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diff --git a/old/53210-0.txt b/old/53210-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3ed4095..0000000 --- a/old/53210-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3498 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by W. Teignmouth Shore - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Canterbury - -Author: W. Teignmouth Shore - -Illustrator: W. Biscombe Gardner - -Release Date: October 4, 2016 [EBook #53210] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANTERBURY *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, MWS and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - CANTERBURY - - AGENTS - - AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK - - CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. - 27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO - - INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. - MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY - - [Illustration: THE NORTH SIDE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL - - Before the present Archbishop’s Palace was built] - - - - - CANTERBURY - - - BY W. TEIGNMOUTH SHORE - PAINTED BY W. BISCOMBE - GARDNER · PUBLISHED BY - ADAM & CHARLES BLACK - SOHO SQUARE · LONDON · W. - - [Illustration] - - _Published April 1907_ - - - TO - - E. A. B. - - FROM - - E. G. O. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - -FIRST VIEW 1 - -THE STORY OF THE CATHEDRAL 7 - -THE CATHEDRAL--INTERIOR 18 - -THE CATHEDRAL--EXTERIOR 41 - -CANTERBURY PILGRIMS 54 - -THE RELIGIOUS 66 - -OTHER SHRINES 87 - -A CANTERBURY ROUNDABOUT 104 - -ENVOI 117 - -INDEX 119 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - -1. The North Side of the Cathedral _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - -2. Christ Church Gate 4 - -3. The South Side of the Cathedral 10 - -4. The Chapel of “Our Lady” in the Undercroft 18 - -5. In the Nave of the Cathedral after Evensong 22 - -6. Edward the Black Prince’s Tomb in Trinity Chapel 32 - -7. The Warrior’s Chapel, looking Westwards 38 - -8. The West Towers and South-West Entrance to the -Cathedral 42 - -9. Ruins of the Infirmary 44 - -10. The Baptistry, Canterbury Cathedral 46 - -11. Norman Staircase, King’s School 48 - -12. The Martyrdom, Canterbury Cathedral 50 - -13. South-West Transept and St George’s Tower 56 - -14. The Greyfriars’ House 64 - -15. Doorway from the Cloisters into the Martyrdom 70 - -16. Westgate 88 - -17. The Canterbury Weavers 92 - -18. The Quadrangle, St Augustine’s College 96 - -19. St Martin’s Church 102 - -20. The Cathedral, St Martin’s Church Tower, and -Harbledown 110 - - - - - CANTERBURY - - - - -FIRST VIEW - - -As we stand upon the summit of Bell Harry Tower--more happily called the -Angel Steeple--of Canterbury Cathedral, looking down upon city and -countryside, much of the history of England lies spread beneath our -feet: the Britons were at work here before the Romans came marching with -their stolid legions; here to Ethelbert, Saxon King of Kent, St -Augustine preached the gospel of Christ; in the church below, Becket was -murdered and the Black Prince buried; to this city, to the shrine of St -Thomas, came innumerable pilgrims, one of them our first great English -poet; then the crash of the Reformation swept away shrines and pilgrims, -the mirk and romance of mediævalism vanished into the mists of history, -and the city to-day lives chiefly in the past. Away to the east and -south are the narrow seas, crossed by conquering Romans and Normans, -crossed for centuries by a constant stream of travellers from all ends -of the earth, citizens of every clime, to some of whom the sight of the -English coast was the first glimpse of home, to others the first view of -a strange land; away to the north and west are the Medway and the -Thames, Rochester and London. From no other tower, perhaps, can so wide -a bird’s-eye view of our history be obtained; Canterbury is so situated -that ever since England has been and as long as England shall be, this -city has been and will be a centre of the nation’s life. - -At first entrance to it, Canterbury does not impress with its antiquity; -there are, indeed, the ancient Cathedral, ancient gates and ancient -houses. But as the sights of the city grow familiar, as its atmosphere -enters into our souls, as its story becomes known, gradually and surely -we realise that most of what we see now is but youthful compared with -the great age of the place; and we feel that when all this of the -present day has mouldered to dust, as must all man’s works, here will be -another city, perhaps even fairer than the one we are looking on, and -that the men of those days to come will wonder and speculate as to the -likeness of us of to-day. Canterbury is ancient and beautiful; no place -for the mere tourist who fancies that in an hour or two of sight-seeing -he can learn to know and love her: she is like a beautiful woman, whose -charms never stale; like a good woman, ever showing to those who love -her some fresh enchantment. - -But it is not history--not the story of dead events--that chiefly -fascinates us in Canterbury, or, indeed, in any such city; it is the -lives of the men who made that history, who took part in those events. -Here, as we walk the streets, we think of Augustine, of Thomas, of the -Black Prince, of many another; and of many great men of -letters--Chaucer, Erasmus, Marlowe, Thackeray, Dickens, Stanley: the -first painting for us the Canterbury of his own days, the last that of -past times. To understand fully the beauty of such a place, we must -allow not only its spirit to enter into us, but we must in our mind’s -eyes people its ways with those who have walked there aforetime, with -the shadows not of the great only but of the humble, who all in their -degree helped to the making of history and of this historic city. - -It is to the Cathedral that most men, when set down here, first turn -their steps; and rightly so. We must not refuse to listen to the voices -of its stones, must not look upon them as dull, dead, dumb things; to -those who are ready to hear they will always a tale unfold--of beliefs -gone beyond recall, of the men whose untiring patience and skill raised -for us this splendid monument of the past, of saints and of sinners, of -victors and of vanquished. The least advantageous way to attempt the -attainment of any true sense of the fascination of Canterbury Cathedral -is to enter it straightway, intent on seeing rapidly all that it -contains of interest; though every stone in its fabric is of interest, -almost every charm that it possesses will be lost to those who thus -wrongly approach. Rather walk slowly round, entering the close by Christ -Church gateway, completed in 1517, sadly battered by time but unspoiled -by the hand of the destroying restorer; without stands the monument to -Christopher Marlowe, son of the city. But we pass in to the quiet trees -and the trim grass; we look up at Bell Harry Tower, the centre of the -Cathedral as the Cathedral is of the city. Walk round, not troubling to -seek out the name or the record of this portion of the building or of -that; - -[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATE - -Entrance to the precincts of Canterbury Cathedral] - -round by Becket’s Crown and the ruins of the Infirmary, by the Dark -Entry and so out into Green Court. - -The face of Nature never grows so familiar to us that we know her every -tone and expression; so is it with some of the handiworks of man--with -this Cathedral, for instance. Great changes are wrought in its aspect by -the seasons of the year, by daylight, by the lights of night, by sunrise -and by sunset; changes which every man may see; and slight yet never -insignificant changes are touched in upon the picture by every passing -cloud that casts a shadow upon the grey towers and walls, by every -snowflake that finds a lodgment on its countless graven stones; changes -which only the few who love will discern. - -In visiting the interior the usual course pursued by visitors is curious -and unsatisfactory, leaving but a confused impression upon those who -have not read the story of the building, and killing what may be called -its humanity. Of course, the traveller who desires to see as much as -possible in the shortest possible time must not complain if he sees much -and understands little; but those who have sufficient time at their -disposal will do well to make several short visits rather than one of -prolonged duration, each visit being devoted to a specific end. The two -principal points of interest are the history of the fabric, and the -martyrdom or murder of St Thomas à Becket, with its consequences. - - - - -THE STORY OF THE CATHEDRAL - - -To the eye of the expert the buildings of any ancient church or -cathedral tell their story with simplicity and directness. Even to the -eye of the inexpert in such matters, it is at once apparent that -Canterbury is a growth of long ages, the handiwork of many generations -of builders. The grey weather-beaten exterior, with its varied -architecture, is evidently not the design of any single brain, and the -dim, religious aisles and chapels echo with hints of memories of -architects and masons into whose various hands came the glory of -carrying on the work which their forefathers had begun and left for them -to continue or to complete. - -It is believed that on this same site there stood once a Roman or -British church, which was granted to Augustine by Ethelbert, and by him -consecrated and reconsecrated “in the name of the Saviour, our God and -Lord Jesus Christ, and there he established an habitation for himself, -and for all his successors”; in short, he founded the monastery of -Christ Church. To this church additions were made by Archbishop Odo -toward the end of the tenth century, concerning whom is narrated a -pretty monkish legend: “The roof of Christ Church had become rotten from -excessive age, and rested throughout upon half-shattered pieces: -wherefore he set about to reconstruct it, and being also desirous of -giving to the walls a more aspiring altitude, he directed his assembled -workmen to remove altogether the disjointed structure above, and -commanded them to supply the deficient height of the walls by raising -them. But because it was absolutely necessary that the Divine Service -should not be interrupted, and no temple could be found sufficiently -capacious to receive the multitude of the people, the archbishop prayed -to Heaven that until the work should be completed, neither rain nor wind -might be suffered to intrude within the walls of the church, so as to -prevent the performance of the service. And so it came to pass: for -during three years in which the walls of the church were being carried -upwards, the whole building remained open to the sky; yet did no rain -fall either within the church, or even within the walls of the city, -that could impede the clergy standing in the church in the performance -of their duty, or restrain the people from coming even to the beginning -of it. And truly it was a sight worth seeing, to behold the space beyond -the walls of the city drenched with water, while the walls themselves -remained perfectly dry.”[1] - -Of this Saxon building it is not likely that there are any remnants in -the present church, though it is barely possible that there are some -relics of it in the west wall of the crypt. - -When Alphege was archbishop, in the year 1011, the Danes attacked the -city, sacked it, slaughtered the citizens, the while the monks sought -refuge in the church. The archbishop went forth to utter an appeal to -the marauders, who however, turning a deaf ear to his entreaties for -mercy, seized and bound him: “Then these children of Satan piled barrels -one upon another, and set them on fire, designing thus to burn the roof. -Already the heat of the flames began to melt the lead, which ran down -inside.” Driven from their sanctuary, the wretched monks went out to -their death, only four of them escaping. Alphege was carried away to -prison and to torture, and, after seven months, was put to death at -Greenwich. Years after, the saint’s body was restored to his own church. - -Fire without the sword wrought havoc in 1067, when “the devouring flames -consumed nearly all that was there preserved most precious, whether in -ornaments of gold, of silver, or of other materials, or in sacred and -profane books.” Three years later when Lanfranc, Abbot of Caen, became -archbishop, he found himself without a cathedral, and set to with vigour -to restore the monastery and the church. In seven years he had raised a -fair, new edifice upon the site of the wrecked building. “But before -this work began, he commanded that the bodies of the saints, which were -buried in the eastern part of the church, should be removed to the -western part, where the oratory of the blessed Virgin Mary stood. -Wherefore, after a three days’ fast, the bodies of those most precious -priests of the Lord, Dunstan and Alphege were raised, and in the -presence of an innumerable multitude, conveyed to their destined place -of interment, and there decently buried. To which I, Edmer, - -[Illustration: THE SOUTH SIDE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL - -Showing South-West Transept, St Anselm’s Tower, and South-East -Transept] - -can bear witness, for I was then a boy at the school.” - -Under the high altar of the old church the relics of St Wilfrid were -found, and eventually buried to the north of the altar in the new -building. Here may be quoted another story told us by Edmer: “In our own -time, it happened to one of the elder brethren of the church, Alfroin by -name, who filled the office of sacrist, that he, on the night of the -festival of St Wilfrid, was resting in a certain lofty place in the -church, outside the choir, and before an altar, above which, at that -time, the relics of the blessed Wilfrid were deposited in a shrine. -There, as he lay between sleeping and waking, he saw the church filled -with light, and angelic persons performing the service, and beheld those -whose duty it was to read or sing, ascend the cochlea or winding-stair, -and ask a blessing before the altar and body of the blessed man, which -done, they straightway descended, returned, and resumed the usual office -of the church with all solemnity.” - -Are not these stories quaint and simple, these told us by the old monks, -with their simple faith? They dreamed dreams in those days and called -them heavenly visions. To-day we attribute all our dreams to earthly -causes. Who knows whether they or we are the wiser? - -Of Lanfranc’s work there are most likely no further remains than some -portions of the walls of the nave, of the Martyrdom and of the splendid -crypt. - -Under Anselm, Prior Ernulf continued Lanfranc’s work, by pulling down -the eastern part and rebuilding it with far greater splendour. So -magnificent was it that “nothing like it could be seen in England, -either for the brilliancy of its glass windows, the beauty of its marble -pavement, or the many coloured pictures which led the wandering eyes to -the very summit of the ceiling.” - -Ernulf was succeeded by Conrad, who completed the chancel, “the glorious -choir of Conrad.” In 1130 the beautiful church was dedicated by -Archbishop William. Never since the days of the dedication of the Temple -of Solomon, so the story runs, had so famous a dedication been heard of -in all the world. - -Yet again did fire conquer and destroy; and once again it will be best -to quote from the monkish chronicler, this time from Gervase, who was -witness of the destruction.[2] - -“In the year of grace one thousand one hundred and seventy-four, by the -just but occult judgment of God, the church of Christ at Canterbury was -consumed by fire.... Now the manner of the burning ... was as follows. -In the aforesaid year, on the nones of September, at almost the ninth -hour, and during an extraordinarily violent south wind, a fire broke out -before the gate of the church, and outside the walls of the -monastery.... From thence, while the citizens were assembling and -subduing the fire, cinders and sparks carried aloft by the high wind -were deposited upon the church, and being driven by the fury of the wind -between the joints of the lead, remained there amongst the half-rotten -planks, and shortly glowing with increasing heat, set fire to the rotten -rafters; from thence the fire was communicated to the larger beams and -their braces, no one yet perceiving or helping. For the well-painted -ceiling below, and the sheet-lead covering above, concealed between them -the fire that had arisen within.... But the beams and braces burning, -the flames rose to the slopes of the roof; and the sheets of lead -yielded to the increasing heat and began to melt. Thus the raging wind, -finding a freer entrance, increased the fury of the fire; and the -flames beginning to show themselves, a cry arose in the churchyard: -‘See! see! the church is on fire.’ - -“Then the people and the monks assemble in haste; they draw water, they -brandish their hatchets, they run up the stairs full of eagerness to -save the church, already, alas! beyond their help. But when they reach -the roof and perceive the black smoke and scorching flames that pervade -it throughout, they abandon the attempt in despair, and, thinking only -of their own safety, make all haste to descend. - -“And now that the fire had loosened the beams from the pegs that bound -them together, the half-burnt timbers fell into the choir below upon the -seats of the monks; the seats, consisting of a great mass of wood-work, -caught fire, and thus the mischief grew worse and worse. And it was -marvellous, though sad, to behold how that glorious choir itself fed and -assisted the fire that was destroying it. For the flames multiplied by -this mass of timber, and extending upwards full fifteen cubits, scorched -and burnt the walls, and more especially injured the columns of the -church. - -“And now the people ran to the ornaments of the church, and began to -tear down the pallia and the curtains, some that they might save, but -some to steal them. The reliquary chests were thrown down from the high -beam and thus broken, and the contents scattered; but the monks -collected them and carefully preserved them from the fire. Some there -were, who, inflamed with a wicked and diabolical cupidity, feared not to -appropriate to themselves the things of the church, which they had saved -from the fire. - -“In this manner the house of God, hitherto delightful as a paradise of -pleasures, was now made a despicable heap of ashes, reduced to a dreary -wilderness, and laid open to all the injuries of the weather. - -“The people were astonished that the Almighty should suffer such things, -and maddened with excess of grief and perplexity, they tore their hair -and beat the walls and pavement of the church with their heads and -hands, blaspheming the Lord and His saints, the patrons of the church; -and many, both of laity and monks, would rather have laid down their -lives than that the church should have so miserably perished.” - -It was worth quoting this account almost in full both for its vividness -and vigour, and for the incidental details given of the structure; but -the account of the rebuilding must be summarised, full as it is of -picturesque and graphic touches. For some time nothing was accomplished -in the way of restoration; the roof of the choir was, of course, -entirely gone, and all the columns were in a dangerous condition. A -French architect, William of Sens, was called in to advise. He was an -active, handy man, skilful and resourceful, and the carrying out of the -work was entrusted to him. The ruins were cleared away, stone procured -from beyond the Channel, sculptors and masons assembled, and a -commencement made in September 1174. For over four years William of Sens -worked diligently, when by a terrible fall he was “rendered helpless -alike to himself and for the work, but no other person than himself was -in the least injured. Against the master only was the vengeance of God -or spite of the devil directed.” How closely in touch with God--or the -devil--were those men of old. - -William the first, rendered helpless by his injuries, after a brave -struggle returned to France, and was succeeded by William the second: -“English by nation, small in body, but in workmanship of many kinds -acute and honest.” It was not until 1184 that the new choir and some of -the adjacent buildings were completed, and it is these that we view -to-day. But some five years after the disastrous fire, the eager monks -urged on the builders, being filled with a longing to celebrate Easter -in the new choir. William the second worked manfully toward this end. On -Easter Eve fire was lit and consecrated in the cloister, then carried in -solemnity, with the singing of hymns and burning of incense, into the -church, and the Paschal candle lit therewith. - -The next great undertaking was the destruction of Lanfranc’s nave in -1378. The Norman’s work seems to have fallen into desperate disrepair. -Archbishop Sudbury appealing for public help, “issued a mandate -addressed to all ecclesiastical persons in his diocese enjoining them to -solicit subscriptions for rebuilding the nave of the church, ‘propter -ipsius notoriam et evidentem ruinam,’” and promising forty days’ -indulgence to all who subscribed. Nowadays we should hold a bazaar. The -works were not completed until 1411, under Archbishop Arundel, who -contributed a thousand marks and the five bells known as the Arundell -ryng. But it was not the archbishops in person but Prior Chillenden who -actually carried out the rebuilding, becoming Prior in 1390 and dying in -the same year that his task was completed. Practically nothing of -Lanfranc’s nave remains; it was pulled down wholesale, and the existing -nave, transepts, and portions of Bell Harry raised. - -With the building of the towers it is better to deal when we come to -walk round the exterior of the church. - -So it will be seen, and more clearly understood as we wander round the -interior, that Canterbury Cathedral sets before us the history of -English ecclesiastical architecture. From Norman down to late Decorated, -all styles are exemplified here, often most beautifully. From these -historic stones echo back not only the voices of the great -dead--warriors, kings and priests--but the noise of chisel and hammer -and axe wielded by pious hands of those who in their humble sphere lived -to the glory of God and of His Church. - - - - -THE INTERIOR - - -The best way to obtain a fair view of the beautiful proportions of the -nave and of the most striking picture of the interior of the church, is -to enter by the south-west door or porch. Here in Saxon days courts of -law were held, cases being tried which could not be referred to other -courts. Prior Chillenden about 1400 built the - -[Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF “OUR LADY” IN THE UNDERCROFT, CANTERBURY -CATHEDRAL] - -present fine porch; he was a man of energy, and to him and to those whom -he inspired to do his biddings Canterbury owes a great debt. Erasmus has -described for us the figures that used to occupy the panel above the -entrance, the effigies of Becket’s murderers, who, he says, go down to -the ages with much the same ill-name as that which pertains to Pilate, -Judas and Caiaphas. Some vague fragments of the carving still survive, -including an altar, probably that of the Martyrdom. In the vaulting of -the porch are various coats-of-arms, among them those of the Sees of -Canterbury and Chichester, and of the kingdoms of England and of France. -In accordance with an idea suggested by Dean Alford, some of the niches -here and on the west front have been filled in recent days with statues -of men of note who in one way or another have been connected with the -history of the Cathedral. - -They are solemn stones, or rather it is solemn ground this, over which -we pass, “where the saints have trod"--saints, soldiers, ecclesiastics, -Christians all in their several degrees, from dim Saxon days down to -this present moment. - -Now, we enter the nave. - -Somewhat cold, somewhat unearthly almost, is the impression made by the -forest of pillars rising through the clerestory to the vaulted roof; -stretching away to the central tower--Bell Harry--where light shines -down into the gloom. A beautiful place wherein to rest and dream dreams -of the past. All now is grey, but in bygone ages the great church blazed -with colours; paintings and rich hangings adorned the walls; there were -numberless altars with their tiny points of light, and all was enriched -and at the same time mellowed by the splendour shed upon pavement and -pillar from the “storied windows richly dight.” Who shall say whether -the change from pomp to simplicity be for better or for worse? As with -so many other matters in this opinionative world, it all depends upon -the point of view; doubtless to the stern ascetic the rule that now -obtains is for the best; upon the superstitious pilgrim of old the -glories of the past assuredly had their influence. Yet, why think of -what has gone, when that which remains is so worthy? - -The nave dates from about 1378 to 1411, in which last year the builder -of it, the aforementioned Prior Chillenden, died, “who after nobly -ruling as Prior of this church for twenty years twenty-five weeks and -five days,” says his epitaph, as given by Willis, “at length on the day -of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary closed his last day.” As it -was written of Christopher Wren, so here it might be of Chillenden--“If -monument be asked for, look around.” The architecture here is -Perpendicular, contrasting exquisitely with the early work of the choir; -it is no new simile--but there is no call to provide a new when the old -is so good--to say that these splendid pillars, rising from their firm, -fixed roots in the stony floor and springing up into the grey heights -far above, strike deep upon the imagination as being akin to the -glorious pillars of a stately forest. - -A curious and oft-repeated error is to say that Canterbury is unique -among churches, in that from the nave we look _up_ to the choir, the -latter being raised on the crypt. A precisely similar cause and effect -are to be found, for example, at Worcester. - -The stained glass which once adorned the nave, is gone, smashed by -zealous Puritans, and all of olden colour that we now see is in the -great west window, compiled of fragments from those that have departed. - -Of the tombs and monuments in the nave the most noteworthy are in the -north aisle--those of Charles the First’s famous organist, Orlando -Gibbons; of Sir John Boys, founder of the hospital for the poor near the -North Gate of the city; and the altar tomb of Archbishop Sumner. Also to -be noted, a window to the memory of Dean Stanley, sometime canon of the -Cathedral and writer of that famous work, _Historical Memorials of -Canterbury_. - -As we stand in the choir of to-day, we would indeed be of dull -imagination did we not see and drink in the poetic beauty of such a -growth as this, beautiful in its association with the centuries, with -countless thousands of worshippers; beautiful intrinsically and as a -record of faithful labour, of splendid artistry, of devout perseverance. -There are other cathedral choirs more perfect as specimens of one or -other style of architecture, but not one more hallowed by sacred and -stirring memories. Here stands Norman and Early English work side by -side, melting, as historically they did, from one into the other; the -work of French and English hands and brains. Here the mind is forcibly -carried back to the far, dim ages, when on this very ground the rude -Saxons worshipped--this ground which Augustine found already dedicated -to the worship of Christ, upon which he reared his new temple, - -[Illustration: IN THE NAVE AFTER EVENSONG, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL] - -where ever since has sounded the chanting of the monks and of -sweet-voiced choirs. - -One unusual structural feature at once strikes even the usually -unobservant; the trend inward of the walls as they reach toward the -east, accounted for by the builders having to accommodate themselves to -the two towers of St Anselm and St Andrew, left undestroyed by the great -fire which called for the rebuilding of the choir. It is not possible to -say with any degree of surety at what point the work of French William -ended and was succeeded by that of English William; and, indeed, it is -most probable that the latter worked from and completed the designs of -the former. Striking, however, is the exquisite contrast in the -combination of the French stone from Caen and the English Purbeck -marble. Glorious as was the choir of Conrad, this that succeeded to it -is far more beautiful and, of course, more ornate. The mouldings are -very varied--billet-work, dog-tooth, zigzag and so forth, Norman -intermixed with the succeeding style. Gervase states that “The old -capitals were plain, the new are most artistically sculptured. The old -arches and everything else either plain, or sculptured with an axe and -not with a chisel; but in the new work first-rate sculpture abounded -everywhere. In the old work no marble shafts, in the new innumerable -ones.” But excellent work in stone can be executed with the axe in -skilful, practised hands--easy tools do not necessarily mean fine -output; and Willis points out the interesting fact that down to his day -at any rate French masons used the axe “with great dexterity in -carving.” - -A noteworthy feature of the triforium is the curious conjuncture of an -outer round-headed arch enclosing two that are pointed, again a mingling -of the Norman and Early English styles. To quote Willis yet again, this -“may have arisen either from the indifference of the artist as to the -mixture of forms, or else from deliberate contrivance; for as he was -compelled, from the nature of his work, to retain round-headed arcades, -windows, and arches in the side-aisles, and yet was accustomed to and -desirous of employing pointed arches in his new building, he might -discreetly mix some round-headed arches with them, in order to make the -contrast less offensive by causing the mixture of forms to pervade the -whole composition, as if an intentional principle.” Commentators are -very fond of reading into the works of dead and gone writers, in -particular into the plays and poems of Shakespeare, thoughts and -speculations and intentions entirely alien to past ages. Is it not more -than likely that architectural critics fall not seldom into the same -blunder? Probably the sheer truth concerning these old builders is that -they builded better than they knew, and that we with the light of later -and present days attribute to design what was the result of -inadvertence. But why analyse and speculate? Let us be thankful for what -we have received; if it be justifiable to say grace before books, how -much more so to return thanks for these pictures drawn in stone. - -Around the choir stands the screen of Prior Henry de Estria, dating from -about 1305, at least partly his handiwork; and noteworthy is the Norman -doorway. - -The altar stands high, situated as it is above the later and loftier -portion of the crypt. Rich indeed it must have been in pre-Reformation -days, glowing with its costly and precious vessels; in a grated vault -beneath it, the treasury of gold and silver, which would have made -Crœsus and Midas feel poor, so says Erasmus. Most of this splendour -was swept up by the greedy hands of Henry VIII., the “professional -widower” and equally professional thief, and what of beauty this sinner -left undespoiled was destroyed by Puritan saints. The present altar is -rich, but not religiously impressive. - -The vast difference between the Christianity of mediæval times and of -the days that followed the Reformation cannot be more forcibly -emphasised than by recalling that this choir, now the centre of a simple -ritual, was then one of the most famous homes of relic worship. To the -new choir when ready to receive them were restored--they had stood in -its predecessor--the remains of St Dunstan and of St Alphege, “the -co-exiles of the monks.” Says Gervase: “Prior Alan, taking with him nine -of the brethren of the Church in whom he could trust, went by night to -the tombs of the saints, so that he might not be incommoded by a crowd, -and having locked the doors of the church, he commanded the stone-work -that enclosed them to be taken down. The monks and servants of the -Church, in obedience to the Prior’s commands, took the structure to -pieces, opened the stone coffins of the saints, and bore their relics to -the _vestiarium_. Then, having removed the cloths in which they had been -wrapped, and which were half-consumed from age and rottenness, they -covered them with other and more handsome palls, and bound them with -linen bands. They bore the saints, thus prepared, to their altars, and -deposited them in wooden chests, covered within and without with lead; -which chests, thus lead-covered, and strongly bound with iron, were -enclosed in stone-work that was consolidated with melted lead.” There is -eloquent evidence of the morality of the times in that “in whom he could -trust”; thefts of relics were common enough, and monks earned high -recompense for showing themselves successful “cracksmen.” - -Indeed, the bones of the saints were often the cause of bad blood -between communities of Christians, who preached to others peace and -goodwill among men. These very relics of St Dunstan are a case very much -to the point. The monks of Glastonbury denied that Canterbury possessed -them at all, saying that they had been conveyed thence to Glastonbury -when the Danes had sacked the metropolitan church. In 1508 Archbishop -Warham, little foreseeing the near approach of these days when saints’ -relics would not any longer be a valuable property, answered this claim -by opening the shrine, wherein lay fragments of a human body, and on the -heart a leaden plate bearing the words SANCTUS DUNSTANUS. The Abbot of -Glastonbury, however, refused to be convinced or to be comforted, at -last pitiably confessing that “the people had believed in the -genuineness of their saint for so long” that he was afraid to speak the -truth to them! When the tomb was laid open, the skull of the saint was -removed from it, set in a silver reliquary, and added to the other -relics that were displayed to wondering though not always credulous -pilgrims. Among these other relics may be named the right arm of Jesus -Christ, some of the clay from which Adam was created and portions of -Aaron’s rod. Wonderful are the abuses of credulity. - -Of the shrine or altar of St Dunstan, destroyed at the Reformation, on -the south of the great altar, some Decorated diaper work is all the -remnant; of that of St Alphege, which probably stood opposite, there -remains not a trace. - -There are many tombs here which may well give us pause, for in them lie -buried many of the great ecclesiastical rulers of days gone by. Hard by -where stood the altar of St Dunstan, sleeps Simon of Sudbury, archbishop -from 1375 to 1381. He was one of those enlightened few who protested -against the evil resulting from the promiscuous concourse of pilgrims -that resorted to the shrine of St Thomas. Let Dean Stanley tell us the -story: “In the year of the fourth jubilee, 1370, the pilgrims were -crowding as usual along the great London road to Canterbury, when they -were overtaken by Simon of Sudbury, at that time Bishop of London, but -afterwards Primate, and well known for his munificent donations to the -walls and towers of the town of Canterbury. He was a bold and vigorous -prelate; his spirit was stirred within him at the sight of what he -deemed a mischievous superstition, and he openly told them that the -plenary indulgence which they hoped to gain by their visit to the holy -city would be of no avail to them. Such a doctrine from such an -authority fell like a thunderbolt in the midst of the vast multitude. -Many were struck dumb; others lifted up their voices and cursed him to -his face, with the characteristic prayer that he might meet with a -shameful death. One especially, a Kentish gentleman--by name, Thomas of -Aldon--rode straight up to him, in towering indignation, and said, ‘My -Lord Bishop, for this act of yours, stirring the people to sedition -against St Thomas, I stake the salvation of my soul that you will close -your life by a most terrible death’; to which the vast concourse -answered, ‘Amen, Amen.’ The curse, it was believed, prevailed. The _vox -populi_, so the chronicler expressly asserts, turned out to be the _vox -Dei_. ‘From the beginning of the world it never has been heard that any -one ever injured the Cathedral of Canterbury, and was not punished by -the Lord.’ Eleven years from that time, the populace of London not -unnaturally imagined that the rights of St Thomas were avenged, when -they saw the unfortunate Primate dragged out of the Tower, and beheaded -by the Kentish rebels under Wat Tyler. His head was taken to his native -place, Sudbury, where it is still preserved. His body was buried in the -tomb, still to be seen on the south side of the choir of the Cathedral, -where not many years ago, when it was accidentally opened, the body was -seen within, wrapped in cerecloth, the vacant space of the head occupied -by a leaden ball.” - -Archbishop Stratford (1333-48) lies to the west of the above, a monument -sadly defaced. It was he who rendered weighty service to Edward III., -when the monarch looked upon him with unfavourable eye, considering that -it was his advice that had caused his, the King’s, troubles. The -archbishop fled from London, seeking refuge at Canterbury. He preached a -pathetic sermon to the multitudinous congregation that had flocked into -the Cathedral, concluding by excommunicating the King’s evil advisers. -When the last words were spoken, the torches that struggled with the -gloom were put out; the bell was tolled; the people scattered in -confusion. So great was the power and awe of holy church in those days -that this proceeding of the archbishop’s proved powerfully effective and -the King’s hand was stayed. - -Then there is the tomb of Cardinal Kemp, archbishop from 1452-54, with a -curious wooden canopy. He was at Agincourt with Henry V. - -On the north side, noticeable is the monument to Archbishop Chichele, -founder of the colleges of St John and of All Souls, Oxford, by the -fellows of which latter college his tomb is kept in repair. The effigy -of the living man is gruesomely put in conjunction with a grisly -skeleton in a winding sheet; to the mediæval mind death was almost -disgustingly horrible. It was he who aided and abetted Henry V. in his -preposterous claim upon the throne of France, which prosaic plea has -been turned into poetry by Shakespeare in Scene 2 Act I. of _The Life of -King Henry the Fifth_. - -Then of much more recent date, William Howley (1828-48), who so bitterly -opposed the Roman Catholic Relief Bill and the Reform Bill, which -brought him disfavour with the good citizens of Canterbury. He crowned -Queen Victoria, and performed the marriage ceremony of the Prince -Consort. - -Archbishop Bourchier (1454-86) also lies here; who was visited by the -Maronite Patriarch of Antioch, Peter II., with his camels and his -dromedaries, and who left to the church “one image of the Holy Trinity -of pure gold, with the diadem, and xj balassers, x saphires, and xliiij -gems called perlys.” - -Then proceeding toward the east we enter the Trinity Chapel, standing -upon the same site as the old chapel of the same name. - -But it is not our purpose here to write in detail the story of -Canterbury Cathedral; it can be found elsewhere by those who desire it; -all our aim is to tell sufficient of it and in such manner as to make -the building a living thing, not the dead mass to which it is too often -reduced by guides and guide-books. - -To the skill and genius of English William we owe the Trinity Chapel, -where stood the shrine of St Thomas of Canterbury, now but a memory, -where still stands the tomb of Edward the Black - -[Illustration: EDWARD THE BLACK PRINCE’S TOMB IN TRINITY CHAPEL, -CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL] - -Prince, who, in his will, laid it down that he should be buried in the -crypt, but here in the brighter light he lies. A splendid figure of -romance he was--a great fighter, and, as such, beloved of his race; the -boy victor of Cressy; the conqueror at Poitiers, where the French King -became his captive; in his life the glory of his country, by his -untimely death leaving it to anarchy and civil war. A great figure of a -man, a name resonant in history, yet on the whole one of the least -effective of our princes in that his work lasted not. We stand by his -tomb, looking upon his effigy which is life-like in its strength. “There -he lies: no other memorial of him exists in the world so authentic. -There he lies, as he had directed, in full armour, his head resting on -his helmet, his feet with the likeness of ‘the spurs he won’ at Cressy, -his hands joined as in that last prayer which he had offered up on his -death-bed.” That prayer which he uttered when the evil spirit, the lust -of revenge, departed from him: “I give Thee thanks, O God, for all Thy -benefits, and with all the pains of my soul I humbly beseech Thy mercy -to give me remission of those sins I have wickedly committed against -Thee; and of all mortal men whom, willingly or ignorantly, I have -offended, with all my heart I desire forgiveness.” He died on Trinity -Sunday in the forty-sixth year of his age. Above the canopy hang his -gauntlets, his helm, his velvet coat that once blazed with the arms of -England and of France, and the empty scabbard of his sword. We stand by -this tomb, and all the horror, brutalities, cruelties of those cruel -days are forgotten, and the air resounds with echoes of the trumpets of -chivalry. - -Close by lie Henry IV. and his second queen, Joan of Navarre; in 1832 -the tomb was opened, and the body of the King found in strangely perfect -preservation: “the nose elevated; the beard thick and matted, and of a -deep russet colour; and the jaws perfect, with all the teeth in them -except one fore-tooth.” Hard by is the small chapel founded by the King, -“a chauntre perpetuall with twey prestis for to sing and prey for my -soul”; but their voices are hushed. - -Here also are the monuments of Odo Coligny, brother of the famous -admiral, and of Archbishop Courtenay (1381-96); he gave munificently to -the building and its adornment; he was the judge before whom Wiclif was -arraigned, and found no pity in his heart for the reformer’s disciples. - -Fortune has spared for us three of the interesting thirteenth-century -windows in this chapel, and they well repay study. The rest were smashed -amid the ruinous havoc decreed by Henry VIII., which is described -elsewhere. The pictures are of scenes connected with the miracles -wrought by the dead saint, with representations of his first tomb in the -crypt below and of his later shrine in this very chapel. - -Becket’s Crown forms the easternmost portion of the Cathedral. The -old-time explanation that this chapel was so named as having contained -once a part shorn off from the saint’s skull by the sword of one of his -murderers, can scarcely be correct. On the north stands the tomb of -Cardinal Archbishop Pole (1556-58), who died but two-and-twenty hours -after his cousin and patron, Queen Mary; and, in the centre, the chair -of St Augustine, carved out of three pieces of Purbeck marble. By some -it has been called the chair of St Ethelbert, saying that he himself -used it as a throne, and, after his conversion, gave it to the greater -saint. Others, more cautious, hold that it dates only from the -Translation of St Thomas in 1220. Indeed, it is a question of “may-be” -and “may-not-be,” such an one as delights the hearts of militant -archæologists. - -St Andrew’s and St Anselm’s towers, both Prior Ernulf’s work, stand -opposite each other on the north and south sides of the Trinity Chapel, -and are sturdy survivors of the great fire that destroyed Conrad’s -choir. Dividing St Anselm’s tower from the aisle is the beautiful altar -tomb of Archbishop Simon de Mepham (1328-33), with ornate canopy, who, -so it is said, died of a broken heart, the Pope siding with Grandison, -Bishop of Exeter, in his quarrel with the archbishop. At the east end of -this chapel stood the altar of St Peter and St Paul, behind which St -Anselm was buried. Of the saintly figures connected with the Cathedral, -that of Anselm is one of the most fascinating; a personality purely -mediæval in its saintly piety and its sturdy, unbreakable upholding of -the rights of mother church against the encroachments of the temporal -powers. After a life of turmoil and trial, he died here in Canterbury, -and sleeps in this chapel that bears his name. Above is the watching -chamber, where nightly and night-long a monk stood keeping watch and -ward over the treasures of the shrine of St Thomas. At least this is one -account of the uses made of this chamber--but there are others. But with -whatever object it may have been, there can be small doubt that for one -purpose or another a watcher was stationed there at night; solemn his -task and his vigil, yet not without its moments of beauty, as all know -who have wandered in a vast cathedral, when the moon pours its dim, -misty light through the great windows. - -Journeying westward we come to the south choir transept, in the two -apses of which there used to stand altars to St Gregory and St John, and -here the admirable work of the piscinas and credence tables is well -worthy of examination. Here, under the south window, which is a memorial -to Dean Alford, lies Archbishop Winchelsea (1294-1313), who was regarded -by the poor as a saint on account of his profuse almsgiving. On the -north side of the building is the companion transept, where the altars -in the two apses were dedicated to St Martin and St Stephen. The white -marble altar tomb of Archbishop Tait (1861-82) stands here, erected in -1885, the effigy being the work of Sir Edgar Boehm. While Tait was -archbishop the Cathedral was yet again attacked by fire, on September 3, -1872. Bell Harry rang out the alarm; clouds of heavy smoke circled up -from the roof of the Trinity Chapel, obscuring the beautiful outlines of -the Angel Tower. An hour and a half elapsed before a supply of water -was obtained and brought to bear upon the flames. Havoc was wrought to -the roof, molten lead poured down into the edifice, but at last the fire -was conquered and the church rescued from the threatened repetition of -the disaster that had destroyed Conrad’s choir. _Te Deum_ was sung that -afternoon from full hearts. - -The two western transepts are the building of Prior Chillenden. Opening -out of the southern is the chapel of St Michael or the Warrior’s Chapel, -built by whom is uncertain, but, according to Willis, probably by -Chillenden. The tomb here of Archbishop Stephen Langton is curious: in -shape like a coffin of stone, half of it in the chapel and half under -the eastern wall. It was Cardinal Archbishop Langton who forced Magna -Charta from King John, and who divided the Bible into chapters--both -permanent works. In the centre of this chapel is the beautiful sepulchre -of Lady Margaret Holland (d. 1437) and her two husbands, John Beaufort, -Earl of Somerset (d. 1410), and Thomas, Duke of Clarence (d. 1420), the -lady thus surviving her second husband by some seventeen years. The -monument is of marble and alabaster, and the three effigies of striking -interest. - -Then through the passage beneath the steps of - -[Illustration: THE WARRIORS’ CHAPEL, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL - -Looking West] - -the choir into the transept of the Martyrdom. There remains here little, -if anything, that was seen by Becket’s eyes. Here lie buried Archbishop -Peckham (1279-92), an interesting monument, and Archbishop Warham -(1503-32). The latter was notable--among other things--for his lavish -hospitality, and for spending an immense sum upon his palace at Otford, -money which he would have lavished upon Canterbury had not the citizens -indiscreetly quarrelled with him. He was the friend of Colet and -Erasmus, of whose visit here we shall have something to say later on. To -the east of this transept is the Lady Chapel, built by Prior Goldstone, -the fan-vaulting of which is rich and beautiful. - -We may now descend into the crypt, so ending our brief survey of the -interior of the Cathedral. This crypt, which we owe to Prior Ernulf, -subsequently Bishop of Rochester, is most impressive in its massiveness, -its Norman sturdiness, the square bases of the round pillars, the -ponderous capitals; the roof, which seems as though too heavy even for -such strong supports; the narrow, round-headed windows. The carving, -executed after the capitals were put in place, is worthy of note--rough -and ready, but thoroughly characteristic. In that portion of the crypt -beneath the south transept a French service is still celebrated, an -institution which dates from about 1575, when many Protestants sought -refuge in Canterbury. They were weavers for the most part, but neither -in their works nor their speech do they now survive, though many -families of French lineage and name live here still. In the centre of -the crypt was the altar and chapel of the Virgin, once glorious with -riches, now a dismal desolation, unfrequented, a shadow of a cult no -longer here followed. Close by lies buried Cardinal Morton of the famous -“fork,” and in the beautiful screen is the tomb of Lady Mohun of -Dunster. There is something creepy, uncanny, about these tombs lying -dark beneath the mass of building above, something fateful as compared -with a grave in some quiet village churchyard. Then there is the chapel -of St Gabriel, with the tomb of the Countess of Athol of Chilham Castle -(1292), defaced of its splendours. Ernulf’s work ends where the crypt -suddenly assumes loftier proportions in the easternmost part built by -William the Englishman; here Becket was first buried, here he slept -until his remains were translated to the gorgeous shrine in the church -above. Here, too, have been found bones, including a skull with marks -of violence, which may be, which may not be, the martyr’s. Not only is -this eastern portion of the crypt loftier, but also lighter in its -architectural features: the Norman style has vanished, we have here very -early Early English, pointed arches, circular capitals, the beginning of -“sweetness and light.” - - - - -THE EXTERIOR - - -There is a passage in _The Stones of Venice_ that should be in -everyone’s mind when walking in any cathedral close: “Let us go together -up the more retired street, at the end of which we can see the pinnacles -of one of the towers, and then through the low grey gateway, with its -battlemented top and small latticed window in the centre, into the inner -private-looking road or close, where nothing goes in but the carts of -the tradesmen who supply the bishop and the chapter, and where there are -little shaven grass-plots, fenced in by neat rails, before old-fashioned -groups of somewhat diminutive and excessively trim houses, with little -oriel and bay windows jutting out here and there, and deep wooden -cornices and eaves painted cream colour and white, and small porches to -their doors in the shape of cockle-shells, or little, crooked, thick, -indescribable wooden gables warped a little on one side; and so forward -till we come to larger houses, also old-fashioned, but of red brick, and -with gardens behind them, and fruit walls, which show here and there -among the nectarines, the vestiges of an old cloister arch or shaft, and -looking in front on the Cathedral square itself, laid out in rigid -divisions of smooth grass and gravel walk, yet not uncheerful, -especially on the sunny side where the canons’ children are walking with -their nurserymaids.” Is not the atmosphere exactly caught and held? -Then, as did Ruskin, look on the Cathedral itself. Up high soars the -beautiful central tower, now known as Bell Harry, but once and better -called the Angel Steeple. Of this perfect building the beginning was in -1433, under Prior Molash, and after delays and intermissions it was -brought to completeness by Prior Goldstone, of whose handiwork it has -been written: “He vaulted it with a most beautiful vault, and with -excellent and artistic workmanship, in every part sculptured and gilt, -with ample windows glazed and ironed. He also with great care and -industry annexed to the columns which support the same tower two arches -or vaults of stone-work, curiously carved, and four smaller ones to -assist in sustaining - -[Illustration: THE WEST TOWERS AND SOUTH-WEST ENTRANCE, CANTERBURY -CATHEDRAL] - -the said tower"--a remarkable feature of the interior. The west front of -the Cathedral is flanked by two towers: the south-west known as the -Chichele or Oxford tower, basely imitated by the north-west tower--the -Arundel--which dates from 1834, when Lanfranc’s work was destroyed. - -In the close we must try to forget the present day. When we go to -Canterbury to see the Cathedral, when that is practically all in all to -us, we must endeavour to call back the past, to put back the “horologe -of time,” to remember that this fine pile was once the busy centre of a -great monastic community, of whose buildings there are many interesting -remnants, stone records crumbling away. St Augustine, who founded this -powerful monastery, was a Benedictine. The rules were severe, enjoining -silence, work, and divine worship. The monastery flourished, and when -Lanfranc was appointed archbishop by the Conqueror, its fortunes -received a great impetus from the ambitious prelate. It was not only the -church that showed the marks of his strong hand but the monastic -buildings also, which he surrounded with a great wall. He added to the -riches of the community and to the number of the monks, whom he -endeavoured to bring back to strict obedience to their rule; he -encouraged learning and literary work; he placed the governance of the -monastery in the hands of a prior instead of the archbishop, as -heretofore. The monastery, as the years went by, grew more powerful, -more rich, more proud, achieving much work of splendid usefulness, some -of no use at all. And then came Henry VIII. The buildings inside the -monastery walls were numerous--the church, the chapter-house, the -cloisters, the dormitories, the buttery, the kitchen, the dining-hall, -the infirmary, store-houses and bakeries, stables, houses of -entertainment for guests of high and low degree--a beehive of -industrious monks. What remains of it all? But little; the memory of a -greatness gone for ever--a few buildings, some ruins. These are the -picturesque ruins of the infirmary adjoining the east end of the -Cathedral, portions of its hall and of the chapel attached to its east -end, so that the sick might not be deprived of the solace of the service -of God. There is a lovely view of the Cathedral through the fine archway -that still stands. Passing westward we come to the Dark Entry, which, -turning to the right, takes us to Green Court: it is a dark, gruesome -passage, meet for the habitation of the ghost whose history has been -sung by Ingoldsby; but it is - -[Illustration: RUINS OF THE INFIRMARY, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL] - -beautiful also. Close by is the Baptistry, as the Lavatory Tower is now -miscalled, which nestles snugly against the Cathedral, whence was -distributed the supply of water to the various buildings. Green Court is -worthy a visit for its own picturesque sake, but above all because it -contains one of the most delightful specimens of Norman architecture, -the magnificent staircase leading up to the King’s School; there are -those who say that the Normans built splendidly, but not beautifully, to -whom this one work is sufficient answer. Of the chapter-house, what can -we say save that the hand of the restorer has been laid heavily upon -it?--translator-traitor we have been told; we may say with almost equal -truth, restorer-destroyer. And then we may go into the cloisters, which -next after the church was the centre of monastic life. The present -cloister is chiefly the work of Prior Chillenden, but traces of many -periods are to be found--Norman, Early English and Perpendicular. Do not -hurry here; it is a place in which to loiter, examining its many -beauties, watching the Cathedral the while; as the white clouds sail -behind the great tower, or as the storm darkens the day. The lightning -flashes, the thunder rolls and mutters, and as the mirk grows deeper -and deeper, as though night were upon us--what do we hear? The echoes -from long ago of the cries of terror-stricken men, the imperious tones -of a haughty priest, the shouts and clamour of armed men. We have -travelled back to the dark night of December 29, in the year 1170, the -night of Becket’s murder. There have been penned many accounts of this -tragedy, but we shall not do ill to follow closely that handed down to -us from the clerk Edward Grim, who stood stoutly by his master almost to -the end, stood by him till severely hurt himself.[3] - -The four murderers, Fitzurse, Moreville, Tracy, and le Bret, arriving in -Canterbury on the afternoon of this fatal Tuesday, acted in a curiously -hesitating manner, due either to nervousness or to want of any settled -plan. After an interview with Becket of which the accounts vary -considerably, the murderers retired to arm themselves. But they quickly -returned with swords and axes, only to find all entrance barred. But -they were not to be baulked, and, guided by Robert de Broc, the -custodian of - -[Illustration: THE BAPTISTRY, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL] - -the palace during Becket’s long exile, the knights forced their way in -through a window. Terror-stricken at the noise, the servants and almost -all of the clerks fled like sheep before hungry wolves. Those with the -archbishop in his chamber besought him to fly, to seek safety in the -church where vespers were being sung; but he strenuously refused, -unmoved by either arguments or prayers. Then the monks took courage to -act, and half dragging, half pushing, half carrying, forced him to fly. -But the door leading into the cloister had some days previous been -barred up; yet when one of the monks laid his hand upon the bar it -yielded to him, coming out of the socket as “though fastened by nothing -stronger than glue.” The cross was carried before by the clerk, Henry of -Auxerre; and beside Grim there were with him his faithful friend John of -Salisbury, his chaplain William Fitzstephen and a few monks. They were -now in the cloister and dragged the still unwilling man along the north -wall and so on to the chapter house. “What means this, sirs? What is -your fear?” he continued asking them, as he angrily resisted their -importunity. At last they reached the door opening into the church from -the south-east corner of the cloister. As they passed through, the -knights were heard following at full speed; and, on the other hand, the -monks who had been singing the vespers, broke off, hastening to meet -him, glorifying God because they saw him living and unharmed. So almost -in the dark they must have stood, for it was late of a winter afternoon. -The monks made to bar the door, but Becket bade them forbear, bidding -them not to make “into a tower the house of prayer.” The murderers -pushed in, with swords unsheathed, shouting, “Where is Thomas Becket, -traitor to King and realm?” Receiving no reply, they called again, -“Where is the archbishop?” Whereon he advanced to meet them from the -steps to which he had been carried by the retreating crowd of monks, and -answered, “Here I am, no traitor to the King, but a priest. What do you -seek of me?” He turned aside to the right, under a pillar, on one hand -the altar of the Virgin and on the other that of St Benedict. The -knights followed him, bidding him restore those whom he had -excommunicated, only to be met with blank refusal. They attacked him, -endeavouring to drag him outside the church; but they could not move him -from the pillar. Then one of the knights, to whom Becket spoke roughly -as he shook him off, raised - -[Illustration: NORMAN STAIRCASE, KING’S SCHOOL, CANTERBURY] - -his sword to strike, and the archbishop, bending his neck as though for -prayer, and raising his hands, prepared for the martyrdom which he seems -almost to have sought. The knight struck, shearing away the top of the -skull, and with the same blow almost cutting off the arm of Edward Grim, -who was supporting him. Another blow and another, then Becket fell on -his knees, saying in a low voice, “For the name of Jesus and for the -protection of the Church I am prepared to die.” Then Bret struck at him, -wounding him severely: struck with such violence that he not only -shivered his sword against the pavement, but also cut the crown from off -the martyr’s head so that the blood, whitening from the brain and the -brain reddening from the blood, “empurpled the face with the whiteness -as of the lily and redness as of the rose, the colours of the Church as -Virgin and Mother.” Another of the murderers placed his foot on the neck -of the prostrate man, and with his sword’s point scattered the brains -and blood about the pavement, calling out, “Let us go hence! This fellow -will not rise again any more.” As the murderers fled out into the thick -mirk of the night; as the monks cowered in terror in the black darkness -of the silent Cathedral; as the crowds surged anxiously in the narrow -streets of the city; as the dead archbishop lay there upon the -blood-stained pavement, a few trembling but faithful friends near -by,--there burst forth a tempestuous storm of rain and thunder. Then the -silence of night and of fear. By-and-by the monks plucked up courage to -approach the spot where lay the dead archbishop; turning the body they -saw that the face was peaceful, no trace of terror or of wrath, he -looked as one sleeping. After binding up the frightful wound in the -head, they carried the body through the choir and laid it on a bier -before the high altar. There in the dim light of the candles the monks -mourned the fallen man, listening to Robert of Merton, who told them -that Becket had lived a saint as he had died a martyr, showing them the -monk’s habit beneath the dead man’s garments and the hair shirt next the -skin. Then the monks broke out in praises of the man they had sometimes -misjudged, knelt, kissed the hands and feet of the corpse, crying -“_Saint_ Thomas.” - -The body was first laid to rest in the crypt, until the translation in -1220. In 1173 Becket was canonised, December 29th being the feast of St -Thomas of Canterbury. To this tomb in the crypt came Henry II. to do -penance for his own - -[Illustration: THE MARTYRDOM, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL] - -sin and his servants’, in the darkest hour of his reign. Barefoot and -fasting he came; with rods he was beaten by bishops, abbots and monks; -in the crypt he passed the hours of night; so his sin was washed away. - -The bones of the martyr brought greater prosperity to the monastery and -church than ever it had known, and as their fortunes rose, so those of -their rival St Augustine’s declined. In 1220 the martyr’s remains were -translated from the crypt to the new chapel of the Trinity which had -arisen from the ashes of the old one burnt down in 1174--moved thither -with splendid pomp and ceremony, and laid in a glorious shrine. The -feast of the Translation of St Thomas of Canterbury was commemorated for -over three hundred years, until by Henry VIII. it was suppressed. To -this shrine, glowing with gold and gems, journeyed pilgrims from every -quarter of the world; before it they knelt, and were cured of their ills -of the flesh and of the spirit; to it they made their offerings, many of -great price, such as the magnificent carbuncle, “the Regale of France,” -which, when Louis VII. was reluctant to part with it, flew from out the -ring upon the King’s finger and stuck fast to the wall of the shrine. - -Here is a description of the shrine by a Venetian who saw it about the -year 1500:--“The tomb of St Thomas the Martyr, Archbishop of Canterbury, -exceeds all belief. Notwithstanding its great size, it is wholly covered -with plates of pure gold; yet the gold is scarcely seen because it is -covered with various precious stones, as sapphires, balasses, diamonds, -rubies, and emeralds; and wherever the eye turns something more -beautiful than the rest is observed. Nor, in addition to these natural -beauties, is the skill of art wanting, for in the midst of the gold are -the most beautiful sculptured gems both small and large, as well such as -are in relief, as agates, onyxes, cornelians, and cameos; and some -cameos are of such size, that I am afraid to name it; but everything is -far surpassed by a ruby, not longer than a thumb-nail, which is fixed to -the right of the altar.[4] The church is somewhat dark, and particularly -in the spot where the shrine is placed, and when we went to see it the -sun was near setting, and the weather was cloudy; nevertheless I saw -that ruby as if I had it in my hand.” - -Hither came Richard Cœur de Lion from his Austrian prison, Henry V. -from Agincourt, and--strange irony of fate--Henry VIII. and the Emperor -Charles V. Then came the storm of the Reformation; by the King’s order -the treasures of the shrine were carried off to the royal treasury, and -the Regale adorned the thumb of the royal humbug. Of the shrine nothing -remains now, nothing but a memory. A memory, only a memory; but no one -can realise what mediævalism was, how powerful superstition was, or the -place in English and Continental history that Canterbury held for those -three hundred years, to whom this memory is not present as he stands -where once stood the shrine of St Thomas of Canterbury. We are very far -removed from those days, but if we would understand them aright, we must -here endeavour to probe the spirit which brought weary pilgrims to this -holy shrine, some of them to scoff, but the majority in faith. Nor is it -seemly to jeer at that superstition--to those whom it guided it was -light in darkness; and maybe we have some superstitions of our own -to-day, the folly of which will remain for future generations to point -out. So from this darkness of mediævalism let us pass out into the -daylight, not foolishly thinking that we have seen all or half all that -there is to see, but content if we have drunk in somewhat of the beauty -and solemnity of this great church. - - - - -CANTERBURY PILGRIMS - - -When seeking for the bright, sweet English daylight, who better could be -our guide than Geoffrey Chaucer? - -We have outlined briefly the story of the shrine, and of the resort to -it of pilgrims high and low; but in order to paint effectively and to -call up a true picture of mediæval Canterbury, let us betake ourselves -back through the centuries and set out from Southwark on an April -morning, adding our humble selves to that immortal band of Canterbury -Pilgrims, who whiled away the tedium of the journey with jest and story. -Let Chaucer limn the day for us:-- - - “Whan that Aprille with his shoures soote - The droghte of March hath perced to the roote, - And bathed every veyne in swich licour - Of which vertu engendred is the flour; - Whan Zephirus eek with his swete breeth - Inspired hath in every holt and heeth - The tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne - Hath in the Ram his halfe cours y-ronne, - And smale foweles maken melodye, - That slepen al the nyght with open eye,-- - So priketh hem Nature in hir corages,-- - Thanne longen folk to goon on pilgrimages, - And palmeres for to seeken straunge strondes, - To ferne halwes kowthe in sondry londes; - And specially, from every shires ende - Of Engelond, to Caunturbury they wende, - The hooly blisful martir for to seke, - That hem hath holpen whan that they were to seeke.” - -They formed a company of nine-and-twenty, and in fellowship we’ll go -toward Canterbury, with a right merry cheer. This is our route-- - - “Lo, Depeford, and it is half wey pryme. - Lo, Grenewych, ther many a shrewe is inne”; - -then-- - - “Lo, Rouchestre stant heer faste by!” - -and so along our pilgrims’ way through the pleasant country of Kent -until we reach - - “A litel toun, - Which that y-cleped is Bobbe-up-and-doun, - Under the Blee in Caunterbury weye”; - -maybe Harbledown, where we will loiter anon. And so to close sight of -the Angel Steeple and of the hospitable red roofs nestling round the -church, wherein stands the shrine we have set forth to see. Then down -the steep way into the city, perchance to the music of Canterbury bells. -We have arrived toward dusk, and naturally we shall at once seek out our -lodging for the night, as did Chaucer’s company-- - - “When all this fresh feleship were com to Cantirbury.”[5] - -Alack, we cannot lay our heads under the same roof as did they-- - - “They took their in and loggit them at mydmorowe, I trowe, - Atte Cheker of the Hope that many a man doth knowe.” - -There is little room for doubt but that this inn, the “Chequers of the -Hope,” occupied the west corner of the angle formed by the High Street -and Mercery Lane, hard by the old Butter Market and Christchurch Gate. -Of the original building only fragments remain, for fire was only too -busy here in the year 1865. Here was the dormitory of the Hundred Beds, -the Pantry, the Buttery, the Dining Room, and the beautiful garden with -its herbs and flowers, to all of which the writer of the “Supplementary -Tale” makes reference. In olden days Canterbury might almost have been -described - -[Illustration: SOUTH-WEST TRANSEPT AND ST GEORGE’S TOWER, CANTERBURY -CATHEDRAL] - -as a city of churches, religious houses, and hostelries and other -accommodations for pilgrims--that was the atmosphere of mediæval -Canterbury. On the opposite side of High Street to the “Chequers” was a -lodging for pilgrims erected by Prior Chillenden in the fifteenth -century, which was for long years after the Reformation an ordinary inn -for travellers. - -Pilgrims came throughout the year in companies large and small, but the -throng and press was tremendous at the festival of the Martyrdom on -December 29, and in summer for the festival of the Translation on July -7, which also was the first day of Canterbury Fair. Larger still the -crowds in the years of jubilee, 1270, 1320, 1370, 1420, 1470, and 1520, -when on each fiftieth anniversary of the Translation the feast lasted -for two weeks and indulgences were granted to all pilgrims. - -Beside the inns, there was plenty other accommodation for pilgrims of -all degrees, in the hospitals and convents, and, above all, in the -Priory of Christ Church. - -The city fathers, too, took their share in the festivals, among other -entertainments providing a pageant of the Martyrdom; and here follow a -few quaint extracts from an account of the expenditure one year upon -the same: “Paid to carpenters hewing and squaring of timber for the -pageant, 8d. For making St Thomas’s cart, with a pair of wheels, 5s. 8d. -Paid a carpenter and his fellows making of the pageant, by four days, -taking between them, by the day, finding themselves, 14d., 4s. 8d.... -For 114 feet of board, bought for flooring the same pageant, 2s. 8d.... -For nails, 7½d. For tallow for the wheels, 1d. For ale spent 1d. To four -men to help to carry the pageant, 8d.... For gunpowder, bought at -Sandwich, 3s. 4d.... For linen cloth for St Thomas’s garment, 6d. For a -dozen and a half of tin silver, 9d. For glue and pack-thread, 3d.... To -John a Kent for the hire of a sword, 4d. And for washing of an albe and -an amys, 2d.” - -Our pilgrims, who seem to have arrived fairly early in day, - - “Ordeyned their dyner wisely, or they to church went,” - -and then went along Mercery Lane, under the great gateway--as we all -still may go--and then broke upon their view a sight different in many -ways, yet in many the same as now meets the eye. Dean Stanley has -described it well for us: “The pilgrims would stream into the Precincts. -The outside aspect of the Cathedral can be imagined without much -difficulty. A wide cemetery, which, with its numerous gravestones, such -as that on the south side of Peterborough Cathedral, occupied the vacant -space still called the Churchyard, divided from the garden beyond by the -old Norman arch since removed to a more convenient spot. In the cemetery -were interred such pilgrims as died during their stay in Canterbury. The -external aspect of the Cathedral itself, with the exception of the -numerous statues which then filled its now vacant niches, must have been -much what it is now. Not so its interior. Bright colours on the roof, on -the windows, on the monuments; hangings suspended from the rods which -may still be seen running from pillar to pillar; chapels, and altars, -and chantries intercepting the view, where now all is clear, must have -rendered it so different, that at first we should hardly recognise it to -be the same building.” - -Returning to our friends:-- - - “Whan they wer al y-loggit, as skill wold and reson, - Everich aftir his degre, to chirch then was seson - To pas and to wend, to make their offringis, - Righte as their devocioune was, of silver broch and ryngis. - Then at the chirch dorr the curtesy gan to ryse, - Tyl the knyght, of gentilnes that knewe right well the guyse, - Put forth the prelatis, the parson and his fere. - A monk, that took the spryngill with a manly chere, - And did as the manere is, moilid all thir patis, - Everich after othir, righte as they wer of statis.” - -After they had been thus sprinkled with the holy water-- - - “The knyght went with his compers to the holy shryne, - To do that they wer com for, and aftir for to dyne, - The pardoner and the miller, and othir lewde sotes,” - -waiting behind, gaping at the beautiful stained glass which then filled -the windows of the nave, and wildly guessing at their subjects-- - - “‘Pese!’ quod the hoost of Southwork, ‘let stond the wyndow glassid, - Goith up and doith your offerynge, ye semith half amasid.’ - - * * * * * - - Then passid they forth boystly, goggling with their hedis, - Knelid adown tofore the shrine, and hertlich their bedis - They preyd to seint Thomas, in such wyse as the couth; - And sith the holy relikes ech man with his mowith - Kissid, as a goodly monk the names told and taught.” - -We can follow in their footsteps, presuming them to have taken the more -natural and probably more usual way, going first to the transept of the -Martyrdom, over an entrance to which was inscribed-- - - “Est sacer intra locus venerabilis atque beatus - Præsul uti Sanctus Thomas est martyrisatus.” - -Neither could the pilgrims then nor we now see practically anything of -what met the eye on the fatal day itself; nor shall we--as did -they--kneel before the wooden altar the while the guardian of it shows -to us the precious relics kept there. _But_--if we wish to understand -the spirit of the multitude in those days, we must forget ourselves for -the nonce, and become as little children of great faith. - -Then we pass on down into the crypt under the choir and Trinity Chapel, -whose darkness is broken by the light of many lamps. Here, if we are but -common folk, we shall be shown only a part of the skull of the saint, to -which we may put our lips; his shirt and hair-cloth drawers, which -formed one of his chief claims to saintliness--for dirtiness was akin to -godliness in those times. If, however, we are folk of high degree, the -glowing treasures of the chapel of Our Lady Undercroft will be opened to -us. - -Then up into the choir, where in coffers of gold and silver and ivory -there are hundreds of relics, and, as we have seen-- - - “...the holy relikes ech man with his mowith - Kissid, as a goodly monk the names told and taught.” - -Of what kind these relics were we have already made note. - -In St Andrew’s Tower were exhibited to the privileged the pastoral staff -of the saint, the cloak and the blood-stained kerchief, even rags and -shreds upon which he had wiped his nose and mopped his brow. We do not -wish to be irreverent; there are certain relics of pious and saintly men -which all can treat with respect if not with adoration; but relic -worship ran mad and was too often reduced to absurdity, sometimes of a -positively disgusting character. - -Onward to the shrine of the saint, first visiting Becket’s Crown--the -Corona--where we would be shown the portion of the saint’s skull which -was shorn off by the murderer’s sword. - -Then to the shrine itself, where lay the holy body, enclosed in -splendour which has been described on another page. - -The shrine was shown, maybe for the last time, in August 1538, to a -Madame de Montreuil, as described in a letter to Cromwell: “....so by -ten of the cloc, she ... went to the church, where I showed her Sainte -Thomas’s shrine, and all such things worthy of sight, at which she was -not little marveilled of the great riches thereof, saing to be -innumerable; and that if she had not seen it, all the men in the wourlde -would never a made her to belyve it. Thus ever looking and viewing more -than an oure as well the shryne as Sainct Thomas’s hed, being at both -sett cushions to knyle, and the Priour opening Saint Thomas’s hed, -_saing_ to her three times, ‘This is Sainct Thomas’ hed,’ and offered -her to kysse it, but she nother knyled nor would kysse it, but still -viewing the riches thereof.”[6] - -So for six jubilees continued this throng to come from all the lands of -Europe to this shrine in this English city; the shrine of a saint of -whom no saintly deed has been recorded. - -Then came the downfall, which Hasted has plainly described: “As this -saint was stripped of the name, honour, and adoration which had for so -great a length of time been paid to him; so was this church, most -probably a principal allurement to the dead, robbed of all the riches, -the jewels of inestimable value, and the vast quantities of gold and -silver, with which this shrine was splendidly and gloriously adorned: -his relics and bones were likewise taken away, and so destroyed and -disposed of, that what became of them could not be known, least they -might fall into such hands as might still honour them with veneration.” - -With this adoration of the shrine the great end of the pilgrimage was -attained, and our company departed “dyner-ward"-- - - “And sith they drowgh to dyner-ward, as it drew to noon. - Then, as manere and custom is, signes there they bought; - Fa men of contré shuld know whom they had sought, - Eche man set his silver in such thing as they likid.” - -“Signes,” among which were small lead bottles, containing water mingled -with the blood of the martyr; and leaden brooches, upon which were a -representation of the head of the saint, and the words _Caput Thomæ_. So -when the pilgrims scattered abroad over the countries from which they -had come, both on their journey homeward and on their return, men might -know that they had been on a pilgrimage to the shrine of St Thomas of -Canterbury; as Erasmus describes them--coming from this and other -shrines--“covered with scallop shells, stuck all over with leaden and -tin figures, adorned with straw necklaces and a bracelet of serpents’ -eggs”; also, with scrip and staff, which their priests have blessed for -them before they set out on what often was a long and perilous journey. -Here is the prayer asking for blessing upon the scrip and staff--“O Lord -Jesu Christ, who of Thy unspeakable mercy, at the - -[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS’ HOUSE, CANTERBURY] - -bidding of the Father, and by the co-operation of the Holy Spirit, wast -willing to come down from heaven, and to seek the sheep that was lost by -the deceit of the Evil One, and to carry him back on Thine own shoulders -to the flock of the Heavenly hand; and didst command the sons of Mother -Church by prayer to ask, by holy living to seek, and by knocking to -persevere; that so they may the more speedily find the reward of saving -life; we humbly beseech Thee that Thou wouldest be pleased to bless this -scrip and staff, that whosoever for love of Thy Name, shall seek to bear -the same by his side, to hang it at his neck, or to carry it in his -hands, and so on his pilgrimage to seek the aid of the saints, with the -accompaniment of humble prayer, being protected by the guardianship of -Thy right hand, may be found worthy to attain unto the joy of the -everlasting vision; through Thee, O Saviour of the World, who, with the -Father and the Holy Spirit, liveth and reigneth, ever our God, world -without end.” And when the scrip and staff were given by the priest to -the pilgrim, he said: “Take this scrip to be worn as the badge and habit -of thy pilgrimage; and this staff to be thy strength and stay in the -toil and travail of thy pilgrimage, that thou mayest be able to overcome -all the hosts of the Evil One, and to reach in safety the shrine of the -Blessed St Thomas of Canterbury, and the shrines of other saints whither -thou desirest to go; and having dutifully completed thy course, mayest -come again to thine own people with thanksgiving.” - -Let not us of these later days take upon us to jest at these “men of -old,” who “with gladness” set forth upon this pilgrimage. There were -sinners and humbugs among them, as there have been and are every time -and everywhere; but among them, also, men of humble and contrite hearts. -May we not hope that their prayer has been granted, and that the -pilgrimage of life brought them at the last “unto the joy of the -everlasting vision”? - - - - -THE RELIGIOUS - - -It is impossible to see into the future, all but impossible to see -clearly into the past; the past, as the future, often decks itself in -colours to which it has no claim. The chief impression on the minds of -most of us when we look back to mediæval days, is that they were -picturesque if somewhat uncomfortable. But both ways we usually fall -short of the fact; they were most picturesque, most uncomfortable. We -have seen how once upon a time the Cathedral, now so decorously grey, -blazed with purple and fine linen; so too was it with all life; the very -streets now so sober-minded were then a veritable kaleidoscope; all life -was highly coloured, save that of the cloister. In those times in the -good city of Canterbury it must have been as difficult when one took his -walk abroad to avoid the sight of a hospital or of a holy house as -to-day to escape from the clangour of church bells. - -If we would understand rightly the Canterbury of Becket and Cranmer, we -must remember that the rulers of the land were then the King and his -nobles and the clergy, the men of arms and the men of peace; there was -then no vast and powerful middle class. It is scarcely doubtful that had -Augustine not set up his tabernacle in Canterbury that the city would -have played but a small part on the stage of English history; she owes -her honour and renown to the men of peace who made her their capital in -England. - -Canterbury never became more than a fairly large country town, yet we -find that within her bounds were no fewer than eleven religious -houses. With two we are already friendly, the two Benedictine -establishments--the abbey of St Augustine and the priory of Christ -Church. To the latter were attached the cells of St Martin at Dover and -Canterbury College, Oxford. There were also the Austin Canons’ priory of -St Gregory; houses belonging to the Dominicans, Franciscans, and Austin -Friars; St Sepulchre, St Mildred’s; and various hospitals, including St -John Baptist’s, the Poor Priests’, St Lawrence’s for lepers, and -Eastbridge Hospital. It will help us to travel back if we gain some -outline and idea, at any rate, of the “religious” life of those times. - -It was thought by many then, as by many now, that a “regular” life, led -under strict rule, with self-denial and in retirement from the world, -helped men and women to attain nearer to the example of Christ than -could otherwise be hoped. The rule of St Benedict was by no means so -ascetic as those of some of the other orders. It was introduced into -England by Augustine in 597. Then--dealing only with those whom once we -should have met often in Canterbury--there were the Dominicans, or Black -Friars, so called on account of the black cloak and hood which they wore -over their white tunic when they went out of the bounds of their houses; -they were a preaching brotherhood, their work in life being to convert -the heathen and the heretical; they crossed over to this island in -1221. The Franciscans, or Grey Friars, also called Minorites, in their -humility holding themselves the least of all the orders. The -Augustinian, Austin, or Black Canons, a monastic order, whose first -foundation in this country was at Holy Trinity, Aldgate. The Austin -Friars, the shadow of whose presence lingers familiarly in London ears, -were ranked as “mendicants.” - -Though there were considerable differences between the different -“rules,” the life and occupations of monks of different orders were, on -the whole, not dissimilar. So let us turn back again to the priory of -Christ Church and endeavour to restore in our mind’s eye some of the -monastic buildings that centred round the Cathedral, and the ways and -manners and aims of those who dwelt therein. Once for all let us abandon -the too common idea that the “religious” led an existence of laziness, -and frequently of over-indulgence in the good things of the world from -which to so great an extent they had taken a vow of abstinence. - -Of the church we have already written sufficient. The building of next -importance was always the cloisters, which usually stood to the south of -the church, so securing a shelter from cold winds--necessary, indeed, in -our climate. Here let us turn aside for a moment; recall, such of us as -can do so, Magdalen College, Oxford, with its chapel, cloisters, hall, -and buttery, then we can conjure up at once a general idea of a great -monastic establishment. Returning to Canterbury, we find the cloisters -nestling on the north side of the church, so situate on account of -pressing reasons of space. After the church, after _opus dei_, the life -of a monk may be said to have centred in the cloister. Here the novices -and junior monks “learned their lessons,” which were many and arduous; -here the elders put those lessons into daily practice. It cannot have -been a sybaritic life; far from it. Then the refectory, or frater, which -at Canterbury ran along the north side of the cloisters--and here again -we may well recall one of the old college halls, or that beautiful hall -of the Middle Temple; the dim beams of the great roof, the dark -wainscotting, the screen at the lower end, the daïs at the upper, the -long tables running lengthwise; and--what we do not, luckily, see -now--the floor strewn with rushes, only too seldom changed. Opening off -the cloisters, generally on the east side, the chapter house. The -dormitories at Canterbury were situated in the angle formed by the -frater and the chapter house. Other buildings of importance were the -infirmary, - -[Illustration: DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS INTO THE MARTYRDOM] - -the prior’s lodging, the almonry, and ample accommodation for the -entertaining of guests. - -So that we may not gain too rosy a view of monastic hospitality, let us -turn to an account of it given by one of the ungodly, Denys of Burgundy, -who had no such stomach for monkish entertainment as had his comrade -Gerard. This was his indictment: “Great gate, little gate, so many steps -and then a gloomy cloister. Here the dortour; there the great cold -refectory, where you must sit mumchance, or at least inaudible.... ‘And -then,’ said he, ‘nobody is a man here, but all are slaves--and of what? -of a peevish, tinkling bell that never sleeps. An ’twere a trumpet now, -aye sounding alarums, ’twouldn’t freeze a man’s heart so. Tinkle, -tinkle, tinkle, and you must sit to meat with maybe no stomach for food. -Ere your meat settles in your stomach, tinkle, tinkle, and ye must to -church with maybe no stomach for devotion; I am not a hog at prayers, -for one. Tinkle, tinkle, and now you must to bed with your eyes open. -Well, by then you have contrived to shut them, some uneasy imp of -darkness has got to the bellrope, and tinkle, tinkle, it behoves you say -a prayer in the dark, whether you know one or not. If they heard the -sort of prayers I mutter when they break my rest with their tinkle! -Well, you drop off again and get about an eyeful of sleep; lo, it is -tinkle, tinkle, for matins.’” - -Caricature sometimes tells the truth more understandably than history or -realism, and these facetiæ of Denys convey a fairly accurate idea of -part of a monk’s life. From midnight to midnight it was lived by rule -and rote, full of worship, full of work. But it will become us and -entertain us to take a more serious view of the hospitality exercised by -a great convent. The Guest House, or Hostry, was an important and -integral part almost of every monastery. It was the especial duty of one -of the senior monks to look to it that everything was ready for the -guests who might come. The building devoted to the duties of hospitality -were at Canterbury of very considerable size, a hundred and fifty feet -long by forty broad, consisting of a main hall, out of which opened -small sleeping apartments resembling cubicles. The abbot himself would -receive and entertain guests of high degree; merchants and others doing -business with the house would be taken charge of by the cellarer. The -following passage, quoted by Abbot Gasquet from the _Rites of Durham_, -is interesting: “There was a famous house of hospitality, called the -Guest Hall, within the Abbey garth of Durham, on the west side, towards -the water, the Terrar of the house being master thereof, as are -appointed to give entertainment to all states, both noble, gentle, and -whatsoever degree that came thither as strangers, their entertainment -not being inferior to any place in England, both for the goodness of -their diet, the sweet and dainty furniture of their lodgings, and -generally all things necessary for travellers. And, withal, this -entertainment continuing, (the monks) not willing or commanding any man -to depart, upon his honest and good behaviour. This hall is a goodly -brave place, much like unto the body of a church, with very fair pillars -supporting it on either side, and in the midst of the hall a most large -range for the fire. The chambers and lodgings belonging to it were -sweetly kept, and so richly furnished that they were not unpleasant to -lie in, especially one chamber called the ‘King’s chamber,’ deserving -that name, in that the King himself might very well have lain in it, for -the princely linen thereof.... The Prior (whose hospitality was such as -that there needed no guest-hall, but that they (the Convent) were -desirous to abound in all liberal and free almsgiving) did keep a most -honourable house and very noble entertainment, being attended upon both -with gentlemen and yeomen, of the best in the country, as the honourable -service of his house deserved no less. The benevolence thereof, with -relief and alms of the whole Convent, was always open and free, not only -to the poor of the city of Durham, but to all the poor people of the -country besides.” - -Guests might remain some two days or nights, as a rule, special -permission having to be obtained for any longer period. - -Yet another quotation, this time from the _Memoirs of the Life of Mr -John Inglesant_, wherein he narrates the visit to the Priory of Westacre -in Wiltshire of Richard Inglesant, on an errand from the Earl of Essex -and on business for the burly King Henry. The Priory was a small house -and set in the country, but the impression his first night there made -upon him will serve to carry us back along the corridors of time: “In -the middle of the summer afternoon he crossed the brow of the hilly -common, and saw the roofs of the Priory beneath him surrounded by its -woods. The country all about lay peaceful in the soft, mellow -sunlight.... The house stood with a little walled court in front of it, -and a gate-house; and consisted of three buildings--a chapel, a large -hall, and another building containing the Prior’s parlour and other -rooms on the ground floor, and a long gallery or dormitory above, out of -which opened other chambers; the kitchens and stables were near the -latter building, on the right side of the court. The Prior received -Inglesant with deference, and took him over the house and gardens, -pointing out the well-stocked fish-ponds and other conveniences, with no -apparent wish of concealing anything.... He supped with the Prior in -hall, with the rest of the household, and retired with him to the -parlour afterwards, where cakes and spiced wine were served to them, and -they remained long together.... At last Inglesant betook himself to rest -in the guest-chamber, a room hung with arras, opening from the gallery -where the monks slept.... The Prior’s care had ordered a fire of wood on -the great hearth that lighted up the carved bed and the hunting scene -upon the walls. He lay long and could not sleep. All night long, at -intervals, came the sound of chanting along the great hall and up the -stairs into the dormitory, as the monks sung the service of matins, -lauds, and prime.” - -Yes, it was a busy, pious life that was led in a well-ordered monastery; -the service of God and of man combined to leave few idle moments, and -the true religions, we are told, combined “with monastic simplicity an -angelic good humour.” As men vary outside, so do they within monastic -walls: some saints, some sinners; some dour, some sweet; some patient, -some hot-blooded. They were human, those old monks, though somehow -to-day we are apt to look upon them as either too entirely -other-worldly, or too entirely this-worldly. - -Before quitting them it will not be unamusing, or, indeed, without -instruction, to quote a few passages from Fuller’s _The Church-history -of Britain from the Birth of Jesus Christ until the Year M.DC.XLVIII._, -in which that worthy writer tells us of “Some generall Conformities -observed in all Convents,” dealing with “the rule of the antient -Benedictines.” - -“_Let Monks_ (after the example of _David_) _praise God seven times a -day_. - -“1. _At Cock-crowing_: Because the Psalmist saith, _At midnight will I -praise the Lord_: and most conceive that Christ rose from the dead about -that time. - -“2. _Matutines_: at the _first hour_, or _six of the clock_, when the -Jewish morning sacrifice was offered. And at what time Christ’s -resurrection was by the Angels first notified to the women. - -“3. At the _third hour_, or _nine of the clock before none_: when, -according to _S. Marke_, Christ was condemned, and scourged by _Pilate_. - -“4. At the _sixt hour_, or _twelve of the clock at high noon_: when -Christ was crucified and darknesse over all the earth. - -“5. At the _ninth hour_, or _three of the clock in the afternoon_: when -Christ gave up the ghost, and, which was an hour of publick prayer in -the Temple, and privately in his closet with _Cornelius_. - -“6. Vespers: at the _twelfth hour_, or _six a clock in the afternoon_: -when the evening sacrifice was offered in the Temple, and when Christ is -supposed taken down from the Crosse. - -“7. At _seven of the clock at night_ (or the first hour beginning the -nocturnall twelve): when Christ’s agonie in the garden was conceived -began. - -“The first of those was performed at two of the clock in the morning: -when the Monks (who went to bed at eight at night) had slept six hours, -which were judged sufficient for nature.” - -Further, we read:-- - -“Let every Monk have two Coats, and two Cowles, etc.” - -“Let every Monk have his Table-book, Knife, Needle, and Handkerchief.” - -“Let the Bed of every Monk have a Mat, Blanket, Rugge, and Pillow.” - -We may part from them with the words of Hasted in our ears; of the -Reformation and of the destruction of Becket’s shrine, he says: “This -great change could not but seem strange to the people who had still -veneration for their reputed saint; and the violence offered to his -shrine could not but fill their hearts with inward regret, and private -murmurings; but their discontent did not break out into open rebellion -here, as it did on some like occasion in different places in the -kingdom. To quiet the people, therefore, and to convince them of the -propriety, and even necessity, of these changes, the monks were in -general cried out against, as given to every shameful and abominable -vice; and reports were industriously spread abroad, that the monasteries -were receptacles of the worst of people.... The greater monasteries -were, for the most part, well governed, and lived under the strictest -discipline; ... they promoted learning, they educated youth, and -dispensed charity with a liberal hand to all around them.... The Prior, -who at the time of the dissolution had presided over this convent for -three-and-twenty years, was a learned, grave, and religious man, and his -predecessors had been such for a length of time before. The convent was -a society of grave persons; the aged were diligent to train up the -novices both in the rules of their institution, and in gravity and -sobriety.... All their revenues and gains were expended, either in alms -and hospitality, or in the stately and magnificent building of their -church.... Their time was for the most part spent in exercises of -fasting, penance, and devout meditations, and in attending the divine -offices in the church.” - -The lives of nuns in convents of women were to all intents and purposes -practically the same as those led by monks, so we will visit for a few -minutes--in spirit--the nunnery of St Sepulchre, which stood near the -old Riding-gate. It was founded by St Anselm about the year 1100 for -Benedictine nuns, whose lives were passed very much in accordance with -those of their brother monks. Hasted tells us that Prior Walter, of -Christ Church, gave to the nunnery “as much wood as one horse, going -twice a day, could fetch thence, where the wood reeves should -appoint"--namely, from the wood of Blean, beyond Harbledown; “but there -being much uncertainty in this grant, the nuns, in 1270, releasing it, -procured in lien and by way of exchange for it a certain portion of the -above-mentioned wood to be assigned and made over to them; which wood -retains from these nuns the name of Minchen Wood at this time.” And -further on he says discreetly, “Time and indulgence of superiors -bringing their corruptions, nuns became in process of time not such -recluses as their order required.” So in 1305 steps were taken by -Archbishop Winchelsea to keep them more straitly. It was here that the -Holy Maid of Kent, “the great impostor of her time, was a veiled nun and -votaress.” - -The story of Elizabeth Barton, more generally known as the Holy Maid of -Kent, throws not a few curious lights upon the beliefs and manners of -the sixteenth century. She was born in or about the year 1506, and when -about nineteen years old was living in the service of Thomas Cobb, who -was steward to an estate of Archbishop Warham at Aldington, which lies -four miles south-east of Ashford, commanding an extensive prospect over -Romney Marsh. The living here, St Martin’s, was presented by Warham to -Erasmus in 1511, but he held it for only a few months. - -She was afflicted with some form of nervous complaint, which exhibited -itself in the form of trances or fits; for days together she would lie -half conscious, giving vent to wondrous sayings, telling of events in -other places of which apparently she could have no knowledge, and -holding forth in marvellous words in the rebuke of sin. It can scarce be -wondered at that the ignorant and superstitious neighbours were amazed -and that they began to talk of her, some saying that she was inspired of -the Holy Spirit, others that a devil possessed her. Her master consulted -the village priest, Richard Masters, and together they watched the girl, -coming to the conclusion that it was a good and not an evil spirit that -was speaking through the mouth of the Maid. The affair was brought to -the notice of the archbishop by the priest, and a gracious message of -encouragement was sent to the girl. But as the months passed by her -illness left her, and she missed the notoriety which she had gained, -although she was still held in pious reverence by friends and -neighbours. She was unable to resist the temptation to feign a -continuance of her trances and inspired utterances. - -Her renown spread abroad and Warham decided that the matter should be -inquired into, sending down two monks of Christ Church, Edward Bocking -and William Hadley. Bocking is believed to have been educated at -Canterbury College, Oxford, now Christ Church, and to have been warden -there. He left there for Christ Church, Canterbury, probably in 1526, -the fatal year in which he was despatched upon this mission of inquiry. -We know not what manner of man he was, save for these dealings of his -with the Maid; could we gain the details of his story, it would add -another and striking chapter to the history of villainy. He saw in -Elizabeth a tool, which would be useful to him if he could but temper -it. He instructed her in the Catholic legendary lore, and taught her to -argue with and to refute heretics. Strype includes Masters in the plot, -as thus: “And to serve himself of this woman and her fits, for his own -benefit, he, with one Dr Bocking, a monk of Canterbury, directed her to -say in one of her trances, that she should never be well till she -visited the image of Our Lady in a certain chapel in the said Masters’ -parish, called the chapel in Court-at-Street; and that Our Lady had -appeared to her, and told her so; and that if she came on a certain day -thither, she should be restored to health by miracle. This story, and -the day of her resort unto the chapel, was studiously given out by the -said parson and monk; so that at the appointed day there met two -thousand persons to see this maid, and the miracle to be wrought on her. -Thither at the set time she came, and there, before them all, disfigured -herself, and pretended her ecstasies.... In her trance in this chapel -she gave out, that Our Lady bade her become a nun, and that Dr Bocking -should be her ghostly father.” Also the “spirit” moved her further: “It -spake also many things for the confirmation of pilgrimages and trentals, -hearing of masses and confessions, and many other such things.” “And one -Thwaites, a gentleman, wrote a great book of her feigned miracles, for a -copy to the printer, to be printed off,” which was called _A Miraculous -Work of late done at Court-of-Strete in Kent, published to the Devoute -People of this Tyme for their Spiritual Consolation_. Soon after this -exhibition she was admitted to the priory of St Sepulchre at Canterbury, -and became known as the Nun of Kent. She was wise enough to stifle -rivalry, for “there was one Hellen, a maid dwelling about Totnam, that -had visions and trances also. She came to this holy Maid and told her of -them. But she assured her (it may be because she had a mind to have the -sole glory of such visions herself) that hers were but delusions of the -Devil; and advised her from henceforth not to entertain them, but to -cast them out of her mind.” Other monks assisted Bocking in the -deception. - -“Archbishop Warham having a roll of many sayings which she spake in her -pretended trances, some whereof were in very rude rhymes, sent them up -to the King; which, however revered by others, he made but light of, and -showed them to More, bidding him show his thoughts thereof. Which after -he had perused, he told the King, that in good faith (for that oath he -used) he found nothing in them that he could either esteem or regard: -for a simple woman, in his mind, of her own wit might have spoken them.” - -Then, unfortunately for herself, Elizabeth embarked on the dangerous sea -of politics, especially unsafe in those days when the axe or the rope -put a stop to any unfavourable comment. As when the divorce of Catherine -came upon the tapis, and Elizabeth indulged herself in expressing such -opinions as these, embodied in a fantastic tale “of an angel that -appeared, and bade ‘her’ go unto the King, that infidel Prince of -England, and say, that I command him to amend his life; and that he -leave three things which he loveth, and purposeth upon; that is, that he -take off the Pope’s right and patrimony from him. The second, that he -destroy all these new folks of opinion, and the works of their _new -learning_. The third, that if he married and took Anne to wife, the -vengeance of God plague him.” But Henry was not moved, unless it was to -anger; Warham was convinced of the Maid’s holiness, and withdrew his -promise to marry Henry; further, he persuaded Wolsey to see her, with -exactly what result is not definitely known. She gained vast popularity -as Catherine’s champion, and many noble persons became her patrons. She -even went to the extreme length of forcing herself into the King’s -presence when he visited Canterbury. Anne did not die within a month of -her marriage, as the Maid had predicted, so she added to her offences by -declaring that Henry was before God no longer King. Cranmer, who had -succeeded Warham, ordered the Maid to be subjected to a strict -examination. Eventually, in September 1533, she confessed her fraud: -“she never had visions in all her life, but all that she ever said was -feigned of her own imagination, only to satisfy the minds of those which -resorted to her, and to obtain worldly praise.” Her counsellors, -including Bocking, Hadley, Masters, and Thwaites, were committed to the -Tower, brought before the Star Chamber, and they too confessed. So the -plot exploded. A scaffold was erected near to Paul’s Cross, from which -the Nun and her chief aiders and abettors read their confessions; this -function was repeated at Canterbury in the churchyard of the monastery -of Holy Trinity. We need not here go into the political capital which -Cromwell made out of the intimacy of various enemies of the King with -the Maid. - -On the 20th April 1534, the unhappy girl and others were done to death -at Tyburn; and these were her last words: “Hither I am come to die; and -I have not been only the cause of mine own death, which most justly I -have deserved, but also I am the cause of the death of all those -persons, which at this time here suffer. And yet, to say the truth, I am -not so much to be blamed, considering that it was well known to these -learned men that I was a poor wench, without learning; and therefore -they might easily have perceived, that the things that were done by me -could not proceed in no such sort; but their capacities and learning -could right well judge from whence they proceeded, and that they were -altogether feigned: but because the thing which I feigned was profitable -to them, therefore they much praised me; and bore me in hand, that it -was the Holy Ghost, and not I, that did them; and then I, being puffed -up with their praises, fell into a certain pride and foolish fantasy -with myself, and thought I might feign what I would; which thing hath -brought me to this case; and for other which now I cry God and the -King’s highness most heartily mercy, and desire you all, good people, to -pray to God to have mercy on me, and on all them that here suffer with -me.” - -There is tragedy lurking there, and light upon those days. But can we -laugh--we who are without superstition and too often without respect? - - - - -OTHER SHRINES - - -There is an old house outside the West Gate, built about 1563 on the -site of an hostel, where, when the city gates were shut of a night time, -belated pilgrims were wont to seek refreshment and rest. But as we stand -and look at the ancient gables, and think of those still more ancient -which these replaced, does any Canterbury Pilgrim come forth to greet -us? No; but we have “stopped before a very old house bulging out over -the road; a house with long, low lattice-windows bulging out still -farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends bulging out too, so -that,” we fancied, “the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see -who was passing on the narrow pavement below. It was quite spotless in -its cleanliness. The old-fashioned brass knocker on the low arched door, -ornamented with carved garlands of fruit and flowers, twinkled like a -star; the two stone steps descending to the door were as white as if -they had been covered with fair linen; and all the angles and corners, -and carvings and mouldings, and quaint little panes of glass, and -quainter little windows, though as old as the hills, were as pure as any -snow that ever fell upon the hills.” - -We have never seen Uriah Heep peeping slyly out of those quaint little -windows, for somehow Uriah has never quite lived for us; but we have -seen Agnes there, to whom David eventually lost his heart--which has -always seemed to us an unwise proceeding, for men do not like taking a -permanent second place by marrying their - -[Illustration: WESTGATE, CANTERBURY] - -guardian angels; there have looked out at us old Mr Wickfield and young -David, Miss Betsy Trotwood and Mr Dick--all very much alive. Then it is -delightful on a frosty morning to see Doctor Strong bestowing his -gaiters “on a beggar-woman, who occasioned some scandal in the -neighbourhood by exhibiting a fine infant from door to door, wrapped in -those garments, which were universally recognised, being as well known -in the vicinity as the Cathedral.” But who would wish to meet the Old -Soldier? And was it not Mr Micawber who came to “see the Cathedral. -Firstly, on account of its being so well worth seeing.... And secondly, -on account of the great probability of something turning up in a -cathedral town”? Then we may sit, if we list, with little David in the -Cathedral any Sunday morning, the sunless air, the sensation of the -world being shut out, the resounding of the organ through the -black-and-white arched galleries and aisles affecting us as they did -him, being as wings that take us back to childish days. - -A giant of a man meets us in these city streets, a long-legged, -white-haired, bespectacled man, one who signed a letter “W. M. T.,” in -which he wrote: “I passed an hour in the Cathedral, which seemed all -beautiful to me; the fifteenth century part, the thirteenth century -part, and the crypt above all, which they say is older than the -Conquest.... Fancy the church quite full; the altar lined with -pontifical gentlemen bobbing up and down; the dear little boys in white -and red flinging about the incense pots; the music roaring out from the -organs; all the monks and the clergy in their stalls, and the archbishop -on his throne--oh, how fine! And then think of the ✠ of our Lord -speaking quite simply to simple Syrian people, a child or two maybe at -his knees, as he taught them that love was the truth.” Thus spake -Thackeray the cynic. - -In the days of Elizabeth--to be exact, in the year 1561, on May -22nd--John Marlowe was married to Catherine Arthur in the church of St -George the Martyr, the said John being a man of some standing and a -member later of the Guild of Shoemakers and Tanners. Then in the same -church, in the year 1564, on February 26th was christened Christopher, -the eldest son of the above. The boy when fourteen years of age won a -scholarship in the King’s School, of which the master then was Nicholas -Goldsborough. When Kit left the school we know not; he went to Corpus -Christi College, Cambridge; he went to London; he wrote _Faustus_, -_Tamburlaine the Great_, _The Rich Jew of Malta_, _Edward II._, _Hero -and Leander_; sang - - “Come live with me and be my love.” - -And there is a foolish monument to him, where once stood the -butter-market, outside Christ Church gate. Of the man’s manner and -appearance we know not anything; his works live, but the man is dead -even to our mind’s eye. Yet there are some of us who would rather meet -his shadow here than even those of Chaucer and of Dickens; perchance -because we know him not. - -Canterbury is yet in many ways a mediæval city, despite railways and -electric lights. We can enter it by the fourteenth century West Gate, -built by Archbishop Simon of Sudbury, the one gateway mercifully spared -to us out of six; then we can walk down an old-world High Street, -overlooked by beetle-browed, gabled houses. Is not the King’s Bridge and -the old home of the Canterbury Weavers quaintly beautiful? This old -house dates back possibly to the fifteenth century, of course having -been pulled about more or less by rude restorers; at any rate it is old, -at any rate it is quaint. Stand thereby on a moonlit night, drink in -the picturesqueness of the dark masses of black shadow and reflection, -the bright masses of cold light; there is no corner more charming in -Nuremberg or Rothenberg; the sluggish waters of the many-branched Stour -flow beneath, and the air is tremulous with the chiming of bells from -many a steeple. The passers-by of to-day are not those whom we should -see, for we should bend our mind’s eye on monk, priest and pilgrim, on -knight, dame and squire, or king, queen and prince; it needs no vivid -imagination to call up these shades of the past. But above all and -through all the pageantry of old days looms the church; Canterbury is a -city of churches, of priories, monasteries, hospitals. There is St -Dunstan’s, where in the Roper vault they say is the head of Sir Thomas -More; St Alphege, with a curious epitaph referring to dancing in the -churchyard; St Margaret’s, where sleeps Somner, antiquary and loyalist; -St Peter’s, once used by a French congregation; and many another. The -Black Friars, the Grey Friars, the White Friars, all had houses in -Canterbury. On the banks of the river, hard by St Peter’s, the Black -Friars in the reign of Henry III. founded one of their first homes, and -now their ancient refectory is a Unitarian Baptist Chapel! Therein -Daniel Defoe was wont - -[Illustration: THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS] - -to preach. A portion of the house of the Grey Friars still stands on -arches above the waters of the river; but as we look on it of no friar -do we think, but of the gay cavalier, Richard Lovelace, gallant and -poet, who sang-- - - “When flowing cups run swiftly round - With no allaying Thames, - Our careless heads with roses crown’d, - Our hearts with loyal flames; - When thirsty grief in wine we steep, - When healths and draughts go free-- - Fishes that tipple in the deep - Know no such liberty.” - -But he wrote other and more pleasing verses, though none more curious. -The Brethren of St Francis, the Franciscans or Grey Friars, came to this -country in the first quarter of the thirteenth century, and their first -habitation was this in Canterbury. They numbered but nine, these first -comers, of whom only one was a priest, a man of Norfolk, by name Richard -Ingworth. The monks of Christ Church were hospitable to them; they -acquired a small piece of land and built thereon a wooden chapel. But it -was felt to be incumbent on this begging fraternity not to become owners -of land, so the donors of this plot handed it over to the city to be -held for the friars. They did not, however, remain on their original -site, but moved in 1270 to a tiny island in the Stour called Bynnewith. -Henry Beale, mayor in 1478, was buried in their church. Then in bad time -came Henry VIII., and the brotherhood was turned out of house and home. -In the days of Good Queen Bess the house was in the possession of the -Lovelaces; so here dwelt Colonel Richard, cavalier and poet, who wrote -this immortal lyric:-- - - “Tell me not, Sweet, I am unkind - That from the nunnery - Of thy chaste breast and quiet mind, - To war and arms I fly. - - “True, a new mistress now I chase, - The first foe in the field; - And with a stronger faith embrace - A sword, a horse, a shield. - - “Yet this inconstancy is such - As you too shall adore; - I could not love thee, Dear, so much, - Loved I not Honour more.” - -Then there are the East Bridge Hospital, possibly founded by Becket for -“wayfaring and hurt men,” now an almshouse, and St John’s Hospital, with -its charming half-timber gateway, and others. And what should such a -city do without a castle? Yet the good citizens are content with a -neglected ruin, the remnants of a fortress first built in the twelfth -century, and full of historic memory. But castles have no living faith -to keep them whole and sound; they have no usefulness, and this is a -utilitarian age. Indeed, it is solely due to accident that any part of -the fine old keep remains, for in the early years of last century the -city fathers decided to utilise it as a quarry. But modern picks found -ancient cement too strong for them, and the undertaking, not proving -remunerative, was abandoned. It would have been a gross blunder to leave -Canterbury unfortified, standing as it did upon the most important coast -road in the kingdom. The keep was completed about 1125, and the castle -further strengthened by Henry II. At one period it was the principal -county prison. Here it stands amid the prosaic modernity of to-day, a -hoar and unhonoured relic of the wild past. - -From this desecration we turn to the leafy walks that surround the Dane -John, that mysterious mound whose principal use has been to afford sport -for etymological antiquaries. Donjon, we are told it may be rightly; may -be also wrongly. Best had we mount the steps to the summit of the city -wall, hereabouts in a wonderfully good state of preservation, and walk -along it toward the cattle-market and so on to St Augustine’s College. -Here we touch fingers with pagan days, for on this spot, so it is -related, Ethelbert worshipped the gods of his fathers. To St Augustine -he gave this temple, though such a high-sounding name misfits what was -doubtless a modest erection, and it was consecrated as a Christian -church in the name of St Pancras. Between it and the city rose the -Benedictine monastery of St Peter and St Paul, afterward dedicated also -to Augustine himself and by his name thenceforth generally known. In -July 1538 came the downfall with the arrival of Henry VIII.’s -commissioners; there was a demonstration of resistance on the part of -the monks, but cannon provided a conclusive argument; and then the end, -the glory departed. Here were buried not only Augustine, but King -Ethelbert and many of the archbishops. The saint who came as an apostle -of Christianity to Kent founded this great monastery; now it is a -missionary college of the Church of England, whence preachers of -Christ’s teaching go forth to the ends of the earth. On the saint’s tomb -could once be read a brief epitome of the events of his stirring life: -“Here resteth the Lord Augustine, first - -[Illustration: IN THE QUADRANGLE, ST AUGUSTINE’S COLLEGE, CANTERBURY] - -Archbishop of Canterbury, who erewhile was sent hither by Blessed -Gregory, Bishop of the City of Rome, and being helped by God to work -miracles, drew over King Ethelbert and his race from the worship of -idols to the faith of Christ. Having ended in peace the days of his -ministry, he departed hence seven days before the Kalends of June in the -reign of the same king, A.D. 605.” - -To King Ethelbert, a heathen, and to Bertha, his queen, a Christian, -came Augustine to preach the gospel; and Christian worship he found -carried on by Lindhard, the queen’s French chaplain, in a small chapel -standing outside the city walls, the present church of St Martin, -altered in aspect, but the “mother church of England.” Through the mists -of centuries we cannot clearly see; we know not how far well or ill -disposed toward Christianity the King may have been; at any rate, as he -permitted his queen to follow her creed, his disposition cannot have -been actively evil. The King met the band of missionaries in the Isle of -Thanet, promised not to molest them, and to give them all that was -needed for their support, with permission to make all the converts they -could. From the island Augustine and his comrades crossed to -Richborough, the old Roman fortress of Rutupiæ, and so on by the Roman -road toward Canterbury. On the slope of St Martin’s Hill the welcome -sight of a Christian place of worship met their eyes, light amid -darkness. As Augustine stood on the height, looking over the rude city -on the islands of the Stour, did any prophetic vision come to him? His -heart was doubtless high with hope, but he dared not have dreamed that -the future was to be so glorious as we know it to have been. Then came -the baptism of Ethelbert on Whitsunday in the year 597, in St Martin’s -Church, and as usual, even in later days, the example of a king soon set -a fashion. Of St Pancras’ Church we already know the story. Of the first -cathedral in Canterbury no stone remains. When the saint died he was -buried not far from the roadside, the Kent and Canterbury Hospital -occupying the ground where his bones rested--until they were translated -to the church of the monastery he had founded but had not lived to see -completed. It is told of a stern soldier that he desired to be buried by -the roadside, so that he might hear the tramp of the troops as they -marched by to war; is it too far-fetched to think of the missionary -Augustine lying asleep somewhere near by the college that has succeeded -to his monastery, comforted by the sound of voices that like his are to -preach the gospel to the heathen? Indeed, Canterbury is a city of great -memories. - -Augustine was, of course, the monastery’s chief treasure, and next came -the body of St Mildred which was given to the house by Canute. It must -never be forgotten by those who would look at things mediæval with -mediæval eyes, that in those days the dead were more powerful than the -living; even kings humbled themselves before the bones of dead saints. -This relic worship became almost a madness, and the rage seized upon -monks and their rulers, who stooped to the meanest thefts in order to -possess themselves of such valuables. It is related that the monks of St -Augustine’s Abbey offered to make Roger, the keeper of the altar of the -Martyrdom, their abbot, if only he would steal for them the fragment of -Becket’s skull which was entrusted to his charge. He fell to the -temptation, and rose to be ruler of the rival house. For many a long -year indeed St Augustine’s dominated and domineered over Christ Church; -and for more than one reason. The former was an abbey, the latter but a -mere priory; in the precincts of the former was buried England’s apostle -Augustine, and Ethelbert, Augustine’s successor Lawrence--indeed, the -first eight occupants of the archiepiscopal throne. How could a poor -cathedral with never an archbishop’s bones hope to contend with such -favoured rivalry? So St Cuthbert, the ninth archbishop, came to the -rescue, preferring to lay his bones in his own cathedral rather than in -the church of the rival establishment. He foresaw the difficulties that -would arise; provided against them by procuring from the King of Kent -and from the Pope an authorisation to be buried within the city walls, -which he handed to the sorrowing monks as he lay adying, bidding them -also to bury him first and toll the bell afterward. So it came to pass -that when Abbot Aldhelm and the monks of St Augustine’s came to claim -their lawful prey, they were defeated and retired in dismay. They -struggled once more over the body of the succeeding Archbishop Bregwin, -and then succumbed to the inevitable. The glory of the Cathedral waxed; -it covered the graves of St Dunstan, St Alphege, and St Anselm; then -came St Thomas and eclipse to St Augustine. - -Of the church but a few fragments remain, though at the beginning of -last century Ethelbert’s Tower, built about 1047, was still standing. -South of the church are the remains of St Pancras’ Church, where -excavations have revealed much of interest. - -After the heavy hand of Henry VIII. had fallen on it, the abbey served -him as a palace, afterward coming into the possession of many owners, -and at length reaching a deep depth of degradation and ruin. From this -it was rescued by Mr A. J. Beresford Hope in 1844, and was eventually -incorporated as a college to provide “an education to qualify young men -for the service of the Church in the distant dependencies of the British -Empire, with such strict regard to economy and frugality of habit as may -fit them for the special duties to be discharged, the difficulties to be -encountered, and the hardships to be endured.” The college buildings -were designed by Mr Butterfield, and opened in 1848 on St Peter’s Day. -Of the old abbey, several buildings have been “worked into” the new -college; one of the most important is the fourteenth century gateway, -which is the main entrance, and above the archway of which is the State -bedchamber, in which Elizabeth and other monarchs have rested their -royal bones. The College Hall is the old Guesten Hall, and retains the -ancient open-work roof. - -But somehow there does not shimmer round St Augustine’s the romance of -history; it is too closely in touch with to-day to allow us to dream of -its yesterday. We meet no shadowy figures there of abbot or monk, of -prince or soldier, hear no echoes of the clash of arms or of the voices -of singers. It is as dead to us as the Cathedral and the quaint streets -near by are alive. - -From the city the Longport Road leads up a gentle ascent to St Martin’s. -To whom this church was first dedicated is uncertain. Of the Roman -building only some of the bricks remain; it was to some extent restored -by the Normans, and to a great extent rebuilt in the thirteenth century. - -The first feeling as we enter the churchyard and look upon this famous -House of God is one of disappointment; there is something rough and -homely about the clumsy walls of stones, flint, and Roman tiles, and the -squat tower, creeper clad. But the associations of the little building -render it lovely to us. No matter what the faith may be of him who -stands in this seemly God’s-acre, he cannot but be profoundly impressed -by the view as he turns first to the spot where Augustine baptised the -heathen king, and then toward the soaring Cathedral tower, beneath whose -shadow lie buried so many Christian kings and rulers. The very building -“has had a remarkable history, surviving - -[Illustration: ST MARTIN’S CHURCH, CANTERBURY] - -disuse and decay, surviving the savage destructiveness of Jutes, the -devastation of Danish invaders, the innovating rigour of Norman -architects, and the apathy of succeeding centuries.” Setting our backs -to the older we turn to later days and to-day, as we walk home to the -city. The sun is setting; the sky panoplied in gold; lights shine out -here and there from homely windows; workmen tramp to their rest; there -is a gentle melancholy reigning over all things, as there ever is in -ancient cities; above all broods the Cathedral, its splendid tower, -steeped in the rays of the departing day, looking down as though it were -no handiwork of mortal man, but some creation of Nature, immutable, -inscrutable, full of majesty, of power, of everlasting dignity. - - - - -A CANTERBURY ROUNDABOUT - - -There are many delightful places round about Canterbury, beautiful to -look on and historically of the greatest interest. We set out of a -morning along Northgate, passing the fine half-timbered gateway of St -John’s Hospital, which was founded by Lanfranc, in the year 1084, for -the comfort of the aged who were poor and infirm. The entrance is a most -beautiful piece of fifteenth century timber-work, one of the most -delightful “bits” in Canterbury, and the enclosure within is a veritable -harbour of refuge from the noise and the turmoil without. The west door -of the chapel is Norman, and there are other fragments which will -interest the architect. In the hall is preserved a sixteenth century -account-book, from which we quote this curious item: “Note that Laurence -Wryght was admonished the xxviij daye of Maye the fyrst yere of Kyng -Edwarde the vjth for sclanderyng of the prior Christofer Sprott and the -pryors syster Margaret Forster for dwellyng yn to tenements under on -rofe. Wyttnesses brother Wyllyam Pendleton, brother Wyllyam Kytson”; one -more sad proof that brethren do not always dwell together in unity or -amity. - -On, past the depressing range of barracks and along the straight, level -road to Sturry. Esturei, the island in the Stour, is a pleasing, -old-fashioned village, with ample accommodation for the refreshment of -man and beast. The church of St Nicholas stands guarded by a grove of -chestnut-trees, and hard by are the remains, including the gate, of -Sturry Court, dating from the reign of James I. Turning to the right -just beyond the Welsh Harp Inn--how does such a sign come here?--we -reach in a few minutes Fordwich bridge, beneath which flows the narrow -waters of the Stour; once on a time the scene of busy traffic, for we -are looking on the ancient port of Canterbury. How changed the scene, -now so quiet and out-of-the-world, since the days when this was a tidal -water, since an arm of the sea covered the valley of the Stour as far up -as Chilham, beyond Canterbury. Up to Fordwich--possibly Fiord Wich--in -olden days large vessels could be navigated, hence the importance of the -place for trading purposes. Domesday Book records that there were seven -fisheries and ten mills here--a busy, thriving place, now the home of -memories. The Abbey of St Augustine owned the manor here, by gift from -Edward the Confessor and others, and the monks and the townspeople do -not appear to have lived upon the best of terms. The monks of Christ -Church also traded here, and their presence does not appear to have made -for peace. Fordwich was a “limb” of the Sandwich Cinque Port, on the -same river but fourteen miles farther down the stream, sharing with that -ancient and once glorious town the ship service, so valuable to the -kings of England. Until 1861 Fordwich possessed a corporation, the first -mayor in 1292 being one John Maynard. The government consisted of the -mayor, twelve jurats, the freemen, and various officers, whose powers -included those of life and death. The works of Nature and of man have -combined to destroy the commercial prosperity of the erstwhile port; the -Wantsum--which cut off Thanet from the mainland--has ceased to be; the -Stour has silted up, to the detriment also of decayed Sandwich; and -Canterbury is connected with the sea by railways to Whitstable, -Faversham, and Dover. - -Therefore as we stand upon this little bridge of stone, though the -prospect has many charms it is tinged with the sadness of decay and -death. There is the ancient crane of wood, now usually idle; and the -river-banks once so busy are now deserted save by occasional -merry-makers and water parties. Much water has flowed beneath this -bridge since Fordwich was a thriving sea-port, but less and less year by -year--the tide of prosperity has ebbed with the tides of the sea; all -that is left is but a memory and a few pieces of wreckage on the shore -of time. - -Passing over the bridge we walk through the deserted village, for such -it appears to be at this hour of noon, until we come to the sign of the -Fordwich Arms, where we may rest and restore. Opposite the inn is the -Town Hall, of which we have heard so much that its diminutive size is -somewhat startling. It is a square building with high-pitched, tiled -roof; the upper story is half timbered, overhanging the lower of mingled -stone and brick. Ascending a steep, short flight of modern wooden -stairs, we enter the quaint Council Chamber--quaint in its tininess as -compared with the matters of import once enacted therein; it is little -more than thirty feet long by twenty-three broad, and is lighted by -three windows of lattice. The wall opposite to the entrance is -wainscoted, in the centre being the mayor’s seat, with those of the -jurats on either hand; and, above, the royal arms and those of the -Cinque Ports, with the legend below--“1660. Love and Honour the Truth”; -and we will trust that the mayor and jurats did so, for their powers -were great. Across the room runs a heavy black beam, on either end of -which stand two gaudy drums, once beaten by the heavy hands of the -pressgang; and in the centre the village cucking-stool, the use of which -is deemed no longer necessary. It is said--with what want of truth who -shall decide?--that a sort of cupboard high up in the wall, was used as -a drying loft for the unfortunate ladies after they had been immersed. -Women had more wrongs than rights in those forceful days. On the ground -floor is the lock-up, a chilly place, now a mere curiosity; once a very -stern reality to debtors, poachers and greater malefactors. - -Turning back from the river, we proceed to the church, surrounded by a -grassy graveyard; there is not much to detain us here, the building -being chiefly interesting for its old-world air. There is the pew once -used by the mayor and another for the singers and players, who aforetime -sat aloft in the gallery beneath the tower; a Norman font and a fine -tomb, which possibly was that of the founder of the church. In the -woodwork of the gallery at the west end are two shelves, upon which were -placed the loaves of bread to be distributed on a Sunday to the poor, -under the bequest of Thomas Bigge. - -We can return to Canterbury by another and more pleasant route than that -by which we came. Following the road uphill, past the pretty cottage -where we obtained the keys of the church, we turn to the right, so -gaining a cleanly field path. Before us rise low grassy knolls; behind -us, screened by trees, the spire of Fordwich church and the gables of -its houses and cottages; on our right hand the broad, flat valley of the -Stour, the Sturry Road marked by the straight line of trees. Bobbing up -and down goes the path, so that we scarcely note that we are gradually -ascending, until suddenly we find ourselves high up, looking down on the -outskirts of Canterbury; beneath us the trumpets ring out from the -barracks notes of modernity and echoes of old fighting days; before us -soars the tower of the Cathedral, shrouded--when we saw it--in mists -and wisps of falling rain; on our left the level ground where the -cavalry exercise. Along this track for sure, when in old days the valley -was a swamp, many a weary traveller has toiled from the coast unto the -old city; how their hearts must have leaped within them as they saw -rising there the Angel Steeple, perhaps bathed in the rays of the -setting sun, perchance veiled in sorrowful clouds. As did we, so must -they have passed on down the slope to St Martin’s Church, and so to the -city gate, now vanished. It is but a short walk this which we have -taken, short in the distance we traverse, but it takes us back to dim, -far gone ages; now the train, with its pennant of white, thunders along -the valley, where of old coracles have floated, and we return from our -visit to a village that may be called a mile-stone on the road of -history, to a great cathedral city, where Britons shivered in mud and -wicker hovels on the reedy islets of the Stour. - -On a fresh and breezy morning, the sky washed clean by the rain and -flecked with thin white clouds, we walked out by the West Gate on our -way to Harbledown, by many held to be Chaucer’s “little town” which -“y-cleped is Bob-up-and-down, Under - -[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL, ST MARTIN’S CHURCH TOWER, AND HARBLEDOWN - -From the Priory Garden, Canterbury] - -the Blee in Canterbury way.” Turning along the London Road to the left, -the road to Whitstable running right ahead, we soon found ourselves -leaving the main road by a small lane, the Canterbury end of the famous -Pilgrims’ Way from Winchester. How ancient this track may be no man -knows; but it was in existence long before pilgrimages were dreamed of, -before Christianity had come to the country, being utilised probably for -the conveyance of metals and merchandise from the west to the east. Soon -we have clambered through the mud to the summit of a little hill, from -which we gain a wide view of the surrounding country. Before us stands -out Bigberry Wood, with its ancient camp; turning to the left, on either -side the mill, whose sails are at rest, we see Canterbury spread out in -the broad valley, which to the eyes of the earliest wayfarers by this -route presented a desolate scene of marsh and woodland. Turning to our -right there are the hop fields, with gaunt bare poles; the red roofs of -Sidney Cooper’s home; and, farther round, Harbledown and the Hospital of -St Nicholas. We go on down the slippery descent, until we reach a -brawling stream, spanned by a small wooden bridge; keeping to our right, -through the hop field, we soon find a path clambering up toward the -hospital, and suddenly before us the stone archway covering the well -known by the name of the Black Prince. Primroses are peeping forth out -of the abundant winter foliage; but for some reason we cannot call up -much interest in this well, ancient though it be, perhaps because of the -falsity of the story that connects it with the Black Prince. A few yards -higher and we find ourselves behind the long, low building of the -hospital, and then we stand within what we may call the precincts. This -lazar house was founded by the busy Lanfranc, and the west door of the -church is Norman work. The interior of this edifice is well worth -visiting; there is about it--though restored--a savour of old-world days -and a pathos of suffering, as we think of the leprous men and women who -have worshipped here long days ago. The Norman carving on some of the -pillars is good, and the roof a fine example of the strength of old -work. In the chancel are some old seats, and some benches older still in -the body of the church. Old--how old! echoes through our mind as we -stand here, and again as we lay our hands on the ancient gnarled tree in -the churchyard; how old it all is, this church set high upon the hill, -overlooking a vast stretch of valleys and uplands. What sights has this -old tree looked down upon, what sounds heard--troops marching by to the -war, pilgrims marching by to the shrine of St Thomas (for we are looking -down on the road to London). How the coaches toiled up these hills a -century ago. And even as we listen, we hear the rush and trumpeting of a -motor-car. - -The other buildings are of modern years; in the centre of the neat -dwelling-houses stands the hall, where various relics are preserved and -made into a raree-show, the only one that touched home to us being the -old collecting box, which was formerly hung up outside the gate so that -passers-by might drop in such coins as they cared to spare. Into this -box it is possible that Erasmus dropped his “consolation,” of which he -tells us in his description of his walk toward London with Colet, a -passage oft quoted but worth quoting again. “....those who journey to -London, not long after leaving Canterbury, find themselves in a road at -once very hollow and narrow, and moreover the banks on either side are -so steep and abrupt, that there is no possibility of escape; nor can the -journey be made by any other way. On the left hand of this road is a -hospital of a few old men, and as soon as they perceive any horsemen -approaching, one of them runs out, sprinkles him with holy water, and -presently offers the upper part of a shoe, bound with a brazen rim, and -set with a piece of glass resembling a jewel. People kiss this relic, -and give some small coin in acknowledgment.... As Cratian[7] rode on my -left hand, next to the hospital, he had his sprinkling of water; this he -put up with; but, when the shoe was held out, he asked the man what he -wanted. He said, that it was the shoe of St Thomas. On that my friend -was irritated, and turning to me he said, ‘What, do these brutes imagine -that we must kiss every good man’s shoe? Why, by the same rule, they -might offer his spittle to be kissed, or what else.’ For my part I -pitied the old man, and gave him a small piece of money by way of -consolation.... From such matters as cannot be at once corrected I am -accustomed to gather whatever good can be found in them.”[8] - -The foundation consists of a Master, nine Brethren (one of whom is Prior -and another sub-Prior), seven Sisters, and various Pensioners. - -We turn back as we go out of the picturesque gate and across the road to -the high footpath, and see that still the banks on either side are -steep and abrupt. We pass the parish church of St Mildred, and then, -descending the hill, there bursts upon us another grand view of -Canterbury, the Cathedral domineering over the city. “There are two vast -towers that seem to salute the visitor from afar, and make the -surrounding country far and wide resound with the wonderful booming of -their brazen bells,” so says Erasmus. The towers have changed since his -day, but to his eyesight as to ours the view must have been wonderfully -impressive; the more so in that as he stood there in this roadway, he -could realise as we never can what the sight of those towers meant to -the pilgrims who passed him by. He had been to that shrine, and his -broad mind, while contemplating some folly which he could not praise, -understood that beneath all this to which his companion so strongly -objected there lay much of good, and that a ruthless destruction of the -tares might prove disastrous also to the wheat. - -We soon pass by the opening--or rather the close--of the Pilgrims’ Way, -and stopping at the sexton’s house in London Road, obtain his guidance -to the church of St Dunstan, where there is much to see of interest. -Immediately inside the western porch, a door admits us to the ancient -lepers’ chapel, now used as a vestry, where those outcast folk could -join in the worship of the congregation by using the squint, now blocked -up with a cupboard. Here is an ancient chest, once on a time used for -the collection of Peter’s Pence; and the table, a fine piece of cabinet -work, is the old sounding-board. At the east end of the church is the -Roper Chapel, in the vault beneath lying buried Margaret Roper and the -head of Sir Thomas More, her father. To this chapel pilgrims still come, -and another form of reverence has been paid to the “martyr” by the -offers more than once made to purchase this unpleasant relic. When the -vault was opened in 1879, during the restoration of the church, the head -was found to be in a state of perfect preservation. - -On the opposite side of the roadway, a short distance farther on toward -the city, built into a brewery, is the red brick gateway of Roper -House--or Rooper, as it is spelled on the monument in the church--where -Margaret preserved the sad relic, which had first been exhibited on -London Bridge. - -And so back again to Canterbury. - - - - -ENVOI - - -Back again to Canterbury, where it is to be hoped our leisure will -permit us to loiter, or which our good fortune may allow us to visit -again and yet again. - -Canterbury sits between History and Romance, the chief city of one of -the most delightful and most interesting of English counties. Her -streets are thronged with memories, crowded with historic figures. -Romance and History mingle inextricably--Chaucer, Marlowe, Dickens; -Augustine, Becket, Cranmer. In these pages an endeavour has been made to -depict Canterbury and some of the surrounding country not with the pen -of the historian or of the archæologist, but to set forth rather the -personal impressions of a lover of old times, old ways and old books. -Christ Church Cathedral is to him no mere record in cold stone of a dead -past, but a living memorial of a living past. It is meant to be a book -for those who share with the writer his delight in calling up to the -mind’s eye ghosts of men and women dead and gone. - -At first, as has been said, Canterbury strikes disappointingly on those -who go thither thinking to step back straightway from the present into -the past. But gradually and surely the past overpowers the present as we -linger in its narrow streets and loiter in its ancient buildings. It is -no city of the dead. The life of to-day throbs in its veins; but its -to-day is dull, dim and uneventful compared with its stirring, -many-coloured past. - -These pages have touched upon many matters concerning which many volumes -have been, and will be, written; but no attempt has been made at -completeness. This book is not a guide, but rather aims at being a -sign-post--pointing to the past. For many years yet pilgrims will come -to Canterbury, and if this little work helps any of them to see and to -hear there what has been so vivid and so clear to the writer of it, the -object with which it is set forth will have been gained. - - - - -INDEX - -The Illustrations are printed in italics. - - - PAGE - -Aldhelm, Abbot, 100 - -Aldon, Thomas of, 29 - -Alford, Dean, 19, 37 - -Alfroin, 11 - -Alphege, 9 - -Angel Tower, 1 - -Anselm, 12 - -Arthur, Catherine, 90 - -Arundel, 43 - -Arundel, Archbishop, 17 - -Athol, Countess of, 40 - -Augustine, 97 - -Austin Canons’ priory of St Gregory, 68 - -Auxerre, Henry of, 47 - - -Baptistry, 45 - -Barton, Elizabeth, 80 - -Beale, Henry, 94 - -Beaufort, John, 38 - -Becket’s Murder, 46 - -Bell Harry Tower, 1 - -Bertha, 97 - -Bigberry Wood, 111 - -Bigge, Thomas, 109 - -Bocking, 86 - -Boehm, Sir Edgar, 37 - -Bourchier, Archbishop, 32 - -Boys, Sir John, 22 - -Bregwin, Archbishop, 100 - -Bret, 49 - -Broc, Robert de, 46 - -Butterfield, Mr, 101 - - -Canterbury College, Oxford, 68 - -Canterbury Pilgrims, 54 - -Canterbury, St Thomas of, 51 - -_Canterbury Weavers, The_, _92_ - -Canute, 99 - -Cathedral, The-- - _Baptistry, The_, _46_ - _Chapel of “Our Lady” in the Undercroft, The_, _18_ - _Christ Church Gate_, _4_ - _Edward the Black Prince’s Tomb_, _38_ - _Infirmary, The Ruins of_, _44_ - _Nave, The_, _22_ - _North Side, The_, _Frontispiece_ - _St Martin’s Church Tower and Harbledown_, _110_ - _Warrior’s Chapel, The_, _38_ - _West Towers and South-West Entrance, The_, _42_ - Exterior of, 41 - Interior of, 18 - The Story of, 7 - -Catherine, 84 - -Chaucer, Geoffrey, 54 - -“Chequers of the Hope”, 56 - -Chichele, Archbishop, 31 - -Chichele Tower, 43 - -Chillenden, Prior, 17, 18, 20, 38, 45 - -Christ Church, 8 - Gateway, 4 - Priory of, 57 - -Colet, 113 - -Coligny, Odo, 34 - -Conrad, 12 - -Cooper, Sidney, 111 - -Courtenay, Archbishop, 34 - -Cranmer, 84 - - -Dark Entry, 44 - -Denys of Burgundy, 71 - -Dunster, Lady Mohun of, 40 - -Durham, Rites of, 72 - - -East Bridge Hospital, 94 - -Edmer, 10 - -Edward III., 30 - -Edward the Black Prince, 32, 33 - -Elizabeth, 90 - -Emperor Charles V., 53 - -Envoi, 117 - -Erasmus, 19, 64, 113 - -Ernulf, 12, 35, 36, 39 - -Estria, Prior Henry de, 25 - -Ethelbert, King, 97 - - -First View of Canterbury, 1 - -Fitzstephen, William, 47 - -Fordwich, 106 - - -Gasquet, Abbot, 72 - -Gerard, 71 - -Gervase, 12, 26 - -Gibbons, Orlando, 22 - -Goldstone, Prior, 39, 42 - -Grandison, Bishop of Exeter, 36 - -Green Court, 45 - -_Greyfriars’ House, The_, _64_ - -Grim Edward, 46 - -Guest House Hostry, The, 72 - - -Hadley, 86 - -Harbledown, 110 - -Hasted, 63, 78 - -Henry IV., 34 - -Henry V., 31, 52 - -Henry VIII., 25, 35, 44, 52 - -Holland, Lady Margaret, 38 - -Holy Maid of Kent, 80 - -“Hope, Chequers of the”, 56 - -Hope, Mr A. J. Beresford, 101 - -Hospital, East Bridge, 94 - St John’s, 94 - -Howley, William, 31 - - -“Inglesant, John”, 74 - -Ingworth, Richard, 93 - - -Kemp, Cardinal, 31 - -Kent, Holy Maid of, 80 - -King’s School, 45 - - -Lanfranc, 10, 43, 104 - -Langton, Archbishop Stephen, 38 - -Lavatory Tower, 45 - -Lawrence, 99 - -Lindhard, 97 - -Louis VII., 51 - - -Magdalen College, Oxford, 70 - -Marlowe, Christopher, 4, 90 - John, 90 - -_Martyrdom, The_, _50_ - _Doorway from Cloisters into Westgate Towers_, _70_, _88_ - -Masters, 86 - -Maynard, John, 106 - -Mepham, Archbishop Simon de, 36 - -Molash, Prior, 42 - -Montreuil, Madame de, 62 - -More, Sir Thomas, 116 - -Morton, Cardinal, 40 - - -Navarre, Joan of, 34 - -_Norman Staircase, King’s School, Canterbury_, 48 - - -Odo, Archbishop, 8 - -Oxford Tower, 43 - - -Peckham, Archbishop, 39 - -Peter II., 32 - -Peter’s Pence, 116 - -Pole, Cardinal Archbishop, 35 - -Prince Consort, 32 - -Priory of Christ Church, 57 - - -Queen Mary, 35 - -Queen Victoria, 32 - - -Religious, The, 66 - -Richard Cœur de Lion, 52 - -Roger, 99 - -Roper, Margaret, 116 - -Roundabout, A Canterbury, 104 - -Ruskin, 42 - - -St Anselm, 36, 79 - -St Augustine, 43 - -St Augustine’s College, 96 - -_St Augustine’s College, In the Quadrangle_, 96 - -St Cuthbert, 100 - -St Dunstan, 27 - -St Ethelbert, 35 - -St Gregory, Austin Canons’ priory of, 68 - -St John’s Hospital, 94, 104 - -St Martin, 97, 102 - -_St Martin’s Church_, _102_ - -St Martin at Dover, 68 - -St Mildred, 99 - -St Pancras, 96 - -St Sepulchre, 79 - -St Thomas of Canterbury, 51 - -St Wilfrid, 11 - -Salisbury, John of, 47 - -Sens, William of, 16 - -Shrines, Other, 87 - -Simon, Archbishop of Sudbury, 17, 28, 91 - -Somerset, Earl of, 38 - -_South-West Transept and St George’s Tower_, _56_ - -Stanley, Dean, 22, 29, 58 - -Stratford, Archbishop, 30 - -Sturry, 105 - -Sudbury, Archbishop Simon of, 17, 28, 91 - -Summer, Archbishop, 22 - - -Tait, Archbishop, 37 - -Thackeray, 90 - -Thomas, Duke of Clarence, 38 - -Thwaites, 86 - -Tyler, Wat, 30 - - -Walter, Prior, 79 - -Warham, Archbishop, 27, 39 - -Warrior’s Chapel, 38 - -West Gate, 87 - -Wiclif, 34 - -William, Archbishop, 12 - -William of Sens, 16, 23 - -William, “English”, 16, 23, 32 - -Willis, 24 - -Winchelsea, Archbishop, 37, 80 - - PRINTED BY NEILL AND CO., LTD., EDINBURGH - - * * * * * - -THE CANTERBURY - -PILGRIMAGES - -BY - -H. SNOWDEN WARD - -AND - -CATHARINE WEED BARNES WARD - -_Containing 50 Full-page Illustrations from Photographs by Catharine W. -B. Ward_ - -_In One Volume, Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, Gilt top_ - -PRICE =6= SHILLINGS - - - “A capital book, dealing with Thomas of London, his murder, his - cult, and his miracles; with Geoffrey Chaucer and his pilgrims, and - with the Pilgrims’ Way. It is written in bright, breezy fashion. - The illustrations are numerous, and are very - interesting."--_Academy._ - - “There will be few of those who read Mr Ward’s delightful book and - study the beautiful photographs who will not come to the conclusion - that an ideal summer holiday might be spent in a walk along the - Pilgrims’ Way described."--_Morning Advertiser._ - - “This is a fragrant book, full of the freshness and greenness of - Southern England, and at the same time suggesting, with its many - illustrations of cathedral architecture, the sweet seclusion of a - bygone age. Its preparation has evidently been a labour of love, - and Mr Ward writes with an enthusiasm which is infectious."--_St - James’s Gazette._ - - “It furnishes exceedingly suggestive pictures of the England of the - twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries...."--_Sheffield - Independent._ - - “To those who take an interest in the ancient history of our - kingdom, and particularly so far as it bears upon religious - questions, and of the doings of those who in former days posed as - their exponents, this book must be one of absorbing interest.... It - is an arresting book upon one of the subjects which is ever - interesting to the student of ecclesiastical things."--_Newcastle - Chronicle._ - - PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. - - - - * * * * * - - THE - - INGOLDSBY COUNTRY - - _LITERARY LANDMARKS OF THE “INGOLDSBY LEGENDS"_ - - By CHARLES G. HARPER - - _Containing 90 Illustrations from Drawings by the Author_ - - _Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, Gilt top_ - - PRICE =6= SHILLINGS - - - “This quite admirable literary and artistic guide to the Ingoldsby - country."--_British Weekly._ - - “Canterbury, Barham’s birthplace, is the centre of this delightful - land, but Romney Marsh, Hythe, Folkestone, Ashford, and the Isle of - Sheppey find in turn a most sympathetic interpreter in Mr Harper, - both with pen and pencil, for the author is his own artist, and - many of his sketches are exceedingly well done."--_Daily - Telegraph._ - - “This is, in fact, another of the excellent road-books which pretty - nearly exhaust information for tourists of every taste."--_The - Times._ - - - - - THE - - DICKENS COUNTRY - - By F. G. KITTON - - _Containing 50 Full-page Illustrations from Photographs_ - - _Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, Gilt top_ - - PRICE =6= SHILLINGS - - - “The facts are so well marshalled and authenticated, that the - volume will take its place as the most reliable book of reference - on the subject. It is, in fact, a book that every student and - admirer of the great novelist will value."--_Daily Chronicle._ - - “It is seldom one comes across so complete and satisfactory a - work."--_The Bystander._ - - “Both text and pictures will yield pleasure to the very large - circle of the novelist’s admirers."--_The Globe._ - - PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] Edmer, who was a boy in the monastic school in the time of - Lanfranc, in _The Architectural History of Canterbury Cathedral_, by - Professor R. Willis, M.A., F.R.S., a work to which all subsequent - writers about Canterbury Cathedral owe a deep debt. - - [2] Willis, as quoted _supra_. - - [3] The curious in this affair should read Dr Edwin A. Abbot’s learned - _St Thomas of Canterbury: His Death and Miracles_ (A. & C. Black, - 1898), to which work the writer desires to express a deep debt of - gratitude. The account of the murder here given closely follows the - translation in the work mentioned. - - [4] The King of France’s jewel. - - [5] The _Canterbury Tales_ of Geoffrey Chaucer. Edited by Thomas - Wright for the Percy Society, 1851. Vol. iii., “The Supplementary - Tale.” - - [6] _Canterbury in the Olden Time_, John Brent, 1879. - - [7] Colet. - - [8] Erasmus, _Peregrinatio Religionis ergo_; trans. J. G. Nicholls. - - -Typographical error corrected by the etext transcriber: - -shryne as Sainct Thomas’s bed=> shryne as Sainct Thomas’s hed {pg 63} - - - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by W. 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