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diff --git a/old/53136-0.txt b/old/53136-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2cd6c5c..0000000 --- a/old/53136-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1980 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Fig Culture, by Gustav Eisen and Franklin Sumner Earle - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Fig Culture - Edible Figs: Their Culture and Curing. Fig Culture in the United States. - -Author: Gustav Eisen - Franklin Sumner Earle - -Release Date: September 23, 2016 [EBook #53136] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIG CULTURE *** - - - - -Produced by MWS, ellinora and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - - Obvious spelling and punctuation errors corrected. - - Inconsistencies in spelling and capitalization left as in the original. - - Italic text is represented by underscores surrounding the _italic - text_. - - Small capitals in the original have been converted to ALL CAPS in the - text. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - -BULLETIN NO. 5. - - U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. - - DIVISION OF POMOLOGY. - - FIG CULTURE. - - EDIBLE FIGS: THEIR CULTURE AND CURING. - - By GUSTAV EISEN, - - Curator in Biology, California Academy of Sciences, - San Francisco, Cal. - - - FIG CULTURE IN THE GULF STATES. - - By FRANK S. EARLE, - - Horticulturist, Alabama Experiment Station, Auburn, Ala. - - [Illustration: - UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE - 1862 1889 - AGRICULTURE IS - THE FOUNDATION OF MANUFACTURE - AND COMMERCE] - - WASHINGTON: - GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. - 1897. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. - - - U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, - - DIVISION OF POMOLOGY, - - _Washington, D. C., January 30, 1897._ - -SIR: I have the honor to transmit herewith, and to recommend for -publication as a bulletin of this division, articles on “Edible figs: -their culture and curing,” by Dr. Gustav Eisen, of San Francisco, Cal., -and “Fig culture in the Gulf States,” by Frank S. Earle, of Auburn, Ala. - -The climatic conditions of the sections of the United States in which -figs can be successfully grown are so widely different that it has been -deemed advisable to publish these papers as one bulletin, in order that -a comprehensive presentation of the subject may be within reach of those -interested in this industry. - - S. B. HEIGES, _Pomologist_. - -Hon. J. STERLING MORTON, - - _Secretary of Agriculture_. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - Page. - EDIBLE FIGS: THEIR CULTURE AND CURING. (By Gustav Eisen.) 5 - Nature and structure of the flowers and fruit of the fig 5 - Classification of varieties of edible figs 6 - Varieties of figs found useful in California 7 - Caprification 10 - Climate suitable for fig culture 10 - Figs for drying 10 - Figs for table use 11 - Figs for preserving, canning, and home consumption 11 - Soil 11 - Propagation 12 - Seedlings 13 - Budding and grafting 13 - Planting 14 - Double trees 14 - Standard trees 15 - Pruning 15 - Drying and curing 16 - Picking 16 - Sulphuring 17 - Dipping fresh figs 17 - Drying on trays 18 - Degree of dryness 19 - Sweating and equalizing 19 - Artificial drying 19 - Packing 20 - Dipping 20 - Assorting 20 - Pulling 20 - Packing 21 - Pressing 21 - FIG CULTURE IN THE GULF STATES. (By Frank S. Earle.) 23 - Propagation 23 - Soil and location 24 - Cultivation and fertilization 25 - Insect enemies and diseases 26 - Fig-tree borer 26 - Fig-leaf mite 27 - Root knot 27 - Fig-leaf rust 27 - Fig Cercospora 27 - Die back 28 - Root rot 28 - Varieties 28 - List of figs recommended by American Pomological Society 29 - Uses 29 - Marketing fresh figs 30 - Canning factories 31 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - FIG CULTURE. - - - - - EDIBLE FIGS: THEIR CULTURE AND CURING. - By GUSTAV EISEN. - - -The edible figs cultivated in the United States both for eating fresh -and for drying all belong to one species, _Ficus carica_. Of this -species there are now described about 400 varieties which are -sufficiently distinct to be considered by the student and the practical -horticulturist. The intending planter should study the character of the -varieties more closely than has hitherto been customary in this country, -though his safest plan is, of course, to plant in quantity only such -varieties as have proved valuable in his own locality, or where soil and -climate are similar. - - - NATURE AND STRUCTURE OF THE FLOWERS AND FRUIT OF THE FIG. - -Before we consider these different varieties, a few remarks on the -nature and structure of the fruit are necessary. The fig which we eat is -really a receptacle, on the surface of which are situated the numerous -flowers. But as this surface is concave, or curved inwardly, like the -hollow of a closed hand, the flowers can not be seen except when the fig -is cut. Then it becomes apparent that the chamber formed by the curved -receptacle communicates with the outside by means of the “eye” at its -apex. In some varieties the “eye” is almost closed, opening only when -the fig has reached a certain age; in others it is so large that a pea -could easily pass through. The flowers are always more or less fleshy, -are generally imperfect, and do not much resemble the bright flowers of -other fruit trees and plants in our gardens. There are four distinct -kinds of fig flowers, but these are not always found in a single fig, in -fact they are rarely all found together. They are designated as follows: - -_Male flowers._—These possess four pollen-producing stamens. They are -found only in the wild or “caprifig,” the ancestor of our cultivated -figs, and in a very few varieties of edible figs. - -_Female flowers._—These possess a single style, stigma, and ovary, and -when fertilized, produce seeds. Owing to the absence of male flowers, or -the failure of the male and female flowers in the same fig to mature at -the same time, they rarely produce fertile seeds unless fertilized by -pollen carried by insects. - -_Gall flowers._—These are degenerate female flowers which do not produce -seeds, the abortive ovary serving only for the habitation and breeding -place of a very small wasp, the _Blastophaga_, which is used in -caprification. The gall flowers are found only in the original wild fig. - -_Mule flowers._—These are imperfect female flowers, incapable of -producing seeds or of affording a breeding place for the wasp. These -flowers are found to the exclusion of all others in most of our -cultivated figs. - -Because of these differences in the flowers the numerous varieties of -edible figs may be divided into tribes or subspecies. These are as -follows: - - - CLASSIFICATION OF VARIETIES OF EDIBLE FIGS. - -_Caprifigs_ (_goat figs or wild figs_).—These figs grow wild in southern -Europe, northern Africa, and western Asia, and have been recently -introduced into California. They bear all the kinds of flowers except -the _mule_ flowers, and as they are the only figs bearing _male_ flowers -they are essential in all fig districts where mature and fertile seeds -are of importance, or in other words, where caprification is necessary. - -_Smyrna figs._—These are grown only in the Smyrna district of Asia -Minor. They have only female flowers, and neither these latter nor the -receptacle on which they grow will come to any maturity without -caprification or pollination. So-called Smyrna figs, which have been -bought of nurserymen, have generally proved spurious, as, unlike the -true Smyrna figs, they mature their fruit without pollination. Of late -years true Smyrna figs have been planted in California, but they have -failed to ripen fruit except when artificially pollinated. These will -not produce ripe fruit in commercial quantities until caprification can -be practiced, and neither these nor the caprifig should be planted at -the present time, except for experimental purposes. - -_Common edible figs._—These are the common varieties of our orchards, -which bear fruit and mature it with regularity without pollination or -caprification. They bear two crops a year, the “early figs” or “brebas,” -and the later or “summer figs.” Of this tribe alone there are some 400 -varieties described more or less perfectly, and probably as many more -undescribed and unknown. - -_San Pedro figs._—This tribe contains only a few dozen varieties, some -of which are cultivated in California, and also in Florida and other -Southern States. They are characterized by maturing only the first crop -or “brebas.” The second crop always drops before reaching maturity. The -cause of this is that the first crop contains only “mule flowers,” like -those of the common figs, while the second contains only “female -flowers,” like those of the Smyrna figs. - -The San Pedro tribe of fig varieties is specially valuable on account of -the large size and early maturity of the “brebas” or first crop. They -should, therefore, be planted only in places where it is desirable to -grow large, early figs, for marketing fresh. They do not succeed -everywhere, as they require a warm and early spring climate. - -In tropical countries there are numerous varieties of other species of -figs growing wild. Many of them are edible, but all are less palatable -than our edible fig, and with the exception of the Sycomore fig, _Ficus -sycomorus_, of Africa, are of no economic importance except as food for -animals. - -For this purpose, however, they are very useful, and the Sycomore fig -should be introduced into the Southern States, where it would probably -thrive in frost-free localities. - - - VARIETIES OF FIGS FOUND USEFUL IN CALIFORNIA. - -The existing confusion regarding the names of the varieties of the fig -is largely due to incomplete descriptions. The following points are of -importance in every fig description, and should always be noted: Size, -form, neck, stalk, ribs, eye, color of skin, color of pulp, seeds, -quality, growth, and leaf. In order to simplify descriptions, these -points should always be mentioned in the same order. It is also of great -importance to note whether the first crop alone matures fruit, and -whether the two crops differ materially in any of the above-mentioned -points. - -Of the 400 or more described varieties of figs, comparatively few have -been tested in the United States. Most of those tested are French or -hot-house varieties, very few southern or Mediterranean figs having been -introduced, though many of the latter are worthy of testing in this -country. - -A few of the varieties that have been found most useful in California -are described: - -ADRIATIC.—Size medium, roundish; neck medium, stalk short; ribs obscure; -eye open, with red iris; skin very thin, greenish in the shade, -yellowish in the sun; pulp bright strawberry red or with violet streaks -in the meat; varies in quality according to location. - -This has been found very useful in California, but is not of fine flavor -when dried. It requires rich soil, with considerable moisture and a very -large percentage of lime. This variety is _not_ identical with that -known in Italy as Adriatic. - -ANGELIQUE (syn. _Angelica_).—Medium, pyriform; ribs prominent, yellowish -white; pulp white with rose-colored center; leaves five-lobed. A very -good variety in some of the coast valleys. - -ATHENES (syn. _Marseillaise_).—Small, roundish or turbinate, with -indistinct ribs, depressed at apex, skin rough; color whitish yellow, -pulp red, opaline; very sweet and one of the best drying figs both in -France and California. - -BOURJASSOTTE, BLACK (syn. _Barnissotte, Black_).—Medium, broader than -long, flattened at apex, with no neck and an uneven cheek; ribs -distinct, even; eye small, sunk, closed; skin waxy, black with violet -blush; bloom clear blue, wanting at apex; meat pink, pulp blood-red. A -most excellent fig for table. It requires rich, moist soil. - -BOURJASSOTTE, WHITE (syn. _Barnissotte, White_).—A fig related to the -former, but larger; eye large, sunk; skin waxy, green; pulp bright red. -A very fine fig. Tree very large. - -BROWN TURKEY.—Large, turbinate, pyriform, with hardly distinct neck; -stalk short; apex flattened; ribs few, slightly elevated; eye medium, -slightly open, scales large; skin smooth, greenish to violet-brown in -sun, with darker ribs; pulp dark, rosy red, quality good, and tree a -good bearer. Brunswick is frequently confounded with this fig. - -BRUNSWICK.—Very large, pyriform, with swollen cheeks, one of which is -larger than the other; apex very obtuse; neck and stalk very short; ribs -distinct, but not much elevated; eye medium, open; skin pale amber with -violet tint; pulp amber. An early, large fig, but with no flavor. Very -common; requires rich, moist soil. - -CELESTE, BLUE (syn. _Violette_).—Small, ovate, turbinate; ribs few, but -distinct, especially near apex; eye raised, rough; color dark, violet -amber, without reddish blush; bloom confined to the neck; skin thin; -pulp deep rose; meat amber; sweet, but lacking in flavor. - -DOTTATO.—Medium ovate, pyriform; neck well set; stalk very short or -none; ribs low; skin smooth; eye medium; skin thin, yellowish green; -meat white; pulp yellowish amber, sometimes with violet flush. One of -the best figs for drying; tree a strong grower, requiring moist, rich -soil. Lately introduced into California. - -DRAP D’OR.—Large, pyriform, with very low neck and stalk; ribs elevated; -apex obtuse and concave; color light, violet, reddish amber, not dark; -pulp rosy red. A fig of very fine quality, especially useful for -confections and crystallizing; not identical with Brunswick. - -DU ROI.—Above medium; round, pyriform; stalk very short; eye large or -variable, with scales standing out; skin smooth, pale bluish green; pulp -amber, with rosy streaks and exceedingly minute seeds. Related to -Marseillaise and Athenes, and one of the very best figs in California -for drying. - -EARLY VIOLET.—Small to very small, round, turbinate; neck distinct but -short; stalk medium to long; ribs distinct, elevated, skin rough; -violet-brown, with thin, pearl-colored bloom; pulp red. This variety -bears almost continuously and is preferable to the Ischias and Celeste. - -GENOA, WHITE.—Above medium, pyriform; neck small; stalk short; ribs -indistinct; skin downy; eye very small; skin pale olive-green; pulp pale -rose. One of the better figs, quite distinct from Marseillaise. - -GENTILE.—Very large; ovate pyriform; neck short but distinct; stalk very -short; skin uneven, with ridges; eye very large, open, with projecting -scales; color greenish yellow spotted with white; pulp amber, streaked -with rose; seeds few but very large. Only the first crop of this variety -ripens. It is of the San Pedro tribe. One of the best early figs. - -GROSSE GRISE BIFÈRE.—Medium, ovate pyriform; neck very short, stalk -short; ribs distinct; eye small; skin downy, dark violet amber, pale -olive in shade; the bloom is separated by a distinct line from the apex; -pulp deep red. A tender, good fig. - -ISCHIA, BLACK.—Small; neck short; stalk medium; skin smooth; color dark, -violet black, greenish around the apex; neck dark; eye medium, open; -bloom thin, dark blue; pulp red. Of fair quality but small size. - -ISCHIA, WHITE.—Size below medium, round, with small neck; stalk very -short; eye open; skin smooth, bluish green with brown flush; pulp rosy -red. Common in California, but hardly worthy of cultivation in that -State. - -MAGDALEN.—Below medium; round; ribs distinct, rough, disappearing around -the eye; stalk longer than the fig; eye open, large; skin greenish -yellow; pulp amber white. A very delicious fig, superior to the Ischias -and Celeste; not synonymous with Angelique. - -MARSEILLAISE, LONG.—Large, longer than wide; skin thick with brownish -shade; pulp dull red. Requires moist soils. A fair fig which dries well; -not related to either Black or White Marseillaise. - -MARSEILLAISE, WHITE.—Medium ovate, pyriform; neck short; stalk medium; -ribs numerous and distinct; apex flattened; eye large, open; skin downy, -pale yellowish green, mottled with white; pulp amber, with a few large -seeds. One of the best figs for drying. Requires sandy, rich soil. - -MISSION, BLACK.—Medium to large, turbinate; neck long; stalk short; ribs -distinct; eye prominent, open; skin rough, deep mahogany violet, with a -red flush; pulp not fine, red, but not bright or brownish amber; sweet -but not high-flavored; common in the Southern States, California, and -Mexico. The oldest fig in this country. - -MONACO BIANCO (syn. _White Monaco_).—Large, rounded, turbinate, -flattened; neck small but very distinct; ribs numerous; eye very open; -skin dark, bluish green with thin bloom; pulp dark-red rose; a most -excellent fig for table; one of the best in California. - -PASTILIÈRE.—Large, 3 inches by 1½; elongated, pyriform with long neck; -stalk short; eye closed, surrounded by an elevated iris; skin rough, -hairy, with blue bloom; pulp red. Fine for preserves. - -RONDE NOIRE.—Large, round, but irregular; neck distinct, short; eye -small; skin smooth, waxy, dark violet brown; pulp amber. Greatly to be -recommended as a table fig. It is not related to Black Ischia or Osborn -Prolific. - -SAN PEDRO, BLACK.—Very large, elongated ovate, with no stalk, but with -well set neck; skin smooth, violet black with green neck; pulp red, -coppery, tinted violet. For table use. The largest fig known. It is not -related to the following variety: - -SAN PEDRO, WHITE (syn. _Brebas_).—Very large, round, flattened at apex; -stalk and neck short; eye open; skin thick, tender, of a bright yellow -color or greenish in the shade, without bloom; pulp amber. A remarkable -and handsome fig. Only the first crop matures without caprification. -Suited only for table use. Requires moist, rich soil. - -VERDAL, ROUND.—Below medium, round pyriform, without stalk or neck; skin -smooth, waxy, bluish green; eye closed; pulp dark, blood red. A small -fig, but valuable for canning and preserves; better than the Ischias or -Celeste. It does well in the Santa Clara Valley, but is inferior in the -interior of the State. - - - CAPRIFICATION. - -This process must be practiced wherever the Smyrna figs are grown, for -without it they will not mature either seeds or figs. The flowers of the -Smyrna figs are all pistillate and require pollination, which in the -case of these varieties can be effected on a large scale only through -caprification. The process consists in the suspension of wild caprifigs, -which possess staminate and gall flowers, in the Smyrna fig trees, when -the pistils in the blossoms of the latter are in a receptive condition. -A minute wasp, the _Blastophaga_, breeds in the caprifig in large -numbers, and on leaving it crawls into the Smyrna fig, covered with the -pollen of the caprifig. This pollen, transferred by contact from the -body of the wasp to the receptive stigmas of the flowers in the Smyrna -figs, effects the fertilization of the ovules of those flowers and -causes them to form seeds and mature the fruit of which they are a part. -These seeds impart a nutty aroma and flavor to the fig when dried, and -give it a marked superiority to our common figs. Caprification is not -yet practiced in the United States, the wasp not existing here, though -both it and some of the Smyrna figs have been brought to this country -several times. The first importation of Smyrna fig trees was made by -Gulian P. Rixford, about 1880, when three varieties of Smyrna figs and a -single caprifig tree were introduced. - - - CLIMATE SUITABLE FOR FIG CULTURE. - -A native of a semitropical climate, the fig requires a similar climate -to attain perfection. Many horticultural varieties, however, have -originated in temperate regions, and these can be grown with profit in a -climate much colder than that of the habitat of the wild fig. Figs, in -fact, may be grown in all regions where peaches and apricots succeed -without protection, and if given winter protection they can be -profitably grown in such regions near large cities which furnish a -market for the fresh fruit at profitable prices. - -In considering the suitability of the climate of a region for fig -culture, the purpose for which the figs are to be grown must be first -determined. - -Figs may be grown for drying, for canning and preserving, for sale in -the fresh state, or for general home consumption. As the conditions and -treatment necessary to produce fruit suited to these different uses vary -considerably, each subject will be discussed separately. - - - FIGS FOR DRYING. - -The best dried figs are produced in warm countries, such as the -Mediterranean region of Europe, Asia Minor, Upper and Lower California, -but especially in Asia Minor, in the valleys near Smyrna. The conditions -of climate there are as follows: The days are moderately warm, the -temperature seldom exceeding 90° F. These conditions prevail during the -summer, while the figs are growing and ripening. The winter is seldom -frosty. The winter climate, however, is of less importance, provided it -is not cold enough to injure the young figs or the tips of the branches. -Such frosts will not injure the second crop, which is used for drying, -but it is a great drawback to the wild fig and to the fig insects, which -are necessary to the maturing of the fruit of certain varieties of -drying figs. The summer climate is almost rainless, while in winter -there are abundant rains. The air in summer is not a dry, desert air, -however, but carries considerable moisture. The moisture of the air is -an important point, as in a very dry air the figs do not develop high -flavor, but are “flat” in taste. During the drying season there should -be little or no rain. - - - FIGS FOR TABLE USE. - -Figs are grown for the table as far north as Paris, in France, and in -the south of England. - -They may be similarly grown in most of the Middle States of the United -States. In England figs are grown against walls as dwarf trees or -shrubs, and the trees are covered with mats during the winter. In the -vicinity of Paris the trees are dwarfed and grown as “suckers,” which -are bent to the ground in winter and covered with several feet of soil. -Only certain varieties are suitable for this culture, which, however, is -very profitable. The figs produced are all “first crop” figs, and are as -a rule of superior quality. - - - FIGS FOR PRESERVING, CANNING, AND HOME CONSUMPTION. - -Except in the most favored localities in the Southern States and -California, these are the uses to which American-grown figs must be -devoted. To produce fruit suitable for these purposes, freedom from -fogs, from summer rains, and from spring frosts is essential. If there -is a choice of locality, a warm southern or eastern exposure is to be -preferred. The soil should be well drained, never swampy, and the -locality should not be exposed to heavy winds. Elevated bottom lands or -benches along creeks are the most favorable localities for figs. Large -plains, swampy places, or exposed hillsides are all unfavorable. The -nearer the conditions approach those of the Smyrna region the better. -Rains during the fruiting season are frequently injurious to figs, -causing them to crack and sour. Still, the fruit may be profitably grown -where moderate summer rains occur. - - - SOIL. - -All varieties of figs do not require the same kind of soil. Most of -them, however, must have a warm, moist, but not wet soil. A very few -varieties thrive in a poor, gravelly soil, but most kinds require a -deep, rich loam, containing a considerable percentage of lime, in order -to produce superior figs. A moderate proportion of gravel tends to keep -the soil warm and is desirable, but the soil must be rich. - - - PROPAGATION. - -The fig tree is easily propagated by the methods commonly practiced with -fruit trees. It may be budded or grafted, but is most readily grown from -cuttings. These may be planted where the trees are to stand or rooted in -the nursery rows and transplanted later to the orchard site. Which -method is advisable for any particular site depends upon the conditions -there. If the soil and climatic conditions of the proposed location are -favorable to the uninterrupted growth of cuttings, it is better and -cheaper to plant them directly in the field. If there is any doubt on -these points, or if the proper care and attention can not be given them, -the better plan is to plant trees with good roots and well-formed heads, -grown under favorable conditions by a nurseryman. The best time for -making cuttings is after the leaves have fallen, when the fig tree is -comparatively dormant. Cuttings may be made of either one year or two -year old wood. If the cuttings are to be planted where they can remain, -2-year-old wood is preferable, as longer cuttings can be secured, but if -they are to be planted in nursery, yearling wood is best. In either case -the wood when freshly cut should disclose a moist surface, covered with -small, whitish, milky drops. If dry when cut, it should be discarded. -The length of the cutting must be regulated by the condition of the -soil. If this is moist and likely to remain so the cuttings may be 12 to -18 inches long. If the surface soil is dry, the cutting should be -sufficiently long to have its lower end in moist soil. On very dry soils -this may require a cutting 3 or 4 feet in length, though such long -cuttings are rarely needed, and in no case except when they are to be -planted directly in the orchard. In making the cuttings care should be -observed that the lower cut be made just below a joint or node and the -upper one just above a joint. The best cutting is one which terminates -in a bud and has a smooth, clean cut just below a joint at its base. No -matter what the length of the cutting, it should always be planted so -deeply that but one joint protrudes above the surface of the soil. This -will prevent the drying out of the cutting by the action of sun and -wind. It is better to have the top bud covered with earth than to leave -a high stump projecting above the surface. - -Fig trees may be grown from single eyes or short tips, in boxes filled -with moist sand, set in frames and covered with cloth to keep the soil -moist and cool. These will make fine trees in time, but they generally -require to be a year older than those grown from large cuttings before -they are suitable for planting in orchard. Great care should be -exercised in removing fig cuttings or plants from one place to another. -They dry out readily and a few moments’ exposure to the sun or hot, dry -wind will seriously damage them. They should never be allowed to become -dry, and should be wrapped in wet sacks or cloths as soon as taken from -the trees or from the propagating bed. Cuttings partially dry may be -revived by soaking in water, but fig roots once dry are dead and -incapable of restoration to life. - - - SEEDLINGS. - -Seedling figs are easily grown from seeds of imported Smyrna figs. These -Smyrna figs always possess germinable seeds, as they have been -pollinated. It is quite safe to say that any seedling fig so far -recorded in this country has originated from seeds of Smyrna figs -imported from Asia Minor. The seeds of our common figs are mere shells -without germs, and will of course fail to grow. The percentage of trees -producing fruit of high quality among seedlings grown from Smyrna figs -is very small, however, and a commercial orchard planted with such -seedlings would be a failure. The grower may now and then produce a -variety which will repay his efforts, and such variety can be propagated -for general planting. - - - BUDDING AND GRAFTING. - -The fig may be propagated by shield budding, provided the work is done -at the proper time. That time is winter, when the tree is as near -dormant as it can be found. Budding is rarely resorted to, however, as -it is an uncertain method when done by persons without skill. Grafting -the fig is successfully practiced in California by a method invented by -Mr. John Rock. It is the only method of fig grafting that has proved -reliable, practical, and of real value there. By means of it, new -varieties are brought into heavy bearing within three years after -grafting on old trees. In addition to this saving of time, the usual -advantages resulting from grafting, such as better and stronger stock, -more vigorous growth, etc., may also be attained. - -The best time for grafting the fig is autumn or winter, when the sap is -most sluggish. Late spring grafting is less successful. The best scions -are made of 2-year-old wood. The sloping end of the scion must be -wedge-shape, tapering from front to back as well as from the top of the -cut to the bottom. But one surface of the wedge should show the pith, -and this surface should face toward the center of the stock when the -scion is set. Incipient fruit buds should be cut away without injuring -the scion. The scion should be so placed that the broad side of the -wedge will be outside and the narrow edge toward the center of the -stock. - -For the stock, any limb from 2 to 4 inches in diameter may be used. This -should be cut off squarely at the point to be grafted. A downward cut -should then be made with a chisel, in such a way that it shall be -tangential to the circular stub. It must not pass through the pith of -the stub. The cut should run somewhat obliquely downward and outward, in -order that the stock may not be split. The scion, which is about 3 or 4 -inches long, must, when inserted, form an angle with the long diameter -[pith] of the stock branch on which it is grafted. - -It is best to place two scions on each branch grafted. These should be -on opposite sides of the stub and they should lean slightly toward each -other. The exposed surfaces of the stock and scion should then be -heavily waxed and the scions should be held in place by binding with -cord or other material. It is best to place a large number of scions on -one tree. Four or five branches may be cut off and grafted, but one or -two should be left uncut for a year to draw the sap. A large stake -should be driven into the ground near each branch grafted, and when the -scions have started the new growth should be secured to the stakes to -prevent them from breaking off. The trunk and main limbs of the fig tree -should be covered with bundles of straw to prevent sunburn. The -after-treatment of the new growth is similar to that required in the -grafting of other fruit trees. The new growth is strong and rapid and -the connection with the stock perfect. Ninety per cent of the grafts may -be readily made to grow. - - - PLANTING. - -The proper distance to be given fig trees in the orchard depends upon -the size and habit of the variety to be planted. The smaller kinds -require 25 feet; the larger ones should be 50 feet apart in every -direction. Sometimes other fruit trees are planted between the figs and -allowed to remain until the latter become so large that they require the -entire space. The fig tree requires an abundance of air and sunshine to -mature its fruit, and it is therefore absolutely necessary that the -trees be so arranged that they shall not shade one another. After the -distance is decided, the laying out and planting require the same -general skill, labor, and methods used in planting other permanent -orchards. A few points in planting are peculiar to the fig, however, and -require special consideration. - - - DOUBLE TREES. - -Trees may be set singly, as standards, in the way commonly practiced -with other fruit trees, or they may be set “double”—that is, two trees -planted together in one hole and allowed to remain. The latter method -has not heretofore been advocated in this country but is worthy of -thorough trial. The method consists in planting two long cuttings, about -12 inches apart, in the same hole, allowing them to protrude from the -ground a few inches. Both are allowed to grow and the two are treated as -a single tree with two stems or standards. The object sought is to -produce two distinct stems or trunks, in order that the splitting down -of branches may be prevented. In this way trees with low, sloping -branches, having their main trunks leaning outward, will be formed and -it will be impossible for the trunks, the main branches, or the smaller -ones to split down. Branches split only when they point upward or stand -straight out—never when they slope downward from the trunk. - - - STANDARD TREES. - -These may be planted in the usual way, but great care must be taken in -shading the roots while the trees are being planted. After they are set, -the trunks should be shaded by wrapping them with paper bags or other -material, as a sun-burnt tree will never regain its health or bear -profitably. Standard trees should only be set for ornament or shade, and -even for these purposes the double trees are preferable. The fig tree -naturally branches near the ground, and the only way to successfully -imitate this habit in cultivation is to plant by the double-tree method. - - - PRUNING. - -The pruning of the fig varies according to the age of the trees and the -purpose for which pruning is done. While other fruit trees require -yearly, and generally heavy, pruning to insure fruit of good quality, -the object in pruning the fig is simply, or at least principally, to -keep the tree healthy and give air and light to the fruit. The most -important rule to be observed in pruning the fig is that no branch shall -be cut off squarely or be cut back so as to leave a stump. This is -almost surely fatal to the future welfare of the tree and to the quality -and quantity of its fruit. When it becomes necessary to remove a -1-year-old limb the cut should be made at least as far down as the next -fork below, and it should be close to a joint in the fork. There should -be nothing left but a scar to show that a limb has been cut away. There -must be no stump left. The fig tree may require to have its branches -thinned out, but it must not be headed back except to correct -unsymmetrical growth. In dense trees branches which cross should be -removed entirely and in such a way as to give the tree a rounded, -dome-like outline, with the lower branches nearly touching the ground. -In pruning recently planted trees the object in view is, of course, -entirely different, as fruit can not be expected for several years to -come. The object of this early pruning is to shape the tree. When two -cuttings are set together little pruning is required, as they will -generally shape themselves and form two main trunks diverging from each -other, but when a single tree is planted it is best to cut back the stem -to within a foot of the soil and let it branch from that point. The only -case in which it is proper to have a tall standard is when it is -desirable to grow trees for shade and pleasure and where the quality of -the fruit and its quantity are of but secondary importance. If recently -planted fig trees show any tendency toward drying out, the main limbs or -the whole trunk should at once be cut back to live green wood. - - - DRYING AND CURING. - -The drying and curing of figs must necessarily differ in different -countries, under different conditions, and for different purposes. For -home consumption little skill and care are required to produce a -palatable and useful article of diet, while figs intended for shipment -must be more carefully dried, cured, and packed in order to command a -fair price in competition with the imported article. - -The fig is mature and ready to dry only when it has attained its proper -size and is palatable for eating fresh. When the crop has reached this -stage it may be gathered and dried for home consumption, but in order to -produce a superior article the figs must be as sweet as possible and -very pulpy. Too often do we find figs in the market consisting of -nothing but skin and empty seeds, without sweetness, flavor, or pulp. -Figs do not ripen all at one time, and the trees must be gone over -daily, in order that only the ripest shall be gathered. Before being -picked the fig should be soft to the touch; it should be wrinkled, and -should hang downward. Some kinds when ripe show white seams or cracks in -the flesh. This is generally a sign of complete maturity. Figs will not -ripen after picking and never become sweeter than when cut from the -tree. Similarly, figs which have once attained their full maturity do -not improve and should be dried at once. If allowed to hang longer on -the tree they may quickly rot, sour, or mold, and soon become unfit for -use. In order to compete with the best imported figs, our figs intended -for drying should be very sweet; in fact, the sweeter the better. When -freshly cut they should contain 35 per cent of sugar and when dried -about 55 per cent. For home consumption they do not need to be so sweet -as this, for any palatable figs are useful when carefully dried. - - - PICKING. - -Figs to be dried should never be shaken from the trees, for if bruised -and injured they will sour during the drying and become unfit for use. A -few figs spoiled in this way will check or prevent the sale of a box of -fruit that is in other respects good. Pulling the figs from the trees -will also injure them in a similar way. The ripe figs should therefore -be cut from the tree with a knife or shears and carefully placed in -boxes or trays. Of course, many half-dried figs that drop from the trees -may be utilized, but they should first be examined to determine whether -they are in good condition, and they must be freed from soil and sand. -Our figs do not, as a rule, drop at perfect maturity, but either before -or after it. Only the Smyrna figs drop when fully ripe. - -For the higher growing varieties a convenient instrument called the “fig -cutter” may be used. It consists of a forked stick across which has been -nailed a strip of tin plate. Below this is a small bag kept open by a -wire. With this “cutter” the higher figs may be reached by running the -fork up under the fig, severing it from the branch and causing it to -drop into the bag below. - - - SULPHURING. - -Of late years sulphuring figs before drying has become a very common -practice among growers. It consists in exposing fresh fruit to the fumes -of burning sulphur in air-tight tray holders of varying sizes. The -sulphur fumes cause the figs to become semitransparent when dried, and -to present an attractive appearance to the buyer. But nothing is more -deceptive, for this very handsome appearance hides a more than worthless -interior, not only detestable to the taste but also injurious to the -health of the consumer. Few persons will buy such fruit a second time. -Besides giving a semitransparent appearance to the fruit, the sulphuring -prevents fermentation of the figs while drying. This, of course, is of -value, and in fact is the only advantage in the process. A short and -light sulphuring may therefore be admissible with varieties which -otherwise would not dry and cure without souring. - -For convenience, the box in which the figs are to be sulphured should -not be more than 5 feet high nor more than 7 or 8 feet wide. This will -admit two trays abreast. The trays slide on a rack or on a cleat nailed -to the sides of the box, and need not be farther apart than just -sufficient to clear each other when charged with a single layer of figs. -The door must be air-tight, in order that the sulphur fumes may not -escape. Two feet of space should be left between the bottom tray and the -sulphur pan. The latter, a heavy piece of sheet iron, is heated, but not -to redness, and placed on noncombustible supports in the bottom of the -box. Two handfuls of sulphur are thrown upon this iron and when it is -burning the doors are tightly closed. Exposure to the sulphur fumes for -fifteen minutes is sufficient to prevent fermentation during the drying -process and leave the figs with a minimum of sour taste. If sulphured -longer they become too acid. After removal from the box the figs should -be immediately exposed to the sun. Black figs should never be sulphured. - - - DIPPING FRESH FIGS. - -Instead of being sulphured to improve their color and soften their -skins, figs may be dipped into a hot solution of salt or saltpeter, or -even lye. Unless, however, they are immersed for a long time this -dipping will rarely prevent fermentation, though it will prove -advantageous in other ways. Figs with a rough and tough skin are -especially benefited, the principal effect of the dipping being to -soften the skin. But this dipping should be practiced only on figs of -inferior quality, the best grades not being improved either by dipping -or sulphuring. - -In dipping, the figs should first be placed in a perforated bucket and -rinsed in cold water, to free them from dust. They should then be -transferred to a kettle containing boiling lye, made of 1 pound of -potash to 10 gallons of water. An immersion of from one-fourth minute to -one minute suffices; the time being regulated according to the size of -the figs and the pliability and thickness of the skin. Boiling salt -water may be substituted for the lye water for the dipping of some figs, -different varieties requiring different solutions to secure the desired -result. After dipping, the figs are dried without rinsing. If salt or -saltpeter is used instead of lye, 1½ pounds of either to 50 gallons of -water is a proper quantity. Lye is generally used, but the writer -prefers salt or saltpeter, either of which gives good results as regards -pliability of skin, while the salty taste generally improves the flavor. - - - DRYING ON TRAYS. - -For convenience in handling, wooden or paper trays are commonly used for -drying figs in the Western States. By their use the fruit can easily be -stacked and sheltered in wet weather. The trays are of various sizes, -but a small size, such as 2½ feet by 3½ feet, or 3½ feet by 4 feet, is -preferable, as when filled with fruit it can easily be handled by one -man, while a larger size requires two men. The drying ground should be a -clean space outside the orchard, where the trays may be exposed to the -uninterrupted rays of the sun. The figs require all the sunshine -obtainable, and the drying ground must therefore be free from the shade -of trees or buildings. The drying floor may consist simply of beds of -soil elevated a foot above the general level. A drying floor 4 feet wide -may be raised 8 inches additionally along one side. The slope toward the -sun thus given will insure greater heat. Trays may be placed on strips -of wood or scantlings supported by low sawhorses. The sawhorses should -be long enough to support two rows of trays abreast. Three scantlings or -strips will be required for each pair of sawhorses. They should be of -even lengths, as long as obtainable, and the middle one should be larger -than the outside ones; 2 by 4 inches for the middle one and 2 by 3 -inches for the side scantlings will be found convenient sizes. The figs -should be placed singly on the tray, with their eyes all toward one -side, and this side of the tray should be slightly raised in order to -prevent the contents of very juicy figs from running out during the -process of drying. The raising of the trays is the most easily -accomplished by placing the 2 by 4 inch supporting strip in the middle -of the sawhorses and the 2 by 3 inch strips on either side. Immediately -after sulphuring, if that is practiced, or after dipping, the fruit -should be spread and the trays distributed on the racks where they will -have the full benefit of the hottest sun. This distribution of the trays -should be finished before noon each day to secure the best color of the -dried product. - -The figs must be turned twice a day at first and once a day in the later -stages of drying. The turning requires much work and expense, as it can -be done well only by hand labor. An inferior product may be turned by -placing an empty tray face downward upon a filled one and inverting -them, leaving the fruit on the new tray. To produce the best grade of -dried fruit, the figs should not touch one another on the trays during -the process of drying. During the turning, all inferior figs, such as -those that ferment and puff up, should be culled out and used for -vinegar. Figs which show a slight froth at the eye are turning sour and -should be removed. - -Covering the figs must not be neglected, if a choice article of dried -fruit is to be produced. If white figs are left out over night -uncovered, they will be discolored. Rain and dew are very damaging and -the fruit should be protected from them. This is best accomplished, in -California, by stacking the trays one on top of another when rain is -expected. The top and sides of the stacks should then be protected with -empty trays. If permanent drying beds of gravel and cement are made, a -mechanical device for covering the trays with a horizontal canvas -curtain can be used, and in this way they can easily be covered every -night. - - - DEGREE OF DRYNESS. - -It is very important that drying cease when the figs have reached the -proper stage for packing. They must on no account be overdried nor -should they be removed from the trays too soon. The proper degree of -dryness can be detected by pressing the figs between the thumb and -finger. They should be soft and pliable, with the contents distinctly -pulpy, and when squeezed the fig should not resume its former shape, but -remain pressed. It should be plastic, not elastic nor dry. Underdried -figs will spoil in packing, while overdried ones are hard, leathery, and -worthless as food or delicacy. The trays must be gone over every day and -the properly dried figs taken off, the spoiled ones being removed at the -same time. The time required for drying varies from four to sixteen -days. Drying within six or seven days yields the best quality of -product. - - - SWEATING AND EQUALIZING. - -Dried figs are greatly benefited by being sweated or equalized as -regards moisture. This is accomplished by placing them in sweat boxes -holding 75 pounds or more. The boxes are stacked up one across another -in such a way as to insure a free circulation of air. This is to prevent -the sour fermentation, which would spoil the figs. The room where the -sweat boxes are stored should be closed and the walls should preferably -be of brick. Daily examination of the contents of the boxes should be -made, so that any inclination of the fruit to ferment and heat may be -detected. In a few days an improvement in the texture of the figs will -be noticed, the overdried ones having attracted moisture from those that -were underdried and all having become more pliable. - - - ARTIFICIAL DRYING. - -Where figs can not be dried in the open air, evaporators or driers, -heated artificially, may be used to advantage, just as in the drying and -curing of raisins. Large driers are expensive and are beyond the reach -of many growers, but small driers, holding a ton of fruit, may be built -cheaply. It may be safely stated, however, that localities where -artificial drying is necessary are not suited to the most profitable -production of commercial figs, as any extra handling will greatly -increase the cost of the product. Where a very superior article is -produced the occasional use of the drier may be profitable, in order to -save a crop that would otherwise be injured by inclement weather. - - - PACKING. - -The method of packing dried figs and the kind of package used should -vary according to the quality of the finished product. They should be -packed in order to prevent drying out, as well as to make them present -an attractive appearance. It pays to pack the best grades well, for good -packing always enhances the value of fruit. - - - DIPPING. - -The first step in packing is the dipping of the dried fruit, and this -must be done whether the figs are packed cheaply or expensively. The -dipping, which must be done just before packing, causes the figs to -become soft and pliable, equalizes moisture, and improves the skin and -its color. Perforated buckets holding 5 gallons of dried figs are -suitable vessels for holding the figs during the dipping. A kettle -arranged for heating water and large enough to permit the immersion of -the bucket of figs should be provided. In this kettle sea water or brine -made of one-fourth pound of coarse salt to a gallon of water should be -heated to the boiling point. The bucket of figs should then be immersed -in this boiling brine for a few seconds and emptied on to wire screens -to drain. While draining, the figs should be covered with a cloth or -otherwise kept dark. The fruit should be packed on the same day that it -is dipped. The best grade of white figs, or very soft figs of any grade, -should only be dipped in _cold_ salt water, just before packing. The -salt water is never washed off, and the salt that remains does not in -the least injure the figs, but, on the contrary, improves their quality. - - - ASSORTING. - -The inferior figs which were removed from the trays during the drying -process should be assorted into at least two sizes for packing. A yet -lower grade which can not be profitably packed may be sold in sacks. The -largest Smyrna figs weigh, when dried, about 23 grams [355 grains, or -about four-fifths of an ounce avoirdupois], while the average French and -Italian figs weigh each about 8 grams [123.45 grains, or a little more -than one-fourth of an ounce avoirdupois]. - - - PULLING. - -The best grades of figs should be pulled or flattened before packing. -This pulling consists first in squeezing the fig with the hand to soften -it, and then flattening it so as to shape it into a disk in which the -eye and stalk are nearly in the center of the flat sides, as may be -observed in packages of figs imported from Smyrna. The object of this -pulling is to have the figs present as fine a surface as possible when -they are pressed and packed, this method enabling the packer to hide the -eye and stalk ends effectually. For inferior brands it will suffice to -simply flatten the figs in such a way that the eye and stalk are at -opposite extremities of the fruit when pressed. In pulling and handling -the figs, the hands of the worker should always be moistened with salt -water to prevent them from becoming sticky with sirup and thus soiling -the figs. - - - PACKING. - -The packing should be regulated according to the size and quality of the -figs. The size of the boxes will therefore vary, but they may be made to -contain 5, 10, or 20 pounds each. In Smyrna the figs are packed in the -shape of bars, and this method should be followed for all the better -grades. In order to pack quickly in bar fashion, the writer several -years ago invented a “bar-packing device” or “guide.” This guide -consists of a frame of two or three parallel strips of tin or zinc -connected at opposite ends by two similar strips. The guide, which is -really a metal box without top or bottom, fits exactly into the packing -box flush against two of the sides, but is slightly higher than the -depth of the box in order that it may be pulled out after filling. The -guide is placed in an empty fig box, thus dividing it into three or more -compartments. The figs are then placed in rows in each compartment with -the eyes downward, each fig slightly overlapping the other, in the way -shingles are laid on a roof, just sufficiently to hide the stalks. The -compartments in the guide should be slightly narrower, or at most no -wider than the figs, so that when pressure is applied the figs will -flatten and fill them. The object of the guide is to keep the fig bars -separate. After the box is full a slight pressure is applied, which -squeezes the figs against the sides of the guide, and when the latter is -withdrawn leaves the bars intact without large air holes between the -figs or bars. - - - PRESSING. - -The raisin presses used in California are suitable for pressing figs. -There is no better machine for this purpose made anywhere. A follower of -wood covered with zinc is first placed in each compartment on the figs -and a slight pressure applied in the press. The pressure must be strong -enough to bring the figs to the level of the box. The guide is then -lifted out, while the fingers of the packer press firmly on the follower -to hold the figs in place. Instead of having a guide in which the bars -are connected at the ends, the box may be grooved on the inside and a -single strip of zinc or tin dropped down, thus dividing the box into two -or more compartments as may be necessary. The strips are more easily -removed than the more complicated guide. Before the box is nailed up, -small leaves of the sweet bay (_Laurus nobilis_) should be inserted -between the figs on the surface, and over the whole should be spread a -sheet of waxed paper. Instead of the sweet bay leaves, other native -laurel leaves may be used, provided they are aromatic, have the -distinctive laurel flavor, and are not otherwise objectionable. - -It can not be too strongly urged that American-grown figs be packed and -sold under their proper labels and not designated “Smyrna” figs. Careful -selection of varieties, skill in growing and curing, and careful, honest -packing will in time procure a large market for our figs. - -In all the Mediterranean countries the fresh as well as the dried fig is -a common article of diet, both nourishing and wholesome, and it is only -a question of time when its value will be generally recognized in this -country. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - FIG CULTURE IN THE GULF STATES. - By FRANK S. EARLE. - - -The fig is a domestic fruit of prime importance in all the Gulf and -South Atlantic States; throughout this region it is a common dooryard -tree. Its broad, rich foliage is one of the first things to catch the -eye of the Northern visitor and assure him that he is really in the -South. - -Toward its northern limit the tree is sometimes injured by unusually -severe winters, but unless killed to the ground it never fails to -produce heavy annual crops. Even severe winter-killing is usually but a -temporary loss, as the roots send up vigorous sprouts that bear the -following year. - -Although the fig is so widely distributed and so universally esteemed -for household uses, it is only recently that any attempt has been made -in the territory under consideration to utilize it as a commercial -product. In the search throughout the South for possible money crops, -other than cotton, it is beginning to attract attention, and in this -connection a brief statement of our present knowledge as to the growth -and possible uses of the fig may be of service. - - - PROPAGATION. - -The fig roots easily from cuttings and is usually propagated in this -way. Short pieces or even large branches of well-matured wood, cut from -the tree at any time during the winter and simply thrust into the soil, -will usually take root and make a strong growth the following summer. -The well-matured wood is best for making cuttings. One of the most -desirable methods is to cut a section bearing a short but thrifty -lateral branch from a good-sized limb. The section taken should be 6 or -8 inches long and be entirely buried in the ground, leaving the end of -the side branch projecting to form the tree. This is not at all -essential, as a straight cutting will usually root and grow readily, but -it is desirable, as the buried cross section holds the cutting firmly in -the ground and its bulk prevents it from drying out easily. In the coast -region cuttings are often planted in August with good results. In this -case the leaves should be removed. It is advisable to plant the cutting -where the tree is to stand, as fig roots are easily injured by -transplanting. Little is gained in growth by planting rooted trees, but -when such are used both roots and tops should be heavily pruned when -planted, to secure a satisfactory growth. - -Sometimes it is advisable to plant the cuttings in the nursery and to -keep them there for three years before removing them to their permanent -location, as winter protection can be more easily given them. After the -trunk of the fig is three years old it is much less easily injured by -cold. This practice would seem to be of doubtful value, since young figs -are more often injured by late frosts after growth has started in the -spring than by the greater cold of midwinter when they are dormant. Figs -can be grafted without difficulty, but it is seldom done in the south. - - - SOIL AND LOCATION. - -The fig will grow in almost any location, but it attains its highest -development on a rich, moist, but well-drained soil, that contains -abundant humus. - -A plentiful supply of lime, phosphoric acid, and potash is also needed, -and if not contained in the soil must be supplied by fertilization. The -best conditions for fig growth are found in the bottoms and hammocks -rather than in the sandy uplands, though many fine specimens can be -found in either location. In planting for home use it is advisable to -plant the trees near the house and about the farm buildings, for they -always thrive in such locations, while many failures have been made in -attempting to establish them under orchard conditions, especially in the -light soils of the “piney woods” region. It is not easy to account for -these failures, since the old dooryard trees are so universally healthy -and thrifty, though growing without care or attention. Several causes -can be cited that may contribute to the result, but all seem -insufficient to account fully for the facts observed. There must be some -undetected factor that contributes to the almost universal superiority -of dooryard over orchard-grown fig trees in the Gulf States. - -One of the most obvious difficulties in establishing a fig orchard -arises from the fact that the young trees are tender and easily injured -by the cold. Figs start very early in the season, and the frequently -occurring spring frosts often catch them in quite vigorous growth. This -does no great harm to old trees; though the young leaves are killed, -they soon push out again, and as the principal crop of fruit is borne on -the new wood the crop is not much injured. With young trees, however, it -is different, as the tissues of the trunk are softer. Fine, thrifty -trees of one or two years’ growth are killed to the ground by a slight -freeze after their spring growth has started. They may start again from -the root, but their vitality is injured and they do not seem to fully -recover. Such trees at 3 or 4 years old are often no larger than after -the first summer’s growth. Young trees also suffer much more severely -than old ones from extreme cold in winter, even when entirely dormant. -It would appear that the shelter afforded by buildings and yard fences -may sufficiently protect young trees from damage, when in an open space -they would be severely injured. Then, if from a dozen cuttings stuck -down in such out-of-the-way places only two or three grow, they are seen -and remembered, while the failures are forgotten, whereas an orchard row -showing a stand of only one-fourth is very unsatisfactory. The dooryard -tree usually gets the benefit of ashes and house-slops, and perhaps the -wash from the barnyard. These sources of fertility are all beneficial, -for the fig is a gross feeder. Its roots are never broken by the plow, -which is another great advantage, for the fig has a shallow rooting -habit and does not thrive when its feeding roots are disturbed. - -In the light soils of the South it is extremely difficult to keep plows -and cultivators from running so deep as to do serious injury to fig -trees, and the proper cultivation or treatment of a fig orchard is -therefore a serious question. Many growers advise against plowing after -the first year, but the tree will not thrive if choked with grass and -weeds. To keep a large orchard clean with a hoe is no small undertaking. -Some advocate heavy mulching to keep down weeds, and that is doubtless -often advisable, but the hard, clean-swept southern dooryard seems to -suit the root habit of the fig better than any system of cultivation yet -devised. Another point to be considered is that the fig suffers severely -from root knot when planted in the fields where vegetables or cowpeas -have been grown, as the nematodes causing this trouble multiply in the -roots of all such crops. - -In planting a fig orchard care should be taken to select new land that -is known to be free from these pests. - -The fig has a spreading habit of growth and when old requires -considerable room. As the cuttings cost but little, it is well to plant -rather closely, with the expectation of thinning out the trees when -necessary. With 200 trees to the acre the earlier crops would be double -those obtained from a planting of half that number, though doubtless 100 -full-grown trees would sufficiently occupy the land. Twelve by 16 is a -suitable distance for the trees when young. Removing alternate rows when -needed would leave the permanent planting 16 by 24 feet. It is best to -plant two or three cuttings at each place, to be sure of a stand. All -but the most vigorous can be cut out if more than one starts to grow. - - - CULTIVATION AND FERTILIZATION. - -Unquestionably figs should be thoroughly cultivated during the first -season. This is necessary to give them a good start, and as the young -trees make their largest growth after midsummer it is important to -continue the cultivation late in the season. Unless the soil is quite -rich some fertilizer should be used, as the future of the tree depends -largely on its vigor during the first season. An excessive use of stable -manure or other nitrogenous fertilizer should be avoided, as the -tendency of these is to induce a soft, succulent growth too easily -injured by the winter. The “piny-woods” soils are deficient in -phosphoric acid, and this should be a prominent ingredient of all -fertilizers used in regions where these predominate. - -It is not advisable to attempt to cultivate any vegetable crop among fig -trees, on account of the danger of increasing root knot, and because -such crops are likely to interfere with cultivation at the time when it -may be most needed. - -The best subsequent treatment for a fig orchard is, to a certain extent, -an open question. It is probable that in most locations the best results -will be obtained by mulching heavily near the tree with any available -material that will hold moisture and keep down the weeds. Pine straw, -marsh grass, or planer shavings answer the purpose. The dust from old -charcoal pits is sometimes used, and on the coast a mulch of oyster -shells is often seen. The slowly decomposing shells probably act to some -extent as a fertilizer, since the fig is known to thrive best in strong -lime soils. The middle of the rows can be kept clean by a shallow -plowing and harrowing without disturbing the mulch and without injury to -the roots protected by it. Winter protection of some kind should -certainly be provided during the first two or three years, at least to -the extent of mounding the dirt or mulch high about the base of the tree -in the fall. Protecting the tops with old gunny sacks or pine branches -will often prove of great advantage. - -Pruning is seldom practiced, except so far as may be necessary to -properly shape the young tree, and this is better done in summer by -pinching. In case of a freeze, all injured wood should be promptly cut -away. It is said that the size of the fruit can be greatly increased by -judicious pruning, but, as before stated, it is seldom done. - -Figs come into bearing very early. A thrifty growing cutting will often -set some fruit the first season, but this seldom matures. When the tree -does not winterkill, a little fruit may be expected the second season, -and by the third the crop should be of some importance. - - - INSECT ENEMIES AND DISEASES. - -The fig is usually spoken of as being comparatively free from insect -enemies, and the literature of its diseases, of which there are a -number, is scanty. It is probably true that in most localities it is -less frequently injured from these causes than are other fruit trees. - -Among the diseases reported from the South the one causing most -widespread injury is doubtless root knot. - - - FIG-TREE BORER. - -A longicorn beetle, _Ptychodes vittatus_, has caused considerable injury -at some points in Louisiana and Mississippi by burrowing into the trunk -and larger branches. In reply to inquiries regarding this insect, -Director W. C. Stubbs, of the Louisiana Experiment Station, says: - - The damage done in Louisiana is to a large extent conjectural. - In our groves we have lost several trees temporarily, all being - bored into by this borer. They, however, start up again quickly - from the roots and soon replace the injured trees. We have had - no remedy against this invasion except to dig it out while very - young with a penknife. We have tried various insecticides - without any apparent results. - - - FIG-LEAF MITE. - -A browning and subsequent premature falling of the leaves, caused by the -work of a minute mite, is reported as rather common in Florida by Mr. H. -J. Webber, of the Subtropical Laboratory. It has not been studied. - -Mr. Ellison A. Smith, jr., botanist and entomologist of South Carolina -Experiment Station, has published a list[1] of insects observed feeding -on ripe figs, but he does not mention any that injure the tree. - -Footnote 1: - - South Carolina Experiment Station, Annual Report, 1889, pp. 105, 106. - The list is as follows: Allorhina nitida (L.), Ptychodes trilineatus, - Lybithea bachmanni (Kirth), Apatura celtidis (Bd. Sec.), Grapta - interrogationis (F.), Pyrameis atalanta (L.). - - - ROOT KNOT. - -This disease is caused by a microscopic nematode or true worm, -_Heterodera radicola_,[2] that infests the soft fibrous roots causing -small galls or swellings. When present in sufficient numbers it causes -the death of the roots and the consequent starvation and death of the -tree. It is by no means confined to the fig, but attacks the roots of -many other fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs and is especially -injurious to many garden vegetables and farm crops.[3] This pest thrives -best in moist sandy soils, and is troublesome throughout the entire -coast region. - -No effective remedy is known when a tree is once infested, hence the -necessity for planting on land known to be free from the pest, and the -importance of not growing vegetables between the trees that will act as -a nurse crop for the disease. - -Neal recommends thorough drainage of the land and the application of -tobacco dust mixed with unleached ashes or lime as the most promising -remedial measures. He advises against the excessive use of ammoniacal -manures as producing a soft, succulent root growth favorable to the -growth of the nematode. (See Bulletin No. 20, previously cited.) - -Footnote 2: - - G. F. Atkinson, “A preliminary report upon the life history and - metamorphoses of a root-gall nematode (_Heterodera radicola_ (Greeff) - Müll.) and the injuries caused by it upon roots of various - plants.”—Alabama Agr. Exp. Sta. Bul. No. 9. - -Footnote 3: - - J. C. Neal, in an account of the root-knot disease (Dept. Agr., Div. - Ent., Bul. No. 20) gives a list of over 60 species of plants known to - be infested by it. - - - FIG-LEAF RUST. - -Brown spots frequently appear on the foliage during the summer, and, if -numerous, cause the leaves to fall prematurely. These spots are caused -by a true rust fungus, _Uredo fici_ Cast. It occurs quite frequently -widely, and abundantly, but as it usually does not develop enough to be -noticeable until after the crop is ripe, it seems to do but little harm. -No attempt has been made to find a remedy. - - - FIG CERCOSPORA. - -A somewhat similar injury to the leaves is known in Europe, caused by an -entirely different fungus, _Cercospora bolleana_ (Thum) Sacc. It had not -been observed in this country until the summer of 1895, when it was -found abundantly in Mississippi by S. M. Tracy. A _cercospora_, probably -the same species, is also reported from Florida by H. J. Webber. It -probably occurs quite commonly, but has been overlooked, its injuries -being confounded with those caused by the _Uredo_. - - - DIE BACK. - -A dying of the young shoots in the fall and early winter is sometimes -noticed. This occurs before they can have been injured by severe cold -and its cause is not known. It usually occurs in feeble trees, those -injured by previous winter killing or perhaps those suffering from root -knot. A similar trouble is noted by A. F. Barron, of Chiswick, England, -(The Garden, June 20, 1891, p. 577). He finds it occurring in trees -grown in pots, and says it is there seldom noticed in trees growing out -of doors. - - - ROOT ROT. - -The fungus _Ozonium auricomum_ Lk., which causes a root rot of cotton -and of many other plants and trees, has been reported upon the fig,[4] -but the extent of damage caused by it is not known. Several other -species of fungi are known to occur on the fig, but none of them can be -classed as disease-producing organisms. - -Footnote 4: - - Farlow and Seymour, A Provisional Host-Index of the Fungi of the - United States, Part 3, p. 183. - - - VARIETIES. - -Much confusion exists in the naming of fig varieties. They were first -introduced by the early French and Spanish settlers, and there have been -more or less frequent importations since. Trees from these various -sources have been known under many local names, and it is probable that -there are now many more names recorded than we have varieties in -cultivation. On the other hand, distinct varieties are often met with -that can not be named from published descriptions. In Louisiana and -Mississippi it is safe to say that nine-tenths of all the figs grown are -of the Celeste variety. This is sometimes written Celestial, but among -growers it is uniformly known as Celeste. The tree is hardy and very -fruitful. The fruit is small, but it is one of the best in quality. When -ripe it is a light yellowish brown, tinged with violet. The flesh is -light red, delicate in texture, and very sweet and rich. A number of -other varieties occur, but they are known under local names, such as -“black fig” or “Spanish fig.” More attention has been paid to -nomenclature and to the planting of different varieties in other parts -of the South, but the Celeste is the favorite in nearly all localities. - -Some interesting papers on figs were read at the meeting of the American -Pomological Society, held in Florida in 1889, and in the published -proceedings of the meeting the following 18 varieties are catalogued -among the fruits recommended by the society. - - - _List of figs recommended by American Pomological Society._ - -Alicante; Angelique—synonym, _Jaune Hative_; Brunswick; Blue Genoa; -Black Ischia; Brown Smyrna; Celeste; Green Ischia—synonyms, _White -Ischia_, _Green Italian_; Lemon; Violet, Long; Violet, Round; Nerii; -Pregussata; White Adriatic; White Marseillaise; White Genoa; Superfine -de la Sausaye; Turkey—synonym, _Brown Turkey_. - -On comparing this list with 11 others furnished by nurserymen and -writers on the fig, and taken at random from Texas, Louisiana, Georgia, -and Florida sources, we find 14 of these names occurring more or less -frequently. Four are not mentioned at all, while 13 additional names -appear, making a total of 31 varieties in the 12 lists. Celeste and -Brown Turkey lead, being mentioned 11 times each; Adriatic, Lemon, and -Brunswick come next, each occurring 8 times. White Marseillaise is -mentioned 7 times; White Genoa and Green Ischia, 6 times; Black Ischia, -5 times; and San Pedro, which is not in the American Pomological -Society’s list, occurs 4 times. We may perhaps conclude that these 10 -varieties are the most generally grown in the South, but some of them -are to be considered as nurserymen’s recent introductions from -California, rather than as varieties in general use. They are -characterized in the Pomological Society’s list as follows: - - ────────────────────┬──────────────┬────────────┬─────────┬──────────── - Variety. │ Season. │ Color. │Quality. │ Size. - ────────────────────┼──────────────┼────────────┼─────────┼──────────── - Brunswick │Early │Violet │First │Very large. - Black Ischia │Medium │Black │ do │Medium. - Celestial [Celeste] │Early │Pale violet │ do │Small. - Green Ischia │ do │Green │ do │Medium. - Lemon │ do │Yellow │ do │ Do. - White Adriatic │ │ │ │ - White Marseillaise │Medium │White │Second │Medium. - White Genoa │ do │ do │ do │Large. - Turkey │Early to late │Brown │First │ Do. - San Pedro │Not mentioned │ │ │ - ────────────────────┴──────────────┴────────────┴─────────┴──────────── - -Other lists agree in describing both White Adriatic and San Pedro as -very large white figs of the best quality and very desirable where they -succeed, but as being tender and nonfruitful in many locations. Celeste, -Brown Turkey, and Brunswick are more uniformly commended for hardiness, -fruitfulness, and general utility than any others.[5] - -Footnote 5: - - The canning factories greatly prefer the Celeste, paying one-fourth - more for them than for larger, coarser kinds. - - - USES. - -At present figs are mostly used for household purposes, comparatively -few being prepared for market. They are eaten fresh from the tree or are -served on the table with sugar and cream. They can also be stewed and -made into puddings and pies, and when canned or preserved they make an -acceptable table delicacy throughout the year. On first tasting fresh -figs many people are disappointed and think they will not care for them, -but on further acquaintance nearly everyone learns to like them. If -picked at all green the fig exudes a milky, acrid juice that has a rank, -disagreeable flavor. When fully ripe this disappears, and in learning to -eat figs one should choose only the ripest specimens. The beginner will -find eating them at the table with plenty of sugar and cream a pleasant -introduction. It is needless to commend this method to those who are -acquainted with it. - -For canning, figs should be picked when still firm enough to hold their -shape. To secure the best results they require the use of more sugar -than do some other fruits. If undersweetened they seem tasteless and -lacking in quality. The amount of sugar used and the method of procedure -vary greatly in different households. A pound of sugar to 3 or 4 pounds -of fruit would probably suit most tastes, though some prefer the regular -“pound for pound” preserve. Ginger root or orange peel is sometimes -added to give variety of flavoring, and figs are often made into sweet -pickles by adding spices and vinegar. Figs are sometimes peeled before -canning, and this is considered to increase their delicacy of flavor. -More frequently, however, they are cooked unpeeled and with the stems -on, just as they come from the tree. They hold their shape better and -look more attractive when treated in this way, and the difference in -flavor, if any, is very slight. - -Figs are occasionally dried for household use, but as they ripen at the -South during the season of frequent summer showers, this is so -troublesome that it is not often attempted. A nice product could -doubtless be made by use of fruit evaporators, but these are seldom used -far South. - -In speaking of home uses for the fig, its value as food for pigs and -chickens should not be forgotten. Both are very fond of them, and on -many places the waste figs form an important item of their midsummer -diet. In fact, no cheaper food can be grown for them. - - - MARKETING FRESH FIGS. - -Ripe figs are very perishable. To be marketed successfully they must be -handled with great care. It is best to pick them in the morning, while -still cool. They should be taken from the tree with the stem -attached—great care being exercised not to bruise them in handling—and -placed in small, shallow baskets, in which they are to be marketed. In -large packages their weight will bruise them badly. The ordinary quart -strawberry basket crate is a suitable package for marketing figs. They -will carry better, however, in flat trays, holding but a single layer. -This form of package is especially desirable for the larger varieties. -Figs should hang on the tree until quite ripe and develop their full -sweetness and flavor, but in this condition they are soft and perishable -and must be consumed at once. For marketing at a distance it is -necessary to pick them while still quite firm. This is unfortunate, for -though they will soften and become quite edible, they will lack the fine -quality of tree-ripened fruit. This fact will always be an obstacle to -the successful introduction of the fresh fig into distant markets. When -picked in right condition the fruit will keep from twenty-four to -thirty-six hours at the ordinary temperature and may be shipped short -distances by express. Figs ripen in midsummer when the weather is -hottest, and this is one reason why they are so difficult to handle. -Like other fruits they will keep longer at lower temperatures. They do -well under refrigeration, and by using refrigerator cars it is quite -possible to put them on the more distant Northern markets in good -condition. This has been done experimentally in connection with other -fruit shipments, but it is not often attempted. Fresh figs are not known -or appreciated in Northern markets, and consequently the demand is too -limited to encourage shipments. It seems doubtful if the distant -shipment of fresh figs will ever become a profitable business. The fruit -is more perishable than any other that is generally marketed. It can be -handled only by the most careful and experienced persons, and even then -it is not in a condition to show its best quality. Ripening in -midsummer, when the Northern markets are crowded with many well-known -fruits, and not being specially attractive to the eye, fresh figs would -at best gain favor slowly. The fact that many people do not care for -them at the first would be another obstacle in the way of their -popularity. Moreover, the fig is a tedious crop to handle, when in -proper condition for market. It is necessary to pick the trees over -carefully every day during the season, or much fruit will be overripe. -With large trees, this involves much labor; the acrid juice of the -immature figs eats into the fingers of the pickers and packers, while -rainy weather occasions heavy loss by the cracking of the fruit, which -renders it unfit for market. - -Notwithstanding these drawbacks, a limited demand would undoubtedly be -created if the fig were placed regularly on the market, for many people -are very fond of this fruit. It is quite possible that in sections -especially adapted to fig culture, and favored with rapid refrigerator -transportation, the shipment may become a business of importance. When a -regular home market can be found, even at moderate prices, no crop is -more profitable, as the trees bear regularly and abundantly. The only -hope for such a home market, except in the immediate neighborhood of -large cities, is in increased use by canners. - - - CANNING FACTORIES. - -Everyone likes canned figs. The taste does not have to be educated, as -is often the case with the fresh fruit. The factories at Biloxi, Miss., -and at New Orleans, La., appreciate this fact, and for several years -have been putting increasing quantities of the canned product on the -market. Up to the panic of 1893 the demand for these goods was very -active, and the canners paid as high as 4 cents per pound for the fresh -figs and could not get enough to fill their orders. Since then the -demand for all luxuries has fallen off and factories have curtailed -their packing, but have not materially reduced the price of the product, -which has always been very high. There seems to be no reason, aside from -the larger quantity of sugar required, why figs should not be grown and -canned as cheaply as peaches. If this were done the demand would soon be -very large. It is in this direction, if at all, that there seems to be -an opening for the building up of the fig industry in the South. - -The processes used by the factories in canning figs differ somewhat from -household methods. They also differ among themselves. Each factory has -worked out a plan of its own, the details of which are regarded to some -extent as trade secrets. In one factory, whose product has been much -admired, the process consists in boiling the fruit at first in a very -light sirup, allowing it to cool, and then transferring it with -successive heatings and coolings to sirups of gradually increasing -density. The whole process requires nearly two days. In the finished -product the fig, while holding its shape perfectly, has become partially -transparent, and as the final sirup is clear and free from sediment the -fruit is very attractive. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fig Culture, by -Gustav Eisen and Franklin Sumner Earle - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIG CULTURE *** - -***** This file should be named 53136-0.txt or 53136-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/1/3/53136/ - -Produced by MWS, ellinora and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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