundred yards of him on the full -charge, and then stopped; and the next day, in the morning, -he found a rattlesnake coiled up on a tree trunk -close to where he had been sleeping. There seems to -have been excitement enough in the neighborhood of -the Great Falls. It was found necessary here to leave -their boats behind, and the travellers made an effort to -supply their place by a homely cart, the wheels of which -were made from sections of the trunk of a large cottonwood -tree.</p> - -<p>For a good while now the party had been travelling, -most of the time on foot, over rough country, covered -with prickly pears, and the ground rough with hard -points of earth, where the buffalo had trodden during -the recent rains. Their foot-gear was worn out, and -the feet of many of the men were sore. All were becoming -weak from exertion and the fatigues they were -constantly undergoing. However, the enormous abundance -of game kept them from suffering from hunger. -Two or three weeks were spent in the neighborhood of -the Great Falls, preparing for their onward journey. -Provisions were secured by killing buffalo and drying -their meat. They tried to prepare a skin boat for going -up the river, and for various explorations and measurements<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173">173</a></span> -in the neighborhood, but the attempt was unsuccessful. -The iron frame had been brought from -the East, but wood for flooring and gunwales was -hardly to be had. They were obliged to give up the -boat, strip the covering from it, and cache the pieces.</p> - -<p>While they were in this neighborhood, they were much -annoyed by the white bears, which constantly visited -their camp during the night. Their dog kept them -advised of the approach of the animals, but it was -annoying to be obliged to sleep with their arms by their -sides and to expect to be awakened at any moment. -The daring of the bears was great; once some of the -hunters, seeing a place where they thought it likely that -a bear might be found, climbed into a tree, shouted, and -a bear instantly rushed toward them. It came to the -tree and stopped and looked at them, when one of the -men shot it. It proved to be the largest bear yet seen.</p> - -<p>Captain Clark, journeying with Chaboneau, the interpreter, -his wife and child, and the negro servant York, -took shelter one day under a steep rock in a deep ravine, -to be out of the rain and wind. A heavy shower came -up, and before they knew it a tremendous torrent came -rolling down the ravine, so that they narrowly escaped -losing their lives. Captain Clark pulled the Indian -woman up out of the water, which, before he could -climb the bank, was up to his waist. The guns and -some instruments were lost in the flood.</p> - -<p>The question of transportation was finally solved by -their making two small canoes from cottonwood trees, -and they pushed on up the Missouri. A small party<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174">174</a></span> -went ahead on foot, examining the country. Game -was fairly numerous, and near the Dearborn River they -saw a “large herd of the big horned animals.” Indian -camps were occasionally seen, and it was noted that in -some places pine trees had been stripped of their bark, -which, the Indian woman told them, was done by the -Snakes in the spring, in order to obtain the soft parts of -the wood and the bark for food.</p> - -<p>The river here was deep, and with only a moderate -current, and they were obliged to employ the tow-rope, -cordelling their vessel along the shore. Geese and -cranes were breeding along the river; the young geese -perfectly feathered and as large as the old ones, while -the cranes were as large as turkeys. The land party -followed for much of the distance an Indian trail, which -led in the general direction they wished to go.</p> - -<p>They had now reached the Three Forks of the Missouri, -which were duly named, as we know them to-day, -Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin. They were in the -country of the Snake Indians, whom they were in daily -hope of meeting, feeling sure that through the medium -of Chaboneau’s wife they would be able to establish -satisfactory relations with them. Captain Clark still -kept ahead of the party, on foot, to learn the courses -and practicability of the different streams for the canoes, -and left notes at different points, with instructions for -the boats. One of these notes, left on a green pole stuck -up in the mud, failed to be received because a beaver -cut down the pole after it had been planted, and the -consequence was that the canoes proceeded for a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175">175</a></span> -considerable distance up the wrong fork, and were -obliged to return. Reaching the Beaverhead, the Snake -woman pointed out the place where she had been captured -five years before. On August 9 Captain Lewis, -with three men, set out, determined to find some Indians -before returning to the party, and the rest of the expedition -kept on up the main fork of the Jefferson as best -they could. On August 11 Captain Lewis had the -pleasure of seeing a man on horseback approaching -him. The man’s appearance was different from that -of any Indian seen before, and Captain Lewis was convinced -that he was a Shoshoni. When the two men -were about a mile apart the Indian stopped, and Captain -Lewis signalled to him with his blanket, making -the sign of friendship, and attempted to approach him. -The Indian was suspicious, and unfortunately the two -men who were following Captain Lewis did not observe -the latter’s sign to wait, and so, though the Indian permitted -the white man to come to within a hundred -yards of him, he finally turned his horse and rode off -into the willows. They followed the track of the -Indian as well as they could until night, and the next -morning continued the search. By this time their food -was nearly gone. They kept on up the stream until it -had grown to be a rivulet so small that Captain Lewis -could stand over it with one foot on either bank.</p> - -<p>Keeping on to the west, they reached the divide between -the Atlantic and Pacific waters, and the next day -came upon a woman and a man, who declined to await -near approach. A little bit later they came on three<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176">176</a></span> -Indians, an old and a young woman and a little girl. -The young woman escaped by running, but the other -two sat down on the ground and seemed to be awaiting -death. Captain Lewis made them presents, and after -a little conversation, by signs, they set out for the camp. -Before they had gone far they met a troop of sixty -warriors rushing down upon them at full speed. Captain -Lewis put down his gun and went forward with a -flag. The leading Indians spoke to the women, who -explained that the party were white men, and showed, -with pride, the presents that they had received. The -warriors received them with great friendliness, and they -smoked together on the best of terms, and subsequently -proceeded to the camp, where they were received with -the utmost hospitality. The Indians had abundant -fresh meat and salmon. Most of them were armed -with bows, but a few had guns, which they had obtained -from the Northwest Company. They had many horses, -and hunted antelope on horseback, surrounding and -driving them from point to point, until the antelope -were worn out and the horses were foaming with sweat. -Many of the antelope broke through and got away.</p> - -<p>Captain Lewis tried to arrange with the chief to -return with him to the Jefferson, meet the party, and -bring them over the mountains, and then trade for some -horses. The chief readily consented, but it subsequently -appeared that he was more or less suspicious, -and he repeated to Captain Lewis the suggestions made -by some of the Indians that the white men were perhaps -allies of their enemies and were trying to draw<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177">177</a></span> -them into an ambuscade. The chief, with six or eight -warriors, started back with Captain Lewis, and it was -evident that the people in the village thought that they -were going into great danger, for the women were crying -and praying for good fortune for those about to go -into danger, while the men who feared to go were sullen -and unhappy. Nevertheless, before the party had gone -far from the camp, they were joined by others, and a -little later all the men, and many of the women, overtook -them, and travelled along cheerfully with them. -Two or three days later Captain Lewis sent out two of -his men to hunt, and this seemed to revive the suspicions -of the Indians; and when, a little later, one of the -Indians who had followed the hunters was seen riding -back as hard as he could, the whole company of Indians -who were with Captain Lewis whirled about and ran -away as fast as possible. It was not until they had -raced along for a mile or two that the Indian who returned -made the others understand that one of the -white men had killed a deer, and instantly the whole -company turned about and ran back, each man eager -to get first to the deer that he might make sure of a -piece.</p> - -<p>Meantime the main party had struggled on up the -river, and on August 17 were met by a messenger -from Captain Lewis, Drewyer, together with two or -three of his Indian friends. The two parties met, and, -through the medium of Chaboneau’s wife, all suspicions -were allayed and the friendliest relations established. -Efforts were now made to learn something about the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178">178</a></span> -country to the westward and the best method of passing -through it. The Indians said the way was difficult, -the river swift, full of rapids, and flowing through deep -canyons, which passed through mountains impassable -for men or horses. The route to the southward of the -river was said to pass through a dry, parched desert -of sand, uninhabited by game, and impossible at that -season for the horses, as the grass was dead and the -water dried up by the heat of summer. The route to -the northward, though bad, appeared to present the -best road.</p> - -<p>Obviously, if it was practicable, the river presented -the easiest passage through the country, and, in the hope -that its difficulties had been exaggerated, Captain Clark -set out to inspect its channel. Passing as far down the -river as he could, the leader convinced himself that it -was useless to attempt its passage. Game was scarce, -and for food the party depended almost entirely on the -salmon which they could purchase from the Indians, -and which in some cases were freely given them. The -Shoshoni Indians led a miserable life, depending chiefly -on salmon and roots. They ventured out on the buffalo -plain to kill and dry the meat, though continually -in fear of the Pahkees, “or the roving Indians of the -Sascatchawan,” who sometimes followed them even -into the mountains. These Pahkees were undoubtedly -the Piegan tribe of Blackfeet, known for many years as -bitter enemies of the Snakes.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179">179</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI<br /> - -<span class="subhead">LEWIS AND CLARK</span> - -<span class="subhead">IV</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap b"><span class="smcap1">By</span> the end of August the explorers, having procured -a number of horses, set to work to make -saddles, cache their extra baggage, and set out -for their journey north and west. The way led them -over rough mountains, often without a trail. They -were fortunate in having an old Indian as guide, but -met much cold weather, and found the country barren -of game. However, after two or three days of very -difficult travel, they came upon a camp of friendly -Indians, who fed them. These people professed to be -an offshoot of the Tushepaw tribe, had plenty of horses, -and were fairly well provided. They told them that -down the great river was a large fall, near which lived -white people, who supplied them with beads and brass -wire. Not long after this they met the first Chopunnish, -or Pierced-nose Indians, whom we know to-day as Nez -Percés. They were friendly, and were treated as other -tribes had been.</p> - -<p>Although the explorers had had one satisfying meal, -yet food was very scarce, and the Indians subsisted as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180">180</a></span> -best they might on the few salmon still remaining in the -streams, which they shared with the white men. The -privations suffered recently were making them weak; -many were sick; and it was so necessary to husband -their strength that Captain Clark determined to make -the remaining journey by water. Canoes were built, -and the thirty-eight horses were branded and turned -over to three Indians to care for until the explorers -returned. Provisions for the trip were difficult to -obtain. On the morning of October 7 they started -down Lewis River without two of the Nez Percé chiefs -who had promised to go with them. Indian encampments -were numerous along the river, but food continued -very scarce, and their only supply consisted of -roots, which they got from the Indians. Later they -bought some dogs from the Nez Percés for food, and -were laughed at by the Indians, who did not eat dogs. -The Nez Percés during summer and autumn occupied -themselves in fishing for salmon and collecting roots -and berries, while in winter they hunted the deer on -snow-shoes, and toward spring crossed the mountains -to the Missouri for the purpose of trading for buffalo -robes. They appeared very different from the kindly -Shoshoni; they were selfish and avaricious, and expected -a reward for every service and a full price for every -article they parted with.</p> - -<p>Although it was now drawing toward mid-October, -the weather continued warm. Progress down the -stream was rapid, though more so in appearance than -in reality, owing to the river’s bends. On the bank of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181">181</a></span> -the stream, at a large Indian camp where they stopped -October 11, a novel form of sweat-house was observed. -Earth was banked up on three sides against a cut-bank -at the river’s edge, and the Indians, descending through -the roof, which was covered with brush and earth, -except for a small aperture, took down their hot stones -and vessels of water and bathed here.</p> - -<p>They were now approaching the camp of a different -nation of Indians, who had been warned of the coming -of the party by the two chiefs who had gone before, -and they began to receive visits from men who had -come up the stream to satisfy the curiosity excited by -the reports. When they reached the camp they were -hospitably received, and the usual council was held, -accompanied by distribution of presents and medals. -Here they obtained from the Indians some dogs, a few -fish, and a little dried horse-flesh. This was at the junction -of the Lewis River and the Columbia; and the -Indians, who called themselves Sokulks, seemed a mild -and peaceable people, living in a state of comparative -happiness. The men appeared to have but one wife, -old age was respected, and the people were agreeable -to deal with. Their support was largely fish, to which -were added roots and the flesh of the antelope. They -were chiefly canoe people, and possessed but few horses.</p> - -<p>Here Captain Clark, while ascending the Columbia -in a small canoe, first saw, besides the captured fish -drying on scaffolds, “immense numbers of salmon -strewed along the shore, or floating on the surface of -the water.” At the Indian villages that he passed he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182">182</a></span> -was hospitably received, and here first the sage grouse, -called a “prairie cock, a bird of the pheasant kind, of -about the size of a small turkey,” was captured.</p> - -<p>Proceeding down the Columbia a few days’ journey, -an interesting incident took place. “As Captain Clark -arrived at the lower end of the rapid before any, except -one of the small canoes, he sat down on a rock to wait -for them, and, seeing a crane fly across the river, shot it, -and it fell near him. Several Indians had been before -this passing on the opposite side toward the rapids, and -some who were then nearly in front of him, being either -alarmed at his appearance or the report of the gun, fled -to their homes. Captain Clark was afraid that these -people had not yet heard that the white men were coming, -and therefore, in order to allay their uneasiness before -the rest of the party should arrive, he got into the -small canoe with three men, rowed over toward the -houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, which fell into -the water. As he approached no person was to be seen, -except three men in the plains, and they, too, fled as he -came near the shore. He landed in front of five houses -close to each other, but no one appeared, and the doors, -which were of mat, were closed. He went toward one -of them with a pipe in his hand, and, pushing aside the -mat, entered the lodge, where he found thirty-two persons, -chiefly men and women, with a few children, all -in the greatest consternation; some hanging down their -heads, others crying and wringing their hands. He -went up to them and shook hands with each one in the -most friendly manner; but their apprehensions, which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183">183</a></span> -had for a moment subsided, revived on his taking out a -burning-glass, as there was no roof to the house, and -lighting his pipe. He then offered it to several of the -men, and distributed among the women and children -some small trinkets which he had with him, and gradually -restored a degree of tranquility among them. -Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to -visit a house, he entered a second. Here he found the -inmates more terrified than those in the first; but he -succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into -the other houses, where the men had been equally successful. -Retiring from the houses, he seated himself -on a rock, and beckoned to some of the men to come -and smoke with him, but none of them ventured to join -him till the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who -immediately explained our pacific intentions toward -them. Soon after the interpreter’s wife landed, and -her presence dissipated all doubts of our being well disposed, -since in this country no woman ever accompanies -a war party; they therefore all came out, and seemed -perfectly reconciled; nor could we, indeed, blame them -for their terrors, which were perfectly natural. They -told the two chiefs that they knew we were not men, for -they had seen us fall from the clouds. In fact, unperceived -by them, Captain Clark had shot the white crane, -which they had seen fall just before he appeared to -their eyes; the duck which he had killed also fell close -by him, and as there were some clouds flying over at -the moment, they connected the fall of the birds with -his sudden appearance, and believed that he had himself<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184">184</a></span> -actually dropped from the clouds, considering the -noise of the rifle, which they had never heard before, -the sound announcing so extraordinary an event. This -belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, -he brought down fire from the heavens by means of -his burning-glass. We soon convinced them, however, -that we were merely mortals, and after one of our chiefs -had explained our history and objects, we all smoked -together in great harmony.”</p> - -<p>Below this, other Indian villages were passed, and -there was more or less intercourse between the white -men and the Indians. On the 20th an island was -visited, one end of which was devoted to the burial of -the dead. The passage down the river continued to be -more or less interrupted by rapids and falls, about -which they were obliged to make portages. All the -Indians seemed to be friendly, and seemed also to be in -great dread of the Snake Indians, with whom they were -constantly at war.</p> - -<p>Here is described the method of certain tribes of preparing -fish, by drying, and pounding it fine, and then -placing it in a basket lined with skin of the salmon, -and covering the top of the basket with skins. Fish -prepared in this way would keep sound and sweet for -years. It was an article of trade between these people -and those farther down the river, who eagerly purchased -it. The preparation seems to have been the -equivalent of the pemmican, made of flesh, and so extensively -used on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185">185</a></span> -The rapids which they constantly encountered -greatly delayed them, and sometimes the contents of -one or more boats were soaked by being upset or by -shipping water. Food was scarce, and they continued -to purchase dogs for provisions. October 24 a change -was noticed in the actions of the Indians, who seemed -more suspicious than usual and approached the travellers -with more caution. This alarmed the two Indian -chiefs who had come with them down the river, and -they wished to leave the party and return to their own -country. However, they were persuaded to remain -two nights longer, since they had proved most useful -in quieting the fears of the different tribes met -with and inspiring them with confidence in the white -people.</p> - -<p>A little later they met Indians, some of whom wore -white men’s clothing, said to have been obtained from -people farther down the stream, and who had also a -musket, a cutlass, and several brass kettles. A chief -who had some white men’s clothing exhibited to the -travellers, as trophies, fourteen dried forefingers, which -he told them had belonged to enemies whom he had -killed in fighting, to the south-east. At a burial-place -were deposited brass kettles and frying-pans with holes -in the bottoms. The making holes in these vessels, -which were to contain liquid, was, of course, for the -purpose of “killing” the vessel, that it might be useful -to the spirit who was to use it in another life. Not -very far below this they first met the wappato, a word -now firmly established in the vernacular of the Northwest;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186">186</a></span> -it is the root of the plant <i>Sagittaria</i>, well known -as an excellent food for human beings, and eagerly eaten -by wild-fowl. The Indians with whom the explorers -now came in contact were troublesome mortals, very -presuming, and disposed to take anything that was left -about. They possessed still more articles of white -men’s manufacture, some having muskets and pistols. -Below the mouth of the Coweliske River they found an -Indian who spoke a few words of English, and he gave -them the name of the principal person who traded with -them—a Mr. Haley.</p> - -<p>The river was now growing wider; there were great -numbers of water-fowl; and on the afternoon of November -7 the fog suddenly cleared away and they saw -the ocean, the object of all their labors, the reward of -all their anxiety. The weather was almost constantly -rainy, and they were continually wet. There were -numerous villages along the river, and these were to be -avoided, because, like all Indian villages recently passed, -they were terribly infested by fleas. Among the wild -fowl killed in this locality were a goose and two canvasback -ducks. The sea was heavy in this mouth of the -river, and the motion so great that several of the men -became sea-sick. They landed in the bay, but the hills -came down so steeply to the water’s edge that there was -no room for them to make a satisfactory camp nor to -secure the baggage above high water. However, they -raised the baggage on poles and spent a most uncomfortable -night. For some days now they camped on -the beach, wet, cold, and comfortless, with nothing but<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187">187</a></span> -dried fish to satisfy their hunger. Hunters sent out -failed to bring in any game, but they bought a few fresh -fish from the Indians. On the 15th of November, -however, the sun came out, and they were able to dry -their merchandise; and, the wind falling, they loaded -their canoes, and after proceeding a short distance -found a sand beach, where they made a comfortable -camp. This was in full view of the ocean, quite on the -route traversed by the Indians, many of whom visited -them; and there was more or less game in the neighborhood, -for the hunters brought in two deer, some geese -and ducks, and a crane.</p> - -<p>It was now almost winter, and the travellers began -to look out for a place where they might build their -winter camp. The Indians reported deer and elk reasonably -abundant on the opposite side of the bay; but, -on the other hand, the explorers wished to be near the -ocean, that they might provide themselves with salt, -and also for the chance of meeting some of the trading -vessels, which were expected in the course of the next -two or three months. The rain continued and the -hunters were unsuccessful. A diet of dried fish was -making the men ill, and the prospects were not bright. -However, on the 2d of December, one of the hunters -killed an elk, the first taken on the west side of the -Rocky Mountains; and we may imagine how much its -flesh was enjoyed after the long diet of roots and fish. -And now for some time deer and elk were killed in great -abundance; but the continued wet weather caused -much of the flesh to spoil. The Indians seemed to be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188">188</a></span> -taking a good many salmon—presumably in the salt -water of the bay—and they had many berries.</p> - -<p>Christmas and New Year’s passed, and in the first -days of January there came the news that a whale had -been cast up on the beach. All the Indians hurried to -it; and following them went Captain Clark and some -of the men, and with them Chaboneau and his wife, -the latter extremely anxious to venture to the edge of -the salt water and to see the enormous “fish” which -had come ashore. The skeleton of the whale measured -one hundred and five feet in length.</p> - -<p>“While smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark -was startled about ten o’clock by a loud, shrill cry from -the opposite village, on hearing which all the natives -immediately started up to cross the creek, and the guide -informed him that some one had been killed. On examination, -one of our men was discovered to be absent, -and a guard was despatched, who met him crossing the -creek in great haste. An Indian belonging to another -band, and who happened to be with the Killamucks -that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and -walked arm in arm with him to a tent, where our man -found a Chinnook squaw who was an old acquaintance. -From the conversation and manner of the stranger, this -woman discovered that his object was to murder the -white man for the sake of the few articles on his person; -and when he rose and pressed our man to go to another -tent, where they would find something better to eat, -she held McNeal by the blanket. Not knowing her -object, he freed himself from her, and was going on with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189">189</a></span> -his pretended friend, when she ran out and gave a -shriek which brought the men of the village over, and -the stranger ran off before McNeal knew what had -occasioned the alarm.”</p> - -<p>With a small load of blubber and oil, the party returned -to the fort, where they found that game was still -being killed, and endeavored to jerk some of it. Much -is said in the journal about the various Indian tribes of -the neighborhood, their method of hunting and fishing, -their habitations, and their dress and implements. -The canoes, and the skill in managing them, excited the -unfeigned admiration of the white men; and the fact -that such canoes could be constructed by people without -axes, and armed only with a chisel, made of an old -file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width, seemed -to them very extraordinary. It was noted that some -of the Indians, especially the women, appeared to tattoo -the legs and arms; and on the arm of one woman was -read the name J. Bowman; perhaps some trader who -had visited the locality. Among these people women -were very well treated, and old age was highly respected.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190">190</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">LEWIS AND CLARK</span> - -<span class="subhead">V</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">The</span> winter was spent chiefly in procuring food -and in observing the natives and the geography -of the neighboring country, and the expedition -had not expected to leave their permanent camp, Fort -Clatsop, before the first of April. By the first of March, -however, the elk, on which they chiefly depended for -food, had moved away to ascend the mountains, and -their trade goods being almost exhausted, they were -too poor to purchase food from the Indians. It was -evident that they must start back up the river, in the -hope of there finding food, and must reach the point -where they had left their horses before the Indians there -should have moved off across the mountains or dispersed -over the country.</p> - -<p>During the winter they had worked hard at dressing -skins, so that they were now well clad, and had besides -three or four hundred pairs of moccasins. They still -had also one hundred and forty pounds of powder and -about twice that weight of lead, quite enough to carry -them back.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191">191</a></span> -On the 23d of March, therefore, after giving certificates -to some of the Indian chiefs, and leaving tacked -up on one of their cabins a notice of their successful -crossing of the continent and their start back, they set -out in two canoes up the Columbia. As they passed -along they at first found little difficulty in securing provisions -from the acquaintances they had made while -descending the river; and besides this, the hunters killed -some game. Before long, however, they began to meet -Indians coming down the river who informed them that -they had been driven from the Great Rapids by lack of -provisions, their winter store of dried fish having become -exhausted, and the salmon not being expected -for a month or more. This was dismal news to people -who were ascending the river in the hope of obtaining -provisions, but there was nothing for them to do except -to keep on, living on the country as well as they could, -trying to reach the place where they had left their horses -before the Indians should have departed. Their hunters -succeeded in killing some deer and elk on the -south side of the river, though there seemed no game -on the north. Besides that, the deer killed were so -extremely thin in flesh that it hardly seemed worth -while to bring them into camp.</p> - -<p>Many of the Indians still stood in great fear of the -“medicine” of the white men; and Captain Clark, returning -from a short exploring trip, saw an example of -this. “On entering one of the apartments of the house, -Captain Clark offered several articles to the Indians in -exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared sullen and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192">192</a></span> -ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore -sat down by the fire opposite to the men, and, drawing -a portfire match from his pocket, threw a small piece -of it into the flames; at the same time he took out his -pocket compass, and by means of a magnet which happened -to be in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round -very briskly. The match immediately took fire, and -burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this -strange exhibition, brought a quantity of wappatoo and -laid it at his feet, begging him to put out the bad fire; -while an old woman continued to speak with great -vehemence, as if praying and imploring protection. -After receiving the roots, Captain Clark put up the -compass, and, as the match went out of itself, tranquillity -was restored, though the women and children -still sought refuge in their beds and behind the men. -He now paid them for what he had used, and, after -lighting his pipe and smoking with them, continued -down the river.”</p> - -<p>The hunters still were killing some game, but it was -so thin as to be unfit for use; six deer and an elk were -left in the timber, while two deer and a bear were -brought in. The wappatoo was now largely the food -of all the Indians. The bulb, which grows in all the -ponds of the interior, is gathered by the women, who, -standing in deep water, feel about in the mud for the -roots of the plant and detach the bulbs with their toes; -these rise to the surface and are thrown into the canoe. -The roots are like a small potato and are light and very -nutritious.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193">193</a></span> -A few days later they obtained from the Indians the -skin of a “sheep” (mountain goat), which is described -so that there is no doubt about the identification. The -hunters also killed three black-tailed deer. Near -Sepulcher Rock, a burial-place for the surrounding -tribes, Captain Clark crossed the river in the endeavor -to purchase a few horses, by which they might transport -their baggage and some provisions across the -mountains, but in this he was unsuccessful. However, -some Indians were met, who promised a little later to -meet them and furnish some horses. At the foot of the -Great Narrows four were purchased to assist in carrying -the baggage and the outfit over the portage.</p> - -<p>The Indians at the upper end were rejoicing over the -catching of the first salmon; and they were so good-natured -that they sold the white men four more horses -for two kettles, which reduced the stock of kettles to one. -There was a good deal of trouble here from thefts by -the Indians, and from their practice of trading articles -and then returning and giving back the price that they -had received and demanding articles that had been -traded. So annoying did this become, that Captain -Clark declared to the Indians in council assembled that -the next man caught thieving would be shot; and a -little bit later he was obliged to threaten to burn the village. -At last, however, they got away, with ten horses, -and proceeding up the river secured a few others. By -this time they had exhausted pretty much all their trade -goods, and the capacity to buy was about at an end. -The Indian tribes that they were passing now did not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194">194</a></span> -seem to be particularly friendly and held themselves -aloof; but a chief of the Walla Wallas, whom they -met a little later, treated them most hospitably, and in -striking contrast to the people that they had lately seen. -This chief presented Captain Clark with a fine horse, -and received in return a sword, one hundred balls, -some powder, and some other small presents. The -chief helped them cross the river in his canoes, and -they camped on the Columbia, at the mouth of the -Walla Walla River. They now possessed twenty-three -horses, and on the whole were in pretty good shape, -except that they had but little food and had nothing -left which they could trade for food. About the first -of May they met a party of Indians, consisting of one -of the chiefs of the Nez Percés who had gone down -Lewis River with them the previous year and had been -of great service to them, and had now come to meet -them. They were now out of provisions, but at an -Indian camp not far off managed to obtain two lean -dogs and some roots. As they went on they learned -that most of the Nez Percés were scattered out gathering -spring roots, but the Indian in whose charge their -horses had been left was not far away.</p> - -<p>At this point the explorers were applied to by two -or three persons who were ill, and their simple treatment -benefiting the Indians, their fame greatly increased. -The white men were careful to give the Indians only -harmless medicine, trying to assist nature rather than -to do anything that was radical. The Indians who had -been benefited gave material evidence of their gratitude.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195">195</a></span> -Since they had been on the Columbia River the Indians -had made great fun of the white men because they -ate dogs, and it was just after their experience in doctoring, -but at another village, that “an Indian standing by, -and looking with great derision at our eating dog’s flesh, -threw a poor half-starved puppy almost into Captain -Lewis’s plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. -Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it back -with great force into the fellow’s face, and seizing his -tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if he dared -to repeat such insolence. He immediately withdrew, -apparently much mortified, and we continued our dog -repast very quietly.” Continuing their journey, they -were again applied to for medical advice and assistance, -but declined to practice without remuneration. One -or two small operations were performed, and a woman -who had been treated, declaring the next day that she -felt much better, her husband brought up a horse, -which they at once killed.</p> - -<p>Having crossed the river, on the advice of the Indians -that more game was to be found, they kept on their way, -and the day after the hunters brought in four deer, -which, with the remains of the horse, gave them for the -moment an abundant supply of food. Here they met -Twisted Hair, in whose charge they had left their -horses. He told them that, owing to the care that he -had taken of their horses, he had been obliged to quarrel -with other chiefs, who were jealous of him, and that -finally he had given up the care of the horses, which -were now scattered. They soon recovered twenty-one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196">196</a></span> -of their horses—most of which were in good condition—a -part of their saddles, and some powder and lead -which had been put in the cache with them. The -Indians gave them two fat young horses for food, asking -nothing in return, and the hospitality and generosity -of these Indians made a great impression on the white -men, who were now disposed to treat them with a great -deal more courtesy and consideration than had been -their custom. Captain Lewis at this meeting is quite -enthusiastic about these Chopunnish Indians, whom he -describes as industrious, cleanly, and generous—a report -quite different from that made on the way down the river.</p> - -<p>At the village where they camped May 11, the Indians -lived in a single house, one hundred and fifty feet long, -built of sticks, straw, and dried grass. It contained -about twenty-four fires, about double that number of -families, and might muster, perhaps, one hundred -fighting men. The difficulty of talking to these Indians -was great, for Captains Lewis and Clark were obliged -to speak in English to one of the men, who translated -this in French to Chaboneau, who interpreted to his -wife in Minnetari; she told it in Shoshoni to a young -Shoshoni prisoner, who finally explained it to the Nez -Percés in their own tongue. After the council was over, -the wonders of the compass, the spy-glass, the magnet, -the watch, and the air-gun were all shown to the Indians. -Here they were obliged also to do a good deal of doctoring, -and finally another council was held, at which it -was agreed by the Indians to follow the advice of Captains -Lewis and Clark. Presents were made by the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197">197</a></span> -Indians to the whites, and to each chief was given a flag, -a pound of powder, and fifty balls, and the same to the -young men who had presented horses to them. They -also paid the man who had charge of their horses, in -part, agreeing with him to give the balance so soon as -the remainder of the horses were brought in.</p> - -<p>On the 14th of May they crossed the river and made a -camp, where they purposed to wait until the snow had -melted in the mountains. The hunters killed two bears -and some small game, much of which they gave to the -Indians, to whom it was a great treat, since they seldom -had a taste of flesh. Many patients continued to be -brought to them, whom they doctored, and with some -success.</p> - -<p>Early in June they began to make preparations to -cross the mountains, though the Indians told them it -would be impossible to do this before about the first -of July. They were now well provided with animals, -each man having a good riding horse, with a second -horse for a pack, and some loose horses to be used in -case of accident or for food. The salmon had not yet -come up the river. They started on the 15th of June -in a rain, and on the way found three deer, which their -hunters had killed. They soon began to climb the -mountains, and before long found themselves travelling -over hard snow, which bore up their horses well; but it -was evident that the journey would be too long to make, -since for several days’ travel there would be no food for -the animals. So they were obliged to turn back and -wait for the warmer weather.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198">198</a></span> -Two men who had been sent back to the Indian village -to hurry up the Indians who had promised to cross -the mountains with them, and make peace with the -Indians on the upper Missouri, returned with three -Indians who agreed to go with them to the falls of -the Missouri. A little later they started again, usually -keeping on the divide, in order to head all streams and -not cross any running water. The country was completely -covered with snow. On the 26th of June they -camped high up on the mountains, where there was -good food for the horses. The travelling was pleasant, -the snow hard. Their provisions had now about given -out, however, except that they still had some roots; but -now and then a deer was killed, which kept them from -absolute starvation.</p> - -<p>By July 1 they had reached a country where game was -quite abundant, deer, elk, and big-horn being plenty in -the neighborhood. It was determined to divide the -party and to cover more country on the return than -they had when coming out. Captain Lewis, with nine -men, was to go to the falls of the Missouri, leave three -men there to prepare carts for transporting baggage and -canoes across the portage, and with the remaining six -to ascend Maria’s River and explore the country there. -The remainder of the party were to go to the head of -the Jefferson River, where nine men under Sergeant -Ordway should descend it with the canoes. Captain -Clark’s party was to go to the Yellowstone, there build -canoes, and go down that river with seven men; while -Sergeant Pryor, with two others, should take the horses<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199">199</a></span> -overland to the Mandans, and thence go north to the -British posts on the Assiniboine and induce Mr. -Henry to persuade some of the Sioux chiefs to go with -him to Washington. This plan was carried out.</p> - -<p>Captain Lewis kept on to the Dearborn River. This -was a good game country and they made rapid progress, -and before long found themselves at their old -station, White Bear Island. During the flood of the -river the water had entered their cache and spoiled -much of their property. They had much trouble here -with lost horses, and one of their men, riding suddenly -upon a bear, his horse wheeled and threw him, and the -bear drove him up a tree where he was kept all day.</p> - -<p>Captain Lewis now started to explore the Maria’s -River, and, following it up, almost reached the foot -of the Rocky Mountains. Here they met a band of -Indians, who stated that they were Gros Ventres of the -Prairie, or, as Lewis and Clark put it, Minnetari of Fort -de Prairie, and who, after some hesitation, appeared to -be friendly enough, and smoked with Captain Lewis. -They expressed themselves as willing to be at peace with -the Indians across the mountains, but said that those -Indians had lately killed a number of their relations. -Captain Lewis kept a very close watch, fearing that the -Indians would steal his horses. This did not happen, -but on the following day, July 27, the Indians seized -the rifles of four of the party. As soon as Fields and -his brother saw the Indian running off with their two -rifles they pursued him, and, overtaking him, stabbed -him through the heart with a knife. The other guns<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200">200</a></span> -were recovered without killing any of the Indians; but as -they were trying to drive off the horses, Captain Lewis -ordered the men to follow up the main party, who were -driving the horses, and shoot them. He himself ran -after two other Indians, who were driving away another -bunch of horses, and so nearly overtook them -that they left twelve of their own animals but continued -to drive off one belonging to the white men. Captain -Lewis had now run as far as he could, and calling to the -Indians several times that unless they gave up the horse -he would shoot, he finally did so, and killed an Indian. -The other men now began to come up, having recovered -a considerable number of the horses; they had lost one -of their own horses and captured four belonging to the -Indians. They now retreated down the river with the -horses that they had, but took nothing from the Indians’ -camp.</p> - -<p>These Indians were probably not Gros Ventres, as -stated in the Lewis and Clark journal. Precisely the -same story was told me in the year 1888 by the oldest -Indian in the Blackfoot camp, as having been witnessed -by him in his boyhood on Birch Creek, a branch of the -Maria’s. Wolf Calf, the narrator, was considered much -the oldest Indian in the Piegan camp, and was supposed -to be more than ninety-five years old. The -Indian killed by Fields was named Side Hill Calf. -He said that he was a boy with the Indian war party.</p> - -<p>Captain Lewis, believing that they would be promptly -pursued by a much larger party of Indians and attacked, -at once began a retreat. The Indian horses which had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201">201</a></span> -been captured proved good ones, the plains were level, -and they rode hard for more than eighty miles, only stopping -twice to kill a buffalo and to rest their horses. -They stopped at two o’clock in the morning, and at daylight -started on again, and at last when they reached the -Missouri they heard the report of a gun, and then a -number of reports and before long had the satisfaction -of seeing their friends going down the river. They -landed, and Captain Lewis’s party, after turning loose -the horses, embarked, with the baggage, and kept on -down the stream. Before long they met Sergeants Gass -and Willard, who were bringing down horses from the -falls, and now the whole party had come together, except -Captain Clark’s outfit, which had gone down the -Yellowstone.</p> - -<p>The journey down the Missouri was quickly made, -and at the mouth of the Yellowstone a note was found -from Captain Clark, who had gone on before them. -Not far below this Captain Lewis, while hunting elk on -a willow grove sand-bar, was shot in the thigh by his -companion, Cruzatte, who apparently mistook him for -an elk, he being clad in buckskin. At first Captain -Lewis thought that they had been attacked by Indians, -but no signs of Indians being found, the conclusion that -Cruzatte had shot him, apparently by mistake, seemed -inevitable. On August 12 they met Captain Clark’s -party, whose adventures had been much less startling -than theirs. His party had started up Wisdom River, -on the west side of the mountains, and, crossing over to -the head of the Jefferson, had passed through a beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202">202</a></span> -country—the Beaverhead—very lovely in its surroundings, -with fertile soil, and abounding in game.</p> - -<p>Most of the party had gone down the river in canoes, -but a few men had been left on the land to drive down -the horses. A part of these, under Sergeant Ordway, -kept on down the river, while at the mouth of the Madison, -Captain Clark, with ten men and the wife and child -of Chaboneau, taking the fifty horses, crossed over to -go to the Yellowstone and descend it. When they -reached the Yellowstone, they followed it down for some -little time, through a country abounding in buffalo, -deer, and elk. Very likely they would have gone on farther -but for an accident to one of the men, who was so -badly hurt that he could not sit on his horse. Small -timber being found, canoes were constructed, which -were lashed together and loaded preparatory to setting -out. While all this was being done, twenty-four of their -horses disappeared, and a little search showed a piece of -rope and a moccasin, which made it clear that the horses -had been run off by the Indians. Sergeant Pryor, with -two men, was ordered to take the remaining horses -down the river to the mouth of the Bighorn, where they -could cross and from there he was to take them to -the Mandans. The canoes which went on down the -river passed various streams, and at one point came -upon what appeared to have been a medicine lodge of -the Blackfeet. At a stream to which they gave the -name of Horse Creek, they found Pryor with his animals. -He had had much trouble in driving the horses, -since, as many of them had been used by the Indians<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203">203</a></span> -in hunting buffalo, whenever they saw a bunch of -buffalo they would set off in pursuit of them. To prevent -this, Sergeant Pryor was obliged to send one man -ahead of the horse herd to drive away the buffalo.</p> - -<p>From the top of Pompey’s Pillar Captain Clark had a -wide and beautiful prospect over the country, dotted -everywhere by herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves. Bighorn -were abundant here and farther down the stream, -and the noise of the buffalo—for this was now the rutting -season—was continuous. The large herds of elk were -so gentle that they might be approached within twenty -paces without being alarmed. The abundance of buffalo -was so great that the travellers were in great fear, -either that they would come into their camp at night and -destroy their boats by trampling on them, or that the -herds, which were constantly crossing the river, would -upset the boats. Bears, also, were very abundant, and -quite as fierce as they had been on the Missouri. Captain -Clark killed one, the largest female that they had -seen, and so old that the canine teeth had been worn -quite smooth. Mosquitoes here were terribly abundant; -several times, it is said, they alighted on the rifle barrels -in such numbers that it was impossible to take sight.</p> - -<p>On August 8 they were joined by Sergeant Pryor and -his men, who had no horses; every one of them had been -taken off the second day after they left the party by -Indians. They followed them for a short distance, but -without overtaking them; and finally coming back to -the river, built two row-boats, in which they came down -the stream with the utmost safety and comfort. On the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204">204</a></span> -11th of August they met two trappers who had left -Illinois in the summer of 1804, and had spent the following -winter with the Tetons, where they had robbed and -swindled a French trader out of all his goods. They -told Captain Clark that the Mandans and Minnetaris -were at war with the Arikaras, and had killed two of -them, and also that the Assiniboines were at war with -the Mandans, news which could not have been very -pleasing to the explorers, whose efforts on their way up -the river had been so strong for peace.</p> - -<p>The party having come together on August 12, they -kept on down the river, and two days later reached the -village of the Mandans. Here they had protracted -councils with the Mandans and Minnetaris, and tried -hard to persuade some of them to go on with them to -Washington. Colter applied to the commanding officers -for permission to join the two trappers who had -come down the river to this point, and he was accordingly -discharged, supplied with powder and lead, and a -number of other articles which might be useful to him. -The next day he started back up the river. What -Colter’s subsequent adventures were is well known to -any one who has followed the course of early exploration -in the West. Colter’s Hell, if we recollect right, -was the first name ever applied to the geyser basins -of the Yellowstone Park.</p> - -<p>Though the Mandans and Minnetaris were as friendly -and hospitable as possible, and gave them great stores -of corn, none of the principal men would consent to go -to Washington. They promised, however, to be more<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205">205</a></span> -attentive to the requests of the white men, to keep the -peace with their neighbors, and were greatly pleased -and proud of the gift to the chief of the Minnetaris, Le -Borgne, of the swivel, for which Captain Clark no longer -had any use, as it could not be discharged from the -canoes on which they were travelling. Here, too, they -discharged their interpreter, Chaboneau, who wished -to remain with his wife and child. One of the chiefs, -Big White, consented, with his wife and child, to accompany -the white men. Before the expedition finally left -the village there was a last talk with the Indians, who -sent word to the Arikaras by Captain Clark, inviting -them to come up and meet them, and saying that they -really desired peace with the Arikaras, but that they -could place no dependence on anything that the Sioux -might say.</p> - -<p>Keeping on down the river, they found game plenty -and the mosquitoes troublesome. At the Arikara village -they were well received, and found there a camp of -Cheyennes, also friendly. The Rees expressed willingness -to follow the advice that Captain Clark had given -them, but made many excuses for the failure to follow -their counsels of the year before. The Cheyenne chief -invited the white men to his lodge, and Captain Clark -presented a medal to the chief, to that individual’s -great alarm, for he feared that it was “medicine” and -might in some way harm him. The Cheyennes are -described as friendly and well-disposed, though shy.</p> - -<p>The trip down the river was unmarked by adventure. -Enormous quantities of buffalo were seen, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206">206</a></span> -on the 30th of August they came upon a party of Teton -Sioux, under a chief called Black Bull. Other Sioux -were seen, and on September 3 they came to the trading -post of a Mr. James Airs, who presented each of -the party with as much tobacco as he could use for the -rest of the voyage, and also gave them a barrel of flour. -Below the mouth of the Big Sioux River they passed -Floyd’s grave, which they found had been opened. -Two days later they passed the trading post of one of -the Choteaus and a little later the Platte, and at last, -on September 20, reached the little village of La -Charette. On September 23 they reached St. Louis -and went on shore, where they received “a most hearty -and hospitable welcome from the whole village.”</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207">207</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ZEBULON M. PIKE</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap b"><span class="smcap1">Side</span> by side in fact—though by no means in popular -estimation—with the heroic explorers, Lewis -and Clark, stands Zebulon M. Pike, the young -soldier, who first reached the sources of the Mississippi, -later those of the Arkansas, and who was one of the -first genuine Americans to see the Spanish City of the -Holy Faith. Born in New Jersey in 1779, Pike entered -the army in his father’s regiment about the year 1794. -In July, 1805, a lieutenant, he was detailed, by order of -General James Wilkinson, to explore the sources of the -Mississippi. From this expedition he returned in 1806, -and shortly afterward set out on an expedition up the -Kansas River to the country of the Osages, and thence -to the Kitkahahk village of the Pawnees, then on the -Republican River. From here he went westward to -the sources of the Arkansas River, in what is now Colorado. -On this expedition he approached Santa Fé, -was captured by the Spaniards, and escorted south -through Mexico and what is now Texas to the Spanish-American -boundary on the borders of the present State -of Louisiana, where he was set free.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208">208</a></span> -It would be perhaps difficult to point out, since Revolutionary -times, a more heroic figure than that of Pike, -or to name a man who did more for his country. -It is chiefly as an explorer that we must now consider -him, and must briefly tell the history of his journeyings -for two years through that country which was -then Louisiana; yet his subsequent and involuntary -wanderings through Mexico and Texas cannot be -separated from his earlier travels. Some time after his -return from the Southwest, he wrote a book, which was -issued four years before the journal of Lewis and Clark. -In reviewing his life of exploration, we shall in large -measure let him tell his own story.</p> - -<p>On the 9th of August, 1805, with one sergeant, two -corporals, and seventeen privates, Pike started from -St. Louis up the Mississippi River in a keel boat seventy -feet long and provisioned for four months. The water -was swift, the way hard, and they had much foul -weather, which held them back, and made their days -and nights uncomfortable. Occasionally they saw -fishing camps of Indians, and passed the farms of some -Frenchmen, lately transferred without their knowledge -or consent from allegiance to old France to citizenship -in the new United States.</p> - -<div id="ip_208" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 27.0625em;"> - <img src="images/i_208.jpg" width="433" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">LIEUTENANT ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, MONUMENT AT -COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO.</div></div> - -<p>One of Pike’s especial duties was to conciliate the -Indians he met, and, so far as possible, to arrange for -peace between warring aboriginal tribes. On the 20th -he came to a Sac village, where he had a talk with the -Indians, who listened to him respectfully, and appeared -to agree to what he said. Further along he met villages<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209">209</a></span> -of the Reynards, or Foxes, showing that at this time the -Sacs and Foxes were living separately, though allies.</p> - -<p>The way was long, and progress, though often covering -thirty or forty miles a day, was slow, owing to the -windings of the river. Pike was now approaching that -debatable land over which the Sioux and Sauteurs or -Ojibwas were continually fighting backward and forward. -He tells of meeting, September 1, Monsieur -Dubuque, who told him that these tribes were then engaged -in active hostilities, and, among other things, that -a war party “composed of Sacs, Reynards, and Puants -(Winnebagoes), of 200 warriors, had embarked on an -expedition against the Sauteurs, but they had heard -that the chief, having had an unfavorable dream, persuaded -the party to return, and that I would meet them -on my voyage.” This is interesting, as showing that at -this time the Sacs and Foxes, who are of Algonquin -stock, had allied themselves with the Winnebagoes of -Siouan stock against people of the latter race.</p> - -<p>Indians were abundant here, and were always on -the lookout for enemies. The firing of guns by Pike’s -party, who had landed to shoot wild pigeons, was the -signal for some Indians in the neighborhood to rush to -their canoes and hastily embark. Indeed, Pike was -told that all the Indians had a dread of Americans, -whom they believed to be very quarrelsome, very brave, -and very much devoted to going to war; a reputation -which had undoubtedly reached the savages through -the English and French traders.</p> - -<p>A little further along, the Ouisconsing River was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210">210</a></span> -reached, and they met the Fols Avoin Indians, the -Menominees, a tribe still existing at Green Bay, Wisconsin. -Further on he had a meeting with a number -of Sioux and Pike reports the council:</p> - -<p>“On the arrival opposite the lodges, the men were -paraded on the bank with their guns in their hands. -They saluted us with ball with what might be termed -three rounds; which I returned with three rounds from -each boat with my blunderbusses. This salute, although -nothing to soldiers accustomed to fire, would -not be so agreeable to many people; as the Indians had -all been drinking, and as some of them even tried their -dexterity, to see how near the boat they could strike. -They may, indeed, be said to have struck on every side -of us. When landed, I had my pistols in my belt and -sword in hand. I was met on the bank by the chief, -and invited to his lodge. As soon as my guards were -formed and sentinels posted, I accompanied him. -Some of my men who were going up with me I caused -to leave their arms behind as a mark of confidence. -At the chief’s lodge I found a clean mat and pillow for -me to sit on, and the before-mentioned pipe on a pair -of small crutches before me. The chief sat on my right -hand, my interpreter and Mr. Frazer on my left. After -smoking, the chief spoke to the following purport.</p> - -<p>“‘That notwithstanding he had seen me at the Prairie -(du Chien), he was happy to take me by the hand -among his own people, and there show his young men -the respect due to their new father (President Jefferson). -That, when at St. Louis in the spring, his father (General<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211">211</a></span> -Wilkinson) had told him that if he looked down the -river he would see one of his young warriors (Pike) -coming up. He now found it true, and he was happy -to see me, who knew the Great Spirit was the father of -all, both the white and the red people; and if one died -the other could not live long. That he had never been -at war with their new father, and hoped always to preserve -the same understanding that now existed. That -he now presented me with a pipe, to show to the upper -bands as a token of our good understanding, and that -they might see his work and imitate his conduct. That -he had gone to St. Louis on a shameful visit, to carry a -murderer; but that we had given the man his life, and -he thanked us for it. That he had provided something -to eat, but he supposed I could not eat it, and if not, to -give it to my young men.’</p> - -<p>“I replied: ‘That although I had told him at the -Prairie my business up the Mississippi, I would again -relate it to him.’ I then mentioned the different objects -I had in view with regard to the savages who had -fallen under our protection by our late purchase from -the Spaniards; the different posts to be established; the -objects of these posts as related to them, supplying them -with necessaries, having officers and agents of Government -near them to attend to their business; and above -all, to endeavor to make peace between the Sioux and -Sauteurs. ‘That if it was possible on my return I -should bring some of the Sauteurs down with me, and -take with me some of the Sioux chiefs to St. Louis, there -to settle the long and bloody war which had existed between<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212">212</a></span> -the two nations. That I accepted his pipe with -pleasure, as the gift of a great man, the chief of four -bands, and a brother; that it should be used as he desired.’ -I then eat of the dinner he had provided, which -was very grateful. It was wild rye [rice] and venison, -of which I sent four bowls to my men.</p> - -<p>“I afterward went to a dance, the performance of -which was attended with many curious maneuvers. -Men and women danced indiscriminately. They were -all dressed in the gayest manner; each had in the hand -a small skin of some description, and would frequently -run up, point their skin, and give a puff with their -breath, when the person blown at, whether man or -woman, would fall, and appear to be almost lifeless, or -in great agony, but would recover slowly, rise, and join -in the dance. This they called their great medicine, or, -as I understood the word, dance of religion, the Indians -believing that they actually puffed something into each -others’ bodies which occasioned the falling, etc. It is -not every person who is admitted; persons wishing to -join them must first make valuable presents to the -society to the amount of forty or fifty dollars, give a -feast, and then be admitted with great ceremony. Mr. -Frazer informed me that he was once in the lodge with -some young men who did not belong to the club; when -one of the dancers came in they immediately threw their -blankets over him and forced him out of the lodge; he -laughed, but the young Indians called him a fool, and -said ‘he did not know what the dancer might blow into -his body.’</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213">213</a></span> -“I returned to my boat, sent for the chief, and presented -him with two carrots of tobacco, four knives, -half a pound of vermilion, and one quart of salt. Mr. -Frazer asked liberty to present them some rum; we -made up a keg between us of eight gallons—two gallons -of whiskey, the rest water. Mr. Frazer informed the -chief that he dare not give them any without my permission. -The chief thanked me for all my presents, and -said ‘they must come free, as he did not ask for them.’ -I replied that ‘to those who did not ask for anything, -I gave freely; but to those who asked for much, I gave -only a little or none.’</p> - -<p>“We embarked about half-past three o’clock, came -three miles, and camped on the west side. Mr. Frazer -we left behind, but he came up with his two peroques -about dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In the -night a peroque arrived from the lodges at his camp. -During our stay at their camp there were soldiers appointed -to keep the crowd from my boats, who executed -their duty with vigilance and rigor, driving men, women, -and children back whenever they came near my -boats. At my departure, their soldiers said, ‘As I had -shaken hands with their chief, they must shake hands -with my soldiers.’ In which request I willingly indulged -them.”</p> - -<p>Pike was now journeying through the country passed -over forty years before by Carver, and he was evidently -familiar with his journeyings. Of La Crosse prairie he -says:</p> - -<p>“On this prairie Mr. Frazer showed me some holes<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214">214</a></span> -dug by the Sioux when in expectation of an attack, into -which they first put their women and children, and then -crawl themselves. They were generally round and -about ten feet in diameter, but some were half-moons -and quite a breastwork. This I understood was the -chief work, which was the principal redoubt. Their -modes of constructing them are, the moment they apprehend -or discover an enemy on the prairie, they -commence digging with their knives, tomahawks, and a -wooden ladle; and in an incredibly short space of time -they have a hole sufficiently deep to cover themselves -and their families from the balls or arrows of the enemy. -They (enemies) have no idea of taking these subterraneous -redoubts by storm, as they would probably lose -a great number of men in the attack; and although -they might be successful in the event, it would be considered -a very imprudent action.”</p> - -<p>Heretofore but little food had been killed by the expedition, -except pigeons; but they were now getting into -a country where there was more or less game. On -September 14, Pike, who had gone ashore with three -others of his party to hunt, saw abundant sign of elk, -but failed to see any of them, though his men saw -three from the boat; and from this time forth more or -less mention is made of game by short entries, such as, -“Saw three bear swimming over the river.” “Killed -a deer,” “killed three geese and a raccoon,” and other -similar notes.</p> - -<p>On the 23d of September Pike held a council with -the Sioux, who, hearing by a rumor of his arrival in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215">215</a></span> -country, returned from a war party on which they had -set out. He talked with these Sioux, on many matters -of which the principal one was the granting by the -Indians of a site near the Falls of St. Anthony for a -military post, as well as the establishment of peace between -the Ojibwas and Sioux. Three important chiefs -named Little Crow, Risen Moose, and the Son of Pinchow, -replied, promising him about a hundred thousand -acres of land, as well as a safe conduct for himself -and such Ojibwa chiefs as he might bring back with -him. They were doubtful, however, about the prospects -of making a peace with their old-time enemies. -The treaty, or grant, was drawn up and signed, and the -Sioux returned to their homes.</p> - -<p>The following day the flag from Pike’s boat was missing. -This he naturally regarded as a very serious misfortune. -He punished his sentry, and calling up his -friend, Risen Moose, told him of the trouble, and urged -him to try to recover the flag, for he was not by any -means sure that it had not been stolen by an Indian. -However, the next day he was called out of bed by -Little Crow, some of whose people had found the flag -floating in the water below their village, and believing -that this must mean that the white men had been attacked, -Little Crow had come up to see what the matter -was. The appearance of the flag at Little Crow’s village -had put an end to a quarrel which was in progress -between his people and those of a chief called White -Goose. Pike says: “The parties were charging their -guns, and preparing for action, when lo! the flag appeared<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216">216</a></span> -like a messenger of peace sent to prevent their -bloody purposes. They were all astonished to see it. -The staff was broken. Then Petit Corbeau arose and -spoke to this effect: ‘That a thing so sacred had not -been taken from my boat without violence; that it -would be proper for them to hush all private animosities -until they had revenged the cause of their eldest brother; -that he would immediately go up to St. Peter’s to know -what dogs had done that thing, in order to take steps -to get satisfaction of those who had done the mischief.’ -They all listened to this reasoning; he immediately -had the flag put out to dry, and embarked for my camp. -I was much concerned to hear of the blood likely to -have been shed, and gave him five yards of blue stroud, -three yards of calico, one handkerchief, one carrot of -tobacco, and one knife, in order to make peace among -his people. He promised to send my flag by land to -the falls, and to make peace with Outard Blanche.” -The flag was returned two days later by two young -Indians, who had brought it overland.</p> - -<p>It was now October, and clear weather, the thermometer -falling sometimes to zero. Hitherto the principal -food killed had been geese, swans, and prairie chickens; -but on October 6 Pike saw his first elk—two droves of -them. As they kept on up the river, geese, ducks, and -grouse, with occasionally a deer, continued to be secured. -Frequently Pike found hanging to the branches -of the trees sacrifices left there by the Indians. These -were sometimes bits of cloth, or articles of clothing, or -painted skins. As the weather grew colder, and ice<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217">217</a></span> -was often met with, Pike began to think of a place -where he should winter. The boats were becoming very -leaky, and the men, terribly overworked, were losing -strength and becoming inefficient. He therefore determined -to make a permanent camp, afterward called -Pike’s Fort, and to leave a part of his men there in blockhouses -while he proceeded up the river; but before the -separation took place, there was much to be done. -Happily, the country abounded in game, so that for -those who were to be left behind there would be no -danger of starvation. Pike went out one morning and -killed four bears, while his hunters killed three deer.</p> - -<p>Log houses were built, and several small canoes were -made for travel on the river. But after his canoes were -launched and loaded, one of them sank and wet his -ammunition, and in endeavoring to dry the powder in -pots he blew up the powder and the tent in which -he was working. It being necessary to build another -canoe, Pike again went off to hunt to a stream where -much elk and buffalo sign had been seen. The day -following was spent in hunting, but with very little -result; and the account which Pike gives of it shows -how little the explorer and his party knew about the -game that they were pursuing, or the proper methods -of securing it. He says: “I was determined, if we -came on a trail of elk, to follow them a day or two in -order to kill one. This, to a person acquainted with -the nature of those animals and the extent of the prairie -in this country, would appear—what it really was—a -very foolish resolution. We soon struck where a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218">218</a></span> -herd of one hundred and fifty had passed; pursued, -and came in sight about eight o’clock, when they appeared, -at a distance, like an army of Indians moving -along in single file; a large buck, of at least four feet -between the horns, leading the van, and one of equal -magnitude, bringing up the rear. We followed until -near night without once being able to get within point -blank shot. I once made Miller fire at them with his -musket at about four hundred yards’ distance; it had -no other effect than to make them leave us about five -miles behind on the prairie. Passed several deer in -the course of the day, which I think we could have -killed, but did not fire for fear of alarming the elk. -Finding that it was no easy matter to kill one, I shot -a doe through the body, as I perceived by her blood -where she lay down in the snow; yet, not knowing how -to track, we lost her. Shortly after saw three elk by -themselves, near a copse of woods. Approached near -them and broke the shoulder of one, but he ran off -with the other two just as I was about to follow. Saw -a buck deer lying on the grass; shot him between the -eyes, when he fell over. I walked up to him, put my -foot on his horns, and examined the shot; immediately -after which he snorted, bounced up, and fell five steps -from me. This I considered his last effort; but soon -after, to our utter astonishment, he jumped up and ran -off. He stopped frequently; we pursued him, expecting -him to fall every minute; by which we were led from -the pursuit of the wounded elk. After being wearied -out in this unsuccessful chase, we returned in pursuit<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219">219</a></span> -of the wounded elk, and when we came up to the party, -found him missing from the flock. Shot another in the -body, but my ball being small, he likewise escaped. -Wounded another deer; when, hungry, cold, and fatigued, -after having wounded three deer and two elk, -we were obliged to encamp in a point of hemlock woods -on the head of Clear River. The large herd of elk lay -about one mile from us in the prairie. Our want of -success I ascribe to the smallness of our balls, and to -our inexperience in following the track after wounding -the game, for it is very seldom a deer drops on the spot -you shoot it.</p> - -<p>“Sunday, November 3.—Rose pretty early and went -in pursuit of the elk. Wounded one buck deer on the -way. We made an attempt to drive them into the -woods, but their leader broke past us, and it appeared -as if the drove would have followed him, though they -had been obliged to run over us. We fired at them -passing, but without effect. Pursued them through the -swamp until about ten o’clock, when I determined to -attempt to make the river, and for that purpose took a -due south course. Passed many droves of elk and -buffalo, but being in the middle of an immense prairie, -knew it was folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded -several deer but got none. In fact, I knew I could -shoot as many deer as anybody, but neither myself nor -company could find one in ten, whereas one experienced -hunter would get all. Near night struck a lake about -five miles long and two miles wide. Saw immense -droves of elk on both banks. About sundown saw a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220">220</a></span> -herd crossing the prairie toward us. We sat down. -Two bucks, more curious than the others, came pretty -close. I struck one behind the fore shoulder; he did -not go more than twenty yards before he fell and died. -This was the cause of much exultation, because it fulfilled -my determination; and, as we had been two days -and nights without victuals, it was very acceptable. -Found some scrub oak. In about one mile made a -fire, and with much labor and pains got our meat to -it, the wolves feasting on one half while we were carrying -away the other. We were now provisioned, but -were still in want of water, the snow being all melted. -Finding my drought very excessive in the night, I went -in search of water, and was much surprised, after -having gone about a mile, to strike the Mississippi. -Filled my hat and returned to my companions.</p> - -<p>“November 4.—Repaired my moccasins, using a -piece of elk’s bone as an awl. We both went to the -Mississippi and found we were a great distance from -the camp. I left Miller to guard the meat, and marched -for camp. Having strained my ankles in the swamps, -they were extremely sore, and the strings of my moccasins -cut them and made them swell considerably. Before -I had gone far I discovered a herd of ten elk; approached -within fifty yards and shot one through the -body. He fell on the spot, but rose again and ran off. -I pursued him at least five miles, expecting every minute -to see him drop. I then gave him up. When I arrived -at Clear River, a deer was standing on the other bank. -I killed him on the spot, and while I was taking out the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221">221</a></span> -entrails another came up. I shot him also. This was -my last ball, and then only could I kill! Left part of -my clothes at this place to scare the wolves. Arrived at -my camp at dusk, to the great joy of our men, who had -been to our little garrison to inquire for me, and receiving -no intelligence, had concluded we were killed by -the Indians, having heard them fire on the opposite -bank. The same night we saw fires on the opposite -shore in the prairie; this was likewise seen in the fort, -when all the men moved into the works.”</p> - -<p>It was now the middle of November, and the river -was closing up. Pike was obliged to hunt practically -all the time, and was impatient of the slavish life led -by the hunter, and the necessity of working all the time -to support his party. Under such conditions the pursuit -of game becomes work, and not play.</p> - -<p>After the winter had finally set in, Indians began to be -seen; some of them Sioux—Yanktons, and Sissetons—and -some Menominees.</p> - -<p>A considerable part of the month of December was -spent at various camps along the Mississippi River, below -the mouth of the Crow Wing River, and the time -was devoted to killing game and making preparations -for the northward journey. About the middle of the -month Pike started with sleds, sometimes hauled by -men across the prairies, and sometimes along the ice on -the river, wherever it was heavy enough to bear the load. -The way was hard, and sometimes only short trips could -be made with the sleds. As there was little or no snow, -the men were obliged to double up, hauling a sled for a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222">222</a></span> -short distance, and then leaving it to go back and haul -the next one along. One of the sleds broke through the -ice, and everything it contained was wetted, including -a considerable portion of the powder. Pike found his -various duties laborious, for he was at once “hunter, -spy, guide, commanding officer, etc.”</p> - -<p>In January he met a Mr. Grant, an English trader, -by whom he was hospitably received and well treated. -About the middle of the month, finding that his sleds -were too heavy to be hauled through the snow, he -manufactured toboggans, which would be more easily -hauled, even though they carried smaller loads.</p> - -<p>On the first of February he reached Lake La Sang -Sue, now known as Leech Lake. This Pike believed -to be the main source of the Mississippi. The lake -crossed, he stopped at a trading-post of the Northwest -Fur Company, where his men arrived five days later. -Here he hoisted the American flag in place of the English -flag which he had found still flying; and after a few -days went north to Upper Red Cedar Lake, which we -now know as Cass Lake, Minnesota. This was a -country passed over in 1798 by David Thompson, a -great explorer, whose journeyings, together with those -of Alexander Henry, the younger, were edited by Dr. -Elliott Coues.</p> - -<p>Pike was now in the country of the Chippewas, -whom he knew by their other name, Sauteurs, and on -July 16 held a council with them, notifying them that -the country was no longer in the possession of the British, -advising them to make peace with the Sioux, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223">223</a></span> -asking some of their chiefs to go with him to St. Louis, -where they should see General Wilkinson. His talk -with the Indians was pleasantly received, and they -made no difficulty about giving up their flags and -medals, which were to be replaced by flags and medals -of the Americans. Two well-known young men of the -Sauteurs, living hereabout, expressed their willingness -to accompany the explorer to St. Louis, and a day or -two later Pike struck out in a southerly and south-easterly -direction, to return to his fort on the Mississippi. -He reached that river about March 1, and found -all his people well.</p> - -<p>Pike was now prepared to start south as soon as the -river broke up, and to report success in all directions; -a success due entirely to his own astonishing energy and -industry, for he alone had made the expedition what it -was. Something of what he felt he expressed when he -wrote:</p> - -<p>“Ascended the mountain which borders the prairie. -On the point of it I found a stone on which the Indians -had sharpened their knives, and a war-club half finished. -From this spot you may extend the eye over -vast prairies with scarcely any interruption but clumps -of trees, which at a distance appear like mountains, -from two or three of which the smoke rising in the air -denoted the habitation of the wandering savage, and -too often marked them out as victims to their enemies, -from whose cruelty I have had the pleasure in the -course of the winter and through a wilderness of immense -extent to relieve them, as peace has reigned<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224">224</a></span> -through my mediation from the prairie Des Chiens to -the lower Red River. If a subaltern with but twenty -men at so great a distance from the seat of his Government -could effect so important a change in the minds -of these savages, what might not a great and independent -power effect, if, instead of blowing up the -flames of discord, they exerted their influence in the -sacred cause of peace?”</p> - -<p>He was frequently seeing Indians, and he was treated -with great respect and hospitality by all of them. He -was especially impressed by his neighbors, the Menominees, -in whom he recognized many good qualities.</p> - -<p>On the morning of April 7, 1806, the party started on -the return journey, and made good time down the river, -reaching the Falls of St. Anthony, where Minneapolis -now stands, on the morning of April 10. Below here, -on the following day, at the mouth of St. Peter’s River, -was found a camp of Sioux, including several bands, -and Pike had a talk with them. The council-house was -capable of containing 300 men, and there were forty -chiefs present, and forty pipes set against the poles. -At the council all these Sioux smoked the Chippewa -pipes, excepting three, who were still mourning for their -relations killed during the winter. Within the next -two or three days he met important Sioux chiefs, Little -Crow and Red Wing, who were extremely cordial, and -emphatic in expressing their wish to carry out the instructions -which Pike had given them.</p> - -<p>From here down the river the journey was interrupted -only by occasional talks with Indians, until Prairie Des<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225">225</a></span> -Chiens was reached, where there were many white people, -and Pike received the first news of the outside world -he had had for many months. He saw here a great -game of lacrosse on the prairie between Sioux on one -side and Winnebagoes and Foxes on the other. Councils -were held here with various bands of Sioux, and -with the Winnebagoes. On April 23 they once more -started down the river, but were delayed by a head -wind. Two days later Captain Many, of the United -States Army, was met on his way up the river in search -of some Osage prisoners among the Sacs and Foxes. -At some of the Indian camps passed, all the people were -drunk—sure sign of the proximity of the white men.</p> - -<p>This practically completes Pike’s voyage, for he -reached St. Louis April 30, after an absence of eight -months and twenty-two days.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226">226</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ZEBULON M. PIKE</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">On</span> his return to St. Louis, after nearly nine -months of the hardest possible work in the -North, Pike was allowed but a short rest. Two -months and a half later he set out on his Western journey, -which was to last a year, and during which he was -to meet with vicissitudes which no one could have foreseen. -It is not strange that he should have been -chosen for the work of exploration in the South-west, -which had for its object the investigation of the heads -of the rivers flowing through the newly acquired Louisiana, -making acquaintance with the Indians inhabiting -the region, and putting an end to the constant wars -between the different tribes. The good results achieved -along the Mississippi had proved his especial fitness for -similar work in other portions of the new domain of the -United States, and were reason enough for giving Pike -the command of this expedition. But it is altogether -possible that General Wilkinson, then the commanding -officer stationed at St. Louis, in charge of the whole -Western country, may have had an ulterior object in -sending Pike to investigate the Spanish boundaries of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227">227</a></span> -the South-west. It had been more than suspected that -in some way Wilkinson was mixed up with the Aaron -Burr conspiracy. Whether he was so or not, the Spanish -authorities of Mexico believed that he was, and believed -that the expedition led by Pike, of which they -were informed well in advance, was connected with this -conspiracy, and had for its object the acquiring of information -detrimental to Spanish interests.</p> - -<p>At all events the Spaniards had made every preparation -to meet Pike and to capture his party, while Pike -himself was intent only on carrying out his instructions -to explore the heads of these Western rivers, and was -ignorant of the existence of Burr’s conspiracy.</p> - -<p>On July 15, 1806, Pike sailed from St. Louis up the -Missouri River. With him were a lieutenant, a surgeon—Dr. Robinson—one -sergeant, two corporals, sixteen -privates, and one interpreter—twenty-one soldiers and -two civilians—or twenty-three in all. Several of the -party had been with Pike in the North. There were -fifty-one Indians who had been redeemed from captivity -among the Pottawatomies, and were now to be returned -to the Osage and Pawnee tribes, to which they -belonged. Two days after leaving St. Louis the party -stopped at Mr. Morrison’s, and there met a young man -named George Henry, who wanted to go West, and -after a little time was engaged to accompany the -party. He was a good French scholar and spoke some -Spanish.</p> - -<p>Progress with the boats, which were rowed up the -stream, was of course slow, and Lieutenant Wilkinson<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228">228</a></span> -and Dr. Robinson, with the Indians, marched across the -country, while the boats toilfully pulled up the river. -They killed some game, chiefly deer and turkeys. The -Indians had a season of mourning each day about daylight, -the crying continuing for about an hour. The -interpreter told Pike that this was the custom, not only -with those who had recently lost their relatives, but also -with others who recalled to mind the loss of some friend, -dead long since, and joined the other mourners purely -from sympathy. They appeared extremely affected; -tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; -but in a moment they would dry their cheeks and cease -their cries. Their songs of grief ran: “My dear father -exists no longer; have pity on me, O Great Spirit! You -see I cry forever; dry my tears and give me comfort.” -The warriors’ songs were: “Our enemies have slain my -father [or mother]; he is lost to me and his family; I -pray to you, O Master of Life, to preserve me until I -avenge his death, and then do with me as thou wilt.”</p> - -<p>On the 28th of July the party reached the mouth of -the Osage River, and on the next day turned up the -stream, heading for the Osage villages, where they were -to leave a part of their Indians, and were to impress -on the Osages the power and importance of the United -States Government. Game was quite abundant, and -deer and turkeys were killed daily; two, three, five, and -on one day even nine deer having been taken, for the -large body of men required considerable food.</p> - -<p>There was trouble with the Indians from time to time. -Some became jealous of their wives, and quarrelled with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229">229</a></span> -other men, and on one occasion there was some pilfering. -But, on the whole, Pike managed the Indians extremely -well. On the 14th of August a canoe was met -coming down the river, manned by engagees of Mr. -Chouteau, of St. Louis, by whom Pike sent letters to -General Wilkinson. Relatives of the returned Osage -prisoners came out to receive them. The meeting was -very tender and affectionate, “wives throwing themselves -into the arms of their husbands, parents embracing -their children, and children their parents; brothers -and sisters meeting, one from captivity, the other from -the towns; they at the same time returning thanks to the -good God for having brought them once more together; -in short, the <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">tout ensemble</i> was such as to make polished -society blush when compared with those savages, in -whom the passions of the mind, whether joy, grief, fear, -anger, or revenge, have their full scope.”</p> - -<p>Sans Oreille (one of the Osages) made them a speech: -“Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your -daughters, your sons, redeemed from captivity. Who -did this? Was it the Spaniards? No. The French? -No. Had either of those people been governors of the -country, your relatives might have rotted in captivity, -and you never would have seen them; but Americans -stretched forth their hands and they are returned to you! -What can you do in return for all this goodness? Nothing; -all your lives would not suffice to repay their goodness.” -This man had children in captivity, not one -of whom the party had been able to obtain for him.</p> - -<p>In the Osage village Pike was well received, but a few<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230">230</a></span> -days in the town and its neighborhood showed him -some of the uncertainties of attempting to deal with a -strange people. He had great difficulty in purchasing -horses for his intended trip to the Pawnees, and where -he had secured horses, some of them were stolen from -him. However, after considerable difficulty, he got -started, taking with him a number of Osages, warriors -and chiefs, whom he wished to have make peace with -the Pawnees, and also some of the redeemed Pawnee -captives. From the very start, however, the Osages -were a trouble to him, for they were constantly leaving -him to return to their village, urged to do so by dreams -or by laziness, or perhaps by fear of what their reception -might be among the Pawnees. From the Osage village -Pike travelled nearly south along the Osage River for -several days; and then turning west, crossed Grand -River, a tributary of the Arkansas, and going nearly -due west to the head of this stream, crossed over the -divide to the Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas River. -Along Grand River game was very abundant, and here -we have a glimpse of a quality in Pike which we must -admire. “On the march,” he tells us, “we were continually -passing through large herds of buffalo, elk, and -cabrie [antelope], and I have no doubt that one hunter -could support two hundred men. I prevented the men -shooting at the game, not merely because of the scarcity -of ammunition, but, as I conceived, the laws of morality -forbid it also.”</p> - -<p>On September 22 they began to meet Pawnees; and -two days later others joined them, who possessed mules,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231">231</a></span> -horses, bridles, and blankets, which they had obtained -of the Spaniards. Only a few of these Pawnees wore -breech cloths, most of them being clad only in buffalo -robes. On September 25 Pike had come close to the -Pawnee village, which was situated on the Republican -fork of the Kansas River, quite a long way above the -mouth of the Solomon. Preparations to receive them, -and to smoke with the Osages, were made by the -Pawnees. The visiting Indians sat down on the -prairie and the whites were a short distance in advance -of them. The Pawnees came out from their -village, halted about a mile from the strangers, and -then, dividing into two troops, charged down upon -them, singing their war song, shouting the war cry, -rattling their lances and bows against their shields, and -in all respects simulating the character of genuine warfare. -The two bodies of Pawnees passed around the -strangers and halted, and the chief of the Pawnees advanced -to the centre of the circle and shook hands. -One of the Osages offered the chief a pipe, and he -smoked. The whole party then advanced to the village, -and when near to it again halted. Again the Osages -sat down in a row, facing the village, and now some of -the Pawnees came to them with pipes and invited one -and another to smoke; the Osages did so, and each -received from the man whose pipe he smoked a stick, -which represented a horse. These Pawnees no doubt -belonged to the Republican Pawnees, or Kitkahahk -tribe, the second in importance of the four Pawnee -tribes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232">232</a></span> -Four days later a council was held at which not less -than four hundred warriors were present. Pike’s notes -of this interesting occasion were seized by the Spanish -authorities later, and he never recovered them. He -gives, however, this interesting flag incident: “The -Spaniards had left several of their flags in this village, -one of which was unfurled at the chief’s door the -day of the grand council; and among various demands -and charges I gave them was that the said flag should -be delivered to me, and one of the United States’ flags -received and hoisted in its place. This, probably, was -carrying the pride of nations a little too far, as there -had so lately been a large force of Spanish cavalry at -the village, which had made a great impression on -the minds of the young men, as to their power, consequence, -etc., which my appearance with twenty infantry -was by no means calculated to remove.</p> - -<p>“After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my -discourse, but were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated -the demand for the flag, adding ‘that it was impossible -for the nation to have two fathers; that they must -either be the children of the Spaniards or acknowledge -their American father.’ After a silence of some time an -old man rose, went to the door, took down the Spanish -flag, brought it and laid it at my feet; he then received -the American flag, and elevated it on the staff which had -lately borne the standard of his Catholic Majesty. This -gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of -whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American -protection. Perceiving that every face in the council<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233">233</a></span> -was clouded with sorrow, as if some great national -calamity were about to befall them, I took up the contested -colors, and told them ‘that as they had shown -themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great -American father, I did not wish to embarrass them with -the Spaniards, for it was the wish of the Americans that -their red brethren should remain peaceably around their -own fires, and not embroil themselves in any disputes -between the white people; and that for fear the Spaniards -might return there in force again, I returned them -their flag, but with an injunction that it should never -be hoisted again during our stay.’ At this there was -a general shout of applause, and the charge was particularly -attended to.”</p> - -<p>The raising of the American flag by Pike in the village -of the Pawnee Republicans on September 29, 1806, -marks perhaps the first formal display of that flag by -a soldier in the territory west of the immediate banks -of the Mississippi River. This has properly been regarded -as an occasion of very great importance and one -well worthy of commemoration. The Historical Society -of Kansas, on September 30, 1901, unveiled with appropriate -ceremonies a monument to Pike at Cortland, -Kansas, a point which has been identified as the site -of the ancient Kitkahahk village at which he stopped, -when he held his council with the Indians, and took -down the Spanish flag and raised that of his own country.</p> - -<p>For some days Pike remained with the Pawnees, and -these must have been days of more or less anxiety. The -Indians had no sentiments of attachment for either<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234">234</a></span> -Americans or Spaniards, but they had undoubtedly been -much impressed by the greater power of the Spaniards, -as evidenced by the expedition which had but just left -them, and they were not without fear that wars might -occur between the representatives of the different nations, -from which wars they would gain nothing and -might lose much. The Pawnee chief endeavored to -turn Pike back, saying that he had persuaded the Spaniards -to forego their intention of proceeding farther to -the east, and that he had promised the Spaniards that -he would turn back the Americans. He told Pike that -he must give up his expedition and return, and that if -he were unwilling to do this the Pawnees would oppose -him by force of arms. Pike, of course, declined to turn -back, and intimated that an effort to stop him would -be resisted.</p> - -<p>For some days now he was trading with the Indians -for horses, but they were unwilling to sell them, and -some of those newly purchased disappeared. However, -on the 7th of October he marched from the village, moving -a little west of south. The lost horses had by this -time been returned. On the second day out he was -overtaken by about one-third of the Pawnees, who remained -with them only a short time. A little later -Pike’s party discovered some elk, which they pursued, -and these running back in sight of the Pawnees were -chased by them. “Then, for the first time in my life,” -said Pike, “I saw animals slaughtered by the true -savages with their original weapons, bows and arrows; -they buried the arrow up to the plume in the animal.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235">235</a></span> -They met Pawnees from time to time for a few days, -and on the 15th Pike and Dr. Robinson left the party, -and lost them, not finding them until the 18th. Their -camp was on the Arkansas River, where Pike built -boats, to send Lieutenant Wilkinson and some men -down the river, and so back to the settlements. On -the 28th Lieutenant Wilkinson, in a skin canoe, made -of four buffalo and two elk hides, and one wooden -canoe, proceeded down the river. The party consisted -of Lieutenant Wilkinson, five white men, and -two Osage Indians.</p> - -<p>From here for a long distance Pike’s route lay up -the Arkansas River. Soon they came into a country -abounding in buffalo, antelope, and wild horses. The -antelope were so curious that they came up among the -horses to satisfy their curiosity, and the men could not -resist the temptation of killing two, although they had -plenty of meat. At the report of the gun the game -“appeared astonished, and stood still until we hallowed -at them, to drive them away.” Herds of horses were -seen, which came up very close to the command. An -effort was made to rope some of the wild horses, but as -the animals ridden by the men were slow, and the -ropers were without experience, the attempt was unsuccessful; -and of this Pike says: “I have since laughed -at our folly, for taking wild horses in that manner is -scarcely ever attempted, even with the fleetest horses -and most expert ropers.” The method pursued by the -Spanish in Texas to capture wild horses was not unlike -the old Indian fashion of taking buffalo. “They<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236">236</a></span> -take a few fleet horses and proceed into the country -where the wild horses are numerous. They then build -a large strong inclosure, with a door which enters a -smaller inclosure; from the entrance of the large pen -they project wings out into the prairie a great distance, -and then set up bushes, to induce the horses, when pursued, -to enter into these wings. After these preparations -are made they keep a lookout for a small drove, -for, if they unfortunately should start too large a one, -they either burst open the pen or fill it up with dead -bodies, and the others run over them and escape; in -which case the party are obliged to leave the place, as -the stench arising from the putrid carcasses would be -insupportable; and, in addition to this, the pen would -not receive others. Should they, however, succeed in -driving in a few, say two or three hundred, they select -the handsomest and youngest, noose them, take them -into the small inclosures, and then turn out the remainder; -after which, by starving, preventing them taking -any repose, and continually keeping them in motion, -they make them gentle by degrees, and finally break -them to submit to the saddle and bridle. For this business -I presume there is no nation in the world superior -to the Spaniards of Texas.”</p> - -<div id="ip_236" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_236.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>BUFFALO ON THE SOUTHERN PLAINS.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From Kendall’s <cite>Narrative of the Texas Santa Fé Expedition</cite>.</p></div></div> - -<p>As they proceeded westward they found the prairie -covered with buffalo, most of them cows and calves. -Pike dilates on their numbers, and speaks of the excellence -of the flesh of the buffalo, which he says was -“equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted sumptuously -on the choice morsels.” From time to time they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237">237</a></span> -came upon the trail of the Spaniards, returning to their -mountain homes, and counted the fires about which -these people had encamped. Now their horses were -beginning to grow poor and weak, owing to the scanty -pasturage; and now, too, November 12, Pike passed -beyond the borders of the present Kansas and into -what is now the State of Colorado.</p> - -<p>On November 15, “at 2 o’clock in the afternoon I -thought I could distinguish a mountain to our right, -which appeared like a small blue cloud; viewed it with -the spy-glass, and was still more confirmed in my conjecture, -yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, -who was in front with me; but in half an hour they appeared -in full view before us. When our small party -arrived on the hill they with one accord gave three -cheers to the Mexican mountains. Their appearance -can easily be imagined by those who have crossed the -Alleghanies; but their sides were whiter, as if covered -with snow, or a white stone. Those were a spur of -the grand western chain of mountains which divide the -waters of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic Ocean; -and the spur divides the waters which empty into the -Bay of the Holy Spirit from those of the Mississippi, -as the Alleghanies do those which discharge themselves -into the latter river and the Atlantic. They appear to -present a natural boundary between the province of -Louisiana and New Mexico, and would be a defined -and natural boundary.” On the same day they came -to the Purgatory River, or River of Souls. Here the -Arkansas appeared to carry much more water than -below, and was apparently navigable.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238">238</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ZEBULON M. PIKE</span> - -<span class="subhead">III</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">On</span> November 22, as Pike and Dr. Robinson, -and Vasquez, the interpreter, were riding -ahead of the command, they met a party of -sixty Pawnees returning from an unsuccessful war -party. Half of them were armed with guns, and about -half with bows, arrows and lances. They met the white -men in a very friendly manner, but crowded about them; -and at the same time treated them in so boisterous and -disrespectful, and yet good-natured a way, as to cause -them some uneasiness. Pike prepared to smoke with -them, and offered them some small presents, with which -they were quite dissatisfied; so that for some time the -pipes “lay unmoved, as if they were undetermined -whether to treat us as friends or enemies; but after some -time we were presented with a kettle of water, drank, -smoked and ate together.” The Pawnees treated the -presents given them with more or less contempt, and -some even threw them away.</p> - -<p>“We began to load our horses, when they encircled -us and commenced stealing everything they could.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239">239</a></span> -Finding it was difficult to preserve my pistols, I mounted -my horse, when I found myself frequently surrounded; -during which some were endeavoring to steal the pistols. -The doctor was equally engaged in another -quarter, and all the soldiers in their positions, in taking -things from them. One having stolen my tomahawk, -I informed the chief; but he paid no respect, except to -reply that ‘they were pitiful.’ Finding this, I determined -to protect ourselves, as far as was in my power, -and the affair began to take a serious aspect. I ordered -my men to take their arms and separate themselves -from the savages; at the same time declaring to them -that I would kill the first man who touched our baggage. -On which they commenced filing off immediately; we -marched about the same time, and found they had -made out to steal one sword, tomahawk, broad-ax, five -canteens, and sundry other small articles. After leaving -them, when I reflected on the subject, I felt myself -sincerely mortified, that the smallness of my number -obliged me thus to submit to the insults of lawless banditti, -it being the first time a savage ever took anything -from me with the least appearance of force.”</p> - -<p>It was near the end of November. Provisions were -scarce; but on the 26th, Pike killed a “new species of -deer”—a blacktail, or mule deer. The real troubles of -the expedition were beginning, for the weather was -growing cold, snow fell, and the water was freezing. -The men who had started from St. Louis in July, prepared -for a summer excursion, had worn out their shoes -and clothing, and were half naked, in winter, among<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240">240</a></span> -the high mountains of the Rockies. Some of them -froze their feet. They made such foot gear as they -could from the hide of the buffalo, but many had -used up their blankets, by cutting them to pieces for -socks, and had nothing with which to cover themselves -at night, no matter how cold the weather, or how -deep the snow. Pike worked backward and forward -among the canyons, on streams at the head of the -Arkansas, and passed over the divide between that -river and the head waters of the South Platte, and then -back on to the Arkansas, near what is now called the -Royal Gorge. Here he came on the site of an immense -Indian camp, occupied not long before, which had a -large cross in the middle; and which, though he then -did not know it, was a big camp of Kiowas and Comanches, -with whom had been a white man, James Pursley. -The party was constantly suffering for food, and -often went for days without eating, and were almost -without protection from the weather. Pike never -ceased his efforts to cross the mountains to the supposed -head of the Red River (the Canadian), which he had -been ordered to find. Deep though the snow might be, -and bitter the cold, with his men and himself equally -hungry and equally frozen, passing through a country -almost impracticable for horses, where the animals -themselves had to be dragged along, and often unloaded -and hauled up steep mountain sides, he kept on. On -some occasions the little party of sixteen were divided -into eight different expeditions, struggling not along the -trail, but to get over the mountains, on the one hand,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241">241</a></span> -and on the other, to kill something which might give -food to the party. Their guns now had begun to fail -them; a number burst; others were bent and broken by -the rough usage. Even Pike, who scarcely ever permits -a word of complaint to escape him, says, on January -5, after breaking his gun: “This was my birthday, -and most fervently did I hope never to pass another so -miserably.”</p> - -<p>Matters had reached such a point that it was useless -to attempt to drag the horses any further. Pike determined -to build a small block-house, and leave there -a part of his baggage, the horses, and two men; and -then, with the remainder of their possessions on their -backs, to cross the mountains on foot, find the Red -River, and send back a party to bring on the horses and -baggage by some easy route. They started on January -14, each carrying an average of seventy pounds, and -marched nearly south, following up the stream now -known as Grape Creek. They had not gone far before -the men began to freeze their feet, and were unable to -travel. They had little or no food, but, at last, Dr. -Robinson, after two days’ hunting, during which they -met with constant misfortunes, managed to kill a buffalo, -loads of which were brought back to camp. Leaving -two of the disabled men behind, with as much provision -as possible, promising to send relief to them as -soon as they could, Pike and the others pushed on, making -their slow way through the deep snow. They were -soon again without food; and again the doctor and Pike, -who appear to have been by all odds the men of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242">242</a></span> -party, succeeded in killing a buffalo, and satisfying the -hunger of the company. It was on this day, January 24, -that Pike heard the first complaint. One of his men -declared “that it was more than human nature could -bear, to march three days without sustenance, through -snows three feet deep, and carry a burden only fit for -horses.” This was very bitter to the leader, and he -administered a rebuke, which, though severe, was so -eminently just and sympathetic as to increase the devotion -which his men must have felt for such a leader.</p> - -<p>For a little time they had food, and the weather -became more mild. Now turning to the right, they -crossed through the mountains, and came within sight -of a large river, flowing nearly north and south. This, -although the explorer did not know it, was the Rio -Grande del Norte. Travelling down toward this stream, -they came to a large west branch; and here Pike determined -to build a fort, for a protection for a portion of -his party, while the remainder should be sent back to -bring on the men who had been left behind at different -points. Deer were plenty, and it seemed to be a spot -where life could be supported. Pike laid out a plan -for his block-house, which was on the edge of the river, -and was surrounded by a moat, and a dirt rampart.</p> - -<p>From this point Dr. Robinson set out alone for -Santa Fé. The purpose of his trip was to spy out the -land, and to learn what he could with regard to the -Spanish government, and the opportunities for trade -there. In the year 1804, Mr. Morrison, a merchant of -Kaskaskia, had sent across the plains a creole of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243">243</a></span> -country, one Baptiste La Lande, with goods which he -was to trade at Santa Fé. La Lande had never returned, -and it was believed that he had remained in -Santa Fé, and had appropriated to himself the property -of his employer. When Pike was about to start on his -westward expedition, Mr. Morrison made over to him -his claim on La Lande, in the hope that some of his -property might be recovered, and this claim assigned to -Robinson was the pretext for his trip to Santa Fé. In -other words: Robinson was, as Dr. Coues remarked, a -spy. It is true that Spain and the United States were -not then at war, but there was a more or less hostile -feeling between the two governments; or, if not between -the two governments, at least between the citizens of -the two powers residing on the borders of the respective -territories. More than that, as already stated, the -Aaron Burr conspiracy—with which Pike was wholly -unacquainted—was known to the Spaniards, as was -also Pike’s starting for the west. The Spanish authorities -unquestionably connected the two things, and were -disposed to look with great suspicion on any Americans -who entered their territory.</p> - -<p>Dr. Robinson set out for Santa Fé on the 7th of -February; and until the 16th Pike was occupied in -hunting, building his block-house, reading, and studying. -On the 16th, while hunting, he discovered two -horsemen not far from him. These, when he attempted -to retreat, pursued threateningly; but if he turned about -to go toward them, they retired. As he was doubtful -where he was, and uncertain if the territory was Spanish<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244">244</a></span> -or American, he was unwilling to act on the aggressive; -but finally he lured the horsemen so close to him -that they could hardly get away, and after a little they -explained their presence. It seemed that four days -before Robinson had reached Santa Fé, and that the -Governor had sent out these scouts to learn who the -strangers were. The next day they departed for Santa -Fé, which they said they would reach on the second day.</p> - -<p>Within the next two or three days all the men he -had left behind save two—Dougherty and Sparks—had -come in; and on February 19 Sergeant Meek, with -Miller, was ordered to go back to the point where they -had left the interpreter, Vasquez, with one man and the -horses, to bring them on, and on his way to pick up -Dougherty and Sparks, who, on account of their frozen -feet, had been unable to walk. Pike pays touching -tribute to the heroism of his men, saying: “I must here -remark the effect of habit, discipline, and example, in -two soldiers soliciting a command of more than one -hundred and eighty miles, over two great ridges of -mountains covered with snow, inhabited by bands of -unknown savages in the interest of a nation with which -we were not on the best understanding. To perform -this journey, each had about ten pounds of venison. -Only let me ask, What would our soldiers generally -think on being ordered on such a tour thus equipped? -Yet these men volunteered it with others, and were -chosen, for which they thought themselves highly -honored.”</p> - -<p>On February 26 a detachment of Spaniards, consisting<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245">245</a></span> -of two officers, with fifty dragoons and fifty -mounted militia, reached the post. The sentry halted -them at a distance of fifty yards, and Pike made preparations -for their reception. He insisted that the -Spanish troops should be left at some little distance -from the fort, while he would meet the officers on the -prairie. This was done, and then he invited the officers -to enter the fort, where he offered them his hospitality. -It was then for the first time, Pike tells us, -that he knew that the stream on which he was camped -was not the Red River, meaning the Canadian, but was -the Rio del Norte, which, though known by several -other names, is what we now call the Rio Grande, and -now forms the boundary line between Texas and Mexico. -The officer in command stated that the Governor -of New Mexico had ordered him to offer Pike mules, -horses, money, or whatever he might need to conduct -him to the head of the Red River, and requested Pike to -visit the Governor at Santa Fé. Pike at first declined -to go without his whole command, but after a time was -persuaded to go to Santa Fé, leaving two men in the post -to meet the Sergeant and his party, and to convey to -them his orders to come to Santa Fé.</p> - -<p>Naturally Pike did not wish to resist this invitation, -or to be put in the position of committing hostilities on -the foreign soil which he had invaded, since his orders -did not commit him to any such course. Having made -the error of entering the territory of another power, he -thought it better to explain matters, rather than to commit -an act which might involve his country in war. His<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246">246</a></span> -compliance with the request of the Spanish officer -seemed to be received by them with great satisfaction; -but, he says, “it appeared to be different with my men, -who wished to have ‘a little dust,’ as they expressed -themselves, and were likewise fearful of treachery.” -After making the necessary preparations, and leaving -orders for Sergeant Meek, Pike set out with the Spaniards -to their camp on the Rio del Norte, and thence to -Santa Fé. His passage through the country was an -interesting one, and everywhere he was treated with the -greatest kindness and hospitality by the people. At -the pueblo of San Juan he met the man Baptiste La -Lande, who professed to be an American, and endeavored -to learn from Pike something of his journeying -and his purpose; but Pike, suspecting his designs, -and after a little talk satisfying himself as to what they -were, had the man shut in a room, and threatened him -with death if he did not confess his perfidy. La Lande -was greatly frightened, and declared that he had been -ordered by the Government to find out everything possible -about Pike.</p> - -<p>Not only did the common people treat Pike’s men -with great kindness and hospitality, but the priests and -those of the better class were courteous, cordial, and -very much interested in the explorer.</p> - -<p>Santa Fé was reached March 3. It then had a supposed -population of four thousand five hundred souls, -most of whom, we may imagine, turned out to see the -Americans. Pike’s visit with the Governor was brief. -He denied that Robinson was attached to his party,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_247">247</a></span> -excusing himself to himself on the ground that Robinson -was a volunteer, and could not properly be said to -be one of his command. The Governor’s reception -was haughty and unfriendly. Pike bore himself with -great dignity and wasted no words. At a later interview -that day his papers were examined by the -Governor, and after they had been read his manner -changed, and he became much more cordial. Pike’s -trunk was locked and the key given to him, the trunk -to be put in charge of an officer, who was instructed -to escort him to Chihuahua, where he was to appear -before the Commandant-General. That night he -dined with the Governor, and received from him -money for the expenses of himself and men as far as -Chihuahua.</p> - -<p>The story of the march from Santa Fé to Chihuahua -is interesting. Not far from Albuquerque they met -Dr. Robinson. He was hardly recognized by Pike, for -he was fat, sleek, and well looking, as different as possible -from that Robinson who had left the camp on the -head waters of the Rio del Norte, “pale, emaciated, -with uncombed locks and beard of eight months’ -growth, but with fire, unsubdued enterprise, and -fortitude.”</p> - -<p>The party crossed the Rio Grande at El Paso del -Norte, then a great crossing-place for travellers north -and south, and just over the river from our present -Texas town of El Paso, situated on one of the great -transcontinental railroads.</p> - -<p>Chihuahua was reached April 2, and Pike immediately<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_248">248</a></span> -had an interview with the Governor, who treated -him with reasonable consideration. Almost the whole -month of April was passed here, and during this time -Pike was entertained by the people of the town, among -whom, we may infer, he was regarded partly in the light -of a hero, and partly in the light of a curiosity. On one -occasion he was warned by the Governor that he spoke -too freely with regard to religion, government, and -other matters, to which he made a very free response, -justifying himself for whatever he had done. Pike left -Chihuahua April 28. He had become suspicious that -there was danger that his private notes would be taken -from him, so he took his small note-books and concealed -them in the barrels of the guns of his men. It was now -May, the weather growing very warm and dry; and -sometimes as they marched they suffered from lack of -water. Almost everywhere Pike continued to be received -with great kindness by the people, both in the -towns and by the rich haciendados, whose ranchos were -passed in the country. He frequently met men of English, -Irish, and American birth, most of whom were kind -to him; and, on one occasion, conversed gladly with an -American whom he shortly afterward learned to be a -deserter from the United States Army. This made him -very indignant, and he sent word to the proprietor of -the house where they were stopping that if this deserter -appeared at another meal all the Americans would decline -to eat. His firmness brought an apology from the -host, who took steps that the deserter should not again -appear.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_249">249</a></span> -The month of June was spent in journeying through -Texas, eastward, to the borders of Louisiana. Pike -speaks in the warmest terms of the two Governors, -Cordero and Herrara, whom he met at San Antonio. -They, and all the other Spaniards whom he met in -Texas, were kind to him. On the first of July the -party reached Natchitoches about four <span class="smcap">P. M.</span> “Language -cannot express the gayety of my heart when I -once more beheld the standard of my country waved -aloft. ‘All hail!’ cried I, ‘the ever sacred name of -country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends, -and every other tie which is dear to the soul of man!’”</p> - -<p>It was in August, 1806, while he was on his way westward, -on this second expedition, that Pike was promoted -to be a captain, and his promotion to a majority followed -soon after his return. With successive promotions -in 1809, he became lieutenant-colonel, and with -the coming of the war of 1812, Pike, now a colonel, was -sent to guard the northern frontier. He was appointed -to be brigadier general March 12, 1813. There was -some fighting, but not much; but on April 27, 1813, -while leading an attack on Fort York—now Toronto—he -was killed by the explosion of the magazine, which -the retreating enemy had fired. As an eye-witness -said: The Governor’s house, with some smaller buildings, -formed a square at the centre battery, and -under it the grand magazine, containing a large -quantity of powder, was situated. As there were only -two or three guns at this battery, and it but a short -distance from the garrison, the troops did not remain<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_250">250</a></span> -in it, but retreated to the latter. When the Americans, -commanded by one of their best generals, Pike, reached -this small battery, instead of pressing forward, they -halted, and the general sat down on one of the guns; -a fatal proceeding, for, in a few minutes, his advance -guard, consisting of about three hundred men and -himself, were blown into the air by the explosion of -the grand magazine.</p> - -<p>“... I heard the report, and felt a tremendous motion -in the earth, resembling the shock of an earthquake; -and, looking toward the spot, I saw an immense cloud -ascend into the air. I was not aware at the moment -what it had been occasioned by, but it had an awfully -grand effect; at first it was a great confused mass of -smoke, timber, men, earth, etc., but as it arose, in a most -majestic manner, it assumed the shape of a vast balloon. -When the whole mass had ascended to a considerable -height, and the force by which the timber, etc., were -impelled upwards became spent, the latter fell from the -cloud and spread over the surrounding plain.”</p> - -<p>Struck by a fragment of rock, Pike was mortally -wounded. As he was being taken on board the flagship -“Madison,” he heard the cheering on the shore. -He asked what it meant, and was told that the Stars -and Stripes were being hoisted over the captured fort. -A little later the captured British flag was brought to -him; he motioned to have it put under his head, and -soon after this had been done he died.</p> - -<p>It is a melancholy commentary on the shortness of -human fame that to-day the number of Americans who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_251">251</a></span> -know who Pike was is very small. Few men have -done more than he for their country. Few men in their -time have attracted more attention. Pike’s name has -been given to mountains, counties, cities, villages, and -even to islands, rivers, and bays; and while, as Dr. -Coues suggests, it may well enough be that not all these -are named after Pike the explorer, yet we may be sure -that the enthusiasm of the people for Pike at the time -of his death, and for some time afterward, led to the -giving his name to many natural features of the land, -and to many political divisions within the States. After -all, Pike’s most impressive and most enduring monument -must always remain the superb mountain which -bears his name. If Pike did not discover this, “the -grim sentinel of the Rockies,” which towers fourteen -thousand one hundred and forty-seven feet above the -sea, at least he was one of the first Americans to see it. -He calls it, fitly, the Grand Peak. Nearly fourteen -years later, during Major Long’s expedition to the -Rocky Mountains, it was named James Peak; but this -name, though often mentioned in books, did not long -endure, and the name Pike’s Peak, first used some time -during the decade between 1830 and 1840—for example -in Latrobe’s “Rambler in America”—is now -firmly established, and will ever remain the mountain’s -designation.</p> - -<p>The death of Pike at the early age of thirty-four, so -soon after he had attained the summit of his ambition, -the rank of general and at the moment when the force -under his command had won a notable victory, seems<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_252">252</a></span> -very pathetic; and yet, after all, may not this have been -a happy fate? For we cannot tell what sorrows and -disappointments a longer life might have brought to -him. It seems almost as though he may have had a -premonition of the fate in store for him, since, in his -last letter to his father, written just before he set out -on his expedition, he writes as follows:</p> - -<p>“I embark to-morrow in the fleet at Sackett’s Harbor, -at the head of a column of one thousand five hundred -choice troops, on a secret expedition. If success attends -my steps, honor and glory await my name; if -defeat, still shall it be said we died like brave men, -and conferred honor, even in death, on the American -name.</p> - -<p>“Should I be the happy mortal destined to turn the -scale of war, will you not rejoice, O my father? May -heaven be propitious, and smile on the cause of my -country. But if we are destined to fall, may my fall be -like Wolfe’s—to sleep in the arms of victory.”</p> - -<p>It was so that Pike fell asleep.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_253">253</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap al"><span class="smcap1">Among</span> the north men who overran the country -long known as the Hudson’s Bay Territory, Alexander -Henry, the younger, was a commanding -figure. He was a nephew of that other Alexander -Henry whose adventures have been described earlier -in this book. To Alexander Henry, the younger, we -owe the most curious and complete record ever printed -of the daily life of the fur trader in the north.</p> - -<p>Alexander Henry, the younger, was a diarist; he kept -a journal in which he set down, in the most matter-of-fact -way, everything that happened to him, and, as has -been said by Dr. Coues, “it mirrors life in a way Mr. -Samuel Pepys might envy could he compare his inimitable -diary with this curious companion piece of -<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">causerie</i>, and perceive that he who goes over the sea -may change his sky, but not his mind.”</p> - -<p>The wonderful journal of Henry’s slept for nearly a -century. Where the original may be we do not know, -but a copy was made by George Coventry about the -year 1824, and this copy about seventy years later came<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_254">254</a></span> -under the notice of Dr. Elliott Coues, whose studies -of the old West, have furnished so great a mass of -material from which the student of history may glean -information.</p> - -<p>The diary covers a period of about fifteen years, from -1799 to 1814, during which time Henry travelled from -Lake Superior to the Pacific. He lived in and travelled -through, at various times, the Canadian Provinces of -Ontario, Manitoba, Assiniboia, Keewatin, Saskatchewan, -Alberta, and British Columbia; while in the -United States his travels were through Wisconsin, Minnesota, -North Dakota, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. -In these long journeys he met many different -tribes of Indians, and saw much of the Chippewas, the -three tribes of the Blackfeet, the Crees, Assiniboines, -Sioux, Sarcees, and other northern tribes, while in his -southern journeyings he reached the Mandans, the -Minitari, the Rees, and even the Cheyennes, south of -the Missouri River, and on the west coast saw many -tribes of the Columbia.</p> - -<p>The journal begins in the autumn of 1799, when he -was camped on the White Earth River, near the foot -of what is now known as Riding Mountain, in Manitoba, -a little west of Portage La Prairie. Here he had -stopped after his journey from Montreal, to trade with -the Indians the liquor, blankets, strouding, and various -trinkets the Indians liked. He made that fall a clear -profit of seven hundred pounds. This was his first -trial in the Northwest.</p> - -<p>In the summer of 1800 Henry was on his way westward,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_255">255</a></span> -with a brigade of canoes, each of which carried -twenty-eight pieces of goods, ten of which were kegs -of rum of nine gallons each; loads which sunk the -canoes to the gunwales. He was proceeding by the -Grande Portage to Lake Winnipeg, over the road which, -even then, was being travelled by many fur traders. -Wherever he found Indians, they were usually drunk, -and when drunk always troublesome. They crossed -the Lake of the Woods, and ran down the river Winnipic. -At Portage de Lisle one of the canoes, to avoid -the trouble of making this portage, passed down near -the north shore with a full load. “She had not gone -many yards when, by some mismanagement of the foreman, -the current bore down her bow full upon the shore -against a rock, upon which the fellow, taking advantage -of his situation, jumped, while the current whirled the -canoe around. The steersman, finding himself within -reach of the shore, jumped upon the rock, with one of -the midmen; the other midman, not being sufficiently -active, remained in the canoe, which was instantly -carried out and lost to view among the high waves. -At length she appeared, and stood perpendicularly for -a moment, when she sank down again, and I then perceived -the man rising upon a bale of drygoods in the -midst of the waves. We made every exertion to get -near him, and did not cease calling out to him to take -courage, and not let go his hold; but alas! he sank -under a heavy swell, and when the bale arose the man -appeared no more. At this time we were only a few -yards from him; but while we were eagerly looking out<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_256">256</a></span> -for him, poor fellow, the whirlpool caught my canoe, -and before we could get away she was half-full of water. -We then made all haste to get ashore, and go in search -of the property. The canoe we found flat upon the -water, broken in many places. However, we hauled -her ashore, and afterwards collected as many pieces -as we could find. The men had landed a few packages -above the rapid, otherwise our loss would have been -still greater.”</p> - -<p>On August 16 they entered Lake Winnipeg, and were -almost wrecked by a storm, the wind blowing violently -over a shoal flat, and raising a tumbling sea. Wild-fowl -were plenty; so were also Rocky Mountain locusts, -which Henry said were thrown up on the beach to a -depth of six to nine inches. He shot a white pelican, -of which many were seen. From here Henry went up -the Red River to establish a trading-fort, and on the way -up he divided his goods, one-half of which were to be -sent to Portage La Prairie on the Assiniboine River. -The Indians here were chiefly canoe and foot people, -and had few horses. Pigeons were very numerous, as -were also fish, and the Indians had some dried buffalo -meat, which was purchased from them. Fruit was -abundant along the bank; plums of three different sorts, -pembinas, and grapes.</p> - -<p>A number of Indians had joined him, all of whom -wanted liquor and supplies. He gave them more or less -liquor, with the result that most of them were drunk -much of the time, and showed no disposition either to -hunt or to trap. As they proceeded up Red River, they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_257">257</a></span> -approached the country ranged over by the Sioux, between -whom and the Ojibwas there was everlasting war. -The Indians were therefore in a continual state of alarm, -and every time a shot was heard they thought that the -enemy were about to attack them. They were now -close to the country of the buffalo, and the Indians -were bringing in fresh meat. Henry speaks of the -abundance of these animals at his camp of August 26, -where, he says, “The ravages of the buffaloes at this -place are astonishing to a person unaccustomed to these -meadows. The beach, once soft black mud, into which -a man would sink knee-deep, is now made hard as -pavement by the numerous herds coming to drink. -The willows are entirely trampled and torn to pieces; -even the bark of the smaller trees is rubbed off in many -places. The grass on the first bank of the river is entirely -worn away. Numerous paths, some of which are -a foot deep in the hard turf, come from the plains to the -brink of the river, and vast quantities of dung gives -this place the appearance of a cattle yard. We have -reached the commencement of the great plains of Red -River, where the eye is lost in one continuous level -westward. Not a tree or a rising ground interrupts the -view.” Here he had his first experience in running buffalo, -and merely for the amusement of it killed not a few.</p> - -<p>The Indians continued drinking and fighting among -themselves. No one as yet had been killed, but more -than one had been severely injured. Now, however, -they had used up all their liquor, and Henry refused to -give them any more; so that while many continued to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_258">258</a></span> -loaf about and beg for drink, some went hunting. Keeping -on up the Red River, he pushed on southward, -being anxious to reach a country where the beaver -seemed to be plenty. Game was very abundant—buffalo, -elk and bears. “Whilst we were arranging -camp I saw a bear on the east side of the river, a little -above us, coming down to drink. I crossed over and -followed him; he instantly stopped within a few paces, -and ran up a large oak. I shot him between the shoulders, -and he fell to the ground like a rock, but in a -moment was scampering away as fast as he could. I -traced him by the blood, and soon found him sitting -under a brush heap, grumbling and licking his wounds. -A second shot dispatched him. By the hideous scream -he uttered when he fell from the tree, I imagined he was -coming at me, and was waiting for him with my second -barrel cocked, when he ran off. I went for my two -men, and it was hard work for us three to drag him to -the canoe; he was very fat. I found that my first ball -had gone through his heart. I was surprised that he -should have been so active after a wound of that kind.”</p> - -<p>Early in September, Henry, having passed up Red -River as far as the mouth of Park River, decided to -build there, and began the work of cutting house logs -and erecting his stockades. Game was astonishingly -abundant, bears being so plenty that they were killed -almost daily. Three men came in with twelve bears; a -hunter returned with four bears, and so on. Now that -they were settled, Henry began to give out to the Indians -their debts; by which is meant that he furnished<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_259">259</a></span> -them the articles that they needed for hunting and for -their life during the winter, charging them with the -articles, which were to be paid for by skins—that is, -the value of a beaver skin. He prepared a seat in -a tall oak, which he used as a lookout station, and from -which he had an extensive view. Every morning he -used to climb to the top of this oak and look over the -country, not only to see where the game was, but also -to see if people were moving about. After the stockade -had been finished, the houses were built, and then came -the task of preparing food for the winter. Meantime, -the Indians had persuaded Henry again to give them -liquor, and they were once more drunk and quarrelling. -Happily, when fighting, they did not use their guns or -bows, but only their knives; and so, although men and -women were frequently severely stabbed and cut, there -were no immediate fatalities.</p> - -<p>Henry was a good deal of a hunter, and much of his -journal is given up to accounts of what he killed. Indian -alarms were as frequent as ever, but none of them -amounted to anything, being causeless panics. In October -Henry made a journey down the river, to look -up some of the people that he had sent off to establish -small trading-posts. On his return, about the middle -of October, he found that his hunter had killed a large -grizzly bear, about a mile from the fort, and mentions -that these bears are not numerous along Red River, -but are more abundant in the Hair Hills. This is -one of the most eastern records for the grizzly bear, -although Long—<cite>Voyages and Travels</cite>, London, 1791—speaks<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_260">260</a></span> -as if they were sometimes found a little further -eastward, even east of the west end of Lake Superior.</p> - -<p>A little later Henry, with one of his hunters and another -man, set off in search of the Red Lake Indians, -whom he wished to inform that he had established a -trading-post here. The journey was long, and much -of it through thick woods and underbrush, and it almost -proved fruitless. However, he at length came across -a young Indian, who was very much frightened at seeing -them, but finally realizing that they were friends, talked -freely to them. The Indian reported that his people -were at Red Lake waiting for traders, and Henry tried -to persuade him to bring them into his fort. Henry -then returned to his post.</p> - -<p>Winter was now approaching. The Indians were -making the mats with which they covered their huts -in winter, while many of the men were preparing to go -to war. An interesting note on wolves appears here, -under date of Sunday, November 2: “Last night the -wolves were very troublesome; they kept up a terrible -howling about the fort, and even attempted to enter -Maymiutch’s hut. A large white one came boldly into -the door, and was advancing toward a young child, -when he was shot dead. Some of them are very audacious. -I have known them to follow people for several -days, attempt to seize a person or a dog, and to be -kept off only by firearms. It does not appear that -hunger makes them so voracious, as they have been -known to pass carcasses of animals which they might -have eaten to their fill, but they would not touch flesh,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_261">261</a></span> -their object seeming to be that of biting. The Canadians -swear that these are mad wolves, and are much -afraid of them.”</p> - -<p>Another note of interest to the zoologist is this: “We -saw a great herd of cows going at full speed southward, -but on coming to our track, which goes to Salt Lake, -they began to smell the ground, and as suddenly as if -they had been fired at, turned toward the mountain. -It is surprising how sagacious these animals are. When -in the least alarmed, they will smell the track of even a -single person in the grass, and run away in the contrary -direction. I have seen large herds walking very slowly -to pasture, and feeding as they went, come to a place -where some persons had passed on foot, when they -would instantly stop, smell the ground, draw back a -few paces, bellow, and tear up the earth with their -horns. Sometimes the whole herd would range along -the road, keeping up a terrible noise, until one of them -was hardy enough to jump over, when they would all -follow, and run some distance.” On November 8, -with an Indian, Henry started in search of Indians -about Grand Forks. Although the weather had been -cold and snowy, it had now turned warm again, and -they had much trouble in crossing streams and sloughs. -They went south, to what Henry’s Indian told him -was the border of the Sioux country, and old camping-grounds -were pointed out, which the Indian said were -Sioux. Beaver appeared to be very numerous, but -they killed nothing, making no fire, and firing no guns, -and keeping their horses always close to them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_262">262</a></span> -In describing the country passed over, Henry speaks -of the Schian River, a tributary of the Red River, which -flows into it about ten miles north of Fargo. This, he -says, “takes its name from a formerly numerous tribe -of Indians who inhabited its upper part. They were a -neutral tribe between the Sioux and Saulteurs for many -years, but the latter, who are of a jealous disposition, -suspected that they favored the Sioux. A very large -party having once been unsuccessful in discovering -their enemies, on their return wreaked their vengeance -on those people, destroying their village, and murdering -most of them. This happened about sixty years ago, -when the Saulteurs were at war with their natural -enemies, the Sioux, of the plains, who are the only inhabitants -of St. Peter’s River. The Schians, having -been nearly exterminated, abandoned their old territory, -and fled southward across the Missouri, where -they are now a wandering tribe.”</p> - -<p>This story agrees very well with the traditions related -by the Cheyennes to-day, except that the modern stories -put back these wars with the Saulteurs much further -than 1740. On November 13 Henry reached the post -again, having failed to find any of the people that he -looked for. Moreover, when he got here he received a -messenger from Langlois, one of his clerks at a trading-post -at the Panbian (Pembina) Mountains, reporting -that a number of more or less turbulent Crees and -Assiniboines were gathering there, and that Henry’s -presence was needed to quiet them. Two days later -he set off, stopping at Bois Percé, where “I remained<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_263">263</a></span> -about an hour with the worthless vagabonds, who do -nothing but play at the game of platter. Nothing is -heard but the noise of the dish, and children bawling -from hunger; their scoundrelly fathers are deaf to their -cries until necessity obliges them to kill a bull for their -sustenance.” On his arrival at the post, he found all -his people well, and the trouble apparently over.</p> - -<p>The weather was now very cold. Swans were passing -south in astonishing numbers. Now the men took no -more raccoons with their traps, for these animals had -begun to hibernate in the hollow trees, where they -would remain like the bears until spring, without any -sustenance.</p> - -<p>Some time before, an Indian named Crooked Legs, -while drunk, had very severely stabbed his young wife, -who now, however, had perfectly recovered. At a drinking-match, -held at the post, just after Henry’s return, this -woman, in revenge, gave her old husband a cruel beating -with a stick, and afterward burned him shockingly -with a brand snatched from the fire.</p> - -<p>Rum was constantly desired by the Indians, and was -begged for on every pretext. If a woman’s husband -died, or a man’s wife, they came to Henry to beg, or -buy, rum to cheer their hearts in their sorrow. A -curious trapping incident is reported November 28. -“La Rocque, Sr., came in with his traps, with a skunk, -a badger, and a large white wolf, all three caught in -the same trap at once, as he said. This was thought -extraordinary—indeed a falsehood—until he explained -the affair. His trap was made in a hollow stump, in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_264">264</a></span> -the center of which there was a deep hole in the ground. -He found the wolf, just caught, and still alive. He -despatched him, and, on taking him out, noticed something -stirring and making a noise in the hole in the -ground. Upon looking in he perceived the badger, -which he killed with a stick, and upon pulling him out, -smelt the horrid stench of the skunk, which was in one -corner of the hole. He soon despatched him also. -From this the Indians all predicted some great misfortune, -either to the person to whom the traps belonged, -or to our fort.”</p> - -<p>Two days later some of the men went raccoon hunting, -the weather being warm. “They returned in the -evening with seven, which they had found in one hollow -tree. The size of this tree was enormous, having a -hollow six feet in diameter, the rim or shell being two -feet thick, including the bark. Raccoon hunting is -common here in the winter season. The hunter examines -every hollow tree met with, and when he sees the -fresh marks of the claws, he makes a hole with an ax, -and then opens the hollow place, in which he lights a -fire, to find out if there be any raccoons within, as they -often climb trees in the autumn, and, not finding them -proper for the purpose, leave them, and seek others. -But if they be within, the smoke obliges them to ascend -and put their heads out of the hole they enter. On -observing this, the ax is applied to the tree; with the -assistance of the fire it is soon down, and the hunter -stands ready to despatch the animals while they -are stunned by the fall. But sometimes they are so<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_265">265</a></span> -obstinate as to remain at the bottom of the hole until -they are suffocated or roasted to death. The bears, -both grizzly and common black, which reside on Red -River, take to hollow trees also, and are hunted by the -Indians in the same manner as raccoons. But the bears -in the Hair Hills and other places never take to the -trees for their winter quarters; they reside in holes in -the ground, in the most intricate thicket they can find, -generally under the roots of trees that have been torn up -by the wind, or have otherwise fallen. These are more -difficult to find, requiring good dogs that are naturally -given to hunt bears. The reason why the bears differ -so widely in the choice of their winter habitations is -obvious. The low lands along the river, where the -woods principally grow, are every spring subject to -overflow, when the ice breaks up. The mud carried -down with the current and left on the banks, makes -their dens uncomfortable. On the Hair Hills and other -high lands, where the ground is free from inundation, -the soft and sandy soil is not so cold as the stiff black -mud on the banks of the river, which appears to be -made ground. Frequently, on digging holes in winter, -we found the frost had penetrated the ground nearly -four feet, like one solid body of ice, while in high, dry, -sandy soil it seldom exceeds one foot in depth.”</p> - -<p>Winter had now set in, as well by the calendar as by -temperature. It was ushered in by a great prairie fire, -which seemed likely to burn over the whole country. -At first it was supposed that the Sioux had fired the -prairie, but later it appeared that the Crees had done it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_266">266</a></span> -by accident. These Crees reported that they had seen -a calf as white as snow in a herd of buffalo; and Henry -mentions how greatly white buffalo are esteemed among -the nations of the Missouri, but that they are not valued -by the Crees and Assiniboines, except to trade to -other tribes. Occasionally buffalo are seen that are -dirty gray, but these are very rare. Christmas and -New Year passed, these holidays being celebrated by -drinking, so that for New Year’s Day Henry says: “By -sunrise every soul of them was raving drunk—even the -children.” Buffalo were now seen in great abundance, -and came within gun-shot of the fort. A day or two -later it was necessary to go out only a short distance -from the fort to kill buffalo, but the cold was so intense -that it was impossible to cut up those killed. On January -2 there arrived at the fort, Berdash, a man who, -as used to be not very uncommon, wore the dress and -busied himself with the occupations properly belonging -to women. He was a swift runner, and was considered -the fleetest man among the Saulteurs. “Both -his speed and his courage were tested some years ago -on the Schian River, where Monsieur Reaume attempted -to make peace between the two nations, and -Berdash accompanied a party of Saulteurs to the Sioux -camp. They at first appeared reconciled to each -other, at the intercession of the whites, but on the -return of the Saulteurs, the Sioux pursued them. Both -parties were on foot, and the Sioux had the name -of being extraordinarily swift. The Saulteurs imprudently -dispersed in the plains, and several of them were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_267">267</a></span> -killed, but the party with Berdash escaped without any -accident, in the following manner: One of them had got -from the Sioux a bow, but only a few arrows. On -starting and finding themselves pursued, they ran a -considerable distance, until they perceived the Sioux -were gaining fast upon them, when Berdash took the -bow and arrows from his comrades, and told them to -run as fast as possible, without minding him, as he -feared no danger. He then faced the enemy, and began -to let fly his arrows. This checked their course, and -they returned the compliment with interest, but it was -so far off that only a chance arrow could have hurt him, -as they had nearly spent their strength when they fell -near him. His own arrows were soon expended, but -he lost no time in gathering up those that fell near him, -and thus he had a continual supply. Seeing his friends -some distance off, and the Sioux moving to surround -him, he turned and ran full speed to join his comrades, -the Sioux after him. When the latter approached too -near, Berdash again stopped and faced them, with his -bow and arrows, and kept them at bay. Thus did he -continue to maneuver until they reached a spot of -strong wood, which the Sioux dared not enter. Some -of the Saulteurs who were present have often recounted -the affair to me. It seemed the Sioux from the first were -inclined to treachery, being very numerous and the -others but few. The Saulteurs were well provided with -guns and ammunition, but on the first meeting were -surrounded, and the guns taken away from them, in -return for which the Sioux gave them bows and arrows;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_268">268</a></span> -but in a manner to be of little use, giving one a bow -and no arrows, another a quiver of arrows, but no -bow.”</p> - -<p>On January 14 he was awakened by the bellowing of -buffalo, and found the plains black, and apparently in -motion. An enormous herd of buffalo surrounded the -fort, and were moving northward, extending south as -far as the eye could see. “I had seen almost incredible -numbers of buffalo in the fall, but nothing in comparison -to what I now beheld. The ground was covered -at every point of the compass as far as the eye could -reach, and every animal was in motion. All hands -soon attacked them with a tremendous running fire, -which put them to a quicker pace, but had no effect in -altering their course. The first roads beaten in the -snow were followed by those in the rear. They passed -in full speed, until about nine o’clock, when their numbers -decreased, and they kept further off in the plains. -There was about fifteen inches of snow on a level, in -some places drifted in great banks. Notwithstanding -the buffalo were so numerous, and twelve guns were -employed, we killed only three cows and one old -bull, but must have wounded a great number.” The -next day the plains were still covered with buffalo, -moving northward; and this continued for a day or two. -The stock of winter provisions was now all laid in—an -abundance of good, fat buffalo meat. In February the -buffalo began to get poor, as they always do at that -time, and toward the end of the month some of the men -caught a cow on the ice of the river, the dogs having<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_269">269</a></span> -surrounded her, and the men entangling her legs in a -line, so that she fell on her side; they then dragged her, -still alive, to the fort, when she jumped to her feet and -ran to attack the dogs. Two men mounted on her back, -but she was as active with this load as before, jumping -and kicking at the dogs in most agile fashion.</p> - -<p>On February 28 an Indian brought in a spring calf, -which he had found dead, an unusually early birth. -The Indians declared that this meant an early spring.</p> - -<p>The first outarde—Canada goose—was seen March 12, -and on the same day a swan. On this day, too, it was -noted that the sap of the box-elder began to run; this -yields a fine white sugar, but not so sweet as that from -the real sugar maple (<i>Acer</i>), He notes that bittersweet -is abundant along the Red River, and that the Indians -eat it in time of famine.</p> - -<p>Now the river, on account of melting snow, began to -rise, and to lift up the ice. Henry began to get out his -canoes and mend them up for the summer use. Wildfowl -made their appearance in great numbers, and on -the 23rd young calves were seen by the men. And now, -the ice of the river coming down, carried with it great -numbers of dead buffalo from above, which had been -drowned in crossing the river while the ice was weak. -Their numbers were astonishing. Often they were -drifted to the shore, where the women cut up some of -the fattest for their own use, the flesh seeming to be -fresh and good. On the 7th of April one of his men -brought in to Henry three wolves born this spring; -another had brought in six, which he had found in one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_270">270</a></span> -hole, and which were now very tame. It was proposed -to keep them for sledge dogs in winter.</p> - -<p>A little later the odor of the decaying buffalo lying -there along the river was terrible. In fact, on his -journey down the river with his goods, which were now -to be despatched to Montreal, the stench of the drowned -buffalo was such that Henry could not eat his supper.</p> - -<p>At last he despatched his goods, and about the first -of June left for the Grand Portage. The proceeds of -the winter’s trade amounted to nearly two thousand -pounds, Halifax currency.</p> - -<div id="ip_270" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24.25em;"> - <img src="images/i_270.jpg" width="388" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">TWO MEN MOUNTED ON HER BACK, BUT SHE WAS AS ACTIVE -WITH THIS LOAD AS BEFORE.</div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_271">271</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">In</span> August, 1801, Henry was on his way to a new -post on the Pembina, the one which Langlois -had established the year before. He intended -to establish also a post at Grandes Fourches, the site -of the present town of Grand Forks, North Dakota. -This business, and his travels to other subsidiary trading-posts -that he built at various points, occupied the -autumn. Game was abundant, and so were fish. The -Hudson’s Bay Company, the opposition, were not far -off, and there was some intercourse between the men -of the two companies. On March 14, during a drinking-match, -occured one of the fights among the Indians -which were so common in those days of abundant liquor. -“Gros Bras, in a fit of jealousy, stabbed Auposoi to -death with a hand-dague; the first stroke opened his -left side, the second his belly, and the third his breast. -He never stirred, although he had a knife in his belt, -and died instantly. Soon after this, Auposoi’s brother -a boy about ten years of age, took the deceased’s gun -loaded it with two balls, and approached Gros Bras’ -tent. Putting the muzzle of the gun through the door,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_272">272</a></span> -the boy fired the two balls into his breast, and killed -him dead, just as he was reproaching his wife for her -affection for Auposoi, and boasting of the vengeance -he had taken. The little fellow ran into the woods and -hid. Little Shell found the old woman, Auposoi’s -mother, in her tent; he instantly stabbed her. Ondainoiache -then came in, took the knife, and gave her a -second stab. Little Shell, in his turn, taking the knife, -gave a third blow. In this manner did these two rascals -continue to murder the old woman as long as there was -any life in her. The boy escaped into Langlois’ house, -and was kept hid until they were all sober.”</p> - -<p>March 15, a swan, a turkey-buzzard, and a hawk, the -first spring birds, were seen; and by the middle of April -wild-fowl were plenty, and calves were becoming numerous. -Passenger pigeons were passing north, and toward -the end of the month some Indians came in with thirty-six -whole beaver in a skin canoe. In May came the -news of a Sioux attack on the Saulteurs, in which seven -of the latter were killed. Henry planted his garden, -and soon after made ready for his departure to join the -brigade.</p> - -<p>The next September he was back again at Panbian -River, trading with the Indians, and, of course, handing -out rum to them. His entry for February 15 contains a -small temperance lecture which represented what he -sometimes preached, but never practised. As he says: -“The Indians totally neglected their ancient customs; -and to what can this degeneration be ascribed but to -their intercourse with us, particularly as they are so<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_273">273</a></span> -unfortunate as to have a continual succession of opposition -parties to teach them roguery, and to destroy -both mind and body with that pernicious article rum? -What a different set of people they would be were there -not a drop of liquor in the country. If a murder is -committed among the Saulteurs, it is due to a drinking -match. You may truly say that liquor is the root of -all evil in the West.”</p> - -<p>Spring came on with the usual signs. The women -were making sugar at the last of March (1803), and it -was noted that spring that very few buffalo drifted -down the river. The plains of the Red River were -covered with water from the sudden melting of the snow, -and the men suffered much, for they were continually -on the march, looking up Indians along every stream. -The water was commonly knee-deep, and in some places -much deeper, and was usually covered with ice in the -morning, making the walking tiresome, and often -dangerous. Some of the best men, Henry says, lose the -use of their legs while still in the prime of life. The -Indians were now bringing in the proceeds of their -spring hunt, and exchanging it for rum. When the -time came around, Henry interrupted his hunting and -his trading to plant his garden, sowing potatoes, cabbage, -and many root crops. With the end of May came the -mosquitoes, a terrible pest. Among the articles traded -for was maple sugar, an important article of food in that -country. As usual, about midsummer, Henry started -down the river with his furs, and reached Fort William -July 3.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_274">274</a></span> -On the 29th of the same month he started on his -return journey, with a brigade of eight canoes; and about -two months later, September 20, found himself at the -present Winnipeg, and soon afterward at the old post -on the Panbian River.</p> - -<p>Horses had now begun to be used in the trade at this -point, and Henry grumbles about them in a long entry, -which is worth reproducing: “It is true they are useful -animals, but if there were not one in all the Northwest -we should have less trouble and expense. Our men -would neither be so burdened with families, nor so -indolent and insolent as they are, and the natives in -general would be more honest and industrious. Let -an impartial eye look into the affair, to discover whence -originates the unbounded extravagance of our meadow -gentry, both white and native, and horses will be found -one of the principal causes. Let us view the bustle -and noise which attended the transportation of five -pieces of goods to a place where the houses were built -in 1801–02. The men were up at break of day, and -their horses tackled long before sunrise; but they were -not ready to move before ten o’clock, when I had the -curiosity to climb on top of my house to watch their -motions, and observe their order of march.</p> - -<p>“Antoine Payet, guide and second in command, leads -the van with a cart drawn by two horses, and loaded -with private baggage, cassetetes, bags, kettles, and mashqueminctes. -Madame Payet follows the cart, with a -child a year old on her back, very merry. Charles -Bottineau, with two horses and a cart, loaded with 1<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_275">275</a></span>½ -packs, his own baggage, and two young children, with -kettles and other trash hanging on to it. Madame Bottineau, -with a squalling infant on her back, scolding and -tossing it about. Joseph Dubord goes on foot, with his -long pipestem and calumet in his hand. Madame -Dubord follows on foot, carrying his tobacco pouch with -a broad bead tail. Antoine Thellier, with a cart and two -horses, loaded with 1½ packs of goods, and Dubois’ baggage. -Antoine La Pointe, with another cart and horses, -loaded with two pieces of goods, and with baggage belonging -to Brisebois, Jasmin, and Pouliot, and a kettle -hung on each side. Auguste Brisebois follows, with -only his gun on his shoulder and a fresh-lighted pipe in -his mouth. Michel Jasmin goes next, like Brisebois, -with gun and pipe, puffing out clouds of smoke. -Nicolas Pouliot, the greatest smoker in the Northwest, -has nothing but pipe and pouch; those three fellows -have taken a farewell dram, and lighted fresh pipes, -go on brisk and merry, playing numerous pranks. -Dormin Livernois, with a young mare, the property of -Mr. Langlois, loaded with weeds for smoking, an old -worsted bag (madame’s property), some squashes and -potatoes, a small keg of fresh water, and two young -whelps, howling. Next goes Livernois’ young horse, -drawing a travaille, loaded with baggage and a large -worsted mashguemcate, belonging to Madame Langlois. -Next appears Madame Cameron’s mare, kicking, rearing, -and snorting, hauling a travaille loaded with a bag -of flour, cabbage, turnips, onions, a small keg of water, -and a large kettle of broth. Michel Langlois, who is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_276">276</a></span> -master of the band, now comes on leading a horse that -draws a travaille nicely covered with a new painted tent, -under which his daughter and Mrs. Cameron lie at full -length, very sick; this covering or canopy has a pretty -effect in the caravan, and appears at a great distance in -the plains. Madame Langlois brings up the rear of -the human beings, following the travaille with a slow -step and melancholy air, attending to the wants of her -daughter, who, nothwithstanding her sickness, can find -no other expressions of gratitude to her parents than -by calling them dogs, fools, beasts, etc. The rear-guard -consists of a long train of twenty dogs, some for sleighs, -some for game, and others for no use whatever, except -to snarl and destroy meat. The total forms a procession -nearly a mile long, and appears like a large band -of Assiniboines.”</p> - -<p>Early in November Henry went over to the Hair -Hills. In March, on a journey from the Hair Hills to -his home, he says that he travelled in the night always, -preferring to do so at this season of the year, partly to -avoid snow blindness, and partly because the cold of -the night makes travel easier than during the day, when -the snow is melted and soft, and dogs and sledges sink -deep into it. In April, when he was chasing buffalo, -he came near leaving his bones in the plains, a prey for -the wolves. “This was occasioned by my horse stumbling -while at full speed. I was just drawing my gun -from the belt to fire, holding it by the barrel, near the -muzzle, when the sudden shock caused the priming to -fire the gun; the ball passed near my hip and struck in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_277">277</a></span> -the ground, and the gun flew some distance. I was -in the midst of the herd; a fine large calf passing near -me, I dismounted, caught him by the tail, and held him -fast; he began to bleat, when instantly the mother -turned and rushed at me; I was glad to let go and run -to my horse. As I reflected on my narrow escape, it -brought to my mind a similar affair which happened -to me some years ago at Michipicoten, when shooting -wildfowl in the spring, in a small canoe. In attempting -to remove my gun from my left to my right side, passing -the muzzle behind my back, the cock got fast in one of -the bars, and, on my pulling the gun forward from -behind me, she went off; the load grazed my right side, -taking a piece of my belt and capot away.”</p> - -<p>In April he bought a beautiful white buffalo skin; -the hair was long, soft and perfectly white, resembling a -sheep’s fleece. Early in May extraordinary numbers of -wild pigeons were seen, and the Indian women were -preparing the ground for their farming. With the summer -came the usual packing of the furs, and the journey -to Kamanistiquia. The return journey was a short -one, and Henry reached the Panbian River early in -September. In October he writes, as showing the -excellence of his horse, that one day he ran an elk five -miles before killing it; then chased a hare, which he -killed after a long pursuit; and finally, toward evening, -he ran a herd of buffalo, and killed a fat cow for supper. -Besides these long races, he had covered about thirty-six -miles of travel.</p> - -<p>This winter, because he refused to give credit to an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_278">278</a></span> -Indian for a blanket, Henry was twice shot at, but -missed. On his return to his post that summer, he -learned of an attack on a small camp of his Indians by -Sioux a month earlier. This is the story as Henry gives -it, and it may be retold because it illustrates Indian -modes: “My beau-père (father-in-law) was the first -man that fell, about eight o’clock in the morning. He -had climbed a tree to see if the buffalo were at hand, -as they were tented there to make dried provisions. He -had no sooner reached the top than two Sioux discoverers -[scouts] fired at the same moment, and both balls -passed through his body. He had only time to call out -to his family, who were in the tent, about a hundred -paces from him, ‘Save yourselves, the Sioux are killing -us!’ and fell dead to the ground, his body breaking -several branches of the tree as it dropped. The noise -brought the Indians out of the tent, when, perceiving -their danger, the women and children instantly ran -through the plains toward an island of wood on Tongue -River, about a mile distant, and on a direct line toward -the fort. The men took their arms and made off also, -keeping in the rear of their women and children, whom -they urged on. The four surviving men had not gone -more than a quarter of a mile when they saw the main -body of the war party, on horseback, rushing down upon -them. Crossing Tongue River, and in a few moments -coming up with them, the Sioux began to fire. The four -men, by expert maneuvers and incessant fire, prevented -the enemy from closing in on them, while the women -and children continued to fly, and the men followed.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_279">279</a></span> -They were within about two hundred paces of the wood, -and some of the most active had actually entered it, -when the enemy surrounded and fell upon them. Three -of the Saulteurs fled in different directions; Grand -Gueule escaped before they were completely surrounded, -but the other two were killed. One who remained to -protect the women and children was a brave fellow—Aceguemanche, -or Little Chief; he waited deliberately -until the enemy came very near, when he fired at one -who appeared to be a chief, and knocked the Sioux -from his horse. Three young girls and a boy were -taken prisoners; the remainder were all murdered and -mutilated in a horrible manner. Several women and -children had escaped in the woods, where the enemy -chased them on horseback, but the willows and brush -were so intricate that every one of these escaped. A -boy about twelve years old, when the Sioux pursued, -crawled into a hollow under a bunch of willows, which -a horseman leaped over without perceiving him. One -of the little girls who escaped tells a pitiful story of her -mother, who was killed. This woman, having two young -children that could not walk fast enough, had taken one -of them on her back and prevailed upon her sister-in-law -to carry the other; but when they got near the woods, -and the enemy rushed upon them with hideous yells -and war-whoops, the young woman was so frightened -that she threw down the child and soon overtook the -mother, who, observing that the child was missing, and -hearing its screams, kissed her little daughter—the one -who relates the story—saying, with tears streaming<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_280">280</a></span> -from her eyes: ‘Take courage, my daughter; try to reach -the woods, and if you do, go to your eldest sister, who -will be kind to you; I must turn back and recover your -youngest sister, or die in the attempt. Take courage; -run fast, my daughter!’ Poor woman! She actually -did recover her child, and was running off with both -children, when she was felled to the ground by a blow -on the head with a war-club. She recovered instantly, -drew her knife, and plunged it into the neck of her -murderer; but others coming up, she was despatched. -Thus my belle-mère ended her days.”</p> - -<p>This same story is told by Tanner, who was then an -Indian captive, living with the Chippewas. Tanner even -mentions Henry’s name, and speaks of his father-in-law -having been killed. The Saulteurs were determined to -avenge the death of their relations, and Henry furnished -them with ammunition for their war journey. Later, he -visited the battle-field and the Sioux camp, and judged -from the sign that there must have been about three -hundred men in the Sioux party. In October the remains -of the Sioux killed by Little Chief were discovered -by some of the Indians; and the certainty that -their enemies had met one loss was some satisfaction -to the Saulteurs.</p> - -<div id="ip_280" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_280.jpg" width="600" height="384" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">FUR TRADERS OF THE NORTH.</div></div> - -<p>Although Henry had made an agreement with Mr. -Miller, an agent of the Hudson’s Bay Company, by -which the rum to be given to the Indians should be -limited, the winter did not pass without deaths due to -drinking. One of these was an accident where a drunken -Indian knocked down a gun which, exploding, killed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_281">281</a></span> -one of Henry’s men, who was lying on a bed in the next -room. The profits for the season’s work in 1805 and -1806, as given in Henry’s diary, are nearly three thousand -five hundred pounds.</p> - -<p>Early in July, 1806, after his return from down the -river, Henry made preparations to set off on a tour to -the south-west, to the country of the Mandans, who then, -as now, lived on the Missouri River. There had been -heavy rains, and the plains of the Red River were covered -with water, or else were so muddy that travel was slow -and exceedingly laborious. The horses often sank up -to their knees in mud, and at times had water up to their -bellies, while the little rivulets which they crossed they -were obliged to swim, carrying on their heads such articles -as they wished to keep dry. Mosquitoes were a -veritable plague, and Henry had prepared a mask of thin -dressed caribou skin, which in some measure protected -him; but those who were not provided with some defense -suffered terribly. Only when the wind blew was there -any relief. They were more than once obliged to make -rafts, and when they were naked, hauling the raft back -and forth, they had no defense against the mosquitoes. -The horses suffered as much as the men.</p> - -<p>The final start for the Mandans was from the establishment -on Mouse River, and the party consisted of -seven persons, of whom one was a Saulteur, a brother-in-law -of Chaboillez, who had undertaken to guide the -party to the Mandans. It was midsummer, and they -travelled west-southwest over delightful prairies, where -antelope were exceedingly abundant. After crossing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_282">282</a></span> -Mouse River, they found buffalo in great plenty, and all -in motion, from east to west. It was the rutting season, -and the herds were noisy and excited. On the 18th of -July, as they were crossing the high Missouri plains, -they came in sight of the buttes, called Maison du Chien, -now commonly known as the Dogden Buttes. This is -one of the great landmarks of the country, and many -stirring adventures have taken place within sight of it. -A little later they could see the high red banks of the -Missouri before them, a long way off.</p> - -<p>When they reached it, they found plenty of tracks of -people there, and an abundance of last year’s corncobs. -The winter village of the Minitaris was near. A well-defined -trail led down the river, and they were several -times in danger of breaking their necks in deep pits, -which the natives had dug in the path to catch wolves -and foxes in winter. Some of these were ten feet deep, -and hollowed out in places to about thirty feet in circumference, -while the entrance was no wider than a -foot-path, and about five feet in length. “These holes -are covered with dried grass, at the season when the -wolves are caught, and every morning are found to -contain some of those animals. In summer the grass -grows strong and high about the mouths, entirely concealing -them until one arrives upon the very brink, -and he is in danger of tumbling in headlong.” Down -the river about five miles they came to a Mandan -village. The people received them pleasantly, and the -Black Cat, the chief, took them to one of his houses, -which was kept for strangers. The people were desirous<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_283">283</a></span> -of trading, and could not understand why the white -men should have come so far out of mere curiosity. As -usual in these permanent villages of earth lodges, the -horses at night were confined in one part of the lodge -while the people slept in the other. The Mandans had -large earthen pots of different sizes, from five gallons to -one quart, used solely for boiling corn and beans. The -Black Cat was told the next day by a Canadian who -lived in the neighboring Mandan village, who his visitors -were, and at once brought out the American flag, -given him in the autumn of 1804 by Captains Lewis and -Clark, and hoisted it over the hut in which the strangers -were staying. When they were about to cross the river -and go to the opposite village, they packed up such -goods as they had, and the few things they had purchased, -chiefly provisions, and gave them into the care -of the chief. “These people are much given to thieving, -but in the hut in which a stranger is lodged his property -may be left in perfect security; none dare touch it, as -the master conceives his honor concerned in whatever -is placed under his immediate protection. Out of doors, -if they can pick your pocket or pilfer any article, it is -gone in an instant, and search would be in vain; every -one would wish to appear innocent, although they are -not offended when accused of stealing, but laugh the -matter away.”</p> - -<p>Henry and his people crossed the river in bull-boats, -and were well received at the other Mandan village. -He noted the expertness of the young men in getting -the horses across, one swimming ahead with the rope<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_284">284</a></span> -in his teeth, while others swam on each side, and in the -rear, driving each horse very rapidly. He also saw -bull-boats—a new vessel to him. They had hardly -reached the village when there came in some Pawnees -from down the river on an embassy to treat for peace. -They could not speak the language either of the Mandans -or the Minitaris, but they talked freely in signs; -and this sign language seems to have been a surprise to -Henry. He says: “They hold conversations for several -hours upon different subjects, during the whole of -which time not a single word is pronounced upon either -side, and still they appear to comprehend each other -perfectly well. This mode of communication is natural -to them. Their gestures are made with the greatest -ease, and they never seem to be at a loss for a sign to -express their meaning.”</p> - -<p>These people collected their fuel in the spring, when -the ice broke up, and great quantities of wood drifted -down. The young men were accustomed to swim out -among the drifting ice and bring in the trees, however -large, which they hauled out on the bank. Immense -piles of driftwood were seen opposite each village, and -some of the trees were very large. While collecting -this driftwood, they also drew to land great numbers of -drowned buffalo, of which they were very fond.</p> - -<p>He noticed—as have many others—that some children -were gray-haired, and that others were blond. A -Minitari was seen with yellow hair, something not unexampled -in old times.</p> - -<p>The men wore their hair twisted into a number of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_285">285</a></span> -small tails, hanging down the back to below the waist. -In some of them it trailed on the ground. The Cheyennes -to-day tell us that a hundred years ago the men -of their tribe wore their hair in the same fashion. From -the village of the Mandans they went on up the river -to those of the Soulier [Amahami, a tribe now extinct] -and Minitari villages. Here they met Mackenzie and -Caldwell, employees in the service of the Northwest -Company, who had been residing some little time in the -village.</p> - -<p>Henry was not particularly well pleased with his reception -here, and indeed the Indians paid little attention -to the white men, and seemed to despise them. The -village, which formerly contained nine hundred houses, -now had only a hundred and thirty, smallpox and other -diseases having reduced them to that number. While -in this village the white men found it dangerous to stray -out of the hut without a stout stick to keep off the -dogs, which were so numerous and savage as sometimes -actually to attack them. The people had many horses. -Henry greatly objected to their custom of apparently -becoming dissatisfied with their bargain after a trade -had been concluded, and returning and taking back -the article they had sold, while giving up the price paid -for it. For example: “One of the natives had a turkey -cock’s tail, great numbers of which they got from the -Schians, and which serve them as fans; this was a new -and fresh one of beautiful hue. I gave him five rounds -of ammunition for it, with which he appeared well satisfied, -and left me, but soon returned with the ammunition,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_286">286</a></span> -and demanded the tail. Being loth to part with -it, I added five more rounds to the price, which he accepted -and went away. However, he soon reappeared -and I added four more; but to no purpose, for he -continued to go and come until the payment amounted -to thirty rounds. Upon his next appearance I offered -forty rounds; but he would no longer listen to any -offer, threw down my ammunition, and insisted upon -my returning him the tail, which I was obliged to do.”</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_287">287</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ALEXANDER HENRY (THE YOUNGER)</span> - -<span class="subhead">III</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">On</span> July 28 they started on their return to the -north, in constant fears and alarms lest the Assiniboines -should steal their horses. A few -days later the horses, troubled by mosquitoes, broke -their ropes, and eight of them ran off in their hobbles. -These could not be found again, and some of the people -were obliged to go forward on foot, while the baggage -was loaded on the remaining horses.</p> - -<p>On his journey back to the Pembina River, Henry had -an experience comical to read about, but not to endure. -“We took the traverse for the mountain, but on coming -to Cypress River found it had overflowed its banks about -three acres on each side, and could find no fordable -place. We were obliged to turn out of our way some -miles, in going to where we perceived a large, dry poplar -tree, and a few stunted willows, but there we had the -mortification to find that the wood stood on the opposite -side of the river. There being no alternative, we -unloaded our horses and stripped. I crossed over, collected -what brush I could find, and with the poplar<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_288">288</a></span> -formed a raft, so very slight as to carry scarcely more -than fifty pounds’ weight. The mosquitoes were intolerable, -and as we were obliged to remain naked for -about four hours, we suffered more than I can describe. -The grass on each side was too high to haul our raft -through to dry land; we could use it only on the river by -means of two long cords, one fastened to each end. -Ducharme hauled it over to his side, and after making -it fast, he went to dry land for a load in water up to his -armpits, whilst I waited with my whole body immersed -until he brought down a load and laid it upon the raft. -I then hauled it over and carried the load to dry land -upon my head. Every time I landed the mosquitoes -plagued me insufferably; and still worse, the horse that -I had crossed over upon was so tormented that he broke -his fetters and ran away. I was under the cruel necessity -of pursuing him on the plains entirely naked; fortunately -I caught him and brought him back. I suffered -a good deal from the sharp-pointed grass pricking my -bare feet, and mosquito bites covered my body. The -sun was set before we finished our transportation. The -water in this river is always excessively cold, and by -the time we got all over, our bodies were as blue as -indigo; we were shivering like aspen leaves, and our -legs were cut and chafed by the coarse, stiff grass. We -shot an old swan, and caught two young ones that could -not fly; this made us a comfortable supper.”</p> - -<p>Henry reached the fort August 14.</p> - -<p>“One of our hunters killed thirty-six prime bears in -the course of the season on the Hair Hills. Whatever<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_289">289</a></span> -number of bears an Indian may kill in the summer or -fall is considered of no consequence, as they are valueless -and easy to hunt, but after they have taken up -their winter quarters the Indians glory in killing -them.”</p> - -<p>In August, 1808, Henry finally left the Panbian River -on his way westward, bidding adieu also to the Saulteur -tribes, among which, as he says, he had passed sixteen -long winters. His journey was through Lake Winnipeg -to the Saskatchewan and Lake Bourbon, now known as -Cedar Lake. On the 22nd he passed old Fort Bourbon, -established in 1749 by Vérendrye, and entered one of -the channels of the Saskatchewan. Wild-fowl were very -abundant as they pushed up the river. At last they -entered Sturgeon Lake, and reached Cumberland House. -They kept on up the stream, ascending the north branch, -from time to time meeting Indians, some of whom were -Assiniboines, called Assiniboines of the Saskatchewan, -and as they had before this purchased some horses, they -were fearful that these might be stolen. It was now -September, and the bushes were loaded with choke-cherries -and service berries. Buffalo paths running in -every direction were deep and numerous. Ammunition -was issued early in September to the men for purposes -of defense. Soon buffalo were met, and here Henry -first ran these animals over the rough ground of the -plains, covered with large round, stones, and pierced -at frequent intervals with badger holes. On September -13 he reached Fort Vermilion, where was a fort of the -Hudson’s Bay Company, and found the Blackfeet all<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_290">290</a></span> -about. Here Henry wintered, expecting to be visited -by numerous tribes from the south.</p> - -<p>Just before Christmas, in December, the Blackfeet -invited Henry and his Hudson’s Bay neighbor to come -to their camp and see buffalo driven into the pound. -The two men went in dog sledges, and were kindly -received by the Indians, but the weather was insufferable, -being foggy, and the wind was contrary. They -viewed the pound, where they “had only the satisfaction -of viewing the mangled carcasses strewn about the -pound. The bulls were mostly entire, none but good -cows having been cut up. The stench from this inclosure -was great, even at this season, for the weather -was mild.” From the lookout hill, buffalo were seen -in enormous numbers, but as the wind was unfavorable, -every herd that was brought near to the pound dispersed -and ran away. After having been there two -days, Henry became disgusted, and returned to the post; -but he was followed by a number of Blackfeet, who -arrived the next day, and told him that they had scarcely -left when a large herd was brought into the pound.</p> - -<p>On the 26th of September, 1810, Henry set off on -horseback, westward; the canoes, of course, coming up -the stream. Their destination was Rocky Mountain -House, a post located on the north Saskatchewan River, -a mile and a half above the mouth of Clearwater, three -miles below Pangman’s Tree, so named from the fact -that Peter Pangman carved an inscription on it when -he first sighted the mountains in 1790.</p> - -<p>On the way up the stream they found signs of beaver<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_291">291</a></span> -extremely abundant; but although one of the Indians -set traps in the hope of taking some, the winds blew the -smoke of the camp toward the traps, and the beaver did -not leave their houses that night. The next day, however, -they took two, the signs still showing the presence -of great quantities of beaver. Ahead of Henry was a -camp of Sarsi, twenty-five lodges, which had just left, -for at their camp on Medicine Lodge River, a branch of -the Red Deer; the fires were still burning. They must -have made a good hunt here, since the bones of beaver, -bear, moose, elk and buffalo lay about their camp in -great quantities. That afternoon they met five lodges -of Bloods and Sarsi, with whom they camped. Game -was abundant, and Henry notes on the 5th the appearance -of a herd of strongwood buffalo, the bison of the -hills and mountains, so different in appearance and -some of their habits from those of the prairie. Here, -too, were seen the fresh tracks of a grizzly bear, measuring -fourteen inches in length.</p> - -<p>When they reached the fort they found the Piegans -friendly and quiet, but suspicious of the whites. “These -Piegans had the fresh hide of a bull they had killed at the -foot of the Rocky Mountains. This was really a curiosity; -the hair on the back was dirty white, and the long -hair under the throat and forelegs iron-gray, and sides -and belly were yellow. I wished to purchase it, but -the owners would not part with it under any consideration.” -It is well understood that white buffalo, or -those that are spotted, or indeed of any unusual color, -are very highly esteemed by the tribes of the plains.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_292">292</a></span> -Henry has referred to this before, and I have called -attention to the sacredness of the white buffalo’s hide -among the Blackfeet, Bloods, and Piegans, and among -the Cheyennes further to the south.</p> - -<p>It was now an active time, Bloods, Piegans, and -Sarsi coming and going, bringing in some beaver, for -which they received tobacco, rum, and trifles, and -occasionally a gift of clothing to some man who had -brought in an especially good lot of beaver. On November -4 the traders had in store 720 beaver, 33 grizzly -bears, 20 buffalo robes, 300 muskrats, 100 lynx—not a -bad trade for the season of the year.</p> - -<p>November 9: “I rode up river about three miles to -the rising ground on the north side, where Mr. Pangman -carved his name on the pine in 1790. This spot -was the utmost distant of discoveries on the Saskatchewan -toward the Rocky Mountains, of which, indeed, -we had a tolerable view from this hill. The winding -course of the river is seen until it enters the gap of the -mountains, a little east of which appears another gap, -through which, I am told, flows a south branch that -empties into the Saskatchewan some miles above this -place. The mountains appear at no great distance, all -covered with snow; while we have none.” The arrival -this day of an express from below brought the news that -an act of Parliament had been passed prohibiting the -sale of spirituous liquors among the Indians.</p> - -<p>The weather was now cold, the river occasionally -choking up with ice, and snow fell. The canoes were -split by the frost, and axes broke while the men were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_293">293</a></span> -chopping with them. Men were sent out to get dogs -for hauling, and as soon as the country became covered -with snow, dog trains were sent down to lower Terre -Blanche to bring up goods. Gros Ventres of the -Prairie had just returned with sixty horses, stolen from -the Flatheads, and others had gone off to try to take -more. On the 27th of December, “Our hunter had -killed a large grizzly bear, very lean, and, as usual -with them in that state, very wicked; he narrowly escaped -being devoured. They seldom den for the winter, -as black bears do, but wander about in search of prey.”</p> - -<p>In February Henry made a trip to the Continental -Divide, to where the waters of a branch of the Columbia -rise within a very short distance of the Saskatchewan. -He was obliged to tell the Piegans that he was going -down the stream instead of up. Travel was by dog -sledge, and over the frozen river, in which there were -no air holes to be seen. On the way up, during the first -day, they found a carcass of a deer that had been killed -by wolves. The ice was of great thickness, so that at -night, when a man was endeavoring to get water from -the stream, he was obliged to cut with an axe for an hour -before it flowed. As they went up the stream, the -banks grew higher and nearer together, and at one point -there were seen tracks of animals coming down the -mountains among the rocks. “These are the gray -sheep which have been seen about this place, and which -delight to dwell among precipices and caverns, where -they feed on a peculiar sort of clay.” The reference is -evidently to a “lick,” a place where a mineral spring has<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_294">294</a></span> -given a saline taste to the earth round about. Such licks -are common enough in the Rocky Mountains and many -other places, and are regularly visited by sheep, which -often gnaw away the earth in many places and over a -considerable space. A little further up the stream they -were in full view of the mountains. The river being -low, flowed through numerous channels, some of which -were free from ice; others which were frozen, had water -flowing over the ice. On account of the wind there -was little snow on the gravel bars, and the hauling was -hard for the dogs and bad for the sleds.</p> - -<p>On the 5th he overtook his people, who had started -several days earlier, and who had killed three sheep and -three cows. Here Henry stopped for a day, and sent off -three men to hunt sheep, wishing to obtain the entire -skin of an old ram. This they failed to secure, but one -of them had seen the tracks of a white goat. The next -day, keeping on, sheep tracks were seen, and Henry -indulges in reflections on the wonderful places which -they passed over, and their sureness of foot. The -following day, “Shortly after leaving camp, we saw a -herd of about thirty rams feeding among the rocks on -the north side. They did not seem to be shy, though the -noise of our bells and dogs was sufficient to have alarmed -a herd of buffalo two miles off. The rams stood for -some time gazing at us, and did not retreat until some -people with dogs climbed up to fire at them, when they -set off at full speed, directing their course up the mountain. -I was astonished to see with what agility they -scaled the cliffs and crags. At one time I supposed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_295">295</a></span> -them hemmed in by rocks so steep and smooth that it -seemed impossible for any animal to escape being dashed -to pieces below, but the whole herd passed this place on -a narrow horizontal ledge, without a single misstep, -and were soon out of sight.” Here Henry seems to -have seen his first flock of dippers, which interested -him not a little; and on the ice above this point he found -the remains of a ram which had been run down by -wolves and devoured.</p> - -<p>There were plenty of buffalo on Kutenai Plains, which -they now reached, but they killed none, a hunter firing -at a sheep having driven them off. Moose and elk were -plenty here, as well as white-tailed deer and grizzly -bears; and here, too, were seen “white partridges”—in -other words, white-tailed ptarmigan. Still following -up the river, the snow grew deeper and deeper, so that -at length they were obliged to take to snow-shoes, and to -beat a path for their dogs. On the 9th of February they -reached the Continental Divide, and passing through -thick forest came to a small opening where three streams -of Columbian waters join. The brook thus formed is -Blueberry Creek, which runs into the Columbia. That -morning, when leaving camp, in the Kutenai Park, a -place where the Kutenais used to drive buffalo over -the cliff, Henry had left his hunter, Desjarlaix, behind, -telling him to try to kill a white goat. Shortly after -his return to the camp, his hunter came in and told -Henry that he had seen large white goats on the mountain, -directly off Kutenai Park, where he had been trying -since daybreak to get a shot at them. “He was almost<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_296">296</a></span> -exhausted, the snow being up to his middle, and the -ground so steep as not to admit of snow-shoes. He had -worked about a quarter of the way up the mountain, -but had been obliged to abandon the attempt to reach -the animals. They did not appear the least shy, but -stood gazing at him, and cropping the stunted shrubs -and blades of long grass which grew in crevices in -places where the wind had blown the snow off. As I -desired to obtain the skin of one of those animals, I -gave him dry mittens and trousers to put on, went with -him to the foot of the mountain, and I pointed out a -place where I supposed it was possible to reach them. -We could perceive all three, still standing abreast on -the edge of a precipice, looking down upon us, but they -were at a great height. He once more undertook the -arduous task of climbing up in pursuit of them, while I -returned to the camp. A hunter in these mountains -requires many pairs of shoes (i. e., moccasins), the rocks -are so rough and sharp that a pair of good strong moose-leather -shoes are soon torn to pieces. The white goat -is [not] larger than the gray sheep, thickly covered with -long, pure white wool, and has short black, nearly -erect horns. These animals seldom leave the mountain -tops; winter or summer they prefer the highest -regions. Late in the evening my hunter returned, exhausted, -and covered with ice, having labored in the -snow till his clothes became all wet, and soon after stiff -with ice. He had ascended half way when the sun set, -which obliged him to return.”</p> - -<p>The next day Henry wished to send his hunter out<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_297">297</a></span> -again, but the poor fellow was so done up and his legs so -swollen by the exercise of the day before that the effort -was given up. They therefore started down the river, -past the camp of the day before, where they found that -the men had killed sheep, buffalo, a large black wolf, -and a Canada lynx. The following day they saw a herd -of rams on the rocks, and tried to get a shot, “but one of -our men, being some distance ahead, and not observing -them, continued to drive on, which alarmed and drove -them up into the mountains. I regretted this very -much as the herd consisted of old rams with enormous -horns; one of them appeared to be very lean, with -extraordinarily heavy horns, whose weight he seemed -scarcely able to support. When the horns grow to -such great length, forming a complete curve, the ends -project on both sides of the head so as to prevent the -animal from feeding, which, with their great weight, -causes the sheep to dwindle to a mere skeleton and die. -We soon afterward saw a herd of buffalo on the hills -near the river, but on hearing the sound of the bells they -ran away, and appeared much more shy than sheep.” -Continuing down the river, they reached the fort, -February 13.</p> - -<p>Henry finished the winter at Rocky Mountain House, -and in May, 1811, started down the river to Fort -Augustus.</p> - -<p>There is now a long break, extending over two years, -in Henry’s journal, the third part, as Dr. Coues has -divided it, being devoted to the Columbia. November -15, 1813, finds him at Astoria, the scene of so many<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_298">298</a></span> -trials of fur traders, and the place about which so many -books have been written. The journal for the two intervening -years has not been discovered. It may yet -turn up and, if it shall, will undoubtedly give us much -interesting information. What we know is that Henry -came to Astoria from Fort William, but how he got there -we do not know. His party came, however, in bark -canoes, for a contemporary writer says as much as that. -Not only was Henry here on the west coast, but his -nephew, William Henry, who had been frequently associated -with him in past years, even back on the -Pembina River.</p> - -<p>The character of the Indians here interested Henry, -and he makes his usual frank and not always elegant -comments on them. On November 30 the British -ship “Raccoon” reached Astoria, captured the place, -and thereafter it was a British trading-post, under the -name Fort George. Duncan McDougal, the chief -factor, had left the Northwest Company to enter Mr. -Astor’s service, in 1810, but without any particular -hesitation he surrendered to the British ship, although -the Indians were only too anxious to defend the place -for the Americans, and to assist the white men in holding -it. As a matter of fact, however, most of the employees -of Mr. Astor were British subjects, and were -very glad to have the place taken.</p> - -<p>Much time was expended on the final settlement of -the accounts between McDougal, who had been Mr. -Astor’s representative at Astoria, and the representatives -of the Northwest Company, who were now in possession;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_299">299</a></span> -but at last this was all finished, and on December 31 -the “Raccoon” made sail, and disappeared behind -Point Adams.</p> - -<p>Rains were constant, and the fur traders and their -property suffered much from wet and dampness. With -this spring, Henry for the first time seems to have seen -the Indians catching smelts and herrings, and describes -the well-known rake used on the western coast: -“They had a pole about ten feet long and two inches -thick, on one side of which was fixed a range of small -sharp bones, like teeth, about one inch long, a quarter -of an inch asunder, the range of teeth ascending six -feet up the blade. This instrument is used in smelt -fishery.” As is well known, the Indians sweep this -instrument through the water in places where the small -fish are schooled, and at each sweep of the rake from -one to half dozen fish are impaled, when the implement -being brought to the surface and held over the -canoe, the fish are jarred from it into the vessel. On -the 28th of February a ship, the “Pedler,” brought Mr. -Hunt, who was second to Mr. Astor in the management -of the Pacific Fur Company, and headed the original -overland Astor expedition in 1810–1812.</p> - -<p>There was now a gathering of all the partners and -those interested in the Northwest Company and the -Pacific Fur Company for a settling of accounts between -Hunt and McDougal. The “Pedler” got under way -April 2. On April 4 a brigade of ten canoes set off up -the river. This left a small contingent at Fort George, -and this contingent very ill provided. They had a little -spoiled California beef and a little bad grease. In<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_300">300</a></span> -addition they had only the smelts caught by the Indians -and these were often spoiled, so that the men refused -to eat them, and the little provision that they could -buy from the Indians, a few beaver, deer, and elk—called -<i>biche</i> by Henry. As a result many of the men -were ill, and fourteen were in hospital at one time. To -help out the lack of sugar or molasses, they experimented -in making a decoction of camas root, which -produces a kind of syrup, preferable to molasses for -sweetening coffee. Among the skins brought in by the -Indians were occasionally those of tame cats, which -Henry conjectures to be the offspring of cats lost from -Spanish ships that had been cast ashore.</p> - -<p>April 22 a ship was seen, which proved to be the -“Isaac Todd,” on which came Mr. J. C. McTavish, -who was to take charge of Fort George as governor. -Work went on; loading and unloading the ship, buying -provisions, the annoyances of small quarrels between -various people. The entry in Henry’s diary of May -21, 1814, is partly finished, and then ends with a dash; -for on Sunday, May 22, Alexander Henry, Donald -McTavish, and five sailors were drowned while going -out to the ship.</p> - -<p>So perished Alexander Henry, the younger, after -twenty-two years of adventure, extending from the -Great Lakes to the Pacific, and from the Missouri River -north to Lake Athabasca. It may fairly be said of all -the books that have been written by the early travellers -and traders in America this is the most interesting and -the most curious.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_301">301</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ROSS COX</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">On</span> the 17th of October, 1811, the ship “Beaver,” -Captain Cornelius Sowles, sailed from New York -for the mouth of the Columbia River. She -carried one partner, six clerks, and a number of artisans -and voyageurs, of the Pacific Fur Company, an association -of which John Jacob Astor was the chief proprietor. -Among the clerks on this ship was Ross Cox, who, -some years later, published a work in two volumes, -called <cite>The Columbia River, or Scenes and Adventures -During a Residence of Six Years on the Western Side -of the Rocky Mountains among Various Tribes of Indians -Hitherto Unknown, Together with a Journey -Across the American Continent</cite>.</p> - -<p>Cox was a British subject, but, like many of his compatriots, -was eager to secure an appointment in Mr. -Astor’s company, for he was captivated by the love -of novelty, and by the hope of speedily realizing an -independence in the new country that was being opened.</p> - -<p>It will be remembered that, for about a hundred -years after its charter had been granted, the Hudson’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_302">302</a></span> -Bay Company made little effort to extend into the -interior the trading-posts which it, alone, had the privilege -of establishing on the shores of the Hudson’s -Bay and its tributary rivers. True, trading-posts had -been established in the interior, but chiefly by the -French traders, who had practically possessed the country -until the close of the French and Indian War. -Then came the founding of the Northwest Fur Company -of Canada, before long a formidable rival to the Hudson’s -Bay Company. It was conducted on the wiser plan -of giving each one of its employees the chance to rise and -become a partner, provided only his success justified -the promotion. The Hudson’s Bay Company, on the -other hand, hired its men and paid them regularly, but -offered no inducements to extra exertion on the part -of its officers. The result could not be doubtful; the -new company pressed the old one hard; and consolidation -at length took place between the two.</p> - -<p>In the early part of the last century, John Jacob -Astor, whose fur trade with the interior had not been -altogether satisfactory, determined to explore the northwest -coast, and proposed to the Northwest Company -to join him in establishing a trading-post on the Columbia -River. The proposition was declined. Nevertheless, -in 1809, Astor formed the Pacific Fur Company, -and needing able and experienced traders, he induced -a number of men connected with the Northwest Company -to leave that establishment and join him. Among -these were Alexander M’Kay, who had been a companion -of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in earlier days.</p> - -<div id="ip_302" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_302.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>ASTORIA IN 1813.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From Franchere’s <cite>Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of America</cite>.</p></div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_303">303</a></span> -Astor’s plan was to establish posts on the north-west -coast, to which each year a vessel should carry -goods for the Indian trade, and having discharged her -cargo at the mouth of the Columbia River, should take -on board the furs of the year’s trade, and thence proceed -to China; selling her furs there, she should load with -the products of that country and return to New York.</p> - -<p>The first vessel fitted out by the Pacific Fur Company -was the ill-fated “Tonquin,” commanded by Captain -Jonathan Thorn. She sailed from New York in 1810, -with a number of partners, clerks, and artisans, and -with a large cargo of goods for the Indian trade; and -about the same time a party under W. P. Hunt and -Donald Mackenzie left St. Louis to cross the continent -to the mouth of the Columbia.</p> - -<p>The “Beaver” was the next of these annual ships to -sail. She rounded the Horn, and touched at the Sandwich -Islands, where a number of the natives were -shipped as laborers for the post, and on the 8th of -May the ship’s company found themselves opposite the -mouth of the Columbia River. They crossed the bar -without accident and, after a voyage of six months -and twenty-two days, cast anchor in Baker’s Bay.</p> - -<p>The accounts which they received from their friends -at Astoria were very discouraging. There had been -frequent quarrels between the captain of the “Tonquin” -and his passengers. The captain was a man of great -daring, but harsh and arbitrary in manner, and very -ready to quarrel with his British passengers. His obstinacy -resulted in the loss of several men at the mouth<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_304">304</a></span> -of the Columbia; and the chief mate of the vessel, in -consequence of a dispute with the captain, left her, and -obtained an assignment to command a little schooner -built by the company. The “Tonquin,” with M’Kay -and Lewis, one of the clerks on board, dropped down to -the mouth of the Columbia and proceeded northward, -to go as far as Cooke’s River, on a trading excursion.</p> - -<p>In the meantime, the overland parties, under the -command of Mackenzie, M’Lellan, Hunt, and Crooks, -after great suffering, reached the fort.</p> - -<p>The fate of the “Tonquin” was learned in the month -of August, 1811, from a party of Indians from Gray’s -Harbor. They came to the Columbia for fishing, and -told the Chinooks that the “Tonquin” had been cut off -by one of the northern tribes, and every soul massacred. -This is what seems to have happened. The -“Tonquin,” somewhere in the neighborhood of Nootka, -cast anchor, and M’Kay began to trade with the natives, -who were perfectly willing to part with their furs. One -of the principal men, however, having been detected -in some small theft, was struck by the captain, and in -revenge the Indians formed a conspiracy to take possession -of the vessel. The interpreter learned of this, -and told M’Kay, who warned the captain of the intended -attack; but he only laughed at the information, -and made no preparations for it. The Indians continued -to visit the ship, and without arms. The day -before the vessel was to leave, two large canoes, each -containing about twenty men, appeared alongside. -They had some furs in their canoes and were allowed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_305">305</a></span> -to come on board. Soon three more canoes followed; -and the officers of the watch, seeing that a number of -others were leaving the shore, warned Captain Thorn -of the circumstances. He immediately came on the -quarter-deck, accompanied by Mr. M’Kay and the -interpreter. The latter, on observing that they all -wore short cloaks or mantles of skin, which was by no -means a general custom, at once knew their designs -were hostile and told Mr. M’Kay of his suspicions. -That gentleman immediately apprised Captain Thorn of -the circumstances, and begged him to lose no time in -clearing the ship of intruders. This caution was, however, -treated with contempt by the captain, who remarked, -that with the arms they had on board they -would be more than a match for three times the number. -The sailors in the meantime had all come on the deck, -which was crowded with Indians, who completely -blocked up the passages, and obstructed the men in the -performance of their various duties. The captain requested -them to retire, to which they paid no attention. -He then told them he was about going to sea, and had -given orders to the men to raise the anchor; that he -hoped they would go away quietly; but if they refused, -he should be compelled to force their departure. He -had scarcely finished when, at a signal given by one of -the chiefs, a loud and frightful yell was heard from the -assembled savages, who commenced a sudden and simultaneous -attack on the officers and crew with knives, -bludgeons, and short sabres which they had concealed -under their robes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_306">306</a></span> -“M’Kay was one of the first attacked. One Indian -gave him a severe blow with a bludgeon, which partially -stunned him; upon which he was seized by five -or six others, who threw him overboard into a canoe -alongside, where he quickly recovered and was allowed -to remain for some time uninjured.</p> - -<p>“Captain Thorn made an ineffectual attempt to reach -the cabin for his firearms, but was overpowered by -numbers. His only weapon was a jack-knife, with -which he killed four of his savage assailants by ripping -up their bellies, and mutilated several others. Covered -with wounds, and exhausted from the loss of blood, he -rested himself for a moment by leaning on the tiller -wheel, when he received a dreadful blow from a weapon -called a pautumaugan, on the back part of the head, -which felled him to the deck. The death-dealing knife -fell from his hand, and his savage butchers, after extinguishing -the few sparks of life that still remained, -threw his mangled body overboard.</p> - -<p>“On seeing the captain’s fate, our informant, who -was close to him, and who had hitherto escaped uninjured, -jumped into the water and was taken into a -canoe by some women, who partially covered his body -with mats. He states that the original intention of -the enemy was to detain Mr. M’Kay a prisoner, and -after securing the vessel to give him his liberty, on -obtaining a ransom from Astoria. But on finding the -resistance made by the captain and crew, the former of -whom had killed one of their principal chiefs, their -love of gain gave way to revenge, and they resolved to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_307">307</a></span> -destroy him. The last time the ill-fated gentleman -was seen, his head was hanging over the side of a canoe, -and three savages, armed with pautumaugans, were -battering out his brains.</p> - -<p>“In the meantime the devoted crew, who had maintained -the unequal conflict with unparalleled bravery, -became gradually overpowered. Three of them, John -Anderson, the boatswain; John Weekes, the carpenter; -[and] Stephen Weekes, who had narrowly escaped at the -Columbia, succeeded after a desperate struggle in gaining -possession of the cabin, the entrance to which was -securely fastened inside. The Indians now became -more cautious, for they well knew there were plenty -of firearms below; and they had already experienced -enough of the prowess of the three men while on deck, -and armed only with hand-spikes, to dread approaching -them while they had more mortal weapons at their -command.</p> - -<p>“Anderson and his two companions seeing their commander -and the crew dead and dying about them, and -that no hope of escape remained, and feeling, moreover, -the uselessness of any further opposition, determined -on taking a terrible revenge. Two of them, therefore, -set about laying a train to the powder magazine, while -the third addressed some Indians from the windows, -who were in canoes, and gave them to understand that -if they were permitted to depart unmolested in one of -the ship’s boats they would give them quiet possession -of the vessel without firing a shot; stipulating, however, -that no canoe should remain near them while<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_308">308</a></span> -getting into the boat. The anxiety of the barbarians -to obtain possession of the plunder, and their disinclination -to risk any more lives, induced them to embrace -this proposition with eagerness, and the pinnace -was immediately brought astern. The three heroes -having by this time perfected their dreadful arrangements, -and ascertained that no Indian was watching -them, gradually lowered themselves from the cabin -windows into the boat; and having fired the train, -quickly pushed off toward the mouth of the harbor, no -obstacle being interposed to prevent their departure.</p> - -<p>“Hundreds of the enemy now rushed on deck to -seize the long-expected prize, shouting yells of victory; -but their triumph was of short duration. Just as they -had burst open the cabin door, an explosion took place, -which, in an instant, hurled upward of two hundred -savages into eternity, and dreadfully injured as many -more. The interpreter, who had by this time reached -land, states he saw many mutilated bodies floating near -the beach, while heads, arms and legs, together with -fragments of the ship, were thrown to a considerable -distance on the shore.</p> - -<p>“The first impression of the survivors was, that the -Master of Life had sent forth the Evil Spirit from the -waters to punish them for their cruelty to the white -people. This belief, joined to the consternation occasioned -by the shock, and the reproaches and lamentations -of the wives and other relatives of the sufferers, -paralyzed for a time the exertions of the savages and -favored the attempt of Anderson and his brave comrades<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_309">309</a></span> -to escape. They rowed hard for the mouth of -the harbor with the intention, as is supposed, of coasting -along the shore to the Columbia; but after passing -the bar, a head-wind and flowing tide drove them back -and compelled them to land late at night in a small cove, -where they fancied themselves free from danger, and -where, weak from the loss of blood and the harassing -exertions of the day, they fell into a profound sleep.” -Here they were captured, and a little later killed.</p> - -<p>Such is Cox’s account of the destruction of the -“Tonquin,” obtained, we may presume, from the interpreter. -Other accounts of the same event agree with -it in its main facts, though there is some question as -to who it was who blew up the ship, some narrators -believing that it was Stephen Weekes, while others -think that it was Lewis, the clerk.</p> - -<p>As if the spirits of the newly arrived traders had not -been sufficiently damped by the story of the “Tonquin,” -an added misfortune followed the next day. -This was the return of one of the parties that had -started overland, some to trade, others to carry despatches -to the east. These men had been driven back -by an encounter with Indians, and after great difficulties -and much suffering, reached the post again.</p> - -<p>On the 28th of June, 1812, a party of nearly a hundred -men, well supplied with trade goods, started in -canoes up the Columbia. They went well prepared to -meet the Indians, each man carrying a musket and forty -rounds of ball cartridges, and each also wearing leathern -armor, “a kind of shirt made out of the skin of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_310">310</a></span> -elk, which reached from the neck to the knees. It was -perfectly arrow-proof, and at eighty or ninety yards -impenetrable by a musket bullet. Besides the muskets, -numbers had daggers, short swords, and pistols; and -when armed cap-à-pie we presented a formidable appearance.” -Metal armor, of course, was unknown to -the Indians, but shields and body armor were common -to many tribes. This was of several kinds, sometimes -made of rows of overlapping plates of ivory or bone, -of wood in the form of slats or rods, held in place by -hide, or of coats, helmets, and so on, of hardened hide. -Between 1840 and 1850 trappers on the prairie sometimes -hung about their necks, to protect the front of -their bodies, the hides of mule-deer dressed with the -hair on. These skins, when wet, would stop an arrow. -After the coming of the white men, a few suits, or portions -of suits, of armor came into possession of one or -more of the plains tribes, were highly valued by them, -used for a long time, and gave origin to a personal -name now common among the plains tribes—Iron Shirt.</p> - -<p>At the portage every precaution was taken to guard -against surprises. Five officers were stationed at each -end of the portage, and several others, with twenty-five -men, were scattered along it at short distances -from one another. This was especially necessary at -the foot of the first rapids, where the portage was three -or four miles long, the path narrow and dangerous, and -in some places obstructed.</p> - -<p>The ascent of the river, over falls and rapids, was -very laborious. The boats had to be dragged up part<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_311">311</a></span> -of the way, and the labor was hard and long-continued. -A little negligence by some of the men who were at the -upper end of the portage resulted in a small trouble, for, -while they wandered a short distance from the goods, -two Indians endeavored to carry off an entire bale. -It was too heavy for them, and they were about to open -and carry away the contents, when two men, carrying -burdens, arrived and gave the alarm. The Indians -attacked the men, but the disturbance called back the -officers, and the Indians fled. “A shot was fired at -them by our best marksman, who was told merely to -wing one, which he did with great skill, by breaking his -left arm, at upward of a hundred yards distance. The -fellow gave a dreadful shout on receiving the ball, but -still continued his flight with his comrade, until we lost -sight of them.”</p> - -<p>Keeping on up the rapids, they saw other Indians, -some of whom were on horseback, and much more attractive -to the eye than the canoe Indians seen farther -down the river. From the fishing Indians they purchased -salmon in considerable numbers.</p> - -<p>Before this they had reached the high, volcanic, treeless -country, and had found rattlesnakes; and here -an odd incident happened to one of the men, named -La Course, which might have been fatal. Cox says: -“This man had stretched himself on the ground, after -the fatigue of the day, with his head resting on a small -package of goods, and quickly fell asleep. While in -this situation I passed him, and was almost petrified at -seeing a large rattlesnake moving from his side to his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_312">312</a></span> -left breast. My first impulse was to alarm La Course; -but an old Canadian whom I had beckoned to the spot -requested me to make no noise, alleging it would merely -cross the body and go away. He was mistaken, for on -reaching the man’s shoulder, the serpent deliberately -coiled itself, but did not appear to meditate an attack. -Having made signs to several others, who joined us, I -was determined that two men should advance a little -in front to divert the attention of the snake, while one -should approach La Course behind, and with a long -stick endeavor to remove it from his body. The snake, -on observing the men advance in front, instantly raised -its head, darted out its forked tongue, and shook its -rattles; all indications of anger. Every one was now -in a state of feverish agitation as to the fate of poor La -Course, who still lay slumbering, unconscious of his -danger; when the man behind, who had procured a -stick seven feet in length, suddenly placed one end of -it under the coiled reptile, and succeeded in pitching -it upwards of ten feet from the man’s body. A shout -of joy was the first intimation La Course received of his -wonderful escape, while in the meantime the man with -the stick pursued the snake, which he killed. It was -three feet six inches long.”</p> - -<p>Toward the end of July the party camped at the -mouth of the Walla Walla River, and met a number of -Indians of that tribe. Twenty horses were purchased -for Robert Stewart’s party, and its eleven members -left the next day for St. Louis. The Walla Wallas -were kind and gentle, yet dignified; as were also the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_313">313</a></span> -Indians of the Pierced-Nose tribe, then called by the -French Les Nez Percés, a name which they still retain. -Their houses were large; some square, others oblong, -and some conical; they were covered with mats fixed -on poles, and varied from twenty to seventy feet in -length. These people seemed well to do, and owned -many horses, twenty-five of which the traders bought; -and from this time on some of them proceeded by land, -while the others dragged, paddled, or poled the canoes -up the stream. It was at a Pierced-Nose village, at no -very great distance from the Columbia, on Lewis River, -that the party left their boats and canoes, cacheing them -in the willow brush, and leaving them in charge of the -chief. Here they secured about fifty horses for pack -animals, and a few for riding, but not nearly enough to -give a horse to each man. Travelling along up the -stream, the thirty-two men who were in Cox’s company -started for the country of the Spokanes. They had the -usual incidents of travel—trouble with pack-horses, -lack of grass for their animals, often lack of water for -themselves; but before they had gone very far an adventure -happened to the author which made it impossible -for him to chronicle the doings of his party.</p> - -<p>On the 17th of August they stopped for noon, and -turned their horses out to graze in very good feed. -Cox went apart some distance, and after feasting on -the fruit that grew here, lay down and went to sleep. -When he awoke, the sun was low and no sound was to -be heard. His companions had vanished. It afterward -appeared that they had started in three sections,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_314">314</a></span> -at a little distance from one another, and that each -division of the command supposed Cox to be with one -of the other divisions. It was not until toward night -that his absence was discovered; and in the meantime -he had awakened and set off in pursuit of the party, -but soon lost the trail. He was lightly clad in a shirt -and pair of cotton trousers and moccasins. He had -no arms, no knife, no means of making a fire. The -first night out he plucked a quantity of grass, covered -himself with that, and slept through the night. On -the following day he journeyed eastward, and late in -the evening saw, only a mile from him, two horsemen -rapidly riding to the east. They were near enough so -that he could see that they belonged to his party. He -raced after them, shouted, waved his shirt, and did -everything possible to attract their attention, but they -did not see him. By this time his moccasins had -absolutely gone to pieces, and this night the labor of -pulling the grass cut his hands. It was two days since -he had eaten. Birds and deer were numerous, and -close to him fish were seen in the waters, but he could -not catch them. That night, however, he found an -abundant supply of cherries, which gave him a hearty -supper; but the howling of wolves and “growling of -bears” kept him awake much of the night. The following -day he looked for horse tracks, and at night returned -to the place where he had slept before. His -feet were now so much lacerated by prickly-pears and -the stones over which he had walked, that he was -obliged to make bandages for them from the legs of his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_315">315</a></span> -trousers. His fear of wolves and bears grew; and perhaps -the man’s weak condition tempted the animals, -for he tells us that they came quite close to him. As he -wandered on, he occasionally saw horse tracks, but -always old, yet showing that there were people in the -country. On the night of the 25th, he found no water, -and as he was about to lie down to sleep, he found that -he was surrounded by snakes of every kind. “This was -a peculiarly, soul-trying moment,” he tells us. “I had -tasted no fruit since the morning before, and after a -painful day’s march under a burning sun, could not -procure a drop of water to allay my feverish thirst. I -was surrounded by a murderous brood of serpents, and -ferocious beasts of prey; and without even the consolation -of knowing when such misery might have a -probable termination. I might truly say with the royal -psalmist that ‘the snares of death compassed me round -about.’” But he lived through it. All the next day -he travelled without water, and when at night he -came to a stream, he was so weak that he fell into it, -and was almost carried away, but caught himself by -an overhanging bough and regained the shore. Here -he found food and ate it eagerly. “On looking about -for a place to sleep, I observed lying on the ground the -hollow trunk of a large pine, which had been destroyed -by lightning. I retreated into the cavity; and having -covered myself completely with large pieces of loose -bark, quickly fell asleep. My repose was not of long -duration; for at the end of about two hours I was -awakened by the growling of a bear, which had removed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_316">316</a></span> -part of the bark covering and was leaning over -me with his snout, hesitating as to the means he should -adopt to dislodge me; the narrow limits of the trunk -which confined my body prevented him from making -the attack with advantage. I instantly sprang up, -seized my stick, and uttered a loud cry, which startled -him, and caused him to recede a few steps; when he -stopped and turned about apparently doubtful whether -he would commence an attack. He determined on an -assault; but feeling that I had not sufficient strength -to meet such an unequal enemy, I thought it prudent -to retreat, and accordingly scrambled up an adjoining -tree. My flight gave fresh impulse to his courage, and -he commenced ascending after me. I succeeded, however, -in gaining a branch, which gave me a decided -advantage over him; and from which I was enabled -to annoy his muzzle and claws in such a manner with -my stick as effectually to check his progress. After -scraping the bark some time with rage and disappointment, -he gave up the task, and retired to my late dormitory, -of which he took possession. The fear of falling -off, in case I was overcome by sleep, induced me to -make several attempts to descend; but each attempt -aroused my ursine sentinel; and, after many ineffectual -efforts, I was obliged to remain there during the rest of -the night. I fixed myself in that part of the trunk from -which the principal grand branches forked, and which -prevented me from falling during my fitful slumbers. -A little after sunrise, the bear quitted the trunk, shook -himself, ‘cast a longing, lingering look’ toward me, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_317">317</a></span> -slowly disappeared in search of his morning repast. -After waiting some time, apprehensive of his return, I -descended and resumed my journey through the woods.”</p> - -<p>A few hours later Cox came upon a well-beaten horse-trail, -with fresh tracks both of hoofs and human feet. -Following this he came that evening to a spot where -the party had camped the preceding night; and about -a large fire which was still burning found the half-picked -bones of grouse and ducks, on which he made -a hearty meal, the first flesh he had tasted in a long -time. For two days more he followed the trail, on the -second day finding fruit. The tracks grew constantly -fresher, but the bandages of his feet were constantly -wearing out, and, with the exception of his shirt, he -was almost naked. At evening he came to a fork in -the trail, with fresh tracks on both branches. One led -up a hill, the other into a valley. Cox took the upper -one, but as it was growing dark, feared that he might -not find water at night, and turned back and followed -the trail into the valley. Before he had gone far he -thought he heard the neighing of a horse, and hurrying -onward, before long he saw several horses feeding in a -meadow on the other side of a stream. He crossed, and -one of the horses approached him, and to the weak and -starving man the good beast looked like a real friend. -A little farther on he saw smoke, and then two women -appeared, who at sight of him fled to a shelter at the -farther end of the meadow. From this at once emerged -two men, who came running toward him in the most -friendly manner. They carried him in their arms to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_318">318</a></span> -their home; washed and dressed his wounds, roasted -some roots and boiled salmon for him. In fact, they -treated him as if he had been a relation rather than a -stranger. The men talked with him in signs, and gave -him to understand that they knew who he was, and that -he had been lost and that they with other Indians and -white men had been searching for him. To a man who -had been wandering in the desert for fourteen days, the -sight of these Indians, and the harsh, guttural sounds -by which they expressed their thoughts, were perfectly -delightful. Full, warm, and clad, for the first time in -two weeks, he slept that night as he had never slept -before.</p> - -<p>The next day the men took him in a canoe across the -Cœur d’Alene River, and having given him deer-skin -clothing, they set off on horseback to the eastward.</p> - -<p>After seven hours they came to where some of the -Canadians were at work getting wood. François -Gardepie joined them just before they reached the -tents, and taking Cox for an Indian, spoke to him. It -was not until he replied in French that he recognized -him, and there was much rejoicing in all the camp when -he joined his people. The party had supposed that he -had long perished; for considering his youth and his -inexperience in the Indian country, the oldest voyageurs -had given him up after the sixth day.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_319">319</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX<br /> - -<span class="subhead">ROSS COX</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">It</span> was October 17, the anniversary of the sailing -from New York of the “Beaver,” that Cox and -Farnham set out on their trading expedition to -the Flatheads, and on the 10th of November they -reached the small village of these people. They were -charmed with their frank and hospitable reception, and -with the superiority in cleanliness of these Indians over -other tribes that they had seen. They determined to -remain here for a while, and began the building of a -log house in which to winter. Meantime the Indians -kept coming in, and they made quite a trade in beaver. -In December, Cox, having had a good canoe built of -cedar planks, took leave of Farnham, and with six -men set out to descend the river to Spokane, which was -reached about New Year’s day.</p> - -<p>During a trip to the Flatheads, Cox witnessed an extraordinary -display of fortitude by a Blackfoot prisoner -whom they were torturing. It is a graphic picture of -the savage cruelty of the savage man, and is far too -horrible to print. An effort was made by the traders<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_320">320</a></span> -to put an end to these tortures, and the Flatheads were -induced to set free, and send away to their people, a -number of Blackfeet women. To these prisoners, now -being set free, it was explained that torture between -the tribes ought to cease, and as they were turned loose -unharmed, it was hoped that they would persuade -their people on the prairies to abstain in future from -torturing Flathead captives. Cox is enthusiastic about -the attractiveness of the Flatheads. It was here that -he was successfully treated for rheumatism by an old -Indian doctor; the cure being a morning bath in the -river, now frozen over, through a hole in the ice, followed -by rubbing of the affected parts by the old doctor. -After twenty-five days of the treatment the trouble had -entirely disappeared.</p> - -<p>In August, 1814, a party of sixty men, including proprietors -and clerks, left Fort George to go up the river -with trade goods. On the way they met some Indians, -who attempted to steal various small articles, and were -warned to stop it, but paid no attention to the orders. -Three caught in the act of pilfering were flogged. At -night the party was attacked by Indians, and a Canadian -was killed. There were many narrow escapes. Passing -up the river they met with the Walla Wallas, who -received them in their usual friendly way. A little later -the party separated, the division to which Cox was -assigned going to Spokane House, where the Indians, -who had expended all their ammunition, received them -with great joy. An amusing sketch is given of the personality -and character of the Scotchman, McDonald,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_321">321</a></span> -celebrated for his great size, his flaming red hair, and -his daring bravery. A small tribe of Indians were -camped between an immense fall in the Columbia, -known as La Chaudière, and Spokane House; their -chief was a philosopher, frugal, thrifty, opposed to -gambling, and so in many respects different from the -average Indian.</p> - -<p>In October the various parties returned to Fort -George with the proceeds of their trade, and on the -18th of November again set out for the interior. Not -far above the mouth of the Walla Walla they met a -number of Indians coming down. They stopped the -first canoes to ask for tobacco, and as they passed the -last ones, endeavored to take from them some bales -of goods. The arms of the canoemen were not within -reach, but each of the proprietors or clerks carried his -arms. Every effort was made to avoid open hostilities. -The canoemen tried to beat the Indians off with their -paddles, and the Indians had not yet attempted to use -their arms. When a tall Indian refused to let go the -bale of goods that he was trying to take from McDonald’s -canoe, M’Kay struck him with the butt end of his -gun, and obliged him to drop the bale. The Indian instantly -placed an arrow on his bow, which he aimed at -McDonald, who quickly stretched forth his arm, seized -the arrow, broke it to pieces, and threw them into the -Indian’s face. The Indian, by this time very angry, -had ordered his canoe to push off, and was just about -to shoot an arrow at McDonald when M’Kay fired and -killed him. His two companions were about to use<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_322">322</a></span> -their bows, but McDonald, who had a double-barrelled -gun, shot them both, killing one and severely wounding -the other. The fight was on, but the Indians threw -themselves in the bottom of their canoes out of sight, -and the vessels soon drifted down the river, and out of -gunshot. The traders at once went ashore and armed -themselves. The Indians lurked about and shot at -them, but without effect. Embarking, the white men -paddled to a narrow island in the river, built breastworks, -and prepared for defence. The next day the -wind blew hard, and they were obliged to pass the -night on the island. Meantime the Indians were signaling, -and canoes could be heard crossing and recrossing -the river. The spirits of the white men were low, and -they believed that they were likely all to be killed. The -next day the traders sent out a flag of truce to the enemy, -and asked for a talk, being determined to pay the relatives -of the dead for the loss, rather than to have any -fighting. The Indians refused this, however, and declared -that two white men must be delivered to them -to be treated as they thought best. One of these white -men, it was explained, must be McDonald. The offers -made by the traders had been sufficiently liberal, but -the sentiment of the savages seemed to be that these -offers must be refused, and that white men must be -killed to accompany the dead Indians on their way to -the home of the dead. After a heated discussion, it -became evident that there was little hope of a compromise -or of peace. One by one the Indians sulkily drew -away from the council and joined their friends who were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_323">323</a></span> -sitting at a distance behind them. Just before the conference -was over, however, it was interrupted by the arrival -of a dozen mounted Indians, who dashed into the -space between the two parties, and halted there. These -men were under the leadership of a young chief whose -courage and wisdom was respected by all the Indians of -the country. He made a strong plea for a peaceful settlement -of the difficulty, finally declaring that no one -of the Indians should dare to attack the whites. This -speech put a different look on matters, and the Indians -presently consented to the proposed compromise, and -smoked with the traders. The wounded and the relatives -of the dead proved quite willing to accept the payments -offered, and friendly relations were renewed.</p> - -<p>In May, 1816, the author found himself once more -at Okinagan, and this time occupying the chief position -there. He at once set to work to rebuild the post, -where he spent the summer. The point between the -Okinagan River and the Columbia, where the trading -post was built, was absolutely free from rattlesnakes, -although the surrounding country abounded with them. -The snakes were frequently eaten by the Canadians, -who skinned them as eels are skinned, and then spitted -them on a stick run through the body, and roasted them -before a fire. Cox tells a curious story of the treatment -by an old Indian of a young woman supposed to have -consumption. The treatment consisted in killing a dog -and placing the foot and leg of the patient within the -newly killed carcass until the flesh became cold. They -were then taken out and bandaged with warm flannel.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_324">324</a></span> -Besides this, she took daily a small quantity of bark in -a glass of port-wine. The result was that her condition -greatly improved; she regained her appetite, and -in the autumn was strong enough to travel across the -mountains with her husband. The following summer -Cox met her at Rainy Lake in the full enjoyment of -health. Cox also tells of a white man, absolutely dying -of a decline, who was cured by being placed at short -intervals in the body of a newly killed horse. After two -treatments of this kind, at intervals of a few days, he -began to regain his strength, and by adhering to simple -and careful living, was finally restored to his ordinary -health.</p> - -<p>Wolves were very abundant here, and were very -troublesome to the horses. “These destructive animals -annually destroy numbers of horses,” Cox writes, “particularly -during the winter season, when the latter get -entangled in the snow, in which situation they become -an easy prey to their light-footed pursuers, ten or fifteen -of which will often fasten on one animal, and with their -long fangs in a few minutes separate the head from the -body. If, however, the horses are not prevented from -using their legs, they sometimes punish the enemy severely; -as an instance of this, I saw one morning the -bodies of two of our horses which had been killed the -night before, and around were lying eight dead and -maimed wolves; some with their brains scattered about, -and others with their limbs and ribs broken by the hoofs -of the furious animals in their vain attempts to escape -from their sanguinary assailants.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_325">325</a></span> -“While I was at Spokane I went occasionally to the -horse prairie, which is nearly surrounded by partially -wooded hills, for the purpose of watching the manœuvres -of the wolves in their combined attacks. The -first announcement of their approach was a few shrill -currish barks at intervals, like the outpost firing of -skirmishing parties. These were answered by similar -barking from an opposite direction, until the sounds -gradually approximated, and at length ceased on the -junction of the different parties. We prepared our -guns, and concealed ourselves behind a thick cover. -In the meantime, the horses, sensible of the approaching -danger, began to paw the ground, snort, toss up -their heads, look wildly about them, and exhibit all the -symptoms of fear. One or two stallions took the lead, -and appeared to await with a degree of comparative -composure for the appearance of the enemy.</p> - -<p>“The allies at length entered the field in a semi-circular -form, with their flanks extended for the evident -purpose of surrounding their prey. They were between -two and three hundred strong. The horses, on -observing their movement, knew from experience its -object, and dreading to encounter so numerous a force, -instantly turned around and galloped off in a contrary -direction. Their flight was the signal for the wolves -to advance; and immediately uttering a simultaneous -yell, they charged after the fugitives, still preserving -their crescent form. Two or three of the horses, which -were not in the best condition, were quickly overtaken by -the advanced guard of the enemy. The former, finding<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_326">326</a></span> -themselves unable to keep up with the band, commenced -kicking at their pursuers, several of which received -some severe blows; but these being reinforced by -others, they would have shortly despatched the horses, -had we not just in time emerged from our place of concealment -and discharged a volley at the enemy’s center, -by which a few were brought down. The whole battalion -instantly wheeled about and fled toward the hills -in the utmost disorder; while the horses, on hearing -the fire, changed their course, and galloped up to us. -Our appearance saved several of them from the fangs -of their foes; and by their neighing they seemed to express -their joy and gratitude at our timely interference.”</p> - -<p>In portions of the country inhabited by the Walla -Wallas, Nez Percés, and Shoshones, wild horses were at -this time very abundant. Sometimes from seven hundred -to a thousand were seen in a band, and persons -who had crossed the continent by the Missouri route -told Cox that in the Snake Indian country bands varying -from three to four thousand were frequently seen. -The Spaniards at San Francisco informed the traders -of the Northwest Company that in the year 1812 they -were obliged to kill upward of thirty thousand horses -in California in order to preserve sufficient grass for the -buffalo. Just what is meant by California in this connection -is uncertain, since it is not known that the -buffalo were ever found in the California of modern -times.</p> - -<p>In his description of the horses of the country, Cox -tells of a ride of seventy-two miles which he made between<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_327">327</a></span> -twelve o’clock in the morning and soon after -dark, to outstrip some rival traders who were on their -way to the Flatheads. The Flatheads were out of tobacco, -but Farnham, who was in charge of the party, -felt sure that if a supply of this commodity were brought -them at once, they would promise their skins to him. -Cox, riding a splendid horse, known as Le Bleu, -reached Farnham two hours in advance of his rivals, -and secured the trade.</p> - -<p>In the summer of 1816 Cox determined to abandon -Indian trading, and applied to the proprietors for leave, -which was granted with regret. Nevertheless, he wintered -at Okinagan.</p> - -<p>In April, 1817, Cox joined a party of eighty-six men -who embarked in two barges and nine canoes from -Fort George to ascend the Columbia. They continued -up the river with various adventures, seeing Indians -constantly, but having no trouble with them, and on the -seventeenth day twenty-three of the party who were to -cross the Rocky Mountains to the plains left the loaded -canoes and continued up the Columbia, past Okinagan, -the mouth of the Spokane River, to Great Kettle Falls. -Continuing, they passed through the lakes on the Columbia. -The river grew narrower and narrower, and -the current swifter, and at length they reached the -Rocky Mountain portage, where they were to leave -their canoes. The hard work done on the trip had so -far exhausted many of the men, that they were now -practically unable to work; and seven men, six Canadians -and an Englishman, were sent back in the best<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_328">328</a></span> -canoe to Spokane House. Only one of them reached -there alive, having been found by two Indians on the -borders of the upper lake, and by them transported to -Spokane House. Now came an overland journey on -foot, where the nine remaining men were obliged to -carry loads of about ninety pounds each. The journey -was very difficult, over steep mountains, across rapid -streams, and through deep snow fields. On the 31st of -May they reached two small lakes on the summit of the -mountains, at which they encamped. From these lakes -a stream joins a branch of the Columbia River, while -another, called Rocky Mountain River, empties into -Peace River, and so takes its way to the Arctic Ocean.</p> - -<p>The next day they reached a beautiful meadow -ground, where five of the company’s horses were found -grazing, and their pack saddles were placed conspicuously -near a large fire which was still burning. The -animals had been sent up from Rocky Mountain House -to meet them.</p> - -<p>The next day, in crossing the Rocky Mountain River, -a series of accidents happened, by which the first raft -made was lost, and the second got away, carrying several -men with it, the result being that the party was now -separated. From this time on until they reached Rocky -Mountain House, they did not get together, and there -was some suffering from hunger and cold. Nor was -their situation much better at Rocky Mountain House, -for they were unable there to obtain provisions, the -people here being themselves on short allowance. On -the 7th of June they left Rocky Mountain House, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_329">329</a></span> -soon entered the Athabasca River, and followed it down -until they reached Elk River, which they ascended, -and at last met Alexander Stewart and the Slave Lake -brigade. From here they proceeded eastward, down -the Beaver River to Isle à la Crosse, reached the English -River, Cumberland House, and the Saskatchewan, -and thence went through Lake Winepic to Fort Alexander -and by way of Rat Portage to Rainy Lake and -Fort William.</p> - -<p>From here eastward their way led through the more -or less settled country occupied largely by Canadian -farmers. The party continued eastward, until on -September 19, five months and three days after leaving -the Pacific Ocean, Cox reached Montreal, and his -journeyings were at an end.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_330">330</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI<br /> - -<span class="subhead">THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap al"><span class="smcap1">At</span> the end of the sixteenth and during the seventeenth -century a line of Spanish settlements ran -from Mexico northward along the Rocky Mountains, -terminating in the important town of Taos. To -the north, north-east, and north-west of this town were -other settlements, occupied by the Spaniards and their -descendants, and the streams and geographical features -of the country bore Spanish names—almost up to the -headwaters of the Rio Grande del Norte. North of -the Arkansas there was a change of tongue, and the -names were English, or French, given much later by -American trappers who had pushed westward, or by -French Canadians and Creoles, who were early voyageurs -over the plains.</p> - -<p>Though Taos was an important place, it did not -equal, either in size or wealth, the town of Santa Fé.</p> - -<p>The first settlements of what is now New Mexico -were made about the end of the sixteenth century, -and a colony was established on the Rio del Norte, in -New Mexico. Agriculture was practised, and mines -were discovered and worked. The Spaniards, in their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_331">331</a></span> -greed for precious metals, made slaves of the docile -Indians, and forced them to labor in the mines, under -circumstances of the greatest severity and hardship. -Almost a hundred years later, in August, 1680, this ill -treatment caused the insurrection of the Pueblos, which -put an end to many a flourishing Spanish settlement, -and, temporarily, to the country’s development. For -a time the Spaniards were driven out, but it was for -a time only; a little later they returned, resubdued -the country, and by the close of the century were -stronger than ever. Nevertheless, the Pueblo revolt -was not without its good effect, and during the eighteenth -century the Indians were far better treated than -they had been before.</p> - -<p>In the year 1806, Captain Zebulon M. Pike crossed -the plains and reached the city of Santa Fé. His return -told the inhabitants of the farther west of a country -beyond the plains where there were towns and people -who would purchase goods brought to them. Previous -to this, a merchant of Kaskaskia, named Morrison, -had sent a French Creole named La Lande up the -Platte River, directing him to go to Santa Fé to trade; -but La Lande, though he reached that city, never returned, -nor accounted to his employer for the goods -that were intrusted to him. James Pursley, an American, -was perhaps the second man to cross these plains, -and reach the Spanish settlements. When Captain -Pike returned, the news of these settlements, hitherto -unknown, created a great interest throughout the slowly -advancing frontier.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_332">332</a></span> -Expeditions went out to Santa Fé in 1812, but the -traders were suspected by the New Mexicans of being -spies, their goods were confiscated, and they themselves -imprisoned and detained for years, some of them returning -to the United States in 1821. After this, other -parties went out, and the trading which they did with -the Spaniards was successful and profitable. More and -more expeditions set forth, often manned by people who -were entirely ignorant of the country through which -they were to pass, and of the hardships which they were -to face. Some of these died from starvation or thirst, -or, at the very least, suffered terribly, and often were -unsuccessful, but about 1822 the trade with Santa Fé -became established. The distance from the American -settlements across the plains to Santa Fé was hardly -half that from Vera Cruz to Santa Fé, and there was -great profit in the trade; but it was not without its -dangers. Indians were constantly met with, and many -of the traders did not understand how to treat them. -Some traders were robbed; others, resisting harshly -and sometimes killing a savage, were attacked, robbed -of their animals, and occasionally lost a man.</p> - -<p>Among the interesting records of the plains of these -early times is Josiah Gregg’s <cite>Commerce of the Prairies, -or the Journal of a Santa Fé Trader, During Eight -Expeditions Across the Great Western Prairies</cite>.</p> - -<p>Gregg, an invalid, made his first trip across the plains -on the advice of his physician. The effect of his -journey was to re-establish his health and to beget in -him a passion for prairie life. He soon became interested,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_333">333</a></span> -as a proprietor, in the Santa Fé trade, and for -eight successive years continued to follow this business. -The period covered by his volumes is from 1831 to -1840, during which time the trade was at its height.</p> - -<p>The caravan with which Gregg started, set out with -near a hundred wagons, of which one-half were hauled -by oxen and the remainder by mules. The very night -that they left Council Grove their cattle stampeded, but -being corralled within the circle of wagons, did not -escape.</p> - -<p>Having a large company, it was natural that there -should be among it a number of people who were constantly -seeing dangers that did not exist. They had -been out but a short time when, “Alarms now began to -accumulate more rapidly upon us. A couple of persons -had a few days before been chased to the wagons -by a band of—buffalo; and this evening the encampment -was barely formed when two hunters came bolting -in with information that a hundred, perhaps of the -same ‘enemy’ were at hand—at least this was the current -opinion afterward. The hubbub occasioned by -this fearful news had scarcely subsided, when another -arrived on a panting horse, crying out ‘Indians! Indians! -I’ve just escaped from a couple, who pursued -me to the very camp!’ ‘To arms! to arms!’ resounded -from every quarter—and just then a wolf, attracted by -the fumes of broiling buffalo bones, sent up a most -hideous howl across the creek. ‘Some one in distress!’ -was instantly shouted: ‘To his relief!’ vociferated the -crowd; and off they bolted, one and all, arms in hand,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_334">334</a></span> -hurly-burly, leaving the camp entirely unprotected, so -that had an enemy been at hand indeed, and approached -us from the opposite direction, they might easily have -taken possession of the wagons. Before they had returned, -however, a couple of hunters came in and -laughed very heartily at the expense of the first alarmist, -whom they had just chased into the camp.”</p> - -<div id="ip_334" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_334.jpg" width="600" height="374" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>CARAVAN ON THE MARCH.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From Gregg’s <cite>Commerce of the Prairies</cite>.</p></div></div> - -<p>While baseless Indian scares were common, they -sometimes had genuine frights, as in the case of a large -body of Indians met on the Cimarron River. On this -occasion, “It was a genuine alarm—a tangible reality. -These warriors, however, as we soon discovered, were -only the vanguard of a ‘countless host,’ who were by -this time pouring over the opposite ridge, and galloping -directly toward us.</p> - -<p>“The wagons were soon irregularly ‘formed’ upon -the hillside: but in accordance with the habitual carelessness -of caravan traders, a great portion of the men -were unprepared for the emergency. Scores of guns -were ‘empty,’ and as many more had been wetted by -the recent showers, and would not ‘go off.’ Here was -one calling for balls; another for powder; a third for -flints. Exclamations, such as, ‘I’ve broken my ramrod!’—‘I’ve -spilt my caps!’—‘I’ve rammed down a -ball without powder!’—‘My gun is choked; give me -yours!’—were heard from different quarters; while a -timorous ‘greenhorn’ would perhaps cry out: ‘Here, -take my gun, you can outshoot me!’ The more daring -bolted off to encounter the enemy at once, while the -timid and cautious took a stand with presented rifle<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_335">335</a></span> -behind the wagons. The Indians, who were in advance, -made a bold attempt to press upon us, which -came near costing them dearly, for some of our fiery -backwoodsmen more than once had their rusty, but -unerring, rifles directed upon the intruders, some of -whom would inevitably have fallen before their deadly -aim, had not some of the more prudent traders interposed. -The Indians made demonstrations no less hostile, -rushing, with ready sprung bows, upon a portion -of our men who had gone in search of water, and mischief -would, perhaps, have ensued, had not the impetuosity -of the warriors been checked by the wise men -of the nation.</p> - -<p>“The Indians were collecting around us, however, -in such great numbers, that it was deemed expedient -to force them away, so as to resume our march, or at -least to take a more advantageous position. Our company -was therefore mustered and drawn up in ‘line of -battle’; and, accompanied by the sound of a drum and -fife, we marched toward the main group of the Indians. -The latter seemed far more delighted than frightened -with this strange parade and music, a spectacle they -had, no doubt, never witnessed before, and perhaps -looked upon the whole movement rather as a complimentary -salute than a hostile array, for there was no -interpreter through whom any communication could -be conveyed to them. But, whatever may have been -their impressions, one thing is certain—that the principal -chief (who was dressed in a long red coat of -strouding, or coarse cloth) appeared to have full confidence<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_336">336</a></span> -in the virtues of his calumet, which he lighted, -and came boldly forward to meet our war-like corps, -serenely smoking the ‘pipe of peace.’ Our captain, -now taking a whiff with the savage chief, directed him -by signs to cause his warriors to retire. This most of -them did, to rejoin the long train of squaws and papooses -with the baggage, who followed in the rear, and -were just then seen emerging from beyond the hills.”</p> - -<p>It was estimated that there were not less than two or -three thousand of these Indians, who were supposed -to be Blackfeet and Gros Ventres. They remained for -some days in the neighborhood of the train, and kept -the traders on tenterhooks of anxiety, lest there should -be an attack, or a wholesale driving off of cattle. Later -there were talks—or at least friendly meeting—and -giving of presents; and finally, the Indians moved away -without doing any harm. It was but a day or two -later, however, when some Comanches had a skirmish -with the train, but without evil results to either party.</p> - -<p>It was not long after this that the train, still journeying -westward, saw evidence of their approach to the -Spanish settlements. On the 5th of July, as they -were proceeding after the celebration of the day before, -they met a Mexican <i xml:lang="es" lang="es">cibolero</i>, or buffalo hunter, one of -those hardy wanderers of the plains, who used to venture -out from the Spanish settlements to secure dried -buffalo meat, killing buffalo and trading with the Indians. -These wanderers made long journeys, which -often extended as far as the country claimed and occupied -by Crows, Cheyennes, and Pawnees. Perfectly accustomed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_337">337</a></span> -to the life of the plains, armed with gun and -lance, and bow and arrows, they were not less free -than the aboriginal inhabitants, whose methods in -many ways they imitated, and whose blood many of -them shared. Like the Indians, these buffalo hunters -killed their game chiefly with the arrow and the lance, -and drying its flesh, packed it on their mules, or in -their ox-carts, and carried it back to the settlements to -trade.</p> - -<p>It was not very long after, that Gregg, leaving the -train and pushing ahead with others, found himself in -the city of Santa Fé. He was much impressed by the -new country, inhabited by a race as different as possible -from those whom he had left in his Eastern home. -He was a close observer and records interestingly much -of what he saw.</p> - -<p>The wild tribes are described—the Navajoes, -Apaches, Yutas, and Caiguas, or Kiawas. Much is said -of the raids of the Apaches and the terror in which they -kept the inhabitants of the towns, as well as the Mexican -troops stationed there to protect these inhabitants. -The savage butchery of a lot of Apaches by a troop of -men, under an American leader, may perhaps be the -incident which has given rise to many similar tales -concerning the similar slaughters of the olden times. -It seems there was a celebrated Apache chief, called -Juan José, whose cunning and audacity had caused him -to be feared throughout the whole country. The government -of Sonora had announced that all booty taken -from the savages under his command should be the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_338">338</a></span> -property of those who took it. “Accordingly, in the -spring of 1837 a party of some twenty men, composed -chiefly of foreigners, spurred on by the love of gain, and -never doubting but the Indians, after so many years of -successful robberies, must be possessed of a vast amount -of property, set out with an American as their commander, -who had long resided in the country. In a -few days they reached a rancheria of about fifty warriors -with their families, among whom was the famous -Juan José himself, and three other principal chiefs. -On seeing the Americans advance, the former at once -gave them to understand that, if they had come to fight, -they were ready to accommodate them; but, on being -assured by the leader that they were merely bent on -a trading expedition, a friendly interview was immediately -established between the parties. The American -captain having determined to put these obnoxious chiefs -to death under any circumstances, soon caused a little -field-piece, which had been concealed from the Indians, -to be loaded with chain and canister shot, and to -be held in readiness for use. The warriors were then -invited to the camp to receive a present of flour, which -was placed within range of the cannon. While they -were occupied in dividing the contents of the bag, they -were fired upon, and a considerable number of their -party killed on the spot! The remainder were then -attacked with small arms, and about twenty slain, including -Juan José and the other chiefs. Those who -escaped became afterward their own avengers in a manner -which proved terribly disastrous to another party<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_339">339</a></span> -of Americans, who happened at the time to be trapping -on Rio Gila, not far distant. The enraged savages resolved -to take summary vengeance upon these unfortunate -trappers, and falling upon them, massacred them -every one.”</p> - -<p>It is added that: “The Apaches, previous to this -date, had committed but few depredations upon foreigners -(<i>i. e.</i> Americans), restrained either by fear or -respect. Small parties of the latter were permitted to -pass the highways of the wilderness unmolested, while -large caravans of Mexicans suffered frequent attacks.”</p> - -<p>It is generally known that the Indians of the plains -regarded the Mexicans as a different people from the -dwellers of the United States, and there was even a -time when a distinction was made between the inhabitants -of the United States and those of the Republic of -Texas.</p> - -<p>The bounty on scalps, adopted by the Mexican government -in 1837, was one of the many schemes devised -by the people of the borderland to check the ravages -of the Indians. By this <i>Proyecto de Guerra</i> a series of -bounties were paid for scalps, running from one hundred -dollars for the scalp of a full-grown man, down to -fifty for that of a woman, and twenty-five for that of a -little child. For a brief time this bounty was paid, -and Gregg himself saw a scalp brought in on a pole by -a Mexican officer in command of troops, precisely as -the Indians, returning from the war-path, used to bring -their scalps into their home village.</p> - -<div id="ip_339" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_340.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>WAGONS PARKED FOR THE NIGHT.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From Gregg’s <cite>Commerce of the Prairies</cite>.</p></div></div> - -<p>In 1838, Gregg returned across the plains, meeting<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_340">340</a></span> -a few adventures, among which the most important was -an attack on the train by Indians, who were supposed -to be Pawnees. The effort was merely to steal their -horses, which, happily, they saved.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_341">341</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">THE COMMERCE OF THE PRAIRIES</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">In</span> 1839, after having been only a few months in the -“States,” Gregg was unable to resist his longing -for the free life of the prairies and began to make -preparations for another trip to the Mexican settlements. -At that time the ports of Mexico were blockaded -by French men-of-war, and the demand for goods -was great, with a prospect of correspondingly high -prices. Late in April the wagon train, loaded with -twenty-five thousand dollars’ worth of goods, crossed -the Arkansas, not far from the mouth of the Canadian -fork. They had not proceeded far before they lost a -teamster; “a Cherokee shopkeeper came up to us -with an attachment for debt against a free mulatto, -whom we had engaged as teamster. The poor fellow -had no alternative but to return with the importunate -creditor, who committed him at once to the care of -‘Judge Lynch’ for trial. We ascertained afterward -that he had been sentenced to ‘take the benefit of the -bankrupt law’ after the manner of the Cherokees of -that neighborhood. This is done by stripping and -tying the victim to a tree; when each creditor, with a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_342">342</a></span> -good cowhide or hickory switch in his hand, scores the -amount of the bill due upon his bare back. One stripe -for every dollar due is the usual process of ‘whitewashing’; -and as the application of the lash is accompanied -by all sorts of quaint remarks, the exhibition affords -no small merriment to those present, with the exception, -no doubt, of the delinquent himself. After the ordeal -is over, the creditors declare themselves perfectly satisfied: -nor could they, as is said, ever be persuaded -thereafter to receive one red cent of the amount due, -even if it were offered to them. As the poor mulatto -was also in our debt, and was perhaps apprehensive -that we might exact payment in the same currency, he -never showed himself again.”</p> - -<p>The leaders of the party just setting out were well -armed with Colt’s repeating rifles and revolvers, and -carried, besides, two small cannon. Among the men -were a number of young fellows from the East, most of -them quite without prairie experience. They had not -been many days out when one of the party, out hunting, -became lost, and not returning at night, muskets were -fired to guide him to camp; but he imagined that the -firing was done by hostile Indians, and fled from the -sound. Finally, according to his statement, he was -attacked during the night by a panther, which he succeeded -in beating off with the butt of his gun. It was -imagined, however, from the peculiar odor with which -the shattered gun was still redolent when he reached -camp, that the “painter” that he had driven off was not -many degrees removed in affinity from a skunk.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_343">343</a></span> -When the train reached the north fork of the Canadian, -they met with a considerable camp of Comanches, -with whom they had some friendly intercourse. With -them was a body of United States Dragoons, under -Lieutenant Bowman, to whom had been intrusted the -task of trying to make peace with the Comanches, and -so protecting the settlements of the border. Among -these Comanches were a number of Mexican captives—women, -boys, and small children—of whom Gregg -notes that a number of them were still well able to -speak Spanish. In other words, their captivity had -been so short that they had a clear memory of the -events of earlier life. An effort was made to purchase -several of these captives, in order to return them to -their homes. Most of them, however, were unwilling -to go, and for a variety of reasons; one of the -lads, only ten or twelve years old, explaining that -by his life among the Indians he had become “now -too much of a brute to live among Christians.” One -lad Gregg did purchase, and was repaid by much -gratitude.</p> - -<p>It was near the Canadian River, which they had now -reached, that a small party of Americans experienced -terrible suffering in the winter of 1832 and ’33. “The -party,” Gregg says, “consisted of twelve men, chiefly -citizens of Missouri. Their baggage and about ten -thousand dollars in specie were packed upon mules. -They took the route of the Canadian River, fearing to -venture on the northern prairies at that season of the -year. Having left Santa Fé in December, they had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_344">344</a></span> -proceeded without accident thus far, when a large body -of Comanches and Kiawas were seen advancing toward -them. Being well acquainted with the treacherous -and pusillanimous disposition of those races, the traders -prepared at once for defence; but the savages having -made a halt at some distance, began to approach one -by one, or in small parties, making a great show of -friendship all the while, until most of them had collected -on the spot. Finding themselves surrounded in -every direction, the travellers now began to move on, -in hopes of getting rid of the intruders; but the latter -were equally ready for the start, and, mounting their -horses, kept jogging on in the same direction. The -first act of hostility perpetrated by the Indians proved -fatal to one of the American traders named Pratt, who -was shot dead while attempting to secure two mules -which had become separated from the rest. Upon this, -the companions of the slain man immediately dismounted -and commenced a fire upon the Indians, which -was warmly returned, whereby another man of the -name of Mitchell was killed.</p> - -<p>“By this time the traders had taken off their packs -and piled them around for protection; and now falling -to work with their hands, they very soon scratched -out a trench deep enough to protect them from the -shot of the enemy. The latter made several desperate -charges, but they seemed too careful of their own personal -safety, notwithstanding the enormous superiority -of their numbers, to venture too near the rifles of the -Americans. In a few hours all the animals of the traders<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_345">345</a></span> -were either killed or wounded, but no personal damage -was done to the remaining ten men, with the exception -of a wound in the thigh received by one, which was not -at the time considered dangerous.</p> - -<p>“During the siege, the Americans were in great danger -of perishing from thirst, as the Indians had complete -command of all the water within reach. Starvation -was not so much to be dreaded, because, in cases -of necessity, they could live on the flesh of their slain -animals, some of which lay stretched close around -them. After being pent up for thirty-six hours in this -horrible hole, during which time they had seldom ventured -to raise their heads above the surface without -being shot at, they resolved to make a bold sortie in the -night, as any death was preferable to the death that -awaited them there. As there was not an animal left -that was at all in a condition to travel, the owners of -the money gave permission to all to take and appropriate -to themselves whatever amount each man could -safely undertake to carry. In this way they started -with a few hundred dollars, of which but little ever -reached the United States. The remainder was buried -deep in the sand, in hope that it might escape the cupidity -of the savages, but to very little purpose, for they -were afterward seen by some Mexican traders making -a great display of specie, which was without doubt -taken from this unfortunate cache.</p> - -<p>“With every prospect of being discovered, overtaken -and butchered, but resolved to sell their lives as dearly -as possible, they at last emerged from their hiding-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_346">346</a></span>place, -and moved on silently and slowly until they -found themselves beyond the purlieus of the Indian -camps. Often did they look back in the direction -where three to five hundred savages were supposed to -watch their movements, but, much to their astonishment, -no one appeared to be in pursuit. The Indians, -believing, no doubt, that the property of the traders -would come into their hands, and having no amateur -predilection for taking scalps at the risk of losing their -own, appeared willing enough to let the spoliated adventurers -depart without further molestation.</p> - -<p>“The destitute travellers, having run themselves short -of provisions, and being no longer able to kill game -for want of materials to load their rifles, they were very -soon reduced to the necessity of sustaining life upon -roots and the tender bark of trees. After travelling -for several days in this desperate condition, with lacerated -feet, and utter prostration of mind and body, -they began to disagree among themselves about the -route to be pursued, and eventually separated into two -distinct parties. Five of these unhappy men steered -a westward course, and after a succession of sufferings -and privations which almost surpassed belief, they -reached the settlements of the Creek Indians, near the -Arkansas River, where they were treated with great -kindness and hospitality. The other five wandered -about in the greatest state of distress and bewilderment, -and only two finally succeeded in getting out of the -mazes of the wilderness.” Mooney, <cite>Kiowa Calendar</cite>, -p. 255, gives the account of this occurrence from Kiowa<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_347">347</a></span> -sources. They say that one Indian, Black Wolf, was -killed in the fight.</p> - -<p>After many difficulties, Gregg reached Santa Fé -again, and prepared to start south for Chihuahua, -where a better market for his goods was expected. -They crossed the famous Jornada del Muerto, and -reached El Paso del Norte, and at last Chihuahua. -Here was a country devoted to cattle raising; the herds, -according to Gregg, being almost as numerous as those -of the buffalo on the northern plains. Some time was -devoted to journeying through northern Mexico.</p> - -<p>On his return to Santa Fé, Gregg, having ordered -his men to “rope a beef” for food, from the herds -which covered the plains, got into trouble with the -Mexican authorities, and was greatly delayed, being -taken back to Chihuahua and tried for his offence, but -acquitted on the ground of ignorance of the laws and -the customs of the country.</p> - -<p>Shortly before they reached the Staked Plains, on -their return, they were attacked by a war-party of -Pawnees on foot, who succeeded in running off a few -of the horses and in wounding two or three men. -Their Comanche guide took them safely across the -plains, until at last they reached the Canadian River. -Gregg relates of the wind of the prairie: “It will -often blow a gale for days, and even weeks together, -without slacking for a moment, except occasionally at -night. It is for this reason, as well as on account of -the rains, that percussion guns are preferable upon the -prairies, particularly for those who understand their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_348">348</a></span> -use. The winds are frequently so severe as to sweep -away both sparks and priming from a flintlock, and -thus render it wholly ineffective.”</p> - -<p>While following down the Canadian they found buffalo -very abundant, and the gentleness and lack of -suspicion of the animal is noted. “On one occasion, -two or three hunters, who were a little in advance of -the caravan, perceiving a herd quietly grazing in an -open glade, they ‘crawled upon’ them after the manner -of the ‘still-hunters.’ Their first shot having brought -down a fine fat cow, they slipped up behind her, and -resting their guns over her body, shot two or three -others, without occasioning any serious disturbance or -surprise to their companions; for, extraordinary as it -may appear, if the buffalo neither see nor smell the -hunter, they will pay but little attention to the crack of -guns, or to the mortality which is being dealt among -them.”</p> - -<p>Gregg’s praiseworthy reflections on the wanton killing -of the buffalo are made in entire good faith, yet only -a day or two later he frankly confesses to some unnecessary -killing that he did himself. He says of the -excessive destruction: “The slaughter of these animals -is frequently carried to an excess, which shows the depravity -of the human heart in very bold relief. Such -is the excitement that generally prevails at the sight of -these fat denizens of the prairies, that very few hunters -appear able to refrain from shooting as long as the -game remains within reach of their rifles; nor can they -ever permit a fair shot to escape them. Whether the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_349">349</a></span> -mere pleasure of taking life is the incentive of these -brutal excesses, I will not pretend to decide; but one -thing is very certain, that the buffalo killed on these -prairies far exceeds the wants of the travellers; or what -might be looked upon as the exigencies of rational -sport.” In a foot-note he adds: “The same barbarous -propensity is observable in regard to wild horses. Most -persons appear unable to restrain this wanton inclination -to take life, when a mustang approaches within -rifle shot. Many a stately steed thus falls a victim to -the cruelty of man.”</p> - -<p>In April, 1840, Gregg reached the end of his journey—his -last trip upon the plains. He was as susceptible -as other men have shown themselves to the attractions -of the free life of the prairie, its “sovereign independence”; -but acknowledges the disadvantages which -follow an almost entire separation from one’s fellow-men. -Nevertheless, “Since that time,” he says, “I -have striven in vain to reconcile myself to the even tenor -of civilized life in the United States; and have sought -in its amusements and its society a substitute for those -high excitements which have attached me so strongly -to prairie life. Yet I am almost ashamed to confess -that scarcely a day passes without my experiencing a -pang of regret that I am not now roving at large upon -those Western plains. Nor do I find my taste peculiar; -for I have hardly known a man who has ever become -familiar with the kind of life which I have led for so -many years, that has not relinquished it with regret.”</p> - -<p>In his account of animals of the prairies, Gregg<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_350">350</a></span> -names first the mustang; and here we find one of the -earliest mentions of a traditional wild horse, which has -come down in many a story.</p> - -<p>“The beauty of the mustang is proverbial,” he writes. -“One in particular has been celebrated by hunters, of -which marvellous stories are told. He has been represented -as a medium-sized stallion of perfect symmetry, -milk-white, save a pair of black ears—a natural ‘pacer,’ -and so fleet, it is said, as to leave far behind every -horse that had been tried in pursuit of him, without -breaking his ‘pace.’ But I infer that this story is somewhat -mythical, from the difficulty which one finds in -fixing the abiding place of its equine hero. He is -familiarly known, by common report, all over the great -prairies. The trapper celebrates him in the vicinity -of the northern Rocky Mountains; the hunter on the -Arkansas or in the midst of the plains, while others -have him pacing at the rate of half a mile a minute on -the borders of Texas. It is hardly a matter of surprise, -then, that a creature of such an ubiquitary existence -should never have been caught.</p> - -<p>“The wild horses are generally well-formed, with -trim and clean limbs; still their elegance has been much -exaggerated by travellers, because they have seen them -at large, abandoned to their wild and natural gaiety. -Then, it is true, they appear superb indeed; but when -caught and tamed, they generally dwindle down to -ordinary ponies. Large droves are very frequently -seen upon the prairies, sometimes of hundreds together, -gambolling and curvetting within a short distance of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_351">351</a></span> -the caravans. It is sometimes difficult to keep them -from dashing among the loose stock of the traveller, -which would be exceedingly dangerous, for, once together, -they are hard to separate again, particularly -if the number of mustangs is much the greatest. It is -a singular fact, that the gentlest wagon-horse (even -though quite fagged with travel), once among a drove -of mustangs, will often acquire in a few hours all the -intractable wildness of his untamed companions.”</p> - -<p>It is many years since the real mustang has been seen -on the prairie. To-day his place is taken by the range -horse, an animal of very different character, though of -similar habits. Yet, we well recall a time, long before -the day of the range, and its cattle or horses, when -journeying through the southern country, little bands -of mustangs could sometimes be seen. One such, -which passed once close to our command, was noticeable -for the presence among its numbers of a gigantic -mule, which it had picked up from some travelling -party, and which was now as wild as the horses themselves.</p> - -<p>Naturally, Gregg has much to say about the buffalo, -and he voices an impression which long had currency, -and may still be believed by people, that the bulls were -sentinels and guards for the cows and calves. Speaking -in general terms, he says: “A buffalo cow is about -as heavy as a common ox, while a large fat bull will -weigh perhaps double as much.</p> - -<p>“These are very gregarious animals. At some seasons, -however, the cows rather incline to keep to themselves;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_352">352</a></span> -at other times they are mostly seen in the centre -of the gang, while the bulls are scattered around, -frequently to a considerable distance, evidently guarding -the cows and calves. And on the outskirts of the -buffalo range, we are apt to meet with small gangs of -bulls alone, a day or two’s travel distant, as though -performing the office of ‘pique guards’ for the main -herds.”</p> - -<p>In his remarks about the gray wolf and its habits, -he touches on the question as to whether the big wolf of -America ever voluntarily attacks man. He says: “I -have never known these animals, rapacious as they -are, extend their attacks to man, though they probably -would, if very hungry, and a favorable opportunity presented -itself. I shall not soon forget an adventure with -one of them, many years ago, on the frontier of Missouri. -Riding near the prairie border, I perceived one -of the largest and fiercest of the gray species, which had -just descended from the west, and seemed famished to -desperation. I at once prepared for a chase and, being -without arms, I caught up a cudgel, when I betook me -valiantly to the charge, much stronger, as I soon discovered, -in my cause than in my equipment. The wolf -was in no humor to flee, however, but boldly met me -the full half-way. I was soon disarmed, for my club -broke upon the animal’s head. He then ‘laid to’ my -horse’s legs, which, not relishing the conflict, gave a -plunge and sent me whirling over his head, and made -his escape, leaving me and the wolf at close quarters. -I was no sooner upon my feet than my antagonist renewed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_353">353</a></span> -the charge; but, being without weapon, or any -means of awakening an emotion of terror, save through -his imagination, I took off my large black hat, and -using it for a shield, began to thrust it toward his gaping -jaws. My ruse had the desired effect, for, after -springing at me a few times, he wheeled about and -trotted off several paces, and stopped to gaze at me. -Being apprehensive that he might change his mind and -return to the attack, and conscious that, under the -compromise, I had the best of the bargain, I very resolutely -took to my heels, glad of the opportunity of -making a draw game, though I had myself given the -challenge.”</p> - -<p>Gregg devotes considerable space to a discussion of -the aborigines of America, and among these he mentions -most of the prairie tribes. He speaks at some -length of what we now call the civilized tribes—that is -to say, the Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws, Chickasaws, -and Seminoles. He notes the dreadful evil that liquor -has created among the Indians, and gives, at the same -time, a somewhat amusing account of the Legislative -Council among the Choctaws, where whiskey was banished -from the nation: “Many and long were the -speeches which were made, and much enthusiasm was -created against the monster ‘whiskey,’ and all his brood -of compound enormities. Still every one seemed loth -to move his arrest and execution. Finally, a captain -of more than ordinary temerity arose, and offered a -resolution that each and every individual who should -thenceforth dare to introduce any of the liquid curse<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_354">354</a></span> -into their country, should be punished with a hundred -lashes on his bare back, and the liquor be poured out. -This was passed, after some slight changes, by acclamation; -but, with a due sense of the injustice of ex-post-facto -restrictions, all those who had liquors on hand -were permitted to sell them. The council adjourned; -but the members soon began to canvass among each -other the pernicious consequences which might result -from the protracted use of the whiskey already in the -shops, and therefore concluded the quicker it was -drank up the more promptly would the evil be over: so, -falling to, in less than two hours Bacchus never mustered -a drunker troop than were these same temperance -legislators. The consequences of their determination -were of lasting importance to them. The law, with -some slight improvements, has ever since been rigorously -enforced.”</p> - -<p>It is interesting to note that the Comanches, while -bitterly at war with the Mexicans and the Texans, for -very many years, nevertheless, cultivated peace with the -New Mexicans, “not only because the poverty of the -country offers fewer inducements for their inroads, but -because it is desirable, as with the interior Mexican -tribes, to retain some friendly point with which to keep -an amicable intercourse and traffic. Parties of them -have therefore sometimes entered the settlements of -New Mexico for trading purposes; while every season -numerous bands of New Mexicans, known as Comancheros, -supplied with arms, ammunition, trinkets, provisions, -and other necessaries, launch upon the prairies<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_355">355</a></span> -to barter for mules, and the different fruits of their -ravages upon the south.”</p> - -<p>Gregg’s history of these first beginnings of the westward -commerce of the United States is a most valuable -and interesting repository of the facts of the period. -It purports to be only a diary of a trader, but actually -it is history.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_356">356</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="vspace"><a id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">SAMUEL PARKER</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">In</span> the year 1838 there was published in Ithaca, -N. Y., by the author, the <cite>Journal of an Exploring -Tour Beyond the Rocky Mountains, Under the -Direction of the A. B. C. F. M., Performed in the Years -1835, ’36, and ’37; Containing a Description of the -Geography, Geology, Climate, and Productions; and -the Number, Manners, and Customs of the Natives. -With a Map of Oregon Territory.</cite> By Rev. Samuel -Parker, A.M.</p> - -<p>As may be imagined from this title, Mr. Parker was -a missionary whose business in setting out into the wild -West was to spread the Gospel. The American Board -of Commissioners for Foreign Missions sent him out -to ascertain by personal observation the condition and -character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the -opportunities for introducing the Gospel and civilization -among them. He writes in a more or less ponderous -style, and his mind is dominated, as is natural, by -the missionary idea, to such an extent that his book -at times even has something of the flavor of some of the -volumes of the <cite>Jesuit Relations</cite>.</p> - -<p>At St. Louis Mr. Parker met Dr. Marcus Whitman,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_357">357</a></span> -appointed by the American Board to be his associate in -his western explorations, and here the two missionaries -waited for a time until the caravan which they were to -accompany should be ready to start.</p> - -<p>Dr. Whitman’s name is so closely connected with the -securing of Oregon Territory by the United States that -it is hardly necessary to speak of him at any length.</p> - -<p>Before leaving Liberty, Mo., the steamer on which -they were travelling broke down, and it became necessary -to proceed overland, and they reached Fort Leavenworth -early in May, 1835. During the journey Parker -met with a number of men who, at various times, had -had close intercourse with the Wichitas or Pawnee -Picts, Comanches, Navajoes, and Apaches; and from -all these individuals he heard accounts which made -him think well of these wild and distant tribes, and of -their adaptability to Christianity and to civilized pursuits. -He was observant, too, of the local Indians—Iowas, -Sacs, and Foxes—and was favorably impressed -by all.</p> - -<p>After reaching Council Bluffs there was a long wait -before the caravan set out on its western journey. -Much is said of the Indians inhabiting this region, -Yanktons, Omahas, Poncas, and the more distant -Mandans; and some hints are given as to the mode of -life of these tribes. The party travelled up the Platte, -meeting the usual difficulties and discouragements attendant -on the stormy weather in summer. Much of -the time they were drenched to the skin. Occasionally -a storm of hail would come, which scattered their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_358">358</a></span> -animals, and much time was devoted to gathering them -again. Travelling westward, the two Campbells and -Sublette, with a few men, were met returning from -the Black Hills.</p> - -<p>The apparently fertile bottom lands of the Platte, -over which they were travelling, greatly impressed the -missionary, who prophesied concerning it as follows: -“No country could be more inviting to the farmer, -with only one exception—the want of woodland. The -latitude is sufficiently high to be healthy; and as the -climate grows warmer as we travel west, until we approach -the snow-topped mountains, there is a degree -of mildness not experienced east of the Alleghany Mountains. -The time will come, and probably is not far -distant, when this country will be covered with a dense -population. The earth was created for the habitation -of man, and for a theatre on which God will manifest -his perfections in his moral government among his -moral creatures, and therefore the earth, according to -divine prediction, shall be given to the people of God. -Although infidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet -God will accomplish His designs and fulfill every promise -contained in His Word. Then this amazing extent of -most fertile land will not continue to be the wandering -ground of a few thousand Indians, with only a very few -acres under cultivation; nor will millions of tons of -grass grow up to rot upon the ground, or to be burned -up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to -disincumber it of its spontaneous burden. The herds -of buffalo which once fattened upon these meadows<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_359">359</a></span> -are gone; and the deer which once cropped the grass -have disappeared; and the antelopes have fled away; -and shall solitude reign here till the end of time? No: -here shall be heard the din of business, and the church-going -bell shall sound far and wide.”</p> - -<p>Before long the travellers reached the Loup Fork, -which they crossed; and here they met a number of -Pawnee Indians, who treated them with great courtesy -and kindness, and invited them to feast with them. -Reference is made here to Messrs. Dunbar and Allis, -and to the missionary work that they were doing -among the Pawnees.</p> - -<p>From the Pawnee country the party kept on up the -Platte, through the open country. Here, it seems, those -Indians most feared were the Arickaras, not the Sioux -and Cheyennes, as was the case thirty years later. At -this time that tribe was said to have gone far up the -south fork of the Platte to avoid the United States -dragoons, under command of Colonel Dodge, who was -pursuing them. As Parker’s party went up the north -fork of the Platte, he speaks of “their using particular -caution to be prepared for an attack of the Arickaras, -should any of their war parties be about us. Every -man was required to see that his rifle was in good order, -and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We -all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called with the -sentinels’ fire, we might in less than a moment be ready -for action.”</p> - -<p>Here is a word about the animals that they saw next -day as they journeyed on:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_360">360</a></span> -“Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in great numbers, and -in nearer view than previously. They are less shy than -those we first found. They are more majestic than the -elk, but less beautiful. The antelopes, some of which -we have seen for several days past, are becoming very -numerous. They are rightly named, for their speed exceeds -any animal I have ever seen. Our hounds can do -nothing in giving them the chase; so soon are they left -far in the rear, that they do not follow them more than -ten or twenty rods before they return, looking ashamed -of their defeat. Our hunters occasionally take some of -them by coming upon them by stealth. When they are -surprised, they start forward a very small space, and -then turn, and with high-lifted heads stare for a few -seconds at the object which has alarmed them, and then, -with a half whistling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as -much upon wings as upon feet. They resemble the -goat, but are far more beautiful.”</p> - -<p>Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, and Scott’s Bluffs -were duly passed. Some very friendly Ogallallahs were -met with just before they reached the Laramie River. -Their camp that night was close to the fort. Here took -place one of the days of revelry and carousing which -are so frequently noted in these old books as occurring -periodically. There were dances by the Indians, and -other celebrations. Keeping on up the Platte, they -passed Independence Rock August 7th, and reached the -Sweetwater. The weather was now growing colder, and -ice often made during the night.</p> - -<div id="ip_360" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_360.jpg" width="600" height="400" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>TRAPPERS ATTACKED BY INDIANS.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From an old print by A. Tait.</p></div></div> - -<p>On reaching Green River they came to the rendezvous<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_361">361</a></span> -of the American Fur Company. Who was in command -Parker does not tell us; but that various well-known persons -were present is certain. For example, “While we -continued in this place, Dr. Whitman was called to perform -some very important surgical operations; he extracted -an iron arrow three inches long from the back of -Captain Bridger, which he had received in a skirmish -three years before with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a -difficult operation, in consequence of the arrow being -hooked at the point by striking a large bone, and a -cartilaginous substance had grown around it. The Dr. -pursued the operation with great self-possession and perseverance, -and Captain Bridger manifested equal firmness. -The Indians looked on while the operation was -proceeding with countenances indicating wonder, and -when they saw the arrow, expressed their astonishment -in a manner peculiar to themselves. The skill of Dr. -Whitman undoubtedly made upon them a favorable impression. -He also took another arrow from under the -shoulder of one of the hunters which had been there two -years and a half.”</p> - -<p>Here Parker consulted the Flatheads and Nez Percés, -asking them if they would be willing to receive a minister -of the Gospel. They needed no persuasion, but -agreed to allow him to come to them, and so cordial was -their response, that it seemed best that Dr. Whitman -should return with the caravan, enlist some more workers, -and return the next year with another caravan, to -establish a mission among these people. Dr. Whitman -at first was unwilling to leave his fellow missionary to go -on alone, but finally did so.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_362">362</a></span> -During another day of drunkenness a fight took place -at the rendezvous. “A hunter, who goes technically by -the name of the great bully of the mountains, mounted -his horse with a loaded rifle, and challenged any Frenchman, -American, Spaniard or Dutchman to fight him in -single combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if -he wished to die, he would accept the challenge. Shunar -defied him. Carson mounted his horse, and with a -loaded pistol rushed into close contact, and both almost -at the same instant fired. Carson’s ball entered Shunar’s -hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm -above the elbow. Shunar’s ball passed over the head -of Carson, and while he went for another pistol, Shunar -begged that his life might be spared.”</p> - -<p>Parker had arranged to travel on with the Flatheads. -The chief of these gave him a young man as an assistant, -and Parker secured a voyageur who understood -English and Nez Percé. Parker and his Indian friends -started, August 21, in company with Bridger, whose -way led in the same direction as theirs. Bridger had -about fifty men. They followed up the stream to Jackson’s -Hole, and encamped on a small stream which the -author says is one of the upper branches of the Columbia -River. He says something about the difficulties of -travel and the narrow passages which it was necessary -to traverse, and which he calls “kenyans.” This term -is found more or less frequently in these old books by -persons who seem to have written it down only from -hearing the word spoken. Near Jackson’s Hole he -climbed one of the high mountains, and was greatly impressed -by what he saw. One day while travelling<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_363">363</a></span> -through the mountains “a number of buffalo, which -were pursued by our Indians, came rushing down the -side of the mountain through the midst of our company. -One ran over a horse, on the back of which was a -child, and threw the child far down the descent, but it -providentially was not materially injured. Another -ran over a packed horse and wounded it deeply in -the shoulders.”</p> - -<p>Mr. Parker evidently enjoyed the companionship of -the Indians, whom he seems to have regarded with most -pleasant feelings. He says: “The Indians are very kind -to each other, and if one meets with any disaster, the -others will wait and assist him. Their horses often turn -their packs and run, plunge and kick, until they free -themselves from their burdens. Yesterday a horse -turned his saddle under him upon which a child was fastened, -and started to run, but those near hovered at once -around with their horses so as to inclose the one to which -the child was attached, and it was extricated without -hurt. When I saw the condition of the child, I had no -expectation that it could be saved alive.”</p> - -<p>A little later, still speaking of the children, he says of -the Indians: “They are so well supplied with horses that -every man, woman and child are mounted on horseback, -and all they have is packed upon horses. Small children, -not more than three years old, are mounted alone, -and generally upon colts. They are lashed upon the -saddle to keep them from falling, and especially when -they go asleep, which they often do when they become -fatigued. Then they recline upon the horse’s shoulders;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_364">364</a></span> -and when they awake, they lay hold of their whip, which -is fastened to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it -smartly to their horses; and it is astonishing to see how -these little creatures will guide and run them. Children -which are still younger are put into an encasement made -with a board at the back, and a wicker-work around the -other parts, covered with cloth inside and without, or -more generally with dressed skins; and they are carried -upon the mother’s back, or suspended from a high nob -upon the fore part of their saddles.”</p> - -<p>Still moving westward, early in September they met a -band of Nez Percés. They came to Parker’s camp about -the middle of the day, “the principal chief marching in -front with his aid, carrying an American flag by his side. -They all sung a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. -As they drew near, they displayed columns, and made -quite an imposing appearance. The women and children -followed in the rear.”</p> - -<p>The next day’s diary is devoted almost entirely to an -account of missionary work, in which the author gives -an extract of the various sermons that he preached to -the Indians, who received his teachings with great patience -and interest. By this time the party was out of -provisions, and all were getting hungry, but no game -was seen. However, on September 9, buffalo were -viewed, and preparations were made to chase them. -All the best hunters chose their swiftest horses, and seeing -that their arms were in good order, made ready for -the run; while Parker did what he could by lifting up -“my heart in prayer to God, that He would give them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_365">365</a></span> -judgment, skill and success. They advanced toward -the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should -frighten them before they should make a near approach; -and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase -when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisition. -When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the -rush was made, each Indian selecting for himself a cow -with which he happened to come into the nearest contact. -All were in swift motion scouring the valley; a -cloud of dust began to arise, firing of guns and shooting -of arrows followed in close succession; soon here and -there buffalo were seen prostrated, and the women, who -followed close in the rear, began the work of securing -the valuable acquisition, and the men were away again -in pursuit of the fleeing herd. Those in the chase when -as near as two rods shoot and wheel, expecting the -wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses appeared -to understand the way to avoid danger. As -soon as the wounded animal flies again, the chase is renewed, -and such is the alternate wheeling and chasing -until the buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained -between fifty and sixty, which was a signal -mercy.”</p> - -<p>Not long after this, the Nez Percés and Flatheads left -them, wishing to remain in the buffalo range to secure -their winter’s meat. Before going away, however, they -presented Parker with twenty tongues and a large quantity -of dried meat. About a hundred and fifty of the -Indians kept on down Salmon River with the missionaries; -and not long afterward they had a tremendous<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_366">366</a></span> -Indian scare, supposing that they were about to be attacked -by the Blackfeet. A little investigation, however, -showed that what had been seen were buffalo, -and not Blackfeet, and food again became plenty in the -camp.</p> - -<p>Parker appears to have been a man of considerable -attainments. He remarks upon the geology of the -region he passes through; enumerates the birds and -mammals which he sees, and has much to say about -the habits and characteristics of the Indians; and interspersed -through all are frequent references to the Deity, -His wishes and purposes as interpreted by the missionary, -together with earnest aspirations for the spread of -the Gospel among the red people.</p> - -<p>Walla Walla was reached early in October, and there, -at the post of the Hudson’s Bay Company, Parker was -received by Mr. Pambrun with great hospitality. For -this the guest was very grateful, and he says many good -words concerning the kindly people and the company -which they represented; words which are not only good -but true.</p> - -<p>After a day or two of rest at Walla Walla, the missionary -started down the river in a canoe with three -Walla Walla Indians, and before long stopped at a camp -of Cayuse Indians, with whom, however, he was unable -to communicate. He noticed that all along the river as -he passed, the Indians, though of different tribes, -seemed to be on good terms with one another, a condition -which was inevitable from the fact that all these -Indians drew their support from the river, to which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_367">367</a></span> -they resorted for salmon, and coming there for provisions, -could not have afforded to fight, even had they -wished to.</p> - -<p>At the Dalles, Parker met Captain Wyeth, from Boston, -with whom, it will be remembered, Townsend and -Nuttall had journeyed westward the year before. A -little above the Cascades he met the first Chenooks, -which he denominates “the only real Flatheads and Nez -Percés, or pierced noses, I have found. They flatten -their heads and pierce their noses. The flattening of -their heads is not so great a deformity as is generally -supposed. From a little above the eyes to the apex or -crown of the head there is a depression, but not generally -in adult persons very noticeable. The piercing of -the nose is more of a deformity, and is done by inserting -two small tapering white shells, about two inches long, -somewhat in the shape of a thorn, through the lower part -of the cartilaginous division of the nose.” While following -the trail along the river, he came to a pleasant -rise of ground, upon which were several houses of a -forsaken village, which were both larger and far better -than any he had hitherto seen in any Indian country. -They were about sixty feet long and thirty-five wide, the -frame work very well constructed, and covered with split -planks and cedar bark. These houses thus greatly resemble -those seen in recent times on the coast of portions -of British Columbia. The next day Mr. Parker reached -Fort Vancouver, the Hudson’s Bay post, where Dr. J. -McLaughlin, a chief factor of the company, received -him very kindly. From here Parker went on down the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_368">368</a></span> -river, and reached the brig “May Dacre,” of Boston, -belonging to the Wyeth Company. Here he met Dr. -Townsend, and before long they set sail down the -river, and reached Astoria, the far-famed New York of -the West.</p> - -<p>The Indians of the country beyond the Continental -Divide through which Parker passed, he divides into -those of the plains, which live in the upper country from -the falls of the Columbia to the Rocky Mountains, and -those of the lower country, between the shores of the -Pacific and the falls of the Columbia River. He observes -that the first of these divisions are remarkable for -their cleanliness; that they are well supplied with horses, -which are very cheap, a good horse selling for not more -than enough to purchase a blanket or a few small articles -of merchandise. As to their habits, he declares that the -Indians of the plains are not lazy, as they are commonly -supposed to be, for he rarely saw any of those Indians -without their being engaged in some pursuit. To him -the Indians appeared as they since have to others—not -especially different from other people. They have the -same natural propensities, and the same social affections. -“They are cheerful and often gay, sociable, kind and -affectionate; and anxious to receive instruction in whatever -may conduce to their happiness here or hereafter.” -They have but few manufactures, and those are the -most plain and simple.</p> - -<p>He calls attention to the fact that these Indians have -no wars among themselves, and appear averse to all -wars, not entering into battle except in self-defence.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_369">369</a></span> -Their only enemies are the Blackfoot Indians, whose -country is along the east border of the Rocky -Mountains, and who are constantly roaming about in -parties on both sides of the mountains in quest of -plunder. When the Indians on the West side meet with -these war parties they endeavor to avoid an encounter, -but if compelled to fight, “show a firm, undaunted, -unconquerable spirit, and rush upon their enemies -with the greatest impetuosity.” When an enemy is -discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the -women take charge of them, while every man seizes his -weapons, mounts his horse, and waits, firm and undismayed, -to see if hostilities must ensue. Very frequently -when the Blackfeet see white men with the Nez Percés -and Flatheads, they decline battle, even though they -themselves may be far superior in numbers, for they -know that the white man can furnish a large supply -of ammunition on such occasions. The Nez Percé or -Flathead chief will accept the pipe, explaining as he -does so that he knows the Blackfeet mean war, although -they pretend peace.</p> - -<p>The Indians were great gamblers, especially at running -horses and in foot-races. Drunkenness was a vice -as yet strange to these Indians, but Parker predicted that -it would come to them so soon as it was possible to transport -liquor to them. He describes the method of doctoring -by a medicine man, and the practice of the sudatory -or sweat bath. All this is of the plains Indians.</p> - -<p>Those of the lower country are of less attractive type -than the others. As their subsistence depends almost<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_370">370</a></span> -entirely on fish, they are less well clad, for they have not -the same opportunity to obtain skins as the people of the -buffalo country. Liquor had been brought into the -lower country, and the Indians were slaves to it.</p> - -<p>These Indians believe in the immortality of the soul, -and that in the future state we shall have the same wants -as in this life. Thus, in 1829, the wife of an influential -chief of the Chenooks, near Cape Disappointment, killed -two female slaves, which should attend her child to the -world of spirits, and especially should row her canoe to -the Happy Hunting Ground in the South.</p> - -<p>As the wealth of the upper Indians is estimated in -their horses, so those of the lower country count their -property by the number of their wives, slaves, and -canoes. Special attention is called to the excellent -canoes which they make, and also to the baskets woven -so closely as to hold water, and to be used for pails. -Of course, they were also used as pots in which to cook -fish and mush.</p> - -<p>After having spent the winter on the Columbia, Parker -set out in May to revisit the Nez Percés. He reached -them in a short time, and, as it happened, came to a village -just as a little child was being buried. The Indians -had prepared a cross to be set up at the grave, very -likely having been taught to do so by some Iroquois Indians, -of whom there were not a few trapping in the -country; and here appears the bigotry of the missionary -of that, and indeed of later days as well, for Parker says: -“But as I viewed a cross of wood made by men’s hands, -of no avail to benefit either the dead or the living, and far<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_371">371</a></span> -more likely to operate as a salve to a guilty conscience, -or a stepping stone to idolatry, than to be understood in -its spiritual sense to refer to the crucifixion of our sins, -I took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke -it to pieces. I then told them we place a stone at -the head and foot of the grave only to mark the place; -and without a murmur they cheerfully acquiesced, and -adopted our custom.”</p> - -<p>Parker appears to have regarded the Nez Percé Indians -as especially adapted to conversion, and laments -that he is unable to speak their language, and thus to -communicate with them directly. Parker was an active -and conscientious person, and evidently wished to see -all he could of the country to which he had been sent. -He set out from the Nez Percés for the Colville country, -meeting Spokanes, Cayuses, Cœur d’Alenes, and a -number of other small tribes. Returning, he was unable -to get transportation down the Columbia River, -and was obliged to take horses for Fort Okanagan. -The journey was long and very dry, and the party suffered -more of less from thirst. At Fort Okanagan he -took a boat to run down the river four hundred miles to -Walla Walla, which he reached in safety. Toward the -end of June he took ship for the Sandwich Islands, and -in December, 1836, sailed on board the “Phœnix” -for his home in the East. After a stormy passage he -reached New London, May 18, and five days later, -after two years and two months of absence, and journeyings -which covered twenty-eight thousand miles, -arrived at his home at Ithaca, <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_372">372</a></span>N. Y.</p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV<br /> - -<span class="subhead">THOMAS J. FARNHAM</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap a"><span class="smcap1">A curious</span> little book, the title-page of which -bears the date 1841, is Thomas J. Farnham’s, -<cite>Travels in the Great Western Prairies, The -Anahuac and Rocky Mountains, And in The Oregon -Territory</cite>. It was published in Poughkeepsie, N. Y., -by Killey & Lossing, printers. It contains nearly two -hundred pages, and is printed in very fine type, and on -thin paper, with small margins; so that in fact it looks -more like a tract than a volume. Yet it contains about -a hundred and twenty thousand words.</p> - -<p>Its title indicates the character of the book. It is the -narrative of a journey made in order to obtain “a view -of the Great Prairie Wilderness, the Rocky Mountains, -and the sweet vales of the Oregon Territory.”</p> - -<p>Farnham was one of a party of fourteen men who left -Peoria, Ill., on the first day of May, 1839. The company -was followed by a wagon containing their provisions, -ammunition, and other baggage, and each man -carried “a rifle swung at his back; a powder horn, bullet -pouch and long knife at his side.”</p> - -<div id="ip_372" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_372.jpg" width="600" height="393" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>TRAIN STAMPEDED BY WILD HORSES.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From Bartlett’s <cite>Texas, New Mexico, California</cite>, etc.</p></div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_373">373</a></span> -Their way westward was marked by no adventure, -except the usual ones of travel on the prairie; but at -Quincy the author met Joe Smith, Jr., the father of the -Mormon prophet, and he interrupts his narrative to give -a somewhat extended account of Mormonism and the -history of the Latter Day Saints up to that time. From -Quincy they passed on to Independence, Mo., twenty -days out from their starting point. Here the travellers -beheld a sight novel to them—the breaking of green -mules to harness; and after some time devoted to loitering -about Independence, and making preparations for -their journey, they started westward in a storm.</p> - -<p>Farnham’s party followed the track of the Santa Fé -traders, and, like others who passed over this road, they -met with the Kauzaus (Kansas) Indians, whom they -saw and wondered at. Early in the trip, near the Osage -River, the members of Farnham’s company began to -weary of prairie life, and three of his best men determined -to return to the “States,” and left him. The -journey continued along the Santa Fé trail, but provisions -began to grow short. Game was seen from time to -time, but none was killed. Continual storms drenched -them, wet their packs and their ropes, and made life -more or less of a burden to them. At last, however, in -the latter half of June, they came to the buffalo range, -overtaking there a party of Santa Fé traders.</p> - -<p>Buffalo now began to be found, and the party killed -their first one, “a noble bull; a mountain of flesh weighing -at least three thousand pounds.” This relieved -their necessities, but they were anxious, because of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_374">374</a></span> -prospect of soon meeting Indians—Caws, Pawnees, or -Comanches, or all three. And now, to make things -worse, one of the men of the party accidentally shot himself -with his own rifle. For a day or two he was carried -in one of the wagons belonging to the Santa Fé caravan, -but presently Farnham’s party turned off from this trail, -and then the wounded man was obliged either to ride a -horse or travel in a litter. Experiment soon showed, -however, that the last method of travelling was impracticable, -and it was necessary for the man to ride. His -wound became inflamed and painful, but the constant -care of the author made life much easier for the wounded -man. “June 23, the buffalo were more numerous than -ever. They were ranged in long lines from the eastern -to the western horizon. The bulls were forty or fifty -yards in advance of the bands of cows, to which they -severally intended to give protection. And as the moving -embankment of wagons, led by an advanced guard, -and flanked by horsemen riding slowly from front to -rear, and guarded in the rear by men, made its majestic -way along, these fiery cavaliers would march each to his -own band of dames and misses, with an air that seemed -to say, ‘we are here’; and then back again to their lines, -with great apparent satisfaction, that they were able to -do battle for their sweet ones and their native plains.” -Farnham says that during three days they passed over -a country so completely covered by buffalo that it appeared -oftentimes dangerous even for the immense -cavalcade of the Santa Fé traders to attempt to break -its way through them. He figures that they travelled<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_375">375</a></span> -over one thousand three hundred and fifty square miles -of territory so thickly covered with buffalo that, when -viewed from a height, it scarcely afforded a sight of a -square league of its surface. Soon after this, disaffection -showed itself in the ranks of Farnham’s company, -and it was proposed to abandon the wounded man, the -mutineers declaring that he would die in any event, and -that it was not worth while to delay the whole party to -await that event.</p> - -<p>Now, too, a jealousy as to the command arose. There -was a bully who determined to frighten Farnham into -abdicating the leadership of the party in his favor.</p> - -<p>At last they reached Fort William, or Bent’s Fort, on -the Arkansas, and on account of the differences which -had sprung up within the party, it was decided to disband -here. The property owned in common was to be -divided up among the members of the expedition, and -they were to go their several ways. As it turned out, -Farnham and a few others went on together.</p> - -<p>“Fort William,” he says, “is owned by three brothers -by the name of Bent, from St. Louis. Two of them -were at the post when we arrived there. They seemed -to be thoroughly initiated into Indian life; dressed like -chiefs; in moccasins, thoroughly garnished with beads -and porcupine quills; in trousers of deer-skin, with long -fringes of the same extending along the outer seam from -the ankle to the hip; in the splendid hunting shirt of the -same material, with sleeves fringed on the elbow-seam -from the wrist to the shoulder, and ornamented with -figures of porcupine quills of various colors, and leathern<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_376">376</a></span> -fringe around the lower edge of the body. And chiefs -they were in the authority exercised in their wild and -lonely fortress.”</p> - -<p>The country in which the fort was situated was then -the common hunting-ground of several buffalo tribes, -unfriendly alike to one another and the whites. The -Utaws and Cheyennes, the Pawnees and the Comanches -gathered here in summer to hunt the buffalo; and thus, -in the neighborhood of the post, there might be from -fifteen to twenty thousand savages, “ready and panting -for plunder and blood.” If the Indians engaged in fighting -had their own battles among themselves, the people -of Bent’s Fort felt safe; but if the Indians kept the -peace among themselves, there was great anxiety at Fort -William.</p> - -<p>“Instances of the daring intrepidity of the Comanches -that occurred just before and after my arrival here, will -serve to show the hazard and dangers of which I have -spoken. About the middle of June, 1839, a band of sixty -of them under cover of night crossed the river and concealed -themselves among the bushes that grow thickly -on the bank near the place where the animals of the -establishment feed during the day. No sentinel being -on duty at the time, their presence was unobserved, and -when morning came the Mexican horse guard mounted -his horse, and with the noise and shouting usual with -that class of servants when so employed, rushed his -charge out of the fort; and riding rapidly from side to -side of the rear of the band, urged them on, and soon -had them nibbling the short dry grass in the little vale<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_377">377</a></span> -within grape-shot distance of the guns of the bastions. -It is customary for a guard of animals about these trading -posts to take his station beyond his charge; and if -they stray from each other, or attempt to stroll too far, -he drives them together, and thus keeps them in the best -possible situation to be driven hastily to the corral, -should the Indians, or other evil persons, swoop down -upon them. And as there is constant danger of this, his -horse is held by a long rope, and grazes around him, -that he may be mounted quickly at the first alarm for a -retreat within the walls. The faithful guard at Bent’s, -on the morning of the disaster I am relating, had dismounted -after driving out his animals, and sat upon the -ground watching with the greatest fidelity for every call -of duty; when these fifty or sixty Indians sprang from -their hiding places, ran upon the animals, yelling horribly, -and attempted to drive them across the river. -The guard, however, nothing daunted, mounted quickly, -and drove his horse at full speed among them. The -mules and horses hearing his voice amidst the frightening -yells of the savages, immediately started at a lively -pace for the fort; but the Indians were on all sides and -bewildered them. The guard still pressed them onward -and called for help: and on they rushed, despite the -efforts of the Indians to the contrary. The battlements -were covered with men. They shouted encouragement -to the brave guard—‘Onward! onward!’ and the injunction -was obeyed. He spurred his horse to his greatest -speed from side to side, and whipped the hindermost -of the band with his leading rope. He had saved every<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_378">378</a></span> -animal; he was within twenty yards of the open gate; he -fell; three arrows from the bows of the Comanches had -cloven his heart. And relieved of him, the lords of the -quiver gathered their prey, and drove them to the borders -of Texas, without injury to life or limb. I saw this -faithful guard’s grave. He had been buried a few days. -The wolves had been digging into it. Thus forty or -fifty mules and horses and their best servant’s life, were -lost to the Messrs. Bent in a single day. I have been -informed also that those horses and mules, which my -company had taken great pleasure in recovering for them -in the plains, were also stolen in a similar manner soon -after my departure from the post; and that the gentlemen -owners were in hourly expectation of an attack -upon the fort itself.”</p> - -<p>It was midsummer when Farnham left Fort William, -with four companions, for Oregon Territory. He -stopped at Fort El Puebla, five miles above Bent’s Fort, -and here met a number of trappers. One of these -greatly impressed him, a man from New Hampshire. -“He had been educated at Dartmouth College, and -was, altogether, one of the most remarkable men I ever -knew. A splendid gentleman, a finished scholar, a critic -on English and Roman literature, a politician, a trapper, -an Indian.” Dressed in a deer-skin frock, leggings -and moccasins; there was not a shred of cloth -about his person. Stiff, cold, and formal at first, he -thawed as their acquaintance grew, and gave Farnham -glimpses into his nature which greatly interested the -traveller. There were other men among these trappers,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_379">379</a></span> -who told the author tales of adventure which he -gladly set down, and which are well worth reproducing -did space permit. Here Farnham traded for additional -horses, and before long they set out to cross -the mountains.</p> - -<p>Led by a trapper named Kelly, who was familiar with -the country through which they were to go, the party -followed up the Arkansas, and at last entered the -Rocky Mountains. Before they had gone very far their -way seemed barred by mountains impracticable for -pack-horses; yet their guides, after considering the way, -marched straight onward over mountains of which some -notion may be had from the following description: “The -upper half, though less steep, proved to be the worst part -of the ascent. It was a bed of rocks, at one place small -and rolling, at another large and fixed, with deep openings -between them. So that our animals were almost -constantly falling, and tottering upon the brink of the -cliffs, as they rose again and made their way among -them. An hour and a half of this most dangerous and -tiresome clambering deposited us in a grove of yellow -pines near the summit. Our animals were covered with -sweat and dirt, and trembled as if at that instant from -the race track. Nor were their masters free from every -ill of weariness. Our knees smote each other with fatigue, -as Belshazzar’s did with fear. Many of the pines -on this ridge were two feet in diameter, and a hundred -feet high, with small clusters of limbs around the tops. -Others were low, and clothed with strong limbs quite -near the ground. Under a number of these latter we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_380">380</a></span> -had seated ourselves, holding the reins of our riding -horses, when a storm arose with the rapidity of a whirlwind, -and poured upon us hail and rain and snow with -all imaginable liberality. A most remarkable tempest -was this.... One portion of it had gathered its electricity -and mist around James’ Peak in the east; another -among the white heights northwest; and a third among -the snowy pyramids of the Utaws in the southwest; and -marshalling their hosts, met over this connecting ridge -between the eastern and central ranges, as if by general -battle to settle a vexed question as to the better right to -the pass; and it was sublimely fought. The opposing -storms met nearly at the zenith, and fiercely rolled together -their angry masses. And as if to carry out the -simile I have here attempted, at the moment of their -junction, the electricity of each leaped upon its antagonist -transversely across the heavens, and in some instances -fell in immense bolts upon the trembling cliffs; -and then instantly came a volley of hail as grape-shot, -sufficient to whiten all the towers of this horrid war. It -lasted an hour.”</p> - -<p>After the tempest had ceased they clambered to the -summit—whence they had a marvellous view of the -Great Main snowy range of the “Rocky,” “Stony” or -“Shining” mountains—then, clambering down on the -other side, they camped not far below, on the headwaters -of the Platte River, in what is now North Park, Colorado. -Food was scarce, and nothing had been killed -since they left Fort William; but when they came in sight -of the Bayou Salade, Kelly promised them that before<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_381">381</a></span> -long they would have meat; and sure enough, during the -day a buffalo was seen, killed by the guide, and greedily -devoured. A hearty meal of its flesh; tongue, fat ribs, -tenderloin, marrow-bones, and blood-pudding were all -enjoyed, and the party ate almost the whole night long.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_382">382</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV<br /> - -<span class="subhead">THOMAS J. FARNHAM</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">They</span> were now in the country of the Utes, or -rather, in the debatable land visited for hunting -purposes by Utes, Cheyennes, Arapahoes, Shoshoni, -Blackfeet, and Crows. They therefore travelled -with some care, put out their fires at night, looked to -their arms, and prepared to meet the foe. No Indians -were seen, however; but another misfortune visited -them in the loss of one of the guide’s horses, poisoned by -some food that it had eaten.</p> - -<p>As they journeyed on, food again became scarce, and -the travel was so difficult that they had no time to hunt, -and suffered from hunger. On the Little Bear River -they met a party of four French Canadians, who a few -days before had been attacked by a Sioux war party on -Little Snake River [of Colorado]. Here again attention -is called to the difference in character of the French -and the American trappers. The former are mercurial, -volatile, and always merry, cheering themselves on their -journeys with song; while the American trapper is -watchfulness personified, and his concentration in this<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_383">383</a></span> -direction destroys all frivolity. “They seldom smile; -the expression of their countenances is watchful, solemn -and determined. They ride and walk like men whose -breasts have so long been exposed to the bullet and arrow, -that fear finds within them no resting place. If -a horseman is descried in the distance, they put spurs -to their animals and are at his side at once, as the result -may be for death or life. No delay, no second -thought, no cringing in their stirrups; but erect, firm, -and with a strong arm, they seize and overcome every -danger ‘or perish,’ say they, ‘as white men should,’ -fighting promptly and bravely.”</p> - -<p>On parting next day—August 5—with the French and -American trappers, two of Farnham’s party left him. -Farnham notes the kindness and free-handedness of the -trappers. He had given them a little ammunition, and -they sought to repay the kindness by presenting him and -his party with moccasins, dressed deer and elk skins, and -other articles. “Everything, even their hunting shirts -upon their backs, were at our service; always kindly -remarking when they made an offer of such things, that -‘the country was filled with skins, and they could get a -supply when they should need them,’” It was this same -day that a man, pursuing some bears, found among the -brush a prize—an excellent pack-mule, feeding quietly, -and so tame as to permit him to approach within ten -yards of it without even raising its head. The man prepared -to catch it, when suddenly the mule “most wonderfully, -most cruelly, metamorphosed itself into an elk!—fat -as marrow itself, and sufficient in weight to have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_384">384</a></span> -fed our company for twelve days—and fled away,” the -man who had prepared to catch it being too astonished -to shoot at it. This was unlucky, for now they -had no food. Game was seen several times, but none -was killed. The next day, however, a family of bears -was seen, and two cubs secured. They weighed about -twelve pounds apiece, and made for the party, as the -author expresses it, “a filthy supper.” They were trying -to reach Brown’s Hole, but progress was slow. For -forty-eight hours after the finishing of the cubs they had -no food; and then, with great regret, they killed their -dog, singed and ate it. At last, after more days of hunger, -they found themselves in Brown’s Hole, and at Fort -David Crockett.</p> - -<p>Here there was food and to spare, and white men, -traders, especially one Robinson, who traded chiefly -with the Snakes. This was very likely “Uncle Jack -Robinson,” who died, a very old man, at Fort Bridger -about 1894. He was one of the party of trappers who -found the Arapahoe baby whom they named Friday.</p> - -<p>In this “Happy Valley,” which, however, was not free -from incursions by the wandering enemy, the travellers -spent much time, and here Farnham puts down some -things that he learned concerning the Snake, Crow, -Blackfeet, and Arapahoe Indians. He describes especially -the pestilence which visited the Blackfeet in -1828, at which time they numbered about two thousand -five hundred lodges, or families, which would perhaps -mean twelve thousand five hundred people. This -enumeration may perhaps refer to the Piegan Blackfeet<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_385">385</a></span> -alone, or to all three of the tribes of that -nation.</p> - -<p>At that time, as in later visits of this dread disease, -the Blackfeet treatment was by the sweat lodge, followed -by a plunge into icy water, from which often the weakened -victim was unable to struggle again to the shore. -At this time the Blackfoot camp, it is said, was on the -banks of the Yellowstone.</p> - -<p>A glimpse of the estimation in which the Blackfeet -were held in those days is afforded by the reflection -with which the author concludes his description of this -scourge; for he says: “But this infliction has in no wise -humanized their blood-thirsty nature. As ever before, -they wage exterminating war upon the traders and trappers, -and the Oregon Indians.”</p> - -<p>At Brown’s Hole, Farnham met an old Snake Indian -who had seen Lewis and Clark on the headwaters of -the Missouri in 1805. This man was the first of his -people who saw the exploring white man. “He appears -to have been galloping from place to place in the -office of sentinel to the Shoshoni camp, when he suddenly -found himself in the very presence of the whites. -Astonishment fixed him to the spot. Men with faces -pale as ashes had never been seen by himself or his -nation. ‘The head rose high and round, the top flat; -it jutted over the eyes in a thin rim; their skin was loose -and flowing, and of various colors.’ His fears at length -overcoming his curiosity, he fled in the direction of the -Indian encampment. But being seen by the whites they -pursued and brought him to their camp; exhibited to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_386">386</a></span> -him the effects of their firearms, loaded him with presents, -and let him go. Having arrived among his own -people, he told them he had seen men with faces pale as -ashes, who were makers of thunder, lightning, etc. -This information astounded the whole tribe. They -had lived many years, and their ancestors had lived -many more, and there were many legends which spoke -of many wonderful things; but a tale like this they had -never heard. A council was therefore assembled to -consider the matter. The man of strange words was -summoned before it; and he rehearsed, in substance, -what he had before told to others, but was not believed. -‘All men were red, and therefore he could not have seen -men as pale as ashes. The Great Spirit made the -thunder and lightning; he therefore could not have seen -men of any color that could produce them. He had -seen nothing; he had lied to his chief, and should die.’ -At this stage of the proceedings, the culprit produced -some of the presents which he had received from the -pale men. These being quite as new to them as pale -faces were, it was determined ‘that he should have the -privilege of leading his judges to the place where he declared -he had seen these strange people; and if such were -found there, he should be exculpated; if not, these presents -were to be considered as conclusive evidence -against him, that he dealt with evil spirits, and that he -was worthy of death by the arrows of his kinfolks.’ -The pale men—the thunder makers—were found, and -were witnesses of the poor fellow’s story. He was released, -and has ever since been much honored and loved<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_387">387</a></span> -by his tribe, and every white man in the mountains. He -is now about eighty years old, and poor. But as he is -always about Fort David Crockett, he is never permitted -to want.”</p> - -<p>At Brown’s Hole arrived Paul Richardson, who was -returning from the borders of Oregon to St. Louis. He -had guided some missionaries and others, from the -Western States to that unknown region, and among -them a man whose purpose it was to conquer the territory -of California. The missionaries were Messrs. -Munger and Griffith, and their wives were with them. -Influenced by Richardson’s story, which was very unfavorable -to Oregon as a place of residence, two of -Farnham’s men determined to return to the Mississippi -Valley. This left him only Blair, an old man, and the -useless person whose life he had saved, as companions -for the long journey before him. The event was disheartening. -Farnham, however, was a man of determination, -and was not to be turned from his -purpose of striving, at least, to reach the mouth of the -Colorado River that season. He therefore engaged a -Snake Indian to pilot him to Fort Hall, about two -hundred miles distant; the compensation offered for -the service being fifty loads of ammunition, and three -bunches of beads. One of the melancholy things of -continuing the journey was the necessity of parting with -Kelly, the trapper who had bravely and effectively -guided them from Fort William to Brown’s Hole. -When the last farewells were said, they started off, -following the Green River, which here is called Sheetskadee;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_388">388</a></span> -and on a tributary of this stream, a day or -two later, Farnham lost his Pueblo mare—a prairie, -and not a mountain, horse—which, after escaping -many dangers in climbing the rough mountains to the -eastward, at last fell over a cliff about six hundred feet -high and was killed.</p> - -<p>When starting out from Fort David Crockett, they -had been ill supplied with food, of which a considerable -part was dog meat, but Jim, the Indian guide, occasionally -killed an antelope, which kept the party from -suffering. While still travelling up the river, they met -a free trapper, named Madison Gordon, who told them -the usual story of few beaver, and little game; and he -declared that he purposed to move West, and to begin -farming in the valley of the Willamette, which he -averred was the purpose also of a large number of his -fellow trappers. One morning, as they were packing, -the guide detected in the distance, down the river, people -coming. Who these might be they did not know. -They had visions of war parties of Crows, Sioux, and -Blackfeet, and prepared for the attack; put new caps -on their rifles, mounted, and took up a favorable position. -But before long their guide rode out from behind -their brush-wood camp and hurried his horse -toward the stranger. This man proved to be the celebrated -bear killer, Meek—perhaps the man whose story -is told in a book entitled, <cite>The River of the West</cite>, -which gives much of the history of the early settlements -on the Columbia River. A day or two after this, food -must have again become scarce with them, for the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_389">389</a></span> -author says, quite incidentally, “at sunset our camp -kettle was bubbling over the bones of a pelican at the -‘Steamboat Spring.’” Think of the joy of eating boiled -pelican! What more nauseous dish can be imagined. -Crossing over into the valley of Bear River, they hurried -on their way, frequently made uneasy by finding the -tracks of people, and even by seeing camp fires at night, -and at length reached Fort Hall, and full meals, in -which fresh buffalo tongue figured largely.</p> - -<p>After a short stay at Fort Hall, Farnham and his people, -under the guidance of an Indian, set out to cross the -burnt plains of Snake River. Two or three days out the -party was joined by a Swiss trapper who had been eight -years in the mountains. He had been a student in a -seminary, but had deserted that training-ground for the -priesthood and had come to America and taken to the -mountains.</p> - -<p>The wormwood deserts of the Snake River were hard -enough on the travellers, but harder still on their animals, -which had little to eat. Digger Indians were sometimes -met; and when they reached the Boisais River they -found Indians in considerable numbers engaged in taking -salmon for their winter provisions. They were -pleasant, hospitable, and ready to trade provisions, or -even horses; and here the party renewed their stock. It -was here too that their guide left them, explaining that -now that he had come to the country of another people, -it would not be good manners to act as guide through -their land. Left without guidance in a country cut up -with trails, they were obliged to depend on themselves,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_390">390</a></span> -but at length succeeded in hiring a number of Bonak -[Bannock] Indians to guide them to the fort, which they -were now approaching.</p> - -<p>The fort at Boisais was as hospitable as all the others -had been. This post was built in 1832 by the Hudson’s -Bay Company to counteract the influence of Wyeth’s -Fort Hall, the building of which is described in J. K. -Townsend’s sketches. At this time it was commanded -by Mr. Payette. The stay at Boisais was not long, and -the travellers moved on over a country sometimes easy -to traverse, again extremely difficult. In some places all -the party walked, except the worthless Smith, who insisted -on making his unfortunate beast carry him over -the roughest ground. A few days later they reached the -Columbia River, and crossing over found themselves before -the mission, in the presence of Dr. Whitman. Mr. -Munger and Mr. Hall were also there. A pretty picture -is painted of the life and work of this mission among the -Skyuse Indians, whom they were endeavoring to teach -the ordinary occupations of civilized life.</p> - -<p>At the Dalles Farnham saw some Chinooks, and declared -that they flattened their heads more and are more -stupid than any other tribe on the Columbia.</p> - -<p>He tells us that these Indians subsist on the acorns of -the white oak and on fish. For winter the fish is dried, -and then pounded to powder and mixed with the oil of -the leaf fat of the fish, and packed away in flag sacks; -thus making a sort of fish pemmican. Although no salt -is used in this preparation, it remains good through the -winter. The acorns, gathered as soon as they fall to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_391">391</a></span> -the ground, are buried in sand, which is kept constantly -saturated with water, where they remain till spring. -This soaking is said to remove their bitter flavor.</p> - -<p>Passing on down the Columbia, Farnham passed -various settlements and farms, one of which belonged to -Thomas McKay, son of the McKay who figured with -John Jacob Astor in the doings of the Pacific Fur Company. -McKay was building a grist mill, and it was well -advanced toward completion. The mother of McKay -was a Cree or Chippewa Indian. This is the McKay -spoken of by Townsend.</p> - -<p>It was just at this time that the British, as well as the -Americans, were beginning to take possession of Oregon, -and what is now Washington. It had long been occupied -by the Hudson’s Bay Company; but, on the other -hand, many Americans had traded and settled there; -and the American settlers were urgent that they should -be protected, declaring this to be a portion of their country’s -domain. The settlers held a meeting while Farnham -was there, and handed him a petition, signed by -sixty-seven citizens of the United States, and persons -desirous of becoming such, the substance of which was -a description of the country, their unprotected situation, -and a prayer that the Federal Government would extend -over them the protection and institutions of the -Republic.</p> - -<p>Farnham’s original intention was to explore Oregon -during the winter then beginning, and during the following -summer to return to the States with the American -fur traders. Already the rainy season had begun, however,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_392">392</a></span> -and it was uncertain whether the traders would -return to the States next year. That plan had to be -given up. Finally he determined to take ship from the -mouth of the Columbia River either for New York or -California, as the opportunity might offer.</p> - -<p>At Fort Vancouver he found a number of Hudson’s -Bay people, with whom the time passed very pleasantly. -Then, again taking to his canoe, he passed down to the -mouth of the river, where he found the good ship -“Vancouver,” Captain Duncan; and shortly after, passing -out to sea, Farnham’s travels in the great Anahuac -were ended.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_393">393</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI<br /> - -<span class="subhead">FREMONT</span> - -<span class="subhead">I</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">The</span> inequality with which fame distributes her -favors has always been a fertile subject for moralist -and philosopher. One man may do great -things, and yet through innate modesty, or ill fortune of -some sort, may make no impression on the popular -imagination; so that his deeds are soon forgotten. Another, -by a series of fortunately narrated adventures of -relatively much less difficulty and danger, may acquire -the name of having accomplished great things. Zebulon -M. Pike, the explorer, was a man of the first kind. -John C. Fremont, commonly spoken of as the Pathfinder, -and by many people believed to have been the -discoverer of the Rocky Mountains, belonged to the -second class. The work that Fremont did was good -work, but it was not great. He was an army officer, -sent out to survey routes across the continent; and he -did his duty, and did it well; but he did not discover -the Rocky Mountains, nor did he discover gold in California, -as often supposed. He passed over routes already -well known to the men of the plains and the -mountains, and discovered little that was new, except<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_394">394</a></span> -the approximate location of many points. Nevertheless, -in his two expeditions, which cover the years 1842 -and 1843, and 1844, he traversed ten thousand miles of -wilderness, between the Missouri River and the shores -of the Pacific; and he connected the surveys of the State -of Missouri with those made by the Wilkes expedition -at the mouth of the Columbia. This involved much -labor and hardship, and was of high value at the time, -but it is not to be compared with the work done by -Lewis and Clark, and Pike; and the fact that Fremont -gained great fame while his predecessors seemed until -recently to be almost forgotten, seems unjust.</p> - -<p>Fremont’s first expedition went only as far as the -Rocky Mountains, terminating at the South Pass and -Fremont’s Peak. The second, which reached those -mountains by another route, crossed them at the South -Pass, and proceeded West to the Oregon River—the -Columbia—and northern California.</p> - -<p>The story of these two journeys is embodied in a report -addressed to the Chief of the Corps of Topographical -Engineers, and published in Washington in 1845.</p> - -<p>Although a formal report, made by an army officer, -and written in the ordinary style of an itinerary of the -daily march, yet Fremont’s account of his travels is told -with much vividness; and quite apart from the interest -which attaches to it as a description of the still unexplored -West, it attracts by its graphic style. The accounts -of the hunting, encounters with Indians, and -mountain climbing are spirited; and the descriptions -of wild scenery show real feeling.</p> - -<div id="ip_394" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 26.8125em;"> - <img src="images/i_394.jpg" width="429" height="600" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">MAJOR-GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT.</div></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_395">395</a></span> -Fremont’s party consisted of Charles Preuss, his assistant -in topography; L. Maxwell, a hunter, with Kit -Carson as guide. L. Maxwell and Kit Carson had long -before this both been employed at Bent’s old fort—Fort -William. They had married sisters, daughters of Mr. -Beaubien of Taos, N. M., who a few years later was -killed in the Pueblo rising at Taos. He had over -twenty Frenchmen, Creoles, and Canadian voyageurs, -old prairie men, who had been servants of the fur companies. -Among these men are such names as Lambert, -L’Esperance, Lefevre, Lajeunesse, Cadotte, Clément, -Simonds, Latulippe, Badeau, Chardonnais, and Janisse. -The children and grandchildren of some, perhaps of -many of these men, are still living, at various points in -the West, and still bear the names of their ancestors. -Joseph Clément, for example, probably a son of old -man Clément, lives to-day on the Standing Rock Indian -Reservation, in South Dakota. Nicholas and Antoine -Jeunesse, or Janisse, a few years ago were still alive, -one at Pine Ridge, the other at Whetstone Agency, in -South Dakota. Antoine Janisse died at Pine Ridge in -1897 and his brother Nicholas about 1905.</p> - -<p>The expedition started on Friday, June 10, from -Cyprian Chouteau’s trading-post, near the mouth of the -Kansas River, and marched up that stream. Their baggage, -instruments and provisions were carried in mule -carts, of which they had eight; and the men, except the -drivers of these carts, were mounted; and some of them -drove loose horses. A few oxen were taken along for -food. They marched up the Kansas River, and from<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_396">396</a></span> -time to time purchased milk, butter, and vegetables at -Indian farms, a condition of things which indicates that -the Indians at that time were further advanced toward -civilization and self-support than many of them seem to -be at the present day. It was the practice to encamp -an hour or two before sunset, when the carts were arranged -so as to form a sort of barricade, or at least to -mark the boundaries of a circle about the camp, eighty -yards in diameter.</p> - -<p>“The tents were pitched and the horses hobbled and -turned loose to graze; and but a few minutes elapsed -before the cooks of the messes, of which there were four, -were busily engaged in preparing the evening meal.... -When we had reached a part of the country where -such a precaution became necessary, the carts being -regularly arranged for defending the camp, guard was -mounted at eight o’clock, consisting of three men, who -were relieved every two hours; the morning watch being -horse guard for the day. At daybreak the camp was -roused, the animals turned loose to graze, and breakfast -generally over between six and seven o’clock, when we -resumed our march, making regularly a halt at noon for -one or two hours.”</p> - -<p>During his march up the Kansas River, Fremont -speaks of passing a large but deserted Kansas village, -“scattered in an open wood along the margin of the -stream, on a spot chosen with the customary Indian -fondness for beauty of scenery. The Pawnees had attacked -it in the early spring. Some of the houses were -burnt, and others blackened with smoke, and weeds<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_397">397</a></span> -were already getting possession of the cleared places.” -June 17 they crossed the Big Vermillion, and Big Blue; -and saw their first antelope; while Carson brought in a -fine deer. They were now on the trail of a party of -emigrants to Oregon, and found many articles that they -had thrown away. Game began to be abundant; there -were flocks of turkeys in the bottom of the Little Blue; -elk were seen on the hills, and antelope and deer -abounded. When they reached the Pawnee country, -many were the tales told of the craft and daring of these -independent people. One morning they had a genuine -Indian alarm; a man who was somewhat behind the -party, rode up in haste, shouting, “Indians! Indians!” -He stated that he had seen them, and had counted -twenty-seven. The command was at once halted, and -the usual precautions made for defence, while Carson, -mounting one of the hunting horses, set out to learn the -cause of the alarm. “Mounted on a fine horse, without -a saddle, and scouring bareheaded over the prairie, Kit -was one of the finest pictures of a horseman I have ever -seen. A short time enabled him to discover that the -Indian war party of twenty-seven consisted of six elk -who had been gazing curiously at our caravan as it -passed, and were now scampering off at full speed. -This was our first alarm, and its excitement broke -agreeably on the monotony of the day.”</p> - -<p>The party now crossed over to the Platte River—which -Fremont calls the Nebraska—and encamped on -its banks. Two days later, while they were halted for -noon, there came the startling cry, “<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Du monde!</i>”—<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_398">398</a></span>people. -In a moment all were prepared for defence. -Horses were driven in, hobbled and picketed, and the -horsemen were galloping at full speed in the direction of -the new-comers, screaming and yelling with the wildest -excitement. The travellers proved to be a small party, -under the charge of a man named John Lee, which had -left Fort Laramie two months before, endeavoring to -transport the furs of the American Fur Company down -the Platte by boat; they had started with the annual -flood, but before they had travelled one hundred and -fifty miles found that their waterway had become too -shoal for their boats; they had therefore cached their -possessions, and had started east on foot, carrying on -their backs their provisions, clothing, and a few light -furs. It was from among this party that Fremont engaged -Latulippe, who, though on his way to St. Louis, -really had no special desire to go there, and was quite -willing to turn about and face the West again.</p> - -<p>The same day three Cheyennes were met, returning -from an unsuccessful horse-stealing expedition against -the Pawnee village. They joined the party, and for -some days afterward travelled in its company. On the -29th the first buffalo were seen, and on the following -day these animals swarmed “in immense numbers over -the plain, where they had left scarcely a blade of grass -standing.” “We had heard from a distance a dull and -confused murmuring, and when we came in view of their -dark masses there was not one among us who did not -feel his heart beat quicker. It was the early part of -the day, when the herds are feeding, and everywhere<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_399">399</a></span> -they were in motion. Here and there a huge old bull -was rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the -air from various parts of the bands, each the scene of -some obstinate fight. Indians and buffalo make the -poetry and life of the prairie, and our camp was full of -their exhilaration.” Here first they feasted on buffalo -meat. Fremont says: “At any time of the night might -be seen pieces of the most delicate and choicest meat, -roasting <i xml:lang="la" lang="la">en appolas</i>, on sticks around the fire, and the -guard were never without company. With pleasant -weather and no enemy to fear, an abundance of the -most excellent meat, and no scarcity of bread or tobacco, -they were enjoying the oasis of a voyageur’s life. Three -cows were killed to-day. Kit Carson had shot one, and -was continuing the chase in the midst of another herd, -when his horse fell headlong, but sprang up and joined -the flying band. Though considerably hurt, he had the -good fortune to break no bones; and Maxwell, who was -mounted on a fleet hunter, captured the runaway after a -hard chase. He was on the point of shooting him, to -avoid the loss of his bridle (a handsomely mounted -Spanish one), when he found that his horse was able to -come up with him.”</p> - -<p>The next day, July 1, Fremont himself made a chase -for buffalo. He says: “As we were riding quietly along -the bank, a grand herd of buffalo, some seven or eight -hundred in number, came crowding up from the river, -where they had been to drink, and commenced crossing -the plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind was -favorable; the coolness of the morning invited to exercise,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_400">400</a></span> -the ground was apparently good, and the distance -across the prairie (two or three miles) gave us a fine -opportunity to charge them before they could get among -the river hills. It was too fine a prospect for the chase -to be lost; and, halting for a few moments, the hunters -were brought up and saddled, and Kit Carson, Maxwell, -and I started together. They were now somewhat less -than half a mile distant, and we rode easily along until -within about three hundred yards, when a sudden agitation, -a wavering in the band, and a galloping to and fro -of some which were scattered along the skirts gave us -the intimation that we were discovered. We started together -at a grand gallop, riding steadily abreast of each -other, and here the interest of the chase became so engrossingly -intense, that we were sensible to nothing else. -We were now closing upon them rapidly, and the front -of the mass was already in rapid motion for the hills, and -in a few seconds the movement had communicated itself -to the whole herd.</p> - -<p>“A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the rear, and -every now and then some of them faced about, and then -dashed on after the band a short distance, and turned -and looked again, as if more than half inclined to stand -and fight. In a few moments, however, during which -we had been quickening our pace, the rout was universal, -and we were going over the ground like a hurricane. -When at about thirty yards we gave the usual shout -(the hunter’s <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">pas de charge</i>), and broke into the herd. -We entered on the side, the mass giving way in every -direction in their heedless course. Many of the bulls,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_401">401</a></span> -less active and less fleet than the cows, paying no attention -to the ground, and occupied solely with the hunter, -were precipitated to the earth with great force, rolling -over and over with the violence of the shock, and hardly -distinguishable in the dust. We separated on entering, -each singling out his game.</p> - -<p>“My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the West -under the name of Proveau, and, with his eyes flashing, -and the foam flying from his mouth, sprang on after the -cow like a tiger. In a few moments he brought me -alongside of her, and, rising in the stirrups, I fired at the -distance of a yard, the ball entering at the termination -of the long hair, and passing near the heart. She fell -headlong at the report of the gun, and, checking my -horse, I looked around for my companions. At a little -distance, Kit was on the ground, engaged in tying his -horse to the horns of a cow which he was preparing to -cut up. Among the scattered bands, at some distance -below, I caught a glimpse of Maxwell; and while I was -looking, a light wreath of white smoke curled away from -his gun, from which I was too far to hear the report. -Nearer, and between me and the hills, toward which -they were directing their course, was the body of the -herd, and, giving my horse the rein, we dashed after -them. A thick cloud of dust hung upon their rear, -which filled my mouth and eyes, and nearly smothered -me. In the midst of this I could see nothing, and the -buffalo were not distinguishable until within thirty feet. -They crowded together more densely still as I came -upon them, and rushed along in such a compact body,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_402">402</a></span> -that I could not obtain an entrance—the horse almost -leaping upon them. In a few moments the mass divided -to the right and left, the horns clattering with a -noise heard above everything else, and my horse darted -into the opening. Five or six bulls charged on us as -we dashed along the line, but were left far behind; -and, singling out a cow, I gave her my fire, but struck -too high. She gave a tremendous leap, and scoured on -swifter than before. I reined up my horse, and the -band swept on like a torrent, and left the place quiet -and clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous -ground. A prairie-dog village, so thickly settled that -there were three or four holes in every twenty yards -square, occupied the whole bottom for nearly two miles -in length. Looking around, I saw only one of the hunters, -nearly out of sight, and the long dark line of our -caravan crawling along, three or four miles distant.”</p> - -<p>Continuing up the Platte River, Fremont reached the -junction of the North and South Platte, on the 2d of -July. He now divided his forces, sending one party up -the North Platte to Fort Laramie, and another up -the South Platte to St. Vrain’s fort, and thence across -country to a meeting point at Fort Laramie. This last -party he determined to take charge of himself, taking -Mr. Preuss, and four of his best men. The Cheyennes, -whose village was supposed to be on the South Platte, -also decided to accompany him. The party for the -North Fork was to be in charge of Clément Lambert. -The separation took place July 5. The party following -up the South Platte took one led horse, and a pack-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_403">403</a></span>mule, -and travelled very light. The cook had been -ordered to prepare provisions for this outfit, and they -started. When they stopped for noon, however, they -discovered that the provisions they supposed they were -carrying, had been left behind, and they had nothing to -eat except the meat of a poor bull that they had killed -during the day. As the trip promised to be a hard one, -Fremont sent two of his men, Preuss and Bernier, -across the country to rejoin those who were travelling up -the North branch of the river.</p> - -<p>Buffalo were abundant, and an incident of the march -was a bull fight on a large scale, which the travellers -intercepted: “In the course of the afternoon, dust -rising among the hills at a particular place, attracted -our attention; and riding up, we found a band of eighteen -or twenty buffalo bulls engaged in a desperate fight. -Though butting and goring were bestowed liberally, -and without distinction, yet their efforts were evidently -directed against one—a huge gaunt old bull, very lean, -while his adversaries were all fat and in good order. -He appeared very weak and had already received some -wounds, and, while we were looking on, was several -times knocked down and badly hurt, and a very few -moments would have put an end to him. Of course we -took the side of the weaker party, and attacked the -herd; but they were so blind with rage, that they fought -on, utterly regardless of our presence, although on foot -and on horseback we were firing in open view within -twenty yards of them. But this did not last long. In -a very few seconds, we created a commotion among<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_404">404</a></span> -them. One or two, which were knocked over by the -balls, jumped up and ran off into the hills; and they began -to retreat slowly along a broad ravine to the river, -fighting furiously as they went. By the time they had -reached the bottom, we had pretty well dispersed them, -and the old bull hobbled off, to lie down somewhere. -One of his enemies remained on the ground where we -had first fired upon them, and we stopped there for a -short time to cut from him some meat for our supper.”</p> - -<p>At length they reached the post, and were cordially -received by Mr. St. Vrain.</p> - -<p>No provisions could be had here, except a little -coffee; but the way from here to Fort Laramie was -through a country supposed to abound in buffalo, so that -there was no danger of starvation. Here Fremont obtained -a couple of horses and three mules, and he also -hired a Spaniard for his trip, and took with him two -others who were going to obtain service on the Laramie -River. Crossing various streams, they passed through a -pleasant buffalo country, and crossed Lodgepole Creek, -and Horse Creek, coming to Goshen’s Hole.</p> - -<p>The party struck the North Platte thirteen miles below -Fort Laramie, and continuing up the stream, they -first came in view of Fort Platte, a post belonging to -Messrs. Sybille, Adams & Co.; and from there kept -on up to Fort John, or Fort Laramie. Mr. Preuss and -his party had already reached there, but had been much -alarmed by the accounts of Indian hostilities, received -from James Bridger and a large party of traders and -trappers that he was guiding eastward.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_405">405</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">FREMONT</span> - -<span class="subhead">II</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap al"><span class="smcap1">At</span> Fort Laramie, Fremont heard much about -the hostilities of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who, -the year before, had had a severe fight with a -party of sixty men, under the command of Mr. Frapp, of -St. Louis. The Indians had lost eight or ten men, and -the whites half as many, including their leader. This -left the Indians in a bad frame of mind, and many of -the young men had gone off on a war-path, threatening -to kill emigrants, and, in fact, any whites passing -through the country. One or two parties had already -been saved, through the efforts of Fitzpatrick, of the -Broken Hand; but the Indians were clearly in a bad -temper. A large village of Sioux was camped here, -and Fremont had many savage visitors who were very -much interested in him and his curious actions. His -astronomical observations and instruments especially -excited their awe and admiration; but the chiefs were -careful to keep the younger men and the women and -children from annoying the astronomer. Here the services -of Joseph Bissonette as interpreter were secured,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_406">406</a></span> -and the party prepared to start. Before this was done, -however, a delegation of chiefs warned Fremont not to -go farther. He, however, explained to them that he -must obey his orders, and was finally allowed to go at -his own risk.</p> - -<p>The party proceeded up the North Platte River, and -the first night out were joined by Bissonette, the interpreter, -and by his Indian wife and a young Sioux sent -forward by the chiefs at Fort Laramie, partly as guide -and partly to vouch for the explorers in case they should -meet with hostile Sioux. Fremont imagined, from -Bissonette’s long residence in the country, that he was a -guide, and followed his advice as to the route to be pursued. -He afterward learned that Bissonette had seldom -been out of sight of the fort, and his suggestions obliged -the party to travel over a very rough road. They met -a party of Indians who gave very discouraging accounts -of the country ahead, saying that buffalo were scarce, -that there was no grass to support the horses, partly because -of the excessive drought, and partly on account -of the grasshoppers, which were unusually numerous. -The next day they killed five or six cows and made dried -meat of them. Buffalo continued plenty and they -pushed forward, meeting Indians, who again gave them -bad accounts of the country ahead, so that Bissonette -strongly advised Fremont to turn about. This he declined -to do, but told his men what he had heard and -left it to each man to say whether he would go on or turn -back. Fremont had absolute confidence in a number -of the best men, and felt sure that they would stay with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_407">407</a></span> -him, and to his great satisfaction all agreed to go forward. -Here, however, the interpreter and his Indian -left him, and with them Fremont sent back one of his -men, who, from the effect of an old wound, was unable -to travel on foot and his horse seemed on the point of -giving out. The carts were taken to pieces and cached -in some willow brush, while everything that could be -spared was buried in the ground. Pack-saddles were -arranged and from here the animals were to carry their -loads, not to haul them. Carson was appointed guide, -for the region they were now entering had long been his -residence.</p> - -<p>Instead of following the emigrant trail, which left the -Platte and crossed over to the Sweetwater, Fremont determined -to keep on up the Platte until he reached the -Sweetwater, thinking that in this way he would find -better feed for his animals. The decision proved a wise -one. The day after leaving their cache they found -abundant grass as well as some buffalo, and although -when they passed the ford where the Indian village -had crossed the river they found there the skeletons of -horses lying all about, they had no trouble in finding -grass for their animals.</p> - -<p>On August 1 they camped near Independence Rock, -an isolated granite rock about six hundred and fifty yards -long and forty in height. “Everywhere within six or -eight feet of the ground, where the surface is sufficiently -smooth, and in some places sixty or eighty feet above,” -he relates, “the rock is inscribed with the names of -travellers. Many a name famous in the history of this<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_408">408</a></span> -country, and some well known to science, are to be -found mixed among those of the traders and of travellers -for pleasure and curiosity, and of missionaries among -the savages.”</p> - -<p>It was on August 3 that the party had their first sight -of the Wind River Mountains, distant then about seventy -miles, and appearing as a low, dark, mountainous -region. Soon after this they came to the canyon where -the Sweetwater comes out of the mountains, and they -followed the river up for some distance, but finally left -it and turned up a ravine leading to the high prairie -above. For some time they had found fuel very -scarce, and had been obliged to burn buffalo chips and -sage brush as they did here. The rain, which from time -to time had been falling upon them down in the valley, -now showed as snow on the white peaks that they -had approached, for they were within a short distance -of the South Pass, which was the objective point for -the expedition. Soon they reached the highest point -of the Pass, which Fremont estimates at about seven -thousand feet, passed over it and camped on the Little -Sandy, a tributary of Green River.</p> - -<p>The explorer felt a natural longing to push northward -from this point, wishing to cross the heads of the Yellowstone, -which he justly supposed arose among the mountains -which lay to the north of him, but the party were -in no condition to make such a journey; the men were -more or less exhausted by the difficulties of past travel, -provisions were almost gone, and game was scarce. He, -however, built a stout corral and felled timber on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_409">409</a></span> -margin of a lake not far off, where there was abundant -food for the animals; and, dividing his party, left some -of the men and the weakest animals here, and taking -fourteen men with fifteen of the best mules, set out to -penetrate farther into the mountains. Travel through -the mountains was slow and difficult, but attractive; it -was down one steep slope and then up another and then -down again. Every hilltop showed some deep and -beautiful valley, often occupied by lakes, always showing -the course of some pure and rapid mountain torrent. -The vegetation was fresh and green, as different as possible -from the parched grass and juiceless wormwood -through which they had so long been travelling.</p> - -<p>At their camp of August 13 the upward way became -so steep and rough that it was determined to leave the -animals here and to continue the journey on foot. The -men carried with them nothing but arms and instruments; -and as the day was warm many of them left their -coats in camp. They climbed and climbed, finding, as -always happens in the mountains, that the distances -were much greater than they supposed. At night they -were still far from their objective point, and they lay -down without anything to eat. The next morning, -however, starting early, and of course without food, they -got among the snow-fields. The elevation was now -great, and several of the men, Fremont among the number, -were taken ill and were unable to proceed. From -here Basil Lajeunesse, with four men, was sent back to -the place where the mules had been left, with instructions -to bring on, if possible, four or five animals, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_410">410</a></span> -provisions and blankets. Soon after this Fremont and -the remaining men returned to their camp, and that -night the men sent back for the animals returned with -food and bedding. The next day, encouraged by rest -and a couple of hearty meals, they determined once -more to essay the peaks. They rode their animals well -up on to the mountains, and then turning them loose, -again began to climb. Their previous experience stood -them in good stead; they climbed slowly, and at last -reached the summit of the mountains, presumably the -peak now known as Fremont’s Peak. From this point -the Three Tetons bore north fifty degrees west, and -Fremont’s elevation he gives as thirteen thousand five -hundred and seventy feet. He says, with reasonable -pride, “We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky -Mountains and looked down upon the snow a thousand -feet below, and, standing where never human foot had -stood before, felt the exultation of first explorers.”</p> - -<p>They returned to the camp, where they had left their -animals, and travelled rapidly eastward, through South -Pass, and down on to the Sweetwater and the Platte. -An effort was made to run this river with the india-rubber -boat, which for daring and hardihood really deserved -success. However, although they ran some distance -and passed a number of threatening places, they -did not get through. “We pushed off again, but after -making a little distance the force of the current became -too great for the men on shore, and two of them let go -the rope. Lajeunesse, the third man, hung on and was -jerked headforemost into the river from a rock about<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_411">411</a></span> -twelve feet high, and down the boat shot like an arrow. -Basil following us in the rapid current and exerting all -his strength to keep in mid-channel—his head only seen -occasionally like a black spot in the white foam. How -far we went I do not exactly know, but we succeeded -in turning the boat into an eddy below. ‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Cré Dieu</i>’ -said Basil Lajeunesse, as he arrived immediately after -us. ‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Je crois bien que j’ai nagé un demi mile.</i>’ (‘Good -Lord! I believe I have swum half a mile.’) He had -owed his life to his skill as a swimmer, and I determined -to take him and the two others on board and trust to -skill and fortune to reach the other end in safety. We -placed ourselves on our knees and with the short paddles -in our hands, the most skilful boatman being at -the bow, and again we commenced our rapid descent. -We cleared rock after rock and shot past fall after fall, -our little boat seeming to play with the cataract. We became -flushed with success and familiar with the danger, -and, yielding to the excitement of the occasion, broke -forth together into a Canadian boat song. Singing, or -rather shouting, we dashed along, and were, I believe, -in the midst of the chorus when the boat struck a concealed -rock immediately at the foot of a fall which -whirled her over in an instant. Three of my men could -not swim and my first feeling was to assist them and -save some of our effects; but a sharp concussion or two -convinced me that I had not yet saved myself. A few -strokes brought me into an eddy, and I landed on a pile -of rocks on the left side. Looking around I saw that -Mr. Preuss had gained the shore on the same side, about<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_412">412</a></span> -twenty yards below, and a little climbing and swimming -soon brought him to my side. On the opposite side, -against the wall, lay the boat bottom up, and Lambert -was in the act of saving Descoteaux, whom he had -grasped by the hair, and who could not swim. ‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Lache -pas</i>,’ said he, as I afterward learned, ‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">lache pas, cher -frère</i>.’ (‘Don’t let go; don’t let go, dear brother.’) -‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Crains pas</i>,’ was the reply, ‘<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Je m’en vais mourir avant -que de te lâcher</i>.’ (‘Don’t fear, I will die before I let -you go.’) Such was the reply of courage and generosity -in this danger. For a hundred yards below the -current was covered with floating books and boxes, -bales of blankets and scattered articles of clothing; -and so strong and boiling was the stream that even our -heavy instruments—which were all in cases—kept on -the surface, and the sextant, circle and the long black -box of the telescope were in view at once. For a moment -I felt somewhat disheartened. All our books—almost -every record of the journey—our journals and -registers of astronomical and barometrical observations—had -been lost in a moment. But it was no time to -indulge in regrets, and I immediately set about endeavoring -to save something from the wreck. Making ourselves -understood as well as possible by signs—for -nothing could be heard in the roar of the waters—we -commenced our operations. Of everything on board -the only article that had been saved was my double-barrelled -gun, which Descoteaux had caught and clung -to with drowning tenacity. The men continued down -the river on the left bank. Mr. Preuss and myself descended<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_413">413</a></span> -on the side we were on, and Lajeunesse, with -a paddle in his hand, jumped on the boat alone and -continued down the cañon. She was now light and -cleared every bad place with much less difficulty. In -a short time he was joined by Lambert, and the search -was continued for about a mile and a half, which was -as far as the boat could proceed in the pass.</p> - -<p>“Here the walls were about five hundred feet high, -and the fragments of rock from above had choked the -river into a hollow pass but one or two feet above the -surface. Through this and the interstices of the rock -the water found its way. Favored beyond our expectations, -all of our registers had been recovered with the -exception of one of my journals, which contained the -notes and incidents of travel, and topographical descriptions, -a number of scattered astronomical observations, -principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and our barometrical -register west of Laramie. Fortunately, our -other journals contained duplicates of the most important -barometrical observations which had been taken -in the mountains. These, with a few scattered notes -were all that had been preserved of our meteorological -observations. In addition to these we saved the circle, -and these, with a few blankets, constituted everything -that had been rescued from the waters.”</p> - -<p>Having gathered up the things which they left on the -shore, the members of the party, half naked, started on -foot for the camp below where the other men had been -sent. They reached there that night and found the -much-needed food and clothing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_414">414</a></span> -After passing Fort Laramie, Fremont made another -effort to navigate the Platte River, trying to descend it -in a bull boat; but this descent, instead of being a trip -by water, resolved itself into dragging the vessel over -the sands and finally abandoning it. On the 22d of -September, Fremont reached the village of the Grand -Pawnees, about thirty miles above the mouth of the -Loup fork, on the Platte River, and on October 1 he -found himself at the settlements on the Missouri River. -From here the river was descended in a boat and St. -Louis was reached October 17.</p> - -<div id="ip_414" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> - <img src="images/i_414.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><p>AN OTO COUNCIL.</p> - -<p class="smaller">From James’s <cite>An Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky -Mountains by Major Stephen H. Long</cite>.</p></div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_415">415</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII<br /> - -<span class="subhead">FREMONT</span> - -<span class="subhead">III</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Fremont’s</span> second trip was on a scale somewhat -more extensive than his first. His party consisted -of thirty-two regular engagees, besides a negro, -and two Delaware Indians, who were hired to act as -hunters. The route was up the Kansas valley, across -the divide, to the head of the Arkansas, and then through -passes in the mountains—if any could be found—at the -source of this river. The party left “the little town of -Kansas”—now Kansas City—the last of May, and proceeded -without special adventure until the afternoon of -June 6, when a little confusion was caused by the sudden -arrival of Maxwell—one of the hunters of the expedition -of 1842—just in advance of a party of Osage -Indians. Maxwell had gone back to look for a lost -horse, and the Osages had promptly chased him into -camp, a distance of nine miles. The Osages drove off -a number of the best horses, but a hard chase of seven -or eight miles recovered them all.</p> - -<p>At this season of the year the streams were up, and -some difficulty was met with in crossing them. Game<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_416">416</a></span> -was scarce, for they were travelling through a region frequently -traversed by trapping and hunting parties of -Indians, and much pursuit had made the game watchful -and wild. Travel was so hard and slow, largely owing -to rain and mud, that when he reached Big Timber, -Fremont determined to divide his party, leaving Fitzpatrick—he -of the Broken Hand—with twenty-five men -in charge of the provisions and heavier baggage of the -camp; while Fremont, more lightly loaded, but taking a -wagon and the howitzer which had been furnished by -the United States arsenal at St. Louis, should proceed -ahead of the main party.</p> - -<p>On June 19 they crossed the Pawnee road to the Arkansas, -and suddenly came upon the first buffalo, half -a dozen bulls, which formed the vanguard of immense -herds, among which they journeyed for many days afterward. -The 4th of July found them at St. Vrain’s fort, -on the South Platte.</p> - -<p>Their live stock was now much run down, and their -stock of provisions fairly exhausted; but they found the -fort little better off than themselves, and quite without -surplus animals. Fremont, therefore, authorized Maxwell, -who was now about to separate from them and to -go on to Taos, to purchase there ten or twelve mules, -pack them with provisions, and meet him at the mouth -of the Fontaine qui bouit, on the Arkansas River.</p> - -<p>On the 6th of July, ten miles above St. Vrain’s fort, -the party passed Fort Lancaster, the trading-post of -Mr. Lupton. He had already established a farm on -the prairie, certainly one of the very earliest in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_417">417</a></span> -Trans-Missouri country. Horses, cattle, and hogs -ranged on the prairie; and there was poultry, and what -was left of a flourishing garden, which had just been -ruined by high water.</p> - -<p>The next day a large camp—one hundred and sixty -lodges—of Arapahoes was passed. They had many -horses and seemed prosperous.</p> - -<p>They were now about seven thousand five hundred -feet above the sea-level and travelling along prairies -from which the waters drained into the Arkansas, -Platte, and Kansas rivers. Pike’s Peak was in sight, -and farther to the south the Spanish Peaks.</p> - -<p>The next day they came upon the wagon-road to the -settlements on the Arkansas River, and in the afternoon -camped on the Fontaine qui bouit, which they followed -down, passing the camp of a hunter named Maurice, -who had been catching buffalo calves, a number of -which were seen among the cattle near his lodge. Here, -too, were a party of mountaineers, among whom were -several Connecticut men belonging to Wyeth’s party. -On the afternoon of July 14 they camped near a pueblo, -or town, where were settled a number of mountaineers -who had married Spanish women, and had formed -a farming settlement here. Fremont hoped that he -might have obtained some provisions from these people, -but as trade with the Spanish settlements was forbidden -he got nothing except milk, of which they had an abundance. -Fremont learned here that the Spanish Utes -were on the war-path and that there had been a popular -tumult among the civilized Indians near Taos, and so<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_418">418</a></span> -felt some natural anxiety about the safety of Maxwell. -By great good luck, however, he met here Carson, whom -he engaged once more, and sent him off to Charles Bent, -down the Arkansas River, to buy mules at Bent’s fort—Fort -William. Usually there was a large stock of animals -here, for the Indians, returning from their raids -into Mexico, often traded a part of their plunder for -goods.</p> - -<p>The party now returned to St. Vrain’s fort, which they -reached on the 23d. Here Fitzpatrick and his party -were found safe and well, and also Carson, who had -brought with him ten good mules with the necessary -pack animals. The provisions which Fitzpatrick had -brought and over which he had watched with great care, -were very welcome to the hungry explorers. At this -post the Delaware Indians determined to return to their -home. Fremont made up his mind that he would try -the pass through which the Câche-à-la-Poudre flowed, -and he again divided the party, sending Fitzpatrick -across the plains to the mouth of the Laramie River, to -follow the usual emigrant trail and to meet him at Fort -Hall. Fremont with thirteen men was to take the longer -road about. He started up the Câche-à-la-Poudre, -marched westward through the Medicine Bow Mountains -to the North Platte River, which he crossed. The -way was not exceptionally difficult except for the fact -that it ran through large and tough bushes of sage -brush, which made the hauling hard. Buffalo were -abundant and food was plenty. Indeed, so many were -killed that they spent a day or two in camp drying meat<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_419">419</a></span> -as provision for the future. While they were occupied -at this, they were charged by about seventy mounted -Indians, but these were seen by the horse guard, the -horses driven into camp and the party took up a defensive -position in a grove of timber, so that the Indians, -just before the howitzer was fired at them, halted and -explained that they had taken the camp for one of hostile -Indians. This war-party was one of Arapahoes -and Cheyennes, returning unsuccessful from a journey -against their enemies, the Shoshoni. They had lost -several men and were not in a very pleasant frame of -mind.</p> - -<p>From here, turning south, the party struck across to -the Sweetwater River and at length reached the trail to -the Oregon, being thus on the same ground that they -had traversed the previous year. Green River, then -called Prairie-Hen River, was reached August 16, and -something is said of the impressions among the residents -in the country about the lower course of the Colorado. -Says Fremont: “From many descriptions of trappers it -is probable that in its foaming course among its lofty -precipices it presents many scenes of wild grandeur; and -though offering many temptations, and often discussed, -no trappers have been found bold enough to undertake -a voyage which has so certain a prospect of a fatal termination. -The Indians have strange stories of beautiful -valleys abounding with beaver shut up among inaccessible -walls of rock in the lower course of the river, and to -which the neighboring Indians, in their occasional wars -with the Spaniards and among themselves, drive their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_420">420</a></span> -herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, leaving them to pasture -in perfect security.” Fremont was ignorant that -nearly eighteen years before Ashley had descended the -Green River in a boat, and had inscribed his name and a -date on the rock which was seen there by Major J. W. -Powell more than forty years later. But Ashley’s expedition -did not get much farther than the mouth of Ashley -River, where it was wrecked and the trip abandoned.</p> - -<p>Not long after crossing Green River they passed quite -near Bridger’s fort, and then sent Carson on to Fort -Hall to secure provisions, while Fremont with his party -went on to Bear River. Following down this stream -they met a party of emigrants, saw more or less game in -the way of antelope and elk, and, on approaching the -Shoshoni village, were charged by the Indians, who supposed -the white men a party of Sioux, because they carried -a flag regarded by these people as an emblem of -hostility, being usually carried by the Sioux, and the -neighboring mountain Indians when they came against -the Shoshoni to war. The true character of Fremont’s -party was recognized by the Indians before they got near -them and they were kindly received in the village and obtained -provisions there. Further down the stream the -celebrated Beer Springs, “which, on account of the effervescing -gas and acid taste, have received their name -from the voyageurs and trappers of the country, who, in -the midst of their rude and hard lives, are fond of finding -some fancied resemblance to the luxuries they rarely -have the fortune to enjoy.” The water of some of these -springs is hot, and has a pungent and disagreeable metallic<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_421">421</a></span> -taste leaving a burning effect on the tongue. The -Beer, or Soda Springs, are of the same character as the -boiling springs at the foot of Pike’s Peak, but those are -not hot.</p> - -<p>It was in the neighborhood of Bear River that Fremont -and his party first came in contact with the Indians -which he calls Root Diggers, and which in those old -times were spoken of as Digger Indians. They are various -tribes and bands of Pah-utes, occupying the desert -country of the Rocky Mountains, whose subsistence is -derived chiefly from roots and seeds, and from such -small animals as they capture.</p> - -<p>The country which Fremont was crossing had formerly -abounded in game, but the buffalo had all disappeared. -Even as early as this (1843), attention had -been called to the disappearance of the buffalo, and Fremont -says: “The extraordinary rapidity with which the -buffalo is disappearing from our territories will not appear -surprising when we remember the great scale on -which their destruction is yearly carried on. With inconsiderable -exceptions, the business of the American -trading-posts is carried on in their skins; every year -the Indian villages make new lodges for which the skin -of the buffalo furnishes the material; and in that portion -of the country where they are still found, the Indians -derive their entire support from them and slaughter -them with a thoughtless and abominable extravagance. -Like the Indians themselves, they have been a characteristic -of the Great West; and as, like them, they are visibly -diminishing, it will be interesting to throw a glance<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_422">422</a></span> -backward through the last twenty years and give some -account of their former distribution through the country -and the limit of their western range.</p> - -<p>“The information is derived principally from Mr. -Fitzpatrick, supported by my own personal knowledge -and acquaintance with the country. Our knowledge -does not go farther back than the spring of 1824, at -which time the buffalo were spread in immense numbers -over the Green River and Bear River valleys, and -through all the country lying between the Colorado, or -Green River, of the Gulf of California, and Lewis’ fork -of the Columbia River; the meridian of Fort Hall then -forming the western limit of their range. The buffalo -then remained for many years in that country and frequently -moved down the valley of the Columbia on both -sides of the river as far as the <i>Fishing Falls</i>. Below -this point they never descended in any numbers. About -the year 1834 or 1835 they began to diminish very rapidly -and continued to decrease until 1838 or 1840, when, -with the country we have just described, they entirely -abandoned all the waters of the Pacific north of Lewis’ -fork of the Columbia. At that time the Flathead Indians -were in the habit of finding their buffalo on the -heads of Salmon River, and other streams of the Columbia; -but now they never meet with them farther west -than the three forks of the Missouri or the plains of the -Yellowstone River.</p> - -<p>“In the course of our journey it will be remembered -that the buffalo have not so entirely abandoned the -waters of the Pacific, in the Rocky Mountain region<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_423">423</a></span> -South of the Sweetwater, as in the country North of the -Great Pass. This partial distribution can only be accounted -for in the great pastoral beauty of that country, -which bears marks of having long been one of their -favorite haunts, and by the fact that the white hunters -have more frequented the Northern than the Southern -region—it being North of the South Pass that the hunters, -trappers and traders have had their rendezvous for -many years past; and from that section also the greater -portion of the beaver and rich furs were taken, although -always the most dangerous as well as the most profitable -hunting ground.</p> - -<p>“In that region lying between the Green or Colorado -River and the head waters of the Rio del Norte, over the -<i>Yampah</i>, <i>Kooyah</i>, <i>White</i>, and <i>Grand</i> rivers—all of which -are the waters of the Colorado—the buffalo never extended -so far to the westward as they did on the waters -of the Columbia; and only in one or two instances have -they been known to descend as far west as the mouth of -the White River. In travelling through the country west -of the Rocky Mountains, observations readily led me to -the impression that the buffalo had, for the first time, -crossed that range to the waters of the Pacific only a few -years prior to the period we are considering and in this -opinion I am sustained by Mr. Fitzpatrick and the older -trappers in that country. In the region West of the Rocky -Mountains we never meet with any of the ancient vestiges -which throughout all the country lying upon their Eastern -waters are found in the <em>great highways</em>, continuous -for hundreds of miles, always several inches and sometimes<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_424">424</a></span> -several feet in depth which the buffalo have made -in crossing from one river to another or in traversing the -mountain ranges. The Snake Indians, more particularly -those low down upon Lewis’ fork, have always been -very grateful to the American trappers for the great kindness -(as they frequently expressed it) which they did to -them in driving the buffalo so low down the Columbia -River.</p> - -<p>“The extraordinary abundance of the buffalo on the -east side of the Rocky Mountains and their extraordinary -diminution will be made clearly evident from the -following statement: At any time between the years -1824 and 1836 a traveller might start from any given -point South or North in the Rocky Mountain range, -journeying by the most direct route to the Missouri -River, and, during the whole distance, his road would -be always among large bands of buffalo, which would -never be out of his view until he arrived almost within -sight of the abodes of civilization.</p> - -<p>“At this time the buffalo occupy but a very limited -space, principally along the Eastern base of the Rocky -Mountains, sometimes extending at their Southern -extremity to a considerable distance into the plains -between the Platte and Arkansas Rivers and along the -Eastern frontier of New Mexico as far South as Texas.</p> - -<p>“The following statement, which I owe to the kindness -of Mr. Sanford, a partner in the American Fur -Company, will further illustrate this subject by extensive -knowledge acquired during several years of -travel through the region inhabited by the buffalo:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_425">425</a></span> -“‘The total amount of robes annually traded by ourselves -and others will not be found to differ much from -the following statement:</p> - -<table class="p1" summary="total amount of robes annually"> - <tr class="small"> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr">ROBES.</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">American Fur Company</td> - <td class="tdr">70,000</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Hudson Bay Company</td> - <td class="tdr">10,000</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">All other companies, probably</td> - <td class="tdr">10,000</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl in2">Making a total of</td> - <td class="tdr bt">90,000</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="p1 in0">as an average annual return for the last eight or ten -years.</p> - -<p>“‘In the Northwest, the Hudson’s Bay Company purchased -from the Indians but a very small number—their -only market being Canada, to which the cost of transportation -nearly equals the produce of the furs; and it is only -within a very recent period that they have received buffalo -robes in trade; and out of the great number of buffalo -annually killed throughout the extensive regions inhabited -by the Camanches and other kindred tribes, no -robes whatever are furnished for trade. During only -four months of the year (from November until March) -the skins are good for dressing; those obtained in the -remaining eight months being valueless to traders, and -the hides of bulls are never taken off or dressed as robes -at any season. Probably not more than one-third of the -skins are taken from the animals killed, even when they -are in good season, the labor of preparing and dressing -the robes being very great, and it is seldom that a lodge -trades more than twenty skins in a year. It is during -the summer months, and in the early part of autumn -that the greatest number of buffalo are killed, and yet<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_426">426</a></span> -at this time a skin is never taken for the purpose of -trade.’...”</p> - -<p>Fremont’s party at this time was on short allowance -of food. Word had been sent to Carson to bring from -Fort Hall a pack animal loaded with provisions, for there -was no game in the country and it was hard to purchase -food of any kind from the Indians.</p> - -<p>On September 3 Carson rode into camp with provisions -sufficient for a few days. The party kept on down -Bear River, and on the 6th from the top of a hill saw the -Great Salt Lake.</p> - -<p>Up to this time this lake had been seen by comparatively -few white people; in fact, only by trappers who -were wintering through the country in search of beaver -and who cared for geography only so far as it helped -them on their way. No white man’s boat had ever -floated on its dense waters, its islands had never been -visited, and no one had made a survey of its shores or -even passed all around it. Among trappers it was generally -believed that while the lake had no visible outlet -there was somewhere in it a tremendous whirlpool -through which its waters flowed out by a subterranean -channel to the ocean.</p> - -<p>All these facts and beliefs made Fremont very anxious -to visit the lake and survey it; and having with him a -rubber boat he had high hopes of what he might accomplish. -However, since the party was on short allowance, -the provisions which Carson had brought with him being -now exhausted, he sent back to Fort Hall seven of his -extra men under the charge of François Lajeunesse.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_427">427</a></span> -The party was now reduced to eight, five of whom were -to make the first voyage of discovery on the Great Salt -Lake, while three should remain on the shore as camp -keepers. It was only now discovered that the boat was -badly put together, and when put in the water and -loaded it leaked air in rather a serious way, so that the -constant use of the bellows was needed to keep it afloat. -Fortunately they had good weather at starting, for the -day was very calm; and they reached one of the islands -to find the rocks along the water’s edge encrusted with -salt, and a windrow from ten to twenty feet in breadth, -consisting of the larvae of some small insect which inhabited -the water, and had been washed up on the shore. -These worms, so called, are the common food of certain -tribes of Indians living in the neighborhood of these salt -or alkaline lakes. There was little on the island to attract -explorers, and in view of the frail nature of their -craft, and the danger of storms, they did not stay long, -but re-embarking reached the shore at a point quite distant -from their camp. Food continued scarce and a day -or two later they killed a horse for food.</p> - -<p>At Fort Hall a few horses and oxen were purchased, -the latter for food, and here Fremont sent back eleven -of his men, among them Basil Lajeunesse, a good man -whom Fremont was sorry to lose. Leaving Fort Hall -September 22 the journey was continued down Snake -River.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_428">428</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX<br /> - -<span class="subhead">FREMONT</span> - -<span class="subhead">IV</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">Keeping</span> on down Snake River, sometimes in its -valley, sometimes, to avoid bad travelling, marching -back on the hills, the party went on. Before -long the Grand Rond was passed; and soon after this -they entered the timber, through a part of which they -were obliged to cut their way.</p> - -<p>When the missionary station, occupied by Dr. Whitman, -was reached, it was found that he was absent on a -visit to the Dalles of the Columbia; but here were seen -a party of emigrants—men, women, and children—all -in good health, and living largely on potatoes, which -even then were raised here of good quality and in some -quantity.</p> - -<p>All the trading-posts in the Oregon country were still -controlled by the Hudson’s Bay people, but all received -Fremont cordially, and helped him on his way. They -crossed John Day’s river, the Des Chutes, called by Fremont -Rivière aux Chutes. At the Dalles was a comfortable -settlement: “Two good-looking wooden dwelling -houses, and a large school house, with stables, barn and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_429">429</a></span> -garden, and large cleared fields between the houses and -the river bank, on which were scattered the wooden huts -of an Indian village.” Here the party again divided, -Fremont leaving a part of his people at the Dalles with -Carson, while he and Mr. Preuss went on down the river -by canoe.</p> - -<p>The new mode of travel seemed very delightful to men -who had been for months journeying on foot and on -horseback over a rough country. It was very pleasant -to float along down the broad stream, camping from -time to time to build their fires, and cook the fat salmon, -and potatoes and coffee, which they had, with bread and -sugar—luxuries to which they had long been strangers. -It was a motley group, but a contented one. Three Indians -assisted in paddling the canoe, while the commander -of the expedition, the German, Preuss, the Frenchman, -Bernier, and the colored man, Jacob, floated onward to -the sea. Fremont’s eagerness to reach Fort Vancouver -led him to travel during a part of each night; and for the -greater part of the voyage they had beautiful weather, -made good progress, and enjoyed the wonderful scenery. -They were now in sight of the splendid Cascade range, -and of the towering peaks of Mount Hood, St. Helens, -and, later, Mount Rainier. As they passed on down the -river the hills grew lower, and presently, one night, they -heard the noise of a sawmill at work on the bank, and -camped not far from Fort Vancouver. Here, Dr. McLaughlin, -the executive officer of the Hudson’s Bay -Company for the territory West of the Rocky Mountains, -received the travellers with that courtesy and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_430">430</a></span> -hospitality for which he was so well known, and concerning -which all those who passed through the region -in early days spoke with so much gratitude.</p> - -<p>About the fort were many American emigrants, some -of them in a more or less destitute condition, but all of -them supplied with the necessaries of life by the kindly -Hudson’s Bay officer, who allowed them to pay for what -they had by their labor.</p> - -<p>From Dr. McLaughlin Fremont procured three -months’ provisions, and through his kindness was enabled -also to secure men and boats to transport these -provisions up the river to the camp of his main party -at the Dalles. The return journey was slow with the -laden boats, for they were obliged to cordelle the Mackinaw -along the shore, being unable to overcome the swift -water by their oars.</p> - -<p>From the Dalles it was Fremont’s purpose to go South, -on the West side of the Cascade range, as far as Klamath -Lake—by Fremont written Tlamath Lake; thence -south to the reputed Buenaventura River, which is said -to empty into San Francisco Bay; thence across the -desert to the Rocky Mountains, opposite the headwaters -of the Arkansas River, and there, crossing the mountains, -to follow down the Arkansas to Bent’s Fort, and -so back to St. Louis. Much of this region had never -been passed over by a surveyor. To make this trip at -the beginning of winter, the party consisted of twenty-five -men, with one hundred and four mules and horses, -and a few California cattle, to be driven along as food -for the company.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_431">431</a></span> -After leaving the Dalles, Fremont’s whole party were -occupied in making the necessary preparations for the -start into this new region. Horses were purchased, provisions -accumulated, all unnecessary baggage cut out -and left behind, and the little wagon which had hitherto -carried the instruments given to the mission. The -howitzer, however, was to be taken with them. Here -a Chinook Indian, nineteen years old, who had expressed -a desire to see the whites, was permitted to join the -party.</p> - -<p>They started November 25 and followed along the -plateau on the east flanks of the Cascade range, and so -on the western side of the Fall River. The weather -was cold and the streams frozen along the edges, while -snow lay on the ground. When the sky cleared superb -views were had of Mounts St. Helens, Hood, Rainier, -Jefferson and other mountains of what is now called the -Presidential range. The weather grew colder and the -road more rough, it being over volcanic plains, often -interrupted by deep gulches or stream valleys. They -were now passing through the country of the Nez Percé, -the Cayuse, and certain tribes of Diggers, and from -their Indian guides heard more or less alarming accounts -of the fierceness and treachery of the Indians before -them. December 10 they reached Klamath Lake and -saw smoke arising from different points about it. -Here, for the purpose of encouraging their guides, who -evidently felt very shaky about the local Indians, and -alarming the latter, Fremont caused the howitzer to be -fired with a shell, and tells that “the bursting of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_432">432</a></span> -shell at a distance, which was something like a second -fire of the gun, amazed and bewildered them with delight. -It inspired them (the guides) with triumphant -feelings, but on the camps at a distance the effect was -different, for the smokes in the lake and on the shores -immediately disappeared.”</p> - -<p>The next day Fremont set out to look up the Indians, -and before long came near to a village from which two -people were seen advancing to meet them.</p> - -<p>“We were surprised, on riding up, to find one of them -a woman, having never before known a squaw to take -any part in the business of war. They were the village -chief and his wife, who, in excitement and alarm at the -unusual event and appearance, had come out to meet -their fate together. The chief was a very prepossessing -Indian, with very handsome features, and a singularly -soft and agreeable voice—so remarkable as to attract -general notice.</p> - -<p>“The huts were grouped together on the bank of the -river, which, from being spread out in a shallow marsh -at the upper end of the lake, was collected here into a -single stream. They were large, round huts, perhaps -twenty feet in diameter, with rounded tops, on which was -the door by which they descended into the interior. -Within, they were supported by posts and beams.</p> - -<p>“Almost like plants these people seemed to have -adapted themselves to the soil, and to be growing on -what the immediate locality afforded. Their only subsistence -at this time appeared to be a small fish, great -quantities of which, that had been smoked and dried,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_433">433</a></span> -were suspended on strings about the lodge. Heaps of -straw were lying around, and their residence in the midst -of grass and rushes had taught them a peculiar skill in -converting this material to useful purposes. Their -shoes were made of straw or grass, which seemed well -adapted for a snowy country, and the women wore on -their heads a closely woven basket, which made a very -good cap. Among other things were parti-colored mats -about four feet square, which we purchased to lay on the -snow under our blankets and to use for table-cloths.</p> - -<p>“Numbers of singular-looking dogs, resembling -wolves, were sitting on the tops of the huts, and of these -we purchased a young one, which, after its birthplace, -was named Tlamath. The language spoken by these -Indians is different from that of the Shoshone and Columbia -River tribes, and otherwise than by signs they -cannot understand each other. They made us comprehend -that they were at war with the people who lived -to the southward and to the eastward, but I could obtain -from them no certain information. The river on -which they live enters the Cascade Mountains on the -western side of the lake, and breaks through them by -a passage impracticable for travellers, but over the -mountains to the northward are passes which present no -other obstacle than in the almost impenetrable forests. -Unlike any Indians we had previously seen these wore -shells in their noses. We returned to our camp, after -remaining here an hour or two, accompanied by a number -of Indians.”</p> - -<p>Like many other persons since that time, Fremont<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_434">434</a></span> -was much impressed by the attractions of Klamath -Lake, and he stopped here a short time to rest his animals. -From this point on there were no maps, and -practically nothing could be learned of the country from -the Indians, although they drew rough maps in the effort -to direct the explorers. The road before them was -hard and difficult, much of it through heavy forest, -made hard to travel by fallen trees, and by snow, which -was constantly growing deeper. After two or three -very laborious and most uncertain days, they came suddenly -to the edge of a precipice, from which they could -look over into a green and sunshiny valley below, partly -filled by a great lake, which, from its appearance, Fremont -called Summer Lake. It stands so on the map to-day. -The descent from the mountain was a difficult -one, but at last a way was found. It was impossible, -however, to reach the shores of the lake, on account of -the deep mud. However, streams of good water were -passed at sufficient intervals. They had now left the -forest behind them, and their fuel consisted of willow -twigs and sage brush. A little farther along another -lake was approached, called Lake Abert, after Colonel -Abert, then the Chief of Engineers. The water of this -lake, however, was very bad. Everywhere about this -lake were signs of Digger Indians, and about this time -they came upon a broad trail over which horses had -passed. Most of the country was sterile, and as they -crossed the mountains, from the watershed of these -lakes, they found snow a foot deep.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_435">435</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX<br /> - -<span class="subhead">FREMONT</span> - -<span class="subhead">V</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap1">New Year’s Day</span> found them travelling through -the desert, over a rough, sandy road. The next -day they reached a field of hot springs, the vapor -from which was visible a long way off. Fremont was -growing uneasy. He had very little idea where he was. -There appeared to be no game in the country, except -hares, though occasional signs were seen of sheep and -antelope. His animals had begun to die, and he felt the -necessity of proceeding with great caution. Because -of the uncertainty of water for his animals, he formed the -plan of exploring the country in advance each day, and -leaving the main party behind. On January 10, a beautiful -lake, some twenty miles broad, was seen from the -top of a ridge, and they proceeded toward it. On the -way herds of mountain-sheep were seen on the hills. -When they came on a little stream about a mile from -the margin of the lake, they found a broad Indian trail -following the shores of the lake to the southward. This -was followed for a short distance, and then ascended a -precipice, against which the water dashed below, and it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_436">436</a></span> -was very difficult to get the howitzer along this trail. -Mountain-sheep in numbers, and ducks, and some fish -were seen, and the party passed the pyramid which -rises out of the lake and gives it its name. The last of -the cattle driven from the Dalles was killed here for -food. On January 15 a few Indians made their appearance -about the camp, and one of them was persuaded -to come into it. It was difficult to communicate -with him; but from what he said, it was inferred that at -the end of the lake was a river, which subsequent investigation -showed ran into the lake, which has no outlet. -Here, to the great delight of the white men, the -Indians brought in fish to trade. Fremont calls them -salmon trout, and says that they were from two to four -feet in length. They appeared to form the chief food -of these Indians, who, Fremont says, hold the fishery -in exclusive possession, and who are different from the -“Digger” Indians so frequently spoken of in crossing -the desert. It appeared that these Indians were in communication -either with the whites or with other Indians -knowing the whites, for they possessed articles of civilized -manufacture.</p> - -<p>The party now followed up the stream running into -Pyramid Lake, travelling along toward the Sierra Nevada -Mountains. They were on an Indian trail, and -hoped soon to find the Buenaventura River, for which -they had been looking. Columns of smoke rising over -the country at intervals made them sure that the Indians -were notifying each other that strangers had come -into the country. Their animals were growing thin<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_437">437</a></span> -and weak; their feet were much worn away by the -rocks, and many of them were lame. Fremont decided, -therefore, that he must abandon his course to -the eastward and must cross the mountains into the -valley of the Sacramento River as soon as possible.</p> - -<p>Keeping on southward along the mountains, they -crossed streams issuing from them which tempted them -to try for a pass; but the heavy snows which appeared -to lie on the mountains induced the leader to keep on -farther southward. January 24 an Indian came into -the camp and offered the strangers a little bag of pine -nuts, which they purchased from him. They also gave -him some presents; and as nearly as they could understand -his signs he promised to conduct them to the -opening of a pass of which he knew. From here on -they constantly saw Indians, all of whom traded pine -nuts to them, and all were armed with bows and stone-pointed -arrows. The level of the country appeared to -be growing higher, and the snow grew deeper. They -put one of their guides on a horse, but he was evidently -unacquainted with the animal, and did not even know -how to guide it. Soon they entered the range, and having -left the desert country, found a country well timbered, -and which appeared to produce considerable -game. They climbed to the head of the stream, passed -over a ridge, and saw from the summit a sunlit country -where there was evidently grass. Here the Indians -were wearing snow-shoes, and accompanied the party, -running around them, and swiftly and easily travelling -over the snow. They appeared to have no idea of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_438">438</a></span> -power of fire-arms, and thought themselves perfectly -safe so long as they kept out of arm’s reach.</p> - -<p>Descending on the head of this next stream, Fremont -learned, before he had gone very far, that this was -merely the head of another stream running eastward -into the Great Basin, and that they still had to cross a -great ridge before they could reach Pacific waters.</p> - -<p>The Indians here had heard of a party of twelve white -men who, two years before, had ascended the river and -crossed to the other side; but this was done when it was -summer-time and there was little or no snow to oppose -the passage; and at present the Indians declared it could -not be done. Nevertheless, they agreed to furnish a -guide to take the whites as far as possible. Provisions -were now getting low, and consisted chiefly of pease, a -little flour, some coffee, and a quantity of sugar. It -was on this day, January 29, that the howitzer, which -had been dragged so far, was finally abandoned. On -January 31 they continued to climb the mountains -among the snow. Indians kept visiting them in greater -and greater numbers, and from all were heard most -discouraging accounts of the possibility of crossing the -range. An old man told them that if they could break -through the snow, at the end of three days they would -come upon grass, which would be about six inches high; -and here Fremont decided to attempt the passage and -to try to reach Sutter’s ranch on the Sacramento. Preparations -were made, therefore, to face the cold of the -heights, and clothing was repaired and put in order, and -a new guide was engaged, who was also fitted out with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_439">439</a></span> -special reference to the hardships likely to be met with. -A dog that had been with them for some little time was -killed, and this, with a few rabbits purchased from the -Indians, gave the party a strengthening meal.</p> - -<p>When they started, the snow soon became so deep -that it was absolutely necessary that a road should be -broken for the animals. This was done in systematic -fashion, and for several days they advanced by very -short marches, but without meeting any obstacles -greater than the depth of the snow. Sometimes the -lack of feed at the end of the day’s march would render -it necessary to send back the animals to feed at some -point on the trail just passed over, where there was good -pasture. Two or three days of this hard work was very -discouraging. However, Fremont’s energy never faltered. -He and Carson and Fitzpatrick, on snow-shoes, -went ahead, reconnoitring in all directions and trying -to pick out a good road, and on February 6 they reached -a peak from which they saw the valley of the Sacramento; -and Carson recognized various natural features -which he had not seen for fifteen years.</p> - -<p>The difficulties of travel for the horses was so great, -and the hillsides so steep, that many of the animals found -the greatest difficulty in getting along themselves and -could not carry their loads. Sledges were made, therefore, -on which the men drew the baggage over the snow; -but of course this made progress very slow indeed. The -hunters went out to look for game, but found none.</p> - -<p>It was on February 20 that they camped with the animals -that were left, and with all the material of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_440">440</a></span> -camp, on the summit of a pass in the dividing ridge, -about a thousand miles from the Dalles, whence they -had started. The prospects of the descent were not -promising. Before them were rough mountains, among -which lay deep fields of snow; but shortly after they -started on their way, they heard the roll of thunder, -and looking toward the valley saw a thunder-storm in -progress. As the sky cleared, they could see a shining -line of water leading toward another broader and larger -sheet; and in these they recognized the Sacramento -River and the bay of San Francisco. Yet so frequent -had been their disappointments during their wanderings -through the rough mountains that they hardly dared to -believe that they were at last to penetrate the warm, -pleasing country where they should be free from the -hardships and exposure of the last few months. This -night they killed a mule for food, and again the next -night. February 23 was their hardest day, for they -were forced to travel along steep and slippery mountainsides, -where moisture, snow, and ice, together with the -tough evergreens of the mountain, made walking difficult -and wearisome; but on this night a storm showered -upon them rain and not snow. The men, exhausted by -the labor of travel and by the lack of food, were beginning -to lose strength and courage.</p> - -<p>However, now they were constantly descending. -The thermometer was just about freezing, and they had -left the Sierras behind. The green grass was beginning -to make its appearance. The river was descending -rapidly, and growing larger. Soon they came to deciduous<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_441">441</a></span> -trees and a warmer atmosphere. The country was -covered with growing plants, and the voices of singing -birds were heard in the summer air. They were still -killing the horses for food.</p> - -<p>Fremont now believed that the main difficulties of -the road were over, and leaving Fitzpatrick to follow -slowly with the main camp, he started ahead with a -party of eight, intending to reach Mr. Sutter’s house -as soon as possible, and to return with provisions and -fresh animals for the party. Fitzpatrick was left in -command of the others, with instructions to bring on -the animals slowly, for all were very weak.</p> - -<p>But they were not yet out of their troubles. For -much of the way the river ran through narrow canyons, -and the travellers were obliged to clamber along the -mountain side, over a road rough and almost impassable -for their enfeebled live-stock. However, at their camps -they found grass. As they went on they were obliged to -leave their animals behind, and Fremont left his favorite -horse, Proveau, which could no longer keep up. One -of the men started back to bring the horse, but did not -return until the second day, when it was apparent that -his mind was deranged. This day Mr. Preuss, who had -gone ahead, did not appear at night, and his absence -caused much anxiety. The next day they met some -Indians, and kept on down the river, still continuing -their search for the lost man. They came upon tracks -of Indians, little piles of mussel shells and old fires where -they had cooked. On March 4 they came on an Indian -village, where they found houses, and near each one a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_442">442</a></span> -store-house of acorns. In the houses were basketfuls -of roasted acorns, and although the Indians had fled, -the travellers supplied themselves with this food, leaving -various small articles in payment. In a village not far -below three Indian women were captured. They were -much frightened, but, encouraged by good treatment, -offered food. This night Mr. Preuss came in, very -weak from starvation, but not otherwise in bad condition. -He had subsisted on roots, ants, frogs, and had -received some acorns from Indians whom he met.</p> - -<p>At the next village Indians were found wearing shirts -of civilized manufacture, and then they came to another -and larger village, where the people were dressed more -or less in European clothing. Here was a man who -could speak Spanish, a vaquero in the service of Captain -Sutter, whose fort was but a short distance away. At -the fort Fremont was met by Captain Sutter, who gave -him a cordial reception, and a night of enjoyment of all -the luxuries that he had so long been without. The -next day, with fresh horses and provisions, Fremont -hurried back to meet Fitzpatrick, and brought in the -rest of the party. The second division had had a hard -time, having lost many animals; so that of the sixty-seven -horses and mules with which they started to cross -the Sierras, only thirty-three reached the valley of the -Sacramento. The beef, the bread, and the salmon, -which Fremont brought, put heart into the starving men, -and before long they had reached a permanent camp -not far from Sutter’s fort.</p> - -<p>Captain Sutter had come to California from the western<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_443">443</a></span> -part of Missouri in 1838–39, and had settled in the -Sacramento valley on a large grant of land received from -the Mexican Government. Though he had at first had -some trouble with the Indians, he succeeded, by his judicious -treatment, in converting them into a peaceable -and industrious people. They did practically all the -work of the ranch, and were paid in shirts, blankets, -and articles of clothing. The soil was fertile, and its -yield ample. Cattle and horses were abundant. He -had a number of mechanics, who made whatever he -needed.</p> - -<p>The blacksmith of Fremont’s party, desiring to remain -in California, was here discharged, as were also -four others of the party. Derosier, one of the best men -in the outfit, the one who a few days before had gone -back after Fremont’s horse, wandered away from the -camp and never returned.</p> - -<p>On March 24 the party having recovered from the -suffering endured in crossing the mountains, and being -now once more strong, set out to continue their journey. -An ample stock of provisions had been secured, and a -fresh supply of animals, consisting of one hundred and -thirty horses and mules, and about thirty head of cattle, -were also secured. An Indian herder was furnished by -Captain Sutter to look after the stock, a great part of -which was absolutely wild. From this point it was purposed -to go south, up the valley of the San Joaquin, to -a pass at its head. Thence they were to move south-eastwardly -to reach the Spanish trail, which led to Santa -Fé. Their southward journey was delightful. Fremont<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_444">444</a></span> -speaks in terms of enthusiasm of the flowers they -met with, of the beautiful groves of oaks, the songs of -the birds, the sweet odors that perfumed the air. Elk -and antelope were in great abundance, and the wild -horses were so numerous that the travellers feared for the -safety of the wild stock they were driving with them. -On April 7 they crossed the divide between the headwaters -of the San Joaquin and the Tulé Lakes. The -passage brought with it more or less change in climate -and a distinct change in surroundings. Indians were -met with constantly, and most of them seemed well disposed. -As they lowered their altitude, after passing -over the divide, the way became more rough, though -the feed for the animals was still good.</p> - -<p>Fortunately Fremont’s party was ahead of the annual -Santa Fé caravans, which insured them good grass at the -camping places. They had not gone far before they -met parties of Mohave Indians, who seemed friendly -enough; but on the day following, two Spaniards, a man -and a lad, came into camp telling of their party of six -having been attacked by Indians, about eighty miles -beyond the encampment. They had with them about -thirty horses, and were suddenly attacked by a party -of Indians, who had previously been in camp and seemed -friendly. The horse guards—the two who had just -come into Fremont’s camp—drove their animals through -the attacking party and escaped with their horses, -which they had left about twenty miles behind on coming -to Fremont’s camp. When the white men came to -the place where the horses had been left, it appeared<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_445">445</a></span> -that the animals had been driven off by Indians. Carson -and Godey with the Mexican Fuentes started after -them; but in the evening the Mexican returned, his -horse having given out.</p> - -<p>“In the afternoon of the next day a warwhoop was -heard, such as Indians make when returning from a -victorious enterprise, and soon Carson and Godey appeared, -driving before them a band of horses, recognized -by Fuentes to be part of those they had lost. Two -bloody scalps, dangling from the end of Godey’s gun, -announced that they had overtaken the Indians as well -as the horses. They informed us that after Fuentes -left them, from the failure of his horse, they continued -the pursuit alone, and toward nightfall entered the -mountains, into which the trail led. After sunset the -moon gave light, and they followed the trail by moonshine -until late in the night, when it entered a narrow -defile and was difficult to follow. Afraid of losing it -in the darkness of the defile, they tied up their horses, -struck no fire, and lay down to sleep in silence and in -darkness. Here they lay from midnight till morning. -At daylight they resumed the pursuit, and about sunrise -discovered the horses, and immediately dismounting and -tying up their own, they crept cautiously to a rising -ground which intervened, from the crest of which they -perceived the encampment of four lodges close by. -They proceeded quietly, and had got within thirty or -forty yards of their object when a movement among the -horses disclosed them to the Indians. Giving the war -shout, they instantly charged into the camp, regardless<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_446">446</a></span> -of the number which the four lodges would imply. The -Indians received them with a flight of arrows shot from -their long bows, one of which passed through Godey’s -shirt collar, barely missing the neck. Our men fired -their rifles upon a steady aim, and rushed in. Two Indians -were stretched on the ground, fatally pierced with -bullets; the rest fled, except a lad that was captured. -The scalps of the fallen were instantly stripped off; but -in the process, one of them, who had two balls through -his body, sprung to his feet, the blood streaming from -his skinned head, and uttering a hideous howl. An old -squaw, possibly his mother, stopped and looked back -from the mountain-side she was climbing, threatening -and lamenting. The frightful spectacle appalled the -stout hearts of our men; but they did what humanity -required, and quickly terminated the agonies of the gory -savage. They were now masters of the camp, which -was a pretty little recess in the mountain, with a fine -spring, and apparently safe from all invasion. Great -preparations had been made to feast a large party, for -it was a very proper place for a rendezvous, and for the -celebration of such orgies as robbers of the desert would -delight in. Several of the best horses had been killed, -skinned and cut up, for the Indians, living in mountains -and only coming into the plains to rob and murder, -make no other use of horses than to eat them. Large -earthen vessels were on the fire, boiling and stewing the -horse beef, and several baskets containing fifty or sixty -pairs of moccasins indicated the presence or expectation -of a considerable party. They released the boy, who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_447">447</a></span> -had given strong evidence of the stoicism or something -else of the savage character, by commencing his breakfast -upon a horse’s head as soon as he found he was not -to be killed, but only tied as a prisoner. Their object -accomplished, our men gathered up all the surviving -horses, fifteen in number, returned upon their trail, and -rejoined us at our camp in the afternoon of the same -day. They rode about one hundred miles in the pursuit -and return, and all in thirty hours. The time, place, -object and numbers considered, this expedition of Carson -and Godey may be considered among the boldest -and most disinterested which the annals of western -adventure, so full of daring deeds, can present. Two -men, in a savage desert, pursue day and night an unknown -body of Indians into the defiles of an unknown -mountain, attack them on sight without counting numbers, -and defeat them in an instant—and for what? -To punish the robbers of the desert, and to avenge the -wrongs of Mexicans whom they did not know. I repeat, -it was Carson and Godey who did this—the -former an American, born in the Boonslick county of -Missouri; the latter a Frenchman, born in St. Louis—and -both trained to western enterprise from early -life.”</p> - -<p>A little later the party came to the place where the -Mexicans had been attacked. There were found the -two men of the party, both killed by arrows; but -of the women there was no trace, they having evidently -been carried away. Journeying onward, making short -marches, and some that were very long, they kept on<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_448">448</a></span> -along the Spanish trail. May 4—the longest journey -of all, between fifty and sixty miles without any water—the -skeletons of horses were constantly seen along the -trail. “Hourly expecting to find water, we continued -to press on, until toward midnight, when, after a hard -and uninterrupted march of sixteen hours, our wild -mules began running ahead, and in a mile or two we -came to a bold running stream—so keen is the sense of -that animal, in these desert regions, in scenting at a -distance this necessary of life.”</p> - -<p>The next day was spent in camp, that the animals -might rest and feed. Indians were about them constantly, -and apparently tried to steal their horses. They -were very bold and insolent, but the whites bore it all, -being unwilling to be drawn into a fight. These were -the same people who had murdered the Mexicans; -they were barefooted and nearly naked; the men were -armed with bows and arrows, each carrying a quiver -of thirty or forty shafts. The arrow-heads were made of -clear, translucent stone, and Fremont says, “Shot from -their long bows are almost as effective as a gun shot.” -A chief came into camp, and declared his confidence -in himself and his people, and his belief that they could -destroy the white men, merely on the ground that they -were many while the whites were few. The Indians -were seen hunting lizards, which they dragged from a -hole by means of a long stick hooked at the end. The -next day they followed the party, and promptly picked -up every animal that was left behind to rest and feed. -That night one of the best men, Tabeau, was killed by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_449">449</a></span> -an Indian, having been shot with arrows not far from -the camp. These Indians did not appear after this day. -A day or two later the party met Joe Walker, the trapper, -who now became guide for the expedition. With him -were eight Americans, who, having started with the -Spanish caravan, had heard that a party of white men -were ahead, and had left the caravan and overtaken the -explorers. On the way they had an encounter with the -Diggers that had troubled Fremont, and killed two of -them.</p> - -<p>May 23, they reached Sevier River, a tributary of the -lake of the same name. Here they were obliged to ferry -themselves across in boats made of bundles of rushes -tied together and bound to poles. Here, too, Badeau, -a good man, was killed by accident; he dragged toward -him a gun by the muzzle and the gun was discharged. -Not far beyond they reached Utah Lake, which Fremont -imagined to be the southern end of Great Salt Lake. -He was much puzzled, however, that the northern end -of the lake should be a saturated solution of salt, while -the southern end was fresh. It does not appear to have -occurred to him that these were two different bodies of -water.</p> - -<p>Having crossed the mountains to the valley of White -River, he reached, on the 3d of June, what he calls the -winter fort, a trading post belonging to Mr. A. Roubideau, -on the principal fork of the Uintah River. On -the 7th, they found themselves on the verge of Brown’s -Hole, a name well known to all old-timers in the West, -and thirty years ago one of the greatest game countries<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_450">450</a></span> -in the world. Here mountain-sheep were found, and -some killed. Two or three days later, buffalo were -killed; and we may imagine the delight with which the -travellers found themselves once more back on the range -where fat cow was to be had. From here they went -north into the Three Parks, travelling in pleasant -weather through a country well watered, where grass -and wood were to be had, and where buffalo, antelope, -and elk were hardly ever out of sight. On June 14, -they were in New Park, now called North Park, going -southward up the Platte River. They soon came upon -parties of Arapahoes and Sioux, and the camp was full -of Indians. On June 22 they crossed the mountains -and found themselves on the headwaters of the Arkansas. -A day or two later they were present at a fight -which took place between Utes and Arapahoes. The -Ute women urged the white men to take part in the fight; -but they felt that it was no concern of theirs, and were -quite uneasy lest they themselves should be attacked. -They kept travelling, and before night had put fifteen -miles between themselves and the Indian village, -and fortified themselves. They were now travelling -rapidly down the Arkansas, meeting Indians constantly. -Among these were a large village of Pawnees, -who received the white men “with unfriendly -rudeness and characteristic insolence which they never -fail to display whenever they find an occasion for doing -so with impunity.” The Pawnees, indeed, seem -always subject to the animadversion of the early -traveller.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_451">451</a></span> -The party journeyed down the Arkansas for nearly -three hundred miles, and on the last day of July, 1844, -reached the little town of Kansas, on the Missouri. -Fremont’s second journey was over.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_453">453</a></span></p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"><div class="index"> -<h2 class="nobreak p1"><a id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<ul class="index"> -<li class="indx">Abert, Col., <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Adair, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Alberta, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Alexander, Henry, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li class="indx">Amahami, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">American Fur Company, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>, <a href="#Page_424">424</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Annahways, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Annian, Straits of, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Antelope, curiosity of, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Apaches, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Arapahoes, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Arikara, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Arkansas R., <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ashley, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Assiniboia, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Assiniboine R., <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Assiniboines, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Astor, John Jacob, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Astoria, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Athabasca, Lake, <a href="#Page_54">54–55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Athabascans, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Atséna, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">B</li> - -<li class="indx">Baker’s Bay, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bannock Indians, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bastonnais, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bay of the Holy Spirit, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bayou Salade, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bear killing, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bear R., <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Beaver Indians, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Beaver Lake, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Beaverhead, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Beer Springs, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Behring’s Isle, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Beliefs of Indians, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bent, Charles, <a href="#Page_418">418</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bent’s Fort, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Big Horn R., <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Big Sioux R., <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Big White, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Birch Creek, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bissonette, Joseph, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Black Hills, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Black Mountains, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Black Shoe Indians, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Blackfeet, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Blackfoot Indians, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Blond children, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bloods, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Blueberry Creek, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bois Percé, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Boisais R., <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bonak Indians, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">“Boston Men,” <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bostonnais, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bounty on scalps, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bridger, Jas., <a href="#Page_361">361</a>, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">British Columbia, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Brown’s Hole, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Brulés, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Buenaventura R., <a href="#Page_430">430</a>, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Buffalo, decoying, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Buffalo, old range of, <a href="#Page_422">422</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">C</li> - -<li class="indx">Câche-à-la-Poudre R., <a href="#Page_418">418</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Caiguas, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">California and Oregon Trail, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Calumet birds, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Calumet Bluff, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Canadian R., <a href="#Page_343">343</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cannon Ball R., <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Canoe Island, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cape Disappointment, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Caribou Island, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Carrabou, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Carson, Kit, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Carver, Jonathan, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <i>et seq.</i>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cass Lake, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_454">454</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Caws, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cayuse, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cedar Island, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cedar Lake, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chaboneau, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chagouemig, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chequamegon, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cherokees, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cheyennes, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chickasaws, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chihuahua, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chimney Rock, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chinook, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chipewyans, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chippewa, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Choctaws, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chopunnish, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chouteau, Cyprian, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Christineaux, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Churchill R., <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cimarron R., <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Clear R., <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Clearwater R., <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cœur d’Alene Indians, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cœur d’Alene R., <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Colter’s Hell, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Comancheros, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Comanches, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Commerce of the Prairies, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Converse with the spirits, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Coppermine R., <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">“Cordelle,” <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Coues, Dr. Elliott, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Council Grove, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Coureurs des bois</i>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Court House Rock, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cox, Ross, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cowelisk R., <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Creeks, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Crees, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cumberland House, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cypress R., <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">D</li> - -<li class="indx">Dakota, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dalles, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dancing, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dearborn R., <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Deer Mountain, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Des Chutes R., <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Detroit, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Digger Indians, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dog Plains, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dog-rib, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dogden Buttes, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dry Fork, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Duluth, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">E</li> - -<li class="indx">El Paso del Norte, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Elk R., <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Eskimo, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">F</li> - -<li class="indx">Falls of St. Anthony, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Falls of St. Marie, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fargo, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Farnham, Thos. J., <a href="#Page_371">371</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fishing, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fishing Falls of Columbia, <a href="#Page_422">422</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fitzpatrick (of the Broken Hand), <a href="#Page_405">405</a>, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Flatheads, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Floyd, Charles, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fols Avoin, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fond du Lac, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fontaine qui bouit, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx" id="fort">Fort: Bent’s, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Bourbon, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Bridger, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Clatsop, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Chipewyan, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cumberland House, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Dauphin, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">David Crockett, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>, <a href="#Page_388">388</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">des Prairies, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">El Puebla, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">George (Astoria), <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Hall, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>, <a href="#Page_418">418</a>, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>, <a href="#Page_427">427</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">John, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Mandan, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Michilimackinac, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Nippewen, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Okanagan, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pike’s, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rocky Mountain House, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Vrain’s, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Vancouver, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Vermillion, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">William, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">William (Bent’s), <a href="#Page_375">375</a>, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>, <a href="#Page_418">418</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">York, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fowler, Jacob, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fox R., <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Foxes, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_455">455</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Frazer R., <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fremont, John C., <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fremont’s Peak, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fur trade in 1785, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">G</li> - -<li class="indx">Gallatin R., <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gama’s Land, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Garces, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gass, Sergeant, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gens des Terres, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Godey, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Goshen’s Hole, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Grand Forks, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Grand Pawnees, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Grand Portage, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Grand R., <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Grape Creek, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gray-haired children, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Great Basin, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Great Falls (of Missouri R.), <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Great Kettle Falls, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Great Narrows, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Great Rapids (of the Saskatchewan), <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Great Salt Lake, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Green R., <a href="#Page_408">408</a>, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gregg, Josiah, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gros Ventres, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gros Ventres of the Prairie, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">H</li> - -<li class="indx">Hair Hills, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hairdressing, method of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hare, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Henry, Alexander, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Henry, Alexander, the Younger, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Henry, William, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Heterodon platyrhinos</i>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hidatsa, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hill of the Little People, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Horse Creek, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Horses, catching wild, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Horses encourage indolence, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hudson’s Bay Company, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hunt, W. P., <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Huts (of Eskimo), <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">I</li> - -<li class="indx">Ile de Maurepas, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Independence Rock, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Indian tribes: Amahami, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Annahways, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Apaches, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Arapahoes, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Arikara, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Assiniboines, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Atséna, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Bannock Indians, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Beaver, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Blackfeet, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Blackfoot Indians, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Black Shoe Indians, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Bloods, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Bonak Indians, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Brulés, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Caiguas, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Caws, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cayuse, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cherokees, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cheyennes, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Chickasaws, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Chinook, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Chipewyans, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Chippewa, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Choctaws, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Chopunnish, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Christineaux, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cœur d’Alene Indians, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Comanches, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Creeks, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Crees, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Dakota, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Digger Indians, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Dog-Rib, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Eskimo, <a href="#Page_90">90–97</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Flatheads, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Fols Avoin, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Gens des Terres, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Grand Pawnees, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Gros Ventres of the Prairie, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Hare, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Hidatsa, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kans, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kansas, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kauzaus Indians, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Killamucks, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Killistinaux, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Killistinoes, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kiowas, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kinistineaux, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kite, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Knisteneaux, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kutenais, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Loucheux, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Mahaha, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Menominees, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Mindawarcarton, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Minneconjous, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Minnetari, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Minnetari of Fort de Prairie, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Minnewakaton, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Missourias, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Mohave Indians, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Nascud Denee, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Navajos, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Nez Percés, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Ogallalas, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Ojibwa, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Omaha, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_456">456</a></span></li> -<li class="isub1">Osages, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Osinipoilles, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Otoes, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pahkees, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pah-utes, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pawnawnees, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pawnee, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142–44</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227–238</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pawnee Picts, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Peigan, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pierced-nose, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Poncas, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Puants, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Red Knife, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rees, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Ricaras, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rocky Mountain, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Root Diggers, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sac, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sacs and Foxes, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Santees, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sarsi, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Saulteurs, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sauteurs, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Schian, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Seminoles, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sharha, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Shoshoni, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sioux, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <i>et passim</i>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sissetons, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sistasoone, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Slave, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Snake Indians, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>, <a href="#Page_424">424</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sokulks, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Soulier, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Soulier Noir, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Spokanes, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Staitan, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Suhtai, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Swampy Crees, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Teton Indians, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Tetons of the Burned Woods—Minnakenozzo, Saone, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Tushepaw Indians, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Utes, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Walla Wallas, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Wahpatones, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Wahpatoota, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Wattasoons, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Winnebagoes, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Witapat, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yanktonnaies, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yankton Sioux, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yanktons of the Plains, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yellow Knives, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yutas, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Isle a la crosse, Lake, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Isle de Carre Boeuf, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Isle of St. Joseph, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Isles du Castor, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">J</li> - -<li class="indx">Jackson’s Hole, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">James R., <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Japon, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jedso, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jefferson, President, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jefferson R., <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jessaume, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">John Day R., <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jornada del Muerto, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Judith R., <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">K</li> - -<li class="indx">Kans, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kansas R., <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kaskaskia, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kauzaus Indians, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Keewatin, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Killamucks, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Killistinaux, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Killistinoes, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">“King George Men,” <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kinistineaux, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kiowa Calendar, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kiowas, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kite Indians, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kitkahahk Village, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Klamath Lake, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Knife R., <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Knisteneaux, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kooyah R., <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kutenai Park, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kutenai Plains, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kutenais, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">L</li> - -<li class="indx">La Charette, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">La Chaudière, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lachine, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">La Cloche, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">La Crosse, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lake (or Lac):</li> -<li class="isub1">a la Pluie, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Arabuthcow, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Athabasca, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Beaver, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cass, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cedar, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Dauphin, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">de Bourbon, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Des Chats, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Great Salt, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Isle a la Crosse, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Klamath, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">La Sang Sue, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Leech, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">of the Crees, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">of the Hills, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">of the Woods, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Ottawa, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pepin, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pyramid, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rainy, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Red, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Louis, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Salt, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Slave, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sturgeon, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Summer, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Temiscamingue, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Tlamath, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Tulé, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Upper Red Cedar, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Utah, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Winnebago, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Winipegon, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Winnipeg, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Laramie R., <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">L’Arbre Croche, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">La Rivière qui Court, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_457">457</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">La Roche Jaune, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Le Borgne, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Le Boulet R., <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lee, John, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lewis and Clark, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li class="indx">Lewis R., <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Little Bear R., <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Little Missouri, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Little Sandy R., <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Little Snake R., <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lodge Pole Creek, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Long—<cite>Voyages and Travels</cite>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Loucheux, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Louisiana Purchase, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Loup Fork R., <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">M</li> - -<li class="indx">Mackenzie, Alexander, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <i>et. seq.</i></li> - -<li class="indx">Mackenzie, Donald, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mackenzie reaches Pacific Ocean, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Macubah, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Madison R., <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mahaha, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Maison du Chien, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mandans, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li class="indx">Manitoba, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Maria’s R., <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Marquette, Father, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Massacre at Michilimackinac, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mattawa R., <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Matthews, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Maxwell, L., <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">McDougal, Duncan, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">McLaughlin, Dr. J., <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Medicine Bow Mountains, <a href="#Page_418">418</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Medicine Lodge R., <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Meeting the Shoshoni, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Menominees, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Messorie, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Michilimackinac, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Michipicoten, <a href="#Page_39">39–41</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Milk R., <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mindawarcarton, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Minnavavana, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Minneconjous, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Minnesota R., <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Minnetari, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Minnetari of Fort de Prairie, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Minnewakaton, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Missisaki R., <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Missouri R., <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Missourias, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mohave Indians, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mt. Hood, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mt. Rainier, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mt. St. Helens, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mouse R., <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Musselshell R., <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mustangs, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">N</li> - -<li class="indx">Nanibojou, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nascud Denee, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Natchitoches, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Naudowessie (of the Plains), <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Navajos, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nebraska, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nelson R., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">New Park, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nez Percés, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nicollet, Joseph, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Niobrara, R., <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nootka, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">North Park (Colo.), <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Northwest Fur Company, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">O</li> - -<li class="indx">Ogallalas, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ojibwa, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Okinagan, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Okinagan R., <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Omaha Indians, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ontario R., <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ontonagan R., <a href="#Page_37">37–38</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ordway, Sergeant, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Oregon, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Oregon R., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_394">394</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Origin story (of Mandans), <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Osage R., <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Osages, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227–235</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Osinipoilles, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Otoes, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ottawa R., <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ottigaumies, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ottowaw Lakes, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_458">458</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Ouisconsin (or Ouisconsing) R., <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Oxen, wild, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">P</li> - -<li class="indx">Pacific Fur Company, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pahkees, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pah-utes, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Panbian Mts., <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Panbian R., <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pangman, Peter, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pangman’s Tree, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Park R., <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Parker, Samuel, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pasquayah R., <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pawnawnees, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pawnees, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227–235</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pawnee Picts, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Peace Point, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Peace R., <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102–103</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Peigan, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pembina Mts., <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pembina R., <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pemmican, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pepin, Lake, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Petit Corbeau, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pierced-nose Indians, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pike, Zebulon M., <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pike’s Flag Raising, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pike’s Fort, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pioneers, character of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Platte R., <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pompey’s Pillar, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Poncas, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pond, Peter, <a href="#Page_43">43–44</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pontiac, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Porcupine R., <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Portage de Lisle, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Portage La Prairie, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Prairie des Chiens, La, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Prairie Hen R., <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Preuss, Charles, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pryor, Sergeant, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Puants, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Puget Sound, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Purgatory R., <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pyramid Lake, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">R</li> - -<li class="indx">Rainy Lake, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Red Deer R., <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Red Knife Indians, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Red Lake, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Red Mountain, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Red R. (Canadian), <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Red Wing, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rees, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Republican R., <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Reynards, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ricaras, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Riding Mountain, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rio Grande, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rio Grande del Norte, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Risen Moose, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rivers:</li> -<li class="isub1">Arkansas, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Assiniboine, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Bear, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Big Sioux, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Birch, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Blueberry, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Boisais, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Buenaventura, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Câche à la Poudre, <a href="#Page_418">418</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Canadian, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cannon Ball, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cimarron, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Clear, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Clearwater, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cœur d’Alene, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Coppermine, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cowelisk, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Cypress, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Dearborn, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">de Bourbon, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Des Chutes, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Dry Fork, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Elk, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Fontaine qui bouit, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Fox, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Frazer, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Gallatin, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Grand, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Grape, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Green, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Horse, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">James, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Jefferson, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">John Day, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Judith, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Kansas, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_396">396</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Knife, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Laramie, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">La Rivière qui Court, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">La Roche Jaune, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Le Boulet, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Lewis, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Little Bear, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Little Missouri, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Little Sandy, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Little Snake, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Lodge Pole, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Loup, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Madison, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Maria’s, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Mattawa, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Medicine Lodge, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Messorie, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Milk, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Minnesota, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Missisaki, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Missouri, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <i>et passim</i>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Mouse, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Musselshell, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Nelson, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Niobrara, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">of the West, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">of Souls, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Okinagan, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Ontonagan, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Oregon, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_394">394</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Osage, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_459">459</a></span></li> -<li class="isub1">Ottawa, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Ouisconsin (or Ouisconsing), <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Panbian, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pasquayah, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Peace, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Pembina, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Platte, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Porcupine, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Prairie Hen, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Purgatory, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Red (Canadian), <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Republican, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rio del Nord, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rio Grande, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rio Grande del Norte, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rivière aux Chutes, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Rocky Mountain, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Running Water, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sacramento, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Croix, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Fee, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Frances, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Maurice, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Peter’s, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">St. Pierre, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Saskatchewan, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Salmon, <a href="#Page_365">365</a>, <a href="#Page_422">422</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Schian, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sevier, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Snake, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Solomon, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Spokane, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Sweetwater, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Uintah, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Walla Walla, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">White, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Whitestone, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Winnipic, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Wisconsin, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Wisdom, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yampah, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yellowstone, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">York, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">Yukon, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>;</li> - -<li class="indx">Road of War, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Robinson, Dr., <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Robinson, “Uncle Jack,” <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rock Mountain Indians, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rocky Mountain Ho., <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rocky Mountain R., <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Root Diggers, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Running Water R., <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">S</li> - -<li class="indx">Sac, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sackett’s Harbor, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sacramento R., <a href="#Page_437">437</a>, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sacs and Foxes, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Anne’s, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Augustine, founded, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Croix R., <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Maurice R., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Peter’s, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Peter’s R., <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Pierre R., <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Vrain’s Fort, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Salmon R., <a href="#Page_365">365</a>, <a href="#Page_422">422</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Salt Lake, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">San Francisco Bay, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">San Joaquin R., <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sans Oreille, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Santa Fé, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Santees, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sarsi, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Saskatchewan (Province), <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Saskatchewan R., <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Saukies, (town of), <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sault de Sainte-Marie, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Saulteurs, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sauteurs, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Schian R., <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Schians, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Scott’s Bluffs, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Seminoles, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sepulcher Rock, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sevier R., <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sharha, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Shining Mountains, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Shoshoni, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Side Hill Calf, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sierra Nevada Mts., <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sign Language, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sioux, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <i>et passim</i>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sissetons, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sistasoone, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Slave Indians, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Slave Lake, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Snake Indians, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>, <a href="#Page_424">424</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Snake R., <a href="#Page_389">389</a>, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Soda Springs, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sokulks, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Solomon R., <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Soulier, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Soulier Noir, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">South Pass, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">South Platte R., <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Spokane, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Spokane House, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Spokane R., <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Spokanes, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Staitan, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Staked Plains, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Standing Rock, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Standing Rock Agency, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Stone Idol Creek, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Stony, or Rocky, Mountains, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Straits of Annian, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sturgeon Lake, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Suhtai, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Summer Lake, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_460">460</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Surgery, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sutter, Capt., <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Swampy Crees, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sweetwater R., <a href="#Page_407">407</a>, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">T</li> - -<li class="indx">Tanner, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Taos, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Temiscamingue Lake, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Terre Blanche, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Teton Indians, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tetons of the Burned Woods, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Minnakenozzo.</li> -<li class="isub1">Saone.</li> - -<li class="indx">“The River of the West,” <a href="#Page_388">388</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Thompson, David, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Thousand Lakes, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Three Forks of the Missouri, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Three Parks, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Three Tetons, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tlamath Lake, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tongue R., <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tonquin, fate of, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Townsend, Dr. J. K., <a href="#Page_368">368</a>, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Trading Post, <i>see</i> <a href="#fort">Fort</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Tripe de roche</i>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tulé Lake, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tushepaw Indians, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Twisted Hair, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">U</li> - -<li class="indx">Uintah R., <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Umfreville, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Upper Red Cedar Lake, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Utah Lake, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">V</li> - -<li class="indx">Vera Cruz, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Vérendrye, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">W</li> - -<li class="indx">Wacon-teebe, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wahpatones, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wahpatoota, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Walla Walla R., <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Walla Wallas, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wappatoo, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Warrior Societies, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Washington, (State of), <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wattasoons, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">West Road R., <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">White Bear Island, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">White Goose, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">White R., <a href="#Page_423">423</a>, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Whitestone R., <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Whitman, Dr. Marcus, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wilkinson, Gen. James, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wilkinson, Lt., <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Willard, Sergeant, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wind River Mountains, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Winnebago, Lake, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Winnebagoes, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Winnipic R., <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wisconsin R., <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wisdom R., <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Witapat, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wolf Calf, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wolf pits, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wolves attacking horses, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wolves, rabid, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wood R., <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Y</li> - -<li class="indx">Yampah R., <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yankton Sioux, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yanktonnaies, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yanktons of the Plains, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yellow Knives, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yellowstone Park, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yellowstone R., <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yeso, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">York R., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yukon R., <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yutas, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</li> -</ul> -</div></div> - - -<h2 title="Advertisements for Other Books"> </h2> -<div class="ad"> - -<h3>Trails -of the Pathfinders</h3> - -<p class="center">By GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.50 net. Postpaid $1.65</p> - -<p class="p2 center">CONTENTS</p> - -<p class="in0 in4"> -<span class="smcap">Introduction</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Alexander Henry</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Jonathan Carver</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Alexander Mackenzie</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Zebulon M. Pike</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Alexander Henry (the Younger)</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Ross Cox</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">The Commerce of the Prairies</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Samuel Parker</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Thomas J. Farnham</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Fremont</span> -</p> - -<p>One of the most stirring and inspiring chapters in -the history of our country is made up of the picturesque, -straightforward narratives of their adventures, -told by the heroic men of action, explorers, hunters, -and trappers, who first travelled through the unknown -regions and among hostile Indians. Mr. Grinnell -gives a number of the most exciting and important of -these stories, told almost entirely in the words of the -explorer himself, and they form a work of unrivalled -interest to old and young.</p> - -<p class="p1 center bbox">READY SHORTLY</p> - -<h3>Zebulon M. Pike</h3> - -<p class="center">Edited by MARY GAY HUMPHREYS</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. About $1.50 net. Postage extra</p> - -<p>The thrilling account of Pike’s explorations told -chiefly in his own words.</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="center">CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK</p> -</div> - -<div class="ad"> - -<h3>The Boy’s Catlin</h3> - -<p class="center">My Life Among the Indians</p> - -<p class="center">Edited with Biographical Introduction by -MARY GAY HUMPHREYS</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated from Catlin’s Drawings. $1.50 net</p> - -<p>“As interesting a story of Indians as was ever written -and has the merit of being true.”—<cite>New York Sun.</cite></p> - -<p>“It would be hard to find a book of more wholesome -fascination for boys.”—<cite>San Francisco Argonaut.</cite></p> - -<h3>The Boy’s Drake</h3> - -<p class="center">By EDWIN M. BACON</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.50 net. Postpaid $1.65</p> - -<p>“Much of the story is told in the words of old -records, and interesting old maps and pictures make it -still more valuable.”—<cite>The Bookman.</cite></p> - -<p>“He has entered into the stirring time of England’s -conquest of the seas and has written a fine biography -of her great pirate captain, a book worthy of its subject -and a worthy book for a boy.”—<cite>Chicago Tribune.</cite></p> - -<h3>The Boy’s Hakluyt</h3> - -<p class="center larger">Retold from Hakluyt</p> - -<p class="center">By EDWIN M. BACON</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.50 net</p> - -<p>“There is more adventure in this volume than will -be found in a whole library of fiction.”—<cite>New York Sun.</cite></p> - -<hr /> -<p class="center">CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK</p> -</div> - -<div class="ad"> - -<h3><span class="small">BY NOAH BROOKS</span></h3> - -<h3>First Across the -Continent</h3> - -<p class="center">A CONCISE STORY OF THE LEWIS AND CLARK -EXPEDITION</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.50 net</p> - -<p>“More readable than a romance, full of hair-breadth -escapes and imminent perils from savage man and beast, -by storm and flood, by sickness and cold and starvation.”—<cite>Chicago Post.</cite></p> - -<p>“For any one who has an interest in adventure and -in the hardihood of the pioneer this is a great story.”—<cite>Boston Herald.</cite></p> - -<h3>The Boy Emigrants</h3> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.25</p> - -<p>“It is one of the best boys’ stories we have ever -read.”—<cite>The Christian Work.</cite></p> - -<p>“The name alone of this volume’s author should be -a sufficient voucher for its qualities ... the book is -picturesque and stirring.”—<cite>Providence Journal.</cite></p> - -<h3>The Boy Settlers</h3> - -<p class="center">A STORY OF EARLY TIMES IN KANSAS</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.25</p> - -<p>“Three boys and two men go out into Kansas, at -the time when that region was the Far West. The -boys have great sport killing buffaloes and some trouble -about Indian uprisings.”—<cite>The Independent.</cite></p> - -<hr /> -<p class="center">CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK</p> -</div> - -<div class="ad"> -<h3>The Adventures of -James Capen Adams</h3> - -<p class="center larger">Mountaineer and Grizzly Bear -Hunter of California</p> - -<p class="center">By THEODORE H. HITTELL</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated. $1.50 net. Postpaid $1.65</p> - -<p>The story of the life and thrilling adventures of one -of the most famous of American hunters and one of -the first great tamers of wild animals.</p> - -<p>The narrative is given just as it first appeared in the -simple, direct language in which “Grizzly” Adams told -it to Mr. Hittell—a style that bears all the marks of -absolute truth.</p> - -<h3>The Grizzly Bear</h3> - -<p class="center">By WILLIAM H. WRIGHT</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated from Photographs by the Author and -J. B. 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Postpaid $1.10</p> - -<p>“Finely illustrated, informing, and entertaining.”—<cite>Philadelphia Inquirer.</cite></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="center">CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, NEW YORK</p> -</div> -<p> </p> - -<div class="chapter"><div class="transnote"> -<h2 class="nobreak p1"><a id="Transcribers_Notes"></a>Transcriber’s Note</h2> - -<p>Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a predominant -preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not changed.</p> - -<p>Simple typographical errors were corrected; occasional unpaired -quotation marks were retained.</p> - -<p>Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained.</p> - -<p>Index not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page references.</p> -</div></div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAILS OF THE PATHFINDERS***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 53897-h.htm or 53897-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/3/8/9/53897">http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/8/9/53897</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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