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diff --git a/old/xpcs210.txt b/old/xpcs210.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7c44c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpcs210.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13399 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into +Central Australia Volume 2, by Edward John Eyre + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central + Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's + Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of + South Australia, With The Sanction And Support Of The + Government: Including An Account Of The Manners And + Customs Of The Aborigines And The State Of Their + Relations With Europeans. Volume 2. + +Author: Edward John Eyre + +Release Date: March, 2004 [EBook #5345] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on July 2, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au + + + + + + + +PRODUCTION NOTES: +--Italics in the book have been changed to to upper case in this eBook. +--Footnotes have been placed in brackets [] within the text. +--A number of tables have been omitted or rendered incomplete. These are + indicated in the eBook at the point at which they occurred in the book. +--Plates and maps in the book have not been reproduced. A list of plates + forms part of the Table of Contents. There were 2 maps included in the + book. These indicated the extent of Eyre's journeys. + + + + + + +JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA AND OVERLAND +FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND IN THE YEARS 1840-1: SENT BY THE +COLONISTS OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE +GOVERNMENT: INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE +ABORIGINES AND THE STATE OF THEIR RELATIONS WITH EUROPEANS. + +by EYRE, EDWARD JOHN (1815-1901) + + + +TO LIEUT.-COLONEL GEORGE GAWLER, K.H. M.R.G.S. +UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES, AS GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, +THE EXPEDITIONS, DESCRIBED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES, +WERE UNDERTAKEN, THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, +AS A TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE FOR HIS KINDNESS AND RESPECT FOR HIS VIRTUES, +BY THE AUTHOR. + + + + + +PREFACE. + + + +In offering to the public an account of Expeditions of Discovery in +Australia, undertaken in the years 1840-1, and completed in July of the +latter year, some apology may be deemed necessary for this narrative not +having sooner appeared, or perhaps even for its being now published at +all. + +With respect to the first, the author would remark that soon after his +return to South Australia upon the close of the Expeditions, and when +contemplating an immediate return to England, he was invited by the +Governor of the Colony to remain, and undertake the task of +re-establishing peace and amicable relations with the numerous native +tribes of the Murray River, and its neighbourhood, whose daring and +successful outrages in 1841, had caused very great losses to, and created +serious apprehensions among the Colonists. + +Hoping that his personal knowledge of and extensive practical experience +among the Aborigines might prove serviceable in an employment of this +nature, the author consented to undertake it; and from the close of +September 1841, until December 1844, was unremittingly occupied with the +duties it entailed. It was consequently not in his power to attend to the +publication of his travels earlier, nor indeed can he regret a delay, +which by the facilities it afforded him of acquiring a more intimate +knowledge of the character and habits of the Aborigines, has enabled him +to render that portion of his work which relates to them more +comprehensive and satisfactory than it otherwise would have been. + +With respect to the second point, or the reasons which have led to this +work being published at all, the author would observe that he has been +led to engage in it rather from a sense of duty, and at the instance of +many of his friends, than from any wish of his own. The greater portion +of the country he explored was of so sterile and worthless a description, +and the circumstances which an attempt to cross such a desert region led +to, were of so distressing a character, that he would not willingly have +revived associations, so unsatisfactory and so painful. + +It has been his fate, however, to cross, during the course of his +explorations, a far greater extent of country than any Australian +traveller had ever done previously, and as a very large portion of this +had never before been trodden by the foot of civilized man, and from its +nature is never likely to be so invaded again, it became a duty to record +the knowledge which was thus obtained, for the information of future +travellers and as a guide to the scientific world in their inquiries into +the character and formation of so singular and interesting a country. + +To enable the reader to judge of the author's capabilities for the task +he undertook, and of the degree of confidence that may be due to his +impressions or opinions, it may not be out of place to state, that the +Expeditions of 1840--1 were not entered upon without a sufficient +previous and practical experience in exploring. + +For eight years the author had been resident in Australia, during which +he had visited many of the located parts of New South Wales, Port +Phillip, South Australia, Western Australia, and Van Diemen's Land. In +the years 1836, 1837, 1838, 1839, and 1840 he had conducted expeditions +across from Liverpool Plains in New South Wales to the county of Murray, +from Sydney to Port Phillip, from Port Phillip to Adelaide, and from King +George's Sound to Swan River, besides undertaking several explorations +towards the interior, both from Port Lincoln and from Adelaide. + +To the knowledge and experience which were thus acquired, the author must +ascribe the confidence and good opinion of his fellow-colonists, which +led them in 1840 to place under his command an undertaking of such +importance, interest, and responsibility; and to these advantages he +feels that he is in a great measure indebted, under God's blessing, for +having been enabled successfully to struggle through the difficulties and +dangers which beset him, in crossing from Adelaide to King George's +Sound. + +With this explanation for obtruding upon the public, the author would +also solicit their indulgence, for the manner in which the task has been +performed. The only merit to which he can lay claim, is that of having +faithfully described what he saw, and the impressions which were produced +upon him at the time. In other respects it is feared that a work, which +was entirely (and consequently very hastily) prepared for the press from +the original notes, whilst voyaging from Australia to England, must +necessarily be crude and imperfect. Where the principal object, however, +was rather to record with accuracy than indulge in theory or conjecture, +and where a simple statement of occurrences has been more attended to +than the language in which they are narrated, plainness and fidelity +will, it is hoped, be considered as some compensation for the absence of +the embellishments of a more finished style, or a studied composition, +and especially as the uncertainty attending the duration of the author's +visit to England made it a matter of anxious consideration to hurry these +volumes through the press as rapidly as possible. There is one +circumstance to which he wishes particularly to allude, as accounting for +the very scanty notices he is now able to give of the geology or botany +of the country through which he travelled; it is the loss of all the +specimens that were collected during the earlier part of the Expedition, +which occurred after they had been sent to Adelaide; this loss has been +irreparable, and has not only prevented him from ascertaining points +about which he was dubious, but has entirely precluded him from having +the subjects considered, or the specimens classified and arranged by +gentlemen of scientific acquirements in those departments of knowledge, +in which the author is conscious he is himself defective. In the latter +part of the Expedition, or from Fowler's Bay to King George's Sound, the +dreadful nature of the country, and the difficulties and disasters to +which this led, made it quite impossible either to make collections of +any kind, or to examine the country beyond the immediate line of route; +still it is hoped that the passing notices which are made in the journal, +and the knowledge of the similarity of appearance and uniform character, +prevalent throughout the greater portion of the country passed through, +will be quite sufficient to give a general and correct impression of the +whole. + +To Mr. Gray of the British Museum, the author is particularly indebted +for his valuable contribution on the Natural History of the Southern +coast of Australia, and to Mr. Gould, the celebrated Ornithologist, his +thanks are equally due, for a classified and most interesting list of the +birds belonging to the same portion of the continent. + +To Mr. Adam White, of the British Museum, he is also indebted for an +account of some new insects, and to Dr. Richardson, for a scientific and +classified arrangement of fish caught on the Southern coast, near King +George's Sound. The plates to which the numbers refer in the +last-mentioned paper, are the admirable drawings made from life, by J. +Neill, Esq. of King George's Sound, and now lodged at the British Museum. +They are, however, both too numerous and too large to give in a work of +this description, and will probably be published at some future time by +their talented author. + +For the account given of the Aborigines the author deems it unnecessary +to offer any apology; a long experience among them, and an intimate +knowledge of their character, habits, and position with regard to +Europeans, have induced in him a deep interest on behalf of a people, who +are fast fading away before the progress of a civilization, which ought +only to have added to their improvement and prosperity. Gladly would the +author wish to see attention awakened on their behalf, and an effort at +least made to stay the torrent which is overwhelming them. + +It is most lamentable to think that the progress and prosperity of one +race should conduce to the downfal and decay of another; it is still more +so to observe the apathy and indifference with which this result is +contemplated by mankind in general, and which either leads to no +investigation being made as to the cause of this desolating influence, or +if it is, terminates, to use the language of the Count Strzelecki, "in +the inquiry, like an inquest of the one race upon the corpse of the +other, ending for the most part with the verdict of 'died by the +visitation of God.'" + +In his attempt to delineate the actual circumstances and position of the +natives, and the just claims they have upon public sympathy and +benevolence, he has been necessitated to refer largely to the testimony +of others, but in doing this he has endeavoured as far as practicable, to +support the views he has taken by the writings or opinions of those who +are, or who have been resident in the Colonies, and who might therefore +be supposed from a practical acquaintance with the subject, to be most +competent to arrive at just conclusions. + +In suggesting the only remedy which appears at all calculated to mitigate +the evil complained of, it has studiously been kept in view that there +are the interests of two classes to be provided for, those of the +Settlers, and those of the Aborigines, it is thought that these interests +cannot with advantage be separated, and it is hoped that it may be found +practicable to blend them together. + +The Aborigines of New Holland are not on the whole a numerous people; +they are generally of a very inoffensive and tractable character, and it +is believed that they may, under ordinary circumstances, almost always be +rendered peaceable and well-disposed by kind and consistent treatment. +Should this, in reality, prove to be the case, it may be found perhaps, +that they could be more easily managed, and in the long run at a less +expense, by some such system as is recommended, than by any other +requiring means of a more retaliatory or coercive character. The system +proposed is at least one which by removing in a great measure temptation +from the native, and thereby affording comparative security to the +settlers, will have a powerful effect in inducing the latter to unite +with the Government in any efforts made to ameliorate the condition of +the Aborigines; a union which under present or past systems has not ever +taken place, but one which it is very essential should be effected, if +any permanent good is hoped for. + +To Mr. Moorhouse the author returns his best thanks for his valuable +notes on the Aborigines, to which he is indebted for the opportunity of +giving an account of many of the customs and habits of the Adelaide +tribes. + +To Anthony Forster, Esq. he offers his warmest acknowledgments for his +assistance in overlooking the manuscripts during the voyage from +Australia, and correcting many errors which necessarily resulted from the +hurried manner in which they were prepared; it is to this kind +supervision must be ascribed the merit--negative though it may be--of +there not being more errors than there are. + + + +CONTENTS OF VOLUME II. + + +CHAPTER I. +THE CAMP PLUNDERED--NIGHT OF HORRORS--PROCEED ON TO THE WESTWARD--THE +BOYS FOLLOW US--THEY ARE LEFT BEHIND--FORCED MARCHES--DESERT +COUNTRY--BANKSIAS MET WITH--TRACES OF NATIVES--TERMINATION OF THE +CLIFFS--FIND WATER + +CHAPTER II. +REFLECTIONS UPON SITUATION--WATCH FOR THE ARRIVAL OF THE NATIVE +BOYS--THEIR PROBABLE FATE--PROCEED ON THE JOURNEY--FACILITY OF OBTAINING +WATER--KILL A HORSE FOR FOOD--SILVER-BARK TEA-TREE--INTENSE COLD--FIRST +HILLS SEEN--GOOD GRASS--APPETITE OF A NATIVE--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF +UNWHOLESOME DIET--CHANGE IN THE CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--GRANITE FORMS +THE LOW WATER LEVEL--TREE WASHED ON SHORE--INDISPOSITION + +CHAPTER III. +HEAVY ROAD--A YOUNG KANGAROO SHOT--GRASSY COUNTRY--POINT MALCOLM--TRACES +OF ITS HAVING BEEN VISITED BY EUROPEANS--GRASS-TREES MET WITH--A KANGAROO +KILLED--CATCH FISH--GET ANOTHER KANGAROO--CRAB HUNTING--RENEW THE +JOURNEY--CASUARINAE MET WITH--CROSS THE LEVEL BANK--LOW COUNTRY BEHIND +IT--CAPE ARID--SALT WATER CREEK--XAMIA SEEN--CABBAGE TREE OF THE +SOUND--FRESH WATER LAKE--MORE SALT STREAMS--OPOSSUMS CAUGHT--FLAG REEDS +FOUND--FRESH WATER STREAMS--BOATS SEEN--MEET WITH A WHALER + +CHAPTER IV. +GO ON BOARD THE MISSISSIPPI--WET WEATHER--VISIT LUCKY BAY--INTERVIEW WITH +NATIVES--WYLIE UNDERSTANDS THEIR LANGUAGE--GET THE HORSES SHOD--PREPARE +TO LEAVE THE VESSEL--KINDNESS AND LIBERALITY OF CAPTAIN ROSSITER--RENEW +JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD--FOSSIL FORMATION STILL CONTINUES--SALT WATER +STREAMS AND LAKES--A LARGE SALT RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY + +CHAPTER V. +LARGE WATERCOURSE--LAKE OF FRESH WATER--HEAVY RAINS--REACH MOUNT +BARREN--SALT LAKES AND STREAMS--BARREN SCRUBBY COUNTRY--RANGES BEHIND +KING GEORGE'S SOUND ARE SEEN--BRACKISH PONDS--PASS CAPE RICHE--A LARGE +SALT RIVER--CHAINS OF PONDS--GOOD LAND--HEAVILY TIMBERED COUNTRY--COLD +WEATHER--FRESH LAKE--THE CANDIUP RIVER--KING'S RIVER--EXCESSIVE +RAINS--ARRIVAL AT KING GEORGE'S SOUND, AND TERMINATION OF THE +EXPEDITION--RECEPTION OF WYLIE BY THE NATIVES + +CHAPTER VI. +CONCLUDING REMARKS + + + + +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE ABORIGINES OF AUSTRALIA. + +CHAPTER I. +PRELIMINARY REMARKS--UNJUST OPINIONS GENERALLY ENTERTAINED OF THE +CHARACTER OF THE NATIVE--DIFFICULTIES AND DISADVANTAGES HE LABOURS UNDER +IN HIS RELATIONS WITH EUROPEANS--AGGRESSIONS AND INJURIES ON THE PART OF +THE LATTER IN GREAT DEGREE EXTENUATE HIS CRIMES + +CHAPTER II. +PHYSICAL APPEARANCE--DRESS--CHARACTER--HABITS OF LIFE--MEETINGS OF +TRIBES--WARS--DANCES--SONGS + +CHAPTER III. +FOOD--HOW PROCURED--HOW PREPARED--LIMITATION AS TO AGE, etc. + +CHAPTER IV. +PROPERTY IN +LAND--DWELLINGS--WEAPONS--IMPLEMENTS--GOVERNMENT--CUSTOMS--SOCIAL +RELATIONS--MARRIAGE--NOMENCLATURE + +CHAPTER V. +CEREMONIES AND SUPERSTITIONS--FORMS OF BURIAL--MOURNING +CUSTOMS--RELIGIOUS IDEAS--EMPIRICS, etc. + +CHAPTER VI. +NUMBERS--DISEASES--CAUSE OF LIMITED POPULATION--CRIMES AGAINST +EUROPEANS--AMONGST THEMSELVES--TREATMENT OF EACH OTHER IN DISTRIBUTION OF +FOOD, etc. + +CHAPTER VII. +LANGUAGE, DIALECTS, CUSTOMS, etc.--GENERAL SIMILARITY THROUGHOUT THE +CONTINENT--CAUSES OF DIFFERENCES--ROUTE BY WHICH THE NATIVES HAVE +OVERSPREAD THE COUNTRY, etc. + +CHAPTER VIII. +EFFECTS OF CONTACT WITH EUROPEANS--ATTEMPTS AT IMPROVEMENT AND +CIVILIZATION--ACCOUNT OF SCHOOLS--DEFECTS OF THE SYSTEM + +CHAPTER IX. +SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPROVEMENT OF SYSTEM ADOPTED TOWARDS THE NATIVES 458 + +* * * * * + + + +EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES OF NATIVE ORNAMENTS, WEAPONS, IMPLEMENTS, AND +WORKS OF INDUSTRY + + + +LIST OF PLATES.--VOL. II. + +Distribution of flour at Moorunde, G. Hamilton +Arrival at King George's Sound, J. Neill +Plate I.--Native Ornaments +Kangaroo Dance of King George's Sound, J. Neill +Woodcut of a Standard used in the Dances performed by day +Plate II. Native Weapons +Plate III. Native Weapons +Plate IV. Native Implements +Plate V. Native Works of Industry +Mode of disposing of the Dead of the Lower Murray +Murray River at Moorunde +Plate VI. Miscellaneous Native Articles +1. Head of war spear of the North Coast, barbed for 3 feet, total length +9 1/2 feet. +2. Head of fish spear of the North Coast, barbed for 18 inches, total +length 8 3/4 feet. +2. Head of spear of the North Coast, barbed for 18 inches, total length +8 3/4 feet. +4. Head of war spear of the North Coast, with head of quartz, 6 inches, +total length 9 1/2 feet. +5. Head of war spear of the North Coast, with head of slate, 6 inches, +total length 9 1/2 feet. +6. Two handed sword of hard wood, North Coast, 3 1/2 feet. +7. Throwing stick of North Coast, 3 feet 1 inch. +8. Throwing stick of North Coast, very pliant, 3-16ths of an inch only +thick, 3 feet 6 inches. +9. Broad short throwing stick, 2 feet 2 inches. +10. An ornament of feathers for the neck. +11. Five Kangaroo teeth in a bunch, worn round the neck. +12. A net waistband or belt, from Murray River, 8 feet long 6 inches +wide. +13. Plume of feathers tied to thin wand, and stuck in the hair at +dances--New South Wales. +14. War club. +15. War club. +16. Bag of close net work. +17. Band for forehead of Swan's down. +18. Root end of a kind of grass, used as pins for pegging out skins. +19. Sorcerer's stick. +20. Sorcerer's stick. + + + + + + + +VOLUME II + + + + + +JOURNAL OF EXPEDITIONS IN CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, IN 1840-1. + + + + +Chapter I. + + + +THE CAMP PLUNDERED--NIGHT OF HORRORS--PROCEED ON TO THE WESTWARD--THE +BOYS FOLLOW US--THEY ARE LEFT BEHIND--FORCED MARCHES--DESERT +COUNTRY--BANKSIAS MET WITH--TRACES OF NATIVES--TERMINATION OF THE +CLIFFS--FIND WATER. + + +Glancing hastily around the camp I found it deserted by the two younger +native boys, whilst the scattered fragments of our baggage, which I left +carefully piled under the oilskin, lay thrown about in wild disorder, and +at once revealed the cause of the harrowing scene before me. + +Upon raising the body of my faithful, but illfated follower, I found that +he was beyond all human aid; he had been shot through the left breast +with a ball, the last convulsions of death were upon him, and he expired +almost immediately after our arrival. The frightful, the appalling truth +now burst upon me, that I was alone in the desert. He who had faithfully +served me for many years, who had followed my fortunes in adversity and +in prosperity, who had accompanied me in all my wanderings, and whose +attachment to me had been his sole inducement to remain with me in this +last, and to him alas, fatal journey, was now no more. For an instant, I +was almost tempted to wish that it had been my own fate instead of his. +The horrors of my situation glared upon me in such startling reality, as +for an instant almost to paralyse the mind. At the dead hour of night, in +the wildest and most inhospitable wastes of Australia, with the fierce +wind raging in unison with the scene of violence before me, I was left, +with a single native, whose fidelity I could not rely upon, and who for +aught I knew might be in league with the other two, who perhaps were even +now, lurking about with the view of taking away my life as they had done +that of the overseer. Three days had passed away since we left the last +water, and it was very doubtful when we might find any more. Six hundred +miles of country had to be traversed, before I could hope to obtain the +slightest aid or assistance of any kind, whilst I knew not that a single +drop of water or an ounce of flour had been left by these murderers, from +a stock that had previously been so small. + +With such thoughts rapidly passing through my mind, I turned to search +for my double-barelled gun, which I had left covered with an oilskin at +the head of my own break wind. It was gone, as was also the +double-barelled gun that had belonged to the overseer. These were the +only weapons at the time that were in serviceable condition, for though +there were a brace of pistols they had been packed away, as there were no +cartridges for them, and my rifle was useless, from having a ball +sticking fast in the breech, and which we had in vain endeavoured to +extract. A few days' previous to our leaving the last water, the overseer +had attempted to wash out the rifle not knowing it was loaded, and the +consequence was, that the powder became wetted and partly washed away, so +that we could neither fire it off, nor get out the ball; I was, +therefore, temporarily defenceless, and quite at the mercy of the +natives, had they at this time come upon me. Having hastily ripped open +the bag in which the pistols had been sewn up, I got them out, together +with my powder flask, and a bag containing a little shot and some large +balls. The rifle I found where it had been left, but the ramrod had been +taken out by the boys to load my double-barelled gun with, its own ramrod +being too short for that purpose; I found it, however, together with +several loose cartridges, lying about near the place where the boys had +slept, so that it was evident they had deliberately loaded the fire-arms +before they tried to move away with the things they had stolen; one +barrel only of my gun had been previously loaded, and I believe neither +barrels in that of the overseer. + +After obtaining possession of all the remaining arms, useless as they +were at the moment, with some ammunition, I made no further examination +then, but hurried away from the fearful scene, accompanied by the King +George's Sound native, to search for the horses, knowing that if they got +away now, no chance whatever would remain of saving our lives. Already +the wretched animals had wandered to a considerable distance; and +although the night was moonlight, yet the belts of scrub, intersecting +the plains, were so numerous and dense, that for a long time we could not +find them; having succeeded in doing so at last, Wylie and I remained +with them, watching them during the remainder of the night; but they were +very restless, and gave us a great deal of trouble. With an aching heart, +and in most painful reflections, I passed this dreadful night. Every +moment appeared to be protracted to an hour, and it seemed as if the +daylight would never appear. About midnight the wind ceased, and the +weather became bitterly cold and frosty. I had nothing on but a shirt and +a pair of trowsers, and suffered most acutely from the cold; to mental +anguish was now added intense bodily pain. Suffering and distress had +well nigh overwhelmed me, and life seemed hardly worth the effort +necessary to prolong it. Ages can never efface the horrors of this single +night, nor would the wealth of the world ever tempt me to go through +similar ones again. + +April 30.--At last, by God's blessing, daylight dawned once more, but sad +and heart-rending was the scene it presented to my view, upon driving the +horses to what had been our last night's camp. The corpse of my poor +companion lay extended on the ground, with the eyes open, but cold and +glazed in death. The same stern resolution, and fearless open look, which +had characterized him when living, stamped the expression of his +countenance even now. He had fallen upon his breast four or five yards +from where he had been sleeping, and was dressed only in his shirt. In +all probability, the noise made by the natives, in plundering the camp, +had awoke him; and upon his jumping up, with a view of stopping them, +they had fired upon and killed him. + +Around the camp lay scattered the harness of the horses, and the remains +of the stores that had been the temptation to this fatal deed. + +As soon as the horses were caught, and secured, I left Wylie to make a +fire, whilst I proceeded to examine into the state of our baggage, that I +might decide upon our future proceedings. Among the principal things +carried off by the natives, were, the whole of our baked bread, amounting +to twenty pounds weight, some mutton, tea and sugar, the overseer's +tobacco and pipes, a one gallon keg full of water, some clothes, two +double-barrelled guns, some ammunition, and a few other small articles. + +There were still left forty pounds of flour, a little tea and sugar, and +four gallons of water, besides the arms and ammunition I had secured last +night. + +From the state of our horses, and the dreadful circumstances we were +placed in, I was now obliged to abandon every thing but the bare +necessaries of life. The few books and instruments I had still left, with +many of the specimens I had collected, a saddle, and some other things, +were thrown aside to lighten somewhat more the trifling loads our animals +had to carry. A little bread was then baked, and I endeavoured once more +to put the rifle in serviceable condition, as it was the only weapon we +should have to depend upon in any dangers that might beset us. Unable in +any way to take out the breech, or to extract the ball, I determined to +melt it out, and for that purpose took the barrel off the stock, and put +the breech in the fire, holding the muzzle in my hand. Whilst thus +engaged, the rifle went off, the ball whizzing close past my head; the +fire, it seems, had dried the powder, which had been wetted, not washed +out; and when the barrel was sufficiently heated, the piece had gone off, +to the imminent danger of my life, from the incautious way in which I +held it. The gun, however, was again serviceable; and after carefully +loading it, I felt a degree of confidence and security I had before been +a stranger to. + +At eight o'clock we were ready to proceed; there remained but to perform +the last sad offices of humanity towards him, whose career had been cut +short in so untimely a manner. This duty was rendered even more than +ordinarily painful, by the nature of the country, where we happened to +have been encamped. One vast unbroken surface of sheet rock extended for +miles in every direction, and rendered it impossible to make a grave. We +were some miles away from the sea-shore, and even had we been nearer, +could not have got down the cliffs to bury the corpse in the sand. I +could only, therefore, wrap a blanket around the body of the overseer, +and leaving it enshrouded where he fell, escape from the melancholy +scene, accompanied by Wylie, under the influence of feelings which +neither time nor circumstances will ever obliterate. Though years have +now passed away since the enactment of this tragedy, the dreadful horrors +of that time and scene, are recalled before me with frightful vividness, +and make me shudder even now, when I think of them. A life time was +crowded into those few short hours, and death alone may blot out the +impressions they produced. + +For some time we travelled slowly and silently onwards. Wylie preceding, +leading one of the horses, myself following behind and driving the others +after him, through a country consisting still of the same alternations of +scrub and open intervals as before. The day became very warm, and at +eleven, after travelling ten miles to the west, I determined to halt +until the cool of the evening. After baking some bread and getting our +dinners, I questioned Wylie as to what he knew of the sad occurrence of +yesterday. He positively denied all knowledge of it--said he had been +asleep, and was awoke by the report of the gun, and that upon seeing the +overseer lying on the ground he ran off to meet me. He admitted, however, +that, after the unsuccessful attempt to leave us, and proceed alone to +King George's Sound, the elder of the other two natives had proposed to +him again to quit the party, and try to go back to Fowler's Bay, to the +provisions buried there. But he had heard or knew nothing, he said, of +either robbery or murder being first contemplated. + +My own impression was, that Wylie had agreed with the other two to rob +the camp and leave us;--that he had been cognisant of all their +proceedings and preparations, but that when, upon the eve of their +departure, the overseer had unexpectedly awoke and been murdered, he was +shocked and frightened at the deed, and instead of accompanying them, had +run down to meet me. My opinion upon this point received additional +confirmation from the subsequent events of this day; but I never could +get Wylie to admit even the slightest knowledge of the fatal occurrence, +or that he had even intended to have united with them in plundering the +camp and deserting. He had now become truly alarmed; and independently of +the fear of the consequences which would attach to the crime, should we +ever reach a civilized community again, he had become very apprehensive +that the other natives, who belonged to quite a different part of +Australia to himself, and who spoke a totally different language, would +murder him as unhesitatingly as they had done the white man. + +We remained in camp until four o'clock, and were again preparing to +advance, when my attention was called by Wylie to two white objects among +the scrub, at no great distance from us, and I at once recognized the +native boys, covered with their blankets only, and advancing towards us. +From Wylie's account of their proposal to go back towards Fowler's Bay, I +fully hoped that they had taken that direction, and left us to pursue our +way to the Sound unmolested. I was therefore surprised, and somewhat +alarmed, at finding them so near us. With my rifle and pistols I felt +myself sufficiently a match for them in an open country, or by daylight. +Yet I knew that as long as they followed like bloodhounds on our tracks +our lives would be in their power at any moment that they chose to take +them, whilst we were passing through a scrubby country, or by night. +Whatever their intention might be, I knew, that if we travelled in the +same direction with them, our lives could only be safe by their +destruction. Although they had taken fully one-third of the whole stock +of our provisions, their appetites were so ravenous, and their habits so +improvident, that this would soon be consumed, and then they must either +starve or plunder us; for they had already tried to subsist themselves in +the bush, and had failed. + +As these impressions rapidly passed through my mind, there appeared to me +but one resource left, to save my own life and that of the native with +me: that was, to shoot the elder of the two. Painful as this would be, I +saw no other alternative, if they still persisted in following us. After +packing up our few things, and putting them upon the horses, I gave the +bridles to Wylie to hold, whilst I advanced alone with my rifle towards +the two natives. They were now tolerably near, each carrying a +double-barrelled gun, which was pointed towards me, elevated across the +left arm and held by the right hand. As I attempted to approach nearer +they gradually retreated. + +Finding that I was not likely to gain ground upon them in this way, I +threw down my weapons, and advanced unarmed, hoping that if they let me +near them I might suddenly close with the eldest and wrest his gun from +him. After advancing about sixty or seventy yards towards them, I found +that they again began to retreat, evidently determined not to let me +approach any nearer, either armed or unarmed. Upon this I halted, and +endeavoured to enter into parley with them, with a view to persuading +them to return towards Fowler's Bay, and thus obviate the painful +necessity I should have been under of endeavouring, for my own security, +to take away the life of the eldest whenever I met with him, should they +still persist in going the same road as myself. The distance we were +apart was almost too great for parley, and I know not whether they heard +me or not; though they halted, and appeared to listen, they did not reply +to what I said, and plainly wished to avoid all closer contact. They now +began to call incessantly to Wylie, and in answer to my repeated efforts +to get them to speak to me, only would say, "Oh massa, we don't want you, +we want Wylie." Thus fully confirming me in the opinion I had formed, +that Wylie had agreed to go with them before the deed of violence was +committed. It was now apparent to me that their only present object in +following us had been to look for Wylie, and get him to join them. In +this they were unsuccessful; for he still remained quietly where I left +him holding the horses, and evidently afraid to go near them. There was +no use wasting further time, as I could not get them to listen to me. The +sun, too, was fast sinking in the horizon, we had been four days without +finding water, and the probability was we had very far still to go before +we could hope to procure any; every moment, therefore, was precious. + +Having returned to Wylie, I made him lead one of the horses in advance, +and I followed behind, driving the rest after him, according to the +system of march I had adopted in the morning. As soon as the two natives +saw us moving on, and found Wylie did not join them, they set up a wild +and plaintive cry, still following along the brush parallel to our line +of route, and never ceasing in their importunities to Wylie, until the +denseness of the scrub, and the closing in of night, concealed us from +each other. + +I was now resolved to make the most of the opportunity afforded me, and +by travelling steadily onwards, to gain so much distance in advance of +the two natives as to preclude the possibility of their again overtaking +us until we had reached the water, if indeed we were ever destined to +reach water again. I knew that they would never travel more than a few +miles before lying down, especially if carrying all the bread they had +taken, the keg of water, guns, and other articles. We had, however, seen +none of these things with them, except the fire-arms. + +Our road was over scrubby and stony undulations, with patches of dry +grass here and there; in other parts, we passed over a very sandy soil of +a red colour, and overrun by immense tufts of prickly grass (spinifex), +many of which were three and four yards in diameter. After pushing on for +eighteen miles, I felt satisfied we had left the natives far behind, and +finding a patch of grass for the horses, halted for the remainder of the +night. It was quite impossible, after all we had gone through, to think +of watching the horses, and my only means of preventing from them +straying, was to close the chains of their hobbles so tight, that they +could not go far; having thus secured them, we lay down, and for a few +hours enjoyed uninterrupted and refreshing sleep. + +Moving on again on the 1st of May, as the sun was above the horizon, we +passed through a continuation of the same kind of country, for sixteen +miles, and then halted for a few hours during the heat of the day. We had +passed many recent traces of natives both yesterday and to-day, who +appeared to be travelling to the westward. After dividing a pot of tea +between us, we again pushed on for twelve miles, completing a stage of +twenty-eight miles, and halting, with a little dry grass for the horses. + +It was impossible they could endure this much longer, they had already +been five days without water, and I did not expect to meet with any for +two days more, a period which I did not think they could survive. As yet +no very great change had taken place in the country; it was still scrubby +and rocky, but the surface stone now consisted of a cream-coloured +limestone of a fine compact character, and full of shells. The cliffs, +parallel with which we were travelling, were still of about the same +height, appearance, and formation as before, whilst the inland country +increased in elevation, forming scrubby ridges to the back, with a few +open grassy patches here and there. One circumstance in our route to-day +cheered me greatly, and led me shortly to expect some important and +decisive change in the character and formation of the country. It was the +appearance for the first time of the Banksia, a shrub which I had never +before found to the westward of Spencer's Gulf, but which I knew to +abound in the vicinity of King George's Sound, and that description of +country generally. Those only who have looked out with the eagerness and +anxiety of a person in my situation, to note any change in the vegetation +or physical appearance of a country, can appreciate the degree of +satisfaction with which I recognised and welcomed the first appearance of +the Banksia. Isolated as it was amidst the scrub, and insignificant as +the stunted specimens were that I first met with, they led to an +inference that I could not be mistaken in, and added, in a tenfold +degree, to the interest and expectation with which every mile of our +route had now become invested. During the day the weather had been again +cloudy, with the appearance of rain; but the night turned out cold and +frosty, and both I and the native suffered extremely. We had little to +protect us from the severity of the season, never being able to procure +firewood of a description that would keep burning long at once, so that +between cold and fatigue, we were rarely able to get more than a few +moments rest at a time; and were always glad when daylight dawned to +cheer us, although it only aroused us to the renewal of our unceasing +toil. + +May 2.--We again moved away at dawn, through a country which gradually +become more scrubby, hilly, and sandy. The horses crawled on for +twenty-one miles, when I halted for an hour to rest, and to have a little +tea from our now scanty stock of water. The change which I had noticed +yesterday in the vegetation of the country, was greater and more cheering +every mile we went, although as yet the country itself was as desolate +and inhospitable as ever. The smaller Banksias now abounded, whilst the +Banksia grandis, and many other shrubs common at King George's Sound, +were frequently met with. The natives, whose tracks we had so frequently +met with, taking the same course as ourselves to the westward, seemed now +to be behind us; during the morning we had passed many freshly lit fires, +but the people themselves remained concealed; we had now lost all traces +of them, and the country seemed untrodden and untenanted. In the course +of our journey this morning, we met with many holes in the sheets of +limestone, which occasionally coated the surface of the ground; in these +holes the natives appeared to procure an abundance of water after rains, +but it was so long since any had fallen, that all were dry and empty now. +In one deep hole only, did we find the least trace of moisture; this had +at the bottom of it, perhaps a couple of wine glasses full of mud and +water, and was most carefully blocked up from the birds with huge stones: +it had evidently been visited by natives, not an hour before we arrived +at it, but I suspect they were as much disappointed as we were, upon +rolling away all the stones to find nothing in it. + +After our scanty meal, we again moved onwards, but the road became so +scrubby and rocky, or so sandy and hilly, that we could make no progress +at all by night, and at eight miles from where we dined, we were +compelled to halt, after a day's journey of twenty-nine miles; but +without a blade even of withered grass for our horses, which was the more +grievous, because for the first time since we left the last water, a very +heavy dew fell, and would have enabled them to feed a little, had there +been grass. We had now traversed 138 miles of country from the last +water, and according to my estimate of the distance we had to go, ought +to be within a few miles of the termination of the cliffs of the Great +Bight. + +May 3.--The seventh day's dawn found us early commencing our journey. The +poor horses still crawled on, though slowly. I was surprised that they +were still alive, after the continued sufferings and privations they had +been subject to. As for ourselves, we were both getting very weak and +worn out, as well as lame, and it was with the greatest difficulty I +could get Wylie to move, if he once sat down. I had myself the same kind +of apathetic feeling, and would gladly have laid down and slept for ever. +Nothing but a strong sense of duty prevented me from giving way to this +pleasing but fatal indulgence. + +The road to-day became worse than ever, being one continued succession of +sandy, scrubby and rocky ridges, and hollows formed on the top of the +cliffs along which our course lay. After travelling two and a half miles, +however, we were cheered and encouraged by the sight of sandy hills, and +a low coast stretching beyond the cliffs to the south-west, though they +were still some distance from us. At ten miles from where we had slept, a +native road led us down a very steep part of the cliffs, and we descended +to the beach. The wretched horses could scarcely move, it was with the +greatest difficulty we got them down the hill, and now, although within +sight of our goal, I feared two of them would never reach it. By +perseverance we still got them slowly along, for two miles from the base +of the cliffs, and then turning in among the sand-drifts, to our great +joy and relief, found a place where the natives had dug for water; thus +at twelve o'clock on the seventh day since leaving the last depot, we +were again encamped at water, after having crossed 150 miles of a rocky, +barren, and scrubby table land. + + + + +Chapter II. + + + +REFLECTIONS UPON SITUATION--WATCH FOR THE ARRIVAL OF THE NATIVE +BOYS--THEIR PROBABLE FATE--PROCEED ON THE JOURNEY--FACILITY OF OBTAINING +WATER--KILL A HORSE FOR FOOD--SILVER-BARK TEA-TREE--INTENSE COLD--FIRST +HILLS SEEN--GOOD GRASS--APPETITE OF A NATIVE--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF +UNWHOLESOME DIET--CHANGE IN THE CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--GRANITE FORMS +THE LOW WATER LEVEL--TREE WASHED ON SHORE--INDISPOSITION. + + +Having at last got fairly beyond all the cliffs bounding the Great Bight, +I fully trusted that we had now overcome the greatest difficulties of the +undertaking, and confidently hoped that there would be no more of those +fearful long journeys through the desert without water, but that the +character of the country would be changed, and so far improved as to +enable us to procure it, once at least every thirty or forty miles, if +not more frequently. + +Relieved from the pressure of immediate toil, and from the anxiety and +suspense I had been in on the subject of water, my mind wandered to the +gap created in my little party since we had last been at water; more than +ever, almost, did I feel the loss of my overseer, now that the last and +most difficult of our forced marches had been successfully accomplished, +and that there was every hope of our progress for the future, being both +less difficult and more expeditious. How delighted he would have been had +he been with us to participate in the successful termination of a stage, +which he had ever dreaded more than any other during the whole of our +journey, and with what confidence and cheerfulness he would have gone on +for the future. Out of five two only were now present; our little band +had been severed never to be reunited; and I could not but blame myself +for yielding to the overseer's solicitation to halt on the evening of the +29th April, instead of travelling on all night as I had originally +intended: had I adhered to my own judgment all might yet have been well. +Vain and bootless, however, now were all regrets for the irrecoverable +past; but the present was so fraught with circumstances calculated to +recal and to make me feel more bitterly the loss I had sustained, that +painful as the subject was, the mind could not help reverting to and +dwelling upon it. + +Having given each of the horses a bucket of water, Wylie watched them +whilst I cooked our dinner and made some tea, after getting which we +again gave the horses another bucket of water a-piece, hobbled them out +for the night, and then lay down ourselves, feeling perfectly secure from +being overtaken by the native boys. We were obliged to place ourselves +close to the hole of water to keep the horses from getting into it, as +they were thirsty and restless, and kept walking round the well nearly +the whole night, and feeding very little. We ourselves, too, although +dreadfully tired and weak, were so cold and restless, that we slept but +little. I had also a large swelling on two of the joints of the second +finger of the right hand, which gave me very great pain. + +May 4.--After an early breakfast we gave the horses as much water as they +chose to drink, and removing their hobbles gave them full liberty to +range where they liked. I then left Wylie to continue his slumbers, and +taking my rifle, walked about three miles among the sand-drifts to search +for grass, but could find none, except the coarse vegetation that grew +amongst the sand-drifts. I found two other places where the natives got +water by digging, and have no doubt that it may be procured almost +anywhere in these drifts, which extend for some miles, along the coast. +Some black cockatoos made their appearance near the sand-hills, +indicating, in connection with the change I had noticed in the +vegetation, that we were now about entering a different and less +difficult country than any we had yet traversed. These birds I knew never +inhabited that description of country we had been so long travelling +through. We had not seen one before, during our whole journey, and poor +Wylie was quite delighted at the idea of our vicinity to a better region. + +During the day a strict look out was kept for the other two natives, and +at night, after watering the horses and concealing the saddles, we took +our provisions and arms up among the sand-hills, and slept there at some +distance from the water: that if they travelled onwards by moon-light, +they might not come upon us unawares whilst sleeping. If they had +continued their route to the westward, they would, I knew, both have a +severe task to reach the water, and be unable to go to it without our +knowledge; the youngest boy I did not think would prove equal to so +arduous a task, but the elder one I thought might, if his courage and +perseverance did not fail him in travelling so far, without any +indications to lead him to hope for final success, save the fact of our +having gone on before. Upon the whole, however, I thought it more than +probable that on finding they could not get Wylie to join them, and that +they could not keep pace with us, they would turn back, and endeavour to +put in practice their original intention of trying to reach Fowler's Bay. +Still it was necessary to be cautious and vigilant. A few days at most +would decide whether they were advancing this way or not, and until +satisfied upon this point, I determined to take every precaution in my +power to guard against a surprise. My hand was dreadfully painful at +night, and quite deprived me of all rest. + +May 5.--Up before day-break, and moved down to the water to breakfast, +then examined carefully round the wells, and between the sand-drifts and +the sea, to see if any foot-prints had been made during the night, but +none had. There were many pigeons about, and as I had still some +ammunition left, I felt the loss of my gun severely. During the morning a +very large eagle came and settled near us, and I sent Wylie with the +rifle to try to shoot it; he crept within a very few yards of it, and +being a good shot, I felt sure of a hearty meal, but unfortunately the +rifle missed fire, having got damp during the heavy fall of dew a few +evenings before. We lost our dinner, but I received a useful lesson on +the necessity of taking better care of the only gun I had left, and being +always certain that it was in a fit and serviceable state; I immediately +set to work, cleaned and oiled it, and in the afternoon made some +oil-skin covers for the lock and muzzle to keep the damp from it at +nights. For the last day or two I had been far from well, whilst my +inflamed hand, which was daily getting worse, caused me most excruciating +pain, and quite destroyed my rest at nights. In the evening we again +retired among the sand-hills to sleep. + +May 6.--After breakfast we carefully examined the sand-drifts and the +sea-shore, to see if the two boys had passed, but there were no traces of +them to be found, and I now felt that we were secure from all further +interruption from them. Three days we had been in camp at the water, +making altogether a period of six since we last saw them. Had they +continued their course to the westward, they must have arrived long +before this, and I now felt satisfied that they had turned back to +Fowler's Bay for the sake of the provisions buried there, or else they +had fallen in with the natives, whose traces we had so repeatedly seen, +and either joined them, or been killed by them. + +It was now apparent to me beyond all doubt, that in following us on the +30th of April, so far out of the direction they ought to have taken if +they intended to go to the eastward, their only object had been to get +Wylie to accompany them. As he was the eldest of the three, and a strong +full grown man, they would have found him a protection to them from his +superior age, strength and skill. As it was they had but little chance of +making their way safely either to the east or west. At the time I last +saw them they were sixty-three miles from the nearest water in the former +direction, and eighty-seven miles from that in the latter. They were +tired and exhausted from previous walking, and in this state would have +to carry the guns, the provisions, and other things they had taken. This +would necessarily retard their progress, and lengthen out the period +which must elapse before they could obtain water in any direction. On the +night of the 29th April they must have had one gallon of water with them, +but when we saw them on the 30th, I have no doubt, that with their usual +improvidence, they had consumed the whole, and would thus have to undergo +the fatigue of carrying heavy weights, as well as walking for a +protracted period, without any thing to relieve their thirst. Their +difficulties and distress would gradually but certainly increase upon +them, and they would then, in all likelihood, throw away their guns or +their provisions, and be left in the desert unarmed, without food or +water, and without skill or energy to direct them successfully to search +for either. A dreadful and lingering death would in all probability +terminate the scene, aggravated in all its horrors by the consciousness +that they had brought it entirely upon themselves. Painfully as I had +felt the loss of my unfortunate overseer, and shocked as I was at the +ruthless deed having been committed by these two boys, yet I could not +help feeling for their sad condition, the miseries and sufferings they +would have to encounter, and the probable fate that awaited them. + +The youngest of the two had been with me for four years, the eldest for +two years and a half, and both had accompanied me in all my travels +during these respective periods. Now that the first and strong +impressions naturally resulting from a shock so sudden and violent as +that produced by the occurrences of the 29th April, had yielded, in some +measure, to calmer reflections, I was able maturely to weigh the whole of +what had taken place, and to indulge in some considerations in +extenuation of their offence. The two boys knew themselves to be as far +from King George's Sound, as they had already travelled from Fowler's +Bay. They were hungry, thirsty, and tired, and without the prospect of +satisfying fully their appetites, or obtaining rest for a long period of +time, they probably thought, that bad and inhospitable as had been the +country we had already traversed, we were daily advancing into one still +more so, and that we never could succeed in forcing a passage through it; +and they might have been strengthened in this belief by the unlucky and +incautiously-expressed opinions of the overseer. It was natural enough, +under such circumstances, that they should wish to leave the party. +Having come to that determination, and knowing from previous experience, +that they could not subsist upon what they could procure for themselves +in the bush, they had resolved to take with them a portion of the +provisions we had remaining, and which they might look upon, perhaps, as +their share by right. Nor would Europeans, perhaps, have acted better. In +desperate circumstances men are ever apt to become discontented and +impatient of restraint, each throwing off the discipline and control he +had been subject to before, and each conceiving himself to have a right +to act independently when the question becomes one of life and death. + +Having decided upon leaving the party, and stealing a portion of the +provisions, their object would be to accomplish this as effectually and +as safely as they could; and in doing this, they might, without having +had the slightest intention originally, of injuring either myself or the +overseer, have taken such precautions, and made such previous +arrangements as led to the fatal tragedy which occurred. All three of the +natives were well aware, that as long as they were willing to accompany +us, they would share with us whatever we had left; or that, if resolutely +bent upon leaving us, no restriction, save that of friendly advice, would +be imposed to prevent their doing so; but at the same time they were +aware that we would not have consented to divide our little stock of food +for the purpose of enabling any one portion of the party to separate from +the other, but rather that we would forcibly resist any attempts to +effect such a division, either openly or by stealth. They knew that they +never could succeed in their plans openly, and that to do so by stealth +effectually and safely, it would first be necessary to secure all the +fire-arms, that they might incur no risk from our being alarmed before +their purpose was completed. No opportunity had occurred to bring their +intentions into operation until the evening in question, when the scrubby +nature of the country, the wildness of the night, the overseer's sound +sleeping, and my own protracted absence, at a distance with the horses, +had all conspired to favour them. I have no doubt, that they first +extinguished the fires, and then possessing themselves of the fire-arms, +proceeded to plunder the baggage and select such things as they required. +In doing this they must have come across the ammunition, and loaded the +guns preparatory to their departure, but this might have been without any +premeditated intention of making use of them in the way they did. At this +unhappy juncture it would seem that the overseer must have awoke, and +advanced towards them to see what was the matter, or to put a stop to +their proceedings, when they fired on him, to save themselves from being +caught in their act of plunder. That either of the two should have +contemplated the committal of a wilful, barbarous, cold-blooded murder, I +cannot bring myself to believe--no object was to be attained by it; and +the fact of the overseer having been pierced through the breast, and many +yards in advance of where he had been sleeping, in a direction towards +the sleeping-place of the natives, clearly indicated that it was not +until he had arisen from his sleep, and had been closely pressing upon +them, that they had fired the fatal shot. Such appeared to me to be the +most plausible and rational explanation of this melancholy affair--I +would willingly believe it to be the true one. + +Wylie and I moved on in the evening, with the horses for two miles, and +again pitched our camp among the sand-drifts, at a place where the +natives were in the habit of digging wells for water, and where we +procured it at a very moderate depth below the surface. Pigeons were here +in great numbers, and Wylie tried several times with the rifle to shoot +them, but only killed one, the grooved barrel not being adapted for +throwing shot with effect. + +At midnight we arose and moved onwards, following along the beach. I +intended to have made a long stage, as I no longer had any fears about +not finding water; but at nine miles one of the horses knocked up, and +could proceed no farther, I was compelled, therefore, to turn in among +the sand-drifts, and halt at five in the morning of the 7th. We were +again fortunate in procuring water by digging only two feet under the +sand-hills, which were here very high, and were a continuation of those +in which we had first found water on the 3rd. In the afternoon, I again +tried to advance upon our journey, but after proceeding only four miles, +the jaded horse was again unable to move further, and there was no +alternative but to halt and search for water. This was found among the +sand-hills, but we could procure nothing but the coarse grass growing +upon the drifts for the animals to eat. + +May 8.--About two hours before daylight, rain began to fall, and +continued steadily though lightly for three hours, so that enough had +fallen to deposit water in the ledges or holes of the rocks. The day was +wild and stormy, and we did not start until late. Even then we could only +get the tired horse along for three miles, and were again compelled to +halt. Water was still procured, by digging under the sand-hills, but we +had to sink much deeper than we had lately found occasion to do. It was +now plain, that the tired horse would never be able to keep pace with the +others, and that we must either abandon him, or proceed at a rate too +slow for the present state of our commissariat. Taking all things into +consideration, it appeared to me that it would be better to kill him at +once for food, and then remain here in camp for a time, living upon the +flesh, whilst the other horses were recruiting, after which I hoped we +might again be able to advance more expeditiously. Upon making this +proposal to Wylie, he was quite delighted at the idea, and told me +emphatically that he would sit up and eat the whole night. Our decision +arrived at, the sentence was soon executed. The poor animal was shot, and +Wylie and myself were soon busily employed in skinning him. Leaving me to +continue this operation, Wylie made a fire close to the carcase, and as +soon as he could get at a piece of the flesh he commenced roasting some, +and continued alternately, eating, working and cooking. After cutting off +about 100 pounds of the best of the meat, and hanging it in strips upon +the trees until our departure, I handed over to Wylie the residue of the +carcase, feet, entrails, flesh, skeleton, and all, to cook and consume as +he pleased, whilst we were in the neighbourhood. Before dark he had made +an oven, and roasted about twenty pounds, to feast upon during the night. +The evening set in stormy, and threatened heavy rain, but a few drops +only fell. The wind then rose very high, and raged fiercely from the +south-west. At midnight it lulled, and the night became intensely cold +and frosty, and both Wylie and myself suffered severely, we could only +get small sticks for our fire, which burned out in a few minutes, and +required so frequently renewing, that we were obliged to give it up in +despair, and bear the cold in the best way we could. Wylie, during the +night, made a sad and dismal groaning, and complained of being very ill, +from pain in his throat, the effect he said of having to work too hard. I +did not find that his indisposition interfered very greatly with his +appetite, for nearly every time I awoke during the night, I found him up +and gnawing away at his meat, he was literally fulfilling the promise he +had made me in the evening, "By and bye, you see, Massa, me 'pta' (eat) +all night." + +May 9.--The day was cold and cloudy, and we remained in camp to rest the +horses, and diminish the weight of meat, which was greater than our +horses could well carry in their present state. On getting up the horses +to water them at noon, I was grieved to find the foal of my favourite +mare (which died on the 28th March) missing; how we had lost it I could +not make out, but as its tracks were not any where visible near the camp, +it was evident that it had never come there at all. In leaving our last +halting place my time and attention had been so taken up with getting the +weak horse along, that I had left it entirely to Wylie to bring up the +others, and had neglected my usual precaution of counting to see if all +were there before we moved away. The little creature must have been lying +down behind the sand-hills asleep, when we left, or otherwise it would +never have remained behind the others. Being very desirous not to lose +this foal, which had now accompanied me so far and got through all the +worst difficulties, I saddled the strongest of the horses, and mounting +Wylie, I set off myself on foot with him to search for it. We had not +gone far from the camp, when Wylie wished me to go back, offering to go +on by himself; and as I was loth to leave our provisions and ammunition +to the mercy of any native that might chance to go that way, I acceded to +his request, and delivering to him the rifle, returned to the encampment. +Wylie had pledged himself to the due execution of this errand, and I had +some confidence that he would not deceive me. Hour after hour passed away +without his return, and I began to be uneasy at his long delay, and half +repented that I had been so foolish as to trust the rifle in his hands. +At last, a little after dark, I was delighted to see him return, followed +by the foal, which he had found six miles away and still travelling +backwards in search of the horses. Having given him an extra allowance of +bread as a reward for his good conduct, we took our tea and lay down for +the night. + +During the day, whilst Wylie was absent, I had employed my time in +collecting firewood from the back of the sand-hills. In this occupation I +was pleased to meet with the silver-bark tea-tree, another change in the +vegetation, which still further convinced me that we were rapidly +advancing into a more practicable country. + +May 10.--The morning was spent in washing my clothes, cooking meat, and +preparing to move on in the afternoon. Wylie, who knew that this was his +last opportunity, was busy with the skeleton of the horse, and never +ceased eating until we moved on in the afternoon. As we took away with us +nearly a hundred pounds of the flesh, the poor horses were heavily laden +for the condition they were in. The scrubby and swampy nature of the +country behind the shore compelled us too to keep the beach, where the +sands were loose and heavy. Our progress was slow, and at eight miles I +halted. Here we found a little dry grass not far from the sea, and as the +horses did not require water, they fared tolerably well. This was the +first grass we had met with since we descended the cliffs on the 3rd +instant. The horses having entirely subsisted since then on the wiry +vegetation which binds the sand-drifts together. Although we had water in +the canteens for ourselves, and the horses did not require any, I was +curious to know whether fresh water could be procured where we were +encamped--a long, low and narrow tongue of sandy land, lying between the +sea on one side and extensive salt swamps on the other, and in no part +elevated more than a few feet above the level of the sea itself. After +tea I took the spade and commenced digging, and to my great surprise at +six feet I obtained water, which though brackish was very palatable. This +was very extraordinary, considering the nature of the position we were +in, and that there were not any hills from which the fresh water could +drain. + +The night was again bitterly cold and frosty, and we suffered severely. +Now the winter had set in, and we were sadly unprepared to meet its +inclemency, the cold at nights became so intense as to occasion me +agonies of pain; and the poor native was in the same predicament. + +May 11.--Upon moving away this morning, I kept behind the sea shore along +the borders of the salt swamp, steering for some sand-hills which were +seen a-head of us. A hill was now visible in the distance, a little south +of west, rising above the level bank behind the shore,--this was the +first hill, properly so called, that we had met with for many hundreds of +miles, and it tended not a little to cheer us and confirm all previous +impressions relative to the change and improvement in the character of +the country. Our horses were dreadfully fatigued and moved along with +difficulty, and it was as much as we could do to reach the sand-hills we +had seen, though only seven miles away. In our approach to them we passed +through a fine plain full of grass, and of a much better description than +we had met with since leaving Fowler's Bay. Not only was it long and in +the greatest abundance, but there were also mixed with the old grass many +stalks of new and green, the whole forming a rich and luxurious feast for +our horses, such as they had not enjoyed for many a long day. Nearer to +the sand-hills we obtained excellent water by digging, at a depth of five +feet, and only half a mile away from the grass. This place was too +favourable not to be made the most of, and I determined to halt for a day +or two to give our horses the benefit of it, and to enable us to diminish +the weight of meat they had to carry. Whilst here I gave Wylie free +permission to eat as much as he could,--a privilege which he was not long +in turning to account. Between last night's supper and this morning's +breakfast he had got through six-and-a-half pounds of solid cooked flesh, +weighed out and free from bone, and he then complained, that as he had so +little water (the well had fallen in and he did not like the trouble of +cleaning it out again), he could hardly eat at all. On an average he +would consume nine pounds of meat per day. I used myself from two to +three when undergoing very great exertions. After dinner I ascended one +of the sand-hills, and set the hill I had seen in the morning at W. 17 +degrees S. + +May 12.--I intended this morning to have walked down to the beach, but +was suddenly taken ill with similar symptoms to those I had experienced +on the 19th, and 21st of April; and, as formerly, I attributed the +illness entirely to the unwholesome nature of the meat diet. Wylie was +ill too, but not to so great a degree; nor was I surprised at his +complaining; indeed, it would have been wonderful if he had not, +considering the enormous quantity of horse flesh that he daily devoured. +After his feasts, he would lie down, and roll and groan, and say he was +"mendyt" (ill) and nothing would induce him to get up, or to do any +thing. There were now plenty of sting-ray fish along the beach again, and +I was desirous, if possible, to get one for a change of diet; my friend, +however, had so much to eat, that though he said he should like fish too, +I could not get him to go about a mile to the back of the sand-hills, to +cut a stick from the scrub, to make a spear for catching them. + +May 13.--After breakfast, Wylie said he thought he could catch some +bandicoots, by firing the scrub near the sand-hills, and went out for an +hour or two to try, but came back as he went. During his absence, I was +employed in repairing my only two pair of socks now left, which were +sadly dilapidated, but of which I was obliged to be very careful, as they +were the only security I had against getting lame. In the afternoon I +walked down to the beach, to try to spear sting-ray, but the sea was +rough, and I saw none. In my ramble, I found plenty of the beautiful +white clematis, so common both to the north and south of Sydney. + +May 14.--I was again seized with illness, though I had been particularly +careful in the quantity of flesh which I had used. For many hours I +suffered most excruciating pains; and after the violence of the attack +was over, I was left very weak, and incapable of exertion. Wylie was also +affected. It was evident that the food we were now living upon, was not +wholesome or nutritious. Day after day we felt ourselves getting weaker +and more relaxed, whilst the least change of weather, or the slightest +degree of cold, was most painfully felt by both of us. What we were to do +in the wet weather, which might daily be expected, I knew not, suffering +as we did from the frosts and dews only. In the state we now were in, I +do not think that we could have survived many days' exposure to wet. + +May 15.--I intended to have proceeded early on our journey this morning, +but was so ill again, that for some hours I could not stir. The boy was +similarly situated. About ten we got a little better, and packing up our +things, moved away, but had scarcely gone more than a couple of miles +along the beach, when I discovered that the horse-hobbles had been left +behind. It was Wylie's duty always to take these off, and strap them +round the horses necks, whilst I was arranging the saddles, and fixing on +them our arms, provisions, etc.; he had forgotten to do this, and had left +them lying on the ground. As we could not possibly do without the +hobbles, I sent Wylie back for them, telling him I would drive on the +horses slowly for a few miles, and then halt to wait for him. + +After proceeding eleven miles along the coast, I halted, and Wylie came +up a little before dark, bringing the hobbles with him. We were both very +hungry; and as we had suffered so much lately from eating the horse +flesh, we indulged to-night in a piece of bread, and a spoonful of flour +boiled into a paste, an extravagance which I knew we should have to make +up for by and bye. I had dug for water, and procured it at a depth of +five feet; but it was too brackish either to drink, or give to our +horses; we used it, however, in boiling up our flour into paste. The +afternoon was exceedingly dark and stormy looking, but only a few light +showers fell. The night then set in cold, with a heavy dew. + +May 16.--We commenced our journey at daylight, travelling along the +beach, which was very heavy for nine miles, and then halting, at a very +low part of the coast, to rest the horses. Whilst here, I dug for water, +and getting it of very fair quality, though with an effluvia very like +Harrowgate water, I decided upon remaining for the day. We were very much +fatigued, being weak and languid, and like our horses, scarcely able to +put one foot before the other. From our present encampment, some islands +were visible at a bearing of S. 18 degrees E. The tops of the hills, +also, to the back, were visible above the level bank, which formed the +continuation of the singular table land extending round the Bight, but +which was now gradually declining in elevation, and appeared as if it +would very shortly cease altogether, so that we might hope to have an +unobstructed view of the country inland. + +A jagged peak, which I named Mount Ragged, bore W. 10 degrees N., and a +round topped one W. 30 degrees N. We were now actually beyond those +hills; but the level bank, under which we had been travelling, prevented +our seeing more of them than the bare outline of their lofty summits. The +whole of the intervening country, between the level bank and the hills, +consisted of heavy sandy ridges, a good deal covered with scrub; but we +now found more grass than we had seen during the whole journey before. In +the night I was taken ill again, with violent pains, accompanied by cold +clammy sweats; and as the air was cold and raw, and a heavy dew falling, +I suffered a great deal. + +May 17.--This morning I felt rather better, but very weak, and wishing to +give the horses an opportunity of drinking, which they would not do very +early on a cold morning, I did not break up the camp until late. Upon +laying down last night Wylie had left the meat on the ground at some +distance from our fire, instead of putting it up on a bush as I had +directed him, the consequence was that a wild dog had stolen about +fourteen pounds of it whilst we slept, and we were now again reduced to a +very limited allowance. + +After travelling about five miles we found a great and important change +in the basis rock of the country; it was now a coarse imperfect kind of +grey granite, and in many places the low-water line was occupied by +immense sheets of it. Other symptoms of improvement also gradually +developed themselves. Mountain ducks were now, for the first time, seen +upon the shore, and the trunk of a very large tree was found washed up on +the beach: it was the only one we had met with during the whole course of +our journey to the westward, and I hailed it with a pleasure which was +only equalled by finding, not far beyond, a few drops of water trickling +down a huge graniterock abutting on the sea-shore. This was the only +approximation to running water which we had found since leaving Streaky +Bay, and though it hardly deserved that name, yet it imparted to me as +much hope, and almost as much satisfaction, as if I had found a river. +Continuing our course around a small bay for about five miles, we turned +into some sand-drifts behind a rocky point of the coast. from which the +islands we had seen yesterday bore E. 47 degrees S., Cape Pasley, S. W., +Point Malcolm, S. 33 degrees W., and Mount Ragged W. 32 degrees N. +Several reefs and breakers were also seen at no great distance from the +shore. + +Our stage to-day was only twelve miles, yet some of our horses were +nearly knocked up, and we ourselves in but little better condition. The +incessant walking we were subject to, the low and unwholesome diet we had +lived upon, the severe and weakening attacks of illness caused by that +diet, having daily, and sometimes twice a day, to dig for water, to carry +all our fire-wood from a distance upon our backs, to harness, unharness, +water, and attend to the horses, besides other trifling occupations, +making up our daily routine, usually so completely exhausted us, that we +had neither spirit nor energy left. Added to all other evils, the nature +of the country behind the sea-coast was as yet so sandy and scrubby that +we were still compelled to follow the beach, frequently travelling on +loose heavy sands, that rendered our stages doubly fatiguing: whilst at +nights, after the labours of the day were over, and we stood so much in +need of repose, the intense cold, and the little protection we had +against it, more frequently made it a season of most painful suffering +than of rest, and we were glad when the daylight relieved us once more. +On our march we felt generally weak and languid--it was an effort to put +one foot before the other, and there was an indisposition to exertion +that it was often very difficult to overcome. After sitting for a few +moments to rest--and we often had to do this--it was always with the +greatest unwillingness we ever moved on again. I felt, on such occasions, +that I could have sat quietly and contentedly, and let the glass of life +glide away to its last sand. There was a dreamy kind of pleasure, which +made me forgetful or careless of the circumstances and difficulties by +which I was surrounded, and which I was always indisposed to break in +upon. Wylie was even worse than myself, I had often much difficulty in +getting him to move at all, and not unfrequently was compelled almost +forcibly to get him up. Fortunately he was very good tempered, and on the +whole had behaved extremely well under all our troubles since we had been +travelling together alone. + + + + +Chapter III. + + + +HEAVY ROAD--A YOUNG KANGAROO SHOT--GRASSY COUNTRY--POINT MALCOLM--TRACES +OF ITS HAVING BEEN VISITED BY EUROPEANS--GRASS TREES MET WITH--A KANGAROO +KILLED--CATCH FISH--GET ANOTHER KANGAROO--CRAB HUNTING--RENEW THE +JOURNEY--CASUARINAE MET WITH--CROSS THE LEVEL BANK--LOW COUNTRY BEHIND +IT--CAPE ARID--SALT WATER CREEK--XAMIA SEEN--CABBAGE TREE OF THE +SOUND--FRESH WATER LAKE--MORE SALT STREAMS--OPOSSUMS CAUGHT--FLAG REEDS +FOUND--FRESH WATER STREAMS--BOATS SEEN--MEET WITH A WHALER. + + +May 18.--THIS morning we had to travel upon a soft heavy beach, and moved +slowly and with difficulty along, and three of the horses were +continually attempting to lie down on the road. At twelve miles, we found +some nice green grass, and although we could not procure water here, I +determined to halt for the sake of the horses. The weather was cool and +pleasant. From our camp Mount Ragged bore N. 35 degrees W., and the +island we had seen for the last two days, E. 18 degrees S. Having seen +some large kangaroos near our camp, I sent Wylie with the rifle to try +and get one. At dark he returned bringing home a young one, large enough +for two good meals; upon this we feasted at night, and for once Wylie +admitted that his belly was full. He commenced by eating a pound and a +half of horse-flesh, and a little bread, he then ate the entrails, +paunch, liver, lights, tail, and two hind legs of the young kangaroo, +next followed a penguin, that he had found dead upon the beach, upon this +he forced down the whole of the hide of the kangaroo after singeing the +hair off, and wound up this meal by swallowing the tough skin of the +penguin; he then made a little fire, and laid down to sleep, and dream of +the pleasures of eating, nor do I think he was ever happier in his life +than at that moment. + +May 19.--The morning set in very cold and showery, with the wind from the +southward, making us shiver terribly as we went along; luckily the +country behind the sea-shore was at this place tolerably open, and we +were for once enabled to leave the beach, and keep a little inland. The +soil was light and sandy, but tolerably fertile. In places we found low +brush, in others very handsome clumps of tea-tree scattered at intervals +over some grassy tracts of country, giving a pleasing and park-like +appearance we had long been strangers to. The grass was green, and +afforded a most grateful relief to the eye, accustomed heretofore to rest +only upon the naked sands or the gloomy scrubs we had so long been +travelling amongst. Anxious if possible to give our horses a day or two's +rest, at such a grassy place, and especially as the many kangaroos we +saw, gave us hope of obtaining food for ourselves also, I twice dug for +water, but did not find any of such quality as we could use. I was +compelled therefore to turn in among the sand-hills of Point Malcolm, +where I found excellent water at three and a half feet, and halted for +the day, after a stage of five miles. Unfortunately we were now beyond +all grass, and had to send the horses by a long and difficult road to it, +over steep sandy ridges, densely covered by scrub. Upon halting, one of +our horses lay down, appearing to be very ill, for two hours I could not +get him to rise, and was sadly afraid he would die, which would have been +a serious loss to us, for he was the strongest one we had left. A little +inside Point Malcolm, I found traces of Europeans who had slept on shore +near the beach, and upon one of the tea-trees, I found cut "Ship Julian, +1840," "Haws, 1840," "C. W." and some few other letters, which I did not +copy. The forenoon continued very wild and stormy, with occasional +showers of rain, and as we could get neither firewood nor shelter at our +camp, and the sand eddied around us in showers, we were very miserable. +After dinner, I sent Wylie out with the rifle, to try to shoot a +kangaroo, whilst I took a walk round, to look for grass, and to ascertain +whether water could not be procured in some place nearer the horses, and +better provided with firewood and shelter. My efforts were without +success, nor did I meet with better fortune, in examining Point Malcolm, +to see if there was any place where we could fish from the shore, the +point itself was of granite, but on the sheltered side the water was very +shoal, close to the shore, whilst on the outer side the waves were +breaking with frightful violence, and the spray curling and rising from +the rocks in one perpetual and lofty jet. In the evening Wylie returned +without a kangaroo. + +The night turned out showery, wild, and cold, making us keenly alive to +the bleak, shelterless position we were encamped in. + +May 20.--The sick horse was better to-day, and as they had all found +their way back to the best grass, I determined to remain in camp. Wylie +took the rifle, and again went out kangarooing, whilst I took a long walk +to examine the country, and look out for a line of road to proceed by, +when we left our present position. I was anxious, if possible, to give +over travelling along the beach where the sands were so loose and heavy, +not only causing great extra fatigue to the horses, but adding also +considerably to the distance we should otherwise have to travel. For some +distance I passed over steep ridges, densely covered with large tea-trees +or with other scrub, after which I emerged upon open sandy downs, covered +with low shrubs or bushes, and frequently having patches of good grass +interspersed; the grass-tree was here met with for the first time, but +not very abundantly. This description of country continued between the +coast and the low level bank which still shut out all view of the +interior, though it had greatly decreased in elevation as we advanced to +the west, and appeared as if it would soon merge in the level of the +country around. The day was tolerably fine, but windy, and a few slight +showers fell at intervals. At dusk I got up the horses, watered them, and +was preparing to remove the baggage to a more sheltered place, when Wylie +made his appearance, with the gratifying intelligence that he had shot +one kangaroo, and wounded another; the dead one he said was too far away +for us to get it to-night, and we, therefore, (very unwillingly,) left it +until the morning, and at present only removed our baggage nearer to the +grass, and among thick clumps of tea-trees where we had shelter and +firewood in abundance. The only inconvenience being that we were obliged +to be economical of water, having to bring it all from the sand-drifts, +and our kegs only carrying a few quarts at a time. In the prospect of a +supply of kangaroo, we finished the last of our horse-flesh to-night. It +had lasted us tolerably well, and though we had not gained above +sixty-five miles of distance, since we commenced it, yet we had +accomplished this so gradually, that the horses had not suffered so much +as might have been expected, and were improving somewhat in strength and +appearance every day. It was much to have got them to advance at all, +considering the dreadful sufferings they had endured previous to our +arrival at water on the 3rd of May. + +Getting up one of the horses early on the 21st, we took some water with +us and proceeded to where Wylie had left the kangaroo, to breakfast. +Fortunately it had not been molested by the wild dogs during the night. +Though not of a large species, it was a full grown animal, and furnished +us with a grateful supply of wholesome food. Once more Wylie enjoyed as +much as he could eat, and after breakfast, I took the horse back to the +camp, carrying with me about thirty-two pounds weight of the best and +most fleshy parts of the kangaroo. Wylie remained behind with the rifle, +to return leisurely and try to shoot another; but early in the afternoon +he returned, not having seen one. The truth, I suspect was, that he had +eaten too much to breakfast, and laid down to sleep when I was gone, +coming back to the camp as soon as he felt hungry again. The rest of the +day was taken up in attending to the horses and bringing a supply of +water up for ourselves. The weather was mild and pleasant, and a few +slight showers fell at night, but we were now so well protected among the +tea-trees, and had so much firewood, that we were not inconvenienced by +the rain. + +As I still intended to remain in camp to recruit the horses, I wished +Wylie to go out again on the 22nd, to try for another kangaroo; but the +other not being yet all used, he was very unwilling to do so, and it was +only upon my threatening to move on if he did not, that I could get him +out. As soon as he was gone, I went down to Point Malcolm to try to fish, +as the weather was now so much more moderate. Unfortunately, my tackling +was not strong, and after catching three rock-fish, weighing together +three pounds and a half; a large fish got hooked, and took great part of +my line, hook and all, away. + +It was very vexing to lose a line when I had not many, but still more so +to miss a fine fish that would have weighed fifteen or sixteen pounds. +Being obliged to come back, I spent the remainder of the afternoon in +preparing lines for the morrow. + +Towards evening Wylie returned gloomy and sulky, and without having fired +a shot; neither had he brought the horses up with him to water as I had +requested him to do, and now it was too late to go for them, and they +would have to be without water for the night. I was vexed at this, and +gave him a good scolding for his negligence, after which I endeavoured to +ascertain what had so thoroughly put him out of humour, for ordinarily he +was one of the best tempered natives I had met with: a single sentence +revealed the whole--"The----dogs had eaten the skin." + +This observation came from the very bottom of his soul, and at once gave +me an idea of the magnitude of the disappointment he had sustained; the +fact was, upon leaving the camp in the morning he had taken a firestick +in his hand, and gone straight back to where we skinned the kangaroo on +the 21st, with the intention of singeing off the hair and eating the +skin, which had been left hanging over a bush. Upon his arrival he found +it gone: the wild dogs had been beforehand with him and deprived him of +the meal he expected; hence his gloomy, discontented look upon his +return. As yet I had not told him that I had been fishing; but upon +showing him what I had brought home, and giving him the two largest for +supper, his brow again cleared, and he voluntarily offered to go out +again to try to get a kangaroo to-morrow. + +May 23.--Leaving Wylie asleep at the camp, I set off early to fish at +Point Malcolm. After catching four rock-fish, weighing five pounds, and +losing several hooks, I commenced hunting about among the rocks for +crabs, of which I procured about a dozen They were quite different from +the English crab, being very small, not more than three or four inches in +diameter, and without any meat in the inside of the shell; but the chine +and claws afforded very fair pickings. Upon returning to the camp, I +learnt from Wylie with great satisfaction that he had shot another +kangaroo as he went to bring up the horses. The latter were now at the +camp; so sending him to water them, I remained behind to dry my clothes, +which had got thoroughly wetted in catching the crabs. + +Upon Wylie's return I mounted him on one of the horses, and accompanying +him on foot, proceeded to where he had left the kangaroo; as it was only +one mile and a half away we brought it back upon the horse, entire, that +we might skin it more leisurely at the camp. It was a larger one than the +last, and promised an abundant supply of food for some days; added to +this we had five pounds of fish and a dozen crabs, so that our larder was +well and variously stocked. Upon skinning the kangaroo, Wylie carefully +singed, folded up, and put away the skin for another day, fully +determined that this time he would lose no part of the precious prize. +Having taken the paunch and emptied it, he proceeded to make a kind of +haggis (rather a dirty one to be sure), by putting into it the liver, +lights, heart, and small intestines, and then tying it up, thrust it into +the fire to be roasted whole. This seemed to be a favourite dish with +him, and he was now as happy as a king, sleeping and eating alternately +the whole night long; his only complaint now being that the water was so +far off, and that as we had to carry it all up from the sand-hills to our +camp, he could not drink so much as he should like, and in consequence, +could not eat so much either, for it required no small quantity of liquid +to wash down the enormous masses of meat that he consumed whenever he had +an opportunity. + +May 24.--Leaving Wylie to continue his feast and attend to the horses, I +went down to the beach to hunt again for crabs, of which I procured about +three dozen, but still of the same small size as before; a few larger +ones were seen in the deeper clefts of the rocks, but I could not get at +them; indeed, as it was, I was very nearly terminating my crab hunting +and expedition at the same time. The places where these animals were +obtained, were the clefts and holes among large masses and sheets of rock +close to the sea, and which were covered by it at high water; many of +these were like platforms, shelving to the sea, and terminating abruptly +in deep water. Whilst busily engaged upon one of them, in trying to get +some crabs out from its clefts, I did not notice that the surf sometimes +washed over where I stood, until whilst stooping, and in the act of +fishing out a crab, a roller came further than usual and dashing over me, +threw me down and took both me and my crabs to some distance, nearly +carrying us down the steep into the sea, from which nothing could have +rescued me, as I should soon have been dashed to pieces by the breakers +against the rocks. Having gathered up the crabs I had collected, I set +off homewards in a sad cold uncomfortable plight, with the skin scraped +off my hands and one of my heels, and with my shoes in such a state from +scrambling about among the rocks and in the wet, as strongly to indicate +to me the propriety of never attempting to go crab hunting again with my +shoes on, unless I wished to be placed altogether "hors du combat" for +walking. Wylie I found had got up the horses and watered them, and had +brought up a supply of water for the camp, so that we had nothing to do +in the afternoon but boil crabs and eat them, at which occupation I found +him wonderfully more skilful than I was, readily getting through two to +my one. + +On the 25th we still remained in camp to take advantage of the abundant +supply of food we had for ourselves, and by giving the horses a long +rest, enable them also to recruit a little upon the excellent grass which +grew in this neighbourhood. Wylie took the rifle out to try to get +another kangaroo, but did not succeed. I remained at home to mend my +boots, and prepare for advancing again to-morrow. In the afternoon we +filled our kegs, and brought away the bucket and spade from the +sand-hills, that we might be ready to move without going again to the +water. For the first time since we left Fowler's Bay we were troubled +with musquitoes. + +May 26.--Up early, and Wylie, who had been eating the whole night, was so +thirsty, that he actually walked all the way through the dew and cold of +the morning to the water to drink, as I could only afford him one pint +out of the kegs. We had now been in camp six clear days, at this most +favourable position; we had got an abundant and wholesome supply of +provisions for ourselves, and had been enabled to allow our horses to +enjoy a long unbroken interval of rest, amidst the best of pasturage, and +where there was excellent water. Now that we were again going to continue +our route, I found that the horses were so much improved in appearance +and in strength, that I thought we might once again venture, without +oppression to the animals, occasionally to ride; I selected therefore, +the strongest from among them for this purpose, and Wylie and myself +walked and rode alternately; after passing the scrubby sand-ridges, and +descending to the open downs behind them, I steered direct for Cape Arid, +cutting off Cape Pasley, and encamping after a stage of eighteen miles, +where it bore south-east of us. We halted for the night upon a ridge +timbered with casuarinae, and abounding in grass. Once more we were in a +country where trees were found, and again we were able at night to make +our fires of large logs, which did not incessantly require renewing to +prevent their going out. We had now crossed the level bank which had so +long shut out the interior from us; gradually it had declined in +elevation, until at last it had merged in the surrounding country, and we +hardly knew where it commenced, or how it ended. The high bluff and +craggy hills, whose tops we had formerly seen, stood out now in bold +relief, with a low level tract of country stretching to their base, +covered with dwarf brush, heathy plants and grass-tree, with many +intervals of open grassy land, and abounding in kangaroos. I named these +lofty and abrupt mountain masses the "Russell Range," after the Right +Honourable the Secretary of State for the Colonies--Lord John Russell. +They constitute the first great break in the character and appearance of +the country for many hundreds of miles, and they offer a point of great +interest, from which future researches may hereafter be made towards the +interior. Nearer to the coast, and on either side of Cape Pasley were +sand-drifts, in which I have no doubt that water might have been +procured. We found none where we were encamped, but had sufficient in the +kegs for our own use, and the horses were not thirsty; many and recent +tracks of natives were observed, but the people themselves were not seen. + +The morning of the 27th was exceedingly cold; and as we left our +encampments early, neither I nor Wylie were inclined to ride for the +first few miles; it was as much as we could do to keep ourselves from +shivering whilst walking; the dews were so heavy, that we were soon wet +through by the spangles from the shrubs and grass, whilst the pace at +which we travelled was not sufficiently rapid to promote a quick +circulation, and enable us to keep ourselves warm. + +At six miles we passed some sand hills, where there was every indication +of water, but I did not think it worth while delaying to try the +experiment in digging, and pushed on for four miles further, round a +bight of the coast, encamping on the east side of Cape Arid, where a +small salt water creek entered the bight. The mouth of this was closed by +a bar of sand, quite dry; nor did the salt water continue for any great +distance inland. Following it up, in the hope of finding fresh water near +its source, I found that there was none now, but that after rains +considerable streams must be poured into it from the gorges of Cape Arid. +The rocks here were all of granite; and in some of the ledges we were +fortunate enough to find abundance of water deposited by the rains, at +which we watered our horses. This being the first time we had ever been +able to do so on our whole journey without making use of the spade and +bucket. After putting the horses out upon the best grass we could find, +Wylie and I went to try our luck at fishing; the sea was boisterous, and +we caught none; but in returning, got about eight or nine crabs a-piece, +which, with some of the kangaroo that was still left, enabled us to make +our fare out tolerably. + +May 26.--In the latter part of the night the rain set in moderately, but +steadily, and both Wylie and myself were very wet and miserable. The +morning still continued showery, and I was anxious to have remained in +camp for the sake of the horses; but as we had consumed at breakfast the +last of our kangaroo, it became necessary to find some means of renewing +our resources, or else lose no time in making the best of our way +onwards. Having sent Wylie to try and get crabs, I went out with the +rifle, but could see nothing to shoot; and upon returning to the camp, I +found Wylie had been equally unsuccessful among the rocks, the sea being +too rough; there was no alternative, therefore, but to move on, and +having got up the horses, we proceeded behind Cape Arid for ten miles, at +a course of W. 15 degrees N., and encamped at night amid a clump of +tea-trees, and bastard gums, where we got good grass for our horses, but +no water. The day had been intensely cold, and I could not persuade Wylie +to ride at all. At night we had abundance of firewood, and a few of the +long narrow yams were also found at this encampment, the first vegetable +food we had yet procured. Grass trees had been abundant on our line of +route to-day, and for the first time we met with the Xamia. In the +evening, the kangaroo fly (a small brown fly) became very troublesome, +annoying us in great numbers, and warning us that rain was about to fall. +At night it came in frequent though moderate showers. We got very much +wetted, but our fire was good, and we did not suffer so much from the +cold as the damp, which affected me with cramp in the limbs, and +rheumatism. + +May 29.--After breakfasting upon a spoonful of flour a-piece, mixed with +a little water and boiled into a paste, we again proceeded. At ten miles +we came to a small salt water stream, running seawards; in passing up it +to look for a crossing place, Wylie caught two opossums, in the tops of +some tea-trees, which grew on the banks. As I hoped more might be +procured, and perhaps fresh water, by tracing it higher up, I took the +first opportunity of crossing to the opposite side, and there encamped; +Wylie now went out to search for opossums, and I traced the stream +upwards. In my route I passed several very rich patches of land in the +valleys, and on the slopes of the hills enclosing the watercourse. These +were very grassy and verdant, but I could find no fresh water, nor did I +observe any timber except the tea-tree. After tracing the stream until it +had ceased running, and merely became a chain of ponds of salt water, I +returned to the camp a good deal fatigued; Wylie came in soon after, but +had got nothing but a few yams. The general character of the country on +either side the watercourse, was undulating, of moderate elevation, and +affording a considerable extent of sheep pasturage. The cockatoos of King +George's Sound, (without the yellow crest) were here in great numbers. +Kangaroos also abounded; but the country had not brush enough to enable +us to get sufficiently near to shoot them. + +During the day Wylie had caught two opossums, and as these were entirely +the fruit of his own labour and skill, I did not interfere in their +disposal; I was curious, moreover, to see how far I could rely upon his +kindness and generosity, should circumstances ever compel me to depend +upon him for a share of what he might procure. At night, therefore, I sat +philosophically watching him whilst he proceeded to get supper ready, as +yet ignorant whether I was to partake of it or not. After selecting the +largest of the two animals, he prepared and cooked it, and then put away +the other where he intended to sleep. I now saw that he had not the +remotest intention of giving any to me, and asked him what he intended to +do with the other one. He replied that he should be hungry in the +morning, and meant to keep it until then. Upon hearing this I told him +that his arrangements were very good, and that for the future I would +follow the same system also; and that each should depend upon his own +exertions in procuring food; hinting to him that as he was so much more +skilful than I was, and as we had so very little flour left, I should be +obliged to reserve this entirely for myself, but that I hoped he would +have no difficulty in procuring as much food as he required. I was then +about to open the flour-bag and take a little out for my supper, when he +became alarmed at the idea of getting no more, and stopped me, offering +the other opossum, and volunteering to cook it properly for me. Trifling +as this little occurrence was, it read me a lesson of caution, and taught +me what value was to be placed upon the assistance or kindness of my +companion, should circumstances ever place me in a situation to be +dependent upon him; I felt a little hurt too, at experiencing so little +consideration from one whom I had treated with the greatest kindness, and +who had been clothed and fed upon my bounty, for the last fifteen months. + +May 30.--In commencing our journey this morning, our route took us over +undulating hills, devoid of timber, but having occasionally small patches +of very rich land in the valleys and upon some of the slopes. This +continued to a salt-water river, broad, and apparently deep near the sea. +As I was doubtful whether it would have a bar-mouth to seawards, I +thought it more prudent to trace it upwards, for the purpose of crossing. +At no very great distance it contracted sufficiently to enable me to get +over to the other side. But in doing so the ground proved soft and boggy, +and I nearly lost one of the horses. Four miles beyond this river we came +to another channel of salt water, but not so large as the last. In +valleys sloping down to this watercourse we met, for the first time, +clumps of a tree called by the residents of King George's Sound the +cabbage-tree, and not far from which were native wells of fresh water; +there were also several patches of rich land bordering upon the +watercourse. + +Travelling for two miles further, we came to a very pretty fresh-water +lake, of moderate size, and surrounded by clumps of tea-tree. It was the +first permanent fresh water we had found on the surface since we +commenced our journey from Fowler's Bay--a distance of nearly seven +hundred miles. I would gladly have encamped here for the night, but the +country surrounding the lake was sandy and barren, and destitute of +grass. We had only made good a distance of eleven miles from our last +camp, and I felt anxious to get on to Lucky Bay as quickly as I could, in +order that I might again give our horses a rest for a few days, which +they now began to require. From Captain Flinders' account of Lucky Bay I +knew we should find fresh water and wood in abundance. I hoped there +would also be grass, and in this case I had made up my mind to remain a +week or ten days, during which I intended to have killed the foal we had +with us, now about nine months old, could we procure food in no other +way. After leaving Lucky Bay, as we should only be about three hundred +miles from the Sound, and our horses would be in comparatively fresh +condition, I anticipated we should be able to progress more rapidly. +Indeed I fully expected it would be absolutely necessary for us to do so, +through a region which, from Flinders' description as seen from sea, and +from his having named three different hills in it Mount Barrens, we +should find neither very practicable nor fertile. + +Six miles beyond the fresh-water lake we came to another salt-water +stream, and finding, upon following up a little way, that it was only +brackish, we crossed and halted for the night. Wylie went out to search +for food, but got nothing, whilst I unharnessed and attended to the +horses, which were a good deal fagged, and then prepared the camp and +made the fires for the night: I could get nothing but grass-tree for this +purpose, but it was both abundant and dry. Owing to its very resinous +nature, this tree burns with great heat and brilliancy, emitting a +grateful aromatic odour. It is easily lit up, makes a most cheerful fire, +and notwithstanding the fervency with which it burns, does not often +require renewing, if the tree be large. Our whole journey to-day had been +over undulations of about three hundred feet in elevation; the country +rose a little inland, and a few occasional bluffs of granite were +observed in the distance, but no timber was seen any where. At night the +flies and mosquitoes were very troublesome to us. + +May 31.--The morning showery, and bitterly cold, so that, for the first +two hours after starting, we suffered considerably, After travelling for +seven miles and a half, through an undulating and bare country, we came +to a salt-water river, with some patches of good land about it. Having +crossed the river a little way up where it became narrower, we again +proceeded for five miles farther, through the same character of country, +and were then stopped by another salt stream, which gave us a great deal +of trouble to effect a crossing. We had traced it up to where the channel +was narrow, but the bed was very deep, and the water running strongly +between banks of rich black soil. Our horses would not face this at +first, and in forcing them over we were nearly losing two of them. After +travelling only a quarter of a mile beyond this stream I was chagrined to +find we had crossed it just above the junction of two branches, and that +we had still one of them to get over; the second was even more difficult +to pass than the first, and whilst I was on the far side, holding one of +the horses by a rope, with Wylie behind driving him on, the animal made a +sudden and violent leap, and coming full upon me, knocked me down and +bruised me considerably. One of his fore legs struck me on the thigh, and +I narrowly escaped having it broken, whilst a hind leg caught me on the +shin, and cut me severely. + +As soon as we were fairly over I halted for the night, to rest myself and +give Wylie an opportunity of looking for food. The water in both branches +of this river was only brackish where we crossed, and at that which we +encamped upon but slightly so. + +There were many grass-trees in the vicinity, and as several of these had +been broken down and were dead they were full of the white grubs of which +the natives are so fond. From these Wylie enjoyed a plentiful, and to +him, luxurious supper. I could not bring myself to try them, preferring +the root of the broad flag-reed, which, for the first time, we met with +at this stream, and which is an excellent and nutritious article of food. +This root being dug up, and roasted in hot ashes, yields a great quantity +of a mealy farinaceous powder interspersed among the fibres; it is of an +agreeable flavour, wholesome, and satisfying to the appetite. In all +parts of Australia, even where other food abounds, the root of this reed +is a favourite and staple article of diet among the aborigines. The +proper season of the year for procuring it in full perfection, is after +the floods have receded, and the leaves have died away and been burnt +off. It is that species of reed of which the leaves are used by coopers +for closing up crevices between the staves of their casks. + +June 1.--Upon getting up this morning I found myself very stiff and sore +from the bruises I had received yesterday, yet I felt thankful that I had +escaped so well; had any of my limbs been broken, I should have been in a +dreadful position, and in all probability must have perished. After Wylie +had dug up some of the flag-roots for breakfast, and a few to take with +us, we proceeded on our journey. I was anxious to have made a long stage, +and if possible, to have reached Thistle Cove by night; but the country +we had to pass over was heavy and sandy, and after travelling fifteen +miles, the horses became so jaded, that I was obliged to turn in among +some sand-drifts near the coast, and halt for the night. The course we +had been steering for the last few days towards Lucky Bay, had gradually +brought us close to the coast again, and during a part of our journey +this afternoon we were travelling upon the sea-shore. At ten miles after +starting, we crossed a strong stream of fresh water running through some +sandy flats into the sea; a mile and a half beyond this we crossed a +second stream; and half a mile further a third, all running strongly, +with narrow channels, into the sea, and quite fresh. Fresh water was also +laying about every where on our road in large pools; a proof of the very +heavy rains that had lately fallen. We were, therefore, enjoying the +advantages of a wet season without having been subject to its inclemency, +and which, in our present weak, unprotected state, we could hardly have +endured. The country to the back was sandy and undulating, covered +principally with low shrubs, and rising inland; there were also several +granite bluffs at intervals, from among which, the streams I had crossed, +probably took their rise; but there were no trees to be seen any where, +except a few of the tea of cabbage-trees. I do not think that any of the +three fresh-water streams we had crossed would be permanent, their +present current being owing entirely to the recent rains; but when they +are running, and the weather is moderately fair, they afford an admirable +opportunity of watering a vessel with very little trouble, the water +being clear and pure to its very junction with the sea. + +At night we made our supper of the flag-roots we had brought with us, and +a spoonful of flour a-piece, boiled into a paste. The night was very cold +and windy, and having neither shelter nor fire-wood at the sand-drifts +where we were, we spent it miserably. + +June 2.--As we had made a shorter stage yesterday than I intended to have +done, and the quantity of flour we had now remaining was very small, I +did not dare to make use of any this morning, and we commenced our +journey without breakfast. Being now near Thistle Cove, where I intended +to halt for some time, and kill the little foal for food, whilst the +other horses were recruiting, and as I hoped to get there early this +afternoon, I was anxious to husband our little stock of flour in the +hope, that at the little fresh-water lake described by Flinders, as +existing there, we should find abundance of the flag-reed for our +support. Keeping a little behind the shore for the first hour, we crossed +over the sandy ridge bounding it, and upon looking towards the sea, I +thought I discovered a boat sailing in the bay. Upon pointing this object +out to Wylie, he was of the same opinion with myself, and we at once +descended towards the shore, but on our arrival were greatly disappointed +at not being able again to see the object of our search. In the course of +half an hour, however, whilst resting ourselves and watching the surface +of the ocean, it again became visible, and soon after a second appeared. +It was now evident that both these were boats, and that we had noticed +them only when standing off shore, and the light shone upon their sails, +and had lost them when upon the opposite tack. It was equally apparent +they were standing out from the main land for the islands. I imagined +them to be sealers, who having entered the bay to procure water or +firewood, were again steering towards the islands to fish. Having hastily +made a fire upon one of the sand-hills, we fired shots, shouted, waved +handkerchiefs, and made every signal we could to attract attention, but +in vain. They were too far away to see, or too busy to look towards us. +The hopes we had entertained were as suddenly disappointed as they had +been excited, and we stood silently and sullenly gazing after the boats +as they gradually receded from our view. + +Whilst thus occupied and brooding over our disappointment, we were +surprised to see both boats suddenly lower their sails, and apparently +commence fishing. Watching them steadily we now perceived that they were +whale boats, and once more our hearts beat with hope, for I felt sure +that they must belong to some vessel whaling in the neighbourhood. We now +anxiously scanned the horizon in every direction, and at last were +delighted beyond measure to perceive to the westward the masts of a large +ship, peeping above a rocky island which had heretofore concealed her +from our view. She was apparently about six miles from us, and as far as +we could judge from so great a distance, seemed to be at anchor near the +shore. + +Poor Wylie's joy now knew no bounds, and he leapt and skipped about with +delight as he congratulated me once more upon the prospect of getting +plenty to eat. I was not less pleased than he was, and almost as absurd, +for although the vessel was quietly at anchor so near us, with no sails +loose and her boats away, I could not help fearing that she might +disappear before we could get to her, or attract the notice of those on +board. To prevent such a calamity, I mounted one of the strongest horses +and pushed on by myself as rapidly as the heavy nature of the sands would +allow, leaving Wylie at his own especial request to bring on the other +horses. In a short time I arrived upon the summit of a rocky cliff, +opposite to a fine large barque lying at anchor in a well sheltered bay, +(which I subsequently named Rossiter Bay, after the captain of the +whaler,) immediately east of Lucky Bay, and at less than a quarter of a +mile distant from the shore. The people on board appeared to be busily +engaged in clearing their cables which were foul, and did not observe me +at all. I tied up my horse, therefore, to a bush, and waited for Wylie, +who was not long in coming after me, having driven the poor horses at a +pace they had not been accustomed to for many a long day. I now made a +smoke on the rock where I was, and hailed the vessel, upon which a boat +instantly put off, and in a few moments I had the inexpressible pleasure +of being again among civilized beings, and of shaking hands with a +fellow-countryman in the person of Captain Rossiter, commanding the +French Whaler "Mississippi." + +Our story was soon told, and we were received with the greatest kindness +and hospitality by the captain. + + + + +Chapter IV. + + + +GO ON BOARD THE MISSISSIPPI--WET WEATHER--VISIT LUCKY BAY--INTERVIEW WITH +NATIVES--WYLIE UNDERSTANDS THEIR LANGUAGE--GET THE HORSES SHOD--PREPARE +TO LEAVE THE VESSEL--KINDNESS AND LIBERALITY OF CAPTAIN ROSSITER--RENEW +JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD--FOSSIL FORMATION STILL CONTINUES--SALT WATER +STREAMS AND LAKES--A LARGE SALT RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + + +June 2.--AFTER watering the horses at a deposit left by the rains, in the +sheets of granite near us, and turning them loose, we piled up our little +baggage, and in less than an hour we were comfortably domiciled on board +the hospitable Mississippi,--a change in our circumstances so great, so +sudden, and so unexpected, that it seemed more like a dream than a +reality; from the solitary loneliness of the wilderness, and its +attendant privations, we were at once removed to all the comforts of a +civilised community. + +After we had done ample justice to the good cheer set before us, by our +worthy host, he kindly invited us to remain on board as long as we +pleased, to recruit our horses, and told us, that when we felt refreshed +sufficiently to renew the journey, he would supply us with such stores +and other articles as we might require. I learnt that the Mississippi had +but recently arrived from France, and that she had only been three weeks +upon the ground she had taken up for the season's whaling. As yet no +whales had been seen, and the season was said not to commence before the +end of June or beginning of July. The boats I saw in the morning belonged +to her, and had been out chasing what they thought to be a whale, but +which proved to be only a fin-back, a species which was not thought to +repay the trouble of trying out. + +Early in the evening the whalers retired to rest, and I had a comfortable +berth provided for me in the cabin, but could not sleep; my thoughts were +too much occupied in reflecting upon the great change which the last few +hours had wrought in the position of myself and my attendant. Sincerely +grateful to the Almighty for having guided us through so many +difficulties, and for the inexpressible relief afforded us when so much +needed, but so little expected, I felt doubly thankful for the mercy we +experienced, when, as I lay awake, I heard the wind roar, and the rain +drive with unusual wildness, and reflected that by God's blessing, we +were now in safety, and under shelter from the violence of the storm, and +the inclemency of the west season, which appeared to be setting in, but +which, under the circumstances we were in but a few short hours ago, we +should have been so little able to cope with, or to endure. + +June 3.--I arose at day-break, as I found the whalers breakfasted +betimes, to enable them to send their boats away to look out, at an early +hour. In fact, during the season, I was informed, that it was not unusual +to send them to their posts before the break of day, and especially so, +if other vessels were in company, or there was any competition. After +breakfast I landed with the Captain, to get up and inspect the horses; +poor animals they had not gone far and were doubtless glad at not being +required to march away to-day. I was only sorry that the country did not +abound more in grass. Plenty of water left by the rains was procurable, +in the ledges of the granite rocks, but the vegetation was scanty, the +soil being very sandy, and covered principally with small shrubs, heathy +plants, etc. + +Leaving the horses to enjoy their respite from labour, I accompanied the +Captain to see a garden made by the sailors, in which peas and potatoes +had already been planted, and appeared to be growing well. A rich piece +of land had been selected on a slope, bordering upon a salt water creek, +which here wound through the level country towards the sea. The water in +this creek, was brackish in the upper part, but seaward it was quite +salt, it had a bar mouth of sand, which was quite dry. Unfortunately, the +Captain had no garden seeds but the peas and potatoes, so that their +labours were confined to cultivating these; otherwise during the many +months spent by them in bay whaling, they might have abundantly supplied +themselves with a variety of vegetables, at once an agreeable and +wholesome addition to the ordinary diet on board ship. After dinner I +went with the Captain to visit an island near, upon which he kept his +live stock, such as pigs, sheep, and tortoises; the two latter had been +procured from the west side of the island of Madagascar; the sheep were +strange looking animals, more like goats than sheep, of all colours, and +with fat tails, like the Cape sheep. Their cost at Madagascar had been a +tumbler full of powder a piece; a bullock would have cost ten bottles +full, and other things could have been procured at proportionable prices. +The principal articles in request among the Madagases, were said to be +powder, brass headed trunk nails, muskets, gun-flints, clear claret +bottles, looking-glasses, and cutlery. + +The greater part of the day was very cold and showery, and I remained +quietly on board, reading some old English papers. Wylie was as happy as +he could be. It was true he did not understand a word spoken by those +around him (for not a soul on board spoke English but the Captain), but +he had as much to eat as he desired; and to do him justice, I believe he +made the most of the opportunity. On the other hand, his capacity for +eating entertained the Frenchmen, with the exception, perhaps, of his +first meal on board, and then, I believe, that the immense number of +biscuits he devoured, and the amazing rapidity with which they +disappeared, not only astounded, but absolutely alarmed them. Fish were +caught in great numbers from the ship's side, mackarel and baracoota +being obtained every day. Other varieties might have been procured off +the rocks near the shore, from which there were many places well adapted +for fishing. Periwinkles abounded, and crabs were numerous among the +crevices of the rocks. Altogether, this seemed to be a most favourable +place; and had we not met with the vessel, it would have held out to us +the prospect of obtaining as abundant a supply of food for ourselves as +we had got at Point Malcolm, without the necessity of destroying the poor +foal. The night again set in very wild, cold, and wet. + +June 4.--This morning the weather appeared tolerably fine, and I landed +with the French doctor for the purpose of walking across to Thistle Cove. +After travelling four miles over a sandy heathy country, we arrived at +the pretty little fresh water lake, so accurately described by Captain +Flinders, and which I had so anxiously looked forward to attaining, that +we might halt to rest, and recruit the horses. There is no timber around +the lake, beyond a few xamias, grass trees, and some stunted tea-trees; +neither was there much grass. In other respects, I could not have pitched +upon a more favourable place to have halted at: for near the lake +abounded the flag reed, of which the root was so valuable for food. This +one article would have supported us well during our stay here, whilst the +many bluff rocks, with deep calm water close to them, extending all +around the promontory which projected into the sea, and round the bay, +held out great promise that fish could readily have been caught. Ducks +were also numerous in the lake, and kangaroos on shore. The day turned +out very bleak and wet, and we both got thoroughly soaked through before +we got back to the vessel, which was not until about two in the +afternoon; I was then obliged to borrow a dry suit from the Captain, +whilst my own clothes were drying. + +June 5.--From this time until the fourteenth of June I remained on board +the Mississippi, enjoying the hospitality of Captain Rossiter. Wylie went +out once or twice to try to shoot a kangaroo for the ship, but he never +succeeded; he had so much to eat on board that he had no stimulus to +exertion, and did not take the trouble necessary to insure success. +During almost the whole of the time that I remained on board the +Mississippi, the weather was exceedingly boisterous, cold, and wet, and I +could not but feel truly thankful that I had not been exposed to it on +shore; even on board the ship, with shelter and extra clothing, I felt +very sensibly the great change which had taken place in the temperature. + +I regretted greatly that during my stay I had not the opportunity of +seeing a whale caught. There was only once an attempt at a chase. In this +instance three boats were sent out, commanded by the Captain and the two +mates, but after a considerable lapse of time, and a long interval of +suspense and anxiety, the fish chased turned out to be a hump-back, and +as this was not deemed worth catching, the boats returned to the ship. +The life led by the whalers, as far as I was able to judge, from the +short time I was with them, seemed to be one of regularity, but of +considerable hardship. At half-past six or seven in the evening they +invariably went to bed, but were up at the first dawn of day, and +sometimes even before it, the boats were then usually sent to a distance +from the ship to look out for whales, and whether fortunate or otherwise, +they would always have a pretty hard day's work before they returned. +They were, however, well fed, being apparently even better dieted than +the generality of merchant-ships; the bread was of a better quality, and +the allowance of butter, cheese, beans, and other little luxuries much +more liberal. In the Mississippi the crew were generally young men, and +with few exceptions all were complete novices at sea; this I was told was +in consequence of an expected war between England and France, and the +prohibition of able seamen from leaving their country. Captain Rossiter +assured me that he had not been allowed for a considerable length of time +to sail at all from France, as the war was daily expected to break out. +He was still ignorant as to what had been done in this respect, and +naturally felt very anxious at being, as he might imagine, on an enemy's +coast. + +During the time I remained on board the vessel, a party of natives once +or twice came down to the beach, and as I was anxious to enter into +commucation with them, two were induced to get into the boat and come on +board; as I expected, my boy Wylie fully understood the language spoken +in this part of the country, and could converse with them fluently. +Through him I learnt that they had never seen white people before the +Mississippi anchored here, which was somewhat singular, considering the +frankness with which they visited us, and the degree of confidence they +appeared to repose in us. Of the interior I could gain no satisfactory +account, they said that as far inland as they were acquainted with the +country, it was similar to what we saw, that there was an abundance of +water in the valleys in small wells, that there was a lake and fresh +water river, but that there was little or no wood anywhere. In turn they +were curious to know where we had come from, or where we were going; but +Wylie, who in this respect, at least, was prudent and cautious, told them +that we had come from the eastward to join the ship, and were now going +to remain. Finding I could gain no further useful information, presents +of fish and biscuits were made to them, and they were put on shore, +highly pleased with their visit. During the remainder of my stay, I had +no further opportunity of entering into conversation with these people, +as the weather was generally wild, and they could not procure much +shelter or fire-wood on the coast, had they come down to see us. + +A few days before I contemplated commencing the renewal of my journey, I +requested the Captain to allow a blacksmith he had on board to shoe my +horses, and to this he kindly consented, but as a scarcity of iron +prevailed, some old harpoons and lances had to be worked up for this +purpose. The blacksmith who was a Frenchman, made his shoes and nails in +so different, and apparently in so much more clumsy manner than I was +accustomed to, that I was almost afraid of letting him put them on, and +tried hard, but in vain, to get him to imitate the English shoe and nail +in ordinary use. + +Finding that I was likely to derive no advantage from my officious +interference, I determined to let him have his own way, and was surprised +and delighted to find that he performed his work well and skilfully, the +only unusual part of the operation to me, being the necessity he appeared +to be under, of always having a man to hold up the leg of the horse +whilst he put the shoe on, instead of holding the foot up himself, as an +English blacksmith does; such however, he assured me was the practice +always in France, and he appeared to think it the best too. Having had my +horses shod, I got some canvass from the Captain, to make bags for +carrying my provisions, and then giving him a list of stores that I +wished to take with me, I commenced preparations for leaving my +hospitable entertainer. Every thing that I wished for, was given to me +with a kindness and liberality beyond what I could have expected; and it +gives me unfeigned pleasure, to have it now in my power to record thus +publicly the obligations I was under to Captain Rossiter. + +On the 14th, I landed the stores, to arrange and pack them ready for the +journey. They consisted of forty pounds of flour, six pounds of biscuit, +twelve pounds of rice, twenty pounds of beef, twenty pounds of pork, +twelve pounds of sugar, one pound of tea, a Dutch cheese, five pounds of +salt butter, a little salt, two bottles of brandy, and two tin saucepans +for cooking; besides some tobacco and pipes for Wylie, who was a great +smoker, and the canteens filled with treacle for him to eat with rice. +The great difficulty was now, how to arrange for the payment of the +various supplies I had been furnished with, as I had no money with me, +and it was a matter of uncertainty, whether the ship would touch at any +of the Australian colonies. Captain Rossiter however, said that he had +some intention of calling at King George's Sound, when the Bay whaling +was over, and as that was the place to which I was myself going, I gave +him an order upon Mr. Sherratt, who had previously acted as my agent +there in the transaction of some business matters in 1840. To this day, +however, I have never learnt whether Captain Rossiter visited King +George's Sound or not. + +In arranging the payment, I could not induce the Captain to receive any +thing for the twelve days' that we had been resident in the ship, nor +would he allow me to pay for some very comfortable warm clothing, which +he supplied me with, both for myself and Wylie. Independently too of the +things which I had drawn from the ship's stores, Captain Rossiter +generously and earnestly pressed me to take any thing that I thought +would be serviceable to me from his own private stock of clothes. The +attention and hospitality shewn me, during my stay on board the vessel, +and the kindness and liberality which I experienced at my departure, will +long be remembered by me with feelings of gratitude. In the evening I +slept on shore, and got every thing ready for commencing my labours again +in the morning. + +June 15.--Early this morning the boat came on shore for me, and I went on +board to take a farewell breakfast, in the Mississippi, and to wish good +bye to her kind-hearted people. At eight I landed with the Captain, got +up my horses and loaded them, a matter of some little time and trouble, +now my stock of provisions and other things was so greatly augmented; in +addition too to all I had accumulated before, the Captain insisted now +upon my taking six bottles of wine, and a tin of sardines. + +Having received a few letters to be posted at Albany for France, I asked +the Captain if there was anything else I could do for him, but he said +there was not. The only subject upon which he was at all anxious, was to +ascertain whether a war had broken out between France and England or not. +In the event of this being the case, he wished me not to mention having +seen a French vessel upon the coast, and I promised to comply with his +request. + +After wishing my kind host good bye, and directing Wylie to lead one of +the horses in advance, I brought up the rear, driving the others before +me. Once again we had a long and arduous journey before us, and were +wending our lonely way through the unknown and untrodden wilds. We were, +however, in very different circumstances now, to what we had been in +previous to our meeting with the French ship. The respite we had had from +our labours, and the generous living we had enjoyed, had rendered us +comparatively fresh and strong. We had now with us an abundance, not only +of the necessaries, but of the luxuries of life; were better clothed, and +provided against the inclemency of the weather than we had been; and +entered upon the continuation of our undertaking with a spirit, an +energy, and a confidence, that we had long been strangers to. + +From the great additional weight we had now to carry upon the horses, we +were again obliged to give up riding even in turn, and had both to walk. +This was comparatively of little consequence, however, now we were so +well provided with every thing we could require, and the country appeared +to be so well watered, that we could arrange our stages almost according +to our own wishes. + +Steering to the north-west we passed over a sandy country, covered with +low heathy plants, and grasstrees, and having granite elevations +scattered over its surface at intervals. Under these hills fresh water +swamps and native wells were constantly met with, and at one of them we +encamped for the night, after a stage of about four miles. + +During the day, we passed a variety of beautiful shrubs, and among them +were many different kind of Banksias, one was quite new to me, and had a +scarlet flower, which was very handsome. The fossil formation still +constituted the geological character of the country, most of the lower +ridges of rock intervening between the various hills of granite, +exhibiting shells in great abundance. In the more level parts, the +surface was so coated over with sand, that nothing else could be seen. I +have no doubt, however, that the whole of the substrata would have been +found an uninterrupted continuation of the tertiary deposit. + +At night I observed native fires about a mile from us, in a direction +towards the sea; but the natives did not come near us, nor was I myself +anxious to come into communication with them whilst my party was so +small. + +The evening had set in with steady rain, which continuing with little +intermission during the night, wet us considerably. + +June 16.--This morning, I found I had caught cold, and was very unwell. +Upon leaving the encampment, we steered N. 30 degrees W. to clear a rocky +hill, passing which, on our left at six miles, we changed the course to +W. 10 degrees N. Three miles from the hill, we crossed a small stream of +brackish water running very strongly towards the sea, and then halted for +the day upon it, after a short stage. The country we had traversed in our +route, still consisted of the same sandy plains and undulations, covered +with low shrubs, heathy plants, grass and cabbage-trees, with here and +there elevations of granite, and fresh water swamps: in and around which, +the soil was black and very rich; very little wood was to be met with +anywhere, and nothing that deserved the appellation of trees. + +The country, inland, appeared to rise gradually, but did not seem to +differ in character and features from that we were traversing. + +June 17.--A little before daylight it commenced raining, and continued +showery all day, and though we got wet several times, we experienced +great comfort from the warm clothing we had obtained from Captain +Rossiter. Upon ascending the hills, above our camp, which confined the +waters of the little stream we were upon, we could trace its course +south-west by south, to a small lake lying in the same direction, and +which it appeared to empty into. A second small lake was observable to +the north-west of the first. Two and a half miles from our camp, we +passed a granite elevation, near which, were many fresh swamps, +permanently, I think, abounding in water and having much rich and grassy +land around, of which the soil was a deep black, and but little mixed +with sand. For the next three miles and a half, our route lay over a rich +swampy grassy land, and we were literally walking all the way in water +left by the rains; besides crossing in that distance two fresh water +streams, running strongly towards the sea, and both emptying into small +lakes seen under the coast ridges. The largest of these two was one yard +and a half wide and a foot deep, and appeared of a permanent character. +We now ascended an undulating and rather more elevated tract of country +of an oolitic limestone formation, most luxuriantly clothed with the +richest grass, and having several lakes interspersed among the hollows +between the ridges. Near this we halted for the night under some of the +coast sand-hills, after a day's stage of twelve miles. We had splendid +feed for our horses, but were without any water for ourselves, being +unable to carry any with us, as the canteens were full of treacle. From +our camp, a peak, near Cape le Grand, bore E. 33 degrees S. + +June 18.--During the night heavy showers had fallen, and in the oilskins +we caught as much water as sufficed for our tea. After breakfast we +proceeded onwards, and at a little more than three miles came to the +borders of a large salt lake, lying southwest and north-east, and being +one of two noted by Captain Flinders as having been copied into his map +from a French chart. Following the borders of the lake for a mile we +found abundance of fresh water under the banks by which it was inclosed, +and which, judging from the rushes and grasses about it, and the many +traces of native encampments, I imagine to be permanent. The lake itself +was in a hollow sunk in the fossil formation, which was now very clearly +recognisable in the high banks surrounding the lake, and which varied +from sixty to a hundred and fifty feet in elevation, and were generally +pretty steep towards the shore. The day being fine I halted at this place +to re-arrange the loads of the horses and take bearings. + +A year had now elapsed since I first entered upon the Northern +Expedition. This day twelve months ago I had left Adelaide to commence +the undertaking, cheered by the presence and good wishes of many friends, +and proudly commanding a small but gallant party--alas, where were they +now? Painful and bitter were the thoughts that occupied my mind as I +contrasted the circumstances of my departure then with my position now, +and when I reflected that of all whose spirit and enterprise had led them +to engage in the undertaking, two lone wanderers only remained to attempt +its conclusion. + +June 19.--The dew was very heavy this morning, and we did not start until +rather late, travelling through a very grassy country, abounding in fresh +swamps of a soft peaty soil, and often with the broad flag-reed growing +in them. All these places were boggy and impassable for horses. In +attempting to cross one a horse sunk up to his haunches, and we had much +difficulty in extricating him. At five miles from our camp we ascended +some high ridges of an oolitic limestone formation, which were partially +covered by drift-sand, and in the distance looked like the ridge of a sea +shore. From their summit Cape le Grand bore E. 27 degrees S., the peak +called by the French the "Chapeau," E. 23 degrees S., and the head of the +salt-water lake E. 10 degrees S. We had now a succession of barren, sandy +and stony ridges for more than three miles, and as there was but little +prospect of our finding permanent water in such a miserable region, I +took the opportunity of halting at a little rain water deposited in a +hole of the rocks; here we procured enough for ourselves, but could not +obtain any for the horses. Our camp not being far from the coast, I +walked after dinner to the sand-hills to take bearings. Several islands +were visible, of which the centres were set at S. 10 degrees W., S. 26 +degrees W., E. 41 degrees S., E. 44 degrees S. and S. 33 degrees E. +respectively; the west point of a bay bore S. 51 degrees W. the eastern +point E. 36 degrees S. Upon digging for water under the sand-hills it was +found to be salt. + +June 20.--Rain fell lightly but steadily until one P.M., making it very +disagreeable travelling through the rugged and stony ridges we had to +encounter, and which were a good deal covered with scrub and brush. About +four miles from our camp of last night we crossed high stony ridges, and +immediately beyond came to some steep sand-drifts, among the hollows of +which I dug for water, but at five feet was stopped by rock. The scrubby, +hilly, and rugged nature of the back country, generally about three +hundred feet above the level of the sea, now compelled me to keep the +beach for five miles, from which I was then again driven by the hills +terminating abruptly towards the sea, and forcing me to scale a steep +stony range, which for four miles and a half kept us incessantly toiling +up one rugged ascent after another. We then came to an extensive hollow, +being a partial break in the fossil formation, and having two large lakes +and many smaller ones interspersed over its surface. Around the margins +of the lakes we again found timber--the tea-tree and the bastard gum. The +water in the lakes was salt, but some slight elevations of granite +afforded us in their hollows an abundance of water for ourselves and +horses. The traces of natives were numerous and recent, but yet we saw +none. Swans, ducks, and wild fowl of various kinds were in great numbers, +and kept up an unceasing noise at night whilst passing from one lake to +the other. Our stage had been twelve miles and a half, but the hilly and +rugged nature of the road had made it severe upon the horses, whilst the +wet overhead and the wet grass under our feet made it equally harassing +to ourselves. From our encampment some white drifts in the coast line +bore S. 35 degrees E., and probably were the "white streak in the +sand-hills" of Flinders. + +June 21.--We did not get away until late, but the dew had been so heavy +during the night that even then the shrubs and bushes wet us completely +through, and made our journey cold and miserable. After travelling a +short distance we lost all symptoms of grass, and the country was again +sandy and barren, and covered with shrubs and heathy plants. In this +region we passed two native women and a boy, within gun-shot of us; but +as they were so intent upon their occupation of digging roots, and did +not notice us, I was unwilling to alarm them, and we passed silently by. +At six miles we came to a fine deep hole of excellent water about thirty +yards in circumference. It was situated in a narrow, short, but steep and +rocky gorge, and is, I think, permanent. Four miles beyond this we +crossed a chain of salt ponds, trending seawards, towards an apparent gap +in the coast-line; and six miles further another. Upon the latter we +halted for the night, as there was good grass for the horses, and +brackish water was procurable a little way up the stream, where it +divided into branches. The constant travelling in the wet for the last +few days began now to affect our limbs considerably, and upon halting at +nights we found our feet always much swollen, and our legs generally +stiff and cramped. + +June 22.--A very heavy dew fell in the night, and we were again condemned +to wade for three hours up to our middle among the wet brush; after which +the day became fine, and we got our clothes dried. Travelling for two and +a half miles, we crossed another small brackish chain of ponds, and then +ascending rather higher ground, obtained a view of a large lake under the +sand-hills, into which the channel we encamped upon last night emptied +itself. The lake appeared as if it were deep, and its dark blue colour +led me to imagine there might be a junction with the sea towards the +south-west, where the low appearance of the coast ridge indicated a gap +or opening of some kind. At four miles from our last night's encampment +we were stopped by a large salt-water river, fully a hundred yards wide, +and increasing to three or four times that size as it trended to its +junction with the large lake, and which was visible from the hills above +the river. This river was deep where we first struck upon it, but +appeared to be much more so towards the lake, where the water was of a +dark blue colour, as was that also of the lake itself. This confirmed me +in my opinion that there must be a junction with the sea; but +unfortunately I was obliged to trace its course upwards, for the purpose +of crossing, and the circumstances under which I was travelling precluded +me from delaying, or going so far back out of my way to examine its +mouth. I dared not leave Wylie in charge of the camp for the time +necessary for me to have gone alone; and to take the horses such a +distance, and through a rough or heavy country, on the uncertainty of +procuring for them either grass or water, would have been a risk which, +in their condition, I did not think myself justified in incurring. + +After tracing the river northerly for two miles and a half, I found it +divided into two branches, and though these were still of considerable +size, yet a ledge of rocks extending across the channels enabled us to +effect a passage to the other side. At the place where we crossed, the +stream running over the rocks was only slightly brackish, and we watered +our horses there; had we traced it a little further it might possibly +have been quite fresh, but we had no time for this, for Wylie having +taken charge of the horses but for a few moments, whilst I had been +examining the river for a crossing place, contrived to frighten them all +in some way or other, and set them off at a gallop; the result was, that +our baggage was greatly disturbed, and many things knocked off and +damaged, whilst it took us some time again to get our horses and +re-arrange the loads. + +The valley through which the river took its course, was rocky, with +sheets of granite extending in many places to the water's edge. There was +abundance of good grass, however, and in its upper branches, probably, +there might have been some considerable extent of pasturage. The trees +growing upon the margin, were the paper-barked tea-tree, and the bastard +gum. + +Leaving the river, and proceeding over an undulating sandy country, +without timber, but covered with shrubs, we passed at six miles between +two small lakes, and in three more descended to a deep valley among +granite rocks; here we encamped after a stage of sixteen miles, with +plenty of fresh water in pools, and very fair grass for the horses, about +a mile and a half before we halted, we had obtained a view to seawards, +and I set the "Rocky Islets" at a bearing of S. 25 degrees W. + +The character of the country generally, through which we travelled +to-day, was very similar to that we had so long been traversing. Its +general elevation above the level of the sea, was about three hundred +feet, and to a distant observer, it seemed to be a perfect table land, +unbroken to the horizon, and destitute of all timber or trees, except +occasionally a few cabbage-trees, grass-trees, or minor shrubs; it was +also without grass. Upon crossing this region deep gorges or valleys are +met with, through which flow brackish or salt-water streams, and shading +these are found the tea-tree and the bastard gum. The steep banks which +inclose the valleys, through which the streams take their course, and +which until lately we had found of an oolitic limestone, now exhibited +granite, quartz, sandstone or iron-stone. + +June 23.--Our horses having rambled some distance back upon our +yesterday's tracks, it was late when they were recovered, and we did not +get away until eleven. After travelling a mile and a half, we crossed a +stream of most excellent water running over a bed of granite, in which +were some large deep pools with reeds growing around their margins. A +branch of this watercourse was crossed a little further on, but was quite +dry where we passed it. + +Nine miles from our last night's camp a view of the "Rocky Islets" was +obtained from a hill, and set at due south. Immediately on descending +from the hill we crossed a salt chain of ponds in a bed of sandstone and +ironstone, and nine miles beyond this we came to another, also of salt +water; here we halted for the night as there was tolerable grass for the +horses, and we were fortunate enough to discover fresh water in a granite +rock. + +In the course of the afternoon I obtained a view of a very distant hill +bearing from us W.8 degrees S. This I took to be the east Mount Barren of +Flinders; but it was still very far away, and the intervening country +looked barren and unpromising. During the day our route had still been +over the same character of country as before, with this exception, that +it was more stony and barren, with breccia or iron-stone grit covering +the surface. The streams were less frequently met with, and were of a +greatly inferior character, consisting now principally of only chains of +small stagnant ponds of salt water, destitute of grass, and without any +good soil in the hollows through which they took their course. Many of +these, and especially those we crossed in the latter part of the day, +were quite dry, and appeared to be nothing more than deep gutters washed +by heavy rains between the undulations of the country. + +The rock formation, where it was developed, was exclusively sandstone or +ironstone, with inferior granite; and even the higher levels, which had +heretofore been of a sandy nature, were now rugged and stony, and more +sterile than before; the grasstrees, which generally accommodate +themselves to any soil, were stunted and diminutive, and by no means so +abundant as before. The general elevation of the country still appeared +to be the same. I estimated it at about three hundred feet. + +One circumstance, which struck me as rather singular, with regard to the +last forty miles of country we had traversed, was, that it did not appear +to have experienced the same weather as there had been to the eastward. +The little water we found deposited in the rocks, plainly indicated that +the late rains had either not fallen here at all, or in a much less +degree than they had, in the direction we had come from; whilst the dry +and withered state of any little grass that we found, convinced me that +the earlier rains had still been more partial, so great was the contrast +between the rich luxuriance of the long green grass we had met with +before, and the few dry withered bunches of last year's growth, which we +fell in with now. + + + + +Chapter V. + + + +LARGE WATERCOURSE--LAKE OF FRESH WATER--HEAVY RAINS--REACH MOUNT +BARREN--SALT LAKES AND STREAMS--BARREN SCRUBBY COUNTRY--RANGES BEHIND +KING GEORGE'S SOUND ARE SEEN--BRACKISH PONDS--PASS CAPE RICHE--A LARGE +SALT RIVER--CHAINS OF PONDS--GOOD LAND--HEAVILY TIMBERED COUNTRY--COLD +WEATHER--FRESH LAKE--THE CANDIUP RIVER--KING'S RIVER--EXCESSIVE +RAINS--ARRIVAL AT KING GEORGE'S SOUND AND TERMINATION OF THE +EXPEDITION--RECEPTION OF WYLIE BY THE NATIVES. + + +June 24.--UPON moving on early this morning, we crossed the bed of a +considerable watercourse, containing large deep pools of brackish water, +but unconnected at present by any stream. The late hour at which we +halted last night had prevented us from noticing this larger chain of +ponds, and of which, that we were encamped upon formed only a branch. The +country we now passed through, varied but little in character, except +that the shrubs became higher, with a good deal of the Eucalyptus dumosa +intermingled with them, and were entangled together by matted creepers or +vines, which made it extremely difficult and fatiguing to force a way +through. The whole was very sterile, and without grass. + +After travelling nine miles, we passed on our right a small lake of fresh +water; and two miles beyond this another, about a mile in circumference, +but deep, and evidently of a permanent character. Close to this fresh +water lake was another, divided from it by only a narrow neck of land, +and yet the latter was as salt as the sea. We had only made a short stage +as yet; but as there was a little food for the horses near the lake, I +thought it more prudent to halt there than run the risk of being left +without in the wretched looking country before us, + +The Mount Barren ranges were observed again, but the weather was cloudy, +so that I could make nothing out distinctly. In the afternoon, Wylie shot +three teal, of which there were numbers on the lake. At night, our +baggage and clothes had nearly all been destroyed by fire, a spark having +been carried by the wind to the tarpaulin which covered them, and which, +as it had been but newly tarred, was soon in a blaze. I was fortunate +enough, however, to observe the accident in time to save our other +effects. + +June 25.--We commenced our journey early, but had not gone far before the +rain began to fall, and continued until ten o'clock. Occasionally the +showers came down in perfect torrents, rendering us very cold and +miserable, and giving the whole country the appearance of a large puddle. +We were literally walking in water; and by stooping down, almost any +where as we went along, could have dipped a pint pot half full. It was +dreadful work to travel thus in the water, and with the wet from the long +brush soaking our clothes for so many hours; but there was no help for +it, as we could not find a blade of grass for our horses, to enable us to +halt sooner. The surface of the whole country was stony and barren in the +extreme. A mile from our camp, we passed a small salt lake on our left; +and at fifteen miles more, came to a valley with some wiry grass in it. +At this I halted, as there was no prospect of getting better grass, and +the water left by the rains was abundant. The latter, though it had only +fallen an hour or two, was in many places quite salt, and the best of it +brackish, so thoroughly saline was the nature of the soil upon which it +had been deposited. + +As the afternoon proved fine, I traced down the valley we were upon to +its junction with a stream flowing over a granite bed, about a mile from +our camp. In this the pools of water were large, deep, and brackish, but +there was plenty of fresh water left by the rains in holes of the rocks +upon its banks. As, however, there did not appear to be better grass upon +the larger channel, than in the valley where we were, I did not think it +worth while to remove our camp. + +June 26.--I determined to remain in camp today to rest the horses, and to +enable me to arrange their loads, so that Wylie and I might again ride +occasionally. We had both walked for the last eleven days, during which +we had made good a distance of 134 miles from Rossiter Bay, and as I +calculated we ought under ordinary circumstances to reach the Sound in +ten days more, I thought that we might occasionally indulge in riding, +and relieve ourselves from the great fatigue we had hitherto been subject +to, especially as the horses were daily improving in strength and +condition. + +Whilst I was engaged in making the necessary preparations, and throwing +away some things which I thought we could dispense with, such as our +bucket, some harness, ammunition, cooking utensils, and sundry other +things, Wylie took the rifle, and went down to the watercourse to shoot. +On his return in the afternoon he produced four teal and a black swan, as +the produce of his day's sport; he had, however, shot away every charge +of shot from the belt, which had been filled on board the Mississippi, +and held three pounds and a half, besides three ball cartridges; how +often he fired at the swan before he got it I could never discover, but I +heard shot after shot as fast as he could load and fire for some time, +and he himself acknowledged to firing at it seven times, but I suspect it +to have been nearer twice seven. + +To-day we were obliged to fetch up what water we required for our own +use, from the holes in the granite rocks near the river, that lying on +the ground near our camp being too salt for use. + +June 27.--Upon moving on this morning we passed towards the Mount Barren +ranges for ten miles through the same sterile country, and then observing +a watercourse coming from the hills, I became apprehensive I should +experience some difficulty in crossing it near the ranges, from their +rocky and precipitous character, and at once turned more southerly to +keep between the sea and a salt lake, into which the stream emptied +itself. After getting nearly half round the lake, our progress was +impeded by a dense and most difficult scrub of the Eucalyptus dumosa. +Upon entering it we found the scrub large and strong, and growing very +close together, whilst the fallen trees, dead wood, and sticks lying +about in every direction, to the height of a man's breast, rendered our +passage difficult and dangerous to the horses in the extreme. Indeed, +when we were in the midst of it, the poor animals suffered so much, and +progressed so little, that I feared we should hardly get them either +through it or back again. By dint of great labour and perseverance we +passed through a mile of it, and then emerging upon the beach followed it +for a short distance, until steep rocky hills coming nearly bluff into +the sea, obliged us to turn up under them, and encamp for the night not +far from the lake. Here our horses procured tolerable grass, whilst we +obtained a little fresh water for ourselves among the hollows of the +rocks. + +Our stage had been about thirteen miles, and our position was S. 30 +degrees E. from East Mount Barren, the hills under which we were encamped +being connected with that range. Most properly had it been called Mount +Barren, for a more wretched aridlooking country never existed than that +around it. The Mount Barren ranges are of quartz or reddish micaceous +slate, the rocks project in sharp rugged masses, and the strata are all +perpendicular. + +June 28.--Upon getting up this morning we saw the smoke of native fires +along the margin of the lake, at less than a mile from us. They had +already noticed our fire, and called out repeatedly to us, but as I did +not wish to come into communication with them at all, I did not reply. +Soon afterwards we saw them in the midst of the lake carrying boughs, and +apparently fishing. Three miles from the lake we crossed a small salt +stream, and a mile further another. Four miles beyond the latter we came +to a very deep narrow salt lake, swarming with swans, pelicans, and +ducks. As the passage between the lake and the sea appeared to be +scrubby, and very similar to that we had found so much difficulty in +passing yesterday, I turned to the north-west to head it inland; but had +not proceeded far before I found our progress stopped by a large +salt-water stream, which joined the lake, and whose course was through +steep precipitous ravines. By following the river upwards I came to a +place where we could descend into its basin, and as the water there, +though brackish, was still drinkable, I halted for the night after a +stage of fourteen miles. The horses were a good deal tired with the rough +hilly road they had passed over, and having been without water last +night, stood greatly in need of rest. + +In the afternoon Wylie took the rifle to shoot some of the swans and +ducks around us, but was not successful. I remained at the camp, breaking +down and clearing a passage amongst the shrubs and trees which grew in +the rocky bed of the watercourse, to enable us to get our horses readily +across to-morrow. Our position bore S. W. from East Mount Barren, E. from +a bluff range three miles from us, and N. 55 degrees E. from some high +hills in the direction of Middle Mount Barren. The course of the stream +we were encamped upon being nearly north and south. + +June 29.--Having found so much difficulty in keeping between the hills +and the sea, I determined now to keep more inland, and steering W. 20 +degrees N., headed all ranges in four miles. From this point East Mount +Barren bore E. 20 degrees N., and as I was now clear of hills in front, I +changed my course to W. 20 degrees S., passing through a barren worthless +country for eleven miles, and encamping upon a deep ravine, in which we +procured brackish water. Our horses were greatly fagged. From our camp +West Mount Barren bore S. 41 degrees W. + +June 30.--For the first ten miles to-day we had a very bad road, over +steep stony ridges and valleys, covered for the most part with dense gum +scrub. The surface was strewed over with rough pebbles or ironstone grit, +and was broken a good deal into steep-faced ridges and deep hollows, as +if formed so by the action of water. The formation of these precipitous +banks appeared to be an ochre of various colours--red and yellow, and of +a soft friable description. At ten miles we crossed a watercourse with +many pools of brackish water in it, trending to a lake visible under the +coast ridge. There was good grass near this, and many kangaroos were +seen, but as no fresh water could be obtained, we passed on, and at three +miles further came to a hole of rain-water in a rocky gorge, but here +there was not a blade of grass. Hoping to meet with more success further +on, we still advanced for twelve miles, until night compelled us at last +to encamp without either grass or water, both ourselves and our horses +being greatly fatigued. + +In the evening we obtained a view of some high rugged and distant ranges, +which I at once recognised as being the mountains immediately behind King +George's Sound. At last we could almost say we were in sight of the +termination of our long, harassing, and disastrous journey. Early in the +morning I had told Wylie that I thought we should see the King George's +Sound hills before night, but he at the time appeared rather sceptical; +when, however, they did break upon our view, in picturesque though +distant outline, his joy knew no bounds. For the first time on our +journey he believed we should really reach the Sound at last. The +cheering and not-to-be-mistaken view before him had dissipated all his +doubts. Once more he gazed upon objects that were familiar to him; the +home of his childhood was before him, and already almost in fancy he was +there, and amongst his friends; he could think, or talk of nothing else, +and actually complimented me upon the successful way in which I had +conducted him to the end of his journey. From our camp the distant ranges +bore W. 5 degrees S., and West Mount Barren E. 5 degrees S. + +July 1.--After travelling three miles we came to a chain of large ponds +of brackish water, but with excellent grass around them, and as the +horses had nothing to eat or drink last night we halted for three hours. +The water was bad, but they drank it, and we were obliged to do so too, +after an ineffectual search for better. At noon we again moved on, and +after proceeding about five miles, came to a large watercourse where the +water was excellent, and the feed abundant. Here we halted for the night, +to make our horses amends for the bad fare and hard work of yesterday. +From the hill above our camp West Mount Barren bore E. 8 degrees N., +Middle Mount Barren E. 21 degrees N., and Rugged Mountains behind the +Sound, W. 4 degrees S. The watercourse we were upon, like all those we +had lately crossed, had perpendicular cliffs abutting upon it, either on +one side or the other, and the channel through which it wound looked +almost like a cut made through the level country above it. A few +casuarinae were observed in parts of the valley, being the first met with +since those seen near Cape Arid. + +July 2.--Our route to-day lay through a country much covered with +gum-scrub, banksias, and other shrubs, besides occasionally a few patches +of stunted gum-trees growing in clumps in small hollows, where water +appeared to lodge after rains. At two miles we crossed a small +watercourse, and at fifteen further, came to a deep valley with fine +fresh-water pools in it, and tolerable feed around; here we halted for +the night. The valley we were upon (and one or two others near) led to a +much larger one below, through which appeared to take its course the +channel of a considerable watercourse trending towards a bight in the +coast at S. 17 degrees W. + +Some high land, seen to the southward and westward of us, I took to be +Cape Riche, a point I should like greatly to have visited, but did not +think it prudent to go so far out of my direct course, in the +circumstances I was travelling under. + +July 3.--Upon commencing our journey to-day I found our route was much +intersected by deep ravines and gorges, all trending to the larger valley +below, and where I had no doubt a large chain of ponds, and probably much +good land, would have been found. After proceeding four miles and a half, +we were stopped by a large salt-water river, which seemed to be very deep +below where we struck it, and trended towards a bight of the coast where +it appeared to form a junction with the sea. + +Many oyster and cockle shells were on its shore. This was the largest +river we had yet come to, and it gave us much trouble to cross it, for, +wherever it appeared fordable, the bed was so soft and muddy, that we +dared not venture to take our horses into it. By tracing it upwards for +eight miles, we at last found a rocky shelf extending across, by which we +were enabled to get to the other side. At the point where we crossed, it +had become only a narrow rocky channel; but there was a strong stream +running, and I have no doubt, higher up, the water might probably have +been quite fresh. Its waters flowed from a direction nearly of +west-north-west, and appeared to emanate from the high rugged ranges +behind King George's Sound. The country about the lower or broad part of +this river, as far as I traced it, was rocky and bad; but higher up, +there was a good deal of grass, and the land appeared improving. In the +distance, the hills seemed less rocky and more grassy, and might probably +afford fair runs for sheep. Upon the banks of the river were a few +casuarinae and more of the tea-tree, and bastard gum, than we had seen +before upon any other watercourse. + +Upon crossing the river, we found the country getting more wooded, with a +stunted-looking tree, apparently of the same species as the stringy bark, +with bastard gums, and large banksias, the intervals being filled up with +grass-trees and brush, or shrubs, common at King George's Sound. At dark +we could find no water, and I therefore pushed on by moonlight, making +Wylie lead one of the horses whilst I drove the rest after him. At nine +o'clock, we came to a deep valley with plenty of water and grass in it, +and here we halted for the night, after a stage of full thirty miles. The +early part of the morning had been very wet, and it continued to rain +partially for the greatest part of the day, rendering us very cold and +uncomfortable. At night it was a severe frost. + +July 4.--Our horses having been a good deal fagged yesterday, I did not +disturb them early, and it was nearly noon when we moved away from our +encampment, crossing the main watercourse, of which the ponds we were +upon last night were only a branch. In the larger channel, there were +many fine pools of water, connected by a strongly running stream in a +deep narrow bed, and which wound at a course of E. 25 degrees S. through +a valley of soft, spongy, peaty formation, and over which we had much +trouble in getting our horses, one having sunk very deep, and being with +difficulty extricated. After travelling two miles and a half, we obtained +a view of Bald Island, bearing S. 15 degrees W.; and in two miles and a +half more, we crossed a fine chain of ponds, taking its course through +narrow valleys between hills of granite; these valleys and the slopes of +the hills were heavily timbered; the soil was very rich, either a reddish +loam, or a light black mixed with sand, and the grass interspersed among +the trees was abundant and luxuriant. After ascending the range, we +passed principally over stony hills, and valleys heavily timbered, and +with brush or underwood, filling up the interstices of the trees. + +Ten miles from our last night's camp we crossed the tracks of horses, +apparently of no very old date, this being the first symptom we had yet +observed of our approach towards the haunts of civilised man. The day was +cold with heavy squalls of rain, and as the night appeared likely to be +worse, I halted early, after a stage of thirteen miles. After dark the +rain ceased, and the night cleared up, but was very cold. + +July 5.--Another rainy day, and so excessively cold that we were obliged +to walk to keep ourselves at all warm; we spent a miserable time, +splashing through the wet underwood, and at fifteen miles we passed a +fresh water lake, in a valley between some hills. This Wylie recognised +as a place he had once been at before, and told me that he now knew the +road well, and would act as guide, upon which I resigned the post of +honour to him, on his promising always to take us to grass and water at +night. Two miles and a half beyond the lake, we came to a fresh water +swamp, and a mile beyond that to another, at which we halted for the +night, with plenty of water, but very little grass. During the day, we +had been travelling generally through a very heavily timbered country. + +At night the rain set in again, and continued to fall in torrents at +intervals; we got dreadfully drenched, and suffered greatly from cold and +want of rest, being obliged to stand or walk before the fire, nearly the +whole night. + +July 6.--The morning still very wet and miserably cold. With Wylie acting +as guide, we reached in eight miles, the Candiup river, a large chain of +ponds, connected by a running stream, and emptying into a wide and deep +arm of the sea, with much rich and fertile land upon its banks. The whole +district was heavily timbered, and had good grass growing amongst the +trees. From the very heavy rains that had fallen, we had great trouble in +crossing many of the streams, which were swollen by the floods into +perfect torrents. In the Candiup river I had to wade, cold and chill as I +was, seven times through, with the water breast high, and a current that +I with difficulty could keep my feet against, in order to get the horses +over in safety; the only fordable place was at a narrow ledge of rocks, +and with so strong a stream, and such deep water below the ledge, I dared +not trust Wylie to lead any of them, but went back, and took each horse +across myself. The day was bitterly cold and rainy, and I began to suffer +severely from the incessant wettings I had been subject to for many days +past. + +Four miles beyond the Candiup river, we came to King's river, a large +salt arm of Oyster Harbour, here my friend Wylie, who insisted upon it +that he knew the proper crossing place, took me into a large swampy +morass, and in endeavouring to take the horses through, three of them got +bogged and were nearly lost, and both myself and Wylie were detained in +the water and mud for a couple of hours, endeavouring to extricate them. +At last we succeeded, but the poor animals were sadly weakened and +strained, and we were compelled to return back to the same side of the +river, and encamp for the night, instead of going on to King George's +Sound as I had intended! + +Fortunately there was tolerable grass, and fresh water lay every where +about in great abundance, so that the horses would fare well, but for +ourselves there was a cheerless prospect. For three days and nights, we +had never had our clothes dry, and for the greater part of this time, we +had been enduring in full violence the pitiless storm--whilst wading so +constantly through the cold torrents in the depth of the winter season, +and latterly being detained in the water so long a time at the King's +river, had rendered us rheumatic, and painfully sensitive to either cold +or wet. I hoped to have reached Albany this evening, and should have done +so, as it was only six miles distant, if it had not been for the unlucky +attempt to cross King's river. Now we had another night's misery before +us, for we had hardly lain down before the rain began to fall again in +torrents. Wearied and worn-out as we were, with the sufferings and +fatigues of the last few days, we could neither sit nor lie down to rest; +our only consolation under the circumstances being, that however bad or +inclement the weather might be, it was the last night we should be +exposed to its fury. + +July 7.--Getting up the horses early, we proceeded up the King's river, +with a view of attempting to cross, but upon sounding the depths in one +or two places, I found the tide, which was rising, was too high; I had +only the alternative, therefore, of waiting for several hours until the +water ebbed, or else of leaving the horses, and proceeding on without +them. Under all the circumstances, I decided upon the latter; the rain +was still falling very heavily, and the river before us was so wide and +so dangerous for horses, from its very boggy character, that I did not +think it prudent to attempt to force a passage, or worth while to delay +to search for a proper crossing place. There was good feed for the horses +where they were, and plenty of water, so that I knew they would fare +better by remaining than if they were taken on to the Sound; whilst it +appeared to me more than probable that I should have no difficulty, +whenever I wished to get them, to procure a guide to go for and conduct +them safely across, at the proper crossing place. + +Having turned our horses loose, and piled up our baggage, now again +greatly reduced, I took my journals and charts, and with Wylie forded the +river about breast high. We were soon on the other side, and rapidly +advancing towards the termination of our journey; the rain was falling in +torrents, and we had not a dry shred about us, whilst the whole country +through which we passed, had, from the long-continued and excessive +rains, become almost an uninterrupted chain of puddles. For a great part +of the way we walked up to our ankles in water. This made our progress +slow, and rendered our last day's march a very cold and disagreeable one. +Before reaching the Sound, we met a native, who at once recognised Wylie, +and greeted him most cordially. From him we learnt that we had been +expected at the Sound some months ago, but had long been given up for +lost, whilst Wylie had been mourned for and lamented as dead by his +friends and his tribe. The rain still continued falling heavily as we +ascended to the brow of the hill immediately overlooking the town of +Albany--not a soul was to be seen--not an animal of any kind--the place +looked deserted and uninhabited, so completely had the inclemency of the +weather driven both man and beast to seek shelter from the storm. + +For a moment I stood gazing at the town below me--that goal I had so long +looked forward to, had so laboriously toiled to attain, was at last +before me. A thousand confused images and reflections crowded through my +mind, and the events of the past year were recalled in rapid succession. +The contrast between the circumstances under which I had commenced and +terminated my labours stood in strong relief before me. The gay and +gallant cavalcade that accompanied me on my way at starting--the small +but enterprising band that I then commanded, the goodly array of horses +and drays, with all their well-ordered appointments and equipment were +conjured up in all their circumstances of pride and pleasure; and I could +not restrain a tear, as I called to mind the embarrassing difficulties +and sad disasters that had broken up my party, and left myself and Wylie +the two sole wanderers remaining at the close of an undertaking entered +upon under such hopeful auspices. + +Whilst standing thus upon the brow overlooking the town, and buried in +reflection, I was startled by the loud shrill cry of the native we had +met on the road, and who still kept with us: clearly and powerfully that +voice rang through the recesses of the settlement beneath, whilst the +blended name of Wylie told me of the information it conveyed. For an +instant there was a silence still almost as death--then a single +repetition of that wild joyous cry, a confused hum of many voices, a +hurrying to and fro of human feet, and the streets which had appeared so +shortly before gloomy and untenanted, were now alive with natives--men, +women and children, old and young, rushing rapidly up the hill, to +welcome the wanderer on his return, and to receive their lost one almost +from the grave. + +It was an interesting and touching sight to witness the meeting between +Wylie and his friends. Affection's strongest ties could not have produced +a more affecting and melting scene--the wordless weeping pleasure, too +deep for utterance, with which he was embraced by his relatives, the +cordial and hearty reception given him by his friends, and the joyous +greeting bestowed upon him by all, might well have put to the blush those +heartless calumniators, who, branding the savage as the creature only of +unbridled passions, deny to him any of those better feelings and +affections which are implanted in the breast of all mankind, and which +nature has not denied to any colour or to any race. + +Upon entering the town I proceeded direct to Mr. Sherrats', where I had +lodged when in King George's Sound, in 1840. By him and his family I was +most hospitably received, and every attention shewn to me; and in the +course of a short time, after taking a glass of hot brandy and water, +performing my ablutions and putting on a clean suit of borrowed clothes, +I was enabled once more to feel comparatively comfortable, and to receive +the many kind friends who called upon me. + +I feel great pleasure in the opportunity now afforded me of recording the +grateful feelings I entertain towards the residents at Albany for the +kindness I experienced upon this occasion. Wet as the day was, I had +hardly been two hours at Mr. Sherrats before I was honoured by a visit +from Lady Spencer, from the Government-resident, Mr. Phillips, and from +almost all the other residents and visitors at the settlement,--all vying +with each other in their kind attentions and congratulations, and in +every offer of assistance or accommodation which it was in their power to +render. + +Finding that a vessel would shortly sail for Adelaide, I at once engaged +my passage, and proceeded to make arrangements for leaving King George's +Sound. + +To the Governor of the Colony, Mr. Hutt, I wrote a brief report of my +journey, which was forwarded, with a copy both of my own and Wylie's +depositions, relative to the melancholy loss of my overseer on the 29th +April. I then had my horses got up from the King's river, and left them +in the care of Mr. Phillips, who had in the most friendly manner offered +to take charge of them until they recovered their condition and could be +sold. + +Wylie was to remain at the Sound with his friends, and to receive from +the Government a weekly allowance of provisions, [Note 29: This was +confirmed by Governor Hutt.] by order of Mr. Phillips; who promised to +recommend that it should be permanently continued, as a reward for the +fidelity and good conduct he had displayed whilst accompanying me in +the desert. + +On the 13th July I wished my friends good bye, and in the afternoon went +on board the Truelove to sail for Adelaide; whilst working out of harbour +we were accompanied as long as any of the shore boats remained, by some +of the natives of the place, who were most anxious to have gone with me +to Adelaide. Wylie had given them so flattering an account of South +Australia and its pleasures, that he had excited the envy and curiosity +of the whole tribe; dozens applied to me to take them, and I really think +I could have filled the ship had I been disposed; one or two, more +persevering than the rest, would not be denied, and stuck close to the +vessel to the last, in the hope that I might relent and take them with me +before the pilot boat left, but upon this occurring, to their great +discomforture, they were compelled to return disappointed. + +On the afternoon of the 26th of July I arrived in Adelaide, after an +absence of one year and twenty-six days. + + + + +Chapter VI. + + + +CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +Having now brought to a close the narrative of my explorations in 1840-1, +it may not be out of place to take a brief and cursory review of the +whole, and to state generally what have been the results effected. In +making this summary, I have no important rivers to enumerate, no fertile +regions to point out for the future spread of colonization and +civilization, or no noble ranges to describe from which are washed the +debris that might form a rich and fertile district beneath them; on the +contrary, all has been arid and barren in the extreme. + +Such, indeed, has been the sterile and desolate character of the +wilderness I have traversed, and so great have been the difficulties +thereby entailed upon me, that throughout by far the greater portion of +it, I have never been able to delay a moment in my route, or to deviate +in any way from the line I was pursuing, to reconnoitre or examine what +may haply be beyond. Even in the latter part of my travels, when within +the colony of Western Australia, and when the occasionally meeting with +tracts of a better soil, or with watercourses appearing to have an outlet +to the ocean, rendered the country one of much greater interest, I was +quite unable, from the circumstances under which I was placed, the +reduced and worn-out state of my horses, and the solitary manner in which +I was travelling, ever to deviate from my direct line of route, either to +examine more satisfactorily the character of the country, or to determine +whether the watercourses, some of which occasionally bore the character +of rivers (though of only short course), had embouchures opening to the +sea or not. + +In a geographical point of view, I would hope the result of my labours +has not been either uninteresting, or incommensurate with the nature of +the expedition placed under my command, and the character of the country +I had to explore. By including in the summary I am now making, the +journeys I undertook in 1839, as well as those of 1840-1 (for a +considerable portion of the country then examined was recrossed by the +Northern Expedition), it will be seen that I have discovered and examined +a tract of country to the north of Adelaide, which was previously +unknown, of about 270 miles in length, extending between the parallels of +33 degrees 40 minutes and 29 degrees S. latitude. In longitude, that part +of my route which was before unknown, extends between the parallels of +138 degrees E., and 118 degrees 40 minutes E., or about 1060 miles of +direct distance. These being connected with the previously known portions +of South-western, South-eastern, and part of Southern Australia, complete +the examination of the whole of the south line of the coast of this +continent. Indeed, I have myself (at various times) crossed over the +whole of this distance from east to west, from Sydney to Swan River. In +the early part of the Expedition, 1840, the continuation of Flinders +range, from Mount Arden, was traced and laid down to its termination, +near the parallel of 29 degrees S. It was ascertained to be hemmed in by +an impassable barrier, consisting of the basin of an immense lake, which +I named Lake Torrens, and which, commencing from the head of Spencer's +Gulf, increased in width as it swept to the north-west, but subsequently +bent round again to the north-east, east and south-east, in +correspondence with the trend of Flinders range, the northern extremity +of which it completely surrounded in the form of a horse-shoe. The shores +of this lake I visited to the westward of Flinders range, at three +different points, from eighty to ninety miles apart from each other, and +on all these occasions I found the basin to consist, as far as I could +penetrate, of a mass of mud and sand, coated on the surface with a crust +of salt, but having water mixed with it beneath. At the most +north-westerly point attained by me, water was found in an arm of the +main lake, about two feet deep, clear, and salt as the sea; it did not +extend, however, more than two or three hundred yards, nor did it +continue to the bed of the main lake, which appeared, from a rise that I +ascended near the arm, to be of the same character and consistency as +before. The whole course of the lake, to the farthest point visited by +me, was bounded by a steep, continuous, sandy ridge, exactly like a +sea-shore ridge; those parts of its course to the north, and to the east +of Flinders range, which I did not go down to, were seen and laid down +from various heights in that mountain chain. Altogether, the outline of +this extraordinary feature, as thus observed and traced, could not have +extended over a circuit of less than 400 miles. + +It is singular enough that all the springs found near the termination of +Flinders range should have been salt, and that these were very nearly in +the same latitude in which Captain Sturt had found brine springs in the +bed of the Darling in 1829, although our two positions were so far +separated in longitude. My furthest position to the north-west was also +in about the same latitude, as the most inland point gained by any +previous exploring party, viz. that of Sir Thomas Mitchell's in 1832, +about the parallel of 149 degrees E. longitude; but by my being about 600 +miles more to the westward, I was consequently much nearer to the centre +of New Holland. It is, to say the least, remarkable that from both our +positions, so far apart as they are, the country should present the same +low and sterile aspect to the west and north-west. Since my return from +the expedition, a party has been sent out under Captain Frome, the +Surveyor-General, in South Australia, to examine the south-east extremity +of Lake Torrens; the following is the report made by that officer upon +his return. + + +"The most northern point at which I found water last year, was near the +top of a deep ravine of the Black Rock Hills, in lat. 32 degrees 45 +minutes 25 seconds, where I left the dray and the larger portion of my +party on the 20th July, taking on only a light spring cart, the bottom +filled entirely with kegs containing sufficient water for our horses for +nearly three days, and provisions for one month, which was as much as the +cart would contain. + +"My object being to ascertain the boundaries of the southern termination +of the eastern branch of Lake Torrens, as laid down by Mr. Eyre, and also +the nature of the country between Flinders range, as high as the parallel +of Mount Hopeless, and the meridian of 141 degrees, (the eastern limits +of the province), I kept at first a course as near N.N.E. as the nature +of the ground would admit, to ensure my not passing to the east of this +extremity of the lake; from whence I intended, if possible, to pursue a +line nearly north-east, as far as my time and the means at my disposal +would allow me, hoping to reach the high land laid down by Sir Thomas +Mitchell, on the right banks of the Darling, to the north of Mount Lyell, +and thus ascertain if any reasonable hope existed of penetrating at some +future time towards the interior from thence. The continued heavy rains +which had fallen for more than three weeks before my departure from +Adelaide, on the 8th July, and for nearly a fortnight afterwards, had +left the surface water in pools on the scrubby plains, and in some of the +ravines; but on proceeding north, it was evident that these rains had not +been there so general or so heavy, though by steering from point to point +of the hills, after crossing the Black Rock Range at Rowe's Creek, I was +able to find sufficient water for the horses, and to replenish the kegs +every second or third day. From this spot, the plains, as well as the +higher land, appeared evidently to dip away to the north-east, the barren +hills all diminishing in elevation, and the deep watercourses from +Flinders range all crossing the plains in that direction. In one of these +watercourses, the Siccus (lat. about 31 degrees 55 minutes), whose +section nearly equals that of the Murray, there were indications of not +very remote floods having risen to between twenty and thirty feet above +its bed, plainly marked by large gum-trees lodged in the forks of the +standing trees, and lying high up on its banks, on one of which I +remarked dead leaves still on the branches; and in another creek (Pasmore +River), lat. 31 degrees 29 minutes, a strong current was running at the +spot where we struck it (owing, I suppose, to recent heavy rains among +the hills from whence it has its source), but below this point the bed +was like that of all the other creeks, as dry as if no rain had ever +fallen, and with occasional patches of various shrubs, and salt water +tea-tree growing in it. After crossing the low ridge above Prewitt's +Springs, lat. 31 degrees 45 minutes, forming the left bank of the basin +of the Siccus, the plain extended between the north and east as far as +the eye could reach, and the lurid glare of the horizon, as we advanced +northward, plainly indicated the approach of Lake Torrens, which, from +the direction I had followed, I expected to turn about this point. I was +obliged, however, to continue a northerly course for the sake of water, +which I could only hope to find in the ravines of the hills on our left, +as high as the parallel of 30 degrees 59 minutes, where the lake was +visible within fifteen or sixteen miles, and appeared from the high land +to be covered with water, studded with islands, and backed on the east by +a bold rocky shore. These appearances were, however, all deceptive, being +caused solely by the extraordinary refraction, as on riding to the spot +the following day, not a drop of water was to be seen in any direction. +The islands turned out to be mere low sandy ridges, very scantily clothed +with stunted scrub on their summits, and no distant land appeared any +where between the north and south-east, though from the hills above our +camp of the previous night, I could discern, with the aid of a very +powerful telescope, a ridge of low land, either on the eastern side of +the lake, or rising out of it, distant at least seventy miles, rendered +visible at that distance by the excessive refractive power of the +atmosphere on the horizon. A salt crust was seen at intervals on the +surface of the sand at the margin of the lake, or as it might more +properly be called, the Desert; but this appearance might either be +caused by water brought down by the Siccus, and other large watercourses +spreading over the saline soil in times of flood, or by rain, and +appeared to me no proof of its ever being covered with water for any +period of time. A few pieces of what appeared drift timber were also +lying about its surface. The sand, as we advanced farther east, became +more loose and drifting, and not a blade of grass, or any species of +vegetation, was visible, rendering hopeless any attempt to cross it with +horses. This point of the lake shore, being by Mr. Eyre's chart about +thirty miles to the westward of where I found it, I thought it advisable +to push further north, in the direction of the highest point of the +range, which I imagined was probably his Mount Serle; for though it was +not to be expected that Mr. Eyre, whose principal and almost sole object +was to discover a road to the interior, would, at the same time, have +been able to lay down the position of his route with the same accuracy +that might have been expected from a surveyor; this difference of +longitude prevented my being certain of the identity of the spot, or that +the range on our left, might not after all, be another long promontory +running to the north, similar to that on the western side of which was +Mr. Eyre's course. The appearance of the country, however, from the hills +close under Mount Serle (for the perpendicular cliffs on the east side of +this range of hills prevented my ascending to their summit without +turning them among the ranges, for which I had not time), convinced me at +once, from its perfect accordance with the description given by Mr. Eyre, +that his eastern arm of Lake Torrens was the sandy desert I had left, its +surface being about three hundred feet above the level of the sea; and +our two converging lines having thus met at Mount Serle, I knew it was +useless to advance further in the same direction to a spot which he had +named, from the impossibility of proceeding beyond it, "Mount Hopeless." + +"I was thus forced to return to Pasmore River, as the nearest point from +whence I could cross to the low hills to the eastward, south of Lake +Torrens; and from thence I sent back to the depot two men of the party, +and three horses--the former for the sake of their rations, and the +latter on account of the probable difficulty I should have in procuring +water--taking on with me only Mr. Henderson and Mr. Hawker on foot, with +the light cart and one policeman. The second evening I made the most +northern of these hills, but could not find a drop of water in any of +them; and having unluckily lost the policeman, who had crossed in front +of the dray and got entangled in the dense scrub, I was detained three +days riding upon his tracks, until I had traced them to our dray tracks +from the depot at the Black Rock Hill, which he reached in safety, after +being out five days without food. The cart, in the mean time, had been +obliged to leave the spot where I left it, for want of water--having been +out six days without obtaining any but what we carried in the kegs; and +when I overtook it, we had not sufficient provisions for another attempt, +the period of one month, for which they were intended to last, having +already nearly expired. + +"I very much regret not having been able to reach, at all events, within +sight of Mount Lyell; but where I turned I could plainly see the whole +country within fifty or sixty miles of the boundaries of the province, +and can speak with almost as much confidence of its absolute sterility as +if I had actually ridden over it. It would certainly be possible in the +wet season to take a small party from Prewitt's Springs across to this +hill of Sir Thomas Mitchell (distant about one hundred and sixty miles), +by carrying on water for eight or ten days; but no further supply might +be found short of the Darling (eighty miles beyond Mount Lyell), on which +river it would be madness to attempt anything without a considerable +force, on account of the natives; and the same point might be reached in +nearly as short a time, and with much more certainty, with any number of +men that might be considered necessary, by ascending the Murray as high +as the Laidley Ponds, and proceeding north from thence. + +"On returning to the depot, I moved the party down to Mount Bryan, and +made another attempt on the 25th August, with Mr. Henderson, and one man +leading a pack-horse, to the north-east, hoping, from the heavy rains +which had fallen during the past two months, to find sufficient water in +the ravines to enable me to push on for several days. The second day, I +crossed the high range I had observed from the Black Rock Hills and Mount +Bryan, for the southern termination of which Colonel Gawler steered when +he left the northern bend of the Murray in December, 1839; but though +these hills had an elevation of twelve hundred or fourteen hundred feet +above the plain, there was no indication of rain having fallen there +since the deluge. This want of water prevented my proceeding further to +the north-east; but from the summit of the highest of these hills (Mount +Porcupine,) I had a clear view of the horizon in every direction, and a +more barren, sterile country, cannot be imagined. + +"The direction of the dividing ridge between the basin of the Murray and +the interior desert plain was generally about north-east from the Black +Rock Hills (the highest point north of Mount Bryan,) gradually decreasing +in elevation, and, if possible, increasing in barrenness. The summits of +those hills I found invariably rock--generally sandstone--the lower +slopes covered with dense brush, and the valleys with low scrub, with +occasional small patches of thin wiry grass. I was obliged to return on +the third day, and reached the foot of Mount Bryan on the fourth evening, +at the southern extremity of which hill the horses were nearly bogged in +the soft ground, though only fifty miles distant from land where the dust +was flying as if in the midst of summer. + +"It appears to me certain, from the result of these different attempts, +that there is no country eastward of the high land extending north from +Mount Bryan, as far as Mount Hopeless, a distance of about three hundred +miles, as far as the meridian of 141 degrees (and probably much beyond +it), available for either agricultural or pastoral purposes; and that, +though there may be occasional spots of good land at the base of the main +range on the sources of the numerous creeks flowing from thence towards +the inland desert, these must be too limited in extent to be of any +present value. + +"The nature of the formation of the main range I found generally +iron-stone, conglomerate and quartz, with sandstone and slate at the +lower elevation. At the points of highest elevation from Mount Bryan +northward, igneous rocks of basaltic character protruded from below, +forming rugged and fantastic outlines. + +"At one spot, particularly, about 30 degrees, there were marked +indications of volcanic action, and several hollows resembling small +craters of extinct volcanoes, near one of which we found a small spring +of water, maintaining always a temperature of about 76 degrees Farenheit, +when the thermometer standing in water in the kegs stood at 52 degrees, +and in the atmosphere at 54 degrees. + +"The accompanying sketch of the country from Mount Bryan northwards, will +probably explain its character better than any written description. The +altitudes marked at the different spots where they were observed, were +obtained by the temperature of boiling water, as observed by two +thermometers; but as they were not graduated with sufficient minuteness +for such purposes, the results can only be considered approximate." + +E. C. FROME, +Capt. Royal Engineers, +Surveyor-General. +September 14th, 1843. + + +In the above report it will be observed, that there are some apparent +discrepancies between my account and Captain Frome's. First, with respect +to the position of the south-east extremity of Lake Torrens. Captain +Frome states that he found that point thirty miles more to the east than +I had placed it in my chart. Now the only sketch of my course under +Flinders range, and that a rough one, which I furnished to the Colonial +Government, was sent from Port Lincoln, and is the same which was +subsequently published with other papers, relative to South Australia, +for the House of Commons, in 1843. This sketch was put together hastily +for his Excellency the Governor, that I might not lose the opportunity of +forwarding it when I sent from Port Lincoln to Adelaide for supplies +early in October, 1840. It was constructed entirely, after I found myself +compelled to return from the northern interior, and could only be +attended to, in a hurried and imperfect manner, during the brief +intervals I could snatch from other duties, whilst travelling back from +the north to Port Lincoln (nearly 400 miles,) during which time my +movements were very rapid, and many arrangements, consequent upon +dividing my party at Baxter's range, had to be attended to; added to this +were the difficulties and embarrassments of conducting myself one +division of the party to Port Lincoln, through 200 miles of a desert +country which had never been explored before, and which, from its arid +and sterile character, presented impediments of no ordinary kind. + +Upon my return to Adelaide in 1841, after the Expedition had terminated, +other duties engrossed my time, and it was only after the publication of +Captain Frome's report, that my attention was again called to the +subject. Upon comparing my notes and bearings with the original sketch I +had made, I found that in the hurry and confusion of preparing it, whilst +travelling, I had laid down all the bearings and courses magnetic, +without allowing for the variation; nor can this error, perhaps, be +wondered at, considering the circumstances under which the sketch was +constructed. + +At Mount Hopeless the variation was 4 degrees E., at Mount Arden it was 7 +degrees 24 minutes E. Now if this variation be applied proportionably to +all the courses and bearings as marked down in the original chart, +commencing from Mount Arden, it will be found that Mount Serle will be +brought by my map very nearly in longitude to where Captain Frome places +it. [Note 30 at end of para.] Our latitudes appear to agree exactly. +The second point upon which some difference appears to exist +between Captain Frome's report and mine is the character of Lake Torrens +itself, which Captain Frome thought might more properly be called +a desert. This, it will be observed, is with reference to its south-east +extremity--a point I never visited, and which I only saw once from +Mount Serle; a point, too, which from the view I then had of it, +distant although it was, even at that time seemed to me to be +"apparently dry," and is marked as such in Arrowsmith's chart, +published from the sketch alluded to. + +[Note 30: This has been done by Arrowsmith in the map which accompanies +these volumes;--to which Mr. Arrowsmith has also added Captain Frome's +route from the original tracings.] + +There is, however, a still greater, and more singular difference alluded +to in Captain Frome's report, which it is necessary to remark; I mean +that of the elevation of the country. On the west side of Flinders range, +for 200 miles that I traced the course of Lake Torrens, it was, as I have +observed, girded in its whole course by a steep ridge, like a sea-shore, +from which you descended into a basin, certainly not above the level of +the sea, possibly even below it (I had no instruments with me to enable +me to ascertain this,) the whole bed consisted of mud and water, and I +found it impossible to advance far into it from its boggy nature. On the +east side of Flinders range, Captain Frome found the lake a desert, 300 +feet above the level of the sea, [Note 31: By altitude deduced from the +temperature of boiling water.] and consisting of "loose and drifting +sand," and "low sandy ridges, very scantily clothed with stunted scrub on +their summits." Now, by referring to Captain Frome's chart and report, it +appears that the place thus described was nearly thirty miles south of +Mount Serle, and consequently twenty miles south of that part of the bed +of Lake Torrens which I had seen from that hill. It is further evident, +that Captain Frome had not reached the basin of Lake Torrens, and I +cannot help thinking, that if he had gone further to the north-east, he +would have come to nearly the same level that I had been at on the +western side of the hills. There are several reasons for arriving at this +conclusion. First, the manner in which the drainage is thrown off from +the east side of Flinders range, and the direction which the watercourses +take to the north-east or north; secondly, because an apparent connection +was traceable in the course of the lake, from the heights in Flinders +range, nearly all the way round it; thirdly, because the loose sands and +low sandy ridges crowned with scrub, described by Captain Frome, were +very similar to what I met with near Lake Torrens in the west side, +before I reached its basin. + +After the Northern Expedition had been compelled to return south, (being +unable to cross Lake Torrens,) the peninsula of Port Lincoln was +examined, and traversed completely round, in all the three sides of the +triangle formed by its east and west coasts, and a line from Mount Arden +to Streaky Bay. A road overland from Mount Arden was forced through the +scrub for a dray; but the country travelled through was of so +inhospitable a character as to hold out no prospect of its being +generally available for overland communication. One unfortunate +individual has since made an attempt to take over a few head of cattle by +this route, but was unable to accomplish it, and miserably perished with +his whole party from want of water. [Note 32: Vide note to page 154, +Vol. I. (Note 11)] + +On the northern side of the triangle I have alluded to, or on the line +between Mount Arden and Streaky Bay, a singularly high and barren range, +named the Gawler Range after His Excellency the Governor, was found +consisting of porphoritic granite, extending nearly all the way across, +and then stretching out to the north-west in lofty rugged outline as far +as the eye could reach; the most remarkable fact connected with this +range, was the arid and sterile character of the country in which it was +situated, as well as of the range itself, which consisted entirely of +rugged barren rocks, without timber or vegetation. There was not a stream +or a watercourse of any kind emanating from it; we could find neither +spring nor permanent fresh water, and the only supply we procured for +ourselves was from the deposits left by very recent rains, and which in a +few days more, would have been quite dried up. The soil was in many +places saline, and wherever water had lodged in any quantity (as in lakes +of which there were several) it was quite salt. + +[Note 33: A small exploring party, under a Mr. Darke, was sent from Port +Lincoln in August, 1844, but after getting as far as the Gawler Range were +compelled by the inhospitable nature of the country to return. The +unfortunate leader was murdered by the natives on his route homewards.] + +Continuing the line of coast to the westward, the expedition passed +through the most wretched and desolate country imaginable, consisting +almost entirely of a table-land, or of undulating ridges, covered for the +most part with dense scrubs, and almost wholly without either grass or +water. The general elevation of this country was from three to five +hundred feet, and all of the tertiary deposit, with primary rocks +protruding at intervals. + +The first permanent fresh water met with on the surface was a small +fresh-water lake, beyond the parallel of 123 degrees E.; but from Mount +Arden to that point, a distance of fully 800 miles in a direct line, none +whatever was found on the surface (if I except a solitary small spring +sunk in the rock at Streaky Bay). During the whole of this vast distance, +not a watercourse, not a hollow of any kind was crossed; the only water +to be obtained was by digging close to the sea-shore, or the sand-hills +of the coast, and even by that means it frequently could not be procured +for distances of 150 to 160 miles together. With the exception of the +Gawler Range, which lies between Streaky Bay and Mount Arden, this dreary +waste was one almost uniform table-land of fossil formation, with an +elevation of from three to five hundred feet, covered for the most part +by dense impenetrable scrubs, and varied only on its surface by +occasional sandy or rocky undulations. + +What then can be the nature of that mysterious interior, bounded as it is +by a table-land without river or lakes, without watercourses or drainage +of any kind, for so vast a distance? Can it be that the whole is one +immense interminable desert, or an alternation of deserts and shallow +salt lakes like Lake Torrens? Conjecture is set at defiance by the +impenetrable arrangements of nature; where, the more we pry into her +secrets, the more bewildered and uncertain become all our speculations. + +It has been a common and a popular theory to imagine the existence of an +inland sea, and this theory has been strengthened and confirmed by the +opinion of so talented, so experienced, and so enterprising a traveller +as my friend Captain Sturt, in its favour. That gentleman, with the noble +and disinterested enthusiasm by which he has ever been characterised, has +once more sacrificed the pleasure and quiet of domestic happiness, at the +shrine of enterprise and science. With the ardour of youth, and the +perseverance and judgment of riper years, he is even now traversing the +trackless wilds, and seeking to lift up that veil which has hitherto hung +over their recesses. May he be successful to the utmost of his wishes, +and may he again rejoin in health and safety his many friends, to forget +in their approbation and admiration the toils he has encountered, and to +enjoy the rewards and laurels which will have been so hardly earned, and +so well deserved. + +It was in August, 1844, that Captain Sturt set out upon his arduous +undertaking, with a numerous and well equipped party, and having +provisions calculated to last them for eighteen months. I had the +pleasure of accompanying the expedition as far as the Rufus (about 240 +miles from Adelaide), to render what assistance I could, in passing up, +on friendly terms among the more distant natives of the Murray. Since my +return, Captain Sturt has been twice communicated with, and twice heard +from, up to the time I left the Colony, on the 21st December, 1844. The +last official communication addressed to the Colonial Government will be +found in Chapter IX. of Notes on the Aborigines. The following is a copy +of a private letter to John Morphett, Esq M.C., and published in the +Adelaide Observer of the 9th November, 1844:-- + + +"14th October, 1844. + +"I left Lake Victoria, as I told you in a former letter, on the 18th of +September, and again cut across the country to the Murray. As we +travelled along we saw numerous tracks of wild cattle leading from the +marshes to the river, and we encamped at the junction of the river and a +lagoon (one of the most beautiful spots you ever saw), just where these +tracks were most numerous. In the night therefore we were surrounded by +lowing herds, coming to the green pastures of which we had taken +possession. In the morning I sent Messrs. Poole and Brown, with Flood my +stockman, and Mark to drive in some bullocks, as I was anxious to secure +one or two workers. The brush however was too thick, and in galloping +through it after a bull, Flood's carbine exploded, and blew off three of +the fingers of his right hand. This accident obliged me to remain +stationary for two days, notwithstanding my anxiety to get up to the +lagoon at Williorara, to ascertain the truth or otherwise of the report I +had heard of the massacre of a party of overlanders there. + +"On the 23rd I reached the junction of the Ana branch with the Murray, +discovered by Eyre, and then turned northwards. Running this Ana branch +up, I crossed it where the water ceased, and went to the Darling, +striking it about fifteen miles above its junction with the Murray. The +unlooked-for course of the Darling however kept me longer on its banks +than I had anticipated; but you can form no idea of the luxuriant verdure +of its flats. They far surpass those of the Murray, both in quantity and +quality of soil; and extended for many miles at a stretch along the river +side. We have run up it at a very favourable season, and seen the +commencement of its floods; for, two days after we reached it, and found +it with scarcely any water in its bed, we observed a fresh in it, +indicated by a stronger current. The next morning to our surprise the +waters were half-bank high. They had risen six feet during the night, and +were carrying everything before them; now they are full sixteen feet +above their level, and a most beautiful river it is. Over this said +mysterious river, as Major Mitchell calls it, the trees drooped like +willows, or grew in dark clusters at each turn; the sloping banks were of +a vivid green, the flats lightly timbered, and the aspect of the whole +neighbourhood cheerful. + +"I had hoped that we should have been able to approach the ranges pretty +closely along the line of Laidley's Ponds; but fancy our disappointment +when we arrived on its banks to find that instead of a mountain stream it +was a paltry creek, connecting a lake, now dry, with the river, and that +its banks were quite bare. I was therefore obliged to fall back upon the +Darling, and have been unable to stir for the last four days by reason of +heavy rain. + +"On Tuesday I despatched Mr. Poole to the ranges, which are forty miles +distant from us, to ascertain if there is water or feed under them; but I +have no hope of good tidings, and believe I shall ultimately be obliged +to establish myself on the Darling. + +"You will be glad to hear, and so ought every body, that we have +maintained a most satisfactory intercourse with the natives. The report +we had heard referred to Major Mitchell's affray with them, and you will +not be surprised at their reverting to it, when I tell you that several +old men immediately recognized me as having gone down the Murray in a +boat, although they could have seen me for an hour or two only, and +fifteen years have now elapsed since I went down the river. I suppose we +misunderstood the story; but most assuredly I fully anticipated we +should, sooner or later, come on some dreadful acene or other, and I came +up fully prepared to act; but the natives have been exceedingly quiet, +nor have we seen a weapon in the hands of any of them: in truth I have +been quite astonished at the change in the blacks; for instead of +collecting in a body, they have visited us with their wives and children, +and have behaved in the most quiet manner. We may attribute this in part +to our own treatment of the natives, and in part to Eyre's influence over +them, which is very extensive, and has been productive of great good. The +account the natives give of the distant interior is very discouraging. It +is nothing more however than what I expected. They say that beyond the +hills it is all sand and rocks; that there is neither grass or water, or +wood; and that it is awfully hot. This last feature appears to terrify +them. They say that they are obliged to take wood to the hills for fire, +and that they clamber up the rocks on the hills; that when there is water +there, it is in deep holes from which they are obliged to sponge it up +and squeeze it out to drink. I do not in truth think that any of the +natives have been beyond the hills, and that the country is perfectly +impracticable. + +"We are now not more than two hundred and fifteen feet above the sea, +with a declining country to the north-west, and the general dip of the +continent to the south-west. What is the natural inference where there is +not a single river emptying itself upon the coast, but that there is an +internal basin? Such a country can only be penetrated by cool calculation +and determined perseverance. I have sat down before it as a besieger +before a fortress, to make my approaches with the same systematic +regularity. I must cut hay and send forage and water in advance, as far +as I can. I have the means of taking sixteen days' water and feed for two +horses and three men; and if I can throw my supplies one hundred miles in +advance, I shall be able to go two hundred miles more beyond that point, +at the rate of thirty miles a-day, one of us walking whilst two rode. +Surely at such a distance some new feature will open to reward our +efforts! My own opinion is, that an inland sea will bring us up ere +long--then how shall we get the boat upon it? 'Why,' you will say, +'necessity is the mother of invention.' You will find some means or +other, no doubt; and so we will. However, under any circumstances, depend +upon it I will either lift up or tear down the curtain which hides the +interior from us, so look out for the next accounts from me as of the +most interesting kind, as solving this great problem, or shutting the +door to discovery from this side the continent for ever. + +"P.S. Poole has just returned from the ranges. I have not time to write +over again. He says that there are high ranges to N. and N.W. and +water,--a sea extending along the horizon from S.W. by W., to ten E. of +N. in which there are a number of islands and lofty ranges as far as the +eye can reach. What is all this? Are we to be prosperous? I hope so; and +I am sure you do. To-morrow we start for the ranges, and then for the +waters,--the strange waters on which boat never swam, and over which flag +never floated. But both shall are long. We have the heart of the interior +laid open to us, and shall be off with a flowing sheet in a few days. +Poole says that the sea was a deep blue, and that in the midst of it +there was a conical island of great height. When will you hear from me +again?" + + +From this communication, Captain Sturt appears to be sanguine of having +realized the long hoped for sea, and at last of having found a key to the +centre of the continent. Most sincerely do I hope that this may be the +case, and that the next accounts may more than confirm such satisfactory +intelligence. + +My own impressions were always decidedly opposed to the idea of an inland +sea, nor have I changed them in the least, now that circumstances +amounting almost to proof, seem to favour that opinion. + +Entertaining, as I do, the highest respect for the opinion of one so +every way capable of forming a correct judgment as Captain Sturt, it is +with considerable diffidence that I advance any conjectures in opposition +to his, and especially so, as I may be thought presumptuous in doing so +in the face of the accounts received. Until these accounts, however, are +further confirmed, the question still remains as it was; and it may +perhaps not be out of place to allude to some of the reasons which have +led me to form an opinion somewhat different from that entertained by +Captain Sturt, and which I have been compelled to arrive at after a long +personal experience, a closer approach to the interior, and a more +extensive personal examination of the continent, than any other traveller +has hitherto made. In the course of that experience, I have never met +with the slightest circumstance to lead me to imagine that there should +be an inland sea, still less a deep navigable one, and having an outer +communication with the ocean. I can readily suppose, and, in fact, I do +so believe, that a considerable portion of the interior consists of the +beds or basins of salt lakes or swamps, as Lake Torrens, and some of +which might be of great extent. I think, also, that these alternate, with +sandy deserts, and that probably at intervals, there are many isolated +ranges, like the Gawler range, and which, perhaps, even in some places +may form a connection of links across the continent, could any favourable +point be obtained for commencing the examination. + +It is very possible that among these ranges, intervals of a better or +even of a rich and fertile country might be met with. + +The suggestion thrown out by Captain Sturt a few years ago, that +Australia might formerly have been an Archipelago of islands, appears to +me to have been a happy idea, and to afford the most rational and +satisfactory way of accounting for many of the peculiarities observable +upon its surface or in its structure. That it has only recently (compared +with other countries) obtained its present elevation, is often forcibly +impressed upon the traveller, by the appearance of the country he is +traversing, but no where have I found this to be the case in a greater +degree, than whilst exploring that part of it, north of Spencer's Gulf, +where a great portion of the low lands intervening, between the base of +Flinders range, and the bed of Lake Torrens, presents the appearance of a +succession of rounded undulations of sand or pebbles washed perfectly +smooth and even, looking like waves of the sea, and seeming as if they +had not been very many centuries deserted by the element that had moulded +them into their present form. In this singular district I found scattered +at intervals throughout the whole area inclosed by, but south of, Lake +Torrens, many steep-sided fragments of a table land, [Note 34 at end of +para.] which had evidently been washed to pieces by the violent action of +water, and which appeared to have been originally, of nearly the same +general elevation as the table lands to the westward. It seems to me, +that these table lands have formerly been the bed of the ocean, and this +opinion is fully borne out by the many marine remains, fossil shells, and +banks of oyster shells, [Note 35 at end of para.] which are frequently to +be met with embedded in them. What are now the ranges of the continent +would therefore formerly have been but rocks or islands, and if this +supposition be true, there are still hopes that some other islands are +scattered over the immense space occupied by Australia, and which may be +of as rich and fertile a character, as any that are yet known. Thus if +the intervening extent of desert lying between any of the known portions +of Australia, and what may be considered as having been the next island, +can be ascertained and crossed over, new and valuable regions may yet be +offered for the extension of the pastoral interest of our Colonies, +and for the general spread of civilization and improvement. + +[Note 34: "An hundred miles above this, I passed a curious feature, called +the "Square Hills" (plate 123 ). I landed my canoe and went ashore, and to +their tops to examine them. Though they appeared to be near the river, I +found it half a day's journey to travel to and from them; they being +several miles from the river. On ascending them I found them to be two or +three hundred feet high, and rising on their sides at an angle of 45 deg. +and on their tops, in some places for half a mile in length perfectly +level, with a green turf, and corresponding exactly with the tabular +hills spoken of above the Mandans, in plate 39, vol. 1. I therein said +that I should visit these hills on my way down the river; and I am fully +convinced from close examination, that they are a part of the same +original superstratum, which I therein described, though 7 or 800 miles +separated from them. They agree exactly in character, and also in the +materials of which they are composed; and I believe that some +unaccountable gorge of waters has swept away the intervening earth, +leaving these solitary and isolated, though incontrovertible evidences, +that the summit level of all this great valley, has at one time been +where the level surface of these hills now is, two or three hundred feet +above what is now denominated the summit level."--Catlin's American +Indians, Vol. 2. pp. 11 and 12.] + +[Note 35: Similar banks of fossil shells and oyster beds, are found in the +Arkansas.--Vide Catlin, Vol. 2. p. 85. At page 86, Mr. Catlin describes +banks of gypsum and salt, extending through a considerable extent of +country, and which apparently was of a very similar formation to some of +the localities I was in to the north of Spencer's Gulf.] + +I have already observed that several circumstances connected with my own +personal experience have led me to the conclusion, that there is no +inland sea now occupying the centre of New Holland; it will be sufficient +to name three of the most important of these. + +First. I may mention the hot winds which in South Australia, or opposite +the centre of the continent, always blow from the north, to those, who +have experienced the oppressive and scorching influence of these winds, +which can only be compared to the fiery and withering blasts from a +heated furnace, I need hardly point out that there is little probability +that such winds can have been wafted over a large expanse of water. + +Secondly. I may state that between the Darling river and the head of the +Great Australian Bight, I have at various points come into friendly +communication with the Aborigines inhabiting the outskirts of the +interior, and from them I have invariably learnt that they know of no +large body of water inland, fresh or salt; that there were neither trees +nor ranges, but that all was an arid waste so far as they were accustomed +to travel. + +Thirdly. I infer the non-existence of an inland sea, from the coincidence +observable in the physical appearance, customs, character, and pursuits +of the Aborigines at opposite points of the continent, whilst no such +coincidence exists along the intervening lines of coast connecting those +points. + +With respect to the first consideration, it is unnecessary to add further +remark; as regards the second, I may state, that although I may sometimes +not have met with natives at those precise spots which might have been +best suited for making inquiry, or although I may sometimes have had a +difficulty in explaining myself to, or in understanding a people whose +language I did not comprehend; yet such has not always been the case, and +on many occasions I have had intercourse with natives at favourable +positions, and have been able, quite intelligibly, to carry on any +inquiries. One of these opportunities occurred in the very neighbourhood +of the hill from which Mr. Poole is said to have seen the inland sea, as +described in Captain Sturt's despatch. + +There are several reasons for supposing Mr. Poole to have been deceived +in forming an opinion of the objects which he saw before him from that +elevation: first, I know, from experience, the extraordinary and +deceptive appearances that are produced in such a country as Mr. Poole +was in, by mirage and refration combined. I have often myself been very +similarly deceived by the semblance of hills, islands, and water, where +none such existed in reality. Secondly, in December 1843, I was within +twenty-five miles of the very spot from which Mr. Poole thought he looked +upon a sea, and I was then accompanied by natives, and able, by means of +an interpreter, to communicate with those who were acquainted with the +country to the north-west. My inquiries upon this point were particular; +but they knew of no sea. They asserted that there was mud out in that +direction, and that a party would be unable to travel; from which I +inferred either that some branch of the Darling spread out its waters +there in time of flood, or that Lake Torrens itself was stretching out in +the direction indicated. Thirdly, I hold it physically impossible that a +sea can exist in the place assigned to it, in as much as during an +expedition, undertaken by the Surveyor-general of the Colony, in +September, 1843, that officer had attained a position which would place +himself and Mr. Poole at two opposite points, upon nearly the same +parallel of latitude; but about 130 miles of longitude apart, in a low +level country, and in which, therefore, the ranges of their respective +vision from elevations would cross each other, and if there was a sea, +Captain Frome must have seen it as well as Mr. Poole; again, I myself had +an extensive and distant view to the north-east and east from Mount +Hopeless, a low hill, about ninety miles further north than Captain +Frome's position, but a little more east; yet there was nothing like a +sea to be seen from thence, the dry and glazed-looking bed of Lake +Torrens alone interrupting the monotony of the desert. + +There are still some few points connected with our knowledge of the +outskirts of the interior which leave great room for speculation, and +might lead to the opinion that it is not altogether a low or a desert +region. The facts which have more immediately come under my own +observation, are connected, first with the presence of birds belonging to +a higher and better country in the midst of a desert region, and +secondly, with the line of route taken by the Aborigines in spreading +over the continent, as deduced from a coincidence or dissimilarity of the +manners, customs, or languages of tribes remotely apart from one another. + +With respect to the presence of birds in a region such as they do not +usually frequent, I may state that at Mount Arden, near the head of +Spencer's Gulf, swans were seen taking their flight high in the air, to +the north, as if making for some river or lake they were accustomed to +feed at. At the Frome river, where it spreads into the plains to the +north of Flinders range; four white cockatoos were found flying about +among the trees, although those birds had not been met with for 200 miles +before I attained that point. [Note 36: Vide Vol. I. July 4, Aug 31, +and March 19.] And about longitude 128 degrees 20 minutes E., when +crossing over towards King George's Sound, large parrots were found coming +from the north-east, to feed upon the berries of a shrub growing on the +sea coast, although no parrots were seen for two or three hundred +miles on either side, either to the east or to the west, they +must, therefore, have come from the interior. Now the parrot is a bird +that often frequents a mountainous country, and always inhabits one +having timber of a better description and larger growth than the +miserable shrubs met with along the coast; it is a bird too that always +lives within reach of permanent fresh-water, as rivers, lakes, creeks, +pools, etc. Can there then be such in the interior, with so barren and +arid a region, bounding it? and how are we to commence an examination +with so many difficulties and embarrassments attending the very outset? + +The second series of facts which have attracted my attention, relate to +the Aborigines. It is a well known circumstance that the dialects, +customs, and pursuits in use among them in the various parts of the +continent, differ very much from each other in some particulars, and yet +that there is such a general similarity in the aggregate as to leave no +room to doubt that all the Aborigines of Australia have had one common +origin, and are in reality one and the same race. If this then is really +the case, they must formerly have spread over the continent from one +first point, and this brings me to the + +Third reason I have mentioned as being one, from which I infer, that +there is not an inland sea, viz., the coincidence observable in the +physical appearance, customs, character, and pursuits of the Aborigines, +at opposite points of the continent, whilst no such coincidence exists +along the intervening lines of coast connecting those two points, and +which naturally follows from the circumstances connected with the present +location of the various tribes in which this is observable, and with the +route which they must have taken to arrive at the places they now occupy +on the continent. [Note 37 at end of para.] I believe that the idea of +attempting to deduce the character of the continent, and the most probable +line for crossing it, from the circumstances and habits of the natives +inhabiting the coast line is quite a novel one. It appears to me, however, +to be worth consideration; and if it is true that the natives have all one +common origin, and have spread over the continent from one first point, +I think it may reasonably be inferred that there is a practicable route +across the centre of New Holland, and that this line lies between the +125th and 135th degrees of east longitude. It further appears that there +must still be a second route, other than the coast line, in the direction +between Port Jackson in New South Wales and the south-east corner of the +Gulf of Carpentaria on the north coast. + +[Note 37: Vide Chapter VII. of Notes on the Aborigines, where this subject +will be found fully discussed, and the reasons given for supposing the +conclusions here assumed.] + +If then we have reasonable grounds for believing that such lines of route +actually do exist, it becomes a matter of much interest and importance to +determine the most favourable point from which to explore them. My own +experience has pointed out the dreadful nature of the southern coast, and +the very great and almost insuperable difficulties that beset the +traveller at the very commencement--in his efforts even to establish a +single depot from which to enter upon his researches. The northern coast +may, probably, afford greater facilities, but in a tropical climate, +where the heat and other circumstances render ordinary difficulties and +impediments still more embarrassing and dangerous, it is a matter of deep +moment that the expedition for interior exploration should commence at +the right point, and this can only be ascertained by a previous +examination. + +I have myself always been most anxious to attempt to cross from Moreton +Bay on the N. E. coast to Port Essington on the N. W. I believe that this +journey is quite practicable, and I have no doubt that if judiciously +conducted, and the country to the south of the line of route always +examined, as far as that could be done, it would completely develop, in +connection with what is already known, the character and formation of +Australia, and would at once point out the most proper place from which +subsequent expeditions ought to start in order finally to accomplish the +passage across its interior--from the north to the south. + + + + + +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE ABORIGINES OF AUSTRALIA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS--UNJUST OPINIONS GENERALLY ENTERTAINED OF THE +CHARACTER OF THE NATIVE--DIFFICULTIES AND DISADVANTAGES HE LABOURS UNDER +IN HIS RELATIONS WITH EUROPEANS--AGGRESSIONS AND INJURIES ON THE PART OF +THE LATTER IN GREAT DEGREE EXTENUATE HIS CRIMES. + + +Upon bringing to a close the narrative of an Expedition of Discovery in +Australia, during the progress of which an extensive portion of the +previously unknown parts of that continent were explored, I have thought +it might not be uninteresting to introduce a few pages on the subject of +the Aborigines of the country. + +It would afford me much gratification to see an interest excited on their +behalf proportioned to the claims of a people who have hitherto been +misjudged or misrepresented. + +For the last twelve years I have been personally resident in one or other +of the Australian Colonies, and have always been in frequent intercourse +with the aboriginal tribes that were near, rarely being without some of +them constantly with me as domestics. + +To the advantages of private opportunities of acquiring a knowledge of +their character were added, latterly, the facilities afforded by my +holding a public appointment in South Australia, in the midst of a +district more densely populated by natives than any in that Colony, where +no settler had ventured to locate, and where, prior to my arrival in +October 1841, frightful scenes of bloodshed, rapine, and hostility +between the natives and parties coming overland with stock, had been of +frequent and very recent occurrence. + +As Resident Magistrate of the Murray District, I may almost say, that for +the last three years I have lived with the natives. My duties have +frequently taken me to very great distances up the Murray or the Darling +rivers, when I was generally accompanied only by a single European, or at +most two, and where, if attacked, there was no possibility of my +receiving any human aid. I have gone almost alone among hordes of those +fierce and blood-thirsty savages, as they were then considered, and have +stood singly amongst them in the remote and trackless wilds, when +hundreds were congregated around, without ever receiving the least injury +or insult. + +In my first visits to the more distant tribes I found them shy, alarmed, +and suspicious, but soon learning that I had no wish to injure them, they +met me with readiness and confidence. My wishes became their law; they +conceded points to me that they would not have done to their own people, +and on many occasions cheerfully underwent hunger, thirst, and fatigue to +serve me. + +Former habits and prejudices in some respects gave way to the influence I +acquired. Tribes that never met or heard of one another before were +brought to mingle in friendly intercourse. Single individuals traversed +over immense distances and through many intervening tribes, which +formerly they never could have attempted to pass, and in accomplishing +this the white man's name alone was the talisman that proved their +safe-guard and protection. + +During the whole of the three years I was Resident at Moorunde, not a +single case of serious injury or aggression ever took place on the part +of the natives against the Europeans; and a district, once considered the +wildest and most dangerous, was, when I left it in November 1844, looked +upon as one of the most peaceable and orderly in the province. + +Independently of my own personal experience, on the subject of the +Aborigines, I have much pleasure in acknowledging the obligations I am +under to M. Moorhouse, Esq. Protector of Aborigines in Adelaide, for his +valuable assistance, in comparing and discussing the results of our +respective observations, on matters connected with the natives, and for +the obliging manner in which he has furnished me with many of his own +important and well-arranged notes on various points of interest in their +history. + +By this aid, I am enabled, in the following pages, to combine my own +observations and experience with those of Mr. Moorhouse, especially on +points connected with the Adelaide Tribes. In some cases, extracts from +Mr. Moorhouse's notes, will be copied in his own words, but in most I +found an alteration or rearrangement to be indispensable to enable me to +connect and amplify the subjects: I wish it to be particularly +understood, however, that with any deductions, inferences, remarks, or +suggestions, that may incidentally be introduced, Mr. Moorhouse is +totally unconnected, that gentleman's notes refer exclusively to abstract +matters of fact, relating to the habits, customs, or peculiarities of the +people treated of, and are generally confined to the Adelaide Tribes. + +[Note 38: Some few of these notes were printed in the Colony, in a +detached form, as Reports to the Colonial Government, or in the +Vocabularies of the Missionaries, and since my return to England I find +others have been published in papers, ordered to be printed by the House +of Commons, in August 1844. From the necessity, however, of altering in +some measure the phraseology, to combine Mr. Moorhouse's remarks with my +own, and to preserve a uniformity in the descriptions, it has not been +practicable or desirable in all cases, to separate or distinguish by +inverted commas, those observations which I have adopted. I have, +therefore, preferred making a general acknowledgment of the use I have +made of the notes that were supplied to me by Mr. Moorhouse.] + +In the descriptions given in the following pages, although there may +occasionally be introduced, accounts of the habits, manners, or customs +of some of the tribes inhabiting different parts of Australia I have +visited, yet there are others which are exclusively peculiar to the +natives of South Australia. I wish it, therefore, to be understood, that +unless mention is made of other tribes, or other parts of the continent, +the details given are intended to apply to that province generally, and +particularly to the tribes in it, belonging to the districts of Adelaide +and the Murray river. + +As far as has yet been ascertained, the whole of the aboriginal +inhabitants of this continent, scattered as they are over an immense +extent of country, bear so striking a resemblance in physical appearance +and structure to each other; and their general habits, customs, and +pursuits, are also so very similar, though modified in some respects by +local circumstances or climate, that little doubt can be entertained that +all have originally sprung from the same stock. The principal points of +difference, observable between various tribes, appear to consist chiefly +in some of their ceremonial observances, and in the variations of dialect +in the language they speak; the latter are, indeed, frequently so great, +that even to a person thoroughly acquainted with any one dialect, there +is not the slightest clue by which he can understand what is said by a +tribe speaking a different one. + +The only account I have yet met with, which professed to give any +particular description of the Aborigines of New Holland, is that +contained in the able papers upon this subject, by Captain Grey, in the +second volume of his travels. When it is considered, that the material +for that purpose was collected by the author, during a few months +interval between his two expeditions, which he spent at Swan River, and a +short time subsequently passed at King George's Sound, whilst holding the +appointment of Government Resident there; it is perfectly surprising that +the amount of information amassed should be so great, and so generally +correct, on subjects where so many mistakes are liable to be made, in all +first inquiries, when we are ignorant of the character and habits of the +people of whom information is to be sought, and unacquainted with the +language they speak. + +The subject, however, upon a portion of which Captain Grey so +successfully entered, is very extensive, and one which no single +individual, except by the devotion of a life-time, could hope fully to +discuss. The Continent of Australia is so vast, and the dialects, +customs, and ceremonies of its inhabitants so varied in detail, though so +similar in general outline and character, that it will require the lapse +of years, and the labours of many individuals, to detect and exhibit the +links which form the chain of connection in the habits and history of +tribes so remotely separated; and it will be long before any one can +attempt to give to the world a complete and well-drawn outline of the +whole. + +It is not therefore to satisfy curiosity, or to interrupt the course of +inquiry, that I enter upon the present work; I neither profess, nor could +I attempt to give a full or matured account of the Aborigines of New +Holland. Captain Grey's descriptions on this subject are limited to the +races of South-western, as mine are principally directed to those of +Southern Australia, with occasionally some remarks or anecdotes relating +to tribes in other parts of the Continent with whom I have come in +contact. + +The character of the Australian native has been so constantly +misrepresented and traduced, that by the world at large he is looked upon +as the lowest and most degraded of the human species, and is generally +considered as ranking but little above the members of the brute creation. +Savages have always many vices, but I do not think that these are worse +in the New Hollanders, than in many other aboriginal races. It is said, +indeed, that the Australian is an irreclaimable, unteachable being; that +he is cruel, blood-thirsty, revengeful, and treacherous; and in support +of such assertions, references are made to the total failure of all +missionary and scholastic efforts hitherto made on his behalf, and to +many deeds of violence or aggression committed by him upon the settler. + +[Note 39: I cannot adduce a stronger proof in support of the position I +assume, in favour of the natives, than by quoting the clear and just +conclusions at which the Right Honourable Lord Stanley, the present +Secretary of State for the Colonies, arrived, when considering the case of +some collisions with the natives on the Ovens River, and after a full +consideration of the various circumstances connected with the occurrence. +In a despatch to Governor Sir G. Gipps, dated 5th October, 1841, Lord +Stanley says, "Contrasting the accounts of the Aborigines given by Mr. +Docker with those given by Mr. Mackay, and the different terms on which +those gentlemen appear to be with them in the same vicinity, I cannot +divest myself of the apprehension that the fault in this case lies with +the colonists rather than with the natives. It was natural, that conduct +so harsh and intemperate as that of the Messrs. Mackay should be signally +visited on them, and probably also on wholly unoffending persons, by a +race of uninstructed and ignorant savages. At the same time the case of +Mr. Docker affords a most satisfactory instance of natives entering into +permanent service with white men, and working, as they appear to do, +steadily for wages."] + +With respect to the first point, I consider that an intimate knowledge of +the peculiar habits, laws, and traditions, by which this people are +governed, is absolutely necessary, before any just opinion can be formed +as to how far the means hitherto pursued, have been suitable, or adapted +to counteract the influence of custom and the force of prejudice. Until +this knowledge is attained, we have no right to brand them as either +irreclaimable, or unteachable. My own impression, after long experience, +and an attentive consideration of the subject, is, that in the present +anomalous state of our relations with the Aborigines, our measures are +neither comprehensive enough for, nor is our system sufficiently adapted +to, the singular circumstances they are in, to enable us successfully to +contend with the difficulties and impediments in the way of their rising +in the scale of civilization. + +Upon the second point it is also necessary to make many inquiries before +we arrive at our conclusions; and I have no doubt, if this be done with +calmness, and without prejudice, it will be generally found that there +are many extenuating circumstances which may be brought to modify our +judgment. I am anxious, if possible, to place a few of these before the +public, in the hope, that by lessening in some degree the unfavourable +opinion heretofore entertained of the Aborigines, they may be considered +for the future as more deserving our sympathy and benevolence. + +Without assuming for the native a freedom from vice, or in any way +attempting to palliate the many brutalising habits that pollute his +character, I would still contend that, if stained with the excesses of +unrestrained passions, he is still sometimes sensible to the better +emotions of humanity. Many of the worst traits in his character are the +result of necessity, or the force of custom--the better ones are +implanted in him as a part of his nature. With capabilities for +receiving, and an aptness for acquiring instruction, I believe he has +also the capacity for appreciating the rational enjoyments of life. + +Even in his present low and debased condition, and viewed under every +disadvantages, I do not imagine that his vices would usually be found +greater, or his passions more malignant than those of a very large +proportion of men ordinarily denominated civilised. On the contrary, I +believe were Europeans placed under the same circumstances, equally +wronged, and equally shut out from redress, they would not exhibit half +the moderation or forbearance that these poor untutored children of +impulse have invariably shewn. + +It is true that occasionally many crimes have been committed by them, and +robberies and murders have too often occurred; but who can tell what were +the provocations which led to, what the feelings which impelled such +deeds? Neither have they been the only or the first aggressors, nor has +their race escaped unscathed in the contest. Could blood answer blood, +perhaps for every drop of European's shed by natives, a torrent of their, +by European hands, would crimson the earth. + +[Note 40: "The whites were generally the aggressors. He had been informed +that a petition had been presented to the Governor, containing a list of +nineteen murders committed by the blacks. He could, if it were necessary, +make out a list of five hundred blacks who had been slaughtered by the +whites, and that within a short time."--Extract from speech of Mr. +Threlkeld to the Auxiliary Aborigines' Protection Society in New South +Wales. Abstract of a "Return of the number of homicides committed +respectively by blacks and whites, within the limits of the northwestern +district (of Port Phillip), since its first occupation by settlers--" + +"Total number of white people killed by Aborigines 8 +"Total number of Aborigines killed by white people 43." + +This is only in one district, and only embraces such cases as came to the +knowledge of Mr. Protector Parker. For particulars vide Papers on +Aborigines of Australian Colonies, printed for the House of Commons, +August 1844, p. 318.] + +Let us now inquire a little, upon whose side right and justice are +arrayed in palliation (if any such there can be) of deeds of violence or +aggression on the part of either. + +It is an undeniable fact, that wherever European colonies have been +established in Australia, the native races in that neighbourhood are +rapidly decreasing, and already in some of the elder settlements, have +totally disappeared. It is equally indisputable that the presence of the +white man has been the sole agent in producing so lamentable an effect; +that the evil is still going on, increased in a ratio proportioned to the +number of new settlements formed, or the rapidity with which the settlers +overrun new districts. The natural, the inevitable, but the no less +melancholy result must be, that in the course of a few years more, if +nothing be done to check it, the whole of the aboriginal tribes of +Australia will be swept away from the face of the earth. A people who, by +their numbers, have spread around the whole of this immense continent, +and have probably penetrated into and occupied its inmost recesses, will +become quite extinct, their name forgotten, their very existence but a +record of history. + +It is a popular, but an unfair and unwarranted assumption, that these +consequences are the result of the natural course of events; that they +are ordained by Providence, unavoidable, and not to be impeded. Let us at +least ascertain how far they are chargeable upon ourselves. + +Without entering upon the abstract question concerning the right of one +race of people to wrest from another their possessions, simply because +they happen to be more powerful than the original inhabitants, or because +they imagine that they can, by their superior skill or acquirements, +enable the soil to support a denser population, I think it will be +conceded by every candid and right-thinking mind, that no one can justly +take that which is not his own, without giving some equivalent in return, +or deprive a people of their ordinary means of support, and not provide +them with any other instead. Yet such is exactly the position we are in +with regard to the inhabitants of Australia. + +[Note 41: "The invasion of those ancient rights (of the natives) by +survey and land appropriations of any kind, is justifiable only on the +ground, that we should at the same time reserve for the natives an AMPLE +SUFFICIENCY for THEIR PRESENT and future use and comfort, under the new +style of things into which they are thrown; a state in which we hope they +will be led to live in greater comfort, on a small space, than +they enjoyed before it occurred, on their extensive original +possessions."--Reply of His Excellency Colonel Gawler, to the gentlemen +who objected to sections of land being appropriated for the natives, +before the public were allowed to select.] + +Without laying claim to this country by right of conquest, without +pleading even the mockery of cession, or the cheatery of sale, we have +unhesitatingly entered upon, occupied, and disposed of its lands, +spreading forth a new population over its surface, and driving before us +the original inhabitants. + +To sanction this aggression, we have not, in the abstract, the slightest +shadow of either right or justice--we have not even the extenuation of +endeavouring to compensate those we have injured, or the merit of +attempting to mitigate the sufferings our presence inflicts. + +It is often argued, that we merely have taken what the natives did not +require, or were making no use of; that we have no wish to interfere with +them if they do not interfere with us, but rather that we are disposed to +treat them with kindness and conciliation, if they are willing to be +friends with us. What, however, are the actual facts of the case; and +what is the position of a tribe of natives, when their country is first +taken possession of by Europeans. + +It is true that they do not cultivate the ground; but have they, +therefore, no interest in its productions? Does it not supply grass for +the sustenance of the wild animals upon which in a great measure they are +dependent for their subsistence?--does it not afford roots and vegetables +to appease their hunger?--water to satisfy their thirst, and wood to make +their fire?--or are these necessaries left to them by the white man when +he comes to take possession of their soil? Alas, it is not so! all are in +turn taken away from the original possessors. The game of the wilds that +the European does not destroy for his amusement are driven away by his +flocks and herds. [Note 42 at end of para.] The waters are occupied and +enclosed, and access to them in frequently forbidden. The fields are +fenced in, and the natives are no longerat liberty to dig up roots--the +white man claims the timber, and the very firewood itself is occasion +ally denied to them. Do they pass by the habitation of the intruder, they +are probably chased away or bitten by his dogs, and for this they can +get no redress. [Note 43 at end of para.] Have they dogs of their own, +they are unhesitatingly shot or worried because they are an annoyance to +the domestic animals of the Europeans. Daily and hourly do their wrongs +multiply upon them. The more numerous the white population becomes, and +the more advanced the stage of civilization to which the settlement +progresses, the greater are the hardships that fall to their lot and the +more completely are they cut off from the privileges of their birthright. +All that they have is in succession taken away from them--their +amusements, their enjoyments, their possessions, their freedom--and all +that they receive in return is obloquy, and contempt, and degradation, +and oppression. [Note 44 appears after note 43, below] + +[Note 42: "But directly an European settles down in the country, his +constant residence in one spot soon sends the animals away from it, and +although he may in no other way interfere with the natives, the mere +circumstance of his residing there, does the man on whose land he settles +the injury of depriving him of his ordinary means of subsistence."--GREY'S +TRAVELS, vol. ii. p. 298. + +"The great question was, were we to give them no equivalent for that which +we had taken from them? Had we deprived them of nothing? Was it +nothing that they were driven from the lands where their fathers +lived, where they were born and which were endeared to them by +associations equally strong with the associations of more civilsed +people? He believed that their affections were as warm as the Europeans." +"Perhaps he obtained his subsistence by fishing, and occupied a slip of +land on the banks of a river or the margin of a lake. Was he to be turned +off as soon as the land was required, without any consideration +whatever?" "Had any proper attempt been made for their civilization? They +had not yet had fair play--they had been courted by the missionaries with +the Bible on the one hand, and had at the sametime been driven away and +destroyed by the stock-keepers on the other. He thought that they might +be reclaimed if the proper course was adopted."--EXTRACTS FROM THE SPEECH +OF SYDNEY STEPHEN, ESQ., AT A MEETING ON BEHALF OF THE ABORIGINES IN +SYDNEY, OCTOBER 19, 1838. + +I have myself repeatedly seen the natives driven off private lands in the +vicinity of Adelaide, and their huts burned, even in cold wet weather. +The records of the Police Office will shew that they have been driven off +the Park lands, or those belonging to Government, or at least that they +have been brought up and punished for cutting wood from the trees there. +What are they to do, when there is not a stick or a tree within miles of +Adelaide that they can legally take?] + + +[Note 43: I have known repeated instances of natives in Adelaide +being bitten severely by savage dogs rushing out at them from the +yards of their owners, as they were peaceably passing along the street. On +the other hand I have known a native imprisoned for throwing his waddy at, +and injuring a pig, which was eating a melon he had laid down for a moment +in the street, and when the pig ought not to have been in the street at +all. In February 1842, a dog belonging to a native was shot by order of +Mr. Gouger, the then Colonial Secretary, and the owner as soon as he +became aware of the circumstance, speared his wife for not taking better +care of it, although she could not possibly have helped the occurrence. If +natives then revenge so severely such apparently trivial offences among +themselves, can we wonder that they should sometimes retaliate upon us +for more aggravated ones.] + +[Note 44: The following are extracts from an address to a jury, when +trying some aboriginal natives, by Judge Willis. They at least shew some +of the BLESSINGS the Aborigines experience from being made British +subjects, and placed under British laws:--"I have, on a recent occasion, +stated my opinion, which I still entertain, that the proprietor of a run, +or, in other words, one who holds a lease or license from the Crown to +depasture certain Crown lands, may take all lawful means to prevent either +natives or others from entering or remaining upon it." "The aboriginals of +Van Diemen's Land were strictly commanded, by Governor Arthur's +proclamation of the 15th of April 1828 (a proclamation of which His +Majesty King George the Fourth, through the Right honourable the then +Secretary of State, by a dispatch of the 2nd of February, 1829, under the +circumstances, signified his approval,) "to retire and depart from, and +for no reason, and no pretence, save as therein provided, (viz. +travelling annually to the sea coast in quest of shellfish, under certain +regulations,) to re-enter the settled districts of Van Diemen's Land, or +any portions of land cultivated and occupied by any person whomsoever, +under the authority of Her Majesty's Government, on pain of forcible +expulsion therefrom, and such consequences as might be necessarily +attendant on it, and all magistrates and other persons by them authorized +and deputed, were required to conform themselves to the directions and +instructions of this proclamation, in effecting the retirement and +expulsion of the Aborigines from the settled districts of that +territory."] + +What are they to do under such circumstances, or how support a life so +bereft of its wonted supplies? Can we wonder that they should still +remain the same low abject and degraded creatures that they are, +loitering about the white man's house, and cringing, and pandering to the +lowest menial for that food they can no longer procure for themselves? or +that wandering in misery through a country, now no longer their own, +their lives should be curtailed by want, exposure, or disease? If, on the +other hand, upon the first appearance of Europeans, the natives become +alarmed, and retire from their presence, they must give up all the haunts +they had been accustomed to frequent, and must either live in a starving +condition, in the back country, ill supplied with game, and often wanting +water, or they must trespass upon the territory of another tribe, in a +district perhaps little calculated to support an additional population, +even should they be fortunate enough to escape being forced into one +belonging to an enemy. + +Under any circumstances, however, they have but little respite from +inconvenience and want. The white man rapidly spreads himself over the +country, and without the power of retiring any further, they are +overtaken, and beset by all the evils from which they had previously +fled. + +Such are some of the blessings held out to the savage by civilization, +and they are only some of them. The picture is neither fanciful nor +overdrawn; there is no trait in it that I have not personally witnessed, +or that might not have been enlarged upon; and there are often other +circumstances of greater injury and aggression, which, if dwelt upon, +would have cast a still darker shade upon the prospects and condition of +the native. + +Enough has, however, perhaps been said to indicate the degree of injury +our presence unavoidably inflicts. I would hope, also, to point out the +justice, as well as the expediency of appropriating a considerable +portion of the money obtained, by the sales of land, towards alleviating +the miseries our occupation of their country has occasioned to the +original owners. + +[Note 44a: "That it appears to memorialists that the original occupants of +the soil have an irresistible claim on the Government of this country for +support, inasmuch as the presence of the colonists abridges their means +of subsistence, whilst it furnishes to the public treasury a large +revenue in the shape of fees for licences and assessments on stock, +together with the very large sums paid for land seized by the Crown, and +alienated to private individuals. + +"That it appears to memorialists that the interests at once of the +natives and the colonists would be most effectually promoted by the +government reserving suitable portions of land within the territorial +limits of the respective tribes, with the view of weaning them +from their erratic habits, forming thereon depots for supplying +them with provisions and clothing, under the charge of individuals +of exemplary moral character, taking at the same time an interest +in their welfare, and who would endeavour to instruct them in agricultural +and other useful arts."--Extract from Memorial of the Settlers of +the County of Grant, in the district of Port Phillip, to His Excellency +Sir G. Gipps, in 1840.] + +Surely if we acknowledge the first principles of justice, or if we admit +the slightest claims of humanity on behalf of these debased, but harshly +treated people, we are bound, in honour and in equity, to afford them +that subsistence which we have deprived them of the power of providing +for themselves. + +It may, perhaps, be replied, and at first it might seem, with some +appearance of speciousness, that all is done that can be done for them, +that each of the Colonial Governments annually devotes a portion of its +revenue to the improvement, instruction, and maintenance of the natives. +So far this is very praiseworthy, but does it in any degree compensate +for the evil inflicted? + +The money usually voted by the councils of Government, towards defraying +expenses incurred on behalf of the Aborigines of Australia, is but a very +small per centage upon the sums that have been received for the sales of +lands, and is principally expended in defraying the salaries of +protectors, in supporting schools, providing food or clothing for one or +two head stations, and perhaps supplying a few blankets once in the year +to some of the outstations. Little is expended in the daily provisioning +of the natives generally, and especially in the more distant country +districts least populated by Europeans, but most densely occupied by +natives, and where the very thinness of the European inhabitants +precludes the Aborigines from resorting to the same sources to supply +their wants, that are open to them in a town, or more thickly inhabited +district. Such are those afforded by the charity of individuals, by the +rewards received for performing trifling services of work, by the +obtaining vast quantities of offal, or of broken victuals, which are +always abundant in a country where animal food is used in excess, and +where the heat of the climate daily renders much of it unfit for +consumption in the family, and by others of a similar nature. + +Such resources, however humiliating and pernicious they are in their +effects, are not open to the tribes living in a district almost +exclusively occupied by the sheep or cattle of the settler, and where the +very numbers of the stock only more completely drive away the original +game upon which the native had been accustomed to subsist, and hold out a +greater temptation to him to supply his wants from the superabundance +which he sees around him, belonging to those by whom he has been +dispossessed. The following appropriate remarks are an extract from +Report of Aborigines' Protection Society, of March, 1841, (published in +the South Australian Register, 4th December, 1841.) + +"Under that system it is obvious to every coloured man, even the least +intelligent, that the extending settlements of the Europeans involve a +sentence of banishment, and eventual extermination, upon his tribe and +race. Major Mitchell, in his travels, refers to this apprehension on the +part of the Aborigines--"White man come, Kangaroo go away"--from which as +an inevitable consequence follows--"black man famished away." If, then, +this appears a necessary result of the unjust, barbarous, unchristian +mode of colonization pursued in New Holland, over-looking the other +incidental, and more pointedly aggravating provocations, to the coloured +man, associated with that system, how natural, in his case, is an enmity +which occasionally visits some of the usurping race with death! We call +the offence in him MURDER; but let the occasion be only examined, and we +must discover that, in so designating it, we are imposing geographical, +or national restrictions, upon the virtue of patriotism; or that in the +mani-festations of that principle, we make no allowances for the +influence on its features of the relative degradation or elevation of +those among whom it is met. + +"Our present colonization system renders the native and the colonizing +races from necessity belligerents; and there can be no real peace, no +real amity, no mutual security, so long as that system is not substituted +by one reconciling the interest of both races. Colonists will fall before +the spears and the waddies of incensed Aborigines, and they in return +will be made the victims of 'summary justice.' + +"In cases of executive difficulty, the force of popular prejudice will be +apt to be too strong for the best intentioned Governor to withstand it; +Europeans will have sustained injury; the strict forms of legal justice +may be found of difficult application to a race outcast or degraded, +although ORIGINALLY in a condition fitted to appreciate them, to benefit +by them, and reflect their benefits upon others; impatient at this +difficulty, the delay it may occasion, and the shelter from ultimate +punishment, the temptation will ever be strong to revert to summary +methods of proceeding; and thus, as in a circle, injustice will be found +to flow reciprocal injury, and from injury injustice again, in another +form. The source of all these evils, and of all this injustice, is the +unreserved appropriation of native lands, and the denial, in the first +instance of colonization, of equal civil rights. To the removal of those +evils, so far as they can be removed in the older settlements, to their +prevention in new colonies, the friends of the Aborigines are invoked to +direct their energy; to be pacified with the attainment of nothing less; +for nothing less will really suffice." + +Can it be deemed surprising that a rude, uncivilized being, driven from +his home, deprived of all his ordinary means of subsistence [Note 45 at +end of para.], and pressed perhaps by a hostile tribe from behind, should +occasionally be guilty of aggressions or injuries towards his oppressors? +The wonder rather is, not that these things do sometimes occur, but that +they occur so rarely. + +[Note 45: "If you can still be generous to the conquered, relieve the +hunger which drives us in despair to slaughter your flocks and the men who +guard them. Our fields and forests, which once furnished us with abundance +of vegetable and animal food, now yield us no more; they and their produce +are yours; you prosper on our native soil, and we are famishing." +--STRZELECKI'S N. S. WALES, p. 356.] + +In addition to the many other inconsistencies in our conduct towards the +Aborigines, not the least extraordinary is that of placing them, on the +plea of protection, under the influence of our laws, and of making them +British subjects. Strange anomaly, which by the former makes amenable to +penalties they are ignorant of, for crimes which they do not consider as +such, or which they may even have been driven to commit by our own +injustice; and by the latter but mocks them with an empty sound, since +the very laws under which we profess to place them, by their nature and +construction are inoperative in affording redress to the injured. + +[Note 46: "To subject savage tribes to the penalties of laws with which +they are unacquainted, for offences which they, very possibly, regard as +acts of justifiable retaliation for invaded rights, is a proceeding +indefensible, except under circumstances of urgent and extreme +necessity."--Fourth Report of the Colonization Commissioners, presented to +the House of Commons, 29th July, 1840. + +"The late act, declaring them naturalized as British subjects, has only +rendered them legally amenable to the English criminal law, and added one +more anomaly to all the other enactments affecting them. This +naturalization excludes them from sitting on a jury, or appearing as +witnesses, and entails a most confused form of judicial proceedings; all +which, taken together, has made of the Aborigines of Australia a +nondescript caste, who, to use their own phraseology, are 'neither black +nor white.'"--Strzelecki's N. S. Wales.] + +If, in addition to the many evils and disadvantages the natives must +necessarily be subject to from our presence, we take still further into +account the wrongs they are exposed to from the ill feeling towards them +which has sometimes existed among the settlers, or their servants, on the +outskirts of the country; the annoyances they are harassed by, even where +this feeling does not exist, in being driven away from their usual haunts +and pursuits (and this is a practice often adopted by the remote grazier +as a mere matter of policy to avoid trouble or the risk of a collision); +we shall find upon the whole that they have often just causes of offence, +and that there are many circumstances connected with their crimes which, +from the peculiar position they are placed in, may well require from us +some mitigation of the punishment that would be exacted from Europeans +for the same misdeeds. + +Captain Grey has already remarked the strong prejudice and recklessness +of human life which frequently exist on the part of the settlers with +regard to the natives. Nor has this feeling been confined to Western +Australia alone. In all the colonies, that I have been in, I have myself +observed that a harsh and unjust tone has occasionally been adopted in +speaking of the Aborigines; and that where a feeling of prejudice does +not exist against them, there is too often a great indifference +manifested as to their fate. I do not wish it to be understood that such +is always the case; on the contrary, I know that the better, and right +thinking part of the community, in all the colonies, not only disavow +such feelings, but are most anxious, as far as lies in their power, to +promote the interests and welfare of the natives. Still, there are always +some, in every settlement, whose passions, prejudices, interests, or +fears, obliterate their sense of right and wrong, and by whom these poor +wanderers of the woods are looked upon as intruders in their own country, +or as vermin that infest the land, and whose blood may be shed with as +little compunction as that of the wild animals they are compared to. + +By those who have heard the dreadful accounts current in Western +Australia, and New South Wales, of the slaughter formerly committed by +military parties, or by the servants [Note 47 at end of para.] of the +settlers upon the Aborigines, in which it is stated that men, women, and +children have been surprised, surrounded and shot down indiscriminately, +at their camps at night; or who have heard such deeds, or other similar +ones, justified or boasted of, it will readily be believed to what an +extent the feeling I have alluded to has occasionally been carried, and +to what excesses it has led. [Note 48 appears after Note 47, below] + +[Note 47: The following extract from a reply of his Honour the +Superintendent of Port Phillip to the representation made to his Honour +by the settlers and inhabitants of the district of Port Fairy, in +March 1842, shews that these frightful atrocities against the natives +had not even then ceased. + +"That the presence of a protector in your district, and other means of +prevention hitherto employed, have not succeeded better than they have +done in repressing aggression or retaliation, and have failed to establish +a good understanding between the natives and the European settlers, +is greatly to be deplored. + +"As far as the local government has power, every practicable extension +of these arrangements shall be made without delay; but, gentlemen, +however harsh, a plain truth must be told, the destruction of +European property, and even the occasional sacrifice of European +life, by the hands of the savage tribes, among whom you live, if +unprovoked and unrevenged, may justly claim sympathy and pity; but the +feeling of abhorrence which one act of savage retaliation or cruelty on +your part will rouse, must weaken, if not altogether obliterate every +other, in the minds of most men; and I regret to state, that I have +before me a statement presented in a form which I dare not discredit, +shewing that such acts are perpetrated among you. + +"It reveals a nightly attack upon a small number of natives, by a +party of the white inhabitants of your district, and the murder of +no fewer than three defenceless aboriginal women and a child, in +their sleeping place; and this at the very time your memorial was +in the act of signature, and in the immediate vicinity of the station +of two of the parties who have signed it. Will not the commission of +such crimes call down the wrath of God, and do more to check the +prosperity of your district, and to ruin your prospects, than all +the difficulties and losses under which you labour?" Mr. Sievewright's +letter gives an account of this infamous transaction. + + +"WESTERN ABORIGINAL ESTABLISHMENT, +THOLOR, 26TH FEBRUARY, 1842. + +"Sir,--I have the honour to report that on the afternoon +of the 24th instant, two aboriginal natives, named Pwe-bin-gan-nai, +Calangamite, returned to this encampment, which they had left with their +families on the 22nd, and reported 'that late on the previous evening, +while they with their wives, two other females, and two children, were +asleep at a tea-tree scrub, called One-one-derang, a party of eight white +people on horseback surrounded them, dismounted, and fired upon them with +pistols; that three women and a child had been thus killed, and the other +female so severely wounded as to be unable to stand or be removed by +them;' they had saved themselves and the child, named 'Uni bicqui-ang,' +by flight, who was brought to this place upon their shoulders. + +"At daybreak yesterday I proceeded to the spot indicated, and there found +the dead bodies of three women, and a male child about three years of age; +and also found a fourth woman dangerously wounded by gunshot wounds, and +severely scorched on the limbs by the discharge of fire-arms. + +"Having proceeded to the station of the Messrs. Osbrey and Smith, distant +about 700 yards from where the bodies were found, and requested the +presence of those gentlemen as witnesses, I proceeded to view the bodies, +upon which were found the wounds as set forth in the accompanying report. + +"All knowledge of this barbarous transaction is denied by the proprietors, +overseer, and servants at the home station, so near to which the bodies +were found, nor have I as yet obtained any information which may lead to +the discovery of the perpetrators of these murders. + +"I have, etc. +(Signed) "C. W. SIEVEWRIGHT." +James Croke, Esq., +Crown Prosecutor," +etc. etc. etc. + + +Description of Gun-shot Wounds upon the bodies of three Aboriginal Women +and One Male Child found dead, and an Aboriginal Woman found wounded in a +tea-tree scrub, near the Station of Messrs. Osbrey and Smith, Portland +District, upon the 25th of February, 1842, by Assistant-Protector +Sievewright. + + +"No. 1. Recognised by the assistant-protector as +'Wooi-goning,' wife of an Aboriginal native 'Pui-bui-gannei;' one gun-shot +wound through the chest (a ball), and right thigh broken by a gun-shot +wound (a ball). + +"No. 2. Child (male); one gun-shot wound through the chest (a bullet), +left thigh lacerated by some animal. + +"No. 3. Woman big with child; one gun-shot wound through the chest +(a bullet), left side scorched. + +"No. 4. Woman; gun-shot wound through abdomen (a bullet), by right hip; +gun-shot wound, left arm broken, (a bullet.) + +"No. 5. Woman wounded; gun-shot wound in back (a ball), gun-shot through +right hand (a ball). + +"(Signed) +"C. W. SIEVEWRIGHT."] + + +[Note 48: The belief on the part of the Home authorities that such deeds +did occur, and their opinion, so many years ago, regarding them, may be +gathered from the following extract from a despatch from Lord Glenelg to +Governor Sir James Stirling, dated 23rd of July, 1835. "I perceive, with +deep concern, that collisions still exist between the colonists and the +natives. + +"It is impossible, however, to regard such conflicts without +regret and anxiety, when we recollect how fatal, in too many instances, +our colonial settlements have proved to the natives of the places where +they have been formed. + +"It will be your duty to impress upon the settlers that it is the +determination of the Government to visit any act of injustice or +violence on the natives, with the utmost severity, and that in no +case will those convicted of them, remain unpunished. Nor will it +be sufficient simply to punish the guilty, but ample compensation must be +made to the injured party, for the wrong received. You will make it +imperative upon the officers of police never to allow any injustice or +insult in regard to the natives to pass by unnoticed, as being of too +trifling a character; and they should be charged to report to you, with +punctuality, every instance of aggression or misconduct. Every neglect of +this point of duty you will mark with the highest displeasure." + +Such were the benevolent views entertained by the Government in England +towards the Aborigines ten years ago, and it might be readily proved from +many despatches of subsequent Secretaries of State to the different +Governors, that such have been their feelings since, and yet how little +has been done in ten years to give a practical effect to their good +intentions towards the natives.] + +Were other evidence necessary to substantiate this point, it would be +only requisite to refer to the tone in which the natives are so often +spoken of by the Colonial newspapers, to the fact that a large number of +colonists in New South Wales, including many wealthy landed proprietors +and magistrates, petitioned the Local Government on behalf of a party of +convicts, found guilty on the clearest testimony of having committed one +of the most wholesale, cold-blooded, and atrocious butcheries of the +Aborigines ever recorded [Note 49 at end of para.], and to the acts of the +Colonial Governments themselves, who have found it necessary, sometimes, +to prohibit fire-arms at out-stations, and have been compelled to take +away the assigned servants, or withdraw the depasturing licences of +individuals, because they have been guilty of aggression upon the +Aborigines. + +[Note 49: Seven men were hanged for this offence, on the 18th of December, +1838. In the Sydney Monitor, published on the 24th or next issue after the +occurrence, is the following paragraph:-- + +"The following conversation between two gentlemen took place in the +military barrack square, on Tuesday, just after the execution of the seven +murderers of the native blacks, and while General O'Connell was reviewing +the troops of the garrison. + +"COUNTRY GENTLEMAN.--So I find they have hanged these men. +"TOWN GENTLEMAN. --They have." +"COUNTRY GENTLEMAN.--Ah! hem, we are going on a safer game now. +"TOWN GENTLEMAN. --Safer game! how do you mean?" +"COUNTRY GENTLEMAN.--Why, we are poisoning the blacks; which is much + better, and serve them right too!" + +"We vouch for the truth of this conversation, and for the very words; +and will prove our statement, if public justice should, in our +opinion require it." + +The following letter from His Honour the Superintendent of Port Philip +shews, that even in 1843, suspicions were entertained in the colony, +that this most horrible and inhuman cruelty towards the Aborigines had +lately been practised there. + + +"Melbourne, 17th March, 1843. + +"SIR,--I have the honour to report, for his Excellency's information, +that in the month of December last, I received a letter from the Chief +Protector, enclosing a communication received from Dr. Wotton, the +gentleman in charge of the Aboriginal station at Mount Rouse, stating that +a rumour had reached him that a considerable number of Aborigines had +been poisoned at the station of Dr. Kilgour, near Port Fairy. + +"I delayed communicating this circumstance at the time, as I expected +the Chief Protector and his assistants would find it practicable to +bring the crime home to the parties accused of having perpetrated it; +but I regret to state, that every attempt to discover the guilty +parties has hitherto proved ineffectual, and that although there +may be strong grounds of suspicion that such a deed had been perpetrated, +and that certain known parties in this district were the perpetrators, +yet it seems nearly impossible to obtain any legal proof to bear on +either one point or the other. + +"I beg leave to enclose copies of two communications which I have received +from Mr. Robinson on the subject. + +"I have, etc. +"(Signed) +"C. J. LATROBE." +"The Honourable the Colonial Secretary, +etc. etc. etc." + + +Rumours of another similar occurrence existed in the settlements +north of Sydney, about the same time. To the inquiries made on the +subject, by the Government, the following letters refer. + + +"Moreton Bay, Zion's Hill, 14th January 1843. + +"Sir,--In reply to your inquiry respecting the grounds on which I made +mention in my journal, kept during a visit to the Bunga Bunga country, +of a considerable number of blacks having been poisoned in the +northern part of this district, I beg leave to state, that having +returned from Sydney in the month of March 1842, I learnt, first, +by my coadjutor, the Rev. Mr. Epper, that such a rumour was spreading, +of which I have good reason to believe also his Excellency the Governor +was informed during his stay at Moreton Bay. I learnt, secondly, +by the lay missionaries, Messrs. Nique and Rode, who returned +from an excursion to "Umpie-boang" in the first week of April, that +natives of different tribes, who were collecting from the north for a +fight, had related the same thing to them as a fact. Messrs. Nique and +Rode have made this statement also in their diary, which is laid before +our committee in Sydney. I learnt, thirdly, by the runaway Davis, when +collecting words and phrases of the northern dialect from him, previous +to my expedition to the Bunga Bunga country, that there was not the least +doubt but such a deed had been done, and moreover that the relatives of +the poisoned blacks, being in great fury, were going to revenge +themselves. Davis considered it, therefore, exceedingly dangerous for us +to proceed to the north, mentioning at the same time, that two white men +had already been killed by blacks in consequence of poisoning. I +ascertained likewise from him the number, 50 or 60. + +"When inquiring of him whether he had not reported this fact to +yourself, he replied, that both he, himself, and Bracewell, the +other runaway, whom Mr. Petrie had brought back from the Wide Bay, +had done so, and that you had stated it fully in your report to his +Excellency the Governor, respecting himself and Bracewell. + +"4. The natives who had carried our provisions up to Mr. Archer's station, +made the same statement to us, as a reason why they would not accompany +us any farther to the Bunga Bunga country. + +"When writing down, therefore, my journal, I considered it unnecessary to +make a full statement of all that had come to my knowledge since the month +of March, concerning that most horrid event, or even to relate it as +something new, as it was not only known several months since to the +respective authorities, but also as almost every one at Moreton Bay +supposed that an investigation would take place without delay. + +"I have, etc. +"(signed) "WILLIAM SCHMIDT, +"Missionary.""S. Simpson, Esq., +"Commissioner of Crown Lands, +"Eagle Farm." + + +"WOOGAROO, MORETON BAY, 6TH MAY, 1843. + +"Sir,--I have the honour to report, for the information of his Excellency, +that during my excursion to the Bunga country, I have taken every +opportunity of instituting an inquiry as to the truth of the alleged +poisoning of some Aborigines at a sheep station in the north of this +district. A report of the kind certainly exists among the two tribes I +fell in with, namely, the Dallambarah and Coccombraral tribes, but as +neither of them were present at the time, they could give me no +circumstantial information whatever on the subject. The Giggabarah +tribe, the one said to have suffered, I was unable to meet with. +Upon inquiry at the stations to the north, I could learn nothing +further than that they had been using arsenic very extensively for +the cure of the scab, in which operation sheep are occasionally +destroyed by some of the fluid getting down their throats; and as the +men employed frequently neglect to bury the carcases, it is very possible +that the Aborigines may have devoured them, particularly the entrails, +which they are very fond of, and that hence some accident of the kind +alluded to may have occurred without their knowledge. + +"I have, etc. +"(signed) S. SIMPSON, +"Commissioner of Crown Lands." + +"The Honourable E. D. Thomson, +"Colonial Secretary." + + +For the sake of humanity I would hope that such unheard of atrocities +cannot really have existed. That the bare suspicion even of such crimes +should have originated and gained currency in more than one district +of Australia, is of itself a fearful indication of the feeling +among the lowest classes in the colonies, and of the harrowing +deeds to which that might lead. + +Extract from South Australian Registe, 10th of July, 1841, after the +return of Major O'Halloran and a party of sixty-eight individuals, sent +up the Murray to try and rescue property stolen by blacks. "In the mean +time we cannot but think that the DISAPPOINTMENT SO GENERALLY +EXPRESSED, because Major O'Halloran has returned 'WITHOUT FIRING A SHOT,' +is somewhat unreasonable, seeing that in his presence the natives DID +NOTHING TO WARRANT AN EXTREME MEASURE, and that there were no means of +identifying either the robbers of Mr. Inman, or the murderers of Mr. +Langhorne's servants. It is quite clear that a legally authorised English +force could not be permitted to fire indiscriminately upon the natives AS +SOME PERSONS THINK they ought to have done, or to fire at all, save when +attacked, or under circumstances in which any white subject of the Queen +might be shot at. We KNOW that many overland parties HAVE NOT HESITATED +TO FIRE AT THE NATIVES WHEREVER THEY APPEARED; and it is possible that +the tribes now hostilely disposed may have received some provocation."] + +The following extract from a letter addressed by the Chief Protector of +the Port Phillip district, Mr. Robinson, to his Honour the Superintendent +at Melbourne, shews that officer's opinion of the feeling of the lower +class of the settlers' servants, with regard to the Aborigines in +Australia Felix. + + +"Anterior to my last expedition I had seen a large portion of this +province; I have now seen nearly the entire, and, in addition, have made +myself thoroughly acquainted with the character of its inhabitants. + +"The settlers are, for the most part, a highly respectable body of men, +many, to my knowledge, deeply commiserating the condition of the natives; +a few have been engaged in the work of their amelioration; these, +however, are but isolated instances; the majority are averse to having +the natives, and drive them from their runs. + +"Nothing could afford me greater pleasure than to see a reciprocity of +interest established between the settler and aborigine, and it would +delight me to see the settlers engaged in the great work of their +amelioration; and though on the part of the settlers, a large majority +would readily engage, I nevertheless feel persuaded that, until a better +class of peasantry be introduced, and a code of judicature suited to the +condition of the natives, its practicability, as a general principle, is +unattainable. + +"In the course of my wanderings through the distant interior, I found it +necessary, in order to arrive at a correct judgment, to observe the +relative character of both classes, i. e. the European and the Aborigine. +The difficulty on the part of the Aborigine by proper management can be +overcome; but the difficulty on the part of the depraved white man is of +far different character, and such as to require that either their place +should be supplied by a more honest and industrious peasantry, or that a +more suitable code of judicature be established, to restrain their +nefarious proceedings with reference to the aboriginal natives. + +"I found, on my last expedition, that a large majority of the white +servants employed at the stock stations in the distant interior were, for +the most part, men of depraved character; and it was with deep regret +that I observed that they were all armed; and in the estimation of some +of these characters, with whom I conversed, I found that the life of a +native was considered to be of no more value than that of a wild dog. The +settlers complained generally of the bad character of their men. The +saying is common among them, 'That the men and not we are the masters.' +The kind of treatment evinced towards the aboriginal natives in remote +parts of the interior by this class of persons, may be easily imagined; +but as I shall have occasion more fully to advert to this topic in the +report I am about to transmit to the Government, I shall defer for the +present offering further observations. + +"The bad character of the white servants is a reason assigned by many +settlers for keeping the natives from their stations. At a few +establishments, viz. Norman M'Leod's, Baillie's, Campbell's, Lenton's, +and Urquhart's, an amicable and friendly relation has been maintained for +several years; the Aborigines are employed and found useful. I visited +these stations; and the proprietors assured me the natives had never done +them any injury; the natives also spoke in high terms of these parties. +There are other settlers also who have rendered assistance in improving +the condition of the natives, and to whom I shall advert in my next +report. + +"Whether the proprietors of these establishments devote more attention, +or whether their white servants are of less nefarious character than +others, I am not prepared to say; but the facts I have stated are +incontrovertible, and are sufficient to shew the reclaimability of the +natives, when proper persons are engaged, and suitable means had recourse +to. I cannot but accede to the proposition, namely, that of holding out +inducements to all who engage in the amelioration of the aboriginal +natives. Those who have had experience, who have been tried and found +useful, ought to have such inducements held out to them as would ensure a +continuance of their appointments, the more especially as it has always +been found difficult to obtain suitable persons for this hazardous and +peculiar service." + + +The following extract from another letter, also addressed to his Honour +the Superintendent, shews the opinions and feelings of the writer, a +Magistrate of the Colony, and a Commissioner of Crown Lands, in the +Geelong district. + + +"In offering my candid opinion, I submissively beg leave to state, that +for the last three years, on all occasions, I have been a friend to the +natives; but from my general knowledge of their habits of idleness, +extreme cunning, vice, and villany, that it is out of the power of all +exertion that can be bestowed on them to do good by them; and I further +beg leave to state, that I can plainly see the general conduct of the +native growing worse, and, if possible, more useless, and daily more +daring. One and all appear to consider that no punishment awaits them. +This idea has latterly been instilled into their minds with, I should +think, considerable pains, and also that the white men should be punished +for the least offence. + +"In reply to the latter part of your letter, I beg leave to bring to your +notice that, at considerable risk, two years ago, I apprehended a native +for the murder of one of Mr. Learmonth's men, near Bunengang. He was +committed to Sydney gaol, and at the expiration of a year he was returned +to Melbourne to be liberated, and is now at large. In the case of Mr. +Thomson's, that I apprehended two, and both identified by the men who so +fortunately escaped. It is a difficult thing to apprehend natives, and +with great risk of life on both sides. On the Grange, and many parts of +the country, it would be impossible to take them; AND IN MY OPINION, the +only plan to bring them to a fit and proper state is to insist on the +gentlemen in the country to protect their property, AND TO DEAL WITH SUCH +USELESS SAVAGES ON THE SPOT." + + +Captain Grey bears testimony to similar feelings and occurrences in +Western Australia. In speaking of capturing some natives, he says, vol. +2. p. 351. "It was necessary that I should proceed with great caution, in +order not to alarm the guilty parties when they saw us approaching, in +which case, I should have had no chance of apprehending them, and I did +not intend to adopt the popular system of shooting them when they ran +away." And again, at page 356, he says, "It was better that I, an +impartial person, should see that they were properly punished for theft, +than that the Europeans should fire indiscriminately upon them, as had +lately been done, in another quarter." + +Even in South Australia, where the Colonists have generally been more +concentrated, and where it might naturally be supposed there would be +less likelihood of offenders of this kind escaping detection and +punishment, there are not wanting instances of unnecessary and +unprovoked, and sometimes of wanton injury upon the natives. In almost +all cases of this description, it is quite impracticable from the +inadmissibility of native evidence, or from some other circumstances, to +bring home conviction to the guilty. [Note 50 at end of para.] On the +other hand, where natives commit offences against Europeans, if they can +be caught, the punishment is certain and severe. Already since the +establishment of South Australia as a colony, six natives have been tried +and hung, for crimes against Europeans, and many others have been shot or +wounded, by the police and military in their attempts to capture or +prevent their escape. No European has, however, yet paid the penalties of +the law, for aggressions upon the Aborigines, though many have deserved +to do so. The difficulty consists in legally bringing home the offence, +or in refuting the absurd stories that are generally made up in +justification of it. + +[Note 50: Vide Chapter 9, of Notes on the Aborigines.] + +A single instance or two will be sufficient, in illustration of the +impunity which generally attends these acts of violence. On the 25th +January, 1843, the sheep at a station of Mr. Hughes, upon the Hutt river, +had been scattered during the night, and some of them were missing. It +was concluded the natives had been there, and taken them, as the tracks +of naked feet were said to have been found near the folds. Upon these +grounds two of Mr. Hughes' men, and one belonging to Mr. Jacobs, another +settler in the neighbourhood, took arms, and went out to search for the +natives. About a mile from the station they met with one native and his +wife, whom they asked to accompany them back to the station, promising +bread and flour for so doing. They consented to go, but were then +escorted AS PRISONERS, the two men of Mr. Hughes' guarding the male +native, and Mr. Jacobs' servant (a person named Gregory) the female. +Naturally alarmed at the predicament they were in, the man ran off, +pursued by his two guards, but escaped. The woman took another direction, +pursued by Gregory, who recaptured her, and she was said to have then +seized Gregory's gun, and to have struck at him several blows with a +heavy stick, upon which, being afraid that he would be overcome, HE SHOT +HER. Mr. Hughes, the owner of the lost sheep, came up a few moments after +the woman was shot, and heard Gregory's story concerning it, but no marks +of his receiving any blows were shewn. On the 23rd of March, he was tried +for the offence of manslaughter; there did not appear the slightest +extenuating circumstances beyond his own story, and his master giving him +a good character, and yet the jury, without retiring, returned a verdict +of Not Guilty! + +At the very next sittings of the Supreme Court Criminal Sessions, another +and somewhat analogous case appeared. The following remarks were made by +His Honour Judge Cooper, to the Grand Jury respecting it: "There was also +a case of manslaughter to be tried, and he called their attention to +this, because it did not appear in the Calendar. The person charged was +named Skelton, and as appeared from the depositions, was in custody of +some sheep, when an alarm of the rushing of the sheep being given, he +looked and saw something climbing over the fence, and subsequently +something crawling along the ground, upon which he fired off his piece, +and hit the object, which upon examination turned out to be a native. The +night was dark, and the native was brought into the hut, where he died +the next day. He could not help observing, that cases of this kind were +much more frequent than was creditable to the reputation of the Colony. +Last Sessions a man was tried and acquitted of the charge of killing a +native woman. That verdict was a very merciful one, but not so merciful, +he trusted, as to countenance the idea that the lives of the natives are +held too cheaply. The only observation that he would make upon this case +was, that it was ONE OF GREAT SUSPICION." + +[Note 51: I believe this case was not brought to trial.] + +Other cases have occurred in which some of the circumstances have come +under my own notice, and when Europeans have committed wanton aggressions +on the Aborigines, and have then made up a plausible story to account for +what had taken place, but where, from obvious circumstances, it was quite +impossible to disprove or rebut their tale, however improbable it might +be. In the Port Phillip District in 1841, Mr. Chief Protector thus writes +to the local Government. + + +"Already appalling collisions have happened between the white and +aboriginal inhabitants, and, although instances, it is possible, have +transpired when natives have been the aggressors, yet it will be found +that the largest majority originated with the Europeans. The lives of +aboriginal natives known to have been destroyed are many, and if the +testimony of natives be admissible, the amount would be great indeed; but +even in cases where the Aborigines are said to be the aggressors, who can +tell what latent provocation existed for perpetrating it? Of the numerous +cases that could be cited, the following from a recent journal of an +assistant protector, Mr. Parker, of the Lodden, will suffice to shew the +insurmountable difficulty, I may add the impossibility, of bringing the +guilty parties to justice, for in nine cases, I may say, out of ten, +where natives are concerned, the only evidence that can be adduced is +that of the Aborigines. + +"This evidence is not admissible. Indeed the want of a code, suited to +the Aborigines, is now so strongly felt, and of such vital importance to +the welfare and existence of the natives, that I earnestly trust that +this important subject may be brought under the early consideration and +notice of Her Majesty's Government. + +"The following is the extract from Mr. Parker's journal referred to: 'On +the 8th of March 1841, I proceeded to the Pyrenees to investigate the +circumstances connected with the slaughter of several Aborigines, by a +Mr. Frances. On the 9th and 10th I fell in with different parties of +natives. From the last of these I obtained some distressing statements, +as to the slaughter of the blacks; they gave me the names of seven +individuals shot by Mr. Frances within the last six months. I found, +however, no legal evidence attainable. The only persons present in the +last and most serious affair with the Aborigines, which took place in +December of last year, were Frances, a person named Downes, and a +stock-keeper in Melbourne. No other admissible evidence of the death of +these poor people can be obtained than what Frances's written statement +conveys. In that he reports that he and the person before named WENT OUT +IN CONSEQUENCE OF SEEING THE BUSH ON FIRE, AND FELL IN SUDDENLY WITH SOME +NATIVES, ON WHOM THEY FIRED AND KILLED FOUR. The natives say six were +slain, and their information on that point is more to be depended on. +Owing to the legal disabilities of the Aborigines, this case must be +added with many others which have passed without judicial notice. I +cannot, however, but wish that squatting licenses were withheld from +persons who manifest such an utter disregard of human life as Mr. +Frances, even on his own shewing, has done.' + +"And in this latter sentiment, under existing circumstances, I most +cordially agree. In Frances' case, the PERPETRATOR ADMITS his having SHOT +FOUR ABORIGINES, and for aught that is shewn to the contrary, it was AN +UNPROVOKED AGGRESSION. The natives, whose testimony Mr. Parker states, +can be relied upon, affirm that six were slain, and these within the +brief period of six months. + +"In my last expedition I visited the country of the 'Barconedeets,' the +tribe attacked by Frances; of these I found a few sojourning with the +"Portbullucs,' a people inhabiting the country near Mount Zero, the +northernmost point of the Grampians. These persons complained greatly of +the treatment they had received, and confirmed the statement made to the +sub-protector by the other natives. The following are a few of the +collisions, from authentic documents brought under the notice of this +department, that have happened between settlers and Aborigines, and are +respectfully submitted for the information of the Government. + +"CASES.--CHARLES WEDGE AND OTHERS.--Five natives killed and others +wounded at the Grampians. + +"AYLWARD AND OTHERS.--Several natives killed and others wounded at the +Grampians. In this case Aylward deposed, 'that there must have been a +great many wounded and several killed, as he saw blood upon the grass, +and in the tea-tree two or three dead bodies.' + +"MESSRS. WHYTE'S FIRST COLLISION.--William Whyte deposed that 30 natives +were present, and they were all killed but two, and one of these it is +reported died an hour after of his wounds. + +"DARLOT.--One native shot. Two natives shot near Portland Bay by the +servants of the Messrs. Henty. + +"HUTTON AND MOUNTED POLICE.--The written report of this case states, +'that the party overtook the aborigines at the junction of the +'Campaspee;' they fired, and it is stated, that to the best of the belief +of the party, five or six were killed.' In the opinion of the +sub-protector a greater number were slain. + +"MESSRS. WINTER AND OTHERS.--On this occasion five natives were killed. + +"One black shot by Frances. + +"MUNROE AND POLICE.--Two blacks shot and others wounded. + +"The following from Lloyd's deposition:--'We fired on them; I have no +doubt some were killed; there were between forty and fifty natives.' + +"BY PERSONS UNKNOWN.--A native of the Coligan tribe killed by white +persons. + +"MESSRS. WEDGE AND OTHERS.--Three natives killed and others wounded. + +"Names of Taylor and Lloyd are mentioned as having shot a black at Lake +Colac. + +"WHYTE'S SECOND COLLISION.--ALLAN'S CASE.--Two natives shot. + +"Taylor was overseer of a sheep station in the Western district, and was +notorious for killing natives. No legal evidence could be obtained +against this nefarious individual. The last transaction in which he was +concerned, was of so atrocious a nature, that he thought fit to abscond, +and he has not been heard of since. No legal evidence was attainable in +this latter case. There is no doubt the charges preferred were true, for +in the course of my inquiries on my late expedition, I found a tribe, a +section of the Jarcoorts, totally extinct, and it was affirmed by the +natives that Taylor had destroyed them. The tribes are rapidly +diminishing. The 'Coligans,' once a numerous and powerful people, +inhabiting the fertile region of Lake 'Colac,' are now reduced, all ages +and sexes, under forty, and these are still on the decay. The Jarcoorts, +inhabiting the country to the west of the great lake 'Carangermite,' once +a very numerous and powerful people, are now reduced to under sixty. But +time would fail, and I fear it would be deemed too prolix, were I to +attempt to particularise in ever so small a degree, the previous state, +condition, and declension of the original inhabitants of so extensive a +province." + + +Upon the same subject, His Honour the Superintendent of Port Phillip thus +writes:-- + + +"On this subject, I beg leave to remark that great impediments evidently +do interpose themselves in the way of instituting proper judicial inquiry +into the causes and consequences of the frequent acts of collision +between the settlers and the aboriginal natives, and into the conduct of +the settlers on such occasions. I am quite ready to lament with the +Protectors, that numerous as the cases have unfortunately been in which +the lives of the Aborigines have been taken in this district, IN NO +SINGLE INSTANCE HAS THE SETTLER BEEN BROUGHT BEFORE THE PROPER TRIBUNAL." + + +Many similar instances might be adduced to shew the little chance there +is of evidence enough being procurable, even to cause the aggressor to be +put upon his trial, still less to produce his conviction. + +Independently of the instances of wanton outrage, which sometimes are +perpetrated on the outskirts of the settled districts by the lowest and +most abandoned of our countrymen, there are occasions also, when equal +injuries are inflicted unintentionally, from inexperience or +indiscretion, on the part of those whose duty it is to protect rather +than destroy, when the innocent have been punished instead of the +guilty [Note 52 at end of para.], and thus the very efforts made to +preserve peace and good order, have inadvertently become the means of +subverting them. + +[Note 52: Upon collisions of this character, Lord John Russell remarks in +his despatch, 21st December, 1839, to Sir G. Gipps: "In the case now +before me the object of capturing offenders was entirely lost sight of, +and shots were fired at men who were apparently only guilty of jumping +into the water to escape from an armed pursuit. I am, however, happy to +acknowledge that you appear to have made every practicable exertion for +the prevention of similar calamities in future, and I approve the +measures adopted by you for that purpose. You cannot overrate the +solicitude of Her Majesty's Government on the subject of the Aborigines +of New Holland. It is impossible to contemplate the condition and the +prospects of that unfortunate race without the deepest commiseration. I +am well aware of the many difficulties which oppose themselves to the +effectual protection of these people, and especially of those which must +originate from the exasperation of the settlers, on account of +aggressions on their property, which are not the less irritating, because +they are nothing else than the natural results of the pernicious examples +held out to the Aborigines, and of the many wrongs of which they have +been the victims. Still it is impossible that the Government should +forget that the original aggression was our own; and that we have never +yet performed the sacred duty of making any systematic or considerable +attempt to impart to the former occupiers of New South Wales, the +blessings of Christianity, or the knowledge of the arts and advantages of +civilized life."] + +Several very lamentable instances of this kind, have occurred in Port +Lincoln. The following is one among others. Soon after the murder of +Messrs. Biddle and Brown, a party of soldiers was sent over to try and +capture the aggressors. In one of their attempts a native guide was +procured from the Eastern tribe, who promised to conduct them to where +the murderers were. The party consisting of the military and their +officer, the police, a settler, and the missionary, in all twelve or +fourteen persons, set off towards Coffin's Bay, following as they +supposed upon the track of the murders. Upon reaching the coast some +natives were seen fishing in the water, and the party was at once spread +out in a kind of semicircle, among the scrub, to close upon and capture +them; the officer, missionary, and guide, being stationed near the +centre. As the party advanced nearer, the guide saw that he was mistaken +in the group before him, and that they were not the guilty parties, but +friends. The officer called out not to fire, but unfortunately from the +distance the men were at, and the scrubby nature of the country, he was +not heard or attended to. A shot was fired, one of the natives sprung up +convulsively in the water, walked on shore and fell down, exclaiming +whilst dying, "me Kopler, me good man," and such indeed it proved. He was +one of a friendly tribe, and a particular protege of the missionary's, +having taken the name of Kopler from his German servant who was so +called. + +The other natives at once came forward to their dying friend, scornfully +motioning away his murderers, fearless alike of the foes around them, and +regardless of their ill-timed attempts to explain the fatal mistake. Will +it be credited, that at such a scene as this the soldiers were indulging +in coarse remarks, or brutal jests, upon the melancholy catastrophe; and +comparing the last convulsive spring of the dying man to a salmon leaping +in the water. Yet this I was assured was the case by the Government +Resident at Port Lincoln, from when I received this account. + +Another melancholy and unfortunate case of the same nature occurred at +Port Lincoln, on the 11th of April, 1844, where a native was shot by a +policeman, for attempting to escape from custody, when taken in charge on +suspicion of being implicated in robbing a stranded vessel. An +investigation was made into this case by the Commissioner of Police, when +it was stated in the depositions, that attempts at rescue were made by +the other natives. Upon these grounds, I believe, it was considered that +the policeman was justified in what he did. + +The following extract relating to this subject, is from a letter +addressed to a gentleman in Adelaide, by the Rev. C. Schurmann, one of +the German Missionaries, who has for some years past been stationed among +the Port Lincoln natives, and is intimately acquainted with their +language. + +[Note 53: Without adopting the tone of this letter, and which in some +respects I cannot approve of, I believe the writer to be deeply interested +in the welfare of the Aborigines, and strongly impressed with a conviction +of the evils and injuries to which they are subject from our anomalous +position with regard to them. I have quoted it, therefore, not for the +purpose of casting imputations on the Government, but to shew how +powerless they are, and how frequently, under the existing system in +force with respect to the Aborigines, those very measures which were +conceived and entered upon with the best intentions, produce in their +result the most unmitigated evils.] + + +"You will probably recollect, that some time ago (I think it was in the +month of May) the Adelaide newspapers contained a short notice of a Port +Lincoln native having been shot by the police in self-defence, and a +letter in the 'Observer,' mentioned another as being shot by Mr.----, but +as the charitable correspondent added, 'Unfortunately only in the arm, +instead of through the body.' From these statements one would infer that +the parties concerned in these transactions were without blame, being +perfectly justified--the one to protect his life, and the other his +property. However, since my return to Port Lincoln, I have learned that +both tales run very differently when told according to truth. I address +myself, therefore, to you, with the true facts of the transactions, as I +have learned them. partly from the settlers themselves, partly from the +natives. My motive for so doing is to case my own mind, and to gratify +the interest which I know you take in the Aborigines of this country. + +"The man shot by the police was named Padlalta, and was of so mild and +inoffensive a disposition, that he was generally noticed by the settlers +on that very account, several of whom I have heard say since, it was a +pity that some other native had not been hit in his stead. The same man +was captured last year by Major O'llalloran's party, but was set at +liberty as soon as I came up and testified his innocence, for which the +poor fellow kissed my hand near a dozen times. + +"The day before he met his death he was as usual in the town, doing +little jobs for the inhabitants, to get bread or other food. On the +evening when he was killed, he had encamped with about half a dozen other +natives on the northern side of Happy Valley, a short mile from the town. +The police who were sent by the Government Resident to see what number of +natives were at the camp state, that while searching the man's wallet, he +seized hold of one gun, and when the other policeman came up to wrest it +from him, he the native grasped the other gun too. In the scuffle that +ensued, one of the guns went off, when the other natives who had fled +returned and presented their spears. They then shot the native who held +the gun. + +"Now this statement is a very strange one, when it is considered that the +native was a very spare and weak man, so that either of the police ought +to have been able to keep him at arm's length; but to say that he seized +both their guns is beyond all credibility. The natives were sitting down +when the police arrived. How they could therefore find a wallet upon the +murdered man, I cannot conceive; since the natives never have their +wallets slung, except when moving; and it certainly is not probable, that +the man, in spite of the fright he is admitted to have been in, should +have thought of taking up his wallet. + +"The wallet is said to have contained some sovereigns, taken from the +cutter Kate, which was wrecked some time previous to this affair, about +forty miles up the coast, and to have been one of those marked by the +police, at a native camp near the wreck from which the natives had been +scared away, leaving all their things behind. But if the murdered native +had taken the sovereigns, why were they not then in his wallet, or why +was the wallet not examined the day before when he was in town? +[Note 54 at end of para.] I think that there is little doubt that the +police found no wallet at all upon the native, and that they coined away +one of those found at the camp upon him, with a view to incriminate him." + +[Note 54: There cannot be a greater act of injustice towards the natives +than that of applying the English law to them with respect to stolen +property. Any one who knows any thing of their habits, and the custom +prevalent amongst them, of giving any European clothing, or other articles +they may acquire, from one to another, must be fully aware how little the +fact of their being found in possession of stolen property is just +evidence against them. Articles such as I have mentioned, often pass, in a +very short time, through the hands of three or four individuals, and +perhaps even through as many tribes.] + +"Another native, Charley, who was present when the said affair took +place, tells me, that the police sneaked upon, and fired at them, while +sitting round the fire; [Note 55 at end of para.] that he jumped up, and +endeavoured to make himself known, as a friendly native, by saying, +"Yarri (that is the name the natives have given to one of the police), +Yarri, I Charley, I Charley,"--but that the effect produced had been the +pointing of a gun at him, when of course he ran away. That any of the +natives returned, and poised their spears, he firmly denies; but accounts +for the murder, by supposing that the dead man made resistance, and +offered to spear his assailants. He moreover says, that Padlalta would not +have died in consequence of the first shot, but that the police fired +repeatedly, which agrees with the settlers, who say they heard three +shots. When the bloody deed had been committed (a ball had passed right +through his body), the cruel perpetrators ran home, leaving the murdered +man helpless." + +[Note 55: There must, I think, be some mistake here in the phrascology. +I cannot think any of the police would fire upon a small party of friendly +natives whilst unresisting. The probability is, that they surrounded the +natives to make prisoners, and fired upon being resisted. This must +generally occur if the police have positive orders to make captures. +Natives, not very much in contact with Europeans, will almost always +resist an attempt to make prisoners of them, or will try to escape. Very +many have, at various times, met their death under such circumstances; +and too often it has occurred, that the innocent have been the suffering +parties. This shews the absurdity of applying European customs and laws +to a people situated as the Australian natives are. It shews, too, the +necessity of altering our present system and policy towards them, to one +that will exercise sufficient influence over them to induce them to give +up offenders themselves. I believe such a system may be devised.--Vide +Chapter IX.] + +"Some time after, a party of three settlers went to the spot, one of whom +he recognized, and claimed his acquaintance, and perhaps assistance, by +mentioning the party's Christian name; but, alas! no good Samaritan was +found amongst these three; they all passed by on the other side, without +alleviating his pain, moistening his parched lips, warming his shivering +limbs, or aiding him in any way whatever. There he lay a whole cold and +long winter night, without a fire to warm him, or a soul to talk to him. +Next morning he was found still alive, but died on the way into town, +where he was buried in the jail yard, like a condemned felon. + +"What awful and melancholy reflections crowd upon one's mind in thinking +on this transaction. But what conclusians must a poor people, whom a +Christian and civilized nation calls savages, arrive at, with such facts +before them. + +"The other native, wounded by Mr.--in the arm, was doubtless of the party +who attacked the flock; but it must have been some hours after that he +was shot, for the shepherd had to come home with the flock to inform him +of the occurrence, and then search and pursuit had to be made, during +which he was overtaken. He is a stupid idiotic sort of man, so that the +natives have not deemed him worthy of receiving the honours of their +ceremonies, and still call him a boy, or youth, although he is an oldish +man. + +"On another occasion, when an uninhabited hut, with some wheat in it, had +been broken into by some unknown natives, a party went in search of the +offenders. It was night when they came on a camp, on the opposite side of +the lake to where the hut stands; the natives, acting upon the first +impulse, and warned by frequent examples, ran away, when two of the party +snapped their pieces, but providentially both guns missed fire. The +natives, however, soon took confidence, and returned, when it was found +that two of the most orderly and useful men would have been shot if the +guns had gone off. The party took upon themselves to make one of them +prisoner, but of course did not venture to bring him before the +magistrate. + +"These facts incontestably prove, that, notwithstanding the Aborigines +are called British subjects, and in spite of the so-called protection +system, there is no shadow of protection for them, while they are +debarred from the first and most important of all liberties, namely, that +of being heard in a Court of civil Justice. + +"Several instances have occurred during my residence in this district, in +which natives have been arraigned before the administrators of the law, +although I was morally convinced of their innocence; in other cases, they +have sought redress through me, for wanton attacks on their person and +lives, without being listened to. + +"Only a few weeks ago a native was very nearly being taken up, on the +charge of having thrown a spear at Mr. Smith's shepherd, without, +however, any felonious intent, the distance being too great. This +circumstance saved the man, or else he would, no doubt, have been tried +and found guilty on the shepherd's evidence, who would not allow that he +could be mistaken in the individual, although the accused native came +boldly into town and court (a circumstance that has never before occurred +since I have known these natives), although he was an intimate friend of +the shepherd and his wife; and although all the other natives could prove +where he had been at the time of the attack on the flock, and state who +were the guilty parties. + +"For those who have had an opportunity of observing the Aborigines in +their original state, it is not very difficult to distinguish the guilty +from the innocent, for they are a simple-minded race, little skilled in +the arts of dissimulation. + +"It is bad enough that a great part of the colonists are inimical to the +natives; it is worse that the law, as it stands at present, does not +extend its protection to them; but it is too bad when the press lends its +influence to their destruction. Such, however, is undoubtedly the case. +When Messrs. Biddle and Brown were murdered, the newspapers entertained +their readers week after week with the details of the bloody massacre, +heaping a profusion of vile epithets upon the perpetrators. But of the +slaughter by the soldiers, (who killed no less than four innocent +natives, while they captured not one guilty party), among the tribes who +had had nothing to do with the murders--of the treachery of attacking in +the darkness of the night, a tribe who had the day before been hunting +kangaroo with their informers, when one of the former guides to the +magistrates' pursuing party was killed amongst others; of the wanton +outrage on the mutilated body of one of the victims;--of these things the +press was as silent as the grave." + + +Without attempting to enlarge more fully upon the subjects entered upon +in the preceding pages, I trust that I have sufficiently shewn that the +character of the Australian natives has been greatly misrepresented and +maligned, that they are not naturally more irreclaimably vicious, +revengeful, or treacherous than other nations, but on the contrary, that +their position with regard to Europeans, places them under so many +disadvantages, subjects them to so many injuries, irritates them with so +many annoyances, and tempts them with so many provocations, that it is a +matter of surprise, not that they sometimes are guilty of crime, but that +they commit it so rarely. + +If I have in the least degree succeeded in establishing that such is the +case, it must be evident that it is incumbent upon us not only to make +allowances when pronouncing an opinion on the character or the crimes of +the Aborigines; but what is of far greater and more vital importance, as +far as they are concerned, to endeavour to revise and improve such parts +of our system and policy towards them as are defective, and by better +adapting these to the peculiar circumstances of this people, at once +place them upon juster and more equal terms, and thus excite a reasonable +hope that some eventual amelioration may be produced, both in their moral +and physical condition. + +[Note 56: "We say distinctly and deliberately that nothing comparatively +has yet been done--that the natives have hitherto acquired nothing of +European civilization, but European vices and diseases, and that the +speedy extinction of the whole race is inevitable, save by the +introduction of means for their civilization on a scale much more +comprehensive and effectual than any yet adopted."--Leading Article in +South Australian Register, 1st August, 1840.] + +I shall now proceed to give an account of the appearance, habits, mode of +life, means of subsistance, social relations, government, ceremonies, +superstitions, numbers, languages, etc. etc. of the natives of Australia, +so as to afford some insight into the character and circumstances of this +peculiar race, to exhibit the means hitherto adopted for, and the +progress made in attempting, their civilization, and to shew the effects +produced upon them by a contact with Europeans. + + + + +Chapter II. + + + +PHYSICAL APPEARANCE--DRESS--CHARACTER--HABITS OF LIFE--MEETINGS OF +TRIBES--WARS--DANCES--SONGS. + + +The Aborigines of Australia, with whom Europeans have come in contact, +present a striking similarity to each other in physical appearance and +structure; and also in their general character, habits, and pursuits. Any +difference that is found to exist is only the consequence of local +circumstances or influences, and such as might naturally be expected to +be met with among a people spread over such an immense extent of country. +Compared with other aboriginal races, scattered over the face of the +globe, the New Hollander appears to stand alone. + +The male is well built and muscular, averaging from five to six feet in +height, with proportionate upper and lower extremities. The anterior +lobes of the brain are fairly developed, so as to give a facial angle, +far from being one of the most acute to be found amongst the black races. +The eyes are sunk, the nose is flattened, and the mouth wide. The lips +are rather thick, and the teeth generally very perfect and beautiful, +though the dental arrangement is sometimes singular, as no difference +exists in many between the incisor and canine teeth. The neck is short, +and sometimes thick, and the heel resembles that of Europeans. The ankles +and wrists are frequently small, as are also the hands and feet. The +latter are well formed and expanded, but the calves of the legs are +generally deficient. Some of the natives in the upper districts of the +Murray, are, however, well formed in this respect. In a few instances, +natives attain to a considerable corpulency. The men have fine broad and +deep chests, indicating great bodily strength, and are remarkably erect +and upright in their carriage, with much natural grace and dignity of +demeanour. The eye is generally large, black, and expressive, with the +eye-lashes long. + +When met with for the first time in his native wilds there is frequently +a fearless intrepidity of manner, an ingenuous openness of look, and a +propriety of behaviour about the aboriginal inhabitant of Australia, +which makes his appearance peculiarly prepossessing. + +In the female the average height is about five feet, or perhaps a little +under. The anterior part of the brain is more limited than in the male; +the apex of the head is carried further back; the facial angle is more +acute; and the extremities are more attenuated. The latter circumstance +may probably be accounted for from the fact, that the females have to +endure, from a very early age, a great degree of hardship, privation, and +ill-treatment. Like most other savages the Australian looks upon his wife +as a slave. To her belongs the duty of collecting and preparing the daily +food, of making the camp or hut for the night, of gathering and bringing +in firewood, and of procuring water. She must also attend to the +children; and in travelling carry all the moveable property and +frequently the weapons of her husband. In wet weather she attends to all +the outside work, whilst her lord and master is snugly seated at the +fire. If there is a scarcity of food she has to endure the pangs of +hunger, often, perhaps, in addition to ill-treatment or abuse. No wonder, +then, that the females, and especially the younger ones, (for it is then +they are exposed to the greatest hardships,) are not so fully or so +roundly developed in person as the men. Yet under all these disadvantages +this deficiency does not always exist. Occasionally, though rarely, I +have met with females in the bloom of youth, whose well-proportioned +limbs and symmetry of figure might have formed a model for the sculptor's +chisel. In personal appearance the females are, except in early youth, +very far inferior to the men. When young, however, they are not +uninteresting. The jet-black eyes, shaded by their long, dark lashes, and +the delicate and scarcely-formed features of incipient womanhood give a +soft and pleasing expression to a countenance that might often be called +good-looking--occasionally even pretty. + +The colour of the skin, both in the male and female, is generally black, +or very darkly tinged. The hair is either straight or curly, but never +approaching to the woolliness of the negro. It is usually worn short by +both sexes, and is variously ornamented at different periods of life. +Sometimes it is smeared with red ochre and grease; at other times adorned +with tufts of feathers, the tail of the native dog, kangaroo teeth, and +bandages or nets of different kinds. + +[Note 57: The same fondness for red paint, ornaments of skins, tufts of +feathers, etc., is noticed by Catlin as prevalent among the American +Indians, and by Dieffenbach as existing among the New Zealanders.] + +When the head of the native is washed clean, and purified from the odour +of the filthy pigment with which it is bedaubed, the crop of hair is very +abundant, and the appearance of it beautiful, being a silken, glossy, and +curly black. Great pains are, however, used to destroy or mar this +striking ornament of nature. + +Without the slightest pride of appearance, so far as neatness or +cleanliness is concerned, the natives are yet very vain of their own rude +decorations, which are all worn for EFFECT. A few feathers or teeth, a +belt or band, a necklace made of the hollow stem of some plant, with a +few coarse daubs of red or white paint, and a smearing of grease, +complete the toilette of the boudoir or the ball-room. Like the scenery +of a panorama, they are then seen to most advantage at a distance; for if +approached too closely, they forcibly remind us of the truth of the +expression of the poet, that "nature unadorned is adorned the most." + +The body dress is simple; consisting of the skins of the opossum, the +kangaroo, or the wallabie, when they can be procured. A single garment +only is used, made in the form of an oblong cloak, or coverlet; by the +skins being stretched out and dried in the sun, and then sewn together +with the sinews of the emu, etc. The size of the cloak varies according to +the industry of the maker, or the season of the year. The largest sized +ones are about six feet square, but the natives frequently content +themselves with one not half this size, and in many cases are without it +altogether. The cloak is worn with the fur side outwards, and is thrown +over the back and left shoulder, and pinned on in front with a little +wooden peg; the open part is opposite the right side, so as to leave the +right arm and shoulder quite unconfined, in the male; the female throws +it over the back and left shoulder, and brings it round under the right +arm-pit, and when tied in front by a string passing round the cloak and +the back, a pouch is formed behind, in which the child is always +carried. [Note 58 at end of para.] In either if the skin be a handsome +one, the dress is very pretty and becoming. + +[Note 58: A similar custom prevails among the women of the American +Indians.--CATLIN. vol. ii. p. 132.] + +On the sea coast, where the country is barren, and the skins of animals +cannot readily be procured, sea-weed or rushes are manufactured into +garments, with considerable ingenuity. In all cases the garments worn by +day constitute the only covering at night, as the luxury of variety in +dress is not known to, or appreciated by, the Aborigines. + +No covering is worn upon the head, although they are continually exposed +to the rays of an almost tropical sun. In extreme seasons of heat, and +'when they are travelling, they sometimes gather a few green bunches or +wet weeds and place upon their heads; but this does not frequently occur. + +The character of the Australian natives is frank, open, and confiding. In +a short intercourse they are easily made friends, and when such terms are +once established, they associate with strangers with a freedom and +fearlessness, that would give little countenance to the impression so +generally entertained of their treachery. On many occasions where I have +met these wanderers in the wild, far removed from the abodes of +civilization, and when I have been accompanied only by a single native +boy, I have been received by them in the kindest and most friendly +manner, had presents made to me of fish, kangaroo, or fruit, had them +accompany me for miles to point out where water was to be procured, and +been assisted by them in getting at it, if from the nature of the soil +and my own inexperience. I had any difficulty in doing so myself. + +I have ever found them of a lively, cheerful disposition [Note 59 at end +of para.], patiently putting up with inconveniences and privations, and +never losing that natural good temper which so strongly characterizes +them. On the occasion of my second visit from Moorunde, to the Rufus +natives in 1841, when I had so far overcome the ill-feelings and dread, +engendered by the transactions in that quarter, in 1840, as to induce +a large body of them to accompany me back to the station, they had to +walk a distance of 150 miles, making daily the same stages that the +horses did, and unprovided with any food but what they could procure +along the road as they passed, and this from the rapidity with which +they had to travel, and the distance they had to go in a day, was +necessarily limited in quantity, and very far from sufficient to +appease even the cravings of hunger, yet tired, foot-sore, and hungry +as they were, and in company with strangers, whose countrymen had slain +them in scores, but a few months before, they were always merry at +their camps at nights, and kept singing, laughing, and joking, to a +late hour. + +[Note 59: Such appears usually to be the characteristic of Nature's +children, than whom no race appears more thoroughly to enjoy life.--Vide +character of the American Indians, by Catlin, vol. 1. p. 84.] + +On falling in with them in larger numbers, when I have been travelling in +the interior with my party, I have still found the same disposition to +meet me on terms of amity and kindness. Nor can a more interesting sight +well be imagined, than that of a hundred or two hundred natives advancing +in line to meet you, unarmed, shouting and waving green boughs in both +hands, men, women, and children, the old and the young, all joining in +expressing their good feelings and pacific intentions. On such occasions +I have been often astonished at the facility with which large bodies, +have by a little kindness and forbearance been managed, and kept from +being troublesome or annoying, by a party of only six or seven Europeans. +I have occasionally had upwards of 150 natives sitting in a long line, +where I placed them, and as orderly and obedient almost as a file of +soldiers. + +At other times, when riding with only a native boy over the plains of the +interior, I have seen the blue smoke of the native fires, curling up +through the distant line of trees, which marked some yet unvisited +watercourse, and upon making towards it, have come suddenly upon a party +encamped in the hollow, beneath the banks upon which I stood. Here I have +remained, observing them for a few moments, unseen and unthought of. A +single call would arouse their attention, and as they looked up, would +draw from them a wild exclamation of dismay, accompanied by a look of +indescribable horror and affright, at beholding the strange, and to them +incomprehensible beings who stood before them. Weapons would hastily be +seized, baggage gathered up, and the party so lately buried in repose and +security, would at once be ready either to fight or to evacuate their +camps, as circumstances might seem to render most expedient. A few +friendly gestures and a peaceable demeanour would however soon dissipate +their terror, and in a few moments their weapons would be thrown aside, +and both invaders and invaded be upon intimate and confiding terms. + +I have always found the natives ready to barter their nets, weapons, or +other implements, for European articles, and sometimes they will give +them unsolicited, and without any equivalent; amongst themselves they +constantly do this. + +In their intercourse with each other, natives of different tribes are +exceedingly punctilious and polite, the most endearing epithets are +passed between those who never met before; almost every thing that is +said is prefaced by the appellation of father, son, brother, mother, +sister, or some other similar term, corresponding to that degree of +relationship which would have been most in accordance with their relative +ages and circumstances. In many instances, too, these titles are even +accompanied by the still more insinuating addition of "dear," to say +nothing of the hugs and embraces which they mutually give and receive. + +The natives are very fond of the children they rear, and often play with, +and fondle them; but husbands rarely shew much affection for their wives. +After a long absence, I have seen natives, upon their return, go to their +camp, exhibiting the most stoical indifference, never take the least +notice of their wives, but sit down, and act, and look, as if they had +never been out of the encampment; in fact, if any thing, they are more +taciturn and reserved than usual, and some little time elapses before +they enter into conversation with freedom, or in their ordinary manner. + +[Note 60: For the existence of similar customs amongst the American +Indians, vide Catlin, vol. i. p. 56.] + +Upon meeting children after a long absence, I have seen parents "fall +upon their necks, and weep" bitterly. It is a mistaken idea, as well as +an unjust one, that supposes the natives to be without sensibility of +feeling. It may often be repressed from pride or policy, but it will +sometimes break forth uncontrolled, and reveal, that the best and genuine +feelings of the heart are participated in by savage in common with +civilized man. The following is an instance in point:--A fine intelligent +young boy, was, by his father's consent, living with me at the Murray for +many weeks; but upon the old man's going into Adelaide, he took his son +away to accompany him. Whilst there, the boy died, and for nearly a year +I never saw any thing more of the father, although he occasionally had +been within a few miles of my neighbourhood. One day, however, I was out +shooting about three miles from home, and accidentally fell in with him. +Upon seeing me he immediately burst into tears, and was unable to speak. +It was the first time he had met me since his son's death, and my +presence forcibly reminded him of his loss. The same circumstance +occurred when he accompanied me to the house, where every thing he saw +recalled the memory of his child. + +Innate propriety of behaviour is also frequently exhibited by the +Aborigines in their natural state, in the modest unassuming manner in +which they take their positions to observe what is going on, and in a +total absence of any thing that is rude or offensive. It is true that the +reverse of this is also often to be met with; but I think it will usually +be found that it is among natives who have before been in contact with +Europeans, or where familiarities have been used with them first, or an +injudicious system of treatment has been adopted towards them. + +DELICACY of feeling is not often laid to the charge of the Aborigines, +and yet I was witness to a singular instance of it at King George's +Sound. I was looking one evening at the natives dancing, and who were, as +they always are on these occasions, in a state of complete nudity. In the +midst of the performance, one of the natives standing by a spectator, +mentioned that a white woman was passing up the road; and although this +was some little distance away, and the night was tolerably dark, they all +with one accord crossed over to the bushes where their cloaks were, put +them on, and resumed their amusement. + +It has been said, and is generally believed, that the natives are not +courageous. There could not be a greater mistake, at least as far as they +are themselves concerned, nor do I hold it to be any proof that they are +cowards, because they dread or give way before Europeans and their +fire-arms. So unequal a match is no criterion of bravery, and yet even +thus, among natives, who were labouring under the feelings, naturally +produced by seeing a race they were unacquainted with, and weapons that +dealt death as if by magic, I have seen many instances of an open manly +intrepidity of manner and bearing, and a proud unquailing glance of eye, +which instinctively stamped upon my mind the conviction that the +individuals before me were very brave men. + +In travelling about from one place to another, I have always made it a +point, if possible, to be accompanied by one or more natives, and I have +often found great advantage from it. Attached to an exploring party they +are frequently invaluable, as their perceptive powers are very great, and +enable them both to see and hear anything at a much greater distance than +a European. In tracking stray animals, and keeping on indistinct paths, +they display a degree of perseverance and skill that is really wonderful. +They are useful also in cutting bark canoes to cross a river, should such +impede the progress of the party, and in diving for anything that may be +lost in the water, etc. etc. The Aborigines generally, and almost always +those living near large bodies of water, are admirable swimmers and +divers, and are almost as much at home in the water as on dry land. I +have known them even saw a small log or root at the bottom of a deep +river. In a locality, however, which is badly watered, it sometimes +happens that they cannot swim. At Meerkap, in Western Australia, while +crossing with some friends, from the Sound to Swan River, we met with +some who were in this predicament, and who seemed a good deal astonished +at our venturing into the small ponds at that place. I have been told +that the natives at the Sound could not swim before that settlement was +occupied by Europeans--this seems hardly probable, however, upon the +sea-coast; at all events, be this as it may, they all swim now. + +In habit they are truly nomadic, seldom remaining many weeks in one +locality, and frequently not many days. The number travelling together +depends, in a great measure, upon the period of the year, and the +description of food that may be in season. If there is any particular +variety more abundant than another, or procurable only in certain +localities, the whole tribe generally congregate to partake of it. Should +this not be the case, then they are probably scattered over their +district in detached groups, or separate families. + +At certain seasons of the year, usually in the spring or summer, when +food is most abundant, several tribes meet together in each other's +territory for the purpose of festivity or war, or to barter and exchange +such food, clothing, implements, weapons, or other commodities as they +respectively possess; or to assist in the initiatory ceremonies by which +young persons enter into the different grades of distinction amongst +them. The manner and formalities of meeting depend upon the cause for +which they assemble. If the tribes have been long apart, many deaths may +have occurred in the interim; and as the natives do not often admit that +the young or the strong can die from natural causes, they ascribe the +event to the agency of sorcery, employed by individuals of neighbouring +tribes. This must of course be expiated in some way when they meet, but +the satisfaction required is regulated by the desire of the injured tribe +to preserve amicable relations with the other, or the reverse. + +The following is an account of a meeting which I witnessed, between the +natives of Moorunde (comprising portions of several of the neighbouring +tribes) and the Nar-wij-jerook, or Lake Bonney tribe, accompanied also by +many of their friends. This meeting had been pre-arranged, as meetings of +large bodies of natives never take place accidentally, for even when a +distant tribe approaches the territory of another unexpectedly, +messengers are always sent on in advance, to give the necessary warning. +The object of the meeting in question was to perform the initiatory +ceremonies upon a number of young men belonging to both of the tribes. In +the Murray district, when one tribe desires another to come from a +distance to perform these ceremonies, young men are sent off with +messages of invitation, carrying with them as their credentials, long +narrow news, made of string manufactured from the rush. These nets are +left with the tribe they are sent to, and brought back again when the +invitation is responded to. + +Notice having been given on the previous evening to the Moorunde natives +of the approach of the Nar-wij-jerook tribe, they assembled at an early +hour after sunrise, in as clear and open a place as they could find. Here +they sat down in a long row to await the coming of their friends. The men +were painted, and carried their weapons, as if for war. The women and +children were in detached groups, a little behind them, or on one side, +whilst the young men, on whom the ceremonies were to be performed, sat +shivering with cold and apprehension in a row to the rear of the men, +perfectly naked, smeared over from head to foot with grease and +red-ochre, and without weapons. The Nar-wij-jerook tribe was now seen +approaching. The men were in a body, armed and painted, and the women and +children accompanying them a little on one side. They occasionally +halted, and entered into consultation, and then, slackening their pace, +gradually advanced until within a hundred yards of the Moorunde tribe. +Here the men came to a full stop, whilst several of the women singled out +from the rest, and marched into the space between the two parties, having +their heads coated over with lime, and raising a loud and melancholy +wail, until they came to a spot about equi-distant from both, when they +threw down their cloaks with violence, and the bags which they carried on +their backs, and which contained all their worldly effects. The bags were +then opened, and pieces of glass and shells taken out, with which they +lacerated their thighs, backs, and breasts, in a most frightful manner, +whilst the blood kept pouring out of the wounds in streams; and in this +plight, continuing their wild and piercing lamentations, they moved up +towards the Moorunde tribe, who sat silently and immoveably in the place +at first occupied. One of the women then went up to a strange native, who +was on a visit to the Moorunde tribe and who stood neutral in the affair +of the meeting, and by violent language and frantic gesticulations +endeavoured to incite him to revenge the death of some relation or +friend. But he could not be induced to lift his spear against the people +amongst whom he was sojourning. After some time had been spent in +mourning, the women took up their bundles again, and retiring, placed +themselves in the rear of their own party. An elderly man then advanced, +and after a short colloquy with the seated tribe, went back, and beckoned +his own people to come forward, which they did slowly and in good order, +exhibiting in front three uplifted spears, to which were attached the +little nets left with them by the envoys of the opposite tribe, and which +were the emblems of the duty they had come to perform, after the ordinary +expiations had been accomplished. + +In advancing, the Nar-wij-jerooks again commenced the death wail, and one +of the men, who had probably sustained the greatest loss since the tribes +had last met, occasionally in alternations of anger and sorrow addressed +his own people. When near the Moorunde tribe a few words were addressed +to them, and they at once rose simultaneously, with a suppressed shout. +The opposite party then raised their spears, and closing upon the line of +the other tribe, speared about fifteen or sixteen of them in the left +arm, a little below the shoulder. This is the generally understood order +of revenge; for the persons who were to receive the wounds, as soon as +they saw the weapons of their assailants poised, at once put out the left +foot, to steady themselves, and presented the left shoulder for the blow, +frequently uttering the word "Leipa" (spear), as the others appeared to +hesitate. + +Whilst this was going on, the influential men of each tribe were +violently talking to each other, and apparently accusing one another of +being accessory to the death of some of their people. Disclaimers passed +on each side, and the blame was imputed to other and more distant tribes. +The manes of the dead having been appeased, the honour of each party was +left unsullied, and the Nar-wij-jerooks retired about a hundred yards, +and sat down, ready to enter upon the ceremonies of the day, which will +be described in another place. [Note 61: Chapter V.] + +If the meeting of the tribes be for the purpose of war, a favourable +situation is selected by one of the parties, and notice is sent to the +other, who then proceed to the place of meeting, where both draw out +their forces in opposing parallel lines. Day-break, or nearly about +sunset in the evening, are the times preferred for these engagements, as +the softened light at those hours does not so much affect the eyesight, +and the spears are more easily seen and avoided. Both parties are fully +armed with spears, shields, and other weapons, and the fight sometimes +lasts for three or four hours, during which scarcely a word is spoken, +and but little noise of any kind is heard, excepting a shrill cry now and +then, when some one is wounded or has a narrow escape. Many are injured +generally on both sides, and some severely so; but it rarely happens that +more than one or two are killed, though hundreds may have been engaged. + +The fights are sometimes witnessed by men who are not concerned in them, +by the women and the children. The presence of the females may be +supposed probably to inspire the belligerents with courage and incite +them to deeds of daring. + +The most dangerous and fatal affrays in which the natives engage are +those which occur suddenly amongst tribes who have been encamped near one +another on amicable terms, and between whom some cause of difference has +arisen, probably in relation to their females, or some recent death, +which it is imagined the sorcerers have been instrumental in producing. +In the former case a kind of melee sometimes takes place at night, when +fire-brands are thrown about, spears launched, and bwirris [Note 62 at end +of para.] bran-dished in indescribable confusion. In the latter case the +affray usually occurs immediately after the body is buried, and is more of +a hand-to-hand fight, in which bwirris are used rather than spears, and +in which tremendous blows are struck and frightful wounds inflicted. + +[Note 62: A short, heavy, wooden stick, with a knob at one end.] + +In wars males are always obliged to join their relatives by blood and +their own tribe. Women frequently excite the men to engage in these +affrays to revenge injuries or deaths, and sometimes they assist +themselves by carrying spears or other weapons for their husbands. I am +not aware that women or children are ever butchered after a battle is +over, and I believe such is never the case. Single camps are sometimes +treacherously surprised when the parties are asleep, and the males +barbarously killed in cold blood. This generally takes place just before +the morning dawns, when the native is most drowsy, and least likely to +give his attention to any thing he might hear. In these cases the attack +is generally made under the belief that the individual is a desperate +sorcerer, and has worked innumerable mischiefs to their tribe. In their +attacks upon European parties I believe the natives generally advance in +a line or crescent, beating their weapons together, throwing dust in the +air, spitting, biting their beards, or using some other similar act of +defiance and hostility. I have never witnessed any such collision myself, +but am told that the attack is always accompanied by that peculiar savage +sound produced by the suppressed guttural shout of many voices in unison, +which they use in conflicts amongst themselves, and which is continued to +the moment of collision, and renewed in triumph whenever a weapon strikes +an opponent. + +When hostilely disposed from either fear or from having been previously +ill-treated, I have seen the natives, without actually proceeding to +extremities, resort to all the symptoms of defiance I have mentioned, or +at other times, run about with fire-brands in their hands, lighting the +bushes and the grass, either as a charm, or in the hope of burning out +the intruders. When much alarmed and rather closely pressed, they have +run up the trees like monkeys, and concealed themselves among the boughs, +evidently thinking they were secure from pursuit there. + +If tribes meet simply for the purpose of festivity, and have no deaths to +avenge on either side, although they appear in warlike attitude, painted +and bearing spear and shield, yet when they approach each other, they all +become seated upon the ground. After which, the strangers, should there +be any, undergo a formal introduction, and have their country and lineage +described by the older men. At these meetings all occurrences of interest +are narrated, information is given as to the localities in which food is +most abundant, and invitations are issued by the proprietors of these +districts, to their relations and friends to accompany them thither. + +The position of one tribe towards another, whether on friendly terms or +otherwise, is talked about, and consultations are held on the existing +state of affairs, whether hostilities shall be continued or withdrawn, +and future plans of operation are marked out. + +Whilst the men are occupied in discussing these matters, the females +engage in a narration of family occurrences, such as births of children, +marriages, deaths, etc., not omitting a sprinkling of gossip and scandal, +from which, even these ebon sisters of a fairer race, are not altogether +exempt. + +In the evening, the huts of the different tribes are built as near to +each other as practicable, each tribe locating itself in the direction +from whence it came. The size and character of the huts, with the number +of their occupants, vary according to the state of the weather, and the +local circumstances of their position. In fine weather, one hut will +contain from two to five families, in wet weather more, each family +however having a separate fire. + +The amusements of the natives are various, but they generally have a +reference to their future occupations or pursuits. Boys who are very +young, have small reed spears made for them by their parents, the ends of +which are padded with grass, to prevent them from hurting each other. +They then stand at a little distance, and engage in a mimic fight; and by +this means acquire early that skill in the use of this weapon, for which, +in after life, they are so much celebrated. At other times round pieces +of bark are rolled along the ground, to represent an animal in the act of +running, at which the spears are thrown for the sake of practice. + +Another favourite amusement among the children, is to practise the dances +and songs of the adults, and a boy is very proud if he attains sufficient +skill in these, to be allowed to take part in the exhibitions that are +made before other tribes. + +String puzzles are another species of amusement with them. In these a +European would be surprised to see the ingenuity they display, and the +varied and singular figures which they produce. Our juvenile attempts in +this way, are very meagre and uninteresting compared to them. [Note 63: An +amusement of the New Zealand children.--Dieffenbach, vol. 2. p. 32.] + +Other gratifications enjoyed by children, consist in learning the +occupations and pursuits of after life, as to make twine, and weapons; to +ascend trees; to procure food; to guide the canoe, and many other things, +which enter into the pursuits of a savage. + +The elder boys engage more extensively in similar occupations, as they +are more particularly interested in them, and by their exertions have to +provide chiefly for their own support. Mock combats frequently take place +amongst them, in which they are encouraged by the adults, that they may +acquire the dexterities of warfare, in which they are soon to be more +seriously engaged. [Note 64: For an account of a similar practise among +the American Indians, vide Catlin, vol. 1. p. 131.] + +An amusement of the adults, is a large bunch of emu feathers tied +together, (fig. 1. Pl. 1.) which is held out and shaken as if in +defiance, by some individual, whilst the others advance to try to take it +out of his hands. This occasions an amusing struggle before the prize is +gained, in which it is not uncommon to see from ten to twenty strong and +lusty men rolling in a heap together. This is a sort of athletic exercise +amongst them, for the purpose of testing each other's strength. On such +an occasion they are all unarmed and naked. + +At nights, dances or plays are performed by the different tribes in turn, +the figures and scenes of which are extensively varied, but all are +accompanied by songs, and a rude kind of music produced by beating two +sticks together, or by the action of the hand upon a cloak of skins +rolled tightly together, so as to imitate the sound of a drum. In some of +the dances only are the women allowed to take a part; but they have +dances of their own, in which the men do not join. At all times they are +the chief musicians, vocal and instrumental. Sometimes, however, they +have an old man to lead the band and pitch the tunes; and at others they +are assisted by the old and young men indiscriminately. + +The natives have not any war-dance, properly so called, though sometimes +they are decorated in all the pomp and circumstance of war. Being +excellent mimies, they imitate in many of their dances the habits and +movements of animals. They also represent the mode of hunting, fighting, +love-making, etc. New figures and new songs are constantly introduced, and +are as much applauded and encored, as more refined productions of a +similar kind in civilized communities; being sometimes passed from tribe +to tribe for a considerable distance. I have often seen dances performed +to songs with which I was acquainted, and which I knew to belong to +distant parts of the country where a different dialect was spoken, and +which consequently could not be understood where I heard them. Many of +the natives cannot even give an interpretation of the songs of their own +districts [Note 65 at end of para.], and most of the explanations they do +give are, I am inclined to think, generally very imperfect, as the +measures or quantities of the syllables appear to be more attended to +than the sense. + +[Note 65: "Not one in ten of the young men who are dancing and singing it, +know the meaning of the song they are chaunting over."--Catlin, vol. 1. p. +126. Also the case in New Zealand, with respect to some of the +songs.--Vide Dieffenbach, vol. 2. p. 57.] + +Of these amusements the natives are passionately fond; and when once they +have so far overcome their naturally indolent disposition as to be +induced to engage in them there is no knowing when they will give over. +Dances are sometimes held during the day, but these are of rare +occurrence, and seem to be in some way connected with their ceremonial +observances or superstitions, since rude figures, and lofty branches of +trees, decorated with tufts of feathers, emu plumes, swan's down and red +ochre, occupy a prominent part in the exhibition, although never met with +in the dances by night. + +The dances vary a great deal among the different tribes, both as to +figures and music; the painting or decoration of their persons, their use +of weapons, and the participation of the females in them. Throughout the +entire continent, as far as it is known. there are many points of +resemblance in the dances of all the Aborigines, such as the practice of +painting the body with white and red ochre, carrying boughs in their +hands, or tying them round their limbs; adorning the head with feathers +or down, bearing bunches of feathers, tied in tufts in their hands, the +women singing and beating time upon folded skins, the men beating time +upon sticks or some of their smaller weapons, an old man acting as leader +of the band, and giving the time and tune to the others; the dances +representing the actions of animals, the circumstances of the chase, of +war, or of love; and the singular and extraordinary quivering motion of +the thighs when the legs are distended, a peculiarity probably confined +to the natives of the continent of Australia. + +The most interesting dances are those which take place at the meeting of +different tribes. Each tribe performs in turn, and as there is much +rivalry, there is a corresponding stimulus to exertion. The dances +usually commence an hour or two after dark, and are frequently kept up +the greater part of the night, the performers becoming so much excited +that, notwithstanding the violent exercise required to sustain all their +evolutions, they are unwilling to leave off. It is sometimes difficult to +induce them to commence a dance; but if they once begin, and enter into +the spirit of it, it is still more difficult to induce them to break up. + +The females of the tribe exhibiting, generally sit down in front of the +performers, either irregularly, in a line, or a semicircle, folding up +their skin cloaks into a hard ball, and then beating them upon their laps +with the palm of their hand, and accompanying the noise thus produced +with their voices. It is surprising to see the perfect time that is kept +in this way, and the admirable manner in which the motions of the dancers +accord with the music. There is no confusion, irregularity, or mistake. +Each person is conversant with his part; and all exhibit a degree of +elasticity and gracefulness in their movements which, in some of the +dances, is very striking and beautiful. + +In many of the figures, weapons are carried, such as the waddy, the +shield, the spear, etc. and in these it is amazing to behold the facility +and skill with which they form in close array, spread into open rank, +change places, and thread through the mazes of the dance, without ever +deranging their plans, or coming in contact with each other. + +The tribes who are not engaged in dancing, are seated in a large +semicircle as spectators, occasionally giving a rapturous exclamation of +delight, as any part of the performance is well gone through or any +remarkable feat of activity exhibited. Where natives have not much +acquaintance with Europeans, so as to give up, in some measure, their +original habits, if there is any degree of jealousy between the +respective tribes, they are sometimes partitioned off from each other by +boughs of trees, whilst they look at the dance. On one occasion I saw +five tribes met together, and the evening was of course spent in dancing. +Each tribe danced in turn, about forty being engaged at once, besides +sixteen females, eight of whom were at each corner of the male +performers. The men were naked, painted in various devices with red and +white, and had their heads adorned with feathers. The women wore their +opossum cloaks, and had bands of white down round their foreheads, with +the long feathers of the cockatoo sticking up in front like horns. In the +dance the men and women did not intermingle; but the two sets of women +who were dancing at the corners of the line, occasionally changed places +with each other, passing in this transit, at the back of the men. All +sung, and the men beat time upon their smaller weapons whilst dancing, +the whole making up a wild and piercing noise, most deafening and +ungrateful to the ears. + +The natives of the Rufus and Lake Victoria (Tar-ru) have a great variety +of dances and figures. One of these, which I witnessed, representing the +character, habits, and chase of the kangaroo was admirably performed, and +would have drawn down thunders of applause at any theatre in Europe. One +part of this figure, where the whole of the dancers successively drop +down from a standing to a crouching posture, and then hop off in this +position with outstretched arms and legs, was excellently executed. The +contrast of their sable skins with the broad white stripes painted down +their legs; their peculiar attitudes, and the order and regularity with +which these were kept, as they moved in a large semicircle, in the +softening light of the fire, produced a striking effect; and in +connection with the wild and inspiriting song, which gave an impulse to +their gesticulation, led me almost to believe that the scene was +unearthly. + +In some of the dances the music varies rapidly from slow to quick, and +the movements alter accordingly. In some they are altogether measured and +monotonous, in others very lively and quick, keeping the performers +almost constantly at a double quick march, moving in advance and retreat, +crossing past or threading through the ranks, and using a kind of motion +with the feet in unison with the music, that bears a strong resemblance +to the European mode of dancing. At particular points the figures +terminate by some simultaneous motion of the whole performers, +accompanied by a deep, gutteral "Waugh," [Note 66 at end of para.] uttered +by all together; at others by the actors closing in a dense circle, and +raising and pointing their weapons upwards with the same exclamation. + +[Note 66: This very peculiar sound appears to be common among the American +Indians, and to be used in a similar manner.--Vide Catlin, vol. 2. p.136.] + +The "Paritke," or natives inhabiting the scrub north-west of Moorunde, +have quite a different form of dancing from the river natives. They are +painted or decorated with feathers in a similar way; but each dancer ties +bunches of green boughs round the leg, above the knees, whilst the mode +of dancing consists in stamping with the foot and uttering at each motion +a deep ventral intonation, the boughs round the knees making a loud +rustling noise in keeping with the time of the music. One person, who +directs the others in the movements of this dance, holds in his hands an +instrument in the form of a diamond, made of two slight sticks, from two +and a half to three feet long, crossed and tied in the middle, round this +a string, made of the hair of the opposum, is pressed from corner to +corner, and continued successively towards the centre until there is only +room left for the hand to hold the instrument. At each corner is appended +a bunch of cockatoo feathers. With this the chief performer keeps a +little in advance of the dancers, and whisking it up and down to the time +of the music, regulates their movements. + +In another dance, in which women are the chief performers, their bodies +are painted with white streaks, and their hair adorned with cockatoo +feathers. They carry large sticks in their hands, and place themselves in +a row in front, whilst the men with their spears stand in a line behind +them. They then all commence their movements, but without intermingling, +the males and females dancing by themselves. There is little variety or +life in this dance, yet it seems to be a favourite one with the natives. + +The women have occasionally another mode of dancing, by joining the hands +together over the head, closing the feet, and bringing the knees into +contact. The legs are then thrown outwards from the knee, whilst the feet +and hands are kept in their original position, and being drawn quickly in +again a sharp sound is produced by the collision. This is either +practised alone by young girls, or by several together for their own +amusement. It is adopted also when a single woman is placed in front of a +row of male dancers to excite their passions; for many of the native +dances are of a grossly licentious character. In another figure they keep +the feet close together, without lifting them from the ground, and by a +peculiar motion of the limbs advance onwards, describing a short +semicircle. This amusement is almost exclusively confined to young +females among themselves. + +It has already been remarked, that the natives, on particular occasions, +have dances which they perform in the day-time, which are different from +others, and seem to have some connection with their ceremonial +observances or superstitions. I have only witnessed one of these. It took +place at Moorunde, in March 1844, on the occasion of a large number of +distant natives coming to visit the place; and the visitors were the +performers. The Moorunde natives were seated upon the brow of a +sand-bank; the strangers, consisting of two tribes, down in a hollow a +little way off, among a few bushes. When ready, they advanced in a line +towards the others, dancing and singing, being painted and decorated as +usual, some having tufts of feathers placed upon their heads like +cockades and others carrying them in their hands tied to short sticks. +Nearly all the males carried bunches of green boughs, which they waved +and shook to the time of the song. The women were also painted, and +danced in a line with the men, those of each tribe stationing themselves +at opposite ends of the line. Dancing for a while, they retired again +towards the hollow, and after a short interval advanced as before, but +with a person in the centre carrying a curious, rude-looking figure, +raised up in the air. This singular object consisted of a large bundle of +grass and reeds bound together, enveloped in a kangaroo skin, with the +flesh side outwards, and painted all over in small white circles. From +the top of this projected a thin stick, with a large tuft of feathers at +the end to represent the head, and sticks were stuck out laterally from +the sides for the arms, terminating in tufts of feathers stained red to +represent the hands. From the front, a small stick about six inches long +was projected, ending with a thick knob, formed of grass, around which a +piece of old cloth was tied. This was painted white and represented the +navel. The figure was about eight feet long, and was evidently intended +to symbolise a man. It was kept in its elevated position by the person +who carried it, and who advanced and retired with the movements of the +dancers. The position of the latter was alternately erect and crouching, +whilst they sang and beat time with the green boughs. Sometimes they +stretched out their right arms simultaneously, and at other times their +left, apparently for the purpose of marking the time at particular parts +of the song. After dancing for a while in this way, they again retired to +the hollow, and for a few moments there was another pause; after which +they again advanced as before, but without the image. In the place of +this two standards were exhibited, made of poles, about twelve feet long, +and borne by two persons. These were perfectly straight, and for the +first eight feet free from boughs; above this nine branches were left +upon each pole, having at their ends each a bunch of feathers of the hawk +or owl. On the top of one of the standards was a bunch of emu feathers. +The branches were stripped of all their smaller twigs and leaves, and of +their bark. They were painted white, and wound round with the white down +of the black swan, twisted into a rope. This also extended for a +considerable distance down the pole, below the undermost branch. + +Having again retired towards the hollow, they remained there for a few +minutes, and then advanced for the third time. On this occasion, however, +instead of the image or standards, they all carried their spears. After +dancing with these for some time, they went forward towards the Moorunde +natives, who sprang upon their feet, and seizing their weapons, speared +two or three of the strangers in the shoulder, and all was over. I was +anxious to have got hold of the rude figure to have a drawing made of it, +but it had been instantly destroyed. The standards I procured. + +This dance took place between nine and ten in the morning, and was quite +unlike any thing I had seen before. A stranger might have supposed it to +be a religious ceremony, and the image the object of worship. Such, +however, I am convinced was not the case, although I believe it to have +had some connection with their superstitions, and that it was regarded in +the light of a charm. + +Before the country was occupied by Europeans, the natives say that this +dance was frequently celebrated, but that latterly it has not been much +in use. No other instance of it ever came under my own observation in any +part of New Holland. + +The songs of the natives are of a very rude and unmeaning character, +rarely consisting of more than one or two ideas, which are continually +repeated over and over again. They are chiefly made on the spur of the +moment, and refer to something that has struck the attention at the time. +The measure of the song varies according to circumstances. It is gay and +lively, for the dance; slow and solemn for the enchanter; and wild and +pathetic for the mourner. The music is sometimes not unharmonious; and +when heard in the stillness of the night and mellowed by distance, is +often soothing and pleasing. I have frequently laid awake, after retiring +to rest, to listen to it. Europeans, their property, presence, and +habits, are frequently the subject of these songs; and as the natives +possess great powers of mimicry, and are acute in the observation of +anything that appears to them absurd or ludicrous, the white man often +becomes the object of their jests or quizzing. I have heard songs of this +kind sung at the dances in a kind of comic medley, where different +speakers take up parts during the breaks in the song, and where a +sentence or two of English is aptly introduced, or a quotation made from +some native dialect, other than that of the performers. It is usually +conducted in the form of question and answer, and the respective speakers +use the language of the persons they are supposed to represent. The +chorus is, however, still the same repetition of one or two words. + +The following specimens, taken from a vocabulary published by Messrs. +Teichelmann, and Schurmann, German Missionaries to the Aborigines, will +give an idea of the nature of the songs of the Adelaide tribe. + + +KADLITPIKO PALTI. +Pindi mai birkibirki parrato, parrato. (DE CAPO BIS.) + +CAPTAIN JACK'S SONG. +The European food, the pease, I wished to eat, I wished to eat. + + +MULLAWIRRABURKARNA PALTI. +Natta ngai padlo ngaityarniappi; watteyernaurlo tappandi ngaityo parni +tatti. (DA CAPO.) + +KING JOHN'S SONG. +Now it (viz. the road or track) has tired me; +throughout Yerna there is here unto me a continuous road. + + +WILTONGARROLO kundando +Strike (him, viz. the dog) with the tuft of eagle feathers. + +Kadlottikurrelo paltando +Strike (him) with the girdle + +Mangakurrelo paltando +Strike (him) with the string round the head + +Worrikarrolo paltando +Strike (him) with the blood of circumcision + +Turtikarrolo paltando +Strike (him) with the blood of the arm. etc. etc. + +Kartipaltapaltarlo padlara kundando + +Wodliparrele kadlondo + +Kanyamirarlo kadlondo + +Karkopurrelo kadlondo + + +"This curse or imprecation is used in hunting a wild dog, which, by the +mysterious effects of those words, is induced to lie down securely to +sleep, when the natives steal upon and easily kill him. The first word in +each line denotes things sacred or secret, which the females and children +are never allowed to see. + +* * * + +KAWEMUKKA minnurappindo Durtikarro minnurappindo +Tarralye minnurappindo Wimmari minnurappindi +Kirki minurappindo Wattetarpirri minnurappindo +Worrikarro minurappindo + + +"These sentences are used in hunting opossums, to prevent their escape, +when the natives set fire to hollow trees in which the opossums are +living. + +* * * + +KARRO karro wimmari Karra yernka makkitia +Karro karro kauwemukka Makkitia mulyeria +Karro karro makkitia + + +"These words are rapidly repeated to the NGULTAS, while undergoing the +painful operation of tattooing; they are believed to be so powerful as to +soothe the pain, and prevent fatal consequences of that barbarous +operation." + +Another specimen may be given from the Vocabulary published by Mr. Meyer, +another of the German Missionaries at Encounter Bay. + + +"Miny-el-ity yarluke an-ambe what is it road me for Aly-..el-..arr' +yerk-in yangaiak-ar! here are they standing up hill . . . . . . s + +What a fine road is this for me winding between the hills! + + +"The above words compose one of the native songs. It refers to the road +between Encounter Bay and Willunga. All their songs appear to be of the +same description, consisting of a few words which are continually +repeated. This specimen, it will be observed, consists of two regular +verses: + +-u|--|u-|u-u +-u|--|u-|u-u + +"This may, however, be accidental." + +I have not thought it worth while to give any specimens of the songs I +have collected myself, because I could not be quite certain that I should +give the original words with strict accuracy, neither could I be +satisfied about the translations. + +The assemblage of several tribes at one place for any of the objects I +have described, rarely continues uninterrupted for any great length of +time, for even where it has taken place for the most pacific purposes, it +seldom terminates as it began; and the greater the number of natives +present, the less likelihood is there that they will remain very long in +a state of quiescence. + +If not soon compelled to separate by the scarcity of food, or a desire to +follow some favourite pursuit, for which the season of the year is +favourable, they are generally driven to it by discord and disagreements +amongst themselves, which their habits and superstitions are calculated +to foment. + + + + +Chapter III. + + + +FOOD--HOW PROCURED--HOW PREPARED--LIMITATION AS TO AGE, ETC., ETC. + + +The food of the Aborigines of Australia embraces an endless variety of +articles, derived both from the animal and vegetable kingdom. The +different kinds in use depend in a great measure upon the season of the +year and local circumstances. Every district has in it something peculiar +to itself. The soil and climate of the continent vary greatly in their +character and afford a corresponding variety of productions to the +Aborigines. As far as it is yet known there are no localities on its +coast, no recesses in its interior, however sterile and inhospitable they +may appear to the traveller, that do not hold out some inducements to the +bordering savage to visit them, or at proper seasons of the year provide +him with the means of sustenance. Captain Grey remarks, in volume 2, of +his travels, page 261-- + + +"Generally speaking, the natives live well; in some districts there may +at particular seasons of the year be a deficiency of food, but if such is +the case, these tracts are, at those times, deserted. It is, however, +utterly impossible for a traveller or even for a strange native to judge +whether a district affords an abundance of food, or the contrary; for in +traversing extensive parts of Australia, I have found the sorts of food +vary from latitude to latitude, so that the vegetable productions used by +the Aborigines in one are totally different to those in another; if, +therefore, a stranger has no one to point out to him the vegetable +productions, the soil beneath his feet may teem with food, whilst he +starves. The same rule holds good with regard to animal productions; for +example, in the southern parts of the continent the Xanthorrea affords an +inexhaustible supply of fragrant grubs, which an epicure would delight +in, when once he has so far conquered his prejudices as to taste them; +whilst in proceeding to the northward, these trees decline in health and +growth, until about the parallel of Gantheaume Bay they totally +disappear, and even a native finds himself cut off from his ordinary +supplies of insects; the same circumstances taking place with regard to +the roots and other kinds of food at the same time, the traveller +necessarily finds himself reduced to cruel extremities. A native from the +plains, taken into an elevated mountainous district near his own country, +for the first time, is equally at fault. + +"But in his own district a native is very differently situated; he knows +exactly what it produces, the proper time at which the several articles +are in season, and the readiest means of procuring them. According to +these circumstances he regulates his visits to the different portions of +his hunting ground; and I can only state that I have always found the +greatest abundance in their huts." + + +It is evident therefore that a European or even a stranger native would +perish in a district capable of supplying the necessaries of life, simply +because he had not the experience necessary to direct him where to search +for food, or judgment to inform him what article might be in season at +the particular time of his visit. It is equally the same with respect to +procuring water. The native inhabiting a scrubby and an arid district +has, from his knowledge of the country and from a long residence and +practical experience in the desert, many resources at command to supply +his wants, where the white man would faint or perish from thirst. + +The very densest brushes, which to the latter are so formidable and +forbidding, hold out to the former advantages and inducements to resort +to them of more than ordinary temptation. Abounding in wild animals of +various kinds, they offer to the natives who frequent them an unlimited +supply of food: a facility for obtaining firewood, a grateful shade from +the heat, an effectual screen from the cold, and it has already been +shewn that they afford the means of satisfying their thirst by a process +but little known, and which from a difference in habits and temperament +would be but little available to the European.[Note 67 at end of para.] +In judging, therefore, of the character of any country, from the mere +fact of natives being seen there, or even of their being numerous, we must +take all these circumstances into consideration; and, in estimating the +facility with which a native can remain for a long time in a country, +apparently arid and inhospitable, we must not omit to take into account +his education and experience, and the general nature of his habits. The +two former have accustomed him from infancy to feel at home and at ease, +where a European sees only dread and danger: he has thus the advantage +over the European in the desert, that a swimmer has in the water over the +man who cannot swim; conscious of his own powers and resources, he feels +not the least apprehension, whilst the very terrors of the other but +augment his danger. On the other hand, the general habits, mode of life, +and almost temperament of the savage, give him an equally great advantage. +Indolent by disposition and indulgence, he makes very short stages in his +ordinary travels, rarely moving more than from eight to twelve miles in +the day, and this he does so leisurely and quietly, that he neither +becomes excited nor heated, and consequently does not experience that +excessive thirst, which is produced by the active exertions or violent +exercise of the European, and which in the latter is at the same time so +greatly augmented, by his want of confidence and anxiety. + +[Note 67: Vide vol. I. p.349 (March 26.)] + +Another very great advantage on the part of the natives is, the intimate +knowledge they have of every nook and corner of the country they inhabit; +does a shower of rain fall, they know the very rock where a little water +is most likely to be collected, the very hole where it is the longest +retained, and by repairing straight to the place they fill their skins, +and thus obtain a supply that lasts them many days. Are there heavy dews +at night, they know where the longest grass grows, from which they may +collect the spangles, and water is sometimes procured thus in very great +abundance. [Note 68 at end of para.] Should there be neither rains nor +dews, their experience at once points out to them the lowest levels where +the gumscrub grows, and where they are sure of getting water from its +roots, with the least possible amount of labour that the method +admits of, and with the surest prospect of success. + +[Note 69: Vide vol. I. p.349 (March 27.)] + +[Note 68: Vide vol. I. p.361 (March 30.)] + +Another very important circumstance in favour of the native, and one +which results in a measure from some of the above-mentioned +considerations, is the fact, that the native sets to work to procure his +supply calmly and collectedly, and before he requires it; whilst the +European, even if acquainted with the method of obtaining it, would not +resort to it until the last extremity, when the body was fatigued and +heated by previous exertion, the mouth dry and parched by thirst, and the +mind excited and anxious from apprehension. The natural consequence of +such a very different combination of circumstances would be, that the +native would obtain an abundant and satisfying supply, whilst the +European would never be able to procure a sufficiency to appease his +thirst, but would rather fatigue and exhaust his strength the more, from +his want of skill and experience, and from his body and mind being both +in an unfit state for this particular kind of exertion. Such at least, on +many various occasions, I have found to be the case both with myself, and +with natives with me who have not been accustomed to the scrub, or to +this method of procuring water. The difficulty and labour of finding and +digging out the roots, our want of skill in selecting proper ones, the +great dust arising from the loose, powdery soil in which they were, and +our own previously excited and exhausted state, have invariably prevented +us from deriving the full advantage we expected from our efforts. + +In cases of extreme thirst, where the throat is dry and parched, or life +at all in danger, the toil of digging for the roots would be well repaid +by the relief afforded. I have myself, in such cases, found that though I +could by no means satiate my thirst, I could always succeed in keeping my +mouth cool and moist, and so far in rendering myself equal to exertions I +could not otherwise have made. Indeed, I hold it impossible that a +person, acquainted with this means of procuring water, and in a district +where the gum-scrub grew, could ever perish from thirst in any moderate +lapse of time, if he had with him food to eat, and was not physically +incapable of exertion. Under such circumstances, the moisture he would be +able to procure from the roots, would, I think, be quite sufficient to +enable him to eat his food, and to sustain his strength for a +considerable time, under such short stages as would gradually conduct him +free from his embarrassments. + +In addition to the value of the gum-scrub to the native, as a source from +whence to obtain his supply of water, it is equally important to him as +affording an article of food, when his other resources have failed. To +procure this, the lateral roots are still made use of, but the smaller +ones generally are selected, such as vary in diameter from an inch +downwards. The roots being dug up, the bark is peeled off and roasted +crisp in hot ashes; it is then pounded between two stones, and has a +pleasant farinaceous taste, strongly resembling that of malt. I have +often seen the natives eating this, and have frequently eaten it myself +in small quantities. How far it alone would support life, or sustain a +man in strength, I have of course no means of forming an opinion; but it +is, probably, only resorted to when other food is scarce. Several of the +roots of other shrubs are also used for food, and some of them are +mucilaginous and very palatable. + +Throughout the greater portion of New Holland, where there do not happen +to be European settlers, and invariably where fresh water can be +permanently procured upon the surface, the native experiences no +difficulty whatever in procuring food in abundance all the year round. It +is true that the character of his diet varies with the changing seasons, +and the formation of the country he inhabits; but it rarely happens that +any season of the year, or any description of country does not yield him +both animal and vegetable food. Amongst the almost unlimited catalogue of +edible articles used by the natives of Australia, the following may be +classed as the chief:--all salt and fresh-water fish and shell-fish, of +which, in the larger rivers, there are vast numbers and many species; +freshwater turtle; frogs of different kinds; rats and mice; lizards, and +most kinds of snakes and reptiles; grubs of all kinds; moths of several +varieties; fungi, and many sorts of roots; the leaves and tops of a +variety of plants; the leaf and fruit of the mesembryanthemum; various +kinds of fruits and berries; the bark from the roots of many trees and +shrubs; the seeds of leguminous plants; gum from several species of +acacia; different sorts of manna; honey from the native bee, and also +from the flowers of the Banksia, by soaking them in water; the tender +leaves of the grass-tree; the larvae of insects; white ants; eggs of +birds; turtles or lizards; many kinds of kangaroo; opossums; squirrels, +sloths, and wallabies; ducks; geese; teal; cockatoos; parrots; wild dogs +and wombats; the native companion; the wild turkey; the swan; the +pelican; the leipoa, and an endless variety of water-fowl, and other +descriptions of birds. + +Of these articles, many are not only procurable in abundance, but in such +vast quantities at the proper seasons, as to afford for a considerable +length of time an ample means of subsistence to many hundreds of natives +congregated in one place; and these are generally the kinds of food of +which the natives are particularly fond. On many parts of the coast, and +in the larger inland rivers, fish are obtained of a very fine +description, and in great abundance. At Lake Victoria, which is filled +with the back waters of the Murray, I have seen six hundred natives +encamped together, all of whom were living at the time upon fish procured +from the lake, with the addition, perhaps, of the leaves of the +mesembryanthemum. When I went amongst them I never perceived any scarcity +in their camps. The fish were caught in nets. + +At Moorunde, when the Murray annually inundates the flats, fresh-water +cray-fish make their way to the surface of the ground from holes where +they have been buried during the year, in such vast numbers that I have +seen four hundred natives live upon them for weeks together, whilst the +numbers spoiled or thrown away would have sustained four hundred more. +This fish is an excellent and nutritious article of food, and would be +highly prized by the epicure. It is caught by the women who wade into the +water in a long close line, stooping down and walking backwards, whilst +they grope with their hands and feet, presenting a singular, and to the +uninitiated, an incomprehensible spectacle, as they thus move slowly +backwards, but keep the line regular and well preserved, as all generally +occupy the same position at one time. When a cray-fish is caught the +large claws are torn off to prevent the animal from biting, and both +claws and body are put into a small net suspended from the neck for that +purpose. In two or three hours a woman will procure as many fish as will +last her family for a day. The men are too lazy to do anything when food +is so abundant, and lie basking under the trees in luxurious indolence, +whilst their wives, mothers, or sisters are engaged in cooking for them. + +An unlimited supply of fish is also procurable at the Murray about the +beginning of December, when the floods, having attained their greatest +height, begin again to recede; and when the waters, which had been thrown +by the back water channels of the river into the flats behind its banks, +begin again to reflow through them into the river as it falls in height. +At this time the natives repair to these channels, and making a weir +across them with stakes and grass interwoven, leave only one or two small +openings for the stream to pass through. To these they attach bag nets, +which receive all the fish that attempt to re-enter the river. The number +procured in this way in a few hours is incredible. Large bodies of +natives depend upon these weirs for their sole subsistence, for some time +after the waters have commenced to recede. + +Another very favourite article of food, and equally abundant at a +particular season of the year, in the eastern portion of the continent, +is a species of moth which the natives procure from the cavities and +hollows of the mountains in certain localities. This, when roasted, has +something of the appearance and flavour of an almond badly peeled. It is +called in the dialect of the district, where I met with it, Booguon. The +natives are never so well conditioned in that part of the country, as at +the season of the year when they return from feasting upon this moth; and +their dogs partake equally of the general improvement. + +The tops, leaves, and stalks of a kind of cress, gathered at the proper +season of the year, tied up in bunches, and afterwards steamed in an +oven, furnish a favourite, and inexhaustible supply of food for an +unlimited number of natives. When prepared, this food has a savoury and +an agreeable smell, and in taste is not unlike a boiled cabbage. In some +of its varieties it is in season for a great length of time, and is +procured in the flats of rivers, on the borders of lagoons, at the +Murray, and in many other parts of New Holland. + +There are many other articles of food among the natives, equally abundant +and valuable as those I have enumerated: such as various kinds of +berries, or fruits, the bulbous roots of a reed called the belillah, +certain kinds of fungi dug out of the ground, fresh-water muscles, and +roots of several kinds, etc. Indeed, were I to go through the list of +articles seriatim, and enter upon the varieties and subdivisions of each +class, with the seasons of the year at which they were procurable, it +would at once be apparent that the natives of Australia, in their natural +state, are not subject to much inconvenience for want of the necessaries +of life. In almost every part of the continent which I have visited, +where the presence of Europeans, or their stock, has not limited, or +destroyed their original means of subsistence, I have found that the +natives could usually, in three or four hours, procure as much food as +would last for the day, and that without fatigue or labour. They are not +provident in their provision for the future, but a sufficiency of food is +commonly laid by at the camp for the morning meal. In travelling, they +sometimes husband, with great care and abstinence, the stock they have +prepared for the journey; and though both fatigued and hungry, they will +eat sparingly, and share their morsel with their friends, without +encroaching too much upon their store, until some reasonable prospect +appears of getting it replenished. + +In wet weather the natives suffer the most, as they are then indisposed +to leave their camps to look for food, and experience the inconveniences +both of cold and hunger. If food, at all tainted, is offered to a native +by Europeans, it is generally rejected with disgust. In their natural +state, however, they frequently eat either fish or animals almost in a +state of putridity. + +Cannibalism is not common, though there is reason to believe, that it is +occasionally practised by some tribes, but under what circumstances it is +difficult to say. Native sorcerers are said to acquire their magic +influence by eating human flesh, but this is only done once in a +life-time. + +[Note 70: The only authentic and detailed account of any instance of +cannibalism, that I am acquainted with, is found in Parliamentary Papers +on Australian Aborigines, published August, 1844, in a report of +Mr. Protector Sievewright, from Lake Tarong, in one of the Port Phillip +districts. + +"On going out I found the whole of the men of the different tribes +(amounting to upwards of 100) engaged hand to hand in one general melee. + +"On being directed by some of the women, who had likewise sought shelter +near my tent, to the huts of the Bolaghers, I there found a young woman, +supported in the arms of some of her tribe, quite insensible, and +bleeding from two severe wounds upon the right side of the face; she +continued in the same state of insensibility till about 11 o'clock, when +she expired. + +"After fighting for nearly an hour, the men of the Bolagher tribe +returned to their huts, when finding that every means I had used to +restore the young woman was in vain, they gave vent to the most frantic +expressions of grief and rage, and were employed till daylight in +preparing themselves and weapons to renew the combat. + +"Shortly before sunrise they again rushed towards the Targurt and +Elengermite tribes, who, with about a dozen of Wamambool natives, were +encamped together, when a most severe struggle took place between them, +and very few escaped on either side without serious fractures or dangerous +spear wounds. Although the Targurt tribe were supported by the Elengermite +and Wamambool natives, and were consequently much superior in number, +they were, after two hours hard fighting, driven off the ground and +pursued for about four miles, to where their women and children had +retired; when one of the former, named Mootinewhannong, was selected, +and fell, pierced by about 20 spears of the pursuers. + +"The body of this female was shortly afterwards burned to ashes by her +own people, and the Bolagher natives returned to their encampment, +apparently satisfied with the revenge they had taken, and remained +silently and sullenly watching the almost inanimate body of the wounded +female. + +"When death took place, they again expressed the most violent and +extravagant grief; they threw themselves upon the ground, weeping and +screaming at the height of their voices, lacerating their bodies and +inflicting upon themselves wounds upon their heads, from blows which they +gave themselves with the leangville. About an hour after the death of the +young woman, the body was removed a few hundred yards into the bush +by the father and brother of the deceased; the remainder of the tribe +following by one at a time, until they had all joined what I imagined +to be the usual funeral party. Having accompanied the body when it +was removed, I was then requested to return to my tent, which request +I took no notice of. In a few minutes I was again desired, rather +sternly, and by impatient signs to go. I endeavoured to make them +understand that I wished to remain, and I sat down upon a tree close to +where the body lay. The father of the deceased then came close up to me, +and pointed with his finger to his mouth, and then to the dead body. I +was at this moment closely and intensely scrutinized by the whole party. +I at once guessed their meaning, and signified my intention to remain, +and, with as much indifference as I could assume, stretched myself upon +the tree, and narrowly watched their proceedings. + +"With a flint they made an incision upon the breast, when a simultaneous +shriek was given by the party, and the same violent signs of grief were +again evinced. After a short time the operation was again commenced, +and in a few minutes the body disembowelled. + +"The scene which now took place was of the most revolting description; +horror-stricken and utterly disgusted, while obliged to preserve that +equanimity of demeanour upon which I imagined the development of this +tragedy to depend, I witnessed the most fearful scene of ferocious +cannibalism. + +"The bowels and entire viscera having been disengaged from the body, +were at first portioned out; but from the impatience of some of the women +to get at the liver, a general scramble took place for it, and it was +snatched in pieces, and, without the slightest process of cooking, +was devoured with an eagerness and avidity, a keen, fiendish expression +of impatience for more, from which scene, a memory too tenacious upon +this subject will not allow me to escape; the kidneys and heart were +in like manner immediately consumed, and as a climax to these revolting +orgies, when the whole viscera were removed, a quantity of blood and +serum which had collected in the cavity of the chest, was eagerly +collected in handsful, and drunk by the old man who had dissected +the body; the flesh was entirely cut off the ribs and back, the +arms and legs were wrenched and twisted from the shoulder and hip +joints, and their teeth employed to dissever the reeking tendons, when +they would not immediately yield to their impatience. The limbs were now +doubled up and put aside in their baskets; and on putting a portion of +the flesh upon a fire which had previously been lit, they seemed to +remember that I was of the party; something was said to one of the women, +who cut off a foot from the leg she had in her possession, and offered it +to me; I thought it prudent to accept of it, and wrapping it in my +handkerchief, and pointing to my tent, they nodded assent, and I joyfully +availed myself of their permission to retire. They shortly afterwards +returned to their huts with the debris of the feast, and during the day, +to the horror and annoyance of my two boys, and those belonging to the +establishment, they brought another part, and some half-picked bones, and +offered them to us. The head was struck off with a tomahawk and placed +between hot stones in the hollow of a tree, where it has undergone a +process of baking, and it is still left there otherwise untouched."] + +Many methods of obtaining the various articles of food, are resorted to +by the natives, some of these are very simple; some exceedingly +ingenious; whilst others require great tact and skill; and not a few +exercise to their fullest extent those qualities, which they possess so +greatly, and prize so highly, such as quickness of sight, readiness of +hand, caution in arranging plans, judgment in directing them, patience in +waiting for the result, endurance in pursuing, and strength in holding +fast. + +Fish are procured in different ways. They are caught with weirs or dams, +as already described; and also with large seines made of string +manufactured from the rush, and buoyed up with dry reeds, bound into +bundles, and weighted by stones tied to the bottom. This is used just in +the same way as the European seine, being either shot from a canoe, or +set by swimming or wading, according to the depth of the water. Great +numbers of fish of various kinds, and often of a large size, are caught +in this way. Fresh water turtles, varying in weight from three to twelve +pounds, are also taken in the same way, and are excellent eating. + +Another kind of net (ngail-le) used in fishing is made of slender twine, +and has a large mesh. It is long, but not more than from two to three +feet deep. A string is passed through the loops of the upper part, and is +then stretched across a lagoon, or any other sheet of still water, the +upper part being nearly level with the surface of the water, and the +lower part dangling loose below, without weight. In setting it each +extremity is fastened to a pole or spear, stuck firmly in the mud to keep +it in its place, whilst a third pole is occasionally put in the middle. A +few dry reeds are sometimes fastened at intervals to the line, running +through the upper part to prevent the net from sinking too low. When set, +the native either remains by it to take the fish out as they are caught, +or leaves it there all night. The fish swimming about the lagoon, or +sporting near the surface, strike against the net, and get their heads +fast in the meshes. The net swinging loose, yields to their pressure, and +entangles them the more as they struggle to extricate themselves from it. +This is a most destructive mode of catching fish, and generally secures +the finest and largest. + +Fish are sometimes taken in another way. A party of natives proceed to a +lagoon, or lake of still water, each carrying in his hand a small net +(ken-de-ran-ko) of a semi-oval shape, about twenty inches long, from +seven to nine inches across, and from five to seven inches deep. This net +is kept in shape by a thin hoop of wood running round it in the upper +part. With this the native dives to the bottom, and searches among the +weeds until he sees a fish; he then cautiously places the net under it, +and, rising suddenly to the surface, holds his victim at arm's length +above his head; and then biting it to kill it, he throws it on the shore +and dives down again for another. + +The natives are very skilful in this mode of fishing, and it is an +interesting sight to see several of them in the water diving together, +and exerting themselves against each other in their efforts to catch the +best fish, whilst the affrighted inhabitants of the water swim wildly and +confusedly about, seeking shelter in the mud and weeds, only to become an +easier prey. I have even seen natives dive down in the river, without net +or implement of any kind, and bring up good-sized fish, which they had +caught with their hands at the bottom. + +Another method of diving with the net is conducted on a larger scale. The +net itself is made of strong twine, from six to eight feet long, oval at +the top, about two feet across, and two deep. It is looped to a wooden +hoop or bow, with a strong string drawn tightly across the two ends of +the bow, and passed through the loops of the straight side of the net. +With this two natives dive together under the cliffs which confine the +waters of the Murray, each holding one end of the bow. They then place it +before any hole or cavity there may be in the rocks beneath the surface, +with the size, shape, and position of which they have by previous +experience become well acquainted; the terrified fish is then driven into +the net and secured. Fishes varying from twenty to seventy pounds are +caught in this way. It is only, however, at particular seasons of the +year, when the female fish are seeking for a place to deposit their spawn +that this mode of fishing can be adopted. + +Other kinds of hoop-nets are used for catching fish in shallow waters, or +for taking the shrimp, and a small fish like the white-bait, but they +need not be particularly described. + +The next principal mode of procuring fish is by spearing them, and even +this is performed in a variety of ways, according to the season of the +year, the description of fish to be taken, and the peculiarities of the +place where they are found. In the shallow waters upon the sea-coast the +native wades with his spear and throwing-stick, and follows the windings +of the fish with singular rapidity and skill, rarely missing his aim +where he has an opportunity of striking. + +In the larger rivers, when the waters are low and clear, a party of +natives varying in numbers from five to forty plunge in with their +spears, which for the purpose are made of hard wood, with smooth, sharp +points, and about six feet long. Forming themselves into a large +semicircle in the water, they all dive down, simultaneously, with their +weapons, accompanied sometimes by a young man, a few yards in advance of +the middle of the party, and without a spear. For a considerable time +they remain under water, and then, if successful, gradually emerge, and +deliver the fish that have been speared, to their friends on the shore. +If unsuccessful they swim a few yards further down, and dive again with +their weapons. And thus they frequently go on for a mile or two, until +they are either tired or satisfied with their success. I have known a +party of thirty natives kill seven or eight fish in the course of an +hour, none of which were under fifteen pounds, whilst some of them were +much larger. + +The regularity with which they keep their relative positions, +notwithstanding the current of the river, and the dexterity and order +with which they dive under the water, are truly surprising to a person +who witnesses them for the first time. + +At the period of floods, and when they have nearly attained their height, +and the young reeds and rushes begin to shew themselves above the surface +of the water, near the bank of rivers or of lagoons formed by the floods +in the alluvial flats behind, another method of spearing fish is +practised from a canoe (mun) made out of a solid sheet of the bark of the +gum-tree (eucalyptus). + +To these reeds the fish are very fond of resorting, probably to feed upon +the insects that are found upon the tender leaves; in moving about from +one place to another they strike against the reeds, and produce a +vibration in the tops above the water; this indicates to the native, who +is sailing stealthily along in his canoe, the exact place where they are +passing, and suddenly raising his arm with great energy he strikes +forcibly among the reeds with his spear, without letting it go out of his +hand. If the first blow does not succeed, it is rapidly repeated, and +seldom fails in securing a prize. When a large fish is speared, it is +pressed downwards to the ground, and the native leaps out of his canoe +and dives to the bottom to secure it. The spear (moo-ar-roo) used in this +method of fishing varies from ten to sixteen feet in length, and is made +of pine, pliant, and of nearly a uniform thickness; it is about an inch +and a half in diameter, and has two short pointed pieces of hard wood +lashed to one end, projecting about five or six inches, and set a little +apart, so as to form a kind of prongs or grains. This instrument is also +used for propelling the canoe. + +It is used too for spearing fish by night, which is by far the most +interesting method of any. + +Having previously prepared his canoe, straightened his spear, and +hardened and sharpened the points of the prongs, the native breaks up his +fire-wood in small pieces, and loads his canoe with a stock calculated to +last the time he intends to be absent. An oval piece of bark, about three +feet long and two broad, is then coated over with wet mud and placed in +the stern of the canoe, on a framework of sticks. One or two sticks are +stuck upright in the mud, and others placed around them in the form of a +cone. A fire is then put underneath, and the native, stepping into the +bow of his canoe, pushes steadily into the stream, and commences his +nocturnal employment. The wood of which the fire is made is of a +particular kind, and, as only one description of tree will answer, it has +frequently to be brought from a considerable distance. It is obtained +among the brush of the table-land stretching behind the valley of the +Murray, on either side, and its peculiarities are that it is light, +brittle, and resinous, emitting when burning a most agreeable fragrance +and a powerful and brilliant light, almost wholly free from smoke. + +Two men usually accompany each canoe, one to attend to the fire, and keep +it always burning brightly, and the other to guide the canoe and spear +the fish. As soon as the fire begins to blaze up the scene becomes most +beautiful. The low black looking piece of bark floats noiselessly down +the middle of the stream, or stealthily glides under the frowning cliffs, +now lit up by a brilliant light. In the bow is seen the dark, naked, but +graceful form of the savage, standing firm and erect, and scarcely +seeming to move, as with the slightest motion of his arms he guides the +frail canoe. His spear is grasped in his hand, whilst his whole attitude +and appearance denote the most intense vigilance and attention. Suddenly +you see his arm uplifted, and the weapon descending with the rapidity of +thought, a splash is seen, a struggle heard, and a fish is slowly and +cautiously drawn towards the canoe pierced through with the spear. If it +is a large one, the native at once plunges into the water, still +retaining his hold of the spear, and soon reappears with the trophy in +his arms. + +Among the rocks under the cliffs, or among logs or roots of trees, or on +a clayey bottom, large fresh-water lobsters (poo-ta-ron-ko) are procured +in the same way, weighing from two to four pounds each, and of a most +delicate and excellent flavour. I have frequently been out with a single +native, and seen him spear from ten to sixteen of these in an hour or +two. + +It has a singular and powerful effect upon the imagination, to witness at +midnight a fleet of these canoes, gliding about in the distance like so +many balls of fire, imparting a still deeper shade to the gloom of +darkness which surrounds the spectator, and throwing an air of romance on +the whole scene. Occasionally in travelling at night, and coming suddenly +upon the river from the scrub behind, I have been dazzled and enchanted +with the fairy sight that has burst upon me. The waters have been alive +with brilliant fires, moving to and fro in every direction, like meteors +from a marsh, and like those too, rapidly and inexplicably disappearing +when the footsteps of strangers are heard approaching. + +A few other methods of catching fish are sometimes resorted to, such as +stirring up the mud in stagnant ponds, and taking the fish when they come +up almost choked to the surface. Groping with their hands or with boughs, +etc. etc. + +There is also a particular season of the year (about September), when in +the larger rivers the fish become ill or diseased, and lie floating on +the surface unable to descend, or drift down dead with the current. +Fishes weighing nearly eighty pounds are sometimes taken in this way. The +natives are always looking out for opportunities of procuring food so +easily, and never hesitate to eat any fish, although they may have been +dead for some time. + +I have never seen the natives use hooks in fishing of their own +manufacture, nor do I believe that they ever make any, though they are +glad enough to get them from Europeans. + +The large fresh-water lobster is sometimes procured by diving, in which +case the females are generally employed, as the weather is cold, and +night is the best time to procure them. It is extraordinary to see a +party of women plunge into the water on a cold dark night, and swim and +dive about amongst logs, stumps, roots, and weeds without ever hurting +themselves, and seldom failing to obtai the object of their search. + +Turtle are procured in the same way, but generally by the men, and in the +day time. + +Muscles of a very large kind are also got by diving. The women whose duty +it is to collect these, go into the water with small nets (len-ko) hung +round their necks, and diving to the bottom pick up as many as they can, +put them into their bags, and rise to the surface for fresh air, +repeating the operation until their bags have been filled. They have the +power of remaining for a long time under the water, and when they rise to +the surface for air, the head and sometimes the mouth only is exposed. A +stranger suddenly coming to the river when they were all below, would be +puzzled to make out what the black objects were, so frequently appearing +and disappearing in the water. + +Cray-fish of the small kind (u-kod-ko) weighing from four to six ounces +are obtained by the women wading into the water as already described, or +by men wading and using a large bow-net, called a "wharro," which is +dragged along by two or three of them close to the bottom where the water +is not too deep. + +Frogs are dug out of the ground by the women, or caught in the marshes, +and used in every stage from the tadpole upwards. + +Rats are also dug out of the ground, but they are procured in the +greatest numbers and with the utmost facility when the approach of the +floods in the river flats compels them to evacuate their domiciles. A +variety is procured among the scrubs under a singular pile or nest which +they make of sticks, in the shape of a hay-cock, three or four feet high +and many feet in circumference. A great many occupy the same pile and are +killed with sticks as they run out. + +Snakes, lizards and other reptiles are procured among the rocks or in the +scrubs. Grubs are got out of the gum-tree into which they eat their way, +as also out of the roots of the mimosa, the leaves of the zamia, the +trunk of the xanthorra, and a variety of other plants and shrubs. + +One particularly large white grub, and a great bon-bouche to the natives, +is procured out of the ground. It is about four inches long and half an +inch in thickness, and is obtained by attaching a thin narrow hook of +hard wood to the long, wiry shoots of the polygonum, and then pushing +this gently down the hole through which the grub has burrowed into the +earth until it is hooked. Grubs are procured at a depth of seven feet in +this way without the delay or trouble of digging. + +Moths are procured as before described; or the larger varieties are +caught at nights whilst flying about. + +Fungi are abundant, and of great variety. Some are obtained from the +surface of the ground, others below it, and others again from the trunks +and boughs of trees. + +Roots of all kinds are procured by digging, one of the most important +being that of the flag or cooper's reed, which grows in marshes or +alluvial soils that are subject to periodical inundations. This is used +more or less at all seasons of the year, but is best after the floods +have retired and the tops have become decayed and been burnt off. The +root is roasted in hot ashes, and chewed, when it affords a nutritious +and pleasant farinaceous food. + +The belillah is another important bulbous root, which also grows on lands +subject to floods. It is about the size of a walnut, of a hard and oily +nature, and is prepared by being roasted and pounded into a thin cake +between two stones. Immense tracts of country are covered with this plant +on the flats of the Murray, which in the distance look like the most +beautiful and luxuriant meadows. After the floods have retired I have +seen several hundreds of acres, with the stems of the plant six or seven +feet high, and growing so closely together as to render it very difficult +to penetrate far amongst them. + +The thick pulpy leaf of the mesembryanthemum is in general use in all +parts of Australia which I have visited, and is eaten as a sort of relish +with almost every other kind of food. That which grows upon the elevated +table lands is preferred to that which is found in the valleys. It is +selected when the full vigour of the plant begins to decline and the tips +of the leaves become red, but before the leaf is at all withered. The +fruit is used both when first ripe and also after it has become dried up +and apparently withered. In each case it has an agreeable flavour and is +much prized by the natives. + +Many other descriptions of fruits and berries are made use of in +different parts of the continent, the chief of which, so far as their use +has come under my own observation, are-- + +1. A kind of fruit called in the Moorunde dialect "ketango," about the +size and shape of a Siberian crab, but rounder. When this is ripe, it is +of a deep red colour, and consists of a solid mealy substance, about the +eighth of an inch in thickness, enclosing a large round stone, which, +upon being broken, yields a well-flavoured kernel. The edible part of the +fruit has an agreeable acid taste, and makes excellent puddings or +preserves, for which purpose it is now extensively used by Europeans. The +shrub on which this grows, is very elegant and graceful, and varies from +four to twelve feet in height. [Note 71: A species of fusanus.] When in +full bearing, nothing can exceed its beauty, drooping beneath its +crimson load. + +Another shrub found in the scrubs, may sometimes be mistaken for this, as +it bears in appearance a similar fruit; but on being tasted, it is bitter +and nauseous. This in the Murray dialect is called "netting." The natives +prepare it by baking it in an oven, which takes the bitter taste away. +The "netting" is earlier in season than the "ketango." + +2. A berry about the size and shape of a large sloe, but with a smaller +stone; conical in shape, and rounded at the large end. This fruit is +juicy and saline, though not disagreeable in taste. There are several +varieties of it, which when ripe are of a black, red, or yellow colour. +The black is the best. The bush upon which it grows is a salsolaceous +bramble [Note 72: Nitraria Australis], and is found in large quantities +on the saline flats, bordering some parts of the Murrumbidgee and Murray +rivers; and along the low parts of the southern coast, immediately behind +the ridges bounding the sea shore. It is a staple article of food in its +season, among the natives of those districts where it abounds, and is +eaten by them raw, stone and all. + +3. A small berry or currant, called by the natives of Moorunde +"eertapko," about the size of No. 2. shot. When ripe it is red, and of an +agreeable acid flavour. It grows upon a low creeping tap-rooted plant, of +a salsolaceous character, found in the alluvial flats of the Murray, +among the polygonum brushes, and in many other places. A single plant +will spread over an area of many yards in diameter, covering the dry and +arid ground with a close, soft, and velvety carpet in the heat of summer, +at which time the fruit is in perfection. To collect so small a berry +with facility, and in abundance, the natives cut a rounded tray of thin +bark, two or three feet long, and six or eight inches wide, over this +they lift up the plant, upon which the fruit grows, and shake the berries +into it. When a sufficiency has been collected, the berries are skilfully +tossed into the air, and separated from the leaves and dirt. The natives +are very fond of this fruit, which affords them an inexhaustible resource +for many weeks. In an hour a native could collect more than he could use +in a day. + +The other sorts of fruits and berries are numerous and varied, but do not +merit particular description. + +[Note 73: Mr. Simpson gives the following account of the Bunya Bunya, a +fruit-bearing tree lately discovered on the N.E. coast of New +Holland. + +"Ascending a steep hill, some four miles further on, we passed +through a bunya scrub, and for the first time had an opportunity of +examining this noble tree more closely. It raises its majestic head above +every other tree in the forest, and must, therefore, frequently reach the +height of 250 feet; the trunk is beautifully formed, being as straight as +an arrow, and perfectly branchless for above two-thirds of its height; +branches then strike off, nearly at right angles from the trunk, forming +circles which gradually diminish in diameter till they reach the summit, +which terminates in a single shoot; the foliage shining, dark green, the +leaves acutely pointed and lanceolate, with large green cones, the size +of a child's head, hanging from the terminal branches in the fruiting +season (January). It is, too, very remarkable that the bunya tree, +according to the natives, is nowhere to be met with but in these parts; +it is, however, there is no doubt, a species of the araucaria genus, well +known in South America; the timber, when green, is white, fine grained +and very tough, but whether it retains these qualities when dry, has not +yet been determined. The Aborigines are particularly fond of the bunya +nuts, which are as large as a full sized almond, including the shell, +and, in good seasons, come from a distance of 100 or 200 miles to feast +upon them."] + +Bark from the roots of trees and shrubs is roasted, and then pounded +between two stones for use. + +Gums exude from the trees on which they are procured. These are generally +varieties of the Mimosa. + +Manna exudes in great abundance from the tree already mentioned, as +constituting the firewood which the natives use in fishing by night. It +is of a mottled red or brown colour, of a firm consistency and sweet +taste, resembling exactly in appearance, flavour, and colour, the manna +used medicinally in Europe. + +Another variety is yielded by the Eucalyptus mannifera and is found early +in the morning under the tree, scattered on the ground. This is +beautifully white and delicate, resembling flakes of snow. + +Honey is procured by steeping the cones of the Banksia or other +melliferous flowers in water. It is procured pure from the hives of the +native bees, found in cavities of rocks, and the hollow branches of +trees. The method of discovering the hive is ingenious. Having caught one +of the honey bees, which in size exceeds very little the common house +fly, the native sticks a piece of feather or white down to it with gum, +and then letting it go, sets off after it as fast as he can: keeping his +eye steadily fixed upon the insect, he rushes along like a madman, +tumbling over trees and bushes that lie in his way, but rarely losing +sight of his object, until conducted to its well-filled store, he is +amply paid for all his trouble. The honey is not so firm as that of the +English bee, but is of very fine flavour and quality. + +White ants are dug in great numbers out of their nests in the ground, +which are generally found in the scrubs. They are a favourite food of the +natives in the spring of the year. The females only are used, and at a +time just before depositing their eggs. They are separated from the dirt +that is taken up with them, by being thrown into the air, and caught +again upon a trough of bark. + +The eggs of birds are extensively eaten by the natives, being chiefly +confined to those kinds that leave the nest at birth, as the leipoa, the +emu, the swan, the goose, the duck, etc. But of others, where the young +remain some time in the nest after being hatched, the eggs are usually +left, and the young taken before they can fly. The eggs of the leipoa, or +native pheasant, are found in singular-looking mounds of sand, thrown up +by the bird in the midst of the scrubs, and often measuring several yards +in circumference. The egg is about the size of the goose egg, but the +shell is extremely thin and fragile. The young are hatched by the heat of +the sand and leaves, with which the eggs are covered. Each egg is +deposited separately, and the number found in one nest varies from one to +ten. + +One nest that I examined, and that only a small one, was twelve yards in +circumference, eighteen inches high, and shaped like a dome. It was +formed entirely of sand scraped up by the bird with its feet. Under the +centre of the dome, and below the level of the surrounding ground was an +irregular oval hole, about eighteen inches deep, and twelve in diameter. +In this, the eggs were deposited in different layers among sand and +leaves; on the lower tier was only one egg, on the next two, at a depth +of four or five inches from the ground. All the eggs were placed upon +their smaller ends, and standing upright. The colour of the egg is a dark +reddish pink; its length, three inches six-tenths; breadth, two inches +two-tenths; circumference, lengthwise, ten inches, and across, seven +inches two-tenths. The eggs appear to be deposited at considerable +intervals. In the nest alluded to, two eggs had only been laid sixteen +days after it was discovered, at which time there had been one previously +deposited. The bird is shaped like a hen pheasant, of a brownish colour, +barred with black, and its weight is about four pounds and a half. + +The eggs of the emu are rather smaller than those of the ostrich. They +are of a dark green colour and the shell is very thick. They are +deposited by the bird almost upon the ground, in the vicinity of a few +bushes, or tufts of grass, and usually in a country that is tolerably +open; a great many eggs are found in one nest, so that it is generally +looked upon by the natives as a great prize. + +Eggs are eaten in all stages. I have even seen rotten ones roasted, and +devoured with great relish. + +Kangaroos are speared, netted, or caught in pit falls. Four methods of +spearing them are practised. 1st. A native travelling with his family +through the woods, when he sees a kangaroo feeding or sleeping, will +steal silently and cautiously upon it, keeping, as he advances, a tree or +shrub between himself and the animal, or holding up before him, if he be +in an open place, a large branch of a tree, until sufficiently near to +throw the fatal weapon. 2ndly. Two natives get upon the track of a +kangaroo, which they follow up perseveringly even for two or three days, +sleeping upon it at night, and renewing their pursuit in the morning, +until, at last, the wearied animal, fairly tired out by its relentless +pursuers, is no longer able to fly before them, and at last becomes a +prize to the perseverance of the hunters. 3rdly. A small hut of reeds is +made near the springs, or water holes, in those districts, where water is +scarce; and in this, or in the top of a tree, if there be one near, the +native carefully conceals himself, and patiently waits until his game +comes to drink, when he is almost sure to strike it with his spear, +seldom quitting his lurking place without an ample remuneration for his +confinement. 4thly. A large party of men go out early in the morning, +generally armed with barbed spears, and take their stations upon ground +that has been previously fixed upon in a large semicircle. The women and +children, with a few men, then beat up, and fire the country for a +considerable extent, driving the game before them in the direction of the +persons who are lying in wait, and who gradually contract the space they +had been spread over, until they meet the other party, and then closing +their ranks in a ring upon the devoted animals, with wild cries and +shouts they drive them back to the centre as they attempt to escape, +until, at last, in the conflict, many of them are slaughtered. At other +times, the ground is so selected as to enable them to drive the game over +a precipice, or into a river, where it is easily taken. Netting the +kangaroo does not require so large a party; it is done by simply setting +a strong net (mugn-ko) across the path, which the animal is +accustomed to frequent, and keeping it in its place by long sticks, with +a fork upon the top. A few natives then shew themselves in a direction +opposite to that of the net, and the kangaroo being alarmed, takes to his +usual path, gets entangled in the meshes, and is soon despatched by +persons who have been lying in wait to pounce upon him. + +Pitfalls are also dug to catch the kangaroo around the springs, or pools +of water they are accustomed to frequent. These are covered lightly over +with small sticks, boughs, etc. and the animal going to drink, hops upon +them, and falls into the pit without being able to get out again. I have +only known this method of taking the kangaroo practised in Western +Australia, between Swan River and King George's Sound, + +The emu is taken similarly to the kangaroo. It is speared in the first, +third, and fourth methods I have described. It is also netted like the +kangaroo, indeed with the same net, only that the places selected for +setting it are near the entrance to creeks, ravines, flats bounded by +steep banks, and any other place where the ground is such as to hold out +the hope, that by driving up the game it may be compelled, by surrounding +scouts, to pass the place where the net is set. When caught the old men +hasten up, and clasping the bird firmly round the neck with their arms, +hold it or throw it on the ground, whilst others come to their assistance +and despatch it. This is, however, a dangerous feat, and I have known a +native severely wounded in attempting it; a kick from an emu would break +a person's leg, though the natives generally keep so close to the bird as +to prevent it from doing them much harm. + +The emu is frequently netted by night through a peculiarity in the habits +of the bird, that is well-known to the natives, and which is, that it +generally comes back every night to sleep on one spot for a long time +together. Having ascertained where the sleeping place is, the natives set +the net at some little distance away, and then supplying themselves with +fire-sticks, form a line from each end of the net, diverging in the +distance. The party may now be considered as forming two sides of a +triangle, with the net at the apex and the game about the middle of the +base; as soon as the sides are formed, other natives arrange themselves +in a line at the base, and put the bird up. The emu finding only one +course free from fire-sticks, viz. that towards the net or apex of the +triangle, takes that direction, and becomes ensnared. + +Opossums are of various kinds and sizes. They inhabit the hollows of +trees, or sometimes the tops, where they make a house for themselves with +boughs. They are also found in the holes of rocks. They are hunted both +in the day-time and by moon-light. During the day the native, as he +passes along, examines minutely the bark of the trees, to see whether any +marks have been left by the claws of the animal in climbing on the +previous night. If he finds any he is sure that an opossum is concealed, +either in that tree or one adjoining. The way he distinguishes whether +the marks are recently made or otherwise is, by examining the appearance +of the bark where the wound is, if fresh it is white, has rough edges, or +has grains of sand adhering to it; if otherwise it is dry and brown, and +free from loose particles. Having ascertained that an opossum has +recently been there, he then ascends the tree to look for it; this, if +the tree be in a leaning position, or has a rough bark, is not difficult +to him, and he rarely requires any other aid than his hands and feet; but +if the bark be smooth, and the tree straight, or of very large +dimensions, he requires the assistance of his stone hatchet, or of a +strong sharp-pointed stick, flattened on one side near the point (called +in the Adelaide dialect, "Wadna," in that of Moorunde "Ngakko,"); with +this instrument a notch is made in the bark about two feet above the +ground. In this the small toes of the left foot are placed, the left arm +is employed in clasping the trunk of the tree, and the right in cutting +another notch for the right foot, about two feet above the first; but a +little to one side of it, the wadna or ngakko is now stuck firmly in the +bark above, and serves to enable him to raise the body whilst gaining the +second notch, into which the ball of the great toe of the right foot is +placed, and the implement liberated to make a third step on the left +side, and so on successively until the tree is ascended. The descent is +made in the same manner, by clasping the tree, and supporting the feet in +the notches. The principle of climbing in the way described, appears to +consist in always having three points of contact with the tree, either +two arms and one leg, or two legs and one arm. + +Having got up the tree, the native proceeds to search for any holes there +may be in its trunk, or among the boughs; these vary from one foot to +nine, or more, in depth, for the whole trunk itself is sometimes hollow. +To ascertain in which hole the opossum is, the native drops in a pebble +or a piece of bark, or a broken bit of stick, and then applying his ear +to the outside, listens for the rustling motion made by the animal in +shifting its position, when disturbed by what has been dropped upon it. A +stick is sometimes made use of, if the hole be not very deep, for the +same purpose, after inserting it in the hole, and twisting the rough end +round and withdrawing it, he looks to see if any fur is left on the +point, if so, the animal is there, but if the point of the stick shews no +fur, he goes to the next hole or tree, and so on until he finds it. + +If not very far in the hole the native puts in his arm, and draws it out +by the tail, striking its head violently against the tree to prevent its +biting him, as soon as it is clear of the orifice; if the hole be deep, +the furthest point to which the animal can recede is ascertained, and an +opening made near it with whatever implement he may be using. If the +whole trunk of the tree, or a large portion of it be hollow, a fire is +made in the lower opening, which soon drives out the game. + +When opossums are hunted by moonlight, the native dog is useful in +scenting them along the ground where they sometimes feed, and in guiding +the native to the tree they have ascended, when alarmed at his approach. +They are then either knocked down with sticks or the tree is ascended as +in the day time. + +Flying squirrels are procured in the same way as opossums. The sloth, +which is an animal as large as a good sized monkey, is also caught among +the branches of the larger scrub-trees, among which it hides itself; but +it is never found in holes. + +Wallabies are of many kinds, and are killed in various ways. By hunting +with bwirris, by nets, by digging out of the ground; the larger sorts, as +rock wallabies, by spearing, and several kinds by making runs, into which +they are driven. In hunting with bwirris (a short heavy stick with a knob +at one end) a party of natives go out into the scrub and beat the bushes +in line, if any game gets up, the native who sees it, gives a peculiar +"whir-rr" as a signal for the others to look out, and the animal is at +once chased and bwirris thrown at him in all directions, the peculiar +sound of the "whir-rr" always guiding them to the direction he has taken. +It rarely happens that an animal escapes if the party of natives be at +all numerous. + +In netting the wallabies, a party of seven or eight men go in advance, +with each a net of from twenty to forty feet long, and when they arrive +near the runs, usually made use of by these animals, a favourable spot is +selected, and the nets set generally in a line and nearly together, each +native concealing himself near his own net. The women and children who, +in the mean time had been making a considerable circuit, now begin to +beat amongst the bushes with the wind, shouting and driving the wallabies +before them towards the nets, where they are caught and killed. + +Other species of the wallabie burrow in the ground like rabbits, and are +dug out. The large rock-wallabies are speared by the natives creeping +upon them stealthily among the rugged rocks which they frequent, on the +summits of precipitous heights which have craggy or overhanging cliffs. + +In making runs for taking the wallabie, the natives break the branches +from the bushes, and laying them one upon another, form, through the +scrubs, two lines of bush fence, diverging from an apex sometimes to the +extent of several miles, and having at intervals large angles formed by +the fence diverging. At the principal apex and at all the angles or +corners the bushes are tied up, and a hole in the fence left like the run +of a hare. At each of these a native is stationed with his bwirris, and +the women then beating up the country, from the base of the triangle +drive up the game, which finding themselves stopped by the bush fence on +either side, run along in search of an opening until the first angle +presents itself, when they try to escape by the run, and are knocked on +the head by the native guarding it. + +Native companions and swans are sometimes speared or killed with bwirris; +the latter are also caught easily in the water holes or lakes when +moulting, as they are then unable to fly. Pelicans are caught in nets or +whilst asleep in the water, by natives wading in and seizing them by the +legs. + +Wild dogs are speared, but young ones are often kept and tamed, to assist +in hunting, in which they are very useful. The wombat is driven to his +hole with dogs at night, and a fire being lighted inside, the mouth is +closed with stones and earth. The animal being by this means suffocated, +is dug out at convenience. + +Birds are killed on the wing, with bwirris, or whilst resting on the +ground, or in the water, or upon branches of trees. They are also taken +by spearing, by snaring, by noosing, and by netting. In spearing them the +natives make use of a very light reed spear (kiko), which is pointed with +hard wood, and projected when used, with the nga-waonk or throwing +stick. They resort to the lagoons or river flats, when flooded, and +either wading or in canoes, chase and spear the wild fowl. The +kiko is thrown to a very great distance, with amazing rapidity and +precision, so that a native is frequently very successful by this method, +particularly so when the young broods of duck and other wild fowl are +nearly full grown, but still unable to fly far. Getting into his canoe, +the native paddles along with extraordinary celerity after his game, +chasing them from one side of the lagoon to the other, until he loads +himself with spoil. + +Ducks and teal are caught by snaring, which is practised in the following +manner. After ascertaining where there is a shelving bank to any of the +lagoons, which is frequented by these birds, and upon which there is +grass, or other food that they like near the edges, the natives get a +number of strong reeds, bend them in the middle, and force the two ends +of each into the ground, about seven inches apart, forming a number of +triangles, with their uppermost extremities about five or six inches from +the ground. From these, strings are suspended with slip nooses, and when +a sufficient number are set, the natives go away, to let the ducks come +up to feed. This they soon do; and whilst poking their heads about in +every direction a great many push them through the snares and get hung. + +Noosing waterfowl is another general and very successful mode of taking +them. It is performed by a native, with a tat-tat-ko, or long rod, +tapering like a fishing rod, but longer, and having a piece of string at +the end, with a slip noose working over the pliant twig which forms the +last joint of the rod. [Note 74: Plate 4, fig. 1. (not reproduced in this +etext)] This being prepared, and it having been ascertained where +the birds are, the native binds a quantity of grass or weeds around +his head, and then taking his long instrument, plunges into the water +and swims slowly and cautiously towards them, whilst they see nothing +but a tuft of grass or weeds coming floating towards them, of which +they take no notice, until coming close upon them he gently raises +the tapering end of the instrument, and carefully putting the noose over +the head of the bird, draws it under water towards him. After taking it +out of the noose, he tucks its head in his belt, or lets it float on the +water, whilst he proceeds to catch another, or as many more as he can +before the birds take the alarm at the struggles of their companions, and +fly away. A windy day is generally selected for this employment, when the +water is ruffled by waves. On such occasions a skilful native will secure +a great many birds. + +Netting birds remains to be described, and is the most destructive mode +of taking them of any that is practised. Geese, ducks, teal, widgeons, +shags, pelicans, pigeons, and others are procured in this way. The method +adopted is as follows:--a large square or oblong net, (kue-rad-ko) from +thirty to sixty feet broad, and from twenty to forty deep, is formed by +lacing together pieces of old fishing nets, or any others, made of light +twine, that they may have. A strong cord is then passed through the +meshes of one end, and tied at both extremes of the net. The natives then +go down to a lagoon of moderate width, where two tall trees may be +standing opposite to each other on different sides, or they select an +opening of a similar kind among the trees on the bank of the river, +through which the ducks, or other birds, are in the habit of passing when +flying between the river and the lagoons. An old man ascends each of the +trees, and over the topmost branch of both lowers the end of a strong +cord passing through the net. The other end is tied near the root of each +tree, and serves for the native, who is stationed there, to raise or +lower the net as it may be required. When set, the ropes are hauled +tight, and the net dangles in the air between the two trees, hanging over +the lagoon, or dry passage, as the case may be. All being ready, a native +is left holding each end of the rope, and others are stationed at +convenient places near, with little round pieces of bark in their hands +to throw at the birds, and drive them onwards as they approach the net. +The women are then sent to put the birds up, and they come flying through +the open space towards the net, not dreaming of the evil that awaits +them; as they approach nearer, the two natives at the trees utter a +shrill whistle, resembling the note of the hawk, upon which the flock, +which usually consists of ducks, lower their flight at once, and +proceeding onwards, strike full against the net, which is instantly +lowered by the men attending to it, and the birds are left struggling in +the water, or on the ground, entangled in its meshes, whilst the natives +are busy paddling in their canoes, or scampering towards the net on the +ground, to wring their necks off, and get the instrument of destruction +raised again, to be ready for the next flight that may come. Should the +birds fly too high, or be inclined to take any other direction, little +pieces of bark are thrown above them, or across their path, by the +natives stationed for that purpose. These circling through the air, make +a whirring noise like the swoop of the eagle when darting on his prey, +and the birds fancying their enemy upon them, recede from the pieces of +bark, and lowering their flight, become entangled in the net. Early in +the morning, late in the evening, and occasionally in the night, this +work is conducted, with the greatest success, though many are caught +sometimes in the day. + +As many as fifty birds are taken in a single haul. I have myself, with +the aid of a native, caught thirty-three, and many more would have been +got, but that the net was old, and the birds broke through it before they +could be all killed. On other occasions, I have been out with the +natives, where a party of five or six have procured from twenty to thirty +ducks, on an average, daily, for many days successively. In these +occupations the natives make use of a peculiar shrill whistle to frighten +down the birds; it is produced by pulling out the under lip with the +fore-finger and thumb, and pressing it together, whilst the tongue is +placed against the groove, or hollow thus formed, and the breath strongly +forced through. Whistling is also practised in a variety of other ways, +and has peculiar sounds well known to the natives, which indicate the +object of the call. It is used to call attention, to point out that game +is near, to make each other aware of their respective positions in a +wooded country, or to put another on his guard that an enemy is near, +etc., etc. + +Such is an outline of some of the kinds of food used by the natives, and +the modes of procuring it as practised in various parts of Australia +where I have been. There is an endless variety of other articles, and an +infinite number of minute differences in the ways of procuring them, +which it is unnecessary to enter upon in a work which professes to give +only a general account of the Aborigines, their manners, habits, and +customs, and not a full or complete history, which could only be compiled +after the observation of many years devoted exclusively to so +comprehensive a subject. + +In the preparation and cooking of their food, and in the extent to which +this is carried, there are almost as many differences as there are +varieties of food. Having no vessels capable of resisting the action of +fire, the natives are unacquainted with the simple process of boiling. +Their culinary operations are therefore confined to broiling on the hot +coals, baking in hot ashes, and roasting, or steaming in ovens. The +native oven is made by digging a circular hole in the ground, of a size +corresponding to the quantity of food to be cooked. It is then lined with +stones in the bottom, and a strong fire made over them, so as to heat +them thoroughly, and dry the hole. As soon as the stones are judged to be +sufficiently hot, the fire is removed, and a few of the stones taken, and +put inside the animal to be roasted if it be a large one. A few leaves, +or a handful of grass, are then sprinkled over the stones in the bottom +of the oven, on which the animal is deposited, generally whole, with hot +stones, which had been kept for that purpose, laid upon the top of it. It +is covered with grass, or leaves, and then thickly coated over with +earth, which effectually prevents the heat from escaping. Bark is +sometimes used to cover the meat, instead of grass or leaves, and is in +some respects better adapted for that purpose, being less liable to let +dirt into the oven. I have seen meat cooked by the natives in this +manner, which, when taken out, looked as clean and nicely roasted as any +I ever saw from the best managed kitchen. + +If the oven is required for steaming food, a process principally applied +to vegetables and some kinds of fruits, the fire is in the same way +removed from the heated stones, but instead of putting on dry grass or +leaves, wet grass or water weeds are spread over them. The vegetables +tied up in small bundles are piled over this in the central part of the +oven, wet grass being placed above them again, dry grass or weeds upon +the wet, and earth over all. In putting the earth over the heap, the +natives commence around the base, gradually filling it upwards. When +about two-thirds covered up all round, they force a strong sharp-pointed +stick in three or four different places through the whole mass of grass +weeds and vegetables, to the bottom of the oven. Upon withdrawing the +stick, water is poured through the holes thus made upon the hissing +stones below, the top grass is hastily closed over the apertures and the +whole pile as rapidly covered up as possible to keep in the steam. The +gathering vegetable food, and in fact the cooking and preparing of food +generally, devolves upon the women, except in the case of an emu or a +kangaroo, or some of the larger and more valuable animals, when the men +take this duty upon themselves. + +In cooking vegetables, a single oven will suffice for three or four +families, each woman receiving the same bundles of food when cooked, +which she had put in. The smaller kinds of fish and shell-fish, birds and +animals, frogs, turtle, eggs, reptiles, gums, etc., are usually broiled +upon the embers. Roots, bark of trees, etc., are cooked in the hot ashes. +Fungi are either eaten raw or are roasted. The white ant is always eaten +raw. The larvae of insects and the leaves of plants are either eaten raw +or in a cooked state. The larger animals, as the kangaroo, emu, native +dog, etc. and the larger fishes, are usually roasted in the oven. + +In preparing the food for the cooking process a variety of forms are +observed. In most animals, as the opossum, wallabie, dog, kangaroo, etc. +the the bones of the legs are invariably broken, and the fur is singed +off; a small aperture is made in the belly, the entrails withdrawn, and +the hole closed with a wooden skewer, to keep in the gravy whilst +roasting. The entrails of all animals, birds, and fishes, are made use +of, and are frequently eaten whilst the animal itself is being prepared. +Most birds have the feathers pulled or singed off, they are then thrown +on the fire for a moment or two and when warm are withdrawn, skinned and +the skin eaten. The meat is now separated on each side of the breast +bone, the limbs are disjointed and thrown back, and the bird is placed +upon the fire, and soon cooked, from the previous dissection it had +undergone, and from hot coals being put above it. + +The smaller fish and reptiles are simply thrown upon the fire, sometimes +gutted, at other times not. The larger fish are divided into three +pieces, in the following manner. The fish is laid on its side, and a +longitudinal cut made from the head to within three or four inches of the +tail, just above where the ribs are joined to the back bone, these are +separated by a sharp pointed stick, and the same done on the other side; +a transverse incision is then made near the root of the tail, the gills +are separated from the head, the fleshy part covering the back dissected +from one to two inches thick, over the whole surface left between the +longitudinal cuts that had been made in the sides, and extending from the +head to the transverse incision near the tail. The divisions then consist +of three pieces, one comprising the head, backbone, and tail, another the +fleshy part that covered the back, and the third the belly and sides. The +last is the most prized of the three. This method of dividing the fish is +well adapted for ensuring rapid preparation in the process of cooking; it +is also well suited for satisfying the respective owners and claimants; +the three pieces being, if not quite equal in size, sufficiently so for +the purpose of partition. + +There are many usages in force among the natives respecting the +particular kinds of food allowed to be eaten at different ages; +restrictions and limitations of many kinds are placed upon both sexes at +different stages of life. What is proper to be eaten at one period, is +disallowed at another, and vice versa. And although laws of this nature +appear to be in force throughout the whole continent, there appear to be +occasional differences of custom as to restriction in regard to both food +and age. It also appears that there are more restrictions placed upon the +females, until past the age of child-bearing, than upon the males. + +Infants are not often weaned until between two and three years old; but +during this time any food is given to them which they can eat, except +those kind of vegetables which are likely to disagree with them. No +restrictions are placed upon very young children of either sex, a portion +being given to them of whatever food their parents may have. About nine +or ten years appears to be the age at which limitations commence. Boys +are now forbidden to eat the red kangaroo, or the female or the young +ones of the other kinds; the musk duck, the white crane, the bandicoot, +the native pheasant, (leipoa, meracco), the native companion, some kinds +of fungi, the old male and female opossum, a kind of wallabie (linkara), +three kinds of fish (toor-rue, toitchock, and boolye-a), the black duck, +widgeon, whistling duck, shag (yarrilla), eagle, female water-mole +(nee-witke), two kinds of turtles (rinka and tung-kanka), and some other +varieties of food. + +When young men they are disallowed the black duck, the widgeon, the +whistling duck, the emu, the eggs of the emu, a fish called kalapko, the +red kangaroo, the young of other kinds of kangaroo, if taken from the +pouch; a kind of shag called yarrilla, the snake (yarl-dakko), the white +crane, the eagle, a kind of water-mole (nee-witke), two kinds of turtle +(rinka and tung-kanka), the musk-duck, the native dog, the large grub dug +out of the ground (ronk), a vegetable food called war-itch (being that +the emu feeds upon), the native companion, bandicoot, old male opossum, +wallabie (linkara), coote, two fishes (toor-rue and toit-chock), etc. etc. + +Married men, until from thirty-five to forty years of age, are still +forbidden the red kangaroo, the young of any kangaroo from the pouch, the +fish kelapko, the shag yarrilla, the coote, the white crane, the turtle +rinka, the native companion, the eagle, etc. + +Young females, before the breasts are fully developed, are disallowed the +young of any of the kangaroo species if taken from the pouch, the red +kangaroo, the white crane, the bandicoot, the native companion, the old +male opossum, the wallabie (linkara), the shag (yarrilla), the eagle, etc. + +Full grown young females are not allowed to eat the male opossum, the +wallabie (linkara), the red kangaroo, the fish kelapko, the black duck, +the widgeon, the whistling duck, the coote, the native companion, two +turtles (rinka and tung-kanka), the emu, the emu's egg, the snake +(yarl-dakko), cray-fish which may have deformed claws, the female or the +young from the pouch of any kangaroo, the musk duck, the white crane, the +bandicoot, the wild dog, two kinds of fish (toor-rue and toitchock), the +shag (yarrilla), the water mole (neewitke), the ground grub (ronk), the +vegetable food eaten by the emu (war-itch), etc. When menstruating, they +are not allowed to eat fish of any kind, or to go near the water at all; +it being one of their superstitions, that if a female, in that state, +goes near the water, no success can be expected by the men in fishing. +Fish that are taken by the men diving under the cliffs, and which are +always females about to deposit their spawn, are also forbidden to the +native women. + +Old men and women are allowed to eat anything, and there are very few +things that they do not eat. Among the few exceptions are a species of +toad, and the young of the wombat, when very small, and before the hair +is well developed. + + + + +Chapter IV. + + + +PROPERTY IN LAND--DWELLINGS--WEAPONS--IMPLEMENTS--GOVERNMENT--CUSTOMS-- +SOCIAL RELATIONS--MARRIAGE--NOMENCLATURE. + + +It has generally been imagined, but with great injustice, as well as +incorrectness, that the natives have no idea of property in land, or +proprietary rights connected with it. Nothing can be further from the +truth than this assumption, although men of high character and standing, +and who are otherwise benevolently disposed towards the natives, have +distinctly denied this right, and maintained that the natives were not +entitled to have any choice of land reserved for them out of their own +possessions, and in their respective districts. + +In the public journals of the colonies the question has often been +discussed, and the same unjust assertion put forth. A single quotation +will be sufficient to illustrate the spirit prevailing upon this point. +It is from a letter on the subject published in South Australian Register +of the 1st August, 1840:--"It would be difficult to define what +conceivable proprietary rights were ever enjoyed by the miserable savages +of South Australia, who never cultivated an inch of the soil, and whose +ideas of the value of its direct produce never extended beyond obtaining +a sufficiency of pieces of white chalk and red ochre wherewith to bedaub +their bodies for their filthy corrobberies." Many similar proofs might be +given of the general feeling entertained respecting the rights of the +Aborigines, arising out of their original possession of the soil. It is a +feeling, however, that can only have originated in an entire ignorance of +the habits, customs, and ideas of this people. As far as my own +observation has extended, I have found that particular districts, having +a radius perhaps of from ten to twenty miles, or in other cases varying +according to local circumstances, are considered generally as being the +property and hunting-grounds of the tribes who frequent them. These +districts are again parcelled out among the individual members of the +tribe. Every male has some portion of land, of which he can always point +out the exact boundaries. These properties are subdivided by a father +among his sons during his own lifetime, and descend in almost hereditary +succession. A man can dispose of or barter his land to others; but a +female never inherits, nor has primogeniture among the sons any peculiar +rights or advantages. Tribes can only come into each other's districts by +permission, or invitation, in which case, strangers or visitors are +always well treated. The following extract from Captain Grey's work gives +the result of that gentlemen's observations in Western Australia, +corroborated by Dr. Lang's experience of the practice among the natives +of New South Wales, (vol. ii. p. 232 to 236.) + + +"TRADITIONAL LAWS RELATIVE TO LANDED PROPERTY.--Landed property does not +belong to a tribe, or to several families, but to a single male; and the +limits of his property are so accurately defined that every native knows +those of his own land, and can point out the various objects which mark +his boundary. I cannot establish the fact and the universality of this +institution better than by the following letter addressed by Dr. Lang, +the Principal of Sydney College, New South Wales, to Dr. Hodgkin, the +zealous advocate of the Aboriginal Races: + +"LIVERPOOL, 15th Nov. 1840. + +"My Dear Friend,--In reply to the question which you proposed to me some +time ago, in the course of conversation in London, and of which you have +reminded me in the letter I had the pleasure of receiving from you +yesterday, with the pamphlets and letters for America, viz.--'Whether the +Aborigines of the Australian continent have any idea of property in +land,' I beg to answer most decidedly in the affirmative. It is well +known that these Aborigines in no instance cultivate the soil, but +subsist entirely by hunting and fishing, and on the wild roots they find +in certain localities (especially the common fern), with occasionally a +little wild honey; indigenous fruits being exceedingly rare. The whole +race is divided into tribes, more or less numerous, according to +circumstances, and designated from the localities they inhabit; for +although universally a wandering race with respect to places of +habitation, their wanderings are circumscribed by certain well-defined +limits, beyond which they seldom pass, except for purposes of war or +festivity. In short, every tribe has its own district, the boundaries of +which are well known to the natives generally; and within that district +all the wild animals are considered as much the property of the tribe +inhabiting, or rather ranging on, its whole extent, as the flocks of +sheep and herds of cattle, that have been introduced into the country by +adventurous Europeans, are held by European law and usage the property of +their respective owners. In fact, as the country is occupied chiefly for +pastoral purposes, the difference between the Aboriginal and the European +ideas of property in the soil is more imaginary than real, the native +grass affording subsistence to the kangaroos of the natives, as well as +to the wild cattle of the Europeans, and the only difference indeed +being, that the former are not branded with a particular mark like the +latter, and are somewhat wilder and more difficult to catch. Nay, as the +European regards the intrusion of any other white man upon the +CATTLE-RUN, of which European law and usage have made him the possessor, +and gets it punished as a trespass, the Aborigines of the particular +tribe inhabiting a particular district, regard the intrusion of any other +tribe of Aborigines upon that district, for the purposes of kangaroo +hunting, etc. as an intrusion, to be resisted and punished by force of +arms. In short, this is the frequent cause of Aboriginal, as it is of +European wars; man, in his natural state, being very much alike in all +conditions--jealous of his rights, and exceedingly pugnacious. It is +true, the European intruders pay no respect to these Aboriginal divisions +of the territory, the black native being often hunted off his own ground, +or destroyed by European violence, dissipation, or disease, just as his +kangaroos are driven off that ground by the European's black cattle; but +this surely does not alter the case as to the right of the Aborigines. + +"But particular districts are not merely the property of particular +tribes; particular sections or portions of these districts are +universally recognised by the natives as the property of individual +members of these tribes; and when the owner of such a section or portion +of territory (as I ascertained was the case at King George's Island) has +determined on burning off the grass on his land, which is done for the +double purpose of enabling the natives to take the older animals more +easily, and to provide a new crop of sweeter grass for the rising +generation of the forest, not only all the other individuals of his own +tribe, but whole tribes from other districts are invited to the hunting +party, and the feast and dance, or corrobory that ensue; the wild animals +on the ground being all considered the property of the owner of the land. +I have often heard natives myself tell me, in answer to my questions on +the subject, who were the Aboriginal owners of particular tracts of land +now held by Europeans; and indeed this idea of property in the soil, FOR +HUNTING PURPOSES, is universal among the Aborigines. They seldom complain +of the intrusion of Europeans; on the contrary, they are pleased at their +SITTING DOWN, as they call it, on their land: they do not perceive that +their own circumstances are thereby sadly altered for the worse in most +cases; that their means of subsistence are gradually more and more +limited, and their numbers rapidly diminished: in short, in the +simplicity of their hearts, they take the frozen adder in their bosom, +and it stings them to death. They look for a benefit or blessing from +European intercourse, and it becomes their ruin. + +"If I had a little more leisure I would have written more at length, and +in a style more worthy of your perusal; but you may take it as certain, +at all events, that the Aborigines of Australia HAVE an idea of property +in the soil in their native and original state, and that that idea is, in +reality, not very different from that of the European proprietors of +sheep and cattle, by whom they have, in so many instances, been +dispossessed, without the slightest consideration of their rights or +feelings. + +"Indeed, the infinity of the native names of places, all of which are +descriptive and appropriate, is of itself a PRIMA FACIE evidence of their +having strong ideas of property in the soil; for it is only where such +ideas are entertained and acted on, that we find, as is certainly the +case in Australia, NULLUM SINE NOMINE SAXUM. + +"I am, my dear Friend, +"Your's very sincerely, +"JOHN DUNMORE LANG. + +"To Dr. Hodgkin." + + +The dwellings of the Aborigines are simple, of a very temporary +character, and requiring but little skill or labour to construct them. In +the summer season, or when the weather is fine, they consist of little +more than a few bushes laid one upon the other, in the form of a +semicircle, as a protection from the wind, for the head, which is laid +usually close up to this slight fence. In the winter, or in cold or wet +weather, the semicircular form is still preserved, but the back and sides +are sheltered by branches raised upon one end, meeting at the top in an +arch, and supported by props in front, the convex part being always +exposed to the wind. The sizes of these huts depends upon the facilities +that may be afforded for making them, the number of natives, and the +state of the weather. + +[Note 75: "Travelled northerly for 20 miles; at evening encamped at +Tarcone, adjacent to the station (then being formed) of Drs. Bernard +and Kilgour. The greater part of the servants at this establishment +had been convicts, they were in a state of great insubordination. +My native attendants pointed out an extensive weir, 200 feet long +and five feet high; they said it was the property of a family, +and emphatically remarked, "that white men had stolen it and their +country;" the Yow-ew-nil-lurns were the original inhabitants. "Tapoe," +the Mount Napier of Mitchell, is an isolated hill of volcanic +formation; the crater is broken down on the west side to its base. +The great swamp is skirted by low hills and well grassed open forest +land; the natives are still the undisputed occupants, no white men +having been there to dispossess them. The people who occupy the +country have fixed residences; at one village were 13 large huts, +they are warm and well constructed, in shape of a cupola or "kraal;" a +strong frame of wood is first made, and the whole covered with thick +turf, with the grass inwards; there are several varieties; those like a +kraal are sometimes double, having two entrances, others are +demicircular; some are made with boughs and grass, and last are the +temporary screens; one hut measured 10 feet diameter by five feet high, +and sufficiently strong for a man on horseback to ride over. + +"Left early, attended by Pevay, to reconnoitre the country. In the +marshes numerous trenches were again met with; these resembled more the +works of civilized than of savage men; they were of considerable extent; +one continuous treble line measured 500 yards in length, two feet in +width, and from 18 inches to two feet in depth; these treble dikes led to +extensive ramified watercourses; the whole covered an area of at least +ten acres, and must have been done at great cost of labour to the +Aborigines, a convincing proof of their persevering industry. These are +the most interesting specimens of native art I had seen; thousands of +yards had been accomplished; the mountain streams were made to pass +through them. In fishing, the natives use the arabine or eel-pot of +platted grass, from nine to twelve feet in length. On the elevated ground +were some of the largest ash-hills I had seen, and must have been the +work of generations; one measured 31 yards in length, 29 in width, and +two in height, with hollow cavities for the natives' bivouacs and camping +places."--"Extract from Mr. Robinson's Letter, copied from papers +relative to Australian Aborigines, printed for the House of Commons, +August 1844, p. 240."] + +Sometimes each married man will have a hut for himself, his wives, and +family, including perhaps occasionally his mother, or some other near +relative. At other times, large long huts are constructed, in which, from +five to ten families reside, each having their own separate fire. Young +unmarried men frequently unite in parties of six or eight, and make a hut +for themselves. The materials of which the huts are composed, are +generally small branches or boughs of trees, covered in wet weather with +grass, or other similar material. At other times, and especially if +large, or made in wet weather, they are formed of thick solid logs of +wood, piled and arranged much in the same way as the lighter material, +but presenting an appearance of durability that the others do not +possess. In this case they are generally well covered over with grass, +creeping plants, or whatever else may appear likely to render them +waterproof. In travelling through the country, I have found that where +bushes or shrubs abounded, I could at any time in an hour or two, by +working hard, make myself a hut in which I could lie down, perfectly +secure from any rain. The natives, of course, have much less difficulty +in doing this, from their great skill and constant practice. In many +parts of New Holland that I have been in, bark is almost exclusively used +by the natives, for their huts; where it can be procured good it is +better than any thing else. I have frequently seen sheets of bark twelve +feet long, and eight or ten feet wide, without a single crack or flaw, in +such cases one sheet would form a large and good hut; but even where it +is of a far inferior description, it answers, by a little system in the +arrangement, better than almost any thing else. Projecting, or +overhanging rocks, caverns, hollows of trees, etc. etc., are also +frequently made use of by the natives for lodging houses in cold or wet +weather. When hostile parties are supposed to be in the neighbourhood, +the natives are very cautious in selecting secret and retired places to +sleep. They go up on the high grounds, back among scrubs, or encamp in +the hollows of watercourses, or where there are dense bushes of +polygonum, or close belts of reeds; the fires are very small on these +occasions, and sometimes none are made; you may thus have a large body of +natives encamped very near you without being conscious of it. I have been +taken by a native to a camp of about twenty people in a dense belt of +reeds, which I had gone close by without being aware of their presence, +although I could not have been more than three or four yards from some of +them when I passed. + +It has already been remarked, that where many natives meet together, the +arrangements of their respective huts depends upon the direction they +have come from. In their natural state many customs and restrictions +exist, which are often broken through, when they congregate in the +neighbourhood of European settlements. + +Such is the custom requiring all boys and uninitiated young men to sleep +at some distance from the huts of the adults, and to remove altogether +away in the morning as soon as daylight dawns, and the natives begin to +move about. This is to prevent their seeing the women, some of whom may +be menstruating; and if looked upon by the young males, it is supposed +that dire results will follow. Strangers are by another similar rule +always required to get to their own proper place at the camp, by going +behind and not in front of the huts. In the same way, if young males meet +a party of women going out to look for food, they are obliged to take a +circuit to avoid going near them. It is often amusing to witness the +dilemma in which a young native finds himself when living with Europeans, +and brought by them into a position at variance with his prejudices on +this point. All the buildings of the natives are necessarily from their +habits of a very temporary character, seldom being intended for more than +a few weeks' occupation, and frequently only for a few days. By this time +food is likely to become scarce, or the immediate neighbourhood unclean, +and a change of locality is absolutely unavoidable. When the huts are +constructed, the ground is made level within, any little stumps of +bushes, or plants, stones, or other things being removed, and grass, +reeds, or leaves of trees frequently gathered and spread over the bottom, +to form a dry and soft bed; this and their opossum cloak constitute the +greatest degree of luxury to which they aspire. Occasionally native men, +in very cold weather, are both without huts and clothing of any kind. In +this case, many small fires are made (for the natives never make a large +one), by which they keep themselves warm. I have often seen single +natives sleep with a fire at their head, another at their feet, and one +on either side, and as close as ever they could make them without burning +themselves; indeed, sometimes within a very few inches of their bodies. + +The weapons of the natives are simple and rudimental in character, but +varied in their kind and make, according to the purposes for which they +may be required, or the local circumstances of the district in which they +are used. The spear, which is the chief weapon of offence over all the +known parts of the continent, is of two kinds, one kind is used with the +throwing stick, and the other is thrown out of the hand; of each there +are four varieties that I am acquainted with. Of those launched with the +throwing stick there are--1, the kiko, or reed spear, pointed with hard +wood; 2, the kiero, or hard wood spear, with about two feet of the +flower-stem of the grass-tree jointed to the upper end; 3, a similar +weapon, with five or six jags cut in the solid wood of the point upon one +side; and 4, the light hard wood spear of Port Lincoln, and the coast to +the eastward, where a single barb is spliced on at the extreme point with +the sinew of the emu or the kangaroo: each spear averages from six to +eight feet in length, and is thrown with facility and precision to +distances, varying from thirty to one hundred yards, according to the +kind made use of, and the skill of the native in using it. + +Of the large spear there is--1, the karkuroo, or smooth heavy spear, made +of the gum-scrub; 2, the same description of weapon, barbed with +fragments of flint or quartz; 3, another variety, having five or six jags +cut at the point, upon one side; and 4, a similar weapon, with the same +number of barbs cut upon both sides of the point: each of them is from +twelve to fourteen feet long, and is thrown with most deadly force and +accuracy to distances of from thirty to forty feet. The fishing spear has +already been described. The Nga-wa-onk, or throwing stick is from +twenty to twenty-six inches in length, and is of a very similar character +throughout the continent, varying a little in width or shape according to +the fashion of particular districts. It consists of a piece of hard wood, +broad about the middle, flattened and sometimes hollowed on the inside, +and tapering to either extremity; at the point the tooth of a kangaroo is +tied and gummed on, turning downwards like a hook; the opposite end has a +lump of pitch with a flint set in it, moulded round so as to form a knob, +which prevents the hand from slipping whilst it is being used, or it is +wound round with string made of the fur of the opossum for the same +purpose. In either case it is held by the lower part in the palm of the +hand, clasped firmly by the three lower fingers, with its upper part +resting between the fore-finger and the next; the head of the spear, in +which is a small hole, is fitted to the kangaroo tooth, and then coming +down between the fore-finger and thumb, is firmly grasped for throwing; +the arm is then drawn back, the weapon levelled to the eye, a quivering +motion given to it to steady it, and it is hurled with a rapidity, force, +and precision quite incredible. + +The Wangn or wangno (the boomerang of Eastern and kiley of Western +Australia) is another simple but destructive weapon, in the hands of the +native. It consists of a thin, flat, curved piece of hard wood, about two +feet long, made out of the acacia pendula or gum-scrub, the raspberry-jam +wood, or any other of a similar character, a branch or limb is selected +which has naturally the requisite curve (an angle from one hundred to one +hundred and thirty degrees) and is dressed down to a proper shape and +thickness, and rounded somewhat at the bend, those whose angles are +slightly obtuse, are usually thrown with the sharp edge against the wind, +and go circling through the air with amazing velocity, and to a great +height and distance, describing nearly a parabola and descending again at +the foot of the person who throws them; those which have the largest +obtuse angle are thrown generally against the ground from which they +bound up to a great height, and with much force. With both, the natives +are able to hit distant objects with accuracy, either in hunting or in +war; in the latter case this weapon is particularly dangerous, as it is +almost impossible, even when it is seen in the air, to tell which way it +will go, or where descend. I once nearly had my arm broken by a wangno, +whilst standing within a yard of the native who threw it, and looking out +purposely for it. + +The (katta twirris) or two-edged sword is a formidable weapon, used among +the tribes to the north of Adelaide, exclusively for war; another weapon, +common among the same tribes, is the katta, a round chisel-pointed stick, +about three feet long, and used principally in pitched battles between +two individuals. + +Another weapon is an angular piece of hard wood, pointed and shaped very +much like a miner's pick, the longer or handle-end being rounded and +carved, to give a firmer grasp; another dreadful weapon, intended for +close combat, is made out of hard wood, from two to three feet long, +straight and with the handle rounded and carved for the grasp, which has +an immense pointed knob at the end; the bwirri, is also a weapon of hard +wood about two feet long, rather slight and merely smoothed in the +handle, with a round knob at the extremity, it is principally thrown, and +with very great precision; but is more generally used after game than in +warfare. + +The shield (tar-ram) is made out of the bark or wood of the gum-tree, and +varies in shape and device, the ordinary shield is about two or two and a +half feet long, from eight to eighteen inches across, and tapering from +the middle towards the extremities, two holes are made near the centre, +through which a piece of wood is bent for a handle; shields are always +carved and painted in time of war. + +The implements made use of by the natives are not very numerous, and +their general characteristics are nearly the same all over the continent. +The native hatchet is made of a very hard greenish-looking stone, rubbed +to an edge on either side; it is fixed in the cleft of a stick, or a +branch is doubled round it, and either tied or gummed to prevent its +slipping. The throwing sticks have generally a sharp piece of quartz or +flint gummed on at the lower end, which is used as a knife or chisel; +flints or muscle shells are used for skinning animals, dissecting food, +cutting hair, etc. + +The ngak-ko, a strong chisel-pointed stick, from three to four feet long, +is used for dissecting the larger animals and fish, for digging grubs out +of the trees, for making holes to get out opossums, etc., for stripping +bark, ascending trees, for cutting bark canoes, and a variety of other +useful purposes. The rod for noosing ducks, (tat-tat-ko) and other wild +fowl, is about sixteen feet long, and consists, in its lower part, for +the first ten feet, of hard wood, tapering like an ordinary spear, to +this is cemented with resin, a joint of tolerably strong reed about +sixteen inches long, at the upper end of this is inserted and cemented +with wax, a tapering rod of hard wood, three feet long and very similar +to the top joint of a fly-fishing rod, to this is spliced a fine springy +and strong top, of about eighteen inches in length, at the end of which +is bound a piece of fine strong cord, which works with a running noose +upon the tapering end of the instrument. Needles are made from the fibula +of the emu or kangaroo, and are pointed at one end by being rubbed on a +stone, they are used in sewing as we use a shoemaker's awl, the hole is +bored and the thread put through with the hand; the thread is made of the +sinews of the emu and kangaroo. The netting needle is a little round bit +of stick or reed, about the size of a lead pencil, round which the string +is wound, no mesh is used, the eye and hand enabling the native to net +with the utmost regularity, speed, and neatness. + +The nets for hunting, for carrying their effects or food, for making +belts for the waist, or bandages for the head, are all made from the +tendons or fur of animals, or from the fibres of plants. In the former, +the sinews of the kangaroo or emu, and the fur of opossums and other +similar animals, are used; in the latter, a species of rush, the fibres +of the root of the mallow, the fibres of the root of the broad flag-reed, +etc. and in some parts of the continent, the fibrous bark of trees. The +materials are prepared for use by being soaked in water and carded with +the teeth and hands, or by being chewed or rubbed. + +String is made by the fibres being twisted, and rubbed with the palm of +the hand over the naked thighs, and is often as neatly executed as +English whip-cord, though never consisting of more than two strands,--the +strands being increased in thickness according to the size of the cord +that may be required. Nets vary in size and strength according to the +purposes for which they are required; the duck net (kew-rad-ko) has +already been described, as also the kenderanko, or small net for diving +for fish, and the taendilly net, for diving with under the rocks for the +larger fish; the kenyinki is a net with very small meshes, and set out +with a wooden bow, for catching shrimps and other very small fish. There +are also, a wharro, a large hoop-net for catching small cray-fish; a +lenko, or small net for hanging round the neck, to put muscles, +cray-fish, frogs, etc. in; a rocko, or large net bag, used by the women +for carrying their worldly effects about with them; the kaar-ge-rum, or +net for the waistband; the rad-ko, or fishing net, which is a regular +seine for catching fish, about fifty or sixty feet in length, and varying +in depth according to the place where it is to be used; the emu or +kangaroo net (nunko) is very strong, with meshes from five to six inches +square; it is made of cord as thick as a large quill, and its length is +from a hundred to a hundred and thirty feet, and depth about five feet +when set. The wallabie net is about thirty feet long, of strong cord, and +when set about eighteen inches high. The size of the meshes of all the +nets depends upon the game to be taken; generally they are small. Neat, +and variously striped baskets and mats are made by the women of certain +tribes, from rushes, or a broad-leaved description of grass. The kallater +is a round basket, wide at the base, and tapering upwards; its size +varies. The poola-danooko is a very pretty looking, flat, oval basket, +adapted for laying against the back. The poneed-ke is a large, flat, +circular mat, worn over the back and shoulders, and when tied by a band +round the waist affords a lodging for an infant. Large bags or wallets +are also made of kangaroo skins, with the fur outside, and small ones of +the skins of lesser animals with the fur inside. Skins are prepared for +making cloaks by pegging them tight out upon the ground soon after they +are taken off the animal, when dry, cold ashes or dust are thrown in, to +absorb any grease that may have exuded. If the weather is damp, or the +native is in a hurry, they are pegged out near the fire; after drying, +the smaller skins are rubbed with stones to make them flexible, or are +scored or ornamented with various devices, cut with a flint or shell on +the skin side; the larger skins have their inner layers shaved off by +flints, shells, or implements of wood. Opossums, wallabies, young +kangaroos, etc. are skinned sometimes by simply making a slit about the +head, through which the rest of the body is made to pass; the skins are +turned inside out, and the ends of the legs tied up, and are then ready +for holding water, and always form part of the baggage of natives who +travel much about, or go into badly watered districts. I have seen these +skins (lukomb) capable of holding from two to three gallons of water: the +fur is always inside. The karko is a small spade of wood, used by the +natives north of Adelaide for digging up grubs from the ground. The canoe +or "mun" is a large sheet of bark cut from the gum-tree, carefully +lowered to the ground, and then heated with fire until it becomes soft +and pliable, and can be moulded into form, it is then supported by wooden +props, to keep it in shape, until it becomes hard and set, which is in +about twenty-four hours, though it is frequently used sooner. On its +being launched, sticks or stretchers are placed across each end and in +the middle, to prevent the bark from contracting or curling up with +exposure to the air. A large canoe will hold seven or eight people +easily; it is often twenty feet long. The following is a description of +an ordinary one for fishing:--length fifteen feet, width three feet, +depth eight inches, formed out of a single sheet of bark, with one end a +little narrower than the other and pointing upwards. This end is paddled +first; the bottom is nearly flat, and the canoe is so firm, that a person +can take hold of one side, and climb into it from the water without +upsetting it. It is paddled along with the long pine-spear moo-aroo, +described as being used in fishing at night by firelight. In propelling +it the native stands near the centre, pushing his moo-aroo against the +water, first on one side and then on the other; in shallow water one end +of the moo-aroo is placed on the bottom, and the canoe so pushed along. +The natives are well acquainted with the use of fire, for hardening the +points of their weapons or softening the wood to enable them to bend +them. In the former case, the point is charred in the fire, and scraped +with a shell or flint to the precise shape required; in the latter, their +spears, and other similar weapons, are placed upon hot ashes, and bent +into form by pressure. It is a common practice among many of the tribes +to grease their weapons and implements with human fat, taken from the +omentum, either of enemies who have been killed, or of relations who have +died. Spears, and other offensive arms, are supposed to possess +additional powers if thus treated; and nets and other implements for +procuring game are imagined to become much more effectual in ensnaring +prey. In setting nets, too, the natives have a practice of taking up a +handful of water to the mouth, and then squirting it out over the net, in +a shower of spray, this they think is a powerful charm to ensure the fish +being caught. + +There can hardly be said to be any form of government existing among a +people who recognize no authority, and where every member of the +community is at liberty to act as he likes, except, in so far as he may +be influenced by the general opinions or wishes of the tribe, or by that +feeling which prompts men, whether in civilised or savage communities to +bend to the will of some one or two persons who may have taken a more +prominent and leading part than the rest in the duties and avocations of +life. Among none of the tribes yet known have chiefs ever been found to +be acknowledged, though in all there are always some men who take the +lead, and whose opinions and wishes have great weight with the others. + +Other things being equal, a man's authority and influence increase among +his tribe in proportion to his years. To each stage of life through which +he passes is given some additional knowledge or power, and he is +privileged to carry an additional number of implements and weapons, as he +advances in life. An old grey-headed man generally carries the principal +implements and weapons, either for war or sorcery; many of the latter the +women and children are never allowed to see, such as pieces of +rock-crystal, by which the sorcerer can produce rain, cause blindness, or +impart to the waters the power of destroying life, etc.; sacred daggers +for causing the death of their enemies by enchantment; the +moor-y-um-karr or flat oval piece of wood which is whirled round +the camp at nights, and many others of a similar nature. + +I have not, however, found that age is invariably productive of +influence, unless the individual has previously signalized himself among +his people, and taken up a commanding position when youth and strength +enabled him to support his pretensions, and unless he be still in full +possession of vigour of mind and energy of character, though no longer +endowed with personal strength. The grey-head appears to be usually +treated with respect as long as the owner is no incumbrance to those +around him, but the moment he becomes a drag, every tie is broken, and he +is at once cast off to perish. Among many tribes with which I have been +acquainted, I have often noticed that though the leading men were +generally elderly men from forty-five to sixty years old, they were not +always the oldest; they were still in full vigour of body and mind, and +men who could take a prominent part in acting as well as counselling. I +am inclined, therefore, to think that the degree of estimation in which +any native is held by his fellows, or the amount of deference that may be +paid to his opinions, will in a great measure depend upon his personal +strength, courage, energy, prudence, skill, and other similar +qualifications, influenced, perhaps, collaterally by his family +connections and the power which they possess. + +Each father of a family rules absolutely over his own circle. In his +movements and arrangements he is uncontrolled, yet, as a matter of +policy, he always informs his fellows where he is going, what he is going +to do, how long he will be absent, when he will meet them again, etc. It +thus happens that, although a tribe may be dispersed all over their own +district in single groups, or some even visiting neighbouring tribes, yet +if you meet with any one family they can at once tell you where you will +find any other, though the parties themselves may not have met for weeks. +Some one or other is always moving about, and thus the news of each +other's locality gets rapidly spread among the rest. The principal +occupation, indeed, of parties when they meet, is to give and receive +information relative to neighbouring families or tribes. In cases of +sudden danger or emergency, the scattered groups are rapidly warned or +collected by sending young men as messengers, or by raising signal smokes +in prominent positions. + +In an assembly of the tribe, matters of importance are generally +discussed and decided upon, by the elder men, apart from the others. It +not unfrequently happens, however, that some discontented individual will +loudly and violently harangue the whole tribe; this usually occurs in the +evening, and frequently continues for hours together; his object being +generally either to reverse some decision that has been come to, to +excite them to something they are unwilling to do, or to abuse some one +who is absent. Occasionally he is replied to by others, but more +frequently allowed uninterruptedly to wear himself out, when from sheer +exhaustion he is compelled to sit down. + +Occasionally the tribe is addressed by its most influential members in +the language of admonition or advice, and though at such times a loud +tone and strong expressions are made use of, there is rarely any thing +amounting to an order or command; the subject is explained, reasons are +given for what is advanced, and the result of an opposite course to that +suggested, fully pointed out; after this the various members are left to +form their own judgments, and to act as they think proper. + +In their domestic relations with one another polygamy is practised in its +fullest extent. An old man having usually from one to four wives, or as +many as he can procure. + +The females, and especially the young ones are kept principally among the +old men, who barter away their daughters, sisters, or nieces, in exchange +for wives for themselves or their sons. Wives are considered the absolute +property of the husband, and can be given away, or exchanged, or lent, +according to his caprice. A husband is denominated in the Adelaide +dialect, Yongarra, Martanya (the owner or proprietor of a wife). Female +children are betrothed usually from early infancy, and such arrangements +are usually adhered to; still in many cases circumstances occur +frequently to cause an alteration; but if not, the girls generally go to +live with their husbands about the age of twelve, and sometimes even +before that. Relatives nearer than cousins are not allowed to marry, and +this alliance does not generally take place. Female orphans belong to the +nearest male relative, as also does a widow, instead of to the nearest +male relative of the husband, as was found to be the case in Western +Australia by Captain Grey. Two or three months generally elapse before +the widow goes to another husband; but if the wife dies, the man takes +another as soon as he can get one. If a woman, having young children, +join another tribe, the children go with her; but I am not aware whether +they would remain permanently attached to that tribe or not. Brothers +often barter their sisters for wives for themselves, but it can only be +done with the parents' consent, or after their death. If a wife be +stolen, war is always continued until she is given up, or another female +in her place. + +There is no ceremony connected with the undertaking of marriage. In those +cases where I have witnessed the giving away of a wife, the woman was +simply ordered by the nearest male relative in whose disposal she was, to +take up her "rocko," the bag in which a female carries the effects of her +husband, and go to the man's camp to whom she had been given. Marriage is +not looked upon as any pledge of chastity, indeed no such virtue is +recognised. + +[Note 76: Foeminae sese per totam pene vitam prostituunt. Apud plurimas +tribus juventutem utriusque sexus sine discrimine concumbere in usus est. +Si juvenis forte indigenorum coetum quendam in castris manentem adveniat +ubi quaevis sit puella innupta, mos est; nocte veniente et cubantibus +omnibus, illam ex loco exsurgere et juvenem accedentem cum illo per +noctem manere unde in sedem propriam ante diem redit. Cui foemina sit, +eam amicis libenter praebet; si in itinere sit, uxori in castris manenti +aliquis ejus supplet ille vires. Advenis ex longinquo accedentibus +foeminas ad tempus dare hospitis esse boni judicatur. Viduis et foeminis +jam senescentibus saepe in id traditis, quandoque etiam invitis et +insciis cognatis, adolescentes utuntur. Puellae tenerae a decimo primum +anno, et pueri a decimo tertio vel quarto, inter se miscentur. Senioribus +mos est, si forte gentium plurium castra appropinquant, viros noctu huic +inde transeuntes, uxoribus alienis uti et in sua castra ex utraque parte +mane redire. Temporis quinetiam certis, machina quaedam ex ligno ad formam +ovi facta, sacra et mystica, uam foeminas aspicere haud licitam, decem +plus minus uncias longa et circa quatuor lata insculpta ac figuris +diversis ornata, et ultimam perforata partem ad longam (plerumque e +crinibus humanis textam) inscrendam chordam cui nomen "Mooyumkarr," extra +castra in gyrum versata, stridore magno e percusso aere facto, libertatem +coeundi juventuti esse tum concessam omnibus indicat. Parentes saepe +infantum, viri uxorum quaestum corporum faciunt. In urbe Adelaide panis +praemio parvi aut paucorum denariorum meretrices fieri eas libenter +cogunt. Facile potest intelligi, amorem inter nuptos vix posse esse +grandem, quum omnia quae ad foeminas attinent, hominum arbitrio +ordinentur et tanta sexuum societati laxitas, et adolescentes quibus ita +multae ardoris explendi dantur occasiones, haud magnopere uxores, nisi ut +servas desideraturos. + +But little real affection consequently exists between husbands and wives, +and young men value a wife principally for her services as a slave; in +fact when asked why they are anxious to obtain wives, their usual reply +is, that they may get wood, water, and food for them, and carry whatever +property they possess. In 1842 the wife of a native in Adelaide, a girl +about eighteen, was confined, and recovered slowly; before she was well +the tribe removed from the locality, and the husband preferred +accompanying them, and left his wife to die, instead of remaining to +attend upon her and administer to her wants. When the natives were gone, +the girl was removed to the mission station, to receive medical +attendance, but eventually died. In the same year an old woman who broke +her thigh was left to die, as the tribe did not like the trouble of +carrying her about. Parents are treated in the same manner when helpless +and infirm. [Note 77 at end of para.] In 1839 I found an aged man +left to die, without fire or food, upon a high bare hill beyond the +Broughton. In 1843 I found two old women, who had been abandoned in +the same way, at the Murray, and although they were taken every care +of when discovered, they both died in about a week afterwards. No age +is prescribed for matrimony, but young men under twenty-five years +of age do not often obtain wives, there are exceptions, however, +to this: I have seen occasionally young men of seventeen or eighteen +possessing them. When wives are from thirty-five to forty years of age, +they are frequently cast off by the husbands, or are given to the +younger men in exchange for their sisters or near relatives, if such are +at their disposal. + +[Note 77: "Practised by the American Indians."--Catlin, vol. i. p. 216. + +"The early life of a young woman at all celebrated for beauty is generally +one continued series of captivity to different masters, of ghastly wounds, +of wanderings in strange families, of rapid flights, of bad treatment from +other females amongst whom she is brought a stranger by her captor; and +rarely do you see a form of unusual grace and elegance, but it is marked +and scarred by the furrows of old wounds; and many a female thus wanders +several hundred miles from the home of her infancy, being carried off +successively to distant and more distant points."] + +Women are often sadly ill-treated by their husbands or friends, in +addition to the dreadful life of drudgery, and privation, and hardship +they always have to undergo; they are frequently beaten about the head, +with waddies, in the most dreadful manner, or speared in the limbs for +the most trivial offences. No one takes the part of the weak or the +injured, or ever attempts to interfere with the infliction of such severe +punishments. + +Few women will be found, upon examination, to be free from frightful +scars upon the head, or the marks of spear-wounds about the body. I have +seen a young woman, who, from the number of these marks, appeared to have +been almost riddled with spear wounds. Upon this point Captain Grey +remarks, vol. ii. p. 249. + +The menses commence to flow among the native females at an earlier age +than among Europeans, frequently beginning at about twelve; they are also +subject to many irregularities in their periodical return, arising +probably from the kind of life they lead and the nature of the diet upon +which they live. I have known cases where this irregularity has extended +to three months. Child-bearing does not commence often before the age of +sixteen, nor have I ever noticed pregnant women under that age. In +inquiries conducted by Mr. Moorhouse among the natives of Adelaide, that +gentleman ascertained, that as many as nine children have occasionally +been born to one woman; that the average number is about five; but that +each mother only reared an average of two. At childbirth, the placenta, +which is considered as sacred, is carefully put away from the reach of +the dogs as soon as thrown off from the uterus, and the female is up and +following her usual avocations a very few hours after the accouchement. +Instances have occurred of women sitting up, and asking for food an hour +after confinement, though wet with rain, and having very little fire. Two +days after it, I have seen a woman walking two or three miles, and going +out to look for food in her usual manner. Infanticide is very common, and +appears to be practised solely to get rid of the trouble of rearing +children, and to enable the woman to follow her husband about in his +wanderings, which she frequently could not do if encumbered with a child. +The first three or four are often killed; no distinction appears to be +made in this case between male or female children. Half-castes appear to +be always destroyed. + +The nomenclature of the natives is a subject of considerable difficulty, +and is at present involved in much obscurity and uncertainty, so many +different practices obtaining, and so many changes of name occurring to +some individuals during the course of their life. In the Adelaide +district, and among the tribes to the north, Mr. Moorhouse has found that +numerical names are given to children when first born, in the order of +birth, a variation in the termination constituting the distinction of +name for male or female, thus:-- + + + IF MALE. IF FEMALE. +The 1st child would be called Kertameru Kertanya +2nd child would be called Warritya Warriarto +3rd child would be called Kudnutya Kudnarto +4th child would be called Monaitya Monarto +5th child would be called Milaitya Milarto +6th child would be called Marrutya Marruarto +7th child would be called Wangutya Wangwarto +8th child would be called Ngarlaitya Ngarlarto +9th child would be called Pouarna Ngarlarto + + +These are given at birth; but a short time after another name is added, +which is derived from some object in nature, as a plant, animal, or +insect. This name continues until after marriage and the birth of the +first child, upon which the father takes the name of this child, and has +the word binna or spinna, (an adult,) affixed, as Kadli; name of a child, +Kadlitpinna, the father of Kadli; the mother is called Kadli ngangki, or +mother of Kadli, from ngangki, a female or woman. The names of the father +and mother are changed at the birth of every child in the same manner. + +At Moorunde, and among many other tribes, I have not found any numerical +names to be given at birth, the first name usually being that derived +from some object in nature. This is occasionally changed after marriage +and the birth of a child; as among the Adelaide or northern natives, the +father taking the name of the child with the affix of imbe or nimbe +(implying father), as Kartul, a child's name, Kartulnimbe the father of +Kartul, Memparne, a child's name, Memparnimbe the father of Memparne. +This paidronymic is not, however, always adhered to in preference to the +original name; thus Memparnimbe is as often called by his former name of +Tenberry as his paidronymic; he is also called occasionally Worrammo, +from his being left-handed. Neither have I found the name of the parent +change at the birth of every child; thus Memparnimbe has other children, +younger than Memparne, as Warrulan, Timarro, etc. yet he is never called +Warrulanimbe, Timarronimbe, etc. The mother's name, similarly to that of +the father, is also occasionally altered to that of the child, with the +affix of arwer, or emarwer, as Kartulemarwer, the mother of Kartul, +Memparnemarwer, the mother of Memparne, yet is the original name of the +mother as often used as the paidronymic. Old men are frequently called by +the name of the place which belongs to them, with the affix of bookola +thus Mooroondooyo Bookola is the old man who owns Mooroonde, etc. + +At other times nicknames are given to natives, and so generally made use +of by the others that the proper or original name becomes almost lost. +Thus a native named Marloo, from a habit he had of looking about him and +saying, "I see, I see," is called Nairkinimbe, or the father of seeing. +Another named Ngalle-ngalle is called Eukonimbe, the father of eukodko, +from his being very fond of the crayfish of that name, and so on. Other +local appellations are given referring to some peculiarity of personal +appearance, Parn-gang-gapko, the baldheaded, Towang Makkeroo, the +broken-thighed, etc. Others again refer to family bereavements, as Roo +ptootarap, a father without children, Parntomakker, a childless mother, +Parnko, an orphan, Wirrang, one who has lost a brother, Rockootarap, one +whose wife is dead, Thaltarlpipke, an unmarried man, Rartchilock, one who +owns a wife, Rang, a widow, Waukerow, an unmarried woman, etc. These are +all distinctions, which though readily discoverable by a person tolerably +well versed in the dialect, or long resident among the same natives, +present many difficulties, and lead to many mistakes, amongst casual +inquirers, or those whose pursuits do not keep them long at the place of +their inquiries. There are others which are still more difficult to be +understood, from the almost utter impossibility of learning (with any +reasonable sacrifice of time) the language with sufficient accuracy to +enable the inquirer thoroughly to comprehend the meanings of the proper +names, and deduce the roots from which they are derived. + +Even among the Adelaide tribes, where there appears to be a greater +uniformity in the system of nomenclature than I have met with any where +else, and where Mr. Moorhouse has devoted more time and attention to the +subject than perhaps any other person, there are still difficulties and +uncertainties. Thus an Adelaide boy about the age of ten, is called by +the name of Koar (the crow), from early infancy, but between ten and +twelve, after undergoing one of their ceremonies, the name was changed to +Mannara, (which I believe means the crow's nest). According, however, to +the usual system adopted, this boy's name ought to have remained Koar, +until, by becoming a married man and a father, it gave way to a +paidronymic. + +There is another subject somewhat analogous to that of nomenclature, and +about which still less is known;--that of every native adopting some +object in creation as his crest, or tiende. The same thing is noticed by +Captain Grey in his narrative (vol. ii. p. 228). + + +"But as each family adopts some animal or vegetable, as their crest or +sign, or KOBONG as they call it, I imagine it more likely, that these +have been named after the families, than that the families have been +named after them. + +"A certain mysterious connection exists between a family and its KOBONG, +so that a member of a family will never kill an animal of the species, to +which his KOBONG belongs, should he find it asleep; indeed, he always +kills it reluctantly, and never without affording it a chance to escape. +This arises from the family belief, that some one individual of the +species is their nearest friend, to kill whom would be a great crime, and +to be carefully avoided. Similarly, a native who has a vegetable for his +KOBONG, may not gather it under certain circumstances, and at a +particular period of the year." + +From the foregoing quotation, it is apparent that very little difference +exists in the custom as practised in Western and Southern Australia. In +the former, however, there appears to be an unwillingness to destroy the +object represented by the kobong or tiende that I have never observed in +the latter. But very little appears to be known on this subject at +present, as far as regards the reason for assuming the tiende, or its +connection with the individual or family it may represent. The same +tiende seems to descend from a father to his children; but I have been +told occasionally of instances where such has not been the case. There +are several striking differences between the customs and habits of the +Aborigines of Western Australia, narrated by Captain Grey, and those in +force among the tribes I have myself been best acquainted with in +Southern or South-eastern Australia. One singular peculiarity is +described by Captain Grey. + + +"One of the most remarkable facts connected with the natives, is that +they are divided into certain great families, all the members of which +bear the same names, as a family or second name: the principal branches +of these families, so far as I have been able to ascertain, are the + + Ballaroke + Tdondarup + Ngotak + Nagarnook + Nogonyuk + Mongalung + Narrangur. + +"But in different districts the members of these families give a local +name to the one to which they belong, which is understood in that +district, to indicate some particular branch of the principal family. The +most common local names are, + + Didaroke + Gwerrinjoke + Maleoke + Waddaroke + Djekoke + Kotejumeno + Namyungo + Yungaree. + +"These family names are common over a great portion of the continent; for +instance, on the Western coast, in a tract of country extending between +four and five hundred miles in latitude, members of all these families +are found. In South Australia, I met a man who said that he belonged to +one of them, and Captain Flinders mentions Yungaree, as the name of a +native in the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +"These family names are perpetuated, and spread through the country, by +the operation of two remarkable laws:-- + +"1st. That children of either sex, always take the family name of their +mother. + +"2nd. That a man cannot marry a woman of his own family name." + + +From this it appears that the natives of that part of the country have in +addition to their other ordinary names a family or surname, which is +perpetuated through successive generations on the mother's side. This is +not the case as far as my observations and inquiries have enabled me to +ascertain among the numerous tribes frequenting the Murray river, and Mr. +Moorhouse assures me that he has been equally unable to detect any +coincidence of the kind among the tribes frequenting the district of +Adelaide. + +The division, numbers, and names of the various tribes are also subjects +of difficulty and uncertainty. As far as my researches have yet extended +upon this point, it appears to me, first, that groups of natives have a +distinctive or a local appellation, derived from the particular place +they belong to, as Barmerara maru, the natives frequenting the lake +called Barmera: Moolyoolpero maru, the natives frequenting the lagoon +called Moolyoolko, and so on. Secondly, a general or tribal name, as +Narwijjerook, a native of the tribe so called, which includes the natives +of Barmera and various others in that neighbourhood. Karn-brickolenbola, +a native of the tribe so called, and which includes various groups around +Mooroonde. Thirdly, it appears that wherever a change occurs in the name +of the tribes to which contiguous groups of natives may belong, there is +a corresponding change in the dialect or language spoken; thus the +Narwij-jerook speak a dialect called Narwijjong, the Karn-brickolenbola +tribe the Aiawong dialect, and so on. + +In many of these dialects there appears to be little more difference than +exists among the counties in England. Such is the case up the course of +the Murray from Lake Alexandrina to the Darling; and such Captain Grey +found to be the case throughout a great part of Western Australia. In +others the dialects are so totally unlike one another, that natives, +meeting upon opposite sides of a river, cannot speak to or understand a +word of what each other say, except through the medium of a third +language, namely that spoken by the natives of the river itself, and +which is totally unlike either of the other two. + +This is the case at Moorunde, where three different dialects meet, the +Yakkumban, or dialect spoken by the Paritke tribe, or natives inhabiting +the scrub to the west and north-west of the Murray. The +Boraipar or language of the Arkatko tribe, who +inhabit the scrub to the east of the Murray, and the Aiawong or river +dialect, extending, with slight variations, from the junction of the +Murray and Lake Alexandrina to the Darling. + + + + +Chapter V. + + + +CEREMONIES AND SUPERSTITIONS--FORMS OF BURIAL--MOURNING CUSTOMS--RELIGIOUS +IDEAS--EMPIRICS, ETC. + + +The ceremonies and superstitions of the natives are both numerous and +involved in much obscurity; indeed it is very questionable if any of them +are understood even by themselves. Almost all the tribes impose +initiatory rites upon the young, through which they must pass from one +stage of life to another, until admitted to the privileges and rights of +manhood. These observances differ greatly in different parts of the +continent, independently of local or distinctive variations indicative of +the tribe to which a native may belong. + +Thus at the Gulf of Carpentaria, the rite of circumcision is performed; +at Swan River, King George's Sound, and nearly three hundred miles to the +eastward of the latter place, no such rite exists. Round the head of the +Great Australian Bight, and throughout the Port Lincoln Peninsula, not +only is this rite performed, but a still more extraordinary one conjoined +with it. [Note 78: "Finditur usque ad urethram a parte inferaa penis."] +Descending the east side of Spencer's and St. Vincent's Gulf, and +around the district of Adelaide, the simple rite of circumcision is +retained. Proceeding but a little farther to the banks of the Murray, and +its neighbourhood, no such ceremony exists, nor have I ever heard of its +having been observed any where on the southeastern, or eastern parts of +the continent. + +So also with respect to tattooing; in one part of the continent it is +adopted, in another it is rejected; when it is practised, there are many +varieties in the form, number, or arrangement of the scars, +distinguishing the different tribes, so that one stranger meeting with +another any where in the woods, can at once tell, from the manner in +which he is tattooed, the country and tribe to which he belongs, if not +very remote. In the Adelaide district, Mr. Moorhouse has observed, that +there are five stages to be passed through, before the native attains the +rank of a bourka, or full grown man. The first is, that from birth to the +tenth year, when he is initiated into the second, or Wilya kundarti, by +being covered with blood, drawn from the arm of an adult; he is then +allowed to carry a wirri for killing birds, and a small wooden spade +(karko) for digging grubs out of the ground. At from twelve to fourteen, +the third stage is entered, by having the ceremony of circumcision +performed, which takes place in the following manner. Early in the +morning, the boys to be circumcised are seized from behind, and a bandage +is fastened over the eyes of each; they are then led away from the +presence of the women and children to a distance of half a mile, when +they are laid on the ground, and covered with a cloak, or skin, so as not +to see what is passing amongst the adults, who proceed with the ceremony. +Three of them now commence limping, and making a peculiar groaning noise, +until they arrive opposite one of the boys, upon whom they seize. The +individual laid hold of, jumps up, and runs off at full speed, as if he +intended to escape; the three, before occupied in limping and groaning, +run with him to prevent this, and after three or four races, all four run +over the place where the boys are covered up, and the boy, who had been +trying to escape, is caught, and laid down near the other boys, and +covered with dust. He is now supposed to be in a state of enchantment, +from which he is aroused by being lifted up by the ears, at the same time +that loud noises are made into them. All the men now, except the sick, +form themselves into a circle, and keep walking round in single file, the +first individual having a katto, or long stick held down his back. After +a few circles this is given to another; a short rest is taken, and then +the whole party rise, except the sick, the inspired men, or sorcerers, +and those upon whom the operation is to be performed, and proceed to a +short distance, the man with the katto down his back leading. When +assembled, they form into a line, and at word of command commence the +peculiar stamping and groaning, beginning at the far end of the line, and +gradually advancing towards the other. During several rounds of this +noise, they advance at each, a little nearer to the boys, who when they +are very near, have their eyes uncovered that they may see the men +approaching. The first man who held the katto, fastens it in the ground, +and all the others coming up, take hold of it, and fall down into a heap. +The boys are then thrown upon the heap of men, and the operation is +performed by men who are supposed to be inspired, or sorcerers. +Immediately after the operation, the boys are taken away from the +presence of all females, and kept upon a vegetable diet until recovered +from its effects. The head is covered with grease, and red ochre, with a +bandage passed round it, and is ornamented with tufts of feathers. The +Yudna, or pubic covering, is worn by the circumcised for some months +after the operation. + +The fourth stage (Wilyaru) is entered about the age of twenty, when the +back, shoulders, arms and chest, are tattooed. He is called ngulte, at +the time of the operation; yellambambettu, when the incisions have begun +to discharge pus; tarkange, when the sores are just healed; mangkauitya, +at the time the cuts begin to rise; and bartamu, when the scars are at +their highest elevation. Each tribe has a distinctive mode of making +their incisions. Some have scars running completely across the chest, +from one axillar to the other, whilst others have merely dotted lines; +some have circles and semicircles formed on the apex of the shoulder, +others small dots only. + +The fifth stage is bourka or full man, and is only attained when the +individual is getting grey-headed. + +Among the Murray natives and contiguous tribes, instead of the rite of +circumcision, a ceremony called wharepin, is performed upon youths from +fourteen to sixteen. Early in the morning some of the male friends of the +boy about to be operated upon, go behind him to seize him, upon which he +sets off running as hard as he can, as if to escape; but being followed +by his pursuers is soon captured and thrown down; he is then raised up +and surrounded by several natives, who hold him and smear him from head +to foot, with red ochre and grease; during this part of the ceremony, a +band of elderly women, generally the mother and other near relatives, +surround the group, crying or lamenting, and lacerating their thighs and +backs with shells or flints, until the blood streams down. When well +ochred all over, the novice is led away by another native, apart from the +rest of the tribe, or if there are more than one, they stand together +linked hand in hand, and when tired sit down upon bunches of green boughs +brought for that purpose, for they are neither allowed to sit on the +ground, nor to have any clothing on; and when they move about they always +carry a bunch of green boughs in each hand. + +They are now ready for the ceremony, which is usually performed by +influential natives of distant tribes, and which generally takes place at +the meetings of these tribes, as in the case of the meeting of the +Moorunde natives, and the Nar-wij-jerook tribe described in Chapter +II.P.220. On that occasion, there were three Moorunde natives to be +operated upon. As soon as the ceremonial of the meeting of the tribes had +been gone through, as already described, the Nar-wij-jerook natives +retired about a hundred yards, and sat down on the ground, the Moorunde +people remaining standing. The three spears which had little nets +attached to them, and which had been brought down by the Nar-wij-jerooks, +were now advanced in front of that tribe, still seated and stuck in a row +in the ground. Three men then got up and seated themselves at the foot of +the three spears, with their legs crossed. Two other natives then went +over to the Moorunde people, to where the three novices stood shaking and +trembling, like criminals waiting for their punishment, seizing them by +the legs and shoulders, and carefully lifting them from the ground, they +carried each in turn, and laid them on their backs at full length upon +green boughs, spread upon the ground in front of the three men sitting by +the spears, so that the head of each rested on the lap of one of the +three. From the moment of their being seized, they resolutely closed +their eyes, and pretended to be in a deep trance until the whole was +over. When all three novices had been laid in their proper position, +cloaks were thrown over them, but leaving the face exposed, and a +Nar-wij-jerook coming to the side of each, carefully lifted up a portion +of the covering and commenced plucking the hair from the pubes. At +intervals, the operators were relieved by others of both sexes, and of +various ages; little children under ten, were sometimes but not +frequently officiating. When all the hair had been pulled out, that +belonging to each native was carefully rolled up in green boughs, the +three lots being put together, and given to one of the wise or inspired +men to be put properly away; bunches of green boughs were now placed +under each arm of the boys as also in their hands, after which several +natives took hold of them, and raised them suddenly and simultaneously to +their feet, whilst a loud gutteral Whaugh was uttered by the other +natives around. They were then disenchanted and the ceremony was over, +but for some time afterwards, the initiated are obliged to sleep away +from the camp, and are not allowed to see the women; their heads and +bodies are kept smeared with red ochre and grease, and tufts of feathers +and kangaroo teeth are worn tied to the hair in front. One of the most +singular circumstances connected with this ceremony, is that the natives +who have officiated never afterwards mention the name of the young men, +nor do the latter ever mention the names of the individuals who have +operated upon them; should the name of either be accidentally mentioned +in the presence of the other, they are greatly annoyed, and at once put +the hand up to the mouth to signify that it must not be spoken. It is +thus often very difficult to find out the names of particular natives, +and strangers would make many mistakes, imagining that they were putting +down the name, when in reality they were marking some phrase, signifying +that his name could not be mentioned by the one applied to. They have no +objection to meet each other after the ceremony, nor do they decline +speaking, but there is this peculiarity in their conduct that if one +gives food, or any thing else to the other, it is either laid on the +ground for him to take, or is given through the intervention of a third +person, in the gentlest and mildest manner possible, whereas to another +native it would be jerked, perhaps much in the same way that a bone is +thrown to a dog. There are other instances in which the names of natives +are never allowed to be spoken, as those of a father or mother-in-law, of +a son-in-law and some cases arising from a connection with each other's +wives. In speaking, therefore, of one another, or introducing persons to +distant natives, a very round about way of describing them has often to +be adopted, yet so intimately are neighbouring tribes acquainted with the +peculiar relations subsisting between the members of each, that there is +rarely any difficulty in comprehending who the individual is that is +alluded to. Among the Adelaide tribes, there is no circumstance but death +that makes them unwilling to mention the name of any of their +acquaintances, and this cause of unwillingness I believe extends equally +all over the continent. + +The ceremony of tattooing is practised among the tribes of the Murray and +its neighbourhood with great circumstantial variety. Some are tattooed +all over the back or breast in rows, some only one half of each or of +one, some are only dotted, others have rings or semicircles round the +upper part of the arms and some are tattooed on the belly, etc. + +Many tribes I have met with in different parts of Australia, have no +tattooing at all, others are marked on the breast by singular looking +scars, occupying a space of six or eight inches each way upon the chest, +these are called "renditch" in the Murray dialect, and are made by fire; +but I have never been able to obtain any satisfactory information +respecting them. These scars are confined to particular tribes whom I +have only met with occasionally, and for a period which did not allow me +the opportunity of making much inquiry into their origin. + +At Encounter Bay, instead of plucking out the hair of the pubes, the +incipient beard is pulled out by the roots, and the youth, as at the +Murray, is smeared from head to foot with red ochre and grease. + +Among the females the only ceremony of importance that I am aware of is +that of tattooing the back, a long and very painful operation. [Note 79 at +end of para.] The method of performing the operation is as follows: +the person whose back is to be tattooed is taken out early in the +morning and squatted on the ground with her back towards the operator +(always a male), and her head bent down between the knees of a strong +old woman who is sitting on the ground for that purpose; the back is +thus presented in the best position to the operator, and the girl, +as long as her head is kept firmly in its position, cannot possibly +arise until all is over. The man who performs the ceremony then +commences by taking hold of a fold of the flesh on the girl's right side, +just above the breech, with his left hand, whilst with his right he +holds a piece of flint or shell, and cuts perpendicular gashes an inch +long, three-sixteenths of an inch deep, and about half an inch apart, +in horizontal lines from right to left quite across the back, the rows +being half an inch or three-quarters distant from each other. + +[Note 79: Hoc plerumque menstruis jam primum venientibus factum est: +saepe autem puellis propter timorem statum suam celantibus, aut aliqua +alia ex causa, opus quod tempore menstruali fieri prorsus necessarium est, +in proxima differtur.] + +This is carried up the whole way from where he commences to the +shoulders, and when freshly done, presents one of the most dreadful +spectacles imaginable, the blood gushes out in torrents, and though +frequently wiped away with grass by some of the women present, is +scarcely removed before the crimson stream flows as profusely as ever. +During the time of the ceremony the mother and other female relations +lament and mourn, whilst they lacerate their bodies with shells. When the +incisions are all made, grass or boughs are warmed at the fire, to wipe +off the blood. The whole scene is most revolting and disgusting; the +ground near where the poor creature sits is saturated with blood, and the +whole back is one mass of coagulated gore. In one case, where I saw this +operation performed upon a girl belonging to the Paritke tribe, she +seemed to suffer much pain. At first, until nearly a row of scars had +been made across the lower part of the back, she bore the operation well, +but as it proceeded, her cries were piteous and unceasing, and before it +was concluded, they became the most heart-rending screams of agony. From +the position in which she was held, however, by the old woman on the +ground (and who, by the way, was her mother,) it was impossible for her +to stir or escape; indeed, had she attempted it, she would probably have +been most cruelly beaten in addition. + +The ceremony occupied three-quarters of an hour, but it was two hours +before the wounds had ceased to bleed, and even then, the dried blood was +not washed off. Two kangaroo teeth, and a tuft of emu feathers were tied +to the girl's hair, and she was smeared over with grease and red ochre, +but was still forbidden to touch food until the morning. + +Many weeks elapse before the wounds heal, and the inconveniences +attending them are removed. + +In another case that I saw, the girl bore the operation most stoically, +until about two-thirds over, when she could stand it no longer, but +screaming out in agony, applied her teeth and nails with such good effect +to the thighs of the old lady who held her down, that the latter was +compelled to release her grasp, and the poor girl got up, vowing she +would not have another incision made. Of course all resistance would have +been futile, or probably have only brought down a fearful chastisement +upon her if she had been alone with her tribe in the bush; but she took +advantage of my presence, and escaped with nearly one-third of the +incisions deficient. At this ceremony many other natives of both sexes, +and of all ages were standing looking on; but so little did they +commiserate the poor creature's sufferings, that the degree of her pain +only seemed to be the measure of their laughter and merriment. + +The girls, however, are always anxious to have this ceremony performed, +as a well tattooed back is considered a great addition to their other +charms, and whenever I have offered to protect them from the cruelty of +their tribe for refusing to submit to it, they have invariably preferred +submitting to the operation. + +The only other ceremonies undergone by the females, are those of having +the belly or arms tattooed, and of having the hair plucked from the pubes +after the death of a child, and sometimes from other causes. + +In the mode of disposing of the dead, and the ceremonials attending it, +there is a difference in almost every tribe. Among the Adelaide natives +as soon as a person dies, a loud wailing cry is raised by the relations +and friends. The body is immediately wrapped up in the skin or clothing +worn during life, and in the course of a day or two, it is placed upon +the wirkatti or bier, which is made of branches crossed so as to form the +radii of a circle, an examination is then entered upon as to the cause of +death, in the following manner. The bier is carried upon the shoulders of +five or six persons, over places where the deceased had been living; +whilst this is going on, a person is placed under the bier, professedly +in conversation with the deceased. He asks, what person killed you? If +the corpse say no one, the inquest ceases; but if it states that some +person has, the bier moves round, the corpse is said to produce the +motion, influenced by kuingo (a fabulous personification of death). If +the alleged murderer be present, the bier is carried round by this +influence, and one of the branches made to touch him. Upon this a battle +is sure to ensue either immediately, or in the course of a day or two. + +At the time of burial the body is removed from the bier, and deposited, +with the head to the west, in a grave from four to six feet deep. +Children under four years are not buried for some months after death. +They are carefully wrapped up, carried upon the back of the mother by +day, and used as a pillow by night, until they become quite dry and +mummy-like, after which they are buried, but the ceremony is not known to +Mr. Moorhouse. + +In the Encounter Bay neighbourhood, four modes of disposing of the dead +obtain, according to Mr. Meyer:--old persons are buried; middle-aged +persons are placed in a tree, the hands and knees being brought nearly to +the chin, all the openings of the body, as mouth, nose, ears, etc. being +previously sewn up, and the corpse covered with mats, pieces of old +cloth, nets, etc. The corpse being placed in the tree, a fire is made +underneath, around which the friends and relatives of the deceased sit, +and make lamentations. In this situation the body remains, unless removed +by some hostile tribe, until the flesh is completely wasted away, after +which the skull is taken by the nearest relative for a drinking cup. + +The third mode is to place the corpse in a sitting posture, without any +covering, the face being turned to the eastward, until dried by the sun, +after which it is placed in a tree. This mode is adopted with those to +whose memory it is intended to shew some respect. The fourth method is to +burn the body; but this is only practised in the case of still-born +children, or such as die shortly after birth. + +Another method practised upon Lake Alexandrina, is to construct a +platform [Note 80 at end of para.], or bier upon high poles of pine, +put upright in the ground upon which the body is placed, bandages being +first put round the forehead, and over the eyes, and tied behind. A bone +is stuck through the nose, the fingers are folded in the palm of the hand, +and the fist is tied with nets, the ends of which are fastened about a +yard from the hands; the legs are put crossing each other. + +[Note 80: "They often deposit their dead on trees and on scaffolds." +--Catlin's AMERICAN INDIANS, vol. ii. p. 10--vide also vol. i. p. 89] + +The lamentations are raised by the natives around, fires are made below, +so that the smoke may ascend over the corpse, and the mourners usually +remain encamped about the place for a great length of time, or until the +body is thoroughly dry, after which they leave it. Mr. Schurman says, "At +Port Lincoln, after the body is put in a grave, and a little earth is +thrown on it; the natives place a number of sticks across its mouth, over +which they spread grass or bushes to prevent the remaining earth from +falling down, so that an empty space of about three feet in depth is left +between the body and the top earth." + +At the Flinders river (Gulf of Carpentaria), Captain Stokes observes, "At +the upper part of Flinders river, a corpse was found lodged in the +branches of a tree, some twenty feet high from the ground; it had three +coverings, first, one of bark, then a net, and outside of all a layer of +sticks." + +On the Murray river, and among the contiguous tribes, many differences +occur in the forms of burial adopted by the various tribes. Still-born +children are buried immediately. Infants not weaned are carried about by +the mother for some months, well wrapped up, and when thoroughly dry, are +put into nets or bags, and deposited in the hollows of trees, or buried. +Children and young people are buried as soon as practicable after death, +and a spearing match generally ensues. + +Old people are also buried without unnecessary delay. I have even seen a +man in the prime of life all ready placed upon the bier before he was +dead, and the mourners and others waiting to convey him to his long home, +as soon as the breath departed. + +In the case of a middle-aged, or an old man, the spearing and fighting +contingent upon a death is always greater than for younger natives. The +burial rites in some tribes assimilate to those practised near Adelaide; +in others I have witnessed the following ceremony:--The grave being dug, +the body was laid out near it, on a triangular bier (birri), stretched +straight on the back, enveloped in cloths and skins, rolled round and +corded close, and with the head to the eastward; around the bier were +many women, relations of the deceased, wailing and lamenting bitterly, +and lacerating their thighs, backs, and breasts, with shells or flint, +until the blood flowed copiously from the gashes. The males of the tribe +were standing around in a circle, with their weapons in their hands, and +the stranger tribes near them, in a similar position, imparting to the +whole a solemn and military kind of appearance. After this had continued +for some time, the male relatives closed in around the bier, the mourning +women renewed their lamentations in a louder tone, and two male relatives +stepped up to the bier, and stood across the body, one at the head, and +one at the foot, facing each other. + +Having cut above the abdomen the strings binding the cloths which were +wound round the body, they proceeded to cut a slit of about ten inches +long, through the swathing cloths above the belly; through this opening, +they removed the arms, which appeared to have been crossed there, laying +them down by the sides, inside the wrappings (for no part was unwound); +having warmed a handful of green boughs over a fire, they thrust them in +through the opening in the cloths, upon the naked belly of the corpse; +after a little while these were removed, and one of their sorcerers made +an incision of about eight inches long in the abdomen. Having pulled out +the entrails and peritoneum, they were turned over, and carefully +examined, whilst the women kept wailing and cutting [Note 81 at end +of para.] themselves more violently than before, and even the men +themselves lamented aloud. When this had been continued for some time, +a portion of the omentum was cut off, wrapped in green leaves, and then +put carefully away in a bag. The entrails were now replaced, a handful +or two of green leaves thrust in above them, the cloths replaced, and the +body again bound up ready for interment. + +[Note 81: Also an American custom.--Catlin, vol. i. p. 90. Lacerating the +flesh at death was expressly forbidden in the Jewish dispensation. It is +practised also in New Zealand.--Vide Dieffenbach.] + +A relative of the deceased now jumped up, with his weapons, violently +excited, and apparently with the intention of spearing some one; but he +was at once restrained by his friends, who informed me that the +investigation had satisfied them that the man had not died through the +agency of sorcery; if he had, it is imagined that a cicatrice would have +been found upon the omentum. Two men now got into the grave, spread a +cloth in the bottom, and over that green boughs. Other natives turned the +bier round, and lifting up the body, gave it to the two in the grave to +lay in its proper position, which was quite horizontal, and with the head +to the west [Note 82 at end of para.], the grave being dug east and west: +green boughs were now thrown thickly into it, and earth was pushed in by +the bystanders with their feet, until a mound had been raised some height +above the ground. All was now over, and the natives began to disperse, +upon which the wild and piercing wail of the mourners became redoubled. + +[Note 82: This appears to be a very general custom, and to be of Eastern +origin. Catlin describes it as always being attended to at the disposal +of the dead by the American Indians. In South Africa, however, Moffat +states (p. 307), "that the corpse is put exactly facing the north."] + +Upon the mounds, or tumuli, over the graves, huts of bark, or boughs, are +generally erected to shelter the dead from the rain; they are also +frequently wound round with netting. Many graves being usually in one +vicinity, and an elevated dry place being selected, the cemeteries often +present a picturesque appearance. Graves are frequently visited by the +women at intervals, for some months, and at such times the wail is +renewed, and their bodies lacerated as at the interment. At Boga Lake, I +saw a grave with a very neat hut of reeds made over it, surmounted by +netting, and having a long curious serpentine double trench, of a few +inches deep, surrounding it; possibly it might have been the burial place +of the native mentioned by Major Mitchell, as having been shot by his +black, Piper, at that lake. + +Nets, but not implements, are sometimes buried with the natives; nor do +the survivors ever like to use a net that has belonged to a man who is +dead. + +There are not any ceremonies attending the burial of young children; and +the male relatives often neglect to attend at all, leaving it altogether +to the women. + +The natives have not much dread of going near to graves, and care little +for keeping them in order, or preventing the bones of their friends from +being scattered on the surface of the earth. + +I have frequently seen them handling them, or kicking them with the foot +with great indifference. On one occasion when out with an old native +looking for horses before it was daylight, I came to a grave of no very +old date, and where the boughs and bushes built over in the form of a hut +were still remaining undisturbed; the weather was extremely cold, and the +old man did not hesitate to ask me to pull down the boughs to make a +fire, but would not do it himself. + +On another occasion when a poor old woman had been deserted by the +natives of Moorunde, and died a few days after being brought up to the +station, I had great difficulty in getting the other natives to bury her, +they would on no account touch the body; but after digging a hole, they +got a long wiry branch of a tree, and one man taking hold of each end +they bent the middle round the old woman's neck, and thus dragged her +along the ground and threw her into the pit like a dog, all the time +violently and continually spitting out in every direction to ward off, as +they said, the infection. + +[Note 83: "He tied a thong to her leg, avoiding the touch of that form +which gave him birth, dragged the corpse to some bushes, and left the +thong because it had been in contact with the body of his mother." +--Moffat's South Africa, p. 306.] + +Sometimes it happens that when a death occurs, the nearest grown up male +relative, whose duty it would be to take the principal part in the +ceremonies, or inflict punishment if evil agency is suspected to have +caused the death, may be absent. In this case he would have to discharge +these duties upon the first occasion of his meeting with the supposed +aggressors. The following is an instance which I witnessed. + +A relative of Tenberry, one of the principal natives of the Murray, had +died when he was absent, and the son of the deceased was too young to +revenge the sorcery which it was imagined had caused his father's death, +it therefore became Tenberry's duty to do this upon the first occasion +that offered. I was with him when the parties first came into the +neighbourhood, and I witnessed the proceedings. Notice having been sent +by Tenberry the evening before, to warn them to be ready, I accompanied +him early in the morning towards the encampment of the natives, situated +in a hollow near the water; when within about a hundred yards we saw from +the rise all the natives seated below us in the valley. Tenberry now +halted, and having taken a hasty survey of the group hung down his head +upon his breast and raised a low mournful lamentation; after a time it +ceased, and the wail was at once replied to and continued by women's +voices in the camp: he now hastily went down to the camp still uttering +his lamentations, and the whole body rose at his approach, and formed a +large open circle around him. The natives who were supposed to have +caused the death of his friend, formed a part of the circle and were +armed with spears; behind them stood the orphan son of the deceased, +probably in the light of an accuser; and behind the son were the widows, +wailing and lamenting bitterly. + +After taking the centre of the circle, Tenberry called for a spear, but +no one offered one, he therefore took a long one from a native in the +ring, who had evidently brought it for that purpose and yielded it +unresistingly. Pacing with this weapon furiously up and down the circle, +he advanced and retreated before the accused, brandishing the spear at +them, and alternately threatening and wailing. No one replied, but the +melancholy dirge was still kept up by the widows in the rear. + +After sufficiently exciting himself in this manner for some time, he +advanced with uplifted spear, and successively repeating his blows +speared four or five persons among the accused natives in the left arm, +each of them pushing forward his arm unflinchingly for the blow as he +advanced upon them. Tenberry now again hung down his head and took up his +lamentation for a short time, after which he paced about rapidly, +vehemently haranguing, and violently gesticulating, and concluded by +ordering all the natives present to separate their camps, and each tribe +to make their own apart. + +Mourning is performed by the men by cutting their beards [Note 84 at end +of para.] and hair, and daubing the head and breast with a white pigment; +among the women, by cutting and burning the hair close off [Note 85 at +end of para.] to the head and plastering themselves with pipe-clay. +In some cases, hot ashes are put upon the head to singe the hair to +its very roots, and they then literally weep "in dust and ashes." Among +some of the Murray tribes, a mourning cap is worn by the women, made two +or three inches thick of carbonate of lime. It is moulded to the head +when moist around a piece of net work; the weight is eight pounds and +a half. (Pl. 1, fig. 17.) + +[Note 84: The custom among the Australians of putting dust or ashes on the +head, of shaving the head, of clipping the beard, and of lacerating the +body at death or in sign of mourning, appears very similar to +the practices among the Israelites in the time of Moses. Vide +Leviticus xix. 27, 28; Leviticus xxi. 5; Jeremiah xiviii. 30, 31, 32; +Revelations xviii. 19, etc.] + +[Note 85: The women among the American Indians also cut off the hair +close to the head as a sign of mourning.--Vide Catlin, vol. i.] + +The lamentations for the dead do not terminate with the burial; +frequently they are renewed at intervals by the women, during late hours +of the night, or some hours before day-break in the morning. Piercingly +as those cries strike upon the traveller in the lonely woods, if raised +suddenly, or very near him, yet mellowed by distance they are soothing +and pleasing, awakening a train of thoughts and feelings, which, though +sad and solemn, are yet such as the mind sometimes delights to indulge +in. The names of the dead are never repeated by the natives among +themselves, and it is a very difficult matter for a European to get them +to break through this custom, nor will they do it in the presence of +other natives. In cases where the name of a native has been that of some +bird or animal of almost daily recurrence, a new name is given to the +object, and adopted in the language of the tribe. Thus at Moorunde, a +favourite son of the native Tenberry was called Torpool, or the Teal; +upon the child's death the appellation of tilquaitch was given to the +teal, and that of torpool altogether dropped among the Moorunde tribe. + +The natives of New Holland, as far as yet can be ascertained, have no +religious belief or ceremonies. A Deity, or great First Cause, can hardly +be said to be acknowledged, and certainly is not worshipped by this +people, who ascribe the creation to very inefficient causes. They state +that some things called themselves into existence, and had the property +of creating others. But upon all subjects of this nature their ideas are +indistinct and indefinite, as they are not naturally a reasoning people, +and by no means given to the investigation of causes or their effects; +hence, if you inquire why they use such and such ceremonies, they reply, +our fathers did so, and we do it; or why they believe so and so, our +fathers told us it was so. [Note 86 at end of para.] They are not fond of +entering upon abstruse subjects, and when they are induced to do it, it is +more than possible, from our imperfect acquaintance with their language, +and total ignorance of the character and bent of their thoughts upon such +points, that we are very likely to misunderstand and misrepresent their +real opinions. It appears to me that different tribes give a different +account of their belief, but all generally so absurd, so vague, +unsatisfactory, and contradictory, that it is impossible at present +to say with any certainty what they really believe, or whether they +have any independent belief at all. Mr. Moorhouse, who has taken +great pains in his inquiries among the natives around Adelaide upon +questions of this nature, states that they believe in a Soul or Spirit +(itpitukutya), separate and distinct altogether from the body, which +at death goes to the west, to a large pit, where the souls of all men go. +When all are dead, the souls will return to their former place of +residence, go to the graves of their forsaken bodies, and inquire, +are these the bodies that we formerly inhabited? The bodies will reply, +"we are not dead, but still living." The souls and bodies will not be +re-united; the former will live in trees during the day, and at night +alight on the ground, and eat grubs, lizards, frogs, and kangaroo rats, +but not vegetable food of any description. The souls are never again +to die, but will remain about the size of a boy eight years old. + +[Note 86: "For that practice, they are, as far as I could learn, unable to +give any other reason than that of its being the custom of their +forefathers which they are therefore bound to follow."--Burchell's +Bichuana tribes, vol. ii. p. 531.] + +The account given me by some of the natives of the Murray of the origin +of the creation, is, that there are four individuals living up among the +clouds, called Nooreele, a father and his three male children, but there +is no mother. The father is all-powerful, and of benevolent character. He +made the earth, trees, waters, etc., gave names to every thing and place, +placed the natives in their different districts, telling each tribe that +they were to inhabit such and such localities, and were to speak such and +such a language. It is said that he brought the natives originally from +some place over the waters to the eastward. The Nooreele never die, and +the souls (ludko, literally a shadow) of dead natives will go up and join +them in the skies, and will never die again. Other tribes of natives give +an account of a serpent of immense size, and inhabiting high rocky +mountains, which, they say, produced creation by a blow of his tail. But +their ideas and descriptions are too incongruous and unintelligible to +deduce any definite or connected story from them. + +All tribes of natives appear to dread evil spirits, having the appearance +of Blacks (called in the Murray dialect Tou, in that of Adelaide Kuinyo). +They fly about at nights through the air, break down branches of trees, +pass simultaneously from one place to another, and attack all natives +that come in their way, dragging such as they can catch after them. Fire +[Note 87 at end of para.] appears to have considerable effect in keeping +these monsters away, and a native will rarely stir a yard by night, +except in moonlight, without carrying a fire-stick. Under any +circumstances they do not like moving about in the dark, and it is with +the greatest difficulty that they are ever induced to go singly from +one station to another, a mile or two distant, after night-fall. +Notwithstanding this dread of they don't know exactly what, the natives +do not let their fears prevent them moving about after dark, if any +object is to be gained, or if several of them are together. By moonlight +they are in the habit of travelling from one place to another, as well as +of going out to hunt opossums. + +[Note 87: Fire is produced by the friction of two pieces of wood or +stick--generally the dry flower-stem of the Xanthorrea. The natives, +however, usually carry a lighted piece of wood about with them, and do +not often let it go out.] + +Anything that is extraordinary or unusual, is a subject of great dread to +the natives: of this I had a singular instance at Moorunde. In March, +1843, I had a little boy living with me by his father's permission, +whilst the old man went up the river with the other natives to hunt and +fish. On the evening of the 2nd of March a large comet was visible to the +westward, and became brighter and more distinct every succeeding night. +On the 5th I had a visit from the father of the little boy who was living +with me, to demand his son; he had come down the river post haste for +that purpose, as soon as he saw the comet, which he assured me was the +harbinger of all kinds of calamities, and more especially to the white +people. It was to overthrow Adelaide, destroy all Europeans and their +houses, and then taking a course up the Murray, and past the Rufus, do +irreparable damage to whatever or whoever came in its way. It was sent, +he said, by the northern natives, who were powerful sorcerers, and to +revenge the confinement of one of the principal men of their tribe, who +was then in Adelaide gaol, charged with assaulting a shepherd; and he +urged me by all means to hurry off to town as quickly as I could, to +procure the man's release, so that if possible the evil might be averted. +No explanation gave him the least satisfaction, he was in such a state of +apprehension and excitement, and he finally marched off with the little +boy, saying, that although by no means safe even with him, yet he would +be in less danger than if left with me. + +All natives of Australia believe in sorcery and witchcraft on the part of +certain of their own tribe, or of others. To enable them to become +sorcerers, certain rites must be undergone, which vary among the +different tribes. Around Adelaide they have at one period to eat the +flesh of young children, and at another that of an old man, but it does +not appear that they partake more than once in their life of each kind. +When initiated, these men possess extensive powers, they can cure or +cause diseases, can produce or dissipate rain [Note 88 at end of para.], +wind, hail, thunder, etc. They have many sacred implements or relics, +which are for the most part carefully kept concealed from the eyes of all, +but especially from the women, such as, pieces of rock crystal, said to +have been extracted by them from individuals who were suffering under +the withering influence of some hostile sorcerers; the pringurru, a sacred +piece of bone (used sometimes for bleeding), etc. The latter, if burned +to ashes in the fire, possesses mortiferous influence over enemies. +If two tribes are at war, and one of either happens to fall sick, it is +believed that the sickness has been produced by a sorcerer of the opposite +tribe, and should the pringurru have been burnt, death must necessarily +follow. + +[Note 88: Also an American superstition.--Vide Catlin, vol.i.p. 134. +"Sorcerers or rain makers, for both offices are generally assumed by one +individual."--Moffat's South Africa, p. 305.] + +As all internal pains are attributed to witchcraft, sorcerers possess the +power of relieving or curing them. Sometimes the mouth is applied to the +surface where the pain is seated, the blood is sucked out, and a bunch of +green leaves applied to the part; besides the blood, which is derived +from the gums of the sorcerer, a bone is sometimes put out of the mouth, +and declared to have been procured from the diseased part; on other +occasions the disease is drawn out in an invisible form, and burnt in the +fire, or thrown into the water; at others the patient is stretched upon +the ground, whilst another person presses with his feet or hands upon the +diseased part, or cold water is sprinkled over, and green leaves used as +before. There are few complaints that the natives do not attempt to cure, +either by charms or by specific applications: of the latter a very +singular one is the appliance personally of the urine from a female--a +very general remedy, and considered a sovereign one for most disorders. +Bandages are often applied round the ankles, legs, arms, wrists, etc. +sufficiently tight to impede circulation; suction is applied to the bites +of snakes, and is also made use of by their doctors in drawing out blood +from the diseased part, a string being tied to the hair, if it be the +head that ails, or to any other part, and the opposite end is put into +the sorcerer's mouth, who then commences sucking and spitting out blood, +which he declares comes from the patient. Blood letting is practised +occasionally to relieve pains in the head, or oppression of the system. +The operation is performed by opening a vein in the arm, with a piece of +rock crystal in the same way as Europeans bleed. + +Fractures of the extremities are treated with splints and bandages, as in +Europe. Venereal ulcers are sprinkled with alkaline wood ashes, the +astringent liquid of the nettle bark, or a macerated preparation from a +particular kind of broad-leaved grass. Superficial wounds are left to +themselves, and usually heal without much trouble. Malformations of the +body are attributed to the influence of the stars, caused by the mother +eating forbidden food during pregnancy, or if occurring after birth it is +still caused by the stars, in consequence of forbidden food being eaten. +The teeth of the native are generally regular and very beautiful, indeed, +in their natural state, I have never seen a single instance of decayed +teeth, among them. Among those, however, who have been living near +Europeans for some years past, and whose habits and diet have been +changed from simple to more artificial ones, a great alteration is taking +place in this respect, and symptoms of decaying teeth are beginning to +make their appearance among many. + +Among other superstitions of the natives, they believe in the existence +of an individual called in the Murrumbidgee Biam, or the Murray +Biam-baitch-y, who has the form and figure of a black, but is deformed in +the lower extremities, and is always either sitting cross-legged on the +ground, or ferrying about in a canoe. + +From him the natives say they derive many of the songs sung at their +dances; he also causes diseases sometimes, and especially one which +indents the face like the effects of small pox. Another evil agency, +dreaded by the natives, is a spirit of the waters, called ngook-wonga, it +causes many diseases to those who go into the waters in unauthorised +places, or at improper times, hence a native is very loth to go into +water he is not accustomed to for the first time. + +To counteract the evil effects produced by this spirit, there are persons +particularly devoted to this branch of sorcery, the following is a case +where I saw them exercise their powers. A boy of about fourteen had at +the Murray river been seized with a severe attack of erysipelas in the +lower part of one of his legs, from bathing and remaining in the water +when heated. As this did not get better, it was ascribed to the evil +agency of the Spirit of the Waters; and the Pachwonga or Pachwin were +called in to cure him. They arrived late at night, three in number, and +at once proceeded to the exercise of their duties. As soon as it was seen +that the magicians were coming, the friends of the boy lifted him up, and +carrying him some distance away from the camp, placed him on the ground +by himself, and then ranged themselves in two rows upon either side, in a +sitting posture, but at some distance behind the patient. The three magi +now advanced in the form of a triangle, one leading and the other two +behind, equidistantly apart. They were all painted, carried bunches of +green reeds in their hands, which they kept shaking, and danced [Note 89 +at end of para.] with a measured tread, keeping the right foot always in +advance of the other as in a galopade, and singing a low solemn dirge, +which was vehemently beat time to, by the natives behind thumping +on the ground. Upon arriving at the boy, the leading native fell down +on his knees close to him, and took hold of the diseased leg, the +other two still dancing and singing around the patient. In a little +time, one of the two fell down also on his knees on another side +of the boy, leaving the third still dancing and singing around them. +At last he fell down also on his knees in a triangular position +with the others, the boy being in the centre. All three now commenced +blowing, spitting, making curious gurgling kinds of noises, waving +their green bunches of reeds, and pressing forcibly upon the diseased +leg to make the patient give audible indications of the evil spirit +leaving him. After some time, two of the three doctors got up +again, danced and sung around the boy, and then once more assuming their +kneeling positions, recommenced spitting and blowing, waving their +bunches of reeds, and making the same curious noises, but louder than +ever. Their exorcism at last was effectual, the evil spirit, in the shape +of a sharp stone, was extracted from the limb, and driven into the +ground; but it was too dark they said to see it. As soon as this +agreeable news was announced, the friends of the boy came up and hastily +removed him back to the camp, whilst the three doctors assuming the +triangular position, sung and danced round the place where the boy had +been laid, and then advancing in the same form towards the river, keeping +the right foot always in advance, they at last fairly drove the spirit +into the water and relieved the neighbourhood from so troublesome a +visitor. + +[Note 89: "Dancing over him, shaking his frightful rattles, and singing +songs of incantation, in the hopes to cure him by a charm."--Catlin's +North American Indians, vol. i.p. 39.] + +It was a long time before I lost a vivid impression of this ceremony; the +still hour of the night, the naked savages, with their fancifully painted +forms, their wild but solemn dirge, their uncouth gestures, and unnatural +noises, all tended to keep up an illusion of an unearthly character, and +contributed to produce a thrilling and imposing effect upon the mind. + +At the Murray River, singular looking places are found sometimes, made by +the natives by piling small stones close together, upon their ends in the +ground, in a shape resembling the accompanying diagram, and projecting +four or five inches above the ground. The whole length of the place thus +inclosed, by one which I examined, was eleven yards; at the broad end it +was two yards wide, at the narrow end one. The position of this singular +looking place, was a clear space on the slope of a hill, the narrow end +being the lowest, on in the direction of the river. Inside the line of +stones, the ground was smoothed, and somewhat hollowed. The natives +called it Mooyumbuck, and said it was a place for disenchanting an +individual afflicted with boils. In other places, large heaps of small +loose stones are piled up like small haycocks, but for what purpose I +could never understand. This is done by the young men, and has some +connection probably with their ceremonies or amusements. + +In others, singular shaped spaces are inclosed, by serpentine trenches, a +few inches deep, but for what purpose I know not, unless graves have +formerly existed there. + +Another practice of the natives, when travelling from one place to +another, is to put stones up in the trees they pass, at different heights +from the ground, to indicate the height of the sun when they passed. +Other natives following, are thus made aware of the hour of the day when +their friends passed particular points. Captain Grey found the same +custom in Western Australia; vol. i. p. 113, he says:-- + + +"I this day again remarked a circumstance, which had before this period +elicited my attention, which was, that we occasionally found fixed on the +boughs of trees, at a considerable height from the ground, pieces of +sandstone, nearly circular in form, about an inch and a half in +thickness, and from four to five in diameter, so that they resembled +small mill-stones. What was the object of thus fashioning, and placing +these stones, I never could conceive, for they are generally in the least +remarkable spots. They cannot point out burial places, for I have made +such minute searches, that in such case I must have found some of the +bones; neither can they indicate any peculiar route through the country, +for two never occur near one another." + + +The power of sorcery appears always to belong, in a degree, to the aged, +but it is assumed often by the middle aged men. It is no protection to +the possessor, from attack, or injury, on the part of other natives. On +the contrary, the greater the skill of the sorcerer, and the more +extensive his reputation, the more likely is he to be charged with +offences he is unconscious of, and made to pay their penalty. Sorcerers +are not ubiquitous, but have the power of becoming invisible, and can +transport themselves instantaneously to any place they please. Women are +never sorcerers. It is a general belief among almost all the Aborigines, +that Europeans, or white people, are resuscitated natives, who have +changed their colour, and who are supposed to return to the same +localities they had inhabited as black people. The most puzzling point, +however, with this theory, appears to be that they cannot make out how it +is that the returned natives do not know their former friends or +relatives. I have myself often been asked, with seriousness and +earnestness, who, among the Europeans, were their fathers, their mothers, +and their other relatives, and how it is that the dead were so ignorant, +or so forgetful, as not to know their friends when they again returned to +the earth. + +One old native informed me, that all blacks, when dead, go up to the +clouds, where they have plenty to eat and drink; fish, birds, and game of +all kinds, with weapons and implements to take them. He then told me, +that occasionally individuals had been up to the clouds, and had come +back, but that such instances were very rare; his own mother, he said, +had been one of the favoured few. Some one from above had let down a +rope, and hauled her up by it; she remained one night, and on her return, +gave a description of what she had seen in a chaunt, or song, which he +sung for me, but of the meaning of which I could make out nothing. + + + + +Chapter VI + + + +NUMBERS--DISEASES--CAUSE OF LIMITED POPULATION--CRIMES AGAINST EUROPEANS-- +AMONGST THEMSELVES--TREATMENT OF EACH OTHER IN DISTRIBUTION OF FOOD, ETC. + + +There is scarcely any point connected with the subject of the Aborigines +of New Holland, upon which it is more difficult to found an opinion, even +approximating to the truth, than that of the aggregate population of the +continent, or the average number of persons to be found in any given +space. Nor will this appear at all surprising, when the character and +habits of the people are taken into consideration. Destitute of any fixed +place of residence, neither cultivating the soil, nor domesticating +animals, they have no pursuits to confine them to any particular +locality, or to cause them to congregate permanently in the same +district. On the contrary, all their habits have an opposite tendency. + +The necessity of seeking daily their food as they require it, the fact of +that food not being procurable for any great length of time together in +the same place, and the circumstance that its quality, and abundance, or +the facility of obtaining it, are contingent upon the season of the year, +at which they may visit any particular district, have given to their mode +of life, an unsettled and wandering character. + +The casual observer, or the passing traveller, has but little, therefore, +to guide him in his estimate of the population of the country he may be +in. A district that may at one time be thinly inhabited, or even +altogether untenanted, may at another be teeming with population. The +wanderer may at one time be surrounded by hundreds of savages, and at +another, in the same place he may pass on alone and unheeded. + +At Lake Victoria, on the Murray, I have seen congregated upwards of six +hundred natives at once, again I have passed through that neighbourhood +and have scarcely seen a single individual; nor does this alone +constitute the difficulty and uncertainty involved in estimating the +numbers of the Aborigines. Such are the silence and stealth with which +all their movements are conducted, so slight a trace is left to indicate +their line of march, and so small a clue by which to detect their +presence, that the stranger finds it impossible to tell from any thing +that he sees, whether he is in their vicinity or not. I have myself often +when travelling, as I imagined in the most retired and solitary recesses +of the forest, been suddenly surprised by the unexpected appearance of +large bodies of natives, without being in the least able to conjecture +whence they had come, or how they obtained the necessaries of life, in +what appeared to me an arid and foodless desert. + +Captain Grey has observed in other parts of Australia, the same ingenuity +and stealth manifested by them in either cloaking their movements, or +concealing their presence, until circumstances rendered it in their +opinion no longer necessary to preserve this concealment, vol. i. p. 147, +he says: "Immediately numbers of other natives burst upon my sight, each +tree, each rock, seemed to give forth its black denizen as if by +enchantment; a moment before the most solemn silence pervaded these +woods, we deemed that not a human being moved within miles of us, and now +they rang with savage and ferocious yells, and fierce armed men crowded +around us on every side, bent on our destruction." + +Nor is it less difficult to arrive at the number of the population in +those districts which are occupied by Europeans. In some, the native +tribes rarely frequent the stations, in others, portions only of the +different tribes are to be found; some belong to the district and others +not. In all there is a difficulty in ascertaining the exact number of any +tribe, or the precise limits to which their territory extends in every +direction around. Even could these particulars be accurately obtained in +a few localities, they would afford no data for estimating the population +of the whole, as the average number of inhabitants to the square mile, +would always vary according to the character of the country and the +abundance of food. + +Upon this subject Captain Grey remarks, vol. ii. p. 246, "I have found the +number of inhabitants to a square mile to vary so much from district to +district, from season to season, and to depend upon so great a variety of +local circumstances, that I am unable to give any computation which I +believe would even nearly approach to truth." + +Mr. Moorhouse, who has also paid much attention to this subject, in the +neighbourhood of Adelaide, has arrived at the conclusion, that, in 1843, +there were about sixteen hundred aborigines, in regular or irregular +contact with the Europeans, in the province of South Australia; these he +has classed as follows, viz.:-- + +In regular contact with Europeans, + + +Adelaide district 300 +Encounter Bay 230 +Moorunde 300 +Port Lincoln 60 +Hutt River 30 + --- + 920 + + +In irregular contact with Europeans, + + +Adelaide - +Encounter Bay 100 +Moorunde 200 +Port Lincoln 340 +Hutt River 40 + --- + 680 + + +or together about 1600. + +Taking in the southern districts of South Australia 120 miles from +Adelaide, the northern ones 160, and the eastern one 200. Mr. Moorhouse +estimates that there are altogether only about 3000 natives. This +however, appears to me to be a considerably under-rated number, and I +should rather incline to the opinion, that there are twice as many, if +the Port Lincoln peninsula be added to the limits already mentioned. In +the Port Lincoln district, Mr. Schurman conjectures there are about 400. + +On the Murray River, which is, perhaps, the most densely populated part +of the country, I imagine there are, from Moorunde, about three to four +natives to every mile of river, which as it winds very considerably in +its course, would give a large population to the square mile, if only the +valley of the Murray was taken into account. + +There are other tribes also frequenting the river occasionally, from the +back scrubs on either side; but as these range through a great extent of +country beyond the valley, and only sometimes come down there on a visit; +I do not include them in the estimate. + +At Moorunde itself I have sometimes had from four to five hundred +collected, and among those, only a few, perhaps, from the very remote +tribes. + +At the Rufus and Lake Victoria, I have seen above six hundred together, +where they had no other motive to collect in so large a party, than from +custom, and for the enjoyment of festivity. + +Large towns are frequently the centre of meeting for many, and very +distant tribes. The facility of obtaining scraps by begging, small +rewards for trifling jobs of work, donations from the charitable, and a +variety of broken victuals, offal, etc. enable them to collect in large +numbers, and indulge to the uttermost their curiosity in observing the +novelties around them, in meeting strange tribes, and joining them either +in war or festivity, in procuring tools, clothes, etc. to carry back and +barter in their own districts, and for other similar objects. Thus, +Adelaide is nearly always occupied by tribes from one part or other of +the country: on an average, it will support probably six hundred in the +way I have described, though occasionally eight hundred have met there. +The following returns of the numbers who have attended the annual muster +on the Queen's birthday, when bread and beef have been distributed, will +show how the ratio has gone on increasing during the last five years. + + +In 1840 there were present 283 men, women, and children. + 1841 there were present 374 men, women, and children. + 1842 there were present 400 men, women, and children. + 1843 there were present 450 men, women, and children. + 1844 there were present 793 men, women, and children. + + +In the Murray district, where it has been customary, since the first +establishment of the post at Moorunde, to issue a certain quantity of +flour once in the month (at the full moon) to every native who chose to +come in to receive it, the increase in attendance has been progressively +going on, viz. + + + 2 issues in 1841 the average attendance were 52 men, women, and children +12 issues in 1842 the average attendance were 94 men, women, and children +10 issues in 1843 the average attendance were 136 men, women, and children + 9 issues in 1844 the average attendance were 171 men, women, and children + + +Occasionally nearly 500 natives have been present at these monthly issues +of flour, and the reason that the average attendance is not greater, is, +that immediately after collecting at Moorunde, at the full of the moon, +to receive their flour, from 100 to 300 would usually set off to +Adelaide, where there are so many objects of interest and attraction, and +re-remain there for several months at a time, and especially during the +winter. As fast, too, as one party returned to their own districts, +another would go into town, and thus the average number would be +constantly kept down. A third reason why the musters do not appear so +large as they otherwise would, is that many of the more distant natives +come down at other times than the full moon, and I have then been obliged +to deviate from my usual custom, and issue flour to them at the periods +when they arrived. The number of natives attending such extraordinary +issues do not appear in the periodical returns. + +In endeavouring to estimate the numbers and proportions of the sexes, and +children, almost as great a difficulty exists as in that of obtaining +their aggregate numbers. This arises from the fact of the more distant +tribes who visit Europeans stations, frequently leaving their younger +wives, or little children at home, with aged relatives, whilst they +themselves go to a distance. In all the periodical, or regular issues of +flour at the time of full moon, I have accurately kept lists of all who +attended. The gross totals of thirty-three issues are as follows:-- + + +Men 1266 +Women 1330 +Boys 930 +Girls 551 +Infants 52 + ---- + 4129 + + +From this it is apparent, first, that the women attending the monthly +meetings at the Murray have been, on the whole, about five and a half per +cent in excess of the men, an extraordinary and unusual circumstance, as +compared with the results obtained at other places. I can only account +for this upon the supposition before given, that when large bodies of +natives leave Moorunde for Adelaide, more men than women go away, and +that consequently a larger proportion of females is left behind. Mr. +Moor-house remarks, upon this point, that he has found the males to +average seventy per cent more than the females, among the Adelaide +tribes. My own observation leads me to the opinion that upon the Murray +the two sexes are as nearly equal in numbers as may be. + +Secondly, it would appear, that of the Moorunde issues, the number of +girls attending has been little more than one half that of the boys. This +may, perhaps, arise in some measure from females assuming the duties of +women, and being classed as such, at an age when males would still be +considered as only boys. The principal reason, however, must, as before, +be ascribed to a greater number of girls being left behind by the more +distant tribes when they come to visit Moorunde. + +Thirdly, from the list I have given, it seems that to each woman there +would be about 1 1/3 child. Upon this subject Mr. Moorhouse remarks, that +his investigation has led to the conclusion that each woman has, on an +average, five children born (nine being the greatest number known), but +that each mother only rears, upon an average, two; and this I think, upon +the whole, would be a tolerably correct estimate. + +There is one point connected with the return I have given, peculiarly +striking, as it shews the comparatively small increase that now appears +to be going on among the more numerous tribes of the Aborigines, I allude +to the fact of there only having been fifty-two young infants among 1330 +women. By infants I mean such as had to be carried in the arms, for those +who could walk at all have been classed among the boys and girls. + +I have never known a case of twins among the Aborigines, and Mr. +Moorhouse informs me that no case has ever come under his observation; +but Captain Grey found such to occur sometimes in Western Australia. On +the number and proportion of the sexes he observes, that 4.6 seemed to be +the average number of children born to each woman, and that there was one +female to every 1.3 males. With respect to the duration of life among the +Aborigines, Captain Grey says, vol. ii. p. 246-248--"With regard to the +age occasionally attained by the natives, I believe very erroneous ideas +have been prevalent, for so far am I from considering them to be short +lived, that I am certain they frequently attain the age of seventy years +and upwards." "Yet were these instances of longevity contrasted with the +great number of deaths which take place during the period of infancy, +there can be no doubt whatever that the average duration of life amongst +these savage tribes falls far short of that enjoyed by civilized races." + +These remarks, as far as my observation has extended, apply to the +natives of New Holland generally. I have frequently met with many +venerable, white-headed men among the Aborigines, who could not, I think, +have been less than eighty years of age, and who yet retained the full +vigour of mind, and the bold, upright, though now wasted form, that had +characterised them in the pride of manhood; but about sixty-five appears +perhaps to be the average age attained by the old. + +The second inference is more than borne out by the statement already +recorded, that for every five children born on an average to each mother, +two only are reared, and these subject to all the casualities and dangers +which savage life is exposed to. + +[Note 90: This can of course only apply to tribes tolerably well known to +Europeans, and more or less frequently coming in contact with them. Of +tribes in their natural state we can have no accurate data, and but few +passing notes even that are worthy of confidence. Generally I have found +children to be numerous among tribes who have never had intercourse with +Europeans' and it is a well known fact that the increase of numbers in +aboriginal tribes is checked in proportion to the frequency, or the +extent of their communication with Europeans. At Flinders island to which +210 Van Diemen's Land natives were removed from Van Diemen's Land in +1835, this is singularly exemplified. In 1842 Count Strzelecki says, page +353--"And while each family of the interior of New South Wales, +uncontaminated by contact with the whites, swarms with children, those of +Flinders island, had during eight years an accession of only fourteen in +number."] + +Upon inquiry into the causes which tend to prevent population going on in +an increasing ratio among the natives of Australia, the following appear +to be the most prominent. First, polygamy, and the illicit and almost +unlimited intercourse between the sexes, habits which are well known to +check the progress of population, wherever they prevail. + +Secondly. Infanticide, which is very general, and practised to a great +extent, especially among the younger and favourite women. + +Thirdly. Diseases, to which in a savage state young children are +peculiarly liable, such as dysentry, cold, and their consequences, etc. + +[Note 91: Huic accedit, ex quo illis sunt immisti Europaei, lues venerea. +Morbum infantibus matres afflant, et ingens multitudo quotannis +inde perit.] + +Fourthly. Wars and quarrels, occurring sometimes from the most trivial +circumstances, and often ending in deaths, or wounds that terminate in +death. + +The diseases to which the natives are subject, are with the exception of +those induced by artificial living, as gout, rheumatism, etc. very similar +to those which afflict Europeans, the principal being the result of +inflammation, acute, or chronic, arising from exposure to the cold, and +which affects most generally the bronchiae, the lungs, and the pleura. +Phthisis occasionally occurs, as does also erysipelas. Scrofula has been +met with, but very rarely. A disease very similar to the small-pox, and +leaving similar marks upon the face, appears formerly to have been very +prevalent, but I have never met with an existing case, nor has Mr. +Moorhouse ever fallen in with one. It is said to have come from the +eastward originally, and very probably may have been derived in the first +instance from Europeans, and the infection passed along from one tribe to +another: it has not been experienced now for many years. + +[Note 92: Ex morbis quos patiuntur ab adventu Europaeorum longe +frequentissima et maxime fatalis est lues venerea. An hic morbus +indigenis, priusquam illis immiscebuntur Europaei erat notus, sciri nunc +minime potest. Ipsi jamdiu ex oriente adductum dicunt, ex quo maxime +probabile videtur, eum, origine prima ex Europa, inde de gente in gentem +per totam poene continentem esse illatam. Neque dubium eum in gentibus iis +quibus non immiscentur Europaei, neque frequentem esse, nec acrem, eorum +autem per immistionem terribilem in modum augescere. Quinetiam ii sunt +indigenarum mores, ut, adveniat modo forma sub pessima morbus, velox et +virulentus qualis nusquam alias illico latissime effluat. Licet bene +sciant hae gentes, hunc, sicut ejus modi alii morbum per contactum +contractum esse illis tamen pestem cujus indies spectantur tantae tamque +terribiles offensiones, vitare minime curae est. Vidi egomet plurimos non +modo aegrotorum in tentoriis otiari, verum etiam foedatus ita secure +induere vestes aut iisdem in stragulis cubare, ac si optima ibi adesset +sanitas. Mihi stationem publicam ponendi causa ad "Morrandi" in mensa +Octobris, 1841, advenienti, occurrebant populi morbis poene liberi +formam atque membra bene formati; postea autem ex frequenti cum oppido +et proximis stationibus commercio, circa Octobrem 1844, morbos quam +maxime horridos contraxerant. Inde eo tempore moribundi erant plurimi, +nonnulli mortui, paucique ex iis, qui frequenter coibant, ex omni aetate +et sexu hujusce pestis formis omnino expertes erant. Apud indigenas +morbus hic eodem fere modo quo apud Europaeos sese ostendere videtur +variis tamen ex causis etiam magis odiosum, eo praesertim quod pustulae +rotundae, magnitudinem fere uncialem habentes, simul in cute exsurgunt. +His gradatim, cum pure effluente, pars media expletur, et inde magis +magisque crescentibus et dispersis corporis universi superficies tabe ac +scabie laborat, quae propinquantibus simul horrorem ac nauseam movent. +Ulcera haec aliquando infra sex vel octo menses ipsa se cohaerent; +plerumque autem incitamentorum et vi causticorum ad locum adhibita infra +hebdomadas tres sanantur. Nec minus apud indigenas quam apud Europaeos, +remedium hujusoe morbi speciale: medicamenta sunt mercurialia, majore +tamen illis cum periculo, tum propter eorum mores, quum quod plerumque +sub dio vivunt, omni absente medicina. Post annum primum aut alterum +morbus evanescit, interdum mortem affert. Semper autem aegrotis miseris +cruciatus maximus et dolores perpetui inde flunt. Moorhousi de morbo hoc +opiniones in paucis a meis experimentis dissident, quum ille num glandem +penis aut inguinis, principio nunquam, glandem autem penis rarissime vel +secundo attingere arbitrabatur. Ego autem et hoc et illud in ripis +Murray fluminis vidi.] + +Many natives of deformed persons are occasionally to be met with, +especially in the extremities. I have seen natives tall, and perfect, and +well built in the body and limbs, from the head down to the knees: but +from that point downwards, shrivelled and blighted, presenting but skin +and bone. Many are blind in one eye, some in both; sometimes this appears +the effect of inflammation, or of cataract; at others, it may be the +result of accident. Among those natives inhabiting the sandy drifts along +the western coast, where the sand is always circling about in a perfect +shower, I have no doubt but that many become blind from its effects. + +In October, 1839, Mr. Moorhouse found nine inhabitants in two huts to the +south; out of these, five were quite blind, and one had lost one eye; +they were occupied in making nets. + +Deaf and dumb persons are not often found among the Aborigines, but I +have met with instances of this kind. One of the most intelligent natives +I ever met with, was a deaf and dumb youth at the Wimmera. From this poor +boy, I could more readily and intelligibly obtain by signs a description +of the country, its character, and localities, than from any native I +ever met with, whose language I was at the time quite unacquainted with. + +The blind, or the infirm, are generally well treated, and taken care of +when young, but as soon as they advance in years, or become an impediment +to the movements of the tribe, they are abandoned at once by their +people, and left to perish. + +The crimes committed by the natives against Europeans do not bear any +proportion, either numerically, or in magnitude, to their number, as a +people, and the circumstances of their position. When we consider the low +state of morals, or rather, the absence of all moral feeling upon their +part, the little restraint that is placed upon their community, by either +individual authority, or public opinion, the injuries they are smarting +under, and the aggressions they receive, it cannot but be admitted that +they are neither an ill disposed, nor a very vindictive people. The +following are the returns of the convictions of natives in South +Australia for the years 1842 and 1843, viz. :-- + +SUPREME COURT. +-------------- + +OFFENCE. 1842 1843 1844 + +Larceny 2 0 2 +Assault with intent to murder 2 0 0 +Wilful murder 0 3 1 +Sheep stealing 1 2 1 +Cattle stealing 0 1 2 + +RESIDENT MAGISTRATE'S COURT. +---------------------------- + +Assault 0 3 3 +Breaking windows 1 0 0 +Intoxication 3 0 0 +Injuring park trees 0 0 2 + ---------- + 9 9 11 + + +In the colony of New South Wales, the return of all the trials of the +Aborigines, from 10th February, 1837, to the 24th July, 1843, amounted to +thirty-three cases, and implicated sixty-one individuals. The offences +were chiefly murder and assault, or stealing sheep and cattle. In ten +cases only, out of thirty-three, convictions took place, and nineteen +individuals were sentenced, viz., twelve to death, six to transportation +for ten years, and one to a flogging. [Note 93: For particulars vide +Papers on the Aborigines of Australian Colonies, printed for the House of +Commons, August 9th, 1844.] + +Among the natives, but few crimes are committed against each other; in +fact, it would be somewhat difficult to define what their idea of crime +would be, for that which is offensive on the part of another is +considered a virtue in themselves. Accustomed to act upon the impulse of +the moment, and to take summary vengeance for injury, real or imagined, +their worst deeds are but in accordance with their own standard of right, +having no moral sense of what is just or equitable in the abstract, their +only test of propriety must in such cases be, whether they are +numerically, or physically strong enough to brave the vengeance of those +whom they may have provoked, or injured. Custom has, however, from time +immemorial, usurped the place of laws, and with them, perhaps, is even +more binding than they would be. Through custom's irresistible sway has +been forged the chain that binds in iron fetters a people, who might +otherwise be said to be without government or restraint. By it, the young +and the weak are held in willing subjection to the old and the strong. +Superstitious to a degree they are taught from earliest infancy to dread +they know not what evil or punishment, if they infringe upon obligations +they have been told to consider as sacred. All the better feelings and +impulses implanted in the human heart by nature, are trampled upon by +customs, which, as long as they remain unchanged, must for ever prevent +them from rising in the scale of civilization and improvement, or to use +the apt and expressive language of Captain Grey upon this point, vol. ii. +p. 217 :-- + +"He (the native) is in reality subjected to complex laws, which not only +deprive him of all free agency of thought, but at the same time, by +allowing no scope for the development of intellect, benevolence, or any +other great moral qualification, they necessarily bind him down in a +hopeless state of barbarism, from which it is impossible for him to +emerge, so long as he is enthralled by these customs, which, on the other +hand, are so ingeniously devised as to have a direct tendency to +annihilate any effort that is made to overthrow them." + +Those customs regulate all things, the acquisition and disposal of wives, +the treatment of women, of the elders, the acquiescence of the younger +members of a tribe in any measure that may have been decided upon by the +old men, the rules which guide the international intercourse between +different tribes, the certain restrictions or embargoes that are put upon +different kinds of food or at certain ages, the fear of sorcery or +witchcraft if they transgress the orders of the elders, or break through +the ordinances that have been imposed upon them, and many other similar +influences. + +In their intercourse with each other I have generally found the natives +to speak the truth and act with honesty, and they will usually do the +same with Europeans if on friendly terms with them. In their treatment of +each other, and in the division of food, policy and custom have induced +them to be extremely polite and liberal. Old men are especially well off +in this respect, as the younger people always give them the best and +largest share of everything. Males generally are generous and liberal to +each other in sharing what food they have, but it is not often that the +females participate in the division. When following their usual pursuits +upon the Murray, I have seen the men after an hour or two's fishing with +the nets, sit down and devour all they had caught, without saving +anything for their family or wives, and then hurry about noon to the +camps to share in what had been procured by the women, who usually begin +to return at that hour, with what they have been able to collect. +Favourite kinds of food are also frequently sent as presents from one +male to another, and at other times two parties will meet and exchange +the different kinds they respectively bring. Among the younger people I +have often seen a poor hungry fellow, who had by his skill or +perseverance obtained some small article of food, compelled by the rules +of savage politeness to share out the petty spoil among a group of +expectant sharks around, whilst he whose skill or labour had procured it +dared hardly taste it, and was sure to come in for the smallest share. + +Naturally, I do not think they are bloodthirsty; custom or example may +sometimes lead them on to shed blood, but it is usually in accordance +with their prejudices or to gratify the momentary excitement of passion. +With many vices and but few virtues, I do not yet think the Australian +savage is more? vicious in his propensities or more virulent in his +passions than are the larger number of the lower classes of what are +called civilized communities. Well might they retort to our accusations, +the motives and animus by which too many of our countrymen have been +actuated towards them. + +I have remarked that as far as my observation has enabled me to judge, +the natives are rarely guilty of offences (which they deem such,) towards +members of their own tribes. There are many acts, however, which +according to our ideas of right and wrong, are acts of the greatest +cruelty and tyranny, which they exercise towards each other, though +sanctioned by custom, and enforced by daily practice. Such are the +cruelties inflicted upon the women, who are looked upon in the light of +slaves, and mercilessly beaten or speared for the most trifling offences. +No one under any circumstances ever attempts to take the part of a +female, and consequently they are maltreated and oppressed in a shocking +degree. Does a native meet a woman in the woods and violate her, he is +not the one made to feel the vengeance of the husband, but the poor +victim whom he has abused. Is there hard or disagreeable work of any kind +to be done--the woman is compelled to do it. Is there a scarcity of food +at the camp when the husband comes home hungry--the wife is punished for +his indolence and inactivity. + +[Note 94: In February 1842, Mr. Gouger, then Colonial Secretary at +Adelaide, caused a dog belonging to a native to be shot for some cause or +other I am not acquainted with. The animal had been left by its master in +the charge of his wife, and as soon as he learnt that it was dead, he +speared her for not taking better care of it.] + +The complete subserviency of the younger people of both sexes in the +savage community, to the older or leading men, is another very serious +evil they labour under. The force of habit and of traditional custom has +so completely clouded their otherwise quick perceptions, that they +blindly yield to whatever the elders may require of them; they dare not +disobey, they dare not complain of any wrong or indignity they may be +subjected to this has been and will be the greatest bar to their +civilization or improvement until some means are taken to free them from +so degrading a thraldom, and afford that protection from the oppression +of the strong and the old which they so greatly require. + +On the Murray river, or amongst the Adelaide natives I am not aware that +any stated punishments are affixed to specific crimes, except that of +spearing in the arm to expiate deaths. Vengeance appears usually to be +summarily executed and on the spot, according to the physical strength or +number of friends of the individual injured; otherwise it is made a cause +of quarrel between tribes, and a battle or disturbance of some kind takes +place. This appears to be one great point of distinction between the +practice of some of the tribes in Southern and Western Australia. Captain +Grey says in reference to the latter place, (vol. ii. p. 243.) + + +"Any other crime may be compounded for, by the criminal appearing and +submitting himself to the ordeal of having spears thrown at him by all +such persons as conceive themselves to have been aggrieved, or by +permitting spears to be thrust through certain parts of his body; such as +through the thigh, or the calf of the leg, or under the arm. The part +which is to be pierced by a spear, is fixed for all common crimes, and a +native who has incurred this penalty, sometimes quietly holds out his leg +for the injured party to thrust his spear through." + + +This custom does not appear to hold among the tribes of South Australia, +with whom I have come in contact; but I have often been told by natives +of tribes in New South Wales, that they practised it, although an +instance of the infliction of the punishment never came under my own +observation. + +Injuries, when once overlooked, are never revenged afterwards. Tribes may +compel members to make restitution, as in the case of stealing a wife; +but I have never known an instance of one of their number being given up +to another tribe, for either punishment or death. Occasionally they have +been induced to give up guilty parties to Europeans; but to effect this, +great personal influence on the part of the person employed is necessary +to ensure success. Though they are always ready to give up or point out +transgressors, if belonging to other tribes than their own. + + + + +Chapter VII. + + + +LANGUAGE, DIALECTS, CUSTOMS, etc.--GENERAL SIMILARITY THROUGHOUT THE +CONTINENT--CAUSES OF DIFFERENCES--ROUTE BY WHICH THE NATIVES HAVE +OVERSPREAD THE COUNTRY, etc. + + +During the last few years much has been done towards an examination and +comparison of the dialects spoken by the aboriginal tribes of Australia +in different portions of the continent. The labours of Mr. Threlkeld, of +Captain Grey, of Messrs. Teichelman and Schurmann, of Mr. Meyer, of Mr. +Schurman, with the occasional notes of visitors and travellers, have done +much to elucidate this subject, and have presented to the world +vocabularies of the Hunter's River and Lake Macquarie districts in New +South Wales; of Swan River and King George's Sound in Western Australia; +of Adelaide, of Encounter Bay, and of Port Lincoln, in South Australia; +besides occasional phrases or scanty manuals of various other dialects +spoken in different districts. From these varied contributions it would +appear that a striking coincidence exists in the personal appearance, +character, customs, traditions, dialects, etc. among the many and remotely +separated tribes scattered over the surface of New Holland. Each of +these, no doubt, varies in many particulars from the others, and so much +so some times, as to lead to the impression that they are essentially +different and distinct. [Note 95 at end of para.] Upon close examination, +however, a sufficient general resemblance is usually found to indicate +that all the tribes have originally sprung from the same race, that +they have gradually spread themselves over the whole continent from +some one given point; which appears, as far as we can infer from +circumstantial evidence, to have been somewhere upon the northern +coast. There are some points of resemblance which, as far as is yet +known, appear to be common to most of the different dialects with +which we are acquainted. Such are, there being no generic terms +as tree, fish, bird, etc., but only specific ones as applied to +each particular variety of tree, fish, bird, etc. The cardinal +numbers, being only carried up to three, there being no degrees +of comparison except by a repetition to indicate intensity, or by a +combination of opposite adjectives, to point out the proportion intended, +and no distinction of genders, if we except an attempt to mark one among +those tribes who give numerical names to their children, according to the +order of their birth, as before mentioned. [Note 96: Chap. IV. +nomenclature.] All parts of speech appear to be subject to inflections, +if we except adverbs, post-fixes, and post-positions. Nouns, adjectives, +pronouns and verbs have all three numbers, singular, dual and plural. The +nominative agent always precedes an active verb. When any new object +is presented to the native, a name is given to it, from some fancied +similarity to some object they already know, or from some peculiar +quality or attribute it may possess; thus, rice is in the Moorunde +dialect called "yeelilee" or "maggots," from an imagined resemblance +between the two objects. + +[Note 95: Catlin remarks the existence of a similar number and variety in +the dialects of the American Indians, but appears to think them radically +different from one another.] + +The most singular and remarkable fact, connected with the coincidence of +customs or dialect, amongst the Aborigines, is that it exists frequently +to a less degree among tribes living close to one another, than between +those who are more remotely separated. The reason of this apparent +anomaly would seem to be, that those tribes now living near to one +another, and among whom the greatest dissimilarity of language and +customs is found to exist, have originally found their way to the same +neighbourhood by different lines of route, and consequently the greatest +resemblances in language and custom, might naturally be expected to be +met with, (as is in reality the case), not between tribes at present the +nearest to each other, but between those, who although now so far +removed, occupy respectively the opposite extremes of the lines of route +by which one of them had in the first instance crossed over the +continent. + +Without entering into an elaborate analysis, of either the structure or +radical derivation of the various dialects we are acquainted with, I +shall adduce a few instances in each, of words taken from the +vocabularies I have mentioned before, for King George's Sound, Adelaide, +Encounter Bay, and Port Lincoln, and supply them myself from other +dialects, including those meeting on the Murray or at the Darling, to +shew the degree of similarity that exists in language. + +In selecting the examples for comparison, I have taken first the personal +pronouns and numerals, as being the words which usually assimilate more +closely in the different dialects, than any other. Secondly, those words +representing objects which would be common to all tribes, and which from +their continual recurrence, and daily use, might naturally be supposed to +vary the least from each other, if the original language of all were the +same, but which, if radically different in any, render the subject still +more difficult and embarrassing. + +DIALECTS +======== + +[Note: At this point in the book a table appears, which lists +common English words and the equivalent word as taken from the +vocabularies of aborigines from various locations. This table has not +been reproduced in full, however, a few entries are given below.] + + +English Western Adelaide Encounter Parnkalla Aiawong + Australia Bay (Port Lincoln) (Moorundie) + +I Nganya Ngaii Ngaape Ngai, ngatto Ngappo +Thou Nginnee Ninna Nginte Ninna Ngurru +She Bal Pa Kitye Panna Nin +We (Ye) Nganneel Ngadlu Ngane Ngarrinyalbo Ngenno +They Balgoon Parna Kar Yardna Ngau-o +We two Ngal-li Ngadli Ngele Ngadli Ngel-lo +You two Newball Niwa Ngurle Nuwalla Ngupal +They two Boala Purla Kengk Pudlanbi Dlau-o +One Gyne Kumande Yammalaitye Kuma Meiter +Two Kardura Purlaitye Ning Kaiengg Kuttara Tang kul +Many Partanna Towata Ruwar Kulbarri Neil +Few Warrang Kutyonde -- -- Baupalata + + +Upon comparison of the different dialects given in the two foregoing +tables, and which comprise an extent of country, embracing fully one half +of the continent of Australia, it will be apparent that a sufficient +degree of resemblance exists to justify the conclusion, that they were +derived from one and the same original. It is true, that in many +respects, there are sometimes even radical differences in some of the +words of various dialects; but as Captain Grey judiciously remarks, if +the comparison in such cases be extended, and the vocabulary of each +enlarged, there will always be found points of resemblance, either in the +dialects compared, or in some intermediate dialect, which will bear out +the conclusion assumed. [Note 97 at end of para.] This view is still +further strengthened, by including in the comparison the weapons, habits, +customs, and traditions, of the various tribes. + +[Note 97. I may here refer to a curious mathematical calculation, by +Dr. Thomas Young, to the effect, that if three words coincide in two +different languages, it is ten to one they must be derived in both cases +from some parent language, or introduced in some other manner. "Six words +would give more," he says, "than seventeen hundred to one, and eight near +100,000; so that in these cases, the evidence would be little short of +absolute certainty."--Vestiges of the Creation, p. 302.] + +It must be admitted, however, that where the languages spoken by two +tribes, appear to differ greatly, there is no key common to both, or by +which a person understanding one of them thoroughly, could in the least +degree make out the other, although an intimate acquaintance with one +dialect and its construction, would undoubtedly tend to facilitate the +learning of another. A strong illustration of this occurs at Moorunde, +where three dialects meet, varying so much from each other, that no +native of any one of the three tribes, can understand a single word +spoken by the other two, except he has learnt their languages as those of +a foreign people. + +The dialects I allude to, are first that of the Murray river, called the +"Aiawong" and which is spoken with slight variations from the Lake +Alexandrina, up to the Darling. Secondly, the "Boraipar," or language of +the natives to the east of the Murray, and which appears in its +variations to branch into that of the south-eastern tribes; and thirdly, +the "Yak-kumban," or dialect spoken by the natives, inhabiting the +country to the north-west and north of the Murray, and which extends +along the range of hills from Mount Bryant to the Darling near Laidley's +Ponds, and forms in its variations the language of the Darling itself; +these tribes meet upon the Murray at Moorunde, and can only communicate +to each other by the intervention of the Aiawong dialect, which the +north-western or south-eastern tribes are compelled to learn, before they +can either communicate with each other, or with the natives of the +Murray, at their common point of rendezvous. + +To the tables already given, it is thought desirable to add two of the +dialects, spoken in the country to the eastward of South Australia, and +which were published for the House of Commons, with other papers on the +Aborigines, in August 1844. + +[Note: At this point in the book two table appear, with the following +headings. These tables have not been reproduces in this eBook.] + +A SPECIMEN OF THE DIFFERENCE OF DIALECTS SPOKEN BY THE NATIVE TRIBES OF +PORT PHILLIP. + +SPECIMEN OF FIVE DIALECTS SPOKEN BY THE ABORIGINES OF THE NORTH-WESTERN +DISTRICT. + + +Captain Flinders observed the same difference to exist in various parts +of New Holland, which he visited, and yet that judicious navigator +inclined to the opinion that all the various tribes had originally one +common origin. Vol. ii. p. 213-14, he says, + + +"I do not know that the language of any two parts of Terra Australis, +however near, has been found to be entirely the same; for even at Botany +Bay, Port Jackson, and Broken Bay, not only the dialect, but many words +are radically different; and this confirms one part of an observation, +the truth of which seems to be generally admitted, that although +similarity of language in two nations proves their origin to be the same, +yet dissimilarity of languages is no proof of the contrary position. + +"The language of Caledon Bay (north-west coast) may therefore be totally +different to what is spoken on the east and south coasts, and yet the +inhabitants have one common origin; but I do not think that the language +is absolutely and wholly different, though it certainly was no better +understood by Bongarrco (a Sydney native) than by ourselves. In three +instances I found a similarity. The personal pronoun of Port Jackson, +'Ngia' (I), was used here, and apparently in the same sense. When inquiry +was made after the axe, the natives replied 'yehangeree-py,' making signs +of beating, and py signifies to beat in the Port Jackson language. The +third instance was that of the lad Woga calling to Bongarree in the boat, +which after he had done several times without being answered, he became +angry, and exclaimed Bongarree-gah in a vehement manner, as Bongarree +himself would have done in a similar case." + + +Captain Grey, in speaking of the Aborigines of New Holland, says (vol. +ii. p. 209), + + +"One singularity in the dialects spoken by the Aborigines in different +portions of Australia is, that those of districts widely removed from one +another, sometimes assimilate very closely, whilst the dialects spoken in +the intermediate ones differ considerably from either of them. The same +circumstances take place with regard to their rights and customs." + + +And again, after comparing some of the dialects of South Australia and +New South Wales with those of Western Australia, Captain Grey says (vol. +ii. p. 216), + + +"Having thus traced the entire coast line of the continent of Australia, +it appears that a language the same in root is spoken throughout this +vast extent of country, and from the general agreement in this, as well +as in personal appearance, rites and ceremonies, we may fairly infer a +community of origin for the Aborigines." + + +Had we a collected and an authentic account of the dialects, weapons, +habits, customs, and traditions of all the tribes of Australia with whom +Europeans have already been in close or friendly contact, and which, with +very few exceptions, would embrace the circuit of the whole continent, we +should have a mass of valuable and interesting information, that would +enable us, not only to form a probable opinion as to the community of +origin of the various tribes, and the point from which they first +overspread the continent, but also to guide us in conjecturing the routes +which the various offsets have taken from the parent tribe, the places of +contact where they have met from opposite extremities of the continent, +and the gradual change which has taken place in the habits, customs, and +dialects of each. + +In the absence of many links necessary to form a connection, we can at +present only surmise conclusions, which otherwise might have been almost +certainly deduced. + +Connecting, however, and comparing all the facts with which we are +acquainted, respecting the Aborigines, it appears that there are still +grounds sufficient to hazard the opinion, that it is not improbable that +Australia was first peopled on its north-western coast, between the +parallels of 12 degrees and 16 degrees S. latitude. From whence we might +surmise that three grand divisions had branched out from the parent +tribe, and that from the offsets of these the whole continent had been +overspread. + +The first division appears to have proceeded round the north-western, +western, and south-western coast, as far as the commencement of the Great +Australian Bight. The second, or central one, appears to have crossed the +continent inland, to the southern coast, striking it about the parallel +of 134 degrees E. longitude. The third division seems to have followed +along the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria to its most south-easterly +bight, and then to have turned off by the first practicable line in a +direction towards Fort Bourke, upon the Darling. From these three +divisions various offsets and ramifications would have been made from +time to time as they advanced, so as to overspread and people by degrees +the whole country round their respective lines of march. Each offset +appearing to retain fewer or more of the original habits, customs, etc. of +the parent tribe in proportion to the distance traversed, or its isolated +position, with regard to communication with the tribes occupying the main +line of route of its original division; modified also, perhaps, in some +degree, by the local circumstances of the country through which it may +have spread. + +Commencing with the parent tribe, located as I have supposed, first upon +the north-west coast, we find, from the testimony of Captain Flinders and +Dampier, that the male natives of that part of the country, have two +front teeth of the upper jaw knocked out at the age of puberty, and that +they also undergo the rite of circumcision; but it does not appear that +any examination was made with sufficient closeness to ascertain, +whether [Note 98: Vide Note 78.] any other ceremony was conjoined with +that of circumcision. How far these ceremonies extend along the +north-western or western coasts we have no direct evidence, but at +Swan River, King George's Sound, and Cape Arid, both customs are +completely lost, and for the whole of the distance intervening +between these places, and extending fully six hundred miles in +straight line along the coast, the same language is so far spoken, +that a native of King George's Sound, who accompanied me when travelling +from one point to the other, could easily understand, and speak to any +natives we met with. This is, however, an unusual case, nor indeed am I +aware that there is any other part of Australia where the same dialect +continues to be spoken by the Aborigines, with so little variation, for +so great a distance, as in the colony of Western Australia. + +Following round the southern coast easterly, the head of the Great Bight +is the first point at which any great change appears to occur, and even +here it is less in the character, language, and weapons of the natives, +than in their ceremonial observances. For the first time the rite of +circumcision is observed, and conjoined with it the still more +extraordinary practice to which I have before alluded. The ceremony of +knocking out the two upper front teeth of boys arrived at the age of +puberty, is not, however, adopted. We have already noticed, that for six +hundred miles to the west and north-west from the Great Bight, +circumcision is unknown. The tribes, therefore, who practise it, cannot +have come from that direction, neither are they likely to have come from +the eastward, for after crossing the head of the Port Lincoln peninsula, +and descending towards Adelaide, we find the rite of circumcision alone +is practised, without any other ceremony in connection with it. Now, in a +change of habits or customs, originating in the wandering, unsettled life +of savages, it is very likely, that many of their original customs may +gradually be dropped or forgotten; but it is scarcely probable, that they +should be again revived by their descendants, after a long period of +oblivion, and when those tribes from whom they more immediately +proceeded, no longer remembered or recognised such ceremonials. By +extending the inquiry still further to the east, the position I have +assumed is more forcibly borne out, for the rite of circumcision itself +then becomes unknown. It is evident, therefore, that the Adelaide or Port +Lincoln natives could not have come along either the eastern or western +coasts, and retained customs that are there quite unknown, neither could +they have come across the country inland, in the direction of the +Darling, for the ceremonies alluded to are equally unknown there. They +must then have crossed almost directly from the north-western coast, +towards the south-eastern extremity of the great Australian Bight. And +from them the Adelaide natives would appear to be a branch or offset. + +Returning to the north-west coast, and tracing down the route of the +third division of the parent family, from the south-east Bight of +Carpentaria, towards Fort Bourke upon the Darling, we shall find, that by +far the greatest and most fertile portion of New Holland appears to have +been peopled by it. In its progress, offsets and ramifications would have +branched off in every direction along the various ranges or watercourses +contiguous to the line of route. All the rivers running towards the +eastern coast, together with the Nammoy, the Gwyder, the Castlereagh, +Macquarie, Bogan, Lochlan, Darling, Hume, Goulburn, etc. with their many +branches and tributaries, would each afford so many routes for the +different sub-divisions of the main body, to spread over the varied and +fertile regions of Eastern, South-eastern, and part of Southern +Australia. As tribe separated from tribe, each would retain, in a greater +or less degree, some of the language, habits, or customs of the original +division; but such points of resemblance would naturally again undergo +many changes or modifications, in proportion to the time, distance, or +isolated character of the separation. If we look at the progress of any +two parties of natives, branching off upon different rivers, and trace +them, either upwards or downwards, we shall find, that the further they +went, the more isolated they would become, and the less likely to come +again in contact with each other, or with the original division from +which they separated. We may, therefore, naturally expect a much greater +variety of dialects or customs in a country that is much intersected by +rivers, or ranges, or by any features that tend to produce the isolating +effect that I have described, than in one whose character has no such +tendency; and this in reality we find to be the case. In Western and +South-western Australia, as far as the commencement of the Great Bight, +the features and character of the country appear to be but little +diversified, and here, accordingly, we find the language of the natives +radically the same, and their weapons, customs, and ceremonies very +similar throughout its whole extent; but if, on the other hand, we turn +to Eastern, South-eastern, and part of Southern Australia, we find the +dialects, customs, and weapons of the inhabitants, almost as different as +the country itself is varied by the intersection of ranges and rivers. + +The division I have supposed as taking a south-easterly course from the +Gulf of Carpentaria, would appear early to have lost the rite of +circumcision; but to have retained among some of its branches, the +practice of knocking out the front teeth of the upper jaw. Thus, those +who made their way to Port Jackson and to Hunter's River, and to some of +the southern parts of New South Wales, still retained the practice of +knocking out one of the front teeth at the age of puberty; but at +Keppel's, Harvey's, and Glass-House bays, on the north-east coast, at +Twofold bay on the south-east, at Port Phillip on the south, and upon the +rivers Darling and Murray, of the interior, no such rite is practised. It +is clear, therefore, that when the continent was first peopled, the +natives of Sydney or Hunter's River could not have come round the +north-east coast by Keppel's or Harvey's bays, and retained a ceremony +that is there lost; neither could the Murrumbidgee or southern districts +of New South Wales, have been peopled from Port Phillip, or from South +Australia, or by tribes passing up the Murray for the same reason. It is +not demanding too much, therefore, to suppose that the general lines of +route taken by the Aborigines in spreading over the continent of +Australia, have been somewhat analogous to those I have imagined, or that +we can fairly account for any material differences there may be in the +dialects, customs, or weapons of the different tribes, by referring them +to the effect of local circumstances, the length of time that may have +elapsed since separation, or to the isolated position in which they may +have been placed, with regard to that division of the parent tribe from +which they had seceded. + +At present our information respecting the customs, habits, weapons and +dialects of the various tribes is too limited and too scattered to enable +us to trace with accuracy the division to which each may have originally +belonged, or the precise route by which it had arrived at its present +location; but I feel quite confident that this may be done with tolerable +certainty, when the particulars I have referred to shall be more +abundantly and correctly recorded. + +It is at least a subject of much interest, and one that is well worthy +the attention of the traveller or the philanthropist. No one individual +can hope personally to collect the whole material required; but if each +recorded with fidelity the facts connected with those tribes, with whom +he personally came in contact, a mass of evidence would soon be brought +together that would more than suffice for the purpose required. + + + + +Chapter VIII. + + + + +EFFECTS OF CONTACT WITH EUROPEANS--ATTEMPTS AT IMPROVEMENT AND +CIVILIZATION--ACCOUNT OF SCHOOLS--DEFECTS OF THE SYSTEM. + + +Some attempts have been made in nearly all the British Settlements of +Australia to improve the condition of the aboriginal population; the +results have, however, in few cases, met the expectations of the +promoters of the various benevolent schemes that have been entered upon +for the object; nor have the efforts hitherto made succeeded in arresting +that fatal and melancholy effect which contact with civilization seems +ever to produce upon a savage people. It has already been stated, that in +all the colonies we have hitherto established upon the continent, the +Aborigines are gradually decreasing in number, or have already +disappeared in proportion to the time their country has been occupied by +Europeans, or to the number of settlers who have been located upon it. + +Of the blighting and exterminating effects produced upon simple and +untutored races, by the advance of civilization upon them, we have many +and painful proofs. History records innumerable instances of nations who +were once numerous and powerful, decaying and disappearing before this +fatal and inexplicable influence; history WILL record, I fear, similar +results for the many nations who are now struggling; alas, how vainly, +against this desolating cause. Year by year, the melancholy and appalling +truth is only the more apparent, and as each new instance multiplies upon +us, it becomes too fatally confirmed, until at last we are almost, in +spite of ourselves, forced to the conviction, that the first appearance +of the white men in any new country, sounds the funeral knell of the +children of the soil. In Africa, in the country of the Bushmen, Mr. +Moffat says-- + + +"I have traversed those regions, in which, according to the testimony of +the farmers, thousands once dwelt, drinking at their own fountains, and +killing their own game; but now, alas, scarcely is a family to be seen! +It is impossible to look over those now uninhabited plains and mountain +glens without feeling the deepest melancholy, whilst the winds moaning in +the vale seem to echo back the sound, 'Where are they?'" + + +Another author, with reference to the Cape Colony, remarks-- + + +"The number of natives, estimated at the time of the discovery at about +200,000, are stated to have been reduced, or cut off, to the present +population of about 32,000, by a continual system of oppression, which +once begun, never slackened." + + +Catlin gives a feeling and melancholy account of the decrease of the +North American Indians, [Note 99: Vide Catlin's American Indians, +vol. i. p. 4 and 5, and vol. ii. p. 238.] and similar records might be +adduced of the sad fate of almost every uncivilized people, whose country +has been colonized by Europeans. In Sydney, which is the longest +established of all our possessions in New Holland, it is believed that not +a single native of the original tribes belonging to Port Jackson is now +left alive. [Note 100 at end of para.] Advancing from thence towards the +interior a miserable family or two may be met with, then a few detached +groups of half-starved wretches, dependant upon what they can procure +by begging for their daily sustenance. Still further, the scattered +and diseased remnants [Note 101 at end of para.], of once powerful, +but now decayed tribes are seen interspersed throughout the country, +until at last upon arriving at the more remote regions, where the +blighting and annihilating effects of colonization have not yet +overtaken them, tribes are yet found flourishing in their natural state, +free from that misery and diminution which its presence always brings +upon them. + +[Note 100: "In the first year of the settlement of New South Wales, 1788, +Governor Phillip caused the amount of the population of Port Jackson to be +ascertained, by every cove in it being visited by different inspectors at +the same time. The number of natives found in this single harbour was +130, and they had 67 boats. At the same time it was known that many were +in the woods making new canoes. From this and other data, Governor Phillip +estimated the population between Botany Bay and Broken Bay inclusive, +at 1500."--Aboriginal Protection Society's Report, May 1839, p. 13. + +In Report of the same Society for July 1839, page 71, Mr. Threlkeld +says--"Of one large tribe in the interior four years ago there were 164 +persons--there are now only three individuals alive!!"] + +[Note 101: "The whole eastern country, once thickly peopled, may now be +said to be entirely abandoned to the whites, with the exception of some +scattered families in one part, and of a few straggling individuals in +another; and these once so high spirited, so jealous of their independence +and liberty, now treated with contempt and ridicule even by the lowest of +the Europeans; degraded, subdued, confused, awkward, and distrustful, ill +concealing emotions of anger, scorn, and revenge--emaciated and covered +with filthy rags;--these native lords of the soil, more like spectres of +the past than living men, are dragging on a melancholy existence to a yet +more melancholy doom."--STRZELECHI'S N. S. WALES, p.350.] + +It is here that the native should be seen to be appreciated, in his +native wilds, where he alone is lord of all around him. To those who have +thus come into communication with the Aborigines, and have witnessed the +fearless courage and proud demeanour which a life of independence and +freedom always inspires, it cannot but be a matter of deep regret to see +them gradually dwindling away and disappearing before the presence of +Europeans. As the ravages of a flood destroy the country through which it +takes its course, and which its deposit ought only to have fertilized, +[Note 102 at end of para.] so the native, who ought to be improved by a +contact with Europeans, is overwhelmed and swept away by their approach. +In Van Diemen's Land the same result has been produced as at Sydney, but +in a more extended and exterminating manner.[Note 103 at end of para.] +There, instead of a few districts, the whole island is depopulated +of its original inhabitants, and only thirty or forty individuals, +the banished remnant of a once numerous people, are now existing as +exiles at Flinders Island, to tell the tale of their expatriation. [Note +104 at end of para.] In Western Australia the same process is gradually +but certainly going on among the tribes most in contact with the +Europeans. In South Australia it is the same; and short as is the time +that this province has been occupied as a British Colony, the results +upon the Aborigines are but too apparent in their diminished numbers, in +the great disproportion that has been produced between the sexes, and in +the large preponderance of deaths over births. A miserably diseased +condition, and the almost total absence of children, are immediate +consequences of this contact with Europeans. The increase or diminution +of the tribes can only be ascertained exactly in the different +districts, by their being regularly mustered, and lists kept of the +numbers and proportion of the sexes, births, deaths, etc. + +[Note 102: "Hard indeed is the fate of the children of the soil, +and one of the darkest enigmas of life lies in the degradation and +decay wrought by the very civilization which should succour, teach, +and improve."--ATHENAEUM.] + +[Note 103: "That the Aboriginal Tasmanian was naturally mild and +inoffensive in disposition, appears to be beyond doubt. A worm, however, +will turn, and the atrocities which were perpetrated against these +unoffending creatures may well palliate the indiscriminate, though +heart-rending slaughter they entailed. Such was the character of the +Tasmanian native before roused by oppression, and ere a continued +and systematic hostility had arisen between the races--ere 'their +hand was against every man, and every man's hand against them.'" +--MARTYN'S COLONIAL MAGAZINE, May, 1840.] + +[Note 104: "At the epoch of their deportation, in 1835, the number of the +natives amounted to 210. Visited by me in 1842, that is, after the +interval of seven years, they mustered only fifty-four individuals." +--STRZELECKI'S NEW SOUTH WALES, p. 352 + +Respecting the Aborigines of Van Diemen's Land, who were thus forcibly +removed, Mr. Chief Protector Robinson (who removed them) observes +(Parliamentary Report, p. 198), "When the natives were all assembled +at Flinders Island, in 1835, I took charge of them, and have continued +to do so ever since. I did not find them retaining that ferocious +character which they displayed in their own country; they shewed +no hostility, nor even hostile recollection towards the whites. +Unquestionably these natives assembled on the island were the same who +had been engaged in the outrages I have spoken of; many of them, before +they were removed, pointed out to me the spots where murders and other +acts of violence had been committed; they made no secret of +acknowledging their participation in such acts, and only considered them +a just retaliation for wrongs done to them or their progenitors. On +removal to the island they appeared to forget all these facts; they +could not of course fail to remember them, but they never recurred to +them."] + +In April, 1843, or only six and a half years after South Australia had +first been occupied, the Protector of the Aborigines in Adelaide +ascertained that the tribes, properly belonging to that neighbourhood, +consisted of 150 individuals, in the following proportions, namely, 70 +men, 39 women, and 41 children. Now, at the Murray, among a large number +of natives who, until 1842, were comparatively isolated from Europeans, +and among whom are frequently many different tribes, I found by an +accurate muster every month at Moorunde for a period of three years, that +the women, on an average, were equally numerous with the men, from which +I infer that such is usually the case in their original and natural +state. Taking this for granted, and comparing it with the proportions of +the Adelaide tribe, as given above, we shall find that in six years and a +half the females had diminished from an equality with the males, to from +70 to 80 per cent. less, and of course the tribe must have sustained also +a corresponding diminution with respect to children. + +[Note 105: This result seems to be generally borne out by the few accurate +returns that have hitherto been made on the subject. In Mr. Protector +Parker's report for his district, to the north-west of Port Phillip (for +January, 1843), that gentleman gives a census of 375 male natives, and 295 +female, which gives an excess of about 26 per cent. of males over females. +In 1834 Mr. Commissioner Lambie gives a census, for the district of +Manero, of 416 males and 321 females, or an excess of the former over the +latter of nearly 45 per cent. It would appear that the disproportion of +the sexes increases in a ratio corresponding to the length of time a +district has been occupied by settlers and their stock, and to the density +of the European population residing in it. Official returns for four +divisions of the Colony of New South Wales, give a decrease of the +proportion of females to males of fifteen per cent. in two years. Vide +Aborigines Protection Society Report, July, 1839, p. 69. In the same +Report, p. 70, Mr. Threlkeld states, that the Official Report for one +district gives only two women to 28 men, two boys, and no girls.] + +Again, in 1844, the Protector ascertained from the records he had kept +that, in the same tribe, there were, in four years, twenty-seven births +and FIFTY deaths, which shews, beyond all doubt, the gradual but certain +destruction that was going on among the tribe. If no means can be adopted +to check the evil, it must eventually lead to their total extermination. + +By comparing the twenty-seven births in four years with the number of +women, thirty-nine, it appears that there would be annually only one +child born among every six women: a result as unnatural as it is +evidently attributable to the increased prostitution that has taken +place, with regard both to Europeans and other native tribes, whom +curiosity has attracted to the town, but whom the Adelaide tribe were not +in the habit of meeting at all, or, at least, not in such familiar +intercourse prior to the arrival of the white people. This single cause, +with the diseases and miseries which it entails upon the Aborigines, is +quite sufficient to account for the paucity of births, and the additional +number of deaths that now occur among them. + +In the Moorunde statistics, given Chapter VI., the very small number of +infants compared with the number of women is still more strongly +illustrated; but in this case only those infants that lived and were +brought up by their mothers to the monthly musters were marked down; many +other births had, doubtless, taken place, where the children had died, or +been killed, but of which no notice is taken, as it would have been +impossible under the circumstances of such a mixture of tribes, and their +constantly changing their localities, to have obtained an accurate +account of all. + +Under the circumstances of our intercourse with the Aborigines as at +present constituted, the same causes which produced so exterminating an +effect in Sydney and other places, are still going on in all parts of +Australia occupied by Europeans, and must eventually lead to the same +result, if no controlling measures can be adopted to prevent it. + +Many attempts, upon a limited scale, have already been made in all the +colonies, but none have in the least degree tended to check the gradual +but certain extinction that is menacing this ill-fated people; nor is it +in my recollection that throughout the whole length and breadth of New +Holland, a single real or permanent convert to Christianity has yet been +made amongst them, by any of the missionaries engaged in their +instruction, many of whom have been labouring hopelessly for many years. + +In New South Wales, one of the oldest and longest established missions in +Australia was given up by the Rev. Mr. Threlkeld, after the fruitless +devotion of many years of toil. [Note 106 at end of para.] Neither have +the efforts hitherto made to improve the physical circumstances or social +relations of the Aborigines been attended with any better success. None +have yet been induced permanently to adopt our customs, or completely to +give up their wandering habits, or to settle down fixedly in one place, +and by cultivating the ground, supply themselves with the comforts and +luxuries of life. It is not that the New Hollander is not as apt and +intelligent as the men of any other race, or that his capacity for +receiving instruction, or appreciating enjoyment is less; on the contrary, +we have the fullest and most ample testimony from all who have been +brought much into contact with this people that the very contrary is the +case: a testimony that is completely borne out by the many instances on +record, of the quickness with which natives have learned our language, or +the facility with which temporarily they have accommodated themselves to +our habits and customs. + +[Note 106: Vide Parliamentary Reports on Australian Aborigines, 9th of +August, 1844, pages 160 and 161.--"In submitting to this decision, it is +impossible not to feel considerable disappointment to the expectations +formerly hoped to be realized in the conversion of some at least of the +Aborigines in this part of the colony, and not to express concern that so +many years of constant attention appear to have been fruitlessly +expended. It is however, perfectly apparent that the termination of the +mission has arisen solely from the Aborigines becoming extinct in these +districts, and the very few that remain elsewhere are so scattered, that +it is impossible to congregate them for instruction; and when seen in the +towns, they are generally unfit to engage in profitable conversation. The +thousands of Aborigines, if ever they did exist in these parts, decreased +to hundreds, the hundreds have lessened to tens, and the tens will +dwindle to units before a very few years will have passed away." + +"This mission to the Aborigines has ceased to exist, not from want of +support from the British Government, nor from the inclination of the +agent, but purely from the Aborigines themselves becoming extinct in these +parts; and in leaving this scene of much solitariness, privation, and +trial, it is earnestly hoped that He who fixes the bounds of our +habitation, apparently in Sydney for a season, will guide our feet through +life to his glory, and provide support for a numerous family, so that the +'ministry be not blamed.'"] + +On the natural intelligence of the native children, Mr. Moorhouse +remarks, after several years practical experience:-- + + +"They are as apt as European children so far as they have been tried, but +they have not been put to abstract reasoning. Their perceptive powers are +large, as they are much exercised in procuring food, etc. Anything +requiring perception only is readily mastered, the alphabet will be known +in a few lessons; figures are soon recognised, and the quantities they +represent, but addition from figures alone always presents difficulties +for a while, but in a little time, however, it is understood." + + +Upon the same subject, Captain Grey remarks, vol. ii. p. 374. + + +"They are as apt and intelligent as any other race of men I am acquainted +with; they are subject to the same affections, appetites, and passions as +other men." + + +Innumerable cases might be adduced, where native boys, or young men, and +sometimes even females, have been taken into the employment of the +settlers, and have lived with them as active and useful servants for many +months, and occasionally even years. Unfortunately, however, in all such +cases, they have eventually returned again to their savage life, and +given up the customs and habits they had assumed. The same result has +occurred among the many children who have been educated at the various +schools established for their instruction, in the different Colonies. +Numerous examples might be given of the great degree of proficiency made; +and often, of many of the scholars being in such a state of forwardness +and improvement, as reasonably to sanction the expectation, that they +might one day become useful and intelligent members of the community: +this hope has, however, hitherto, in almost every instance, been sooner +or later disappointed, and they have again descended from the civilized +to the savage state. What can be the causes then, that have operated to +produce such unfavourable results? + +If we admit, and it is admitted by all whose experience best qualifies +them to give an opinion, that the Australian is fully equal in natural +powers and intelligence, to the generality of mankind; it is very +evident, that where so little success has hitherto attended any attempts +to improve him, either morally or socially, there must either be some +radical defects in the systems adopted, or some strongly counteracting +causes to destroy their efficiency. I believe, that to both these +circumstances, may be traced the results produced. + +The following remarks, by Captain Grey, upon this subject, point out some +of the evils to which the natives are subject, and in a great degree, +account for the preference they appear to give to their own wild life and +habits. (Vol. 2. pp. 367 to 371.) He says:-- + + +"If we inquire into the causes which tend to detain them in their present +depressed condition, we shall find that the chief one is--'prejudice' The +Australians have been most unfairly represented as a very inferior race, +in fact as one occupying a scale in the creation which nearly places them +on a level with the brutes, and some years must elapse, ere a prejudice +so firmly rooted as this can be altogether eradicated, but certainly a +more unfounded one never had possession of the public mind. + +"Amongst the evils which the natives suffer in their present position, +one is an uncertain and irregular demand for their labour, that is to +say, they may one day have plenty of means for exerting their industry +afforded them by the settlers, and the next their services are not +required; so that they are necessarily compelled to have recourse to +their former irregular and wandering habits. + +"Another is the very insufficient reward for the services they render. As +an example of this kind, I will state the instance of a man who worked +during the whole season, as hard and as well as any white man, at getting +in the harvest for some setlers, and who only received bread, and +sixpence a day, whilst the ordinary labourers would earn at least fifteen +shillings. In many instances, they only receive a scanty allowance of +food, so much so, that some settlers have told me that the natives left +them because they had not enough to eat. + +"The evil consequence of this is, that a native finding he can gain as +much by the combined methods of hunting and begging, as he can by +working, naturally prefers the former and much more attractive mode of +procuring subsistence, to the latter one. + +"Many of the natives have not only a good idea of the value of money, but +even hoard it up for some particular purpose; several of them have shewn +me their little treasure of a few shillings, and have told me it was +their intention to save more until they had enough to buy a horse, a gun, +or some wished-for article, but their improvidence has always got the +better of their thriftiness, and this sum has eventually been spent in +treating their friends to bread and rice. + +"Another evil is the very extraordinary position in which they are placed +with regard to two distinct sets of laws; that is they are allowed to +exercise their own laws upon one another, and are again held amenable to +British law where British subjects are concerned. Thus no protection is +afforded them by the British law against the violence or cruelty of one +of their own race, and the law has only been hitherto known to them as +the means of punishment, but never as a code from which they can claim +protection or benefit. + +"The following instances will prove my assertion: In the month of October +1838, I saw early one morning some natives in the public street in Perth, +in the act of murdering a native woman, close to the store of the Messrs. +Habgood: many Europeans were present, amongst others a constable; but +there was no interference on their part until eventually the life of the +woman was saved by the courage of Mr. Brown, a gardener in Perth, who +rushed in amongst the natives, and knocked down the man who was holding +her; she then escaped into the house of the Messrs. Habgood, who treated +the poor creature with the utmost humanity. She was, however, wounded in +several places in the most severe and ghastly manner. + +"A letter I received from Mr. A. Bussel, (a settler in the southern part +of the colony,) in May, 1839, shews that the same scenes are enacted all +over it. In this case, their cow-keeper, (the native whose burial is +narrated at p. 330,) was speared by the others. He was at the time the +hired servant of Europeans, performing daily a stated service for them; +yet they slew him in open day-light, without any cause of provocation +being given by him. + +"Again, in October, 1838, the sister of a settler in the northern +district, told me that shortly before this period, she had, as a female +servant, a most interesting little native girl, not more than ten or +eleven years of age. This girl had just learned all the duties belonging +to her employment, and was regarded in the family as a most useful +servant, when some native, from a spirit of revenge, murdered this +inoffensive child in the most barbarous manner, close to the house; her +screams were actually heard by the Europeans under whose protection, and +in whose service she was living, but they were not in time to save her +life. This same native had been guilty of many other barbarous murders, +one of which he had committed in the district of the Upper Swan, in the +actual presence of Europeans. In June, 1839, he was still at large, +unmolested, even occasionally visiting Perth. + +"Their fondness for the bush and the habits of savage life, is fixed and +perpetuated by the immense boundary placed by circumstances between +themselves and the whites, which no exertions on their part can overpass, +and they consequently relapse into a state of hopeless passive +indifference. + +"I will state a remarkable instance of this:--The officers of the Beagle +took away with them a native of the name of Miago, who remained absent +with them for several months. I saw him on the North-west coast, on board +the Beagle, apparently perfectly civilized; he waited at the gun-room +mess, was temperate (never tasting spirits), attentive, cheerful, and +remarkably clean in his person. The next time I saw him was at Swan +River, where he had been left on the return of the Beagle. He was then +again a savage, almost naked, painted all over, and had been concerned in +several murders. Several persons here told me,--"you see the taste for a +savage life was strong in him, and he took to the bush again directly." +Let us pause for a moment and consider. + +"Miago, when he was landed, had amongst the white people none who would +be truly friends of his,--they would give him scraps from their table, +but the very outcasts of the whites would not have treated him as an +equal,--they had no sympathy with him,--he could not have married a white +woman,--he had no certain means of subsistence open to him,--he never +could have been either a husband or a father, if he had lived apart from +his own people;--where, amongst the whites, was he to find one who would +have filled for him the place of his black mother, whom he is much +attached to?--what white man would have been his brother?--what white +woman his sister? He had two courses left open to him,--he could either +have renounced all natural ties, and have led a hopeless, joyless life +amongst the whites,--ever a servant,--ever an inferior being;--or he +could renounce civilization, and return to the friends of his childhood, +and to the habits of his youth. He chose the latter course, and I think +that I should have done the same." + + +Such are a few of the disadvantages the natives have to contend with, if +they try to assimilate in their life and habits to Europeans, nor is +there one here enumerated, of which repeated instances have not come +under my own observation. If to these be added, the natural ties of +consanguinity, the authority of parents, the influence of the example of +relatives and friends, and the seducing attraction which their own habits +and customs hold out to the young of both sexes; first, by their offering +a life of idleness and freedom, to a people naturally indolent and +impatient of restraint; and secondly, by their pandering to their natural +passions: we shall no longer wonder that so little has been effected +towards ameliorating their condition, or inducing them to adopt habits +and customs that deprive them of those indulgences. + +In New South Wales and Port Phillip, the Government have made many +efforts in behalf of the Aborigines; for a series of years past, and at +present, the sum of about ten thousand pounds, is annually placed upon +the estimates, towards defraying the salaries of a Chief Protector, and +several subordinate ones, and for other expenses connected with the +natives. + +[Note: Not included in thei eBook, Table on pages 428-9: ABSTRACT +OF EXPENDITURE IN N.S.W ON ACCOUNT OF THE ABORIGINES FROM 1821 TO 1842 +INCLUSIVE.] + +In Western Australia a sum of money is also devoted annually towards +defraying the salaries of two Protectors, and other expenses connected +with the department. + +I am not, however, personally aware, what the particular arrangements may +be that have latterly been adopted in either of these colonies, for the +benefit of the Aborigines, or the degree of success which may have +attended them. I believe, however, that in both places, more has been +attempted, within the last three or four years, than had ever been the +case before. What the eventual result may be it is impossible to tell, +but with the past experience before me, I cannot persuade myself, that +any real or permanent good will ever be effected, until the influence +exercised over the young by the adults be destroyed, and they are freed +from the contagious effects of their example, and until means are +afforded them of supporting themselves in a new condition, and of forming +those social ties and connections in an improved state, which they must +otherwise be driven to seek for among the savage hordes, from which it is +attempted to reclaim them. + +In South Australia many efforts have been made in behalf of the +Aborigines, and an anxious desire for their welfare has frequently been +exhibited on the part of the Government, and of many of the colonists. +For the year 1845 the sum of 820 pounds is noted in the estimates for the +Aboriginal Department. This sum is distributed as follows:-- + + +Salary of Protector 300 pounds +Master of Native School at Walkerville 100 +Matron of School at Native Location 20 +Provisions 150 +Donation to Lutheran Mission 100 +Miscellaneous 150 + --- +Total 820 pounds + + +There are three native schools established in the province. The first is +that at the native location in the town of Adelaide, commenced in +December, 1839, by Mr. Klose, one of the Dresden missionaries. The +average attendance of children has been about sixteen, all of whom have +latterly been lodged as well as fed at the school. The progress made by +the children may be stated to have been as follows: on the 16th February, +1844-- + +14 were able to read polysyllables. +2 were able to read monosyllables. +2 could repeat the cardinal numbers. +14 were in addition. +3 in subtraction. +9 in multiplication. +2 in division. + +Most of the children could repeat the Lord's Prayer and Commandments, and +they were able to narrate the history of the Creation, the fall of our +first parents, and other portions of the Old and New Testament. A few +were able to write these subjects to dictation. In geography many of the +scholars knew the ordinary divisions of the earth, its shape, diameter, +circumference, and the names of the continents, oceans, seas, gulfs, etc. +etc. together with the general description of the inhabitants of each +part, as to colour, etc. Of the girls, fourteen had been taught to sew, +and have made upwards of fifty garments for themselves, besides several +shirts for Europeans. + +Mr. Klose receives as salary 33 pounds per annum from the Government, and +a remittance from his society at Dresden. The matron of the establishment +also receives 20 pounds from the Government. The average expense of +provisions for each child per week, amounts to two shillings and ten +pence. The cost of clothing each child per year is 2 pounds. Until very +recently this school was taught in the native language; but English is +now adopted, except in lecturing from Scripture, when the native language +is still retained. + +At Walkerville, about one mile from North Adelaide, another school has +been established under the superintendence of Mr. Smith, since May, 1844. +Up to October of the same year the average attendance of children had +been sixty-three. In that short time the progress had been very +satisfactory; all the children had passed from the alphabetical to the +monosyllabic class, and most had mastered the multiplication table; +eighteen could write upon the slate, and six upon paper; twelve girls had +commenced sewing, and were making satisfactory progress. + +They go four times in the week to the council chamber to be instructed by +gratuitous teachers. On Sunday evening service is performed according to +the Church of England by Mr. Fleming, and the children are said to be +attentive and well-behaved. The Methodists of the New Connection have +them also under spiritual instruction in the morning and afternoon of +each Sabbath, assisted by persons of other religious denominations. + +All instruction is given in English; their food is cooked by the elder +children, (who also provide the firewood,) and distributed by themselves +under the master's eye The cook is said to take good care of himself, and +certainly his appearance does not belie the insinuation, for he is by far +the fattest boy in the lot. The school building is a plain, low cottage, +containing a school-room, a sleeping-room for the male children, another +for the female, and apartments for the master and mistress. There is also +an old out-building attached, where the children perform their ablutions +in wet weather. Mr. and Mrs. Smith receive 100 pounds. per annum from the +Colonial Government for their services. The children of this school have +not yet been generally provided with other clothing than a small blanket +each. The third school was only just commenced at Encounter Bay, where it +has been established through the influence and exertions of Mr. Meyer, +one of the missionaries. The Government give 20 pounds per annum, and the +settlers of the neighbourhood 100 bushels of wheat, and some mutton. Six +or eight children are expected to be lodged and boarded at this school, +with the means at present existing. + +Besides the establishment of schools, there is a Protector resident in +Adelaide to take the management of the aboriginal department, to afford +medical assistance and provisions to such of the aged or diseased as +choose to apply for them, and to remunerate any natives who may render +services to the Government, or the Protectorate. At Moorunde, upon the +Murray, the natives are mustered once a month by the Resident magistrate, +and two pounds and a half of flour issued to each native who chooses to +attend. This is occasionally done at Port Lincoln, and has had a very +beneficial effect. Once in the year, on the Queen's birthday, a few +blankets are distributed to some of the Aborigines at Adelaide, Moorunde, +Encounter Bay, and Port Lincoln, amounting in all to about 300. Four +natives are also provisioned by the Government as attaches to the police +force at different out-stations, and are in many respects very useful. + +Exclusive of the Government exertions in behalf of the Aborigines, there +are in the province four missionaries from the Lutheran Missionary +Society at Dresden, two of whom landed in October 1838, and two in August +1840. Of these one is stationed at the native location, and (as has +already been stated) acts as schoolmaster. A second is living twelve +miles from Adelaide, upon a section of land, bought by the Dresden +Society, with the object of endeavouring to settle the natives, and +inducing them to build houses upon the property, but the plan seems +altogether a failure. It was commenced in November 1842, but up to +November 1844 natives had only been four months at the place; and on one +occasion a period of nine months elapsed, without their ever visiting it +at all, although frequently located at other places in the neighbourhood. + +A third missionary is stationed at Encounter Bay, and is now conducting a +school, mainly established through his own exertions and influence. + +The fourth is stationed at Port Lincoln. All the four missionaries have +learned the dialects of the tribes where they are stationed, and three +have published vocabularies and grammars as the proof of their industry. + +Such is the general outline of the efforts that have hitherto been made +in South Australia, and the progress made. It may be well to inquire, +what are likely to be the results eventually under the existing +arrangements. From the first establishment of the schools, until June +1843, the children were only instructed at the location, their food was +given to them to take to the native encampments to cook, and they were +allowed to sleep there at night. The natural consequence was, that the +provisions intended for the sonolars were shared by the other natives, +whilst the evil influence of example, and the jeers of their companions, +did away with any good impression produced by their instruction. I have +myself, upon going round the encampments in Adelaide by night, seen the +school-children ridiculed by the elder boys, and induced to join them in +making a jest of what they had been taught during the day to look upon as +sacred. + +A still more serious evil, resulting from this system was, that the +children were more completely brought into the power, and under the +influence of the parents, and thus their natural taste for an indolent +and rambling life, was constantly kept up. The boys naturally became +anxious to participate and excel in the sports, ceremonies, or pursuits +of their equals, and the girls were compelled to yield to the customs of +their tribe, and break through every lesson of decency or morality, which +had been inculcated. + +Since June, 1843, the system has so far been altered, that the children, +whilst under instruction, are boarded and lodged at the school houses, +and as far as practicable, the boys and girls are kept separate. There +are still, however, many evils attending the present practice, most of +which arise from the inadequacy of the funds, applicable to the +Aborigines, and which must be removed before any permanent good can be +expected from the instruction given. The first of these, and perhaps one +of the greatest, is that the adult natives make their encampments +immediately in the neighbourhood of the schools, whilst the children, +when out of school, roam in a great measure at will, or are often +employed collecting firewood, etc. about the park lands, a place almost +constantly occupied by the grown up natives, there is consequently nearly +as much intercourse between the school children and the other natives, +and as great an influence exercised over them by the parents and elders, +as if they were still allowed to frequent the camps. + +Another evil is, that no inducement is held out to the parents, to put +their children to school, or to allow them to remain there. They cannot +comprehend the advantage of having their children clothed, fed, or +educated, whilst they lose their services; on the contrary, they find +that all the instruction, advice, or influence of the European, tends to +undermine among the children their own customs and authority, and that +when compelled to enforce these upon them, they themselves incur the +odium of the white men. Independently, however, of this consideration, +and of the natural desire of a parent to have his family about him, he is +in reality a loser by their absence, for in many of the methods adopted +for hunting, fishing, or similar pursuits, the services even of young +children are often very important. For the deprivation of these, which he +suffers when his children are at school, he receives no equivalent, and +it is no wonder therefore, that by far the great majority of natives +would prefer keeping their children to travel with them, and assist in +hunting or fishing. It is a rare occurrence, for parents to send, or even +willingly [Note 107 at end of para.] to permit their children to go to +school, and the masters have consequently to go round the native +encampments to collect and bring away the children against their wishes. +This is tacitly submitted to at the time, but whenever the parents +remove to another locality, the children are informed of it, and at +once run away to join them; so that the good that has been done in school, +is much more rapidly undone at the native camp. I have often heard the +parents complain indignantly of their children being thus taken; and +one old man who had been so treated, but whose children had run away +and joined him again, used vehemently to declare, that if taken any more, +he would steal some European children instead, and take them into the +bush to teach them; he said he could learn them something useful, +to make weapons and nets, to hunt, or to fish, but what good did the +Europeans communicate to his children? + +[Note 107: "Mr. Gunter expressed very decidedly his opinion, that the +blacks do not like Mr. Watson, and that they especially do not like him, +SINCE HE HAS TAKEN CHILDREN FROM THEM BY FORCE: he would himself like to +have some children under his care, IF HE COULD PROCURE THEM BY PROPER +MEANS."--Memorandum respecting Wellington Valley, by Sir G. Gipps, +November 1840.] + +A third, and a very great evil, is that, after a native boy or girl has +been educated and brought up at the school, no future provision is made +for either, nor have they the means of following any useful occupation, +or the opportunity of settling themselves in life, or of forming any +domestic ties or connections whatever, save by falling back again upon +the rude and savage life from which it was hoped education would have +weaned them. It is unnatural, therefore, to suppose that under existing +circumstances they should ever do other than relapse into their former +state; we cannot expect that individuals should isolate themselves +completely from their kind, when by so doing they give up for ever all +hope of forming any of those domestic ties that can render their lives +happy. + +Such being the very limited, and perhaps somewhat equivocal advantages we +offer the Aborigines, we can hardly expect that much or permanent benefit +can accrue to them; and ought not to be disappointed if such is not the +case. [Note 108 at end of para.] At present it is difficult to say what +are the advantages held out to the natives by the schools, since they have +no opportunity of turning their instruction to account, and must from +necessity relapse again to the condition of savages, when they leave +school. Taken as children from their parents, against the wishes of +the latter, there are not means sufficient at the schools for keeping +them away from the ill effects of the example and society of the most +abandoned of the natives around. They are not protected from the power +or influence of their parents and relatives, who are always encouraging +them to leave, or to practise what they have been taught not to do. +The good that is instilled one day is the next obliterated by evil +example or influence. They have no future openings in life which +might lead them to become creditable and useful members of society; +and however well disposed a child may be, there is but one sad and +melancholy resource for it at last, that of again joining its tribe, +and becoming such as they are. Neither is there that disinclination +on the part of the elder children to resume their former mode of +life and customs that might perhaps have been expected; for whilst +still at school they see and participate enough in the sports, +pleasures, or charms of savage life to prevent their acquiring a distaste +to it; and when the time arrives for their departure, they are generally +willing and anxious to enter upon the career before them, and take their +part in the pursuits or duties of their tribe. Boys usually leave school +about fourteen, to join in the chase, or learn the practice of war. Girls +are compelled to leave about twelve, through the joint influence of +parents and husbands, to join the latter; and those only who have been +acquainted with the life of slavery and degradation a native female is +subject to, can at all form an opinion of the wretched prospect before +her. + +[Note 108: The importance of a change in the system and policy adopted +towards the Aborigines, and the urgent necessity for placing the schools +upon a different and better footing, appears from the following extract +from a despatch from Governor Hutt to Lord Stanley, 21st January, 1843, in +which the difficulties and failure attending the present system are +stated. Mr. Hutt says (Parliamentary Reports, p. 416). "It is to the +schools, of course, that we must look for any lasting benefit to be +wrought amongst the natives, and I regret most deeply the total +failure of the school instituted at York, and the partial failure +of that at Guilford, both of which at FIRST promised so well. The +fickle disposition of these people, in youth as in older years, +incapacitate them from any long continued exertions, whether of +learning or labour, whilst from the roving lives of the parents in +search of food, the children, if received into the schools, must +be entirely supported at the public expense. This limits the sphere +of our operations, by restricting the number of the scholars who +can thus be taken charge of. Through the kindly co-operation of the +Wesleyan Society at Perth, and the zealous pastoral exertions of the Rev. +Mr. King at Fremantle, the schools at both these places have been +efficiently maintained; but in the country, and apart from the large +towns, to which the Aborigines have an interest in resorting in large +numbers for food and money, the formation of schools of a lasting +character will be for some time a work of doubt and of difficulty."] + +There are two other points connected with the natives to which I will +briefly advert: the one, relative to the language in which the school +children are taught, the other, the policy, or otherwise, of having +establishments for the natives in the immediate vicinity of a town, or of +a numerous European population. + +With respect to the first, I may premise, that for the first four years +the school at the location in Adelaide was conducted entirely in the +native tongue. To this there are many objections. + +First, the length of time and labour required for the instructor to +master the language he has to teach in. + +Secondly, the very few natives to whom he can impart the advantages of +instruction, as an additional school, and another teacher would be +required for every tribe speaking a different dialect. + +Thirdly, the sudden stop that would be put to all instruction if the +preceptor became ill, or died, as no one would be found able to supply +his place in a country where, from the number, and great differences of +the various dialects, there is no inducement to the public to learn any +of them. + +Fourthly, that by the children being taught in any other tongue than that +generally spoken by the colonists, they are debarred from the advantage +of any casual instruction or information which they might receive from +others than their own teachers, and from entering upon duties or +relations of any kind with the Europeans among whom they are living, but +whose language they cannot speak. + +Fifthly, that, by adhering to the native language, the children are more +deeply confirmed in their original feelings and prejudices, and more +thoroughly kept under the influence and direction of their own people. + +Among the colonists themselves there have scarcely been two opinions upon +the subject, and almost all have felt, that the system originally adopted +was essentially wrong. It has recently been changed, and the English is +now adopted instead of the native language. I should not have named this +subject at all, had I not been aware that the missionaries themselves +still retain their former impressions, and that although they have +yielded to public opinion on this point, they have not done so from a +conviction of its utility. + +The second point to which I referred,--the policy, or otherwise, of +having native establishments near a populous European settlement, is a +much more comprehensive question, and one which might admit, perhaps, of +some reasons on both sides, although, upon the whole, those against it +greatly preponderate. + +The following are the reasons I have usually heard argued for proximity +to town. + +1st. It is said that the children sooner acquire the English language by +mixing among the towns people. This, however, to say the least, is a very +negative advantage, for in such a contact it is far more probable that +they will learn evil than good; besides, if means were available to +enable the masters to keep their scholars under proper restrictions, +there would no longer be even the opportunity for enjoying this very +equivocal advantage. + +2nd. It is stated that the natives are sooner compelled to give up their +wandering habits, as there is no game near a town. This might be well +enough if they followed any better employment, but the contrary is the +case; and with respect to the school-children, the restriction would be +the correction of a bad habit, which they ought never to be allowed to +indulge in, and one which might soon be done away with entirely if +sufficient inducement were held out to the parents to put their children +to school, and allow them to remain there. + +3rd. It is thought that a greater number of children can be collected in +the vicinity of a town than elsewhere. This may perhaps be the case at +present, but would not continue so if means were used to congregate the +natives in their own proper districts. + +4th. It is said that provisions and clothing are cheaper in town and more +easily procured than elsewhere. This is the only apparently valid reason +of the whole, but it is very questionable whether it is sufficient to +counterbalance the many evils which may result from too close a +contiguity to town, and especially so as far as the adults are concerned. +With respect to the children, if kept within proper bounds, and under +proper discipline, it is of little importance where they may be located, +and perhaps a town may for such purposes be sometimes the best. With the +older natives however it is far different, and the evils resulting to +them from too close contact with a large European population, are most +plainly apparent; in,-- + +1st. The immorality, which great as it is among savages in their natural +state, is increased in a tenfold degree when encouraged and countenanced +by Europeans, and but little opening is left for the exercise of +missionary influence or exertions. + +2nd. The dreadful state of disease which is superinduced, and which +tends, in conjunction with other causes as before stated, to bring about +the gradual extinction of the race. + +3rd. The encouragement a town affords to idleness, and the opportunities +to acquire bad habits, such as begging, pilfering, drinking, etc. the +effects of which must also have a very bad moral tendency upon the +children. + +The town of Adelaide appears capable of supporting about six hundred +natives on an average. Many of these obtain their food by going errands, +by carrying wood or water, or by performing other light work of a similar +kind. Many are supported by the offal of a place where so much animal +food is consumed; but by far the greater number are dependent upon +charity, and some few even extort their subsistence from women or +children by threats, if they have the opportunity of doing so without +fear of detection. + +The number of natives usually frequenting the town of Adelaide averages +perhaps 300, but occasionally there are even as many as 800. These do not +belong to the neighbourhood of the town itself, for the Adelaide tribe +properly so called only embraces about 150 individuals. The others come +in detached parties from almost all parts of the colony. Some from the +neighbourhood of Bonney's Well, or 120 miles south; some from the +Broughton, or 120 miles north; some from the upper part of the Murray, or +nearly 200 miles east. Thus are assembled at one spot sometimes portions +of tribes the most distant from each other, and whose languages, customs +and ceremonies are quite dissimilar. If any proof were wanted to shew the +power of European influence in removing prejudices or effecting a total +revulsion of their former habits and customs, a stronger one could +scarcely be given than this motley assembly of "all nations and +languages." In their primitive state such a meeting could never take +place; the distant tribes would never have dreamt of attempting to pass +through the country of the intermediate ones, nor would the latter have +allowed a passage if it had been attempted. + +I have remarked that in Adelaide many of the natives support themselves +by light easy work, or going errands; there are also a dozen, or fourteen +young men employed regularly as porters to storekeepers with whom they +spend two-thirds of their time, and make themselves very useful. At +harvest time many natives assist the settlers. At Encounter Bay during +1843, from 70 to 100 acres of wheat or barley, were reaped by them; at +Adelaide from 50 to 60 acres, and at Lynedoch Valley they aided in +cutting and getting in 200 acres. Other natives have occasionally +employed themselves usefully in a variety of ways, and one party of young +men collected and delivered to a firm in town five tons of mimosa bark up +to December 1843. At the native location during the year 1842, three +families of natives assisted by the school-children, had dug with the +spade the ground, and had planted and reaped more than one acre of maize, +one acre of potatoes, and half an acre of melons, besides preparing +ground for the ensuing year. On the Murray River native shepherds and +stock-keepers have hitherto been employed almost exclusively, and have +been found to answer well. Most of the settlers in that district have one +or more native youths constantly living at their houses. + +In concluding an account of the present state and prospects of the +Aborigines and of the efforts hitherto made on their behalf, I may state +that I am fully sensible that to put the schools upon a proper footing +and to do away with the serious disadvantages I have pointed out as at +present attending them, or to adopt effective means for assembling, +feeding, or instructing the natives in their own respective districts +would involve a much greater expenditure than South Australia has +hitherto been able to afford from her own resources; and I have therefore +called attention to the subject, not for the purpose of censuring what it +is impossible to remedy without means; but in the sincere and earnest +hope that an interest in behalf of a people who are generally much +misrepresented, and who are certainly in justice entitled to expect at +our hands much more than they receive, will be excited in the breasts of +the British public, who are especially their debtors on many accounts. + +I am aware that the subject of the Aborigines is one of a very difficult +and embarrassing nature in many respects, and I know that evils and +imperfections will occasionally occur, in spite of the utmost efforts to +prevent them. No system of policy can be made to suit all circumstances +connected with a subject so varied and perplexing, and especially so, +where every new arrangement and all benevolent intentions are restrained +or limited, by the deficiency of pecuniary means to carry out the object +in a proper manner. Already the subject of apprenticing the natives, or +teaching them a trade, has been under the consideration of the +Government, but has been delayed from being brought into operation by the +want of funds sufficient to carry the object into effect. It is intended, +I believe, to make the experiment as soon as means are available for that +purpose. + +My duties as an officer of the Government having been principally +connected with the more numerous, but distant tribes of the interior, I +can bear testimony to the anxious desire of the Government to promote the +welfare of the natives. + +I have equal pleasure in recording the great interest that prevails on +their behalf among their numerous friends in the colonies, and the +general kindness and good feeling that have been exhibited towards them +on the part of a large proportion of the colonists of Australia. It is in +the hope that this good feeling may be promoted and strengthened that I +have been led to enter into the details of the preceding pages. In +bringing before the public instances of a contrary conduct or feeling, I +by no means wish to lead to the impression that such are now of very +frequent or general occurrence, and I trust my motives may not be +misunderstood. My sole, my only wish has been to bring about an +improvement in the terms of intercourse, which subsists between the +settlers and the Aborigines. Whilst advocating the cause of the latter, I +am not insensible to the claims of the former, who leaving their native +country and their friends, cheerfully encounter the inconveniences, +toils, privations, and dangers which are necessarily attendant upon +founding new homes in the remote and trackless wilds of other climes. +Strongly impressed with the advantages, and the necessity of +colonization, I am only anxious to mitigate its concomitant evils, and by +effecting an amelioration in the treatment and circumstances of the +Aborigines, point out the means of rendering the residence or pursuits of +the settler among an uncivilized community, less precarious, and less +hazardous than they have been. My object has been to shew the result, I +may almost say, the necessary result of the system at present in force, +when taking possession of and occupying a country where there are +indigenous races. By shewing the complete failure of all efforts hitherto +made, to prevent the oppression and eventual extinction of these +unfortunate people, I would demonstrate the necessity of remodelling the +arrangements made on their behalf, and of adopting a more equitable and +liberal system than any we have yet attempted. + +I believe that by far the greater majority of the settlers in all the +Australian Colonies would hail with real pleasure, the adoption of any +measures calculated to remove the difficulties, which at present beset +our relations with the Aborigines; but to be effectual, these measures, +at the same time that they afford, in some degree, compensation and +support to the dispossessed and starving native--must equally hold out to +the settler and the stockholder that security and protection, which he +does not now possess, but which he is fairly entitled to expect, under +the implied guarantee given to him by the Government, when selling to him +his land, or authorizing him to locate in the more remote districts of +the country. + +From a long experience, and an attentive observation of what has been +going on around me, I am perfectly satisfied, that unless some great +change be made in our system, things will go on exactly as they have +done, and in a few years more not a native will be left to tell the tale +of the wrongs and sufferings of his unhappy race. I am equally convinced +that all one-sided legislation--all measures having reference solely to +the natives must fail. The complete want of success attending the +protecting system, and all other past measures, clearly shew, that unless +the interests of the two classes can be so interwoven and combined, that +both may prosper together; no real good can be hoped for from our best +efforts to ameliorate the condition of the savage. In all future plans it +is evident that the native must have the inducements and provocations to +crime destroyed or counteracted, as far as it may be practicable to +effect this, and the settler must be convinced that it is his interest to +treat the native with kindness and consideration, and must be able to +feel that he is no longer exposed to risk of life or property for +injuries or aggressions, which, as an individual, he has not induced. + +I have now nearly discharged the duty I have undertaken--a duty which my +long experience among the natives, and an intimate acquaintance with +their peculiarities, habits, and customs, has in a measure almost forced +upon me. In fulfilling it, I have been obliged to enter at some length +upon the subject, to give as succinct an account as I could of the +unfavourable impressions that have often, but unjustly, been entertained +of the New Hollanders: of the difficulties and disadvantages they have +laboured under, of the various relations that have subsisted, or now +subsist between them and the colonists, of the different steps that have +been adopted by the Government or others, to ameliorate their condition, +and of the degree of success or otherwise that has attended these +efforts. I have stated, that from the result of my own experience and +observation, for a long series of years past, from a practical +acquaintance with the character and peculiarities of the Aborigines, and +after a deliberate and attentive consideration of the measures that have +been hitherto pursued, I have unwillingly been forced to the conviction, +that some great and radical defect has been common to all; that we have +not hitherto accomplished one single, useful, or permanent result; and +that unless a complete change in our system of policy be adopted for the +future, there is not the slightest hope of our efforts being more +successful in times to come, than they have been in times past. That I am +not alone or singular in the view which I take on this subject, may be +shewn from various sources, but most forcibly from the opinions or +statements of those, who from being upon the spot, and personally +acquainted with the real facts of the case, may be supposed to be most +competent to form just conclusions, and most worthy of having weight +attached to their opinions. The impression on the public mind in the +colonies, with respect to the general effect of the measures that have +heretofore been adopted, may be gathered from the many opinions or +quotations to which I have already referred in my remarks; many others +might be adduced, if necessary, but one or two will suffice. + +The following extract is from a speech by A. Forster, Esq. at a meeting +held to celebrate the anniversary of the South Australian Missionary +Society, on the 6th September, 1843, and at which the Governor of the +Colony presided:-- + + +"This colony had been established for nearly seven years, and during the +whole of that time the natives had been permitted to go about the streets +in a state of nudity. [Note 109 at end of para.] This was not only an +outrage on decency and propriety, but it was demoralising to the natives +themselves. Like Adam, after having come in contact with the tree of +knowledge, they had begun to see their own nakedness, and were ashamed +of it. If they could give them a nearer approach to humanity by clothing +them, if they could make them look like men, they would then, perhaps, +begin to think like men. What he complained of was, not that they were +in a low and miserable condition, but that no effort had been made to +rescue them from that condition." + +[Note 109: And yet a law is passed, subjecting natives, who appear thus, +to punishment!--How are they to clothe themselves?] + +"The circumstances, too, of the aborigines called upon them for increased +exertion. They were wasting away with disease--they were dying on the +scaffold--they were being shot down in mistake for native dogs, and their +bleeding and ghastly heads had been exhibited on poles, as scare-crows to +their fellows." + + +The report of the Missionary Society, read on the same occasion, says, + + +"Though it is undeniable that there is much to discourage in the small +results which can yet be reckoned from these efforts, and a variety of +secondary means might be brought to bear with great advantage on the +condition of the natives, still we must exercise faith in the power of +the Spirit of God, over the most savage soul, in subduing the wicked +passions and inclining the heart unto wisdom by exalted views of a future +state, and of the divine character and will." + + +Captain Grey's opinion of the little good that had ever been +accomplished, may be gathered from the following quotation, and which is +fully as applicable to the state of the natives in 1844, as it was in +1841. Vol. ii. p. 366, he says, + + +"I wish not to assert, that the natives have been often treated with +wanton cruelty, but I do not hesitate to say, that no real amelioration +of their condition has been effected, and that much of negative evil, and +indirect injury has been inflicted on them." + + +Upon the same subject, the Committee of Management of the Native School +at Perth, Swan River, Western Australia, state in their 3rd Annual +Report, dated 1844. + + +"With regard to the physical condition of the native children, and those +who are approaching to mature life, it may be observed, that they are +somewhat improving, though slowly, we trust surely. We find that to undo +is a great work; to disassociate them from their natural ideas, habits, +and practices which are characteristic of the bush life, is a greater +difficulty, for notwithstanding the provisions of sleeping berths in good +rooms, also of tables, etc. for their use, and which are peculiar to +civilised life, and with which they are associated, yet they naturally +verge towards, and cling to aboriginal education, and hence to squat on +the sand to eat, to sleep a night in the bush, to have recourse to a +Byly-a-duck man for ease in sickness; these to them seem reliefs and +enjoyments from these restraints which civilized life entails upon them." + +"With regard to the mental improvement of the native children, we cannot +say much." + +"As to the religious state of the pupils in the institution we have +signs, improvements, and encouragements, which say to us, 'Go on.'" + + +The following quotation from Count Strzelecki's work only just published +(1845), shews the opinion of that talented and intelligent traveller, +after visiting various districts of New South Wales, Port Phillip, Van +Diemen's Land, and Flinders' Island, and after a personal acquaintance +with, and experience among the Aborigines:-- + + +"Thus, in New South Wales, since the time that the fate of the +Australasian awoke the sympathies of the public, neither the efforts of +the missionary, nor the enactments of the Government, and still less the +Protectorate of the "Protectors," have effected any good. The attempts to +civilize and christianize the Aborigines, from which the preservation and +elevation of their race was expected to result, HAVE UTTERLY FAILED, +though it is consolatory, even while painful, to confess, that NEITHER +THE ONE NOR THE OTHER ATTEMPT HAS BEEN CARRIED INTO EXECUTION, WITH THE +SPIRIT WHICH ACCORDS WITH ITS PRINCIPLES." + + +With such slight encouragement in colonies where the best results are +supposed to have been obtained, and with instances of complete failure in +others, it is surely worth while to inquire, why there has been such a +signal want of success?--and whether or not any means can be devised that +may hold out better hopes for the future? I cannot and I would not +willingly believe, that the question is a hopeless one. The failure of +past measures is no reason that future ones should not be more +successful, especially when we consider, that all past efforts on behalf +of the Aborigines have entirely overlooked the wrongs and injuries they +are suffering under from our mere presence in their country, whilst none +have been adapted to meet the exigencies of the peculiar relations they +are placed in with regard to the colonists. The grand error of all our +past or present systems--the very fons et origo mali appears to me to +consist in the fact, that we have not endeavoured to blend the interests +of the settlers and Aborigines together; and by making it the interest of +both to live on terms of kindness and good feeling with each, bring about +and cement that union and harmony which ought ever to subsist between +people inhabiting the same country. So far, however, from our measures +producing this very desirable tendency, they have hitherto, +unfortunately, had only a contrary effect. By our injustice and +oppression towards the natives, we have provoked them to retaliation and +revenge; whilst by not affording security and protection to the settlers, +we have driven them to protect themselves. Mutual distrusts and mutual +misunderstandings have been the necessary consequence, and these, as must +ever be the case, have but too often terminated in collisions or +atrocities at which every right-thinking mind must shudder. To prevent +these calamities for the future; to check the frightful rapidity with +which the native tribes are being swept away from the earth, and to +render their presence amidst our colonists and settlers, not as it too +often hitherto has been, a source of dread and danger, but harmless, and +to a certain extent, even useful and desirable, is an object of the +deepestinterest and importance, both to the politician and to the +philanthropist. I have strong hopes, that means may be devised, to bring +about, in a great measure, these very desirable results; and I would +suggest, that such means only should be tried, as from being just in +principle, and equally calculated to promote the interests of both races, +may, in their practical adoption, hold out the fairest prospect of +efficacy and success. + + + + +Chapter IX. + + + +SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPROVEMENT OF SYSTEM ADOPTED TOWARDS THE NATIVES. + + +In the preceding chapters I have given a general outline of the +character, manners, and customs of the Aborigines of Australia, and of +the effects produced upon them by a contact with civilization. + +I have thus endeavoured to lay before the public their present state and +future prospects, and as far as I am able, have attempted to explain what +appear to me the reasons that so little success has hitherto attended +Missionary, or other efforts, in their behalf. I would sincerely hope, +that the accounts which I have given, may not be altogether useless; but +that a certain knowledge of the real position of the natives, of the just +claims they have upon us, and of the little prospect that exists of any +real or permanent good being effected for them, until a great alteration +takes place in our system, and treatment, may be the means of attracting +attention to their condition, and of enlisting the sympathy of my +fellow-countrymen in their cause. + +Englishmen have ever been ready to come forward to protect the weak, or +the oppressed; nor could they lend their aid to promote a greater, or a +nobler work, than that of endeavouring, to arrest the decay, and avert +the destruction which at present threatens the aboriginal races of our +Australian colonies; and to try at least to bring within the pale of +christianity and civilization, a people hitherto considered as the +lowest, and most irreclaimable of mankind, but whose natural capabilities +and endowments, are, I feel assured, by no means inferior to those of the +most favoured nations. + +I shall now briefly suggest such alterations and additions, in the system +of instruction and policy adopted towards them, as appear to me likely to +prove beneficial. + +I am aware, that in carrying out the improvements I propose, a greatly +increased expenditure on behalf of the natives would be necessary, beyond +what has hitherto been allowed by any of the Colonial Governments. + +It appears to me, however, that they are justly entitled to expect, at +our hands, some compensation for the injuries our presence unavoidably +inflicts, and some alleviation of the consequent miseries they are +suffering under. + +If we are sincere in our desires and efforts to promote the improvement, +or prevent the decay of this unfortunate people, we are bound to make our +measures sufficiently comprehensive to hold out some reasonable hope of +success, otherwise our labour and money are only thrown away. + +I do not believe that there is any one practically acquainted with the +present state of our relations with the Aborigines, and the system +adopted towards them, its working, defects, and inaptitude to overcome +opposing difficulties, who would conscientiously assert that there is the +least prospect of any greater benefits resulting in future than have been +realized up to the present time. + +There is another reason, independently of justice or humanity, one which, +with some, may perhaps have more weight, as a motive for extending and +amending our policy towards the natives. I mean self-interest. If our +measures were calculated to afford them that protection which we claim +for ourselves; and in place of those resources we have deprived them of, +to offer to them a certain and regular supply of food in their respective +districts, their wandering habits would be partially restrained, and a +degree of influence and authority acquired over the whole aboriginal +population, in contact with Europeans, which would counteract their +natural propensities. The flocks and herds of the settlers, and the lives +of his family and servants, would be as unmolested and uninjured as among +our own people. There would no longer occur those irritating aggressions, +or bloody retaliations, which have too often taken place heretofore, +between the black and the white man; and the misfortune of always having +the border districts in a state of excitement and alarm, would be +avoided, whilst the expense and inconvenience of occasionally sending +large parties of military and police, to coerce or punish transgressors +that they can rarely meet with, would be altogether dispensed with. + +Unfortunately, the system I propose has been so little tried in +Australia, that but few instances of its practical results can be +adduced. There is one instance, however, which, from its coming nearer to +it than any other, may serve to exemplify the success that might be +expected. The case I allude to, is that of the establishment of the +Government post at Moorunde, upon the Murray, in October 1841, by His +Excellency Governor Grey. The circumstances which led to the formation of +this post, arose from the disturbed and dangerous state the river route +from New South Wales was in at the time, from the fearful losses that had +occurred both of life and property, and the dread entertained by many, +that the out-stations, which were formed along the line of hills fronting +the Murray, would be subject to irruptions from the natives. + +Between the 16th of April, and 27th of August, or in about four months, +four several affrays had taken place between the Aborigines and +Europeans, in which many of the latter had been killed, and stock, drays, +and other property, had been taken to a great value, (in one instance +alone amounting to 5,000 sheep, besides drays and stores); on the other +hand the sacrifice of native life had been very great, and was admitted +in one case, to have amounted to thirty individuals, exclusive of many +who were perhaps mortally wounded. Four different parties had been sent +up the river during this short period, to punish aggressions. or protect +property. In one of these the Europeans were worsted and driven back by +the natives, in another a number amounting to sixty-eight Europeans, were +absent for upwards of six weeks, at an immense expense, and were then +obliged to return without bringing in a single culprit from the offending +tribes. + +[Note 110: In this latter case, the Commissioner of Police, and the +greater number of his men, accompanied the expedition, leaving of course +the colony unprotected, and ordinary civil arrangements at a stand still +until their return. I have already remarked, the little chance there is, +of either the police or military ever succeeding in capturing native +offenders, and how very frequently it has occurred, that in their attempts +to do so, either through mistake, or from mismanagement, they have very +often been guilty of most serious and lamentable acts of injury and +aggression upon the innocent and the unoffending. As a mere matter of +policy, or financial arrangement, I believe it would in the long run, +be prudent and economical, to adopt a liberal and just line of treatment +towards the Aborigines. I believe by this means, we should gain a +sufficient degree of influence, to induce them always to GIVE UP OFFENDERS +THEMSELVES; and I believe that this is the ONLY MEANS by which we can ever +hope to ensure their CAPTURE.] + +The line of route had become unsafe and dangerous for any party coming +from New South Wales; a feeling of bitter hostility, arising from a sense +of injury and aggression, had taken possession both of the natives and +the Europeans, and it was evident for the future, that if the European +party was weak, the natives would rob and murder them, and if otherwise, +that they would commit wholesale butchery upon the natives. It was to +remedy this melancholy state of affairs, that the Government station at +Moorunde was established, and his Excellency the Governor, did me the +honour to confide to my management the carrying out the objects proposed. + +The instructions I received, and the principles upon which I attempted to +carry out those instructions, were exclusively those of conciliation and +kindness. I made it my duty to go personally amongst the most distant and +hostile tribes, to explain to them that the white man wished to live with +them, upon terms of amity, and that instead of injuring, he was most +anxious to hold out the olive branch of peace. + +By the liberality of the Government, I had it in my power once every +month, to assemble all the natives who chose to collect, whether from +near or more distant tribes, and to give to each a sufficiency of flour +to last for about two days, and once in the year, at the commencement of +winter, to bestow upon some few of the most deserving, blankets as a +protection against the cold. + +How far success attended the system that was adopted, or the exertions +that were made, it is scarcely perhaps becoming in me to say: where the +object, however, is simply and solely to try to benefit the Aborigines, +and by contrasting the effects of different systems, that have been +adopted towards them, to endeavour to recommend the best, I must, even at +the risk of being deemed egotistical, point out some of the important and +beneficial results that accrued at Moorunde. + +In the first place, I may state that the dread of settling upon the +Murray, has so far given place to confidence, that from Wellington (near +the Lake), to beyond the Great South Bend, a distance of more than 100 +miles, the whole line of river is now settled and occupied by stock, +where, in 1841, there was not a single European, a herd of cattle, or a +flock of sheep; nay, the very natives who were so much feared then, are +looked upon now as an additional inducement to locate, since the services +of the boys or young men, save in great measure the expense of European +servants. There are few residents on the Murray, who do not employ one or +more of these people, and at many stations, I have known the sheep or +cattle, partially, and in some instances, wholly attended to by them. + +For three years I was resident at Moorunde, and during the whole of that +time, up to November, 1844, not a single case of serious aggression, +either on the persons or property of Europeans had ever occurred, and but +very few offences even of a minor character. The only crime of any +importance that was committed in my neighbourhood, was at a sheep +station, about 25 miles to the westward, where somefew sheep were stolen, +by a tribe of natives during the absence or neglect of the men attending +them. By a want of proper care and precaution, temptation was thrown in +the way of the natives, but even then, it was only some few of the young +men who were guilty of the offence; none of the elder or more influential +members of the tribe, having had any thing to do with it. Neither did the +tribe belong to the Murray river, although they occasionally came down +there upon visits. There was no evidence to prove that the natives had +stolen the sheep at all; the only fact which could be borne witness to, +was that so many sheep were missing, and it was supposed the natives had +taken them. As soon as I was made acquainted with the circumstances, I +made every inquiry among the tribe suspected, and it was at once admitted +by the elder men that the youths had been guilty of the offence. At my +earnest solicitations, and representations of the policy of so doing, the +culprits, five in number, WERE BROUGHT IN AND DELIVERED UP BY THEIR +TRIBE. No evidence could be procured against them, and after remanding +them from time to time as a punishment, I was obliged to discharge them. + +I may now remark, that upon inquiry into the case, and in examining +witnesses against the natives, it came out in evidence, that at the same +station, and not long before, a native HAD BEEN FIRED AT, (with what +effect did not appear,) simply because he SEEMED to be going towards the +sheep-folds, which were a long way from the hut, and were directly in the +line of route of any one either passing towards Adelaide, or to any of +the more northern stations. Another case occurred about the same time, +and at the same station, where an intelligent and well-conducted native, +belonging to Moorunde, was sent by a gentleman at the Murray to a +surgeon, living about sixty miles off, with a letter, and for medicines. +The native upon reaching this station, which he had to pass, was +ASSAULTED AND OPPOSED BY A MAN, ARMED WITH A MUSKET, and if not fired at, +(which he said he was,) was at least intimidated, and driven back, and +PREVENTED FROM GOING FOR THE MEDICINES FOR THE INDIVIDUAL WHO WAS ILL. I +myself knew the native who was sent, to be one of the most orderly and +well-conducted men we had at the Murray; in fact he had frequently, at +different times, been living with me as an attache to the police force. + +In the second place, I may state, that during the time I have held office +at Moorunde, I have frequently visited on the most friendly terms, and +almost alone, the most distant and hostile tribes, where so short a time +before even large and well-armed bodies of Europeans could not pass +uninterrupted or in safety. Many of those very natives, who had been +concerned in affrays or aggressions, have since travelled hundreds of +miles and encountered hunger and thirst and fatigue, to visit a white +man's station in peace, and on friendly terms. + +Thirdly, I may observe, that ever since I went to the Murray, instead of +shewing signs of enmity or hostility, the natives have acted in the most +kind and considerate manner, and have upon all occasions, when I have +been travelling in less known and more remote districts, willingly +accompanied me as guides and interpreters, introducing me from one tribe +to another, and explaining the amicable relations I wished to establish. +In one case, a native, whom I met by himself, accompanied me at once, +without even saying good-bye to his wife and family, who were a mile or +two away, and whom, as he was going to a distance of one hundred and +fifty miles and back, he was not likely to see for a great length of +time. He was quite content to send a message by the first native he met, +to say where he was going. In my intercourse with the Aborigines I have +always noticed that they would willingly do any thing for a person whom +they were attached to. I have found that an influence, amounting almost +to authority, is produced by a system of kindness; and that in cases +where their own feelings and wishes were in opposition to the particular +object for which this influence might be exercised, that the latter would +almost invariably prevail. Thus, upon one occasion in Adelaide, where a +very large body of the Murray natives were collected to fight those from +Encounter Bay, I was directed by the Government to use my influence to +prevent the affray. Upon going to their encampment late at night, I +explained the object of my visit to them, and requested them to leave +town in the morning, and return to their own district, (90 miles away.) +In the morning I again went to the native camp, and found them all ready, +and an hour afterwards there was not one in Adelaide. Another strong +instance of the power that may be acquired over the natives occurred at +Moorunde, in 1844:--Several tribes were assembled in the neighbourhood, +and were, as I was told, going to fight. I walked down towards their huts +to see if this was the case, but upon arriving at the native camps I +found them deserted, and all the natives about a quarter of a mile away, +on the opposite side of a broad deep sheet of water caused by the floods. +As I reached the edge of the water I saw the opposing parties closing, +and heard the cry of battle as the affray commenced; raising my voice to +the utmost, I called out to them, and was heard, even above the din of +combat. In a moment all was as still as the grave, a canoe was brought +for me to cross, and I found the assembled tribes fully painted and +armed, and anxiously waiting to know what I was going to do. It was by +this time nearly dark, and although I had no fears of their renewing the +fight again for the night, I knew they would do so early in the morning; +I accordingly directed them to separate, and remove their encampments. +One party I sent up the river, a second down it, a third remained where +they were, and two others I made recross the water, and go up to encamp +near my own residence. All this was accomplished solely by the influence +I had acquired over them, for I was alone and unarmed among 300 natives, +whose angry passions were inflamed, and who were bent upon shedding each +others' blood. + +By the assistance of the natives, I was enabled in December 1843, to +ascend the Darling river as far as Laidley's Ponds (above 300 miles from +Moorunde) when accompanied only by two other Europeans, and should have +probably been enabled to reach Mount Lyell (100 miles further) but that a +severe attack of illness compelled me to return. My journey up the +Darling had, however, this good effect, that it opened a friendly +communication with natives who had never before come in contact with the +white man, except in enmity or in contest, and paved the way for a +passage upon friendly terms of any expedition that might be sent by that +route to explore the continent. Little did I anticipate at the time, how +soon such an expedition was to be undertaken, and how strongly and how +successfully the good results I so confidently hoped for were to be fully +tested. + +In August 1844, Captain Sturt passed up the Murray to explore the country +north-west of the Darling, and whilst at Moorunde, on his route, was +supplied with a Moorunde boy to accompany his party to track stock, and +also with a native of the Rufus named And-buck, to go as guide and +interpreter to the Darling. The latter native had accompanied me to +Laidley's Ponds in December 1843, and had come down to Moorunde, +according to a promise he then made me, to visit me in the winter, and go +again with me up the Darling, if I wished it. At Laidley's Ponds I found +the natives very friendly and well conducted, and one of them, a young +man named Topar, was of such an open intelligent disposition that +although my own acquaintance with him was of very short duration, I did +not hesitate to recommend him strongly to my friend Captain Sturt, as +likely to be a willing and useful assistant. The following report from +Captain Sturt, dated from Laidley's Ponds, will best shew how far I was +justified in expecting that a friendly intercourse might be maintained +even with the Darling natives, and to what distance the influence of the +Government station at Moorunde had extended, upon the conciliatory system +that had been adopted, limited though it was by an inadequacy of funds to +provide for such a more extended and liberal treatment of the Aborigines +as I should wish to have adopted. + + +"Sir,--Feeling assured that the Governor would be anxious to hear from me +as soon as possible after the receipt of my letters from Lake Victoria, I +should have taken the earliest opportunity of forwarding despatches to +his Excellency after I had ascertained whether the reports I had heard of +the massacre of a party of overlanders at the lagoons on the Darling was +founded in fact or not; but having been obliged to cross over from the +ana-branch of the Darling to that river itself for water,--and its +unlooked-for course having taken me greatly to the eastward, I had no +opportunity by which to send to Moorunde, although I was most anxious to +allay any apprehensions my former letter might have raised as to the +safety of my party. I tried to induce several natives to be the bearers +of my despatches, but they seemed unwilling to undertake so long a +journey; the arrival, therefore, of a messenger from Moorunde was a most +welcome occurrence, as he proposes returning to that place immediately, +and will be the bearer of this communication to you. + +"In continuing, for his Excellency's information, the detail of the +proceedings of the expedition under my orders since I last addressed you, +I have the honour to state that I had advanced a considerable way up the +Darling before I ascertained satisfactorily the true grounds of the +report I had heard at Lake Victoria, and was enabled to dismiss all +further anxiety on the subject from my mind. + +"It referred to the affray which took place on the Darling, opposite to +Laidley's Ponds, between Major Mitchell and the natives; and I conclude +that the circumstance of our being about to proceed to the same place, +recalled a transaction which had occurred eight years ago to their minds; +for we can trace a connection between the story we heard at the Lake, and +what we have heard upon the spot; but all the circumstances were at first +told to us with such minuteness, that coupling them with the character +Major Mitchell has given of the Darling natives, and the generally +received opinion of their ferocity and daring, we could hardly refuse +giving a certain degree of credit to what we heard; more especially as it +was once or twice confirmed by natives with whom we communicated on our +way up the river. I really feared we should come into collision with +these people, despite my reluctance to proceed to extremities; but it +will be satisfactory to his Excellency, as I trust it will to Lord +Stanley, to know that we have passed up the Darling on the most friendly +terms with the native tribes, insomuch that I may venture to hope that +our intercourse with them will be productive of much good. So far from +the show of any hostility, they may have invariably approached us +unarmed, nor have we seen a weapon in the hands of a native since we +touched upon the river. THEY HAVE CONSTANTLY SLEPT AT OUR FIRES, AND +SHEWN BY THEIR MANNER THAT THEY HAD EVERY CONFIDENCE IN US, BRINGING +THEIR WIVES AND CHILDREN TO THE CAMP, NOR AT ANY TIME GIVING US THE LEAST +ANNOYANCE, BUT ALWAYS SHEWING A WILLINGNESS TO SAVE US TROUBLE, AND TO DO +WHATEVER WE DESIRED THEM TO DO. NOTHING INDEED COULD HAVE BEEN MORE +SATISFACTORY TO US THAN OUR INTERCOURSE WITH THESE POOR PEOPLE, OR MORE +AMUSING THAN THE SPIRITS AND FEELINGS TO WHICH THEY HAVE GIVEN WAY BEFORE +US, WHEN UNCONTROLLED BY FEAR. MANY INDEED HAVE CONTINUED WITH US FOR +SOME TIME, AND HAVE EVINCED SINCERE AND MARKED SORROW AT LEAVING US. I +have made it a rule to give blankets to the old and infirm, and tomahawks +and knives to the young men, and they perfectly understand the reason of +this distinction. Finding too, that they consider kangaroos as their own +property, we have almost invariably given them all the animals the dogs +have killed, and have endeavoured to convince them that we wish to be +just, and have the kindest feelings toward them. In this humane duty I +have been most cordially assisted both by Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, and I +must add, by the conduct of my men towards the natives, which reflects +very great credit upon them. WE HAVE RECEIVED VERY GREAT ASSISTANCE FROM +OUR GUIDES, WHO HAVE ALWAYS SMOOTHED THE WAY TO OUR COMMUNICATION WITH +THE DIFFERENT TRIBES; and I have earnestly to recommend Nadbuck, who has +accompanied us from Moorunde to this place, to the favour of the +Governor, and to request that he may be rewarded in such manner as his +Excellency thinks fit, from the funds of the expedition. We find that Mr. +Eyre's influence has extended to this place, and that he is considered in +the highest light by all the natives along the Darling. In their physical +condition they are inferior to the natives of the Murray in size and +strength, but we have seen many very handsome men, and, although +diminutive in stature, exceedingly well proportioned. The tribe at +Williorara, Laidley's Ponds, numbers about eighty souls; the greater +proportion women and children. One of them, Topar, accompanies us to the +hills with another native, Toonda, who has been with us since we left +Lake Victoria, and who is a native of this tribe. He is a very singular +and remarkable man, and is rather aged, but still sinewy and active; +Topar is young, and handsome, active, intelligent, and exceedingly good +natured;--with them I hope we shall be able to keep up our friendly +relations with the natives of the interior. + +"I have to request that you will thank his Excellency for the prompt +assistance he would have afforded us; but I am sure it will be as +gratifying to him as it is to us to know that it is not required. + +"As I reported to you in my letter of the 17th of September, I left Lake +Victoria on the following day, and crossing the country in a +south-easterly direction, reached the Murray after a journey of about +fifteen miles, over plains, and encamped on a peninsula formed by the +river and a lagoon, and on which there was abundance of feed. We had +observed numerous tracks of wild cattle leading from the brush across the +plains to the river, and at night our camp was surrounded by them. I +hoped, therefore, that if I sent out a party in the morning. I should +secure two or three working bullocks, and I accordingly detached Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne, with Flood, my stockman, and Mack, to run them in; +but the brush was too thick, and in galloping after a fine bull, Flood's +carbine went off, and carried away and broke three of the fingers of his +right hand. This unfortunate accident obliged me to remain stationary for +a day; but we reached the junction of the ana-branch of the Darling with +the Murray, on the 23rd, and then turned for the first time to the +northward. + +"We found the ana-branch filled by the back waters of the Murray, and ran +up it for two days, when the water in it ceased, and we were obliged to +cross over to the Darling, which we struck on an east course, about +eighteen miles above its junction with the Murray. It had scarcely any +water in its bed, and no perceptible current--but its neighbourhood was +green and grassy, and its whole aspect pleasing. On the 27th, we thought +we perceived a stronger current in the river, and observed small sticks +and grass floating on the water, and we were consequently led to believe +that there was a fresh in it; and as we had had rain, and saw that the +clouds hung on the mountains behind us, we were in hopes the supply the +river was receiving came from Laidley's Ponds. On the following morning +the waters of the Darling were half-bank high, and from an insignificant +stream it was at once converted into a broad and noble river, sweeping +everything away on its turbid waters at the rate of these or four miles +an hour. The river still continues to rise, and is fast filling the +creeks and lagoons on either side of it. The cattle enjoy the most +luxuriant feed on the banks of the river--there being abundance of grass +also in the flats, which far surpass those of the Murray both in richness +of soil, and in extent. I cannot but consider the river as a most +valuable feature of the interior: many a rich and valuable farm might be +established upon it. Its seasons appear to be particularly favourable, +for we have had gentle rains ever since we came upon it. Its periodical +flooding is also at a most favourable period of the year, and its waters +are so muddy that the deposit must be rich, and would facilitate the +growth of many of the inter-tropical productions, as cotton, indigo--the +native indigo growing to the height of three feet--maize, or flax; +whilst, if an available country is found in the interior, the Darling +must be the great channel of communication to it. The country behind the +flats is sandy and barren, but it would in many places support a certain +number of stock, and might be found to be of more value than appearances +would justify me in stating, and I would beg to be understood, in +speaking of the Darling, that I only speak of it as I have seen it. The +summer sun probably parches up the vegetation and unclothes the soil; but +such is the effect of summer heat in all similar latitudes, and that spot +should be considered the most valuable where the effect of solar heat can +be best counteracted by natural or artificial means. I had hoped, as I +have stated, that the Darling was receiving its accession of waters from +the Williorara (Laidley's Ponds); but on arriving on its banks we were +sadly disappointed to find, instead of a mountain stream, a creek only +connects the river with Cowandillah Lake; instead of supplying the +Darling with water it was robbing it, and there was scarcely a blade of +vegetation on its banks. I was, therefore, obliged to return to the +Darling, and to encamp until such time as I should determine on our next +movement. From some hills above the camp, we had a view of some ranges to +the north-west and north, and I detached Mr. Poole on the 4th to +ascertain the nature of the country between us and them, before I +ventured to remove the party; more especially as the natives told us the +interior beyond the ranges was perfectly impracticable. This morning Mr. +Poole returned, and informed me that, from the top of the ranges he +ascended, he had a view of distant ranges to the north and north-west, as +far as he could see; that from south-west to west to 13 degrees east of +north, there was water extending, amidst which there were numerous +islands; that there was a very distant high peak, which appeared to be +surrounded by water, which shewed as a dark blue line along the horizon. +The country between him and the more distant ranges appeared to be level, +and was similar in aspect to the plains we had traversed when approaching +the hills, which were covered with spear grass, a grass of which the +animals are fond, and thin green shrubs. + +"I will not venture a conjecture as to the nature of the country whose +features have been thus partially developed to us. How far these waters +may stretch, and what the character of the ranges is, it is impossible to +say, but that there is a good country at no great distance, I have every +reason to hope. Mr. Poole states that the small scolloped parroquets +passed over his head from the north-west in thousands; and he observed +many new birds. I am therefore led to hope, that, as these first are +evidently strong on the wing on their arrival here, that the lands from +which they come are not very remote from us. So soon as I shall have +verified my position in a satisfactory manner,--which a clouded sky has +hitherto prevented my doing,--we shall move to the ranges, and leaving my +drays in a safe place, shall proceed with the horse teams to a closer +examination of the country, and, if I should find an open sea to +north-west, shall embark upon it with an ample supply of provisions and +water, and coast it round. The reports of the fine interior, which we +have heard from the natives, are so contradictory, that it is impossible +to place any reliance in them; but Toonda informs us that the water Mr. +Poole has seen is fresh--but as we are not more than two hundred and +fifteen feet above the sea, and are so near Lake Torrens, I can hardly +believe that such can be the case. It is a problem, however, that will +now very soon be solved, and I most sincerely trust this decided change +in the barrenness of the land will lead us to a rich and available +country. + +"I have great pleasure in reporting to you the continued zeal and anxiety +of my officers, and the cheerful assistance they render me. I have found +Mr. Piesse of great value, from his regular and cautious issue of the +stores and provisions; and Mr. Stewart extremely useful as draftsman. +Amongst my men, I have to particularise Robert Flood, my stockman, whose +attention to the horses and cattle has mainly insured their fitness for +service and good condition; and I have every reason to feel satisfied +with the manner in which the men generally perform their duties. + +"I have to apologize for the hurried manner in which this letter is +written, and beg to subscribe myself, + +"Sir, your most obedient servant, + +"CHARLES STURT." + + +With reference to the above report, I may mention in explanation, that, +after I had accompanied the exploring party as far as the Rufus, and +returned from thence to Moorunde, a rumour was brought to Captain Sturt +by some natives from the Darling, of a massacre said to have taken place +up that river near Laidley's Ponds. From being quite unacquainted with +the language not only of the Darling natives, but also of the Rufus +interpreter or the Moorunde boy, Captain Sturt's party had been only able +to make out the story that was told to them by signs or by the aid of +such few words of English as the boy might have learnt at Moorunde. They +had naturally fallen into some error, and had imagined the natives to be +describing the recent murder of a European party coming down the Darling +with stock, instead of their narrating, as was in reality the case, an +old story of the affray with Major Mitchell some years before. As Captain +Sturt was still at the Rufus (150 miles from Moorunde) when he received +the account, as he imagined, of so sanguinary an affray, he felt anxious +to communicate the occurrence to the Colonial Government as early as +possible, and for this purpose, induced two natives to bring down +despatches to Moorunde. Upon their arrival there, the policeman was +absent in town, and I had no means of sending in the letters to the +Government, but by natives. Two undertook the task, and walked from +Moorunde to Adelaide with the letters, and brought answers back again to +the station within five days, having walked 170 miles in that period, +Moorunde being 85 miles from Adelaide. + +Again upon the Government wishing to communicate with Captain Sturt, +letters were taken by the natives up to the Rufus, delivered over to +other natives there, and by them carried onwards to Captain Sturt, +reaching that gentleman on the eleventh day after they been sent from +Moorunde, at Laidley's Ponds, a distance of 300 miles. + +By this means a regular intercourse was kept up with the exploring party, +entirely through the aid and good feeling of the natives, up to the time +I left the colony, in December, 1844, when messengers who had been sent +up with despatches were daily expected back with answers. For their very +laborious and harassing journeys, during which they must suffer both some +degree of risk in passing through so many other tribes on their line of +route, and of hunger and other privations in prosecuting them, the +messengers are but ill requited; the good feeling they displayed, or the +fatigues they went through, being recompensed only by the present of a +SMALL BLANKET AND A FEW POUNDS OF FLOUR. With these facts before us can +we say that these natives are a ferocious, irreclaimable set of savages, +and destitute of all the better attributes of humanity? yet are they +often so maligned. The very natives, who have now acted in such a +friendly manner, and rendered such important services to Europeans, are +the SAME NATIVES who were engaged in the plundering of their property, +and taking away their lives when coming over land with stock. Such is the +change which has been effected by kindness and conciliation instead of +aggression and injury; and such, I think, I may in fairness argue, would +generally be the result if SIMILAR MEANS were more frequently resorted +to. + +As yet Moorunde is the only place where the experiment has been made of +assembling the natives and giving food to them; but as far as it has been +tried, it has been proved to be eminently successful. I am aware that the +system is highly disapproved of by many of the colonists, and the general +feeling among them appears to be that nothing should be given where +nothing is received, or in other words, that a native should never have +any thing given to him until he does some work for it. I still maintain +that the native has a right to expect, and that we are IN JUSTICE BOUND +to supply him with food in any of those parts of the country that we +occupy, and to do this, too, WITHOUT demanding or requiring any other +consideration from him than we have ALREADY received when we TOOK FROM +HIM his possessions and his hunting grounds. It may be all very proper to +get him to work a little if we can--and, perhaps, that MIGHT follow in +time, but we have no right to force him to a labour he is unused to, and +WHICH HE NEVER HAD TO PERFORM IN HIS NATURAL STATE, whilst we have a +right to supply him with what he has been accustomed to, BUT OF WHICH WE +HAD DEPRIVED HIM--FOOD. + +If in our relations with the Aborigines we wish to preserve a friendly +and bloodless intercourse; if we wish to have their children at our +schools to be taught and educated; if we hope to bring the parents into a +state that will better adapt them for the reception of christianity and +civilization; or if we care about staying the rapid and lamentable +ravages which a contact with us is causing among their tribes, we must +endeavour to do so, by removing, as far as possible, all sources of +irritation, discontent, or suffering. We must adopt a system which may at +once administer to their wants, and at the same time, give to us a +controlling influence over them; such as may not only restrain them from +doing what is wrong, but may eventually lead them to do what is right--an +influence which I feel assured would be but the stronger and more lasting +from its being founded upon acts of justice and humanity. It is upon +these principles that I have based the few suggestions I am going to +offer for the improvement of our policy towards the natives. I know that +by many they will be looked upon as chimerical or impracticable, and I +fear that more will begrudge the means necessary to carry them into +effect; but unless something of the kind be done--unless some great and +radical change be effected, and some little compensation made for the +wrongs and injuries we inflict--I feel thoroughly satisfied that all we +are doing is but time and money lost, that all our efforts on behalf of +the natives are but idle words--voces et preterea nihil--that things will +still go on as they have been going on, and that ten years hence we shall +have made no more progress either in civilizing or in christianizing them +than we had done ten years ago, whilst every day and every hour is +tending to bring about their certain and total extinction. + + +SUGGESTIONS FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE ABORIGINES. + +1st. It appears that the most important point, in fact almost the only +essential one, in the first instance, is to gain such an influence or +authority over the Aborigines as may be sufficient to enable us to induce +them to adopt, or submit to any regulations that we make for their +improvement, and that to effect this, the means must be suited to their +circumtances and habits. + +2ndly. It is desirable that the means employed should have a tendency to +restrain their wandering habits, and thus gradually induce them to locate +permanently in one place. + +3rdly. It is important that the plan should be of such a nature as to +become more binding in its influence in proportion to the length of time +it is in operation. + +4thly. It should hold out strong inducements to the parents, willingly to +allow their children to go to, and remain at the schools. + +5thly. It should be such as would operate, in some degree, in weaning the +natives from towns or populous districts. + +6thly. It should offer some provision for the future career of the +children upon their leaving school, and its tendency should be of such a +character as to diminish, as far as practicable, the attractions of a +savage life. + +7thly. It is highly important that the system adopted should be such as +would add to the security and protection of the settlers, and thereby +induce their assistance and co-operation, instead, as has too often been +the case hitherto with past measures, of exciting a feeling of irritation +and dislike between the two races. + +I believe that all these objects might be accomplished, in a great +degree, by distributing food regularly to all the natives, in their +respective districts. + +[Note 111: The whole of my remarks on the Aborigines having been hurriedly +compiled, on board ship, during the voyage from Australia, it was not +until my arrival in England that I became aware that a plan somewhat +similar to this in principle, was submitted to Lord John Russell by a Mr. +J. H. Wedge, and was sent out to the colony of New South Wales, to be +reported upon by the authorities. I quote the following extract from Mr. +La Trobe's Remarks on Mr. Wedge's letter, as shewing an opinion differing +from my own (Parliamentary Papers, p. 130). "With reference to the supply +of food and clothing, it has not been hitherto deemed advisable to +furnish them indiscriminately to all natives visiting the homesteads. In +one case, that of the Western Port District, the assistant protector has +urged that this should be the case; but I have not felt myself +sufficiently convinced of the policy or expediency of such measure to +bring it under his Excellency's notice."] + +I have previously shewn, that from the injuries the natives sustain at +our hands, in a deprivation of their usual means of subsistence, and a +banishment from their homes and possessions, there is at present no +alternative for them but to remain the abject and degraded creatures they +are, begging about from house to house, or from station to station, to +procure food, insulted and despised by all, and occasionally tempted or +driven to commit crimes for which a fearful penalty is enacted, if +brought home to them. I have given instances of the extent to which the +evils resulting from the anomalous state of our relations with them are +aggravated by the kind of feeling which circumstances engender on the +part of the Colonists towards them. I have pointed out the tendency of +their own habits and customs, to prevent them from rising in the scale of +improvement, until we can acquire an influence sufficient to counteract +these practices; and I have shewn that thus situated, oppressed, +helpless, and starving, we cannot expect they should make much progress +in civilization, or pay great regard to our instructions, when they see +that we do not practice what we recommend, and that we have one law for +ourselves and another for them. The good results that have been produced +when an opposite and more liberal system has been adopted (limited as +that system was) has also been stated. It is only fair to assume, +therefore, that these beneficial effects may be expected to accrue in an +increasing ratio in proportion to our liberality and humanity. + +My own conviction is, that by adopting the system I recommend, an almost +unlimited influence might be acquired over the native population. I +believe that the supplying them with food would gradually bring about the +abandonment of their wandering habits, in proportion to the frequency of +the issue, that the longer they were thus dependent upon us for their +resources, the more binding our authority would be; that when they no +longer required their children to assist them in the chase or in war, +they would willingly allow them to remain at our schools; that by only +supplying food to natives in their own districts they would, in some +measure, be weaned from the towns; that by restraining the wandering +habits of the parents in this way, there would be fewer charms and less +temptation to the children to relapse from a comparative state of +civilization into one of barbarism again; and that, by supplying the +wants of the natives, and taking away all inducements to crime, a +security and protection would be afforded to the settlers which do not +now exist, and which, under the present system, can never be expected, +until the former have almost disappeared before their oppressors. + +Many subordinate arrangements would be necessary to bring the plan into +complete operation, and from its general character it could not, perhaps, +be carried out every where at once, but if such arrangements were made, +only in a few districts every year, much would be done towards eventually +accomplishing the ends desired. + +At Moorunde flour was only regularly issued once in the month, but that +is not often enough to attain the full advantages of the system, still +less to remedy the evils the natives are subject to, or restrain their +wandering propensities. Upon the Murray the natives are peculiarly +situated, and have greater facilities for obtaining their natural food +than in any other part of the country. They were consequently in a +position more favourable for making an experiment upon, than those of the +inland districts, where a native is often obliged to wander over many +miles of ground for his day's subsistence, and where large tribes cannot +remain long congregated at the same place. In these it would therefore be +necessary to make the issues of food much more frequently, and I would +proportion this frequency to the state of each district with regard to +the number of Europeans, and stock in it; and the facility there might be +for procuring native food. On the borders of the colony, where the +natives are less hemmed in, the issue might take place once every +fortnight, gradually increasing the number of the issues in approaching +towards Adelaide as a centre. At the latter, and in many other of the +districts where the country is thoroughly occupied by Europeans, it would +be necessary, as it would only be just, to supply the natives with food +daily, and I would extend this arrangement gradually to all the +districts, as funds could be obtained for that purpose. It is possible +that if means at the same time were afforded of teaching them industrial +pursuits, a proportion of the food required might eventually be raised by +themselves, but it would not be prudent to calculate upon any such +resources at first. + +Having now explained what I consider the first and most important +principle, to be observed in all systems devised for the amelioration of +the Aborigines, viz. that of endeavouring to adapt the means employed to +the acquisition of a strong controlling influence over them, and having +shewn how I think this might best be obtained, I may proceed to mention a +few collateral regulations, which would be very essential to the +effective working of the system proposed. + +First. It would be necessary for the sake of perspicuity to suppose the +country divided into districts, agreeing as nearly as could be +ascertained with the boundaries of the respectives tribes. In these +districts a section or two of land, well supplied with wood and water, +should be chosen for the Aborigines; such lands, if possible, to be +centrically situated with regard to the tribes intended to assemble +there, but always having reference to their favourite places of resort, +or to such as would afford the greatest facilities for procuring their +natural food. I do not apprehend that these stations need be very +numerous at first: for the whole colony of South Australia nine or ten +would probably be sufficient at present; thus stations such as I have +described, at Adelaide, Encounter Bay, The Coorong, Moorunde, the Hutt +River, Mount Bryant, Mount Remarkable, and Port Lincoln would embrace +most of the tribes of Aborigines at present in contact with the settlers; +others could be added, or these altered, as might be thought desirable or +convenient. + +Secondly. In order to carry due weight when first established, and until +the natives get well acquainted with Europeans and their customs, it +would be essential that each station should be supported by two or more +policemen. These might afterwards be reduced in number, or withdrawn, +according to the state of the district. + +[Note 112: "It is absolutely necessary, for the cause of humanity and good +order, that such force should exist; for as long as distant settlers +are left unprotected, and are compelled to take care of and avenge +themselves, so long must great barbarities necessarily be committed, +and the only way to prevent great crimes on the part of the natives, +and massacres of these poor creatures, as the punishment of such crimes, +is to check and punish their excesses in their infancy; it is only after +becoming emboldened by frequent petty successes that they have hitherto +committed those crimes, which have drawn down so fearful a vengeance upon +them."--GREY, vol ii. p. 379.] + +Under any circumstances a police is necessary in all the country +districts, nor do I think on the whole, many more policemen would be +required than there are at out-stations at present. They would only have +to be quartered at the native establishments. + +Thirdly. It would be absolutely requisite to have experienced and proper +persons in charge of each of the locations; as far as practicable, it +would undoubtedly be the most desirable to have these establishments +under missionaries. In other cases they might be confided to the +protectors of the Aborigines, and to the resident or police magistrates. +All officers having such charge should be deemed ex-officio to be +protectors, and as many should be in the commission of the peace as +possible. + +Many other necessary and salutary regulations, would naturally occur in +so comprehensive a scheme, but as these belong more to the detail of the +system, it may be desirable to allude only to a few of the most +important. + +It would be desirable to keep registers at all the stations, containing +lists of the natives frequenting them, their names, and that of the tribe +they belong to. + +Natives should not be allowed to leave their own districts, to go to +Adelaide, or other large towns, unless under passes from their respective +protectors, and if found in Adelaide without them, should be taken up by +the police and slightly punished. + +[Note 113: Natives, from a distance, are in the habit of going at certain +times of the year into Adelaide, and remaining three or four months at a +time. They are said by Europeans to plunder stations on the line of route +backwards and forwards, and to threaten, and intimidate women and +children living in isolated houses near the town. There is no doubt but +that they have sometimes driven away the natives properly belonging to +Adelaide, and have been the means, by their presence, of a great decrease +in the attendance of the children of the Adelaide tribes at the school. +The protector has more than once been obliged to make official +representations on this subject, and to request that measures might be +taken to keep them away.] + +Deaths, Births, and Marriages, should be duly registered, and a gratuity +given on every such occasion, to ensure the regulation being attended to. + +Rewards should be given, (as an occasional present, of a blanket for +instance), to such parents as allowed their children to go to and remain +at school during the year. + +Rewards should be bestowed for delivering up offenders, or for rendering +any other service to the Government. + +Light work should be offered to such as could be induced to undertake it, +and rewards, as clothing, or the like, should be paid in proportion to +the value of the work done, and BEYOND THE MERE PROVIDING THEM with food. + +Gifts might also be made to those parents, who consented to give up the +performance of any of their savage or barbarous ceremonies upon their +children. + +Young men should be encouraged to engage themselves in the service of +settlers, as shepherds or stockkeepers, and the masters should be induced +to remunerate their services more adequately than they usually do. + +The elder natives should be led as far as could be, to make articles of +native industry for sale, as baskets, mats, weapons, implements, nets, +etc., these might be sent to Adelaide and sold periodically for their +benefit. + +Such and many other similar regulations, would appear to be advantageous, +and might be adopted or altered from time to time, as it should be deemed +desirable. + +Upon the subject of schools for the native children, it appears that much +benefit would be derived from having them as far separated as possible +from other natives, and that the following, among others, would be +improvements upon the plans in present use. + +1st. That the school buildings should be of such size and arrangement, as +to admit of all the scholars being lodged as well as boarded, and of the +boys and girls having different sleeping rooms. + +2ndly. That the schools should have a sufficiency of ground properly +enclosed around them, for the play-grounds, and that no other natives +than the scholars should be admitted within those precincts, except in +the presence of the master, when relatives come to see each other; but +that on no account should any natives be permitted to encamp or sleep +within the school grounds. + +3rdly. That the children should not be allowed or encouraged to roam +about the towns, begging, or to ramble for any purpose outside their +boundaries, where they are likely to come under the influence of the +other natives. This is particularly necessary with respect to girls, +indeed the latter should never be allowed to be absent from school at +all, by themselves. + +4thly. To compensate in some degree, for what may at first appear to them +an irksome or repulsive restraint, playthings should occasionally be +provided for those children who have behaved well, and all innocent +amusement be encouraged, and as often as might be convenient, the master +should accompany his scholars out into the country for recreation, or +through the town, or such other public places, as might be objects of +interest or curiosity. + +5thly. That a stimulus to exertion, should be excited by prizes, being +given to children distinguishing themselves at certain stages of their +progress, such as a superior article of dress, a toy, or book, or +whatever might be best adapted to the age or disposition of the child. + +6thly. That parents should never be allowed to withdraw the children, +contrary to their wishes, after having once consented to allow them to +remain there. + +7thly. That children of both sexes, after having received a proper degree +of instruction, and having attained a certain age, should be bound out as +apprentices for a limited term of years, to such as were willing to +receive them, proper provision being made for their being taught some +useful occupation, and being well treated. + +8thly. Encouragement should be offered to those who have been brought up +at the schools to marry together when their apprenticeships are out, and +portions of land should be preserved for them and assistance given them +in establishing themselves in life. At first perhaps it might be +advisable to have these settlements in the form of a village and +adjoining the school grounds, so that the young people might still +receive the advantage of the advice or religious instruction of the +missionaries or such ministers as attended to this duty at the schools. + +9thly. The children should be taught exclusively in the English language +and on Sundays should always attend divine service at some place of +public worship, accompanied by their masters. + +In carrying into effect the above or any other regulations which might be +found necessary for the welfare and improvement of the children. I +believe that a sufficient degree of influence would be acquired over the +parents by the system of supplying them with food, which I have +recommended to induce a cheerful consent, but it would be only prudent to +have a legislative enactment on the subject, that by placing the +school-children under the guardianship of the protectors, they might be +protected from the influence or power of their relatives; after these had +once fully consented to their being sent to school to be educated. + +[Note 114: "The best chance of preserving the unfortunate race of New +Holland lies in the means employed for training their children: the +education given to such children should consist in a very small part of +reading and writing. Oral instruction in the fundamental truths of the +Christian religion will be given by the missionaries themselves. The +children should be taught early; the boys to dig and plough, and the +trades of shoemakers, tailors, carpenters and masons; the girls to sew and +cook and wash linen, and keep clean the rooms and furniture. The more +promising of these children might be placed, by a law to be framed for +this purpose, under the guardianship of the Governor and placed by him at +a school, or in apprenticeship, in the more settled parts of the colony. +Thus early trained, the capacity of the race for the duties and +employments of civilized life would be fairly developed."--Letter from +Lord John Russell to Sir G. Gipps; Parliamentary Report on +Aborigines, p. 74.] + +There is yet another point to be considered with respect to the +Aborigines, and upon the equitable adjustment of which hinges all our +relations with this people, whilst upon it depends entirely our power of +enforcing any laws or regulations we may make with respect to them, I +allude to the law of evidence as it at present stands with respect to +persons incompetent to give testimony upon oath. + +It is true that in South Australia an act has very recently passed the +legislative council to legalize the unsworn testimony of natives in a +court of justice, but in that act there occurs a clause which completely +neutralizes the boon it was intended to grant, and which is as follows, +"Provided that no person, whether an Aboriginal or other, SHALL BE +CONVICTED OF ANY OFFENCE by any justice or jury upon the SOLE TESTIMONY +of any such uncivilized persons." 7 and 8 Victoria, section 5. + +Here then we find that if a native were ill-treated or shot by an +European, and the whole tribe able to bear witness to the fact, no +conviction and no punishment could ensue: let us suppose that in an +attempt to maltreat the native, the European should be wounded or injured +by him, and that the European has the native brought up and tried for a +murderous attack upon him, how would it fare with the poor native? the +oath of the white man would overpower any exculpatory unsworn testimony +that the native could bring, and his conviction and punishment would be +(as they have been before) certain and severe. + +Without attempting to assign a degree of credence to the testimony of a +native beyond what it deserves, I will leave it to those who are +acquainted with Colonies, and the value of an oath among the generality +of storekeepers and shepherds, to say how far their SWORN evidence is, in +a moral point of view, more to be depended upon than the unsworn parole +of the native. I would ask too, how often it occurs that injuries upon +the Aborigines are committed by Europeans in the presence of those +competent to give a CONVICTING TESTIMONY, (unless where all, being +equally guilty, are for their own sakes mutually averse to let the truth +be known)? or how often even such aggressions take place under +circumstances which admit of circumstantial evidence being obtained to +corroborate native testimony? + +Neither is it in the giving of evidence alone, that the native stands at +a disadvantage as compared with a white man. His case, whether as +prosecutor or defendant, is tried before a jury of another nation whose +interests are opposed to his, and whose prejudices are often very strong +against him. + +I cannot illustrate the position in which he is placed, more forcibly, +than by quoting Captain Grey's remarks, vol. ii. p. 381, where he says:-- + + +"It must also be borne in mind, that the natives are not tried by a jury +of their peers, but by a jury having interests directly opposed to their +own, and who can scarcely avoid being in some degree prejudiced against +native offenders." + + +The opinion of Judge Willis upon this point may be gathered from the +following extract, from an address to a native of New South Wales, when +passing sentence of death upon him:-- + + +"The principle upon which this court has acted in the embarrassing +collisions which have too frequently arisen between the Aborigines and +the white Europeans, has been one of reciprocity and mutual protection. +On the one hand, the white man when detected (WHICH I FEAR SELDOM +HAPPENS), has been justly visited with the rigour of the law, for +aggressions on the helpless savages; and, on the other, the latter has +been accountable for outrages upon his white brethren. As between the +Aborigines themselves, the court has never interfered, for obvious +reasons. Doubtless, in applying the law of a civilized nation to the +condition of a wild savage, innumerable difficulties must occur. The +distance in the scale of humanity between the wandering, houseless man of +the woods, and the civilized European, is immeasurable! FOR PROTECTION, +AND FOR RESPONSIBILITY IN HIS RELATION TO THE WHITE MAN THE BLACK IS +REGARDED AS A BRITISH SUBJECT. In theory, this sounds just and +reasonable; but in practice, how incongruous becomes its application! As +a British subject, he is presumed to know the laws, for the infraction of +which he is held accountable, and yet he is shut out from the advantage +of its protection when brought to the test of responsibility. As a +British subject, he is entitled to be tried by his PEERS. Who are the +peers of the black man? Are those, of whose laws, customs, language, and +religion, he is wholly ignorant--nay, whose very complexion is at +variance with his own--HIS peers? He is tried in his native land by a +race new to him, and by laws of which he knows nothing. Had you, unhappy +man! had the good fortune to be born a Frenchman, or had been a native of +any other country but your own, the law of England would have allowed you +to demand a trial by half foreigners and half Englishmen. But, by your +lot being the lowest, as is assumed, in the scale of humanity, you are +inevitably placed on a footing of fearful odds, when brought into the +sacred temple of British justice. Without a jury of your own +countrymen--without the power of making adequate defence, by speech or +witness--you are to stand the pressure of every thing that can be alleged +against you, and your only chance of escape is, not the strength of your +own, but the weakness of your adversary's case. Surrounded as your trial +was with difficulties, everything, I believe, was done that could be done +to place your case in a proper light before the jury. They have come to a +conclusion satisfactory, no doubt, to their consciences. Whatever might +be the disadvantages under which you laboured, they were convinced, as I +am, that you destroyed the life of Dillon; and as there was nothing +proved to rebut the presumption, of English law, arising from the fact of +homicide being committed by you, they were constrained to find you guilty +of murder. There may have been circumstances, if they could have been +proved, which would have given a different complexion to the case from +that of the dying declaration of the deceased, communicated to the Court +through the frail memory of two witnesses, who varied in their relation +of his account of the transaction. This declaration, so taken, was to be +regarded as if taken on oath, face to face with your accuser; and, +although you had not the opportunity of being present at it, and of +cross-examining the dying man, yet by law it was receivable against you." + + +In vol. ii. p 380, Captain Grey says:-- + + +"I have been a personal witness to a case in which a native was most +undeservedly punished, from the circumstance of the natives, who were the +only persons who could speak as to certain exculpatory facts, not being +permitted to give their evidence." + + +Under the law lately passed in South Australia, the evidence of natives +would be receivable in a case of this kind, in palliation of the offence. +Although it is more than questionable how far such evidence would weigh +against the white man's oath; but for the purpose of obtaining redress +for a wrong, or of punishing the cruelty, or the atrocity of the European +[Note 115 at end of para.], no amount of native evidence would be of the +least avail. Reverse the case, and the sole unsupported testimony of a +single witness, will be quite sufficient to convict even unto death, as +has lately been the case in two instances connected with Port Lincoln, +where the natives have been tried at different times for murder, +convicted, and two of them hung, upon the testimony of one old man, who +was the only survivor left among the Europeans, but who, from the natural +state of alarm and confusion in which he must have been upon being +attacked, and from the severe wounds he received, could not have been in +an advantageous position, for observing, or remarking the identity of the +actual murderers, among natives, who, even under more favourable +circumstances are not easily recognizable upon a hasty view, and still +less so, if either they, or the observer, are in a state of excitement at +the time. Is it possible for the natives to be blind to the unequal +measure of justice, which is thus dealt out, and which will still continue +to be so as long as the law remains unchanged? + +[Note 115: Governor Hutt remarks, in addressing Lord Glenelg on this +subject:--"In furtherance of the truth of these remarks, I would request +your Lordship particularly to observe, that here is one class of Her +Majesty's subjects, who are DEBARRED A TRUE AND FAIR TRIAL BY JURY, +whose evidence is inadmissible in a court of justice, and who consequently +may be the victims of any of the most outrageous cruelty and violence, +and yet be UNABLE, FROM THE FORMS AND REQUIREMENTS OF THE LAW, to obtain +redress, and whose quarrels, ending sometimes in bloodshed and death, +it is unjust, as well as inexpedient, to interfere with. + +"A jury ought to be composed of a man's own peers. Europeans, in the case +of a native criminal, cannot either in their habits or sympathies be +regarded as such, and his countrymen are incapable of understanding or +taking upon themselves the office of juror."] + +I have no wish to give the native evidence a higher character than it +deserves, but I think that it ought not to be rendered unavailable in a +prosecution; the degree of weight or credibility to be attached to it, +might be left to the court taking cognizance of the case, but if it is +consistent and probable, I see no reason why it should not be as strong a +safeguard to the black man from injury and oppression, as the white man's +oath is to him. There are many occasions on which the testimony of +natives may be implicitly believed, and which are readily distinguishable +by those who have had much intercourse with this people--unaccustomed to +the intricacies of untruth, they know not that they must be consistent to +deceive, and it is therefore rarely difficult to tell when a native is +prevaricating. + +Among the natives themselves, the evil effects resulting from the +inability of their evidence to produce a conviction are still more +apparent and injurious. [Note 116 at end of para.] It has already been +shewn how highly important it is to prevent the elders from exercising +an arbitrary and cruel authority over the young and the weak, and how +necessary that the latter should feel themselves quite secure from +the vengeance of the former, when endeavouring to throw off the +trammels of custom and prejudice, and by embracing our habits and +pursuits, making an effort to rise in the scale of moral and physical +improvement. Whatever alteration therefore we may make in our system +for the better, or however anxious we may be for the welfare and the +improvement of the Aborigines, we may rest well assured that our +efforts are but thrown away, as long as the natives are permitted +with impunity to exercise their cruel or degrading customs upon +each other, unchecked and unpunished. We may feel equally certain that +these oppressions and barbarities can never be checked or punished but by +means of their own unsupported testimony against each other, and until +this can be legally received, and made available for that purpose, there +is no hope of any lasting or permanent good being accomplished. + +[Note 116: Upon the inability of natives to give evidence in a court of +justice, Mr. Chief Protector Robinson remarks, in a letter to His Honour, +the Superintendent of Port Phillip, dated May, 1843--"The legal +disabilities of the natives have been a serious obstacle to their civil +protection; and I feel it my duty, whilst on this subject, respectfully to +bring under notice the necessity that still exists for some suitable +system of judicature for the governance and better protection of the +aboriginal races. 'As far as personal influence went, the aboriginal +natives have been protected from acts of injustice, cruelty, and +oppression; and their wants, wishes, and grievances have been faithfully +represented to the Government of the colony,' and this, under the +circumstances, was all that could possibly be effected. There is, +however, reason to fear that the destruction of the aboriginal natives +has been accelerated from the known fact of their being incapacitated +to give evidence in our courts of law. I have frequently had to deplore, +when applied to by the Aborigines for justice in cases of aggression +committed on them by white men, or by those of their own race, my +inability to do so in consequence of their legal incapacity to give +evidence. It were unreasonable, therefore, under such circumstances, +to expect the Aborigines would respect, or repose trust and confidence +in the Protectors, or submit to the governance of a department unable +efficiently to protect or afford them justice. Nor is it surprising they +should complain of being made to suffer the higher penalties of our law, +when deprived (by legal disability) of its benefits. Little difficulty +has been experienced in discovering the perpetrator where the blacks +have been concerned, even in the greater offences, and hence the ends +of justice would have been greatly facilitated by aboriginal evidence. +It is much to be regretted the Colonial Act of Council on aboriginal +evidence was disallowed."] + +The following very forcible and just remarks are from Captain Grey's +work, vol. ii. pages 375 to 378:-- + + +"I would submit, therefore, that it is necessary from the moment the +Aborigines of this country are declared British subjects, they should, as +far as possible, be taught that the British laws are to supersede their +own, so that any native who is suffering under their own customs, may +have the power of an appeal to those of Great Britain; or to put this in +its true light, that all authorized persons should, in all instances, be +required to protect a native from the violence of his fellows, even +though they be in the execution of their own laws. + +"So long as this is not the case, the older natives have at their +disposal the means of effectually preventing the civilization of any +individuals of their own tribe, and those among them who may be inclined +to adapt themselves to the European habits and mode of life, will be +deterred from so doing by their fear of the consequences, that the +displeasure of others may draw down upon them. + +"So much importance am I disposed to attach to this point, that I do not +hesitate to assert my full conviction, that whilst those tribes which are +in communication with Europeans are allowed to execute their barbarous +laws and customs upon one another, so long will they remain hopelessly +immersed in their present state of barbarism: and however unjust such a +proceeding might at first sight appear, I believe that the course pointed +out by true humanity would be, to make them from the very commencement +amenable to the British laws, both as regards themselves and Europeans; +for I hold it to be imagining a contradiction to suppose, that +individuals subject to savage and barbarous laws, can rise into a state +of civilization, which those laws have a manifest tendency to destroy and +overturn. + +"I have known many instances of natives who have been almost or quite +civilized, being compelled by other natives to return to the bush; more +particularly girls, who have been betrothed in their infancy, and who, on +approaching the years of puberty, have been compelled by their husbands +to join them. + +"To punish the Aborigines severely for the violation of laws of which +they are ignorant, would be manifestly cruel and unjust; but to punish +them in the first instance slightly for the violation of these laws would +inflict no great injury on them, whilst by always punishing them when +guilty of a crime, without reference to the length of period that had +elapsed between its perpetration and their apprehension, at the same time +fully explaining to them the measure of punishment that would await them +in the event of a second commission of the same fault, would teach them +gradually the laws to which they were henceforth to be amenable, and +would shew them that crime was always eventually, although it might be +remotely, followed by punishment. + +"I imagine that this course would be more merciful than that at present +adopted; viz. to punish them for a violation of a law they are ignorant +of, when this violation affects a European, and yet to allow them to +commit this crime as often as they like, when it only regards themselves; +for this latter course teaches them, not that certain actions, such, for +instance, as murder, etc. are generally criminal, but only that they are +criminal when exercised towards the white people, and the impression, +consequently excited in their minds is, that these acts only excite our +detestation when exercised towards ourselves, and that their criminality +consists, not in having committed a certain odious action, but in having +violated our prejudices." + + +Many instances have come under my own personal observation, where natives +have sought redress both against one another and against Europeans, but +where from their evidence being unavailable no redress could be afforded +them. Enough has however been now adduced to shew the very serious evils +resulting from this disadvantage, and to point out the justice, the +policy, the practicability, and the necessity of remedying it. + +In bringing to a close my remarks on the Aborigines, their present +condition and future prospects, I cannot more appropriately or more +forcibly conclude the subject than by quoting that admirable letter of +Lord Stanley's to Governor Sir G. Gipps, written in December, 1842; a +letter of which the sentiments expressed are as creditable to the +judgment and discrimination, as they are honourable to the feelings and +humanity of the minister who wrote it, and who, in the absence of +personal experience, and amidst all the conflicting testimony or +misrepresentation by which a person at a distance is ever apt to be +assailed and misled, has still been able to separate the truth from +falsehood, and to arrive at a rational, a christian, and a just opinion, +on a subject so fraught with difficulties, so involved in uncertainty, +and so beset with discrepancies. + +In writing to Sir G. Gipps, Lord Stanley says (Parliamentary Reports, pp. +221, 2, 3):-- + + +"DOWNING-STREET, 20TH DECEMBER, 1842. +"SIR, + +"I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your despatches of the +dates and numbers mentioned in the margin, reporting the information +which has reached you in respect to the aboriginal tribes of New South +Wales, and the result of the attempts which have been made, under the +sanction of Her Majesty's Government, to civilize and protect these +people. + +"I have read with great attention, but with deep regret, the accounts +contained in these despatches. After making every fair allowance for the +peculiar difficulty of such an undertaking, it seems impossible any +longer to deny that the efforts which have hitherto been made for the +civilization of the Aborigines have been unavailing; that no real +progress has yet been effected, and that there is no reasonable ground to +expect from them greater suceess in future. You will be sensible with how +much pain and reluctance I have come to this opinion, but I cannot shut +my eyes to the conclusion which inevitably follows from the statements +which you have submitted to me on the subject. + +"Your despatch of the 11th March last, No. 50, contains an account of the +several missions up to that date, with reports likewise from the chief +Protector and his assistants, and from the Crown Land Commissioners. The +statements respecting the missions, furnished not by their opponents, nor +even by indifferent parties, but by the missionaries themselves, are, I +am sorry to say, as discouraging as it is possible to be. In respect to +the mission at Wellington Valley, Mr. Gunther writes in a tone of +despondency, which shews that he has abandoned the hope of success. The +opening of his report is indeed a plain admission of despair; I sincerely +wish that his facts did not bear out such a feeling. But when he reports, +that after a trial of ten years, only one of all who have been attached +to the mission 'affords some satisfaction and encouragement;' that of the +others only four still remain with them, and that these continually +absent themselves, and when at home evince but little desire for +instruction; that 'their thoughtlessness, and spirit of independence, +ingratitude, and want of sincere, straightforward dealing, often try us +in the extreme;' that drunkenness is increasing, and that the natives are +'gradually swept away by debauchery and other evils arising from their +intermixture with Europeans,' I acknowledge that he has stated enough to +warrant his despondency, and to shew that it proceeds from no momentary +disappointment alone, but from a settled and reasonable conviction. + +"Nor do the other missions hold out any greater encouragement. That at +Moreton Bay is admitted by Mr. Handt to have made but little progress, as +neither children nor adults can be persuaded to stay for any length of +time; while that at Lake Macquarie had, at the date of your despatch, +ceased to exist, from the extinction or removal of the natives formerly +in its vicinity. The Wesleyan Missionaries at Port Phillip, +notwithstanding an expenditure in 1841 of nearly 1,300 pounds, acknowledge +that they are 'far from being satisfied with the degree of success which +has attended our labours,' and 'that a feeling of despair sometimes takes +possession of our minds, and weighs down our spirits,' arising from the +frightful mortality among the natives. + +"In the face of such representations, which can be attributed neither to +prejudice nor misinformation, I have great doubts as to the wisdom or +propriety of continuing the missions any longer. I fear that to do so +would be to delude ourselves with the mere idea of doing something; which +would be injurious to the natives, as interfering with other and more +advantageous arrangements, and unjust to the colony, as continuing an +unnecessary and profitless expenditure. + +"To this conclusion I had been led by your despatch, No. 50, but +anticipating that the protectorate system would promise more beneficial +results, I postponed my instructions in the matter until I should receive +some further information. + +"Your despatches of the 16th and 20th May have furnished that further +information, although they contradict the hopes which I had been led to +entertain. After the distinct and unequivocal opinion announced by Mr. La +Trobe, supported as it is by the expression of your concurrence, I cannot +conceal from myself that the failure of the system of protectors has been +at least as complete as that of the missions. + +"I have no doubt that a portion of this ill success, perhaps a large +portion, is attributable to the want of sound judgment and zealous +activity on the part of the assistant protectors. Thus the practice of +collecting large bodies of the natives in one spot, and in the immediate +vicinity of the settlers, without any previous provision for their +subsistence or employment, was a proceeding of singular indiscretion. +That these people would commit depredations rather than suffer want, and +that thus ill-blood, and probably collisions, would be caused between +them and the settlers, must, I should have thought, have occurred to any +man of common observation; and no one could have better reason than Mr. +Sievewright to know his utter inability to control them. When such a +course could be adopted, I am not surprised at your opinion that the +measures of the protectors have tended 'rather to increase than allay the +irritation which has long existed between the two races.' + +"But after allowing for the effect of such errors, and for the +possibility of preventing their recurrence, there is yet enough in Mr. La +Trobe's reports to shew that the system itself is defective, at least in +the hands of those whose services we are able to command. I am unwilling, +at this distance from the scene, and without that minute local knowledge +which is essential, to give you any precise instructions as to the course +which under present circumstances should be pursued: but I have the less +hesitation in leaving the matter in your hands, because your whole +correspondence shews that no one feels more strongly than yourself the +duty as well as the policy of protecting, and, if possible, civilizing +these Aborigines, and of promoting a good understanding between them and +the white settlers. At present, though I am far from attributing to the +white settlers generally an ill disposition towards the natives, there is +an apparent want of feeling among them, where the natives are concerned, +which is much to be lamented. Outrages of the most atrocious description, +involving sometimes considerable loss of life, are spoken of, as I +observe in these papers, with an indifference and lightness which to +those at a distance is very shocking. I cannot but fear that the feeling +which dictates this mode of speaking, may also cause the difficulty in +discovering and bringing to justice the perpetrators of the outrages +which from time to time occur. With a view to the protection of the +natives, the most essential step is to correct the temper and tone +adopted towards them by the settlers. Whatever may depend on your own +personal influence, or on the zealous co-operation of Mr. La Trobe, will +I am sure be done at once, and I will not doubt that your efforts in this +respect will be successful. In regard to the missions and the protectors, +I give you no definite instructions. If at your receipt of this despatch +you should see no greater prospect of advantage than has hitherto +appeared, you will be at liberty to discontinue the grants to either as +early as possible; but if circumstances should promise more success for +the future, the grants may be continued for such time as may be necessary +to bring the matter to a certain result. In the meantime, agreeing as I +do, in the general opinion, that it is indispensable to the protection of +the natives that their evidence should, to a certain extent at least, be +received in the courts of law, I shall take into my consideration the +means by which this can be effected in the safest and most satisfactory +manner. + +"I cannot conclude this despatch without expressing my sense of the +importance of the subject of it, and my hope that your experience may +enable you to suggest some general plan by which we may acquit ourselves +of the obligations which we owe towards this helpless race of beings. I +should not, without the most extreme reluctance, admit that nothing can +be done; that with respect to them alone the doctrines of Christianity +must be inoperative, and the advantages of civilization incommunicable. I +cannot acquiesce in the theory that they are incapable of improvement, +and that their extinction before the advance of the white settler is a +necessity which it is impossible to control. I recommend them to your +protection and favourable consideration with the greatest earnestness, +but at the same time with perfect confidence: and I assure you that I +shall be willing and anxious to co-operate with you in any arrangement +for their civilization which may hold out a fair prospect of success. + +"I have, etc. +"(signed) +"STANLEY." + +* * * * * + +EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES OF NATIVE ORNAMENTS, WEAPONS, IMPLEMENTS, +AND WORKS OF INDUSTRY. + + +PLATE I.--ORNAMENTS. + +1. Ku-ru-un-ko--tuft of emu feathers used in the play spoken of, page +228. +2. Three tufts of feathers tied in a bunch, with two kangaroo teeth, worn +tied to the hair. +3. Tufts of feathers, used as a flag or signal, elevated on a spear; +similar ones are worn by the males, of eagle or emu feathers over the +pubes. +4. Let-ter-rer--kangaroo teeth worn tied to the hair of young males and +females after the ceremonies of initiation. +5 and 6. Coverings for the pubes, worn by females, one is of fur string in +threads, the other of skins cut in strips. +7. Tufts of white feathers worn round the neck. +8. Tufts of feathers stained red, worn round the neck. +9. Tufts of feathers stained red, with two kangaroo teeth to each tuft, +also worn round the neck. +10. A piece of bone worn through the septum nasi. +11. Tufts of feathers worn round the neck, one is black, the other +stained red. +12. Tufts of feathers stained red, with four kangaroo teeth in a bunch, +worn round the neck. +13. Necklace of reeds cut in short lengths. +14. Band for forehead, feathers and swan's-down. +15. Man-ga--band for forehead, a coil of string made of opossum fur. +16. Mona--net cap to confine the hair of young men of opossum fur. +17. Korno--widow's mourning cap made of carbonate of lime, moulded to the +head, weight 8 1/2lbs. +18. Dog's-tail, worn as an appendage to the beard, which is gathered +together and tied in a pigtail. + + +PLATE II.--WEAPONS. + +1. Spear barbed on both sides, of hard wood, 10 1/2 feet long, used in war +or hunting. +2. Similar to the last but only barbed on one side, used for same +purposes. +3. Kar-ku-ru--smooth spear of hard wood, 10 1/2 feet, used for +punishments, as described page 222, also for general purposes. +4. Short, smooth, hard wood spear, 7 1/2 feet long, used to spear fish in +diving. +5. Reed spear with barbed hard wood point, used for war with the throwing +stick--the way of holding it, and position of the hand are shewn. +6. Hard wood spear with grass-tree end, 8 feet long, used with the +throwing stick for general purposes. +7. Hard wood spear with single barb spliced on, 8 feet long, used from +Port Lincoln to King George's Sound for chase or war, it is launched with +the throwing stick. +8. Ki-ko--reed spear, hard wood point, 6 to 7 feet long, used with the +throwing-stick to kill birds or other game. +9. Hard wood spear, grass-tree end, barbed with flint, used with the +throwing-stick for war. +10. The head of No. 9 on a arger scale. +11. The head of No. 1 on a larger scale. +12. The head of a Lachlan spear, taken from a man who was wounded there, +the spear entered behind the shoulder in the back, and the point reached +to the front of the throat, it had to be extracted by cutting an opening +in the throat and forcing the spear-head through from behind--the man +recovered. +13. The head of No. 7 on a larger scale. + + +PLATE III.--WEAPONS. + +1. Nga-waonk, or throwing-stick, about 2 feet long, and narrow. +2. Ditto but hollowed and conical. +3. Ditto straight and flat. +4. Ditto narrow and carved. +5. Ditto broad in the centre. +6. Sorcerer's stick, with feathers and fur string round the point +7. Ditto plain. +8. The Darling Wangn, (boomerang) carved, 1 foot 10 inches. +9. The Darling war Wangn, 2 feet 1 inch. +10. Battle-axe. +11. Ditto +12. Ditto +13. Ditto +14. The lower end of the throwing-stick, shewing a flint gummed on as a +chisel. +15. The Tar-ram, or shield made out of solid wood, 2 feet 7 inches long, +1 foot broad, carved and painted. +16. A side view of ditto +17. War-club of heavy wood, rounded and tapering. +18. Port Lincoln Wirris, or stick used for throwing at game, 2 feet. +19. Murray River Bwirri, or ditto ditto +20. War club, with a heavy knob, and pointed. +21. Port Lincoln Midla, or lever, with quartz knife attached to the end. +22. Murray river war club. + + +PLATE IV.--IMPLEMENTS. + +1. Tat-tat-ko, or rod for noosing wild fowl, 16 feet long, vide p. 310. +2. Moo-ar-roo, or paddle and fish spear, 10 to 16 feet, vide p. 263. +3. Chisel pointed hard wood stick, from 3 to 4 feet long, used by the +women for digging. +4. Ngakko, or chisel pointed stick, 3 feet long, used by the men. +5. Mun--canoe of bark, vide p. 314. +6. 7, 8. Varieties of Mooyumkarr, or sacred oval pieces of wood, used at +night, by being spun round with a long string so as to produce a loud +roaring noise for the object of counteracting any evil influences, and +for other purposes. +9. 10, 11, 12. Needles, etc. from the fibulas of kangaroos, wallabies, +emus, etc. +13. Kangaroo bone, used as a knife. +14. Stone with hollow in centre for pounding roots. +15. Stone hatchet. +16. Distaff with string of hair upon it. +17. Lenko, or net hung round the neck in diving to put muscles, etc. in. +18. Kenderanko, net used in diving, vide p. 260. +19. Drinking cup made of a shell. +20. Drinking cup, being the scull of a native with the sutures closed +with wax or gum. + + +PLATE V.--WORKS OF INDUSTRY. + +1. Lukomb, or skin for carrying water, made from the skins of opossums, +wallabie, or young kangaroo; the fur is turned inside, and the legs, +tail, and neck, are tied up; they hold from 1 quart to 3 gallons. +2. Pooneed-ke--circular mat, 1 foot 9 inches in diameter, made of a kind +of grass, worn on the back by the women, with a band passed round the +lower part and tied in front, the child is then slipped in between the +mat and the back, and so carried. +3. Kal-la-ter--a truncated basket of about a foot wide at the bottom, +made also of a broad kind of grass, used for carrying anything in, and +especially for taking about the fragile eggs of the Leipoa. +4. A wallet, or man's travelling bag, made of a kangaroo skin, with the +fur outside. +5. A small kal-la-ter. +6. Pool-la-da-noo-ko, or oval basket made of broad-leaved grass, used for +carrying anything; from its flat make, it fits easily to the back. +7. An Adelaide oblong and somewhat flattish basket, made of a kind of +rush. +8. The Rok-ko, or net bag, made of a string manufactured from the rush, +it is carried by the women, and contains generally all the worldly +property of the family, such as shells and pieces of flint for +knives--bones for needles--sinews of animals for thread--fat and red +ochre for adorning the person--spare ornaments or belts--white pigment +for painting for the dance--a skin for carrying water--a stone for +pounding roots--the sacred implements of the husband carefully folded up +and concealed--a stone hatchet--and many other similar articles. The size +of the rok-ko varies according to the wealth of the family; it is +sometimes very large and weighty when filled. + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery +Into Central Australia Volume 2, by Edward John Eyre + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS 2 *** + +This file should be named xpcs210.txt or xpcs210.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, xpcs211.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, xpcs210a.txt + +Produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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