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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4b0af00 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53130 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53130) diff --git a/old/53130-0.txt b/old/53130-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index a26edc6..0000000 --- a/old/53130-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4499 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide-Book of Florida and the South for -Tourists, Invalids and Emigrants, by Daniel G. Brinton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A Guide-Book of Florida and the South for Tourists, Invalids and Emigrants - -Author: Daniel G. Brinton - -Release Date: September 23, 2016 [EBook #53130] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUIDE-BOOK OF FLORIDA *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This book was produced from scanned images of public -domain material from the Google Books project.) - - - - - - - - - - [Illustration: Map of St. John River] - - - - - A - - GUIDE-BOOK - - OF - - FLORIDA AND THE SOUTH, - - FOR - - TOURISTS, INVALIDS AND EMIGRANTS, - - WITH A MAP OF THE ST. JOHN RIVER, - - BY DANIEL G. BRINTON, A. M., M. D., - - PHILADELPHIA: - GEORGE MACLEAN, 719 SANSOM STREET. - - JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA: - - COLUMBUS DREW. - 1869. - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by - DANIEL G. BRINTON, A. M., M. D., - In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, in - and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - - - FROM THE PRESS OF WYLIE & GRIEST, - Inquirer Printing House and Book Bindery, Lancaster, Penn’a. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -This unpretending little book is designed to give the visitor to Florida -such information as will make his trip more useful and more pleasant. In -writing it I have had in mind the excellent European Guide-Books of Karl -Bædeker, the best, to my mind, ever published. Though I have not -followed his plan very closely, I have done so to the extent the -character of our country seems to allow. - -I have borrowed from him the use of the asterisk (*) to denote that the -object so designated is especially noteworthy, or that the hotel thus -distinguished is known to me to be well-kept, either from my own -observation or that of friends. - -Most of the localities are described from my own notes taken during an -extended tour through the peninsula, but for much respecting railroad -fare, accommodations, and charges, I am indebted to a large number of -tourists and correspondents who have related to me their experience. To -all these I express my warmest thanks for their assistance. - -As of course such matters are constantly changing, and as I shall be -most desirous to correct any errors, and bring the work fully up to the -times in future editions, I shall esteem it a particular favor if those -who use this book will forward me any notes or observation which will -aid me in improving it. Such communications may be addressed “care of -the Penn Publishing Co., 710 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Penna.” - -The map of the St. John River is based on that drawn by my friend, Mr. -H. Lindenkohl, U. S. Coast Survey. - -PHILADELPHIA, _August, 1869_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE. - -Preface iii - -Contents iv - - -PRELIMINARY HINTS. - -1. Season for Southern Travel 9 - -2. Preparations for the Journey 10 - - -PART I.--SOUTHERN ROUTES. - -1. Steamship Lines 13 - -2. Washington to Richmond 14 - -3. Richmond to Charleston 18 - -4. Aiken, S. C., and the Southern Highlands 22 - -5. Charleston to Savannah 26 - -6. Savannah to Jacksonville 29 - - -PART II.--FLORIDA. - -1. Historical 32 - -2. Books and Maps 35 - -3. Physical Geography of Florida. 1. Geographical Formation. - 2. Soil and Crops. 3. Climate and Health. - 4. Vegetable and Animal Life 37 - -4. The St. John River and St. Augustine (Indian River,) 52 - -5. Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Quincy, and St. Marks 81 - -6. The Oklawaha River and the Silver Spring 88 - -7. Fernandina to Cedar Keys 93 - -8. Key West, the Florida Keys and the Gulf Coast 97 - -9. The Western Coast (Tampa, Apalachicola, Pensacola, -Mobile) 106 - - -PART III.--CHAPTERS TO INVALIDS. - -I. When is a change of climate advisable? 115 - -II. What climate shall be chosen? 120 - -III. Where is the best Southern winter climate? 128 - -IV. Some hints to Health-Seekers 130 - - - - -GUIDE-BOOK OF FLORIDA AND THE SOUTH. - - - - -PRELIMINARY HINTS. - - - - -THE SEASON FOR SOUTHERN TRAVEL. - - -The season for Southern travel commences in October and ends in May. -After the latter month the periodical rains commence in Florida, and the -mid-day heat is relaxing and oppressive. About mid-summer the swamp -miasm begins to pervade the low grounds, and spreads around them an -invisible poisonous exhalation, into which the traveler ventures at his -peril. This increases in violence until September, when it loses its -power with the returning cold. When one or two sharp frosts have been -felt in New York or Philadelphia, the danger is chiefly past. -Nevertheless, for mere considerations of health, November is soon enough -to reach the Gulf States. Those who start earlier will do well to linger -in some of the many attractive spots on their way through the more -Northern States. A congestive chill is a serious matter, and even the -lightest attack of fever and ague can destroy the pleasure and annul the -benefit of a winter’s tour. - - - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. - - -The comfort of a journey is vastly enhanced by a few simple precautions -before starting. And if I seem too minute here, it is because I am -writing for many to whom the little miseries of traveling are real -afflictions. - -Before you leave home have your teeth thoroughly set in order by a -skilful dentist. If there has been a philosopher who could tranquilly -bear a jumping toothache, his name is not on record. - -A _necessaire_ containing soap, brushes, and all the etceteras of the -toilet is indispensable. It is prudent in many parts of the South to -carry your own towels. - -Spectacles of plain glass, violet, light green, or light grey, are often -a comfort in the sun and in the cars, and if the eyes are weak should -not be omitted. - -A strong, silk musquito net, with fine meshes, will be highly prized in -the autumn nights. A teaspoonful of carbolic acid or camphor, sprinkled -in the room, or an ointment of cold cream scented with turpentine, will -be found very disagreeable to these insects, and often equally so to the -traveler. - -One or two air cushions take up but little room, and should be provided -for every invalid. - -Shoes are preferable for ordinary journeys. In their make, let reason -and not fashion rule. They should be double soled, have low and broad -heels, lace firmly around the ankle, and fit loosely over the toes. -Rubber boots or overshoes should be abolished, especially from the -invalid’s outfit. Rubber overcoats are equally objectionable. They are -all unwholesome contrivances. A pair of easy slippers must always be -remembered. - -For ladies a hood, for gentlemen a felt hat, are the proper head-dresses -on the route. - -In all parts of the South woolen clothing is required in winter, and -flannel under-clothing should be worn by every one who goes there in -pursuit of health. Next to flannel, cotton is to be recommended. It is -more a non-conductor of heat than linen, and thus better protects the -body from changes of temperature. - -Every person in feeble health--and those who are robust will not find -the suggestion amiss--should have with them a few cases of devilled ham, -sardines, potted meats, German sausage, or other savory and portable -preparations, which, with the assistance of a few crackers or a piece of -bread, will make a good lunch. A flask of wine or something similar, -helps out such an impromptu meal. Frequently it is much better than to -gulp down a badly cooked dinner in the time allowed by the trains. - -A strong umbrella, and a stout pocket knife, are indispensable. Guns, -ammunition, rods, and fishing tackle should always be provided before -starting. They should be well protected from dampness, especially the -guns and powder. Florida is the paradise of the sportsman, and those who -are able should not omit to have a “camp hunt” while there. Tents, camp -equipage, and the greater part of the supplies should be purchased in -the North, as they are dearer and not often the best in the Southern -cities. - -On arriving at a hotel, first see that your baggage is safe; then that -your room is well aired, and the sheets on the bed dry. - -It is always well in traveling to have baggage enough--always a bother -to have too much. A good sized leather traveling-bag will do for the -single man; but where a lady is attached, a medium sized leather trunk, -which can be expressed or “checked through,” and a light traveling-bag, -to be taken into the cars and staterooms, and carried in the hand, are -the requisites. - -Money can be transmitted so readily by certified check or draft, that a -tourist need not carry much with him. He should, however, have a reserve -fund about him, so as to be prepared for one of those disagreeable -emergencies which nearly every veteran traveler has at some time -experienced. - -Every one who visits a strange land should strive to interest himself in -its condition, resources, history and peculiarities. The invalid, beyond -all others, should cultivate an interest in his surroundings. Nothing so -well sustains a failing body as an active mind. For that purpose, local -histories, maps, etc., should always be purchased. I have indicated, -under the different cities, what works there are of this kind in the -market, and, in the introductory remarks on Florida, have mentioned -several of a more general character, which should be purchased and read -before going there. (For further hints see the last chapter of this -work.) - - - - -PART I. - - - - -SOUTHERN ROUTES. - - - - -1. STEAMSHIP LINES. - - -In visiting the South Atlantic States the tourist from the North has a -choice of a number of routes. - -Steamers leave New York for Charleston, Savannah, Fernandina, and Key -West, advertisements of which, giving days of sailing can be seen in the -principal daily papers. Philadelphia has regular steamship lines to -Charleston, Savannah, and Key West. From Charleston and Savannah boats -run every other day to Fernandina, Jacksonville, and Palatka on the St. -John river. The whole or a portion of a journey to Florida can be -accomplished by water, and the steamships are decidedly preferable to -the cars for those who do not suffer much from sea sickness. - -The most direct route by railroad is the “Atlantic Coast Line,” by way -of Washington, Acquia Creek, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wilmington, -and Charleston. From Philadelphia to Wilmington the time is 28 hours, -fare $21.90; to Charleston 40 hours, fare $24.00; to Savannah, fare -$33.00; to Jacksonville, fare $38.65. Through tickets and full -information can be obtained in New York at 193 Broadway; Philadelphia -828 Chestnut Street. - -It is proposed to establish a direct line of steamers from New York to -Jacksonville. It is to be hoped that this will be done promptly, as it -will greatly increase trade and travel. - - - - -2. WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND. - - -Distance, 130 miles; time 7.30 hours. - -Until the tourist leaves Washington, he is on the beaten track of -travel, and needs no hints for his guidance; or, if he does, can find -them in abundance. Turning his face southward, he may leave our capital -either in the cars from the Baltimore depot to Alexandria and Acquia -Creek, or, what is to be recommended as the more pleasant alternative, -he may go by steamboat to this station, a distance of 55 miles. The -banks of the Potomac present an attractive diversity of highland and -meadow. A glimpse is caught of Mt. Vernon, and those who desire it can -stop and visit those scenes once so dear to him whose memory is dear to -us all. The reminiscences, however, which one acquires by a visit to -Mount Vernon are rarely satisfactory. - -From Acquia Creek landing the railroad passes through a country still -betraying the sears and scars of conflict, though, happily, it is -recovering in some measure from those sad experiences. _Fredericksburg_ -(15 miles; hotel, the Planter’s House, poor,) may have enough of -interest to induce some one to “lay over” a train. It is an unattractive -spot, except for its historical associations. These are so fresh in the -memory of most that it is unnecessary to mention them. - -Beyond Fredericksburg a number of stations are passed--none of any size. -The distance to Richmond is 60 miles. - - -RICHMOND. - -_Hotels._--Ballard House ($4.00 per day); Spottswood, Exchange (each $2 -per day); Ford’s Hotel on Capitol Square ($2.50 per day); St. Charles -($2.00.) - -_Boarding Houses._--Arlington House, corner Main and 6th street; -Valentine House, on Capitol Square; Richmond House, corner Governor and -Ross streets; Mrs. Bidgood’s, 61 East Main street; Mrs. Brander, 107 E. -Franklin street, (all about $12.00 per week). - -_Telegraph Offices_ in Spottswood and Exchange Hotels. - -_Reading Rooms_ at the Y.M.C.A. The Virginia State Library was pillaged -in 1865, and the Virginia Historical Library burned. - -_Theatre._--The Richmond Theatre has a respectable stock company, and is -visited by most of the stars of the stage. - -_Booksellers._--West & Johnson, 1006 Main St., (Brinton’s _Guide-Book_.) - -_Churches_ of all denominations. - - * * * * * - -Richmond derives it name from the ancient burgh of the same name on the -Thames. The word is supposed to be a corruption of _rotre mont_, and -applies very well to the modern namesake. Like Rome, it is seated upon -seven hills, and if it has never commanded the world, it will be forever -famous as the seat of the government of the whilom Confederacy. It is -situated at the Great Falls of the James river, on the Richmond and -Shoccoe hills, between which flows the Shoccoe creek. - -In the early maps of the colony, the site of the present city is marked -as “Byrd’s Warehouse,” an ancient trading post, we can imagine, said to -have stood where the Exchange hotel is now built. In 1742 the city was -established, and has ever since been the chief center of Virginian life. - -The capitol is a showy edifice, on Shoccoe hill. The plan was taken from -the Maison Quarre, of Nismes, with some modifications, among others the -Doric pillars. It stands in the midst of a square of eight acres. In -this building the Confederate Congress held its sessions. It contains, -among other objects, a well cut statue of Washington, dating from the -last century, “_fait par Houdin, citoyen Francais_,” as we learn from -the inscription, and a bust of Lafayette. Two relics of the old colonial -times are exhibited--the one a carved chair which once belonged to the -house of Burgesses, of Norfolk--the other a huge stove, of singular -shape, bearing the colonial arms of Virginia in relief. This latter is -the product of a certain Buzaglo. It is eight or ten feet high, and -slopes from base to summit. A letter of the inventor is extant, -addressed to Lord Botetourt, in which he speaks of it as “excelled -anything ever seen of the kind, and a masterpiece not to be excelled in -all Europe.” - -In the square around the capitol is an* equestrian statue of Gen. George -Washington, constructed by Crawford, and erected February 22, 1858. Its -total height is sixty feet. Around its base are six pedestals, upon -which are figures of Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, Marshall, Gov. -Nelson, George Mason and Andrew Lewis, the latter an Indian fighter, -once of celebrity in Western Virginia. - -To the left of this is a small statue of Henry Clay, erected by the -ladies of Virginia, made by Hart, and inaugurated in 1860. - -On the eastern side of the square is the residence of the Governor, and -on another side the City Hall, a handsome edifice with Doric columns. - -St. John’s Church, on Richmond Hill, is the oldest church edifice in the -city. The tower and belfry are, however, a modern addition. From its -church-yard, dotted with ancient tombs, one of the most charming views -of the city can be obtained. In this church, in 1775, the young and -brilliant orator, Patrick Henry, delivered his famous oration before the -Virginia Convention, which concludes with the famous words, “Give me -liberty, or give me death.” - -The Tredegar Iron Works, Libby Prison, at the corner of Thirty-fifth and -Main streets, Belle Isle, and Castle Thunder, will be visited by most -tourists as objects of interest. *Hollywood cemetery, near the city is a -quiet and beautiful spot, well deserving a visit. - -In the fire of April 2, 1865, about one thousand buildings were -destroyed, but the ravages of that disastrous epoch are now nearly -concealed by new and handsome structures. - -The Falls of the James are properly rapids, the bed of the river making -a descent of only eighty feet in two miles. They furnish a valuable -water-power. - -*Hollywood Cemetery, one mile from the city, is a spot of great natural -beauty. Here lie the remains of Presidents Monroe and Tyler, and other -distinguished men, as well as of many thousand Confederate soldiers. A -rough granite monument has recently been erected in memory of the -latter. - -Butler’s Dutch Gap and Drewy’s Bluff, and the famous battle fields near -the city, will be visited with interest by many. - -Those who would visit the mineral springs of Virginia, will find ample -information in Dr. Moorhead’s volume on them, or in that by Mr. Burke. -Both can be obtained of West & Johnson, booksellers, Main street. - -The Natural Bridge, one of the most remarkable curiosities in the State, -is best approached by way of Lynchburg, from which place it is distant -35 miles, by canal. - - - - -3. RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON. - - -From Richmond to Petersburg is 32 miles on the Richmond and Petersburg -railway. The earthworks and fortifications around the latter town, -memorials of our recent conflict, are well worth a visit from those who -have not already seen too many such curiosities to care for more. - -64 miles beyond Petersburg the train reaches Weldon, on the Roanoke -river, a few miles within the boundary of North Carolina (_Gouch’s -Hotel_.) - -From Weldon to Goldsboro, the next stopping place of importance, is 78 -miles, 7.30 hours. It is a place of about 5000 inhabitants, half white -and half colored. - -_Hotels._--Griswold Hotel, Gregory’s Hotel, both $3 per day. - -_Boarding House_ by Mrs Tompkins, $2 per day. - -The road here intersects the North Carolina, and Atlantic and North -Carolina railways, the latter running to Morehead city and Beaufort, on -the coast, (95 miles) and the former to Raleigh, the capitol of the -State, (48 miles) and interior towns. From Goldsboro to Wilmington is -84 miles. - -_Hotels._--Purcell House, $4 per day; Fulton House, $3 per day. - -_Boarding Houses._--McRea House, Brock’s Exchange, about $2 per day, -$40.00 per month. - -_Newspapers._--_Post_, republican, _Journal_, democratic. - -_Steamboat Line_ to Fayetteville, N. C., (130 miles, fare $5.00); to -Smithville, at the mouth of Cape Fear, (30 miles, fare $1.50.) - -Wilmington (16,000 inhabitants) is on Cape Fear river, 25 miles from the -sea. It is well built. The staples are turpentine and resinous products. -The vicinity is flat and sandy. At this point the railroad changes from -the New York guage, 5 feet, to the Charleston guage, 4 feet 8 inches. - -The journey from Richmond to Charleston can also be made by way of -Greensboro, Charlotte and Columbia. This route leads through the -interior of the country, and, though longer, offers a more diversified -scene to the eye. - -To Greensboro, on the Richmond & Danville and Piedmont Railways, is 189 -miles; thence on the North Carolina Railway to Charlotte, 93 miles; then -on the Charlotte & S. Carolina railway to Columbia, S. C., 107 miles -(Nickerson’s hotel, $3.00 per day, newly fitted up); thence by the -Columbia Branch of the South Carolina Railway to Charleston, 130 miles. - -Salisbury, N. C., 150 miles south of Greensboro, is the most convenient -point to enter the celebrated mountain regions of North Carolina. A -railway runs thence to Morgantown, in the midst of the sublime scenery -of the Black mountains, and in close proximity to the beautiful falls -of the Catawba. Charlotte (_hotel_, the Mansion House), is in the center -of the gold region of North Carolina, and the site of a United States -Branch Mint. It is also the scene of the battle of Guilford Court House, -during the revolutionary war. - -The capitol, in Columbia, is considered a very handsome building. - - -CHARLESTON. - -_Hotels._--*Charleston Hotel, Mills House (newly furnished), both on -Meeting Street. Charges, $4.00 per day. *Pavilion Hotel. Mr. -Butterfield, proprietor, $3.00 per day, also on Meeting Street. -Planter’s Hotel, Church Street, Victoria House, King Street, both $2.50 -per day. - -_Telegraph Office_, on Broad near Church Street; branch office in -Charleston Hotel. - -_Post Office_, on Hazel Street, near Meeting. - -_Churches._--Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Huguenot, Methodist, &c. - -_Theatre_, at the corner of King and Market Streets. - -_Bathing Houses._--One of salt water near the battery; two, with water -of the artesian well, one at the well, the other in the Charleston -Hotel. - -_Livery Stable_, 21 Pinckney Street, connected with the Charleston -Hotel. - -_Street Cars_ run on several of the streets; fare, 10 cts., 15 tickets -for $1.00. All the hotels have omnibuses waiting at the depots. - -_Physician._--Dr. Geo. Caulier, 158 Meeting Street. - -_Newspapers._--The Daily _Courier_, the Daily _News_. - -_Depots._--The depot of the Northeastern R. R. from Wilmington to the -north, is at the corner of Chapel and Washington Sts.; that of the road -to Savannah is at the foot of Mill street; and that of the S. C. R. R. -to Aikin, Augusta, Atlanta, etc., is in Line street, between King and -Meeting streets. - -_Bookseller._--John Russell, 288 King street. (Brinton’s _Guide-Book_.) - -_Libraries._--Charleston library, 30,000 vols.; Apprentices’ library, -12,000 vols. - - * * * * * - -Charleston claims 40,000 inhabitants, the whites and blacks being about -equal in number. It is curious that since the war the mortality of the -latter has been twice as great as of the whites. - -The city is seven miles from the ocean at the junction of the Ashley and -Cooper rivers, and has an excellent harbor, surrounded by works of -defence. On the sea line is Fort Moultrie; Castle Pinkney stands at the -entrance to the city; south of the latter is Fort Ripley, built of -palmetto logs; while in the midst of the harbor stands the famous Fort -Sumter. - -The ravages caused by the terrible events of the late war have yet been -only very partially repaired in Charleston. The greater part of the -burnt district is deserted and waste. - -The history of Charleston, previous to that event, is not of conspicuous -interest. The city was first commenced by English settlers, in 1672, and -for a long time had a struggling existence. Many of its early -inhabitants were Huguenots, who fled thither to escape the persecutions -which followed the revocation of the edict of Nantes. A church is still -maintained in which their ancient worship is celebrated. - -Of public buildings, the ancient church of St. Michael’s, built about -1750, has some claim to architectural beauty. - -The fashionable quarter of the city is the Battery. *Magnolia cemetery, -on the Cooper river, is well worth a visit. It is one of the most -beautiful in the South. It was laid out in 1850, and contains some -handsome monuments. - -The Custom House is a fine building, of white marble. - -Those who wish to visit Fort Sumter, and review the scenes of 1861, can -be accommodated by a small sailing vessel, which leaves the wharf every -morning at 10.30 o’clock. - -In the church-yard of St. Philip’s is the tomb of John C. Calhoun. A -slab, bearing the single word “Calhoun,” marks the spot. - -The museum of the Medical College is considered one of the finest in the -United States. - - - - -4. AIKEN, S. C., AND THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS. - - -Within the past ten years the advantages for invalids of a residence in -the highlands of the Carolinas, Georgia and Tennessee have been -repeatedly urged on the public. The climate in these localities is dry -and mild, exceedingly well adapted, therefore, for such cases as find -the severe cold of Minnesota irritating, and the moist warmth of Florida -enervating. Aiken, S. C., Atlanta, Ga., Lookout Mountain, near -Chattanooga, East Tennessee, and other localities offer good -accommodations, and have almost equal advantages in point of climate. -Like other resorts, they do not agree with all invalids, but they are -suitable for a large class. - -One of the best known and most eligible is - - -AIKEN, SOUTH CAROLINA. - -Distance from Charleston, by the South Carolina Railroad, 120 miles. -Time 8 hours. Two trains daily. Fare $6. - -_Hotels._--The Aiken Hotel, H. Smyser, proprietor. Engage rooms a week -ahead. Fare, $3.00 per day. A Sanitarium is in process of construction -on a beautiful eminence west of the town. - -_Boarding_ can be obtained in a number of private families. - -_Telegraph_ station at the depot. - -_Livery Stables_, two. Horse and buggy, $4.00 per day; saddle horse, -$2.50 per day. - -_Churches._--Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist and Baptist. - -The town has about 1,500 inhabitants, though the passing traveler would -not think so, as the railroad passes through a deep cut, which conceals -most of the houses. Whites and blacks are about equal in number. The -streets are wide, sandy, and not very neat. - -The site is on the ridge which divides the valleys of the Edisto and -Savannah rivers. At this point the elevation is 600 feet above sea -level. The loose soil of siliceous sand and red clay, and the rapid -declivities, insure an excellent drainage. The water is clear, and -contains some traces of iron and magnesia, rather beneficial than -otherwise. - -The climate is agreeable in both winter and summer. The mean temperature -of the year is 62 degrees Fahrenheit; of the three winter months 46.5, -45 and 50 degrees. The thermometer rarely registers under 20 degrees. -Rain falls to the depth of 37 inches annually, the wettest season being -in summer. Frosts commence about the middle of November, and cease about -the last of March. The prevailing winds are southerly in summer, -easterly and northerly in winter. The dew point is always low, -indicating a dry atmosphere. Malarial diseases are asserted to be -entirely unknown. - -The soil is lauded, and with justness, for its fitness for fruit -culture. Orchards, vineyards and garden plots are exceedingly -productive, but the more staple crops do not correspond in excellence. -The wines of Aiken have long been known in commerce. Though not high -flavored, with none of the _bouquet_ which lends such value to the -vintages of the Upper Rhine, they are a pure and healthy beverage. It -must be remembered that agriculture, in the sense of the word in -Pennsylvania and New York, is almost an unknown art in this part of the -South. - -Except its advantages in connection with health, Aiken offers little to -attract the tourist. In the stone quarries near the railroad the -geologist can collect some very good specimens of fossil shells and -corals from the tertiary limestone. The buhr mill-stone abounds in this -region, and has been successfully tried in mills. Prof. Tuomey in a -report on the geology of the State pronounces these equal to the best -French stones. They have, however, never been put in the market with -energy. - -The wine cellars, especially that of Mr. Walker, will have attractions -for those who delight to please the pallet with the juice of the grape. -And the porcelain works near by, where stone ware is manufactured from -the kaolin clay, may form the objective point of a pleasant excursion. -If one’s inclinations are to sport, a ride of a few miles from town in -any direction will bring one to good partridge cover, while the numerous -streams in the vicinity are fairly stocked with trout, jack, bream and -perch. Pic-nics in the pine woods, and excursions over the hills always -supply ladies with means of inhaling the healthful air and enjoying -invigorating exercise. - - -ATLANTA. - -From Aiken to Augusta, 16 miles, $1.00. From Augusta to Atlanta by the -Georgia railway, 171 miles, $8.50; 11 hours. - -_Hotels._--The National, on Peach Tree Street, $4.00 per day; the United -States and the American, opposite the depot, $3.00 per day. - -_Telegraph Office_ in Kimball’s Opera House. Post Office, corner of -Alabama and Broad streets. - -_Bathing House_ on Alabama street, near U. S. Hotel. - -_Circulating Library_ at the Young Men’s Library Association on Broad -street. - - * * * * * - -Atlanta has about 20,000 inhabitants. The water is pure, the air -bracing, and the climate resembles that of Northern Italy. The Walton -Springs are in the city, furnishing a strongly chalybeate water, much -used, and with great success, as a tonic. The fall and spring months are -peculiarly delightful, and the vicinity offers many pleasant excursions. - -Communication by rail either to Chattanooga and East Tennessee, or south -to Macon, etc., is convenient. - - - - -5.--FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH. - - -The tourist has the choice of the railway via Coosawhatchie, or via -Augusta, Georgia, or the steamers. The first mentioned road was -destroyed during the war, and is not yet in running order. - -Steamboats also leave Charleston every Thursday and Saturday, direct for -Fernandina, Jacksonville and Palatka, and should be chosen by those who -do not suffer from seasickness. They are roomy, and the table well -supplied. - - -SAVANNAH. - -_Hotels._--*Screven House, Pulaski House, both $4.00 a day. *Marshall -House, $3.00 per day, $15.00 per week, an excellent table. *Pavilion -Hotel, Mr. Noe. Proprietor; a quiet, pleasant house for invalids, $3.00 -per day. - -_Boarding Houses._--Mrs. McAlpin, South Broad street; Mrs. Kollock, -South Broad street; Mrs. Savage, Barnard Street; all $3.00 per day, -$14.00 per week. - -_Post Office and Telegraph Office_ on Bay street, near the Pulaski -House. - -_Street Cars_ start from the post office to various parts of the city. -Fare, 10 cents; 14 tickets for $1.00. Omnibuses meet the various trains, -and steamboats will deliver passengers anywhere in the city for 75 cents -each. - -_Livery Stables_ are connected with all the hotels. - -_Restaurants._--The best is the Restaurant Francais, in Whitaker Street, -between Bay and Bryan Streets. - -_Newspapers._--Daily _Savannah News_, Daily _Morning News_. - -_Bookstores._--J. Schreiner & Co., near the Pulaski House. (Brinton’s -_Guide-Book_, _Historical Record of Savannah_.) - -_Depots._--The Central Railroad depot is in the southwestern part of the -city, corner of Liberty and E. Broad Streets. The railroad from -Charleston has its terminus here. The Atlantic and Gulf Railroad is in -the south-eastern part of the city, corner of Liberty and E. Broad -Streets. - - * * * * * - -Savannah is situated in Chatham county, Ga., on a bluff, about forty -feet high, seven miles above the mouth of the river of the same name, on -its right bank. Its present population is estimated at 40,000. - -The city was founded by Gov. James Oglethorpe, in 1733. It played a -conspicuous part during the Revolution. With characteristic loyalty to -the cause of freedom the Council of Safety passed a resolution in 1776 -to burn the town rather than have it fall into the hands of the British. -Nevertheless, two years afterwards the royal troops obtained possession -of it by a strategic movement. In the autumn of 1779 the American forces -under General Lincoln, and the distinguished Polish patriot, Count -Casimir Pulaski, with their French allies under Count d’Estaing, made a -desperate but fruitless attempt to regain it by assault. Both the -foreign noblemen were wounded in a night assault on the works. Count -Pulaski mortally. The spot where he fell is where the Central Railroad -depot now stands. - -The chief objects of interest are the monuments. The *finest is to the -memory of Pulaski. It is in Chipewa square, and is a handsome shaft of -marble, surmounted by a statue of Liberty, and supported on a base of -granite. Its height is 55 feet; its date of erection 1853. - -An older and plainer monument, some fifty feet high, without -inscription, stands in Johnson square. It was erected in 1829, and is -known as the Greene and Pulaski monument. - -The city is beautifully laid out, diversified with numerous small -squares, with wide and shady streets. Broad Street and Bay Street have -each four rows of those popular southern shade trees known as the Pride -of India, or China trees (_Melia Azedarach_). - -A praiseworthy energy has supplied the city with excellent water from -public water works; and, in Forsyth Park, at the head of Bull Street, is -a fountain of quite elaborate workmanship. - -Some of the public buildings are well worth visiting. The Georgia -Historical Society has an excellent edifice, on Bryan Street, with a -library of 7,500 volumes, among which are said to be a number of -valuable manuscripts. - -The *Museum, on the northeast corner of Bull and Taylor streets, -contains a number of local curiosities. - -The Custom House is a handsome fire-proof structure of Quincy granite. - -The Exchange building, now used as the Mayor’s office, etc., offers, -from its top, the best view of the city. - -_Excursions._--Several days can be passed extremely pleasantly in short -excursions from the city. One of the most interesting of these will be -to - -*_Bonaventure Cemetery._--This is situated 3 miles from the city, on the -Warsaw river. A stately grove of live oaks, draped in the sombre weeds -by the Spanish moss, cast an appropriate air of pensiveness around this -resting place of past generations. A cab holding four persons to this -locality costs $8.00. - -_Thunderbolt_, a small town, (two hotels), 4½ miles south-east of the -city, on a creek of the same name, is worth visiting, chiefly for the -beautiful drive which leads to it. Cab fare for the trip, $8.00. - -_White Bluff_, on the Vernon river, 10 miles from the city has two -unpretending hotels, and is a favorite resort of the citizens on account -of the excellent shell road which connects it with the city. Cab fare -for the trip, $10.00. - -_Bethesda Orphan House_, also 10 miles distant, is erected on the site -chosen by the Rev. Mr. Whitfield, very early in the history of the -colony. Selina, the pious Countess of Huntington, took a deep interest -in its welfare as long as she lived, and it is pleasant to think that -now it is established on a permanent footing. - -_Jasper Spring_, 2 miles from the city, is pointed out as the spot where -the bold Sergeant Jasper, with one assistant, during the revolutionary -war, surprised and captured eight Britishers, and forced them to release -a prisoner. The thoughtless guard had stacked arms and proceeded to the -spring to drink, when the shrewd Sergeant who, anticipating this very -move, was hidden in the bushes near by, rushed forward, seized the -muskets, and brought the enemy to instant terms. - - - - -6. SAVANNAH TO JACKSONVILLE. - - -The tourist has the choice of three routes for this part of his journey. -He can take a sea steamer, and passing out the Savannah river, see no -more land until the low shores at the mouth of the St. John River come -in sight. Or he can choose one of several small steamboats which ply in -the narrow channels between the sea-islands and the main, touching at -Brunswick, Darien, St. Catharine, Fernandina, etc., (fare $10.00). Or -lastly he has the option of the railroad, which will carry him through -to Jacksonville in twelve hours and a half, in a first class sleeping -car. - -The channel along the coast lies through extensive salt marshes, -intersected by numerous brackish creeks and lagoons. The boats are -small, or they could not thread the mazes of this net-work of narrow -water-courses. The sea-islands, famous all over the world for their -long-staple cotton, have a sandy, thin soil, rising in hillocks and -covered with a growth of live-oak, water-oak, bay, gum and pine. Between -the islands and the main land the grassy marshes extend for several -miles. In the distance the western horizon is hedged by a low wall of -short-leaved pine. The sea islands are moderately healthy, but the main -land is wet, flat and sterile, and its few inhabitants are exposed to -the most malignant forms of malarial fever and pneumonia. - -On St. Catharine island is the plantation formerly owned by Mr. Pierce -Butler, and the scene of Mrs. Francis Kemble Butler’s well-known work, -“Life on a Georgia Plantation.” On Cumberland island, the most southern -of the sea-islands belonging to Georgia, is the Dungerness estate, 6000 -acres in extent, once owned by Gen. Nat. Greene, of Revolutionary fame, -and recently bought by Senator Sprague, of Rhode Island, for $10 per -acre. With proper cultivation it would yield magnificent crops of -sea-island cotton. - -_Fernandina_ on Amelia Island, the terminus of the Fernandina and Cedar -Keys Railroad, is a town of growing importance (pop. about 2,000; -hotels, Virginia House, containing the telegraph office; the Whitfield -House, both $3.00 per day; newspaper, the _Island City Weekly_.) This is -one of the old Spanish settlements, and the traces of the indigo fields -are still visible over a great part of the island. Fernandina-Oldtown is -about a mile north of the present site. - -The sub-tropical vegetation is quite marked on the island. Magnificent -oleanders, large live oaks, and dense growths of myrtle and palmettos -conceal the rather unpromising soil. The olive has been cultivated with -success, and there is no reason why a large supply of the best table oil -should not be produced here. - -A low shell mound covers the beach at Fernandina, and in the interior of -the island are several large Indian burial mounds. Several earthworks -thrown up during the late war overlook the town and harbor. Fernandina -harbor is one of the best in the South Atlantic Coast, landlocked and -safe. Its depth is 6½ fathoms, and the water on the bar at low tide is -14 feet. The tide rises from 6 to 7 feet. In spite of what seems its -more convenient situation, Fernandina does not seem destined to be a -rival of Jacksonville. - - - - -PART II. - -FLORIDA. - - - - -1. HISTORICAL. - - -Long before Columbus saw - - “the dashing, - Silver-flashing, - Surges of San Salvador,” - -a rumor was abroad among the natives of the Bahamas, of Cuba, and even -of Yucatan and Honduras, that in a land to the north was a fountain of -water, whose crystal waves restored health to the sick, and youth to the -aged. Many of the credulous islanders, forsaking their homes, ventured -in their frail canoes on the currents of the Gulf, and never returning, -were supposed to be detained by the delights of that land of perennial -youth. - -This ancient fame still clings to the peninsula. The tide of wanderers -in search of the healing and rejuvenating waters still sets thitherward, -and, with better fate than of yore, many an one now returns to his own, -restored to vigor and life. Intelligence now endorses what superstition -long believed. - -The country received its pretty and appropriate name, Terra florida, the -Flowery Land, from Juan Ponce de Leon, who also has the credit of being -its discoverer. He first saw its shores on Easter Sunday, March 27, -1513--not 1512, as all the text books have it, as on that year Easter -Sunday came on April 20th. - -At that time it was inhabited by a number of wild tribes, included in -two families, the Timucuas, who dwelt on the lower St. John, and the -Chahta-Muskokis, who possessed the rest of the country. In later times, -the latter were displaced by others of the same stock known as Seminoles -(_isti semoli_, wild men, or strangers). A remnant of these still exist, -several hundred in number, living on and around Lake Okee-chobee, in the -same state of incorrigible savagery that they ever were, but now -undisturbed and peaceful. - -The remains of the primitive inhabitants are abundant over the -Peninsula. Along the sea shores and water courses are numerous heaps of -shells, bones and pottery, vestiges of once populous villages; small -piles of earth and “old fields” in the interior still witness to their -agricultural character; and large mounds from ten to twenty-five feet in -height filled with human bones testify to the pious regard they felt -toward their departed relatives, and the care with which, in accordance -with the traditions of their race, they preserved the skeletons of the -dead. As for those “highways” and “artificial lakes” which the botanist -Bartram thought he saw on the St. John river, they have not been visible -to less enthusiastic eyes. Mounds of stones, of large size and enigmatic -origin, have also been found (Prof. Jeffries Wyman). - -For half a century after its discovery, no European power attempted to -found a colony in Florida. Then, in 1562, the celebrated French -Huguenot, Admiral de Coligny, sent over a number of his own faith and -nation, who erected a fort near the mouth of the St. John. As they were -upon Spanish territory, to which they had no right, and were peculiarly -odious to the Spanish temper by their religion, they met an early and -disastrous fate. They were attacked and routed in 1565 by a detatchment -of Spaniards under the command of Pedro Menendez de Aviles, a soldier of -distinction. The circumstance was not characterized by any greater -atrocity than was customary on both sides in the religious wars of the -sixteenth century, but it has been a text for much bitter writing since, -and was revenged a few years after by a similar massacre by a French -Protestant, Dominique de Gourgues, and a party of Huguenots. - -Pedro Menendez established at once (1565) the city of St. Augustine and -showed himself a capable officer. Under the rule of his successors the -Spanish sway gradually extended over the islands of the eastern coast, -and the region of middle Florida. The towns of St. Marks and Pensacola -were founded on the western coast, and several of the native tribes were -converted to Christianity. - -This prosperity was rudely interrupted in the first decade of the -eighteenth century by the inroads of the Creek Indians, instigated and -directed by the English settlers of South Carolina. The churches were -burned, the converts killed or scattered, the plantations destroyed, and -the priests driven to the seaport towns. - -The colony languished under the rule of Spain until, in 1763, it was -ceded to Great Britain. Some life was then instilled into it. Several -colonies were planted on the St. John river and the sea coast, and a -small garrison stationed at St. Marks. - -In 1770 it reverted once more to Spain, under whose rule it remained in -an uneasy condition until 1821, when it was purchased by the United -States for the sum of five million dollars. Gen. Andrew Jackson was the -first Governor, and treated the old inhabitants in his usual summary -manner. In 1824 the seat of government was fixed at Tallahassee, the -site of an old Indian town. - -At the time of the purchase there were about 4,000 Indians and refugee -negroes scattered over the territory. These very soon manifested that -jealousy of their rights, and resentment against the whites, which have -ever since been their characteristics. From the time of the cession -until the out-break of our civil struggle, the soil of Florida was the -scene of one almost continual border war. The natives gave ground very -slowly, and it was estimated that for every one of them killed or -banished beyond the Mississippi by our armies, the general government -expended ten thousand dollars. - - - - -2.--BOOKS AND MAPS. - - -The facts which I have here sketched in barest outline have been told at -length by many able writers. The visitor to the scene of so many -interesting incidents should provide himself with some or all of the -following works, which will divert and instruct him in many a lagging -hour: - -PARKMAN, _Pioneers of France in the New World_. This contains an -admirably written account of the Huguenot colony on the St. John. - -FAIRBANKS, _The Spaniards in Florida_. (Published by Columbus Drew, -Jacksonville, Florida.) An excellent historical account of the Spanish -colony. - -SPRAGUE, _History of the Florida War_. This is a correct and vivid -narrative of the struggle with the Seminoles. The book is now rarely met -with in the trade. - -GEN. GEORGE A. MCCALL, _Letters from the Frontiers_. (Lippincott & Co., -Philadelphia, 1868.) These letters are mostly from Florida, and contain -many interesting pictures of army life and natural scenery there. - -R. M. BACHE, _The Young Wrecker of the Florida Reef_. (Claxton, Remsen & -Haffelfinger, Philadelphia, 1869.) This is a “book for boys,” and is -interesting for all ages. The author was engaged on the Coast Survey, -and describes with great power and accuracy the animal and vegetable -life of the Southern coast. - -_Life of Audubon._ (Putnam & Son, 1869.) This contains a number of -letters of the great ornithologist while in Florida. - -A detailed description of the earlier works on the peninsula can be -found in a small work I published some years ago, entitled “_The -Floridian Peninsula, Its Literary History, Indian Tribes, and -Antiquities_.” (For sale by the publishers of the present book.) - -_On the Antiquities of the Peninsula._ Prof. Jeffries Wyman, of Harvard -College, published, not long since, a very excellent article in the -second volume of the _American Naturalist_. - -Every tourist should provide himself with a good State map of Florida. -The best extant is that prepared and published by Columbus Drew, of -Jacksonville, Florida, in covers, for sale by the publishers of this -work. Two very complete partial maps have been issued by the U. S. -government, the one from the bureau of the Secretary of War, in 1856, -entitled, “A Military Map of the Peninsula of Florida South of Tampa -Bay,” on a scale of 1 to 400,000, the other from the U. S. Coast Survey -office in 1864, drawn by Mr. H. Lindenkohl, embracing East Florida north -of the 29th degree, on a scale of 10 miles to the inch. The latter -should be procured by any one who wishes to depart from the usual routes -of tourists. - - - - -3. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF FLORIDA. - - 1. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. - 2. SOIL AND CROPS. - 3. CLIMATE AND HEALTH. - 4. VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL LIFE. - - -1. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. - -Florida is a peninsula extending abruptly from the mainland of the -continent in a direction a little east of south. It is nearly 400 miles -in length, and has an average width of 130 miles. Its formation is -peculiar. Every other large peninsula in the world owes its existence to -a central mountain chain, which affords a stubborn resistance to the -waves. Florida has no such elevation, and mainly a loose, low, sandy -soil. Let us study this puzzle. - -The Apalachian (usually and incorrectly spelled Appalachian) plain, -sloping from the mountains to the Gulf of Mexico, lies on a vast bed of -tertiary, limestone and sand rock. About the thirtieth parallel of -north latitude this plain sinks to the sea level, except in middle -Florida, where it still remains 200 feet and more in height. This -elevation gradually decreases and reaches the water level below the 28th -parallel, south of Tampa Bay. It forms a ridge or spine about sixty -miles in width, composed of a porous limestone somewhat older than the -miocene group of the tertiary rocks, a hard blueish limestone, and a -friable sand rock.[A] Around this spine the rest of the peninsula has -been formed by two distinct agencies. - -Between the ridge and the Atlantic ocean is a tract of sandy soil, some -forty miles in width, sloping very gently to the north. It is low and -flat, and is drained by the St. John river. So little fall has this -noble stream that 250 miles from its mouth it is only 12 miles distant -from an inlet of the ocean, and only 3 feet 6 inches above tide level, -as was demonstrated by the State survey made to construct a canal from -Lake Harney to Indian River. A section of the soil usually discloses a -thin top layer of vegetable mould, then from 3 to 6 feet of different -colored sand, then a mixture of clay, shells, and sand for several feet -further, when in many parts a curious conglomerate is reached, called -_coquina_, formed of broken shells and small pebbles cemented together -by carbonate of lime, no doubt of recent (post tertiary) formation. The -coquina is never found south of Cape Canaveral, nor north of the mouth -of the Matanzas river. - -[A] This “Back-Bone Ridge,” as it has been called, has a rounded and -singularly symmetrical form when viewed in cross section. Where the -Fernandina and Cedar Keys railroad crosses the peninsula, the highest -point, near Gainesville, is 180 feet in elevation, whence there is a -gradual slope, east and west. - - -For the whole of this distance a glance at the map will show that the -coast is lined by long, narrow inlets, separated from the ocean by still -narrower strips of land. These inlets are the “lagoons.” The heavy rains -wash into them quantities of sediment, and this, with the loose sand -blown by the winds from the outer shore, gradually fills up the lagoon, -and changes it into a morass, and at last into a low sandy swamp, -through which a sluggish stream winds to its remote outlet. Probably the -St. John river was at one time a long lagoon, and probably all the land -between the ridge described and the eastern sea has been formed by this -slow process. - -The southern portion of the peninsula is also very low, rarely being -more than six feet above sea level, but its slope, instead of being -northward, is generally westward. Much of the surface is muddy rather -than sandy, and is characterized by two remarkable forms of vegetable -life, the Everglades and the Big Cypress. - -The Everglades cover an area of about 4,000 square miles, and embrace -more than one half of the State south of Lake Okee-chobee. They present -to the eye a vast field of coarse saw-grass springing from a soil of -quicksand and soft mud, from three to ten feet deep. During the whole -year the water rests on this soil from one to four feet in depth, -spreading out into lakes, or forming narrow channels. The substratum is -a limestone, not tertiary, but modern and coralline. Here and there it -rises above the mud, forming “keys” or islands of remarkable fertility, -and on the east and south makes a continuous ridge along the ocean, one -to four miles wide, and from ten to fifteen feet high, which encloses -the interior low basin like a vast crescentic dam-breast. - -Lake Okee-chobee, 1,200 square miles in area, with an average depth of -twelve feet, is, in fact, only an extension of the Everglades. - -South of the Caloosa-hatchie river, between the Everglades and the Gulf, -extends the Big Cypress. This is a large swamp, fifty miles long and -thirty-five miles broad. Here the saw-grass gives way to groves of -cypress trees, with a rank and tangled undergrowth of vines. The soil is -either bog or quicksand, generally covered one or two feet deep with -stagnant water. The sun’s rays rarely penetrate the dense foliage, and -on the surface of the water floats a green slime, which, when disturbed, -emits a sickening odor of decay. Crooked pools and sluggish streams -traverse it in all directions, growing deeper and wider toward the Gulf -shore, where they cut up the soil into numberless segments, called the -Thousand Islands. - -The whole of this southern portion of the peninsula lies on a modern, -coral formation. The crescent-shaped ridge which forms the eastern and -southern boundary of the Everglades, commences north of Key Biscayne -Bay, and sweeps southwest to Cape Sable. From the same starting point, -another broken crescent of coralline limestone, but many miles longer, -extends to the Dry Tortugas, forming the Florida Keys. And beyond this -again some five or six miles, making a third crescent, is the Florida -Reef. Outside of the Reef, the bottom abruptly sinks to a depth of 800 -or 900 fathoms. Between the Reef and the Keys is the ship channel, -about 6 fathoms in depth; and between the Keys and the main land the -water is very shallow, and covers broad flats of white calcareous mud. -Between the coast-ridge and Lake Okee-chobee, the “Keys,” which are -scattered through the Everglades, are disposed in similar crescentic -forms, some seven regular concentric arcs having been observed. They are -all formed of the same character of coral rock as the present Reef and -Keys, and undoubtedly owe their existence to the same agency. Each of -these crescents was at one time a reef, until the industrious coral -animals built another reef further out in the water, when the older line -was broken up by the waves into small islands. Thus, for countless -thousands of years, has this work of construction been going on around -the extremity of the tertiary back bone ridge which at first projected -but a short distance into the waters. - -What, it may be asked, has impressed this peculiar and unusual -crescentic shape to the reefs? This is owing to the Gulf Stream. This -ocean-river rushes eastward through the Straits of Florida at the rate -of five or six miles an hour, yet it does not wash the reef. By some -obscure law of motion, an eddy counter-current is produced, moving -_westward_, close to the reef, with a velocity of one or two miles an -hour. Off Key West this secondary current is ten miles wide, with a -rapidity of two miles per hour. Its waters are constantly whitened by -the calcareous sands of the reef--the relics of the endless conflict -between the waves and the untiring coral insects. The slowly-built -houses of the latter are broken and tossed hither and thither by the -billows, until they are ground into powder, and scattered through the -waters. After every gale the sea, for miles on either side of the reef, -is almost milk-white with the ruins of these coral homes. - -But nature is ever ready with some compensation. The impalpable dust -taken up by the counter-current is carried westward, and gradually sinks -to the bottom of the gulf, close to the northern border of the gulf -stream. At length a bank is formed, reaching to within 80 or 90 feet of -the surface. At this depth the coral insect can live, and straightway -the bank is covered with a multitudinous colony who commence building -their branching structures. A similar process originated all the -crescent-shaped lines of Keys which traverse the Everglades and Big -Cypress. - - -2. SOIL AND CROPS. - -Much of the soil of Florida is not promising in appearance. The -Everglades and Cypress Swamps may be considered at present -agriculturally worthless. The ridge of sand and decomposed limestone -along the southern shore, from Cape Sable to Indian river, is capable, -however, of profitable cultivation, and offers the best field in the -United States for the introduction of tropical plants, especially -coffee. Its area is estimated at about 7,000,000 acres. - -The northern portion of the Peninsula is composed of “scrubs” (dry -sterile tracts covered with thickets of black-jack, oak, and spruce), -pine lands and hammocks (not hummocks--the latter is a New England word -with a different signification). The hammocks are rich river bottoms, -densely timbered with live oak, magnolia, palmetto, and other trees. -They cannot be surpassed for fertility, and often yield 70 to 80 bushels -of corn to the acre with very imperfect tillage. Of course, they are -difficult to clear, and often require drainage. - -The pine lands, which occupy by far the greater portion of the State, -make at first an unfavorable impression on the northern farmer. The -sandy pine lands near the St. John, are of deep white siliceous sand, -with little or no vegetable mould through it. The greater part of it -will not yield, without fertilizing, more than 12 or 15 bushels of corn -to the acre. In the interior, on the central ridge, the soil is a -siliceous alluvium on beds of argillaceous clay and marl. The limestone -rocks crop out in many places, and could readily be employed as -fertilizers, as could also the marl. Red clay, suitable for making -bricks, is found in the northern counties, and a number of brick yards -are in operation. Over this soil a growth of hickory is interspersed -with yellow pine, and much of the face of the country is rolling. By -mixing the hammock soil with the sand, an admirable loam is formed, -suited to raising vegetables and vines. - -Persons who visit Florida with a view to farming or gardening, should -not expect to find it a land of exhuberant fertility, that will yield -immense crops with little labor. East Florida is as a whole not a -fertile country in comparison with South Carolina or Illinois, and -probably never will be highly cultivated. On the other hand, they must -not be discouraged by the first impressions they form on seeing its -soil. Labor can do wonders there. The climate favors the growth of -vegetables and some staples, but labor, _hard work_, is just as -necessary as in Massachusetts. Middle and West Florida have much better -lands. - -The leading crops of the State are corn and cotton. Of the latter, the -improved short staple varieties are preferred, the long staple -nourishing only in East Florida. Some experiments have been tried with -Egyptian cotton, but on too small a scale to decide its value. The enemy -of the cotton fields is the caterpillar which destroys the whole crop in -a very short time. Nor can anything be done to stop its ravages. In the -vicinity of Tampa Bay and Indian River the sugar cane is successfully -raised, quite as well as in Louisiana. In good seasons it is also a very -remunerative crop in the northern counties, as it yields as much as -fifteen barrels of first class syrup to the acre, besides the sugar. - -Tobacco, which before the war was raised in considerable quantities in -Florida, has been much neglected since. Good Cuba seed has been -introduced, however, and some of the old attention is paid to it. The -character of soil and climate of certain portions of Florida, especially -the southeastern portion, is not very unlike that of the famed Vuelta -Abajo, and with good seed, and proper care in the cultivation and curing -of the leaf, it might be grown of a very superior quality. - -The climate is too warm for wheat, but rye and oats yield full crops, -though they are but little cultivated.--Sweet potatoes, yams, peas, and -groundnuts are unfailing, and of the very best qualities. The vine -yields abundantly, and it is stated on good authority that two thousand -gallons of wine per acre have been obtained from vineyards of the -Scuppernong grape in Leon county. - -Apples grow only to a limited extent, some being found in the northern -counties. Peaches, pears, apricots, oranges, limes, lemons, etc., are -well suited to the soil and climate. The orange has two enemies, the -insect called the _coccus_, and the frost. The former seems disappearing -of late years, but the frosts have become more severe and more frequent, -so that north of the 28th degree, the orange crop is not dependable. - -The tropical plants, such as coffee, indigo, sesal hemp, etc., can -undoubtedly be cultivated with success on the southern and southeastern -coast, but hitherto, no serious attempt at their introduction has been -made. For further particulars under this head, see a pamphlet of 151 -pages prepared by Hon. John S. Adams, and published by the State, in -1869, entitled, “_Florida, its Climate, its Soil, and Productions_.” - - -3. CLIMATE AND HEALTH. - -In regard to climate, Florida is in some respects unsurpassed by any -portion of the United States. The summers are not excessively hot, the -average temperature of the months of June, July, and August, being at -Tallahassee 79 degrees, Fah.; at St. Augustine, 80 degrees; Cedar Keys, -79 degrees; Tampa, 80 degrees; Miami, 81; and Key West, 82 degrees. The -winters are delightful, the temperature of the three winter months -averaging as follows: Tallahassee, 57 degrees; St. Augustine, 58 -degrees; Cedar Keys, 60 degrees; Tampa, 61 degrees; Miami, 67 degrees, -Key West, 70 degrees. - -The summer heats are debilitating, especially in the interior. On the -coast they are tempered by the sea-breeze, which rises about 10 a. m. No -part of the State is entirely free from frosts. In Jacksonville they -occur about once a week during the month of January, while at Miami they -only happen once in several years. Now and then a severe frost occurs, -which destroys the orange groves far to the south. One such in 1767 -destroyed all the orange trees at Fernandina and St. Augustine; another -in 1835 cut them down as far south as New Smyrna; in December, 1856, ice -was noted on the Miami river; and in December, 1868, there was such an -unprecedented cold snap that Lake Griffin, on the upper Oklawaha, bore -ice one-and-a-half inches thick. The orange crop was destroyed as far up -the St. John as Enterprise, and most of the trees ruined. On Indian -river, however, the cold was not felt to a damaging extent. - -The nights in winter are cool, and in the interior accompanied with -heavy dews. - -In summer, the prevailing winds are east and south-east, being portions -of the great air currents of the trade winds. Thunder storms are -frequent. In winter, variable winds from the north, northeast, and -north-west prevail. At times they rise to violent gales of several days -duration, called northers. These are most frequent on the west coast. - -The seasons of Florida are tropical in character, one being the dry and -the other the wet season. The annual rain-fall averages from fifty to -sixty inches. Three-fourths of this fall between April and October. -Sometimes there is nearly as much rain in the month of June as during -the six winter months together. Two inches and a-half is a fair average -each for the latter. The air is usually well charged with moisture, but -owing to the equability of the temperature, this would hardly be -suspected. Fogs are almost unknown, the sky is serene, the air clear, -and no sensation of dampness is experienced. The hygrometer alone -reminds us of how nearly the atmosphere is saturated with warm, watery -vapor. - -In the concluding chapters of this work I shall discuss at length the -adaptation of the climate to invalids, and shall here speak of it -chiefly as it affects residents. - -The prevailing diseases are of miasmatic origin. Dysentery of mild type, -pneumonia and diarrhœa are occasional visitors, but the most common -enemy to health is the swamp poison. Intermittent and remittent fevers -are common along the fresh water streams. On the sea coast they are -rare, and after the month of October they disappear, but in the summer -and early autumn they are very prevalent in some portions of the State. -They are, however, neither more severe nor more frequent than in the -lowlands of all the Gulf States, or in southern Indiana and Illinois. - -These complaints are characteristic of new settlements, usually -disappearing after the land has been cleared a few years. They can be -generally avoided by care in habits of life, and the moderate use of -some bitter tonic. All who are exposed should be on their guard, -avoiding excesses, over-work, getting chilled, the night dews, damp -clothing, etc. - -One fall I ascended the Ocklawaha river in a “pole-barge”--a large scow -propelled by poles. At night we fastened the boat to a tree, and slept -at some neighboring house. The captain and several of the “darkies” had -a diurnal shake, with great regularity, and I entered hardly a single -house from Palatka to Ocala in which one or more of the family were not -complaining of the same disease. I had no quinine with me, and in -default of it used as a preventive a strong tincture of the peel of the -bitter-sweet orange. Either through its virtues or good luck, I escaped -an attack, quite to the surprise of my companions. I repeat, however, -that during the winter there is no danger from this source, and even -during the sickly season an enlightened observance of the rules of -health will generally protect the traveler. - - -4. VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL LIFE. - -The traveler who, for the first time, visits a southern latitude, has -his attention most strongly arrested by the new and strange forms of -vegetable life. I shall mention some of those which give the scenery of -Florida its most peculiar features. - -The most abundant is the saw palmetto, _chamærops Adansonii_. This -vigorous plant is found in all parts of the peninsula, flourishing -equally well in the pine barren and the hammock. It throws up its -sharp-edged leaves some four or five feet in length, from a large, round -root, which is, in fact, a trunk, extending along the surface of the -ground. The young shoots and inner pith of the root are edible, and were -often eaten by the Indians. - -The cabbage palm, another species of _Chamærops_, is one of the most -beautiful of trees. It raises its straight, graceful trunk to a height -of 50, 60 and 100 feet, without a branch, and then suddenly bursts into -a mass of dark green, pendant fronds. In the center of this mass, -enveloped in many folds, is found the tender shoot called the “cabbage.” -It tastes like a raw chestnut, and was highly prized by the Indians. -This palm is not found north of St. Augustine, and is only seen in -perfection about Enterprise, and further south. - -The live oak and cypress are the tenants of the low grounds. The former -has a massive trunk, much esteemed for ship timber, spreading branches, -and small green leaves. It is a perennial, and is not found farther -north than South Carolina. The cypress stands in groups. Its symmetrical -shaft rises without branches to a considerable height, and then spreads -out numerous horizontal limbs, bearing a brown and scanty foliage. The -base of the trunk is often enlarged and distorted into strange shapes, -while scattered through the swamps are abortive attempts at trees, a -foot or two thick and five or six feet in height, ending in a round, -smooth top. These are called “cypress knees.” - -Two parasitic plants abound in the forests, the mistletoe and the -Spanish moss, _tillandsia usneoides_. The former has bright green leaves -and red berries. The latter attaches itself to the cypress and live oak, -and hangs in long gray wreaths and ragged masses from every bough in the -low lands. - -The southern shores and islands are covered with the mangrove, a species -of the _rhizophora_. It is admirably adapted to shore building. The seed -grows to a length of five or six inches before it leaves its calyx, when -it resembles in form and color an Havana cigar. When it drops into the -water it floats about until it strikes a beach, where it rapidly takes -root and shoots out branches. Each branch sends down its own root, and -soon the shore is covered with a dense growth, which in time rises to a -height of twenty or thirty feet, and prevents the sand from any further -shifting. - -Two varieties of a plant called by the Seminoles _koonta_, bread, grow -luxuriantly in the south. The red koonta, the _smilax china_ of -botanists, is a thrifty, briary vine, with roots like a large potato. -The white koonta, a species of _zamia_, has large fern-like leaves and a -root like a parsnip. Both were used by the Indians as food, and yield -from 25 to 30 per cent. of starch. - -At some seasons, dense masses of vegetation form on the lakes and rivers -and drift hither and thither with the wind, natural floating islands. -They are composed chiefly of a water plant, the _pistia spathulata_, -with the stalks and leaves of the water lily, _nymphea nilumbo_. - -The bitter-sweet orange grows wild in great quantities along the -streams. It is supposed to be an exotic which has run wild, as none of -the species was found in the New World, and no mention is made of the -orange in the early accounts of the peninsula, as undoubtedly would have -been the case had it then flourished. The fruit has a taste not unlike -the Seville orange, and is freely eaten by the inhabitants. - -The cork tree, the sesal hemp, and other tropical plants have been -introduced, and no doubt could be successfully cultivated in the extreme -south. The coacoanut palm grows vigorously at Key West, and on the -adjacent mainland. - -The _animal life_ of Florida indicates its proximity to the tropics. -Alligators are now scarce in the lower St. John, but are found in great -numbers in the interior. They are by no means dangerous. The largest I -ever saw was nearly 15 feet in length. - -The manatee, or sea cow, an herbivorous cetacean, midway between fish -and flesh, once abounded in Florida. When Audubon visited the -peninsula, his guide boasted of having killed “hundreds” of them, and -their bones are often found as far north as the Suwannee river. The -Manatee spring and Manatee river bear record in their names to their -former abundance. Now, I think, they are nearly extinct. A few still -linger in the extreme south. Two were caught on the Indian river in the -commencement of 1869, and exhibited in Jacksonville and Savannah. - -The gopher, _testudo polyphemus_, is a large land turtle found in the -pine woods, and is esteemed as an article of diet. The deer, panther, -black bear, black and grey wolf are quite common. - -Beautiful perroquets, wild turkeys, white and rose-colored curlew, the -latter prized for their tinted wings, pelicans, cormorants, herons, -fish-crows, and cranes are seen in great numbers. - -The moccason and rattle-snake are the only venomous serpents. The former -is most feared, but I do not remember to have heard of many deaths from -the bite of either. Scorpions, centipedes and tarantulas abound, but are -not very poisonous, and never fatally so. The mosquitoes are at times -dreadfully annoying, and there is no escape from them. Sand-flies, -ticks, and knats also mar the pleasures of camp life, but the true -hunter rises superior to such inconveniences. - -The best river fish is the trout--not the speckled native of the -northern streams, but of good flavor, and “game” when hooked. The -mullet--a fish about a foot long--swarms on the coast in incredible -numbers. The pompano is considered almost as good as the salmon. Catfish -are large and coarse. - - - - -4. THE ST. JOHN RIVER, ST. AUGUSTINE, AND INDIAN RIVER. - - -The St. John river is about 400 miles in length, and from two to three -miles wide, as far up as Lake George. It is, in fact, rather an arm of -the sea than a river, and probably is the remains of an ancient lagoon. -Its current is about one mile an hour, and the slope of its bed so -little that at such a distance from its mouth as at Lake Monroe, a -careful survey showed that it was but three feet six inches above sea -level. The tides are perceptible as far as Lake George, and its water -more or less brackish at least this far. This may be partly owing to -several large salt springs which empty into it. Its waters are of a -light coffee-color, frequently covered with a perceptible scum. Above -Lake George they are pleasant to the taste, but do not easily quench the -thirst, apparently owing to the salts of various kinds in solution. - -Contrary to all the other large streams in the United States, the St. -John flows nearly due south until within fifteen miles of its mouth, -when it turns abruptly to the east, entering the Atlantic at 30 degrees -24 seconds, north latitude. For this peculiarity of its course, the -Chahtas named it _Il-la-ka_, corrupted into _Welaka_ by the whites. Mr. -Buckingham Smith asked an intelligent native what the word meant. He -answered slowly: “It hath its own way, is alone, and contrary to every -other.” - -The only important tributary it receives is the Oklawaha. They each -drain a row of numerous ponds, lakes, and marshes, and are separated by -the Thlauhatke, or White Hills, the highest hills in the peninsula, and -an elevated sandy ridge, covered with scruboak, known as the “Eteniah -scrub.” - -The St. John was discovered in 1562, by Jean Ribaut, leader of the -Huguenot colony of Admiral Coligny. He named it the River May, having -entered it in that month. In the Spanish chronicles it is referred to as -the Rio de San Matteo (St. Matthew). When it was named San Juan, does -not appear, but the English took this name and translated it into the -present appellation. - -In accordance with the best usage of our geographical writers, I shall -omit the possessive sign, and speak of it as the St. John river; and in -mentioning localities on the right or left bank, the reader is notified -that while geographically these terms are used as if a person were -_descending_ the river, for the convenience of the traveler I use them -as of one _ascending_ it. - -The _mouth_ of the St. John is hardly a mile wide, and is impeded by a -shifting sand bar, having rarely more than seven feet of water at low -tide. The entrance is by a southerly pass, which leaves the course of -the stream concealed by the shore of Baton island, on the north. This -island is settled by a number of river pilots with their families, hardy -and worthy people. On the southern shore the tourist sees the old and -new lighthouses, and a row of brilliantly white sand dunes extending -inland a mile or more. - -Baton Island passed, an extensive salt marsh is seen to form the -northern bank of the river; through this numerous sluggish streams wind -their way, forming part of the “inside, passage” to Fernandina. Near the -entrance of this passage a number of symmetrical mounds, from 20 to 50 -feet in height, strike the eye. These are known as “The Sisters,” or -more prosaically as the “Oyster Banks,” as, on examination, they prove -to be composed almost exclusively of broken oyster shells, covered with -a tangled low shrubbery. No doubt they are relics of the many glorious -oyster feasts indulged in by the indigenes in times gone by. I regret -that they were not visited by Prof. Jeffries Wyman, who has given us so -excellent an account of the “Fresh-Water-Shell-Heaps of the St. John’s -River, East Florida,” (Salem, Mass., 1868). - -Having passed the bar, the river rapidly widens. About six miles from -the entrance the channel runs close along the base of a hill or headland -of moderate height, covered with pine, cedar, etc. This is *_St. John’s -Bluff_, and is unquestionably the site of Fort Caroline, the settlement -of Coligny’s band of Huguenots in 1562. - -A tragic interest surrounds this spot. Here, in 1564, Rene de -Laudonniere established the colony of French Protestants, intending to -reclaim a portion of this vast wilderness. His action was soon reported -at the jealous court of Spain. - -Phillip II. at once despatched Pedro Menendez de Aviles, an accomplished -soldier and earnest Catholic, to root out the feeble colony. It was done -only too well. In the excitement of a surprise, Sept. 19th, 1565, the -orders of Menendez to spare the women, the old men, and the children -were disregarded by the furious soldiery, and nearly every one was -massacred. Laudonniere and a few others escaped by scrambling down the -rough and thorn-covered eastern face of the bluff, and wading through -the marshes to the mouth of the river, where they reached their ships. -They bore the distressing tidings to France. The ruler of that realm, -the projector of the massacre of St. Bartholemew, and the son of -Catharine de Medicis, was not the one to trouble himself about the death -of a few Huguenots who had encroached on foreign soil. But the stain of -unavenged blood did not remain on France. A private gentleman, Dominique -de Gourgues, fitted out an expedition in 1568. Suddenly appearing before -Fort Caroline, then manned by Spanish troops, he attacked and routed the -garrison and burned the structure. As it was reported that Menendez had -inscribed on a tablet that the massacre of the Huguenots was not done -“as to Frenchmen but to heretics;” so De Gourgues returned the grim -courtesy, and left an inscription that the dead men around had been -slain “not as Spaniards, but as traitors, thieves and murderers.” - -In 1856, some copper coins were found near here bearing the inscription: - - KAROLUS ET JOANNA RE. - -They were identified by Mr. Buckingham Smith as of the reign of Carlos -I. (Charles V.) and Donna Juanna, and therefore date from about 1550. - -More recently a coin of about the same period, and from the same spot, -but with a different and not fully legible inscription was exhibited to -the Numismatic and Antiquarian Society of Philadelphia. - -During the late civil war the Bluff was fortified by a detachment of -Confederate troops, and for some days held against the gunboats of the -United States forces. At length they were out-flanked by a party of -Union soldiers, who made their way in the rear by the margin of the -swamp, and the work was surrendered. - -A few miles beyond the bluff the boat stops at - - -YELLOW BLUFF. - -It has a post office and one small boarding-house, ($8.00 per week,) -about 40 inhabitants, mostly engaged in fishing. Near by is a small -fort, built during the recent war, and on the opposite bank of the -river, on a plantation called New Castle, are an Indian mound and the -vestiges of an ancient, quadrilateral earthwork of Spanish origin. - -Yellow Bluff was first chosen by Col. I. D. Hart as the city which he -proposed to build on the St. John, but as he found some marsh land near -which he thought might prove disadvantageous to such a large city as he -contemplated founding, he passed further up the stream and built his -cabin on the spot now known as the “Cow’s Ford,” where the King’s Road -in the old days crossed the river and connected St. Augustine with the -northern settlements, twenty-five miles above the bar. This spot, then -occupied by a few straggling whites and half breeds, is now the site of -the flourishing city of - - -JACKSONVILLE. - -_Hotels._--*St. James, on the public square, with airy piazzas, $4.00 a -day; *Taylor House, fronts the river; *Price House, close to the -railroad depot; St. John’s House, in the center of the city; Howard -House; Cowart House; Union House; Florida House; *Rochester House, on -the bluff south of the town; from $2.00 to $3.00 a day. - -_Boarding Houses._--Mrs. Freeland, Mrs. Hodgson, Mrs. Alderman opposite -the Taylor House, and many others. - -_Newspapers._ The _Florida Union_, repub.; _Mercury and Floridian_; -_Florida Land Register_. - -_Bookseller._--COLUMBUS DREW, publisher of _Brinton’s Guide-Book of -Florida and the South_. Mr. Drew makes a specialty of keeping works on -Florida. - -_Churches_ of all the principal denominations. - -Jacksonville, so named after General Andrew Jackson, has now a -population of 7,000 souls, and is rapidly increasing that number. It is -destined to be the most important city in Florida, as it is already the -largest. It is located between two creeks which fall into the St. John -about a mile and a quarter apart. These form the present corporation -limits, but several suburbs or additions have been recently formed -beyond these streams. Brooklyn and Riverside are on the bank southwest -of the town; Scottsville, immediately east of the eastern creek, is the -principal location of the large saw mills which constitute one of the -most important industries of the city; Wyoming is on the bluff one and a -half miles northeast; and finally La Villa is a small suburb on an -island to the west. - -Many of the residences of Jacksonville are substantially built of brick -manufactured from native clay, but wood is the prevailing material. -Several handsome residences are conspicuous from the river, and every -season a number of elegant cottages are added to the town. It is a -favorite residence for invalids during the winter months, on account of -its superior accommodations and ease of access. Indeed, too many of them -remain here who would be improved by a nearer approach to the extreme -south. The sight of so many sick often affects one unfavorably. - -The streets of Jacksonville are sandy, and the vicinity only moderately -fertile. The health of the city is good at all seasons, miasmatic -disease not being common. There was an epidemic of yellow fever in 1857, -but it has never since returned. - -During the war Jacksonville suffered severely. It was first partially -burned by the Confederates, then three separate times occupied by the -Union troops, the third time catching fire in the assault. About half a -dozen blocks of houses were then burned, including the Catholic and -Episcopal churches. Of course the result of these experiences was little -short of desolation. Grass grew waist high in the streets, and the few -cattle that remained found for themselves stalls in the deserted stores -and houses. Now, however, one can hardly credit the fact that such was -ever the case. - -Steamboats leave Jacksonville for Enterprise (206 miles), about every -other day. One line is owned by Capt. Brock, who for many years has run -the steamer “Darlington” up and down the river. The accommodations on -all the steamers are fair, and no one should omit to make the round -trip, even if he does not tarry on the road. Fare to Enterprise, $9.00. - -About a mile above this city the river widens once more. The banks are -usually 3 or 4 feet high, thickly set with live oak, pine and cypress. -Here and there the pine barren cuts across the hammock to the river. In -such places the banks are 8 or 10 feet high, and the tall yellow pine -with an abundant undergrowth of palmetto gives same variety to the -otherwise monotonous view. 15 miles from Jacksonville, on the left -(east) hand is the small town of - - -MANDARIN. - -_Post Office._ No hotel. Boarding can be had with Mr. Chas. F. Reed, -near the landing. Mr. Foote, the postmaster, will give further -information about the chance for accommodations in private families. A -new School house and church. The name is said to have been derived from -the Mandarin or China orange introduced here. This little place has -about a dozen houses and a back country three or four miles in extent. -The location is pleasing and the soil good. Several flourishing orange -groves can be seen from the river. One of them about six acres in extent -is owned by Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, who has a pleasant country house -here, and visits it every winter. It stands close to the river, on a -bluff about 12 feet high. A little higher up the river the Marquis de -Talleyrand has laid out handsome grounds. - -This is one of the localities associated with the atrocities of border -warfare. In December, 1841, the Seminole Indians attacked and burnt the -town and massacred the inhabitants almost to the last soul. “For sixteen -hours,” says Captain Sprague in his account of the occurrence, “the -savages, naked and painted, danced around the corpses of the slain.” - -Above Mandarin the river narrows and then again expands, the banks -continuing of the same character. Ten miles above, on the right (west) -bank is - - -HIBERNIA. - -*_Hotel_, Mrs. Fleming, one of the best on the river, accommodates about -35 persons, $2.50 per day, $15.00 per week. This very pleasant spot is -on an island, about five miles long, immediately north of the entrance -of Black Creek. It is separated from the mainland by a body of water -known as Doctor’s Lake, which, toward its southern extremity, is lost in -a broad marsh. The “river walk” near the boarding house is a delightful -promenade about three-fourths of a mile long under the spreading -branches of noble live oaks. The hotel is near the landing, which is on -the east side of the island. Visitors can readily obtain boats, and the -vicinity offers many attractive spots for short excursions, picnics, and -fishing parties. Rooms should be engaged by letter. - -Three miles above Hibernia is - - -MAGNOLIA. - -This large building was erected by Dr. Benedict in 1851 with special -reference to the wants of invalids, and their treatment under medical -supervision. During the war it was used for various purposes and was -much injured, but it has now been thoroughly refitted by a company, and -placed under the charge of Dr. Rogers, formerly of Worcester, Mass., a -capable and judicious physician, who proposes to continue it as a -sanitarium. The building can accommodate comfortably about 50 boarders. -The position is agreeable, a majestic oak grove shading the grounds, -while at a little distance the pine forest scatters its aromatic odors -in the air. - -Divided from it by a small creek, but 2 miles above as the river runs, -is - - -GREEN COVE SPRING. - -_Hotels._ Green Cove House, by Mr. J. Ramington, and boarding houses by -Captain Henderson, and Captain Glinskie, all said to be well kept; fare -about $15.00 per week. This spring has been long celebrated for its -mineral properties. It is sulphurous, and has been found of value in -chronic rheumatism, cutaneous disease and dyspepsia. The temperature is -78 Fah. at all seasons. The basin varies in diameter from 35 to 40 feet -at different points. The water rushes up with force forming what is -called the “boil.” Recently a portion of the bottom of the spring gave -way, and the orifice through which the water rises was covered. But the -earth was cleared out, and the “boil” re-instated. Facilities for -bathing are afforded, though not to that extent which were desirable. - -12 miles above green Cove on the left bank is - - -PICOLATA. - -Boarding with Mr. T. F. Bridier. This is the station where passengers to -St. Augustine land. It is much to be regretted that there is no hotel -here, and only poor and insufficient accommodations in the house owned -by the stage company. Usually but one line of stages runs to St. -Augustine, and they are often densely crowded, and most uncomfortable. A -second line was put on in Jan., 1869. The usual fare to St. Augustine is -$3.00; distance 18 miles. By competition it has been reduced to $1.00. - - -FROM PICOLATA TO ST. AUGUSTINE - -the road leads through an open pine country with an undergrowth of -palmettoes. Here and there a clump of cypress, with a tangled mass of -briars and vines around their trunks, diversifies the scene. The soil is -miserably poor, and hardly a dozen houses are passed in the whole -distance. Deep white sand obstructs the stage, and not so rarely as one -wishes the wheels strike a pine or palmetto root with a most unpleasant -effect upon the passengers, especially if they are invalids. After 3½ -hours of this torture, the stage is checked by the Sebastian river, over -which a miserable ferry boat conveys the exhausted tourist who at length -finds himself in St. Augustine. - - -ST. AUGUSTINE. - -_Hotels_: Florida House (dear and poor,) Magnolia House, fine piazza -(grounds recently fitted up.) About $4.00 per day, _slight_ reduction by -the month. - -_Boarding Houses_: Mrs. Abbot, Mrs. Fatio, Mrs. Gardner, Mrs. Brava, -Miss Dummitt. Charges, $15.00 to $20.00 per week. As a rule, the tables -of the boarding houses are better kept than those of the hotels. -Families can rent houses by the month, and sometimes furnished rooms, -and thus live much cheaper. Apply to B. E. Carr, J. L. Phillips, or John -Long. - -_Billiard Saloon_, at Delot’s Restaurant. - -_Post Office_ on the Plaza, mail tri-weekly. Telegraph office near the -market house on the Plaza. - -_Newspaper_--_St. Augustine Examiner_, weekly. _Reading Room_ at the -editor’s office, 25 cts. a week. - -_Drug Store_--Dr. J. P. Mackay. - -_Military Music_--On the Plaza every other night. - -_Churches_--Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist chapel -opposite the Magnolia House, Colored Baptist. - -_Bathing-House_, on Bay Street, white flag for ladies, red flag for -gentlemen, on alternate days. Season ticket $5.00. - -_Local Histories._--*Fairbanks, The Spaniards in Florida, (1868, the -best, published by Columbus Drew, Jacksonville, Fla.); Sewall, Sketches -of St. Augustine, 1848, (illustrated); St. Augustine, Florida, by an -English visitor, (1869, by Mrs. Yelverton; inaccurate). - -St. Augustine (population 1,200 white, 600 black), the oldest settlement -in the United States, was founded in 1565, by Pedro Menendez, a Spanish -soldier, born in the city of Aviles. The site originally chosen was -south of where the city now stands, but the subsequent year (1566) a -fort was erected on the present spot. It received its name because -Menendez first saw the coast of Florida on St. Augustine’s day. - -Little is known of its early history. In 1586 it was burned by Sir -Francis Drake; and in 1665, Captain Davis, an English buccaneer, sacked -and plundered it without opposition, the inhabitants, numbering at that -time a few hundred, probably fleeing to the fort. This building, which -had formerly been of logs, was commenced of stone about 1640. - -As it was found that the sea was making inroads upon the town, about the -end of the seventeenth century, a sea-wall was commenced by the Spanish -Governor, Don Diego de Quiroga y Losada, extending from the Fort to the -houses, all of which, at that time, were south of the Plaza. The top of -this first sea-wall can still be seen in places along Bay street, -occupying nearly the middle of the street. - -Early in the last century, the English in Carolina, in alliance with the -Creek (Muskoki) Indians commenced a series of attacks on the Spanish -settlements. In 1702, Governor Moore made a descent on St. Augustine by -land and sea, burnt a portion of the town, and destroyed all the -plantations in the vicinity. The inhabitants once more fled to the -castle, which, we are told, was surrounded by a very deep and broad -moat. But the priests had not time to remove the church plate. This, and -much other booty, fell into Gov. Moore’s hands--all of which he kept for -himself to the great disgust of his companions in arms. - -Again, in 1725, Col. Palmer, of Carolina, at the head of 300 whites and -Indians attacked and ravaged the Spanish settlements, completely -annihilating their field-husbandry, burning the country houses, and -forcing the inhabitants of St. Augustine to flee as usual to the castle. - -In 1732, Governor Oglethorpe founded the colony of Georgia, on the -Savannah river. Eight years afterwards he made his memorable attack on -St. Augustine. At that date the city numbered 2,143 inhabitants, -including the garrison (the latter probably about one half the whole -number.) The city was intrenched, with salient angles and redoubts, the -space enclosed being about half a mile long and quarter of a mile wide. -The castle mounted 50 pieces of brass cannon. Its walls were of stone, -casemated, with four bastions. The moat was 40 feet wide, and twelve -feet deep. Governor Oglethorpe, therefore, undertook a difficult task -when he set out in midsummer to besiege a place of this strength. He -planted his principal batteries on Anastasia island, where their remains -are still distinctly traceable, and bombarded castle and city with -considerable vigor for 20 days. He discovered, however, to his -mortification, that his shot produced hardly any more effect on the -coquina rock of which the walls were built, than on so much sand. After -prolonging the siege 38 days, (June 13--July 20, 1740,) he withdrew. - -The exterior of the works was finally completed by Don Alonzo Fernando -Hereda, in 1756, since which time no alterations of importance have been -made. - -St. Augustine, always the capital of the province during the Spanish -supremacy, changed hands with the whole peninsula in 1763, 1781, and -1821. It had a temporary prosperity during the first Seminole war, when -it was used as a military and naval station. In 1862 the naval force of -the United States took possession of it, without resistance, and a -garrison of New Hampshire volunteers was stationed there. - -A large percentage of the natives show traces of Spanish blood. They are -usually embraced under the name “Minorcans.” - -In 1767 a speculative Englishman, Dr. Turnbull, brought over a colony of -about 1200 Greeks, Italians, Corsicans and Minorcans, and settled near -New Smyrna. After a few years, wearied with his tyranny, most of those -who survived,--not more in all than 600,--removed to St. Augustine. They -were a quiet, somewhat industrious, and ignorant people, and many of -their descendants much mixed in blood still live in St. Augustine. Their -language is fast dying out. The young people speak only English. The -following verse from the _Fromajardis_, or Easter Song, was written down -in 1843. The italic _e_ is the neutral vowel. - - “Sant Gabiel - Qui portaba la ambasciado - Dee nostro rey del cel, - Estaran vos prenada - Ya omitiada - Tu o vais aqui surventa - Fia del Dieu contenta - Para fe lo que el vol - Disciar_e_m lu dol - Cantar_e_m aub ’alagria - Y n’arem a da - Las pascuas a Maria, - O Maria.” - -I have no doubt but that this is somewhat incorrect, as I am informed -that the ordinary language of the old natives is comparatively pure -Spanish. - -St. Augustine is built on a small Peninsula, between the St. Sebastian -River, itself an arm of the sea, and the Bay. Its plan is that of an -oblong parallelogram, traversed longitudinally by two principal streets, -which are intersected at right angles by cross streets. The Isthmus -connecting the Peninsula to the main is on the north, and is -strengthened by a stone causeway. The ruins of a suburb, called the -North City, are visible near it. Most of the streets are narrow, without -sidewalks, and shaded by projecting balconies. - -On the east is the harbor, a sheet of water about eight fathoms in -depth, known as the Matanzas river. It is separated from the ocean by -Anastasia, or Fish Island, a narrow tract of land about fourteen miles -long. The inlet is variable in depth, but rarely averages over five -feet. - -The principal buildings are of _Coquina_ rock. This is a concretion of -fragments of shells, of recent formation. It extends along the east -coast for about a hundred and fifty miles, in some places rising above -the surface level, at others covered with several feet of sand. In one -spot, near St. Augustine, it rests upon a peat bog. The quarries are on -Anastasia Island, and are worth visiting. - -Near the center of the town is the *Plaza, or square. In its midst is an -unpretending monument, square at the base, and eighteen feet high, on -which is inscribed: - - PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCION. - -This was erected in 1812, to commemorate the short-lived constitutional -form of government then instituted in Spain. - -The building on the west side of the square was the residence of the -Spanish Governors. It has been rebuilt and much altered since the -purchase of the territory, and is now used for the United States Court. -On the opposite side, between the Square and the water, is the Market -House. - -The building on the north side is the Roman Catholic Church. Its quaint -belfry has four bells which ring forth the Angelus thrice daily. One of -these has the following inscription: - - _Sancte Joseph, - Ora pro Nobis. - A. D., 1682._ - -This church was commenced in 1793, and doubtless this bell was brought -from the previous church, which was on St. George street. In the -interior, the ceiling is painted, the floor of concrete, and there are a -few pictures, none of note. Many of its attendants are descendants of -Spanish and Minorcan families. - -Opposite the Roman Catholic, is the Episcopal church, consecrated in -1833. - -The oldest building in the city is supposed to be that at the corner of -Green Lane and Bay street. A century ago it was the residence of the -English attorney general, and was probably built about 1750. It will be -observed that the coquina rock does not wear very well. - -At the north end of the town, where the causeway (of modern -construction) connects with the main land, is the *City Gate, flanked by -two square pillars, with Moorish tops. On either side a dry ditch, and -the remains of a wall, mark the fortified limits of the city. - -At the southern extremity of the peninsula are the Barracks, built on -the foundations of the ancient Franciscan convent. From their top a fine -view of the town can be obtained. In the rear of the main building is a -Cemetery where the victims of “Dade’s Massacre,” during the 1st Seminole -war, were buried, and other members of the U. S. forces. - -Still further south are the United States Arsenal and the remains of an -ancient breastwork. - -The whole east front of the town for more than a mile is occupied by the -*_sea wall_. It was built by the United States (1837-1843) to prevent -the encroachment of the waves. The material is coquina stone topped by -granite. It is wide enough for two persons to walk abreast upon it, and -it is a favorite evening promenade. It encloses two handsome basins, -with steps leading to the water. - -Fort Marion, or, as it was formerly called, the castle of San Marco, -occupies a commanding position on the north of the city. It is -considered a fine specimen of military architecture, having been -constructed on the principles laid down by the famous engineer Vauban. -No fees are required for visitors. The walls are 21 feet high, with -bastions at each corner, the whole structure being in the form of a -trapezium, and enclosing an area about sixty yds. square. The main -entrance is by a drawbridge. Over this is sculptured on a block of stone -the Spanish coat of arms, surmounted by the globe and cross, with a -Maltese cross and lamb beneath. Immediately under the arms is this -inscription: - - _Reynando en Espana el Senr - Don Fernando Sexto y siendo - Govor. y Capn. de esa. Cd. San. Augn. de - La Florida y sus Prova. el Mariscal - de campos Don Alonzo Ferndo. Hereda - Asi concluio este Castillo el an - OD. 1756. Dirigiendo las obras el - Cap Ingnro. Dn. Pedro de Brozas - y Garay._ - -“Don Ferdinand VI. being king of Spain, the field marshal, Don Alonzo -Fernando Hereda, governor and captain of this city of San Augustin de la -Florida and its provinces, finished this castle in the year 1756, the -captain of engineers Don Pedro de Brozas y Garay superintending the -work.” - -From the space in the interior, doors lead to the casemates. Opposite -the entrance, in the northern casemate, is the apartment which was -formerly used as a chapel. The altar stone is still preserved. In -another apartment, the small window is pointed out through which -Coacoochee, a distinguished Seminole chieftain, made his escape in the -first Seminole war. Under the north east bastion there are subterranean -cells, probably used for confining prisoners, in one of which a human -skeleton is said to have been found. The curtain on the east side of the -fort, still shows the marks of Oglethorpe’s cannon balls. - -The vicinity of St. Augustine is uninteresting. A pleasant drive can be -taken through the town and along the east bank of the Sebastian river. A -sail along Matanzas river has some attractions. Several good sail boats -can be hired, some accommodating twenty or twenty-five persons, price -$5.00 a day. A few miles south of the city an elevated spot marks the -remains of General Moultrie’s (of revolutionary fame) residence. At the -southern extremity of Anastasia island the ruins of a Spanish look-out -are visible. Rock island, on the north shore of the inlet near this -point, has a remarkable Indian mound. - -Curlews and snipes afford some good sport along the strand, and in the -winter, a brace or two of ducks can always be bagged on Anastasia -island, but their flavor is not attractive. - -The nearest _orange grove_ is that of Dr. Anderson, on the west side of -the town. In going thither, the path should be chosen leading through -the pleasant orange walk on the grounds of Mr. Buckingham Smith. - -The chief local industry at St. Augustine is the *_palmetto work_. Hats, -baskets, and boxes are very tastefully plaited from the sun-dried leaves -of the low variety of that plant. Specimens of this handwork make -pleasant mementoes of a visit to this ancient city. - -I now return to Picolata on the St. John. About a mile north of the -landing, on the bank of the river, lived Col. John Lee Williams, the -author of “The Natural and Civil History of Florida,” and “View of West -Florida,” and in many ways conspicuous in the early history of the -State. He died in 1857, and was buried in his own garden. I had the -melancholy satisfaction of visiting his grave the day after his burial, -having reached Picolata without learning his death. I was told that the -river here had materially altered its course within the memory of those -now living. I am certainly unable to account in any other way for the -total disappearance of the Spanish fort which, a century ago, existed -here. The traveller Bartram describes it as built of coquina stone -brought from Anastasia island. The main work, a square tower, thirty -feet high, with battlements allowing two guns on each side, was -surrounded by a high wall, pierced with loop-holes and a deep exterior -ditch. Even at that time he speaks of it as “very ancient.” - -On the opposite bank of the river was the fort of St. Francis de Poppa. -Its earthworks are still visible, about one mile north of the landing. -From St. Francis de Poppa the old Spanish road led across the province -to St. Marks on the Gulf. Two small Sulphur Springs are found a short -distance from the Picolata landing. - -Fifteen miles above Picolata the steamer stops on the right (west) bank -at - - -PALATKA. - -_Hotels._--Putnam House, St. John’s House, charges, $3.50 per day. The -Palatka hotels are tolerable, but not so good as those of Jacksonville. -Several boarding houses. A large hotel is projected. - -This was originally a military post in the Indian war of 1836-’40. The -town is built on a sand bluff ten to fifteen feet above the river, a few -inches of shells forming the surface soil. There are 800 or 1,000 -inhabitants, principally engaged in orange culture and lumbering. -Several beautiful orange groves are in the vicinity, and constitute the -only attraction of the place. The streets are sandy, and walking is -difficult. Steamboats run from here direct to Charleston and Savannah, -and also to the lakes of Marion and Alachua counties and up the Oklawaha -river to Lake Griffin. A mail stage runs to Tampa. - -Above Palatka the river narrows, and the banks become as a rule lower -and more swampy. At a point twelve miles above, on the left (east) bank, -Buffalo bluff meets the river, a ridge of loose sandrock surmounted by a -stratum of shells from six to ten feet in thickness. Five miles beyond, -on the same side, is Horse Landing, where a shell and sand mound rises -abruptly about eight feet from the water. This has been carefully -examined by Prof. Jeffries Wyman, and pronounced to have been built by -the ancient possessors of the land. About eighteen miles above Palatka, -on the east bank, is the small town of - - -WELAKA. - -Large boarding houses were here before the war but were destroyed. A -capacious hotel is in process of erection. Three large sulphur springs -are in the immediate vicinity, which could doubtless be applied to -sanitary purposes. The soil is good, and well adapted to oranges. Eight -miles east of Welaka is *Dunn’s Lake, a beautiful sheet of water twelve -miles long and three wide, abundantly stocked with fish. Its shores -abound in game, and many rich plantations are on and near it. The soil -is unsurpassed by any in Florida, and has always borne a high -reputation. - -Opposite Welaka, the Oklawaha empties into the St. John. The latter -river at this point is about 500 yards wide. Half a mile above, it -expands to a width of three miles. This is called Little Lake George. -Fort Gates landing is at its southern extremity. Twelve miles above -Welaka is Lake George proper, a sheet of water about eighteen miles in -length, and ten in width. At its southern end a large and fertile island -(about 1900 acres), shuts off the view. It is called Rembrandt’s, or -Drayton’s Island. According to Bartram, there should be remarkable -monuments of the aborigines, mounds, earthworks, and artificial lakes, -on this island. The channel lies to its east, and is quite narrow. At -the extremity of this entrance there is a landing on the eastern shore, -known as Sam’s landing, or Lake George landing. A post office was -located here. - -Several remarkable mineral springs are around this lake, especially on -the western shore. It is an unsafe sea for boats, being exposed to -sudden and violent winds. - -A mile or two from the western shore, the ground rises into high -sand-hills, covered with a dense growth of spruce-pine and blackjack -oak. This is the “Eteniah scrub,” which divides the St. John from the -Oklawaha, and extends for many miles southwardly. It is a dry and -hopeless barren. Sixty-five miles above Palatka, and four miles above -the southern entrance of Lake George, on the left (east) bank of the -river, is the old settlement of - - -VOLUSIA. - -Good boarding-house by Dr. Langren--price moderate. Little is now seen -from the river but a few ruinous houses and the marks of a once -extended cultivation in overgrown “old fields,” but the place has a -history worth recording. - -Soon after the cession of the county to the English crown in 1763, Mr. -Denison Rolles, a gentleman of wealth, actuated, it would appear, by a -spirit of philanthropy, proposed to transport large numbers of the -unfortunate women of the London street to this new country, and there -give them a chance to lead a better life. With this object he obtained a -grant of 40,000 acres, and located it in this portion of Florida. The -manor was called Charlottia, from the queen. Several hundred acres were -cleared, a large mansion house erected, a handsome avenue laid out, -which was to reach to St. Augustine, and colonists to the number of -three hundred brought across. But, as so often happens, unexpected -obstacles arose. Supplies failed to come in time, fevers carried off -many, the proprietor was accused of parsimony, and finally the -settlement broke up, and those who survived went to Carolina and -Georgia. - -At this point the river is quite narrow, and both banks are occupied by -fresh-water shell-bluffs, of artificial origin. On that opposite Volusia -stands _Fort Butler_, a place of some note in the Indian wars. Four -miles above Volusia, is Dexter’s Lake, (ten miles long.) It is a famous -resort for wild fowls in the fall and winter. It is surrounded by -extensive marshes, cypress groves, and hammocks. - -A few miles above Lake Dexter the steamer stops at the small place now -called Hawkinsville, but which formerly bore the much more euphonious -name of the brave Seminole warrior, Osceola, (corruption of _asse -heholar_, sun rising). On the left bank, six miles above, is the -remarkable - - -BLUE SPRING. - -This is a landing, with post office, but has no hotel. One is (of -course) in contemplation. The *spring is a large and beautiful fountain -of crystal clear water. It forms a basin one-fourth of a mile long, -twenty-five to thirty yards wide, and ten to twenty feet deep. The water -is slightly sulphurous and thermal, the temperature reaching, at times, -75 degrees Fahr. This spot was called by the English, Berrisford, and -was the most southern settlement made by them while in possession of the -country. - -Hunting and fishing in this vicinity are remarkably fine. The back -country is fertile, and some magnificent orange groves are under -cultivation. - -The river now narrows to a width of fifty or sixty yds. Meadows of tall -grass and maiden-cane, interspersed with clumps of lofty and graceful -palms diversify the scene. Through these the stream winds its tortuous -channel for thirty miles. At length the steamboat reaches its -destination at - - -ENTERPRISE, - -On Lake Monroe. *Brock House, kept by Mr. J. Brock, the proprietor of -the line of steamers--$3.50 per day. Several boarding-houses in the pine -woods near *Watson’s. - -Several high shell mounds rise on the east shore of the lake, on one of -which the hotel stands. Half a mile south of it is a large sulphur -spring of unusual strength, with a basin twenty-five yards in diameter. -About 150 yards beyond it is a second sulphur spring of less extent, and -near by, also, a source of saline waters. (As yet no provisions are made -for the application of their waters to medicinal purposes). - -Beyond the springs, a hill of sand and shells rises some thirty or forty -feet, surmounted by an old frame building. A luxuriant sweet orange -grove extends along the shore, bearing the finest fruit I ever tasted in -Florida. - -The medicinal waters, the rich fruit, the charming lake, the near pine -woods, and the attractive hunting and fishing at this spot, render it -one of the most eligible for a large sanitary establishment. But its -position should not be directly on the beach, where the dazzling sand -tries the eyes, and the evening dampness is painfully felt. - -Across Lake Monroe, is Fort Mellon, long used as a Government -store-house, and the terminus of one of the military roads which connect -with the interior of the country. - -Fragments of bog iron ore, and oolitic limestone, are picked up on the -shore. - -A small steamboat runs about once a week from Enterprise to Lake Harney -(thirty miles). The channel is narrow and crooked, running through -broad, grassy savannahs and hammocks. The first bluff above Lake Monroe -is called Leneer’s. It is on the left bank. - -Occasional trips are made to Salt Lake, thirty miles above Lake Harney. -Its waters are brackish, rather, I think, from its contiguity to the -sea, than from any salt springs. It is only seven miles from Indian -river lagoon. Probably this is the only example in the world of a large -river, at a distance of nearly 300 miles from its mouth, flowing within -seven miles of the ocean into which it empties. When the water is high, -small steamers and row-boats have passed beyond Salt Lake, sixty miles -to Lake Washington. No settlements are on the river, however, higher up -than Lake Harney. - -The source of the St. John is unknown. Its head waters probably lose -themselves in vast marshes, from which flow sluggish streams northward -to it, southward into Lake Okeechobee, and westward into the Kissimmee -river. The determination of this geographical point would be -interesting, though perhaps of no great practical value. Yet, one cannot -help feeling astonished that the sources of this river, on which the -first colony north of Mexico was founded, which traverses the oldest -settled State of our Union, and which has been alternately possessed by -three powerful nations, are more completely unknown and unexplored than -those of the Nile or the Niger. - - -NEW SMYRNA. - -This small settlement of half a dozen houses, is on Musquito lagoon, or -Halifax river. It is reached by a rather rough-traveling weekly stage -from Enterprise, for the immoderate sum of $8.00 a head. Board can be -obtained of Mrs. Sheldon. New Symrna was laid out by Dr. Turnbull, -during the English occupancy of Florida, and hither he brought his -colony of Greeks, Minorcans, and Italians, as I have previously related. -The marks of their faithful industry are still discernible. Turtle -Mound, on the west bank of the Lagoon, near the town, is one of the most -remarkable shell-mounds, or “Kitchen-middens” in Florida. I have -described it in my “_Notes on the Floridian Peninsula_,” page 178. There -are a number of other equally curious remains of a similar character in -the vicinity. - -A hundred years ago nearly the whole of the bluff along the river, about -half a mile wide, and nearly forty in length, was one vast orange grove. - -A mail boat leaves here for Indian river every second week. - - -INDIAN RIVER. - -Persons wishing to visit Indian river for camp hunting, should hire an -open boat, guide, and tent, (if the latter is deemed necessary), at -Jacksonville, and bring them to Enterprise on the steamer. From that -point they can row to Lake Harney in two days, where the boat and tent -can be carried across to Sand Point, on Indian river, on an ox team. -Col. H. F. Titus has a store and dwelling at Sand Point, and -accommodates tourists either with his team or his table. The distance -from the Point to Enterprise is forty miles; to Lake Harney twenty-two -miles, and to Salt Lake seven miles. A hack sometimes runs to Lake -Harney during the winter season (fare $4.00), which delivers the mail at -the Point. - -Indian river is properly a lagoon, or arm of the sea. Its waters contain -about two-thirds as much salt as those of the ocean. In width it varies -from one to four miles. Its western shore is marshy, with hammocks. -About half a mile from the water runs a ridge, averaging half a mile -across, covered with pines, oak, and palmettos. At places this ridge -approaches to the water’s edge, and offers first-class camping grounds. -It varies in height, one point having been determined at fifty-two feet -above tide level by the United States coast survey. That portion known -as the Indian Garden, is about forty feet high, and was formerly -thoroughly cultivated by the natives and the Spaniards. All the ridge -could readily be made extremely productive. The oranges of Indian river -are equal to the best brought from Havana. A single orchard is said to -return to its owner not less than $20,000 a year. - -Here again the difficulty of access meets one. The Fort Pierce channel, -the deepest of the outlets of Indian river, has but six or seven feet of -water at high tide, and it is so filled with sand and oyster shells that -navigation is difficult for vessels drawing over three feet. - - -SANTA LUCIE, - -One hundred miles below Sand Point, is near the outlet. The intervening -shore is very thinly scattered with settlers, but abounds in unequalled -hunting and fishing. Santa Lucie is the county seat of Brevard county. -It boasts a post office, store, and two or three houses. Mr. Frank Smith -is postmaster, and cheerfully gives information or furnishes -accommodation to the few tourists who wander thus far from civilized -life. - - -SANTA LUCIE RIVER - -Commences twenty miles further south. It, too, is a salt water lagoon. -Formerly a water connection existed between this and Indian river, but -now it is closed. Santa Lucie river is principally famous for the -numbers, size, and flavor of its turtles. Fort Capron is on its west -side. At this point there is a post office, kept by Captain James Payne, -who will give any information wished for about the locality. - -The mail along this coast is carried from St. Augustine to Jupiter Inlet -in boats, and thence ninety miles along the beach to Miami on Key -Biscayne Bay by a man on foot. For the whole of this latter distance -there is but one house, and no fresh water is to be had for a horse. The -messenger is allowed four days for his journey. From Miami, which I -shall speak of in a subsequent route, the letters are carried to Key -West by schooner. - - - - -5.--JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE, QUINCY AND ST. MARKS. - - -(Tallahassee, and Pensacola & Georgia, and Florida, Atlanta & Gulf -Central railways. Time 14 hours, one train daily.) - -The train leaves Jacksonville following the old military road, and soon -enters open pine woods. The first station is _White House_ (eleven -miles). The next (eight miles) is _Baldwin_, (Florida House, M. Colding -Proprietor). Here the Florida railway connects for Fernandina, Cedar -Keys, Gainesville, and other points in East Florida. - -Beyond Baldwin the train passes over a swampy country intersected by -numerous creeks flowing northward into the St. Mary’s river, which near -here makes its South Prong far to the south. _Sanderson_, (eighteen -miles) is an insignificant station. _Olustee_ (ten miles) is a rising -village in the midst of a wide level tract, (no hotel; board at private -houses $1.50 to $2.00 a day.) Ocean Pond, half a mile from the road -(right hand side), is a handsome sheet of water, nearly circular, about -four miles in diameter. It is deep, and offers excellent fishing. - - -LAKE CITY - -(twelve miles; two tolerable hotels, $3.00 per day, $15. per week; -newspaper, _Lake City Press_; telegraph office) is a promising place of -several hundred inhabitants. Three miles south of the city is Alligator -Lake, a body of water without any visible outlet. In the wet season it -is three or four miles across, but in winter it retires into a deep sink -hole, and the former bottom is transformed into a grassy meadow. - - -WELBORN - -Is the next stopping place (twelve miles. The Griffin House, and several -boarding houses; $1.50 per day, $6.00 per week). It is a prosperous -village of 150 inhabitants. The water is good, and the neighborhood -healthy. Its height above tide water is 200 feet. - -Stages leave Welborn daily for the *_White Sulphur Springs_, on the -Suwannee river, eight miles north of the station (fare $2.00). These -springs are a favorite resort for persons suffering from rheumatism and -skin diseases. They have been estimated to discharge about three hundred -hogsheads a minute. The *hotel, ($3.00 per day, $12.00 per week, $40.00 -per month,) accommodating seventy-five guests, stands within a few yards -of the Suwannee river, there a pretty stream about fifty yards wide. -There is also a private boarding house near by. Dr. A. W. Knight, of -Maine, resides at the hotel, and will be found an intelligent physician. -There is good fishing in the river, and as the county is but sparsely -settled, small game is abundant. Horses can be had for $2.00. The basin -of the spring is ten feet deep, and 30 feet in diameter; the stream runs -about a hundred yards and then empties into the river. - -Leaving Welborn, the train passes _Houston_, (five miles), and reaches -_Live Oak_ (six miles.) Here the morning train stops for dinner. A good -table is set by Mr. Conner, who keeps the hotel ($3 per day, $12.50 per -week, $30.00 per month. Boarding, Mrs. M. A. McCleran, $25.00 per month, -Mrs. Goodbread, $1.00 per day, $20.00 per month; Newspaper, _Live Oak -Advertizer_; Churches, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Baptist.) At this -point a connecting railway diverges north to Lawton, Ga., on the main -line of the Atlantic and Gulf R. R. Live Oak to Savannah, $9.00. Live -Oak has at present about 250 inhabitants, and is a growing place. The -country in the vicinity is the usual limestone soil of Middle Florida, -covered with pine. Peaches flourish very well, and the soil is -reasonably productive. - -The _Lower Spring_, on the banks of the Suwannee river, eight miles -north of Live Oak, is reached by trains twice daily on the road to -Lawton. Its waters are sulphurous, and it is a favorite resort for -certain classes of invalids. The accommodations are passable. - -Beyond Live Oak, is _Ellaville_, (thirteen miles, formerly called -Columbus), near the Suwannee. This river is comparatively narrow, and -divides at this point into its east and west branches. - -The next station (fifteen miles) is _Madison_, the county seat of -Madison county (Madison hotel). The village is half a mile from the -depot, located on a plain bordering on a small lake. - -Beyond this are _Goodman_ station, (fourteen miles), _Aucilla_, (seven -miles), and the _Junction_ (seven miles). At the latter a railway four -miles in length diverges to - - -MONTICELLO, - -The county seat of Jefferson county. - -_Hotels._--Monticello house, kept by Mrs. Madden, accommodates about -thirty guests, $2.00 a day, $30.00 to $40.00 a month; Godfrey House. The -village has a population of about 700. It is pleasantly located and -regularly laid out, the court house occupying a square in the center of -the town. There are four churches, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist -and Baptist. There is an academy of nearly 150 pupils, part of the -support of the institution being drawn from the Southern Educational -Fund, provided by the banker, Mr. Peabody. A flourishing colored school -is also in the vicinity. Lake Mickasukie, an extensive body of fresh -water, is about three miles distant. - -The climate of this part of Florida is dry and equable, and the soil the -very best upland pine. Many invalids would find it a very pleasant and -beneficial change from the sea coast or the river side, and immigrants -would do well to visit it. Game and fish are abundant, and the sportsman -need never be at a loss for occupation. - -Leaving the Junction, the train stops at _Lloyd’s_ (nine miles), -_Chavies_, (six miles), and finally at - - -TALLAHASSEE. - -_Hotels._--City Hotel, Hagner house, about $3.00 a day. - -_Newspapers._--The _Floridian and Journal_, Democrat, an old established -and ably conducted paper; the _Tallahassee Sentinel_, Republican, -likewise well edited. - -_Churches_ of most denominations. - -The capital of Florida is a city of about 3000 inhabitants, situated on -a commanding eminence in the midst of a rolling and productive country. -The name is probably a compound of the Greek _talofah_, town, and -_hassee_, sun. The site was chosen in 1823 by three commissioners, of -whom Colonel John Lee Williams, the subsequent historian of Florida, was -one. In the following year the first house was erected. A pleasant -stream winds along the eastern part of the town, and tumbles over a -limestone ledge in a little cataract. The capitol is a brick building, -stuccoed, with a handsome center reached by a broad flight of steps, and -with spacious wings. It was built by the United States during the -territorial government. It stands in the center of the town surrounded -by a large open square. The usual chambers for the legislative, -judicial, and executive bodies are found here. - -In one of the offices a curious piece of antiquity is preserved. It is -the fragments of a complete suit of ancient steel armour ploughed up in -a field near Monticello. From its appearance it is judged to date from -the sixteenth century, - - -QUINCY - -lies twenty-four miles west of Tallahassee, (fare $1.50), the present -terminus of the railroad. (Pop. 1,000). - -_Hotels._--Willard’s, in the centre of the town, and Wood’s, at the -railroad depot. Both $2.50 per day--$10.00 a week. - -_Boarding House._--*Mrs. Ann Innes; same prices. - -_Churches._--Episcopal, Presbyterian, and Methodist. - -_Newspaper._--The _Quincy Monitor_, a well conducted Journal. - -The vicinity is a rolling, pine country, with limestone sub-soil. Plenty -of marl is found, suitable for fertilizing. Cotton, corn, tobacco, and -vines are cultivated with success. There is an agricultural association, -of which Judge C. H. Dupont is president. Some caves and other natural -curiosities are found in the vicinity. - -Stages run from Quincy to Chatahoochee, tri-weekly; fare $5.00--twenty -miles--an exhorbitant charge. The boarding house in Chatahoochee, $2.00 -per day. The steamer from Columbus and Bainbridge, Ga., touch at -Chatahoochee daily; fare to Apalachicola, $5.00. - - -TALLAHASSEE TO ST. MARKS. - -By St. Marks Railroad--distance twenty-one miles; time, one hour and -thirty minutes. There is no hotel at St. Marks, and but one boarding -house, that of Mrs. Eliza Barber, $3.50 per day, $12.00 per week. There -are excellent hunting and fishing in this vicinity, and boats can be -hired at very reasonable prices, but horses are scarce. The town is an -old Spanish settlement, and some remains of the ancient fortifications -are still visible in the vicinity. It was first settled under the name -of San Marcos de Apalache, in 1718, by Don Joseph Primo. At one time it -was a port of some promise, but has now fallen into insignificance. - -It is situated at the junction of the St. Marks and Wakulla rivers. The -latter stream is ten miles in length, and takes its rise in the famous -*Wakulla fountain. The name is the Creek word _wankulla_, (_n_-nasal) -South. It is a remarkable curiosity, and should be visited by those who -have the time. The most pleasant--and most expensive--means is to hire a -carriage at Tallahassee, from which the spring is seventeen miles -distant. - -The country in the vicinity is low and flat, covered with dense groves -of cypress, liveoak, &c. The spring is oval in shape, about thirty -yards in diameter, and quite deep. On the eastern side is a rocky ledge, -whence the stream issues. The water is cool, impregnated with lime, and -of a marvellous clearness. Troops of fishes can be seen disporting -themselves in the transparent depths. - -Mr. Wise, of the Coast Survey, found bottom at eighty feet, the lead -being plainly visible at that depth. In the same vicinity the Ocilla, -Wacilla, and Spring Creek Springs are likewise subterranean streams, -which boil up from great depths in fountains of perfect clearness. - - -NEWPORT, - -A few miles from St. Marks, on the St. Marks river, was at one time a -place of considerable summer resort, but is now but little visited. Near -by is a natural bridge, over the river, which is esteemed sufficiently -curious to attract occasional visitors. - - - - -6. THE OKLAWAHA RIVER AND THE SILVER SPRING. - - -Boats leave Jacksonville and Palatka every Thursday for Lake Griffin. -Time from Palatka to Silver Spring, forty hours; fare, $5.00; distance, -100 miles. The boats are necessarily small, and the accommodations -limited. - -The Oklawaha, so called from one of the seven clans of the Seminoles, -falls into the St. John opposite the town of Welaka. It is only within a -few years that, at a considerable expenditure, it has been rendered -navigable. Its mouth is hardly noticed in ascending the St. John. - -At Welaka, leaving the broad, placid bosom of the former river, the -little steamer enters a narrow, swift and tortuous stream, overhung by -enormous cypresses. Its width is from twenty to forty yards, and its -depth from fifteen to twenty feet. Natural, leafy curtains of vines and -aquatic plants veil its banks. - -Twelve miles from the mouth the boat passes - - -DAVENPORT’S BLUFF, - -On the right bank, where there are a few houses. Above this point the -“Narrows” commence and extend eight miles. The river is divided into -numerous branches, separated by wet cypress islands. Dense, monotonous -forests of cypress, curled maple, black and prickly ash, cabbage trees, -and loblolly bays shut in the stream on both sides. - -Seventeen miles above Davenport’s Bluff are the - - -*BLUE SPRINGS. - -These rise in the river itself about four feet from the right bank. They -are warmer than the river water, and when seen in the sun’s rays have a -dark blue tinge. They have never been analyzed. - -Nine miles above these springs the pine woods abut on the river, and -there is a settlement on the right hand bank called - - -FORT BROOKE. - -This is within two miles of *Orange Spring, a sulphur spring, with -strongly impregnated waters, but at present without accommodations for -travelers. It is to be hoped that this will not continue, as it is one -of the most admirable of the many medicinal springs of Florida. - -Twelve miles above is - - -PAINE’S LANDING, - -near where the waters of Orange Lake drain into the river. - -One and a half miles beyond is a settlement with the pretty name _Iola_. -A few miles further up “forty foot Bluff” commences, which skirts the -river several miles, here and there separated from it by cypress groves. - -As the steamer ascends, the banks become higher, pines more frequent -along the shore, and cultivated fields more numerous. - -At length, at a distance of 100 miles from the mouth of the river, the -crystal current of *Silver Spring Run, here as large as the river itself -above the junction, pours into the coffee-colored waters of the -Oklawaha. The Run is ten miles in length, with extensive savannas on -either side, shut in by a distant wall of pines. In the spring months -these savannas are covered with thousands of beautiful and fragrant -flowers.[B] The stream is rapid, with an average width of 100 feet, and -a depth of twenty feet. The water is perfectly clear, so that the bottom -is distinctly visible. At places, it is clothed with dark green sedge, -swaying to and fro in the current; at others, ridges of grey sand and -white shells offer a pleasant contrast. - -[B] A good description of Silver Spring is found in Gen. McCall’s -_Letters from the Frontier_, p. 149, and a more scientific one in my -_Notes on the Floridian Peninsula_. Appendix I. - -The Spring-head forms an oval basin, 150 yards long, 100 feet wide, and -forty feet deep. The water gushes from a large opening about 5 feet -high, and fifteen feet long, under a ledge of limestone at the -north-eastern extremity. It is free from any unpleasant taste, has a -temperature of 73 degrees Fah., and is so transparent that a small coin -can be distinctly seen on the bottom of the deepest part of the basin. -When the basin is seen with the sunbeams falling upon it at a certain -angle their refraction gives the sides and bottom the appearance of -being elevated and tinged with the hues of the rainbow. - -Some observations I took about a mile below the basin, with a three inch -log, at a time when the water was at an average height, show that this -fountain throws out about three hundred million gallons every -twenty-four hours, or more than twenty times the amount consumed daily -by New York city. - -At Silver Spring stages meet the boat for - - -OCALA, - -The county seat of Marion co., nine miles distant. The intervening -country is rolling, with pine woods and hammocks. Ocala is a neat town, -with about 300 inhabitants, two hotels, $1.50 per day, $25.00 per mo.; -several boarding houses; two newspapers, _East Florida Banner_; livery -stable; physician, Dr. T. P. Gary; several churches; mail three times a -week by stage to Gainesville on the Florida R. R., fare for one -passenger to Gainesville, $6.00; mail stage to Tampa. - -This portion of the State impresses the visitor favorably, and is well -adapted for sugar cane and fruit, but it is cursed with malarial fevers -of severe type. A few miles south of the town are the remains of Fort -King, a military post in the Seminole war, and six miles south, near the -road to Tampa, there is a cave of some size in the limestone rock. - -Returning now to the Oklawaha, and pursuing our journey up that river, -no change in the monotony of the cypress swamp occurs for about sixteen -miles above Silver Spring run. At this distance is the small settlement -Cow Ford. Beyond it the cypress disappears, and a savanna covered with -dense saw grass stretches on either side for one or two miles from the -river. This portion of the river has been but recently cleared and it -was not till early in 1868 that the first steamboats could make their -trips through this part. The chief difficulty encountered was the -floating islands which covered the river, sometimes so thickly that no -sign of its course was visible. They were composed mainly of the curious -aquatic plant the _pistia spathulata_. These had to be sawed in pieces -and the fragments suffered to float down, or fastened to the shore. - -After passing through these savannas some miles the boat enters Lake -Griffin, a narrow lake about nine miles long. Several thriving -settlements are on its banks, which present a diversity of soil, swamp, -hammock, and pine land. - -Six miles beyond Lake Griffin is Lake Eustis, a smaller body of water, -but more pleasing to the eye. The settlement of Fort Mason is upon its -shores. - -Beyond Lake Eustis a deep channel a mile and a half long called the -Narrows leads to Lake Harris. It is fourteen miles in length and in some -parts seven miles wide. Much of the land upon its banks is of the best -quality. The Oklawaha enters it at its southwestern extremity. - - -LEESBURG, - -A small village, passed between Lakes Griffin and Harris, is now the -county seat of Sumter county. About five miles above Lake Harris is Lake -Dunham, the head of navigation of the Oklawaha. A settlement on this -lake bearing the name Oklawaha is the terminus. - -All this country south of Silver Spring Run is laid down quite -incorrectly on all maps but the last edition of Mr. Drew’s “Map of -Florida.” - - - - -7. FROM FERNANDINA TO CEDAR KEYS. - - -(Florida Railroad; distance 154 miles; time 11 hours, 30 min. Fare -$11.00.) - -The train, on leaving Fernandina, runs southward on Amelia Island, for -about three miles, through a forest of pine and live oak with an -undergrowth of myrtle and palmetto. The road then turns westward and -crosses the salt marshes, and a narrow arm of the sea, the latter about -twenty-five yards wide, which separate the island from the main. Beyond -these, it enters the low pine lands of Nassau county. They are -unproductive, thinly inhabited, and to the traveler extremely -monotonous. The first station is _Callahan_ (27 miles); the next -_Baldwin_ (Florida House), where a connection is made with the Pensacola -and Georgia Railway for Tallahassee, Jacksonville, etc. - -The country gradually rises and improves in quality of soil beyond this -point, but houses continue sparse. The station next beyond is Trail -Ridge (15 miles). Here the mail is delivered for Middleburg on Black -Creek, twelve miles east. (See Route up the St. John.) - -Much of the land is swampy, and the road crosses a number of small water -courses, tributaries of Black Creek. The traveller is now approaching -the Lake country of Central Florida. The succeeding small station, -_Waldo_, (22 miles) is in the midst of a group of ponds, lakes and -extensive swamps. - -They are known as the Ettini ponds. They are separated by sand hills and -stretches of fertile low-lands. - -Twelve miles beyond Waldo is - - -GAINESVILLE. - -_Hotels._--*Exchange hotel, by Messrs. Barnes & Shemwell; the Magnolia -house; the Bevill house; charges, $2.50 per day. - -_Newspaper._--The _New Era_, (Democrat). - -_Two Livery Stables._ - -_Churches._--Methodist, Baptist, and Presbyterian. - -Gainesville (pop. 1500) is situated in one of the most fertile regions -of Florida. It is on a portion of the old “Arredondo Grant,” which -embraced the larger part of the rich Alachua plains, and has been -called, not without reason, the garden of the State. The soil is a sandy -loam, resting on limestone. The latter is friable, and easily eroded by -water. The rains frequently thus undermine the soil, which suddenly -gives way, forming so-called “sinks” and “pot holes,” common throughout -Alachua and the neighboring counties. One of the largest is the -*_Devil’s Wash Pot_, 200 feet in depth, into which three small streams -plunge by a series of leaps. Payne’s Prairie, a rich, level tract, -twelve miles in length, enclosing a pretty lake, commences three miles -south of Gainesville. - -The famous *_Orange Grove_ commences about twelve miles south of -Gainesville, and extends nearly around Orange Lake. It is probably the -largest natural orange grove in the world, and in the spring when the -trees are in blossom, perfumes the whole region. - -The Natural Bridge over the Santa Fe river is most readily approached -from Gainesville, from which it is about twenty-four miles distant, west -of north. The road passes through Newnansville, (the Wilson House, -widow Frier’s boarding house, both $2.25 per day,) a place of 200 -inhabitants. Near this place is Warren’s Cave, a curiosity of local -note. The Natural Bridge marks, in fact, the spot where the river enters -an underground channel for three miles of its course. Close to the -bridge are the Wellington Springs, a sulphurous source of considerable -magnitude, but with no accommodations. - -A mail stage with very limited provisions for passengers, leaves -Gainesville for Micanopy, Ocala, and Tampa, three times a week. -Travelers arriving at Gainesville, on their way to the upper St. John, -will do well to hire a private conveyance and go by Payne’s prairie and -the Orange Grove to Ocala (thirty-eight miles) and the Silver Spring -whence they can take the boats on the Oklawaha. (See page 89.) This trip -will show them the most fertile portion of central Florida. - -Leaving Gainesville, the train passed over a high, rolling, limestone -country, through open forests of pine, hickory, blackjack, and other -hardwood trees. The first station, Archer, fifteen miles, (one hotel, -$3.00 per day,) is in the midst of such scenery. About ten miles beyond -it the surface descends, and cypress and hammock become more frequent. - -The next station, Otter Creek, twenty-two miles, is on the western -border of the dense Gulf hammock, the part of it which lies in this -vicinity being styled the Devil’s hammock. - -As it approaches the Gulf, the road crosses a number of small creeks and -over several arms of the sea, passing from island to island until it -reaches Cedar Key (nineteen miles), where is the terminus. (*Hotel kept -by Mr. Willard, $3.00 per day.) - -The population of the key is about 400, chiefly engaged in lumbering. -Excellent hunting and fishing can be had in the vicinity, and many -pretty shells and sea-mosses are found along the shore. A hard sand -beach, half a mile in length, is a favorite promenade. There are no -horses on the island, but boats, here the only means of transportation, -can be hired from $3.00 to $5.00 a day. Remains of the former Indian -occupants, such as shell mounds, stone axes, arrowheads, pottery, etc., -are very abundant. - -Steamers touch at Cedar Keys every day or two, providing ready -communication with the principal points on the Gulf. The fares are about -as follows: to Tampa, $10.00; Key West, $20.00; Havana, $30.00; St. -Marks, $10.00; Apalachicola, $20.00; Pensacola, $30.00; New Orleans, -$40.00; Mobile, $20.00. - - - - -8. KEY WEST--THE FLORIDA KEYS AND THE GULF COAST. - - -KEY WEST. - -_Hotels._--*Russell House, George Phillips, proprietor, on Duval St.; -Florida House, both $2.50 per day, $40.00 to $60.00 per month. - -_Boarding-Houses._--John Dixon, Whitehead Street; Mrs. E. Armbrister, -Duval Street; Mrs. Clarke; from $8.00 to $15.00 per week. - -_Telegraph_ to Havana and the north; office in Naval depot building. -Post Office opposite the Russell House. - -_Churches._--Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Baptist, and Methodist. - -_Bookseller._--R. P. Campbell, Duval Street, (northern weeklies, -Brinton’s _Guide-Book_). - -_Newspaper._--Key West _Dispatch_, weekly, well edited. The Key West -Literary Association has a reading-room. - -_Steamship Lines._--The Baltimore, Havana, and New Orleans line, -semi-monthly, to Baltimore, $50.00, to Havana $10.00, to New Orleans -$40.00. The C. H. Mallory & Co., line from New York to Galveston and New -Orleans, semi-weekly; to New York $40.00, to Galveston $40.00. The -Spofford and Tilson line from New York to Galveston and New Orleans, -semi-weekly; to New York $40.00, to New Orleans $40.00. The Alliance, -United States mail line, to Fort Jefferson, Tampa, Cedar Keys, St. -Marks, Apalachicola, Pensacola, and Mobile, the line for the west coast -of Florida. - -The name Key West is a corruption of the Spanish _Cayo Hueso_, Bone Key, -the latter word being of Indian origin (Arawack, _Kairi_, island). -Formerly it was called Thompson’s island by the English. It is about -six miles long and one mile wide, and is formed of an oolitic coralline -limestone. It is the highest point of the Florida Keys, yet of such -insignificant altitude that the most elevated point is only fifteen feet -above the sea level. The soil is thin, swampy and but little cultivated. -It produces, however, a thick jungle-like growth of mangroves, cacti, -tamarinds, mastics, gum elemi, and similar tropical bushes from twelve -to fifteen feet in height. There is no fresh water except that furnished -by the rains. Wells are dug in different parts, and reach water at the -depth of a few feet, but brackish and unpalatable. So closely, indeed, -are these wells in connection with the surrounding ocean, that the water -rises and falls in them as the tides do on the shore, but following -after an interval of about three hours. - -The town is in latitude 24° 33´. It was incorporated in 1829. The -present population is 4,800, of which 1500 are colored. It is situated -on the northern part of the western end of the island, and has an -excellent harbor. Duval is the principal street. Rows of cocoanut palms -line some of the principal avenues, presenting a very picturesque -appearance. A fine view of the harbor and town can be had from the -cupola of Mr. Charles Tilt, agent of the Baltimore line of steamers. - -Many of the residences are neat and attractive. The lower part of the -town is known as Conch town. Its inhabitants are called Conches, and are -principally engaged in “wrecking,” that is, relieving and rescuing the -numerous vessels which are annually cast away or driven ashore on the -treacherous Florida reef. The Conches are of English descent, their -fathers having migrated from the Bahamas. In spite of the dubious -reputation which they have acquired, they are a hard working and -sufficiently honest set, and carry on their perilous occupation if not -quite for the sake of humanity, yet content with a just salvage. Their -favorite vessels are sloops of ten to forty tons, which they manage with -extraordinary skill. - -Quite a number of Spaniards are domesticated in Key West. The dark eyes, -rich tresses, graceful forms, and delicate feet of the ladies frequently -greet the eye. Havana is only eighty-four miles distant, with almost -daily communication. - -Fine oranges, coacoanuts, alligator pears, cigars and other good things -for which the Pearl of the Antilles is famous can readily be obtained. -The favorite social drink is champerou, a compound of curacoa, eggs, -Jamaica spirits and other ingredients. Fish are abundant and finely -flavored. A variety of sardine has been found in the waters near, and -has been used commercially to a limited extent. - -The principal industries are “sponging” and “turtling.” The sponges are -collected along the reef and shores of the peninsula. From December, -1868, to March, 1869, 14,000 pounds were received by one merchant. They -are all, however, of inferior quality. - -The turtles are of four varieties. The green turtle is the most highly -prized as food. They are sometimes enormous in size, weighing many -hundred pounds. The hawke-bill turtle is the variety from which -“tortoise shell” for combs, etc., is obtained. The loggerhead and duck -bill are less esteemed. - -Extensive salt works have long been in operation here. They produce -annually about 30,000 bushels of salt by solar evaporation. Corals and -shells of unusual beauty are found among the keys, and can be bought for -a trifling amount. Handsome canes made of the Florida crab-tree, are -also to be purchased. - -Key West is a U. S. naval station for supplying vessels with coal, -provisions, etc. There is a Naval Hospital near the town, 100 feet in -length, and several other extensive public buildings. As in a military -point of view the point is deemed of great importance in protecting our -gulf coast, the general government has gone to large expense in -fortifying it. Fort Taylor, at the entrance of the harbor, is still in -process of construction. When completed, it will mount 200 heavy guns. -Besides it there are two large batteries, one on the extreme north part -of the island, and one midway between it and Fort Taylor. The Barracks -are usually occupied by a company of the 5th U. S. Artillery. - -The climate of Key West is the warmest and the most equable in the -United States. Even in winter the south winds are frequently oppressive -and debilitating. From five to ten “northers” occur every winter, and -though they are not agreeable on account of the violence of the wind, -they do not reduce the temperature below 40 degrees Fahr. - -Though the proximity of the Gulf Stream renders the air very moist, -mists and fogs are extremely rare, owing to the equability of the -temperature, and though the hygrometer shows that the air is constantly -loaded with moisture, this same equability allows the moon and stars to -shine with a rare and glorious brilliancy, such as we see elsewhere on -dry and elevated plateaux. - -Another effect of the Gulf Stream may also be noted. Every evening, -shortly after sunset, a cloud-bank rises along the southern horizon in -massive, irregular fleeces, dark below and silver gilt above by the rays -of the departing sun. This is the cloud-bank over the Gulf Stream, whose -vast current of heated waters is rushing silently along, some twelve -miles off. - - -DRY TORTUGAS. FORT JEFFERSON. - -Two steamers of the Alliance line from Key West, touch monthly at the -Tortugas. Also, two schooners ply between the two points. - -The Dry Tortugas (Sp. Turtle islands), are a group of small coral -islands, about a score in number, fifty miles west of Key West. Garden -Key is the main island, upon which Fort Jefferson is situated. It is -about one mile in circumference, comprising nine acres of ground. The -fort is an irregular hexagonal structure, of double circular walls of -brick and earth, with a foundation of coral rock. It was commenced in -1846. The entrance is through a handsome and massive *_sallyport_. -Inside, on the right, are the lighthouse and keeper’s residence. - -Between the walls the barracks and officers’ quarters are situated. A -well-kept walk of cement leads from the sallyport to the latter. Within -the inner wall is an open space of about fifteen acres, well set in -Bermuda grass, and dotted here and there with cocoanut palms. - -There is a good library in the fort. Service every Sunday by an army -chaplain. - -Nearly a thousand prisoners were confined here during the war. At one -time the yellow fever carried off great numbers of them. Sand Key, a -barren sand bank of twenty-five acres, is used as a cemetery. Loggerhead -Key, some miles west, has a tall and symmetrical lighthouse. Bird Key is -a favorite resort of turtles. - - -MIAMI AND KEY BISCAYNE BAY. - -_Mail Schooner_ on the 1st and 15th of every month from Key West. -Accommodations poor and insufficient. No public house, and few settlers -at Miami. - -Undoubtedly the finest winter climate in the United States, both in -point of temperature and health, is to be found on the south-eastern -coast of Florida. It is earnestly to be hoped, for the sake of invalids, -that accommodations along the shore at Key Biscayne and at the mouth of -the Miami, will, before long, be provided, and that a weekly or -semi-weekly steamer be run from Key West thither. In the concluding -chapters of this book I shall give in detail my reasons for thinking so -highly of that locality, and shall here describe it with some -minuteness. One strong argument in its favor I insert here. While it is -the very _best_, it could also be made the _most accessible_ part of the -sea coast of Florida, as the whole journey from the north or north-west -could be made by water; the only transhipment being at Key West. - -On leaving the harbor the schooner takes a southerly course, passing on -the left numbers of low keys covered with dense mangrove bushes, quite -concealing their shores. Here and there are gleaming ridges of white -rocks, over which the breakers tumble in glittering sheets of foam. This -is a portion of the dreaded reef, on which unnumbered vessels have met -their destruction. These naked islets, uninhabited and surrounded by the -interminable moan of the ocean, impressed with an undefined sense of -sadness the early Spanish mariners. They therefore called them Los -Martires (the Martyrs); “and well they deserve the name,” says the old -chronicler, “for many a man, since then, has met a painful death upon -them.” (Herrera, _Historia de las Indias. Dec. I, Lib. IX, cap. X_.) - -These are kept within sight until the Cape Florida light comes into -view, (latitude 25 degrees, 39 minutes, 56 seconds,) on the extreme -southern point of Key Biscayne. On rounding the light, Key Biscayne Bay -is entered. This is a body of water about twenty-five miles long, and -from two to six miles broad. The settlement of Miami is on the river of -that name, a clear, beautiful stream, fringed with mangrove, and marked -for some distance with a long line of coacoanut trees, laden with their -large, green fruit. At its mouth it is about a hundred yards wide, with -an average depth of six feet. There are about a dozen settlers on Key -Biscayne Bay. Lieutenant Governor Gleason resides at Miami, and will -entertain travelers to the extent that he can. - -At this part of the coast, a ridge of loose coralline limestone about -four miles in width, and from ten to twenty-five feet in height, extends -along the shore between the bay and the Everglades. No ponds of stagnant -water are near, and the soil, though not very rich, is a loose, sandy -loam, exceedingly well adapted for garden vegetables and fruit. Arrow -root (_Maranta arundinacea_) and the koonta, an allied plant, grow in -great abundance, and are highly prized by the Indians as food. - -Arch creek empties into Key Biscayne bay ten miles north of the Miami -river. It receives its name from a *natural arch of limestone rock, -fifty feet wide, which spans the waters of the stream as they flow -through a channel a number of feet below. - -The *_Punch bowl_ is the name given by the sailors to a curious natural -well about one mile south of the mouth of the Miami and close to the -shore. It is always filled with good sweet water and is greatly resorted -to on that account. - -Game, as deer, bear, turkeys, etc., is very abundant in the pine woods -which extend along the coast, and fish swarm in countless numbers in the -bay. Turtle of the finest kinds can be caught on the islets off shore. -Oysters are plentiful, but smaller and not so well flavored as on the -gulf coast. - -When it is remembered that in addition to these desirable advantages, -the temperature of this favored spot is so equable that it does not vary -in some years more than 25°, its advantages as a resort for invalids -will be evident. - -The abundance of game on the shore ridge from Cape Sable to the Miami, -led it to be chosen as a favorite spot of resort by the Indians, and it -is still known distinctively as the “Hunting Grounds.” Its character is -quite uniform. Near the shore is a breadth of rolling prairie land at -points quite narrow, at others six miles in width, and elevated from -three to eight or ten feet above high water. This is backed by a ridge -about one quarter of a mile wide, covered with pines and black -mangroves. - -Most of the keys are cut by deep lagoons, and the whole of their -surfaces are under water at high tide. Only a few have any soil fit for -vegetables, and settlements upon them are very scarce. Old and New -Matacumba have springs of fresh water, and were one of the last resorts -of the ancient Caloosa Indians. Dove and Tea Table Keys are said to have -the richest soil, “the best I have seen in Florida,” says Mr. Wainright, -of the U. S. Coast Survey. - - - - -9. THE WESTERN COAST. - - -Steamers from Key West touch at all the principal points on the western -or Gulf coast of the peninsula. - -This coast is very much the same in character throughout its whole -extent. It is an almost continuous belt of marsh, cut by innumerable -creeks and bayous, extending from five to fifteen miles into the -interior. Thousands of small islands covered with stunted mangroves, and -wholly or in part overflowed at high water, conceal the main land. The -channels between them are usually shallow, with mud bottoms, and in -parts, the slope of the shore is so gradual that low water exposes a mud -flat one to two miles wide. - -From Key West to St. Marks there are two tides daily, in the twenty-four -(lunar) hours, one, the highest, rising from one foot to one foot six -inches. From St. Marks to the Mississippi the smaller tide disappears, -so there remains but one daily. - -Immediately north of Cape Sable, which shows from the sea a sand-beach -three feet high, are the Thousand Isles, some few of which were formerly -cultivated by Spanish planters. Charlotte Harbor, between latitude 26 -degrees 30 seconds and 27 degrees, is entered by the Boca Grande, which -has fifteen feet of water at low tide. The bay itself has a depth of -three or four fathoms. At its southern extremity it receives the waters -of Caloosahatchee river. This stream has a depth of twelve feet for -thirty-five or forty miles, and with a little expense could be rendered -navigable for steamboats. The lower part of its course is through -swamps, but about twenty-five miles up, it flows through high lands -covered with palms, oak, pine, and palmetto. - -Between Charlotte Harbor and Sarasota Bay the shore forms a straight -line of white sand beach several feet in height, and covered with pine -and cypress. Sarasota Bay is about twenty miles long, and one to four -broad, dotted with numerous mangrove islets. Its depth is about eight -feet. - -North of Tampa bay are several small rivers, the Pithlo-chas-kotee, or -boat-building river, the Chassahowitzka, the Crystal, the Homosassa, and -the Wethlocco-chee or Withlacooche. Their banks are low and marshy, -producing little of value except a fine variety of cedar. Much of this -is exported to France and England for the manufacture of lead pencils. - -In the coves where the mud is not too deep oyster banks are numerous, -and on almost every little stream the traveler finds the shell heaps -left by the aborigines of the country. One of these of unusual size and -interest, on the Crystal River, I have described in the Annual Report of -the Smithsonian Institution for 1866, p. 356. - -Sponge reefs also occur at various parts of the coast and many small -vessels are employed in collecting these animals and drying them for the -market. - -The low lands along the coast are often rich, but they are unhealthy. -The United States Army Medical Reports pronounce them the most unhealthy -parts of the peninsula. This, however, does not apply to the sandy pine -tracts south of Tampa Bay, many of which still bear the imprint of an -extended cultivation in some past time. - - -TAMPA. - -_Hotels._--*Florida House, Orange Grove Hotel, both $2.00 per day, -$35.00 to $40.00 per month. - -_Boarding Houses._--Several in number, from $5.00 to $10.00 per week. - -_Mails._--By steamer, twice weekly; to Brookville, weekly. - -_Churches._--Baptist, Methodist, Roman Catholic. - -_Newspapers._--_The True Southerner_, republican; the _Florida -Peninsular_, democratic, both weekly. - -_Sailboats and Horses_, about $1.00 per day. - -Tampa is a town of 600 inhabitants, on the left (east) bank of -Hillsborough river, where it empties into Hillsborough bay. It is thirty -miles from the light house at the entrance of the harbor. The soil is -poor, covered chiefly with pine, red oak and palmettos. - -For many years this has been an important military station. Fort Brooke, -commenced 1823, stands on the reservation near the town, and additional -barracks have recently been erected. Several companies of infantry are -here most of the time. - -Excellent hunting and fishing can be had in the vicinity of Tampa. The -oysters in the bay are as large, abundant and finely flavored as -anywhere on the Gulf coast. The orange groves are flourishing and many -of the inhabitants raise garden vegetables. Old army officers have -learned to regard it as one of the best stations in the United States -for providing the mess. - -The land in the vicinity is level. A large Indian mound, nearly twenty -feet high, stands upon the reservation, close to the town. Last winter -(1869) this was opened by a curiosity seeker, and the usual contents of -Florida mounds--bones, pottery, ornaments, etc.--taken out. Beautiful -specimens of chalcedony and fortification agate, well known in -mineralogical cabinets, are found along the shore, washed out from the -marl. Above Tampa, on the Hillsborough river, is a Sulphur Spring thirty -feet in diameter and twelve feet deep. At the rapids of the Hillsborough -river, near the spring, a dark bluish siliceous rock, supposed to be -eocene, crops out. - - -MANATEE - -is a small town six miles from the mouth of Manatee river, near the -southern entrance of Tampa Bay. There is no hotel, but accommodations -can be had with Judge Gates, or other residents. Fine orange groves and -sugar plantations are near here. Manatee is a shallow, sluggish stream, -two miles wide, with salt water. A weekly mail boat with Tampa is the -only regular communication. Historically, Tampa, or Espiritu Santo Bay, -as the Spaniards named it, is interesting as the landing place of -Hernando de Soto in May, 1539. The precise spot where his soldiers -disembarked cannot now be decided. Theodore Irving (_Conquest of -Florida, p. 58_) places it immediately in the village of Tampa, at the -extreme head of Hillsborough Bay. Buckingham Smith, whose studies of the -old Spanish maps and records of Florida have been most profound, lays it -down at the entrance of Tampa Bay, on the south bank, between Manatee -river and the Gulf Shore. But he adds: “could I utterly disregard the -authority of old maps, and an opinion sanctioned by a long succession -of writers, I should judge the landing-place of Soto to be far southward -of Tampa.” - -After a short stay, the steamer leaves Tampa and heads for Cedar Keys, -distant one hundred and sixty miles; fare $10.00; time twenty-four -hours. This has already been described. The next point is St. Marks, the -terminus of the Tallahassee railroad, which has already been spoken of -in a previous route. (Distance 100 miles from Cedar Keys to St. Marks; -fare $10.00.) The steamer next stops at - - -APALACHICOLA, - -distant sixty miles from St. Marks. This town, once a place of -considerable trade, exporting a hundred thousand bales of cotton a year, -is now extremely dull. It has a good harbor, and being at the mouth of -the Chattahoochee river, has capacities not yet developed. Steamers run -from here to Bainbridge, Georgia, and all stations on the river. - -After leaving Apalachicola the steamer heads southward, the long, low -island, St. George’s, being visible on the left, and St. Vincent’s -island and the main land on the right. Once into the Gulf, no more land -is seen until the well-fortified entrance to Pensacola harbor comes in -sight. The town of Warrenton, where the United States navy yard is -situated, is first seen. It is a small place. - - -PENSACOLA. - -No hotel. Boarding houses by Mrs. Davis, on the beach, near the depot; -Mrs. Knapp, on Intendencia street; Mrs. Williams, on Palafox, the -principal street. Mr. Hoffman, at the depot, has good accommodations for -a limited number. Gentlemen can obtain lodging-rooms above Giovanni’s -confectionary store, on Palafox street, and meals at the City -Restaurant, opposite the square. The charge at the boarding houses is -$3.00 per day, $15.00 per week. - -A daily mail and telegraph office are now there. Baths and livery -stables convenient. - -_Newspapers._--The Pensacola _Observer_, tri-weekly; the West Florida -_Commercial_, weekly. Reading room for gentlemen at the “Gem” -restaurant. - -_Churches._--Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Methodist. - -_Physicians._--Drs. Hargis, Lee. - -Pensacola has about 2000 inhabitants, one-third of whom are colored. The -bay was discovered in 1559, by Don Tristan de Luna y Arellana, who named -it Santa Maria de Galve. He landed with 1500 men and a number of women -and children, intending to establish a permanent colony. The -neighborhood, however, proved barren, the ships were wrecked, and after -two years the few who survived returned to Mexico. In 1696, Don Andres -de Arriola made another attempt with more success. He constructed a fort -at the entrance of the harbor, and received the title Governor of -Pensacola, the name being taken from a small native tribe called -Pensocolos, who dwelt in the vicinity. The name is Choctaw, and means -“Hairy People.” In 1719, it was captured by the French, under M. de -Serigny, who lost and regained it within the year. In 1721, it reverted -to Spain, and some attempt was made by that power to lay out a city. - -A few old Spanish buildings yet stand, but have nothing about them -worthy of note. Half a mile north of the bay is the site of Fort St. -Michael, a commanding eminence, with a fine view of the bay and navy -yard. About six hundred yards north of St. Michael’s, stood Fort St. -Bernard, known as _el sombrero_, from its resemblance to a hat. Both -these edifices are completely demolished, and a few stones, potsherds, -and pieces of iron are all that remain to mark their positions. - -The climate of Pensacola is bracing in winter, but not at all suited to -consumptives. All such should avoid it, as they almost invariably grow -worse. The pine lands, twenty or thirty miles north of the city, are -much more favorable to such patients. - -A railroad is just finished from Pensacola to Montgomery, Ala., which -connects this seaport with Louisville and the northern States east of -the Mississippi. Doubtless this will give the old town quite an impetus -in growth. A pamphlet setting forth its advantages as a seaport and -place of residence was published in July of the present year (1869) by -A. C. Blount, President of the railroad. - - -MILTON - -Is a pleasant town of about a thousand inhabitants, thirty miles from -Pensacola. - -_Hotels._--Eagle and City Hotel, $2.25 a day in each. - -A daily steamboat line connects the two towns (fare $2) and a tri-weekly -line of hacks runs from Milton to Poland, Ala., en the Montgomery & -Mobile R. R., thirty-three miles--fare $5. - -After leaving Pensacola, the next stopping place of the steamer is - - -MOBILE. - -_Hotels._--The Battle House, corner Royal and St. Francis streets, $4.00 -per day, an old established and well known house; *Gulf City Hotel, -corner Water and Conti streets, $3 per day, $17.50 per week, $65 per -month, new and good; Roper House, corner Royal and St. Michael streets, -same price as Gulf City Hotel, except $50 per month; Girard House, 123 -Dauphin street, $2.50 per day; Goff House, Conti street, not first -class. - -_Post Office._--In Custom House, opposite the Battle House. Telegraph -and Express offices near by. - -_Bath Booms._--In Battle House, 50 cents; in Gulf City Hotel, 35 cents, -and in a barber shop on St. Francis street, opposite the ladies entrance -to the Battle House, 35 cents. - -_Restaurant._--Jenkins’, on Royal street, opposite the Battle House, is -the best. - -_Bookseller._--Putnam & Co., 52 Dauphin street. - -_Livery Stable._--Hayden & Meenan, 39 Royal street, near the Roper -House; carriage and driver, for half a day, $8.00; buggy, for half a -day, $5. - -_Newspapers._--The _Daily Register_; the _Daily Tribune_. - -_Physician._--Dr. T. S. Scales, 128 Dauphin street. - -_Omnibusses_ meet the boats and cars, and street cars run on the -principal streets--fare five cents and ten cents. - -_Theaters._--Mobile Theater, Variety Theater, both on Royal street. - -The city (population 35,000) is situated about thirty miles from the -Gulf of Mexico, on the west side of Mobile Bay. The bay is shallow and -the channel tortuous. The rivals of the city say that the entrance is -filling up, and will, before many generations, become little more than a -marsh. The site of the town is on a sandy plain, elevated about fifteen -feet above high tide, and is, consequently, well drained. The houses -extend along the bay nearly three miles. - -The city was founded by the French at the commencement of the last -century, but remained an insignificant post until 1819, when it was -incorporated. Since then it has grown with rapidity, and is now one of -the most active cotton ports in the United States. Many of the buildings -are handsome, and though the city suffered considerably during the war, -it is rapidly regaining its former wealth. An excellent Directory has -been published by the Southern Publishing Co. - -The Custom House is the finest public edifice. It is constructed of -marble. - -There is a public square in a central locality, and the abundance of -hedges of the Cherokee Rose, a flowering evergreen, gives the streets a -pleasant appearance. - - - - -PART III. - -CHAPTERS TO INVALIDS. - - - - -CHAP. 1.--WHEN IS A CHANGE OF CLIMATE ADVISABLE? - - -In these days when the slow coach of our fathers has long been -discarded, and steam and lightning are our draught horses, the -advantages to health of a change of climate should be considered by -every one. It is an easy, a pleasant, and a sure remedy in many a -painful disorder. Need I fortify such an assertion by the dicta of high -authorities? One is enough. “It would be difficult,” says Sir James -Clark, M.D., whose name is familiar to every physician in connection -with this very question, “to point out the chronic complaint, or even -the disordered state of health which is not benefitted by a timely and -judicious change of climate.” - -Let me run over this catalogue of maladies and specify some in which -“fresh fields and pastures new” are of especial value. All anticipate -the first I mention--pulmonary consumption,--that dreaded scourge which -year by year destroys more than did the cholera in its most fatal -epidemics. Even those who lay no claim to medical knowledge are well -aware how often the consumptive prolongs and saves his life by a timely -change of air; they are not aware--few doctors with their diplomas are -aware--how much oftener this fortunate result would be obtained were the -change made with judgment, and the invalid to lend his own energies in -this battle for life which his constitution is waging against disease. -How to make this change with judgment, and how to employ these energies, -these chapters are intended to inform him. - -The watchword of the battle is: _Courage_. It is, indeed, not rare to -see those who should have been left at home to die surrounded by home -comforts, exiled by their wearied physician, or dragged by the ignorant -solicitude of friends, late in their disease, to some strange land, -there to meet their inevitable fate, deprived of the little luxuries so -useful to them, served by unsympathizing strangers, far from the old, -familiar faces. There are others who go early enough, and are earnest in -their efforts to husband their flagging powers. But they have chosen a -climate ill-adapted to the form of their complaint, they know not the -precautions they should take, they have omitted provisions of essential -value, in fine, they “die of medicable wounds.” - -These examples should not discourage others. The medical science of -to-day gives its strongest endorsement to this maxim: _Consumption is -cureable_, IF TAKEN IN ITS EARLY STAGES. And in its cure, change of -climate is an essential element. Nor does science hesitate to go -farther. Even when the lungs are decidedly affected, even when the -practised ear of the physician detects that ominous gurgling sound in -the chest which reveals the presence of a cavity in the lungs, it still -says _Hope_. We know that even then there is a good chance for life in -many cases. Often the disease has invaded but a very circumscribed -portion of lung and all the remainder is healthy; sometimes having gone -thus far it seems to have spent its malignant powers, and rests for -years, or disappears altogether; often under the genial influence of -appropriate climate and regimen, the ulcer heals and health is restored. - -Bronchitis is another complaint which calls for change of air. There are -persons who contract a cough regularly at the beginning of every winter, -which disappears only with the warm spring days. They hawk, and -expectorate, and have pains in the breast, and a sore and tickling -throat all the cold months. This is bronchitis, chronic bronchitis. -Clergymen are very liable to it from neglect of precautions in using the -voice. It is quite common among elderly people, and often paves the way -for their final illness. In young persons it portends consumption. -Nothing so effectually dispels it as a winter in a warm climate. I speak -now from my own experience. - -There is a disease not less common, hardly less formidable, often more -distressing, more repulsive, than consumption. It is scrofula--that -taint in the blood by which the sins of the fathers are visited upon the -children unto and beyond the third and fourth generation. It often -throws around its victims the charms of a strange beauty and a -precocious, _spiritual_, intelligence. But the wise physician regards -with anxious forbodings these signs so prized by loving friends. Here, -too, a total change of air, diet, surroundings, is urgently, often -imperatively, demanded. - -One of the banes of our raw, damp atmosphere is rheumatism. It is -painful, it is common, it is dangerous. In recent years we have learned -that a fatal complication is alarmingly frequent in this -complaint--organic disease of the heart. In examining for life -insurance, we enquire particularly if the candidate is rheumatic. If the -answer is affirmative, three times out of four we detect some unnatural -action in this great centre of life. Now, it is well known how -beneficially a warm, equable climate acts on sufferers with this malady. -Let them, therefore, be warned in time to seek this means of prolonging -life. - -There is a complaint which makes us a burden to ourselves, and too often -a nuisance to our companions. It is not dangerous, but is most trying. I -mean dyspepsia, a hydra-headed disease, wearing alike to mind and body. -The habits of our countrymen and countrywomen predispose them to it. In -our great cities it is exceedingly prevalent. It, too, is always -relieved, often completely cured by traveling--and often nothing but -this will cure it. - -The same may be said of those states of nervous and mental exhaustion, -consequent on the harrassing strain of our American life, our -over-active, excitable, national temperament. This exhaustion shows -itself in the faltering step, the care-worn expression, the disturbed -nutrition, in palpitation, in irritability, in causeless anxiety, and a -legion of similar symptoms. Doctors call it _paresis_, and say that it -is a new disease, a visitation of nature upon us for our artificial, -unquiet lives. - -There is an era in life when no actual disease is present, when the body -visibly yields to the slow and certain advance of age. The mind, too, -sympathises, and loses the keenness of its faculties. With most, this -is about the age of sixty. It has long been noticed how fatal this -period is. It is known as “the grand climacteric” in works on life. It -has also been noticed that it is the winter months especially that are -dangerous to persons at this age. The old Romans had this pregnant -expression: “_inimicior senibus hyems_,”--winter, the foe of the aged. -Modern research proves its correctness. An English physician, Dr. Day, -calculating from nearly 55,000 cases over sixty years of age, discovered -the startling fact that the deaths in January were within a small -fraction _twice as many_ as in July! Such an unexpected statement -reminds us of that significant expression of another distinguished -statistician who had studied closely the relation of mortality and -temperature: “Waves of heat are waves of life; and waves of cold are -waves of death.” With these, and a hundred similar warnings before us, -we are safe in saying that in many cases entire relaxation from business -and two or three winters in a warm climate about the age of sixty, will -add ten years to life. - -I now approach a delicate topic. A warm climate promises aid where -medicines are utterly ineffectual. I mean in marriages not blessed by -offspring. Most readers know how early females are married in the -tropics. Mothers of fourteen and sixteen years are not uncommon. Heat -stimulates powerfully the faculty of reproduction. The wives of the -French colonists in Algiers are notably more fertile than when in their -Northern homes. So we can with every reason recommend to childless -couples, without definite cause of sterility, a winter in the south. I -have known most happy effects from it. - - - - -CHAP. II.--WHAT CLIMATE SHALL BE CHOSEN? - - -This is a question of vital importance. An error here is fatal. Every -person, every case of the same disease, is not at all suited by the same -climate. Many an invalid who would survive for years, if he passed his -winters in Florida, is sent to die in the cold, dry air of Minnesota; -some who would find health at St. Paul, choose to perish at St. -Augustine; there are some whose safety lies in the mountains, others who -can find it nowhere but on the sea shore. - -Neither patients nor physicians fully appreciate the extreme importance -of deciding correctly here, and abiding by the decision. The invalid is -apt to go where it is most convenient, or most agreeable for him to go. -He goes where he has friends. He goes at his peril. - -I have in mind the case of a young priest, the only child of his -parents, loved by them as an only child is loved by the warm Irish -heart. Before leaving the seminary, unmistakeable signs of consumption -showed themselves. By assiduous care, he passed the winter comfortably, -and as spring approached, his disease was checked. Every symptom abated. -He gained in weight and strength. The cough nearly disappeared; the -night sweats left him; his appetite returned. When summer opened, I said -to him: “Go to the mountains. Complete restoration awaits you there. -Avoid the sea shore. It is death to you.” I heard nothing more from him -for two months. Then I was summoned in haste I found him with an -irritative fever, with daily chills, with a distressing cough. He had -been to the mountains for several weeks, and had improved so rapidly -that he thought himself well, and concluded to join some friends on the -Atlantic shore. He did so, and the result was before me. I then had the -most painful duty of a physician’s life to perform,--that of informing a -mother that her only child is beyond human aid. - -And here I must say, with all deference to the faculty, that the -ignorance and carelessness of physicians in reference to this matter of -climate are at most reprehensible. Few of them make any distinction in -cases. They send all consumptives to Minnesota, or to Texas, or to -Florida, or to Cuba, as if in every instance what is sauce for goose is -also sauce for gander. Thus it happens that the most eligible climates -gain a bad reputation. They suit many, perhaps most, but they do not -suit _all_. Go to Nice, Naples, the Isle of Pines, you will find -invalids who unquestionably, were they at home, would be in a better -place. This is chiefly the fault of their physicians. When a doctor -recommends a climate, and yet is unable to tell you its temperature, its -moisture, its prevailing winds, its seasons, its local diseases, its -articles of food, its water, its mineral springs, its accommodations for -travellers--beware of him. He is a dangerous counsellor. These facts the -physician _must_ know to advise wisely. - -There are others which he must learn from the invalid himself. -Constitutions are differently affected by climate, and so are cases of -the same disease. Some climates are sedative and relaxing, others tonic -and bracing; some are moist and soothing, others dry and steeling. Some -constitutions are nervous and irritable, others torpid and sluggish; -some have plenty of latent force which needs use, in others the vital -powers are naturally weak, and must be carefully husbanded. In some -cases, the symptoms are of an inflammatory, in others of an atonic -character; in some, the secretions are scanty, in others profuse; in -some, considerations of diet are of great importance, in others they do -not enter; in some, the cough is importunate, in others, hardly -annoying--and a hundred other differences might be added. The question -is a complicated one. It asks for its solution the utmost care of the -physician. It almost demands the trained skill of the specialist. - -I repeat, therefore, that no climate can be recommended indiscriminately -to all; that the climate must be selected by an intelligent physician -who has carefully studied the case; that the locality which brings life -to one, brings death to another; and, therefore, that having decided on -a change of climate, it is of vital importance to select the right one. - -The decision between a warm and a cold climate must be made somehow -thus: If you have usually borne cold well, if you have not been subject -to cold feet and hands, and disagreeable chilliness; if you are -accustomed to out-door exercise in winter; if you are not subject to -catarrhs, pneumonia, pleurisy, coughs, irritation of the pharynx; if you -are not plethoric; if you are free from rheumatic, neuralgic or gouty -pains which become worse as winter approaches; if your throat is anæmic -rather than congestive, and your liver torpid; if your health is not -already too much reduced to stand the icy winds of the north; if you -prefer winter to summer, and the cold to the hot months; if heat -oppresses you and enervates you;--then if you want to change your -climate, go to Minnesota, to Labrador, or the Canadian highlands. But -no, this is not all. Have you a fancy for any particular spot among -those famous for salubrity? Is there a pastime or pursuit to which you -are addicted? Do you love to boat, fish, hunt, ride, camp out, botanize, -photograph? Indulge your taste. Such considerations have quite as much -weight as many a medical reason. Then there is the question of money. If -you carry the cares of business with you; if you have to pinch and spare -on your journey; if you are worried about your expenses, the trip will -do you little good, I have tried to give accurate accounts of the cost -of living in the South, so that a traveler may know what to expect -there. - -All these matters have to be weighed, and from them a conclusion reached -as to what climate is best. It is a complicated question, and it is not -enough that the doctor make his diagnosis and then oracularly pronounces -the name of some locality as that best suited for your disease. It is -easy for him, but it may turn out hard for you. - - - - -CHAP. III--WHERE IS THE BEST SOUTHERN WINTER CLIMATE? - - -In studying this question of climate, more particularly with reference -to those who suffer from diseases of the throat and lungs, I have taken -some pains to satisfy myself whereabout in the South those of them whom -a Southern climate suits will find the most eligible climatic conditions -in winter. I shall give the result of my studies, though for reasons -which will soon appear, it is of no great use just now. I build for the -future. - -The model climate for such invalids must satisfy four conditions. It -must have an equable temperature, moderate moisture, moderate and -regular winds, and freedom from local disease. - -First about temperature. Here the mere amount of heat or cold is not so -much to be looked at, as what meteorologists call the _range_. The -thermometer should show no great difference in the day and the night, or -between one day and another. Sudden changes should not appear on the -record. Warmth is desirable because it leads to a life in the open air, -prevents chilly and close rooms, and soothes the irritable air passages. -Heat above seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit is objectionable, because it -is debilitating, and hinders exercise. - -In the United States, Key West has the warmest climate and the least -range. Its mean annual temperature is 76°.5; its range 52° Fahrenheit. -This is rather too hot. Nor is it free from some other objections. The -island is small, barren, and uninteresting; there are no rides and -drives, and violent winds from the north and northeast occur more or -less every winter. - -Many have lauded the climate of Texas. It is true that the hottest -portions of that State have a mean annual temperature of 73°. But then -the winters there are as cold as in Southern Georgia, and the range is -nowhere less than 70°, and generally 80° to 90°. Then there are the -“northers,” chilling winds from the north, which reduce the temperature -10° to 20° in a few hours. In fine, the climate is much less equable -than on the south Atlantic coast. The winter temperature of most of -Texas is as low as that of South Carolina. - -This is too low. The mean temperature of Charleston, S. C., is 66°, the -range nearly 95°. At Savannah the temperature of the year is 65°, the -range about 90°. The summers at these points are hot, the winter months -often cold, damp, and raw. It is precisely these months, and these only, -which interest us just now. To present the matter more fully I extract -the following table from the Medical statistics of the U. S. Army. It is -based on careful observations extending over many years, and shows the -temperature of each of the winter months in a number of places in the -South: - - ----------------+-----------+----------+----------- - Locality. | December. | January. | February. - ----------------+-----------+----------+----------- - Aiken, S. C., | 47° | 45° | 50° - Charleston, | 52 | 51 | 52 - Savannah, | 53 | 52 | 55 - Tallahassee, | 55 | 55 | 60 - Mobile, | 52 | 55 | 50 - Pensacola, | 56 | 54 | 56 - St. Augustine, | 57 | 57 | 60 - New Smyrna, | 63 | 62 | 64 - Cedar Keys, | 62 | 58 | 58 - Tampa Bay, | 61 | 61 | 63 - Ocala, | 63 | 58 | 58 - Miami River, | 67 | 66 | 67 - Key West, | 70 | 69 | 70 - Corpus Christi, | 57 | 56 | 57 - ----------------+-----------+----------+----------- - -Corpus Christi is the hottest place in Texas; yet its winters are colder -than on the eastern coast of Florida, and its annual range is 70 -degrees. The highest winter temperature observed anywhere on the -mainland of the United States was at Fort Dallas on the Miami river, and -at New Smyrna, some miles north of it, both on the east coast of -Florida. Furthermore, their range is less than anywhere else. During -four years that the army officers watched the thermometer at Fort -Dallas, the highest point reached by the mercury was 95 degrees; the -lowest 35 degrees; a range, therefore, of 60 degrees in four years. - -I conclude therefore that the most equable climate of the United States -is on the south-eastern coast of Florida. - -I shall dismiss the second condition in a few words. Moist warmth is -soothing; dryness is irritating; every one who has worn a poultice knows -this. A moist, warm air, moderately charged with vapor, or even -approaching a saturated condition, is therefore, as a rule, most -agreeable to the air passages, and the general comfort. In winter, all -along our southern seaboard the air is moist; it is sufficiently warm -and moist both, nowhere but in southeastern Florida, as the table of -winter temperatures shows us. - -A moist atmosphere is not always a rainy one. A rainy climate, no matter -what other conditions it may have, is a detestable one. Southern Florida -has a hot and rainy season from May to September. Everything moulds, and -drips, and steams. The rainfall averages every year from forty-five to -sixty inches. But nearly all of it falls in the summer months. In -December, January and February, two, two and a half, and three inches a -month are an ordinary average. This means that the weather is much more -generally fair than foul. - -The third condition is the prevalence of moderate and regular winds. I -have already hinted about the Texan “northers.” Similar windstorms occur -throughout the Gulf States. I have felt them disagreeably at Key West, -though there the tepid waters of the Gulf of Mexico temper their blasts. -Sometimes they blow violently for thirty-six or forty-eight hours. On -the southeastern coast of Florida they are both warmed by the Gulf, and -lessened in violence by the woods of the peninsula. The winds there are -in winter usually north, northeast, and northwest. In summer a breeze -from the sea sets in about ten A. M., which often reduces the -temperature about six degrees in ten minutes, without causing other than -a pleasant sensation. At night a land breeze blows off the land. - -The occasional cold winds in winter are an objection from which no part -of our southern country is wholly free. Moderate winds are essential to -the purity of the atmosphere, and these generally prevail along the -Gulf. - -The fourth condition of climate is a vital one. I have witnessed the -results of months of care destroyed by a single attack of intermittent -fever. I have already stated that miasmatic fevers are extremely common -in the interior of Florida during the summer and early autumn, but they -do not occur on the sea coast during the late autumn and winter. - -This is especially true of southeastern Florida. Portions of our army -were stationed there during all seasons, for a number of years, and the -testimony of the army surgeons is unanimous and most favorable. And let -me here remind the reader that the surgeons of the United States Army -are thoroughly educated physicians, of unequaled experience in all the -variety of climate which our country presents, and who, having no -quarter sections to sell, or other axe to grind, give their evidence -with the utmost impartiality. Here is one quotation from a report to the -Surgeon General, dated at Fort Pierce, on Indian river: “This post has a -climate, in every respect, perhaps, unsurpassed by any in the world.” -And these are the words of Dr. R. F. Simpson, U. S. A., writing about -Fort Dallas, on the Miami, the very spot I have been maintaining -approaches nearest the model climate for consumptives: “I have been on -duty at most of the posts in Florida, but _none compare_ with this for -salubrity.” - -The sea coast of south-east Florida, therefore, fulfils the four -conditions which make up the best climate for a consumptive. I have -other testimony about it well worth presenting. It, too, comes from the -same unimpeachable source,--the medical statistics of the United States -Army. I preface it by a fact of general interest about the whole of -Florida. All know how terribly arduous must be campaigning through the -swamps and everglades of that State. Yet the yearly mortality from -disease of the regular army there, was only twenty-six per thousand men. -The average of the army elsewhere was thirty-five per thousand, while in -Texas it rose to forty, and on the lower Mississippi to forty-four per -thousand. - -But the character of disease interests us most just now. We are -inquiring particularly about throat and lung complaints. These army -statistics are here of immense value. They specify the diseases of each -station. I have taken these four: Consumption (phthisis pulmonalis), -bronchitis, inflammation of the lungs (pneumonia), and pleurisy; and -have ascertained their relative frequency at various points in the -South. Here are the results (omitting fractions): In Arkanzas, each -year, one man in every sixteen came under the surgeon’s hands, with one -or other of these diseases; on the southern frontier of Texas, also one -in sixteen; at Baton Rouge, La., one in seventeen; on the western -frontier of Texas, one in nineteen; on the west coast of Florida, one in -twenty-one; on the east coast of Florida, _one in thirty-nine_! - -This is confirmation strong indeed. Even in the favored northwest, we -may look in vain for anything equal to it. The sick reports of St. Paul, -Minn., show one in every nineteen, yearly treated for these complaints. - -Yet all this avails nothing, so long as there are no accommodations for -invalids, in this favored region, none of the conveniences of civilized -life, few inhabitants of any kind, hardly any means of getting there. -There are bluffs forty feet high and more, on Indian river, beautiful -localities along Key Biscayne Bay, in a glorious climate, healthy beyond -any in our country, very easy of access from Key West, near the best -hunting grounds of Florida, where an abundance of the most delicious -tropical fruits could be raised, where fish, sea turtles and oysters -abound; all that is needed is a weekly steamer from Key West, and a few -plain, well kept, moderate priced hotels, to make it the most eligible -spot in the South for the invalid or the tourist. - -It has other attractions. I have been told that it is the only part of -Florida where the pine apple will grow in the open air. Certainly -guavas, pomegranates, dates, alligator pears, (that fruit which it is -worth a voyage to the tropics to taste,) sugar apples and most of the -other appetizing luxuries of the torrid zone would flourish. - -The climate in winter is serene, from two-and-a-half to three inches of -rain falling per month. The mean daily marking of the thermometer from -November to April is 72°, of the hygrometer 68°. Here is another hint. -The arrow root (_maranta arundinacea_) grows along Key Biscayne in great -abundance. It furnishes the very finest form of starch known, a most -admirable article of diet for the sick, and a most profitable one to the -cultivator. Its wholesale price in our markets is from fifty to -seventy-five cents per pound; there is always a demand for it, and tens -of thousands of pounds a year could be readily gathered. - -I have already detailed at some length the position, soil, etc., of Key -Biscayne Bay (ante p. 102). But, as already said, I build for the -future, and not the present. It has the best warm climate in the United -States for invalids, and it deserves to become a much frequented spot. - - - - -CHAP. IV.--SOME HINTS TO HEALTH SEEKERS. - - -In the introductory remarks I have thrown out a number of suggestions -which every traveler in the South will do well to heed. I am now going -to _servir un plat de mon metier_--to offer some admonitions to invalids -distinctively, and especially those suffering or threatened with -pulmonary and bronchial affections. How often does one see invalids -abroad deluding themselves with the idea that the climate alone will -cure them! Vain hope. Better remain at home and die, if need be, than -undertake long and fatiguing journeys with any such expectation. The -result in either case is the same. - -There are certain rules of personal hygiene and diet which are half the -battle, which might win it at home, which will almost surely win it if -the right change of climate is made in time. They are not applicable to -all, but they must form the basis of every regimen. - -And here, once more, I repeat the watchword, _Courage_. If improvement -is not manifest at once, do not become disheartened. Often it is months, -often it is not until after the return home that the hoped for change -for the better is obvious. The interim is at best wearisome. Make it as -cheerful as possible. Valetudinarians should not travel alone. They fall -easy victims to Giant Despair, who is still as ready as ever to pounce -on unwary travelers, especially on wet days, alone in dull country -taverns, with nothing to think of but themselves and their own aches and -pains. Go in company and always have a resource for spare hours. - -No resource is better than to collect something. There are bugs, and -butterflies, and mosses, and fossils, and flowers, and Indian -curiosities, and species of woods, and birds’ eggs, and skins, and -minerals, the pursuit of either one of which will give healthful -exercise in fair weather, and their arrangement interesting occupation -when it rains. - -I am almost pleased, for the invalid’s sake, to say that as for -treasures of art, Florida has none. There are no interminable picture -galleries, or cold, damp churches, or belvideres, or other such æsthetic -afflictions to visit, the frequency of which in Italy is a serious -drawback to the seeker after health. On the other hand, Nature has -spread out boundless attractions in the animal, the vegetable, and the -mineral worlds, the study of which has ever something soothing and -rejuvenating. - -Exercise in the open air every day should be taken religiously and -regularly. The kind of exercise must depend on circumstances. Rowing -develops the chest and arms; walking, the lower limbs; riding is an -excellent stimulant of the liver and lungs. When possible, they should -be alternated. An hour each morning and afternoon should be consecrated -to this purpose. A cheerful companion is an admirable adjunct in any of -them. - -There is another exercise of the greatest value. No person with a weak -chest should neglect to practice every morning and evening, for ten or -fifteen minutes at a time, _deep inspirations_. It is done thus: Stand -or sit erect, throw the chest well forward, the arms back, then open the -mouth and inhale slowly to the full capacity of the lungs. Retain the -air several seconds _by an increased effort_, and then let it gradually -escape. Breathe naturally a few times, then repeat the inspiration. This -simple procedure has a wonderful influence. It increases the breathing -power of the lungs, it expands the walls of the chest, in the opinion of -some learned physicians, Professor Piorry of Paris for example, it is -actually curative where tuberculous deposit has already taken place. But -whenever else exercise is taken, it is best not to be before breakfast. -Another salutary habit is to bathe the whole body every morning with -salt and water of the temperature of the room. There is no real -difficulty in this, even when traveling. A sponge or a wash towel, and a -coarse dry towel for the skin, are all that is required. A plunge bath -is as good, but not so convenient. When neither can be taken, the whole -person should receive a thorough dry-rubbing. But the salt water bath is -most useful to the invalid. - -It would give me great pleasure to discuss at length the subject of -_food_. But in fact tourists in most parts of the South must make up -their minds to such fare as they can get, not such as they want. For -instance, I place in the first line of the bill of fare for consumptives -the article _milk_, fresh rich milk, five or six tumblers of it a day, -dashed now and then, if you please, with a trifle of good old cognac or -Jamaica spirits. Now milk is precisely the scarcest article at a Florida -hotel in winter. - -I lived once for a month on a plantation in the extreme south of the -peninsula. The proprietor had two hundred head of cattle--many of the -cows with calves--yet we actually did not have milk enough for our -coffee. - -In the next line of my bill of fare I place EGGS; three or four a day, -boiled soft, or taken in the guise of a “flip,” with pale sherry. These, -too, are not always, nor often, to be had for the asking in this -country, where nature has done so much for the invalid and man so -little. Fat meat comes next, or, in its place, butter and olive oil may -be freely used. Coffee and chocolate are allowable; tea barely -permissible. Tobacco, even the tasteless, “washed,” Florida tobacco, -absolutely prohibited in every form. Some pure rye or wheat whisky may -be taken, well diluted, three times a day, if it causes no unpleasant -sensations, but all excess should be shunned. And, here, I advise those -who wish pure liquors not to depend on hotel bars, restaurants, or -provincial drug stores, but to provide them before leaving home. - -Whatever food is taken, should be taken as nearly as possible at -regular hours, in moderate quantities, and more frequently than in -health. Those who are weak, will find great comfort in having a cup of -broth, a glass of milk punch, or some similar food, placed by their bed -on retiring, to take during the night. Late suppers, however, should be -avoided. - -In choosing a residence, see that it is at a distance from stagnant -water, not very densely shaded, and not exposed to night fogs. The -sleeping room should be on an upper floor, with a southerly or westerly -exposure, and with plenty of air, light, and sunshine. The bed should -not be in a draft, nor in a recess, nor against the wall. A spring or -hair mattress, (cotton, so much used in the South, is not -objectionable), is most healthful, and it is of prime importance to -those with weak lungs, not to sleep under many covers. The windows may -be left open nightly, if the situation is dry. - -The question is often asked about exposure to night air. Our -distinguished literateur, N. P. Willis, long a sufferer with pulmonary -disease, used to maintain that the atmosphere at night was quite as -healthful as by day. The nightfall, when at dusk the temperature rapidly -lowers, he found most hurtful. The air at night is, as a rule, colder -than during the day, and is often saturated with moisture. Certainly, -therefore, those who think with Mr. Willis, will do well to protect -themselves by extra clothing. The safest plan is to avoid exposure, -except on unusually clear, mild, and dry evenings. - -The final suggestions I have to make are about medicines. I put them -last, because they are, in a certain sense, of secondary importance. -Many a patient destroys his digestive powers, and deteriorates his -blood by pouring down “stomach bitters,” “cough syrups,” “purging -pills,” and even the more appropriate prescriptions of his physician. -Cod-liver oil and iron, with perhaps a little syrup of wild cherry at -night to allay the cough, are the only drugs of much avail in -consumption, and the less one exclusively trusts to these for -recovering, the better. - -Quinine, prepared in three-grain pills, should be carried. One pill -before breakfast should be taken whenever one is exposed to the marsh -miasms. I have already suggested a tincture of the peel of the -bitter-sweet orange in whiskey, for the same purpose. - -Many persons, in traveling, become constipated. This is best avoided by -diet. The favorite Southern breakfast dish, “corn grits,” is an -admirable laxative. Corn bread with molasses, fruit early in the day, or -a glass of saline mineral water where it can be had, will generally be -sufficient. If these fail, one of the ordinary compound cathartic pills -can be taken before sleep, or one of the following before a meal: - - ℞. Pulverized rhubarb, 36 grains. - Soap, q. s. Make 12 pills. - -A bottle of mild solution of ammonia is useful for application to -musquito bites and the stings of insects. - -Restlessness at night in strange beds and new surroundings, is quite -common. A bath before retiring, or a glass of _hot_ (not warm) water -will quiet this nervous excitement. Granules of morphia, ¼ of a grain -each, should be carried, but used very sparingly, and only to relieve -pain. - -The first effect of a warm climate on many constitutions, is to bring -on a “bilious” attack. Headache, sick stomach, slight fever and -diarrhœa for a few days are the unpleasant symptoms of this first -brush of acclimation. It can best be avoided by a sparing diet, by -avoiding fatigue, the rays of the sun, and indulgence in fruit. The -treatment is perfect rest, some citrate of magnesia or other cooling -laxative, and low diet. - -Those who go by sea save themselves many annoyances, but in return run -the risk of sea-sickness. To avoid this, they should go aboard after a -moderate meal, keep on deck whenever the sea is smooth, remain in their -births when it is rough, take a little brandy, or, what is better, a -glass of champagne, when the nausea comes on, and wear a silk -handkerchief or broad girdle tied tightly around the stomach. - -By the careful observance of such rules as I have here laid down, and -such others as everyone’s good sense will suggest without prompting, -those in failing health can anticipate the best results from a winter in -the South. The fears which some entertain from the unpleasant feeling -toward Northerners, supposed to exist, are entirely groundless. I have -the best reason to know that there need not be the slightest anxiety on -this score. - -So, also, about the alleged dangers of travel over Southern railroads -and in Southern steamboats. In point of fact more people are injured on -the railroads of New York than of Florida. Moreover it is quite sure, as -Thoreau quaintly says in one of his books, “We sit as many risks as we -run,” and it is about as safe now-a-days on a railroad or in a steamboat -as at one’s own fireside. Such fears need not give a moment’s -uneasiness. - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -Jacksonville to Tallahasse=> Jacksonville to Tallahassee {pg v} - -Neverthless, two years afterwards=> Nevertheless, two years afterwards -{pg 27} - -the northen counties=> the northern counties {pg 43} - -Newpapers=> Newspapers {pg 57} - -undergrowth of palmetto give same=> undergrowth of palmetto gives same -{pg 58} - -associated with the atroicities=> associated with the atrocities {pg 59} - -can accomodate comfortably=> can accommodate comfortably {pg 60} - -the form of a trapezuim=> the form of a trapezium {pg 69} - -give them a chancesto=> give them a chance to {pg 74} - -the Kissimnee river=> the Kissimmee river {pg 77} - -here for India river=> here for Indian river {pg 78} - -the difficultyof access=> the difficulty of access {pg 79} - -6.--JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASEE=> 6.--JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE {pg 81} - -carried from St. Augutine=> carried from St. Augustine {pg 80} - -Talahassee Sentinel=> Tallahassee Sentinel {pg 84} - -at eighty-eighty feet=> at eighty-eighty feet {pg 87} - -Six miles beyond Lage Griffin=> Six miles beyond Lake Griffin {pg 92} - -the name Oklawha=> the name Oklawaha {pg 92} - -leaves Gainsville for Micanopy=> leaves Gainesville for Micanopy {pg 95} - -touch at Ceder Keys=> touch at Cedar Keys {pg 96} - -such insignificant altitutde=> such insignificant altitude {pg 98} - -of Hillsborouh river=> of Hillsborough river {pg 108} - -near the the town=> near the town {pg 108} - -more particuularly=> more particularly {pg 123} - -guavas, pomegrantes=> guavas, pomegranates {pg 129} - - - - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide-Book of Florida and the South -for Tourists, Invalids and Emigrants, by Daniel G. 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Brinton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A Guide-Book of Florida and the South for Tourists, Invalids and Emigrants - -Author: Daniel G. Brinton - -Release Date: September 23, 2016 [EBook #53130] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUIDE-BOOK OF FLORIDA *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif, Broward County Library and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This book was produced from scanned images of public -domain material from the Google Books project.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="341" height="500" alt="cover" title="" /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td><p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents</a><br /> -Some typographical errors have been corrected; -<a href="#transcrib">a list follows the text</a>.</p> -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2"></a>{2}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/map-st-john-river_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/map-st-john-river_sml.jpg" alt="[Image of the Map -of St John River unavailable.]"/></a><br /><span class="nonvis"> -[<a href="images/map-st-john-river_lg.jpg">Larger image</a> (440kb)] -[<a href="images/map-st-john-river.jpg">Largest image</a> (1mb)]</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3"></a>{3}</span></p> - -<h1> -<small><small>A</small></small><br /> - -G U I D E - B O O K<br /> - -<small><small>OF</small></small><br /> - -<span class="courier">FLORIDA AND THE SOUTH,</span><br /> - -<small><small>FOR</small></small><br /> - -<small>TOURISTS, INVALIDS AND EMIGRANTS,</small><br /> - -<small><small>WITH A MAP OF THE ST. JOHN RIVER,</small></small></h1> - -<p class="c"> - -<span class="smcap">By</span> DANIEL G. BRINTON, A. M., M. D.,<br /> -———<br /> -PHILADELPHIA:<br /> -<small>GEORGE MACLEAN, 719 SANSOM STREET.</small><br /> -<br /> -JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA:<br /> - -<small>COLUMBUS DREW.</small><br /> -1869.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4"></a>{4}</span> <br /> </p> - -<hr /> -<p class="c"> -Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by<br /> -DANIEL G. BRINTON, A. M., M. D.,<br /> -In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, in<br /> -and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.<br /> -</p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p class="c"> -<small>FROM THE PRESS OF WYLIE & GRIEST,<br /> -Inquirer Printing House and Book Bindery, Lancaster, Penn’a.</small><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5"></a>{5}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p>This unpretending little book is designed to give the visitor to Florida -such information as will make his trip more useful and more pleasant. In -writing it I have had in mind the excellent European Guide-Books of Karl -Bædeker, the best, to my mind, ever published. Though I have not -followed his plan very closely, I have done so to the extent the -character of our country seems to allow.</p> - -<p>I have borrowed from him the use of the asterisk (*) to denote that the -object so designated is especially noteworthy, or that the hotel thus -distinguished is known to me to be well-kept, either from my own -observation or that of friends.</p> - -<p>Most of the localities are described from my own notes taken during an -extended tour through the peninsula, but for much respecting railroad -fare, accommodations, and charges, I am indebted to a large number of -tourists and correspondents who have related to me their experience. To -all these I express my warmest thanks for their assistance.</p> - -<p>As of course such matters are constantly changing, and as I shall be -most desirous to correct any errors, and bring the work fully up to the -times in future editions, I shall esteem it a particular favor if those -who use this book will forward me any notes or observation which will -aid me in improving it. Such communications may be addressed “care of -the Penn Publishing Co., 710 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Penna.”</p> - -<p>The map of the St. John River is based on that drawn by my friend, Mr. -H. Lindenkohl, U. S. Coast Survey.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Philadelphia</span>, <i>August, 1869</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6"></a>{6}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td> </td><td><br /><small><span class="smcap">Page.</span></small></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#PREFACE">Preface.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#PREFACE">iii</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#CONTENTS">iv</a></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th valign="top"><a href="#PRELIMINARY_HINTS">Preliminary Hints.</a></th></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#THE_SEASON_FOR_SOUTHERN_TRAVEL">The Season for Southern Travel.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_9"></a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#PREPARATIONS_FOR_THE_JOURNEY">Preparations for The Journey.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_10">10</a></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th valign="top"><a href="#PART_I">PART I.—SOUTHERN ROUTES.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-1_STEAMSHIP_LINES">1. Steamship Lines.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_13">13</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-2_WASHINGTON_TO_RICHMOND">2. Washington to Richmond.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_14">14</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-3_RICHMOND_TO_CHARLESTON">3. Richmond to Charleston.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_18">18</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-4_AIKEN_S_C_AND_THE_SOUTHERN_HIGHLANDS">4. Aiken, S. C., and The Southern Highlands.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_22">22</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-5_FROM_CHARLESTON_TO_SAVANNAH">5. Charleston to Savannah.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_26">26</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-6_SAVANNAH_TO_JACKSONVILLE">6. Savannah to Jacksonville.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_29">29</a></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th valign="top"><a href="#PART_II">PART II.—FLORIDA</a></th></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-1_HISTORICAL">1. Historical.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_32">32</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-2_BOOKS_AND_MAPS">2. Books and Maps.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_35"></a>35</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-3_PHYSICAL_GEOGRAPHY_OF_FLORIDA">3. Physical Geography Of Florida.</a> -1. Geographical Formation.<br /> -2. Soil and Crops. 3. Climate and Health.<br /> -4. Vegetable and Animal Life</td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_37"></a>37</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-4_THE_ST_JOHN_RIVER_ST_AUGUSTINE_AND_INDIAN_RIVER">4. The St. John River, St. Augustine, and Indian River.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_52">52</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-5_JACKSONVILLE_TO_TALLAHASSEE_QUINCY_AND_ST_MARKS">5. Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Quincy and St. Marks.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_81">81</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-6_THE_OKLAWAHA_RIVER_AND_THE_SILVER_SPRING">6. The Oklawaha River and The Silver Spring.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_88"></a>88</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-7_FROM_FERNANDINA_TO_CEDAR_KEYS">7. Fernandina to Cedar Keys.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_93">93</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-8_KEY_WEST_THE_FLORIDA_KEYS_AND_THE_GULF_COAST">8. Key West—the Florida Keys and The Gulf Coast.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_97"></a>97</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#chap-9_THE_WESTERN_COAST">9. The Western Coast. - -(Tampa, Apalachicola, Pensacola, Mobile)</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_106"></a>106</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><th valign="top"><a href="#PART_III">PART III.—CHAPTERS TO INVALIDS.</a></th></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#CHAP_1_WHEN_IS_A_CHANGE_OF_CLIMATE_ADVISABLE">I. When Is A Change Of Climate Advisable?</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#CHAP_II_WHAT_CLIMATE_SHALL_BE_CHOSEN">II. hat Climate Shall Be Chosen?</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_120"></a>120</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#CHAP_III_WHERE_IS_THE_BEST_SOUTHERN_WINTER_CLIMATE">III where Is The Best Southern Winter Climate?</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#CHAP_IV_SOME_HINTS_TO_HEALTH_SEEKERS">IV. Some Hints to Health Seekers.</a></td><td valign="bottom" class="rt"><a href="#page_130"></a>130</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8"></a>{8}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9"></a>{9}</span> </p> - -<h1>G U I D E - B O O K<br /> <small>OF</small><br /> FLORIDA AND THE SOUTH.</h1> - -<h3><a name="PRELIMINARY_HINTS" id="PRELIMINARY_HINTS"></a>PRELIMINARY HINTS.</h3> - -<h3><a name="THE_SEASON_FOR_SOUTHERN_TRAVEL" id="THE_SEASON_FOR_SOUTHERN_TRAVEL"></a>THE SEASON FOR SOUTHERN TRAVEL.</h3> - -<p>The season for Southern travel commences in October and ends in May. -After the latter month the periodical rains commence in Florida, and the -mid-day heat is relaxing and oppressive. About mid-summer the swamp -miasm begins to pervade the low grounds, and spreads around them an -invisible poisonous exhalation, into which the traveler ventures at his -peril. This increases in violence until September, when it loses its -power with the returning cold. When one or two sharp frosts have been -felt in New York or Philadelphia, the danger is chiefly past. -Nevertheless, for mere considerations of health, November is soon enough -to reach the Gulf States. Those who start earlier will do well to linger -in some of the many attractive spots on their way through the more -Northern States. A congestive chill is a serious matter, and even the -lightest attack of fever and ague can destroy the pleasure and annul the -benefit of a winter’s tour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10"></a>{10}</span></p> - -<h3><a name="PREPARATIONS_FOR_THE_JOURNEY" id="PREPARATIONS_FOR_THE_JOURNEY"></a>PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY.</h3> - -<p>The comfort of a journey is vastly enhanced by a few simple precautions -before starting. And if I seem too minute here, it is because I am -writing for many to whom the little miseries of traveling are real -afflictions.</p> - -<p>Before you leave home have your teeth thoroughly set in order by a -skilful dentist. If there has been a philosopher who could tranquilly -bear a jumping toothache, his name is not on record.</p> - -<p>A <i>necessaire</i> containing soap, brushes, and all the etceteras of the -toilet is indispensable. It is prudent in many parts of the South to -carry your own towels.</p> - -<p>Spectacles of plain glass, violet, light green, or light grey, are often -a comfort in the sun and in the cars, and if the eyes are weak should -not be omitted.</p> - -<p>A strong, silk musquito net, with fine meshes, will be highly prized in -the autumn nights. A teaspoonful of carbolic acid or camphor, sprinkled -in the room, or an ointment of cold cream scented with turpentine, will -be found very disagreeable to these insects, and often equally so to the -traveler.</p> - -<p>One or two air cushions take up but little room, and should be provided -for every invalid.</p> - -<p>Shoes are preferable for ordinary journeys. In their make, let reason -and not fashion rule. They should be double soled, have low and broad -heels, lace firmly around the ankle, and fit loosely over the toes. -Rubber boots or overshoes should be abolished, especially from the -invalid’s outfit. Rubber overcoats are equally objectionable. They are -all unwholesome contrivances. A pair of easy slippers must always be -remembered.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11"></a>{11}</span></p> - -<p>For ladies a hood, for gentlemen a felt hat, are the proper head-dresses -on the route.</p> - -<p>In all parts of the South woolen clothing is required in winter, and -flannel under-clothing should be worn by every one who goes there in -pursuit of health. Next to flannel, cotton is to be recommended. It is -more a non-conductor of heat than linen, and thus better protects the -body from changes of temperature.</p> - -<p>Every person in feeble health—and those who are robust will not find -the suggestion amiss—should have with them a few cases of devilled ham, -sardines, potted meats, German sausage, or other savory and portable -preparations, which, with the assistance of a few crackers or a piece of -bread, will make a good lunch. A flask of wine or something similar, -helps out such an impromptu meal. Frequently it is much better than to -gulp down a badly cooked dinner in the time allowed by the trains.</p> - -<p>A strong umbrella, and a stout pocket knife, are indispensable. Guns, -ammunition, rods, and fishing tackle should always be provided before -starting. They should be well protected from dampness, especially the -guns and powder. Florida is the paradise of the sportsman, and those who -are able should not omit to have a “camp hunt” while there. Tents, camp -equipage, and the greater part of the supplies should be purchased in -the North, as they are dearer and not often the best in the Southern -cities.</p> - -<p>On arriving at a hotel, first see that your baggage is safe; then that -your room is well aired, and the sheets on the bed dry.</p> - -<p>It is always well in traveling to have baggage enough<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12"></a>{12}</span>—always a bother -to have too much. A good sized leather traveling-bag will do for the -single man; but where a lady is attached, a medium sized leather trunk, -which can be expressed or “checked through,” and a light traveling-bag, -to be taken into the cars and staterooms, and carried in the hand, are -the requisites.</p> - -<p>Money can be transmitted so readily by certified check or draft, that a -tourist need not carry much with him. He should, however, have a reserve -fund about him, so as to be prepared for one of those disagreeable -emergencies which nearly every veteran traveler has at some time -experienced.</p> - -<p>Every one who visits a strange land should strive to interest himself in -its condition, resources, history and peculiarities. The invalid, beyond -all others, should cultivate an interest in his surroundings. Nothing so -well sustains a failing body as an active mind. For that purpose, local -histories, maps, etc., should always be purchased. I have indicated, -under the different cities, what works there are of this kind in the -market, and, in the introductory remarks on Florida, have mentioned -several of a more general character, which should be purchased and read -before going there. (For further hints see the last chapter of this -work.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13"></a>{13}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a>PART I.</h2> - -<h3><a name="SOUTHERN_ROUTES" id="SOUTHERN_ROUTES"></a>SOUTHERN ROUTES.</h3> - -<h4><a name="chap-1_STEAMSHIP_LINES" id="chap-1_STEAMSHIP_LINES"></a>1. STEAMSHIP LINES.</h4> - -<p>In visiting the South Atlantic States the tourist from the North has a -choice of a number of routes.</p> - -<p>Steamers leave New York for Charleston, Savannah, Fernandina, and Key -West, advertisements of which, giving days of sailing can be seen in the -principal daily papers. Philadelphia has regular steamship lines to -Charleston, Savannah, and Key West. From Charleston and Savannah boats -run every other day to Fernandina, Jacksonville, and Palatka on the St. -John river. The whole or a portion of a journey to Florida can be -accomplished by water, and the steamships are decidedly preferable to -the cars for those who do not suffer much from sea sickness.</p> - -<p>The most direct route by railroad is the “Atlantic Coast Line,” by way -of Washington, Acquia Creek, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wilmington, -and Charleston. From Philadelphia to Wilmington the time is 28 hours, -fare $21.90; to Charleston 40 hours, fare $24.00; to Savannah, fare -$33.00; to Jacksonville, fare $38.65. Through tickets and full -information can be obtained in New York at 193 Broadway; Philadelphia -828 Chestnut Street.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14"></a>{14}</span></p> - -<p>It is proposed to establish a direct line of steamers from New York to -Jacksonville. It is to be hoped that this will be done promptly, as it -will greatly increase trade and travel.</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-2_WASHINGTON_TO_RICHMOND" id="chap-2_WASHINGTON_TO_RICHMOND"></a>2. WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND.</h4> - -<p>Distance, 130 miles; time 7.30 hours.</p> - -<p>Until the tourist leaves Washington, he is on the beaten track of -travel, and needs no hints for his guidance; or, if he does, can find -them in abundance. Turning his face southward, he may leave our capital -either in the cars from the Baltimore depot to Alexandria and Acquia -Creek, or, what is to be recommended as the more pleasant alternative, -he may go by steamboat to this station, a distance of 55 miles. The -banks of the Potomac present an attractive diversity of highland and -meadow. A glimpse is caught of Mt. Vernon, and those who desire it can -stop and visit those scenes once so dear to him whose memory is dear to -us all. The reminiscences, however, which one acquires by a visit to -Mount Vernon are rarely satisfactory.</p> - -<p>From Acquia Creek landing the railroad passes through a country still -betraying the sears and scars of conflict, though, happily, it is -recovering in some measure from those sad experiences. <i>Fredericksburg</i> -(15 miles; hotel, the Planter’s House, poor,) may have enough of -interest to induce some one to “lay over” a train. It is an unattractive -spot, except for its historical associations. These are so fresh in the -memory of most that it is unnecessary to mention them.</p> - -<p>Beyond Fredericksburg a number of stations are passed—none of any size. -The distance to Richmond is 60 miles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15"></a>{15}</span></p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Richmond.</span></h4> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Ballard House ($4.00 per day); Spottswood, Exchange (each $2 -per day); Ford’s Hotel on Capitol Square ($2.50 per day); St. Charles -($2.00.)</p> - -<p><i>Boarding Houses.</i>—Arlington House, corner Main and 6th street; -Valentine House, on Capitol Square; Richmond House, corner Governor and -Ross streets; Mrs. Bidgood’s, 61 East Main street; Mrs. Brander, 107 E. -Franklin street, (all about $12.00 per week).</p> - -<p><i>Telegraph Offices</i> in Spottswood and Exchange Hotels.</p> - -<p><i>Reading Rooms</i> at the Y.M.C.A. The Virginia State Library was pillaged -in 1865, and the Virginia Historical Library burned.</p> - -<p><i>Theatre.</i>—The Richmond Theatre has a respectable stock company, and is -visited by most of the stars of the stage.</p> - -<p><i>Booksellers.</i>—West & Johnson, 1006 Main St., (Brinton’s <i>Guide-Book</i>.)</p> - -<p><i>Churches</i> of all denominations.</p> - -<hr class="hrten" /> - -<p>Richmond derives it name from the ancient burgh of the same name on the -Thames. The word is supposed to be a corruption of <i>rotre mont</i>, and -applies very well to the modern namesake. Like Rome, it is seated upon -seven hills, and if it has never commanded the world, it will be forever -famous as the seat of the government of the whilom Confederacy. It is -situated at the Great Falls of the James river, on the Richmond and -Shoccoe hills, between which flows the Shoccoe creek.</p> - -<p>In the early maps of the colony, the site of the present city is marked -as “Byrd’s Warehouse,” an ancient trading<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16"></a>{16}</span> post, we can imagine, said to -have stood where the Exchange hotel is now built. In 1742 the city was -established, and has ever since been the chief center of Virginian life.</p> - -<p>The capitol is a showy edifice, on Shoccoe hill. The plan was taken from -the Maison Quarre, of Nismes, with some modifications, among others the -Doric pillars. It stands in the midst of a square of eight acres. In -this building the Confederate Congress held its sessions. It contains, -among other objects, a well cut statue of Washington, dating from the -last century, “<i>fait par Houdin, citoyen Francais</i>,” as we learn from -the inscription, and a bust of Lafayette. Two relics of the old colonial -times are exhibited—the one a carved chair which once belonged to the -house of Burgesses, of Norfolk—the other a huge stove, of singular -shape, bearing the colonial arms of Virginia in relief. This latter is -the product of a certain Buzaglo. It is eight or ten feet high, and -slopes from base to summit. A letter of the inventor is extant, -addressed to Lord Botetourt, in which he speaks of it as “excelled -anything ever seen of the kind, and a masterpiece not to be excelled in -all Europe.”</p> - -<p>In the square around the capitol is an* equestrian statue of Gen. George -Washington, constructed by Crawford, and erected February 22, 1858. Its -total height is sixty feet. Around its base are six pedestals, upon -which are figures of Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, Marshall, Gov. -Nelson, George Mason and Andrew Lewis, the latter an Indian fighter, -once of celebrity in Western Virginia.</p> - -<p>To the left of this is a small statue of Henry Clay,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17"></a>{17}</span> erected by the -ladies of Virginia, made by Hart, and inaugurated in 1860.</p> - -<p>On the eastern side of the square is the residence of the Governor, and -on another side the City Hall, a handsome edifice with Doric columns.</p> - -<p>St. John’s Church, on Richmond Hill, is the oldest church edifice in the -city. The tower and belfry are, however, a modern addition. From its -church-yard, dotted with ancient tombs, one of the most charming views -of the city can be obtained. In this church, in 1775, the young and -brilliant orator, Patrick Henry, delivered his famous oration before the -Virginia Convention, which concludes with the famous words, “Give me -liberty, or give me death.”</p> - -<p>The Tredegar Iron Works, Libby Prison, at the corner of Thirty-fifth and -Main streets, Belle Isle, and Castle Thunder, will be visited by most -tourists as objects of interest. *Hollywood cemetery, near the city is a -quiet and beautiful spot, well deserving a visit.</p> - -<p>In the fire of April 2, 1865, about one thousand buildings were -destroyed, but the ravages of that disastrous epoch are now nearly -concealed by new and handsome structures.</p> - -<p>The Falls of the James are properly rapids, the bed of the river making -a descent of only eighty feet in two miles. They furnish a valuable -water-power.</p> - -<p>*Hollywood Cemetery, one mile from the city, is a spot of great natural -beauty. Here lie the remains of Presidents Monroe and Tyler, and other -distinguished men, as well as of many thousand Confederate soldiers. A -rough granite monument has recently been erected in memory of the -latter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18"></a>{18}</span></p> - -<p>Butler’s Dutch Gap and Drewy’s Bluff, and the famous battle fields near -the city, will be visited with interest by many.</p> - -<p>Those who would visit the mineral springs of Virginia, will find ample -information in Dr. Moorhead’s volume on them, or in that by Mr. Burke. -Both can be obtained of West & Johnson, booksellers, Main street.</p> - -<p>The Natural Bridge, one of the most remarkable curiosities in the State, -is best approached by way of Lynchburg, from which place it is distant -35 miles, by canal.</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-3_RICHMOND_TO_CHARLESTON" id="chap-3_RICHMOND_TO_CHARLESTON"></a>3. RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.</h4> - -<p>From Richmond to Petersburg is 32 miles on the Richmond and Petersburg -railway. The earthworks and fortifications around the latter town, -memorials of our recent conflict, are well worth a visit from those who -have not already seen too many such curiosities to care for more.</p> - -<p>64 miles beyond Petersburg the train reaches Weldon, on the Roanoke -river, a few miles within the boundary of North Carolina (<i>Gouch’s -Hotel</i>.)</p> - -<p>From Weldon to Goldsboro, the next stopping place of importance, is 78 -miles, 7.30 hours. It is a place of about 5000 inhabitants, half white -and half colored.</p> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Griswold Hotel, Gregory’s Hotel, both $3 per day.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding House</i> by Mrs Tompkins, $2 per day.</p> - -<p>The road here intersects the North Carolina, and Atlantic and North -Carolina railways, the latter running to Morehead city and Beaufort, on -the coast, (95 miles) and the former to Raleigh, the capitol of the -State, (48<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19"></a>{19}</span> miles) and interior towns. From Goldsboro to Wilmington is -84 miles.</p> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Purcell House, $4 per day; Fulton House, $3 per day.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding Houses.</i>—McRea House, Brock’s Exchange, about $2 per day, -$40.00 per month.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—<i>Post</i>, republican, <i>Journal</i>, democratic.</p> - -<p><i>Steamboat Line</i> to Fayetteville, N. C., (130 miles, fare $5.00); to -Smithville, at the mouth of Cape Fear, (30 miles, fare $1.50.)</p> - -<p>Wilmington (16,000 inhabitants) is on Cape Fear river, 25 miles from the -sea. It is well built. The staples are turpentine and resinous products. -The vicinity is flat and sandy. At this point the railroad changes from -the New York guage, 5 feet, to the Charleston guage, 4 feet 8 inches.</p> - -<p>The journey from Richmond to Charleston can also be made by way of -Greensboro, Charlotte and Columbia. This route leads through the -interior of the country, and, though longer, offers a more diversified -scene to the eye.</p> - -<p>To Greensboro, on the Richmond & Danville and Piedmont Railways, is 189 -miles; thence on the North Carolina Railway to Charlotte, 93 miles; then -on the Charlotte & S. Carolina railway to Columbia, S. C., 107 miles -(Nickerson’s hotel, $3.00 per day, newly fitted up); thence by the -Columbia Branch of the South Carolina Railway to Charleston, 130 miles.</p> - -<p>Salisbury, N. C., 150 miles south of Greensboro, is the most convenient -point to enter the celebrated mountain regions of North Carolina. A -railway runs thence to Morgantown, in the midst of the sublime scenery -of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20"></a>{20}</span> Black mountains, and in close proximity to the beautiful falls -of the Catawba. Charlotte (<i>hotel</i>, the Mansion House), is in the center -of the gold region of North Carolina, and the site of a United States -Branch Mint. It is also the scene of the battle of Guilford Court House, -during the revolutionary war.</p> - -<p>The capitol, in Columbia, is considered a very handsome building.</p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Charleston.</span></h4> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—*Charleston Hotel, Mills House (newly furnished), both on -Meeting Street. Charges, $4.00 per day. *Pavilion Hotel. Mr. -Butterfield, proprietor, $3.00 per day, also on Meeting Street. -Planter’s Hotel, Church Street, Victoria House, King Street, both $2.50 -per day.</p> - -<p><i>Telegraph Office</i>, on Broad near Church Street; branch office in -Charleston Hotel.</p> - -<p><i>Post Office</i>, on Hazel Street, near Meeting.</p> - -<p><i>Churches.</i>—Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Huguenot, Methodist, &c.</p> - -<p><i>Theatre</i>, at the corner of King and Market Streets.</p> - -<p><i>Bathing Houses.</i>—One of salt water near the battery; two, with water -of the artesian well, one at the well, the other in the Charleston -Hotel.</p> - -<p><i>Livery Stable</i>, 21 Pinckney Street, connected with the Charleston -Hotel.</p> - -<p><i>Street Cars</i> run on several of the streets; fare, 10 cts., 15 tickets -for $1.00. All the hotels have omnibuses waiting at the depots.</p> - -<p><i>Physician.</i>—Dr. Geo. Caulier, 158 Meeting Street.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—The Daily <i>Courier</i>, the Daily <i>News</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Depots.</i>—The depot of the Northeastern R. R. from Wilmington to the -north, is at the corner of Chapel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21"></a>{21}</span> and Washington Sts.; that of the road -to Savannah is at the foot of Mill street; and that of the S. C. R. R. -to Aikin, Augusta, Atlanta, etc., is in Line street, between King and -Meeting streets.</p> - -<p><i>Bookseller.</i>—John Russell, 288 King street. (Brinton’s <i>Guide-Book</i>.)</p> - -<p><i>Libraries.</i>—Charleston library, 30,000 vols.; Apprentices’ library, -12,000 vols.</p> - -<hr class="hrten" /> - -<p>Charleston claims 40,000 inhabitants, the whites and blacks being about -equal in number. It is curious that since the war the mortality of the -latter has been twice as great as of the whites.</p> - -<p>The city is seven miles from the ocean at the junction of the Ashley and -Cooper rivers, and has an excellent harbor, surrounded by works of -defence. On the sea line is Fort Moultrie; Castle Pinkney stands at the -entrance to the city; south of the latter is Fort Ripley, built of -palmetto logs; while in the midst of the harbor stands the famous Fort -Sumter.</p> - -<p>The ravages caused by the terrible events of the late war have yet been -only very partially repaired in Charleston. The greater part of the -burnt district is deserted and waste.</p> - -<p>The history of Charleston, previous to that event, is not of conspicuous -interest. The city was first commenced by English settlers, in 1672, and -for a long time had a struggling existence. Many of its early -inhabitants were Huguenots, who fled thither to escape the persecutions -which followed the revocation of the edict of Nantes. A church is still -maintained in which their ancient worship is celebrated.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22"></a>{22}</span></p> - -<p>Of public buildings, the ancient church of St. Michael’s, built about -1750, has some claim to architectural beauty.</p> - -<p>The fashionable quarter of the city is the Battery. *Magnolia cemetery, -on the Cooper river, is well worth a visit. It is one of the most -beautiful in the South. It was laid out in 1850, and contains some -handsome monuments.</p> - -<p>The Custom House is a fine building, of white marble.</p> - -<p>Those who wish to visit Fort Sumter, and review the scenes of 1861, can -be accommodated by a small sailing vessel, which leaves the wharf every -morning at 10.30 o’clock.</p> - -<p>In the church-yard of St. Philip’s is the tomb of John C. Calhoun. A -slab, bearing the single word “Calhoun,” marks the spot.</p> - -<p>The museum of the Medical College is considered one of the finest in the -United States.</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-4_AIKEN_S_C_AND_THE_SOUTHERN_HIGHLANDS" id="chap-4_AIKEN_S_C_AND_THE_SOUTHERN_HIGHLANDS"></a>4. AIKEN, S. C., AND THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS.</h4> - -<p>Within the past ten years the advantages for invalids of a residence in -the highlands of the Carolinas, Georgia and Tennessee have been -repeatedly urged on the public. The climate in these localities is dry -and mild, exceedingly well adapted, therefore, for such cases as find -the severe cold of Minnesota irritating, and the moist warmth of Florida -enervating. Aiken, S. C., Atlanta, Ga., Lookout Mountain, near -Chattanooga, East Tennessee, and other localities offer good -accommodations, and have almost equal advantages in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23"></a>{23}</span> point of climate. -Like other resorts, they do not agree with all invalids, but they are -suitable for a large class.</p> - -<p>One of the best known and most eligible is</p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Atlanta.</span></h4> - -<p>From Aiken to Augusta, 16 miles, $1.00. From Augusta to Atlanta by the -Georgia railway, 171 miles, $8.50; 11 hours.</p> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—The National, on Peach Tree Street, $4.00 per day; the United -States and the American, opposite the depot, $3.00 per day.</p> - -<p><i>Telegraph Office</i> in Kimball’s Opera House. Post Office, corner of -Alabama and Broad streets.</p> - -<p><i>Bathing House</i> on Alabama street, near U. S. Hotel.</p> - -<p><i>Circulating Library</i> at the Young Men’s Library Association on Broad -street.</p> - -<hr class="hrten" /> - -<p>Atlanta has about 20,000 inhabitants. The water is pure, the air -bracing, and the climate resembles that of Northern Italy. The Walton -Springs are in the city, furnishing a strongly chalybeate water, much -used, and with great success, as a tonic. The fall and spring months are -peculiarly delightful, and the vicinity offers many pleasant excursions.</p> - -<p>Communication by rail either to Chattanooga and East Tennessee, or south -to Macon, etc., is convenient.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26"></a>{26}</span></p> - -<h4><a name="chap-5_FROM_CHARLESTON_TO_SAVANNAH" id="chap-5_FROM_CHARLESTON_TO_SAVANNAH"></a>5.—FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH.</h4> - -<p>The tourist has the choice of the railway via Coosawhatchie, or via -Augusta, Georgia, or the steamers. The first mentioned road was -destroyed during the war, and is not yet in running order.</p> - -<p>Steamboats also leave Charleston every Thursday and Saturday, direct for -Fernandina, Jacksonville and Palatka, and should be chosen by those who -do not suffer from seasickness. They are roomy, and the table well -supplied.</p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Savannah.</span></h4> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—*Screven House, Pulaski House, both $4.00 a day. *Marshall -House, $3.00 per day, $15.00 per week, an excellent table. *Pavilion -Hotel, Mr. Noe. Proprietor; a quiet, pleasant house for invalids, $3.00 -per day.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding Houses.</i>—Mrs. McAlpin, South Broad street; Mrs. Kollock, -South Broad street; Mrs. Savage, Barnard Street; all $3.00 per day, -$14.00 per week.</p> - -<p><i>Post Office and Telegraph Office</i> on Bay street, near the Pulaski -House.</p> - -<p><i>Street Cars</i> start from the post office to various parts of the city. -Fare, 10 cents; 14 tickets for $1.00. Omnibuses meet the various trains, -and steamboats will deliver passengers anywhere in the city for 75 cents -each.</p> - -<p><i>Livery Stables</i> are connected with all the hotels.</p> - -<p><i>Restaurants.</i>—The best is the Restaurant Francais, in Whitaker Street, -between Bay and Bryan Streets.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—Daily <i>Savannah News</i>, Daily <i>Morning News</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27"></a>{27}</span></p> - -<p><i>Bookstores.</i>—J. Schreiner & Co., near the Pulaski House. (Brinton’s -<i>Guide-Book</i>, <i>Historical Record of Savannah</i>.)</p> - -<p><i>Depots.</i>—The Central Railroad depot is in the southwestern part of the -city, corner of Liberty and E. Broad Streets. The railroad from -Charleston has its terminus here. The Atlantic and Gulf Railroad is in -the south-eastern part of the city, corner of Liberty and E. Broad -Streets.</p> - -<hr class="hrten" /> - -<p>Savannah is situated in Chatham county, Ga., on a bluff, about forty -feet high, seven miles above the mouth of the river of the same name, on -its right bank. Its present population is estimated at 40,000.</p> - -<p>The city was founded by Gov. James Oglethorpe, in 1733. It played a -conspicuous part during the Revolution. With characteristic loyalty to -the cause of freedom the Council of Safety passed a resolution in 1776 -to burn the town rather than have it fall into the hands of the British. -Nevertheless, two years afterwards the royal troops obtained possession -of it by a strategic movement. In the autumn of 1779 the American forces -under General Lincoln, and the distinguished Polish patriot, Count -Casimir Pulaski, with their French allies under Count d’Estaing, made a -desperate but fruitless attempt to regain it by assault. Both the -foreign noblemen were wounded in a night assault on the works. Count -Pulaski mortally. The spot where he fell is where the Central Railroad -depot now stands.</p> - -<p>The chief objects of interest are the monuments. The *finest is to the -memory of Pulaski. It is in Chipewa square, and is a handsome shaft of -marble, surmounted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28"></a>{28}</span> by a statue of Liberty, and supported on a base of -granite. Its height is 55 feet; its date of erection 1853.</p> - -<p>An older and plainer monument, some fifty feet high, without -inscription, stands in Johnson square. It was erected in 1829, and is -known as the Greene and Pulaski monument.</p> - -<p>The city is beautifully laid out, diversified with numerous small -squares, with wide and shady streets. Broad Street and Bay Street have -each four rows of those popular southern shade trees known as the Pride -of India, or China trees (<i>Melia Azedarach</i>).</p> - -<p>A praiseworthy energy has supplied the city with excellent water from -public water works; and, in Forsyth Park, at the head of Bull Street, is -a fountain of quite elaborate workmanship.</p> - -<p>Some of the public buildings are well worth visiting. The Georgia -Historical Society has an excellent edifice, on Bryan Street, with a -library of 7,500 volumes, among which are said to be a number of -valuable manuscripts.</p> - -<p>The *Museum, on the northeast corner of Bull and Taylor streets, -contains a number of local curiosities.</p> - -<p>The Custom House is a handsome fire-proof structure of Quincy granite.</p> - -<p>The Exchange building, now used as the Mayor’s office, etc., offers, -from its top, the best view of the city.</p> - -<p><i>Excursions.</i>—Several days can be passed extremely pleasantly in short -excursions from the city. One of the most interesting of these will be -to</p> - -<p>*<i>Bonaventure Cemetery.</i>—This is situated 3 miles from the city, on the -Warsaw river. A stately grove of live oaks, draped in the sombre weeds -by the Spanish moss,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29"></a>{29}</span> cast an appropriate air of pensiveness around this -resting place of past generations. A cab holding four persons to this -locality costs $8.00.</p> - -<p><i>Thunderbolt</i>, a small town, (two hotels), 4½ miles south-east of the -city, on a creek of the same name, is worth visiting, chiefly for the -beautiful drive which leads to it. Cab fare for the trip, $8.00.</p> - -<p><i>White Bluff</i>, on the Vernon river, 10 miles from the city has two -unpretending hotels, and is a favorite resort of the citizens on account -of the excellent shell road which connects it with the city. Cab fare -for the trip, $10.00.</p> - -<p><i>Bethesda Orphan House</i>, also 10 miles distant, is erected on the site -chosen by the Rev. Mr. Whitfield, very early in the history of the -colony. Selina, the pious Countess of Huntington, took a deep interest -in its welfare as long as she lived, and it is pleasant to think that -now it is established on a permanent footing.</p> - -<p><i>Jasper Spring</i>, 2 miles from the city, is pointed out as the spot where -the bold Sergeant Jasper, with one assistant, during the revolutionary -war, surprised and captured eight Britishers, and forced them to release -a prisoner. The thoughtless guard had stacked arms and proceeded to the -spring to drink, when the shrewd Sergeant who, anticipating this very -move, was hidden in the bushes near by, rushed forward, seized the -muskets, and brought the enemy to instant terms.</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-6_SAVANNAH_TO_JACKSONVILLE" id="chap-6_SAVANNAH_TO_JACKSONVILLE"></a>6. SAVANNAH TO JACKSONVILLE.</h4> - -<p>The tourist has the choice of three routes for this part of his journey. -He can take a sea steamer, and passing out the Savannah river, see no -more land until the low shores at the mouth of the St. John River come<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30"></a>{30}</span> -in sight. Or he can choose one of several small steamboats which ply in -the narrow channels between the sea-islands and the main, touching at -Brunswick, Darien, St. Catharine, Fernandina, etc., (fare $10.00). Or -lastly he has the option of the railroad, which will carry him through -to Jacksonville in twelve hours and a half, in a first class sleeping -car.</p> - -<p>The channel along the coast lies through extensive salt marshes, -intersected by numerous brackish creeks and lagoons. The boats are -small, or they could not thread the mazes of this net-work of narrow -water-courses. The sea-islands, famous all over the world for their -long-staple cotton, have a sandy, thin soil, rising in hillocks and -covered with a growth of live-oak, water-oak, bay, gum and pine. Between -the islands and the main land the grassy marshes extend for several -miles. In the distance the western horizon is hedged by a low wall of -short-leaved pine. The sea islands are moderately healthy, but the main -land is wet, flat and sterile, and its few inhabitants are exposed to -the most malignant forms of malarial fever and pneumonia.</p> - -<p>On St. Catharine island is the plantation formerly owned by Mr. Pierce -Butler, and the scene of Mrs. Francis Kemble Butler’s well-known work, -“Life on a Georgia Plantation.” On Cumberland island, the most southern -of the sea-islands belonging to Georgia, is the Dungerness estate, 6000 -acres in extent, once owned by Gen. Nat. Greene, of Revolutionary fame, -and recently bought by Senator Sprague, of Rhode Island, for $10 per -acre. With proper cultivation it would yield magnificent crops of -sea-island cotton.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31"></a>{31}</span></p> - -<p><i>Fernandina</i> on Amelia Island, the terminus of the Fernandina and Cedar -Keys Railroad, is a town of growing importance (pop. about 2,000; -hotels, Virginia House, containing the telegraph office; the Whitfield -House, both $3.00 per day; newspaper, the <i>Island City Weekly</i>.) This is -one of the old Spanish settlements, and the traces of the indigo fields -are still visible over a great part of the island. Fernandina-Oldtown is -about a mile north of the present site.</p> - -<p>The sub-tropical vegetation is quite marked on the island. Magnificent -oleanders, large live oaks, and dense growths of myrtle and palmettos -conceal the rather unpromising soil. The olive has been cultivated with -success, and there is no reason why a large supply of the best table oil -should not be produced here.</p> - -<p>A low shell mound covers the beach at Fernandina, and in the interior of -the island are several large Indian burial mounds. Several earthworks -thrown up during the late war overlook the town and harbor. Fernandina -harbor is one of the best in the South Atlantic Coast, landlocked and -safe. Its depth is 6½ fathoms, and the water on the bar at low tide is -14 feet. The tide rises from 6 to 7 feet. In spite of what seems its -more convenient situation, Fernandina does not seem destined to be a -rival of Jacksonville.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32"></a>{32}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II.<br /><br /> -FLORIDA.</h2> - -<h4><a name="chap-1_HISTORICAL" id="chap-1_HISTORICAL"></a>1. HISTORICAL.</h4> - -<p>Long before Columbus saw</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“the dashing,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Silver-flashing,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Surges of San Salvador,”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">a rumor was abroad among the natives of the Bahamas, of Cuba, and even -of Yucatan and Honduras, that in a land to the north was a fountain of -water, whose crystal waves restored health to the sick, and youth to the -aged. Many of the credulous islanders, forsaking their homes, ventured -in their frail canoes on the currents of the Gulf, and never returning, -were supposed to be detained by the delights of that land of perennial -youth.</p> - -<p>This ancient fame still clings to the peninsula. The tide of wanderers -in search of the healing and rejuvenating waters still sets thitherward, -and, with better fate than of yore, many an one now returns to his own, -restored to vigor and life. Intelligence now endorses what superstition -long believed.</p> - -<p>The country received its pretty and appropriate name, Terra florida, the -Flowery Land, from Juan Ponce de Leon, who also has the credit of being -its discoverer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33"></a>{33}</span> He first saw its shores on Easter Sunday, March 27, -1513—not 1512, as all the text books have it, as on that year Easter -Sunday came on April 20th.</p> - -<p>At that time it was inhabited by a number of wild tribes, included in -two families, the Timucuas, who dwelt on the lower St. John, and the -Chahta-Muskokis, who possessed the rest of the country. In later times, -the latter were displaced by others of the same stock known as Seminoles -(<i>isti semoli</i>, wild men, or strangers). A remnant of these still exist, -several hundred in number, living on and around Lake Okee-chobee, in the -same state of incorrigible savagery that they ever were, but now -undisturbed and peaceful.</p> - -<p>The remains of the primitive inhabitants are abundant over the -Peninsula. Along the sea shores and water courses are numerous heaps of -shells, bones and pottery, vestiges of once populous villages; small -piles of earth and “old fields” in the interior still witness to their -agricultural character; and large mounds from ten to twenty-five feet in -height filled with human bones testify to the pious regard they felt -toward their departed relatives, and the care with which, in accordance -with the traditions of their race, they preserved the skeletons of the -dead. As for those “highways” and “artificial lakes” which the botanist -Bartram thought he saw on the St. John river, they have not been visible -to less enthusiastic eyes. Mounds of stones, of large size and enigmatic -origin, have also been found (Prof. Jeffries Wyman).</p> - -<p>For half a century after its discovery, no European power attempted to -found a colony in Florida. Then, in 1562, the celebrated French -Huguenot, Admiral de<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34"></a>{34}</span> Coligny, sent over a number of his own faith and -nation, who erected a fort near the mouth of the St. John. As they were -upon Spanish territory, to which they had no right, and were peculiarly -odious to the Spanish temper by their religion, they met an early and -disastrous fate. They were attacked and routed in 1565 by a detatchment -of Spaniards under the command of Pedro Menendez de Aviles, a soldier of -distinction. The circumstance was not characterized by any greater -atrocity than was customary on both sides in the religious wars of the -sixteenth century, but it has been a text for much bitter writing since, -and was revenged a few years after by a similar massacre by a French -Protestant, Dominique de Gourgues, and a party of Huguenots.</p> - -<p>Pedro Menendez established at once (1565) the city of St. Augustine and -showed himself a capable officer. Under the rule of his successors the -Spanish sway gradually extended over the islands of the eastern coast, -and the region of middle Florida. The towns of St. Marks and Pensacola -were founded on the western coast, and several of the native tribes were -converted to Christianity.</p> - -<p>This prosperity was rudely interrupted in the first decade of the -eighteenth century by the inroads of the Creek Indians, instigated and -directed by the English settlers of South Carolina. The churches were -burned, the converts killed or scattered, the plantations destroyed, and -the priests driven to the seaport towns.</p> - -<p>The colony languished under the rule of Spain until, in 1763, it was -ceded to Great Britain. Some life was then instilled into it. Several -colonies were planted on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35"></a>{35}</span> the St. John river and the sea coast, and a -small garrison stationed at St. Marks.</p> - -<p>In 1770 it reverted once more to Spain, under whose rule it remained in -an uneasy condition until 1821, when it was purchased by the United -States for the sum of five million dollars. Gen. Andrew Jackson was the -first Governor, and treated the old inhabitants in his usual summary -manner. In 1824 the seat of government was fixed at Tallahassee, the -site of an old Indian town.</p> - -<p>At the time of the purchase there were about 4,000 Indians and refugee -negroes scattered over the territory. These very soon manifested that -jealousy of their rights, and resentment against the whites, which have -ever since been their characteristics. From the time of the cession -until the out-break of our civil struggle, the soil of Florida was the -scene of one almost continual border war. The natives gave ground very -slowly, and it was estimated that for every one of them killed or -banished beyond the Mississippi by our armies, the general government -expended ten thousand dollars.</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-2_BOOKS_AND_MAPS" id="chap-2_BOOKS_AND_MAPS"></a>2.—BOOKS AND MAPS.</h4> - -<p>The facts which I have here sketched in barest outline have been told at -length by many able writers. The visitor to the scene of so many -interesting incidents should provide himself with some or all of the -following works, which will divert and instruct him in many a lagging -hour:</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Parkman</span>, <i>Pioneers of France in the New World</i>. This contains an -admirably written account of the Huguenot colony on the St. John.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36"></a>{36}</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fairbanks</span>, <i>The Spaniards in Florida</i>. (Published by Columbus Drew, -Jacksonville, Florida.) An excellent historical account of the Spanish -colony.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sprague</span>, <i>History of the Florida War</i>. This is a correct and vivid -narrative of the struggle with the Seminoles. The book is now rarely met -with in the trade.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Gen. George A. McCall</span>, <i>Letters from the Frontiers</i>. (Lippincott & Co., -Philadelphia, 1868.) These letters are mostly from Florida, and contain -many interesting pictures of army life and natural scenery there.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">R. M. Bache</span>, <i>The Young Wrecker of the Florida Reef</i>. (Claxton, Remsen & -Haffelfinger, Philadelphia, 1869.) This is a “book for boys,” and is -interesting for all ages. The author was engaged on the Coast Survey, -and describes with great power and accuracy the animal and vegetable -life of the Southern coast.</p> - -<p><i>Life of Audubon.</i> (Putnam & Son, 1869.) This contains a number of -letters of the great ornithologist while in Florida.</p> - -<p>A detailed description of the earlier works on the peninsula can be -found in a small work I published some years ago, entitled “<i>The -Floridian Peninsula, Its Literary History, Indian Tribes, and -Antiquities</i>.” (For sale by the publishers of the present book.)</p> - -<p><i>On the Antiquities of the Peninsula.</i> Prof. Jeffries Wyman, of Harvard -College, published, not long since, a very excellent article in the -second volume of the <i>American Naturalist</i>.</p> - -<p>Every tourist should provide himself with a good State map of Florida. -The best extant is that prepared and published by Columbus Drew, of -Jacksonville,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37"></a>{37}</span> Florida, in covers, for sale by the publishers of this -work. Two very complete partial maps have been issued by the U. S. -government, the one from the bureau of the Secretary of War, in 1856, -entitled, “A Military Map of the Peninsula of Florida South of Tampa -Bay,” on a scale of 1 to 400,000, the other from the U. S. Coast Survey -office in 1864, drawn by Mr. H. Lindenkohl, embracing East Florida north -of the 29th degree, on a scale of 10 miles to the inch. The latter -should be procured by any one who wishes to depart from the usual routes -of tourists.</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-3_PHYSICAL_GEOGRAPHY_OF_FLORIDA" id="chap-3_PHYSICAL_GEOGRAPHY_OF_FLORIDA"></a>3. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF FLORIDA.</h4> - -<ul> -<li>1. <span class="smcap">Geological Formation.</span></li> -<li>2. <span class="smcap">Soil and Crops.</span></li> -<li>3. <span class="smcap">Climate and Health.</span></li> -<li>4. <span class="smcap">Vegetable and Animal Life.</span></li> -</ul> - -<h5>1. <span class="smcap">Geological Formation.</span></h5> - -<p>Florida is a peninsula extending abruptly from the mainland of the -continent in a direction a little east of south. It is nearly 400 miles -in length, and has an average width of 130 miles. Its formation is -peculiar. Every other large peninsula in the world owes its existence to -a central mountain chain, which affords a stubborn resistance to the -waves. Florida has no such elevation, and mainly a loose, low, sandy -soil. Let us study this puzzle.</p> - -<p>The Apalachian (usually and incorrectly spelled Appalachian) plain, -sloping from the mountains to the Gulf of Mexico, lies on a vast bed of -tertiary, limestone and sand rock. About the thirtieth parallel of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38"></a>{38}</span> -north latitude this plain sinks to the sea level, except in middle -Florida, where it still remains 200 feet and more in height. This -elevation gradually decreases and reaches the water level below the 28th -parallel, south of Tampa Bay. It forms a ridge or spine about sixty -miles in width, composed of a porous limestone somewhat older than the -miocene group of the tertiary rocks, a hard blueish limestone, and a -friable sand rock.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> Around this spine the rest of the peninsula has -been formed by two distinct agencies.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> This “Back-Bone Ridge,” as it has been called, has a -rounded and singularly symmetrical form when viewed in cross section. -Where the Fernandina and Cedar Keys railroad crosses the peninsula, the -highest point, near Gainesville, is 180 feet in elevation, whence there -is a gradual slope, east and west.</p></div> - -<p>Between the ridge and the Atlantic ocean is a tract of sandy soil, some -forty miles in width, sloping very gently to the north. It is low and -flat, and is drained by the St. John river. So little fall has this -noble stream that 250 miles from its mouth it is only 12 miles distant -from an inlet of the ocean, and only 3 feet 6 inches above tide level, -as was demonstrated by the State survey made to construct a canal from -Lake Harney to Indian River. A section of the soil usually discloses a -thin top layer of vegetable mould, then from 3 to 6 feet of different -colored sand, then a mixture of clay, shells, and sand for several feet -further, when in many parts a curious conglomerate is reached, called -<i>coquina</i>, formed of broken shells and small pebbles cemented together -by carbonate of lime, no doubt of recent (post tertiary) formation. The -coquina is never found south of Cape Canaveral, nor north of the mouth -of the Matanzas river.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39"></a>{39}</span></p> - -<p>For the whole of this distance a glance at the map will show that the -coast is lined by long, narrow inlets, separated from the ocean by still -narrower strips of land. These inlets are the “lagoons.” The heavy rains -wash into them quantities of sediment, and this, with the loose sand -blown by the winds from the outer shore, gradually fills up the lagoon, -and changes it into a morass, and at last into a low sandy swamp, -through which a sluggish stream winds to its remote outlet. Probably the -St. John river was at one time a long lagoon, and probably all the land -between the ridge described and the eastern sea has been formed by this -slow process.</p> - -<p>The southern portion of the peninsula is also very low, rarely being -more than six feet above sea level, but its slope, instead of being -northward, is generally westward. Much of the surface is muddy rather -than sandy, and is characterized by two remarkable forms of vegetable -life, the Everglades and the Big Cypress.</p> - -<p>The Everglades cover an area of about 4,000 square miles, and embrace -more than one half of the State south of Lake Okee-chobee. They present -to the eye a vast field of coarse saw-grass springing from a soil of -quicksand and soft mud, from three to ten feet deep. During the whole -year the water rests on this soil from one to four feet in depth, -spreading out into lakes, or forming narrow channels. The substratum is -a limestone, not tertiary, but modern and coralline. Here and there it -rises above the mud, forming “keys” or islands of remarkable fertility, -and on the east and south makes a continuous ridge along the ocean, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40"></a>{40}</span> -to four miles wide, and from ten to fifteen feet high, which encloses -the interior low basin like a vast crescentic dam-breast.</p> - -<p>Lake Okee-chobee, 1,200 square miles in area, with an average depth of -twelve feet, is, in fact, only an extension of the Everglades.</p> - -<p>South of the Caloosa-hatchie river, between the Everglades and the Gulf, -extends the Big Cypress. This is a large swamp, fifty miles long and -thirty-five miles broad. Here the saw-grass gives way to groves of -cypress trees, with a rank and tangled undergrowth of vines. The soil is -either bog or quicksand, generally covered one or two feet deep with -stagnant water. The sun’s rays rarely penetrate the dense foliage, and -on the surface of the water floats a green slime, which, when disturbed, -emits a sickening odor of decay. Crooked pools and sluggish streams -traverse it in all directions, growing deeper and wider toward the Gulf -shore, where they cut up the soil into numberless segments, called the -Thousand Islands.</p> - -<p>The whole of this southern portion of the peninsula lies on a modern, -coral formation. The crescent-shaped ridge which forms the eastern and -southern boundary of the Everglades, commences north of Key Biscayne -Bay, and sweeps southwest to Cape Sable. From the same starting point, -another broken crescent of coralline limestone, but many miles longer, -extends to the Dry Tortugas, forming the Florida Keys. And beyond this -again some five or six miles, making a third crescent, is the Florida -Reef. Outside of the Reef, the bottom abruptly sinks to a depth of 800 -or 900 fathoms. Between the Reef and the Keys is the ship channel, -about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41"></a>{41}</span> 6 fathoms in depth; and between the Keys and the main land the -water is very shallow, and covers broad flats of white calcareous mud. -Between the coast-ridge and Lake Okee-chobee, the “Keys,” which are -scattered through the Everglades, are disposed in similar crescentic -forms, some seven regular concentric arcs having been observed. They are -all formed of the same character of coral rock as the present Reef and -Keys, and undoubtedly owe their existence to the same agency. Each of -these crescents was at one time a reef, until the industrious coral -animals built another reef further out in the water, when the older line -was broken up by the waves into small islands. Thus, for countless -thousands of years, has this work of construction been going on around -the extremity of the tertiary back bone ridge which at first projected -but a short distance into the waters.</p> - -<p>What, it may be asked, has impressed this peculiar and unusual -crescentic shape to the reefs? This is owing to the Gulf Stream. This -ocean-river rushes eastward through the Straits of Florida at the rate -of five or six miles an hour, yet it does not wash the reef. By some -obscure law of motion, an eddy counter-current is produced, moving -<i>westward</i>, close to the reef, with a velocity of one or two miles an -hour. Off Key West this secondary current is ten miles wide, with a -rapidity of two miles per hour. Its waters are constantly whitened by -the calcareous sands of the reef—the relics of the endless conflict -between the waves and the untiring coral insects. The slowly-built -houses of the latter are broken and tossed hither and thither by the -billows, until they are ground into powder, and scattered<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42"></a>{42}</span> through the -waters. After every gale the sea, for miles on either side of the reef, -is almost milk-white with the ruins of these coral homes.</p> - -<p>But nature is ever ready with some compensation. The impalpable dust -taken up by the counter-current is carried westward, and gradually sinks -to the bottom of the gulf, close to the northern border of the gulf -stream. At length a bank is formed, reaching to within 80 or 90 feet of -the surface. At this depth the coral insect can live, and straightway -the bank is covered with a multitudinous colony who commence building -their branching structures. A similar process originated all the -crescent-shaped lines of Keys which traverse the Everglades and Big -Cypress.</p> - -<h5>2. SOIL AND CROPS.</h5> - -<p>Much of the soil of Florida is not promising in appearance. The -Everglades and Cypress Swamps may be considered at present -agriculturally worthless. The ridge of sand and decomposed limestone -along the southern shore, from Cape Sable to Indian river, is capable, -however, of profitable cultivation, and offers the best field in the -United States for the introduction of tropical plants, especially -coffee. Its area is estimated at about 7,000,000 acres.</p> - -<p>The northern portion of the Peninsula is composed of “scrubs” (dry -sterile tracts covered with thickets of black-jack, oak, and spruce), -pine lands and hammocks (not hummocks—the latter is a New England word -with a different signification). The hammocks are rich river bottoms, -densely timbered with live oak, magnolia, palmetto, and other trees. -They cannot be surpassed for fertility, and often yield 70 to 80 bushels -of corn to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43"></a>{43}</span> the acre with very imperfect tillage. Of course, they are -difficult to clear, and often require drainage.</p> - -<p>The pine lands, which occupy by far the greater portion of the State, -make at first an unfavorable impression on the northern farmer. The -sandy pine lands near the St. John, are of deep white siliceous sand, -with little or no vegetable mould through it. The greater part of it -will not yield, without fertilizing, more than 12 or 15 bushels of corn -to the acre. In the interior, on the central ridge, the soil is a -siliceous alluvium on beds of argillaceous clay and marl. The limestone -rocks crop out in many places, and could readily be employed as -fertilizers, as could also the marl. Red clay, suitable for making -bricks, is found in the northern counties, and a number of brick yards -are in operation. Over this soil a growth of hickory is interspersed -with yellow pine, and much of the face of the country is rolling. By -mixing the hammock soil with the sand, an admirable loam is formed, -suited to raising vegetables and vines.</p> - -<p>Persons who visit Florida with a view to farming or gardening, should -not expect to find it a land of exhuberant fertility, that will yield -immense crops with little labor. East Florida is as a whole not a -fertile country in comparison with South Carolina or Illinois, and -probably never will be highly cultivated. On the other hand, they must -not be discouraged by the first impressions they form on seeing its -soil. Labor can do wonders there. The climate favors the growth of -vegetables and some staples, but labor, <i>hard work</i>, is just as -necessary as in Massachusetts. Middle and West Florida have much better -lands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44"></a>{44}</span></p> - -<p>The leading crops of the State are corn and cotton. Of the latter, the -improved short staple varieties are preferred, the long staple -nourishing only in East Florida. Some experiments have been tried with -Egyptian cotton, but on too small a scale to decide its value. The enemy -of the cotton fields is the caterpillar which destroys the whole crop in -a very short time. Nor can anything be done to stop its ravages. In the -vicinity of Tampa Bay and Indian River the sugar cane is successfully -raised, quite as well as in Louisiana. In good seasons it is also a very -remunerative crop in the northern counties, as it yields as much as -fifteen barrels of first class syrup to the acre, besides the sugar.</p> - -<p>Tobacco, which before the war was raised in considerable quantities in -Florida, has been much neglected since. Good Cuba seed has been -introduced, however, and some of the old attention is paid to it. The -character of soil and climate of certain portions of Florida, especially -the southeastern portion, is not very unlike that of the famed Vuelta -Abajo, and with good seed, and proper care in the cultivation and curing -of the leaf, it might be grown of a very superior quality.</p> - -<p>The climate is too warm for wheat, but rye and oats yield full crops, -though they are but little cultivated.—Sweet potatoes, yams, peas, and -groundnuts are unfailing, and of the very best qualities. The vine -yields abundantly, and it is stated on good authority that two thousand -gallons of wine per acre have been obtained from vineyards of the -Scuppernong grape in Leon county.</p> - -<p>Apples grow only to a limited extent, some being found in the northern -counties. Peaches, pears, apricots, oranges, limes, lemons, etc., are -well suited to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45"></a>{45}</span> soil and climate. The orange has two enemies, the -insect called the <i>coccus</i>, and the frost. The former seems disappearing -of late years, but the frosts have become more severe and more frequent, -so that north of the 28th degree, the orange crop is not dependable.</p> - -<p>The tropical plants, such as coffee, indigo, sesal hemp, etc., can -undoubtedly be cultivated with success on the southern and southeastern -coast, but hitherto, no serious attempt at their introduction has been -made. For further particulars under this head, see a pamphlet of 151 -pages prepared by Hon. John S. Adams, and published by the State, in -1869, entitled, “<i>Florida, its Climate, its Soil, and Productions</i>.”</p> - -<h5>3. CLIMATE AND HEALTH.</h5> - -<p>In regard to climate, Florida is in some respects unsurpassed by any -portion of the United States. The summers are not excessively hot, the -average temperature of the months of June, July, and August, being at -Tallahassee 79 degrees, Fah.; at St. Augustine, 80 degrees; Cedar Keys, -79 degrees; Tampa, 80 degrees; Miami, 81; and Key West, 82 degrees. The -winters are delightful, the temperature of the three winter months -averaging as follows: Tallahassee, 57 degrees; St. Augustine, 58 -degrees; Cedar Keys, 60 degrees; Tampa, 61 degrees; Miami, 67 degrees, -Key West, 70 degrees.</p> - -<p>The summer heats are debilitating, especially in the interior. On the -coast they are tempered by the sea-breeze, which rises about 10 a. m. No -part of the State is entirely free from frosts. In Jacksonville they -occur about once a week during the month of January, while at Miami they -only happen once in several years.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46"></a>{46}</span> Now and then a severe frost occurs, -which destroys the orange groves far to the south. One such in 1767 -destroyed all the orange trees at Fernandina and St. Augustine; another -in 1835 cut them down as far south as New Smyrna; in December, 1856, ice -was noted on the Miami river; and in December, 1868, there was such an -unprecedented cold snap that Lake Griffin, on the upper Oklawaha, bore -ice one-and-a-half inches thick. The orange crop was destroyed as far up -the St. John as Enterprise, and most of the trees ruined. On Indian -river, however, the cold was not felt to a damaging extent.</p> - -<p>The nights in winter are cool, and in the interior accompanied with -heavy dews.</p> - -<p>In summer, the prevailing winds are east and south-east, being portions -of the great air currents of the trade winds. Thunder storms are -frequent. In winter, variable winds from the north, northeast, and -north-west prevail. At times they rise to violent gales of several days -duration, called northers. These are most frequent on the west coast.</p> - -<p>The seasons of Florida are tropical in character, one being the dry and -the other the wet season. The annual rain-fall averages from fifty to -sixty inches. Three-fourths of this fall between April and October. -Sometimes there is nearly as much rain in the month of June as during -the six winter months together. Two inches and a-half is a fair average -each for the latter. The air is usually well charged with moisture, but -owing to the equability of the temperature, this would hardly be -suspected. Fogs are almost unknown, the sky is serene, the air clear, -and no sensation of dampness is experienced.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47"></a>{47}</span> The hygrometer alone -reminds us of how nearly the atmosphere is saturated with warm, watery -vapor.</p> - -<p>In the concluding chapters of this work I shall discuss at length the -adaptation of the climate to invalids, and shall here speak of it -chiefly as it affects residents.</p> - -<p>The prevailing diseases are of miasmatic origin. Dysentery of mild type, -pneumonia and diarrhœa are occasional visitors, but the most common -enemy to health is the swamp poison. Intermittent and remittent fevers -are common along the fresh water streams. On the sea coast they are -rare, and after the month of October they disappear, but in the summer -and early autumn they are very prevalent in some portions of the State. -They are, however, neither more severe nor more frequent than in the -lowlands of all the Gulf States, or in southern Indiana and Illinois.</p> - -<p>These complaints are characteristic of new settlements, usually -disappearing after the land has been cleared a few years. They can be -generally avoided by care in habits of life, and the moderate use of -some bitter tonic. All who are exposed should be on their guard, -avoiding excesses, over-work, getting chilled, the night dews, damp -clothing, etc.</p> - -<p>One fall I ascended the Ocklawaha river in a “pole-barge”—a large scow -propelled by poles. At night we fastened the boat to a tree, and slept -at some neighboring house. The captain and several of the “darkies” had -a diurnal shake, with great regularity, and I entered hardly a single -house from Palatka to Ocala in which one or more of the family were not -complaining of the same disease. I had no quinine with me, and in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48"></a>{48}</span> -default of it used as a preventive a strong tincture of the peel of the -bitter-sweet orange. Either through its virtues or good luck, I escaped -an attack, quite to the surprise of my companions. I repeat, however, -that during the winter there is no danger from this source, and even -during the sickly season an enlightened observance of the rules of -health will generally protect the traveler.</p> - -<h5>4. VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL LIFE.</h5> - -<p>The traveler who, for the first time, visits a southern latitude, has -his attention most strongly arrested by the new and strange forms of -vegetable life. I shall mention some of those which give the scenery of -Florida its most peculiar features.</p> - -<p>The most abundant is the saw palmetto, <i>chamærops Adansonii</i>. This -vigorous plant is found in all parts of the peninsula, flourishing -equally well in the pine barren and the hammock. It throws up its -sharp-edged leaves some four or five feet in length, from a large, round -root, which is, in fact, a trunk, extending along the surface of the -ground. The young shoots and inner pith of the root are edible, and were -often eaten by the Indians.</p> - -<p>The cabbage palm, another species of <i>Chamærops</i>, is one of the most -beautiful of trees. It raises its straight, graceful trunk to a height -of 50, 60 and 100 feet, without a branch, and then suddenly bursts into -a mass of dark green, pendant fronds. In the center of this mass, -enveloped in many folds, is found the tender shoot called the “cabbage.” -It tastes like a raw chestnut, and was highly prized by the Indians. -This palm is not found<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49"></a>{49}</span> north of St. Augustine, and is only seen in -perfection about Enterprise, and further south.</p> - -<p>The live oak and cypress are the tenants of the low grounds. The former -has a massive trunk, much esteemed for ship timber, spreading branches, -and small green leaves. It is a perennial, and is not found farther -north than South Carolina. The cypress stands in groups. Its symmetrical -shaft rises without branches to a considerable height, and then spreads -out numerous horizontal limbs, bearing a brown and scanty foliage. The -base of the trunk is often enlarged and distorted into strange shapes, -while scattered through the swamps are abortive attempts at trees, a -foot or two thick and five or six feet in height, ending in a round, -smooth top. These are called “cypress knees.”</p> - -<p>Two parasitic plants abound in the forests, the mistletoe and the -Spanish moss, <i>tillandsia usneoides</i>. The former has bright green leaves -and red berries. The latter attaches itself to the cypress and live oak, -and hangs in long gray wreaths and ragged masses from every bough in the -low lands.</p> - -<p>The southern shores and islands are covered with the mangrove, a species -of the <i>rhizophora</i>. It is admirably adapted to shore building. The seed -grows to a length of five or six inches before it leaves its calyx, when -it resembles in form and color an Havana cigar. When it drops into the -water it floats about until it strikes a beach, where it rapidly takes -root and shoots out branches. Each branch sends down its own root, and -soon the shore is covered with a dense growth, which in time rises to a -height of twenty or thirty feet, and prevents the sand from any further -shifting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50"></a>{50}</span></p> - -<p>Two varieties of a plant called by the Seminoles <i>koonta</i>, bread, grow -luxuriantly in the south. The red koonta, the <i>smilax china</i> of -botanists, is a thrifty, briary vine, with roots like a large potato. -The white koonta, a species of <i>zamia</i>, has large fern-like leaves and a -root like a parsnip. Both were used by the Indians as food, and yield -from 25 to 30 per cent. of starch.</p> - -<p>At some seasons, dense masses of vegetation form on the lakes and rivers -and drift hither and thither with the wind, natural floating islands. -They are composed chiefly of a water plant, the <i>pistia spathulata</i>, -with the stalks and leaves of the water lily, <i>nymphea nilumbo</i>.</p> - -<p>The bitter-sweet orange grows wild in great quantities along the -streams. It is supposed to be an exotic which has run wild, as none of -the species was found in the New World, and no mention is made of the -orange in the early accounts of the peninsula, as undoubtedly would have -been the case had it then flourished. The fruit has a taste not unlike -the Seville orange, and is freely eaten by the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>The cork tree, the sesal hemp, and other tropical plants have been -introduced, and no doubt could be successfully cultivated in the extreme -south. The coacoanut palm grows vigorously at Key West, and on the -adjacent mainland.</p> - -<p>The <i>animal life</i> of Florida indicates its proximity to the tropics. -Alligators are now scarce in the lower St. John, but are found in great -numbers in the interior. They are by no means dangerous. The largest I -ever saw was nearly 15 feet in length.</p> - -<p>The manatee, or sea cow, an herbivorous cetacean, midway between fish -and flesh, once abounded in Florida.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51"></a>{51}</span> When Audubon visited the -peninsula, his guide boasted of having killed “hundreds” of them, and -their bones are often found as far north as the Suwannee river. The -Manatee spring and Manatee river bear record in their names to their -former abundance. Now, I think, they are nearly extinct. A few still -linger in the extreme south. Two were caught on the Indian river in the -commencement of 1869, and exhibited in Jacksonville and Savannah.</p> - -<p>The gopher, <i>testudo polyphemus</i>, is a large land turtle found in the -pine woods, and is esteemed as an article of diet. The deer, panther, -black bear, black and grey wolf are quite common.</p> - -<p>Beautiful perroquets, wild turkeys, white and rose-colored curlew, the -latter prized for their tinted wings, pelicans, cormorants, herons, -fish-crows, and cranes are seen in great numbers.</p> - -<p>The moccason and rattle-snake are the only venomous serpents. The former -is most feared, but I do not remember to have heard of many deaths from -the bite of either. Scorpions, centipedes and tarantulas abound, but are -not very poisonous, and never fatally so. The mosquitoes are at times -dreadfully annoying, and there is no escape from them. Sand-flies, -ticks, and knats also mar the pleasures of camp life, but the true -hunter rises superior to such inconveniences.</p> - -<p>The best river fish is the trout—not the speckled native of the -northern streams, but of good flavor, and “game” when hooked. The -mullet—a fish about a foot long—swarms on the coast in incredible -numbers. The pompano is considered almost as good as the salmon. Catfish -are large and coarse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52"></a>{52}</span></p> - -<h4><a name="chap-4_THE_ST_JOHN_RIVER_ST_AUGUSTINE_AND_INDIAN_RIVER" id="chap-4_THE_ST_JOHN_RIVER_ST_AUGUSTINE_AND_INDIAN_RIVER"></a>4. THE ST. JOHN RIVER, ST. AUGUSTINE, AND INDIAN RIVER.</h4> - -<p>The St. John river is about 400 miles in length, and from two to three -miles wide, as far up as Lake George. It is, in fact, rather an arm of -the sea than a river, and probably is the remains of an ancient lagoon. -Its current is about one mile an hour, and the slope of its bed so -little that at such a distance from its mouth as at Lake Monroe, a -careful survey showed that it was but three feet six inches above sea -level. The tides are perceptible as far as Lake George, and its water -more or less brackish at least this far. This may be partly owing to -several large salt springs which empty into it. Its waters are of a -light coffee-color, frequently covered with a perceptible scum. Above -Lake George they are pleasant to the taste, but do not easily quench the -thirst, apparently owing to the salts of various kinds in solution.</p> - -<p>Contrary to all the other large streams in the United States, the St. -John flows nearly due south until within fifteen miles of its mouth, -when it turns abruptly to the east, entering the Atlantic at 30 degrees -24 seconds, north latitude. For this peculiarity of its course, the -Chahtas named it <i>Il-la-ka</i>, corrupted into <i>Welaka</i> by the whites. Mr. -Buckingham Smith asked an intelligent native what the word meant. He -answered slowly: “It hath its own way, is alone, and contrary to every -other.”</p> - -<p>The only important tributary it receives is the Oklawaha. They each -drain a row of numerous ponds, lakes, and marshes, and are separated by -the Thlauhatke, or White Hills, the highest hills in the peninsula, and -an elevated sandy ridge, covered with scruboak, known as the “Eteniah -scrub.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53"></a>{53}</span>”</p> - -<p>The St. John was discovered in 1562, by Jean Ribaut, leader of the -Huguenot colony of Admiral Coligny. He named it the River May, having -entered it in that month. In the Spanish chronicles it is referred to as -the Rio de San Matteo (St. Matthew). When it was named San Juan, does -not appear, but the English took this name and translated it into the -present appellation.</p> - -<p>In accordance with the best usage of our geographical writers, I shall -omit the possessive sign, and speak of it as the St. John river; and in -mentioning localities on the right or left bank, the reader is notified -that while geographically these terms are used as if a person were -<i>descending</i> the river, for the convenience of the traveler I use them -as of one <i>ascending</i> it.</p> - -<p>The <i>mouth</i> of the St. John is hardly a mile wide, and is impeded by a -shifting sand bar, having rarely more than seven feet of water at low -tide. The entrance is by a southerly pass, which leaves the course of -the stream concealed by the shore of Baton island, on the north. This -island is settled by a number of river pilots with their families, hardy -and worthy people. On the southern shore the tourist sees the old and -new lighthouses, and a row of brilliantly white sand dunes extending -inland a mile or more.</p> - -<p>Baton Island passed, an extensive salt marsh is seen to form the -northern bank of the river; through this numerous sluggish streams wind -their way, forming part of the “inside, passage” to Fernandina. Near the -entrance of this passage a number of symmetrical mounds, from 20 to 50 -feet in height, strike the eye. These are known as “The Sisters,” or -more prosaically<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54"></a>{54}</span> as the “Oyster Banks,” as, on examination, they prove -to be composed almost exclusively of broken oyster shells, covered with -a tangled low shrubbery. No doubt they are relics of the many glorious -oyster feasts indulged in by the indigenes in times gone by. I regret -that they were not visited by Prof. Jeffries Wyman, who has given us so -excellent an account of the “Fresh-Water-Shell-Heaps of the St. John’s -River, East Florida,” (Salem, Mass., 1868).</p> - -<p>Having passed the bar, the river rapidly widens. About six miles from -the entrance the channel runs close along the base of a hill or headland -of moderate height, covered with pine, cedar, etc. This is *<i>St. John’s -Bluff</i>, and is unquestionably the site of Fort Caroline, the settlement -of Coligny’s band of Huguenots in 1562.</p> - -<p>A tragic interest surrounds this spot. Here, in 1564, Rene de -Laudonniere established the colony of French Protestants, intending to -reclaim a portion of this vast wilderness. His action was soon reported -at the jealous court of Spain.</p> - -<p>Phillip II. at once despatched Pedro Menendez de Aviles, an accomplished -soldier and earnest Catholic, to root out the feeble colony. It was done -only too well. In the excitement of a surprise, Sept. 19th, 1565, the -orders of Menendez to spare the women, the old men, and the children -were disregarded by the furious soldiery, and nearly every one was -massacred. Laudonniere and a few others escaped by scrambling down the -rough and thorn-covered eastern face of the bluff, and wading through -the marshes to the mouth of the river, where they reached their ships. -They bore the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55"></a>{55}</span> distressing tidings to France. The ruler of that realm, -the projector of the massacre of St. Bartholemew, and the son of -Catharine de Medicis, was not the one to trouble himself about the death -of a few Huguenots who had encroached on foreign soil. But the stain of -unavenged blood did not remain on France. A private gentleman, Dominique -de Gourgues, fitted out an expedition in 1568. Suddenly appearing before -Fort Caroline, then manned by Spanish troops, he attacked and routed the -garrison and burned the structure. As it was reported that Menendez had -inscribed on a tablet that the massacre of the Huguenots was not done -“as to Frenchmen but to heretics;” so De Gourgues returned the grim -courtesy, and left an inscription that the dead men around had been -slain “not as Spaniards, but as traitors, thieves and murderers.”</p> - -<p>In 1856, some copper coins were found near here bearing the inscription:</p> - -<p class="c"> -KAROLUS ET JOANNA RE.<br /> -</p> - -<p>They were identified by Mr. Buckingham Smith as of the reign of Carlos -I. (Charles V.) and Donna Juanna, and therefore date from about 1550.</p> - -<p>More recently a coin of about the same period, and from the same spot, -but with a different and not fully legible inscription was exhibited to -the Numismatic and Antiquarian Society of Philadelphia.</p> - -<p>During the late civil war the Bluff was fortified by a detachment of -Confederate troops, and for some days held against the gunboats of the -United States forces. At length they were out-flanked by a party of -Union soldiers, who made their way in the rear by the margin of the -swamp, and the work was surrendered.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56"></a>{56}</span></p> - -<p>A few miles beyond the bluff the boat stops at</p> - -<h5>YELLOW BLUFF.</h5> - -<p>It has a post office and one small boarding-house, ($8.00 per week,) -about 40 inhabitants, mostly engaged in fishing. Near by is a small -fort, built during the recent war, and on the opposite bank of the -river, on a plantation called New Castle, are an Indian mound and the -vestiges of an ancient, quadrilateral earthwork of Spanish origin.</p> - -<p>Yellow Bluff was first chosen by Col. I. D. Hart as the city which he -proposed to build on the St. John, but as he found some marsh land near -which he thought might prove disadvantageous to such a large city as he -contemplated founding, he passed further up the stream and built his -cabin on the spot now known as the “Cow’s Ford,” where the King’s Road -in the old days crossed the river and connected St. Augustine with the -northern settlements, twenty-five miles above the bar. This spot, then -occupied by a few straggling whites and half breeds, is now the site of -the flourishing city of</p> - -<h5>JACKSONVILLE.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—*St. James, on the public square, with airy piazzas, $4.00 a -day; *Taylor House, fronts the river; *Price House, close to the -railroad depot; St. John’s House, in the center of the city; Howard -House; Cowart House; Union House; Florida House; *Rochester House, on -the bluff south of the town; from $2.00 to $3.00 a day.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding Houses.</i>—Mrs. Freeland, Mrs. Hodgson, Mrs. Alderman opposite -the Taylor House, and many others.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57"></a>{57}</span></p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i> The <i>Florida Union</i>, repub.; <i>Mercury and Floridian</i>; -<i>Florida Land Register</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Bookseller.</i>—<span class="smcap">Columbus Drew</span>, publisher of <i>Brinton’s Guide-Book of -Florida and the South</i>. Mr. Drew makes a specialty of keeping works on -Florida.</p> - -<p><i>Churches</i> of all the principal denominations.</p> - -<p>Jacksonville, so named after General Andrew Jackson, has now a -population of 7,000 souls, and is rapidly increasing that number. It is -destined to be the most important city in Florida, as it is already the -largest. It is located between two creeks which fall into the St. John -about a mile and a quarter apart. These form the present corporation -limits, but several suburbs or additions have been recently formed -beyond these streams. Brooklyn and Riverside are on the bank southwest -of the town; Scottsville, immediately east of the eastern creek, is the -principal location of the large saw mills which constitute one of the -most important industries of the city; Wyoming is on the bluff one and a -half miles northeast; and finally La Villa is a small suburb on an -island to the west.</p> - -<p>Many of the residences of Jacksonville are substantially built of brick -manufactured from native clay, but wood is the prevailing material. -Several handsome residences are conspicuous from the river, and every -season a number of elegant cottages are added to the town. It is a -favorite residence for invalids during the winter months, on account of -its superior accommodations and ease of access. Indeed, too many of them -remain here who would be improved by a nearer approach to the extreme -south. The sight of so many sick often affects one unfavorably.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58"></a>{58}</span></p> - -<p>The streets of Jacksonville are sandy, and the vicinity only moderately -fertile. The health of the city is good at all seasons, miasmatic -disease not being common. There was an epidemic of yellow fever in 1857, -but it has never since returned.</p> - -<p>During the war Jacksonville suffered severely. It was first partially -burned by the Confederates, then three separate times occupied by the -Union troops, the third time catching fire in the assault. About half a -dozen blocks of houses were then burned, including the Catholic and -Episcopal churches. Of course the result of these experiences was little -short of desolation. Grass grew waist high in the streets, and the few -cattle that remained found for themselves stalls in the deserted stores -and houses. Now, however, one can hardly credit the fact that such was -ever the case.</p> - -<p>Steamboats leave Jacksonville for Enterprise (206 miles), about every -other day. One line is owned by Capt. Brock, who for many years has run -the steamer “Darlington” up and down the river. The accommodations on -all the steamers are fair, and no one should omit to make the round -trip, even if he does not tarry on the road. Fare to Enterprise, $9.00.</p> - -<p>About a mile above this city the river widens once more. The banks are -usually 3 or 4 feet high, thickly set with live oak, pine and cypress. -Here and there the pine barren cuts across the hammock to the river. In -such places the banks are 8 or 10 feet high, and the tall yellow pine -with an abundant undergrowth of palmetto gives same variety to the -otherwise monotonous view. 15 miles from Jacksonville, on the left -(east) hand is the small town of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59"></a>{59}</span></p> - -<h5>MANDARIN.</h5> - -<p><i>Post Office.</i> No hotel. Boarding can be had with Mr. Chas. F. Reed, -near the landing. Mr. Foote, the postmaster, will give further -information about the chance for accommodations in private families. A -new School house and church. The name is said to have been derived from -the Mandarin or China orange introduced here. This little place has -about a dozen houses and a back country three or four miles in extent. -The location is pleasing and the soil good. Several flourishing orange -groves can be seen from the river. One of them about six acres in extent -is owned by Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, who has a pleasant country house -here, and visits it every winter. It stands close to the river, on a -bluff about 12 feet high. A little higher up the river the Marquis de -Talleyrand has laid out handsome grounds.</p> - -<p>This is one of the localities associated with the atrocities of border -warfare. In December, 1841, the Seminole Indians attacked and burnt the -town and massacred the inhabitants almost to the last soul. “For sixteen -hours,” says Captain Sprague in his account of the occurrence, “the -savages, naked and painted, danced around the corpses of the slain.”</p> - -<p>Above Mandarin the river narrows and then again expands, the banks -continuing of the same character. Ten miles above, on the right (west) -bank is</p> - -<h5>HIBERNIA.</h5> - -<p>*<i>Hotel</i>, Mrs. Fleming, one of the best on the river, accommodates about -35 persons, $2.50 per day, $15.00 per week. This very pleasant spot is -on an island,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60"></a>{60}</span> about five miles long, immediately north of the entrance -of Black Creek. It is separated from the mainland by a body of water -known as Doctor’s Lake, which, toward its southern extremity, is lost in -a broad marsh. The “river walk” near the boarding house is a delightful -promenade about three-fourths of a mile long under the spreading -branches of noble live oaks. The hotel is near the landing, which is on -the east side of the island. Visitors can readily obtain boats, and the -vicinity offers many attractive spots for short excursions, picnics, and -fishing parties. Rooms should be engaged by letter.</p> - -<p>Three miles above Hibernia is</p> - -<h5>MAGNOLIA.</h5> - -<p>This large building was erected by Dr. Benedict in 1851 with special -reference to the wants of invalids, and their treatment under medical -supervision. During the war it was used for various purposes and was -much injured, but it has now been thoroughly refitted by a company, and -placed under the charge of Dr. Rogers, formerly of Worcester, Mass., a -capable and judicious physician, who proposes to continue it as a -sanitarium. The building can accommodate comfortably about 50 boarders. -The position is agreeable, a majestic oak grove shading the grounds, -while at a little distance the pine forest scatters its aromatic odors -in the air.</p> - -<p>Divided from it by a small creek, but 2 miles above as the river runs, -is</p> - -<h5>GREEN COVE SPRING.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i> Green Cove House, by Mr. J. Ramington, and boarding houses by -Captain Henderson, and Captain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61"></a>{61}</span> Glinskie, all said to be well kept; fare -about $15.00 per week. This spring has been long celebrated for its -mineral properties. It is sulphurous, and has been found of value in -chronic rheumatism, cutaneous disease and dyspepsia. The temperature is -78 Fah. at all seasons. The basin varies in diameter from 35 to 40 feet -at different points. The water rushes up with force forming what is -called the “boil.” Recently a portion of the bottom of the spring gave -way, and the orifice through which the water rises was covered. But the -earth was cleared out, and the “boil” re-instated. Facilities for -bathing are afforded, though not to that extent which were desirable.</p> - -<p>12 miles above green Cove on the left bank is</p> - -<h5>PICOLATA.</h5> - -<p>Boarding with Mr. T. F. Bridier. This is the station where passengers to -St. Augustine land. It is much to be regretted that there is no hotel -here, and only poor and insufficient accommodations in the house owned -by the stage company. Usually but one line of stages runs to St. -Augustine, and they are often densely crowded, and most uncomfortable. A -second line was put on in Jan., 1869. The usual fare to St. Augustine is -$3.00; distance 18 miles. By competition it has been reduced to $1.00.</p> - -<h5>FROM PICOLATA TO ST. AUGUSTINE</h5> - -<p class="nind">the road leads through an open pine country with an undergrowth of -palmettoes. Here and there a clump of cypress, with a tangled mass of -briars and vines around their trunks, diversifies the scene. The soil is -miserably poor, and hardly a dozen houses are passed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62"></a>{62}</span> in the whole -distance. Deep white sand obstructs the stage, and not so rarely as one -wishes the wheels strike a pine or palmetto root with a most unpleasant -effect upon the passengers, especially if they are invalids. After 3½ -hours of this torture, the stage is checked by the Sebastian river, over -which a miserable ferry boat conveys the exhausted tourist who at length -finds himself in St. Augustine.</p> - -<h5>ST. AUGUSTINE.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels</i>: Florida House (dear and poor,) Magnolia House, fine piazza -(grounds recently fitted up.) About $4.00 per day, <i>slight</i> reduction by -the month.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding Houses</i>: Mrs. Abbot, Mrs. Fatio, Mrs. Gardner, Mrs. Brava, -Miss Dummitt. Charges, $15.00 to $20.00 per week. As a rule, the tables -of the boarding houses are better kept than those of the hotels. -Families can rent houses by the month, and sometimes furnished rooms, -and thus live much cheaper. Apply to B. E. Carr, J. L. Phillips, or John -Long.</p> - -<p><i>Billiard Saloon</i>, at Delot’s Restaurant.</p> - -<p><i>Post Office</i> on the Plaza, mail tri-weekly. Telegraph office near the -market house on the Plaza.</p> - -<p><i>Newspaper</i>—<i>St. Augustine Examiner</i>, weekly. <i>Reading Room</i> at the -editor’s office, 25 cts. a week.</p> - -<p><i>Drug Store</i>—Dr. J. P. Mackay.</p> - -<p><i>Military Music</i>—On the Plaza every other night.</p> - -<p><i>Churches</i>—Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist chapel -opposite the Magnolia House, Colored Baptist.</p> - -<p><i>Bathing-House</i>, on Bay Street, white flag for ladies, red flag for -gentlemen, on alternate days. Season ticket $5.00.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63"></a>{63}</span></p> - -<p><i>Local Histories.</i>—*Fairbanks, The Spaniards in Florida, (1868, the -best, published by Columbus Drew, Jacksonville, Fla.); Sewall, Sketches -of St. Augustine, 1848, (illustrated); St. Augustine, Florida, by an -English visitor, (1869, by Mrs. Yelverton; inaccurate).</p> - -<p>St. Augustine (population 1,200 white, 600 black), the oldest settlement -in the United States, was founded in 1565, by Pedro Menendez, a Spanish -soldier, born in the city of Aviles. The site originally chosen was -south of where the city now stands, but the subsequent year (1566) a -fort was erected on the present spot. It received its name because -Menendez first saw the coast of Florida on St. Augustine’s day.</p> - -<p>Little is known of its early history. In 1586 it was burned by Sir -Francis Drake; and in 1665, Captain Davis, an English buccaneer, sacked -and plundered it without opposition, the inhabitants, numbering at that -time a few hundred, probably fleeing to the fort. This building, which -had formerly been of logs, was commenced of stone about 1640.</p> - -<p>As it was found that the sea was making inroads upon the town, about the -end of the seventeenth century, a sea-wall was commenced by the Spanish -Governor, Don Diego de Quiroga y Losada, extending from the Fort to the -houses, all of which, at that time, were south of the Plaza. The top of -this first sea-wall can still be seen in places along Bay street, -occupying nearly the middle of the street.</p> - -<p>Early in the last century, the English in Carolina, in alliance with the -Creek (Muskoki) Indians commenced a series of attacks on the Spanish -settlements. In 1702, Governor Moore made a descent on St. Augustine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64"></a>{64}</span> by -land and sea, burnt a portion of the town, and destroyed all the -plantations in the vicinity. The inhabitants once more fled to the -castle, which, we are told, was surrounded by a very deep and broad -moat. But the priests had not time to remove the church plate. This, and -much other booty, fell into Gov. Moore’s hands—all of which he kept for -himself to the great disgust of his companions in arms.</p> - -<p>Again, in 1725, Col. Palmer, of Carolina, at the head of 300 whites and -Indians attacked and ravaged the Spanish settlements, completely -annihilating their field-husbandry, burning the country houses, and -forcing the inhabitants of St. Augustine to flee as usual to the castle.</p> - -<p>In 1732, Governor Oglethorpe founded the colony of Georgia, on the -Savannah river. Eight years afterwards he made his memorable attack on -St. Augustine. At that date the city numbered 2,143 inhabitants, -including the garrison (the latter probably about one half the whole -number.) The city was intrenched, with salient angles and redoubts, the -space enclosed being about half a mile long and quarter of a mile wide. -The castle mounted 50 pieces of brass cannon. Its walls were of stone, -casemated, with four bastions. The moat was 40 feet wide, and twelve -feet deep. Governor Oglethorpe, therefore, undertook a difficult task -when he set out in midsummer to besiege a place of this strength. He -planted his principal batteries on Anastasia island, where their remains -are still distinctly traceable, and bombarded castle and city with -considerable vigor for 20 days. He discovered, however, to his -mortification, that his shot produced hardly any more effect on the -coquina rock of which the walls were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65"></a>{65}</span> built, than on so much sand. After -prolonging the siege 38 days, (June 13—July 20, 1740,) he withdrew.</p> - -<p>The exterior of the works was finally completed by Don Alonzo Fernando -Hereda, in 1756, since which time no alterations of importance have been -made.</p> - -<p>St. Augustine, always the capital of the province during the Spanish -supremacy, changed hands with the whole peninsula in 1763, 1781, and -1821. It had a temporary prosperity during the first Seminole war, when -it was used as a military and naval station. In 1862 the naval force of -the United States took possession of it, without resistance, and a -garrison of New Hampshire volunteers was stationed there.</p> - -<p>A large percentage of the natives show traces of Spanish blood. They are -usually embraced under the name “Minorcans.”</p> - -<p>In 1767 a speculative Englishman, Dr. Turnbull, brought over a colony of -about 1200 Greeks, Italians, Corsicans and Minorcans, and settled near -New Smyrna. After a few years, wearied with his tyranny, most of those -who survived,—not more in all than 600,—removed to St. Augustine. They -were a quiet, somewhat industrious, and ignorant people, and many of -their descendants much mixed in blood still live in St. Augustine. Their -language is fast dying out. The young people speak only English. The -following verse from the <i>Fromajardis</i>, or Easter Song, was written down -in 1843. The italic <i>e</i> is the neutral vowel.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Sant Gabiel<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Qui portaba la ambasciado<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Dee nostro rey del cel,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Estaran vos prenada<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Ya omitiada<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66"></a>{66}</span><br /></span> -<span class="i1">Tu o vais aqui surventa<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Fia del Dieu contenta<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Para fe lo que el vol<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Disciar<i>e</i>m lu dol<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Cantar<i>e</i>m aub ’alagria<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Y n’arem a da<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Las pascuas a Maria,<br /></span> -<span class="i8">O Maria.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>I have no doubt but that this is somewhat incorrect, as I am informed -that the ordinary language of the old natives is comparatively pure -Spanish.</p> - -<p>St. Augustine is built on a small Peninsula, between the St. Sebastian -River, itself an arm of the sea, and the Bay. Its plan is that of an -oblong parallelogram, traversed longitudinally by two principal streets, -which are intersected at right angles by cross streets. The Isthmus -connecting the Peninsula to the main is on the north, and is -strengthened by a stone causeway. The ruins of a suburb, called the -North City, are visible near it. Most of the streets are narrow, without -sidewalks, and shaded by projecting balconies.</p> - -<p>On the east is the harbor, a sheet of water about eight fathoms in -depth, known as the Matanzas river. It is separated from the ocean by -Anastasia, or Fish Island, a narrow tract of land about fourteen miles -long. The inlet is variable in depth, but rarely averages over five -feet.</p> - -<p>The principal buildings are of <i>Coquina</i> rock. This is a concretion of -fragments of shells, of recent formation. It extends along the east -coast for about a hundred and fifty miles, in some places rising above -the surface level, at others covered with several feet of sand. In one -spot, near St. Augustine, it rests upon a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67"></a>{67}</span> peat bog. The quarries are on -Anastasia Island, and are worth visiting.</p> - -<p>Near the center of the town is the *Plaza, or square. In its midst is an -unpretending monument, square at the base, and eighteen feet high, on -which is inscribed:</p> - -<p> -<span class="smcap">Plaza de la Constitucion</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>This was erected in 1812, to commemorate the short-lived constitutional -form of government then instituted in Spain.</p> - -<p>The building on the west side of the square was the residence of the -Spanish Governors. It has been rebuilt and much altered since the -purchase of the territory, and is now used for the United States Court. -On the opposite side, between the Square and the water, is the Market -House.</p> - -<p>The building on the north side is the Roman Catholic Church. Its quaint -belfry has four bells which ring forth the Angelus thrice daily. One of -these has the following inscription:</p> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Sancte Joseph,<br /> -Ora pro Nobis.<br /> -A. D., 1682.</i></p> - -<p>This church was commenced in 1793, and doubtless this bell was brought -from the previous church, which was on St. George street. In the -interior, the ceiling is painted, the floor of concrete, and there are a -few pictures, none of note. Many of its attendants are descendants of -Spanish and Minorcan families.</p> - -<p>Opposite the Roman Catholic, is the Episcopal church, consecrated in -1833.</p> - -<p>The oldest building in the city is supposed to be that at the corner of -Green Lane and Bay street. A century<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68"></a>{68}</span> ago it was the residence of the -English attorney general, and was probably built about 1750. It will be -observed that the coquina rock does not wear very well.</p> - -<p>At the north end of the town, where the causeway (of modern -construction) connects with the main land, is the *City Gate, flanked by -two square pillars, with Moorish tops. On either side a dry ditch, and -the remains of a wall, mark the fortified limits of the city.</p> - -<p>At the southern extremity of the peninsula are the Barracks, built on -the foundations of the ancient Franciscan convent. From their top a fine -view of the town can be obtained. In the rear of the main building is a -Cemetery where the victims of “Dade’s Massacre,” during the 1st Seminole -war, were buried, and other members of the U. S. forces.</p> - -<p>Still further south are the United States Arsenal and the remains of an -ancient breastwork.</p> - -<p>The whole east front of the town for more than a mile is occupied by the -*<i>sea wall</i>. It was built by the United States (1837-1843) to prevent -the encroachment of the waves. The material is coquina stone topped by -granite. It is wide enough for two persons to walk abreast upon it, and -it is a favorite evening promenade. It encloses two handsome basins, -with steps leading to the water.</p> - -<p>Fort Marion, or, as it was formerly called, the castle of San Marco, -occupies a commanding position on the north of the city. It is -considered a fine specimen of military architecture, having been -constructed on the principles laid down by the famous engineer Vauban. -No fees are required for visitors. The walls are 21 feet high, with -bastions at each corner, the whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69"></a>{69}</span> structure being in the form of a -trapezium, and enclosing an area about sixty yds. square. The main -entrance is by a drawbridge. Over this is sculptured on a block of stone -the Spanish coat of arms, surmounted by the globe and cross, with a -Maltese cross and lamb beneath. Immediately under the arms is this -inscription:</p> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Reynando en Espana el Senr<br /> -Don Fernando Sexto y siendo<br /> -Govor. y Capn. de esa. Cd. San. Augn. de<br /> -La Florida y sus Prova. el Mariscal<br /> -de campos Don Alonzo Ferndo. Hereda<br /> -Asi concluio este Castillo el an<br /> -OD. 1756. Dirigiendo las obras el<br /> -Cap Ingnro. Dn. Pedro de Brozas<br /> -y Garay.</i><br /> -</p> - -<p>“Don Ferdinand VI. being king of Spain, the field marshal, Don Alonzo -Fernando Hereda, governor and captain of this city of San Augustin de la -Florida and its provinces, finished this castle in the year 1756, the -captain of engineers Don Pedro de Brozas y Garay superintending the -work.”</p> - -<p>From the space in the interior, doors lead to the casemates. Opposite -the entrance, in the northern casemate, is the apartment which was -formerly used as a chapel. The altar stone is still preserved. In -another apartment, the small window is pointed out through which -Coacoochee, a distinguished Seminole chieftain, made his escape in the -first Seminole war. Under the north east bastion there are subterranean -cells, probably used for confining prisoners, in one of which a human -skeleton is said to have been found. The curtain on the east side of the -fort, still shows the marks of Oglethorpe’s cannon balls.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70"></a>{70}</span></p> - -<p>The vicinity of St. Augustine is uninteresting. A pleasant drive can be -taken through the town and along the east bank of the Sebastian river. A -sail along Matanzas river has some attractions. Several good sail boats -can be hired, some accommodating twenty or twenty-five persons, price -$5.00 a day. A few miles south of the city an elevated spot marks the -remains of General Moultrie’s (of revolutionary fame) residence. At the -southern extremity of Anastasia island the ruins of a Spanish look-out -are visible. Rock island, on the north shore of the inlet near this -point, has a remarkable Indian mound.</p> - -<p>Curlews and snipes afford some good sport along the strand, and in the -winter, a brace or two of ducks can always be bagged on Anastasia -island, but their flavor is not attractive.</p> - -<p>The nearest <i>orange grove</i> is that of Dr. Anderson, on the west side of -the town. In going thither, the path should be chosen leading through -the pleasant orange walk on the grounds of Mr. Buckingham Smith.</p> - -<p>The chief local industry at St. Augustine is the *<i>palmetto work</i>. Hats, -baskets, and boxes are very tastefully plaited from the sun-dried leaves -of the low variety of that plant. Specimens of this handwork make -pleasant mementoes of a visit to this ancient city.</p> - -<p>I now return to Picolata on the St. John. About a mile north of the -landing, on the bank of the river, lived Col. John Lee Williams, the -author of “The Natural and Civil History of Florida,” and “View of West -Florida,” and in many ways conspicuous in the early history of the -State. He died in 1857, and was buried in his own garden. I had the -melancholy satisfaction<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71"></a>{71}</span> of visiting his grave the day after his burial, -having reached Picolata without learning his death. I was told that the -river here had materially altered its course within the memory of those -now living. I am certainly unable to account in any other way for the -total disappearance of the Spanish fort which, a century ago, existed -here. The traveller Bartram describes it as built of coquina stone -brought from Anastasia island. The main work, a square tower, thirty -feet high, with battlements allowing two guns on each side, was -surrounded by a high wall, pierced with loop-holes and a deep exterior -ditch. Even at that time he speaks of it as “very ancient.”</p> - -<p>On the opposite bank of the river was the fort of St. Francis de Poppa. -Its earthworks are still visible, about one mile north of the landing. -From St. Francis de Poppa the old Spanish road led across the province -to St. Marks on the Gulf. Two small Sulphur Springs are found a short -distance from the Picolata landing.</p> - -<p>Fifteen miles above Picolata the steamer stops on the right (west) bank -at</p> - -<h5>PALATKA.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Putnam House, St. John’s House, charges, $3.50 per day. The -Palatka hotels are tolerable, but not so good as those of Jacksonville. -Several boarding houses. A large hotel is projected.</p> - -<p>This was originally a military post in the Indian war of 1836-’40. The -town is built on a sand bluff ten to fifteen feet above the river, a few -inches of shells forming the surface soil. There are 800 or 1,000 -inhabitants, principally engaged in orange culture and lumbering.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72"></a>{72}</span> -Several beautiful orange groves are in the vicinity, and constitute the -only attraction of the place. The streets are sandy, and walking is -difficult. Steamboats run from here direct to Charleston and Savannah, -and also to the lakes of Marion and Alachua counties and up the Oklawaha -river to Lake Griffin. A mail stage runs to Tampa.</p> - -<p>Above Palatka the river narrows, and the banks become as a rule lower -and more swampy. At a point twelve miles above, on the left (east) bank, -Buffalo bluff meets the river, a ridge of loose sandrock surmounted by a -stratum of shells from six to ten feet in thickness. Five miles beyond, -on the same side, is Horse Landing, where a shell and sand mound rises -abruptly about eight feet from the water. This has been carefully -examined by Prof. Jeffries Wyman, and pronounced to have been built by -the ancient possessors of the land. About eighteen miles above Palatka, -on the east bank, is the small town of</p> - -<h5>WELAKA.</h5> - -<p>Large boarding houses were here before the war but were destroyed. A -capacious hotel is in process of erection. Three large sulphur springs -are in the immediate vicinity, which could doubtless be applied to -sanitary purposes. The soil is good, and well adapted to oranges. Eight -miles east of Welaka is *Dunn’s Lake, a beautiful sheet of water twelve -miles long and three wide, abundantly stocked with fish. Its shores -abound in game, and many rich plantations are on and near it. The soil -is unsurpassed by any in Florida, and has always borne a high -reputation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73"></a>{73}</span></p> - -<p>Opposite Welaka, the Oklawaha empties into the St. John. The latter -river at this point is about 500 yards wide. Half a mile above, it -expands to a width of three miles. This is called Little Lake George. -Fort Gates landing is at its southern extremity. Twelve miles above -Welaka is Lake George proper, a sheet of water about eighteen miles in -length, and ten in width. At its southern end a large and fertile island -(about 1900 acres), shuts off the view. It is called Rembrandt’s, or -Drayton’s Island. According to Bartram, there should be remarkable -monuments of the aborigines, mounds, earthworks, and artificial lakes, -on this island. The channel lies to its east, and is quite narrow. At -the extremity of this entrance there is a landing on the eastern shore, -known as Sam’s landing, or Lake George landing. A post office was -located here.</p> - -<p>Several remarkable mineral springs are around this lake, especially on -the western shore. It is an unsafe sea for boats, being exposed to -sudden and violent winds.</p> - -<p>A mile or two from the western shore, the ground rises into high -sand-hills, covered with a dense growth of spruce-pine and blackjack -oak. This is the “Eteniah scrub,” which divides the St. John from the -Oklawaha, and extends for many miles southwardly. It is a dry and -hopeless barren. Sixty-five miles above Palatka, and four miles above -the southern entrance of Lake George, on the left (east) bank of the -river, is the old settlement of</p> - -<h5>VOLUSIA.</h5> - -<p>Good boarding-house by Dr. Langren—price moderate. Little is now seen -from the river but a few<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74"></a>{74}</span> ruinous houses and the marks of a once -extended cultivation in overgrown “old fields,” but the place has a -history worth recording.</p> - -<p>Soon after the cession of the county to the English crown in 1763, Mr. -Denison Rolles, a gentleman of wealth, actuated, it would appear, by a -spirit of philanthropy, proposed to transport large numbers of the -unfortunate women of the London street to this new country, and there -give them a chance to lead a better life. With this object he obtained a -grant of 40,000 acres, and located it in this portion of Florida. The -manor was called Charlottia, from the queen. Several hundred acres were -cleared, a large mansion house erected, a handsome avenue laid out, -which was to reach to St. Augustine, and colonists to the number of -three hundred brought across. But, as so often happens, unexpected -obstacles arose. Supplies failed to come in time, fevers carried off -many, the proprietor was accused of parsimony, and finally the -settlement broke up, and those who survived went to Carolina and -Georgia.</p> - -<p>At this point the river is quite narrow, and both banks are occupied by -fresh-water shell-bluffs, of artificial origin. On that opposite Volusia -stands <i>Fort Butler</i>, a place of some note in the Indian wars. Four -miles above Volusia, is Dexter’s Lake, (ten miles long.) It is a famous -resort for wild fowls in the fall and winter. It is surrounded by -extensive marshes, cypress groves, and hammocks.</p> - -<p>A few miles above Lake Dexter the steamer stops at the small place now -called Hawkinsville, but which formerly bore the much more euphonious -name of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75"></a>{75}</span> brave Seminole warrior, Osceola, (corruption of <i>asse -heholar</i>, sun rising). On the left bank, six miles above, is the -remarkable</p> - -<h5>BLUE SPRING.</h5> - -<p>This is a landing, with post office, but has no hotel. One is (of -course) in contemplation. The *spring is a large and beautiful fountain -of crystal clear water. It forms a basin one-fourth of a mile long, -twenty-five to thirty yards wide, and ten to twenty feet deep. The water -is slightly sulphurous and thermal, the temperature reaching, at times, -75 degrees Fahr. This spot was called by the English, Berrisford, and -was the most southern settlement made by them while in possession of the -country.</p> - -<p>Hunting and fishing in this vicinity are remarkably fine. The back -country is fertile, and some magnificent orange groves are under -cultivation.</p> - -<p>The river now narrows to a width of fifty or sixty yds. Meadows of tall -grass and maiden-cane, interspersed with clumps of lofty and graceful -palms diversify the scene. Through these the stream winds its tortuous -channel for thirty miles. At length the steamboat reaches its -destination at</p> - -<h5>ENTERPRISE,</h5> - -<p class="nind">On Lake Monroe. *Brock House, kept by Mr. J. Brock, the proprietor of -the line of steamers—$3.50 per day. Several boarding-houses in the pine -woods near *Watson’s.</p> - -<p>Several high shell mounds rise on the east shore of the lake, on one of -which the hotel stands. Half a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76"></a>{76}</span> mile south of it is a large sulphur -spring of unusual strength, with a basin twenty-five yards in diameter. -About 150 yards beyond it is a second sulphur spring of less extent, and -near by, also, a source of saline waters. (As yet no provisions are made -for the application of their waters to medicinal purposes).</p> - -<p>Beyond the springs, a hill of sand and shells rises some thirty or forty -feet, surmounted by an old frame building. A luxuriant sweet orange -grove extends along the shore, bearing the finest fruit I ever tasted in -Florida.</p> - -<p>The medicinal waters, the rich fruit, the charming lake, the near pine -woods, and the attractive hunting and fishing at this spot, render it -one of the most eligible for a large sanitary establishment. But its -position should not be directly on the beach, where the dazzling sand -tries the eyes, and the evening dampness is painfully felt.</p> - -<p>Across Lake Monroe, is Fort Mellon, long used as a Government -store-house, and the terminus of one of the military roads which connect -with the interior of the country.</p> - -<p>Fragments of bog iron ore, and oolitic limestone, are picked up on the -shore.</p> - -<p>A small steamboat runs about once a week from Enterprise to Lake Harney -(thirty miles). The channel is narrow and crooked, running through -broad, grassy savannahs and hammocks. The first bluff above Lake Monroe -is called Leneer’s. It is on the left bank.</p> - -<p>Occasional trips are made to Salt Lake, thirty miles above Lake Harney. -Its waters are brackish, rather, I think, from its contiguity to the -sea, than from any salt<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77"></a>{77}</span> springs. It is only seven miles from Indian -river lagoon. Probably this is the only example in the world of a large -river, at a distance of nearly 300 miles from its mouth, flowing within -seven miles of the ocean into which it empties. When the water is high, -small steamers and row-boats have passed beyond Salt Lake, sixty miles -to Lake Washington. No settlements are on the river, however, higher up -than Lake Harney.</p> - -<p>The source of the St. John is unknown. Its head waters probably lose -themselves in vast marshes, from which flow sluggish streams northward -to it, southward into Lake Okeechobee, and westward into the Kissimmee -river. The determination of this geographical point would be -interesting, though perhaps of no great practical value. Yet, one cannot -help feeling astonished that the sources of this river, on which the -first colony north of Mexico was founded, which traverses the oldest -settled State of our Union, and which has been alternately possessed by -three powerful nations, are more completely unknown and unexplored than -those of the Nile or the Niger.</p> - -<h5>NEW SMYRNA.</h5> - -<p>This small settlement of half a dozen houses, is on Musquito lagoon, or -Halifax river. It is reached by a rather rough-traveling weekly stage -from Enterprise, for the immoderate sum of $8.00 a head. Board can be -obtained of Mrs. Sheldon. New Symrna was laid out by Dr. Turnbull, -during the English occupancy of Florida, and hither he brought his -colony of Greeks, Minorcans, and Italians, as I have previously related. -The marks of their faithful industry are still<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78"></a>{78}</span> discernible. Turtle -Mound, on the west bank of the Lagoon, near the town, is one of the most -remarkable shell-mounds, or “Kitchen-middens” in Florida. I have -described it in my “<i>Notes on the Floridian Peninsula</i>,” page 178. There -are a number of other equally curious remains of a similar character in -the vicinity.</p> - -<p>A hundred years ago nearly the whole of the bluff along the river, about -half a mile wide, and nearly forty in length, was one vast orange grove.</p> - -<p>A mail boat leaves here for Indian river every second week.</p> - -<h5>INDIAN RIVER.</h5> - -<p>Persons wishing to visit Indian river for camp hunting, should hire an -open boat, guide, and tent, (if the latter is deemed necessary), at -Jacksonville, and bring them to Enterprise on the steamer. From that -point they can row to Lake Harney in two days, where the boat and tent -can be carried across to Sand Point, on Indian river, on an ox team. -Col. H. F. Titus has a store and dwelling at Sand Point, and -accommodates tourists either with his team or his table. The distance -from the Point to Enterprise is forty miles; to Lake Harney twenty-two -miles, and to Salt Lake seven miles. A hack sometimes runs to Lake -Harney during the winter season (fare $4.00), which delivers the mail at -the Point.</p> - -<p>Indian river is properly a lagoon, or arm of the sea. Its waters contain -about two-thirds as much salt as those of the ocean. In width it varies -from one to four miles. Its western shore is marshy, with hammocks. -About half a mile from the water runs a ridge, averaging<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79"></a>{79}</span> half a mile -across, covered with pines, oak, and palmettos. At places this ridge -approaches to the water’s edge, and offers first-class camping grounds. -It varies in height, one point having been determined at fifty-two feet -above tide level by the United States coast survey. That portion known -as the Indian Garden, is about forty feet high, and was formerly -thoroughly cultivated by the natives and the Spaniards. All the ridge -could readily be made extremely productive. The oranges of Indian river -are equal to the best brought from Havana. A single orchard is said to -return to its owner not less than $20,000 a year.</p> - -<p>Here again the difficulty of access meets one. The Fort Pierce channel, -the deepest of the outlets of Indian river, has but six or seven feet of -water at high tide, and it is so filled with sand and oyster shells that -navigation is difficult for vessels drawing over three feet.</p> - -<h5>SANTA LUCIE,</h5> - -<p class="nind">One hundred miles below Sand Point, is near the outlet. The intervening -shore is very thinly scattered with settlers, but abounds in unequalled -hunting and fishing. Santa Lucie is the county seat of Brevard county. -It boasts a post office, store, and two or three houses. Mr. Frank Smith -is postmaster, and cheerfully gives information or furnishes -accommodation to the few tourists who wander thus far from civilized -life.</p> - -<h5>SANTA LUCIE RIVER</h5> - -<p>Commences twenty miles further south. It, too, is a salt water lagoon. -Formerly a water connection existed between this and Indian river, but -now it is closed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80"></a>{80}</span> Santa Lucie river is principally famous for the -numbers, size, and flavor of its turtles. Fort Capron is on its west -side. At this point there is a post office, kept by Captain James Payne, -who will give any information wished for about the locality.</p> - -<p>The mail along this coast is carried from St. Augustine to Jupiter Inlet -in boats, and thence ninety miles along the beach to Miami on Key -Biscayne Bay by a man on foot. For the whole of this latter distance -there is but one house, and no fresh water is to be had for a horse. The -messenger is allowed four days for his journey. From Miami, which I -shall speak of in a subsequent route, the letters are carried to Key -West by schooner.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81"></a>{81}</span></p> - -<h4><a name="chap-5_JACKSONVILLE_TO_TALLAHASSEE_QUINCY_AND_ST_MARKS" id="chap-5_JACKSONVILLE_TO_TALLAHASSEE_QUINCY_AND_ST_MARKS"></a>5.—JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE, QUINCY AND ST. MARKS.</h4> - -<p>(Tallahassee, and Pensacola & Georgia, and Florida, Atlanta & Gulf -Central railways. Time 14 hours, one train daily.)</p> - -<p>The train leaves Jacksonville following the old military road, and soon -enters open pine woods. The first station is <i>White House</i> (eleven -miles). The next (eight miles) is <i>Baldwin</i>, (Florida House, M. Colding -Proprietor). Here the Florida railway connects for Fernandina, Cedar -Keys, Gainesville, and other points in East Florida.</p> - -<p>Beyond Baldwin the train passes over a swampy country intersected by -numerous creeks flowing northward into the St. Mary’s river, which near -here makes its South Prong far to the south. <i>Sanderson</i>, (eighteen -miles) is an insignificant station. <i>Olustee</i> (ten miles) is a rising -village in the midst of a wide level tract, (no hotel; board at private -houses $1.50 to $2.00 a day.) Ocean Pond, half a mile from the road -(right hand side), is a handsome sheet of water, nearly circular, about -four miles in diameter. It is deep, and offers excellent fishing.</p> - -<h5>LAKE CITY</h5> - -<p class="nind">(twelve miles; two tolerable hotels, $3.00 per day, $15. per week; -newspaper, <i>Lake City Press</i>; telegraph office) is a promising place of -several hundred inhabitants. Three miles south of the city is Alligator -Lake, a body<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82"></a>{82}</span> of water without any visible outlet. In the wet season it -is three or four miles across, but in winter it retires into a deep sink -hole, and the former bottom is transformed into a grassy meadow.</p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Welborn</span></h4> - -<p class="nind">Is the next stopping place (twelve miles. The Griffin House, and several -boarding houses; $1.50 per day, $6.00 per week). It is a prosperous -village of 150 inhabitants. The water is good, and the neighborhood -healthy. Its height above tide water is 200 feet.</p> - -<p>Stages leave Welborn daily for the *<i>White Sulphur Springs</i>, on the -Suwannee river, eight miles north of the station (fare $2.00). These -springs are a favorite resort for persons suffering from rheumatism and -skin diseases. They have been estimated to discharge about three hundred -hogsheads a minute. The *hotel, ($3.00 per day, $12.00 per week, $40.00 -per month,) accommodating seventy-five guests, stands within a few yards -of the Suwannee river, there a pretty stream about fifty yards wide. -There is also a private boarding house near by. Dr. A. W. Knight, of -Maine, resides at the hotel, and will be found an intelligent physician. -There is good fishing in the river, and as the county is but sparsely -settled, small game is abundant. Horses can be had for $2.00. The basin -of the spring is ten feet deep, and 30 feet in diameter; the stream runs -about a hundred yards and then empties into the river.</p> - -<p>Leaving Welborn, the train passes <i>Houston</i>, (five miles), and reaches -<i>Live Oak</i> (six miles.) Here the morning train stops for dinner. A good -table is set by Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83"></a>{83}</span> Conner, who keeps the hotel ($3 per day, $12.50 per -week, $30.00 per month. Boarding, Mrs. M. A. McCleran, $25.00 per month, -Mrs. Goodbread, $1.00 per day, $20.00 per month; Newspaper, <i>Live Oak -Advertizer</i>; Churches, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Baptist.) At this -point a connecting railway diverges north to Lawton, Ga., on the main -line of the Atlantic and Gulf R. R. Live Oak to Savannah, $9.00. Live -Oak has at present about 250 inhabitants, and is a growing place. The -country in the vicinity is the usual limestone soil of Middle Florida, -covered with pine. Peaches flourish very well, and the soil is -reasonably productive.</p> - -<p>The <i>Lower Spring</i>, on the banks of the Suwannee river, eight miles -north of Live Oak, is reached by trains twice daily on the road to -Lawton. Its waters are sulphurous, and it is a favorite resort for -certain classes of invalids. The accommodations are passable.</p> - -<p>Beyond Live Oak, is <i>Ellaville</i>, (thirteen miles, formerly called -Columbus), near the Suwannee. This river is comparatively narrow, and -divides at this point into its east and west branches.</p> - -<p>The next station (fifteen miles) is <i>Madison</i>, the county seat of -Madison county (Madison hotel). The village is half a mile from the -depot, located on a plain bordering on a small lake.</p> - -<p>Beyond this are <i>Goodman</i> station, (fourteen miles), <i>Aucilla</i>, (seven -miles), and the <i>Junction</i> (seven miles). At the latter a railway four -miles in length diverges to</p> - -<h5>MONTICELLO,</h5> - -<p class="nind">The county seat of Jefferson county.</p> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Monticello house, kept by Mrs. Madden, accommodates<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84"></a>{84}</span> about -thirty guests, $2.00 a day, $30.00 to $40.00 a month; Godfrey House. The -village has a population of about 700. It is pleasantly located and -regularly laid out, the court house occupying a square in the center of -the town. There are four churches, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist -and Baptist. There is an academy of nearly 150 pupils, part of the -support of the institution being drawn from the Southern Educational -Fund, provided by the banker, Mr. Peabody. A flourishing colored school -is also in the vicinity. Lake Mickasukie, an extensive body of fresh -water, is about three miles distant.</p> - -<p>The climate of this part of Florida is dry and equable, and the soil the -very best upland pine. Many invalids would find it a very pleasant and -beneficial change from the sea coast or the river side, and immigrants -would do well to visit it. Game and fish are abundant, and the sportsman -need never be at a loss for occupation.</p> - -<p>Leaving the Junction, the train stops at <i>Lloyd’s</i> (nine miles), -<i>Chavies</i>, (six miles), and finally at</p> - -<h5>TALLAHASSEE.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—City Hotel, Hagner house, about $3.00 a day.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—The <i>Floridian and Journal</i>, Democrat, an old established -and ably conducted paper; the <i>Tallahassee Sentinel</i>, Republican, -likewise well edited.</p> - -<p><i>Churches</i> of most denominations.</p> - -<p>The capital of Florida is a city of about 3000 inhabitants, situated on -a commanding eminence in the midst of a rolling and productive country. -The name is probably a compound of the Greek <i>talofah</i>, town, and -<i>hassee</i>, sun. The site was chosen in 1823 by three commissioners,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85"></a>{85}</span> of -whom Colonel John Lee Williams, the subsequent historian of Florida, was -one. In the following year the first house was erected. A pleasant -stream winds along the eastern part of the town, and tumbles over a -limestone ledge in a little cataract. The capitol is a brick building, -stuccoed, with a handsome center reached by a broad flight of steps, and -with spacious wings. It was built by the United States during the -territorial government. It stands in the center of the town surrounded -by a large open square. The usual chambers for the legislative, -judicial, and executive bodies are found here.</p> - -<p>In one of the offices a curious piece of antiquity is preserved. It is -the fragments of a complete suit of ancient steel armour ploughed up in -a field near Monticello. From its appearance it is judged to date from -the sixteenth century,</p> - -<h5>QUINCY</h5> - -<p class="nind">lies twenty-four miles west of Tallahassee, (fare $1.50), the present -terminus of the railroad. (Pop. 1,000).</p> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Willard’s, in the centre of the town, and Wood’s, at the -railroad depot. Both $2.50 per day—$10.00 a week.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding House.</i>—*Mrs. Ann Innes; same prices.</p> - -<p><i>Churches.</i>—Episcopal, Presbyterian, and Methodist.</p> - -<p><i>Newspaper.</i>—The <i>Quincy Monitor</i>, a well conducted Journal.</p> - -<p>The vicinity is a rolling, pine country, with limestone sub-soil. Plenty -of marl is found, suitable for fertilizing. Cotton, corn, tobacco, and -vines are cultivated with success. There is an agricultural association, -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86"></a>{86}</span> which Judge C. H. Dupont is president. Some caves and other natural -curiosities are found in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>Stages run from Quincy to Chatahoochee, tri-weekly; fare $5.00—twenty -miles—an exhorbitant charge. The boarding house in Chatahoochee, $2.00 -per day. The steamer from Columbus and Bainbridge, Ga., touch at -Chatahoochee daily; fare to Apalachicola, $5.00.</p> - -<h5>TALLAHASSEE TO ST. MARKS.</h5> - -<p>By St. Marks Railroad—distance twenty-one miles; time, one hour and -thirty minutes. There is no hotel at St. Marks, and but one boarding -house, that of Mrs. Eliza Barber, $3.50 per day, $12.00 per week. There -are excellent hunting and fishing in this vicinity, and boats can be -hired at very reasonable prices, but horses are scarce. The town is an -old Spanish settlement, and some remains of the ancient fortifications -are still visible in the vicinity. It was first settled under the name -of San Marcos de Apalache, in 1718, by Don Joseph Primo. At one time it -was a port of some promise, but has now fallen into insignificance.</p> - -<p>It is situated at the junction of the St. Marks and Wakulla rivers. The -latter stream is ten miles in length, and takes its rise in the famous -*Wakulla fountain. The name is the Creek word <i>wankulla</i>, (<i>n</i>-nasal) -South. It is a remarkable curiosity, and should be visited by those who -have the time. The most pleasant—and most expensive—means is to hire a -carriage at Tallahassee, from which the spring is seventeen miles -distant.</p> - -<p>The country in the vicinity is low and flat, covered with dense groves -of cypress, liveoak, &c. The spring<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87"></a>{87}</span> is oval in shape, about thirty -yards in diameter, and quite deep. On the eastern side is a rocky ledge, -whence the stream issues. The water is cool, impregnated with lime, and -of a marvellous clearness. Troops of fishes can be seen disporting -themselves in the transparent depths.</p> - -<p>Mr. Wise, of the Coast Survey, found bottom at eighty feet, the lead -being plainly visible at that depth. In the same vicinity the Ocilla, -Wacilla, and Spring Creek Springs are likewise subterranean streams, -which boil up from great depths in fountains of perfect clearness.</p> - -<h5>NEWPORT,</h5> - -<p class="nind">A few miles from St. Marks, on the St. Marks river, was at one time a -place of considerable summer resort, but is now but little visited. Near -by is a natural bridge, over the river, which is esteemed sufficiently -curious to attract occasional visitors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88"></a>{88}</span></p> - -<h4><a name="chap-6_THE_OKLAWAHA_RIVER_AND_THE_SILVER_SPRING" id="chap-6_THE_OKLAWAHA_RIVER_AND_THE_SILVER_SPRING"></a>6. THE OKLAWAHA RIVER AND THE SILVER SPRING.</h4> - -<p>Boats leave Jacksonville and Palatka every Thursday for Lake Griffin. -Time from Palatka to Silver Spring, forty hours; fare, $5.00; distance, -100 miles. The boats are necessarily small, and the accommodations -limited.</p> - -<p>The Oklawaha, so called from one of the seven clans of the Seminoles, -falls into the St. John opposite the town of Welaka. It is only within a -few years that, at a considerable expenditure, it has been rendered -navigable. Its mouth is hardly noticed in ascending the St. John.</p> - -<p>At Welaka, leaving the broad, placid bosom of the former river, the -little steamer enters a narrow, swift and tortuous stream, overhung by -enormous cypresses. Its width is from twenty to forty yards, and its -depth from fifteen to twenty feet. Natural, leafy curtains of vines and -aquatic plants veil its banks.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles from the mouth the boat passes</p> - -<h5>DAVENPORT’S BLUFF,</h5> - -<p class="nind">On the right bank, where there are a few houses. Above this point the -“Narrows” commence and extend eight miles. The river is divided into -numerous branches, separated by wet cypress islands. Dense, monotonous -forests of cypress, curled maple, black and prickly ash, cabbage trees, -and loblolly bays shut in the stream on both sides.</p> - -<p>Seventeen miles above Davenport’s Bluff are the</p> - -<h5>*BLUE SPRINGS.</h5> - -<p>These rise in the river itself about four feet from the right bank. They -are warmer than the river water,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89"></a>{89}</span> and when seen in the sun’s rays have a -dark blue tinge. They have never been analyzed.</p> - -<p>Nine miles above these springs the pine woods abut on the river, and -there is a settlement on the right hand bank called</p> - -<h5>FORT BROOKE.</h5> - -<p>This is within two miles of *Orange Spring, a sulphur spring, with -strongly impregnated waters, but at present without accommodations for -travelers. It is to be hoped that this will not continue, as it is one -of the most admirable of the many medicinal springs of Florida.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles above is</p> - -<h5>PAINE’S LANDING,</h5> - -<p class="nind">near where the waters of Orange Lake drain into the river.</p> - -<p>One and a half miles beyond is a settlement with the pretty name <i>Iola</i>. -A few miles further up “forty foot Bluff” commences, which skirts the -river several miles, here and there separated from it by cypress groves.</p> - -<p>As the steamer ascends, the banks become higher, pines more frequent -along the shore, and cultivated fields more numerous.</p> - -<p>At length, at a distance of 100 miles from the mouth of the river, the -crystal current of *Silver Spring Run, here as large as the river itself -above the junction, pours into the coffee-colored waters of the -Oklawaha. The Run is ten miles in length, with extensive savannas<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90"></a>{90}</span> on -either side, shut in by a distant wall of pines. In the spring months -these savannas are covered with thousands of beautiful and fragrant -flowers.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> The stream is rapid, with an average width of 100 feet, and -a depth of twenty feet. The water is perfectly clear, so that the bottom -is distinctly visible. At places, it is clothed with dark green sedge, -swaying to and fro in the current; at others, ridges of grey sand and -white shells offer a pleasant contrast.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> A good description of Silver Spring is found in Gen. -McCall’s <i>Letters from the Frontier</i>, p. 149, and a more scientific one -in my <i>Notes on the Floridian Peninsula</i>. Appendix I.</p></div> - -<p>The Spring-head forms an oval basin, 150 yards long, 100 feet wide, and -forty feet deep. The water gushes from a large opening about 5 feet -high, and fifteen feet long, under a ledge of limestone at the -north-eastern extremity. It is free from any unpleasant taste, has a -temperature of 73 degrees Fah., and is so transparent that a small coin -can be distinctly seen on the bottom of the deepest part of the basin. -When the basin is seen with the sunbeams falling upon it at a certain -angle their refraction gives the sides and bottom the appearance of -being elevated and tinged with the hues of the rainbow.</p> - -<p>Some observations I took about a mile below the basin, with a three inch -log, at a time when the water was at an average height, show that this -fountain throws out about three hundred million gallons every -twenty-four hours, or more than twenty times the amount consumed daily -by New York city.</p> - -<p>At Silver Spring stages meet the boat for</p> - -<h5>OCALA,</h5> - -<p class="nind">The county seat of Marion co., nine miles distant. The intervening -country is rolling, with pine woods<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91"></a>{91}</span> and hammocks. Ocala is a neat town, -with about 300 inhabitants, two hotels, $1.50 per day, $25.00 per mo.; -several boarding houses; two newspapers, <i>East Florida Banner</i>; livery -stable; physician, Dr. T. P. Gary; several churches; mail three times a -week by stage to Gainesville on the Florida R. R., fare for one -passenger to Gainesville, $6.00; mail stage to Tampa.</p> - -<p>This portion of the State impresses the visitor favorably, and is well -adapted for sugar cane and fruit, but it is cursed with malarial fevers -of severe type. A few miles south of the town are the remains of Fort -King, a military post in the Seminole war, and six miles south, near the -road to Tampa, there is a cave of some size in the limestone rock.</p> - -<p>Returning now to the Oklawaha, and pursuing our journey up that river, -no change in the monotony of the cypress swamp occurs for about sixteen -miles above Silver Spring run. At this distance is the small settlement -Cow Ford. Beyond it the cypress disappears, and a savanna covered with -dense saw grass stretches on either side for one or two miles from the -river. This portion of the river has been but recently cleared and it -was not till early in 1868 that the first steamboats could make their -trips through this part. The chief difficulty encountered was the -floating islands which covered the river, sometimes so thickly that no -sign of its course was visible. They were composed mainly of the curious -aquatic plant the <i>pistia spathulata</i>. These had to be sawed in pieces -and the fragments suffered to float down, or fastened to the shore.</p> - -<p>After passing through these savannas some miles the boat enters Lake -Griffin, a narrow lake about nine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92"></a>{92}</span> miles long. Several thriving -settlements are on its banks, which present a diversity of soil, swamp, -hammock, and pine land.</p> - -<p>Six miles beyond Lake Griffin is Lake Eustis, a smaller body of water, -but more pleasing to the eye. The settlement of Fort Mason is upon its -shores.</p> - -<p>Beyond Lake Eustis a deep channel a mile and a half long called the -Narrows leads to Lake Harris. It is fourteen miles in length and in some -parts seven miles wide. Much of the land upon its banks is of the best -quality. The Oklawaha enters it at its southwestern extremity.</p> - -<h5>LEESBURG,</h5> - -<p class="nind">A small village, passed between Lakes Griffin and Harris, is now the -county seat of Sumter county. About five miles above Lake Harris is Lake -Dunham, the head of navigation of the Oklawaha. A settlement on this -lake bearing the name Oklawaha is the terminus.</p> - -<p>All this country south of Silver Spring Run is laid down quite -incorrectly on all maps but the last edition of Mr. Drew’s “Map of -Florida.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93"></a>{93}</span>”</p> - -<h4><a name="chap-7_FROM_FERNANDINA_TO_CEDAR_KEYS" id="chap-7_FROM_FERNANDINA_TO_CEDAR_KEYS"></a>7. FROM FERNANDINA TO CEDAR KEYS.</h4> - -<p>(Florida Railroad; distance 154 miles; time 11 hours, 30 min. Fare -$11.00.)</p> - -<p>The train, on leaving Fernandina, runs southward on Amelia Island, for -about three miles, through a forest of pine and live oak with an -undergrowth of myrtle and palmetto. The road then turns westward and -crosses the salt marshes, and a narrow arm of the sea, the latter about -twenty-five yards wide, which separate the island from the main. Beyond -these, it enters the low pine lands of Nassau county. They are -unproductive, thinly inhabited, and to the traveler extremely -monotonous. The first station is <i>Callahan</i> (27 miles); the next -<i>Baldwin</i> (Florida House), where a connection is made with the Pensacola -and Georgia Railway for Tallahassee, Jacksonville, etc.</p> - -<p>The country gradually rises and improves in quality of soil beyond this -point, but houses continue sparse. The station next beyond is Trail -Ridge (15 miles). Here the mail is delivered for Middleburg on Black -Creek, twelve miles east. (See Route up the St. John.)</p> - -<p>Much of the land is swampy, and the road crosses a number of small water -courses, tributaries of Black Creek. The traveller is now approaching -the Lake country of Central Florida. The succeeding small station, -<i>Waldo</i>, (22 miles) is in the midst of a group of ponds, lakes and -extensive swamps.</p> - -<p>They are known as the Ettini ponds. They are separated by sand hills and -stretches of fertile low-lands.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles beyond Waldo is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94"></a>{94}</span></p> - -<h5>GAINESVILLE.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—*Exchange hotel, by Messrs. Barnes & Shemwell; the Magnolia -house; the Bevill house; charges, $2.50 per day.</p> - -<p><i>Newspaper.</i>—The <i>New Era</i>, (Democrat).</p> - -<p><i>Two Livery Stables.</i></p> - -<p><i>Churches.</i>—Methodist, Baptist, and Presbyterian.</p> - -<p>Gainesville (pop. 1500) is situated in one of the most fertile regions -of Florida. It is on a portion of the old “Arredondo Grant,” which -embraced the larger part of the rich Alachua plains, and has been -called, not without reason, the garden of the State. The soil is a sandy -loam, resting on limestone. The latter is friable, and easily eroded by -water. The rains frequently thus undermine the soil, which suddenly -gives way, forming so-called “sinks” and “pot holes,” common throughout -Alachua and the neighboring counties. One of the largest is the -*<i>Devil’s Wash Pot</i>, 200 feet in depth, into which three small streams -plunge by a series of leaps. Payne’s Prairie, a rich, level tract, -twelve miles in length, enclosing a pretty lake, commences three miles -south of Gainesville.</p> - -<p>The famous *<i>Orange Grove</i> commences about twelve miles south of -Gainesville, and extends nearly around Orange Lake. It is probably the -largest natural orange grove in the world, and in the spring when the -trees are in blossom, perfumes the whole region.</p> - -<p>The Natural Bridge over the Santa Fe river is most readily approached -from Gainesville, from which it is about twenty-four miles distant, west -of north. The road passes through Newnansville, (the Wilson House,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95"></a>{95}</span> -widow Frier’s boarding house, both $2.25 per day,) a place of 200 -inhabitants. Near this place is Warren’s Cave, a curiosity of local -note. The Natural Bridge marks, in fact, the spot where the river enters -an underground channel for three miles of its course. Close to the -bridge are the Wellington Springs, a sulphurous source of considerable -magnitude, but with no accommodations.</p> - -<p>A mail stage with very limited provisions for passengers, leaves -Gainesville for Micanopy, Ocala, and Tampa, three times a week. -Travelers arriving at Gainesville, on their way to the upper St. John, -will do well to hire a private conveyance and go by Payne’s prairie and -the Orange Grove to Ocala (thirty-eight miles) and the Silver Spring -whence they can take the boats on the Oklawaha. (See page 89.) This trip -will show them the most fertile portion of central Florida.</p> - -<p>Leaving Gainesville, the train passed over a high, rolling, limestone -country, through open forests of pine, hickory, blackjack, and other -hardwood trees. The first station, Archer, fifteen miles, (one hotel, -$3.00 per day,) is in the midst of such scenery. About ten miles beyond -it the surface descends, and cypress and hammock become more frequent.</p> - -<p>The next station, Otter Creek, twenty-two miles, is on the western -border of the dense Gulf hammock, the part of it which lies in this -vicinity being styled the Devil’s hammock.</p> - -<p>As it approaches the Gulf, the road crosses a number of small creeks and -over several arms of the sea, passing from island to island until it -reaches Cedar Key<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96"></a>{96}</span> (nineteen miles), where is the terminus. (*Hotel kept -by Mr. Willard, $3.00 per day.)</p> - -<p>The population of the key is about 400, chiefly engaged in lumbering. -Excellent hunting and fishing can be had in the vicinity, and many -pretty shells and sea-mosses are found along the shore. A hard sand -beach, half a mile in length, is a favorite promenade. There are no -horses on the island, but boats, here the only means of transportation, -can be hired from $3.00 to $5.00 a day. Remains of the former Indian -occupants, such as shell mounds, stone axes, arrowheads, pottery, etc., -are very abundant.</p> - -<p>Steamers touch at Cedar Keys every day or two, providing ready -communication with the principal points on the Gulf. The fares are about -as follows: to Tampa, $10.00; Key West, $20.00; Havana, $30.00; St. -Marks, $10.00; Apalachicola, $20.00; Pensacola, $30.00; New Orleans, -$40.00; Mobile, $20.00.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97"></a>{97}</span></p> - -<h4><a name="chap-8_KEY_WEST_THE_FLORIDA_KEYS_AND_THE_GULF_COAST" id="chap-8_KEY_WEST_THE_FLORIDA_KEYS_AND_THE_GULF_COAST"></a>8. KEY WEST—THE FLORIDA KEYS AND THE GULF COAST.</h4> - -<h5>KEY WEST.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—*Russell House, George Phillips, proprietor, on Duval St.; -Florida House, both $2.50 per day, $40.00 to $60.00 per month.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding-Houses.</i>—John Dixon, Whitehead Street; Mrs. E. Armbrister, -Duval Street; Mrs. Clarke; from $8.00 to $15.00 per week.</p> - -<p><i>Telegraph</i> to Havana and the north; office in Naval depot building. -Post Office opposite the Russell House.</p> - -<p><i>Churches.</i>—Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Baptist, and Methodist.</p> - -<p><i>Bookseller.</i>—R. P. Campbell, Duval Street, (northern weeklies, -Brinton’s <i>Guide-Book</i>).</p> - -<p><i>Newspaper.</i>—Key West <i>Dispatch</i>, weekly, well edited. The Key West -Literary Association has a reading-room.</p> - -<p><i>Steamship Lines.</i>—The Baltimore, Havana, and New Orleans line, -semi-monthly, to Baltimore, $50.00, to Havana $10.00, to New Orleans -$40.00. The C. H. Mallory & Co., line from New York to Galveston and New -Orleans, semi-weekly; to New York $40.00, to Galveston $40.00. The -Spofford and Tilson line from New York to Galveston and New Orleans, -semi-weekly; to New York $40.00, to New Orleans $40.00. The Alliance, -United States mail line, to Fort Jefferson, Tampa, Cedar Keys, St. -Marks, Apalachicola, Pensacola, and Mobile, the line for the west coast -of Florida.</p> - -<p>The name Key West is a corruption of the Spanish <i>Cayo Hueso</i>, Bone Key, -the latter word being of Indian origin (Arawack, <i>Kairi</i>, island). -Formerly it was called Thompson’s island by the English. It is about -six<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98"></a>{98}</span> miles long and one mile wide, and is formed of an oolitic coralline -limestone. It is the highest point of the Florida Keys, yet of such -insignificant altitude that the most elevated point is only fifteen feet -above the sea level. The soil is thin, swampy and but little cultivated. -It produces, however, a thick jungle-like growth of mangroves, cacti, -tamarinds, mastics, gum elemi, and similar tropical bushes from twelve -to fifteen feet in height. There is no fresh water except that furnished -by the rains. Wells are dug in different parts, and reach water at the -depth of a few feet, but brackish and unpalatable. So closely, indeed, -are these wells in connection with the surrounding ocean, that the water -rises and falls in them as the tides do on the shore, but following -after an interval of about three hours.</p> - -<p>The town is in latitude 24° 33´. It was incorporated in 1829. The -present population is 4,800, of which 1500 are colored. It is situated -on the northern part of the western end of the island, and has an -excellent harbor. Duval is the principal street. Rows of cocoanut palms -line some of the principal avenues, presenting a very picturesque -appearance. A fine view of the harbor and town can be had from the -cupola of Mr. Charles Tilt, agent of the Baltimore line of steamers.</p> - -<p>Many of the residences are neat and attractive. The lower part of the -town is known as Conch town. Its inhabitants are called Conches, and are -principally engaged in “wrecking,” that is, relieving and rescuing the -numerous vessels which are annually cast away or driven ashore on the -treacherous Florida reef. The Conches are of English descent, their -fathers having migrated from the Bahamas. In spite of the dubious -reputation<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99"></a>{99}</span> which they have acquired, they are a hard working and -sufficiently honest set, and carry on their perilous occupation if not -quite for the sake of humanity, yet content with a just salvage. Their -favorite vessels are sloops of ten to forty tons, which they manage with -extraordinary skill.</p> - -<p>Quite a number of Spaniards are domesticated in Key West. The dark eyes, -rich tresses, graceful forms, and delicate feet of the ladies frequently -greet the eye. Havana is only eighty-four miles distant, with almost -daily communication.</p> - -<p>Fine oranges, coacoanuts, alligator pears, cigars and other good things -for which the Pearl of the Antilles is famous can readily be obtained. -The favorite social drink is champerou, a compound of curacoa, eggs, -Jamaica spirits and other ingredients. Fish are abundant and finely -flavored. A variety of sardine has been found in the waters near, and -has been used commercially to a limited extent.</p> - -<p>The principal industries are “sponging” and “turtling.” The sponges are -collected along the reef and shores of the peninsula. From December, -1868, to March, 1869, 14,000 pounds were received by one merchant. They -are all, however, of inferior quality.</p> - -<p>The turtles are of four varieties. The green turtle is the most highly -prized as food. They are sometimes enormous in size, weighing many -hundred pounds. The hawke-bill turtle is the variety from which -“tortoise shell” for combs, etc., is obtained. The loggerhead and duck -bill are less esteemed.</p> - -<p>Extensive salt works have long been in operation here. They produce -annually about 30,000 bushels of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> salt by solar evaporation. Corals and -shells of unusual beauty are found among the keys, and can be bought for -a trifling amount. Handsome canes made of the Florida crab-tree, are -also to be purchased.</p> - -<p>Key West is a U. S. naval station for supplying vessels with coal, -provisions, etc. There is a Naval Hospital near the town, 100 feet in -length, and several other extensive public buildings. As in a military -point of view the point is deemed of great importance in protecting our -gulf coast, the general government has gone to large expense in -fortifying it. Fort Taylor, at the entrance of the harbor, is still in -process of construction. When completed, it will mount 200 heavy guns. -Besides it there are two large batteries, one on the extreme north part -of the island, and one midway between it and Fort Taylor. The Barracks -are usually occupied by a company of the 5th U. S. Artillery.</p> - -<p>The climate of Key West is the warmest and the most equable in the -United States. Even in winter the south winds are frequently oppressive -and debilitating. From five to ten “northers” occur every winter, and -though they are not agreeable on account of the violence of the wind, -they do not reduce the temperature below 40 degrees Fahr.</p> - -<p>Though the proximity of the Gulf Stream renders the air very moist, -mists and fogs are extremely rare, owing to the equability of the -temperature, and though the hygrometer shows that the air is constantly -loaded with moisture, this same equability allows the moon and stars to -shine with a rare and glorious brilliancy, such as we see elsewhere on -dry and elevated plateaux.</p> - -<p>Another effect of the Gulf Stream may also be noted.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> Every evening, -shortly after sunset, a cloud-bank rises along the southern horizon in -massive, irregular fleeces, dark below and silver gilt above by the rays -of the departing sun. This is the cloud-bank over the Gulf Stream, whose -vast current of heated waters is rushing silently along, some twelve -miles off.</p> - -<h5>DRY TORTUGAS. FORT JEFFERSON.</h5> - -<p>Two steamers of the Alliance line from Key West, touch monthly at the -Tortugas. Also, two schooners ply between the two points.</p> - -<p>The Dry Tortugas (Sp. Turtle islands), are a group of small coral -islands, about a score in number, fifty miles west of Key West. Garden -Key is the main island, upon which Fort Jefferson is situated. It is -about one mile in circumference, comprising nine acres of ground. The -fort is an irregular hexagonal structure, of double circular walls of -brick and earth, with a foundation of coral rock. It was commenced in -1846. The entrance is through a handsome and massive *<i>sallyport</i>. -Inside, on the right, are the lighthouse and keeper’s residence.</p> - -<p>Between the walls the barracks and officers’ quarters are situated. A -well-kept walk of cement leads from the sallyport to the latter. Within -the inner wall is an open space of about fifteen acres, well set in -Bermuda grass, and dotted here and there with cocoanut palms.</p> - -<p>There is a good library in the fort. Service every Sunday by an army -chaplain.</p> - -<p>Nearly a thousand prisoners were confined here during the war. At one -time the yellow fever carried<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> off great numbers of them. Sand Key, a -barren sand bank of twenty-five acres, is used as a cemetery. Loggerhead -Key, some miles west, has a tall and symmetrical lighthouse. Bird Key is -a favorite resort of turtles.</p> - -<h5>MIAMI AND KEY BISCAYNE BAY.</h5> - -<p><i>Mail Schooner</i> on the 1st and 15th of every month from Key West. -Accommodations poor and insufficient. No public house, and few settlers -at Miami.</p> - -<p>Undoubtedly the finest winter climate in the United States, both in -point of temperature and health, is to be found on the south-eastern -coast of Florida. It is earnestly to be hoped, for the sake of invalids, -that accommodations along the shore at Key Biscayne and at the mouth of -the Miami, will, before long, be provided, and that a weekly or -semi-weekly steamer be run from Key West thither. In the concluding -chapters of this book I shall give in detail my reasons for thinking so -highly of that locality, and shall here describe it with some -minuteness. One strong argument in its favor I insert here. While it is -the very <i>best</i>, it could also be made the <i>most accessible</i> part of the -sea coast of Florida, as the whole journey from the north or north-west -could be made by water; the only transhipment being at Key West.</p> - -<p>On leaving the harbor the schooner takes a southerly course, passing on -the left numbers of low keys covered with dense mangrove bushes, quite -concealing their shores. Here and there are gleaming ridges of white -rocks, over which the breakers tumble in glittering sheets of foam. This -is a portion of the dreaded reef,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> on which unnumbered vessels have met -their destruction. These naked islets, uninhabited and surrounded by the -interminable moan of the ocean, impressed with an undefined sense of -sadness the early Spanish mariners. They therefore called them Los -Martires (the Martyrs); “and well they deserve the name,” says the old -chronicler, “for many a man, since then, has met a painful death upon -them.” (Herrera, <i>Historia de las Indias. Dec. I, Lib. IX, cap. X</i>.)</p> - -<p>These are kept within sight until the Cape Florida light comes into -view, (latitude 25 degrees, 39 minutes, 56 seconds,) on the extreme -southern point of Key Biscayne. On rounding the light, Key Biscayne Bay -is entered. This is a body of water about twenty-five miles long, and -from two to six miles broad. The settlement of Miami is on the river of -that name, a clear, beautiful stream, fringed with mangrove, and marked -for some distance with a long line of coacoanut trees, laden with their -large, green fruit. At its mouth it is about a hundred yards wide, with -an average depth of six feet. There are about a dozen settlers on Key -Biscayne Bay. Lieutenant Governor Gleason resides at Miami, and will -entertain travelers to the extent that he can.</p> - -<p>At this part of the coast, a ridge of loose coralline limestone about -four miles in width, and from ten to twenty-five feet in height, extends -along the shore between the bay and the Everglades. No ponds of stagnant -water are near, and the soil, though not very rich, is a loose, sandy -loam, exceedingly well adapted for garden vegetables and fruit. Arrow -root (<i>Maranta arundinacea</i>) and the koonta, an allied plant, grow in -great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> abundance, and are highly prized by the Indians as food.</p> - -<p>Arch creek empties into Key Biscayne bay ten miles north of the Miami -river. It receives its name from a *natural arch of limestone rock, -fifty feet wide, which spans the waters of the stream as they flow -through a channel a number of feet below.</p> - -<p>The *<i>Punch bowl</i> is the name given by the sailors to a curious natural -well about one mile south of the mouth of the Miami and close to the -shore. It is always filled with good sweet water and is greatly resorted -to on that account.</p> - -<p>Game, as deer, bear, turkeys, etc., is very abundant in the pine woods -which extend along the coast, and fish swarm in countless numbers in the -bay. Turtle of the finest kinds can be caught on the islets off shore. -Oysters are plentiful, but smaller and not so well flavored as on the -gulf coast.</p> - -<p>When it is remembered that in addition to these desirable advantages, -the temperature of this favored spot is so equable that it does not vary -in some years more than 25°, its advantages as a resort for invalids -will be evident.</p> - -<p>The abundance of game on the shore ridge from Cape Sable to the Miami, -led it to be chosen as a favorite spot of resort by the Indians, and it -is still known distinctively as the “Hunting Grounds.” Its character is -quite uniform. Near the shore is a breadth of rolling prairie land at -points quite narrow, at others six miles in width, and elevated from -three to eight or ten feet above high water. This is backed by a ridge -about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span> one quarter of a mile wide, covered with pines and black -mangroves.</p> - -<p>Most of the keys are cut by deep lagoons, and the whole of their -surfaces are under water at high tide. Only a few have any soil fit for -vegetables, and settlements upon them are very scarce. Old and New -Matacumba have springs of fresh water, and were one of the last resorts -of the ancient Caloosa Indians. Dove and Tea Table Keys are said to have -the richest soil, “the best I have seen in Florida,” says Mr. Wainright, -of the U. S. Coast Survey.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span></p> - -<h4><a name="chap-9_THE_WESTERN_COAST" id="chap-9_THE_WESTERN_COAST"></a>9. THE WESTERN COAST.</h4> - -<p>Steamers from Key West touch at all the principal points on the western -or Gulf coast of the peninsula.</p> - -<p>This coast is very much the same in character throughout its whole -extent. It is an almost continuous belt of marsh, cut by innumerable -creeks and bayous, extending from five to fifteen miles into the -interior. Thousands of small islands covered with stunted mangroves, and -wholly or in part overflowed at high water, conceal the main land. The -channels between them are usually shallow, with mud bottoms, and in -parts, the slope of the shore is so gradual that low water exposes a mud -flat one to two miles wide.</p> - -<p>From Key West to St. Marks there are two tides daily, in the twenty-four -(lunar) hours, one, the highest, rising from one foot to one foot six -inches. From St. Marks to the Mississippi the smaller tide disappears, -so there remains but one daily.</p> - -<p>Immediately north of Cape Sable, which shows from the sea a sand-beach -three feet high, are the Thousand Isles, some few of which were formerly -cultivated by Spanish planters. Charlotte Harbor, between latitude 26 -degrees 30 seconds and 27 degrees, is entered by the Boca Grande, which -has fifteen feet of water at low tide. The bay itself has a depth of -three or four fathoms. At its southern extremity it receives the waters -of Caloosahatchee river. This stream has a depth of twelve feet for -thirty-five or forty miles, and with a little expense could be rendered -navigable for steamboats. The lower part of its course is through -swamps, but about twenty-five miles up, it flows through high lands -covered with palms, oak, pine, and palmetto.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span></p> - -<p>Between Charlotte Harbor and Sarasota Bay the shore forms a straight -line of white sand beach several feet in height, and covered with pine -and cypress. Sarasota Bay is about twenty miles long, and one to four -broad, dotted with numerous mangrove islets. Its depth is about eight -feet.</p> - -<p>North of Tampa bay are several small rivers, the Pithlo-chas-kotee, or -boat-building river, the Chassahowitzka, the Crystal, the Homosassa, and -the Wethlocco-chee or Withlacooche. Their banks are low and marshy, -producing little of value except a fine variety of cedar. Much of this -is exported to France and England for the manufacture of lead pencils.</p> - -<p>In the coves where the mud is not too deep oyster banks are numerous, -and on almost every little stream the traveler finds the shell heaps -left by the aborigines of the country. One of these of unusual size and -interest, on the Crystal River, I have described in the Annual Report of -the Smithsonian Institution for 1866, p. 356.</p> - -<p>Sponge reefs also occur at various parts of the coast and many small -vessels are employed in collecting these animals and drying them for the -market.</p> - -<p>The low lands along the coast are often rich, but they are unhealthy. -The United States Army Medical Reports pronounce them the most unhealthy -parts of the peninsula. This, however, does not apply to the sandy pine -tracts south of Tampa Bay, many of which still bear the imprint of an -extended cultivation in some past time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span></p> - -<h5>TAMPA.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—*Florida House, Orange Grove Hotel, both $2.00 per day, -$35.00 to $40.00 per month.</p> - -<p><i>Boarding Houses.</i>—Several in number, from $5.00 to $10.00 per week.</p> - -<p><i>Mails.</i>—By steamer, twice weekly; to Brookville, weekly.</p> - -<p><i>Churches.</i>—Baptist, Methodist, Roman Catholic.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—<i>The True Southerner</i>, republican; the <i>Florida -Peninsular</i>, democratic, both weekly.</p> - -<p><i>Sailboats and Horses</i>, about $1.00 per day.</p> - -<p>Tampa is a town of 600 inhabitants, on the left (east) bank of -Hillsborough river, where it empties into Hillsborough bay. It is thirty -miles from the light house at the entrance of the harbor. The soil is -poor, covered chiefly with pine, red oak and palmettos.</p> - -<p>For many years this has been an important military station. Fort Brooke, -commenced 1823, stands on the reservation near the town, and additional -barracks have recently been erected. Several companies of infantry are -here most of the time.</p> - -<p>Excellent hunting and fishing can be had in the vicinity of Tampa. The -oysters in the bay are as large, abundant and finely flavored as -anywhere on the Gulf coast. The orange groves are flourishing and many -of the inhabitants raise garden vegetables. Old army officers have -learned to regard it as one of the best stations in the United States -for providing the mess.</p> - -<p>The land in the vicinity is level. A large Indian mound, nearly twenty -feet high, stands upon the reservation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> close to the town. Last winter -(1869) this was opened by a curiosity seeker, and the usual contents of -Florida mounds—bones, pottery, ornaments, etc.—taken out. Beautiful -specimens of chalcedony and fortification agate, well known in -mineralogical cabinets, are found along the shore, washed out from the -marl. Above Tampa, on the Hillsborough river, is a Sulphur Spring thirty -feet in diameter and twelve feet deep. At the rapids of the Hillsborough -river, near the spring, a dark bluish siliceous rock, supposed to be -eocene, crops out.</p> - -<h5>MANATEE</h5> - -<p class="nind">is a small town six miles from the mouth of Manatee river, near the -southern entrance of Tampa Bay. There is no hotel, but accommodations -can be had with Judge Gates, or other residents. Fine orange groves and -sugar plantations are near here. Manatee is a shallow, sluggish stream, -two miles wide, with salt water. A weekly mail boat with Tampa is the -only regular communication. Historically, Tampa, or Espiritu Santo Bay, -as the Spaniards named it, is interesting as the landing place of -Hernando de Soto in May, 1539. The precise spot where his soldiers -disembarked cannot now be decided. Theodore Irving (<i>Conquest of -Florida, p. 58</i>) places it immediately in the village of Tampa, at the -extreme head of Hillsborough Bay. Buckingham Smith, whose studies of the -old Spanish maps and records of Florida have been most profound, lays it -down at the entrance of Tampa Bay, on the south bank, between Manatee -river and the Gulf Shore. But he adds: “could I utterly disregard the -authority of old maps,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> and an opinion sanctioned by a long succession -of writers, I should judge the landing-place of Soto to be far southward -of Tampa.”</p> - -<p>After a short stay, the steamer leaves Tampa and heads for Cedar Keys, -distant one hundred and sixty miles; fare $10.00; time twenty-four -hours. This has already been described. The next point is St. Marks, the -terminus of the Tallahassee railroad, which has already been spoken of -in a previous route. (Distance 100 miles from Cedar Keys to St. Marks; -fare $10.00.) The steamer next stops at</p> - -<h5>APALACHICOLA,</h5> - -<p class="nind">distant sixty miles from St. Marks. This town, once a place of -considerable trade, exporting a hundred thousand bales of cotton a year, -is now extremely dull. It has a good harbor, and being at the mouth of -the Chattahoochee river, has capacities not yet developed. Steamers run -from here to Bainbridge, Georgia, and all stations on the river.</p> - -<p>After leaving Apalachicola the steamer heads southward, the long, low -island, St. George’s, being visible on the left, and St. Vincent’s -island and the main land on the right. Once into the Gulf, no more land -is seen until the well-fortified entrance to Pensacola harbor comes in -sight. The town of Warrenton, where the United States navy yard is -situated, is first seen. It is a small place.</p> - -<h5>PENSACOLA.</h5> - -<p>No hotel. Boarding houses by Mrs. Davis, on the beach, near the depot; -Mrs. Knapp, on Intendencia<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> street; Mrs. Williams, on Palafox, the -principal street. Mr. Hoffman, at the depot, has good accommodations for -a limited number. Gentlemen can obtain lodging-rooms above Giovanni’s -confectionary store, on Palafox street, and meals at the City -Restaurant, opposite the square. The charge at the boarding houses is -$3.00 per day, $15.00 per week.</p> - -<p>A daily mail and telegraph office are now there. Baths and livery -stables convenient.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—The Pensacola <i>Observer</i>, tri-weekly; the West Florida -<i>Commercial</i>, weekly. Reading room for gentlemen at the “Gem” -restaurant.</p> - -<p><i>Churches.</i>—Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Methodist.</p> - -<p><i>Physicians.</i>—Drs. Hargis, Lee.</p> - -<p>Pensacola has about 2000 inhabitants, one-third of whom are colored. The -bay was discovered in 1559, by Don Tristan de Luna y Arellana, who named -it Santa Maria de Galve. He landed with 1500 men and a number of women -and children, intending to establish a permanent colony. The -neighborhood, however, proved barren, the ships were wrecked, and after -two years the few who survived returned to Mexico. In 1696, Don Andres -de Arriola made another attempt with more success. He constructed a fort -at the entrance of the harbor, and received the title Governor of -Pensacola, the name being taken from a small native tribe called -Pensocolos, who dwelt in the vicinity. The name is Choctaw, and means -“Hairy People.” In 1719, it was captured by the French, under M. de -Serigny, who lost and regained it within the year. In 1721, it reverted -to Spain, and some attempt was made by that power to lay out a city.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span></p> - -<p>A few old Spanish buildings yet stand, but have nothing about them -worthy of note. Half a mile north of the bay is the site of Fort St. -Michael, a commanding eminence, with a fine view of the bay and navy -yard. About six hundred yards north of St. Michael’s, stood Fort St. -Bernard, known as <i>el sombrero</i>, from its resemblance to a hat. Both -these edifices are completely demolished, and a few stones, potsherds, -and pieces of iron are all that remain to mark their positions.</p> - -<p>The climate of Pensacola is bracing in winter, but not at all suited to -consumptives. All such should avoid it, as they almost invariably grow -worse. The pine lands, twenty or thirty miles north of the city, are -much more favorable to such patients.</p> - -<p>A railroad is just finished from Pensacola to Montgomery, Ala., which -connects this seaport with Louisville and the northern States east of -the Mississippi. Doubtless this will give the old town quite an impetus -in growth. A pamphlet setting forth its advantages as a seaport and -place of residence was published in July of the present year (1869) by -A. C. Blount, President of the railroad.</p> - -<h5>MILTON</h5> - -<p>Is a pleasant town of about a thousand inhabitants, thirty miles from -Pensacola.</p> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—Eagle and City Hotel, $2.25 a day in each.</p> - -<p>A daily steamboat line connects the two towns (fare $2) and a tri-weekly -line of hacks runs from Milton to Poland, Ala., en the Montgomery & -Mobile R. R., thirty-three miles—fare $5.</p> - -<p>After leaving Pensacola, the next stopping place of the steamer is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span></p> - -<h5>MOBILE.</h5> - -<p><i>Hotels.</i>—The Battle House, corner Royal and St. Francis streets, $4.00 -per day, an old established and well known house; *Gulf City Hotel, -corner Water and Conti streets, $3 per day, $17.50 per week, $65 per -month, new and good; Roper House, corner Royal and St. Michael streets, -same price as Gulf City Hotel, except $50 per month; Girard House, 123 -Dauphin street, $2.50 per day; Goff House, Conti street, not first -class.</p> - -<p><i>Post Office.</i>—In Custom House, opposite the Battle House. Telegraph -and Express offices near by.</p> - -<p><i>Bath Booms.</i>—In Battle House, 50 cents; in Gulf City Hotel, 35 cents, -and in a barber shop on St. Francis street, opposite the ladies entrance -to the Battle House, 35 cents.</p> - -<p><i>Restaurant.</i>—Jenkins’, on Royal street, opposite the Battle House, is -the best.</p> - -<p><i>Bookseller.</i>—Putnam & Co., 52 Dauphin street.</p> - -<p><i>Livery Stable.</i>—Hayden & Meenan, 39 Royal street, near the Roper -House; carriage and driver, for half a day, $8.00; buggy, for half a -day, $5.</p> - -<p><i>Newspapers.</i>—The <i>Daily Register</i>; the <i>Daily Tribune</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Physician.</i>—Dr. T. S. Scales, 128 Dauphin street.</p> - -<p><i>Omnibusses</i> meet the boats and cars, and street cars run on the -principal streets—fare five cents and ten cents.</p> - -<p><i>Theaters.</i>—Mobile Theater, Variety Theater, both on Royal street.</p> - -<p>The city (population 35,000) is situated about thirty miles from the -Gulf of Mexico, on the west side of Mobile Bay. The bay is shallow and -the channel tortuous.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> The rivals of the city say that the entrance is -filling up, and will, before many generations, become little more than a -marsh. The site of the town is on a sandy plain, elevated about fifteen -feet above high tide, and is, consequently, well drained. The houses -extend along the bay nearly three miles.</p> - -<p>The city was founded by the French at the commencement of the last -century, but remained an insignificant post until 1819, when it was -incorporated. Since then it has grown with rapidity, and is now one of -the most active cotton ports in the United States. Many of the buildings -are handsome, and though the city suffered considerably during the war, -it is rapidly regaining its former wealth. An excellent Directory has -been published by the Southern Publishing Co.</p> - -<p>The Custom House is the finest public edifice. It is constructed of -marble.</p> - -<p>There is a public square in a central locality, and the abundance of -hedges of the Cherokee Rose, a flowering evergreen, gives the streets a -pleasant appearance.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PART_III" id="PART_III"></a>PART III.<br /><br /> -CHAPTERS TO INVALIDS.</h2> - -<h3><a name="CHAP_1_WHEN_IS_A_CHANGE_OF_CLIMATE_ADVISABLE" id="CHAP_1_WHEN_IS_A_CHANGE_OF_CLIMATE_ADVISABLE"></a>CHAP. 1.—WHEN IS A CHANGE OF CLIMATE ADVISABLE?</h3> - -<p>In these days when the slow coach of our fathers has long been -discarded, and steam and lightning are our draught horses, the -advantages to health of a change of climate should be considered by -every one. It is an easy, a pleasant, and a sure remedy in many a -painful disorder. Need I fortify such an assertion by the dicta of high -authorities? One is enough. “It would be difficult,” says Sir James -Clark, M.D., whose name is familiar to every physician in connection -with this very question, “to point out the chronic complaint, or even -the disordered state of health which is not benefitted by a timely and -judicious change of climate.”</p> - -<p>Let me run over this catalogue of maladies and specify some in which -“fresh fields and pastures new” are of especial value. All anticipate -the first I mention—pulmonary consumption,—that dreaded scourge which -year by year destroys more than did the cholera in its most fatal -epidemics. Even those who lay no claim to medical knowledge are well -aware how often the consumptive prolongs and saves his life by a timely -change of air; they are not aware—few doctors with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> their diplomas are -aware—how much oftener this fortunate result would be obtained were the -change made with judgment, and the invalid to lend his own energies in -this battle for life which his constitution is waging against disease. -How to make this change with judgment, and how to employ these energies, -these chapters are intended to inform him.</p> - -<p>The watchword of the battle is: <i>Courage</i>. It is, indeed, not rare to -see those who should have been left at home to die surrounded by home -comforts, exiled by their wearied physician, or dragged by the ignorant -solicitude of friends, late in their disease, to some strange land, -there to meet their inevitable fate, deprived of the little luxuries so -useful to them, served by unsympathizing strangers, far from the old, -familiar faces. There are others who go early enough, and are earnest in -their efforts to husband their flagging powers. But they have chosen a -climate ill-adapted to the form of their complaint, they know not the -precautions they should take, they have omitted provisions of essential -value, in fine, they “die of medicable wounds.”</p> - -<p>These examples should not discourage others. The medical science of -to-day gives its strongest endorsement to this maxim: <i>Consumption is -cureable</i>, <span class="smcap">IF TAKEN IN ITS EARLY STAGES</span>. And in its cure, change of -climate is an essential element. Nor does science hesitate to go -farther. Even when the lungs are decidedly affected, even when the -practised ear of the physician detects that ominous gurgling sound in -the chest which reveals the presence of a cavity in the lungs, it still -says <i>Hope</i>. We know that even then there is a good chance for life in -many cases. Often the disease has<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> invaded but a very circumscribed -portion of lung and all the remainder is healthy; sometimes having gone -thus far it seems to have spent its malignant powers, and rests for -years, or disappears altogether; often under the genial influence of -appropriate climate and regimen, the ulcer heals and health is restored.</p> - -<p>Bronchitis is another complaint which calls for change of air. There are -persons who contract a cough regularly at the beginning of every winter, -which disappears only with the warm spring days. They hawk, and -expectorate, and have pains in the breast, and a sore and tickling -throat all the cold months. This is bronchitis, chronic bronchitis. -Clergymen are very liable to it from neglect of precautions in using the -voice. It is quite common among elderly people, and often paves the way -for their final illness. In young persons it portends consumption. -Nothing so effectually dispels it as a winter in a warm climate. I speak -now from my own experience.</p> - -<p>There is a disease not less common, hardly less formidable, often more -distressing, more repulsive, than consumption. It is scrofula—that -taint in the blood by which the sins of the fathers are visited upon the -children unto and beyond the third and fourth generation. It often -throws around its victims the charms of a strange beauty and a -precocious, <i>spiritual</i>, intelligence. But the wise physician regards -with anxious forbodings these signs so prized by loving friends. Here, -too, a total change of air, diet, surroundings, is urgently, often -imperatively, demanded.</p> - -<p>One of the banes of our raw, damp atmosphere is rheumatism. It is -painful, it is common, it is dangerous.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> In recent years we have learned -that a fatal complication is alarmingly frequent in this -complaint—organic disease of the heart. In examining for life -insurance, we enquire particularly if the candidate is rheumatic. If the -answer is affirmative, three times out of four we detect some unnatural -action in this great centre of life. Now, it is well known how -beneficially a warm, equable climate acts on sufferers with this malady. -Let them, therefore, be warned in time to seek this means of prolonging -life.</p> - -<p>There is a complaint which makes us a burden to ourselves, and too often -a nuisance to our companions. It is not dangerous, but is most trying. I -mean dyspepsia, a hydra-headed disease, wearing alike to mind and body. -The habits of our countrymen and countrywomen predispose them to it. In -our great cities it is exceedingly prevalent. It, too, is always -relieved, often completely cured by traveling—and often nothing but -this will cure it.</p> - -<p>The same may be said of those states of nervous and mental exhaustion, -consequent on the harrassing strain of our American life, our -over-active, excitable, national temperament. This exhaustion shows -itself in the faltering step, the care-worn expression, the disturbed -nutrition, in palpitation, in irritability, in causeless anxiety, and a -legion of similar symptoms. Doctors call it <i>paresis</i>, and say that it -is a new disease, a visitation of nature upon us for our artificial, -unquiet lives.</p> - -<p>There is an era in life when no actual disease is present, when the body -visibly yields to the slow and certain advance of age. The mind, too, -sympathises, and loses the keenness of its faculties. With most, this -is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> about the age of sixty. It has long been noticed how fatal this -period is. It is known as “the grand climacteric” in works on life. It -has also been noticed that it is the winter months especially that are -dangerous to persons at this age. The old Romans had this pregnant -expression: “<i>inimicior senibus hyems</i>,”—winter, the foe of the aged. -Modern research proves its correctness. An English physician, Dr. Day, -calculating from nearly 55,000 cases over sixty years of age, discovered -the startling fact that the deaths in January were within a small -fraction <i>twice as many</i> as in July! Such an unexpected statement -reminds us of that significant expression of another distinguished -statistician who had studied closely the relation of mortality and -temperature: “Waves of heat are waves of life; and waves of cold are -waves of death.” With these, and a hundred similar warnings before us, -we are safe in saying that in many cases entire relaxation from business -and two or three winters in a warm climate about the age of sixty, will -add ten years to life.</p> - -<p>I now approach a delicate topic. A warm climate promises aid where -medicines are utterly ineffectual. I mean in marriages not blessed by -offspring. Most readers know how early females are married in the -tropics. Mothers of fourteen and sixteen years are not uncommon. Heat -stimulates powerfully the faculty of reproduction. The wives of the -French colonists in Algiers are notably more fertile than when in their -Northern homes. So we can with every reason recommend to childless -couples, without definite cause of sterility, a winter in the south. I -have known most happy effects from it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span></p> - -<h3><a name="CHAP_II_WHAT_CLIMATE_SHALL_BE_CHOSEN" id="CHAP_II_WHAT_CLIMATE_SHALL_BE_CHOSEN"></a>CHAP. II.—WHAT CLIMATE SHALL BE CHOSEN?</h3> - -<p>This is a question of vital importance. An error here is fatal. Every -person, every case of the same disease, is not at all suited by the same -climate. Many an invalid who would survive for years, if he passed his -winters in Florida, is sent to die in the cold, dry air of Minnesota; -some who would find health at St. Paul, choose to perish at St. -Augustine; there are some whose safety lies in the mountains, others who -can find it nowhere but on the sea shore.</p> - -<p>Neither patients nor physicians fully appreciate the extreme importance -of deciding correctly here, and abiding by the decision. The invalid is -apt to go where it is most convenient, or most agreeable for him to go. -He goes where he has friends. He goes at his peril.</p> - -<p>I have in mind the case of a young priest, the only child of his -parents, loved by them as an only child is loved by the warm Irish -heart. Before leaving the seminary, unmistakeable signs of consumption -showed themselves. By assiduous care, he passed the winter comfortably, -and as spring approached, his disease was checked. Every symptom abated. -He gained in weight and strength. The cough nearly disappeared; the -night sweats left him; his appetite returned. When summer opened, I said -to him: “Go to the mountains. Complete restoration awaits you there. -Avoid the sea shore. It is death to you.” I heard nothing more from him -for two months. Then I was summoned in haste I found him with an -irritative fever, with daily chills, with a distressing cough. He had -been to the mountains for several weeks, and had improved so rapidly -that he thought himself well, and concluded to join some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> friends on the -Atlantic shore. He did so, and the result was before me. I then had the -most painful duty of a physician’s life to perform,—that of informing a -mother that her only child is beyond human aid.</p> - -<p>And here I must say, with all deference to the faculty, that the -ignorance and carelessness of physicians in reference to this matter of -climate are at most reprehensible. Few of them make any distinction in -cases. They send all consumptives to Minnesota, or to Texas, or to -Florida, or to Cuba, as if in every instance what is sauce for goose is -also sauce for gander. Thus it happens that the most eligible climates -gain a bad reputation. They suit many, perhaps most, but they do not -suit <i>all</i>. Go to Nice, Naples, the Isle of Pines, you will find -invalids who unquestionably, were they at home, would be in a better -place. This is chiefly the fault of their physicians. When a doctor -recommends a climate, and yet is unable to tell you its temperature, its -moisture, its prevailing winds, its seasons, its local diseases, its -articles of food, its water, its mineral springs, its accommodations for -travellers—beware of him. He is a dangerous counsellor. These facts the -physician <i>must</i> know to advise wisely.</p> - -<p>There are others which he must learn from the invalid himself. -Constitutions are differently affected by climate, and so are cases of -the same disease. Some climates are sedative and relaxing, others tonic -and bracing; some are moist and soothing, others dry and steeling. Some -constitutions are nervous and irritable, others torpid and sluggish; -some have plenty of latent force which needs use, in others the vital -powers are naturally weak, and must be carefully husbanded. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> some -cases, the symptoms are of an inflammatory, in others of an atonic -character; in some, the secretions are scanty, in others profuse; in -some, considerations of diet are of great importance, in others they do -not enter; in some, the cough is importunate, in others, hardly -annoying—and a hundred other differences might be added. The question -is a complicated one. It asks for its solution the utmost care of the -physician. It almost demands the trained skill of the specialist.</p> - -<p>I repeat, therefore, that no climate can be recommended indiscriminately -to all; that the climate must be selected by an intelligent physician -who has carefully studied the case; that the locality which brings life -to one, brings death to another; and, therefore, that having decided on -a change of climate, it is of vital importance to select the right one.</p> - -<p>The decision between a warm and a cold climate must be made somehow -thus: If you have usually borne cold well, if you have not been subject -to cold feet and hands, and disagreeable chilliness; if you are -accustomed to out-door exercise in winter; if you are not subject to -catarrhs, pneumonia, pleurisy, coughs, irritation of the pharynx; if you -are not plethoric; if you are free from rheumatic, neuralgic or gouty -pains which become worse as winter approaches; if your throat is anæmic -rather than congestive, and your liver torpid; if your health is not -already too much reduced to stand the icy winds of the north; if you -prefer winter to summer, and the cold to the hot months; if heat -oppresses you and enervates you;—then if you want to change your -climate, go to Minnesota, to Labrador, or the Canadian highlands. But -no, this is not all. Have you a fancy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> for any particular spot among -those famous for salubrity? Is there a pastime or pursuit to which you -are addicted? Do you love to boat, fish, hunt, ride, camp out, botanize, -photograph? Indulge your taste. Such considerations have quite as much -weight as many a medical reason. Then there is the question of money. If -you carry the cares of business with you; if you have to pinch and spare -on your journey; if you are worried about your expenses, the trip will -do you little good, I have tried to give accurate accounts of the cost -of living in the South, so that a traveler may know what to expect -there.</p> - -<p>All these matters have to be weighed, and from them a conclusion reached -as to what climate is best. It is a complicated question, and it is not -enough that the doctor make his diagnosis and then oracularly pronounces -the name of some locality as that best suited for your disease. It is -easy for him, but it may turn out hard for you.</p> - -<h3><a name="CHAP_III_WHERE_IS_THE_BEST_SOUTHERN_WINTER_CLIMATE" id="CHAP_III_WHERE_IS_THE_BEST_SOUTHERN_WINTER_CLIMATE"></a>CHAP. III—WHERE IS THE BEST SOUTHERN WINTER CLIMATE?</h3> - -<p>In studying this question of climate, more particularly with reference -to those who suffer from diseases of the throat and lungs, I have taken -some pains to satisfy myself whereabout in the South those of them whom -a Southern climate suits will find the most eligible climatic conditions -in winter. I shall give the result of my studies, though for reasons -which will soon appear, it is of no great use just now. I build for the -future.</p> - -<p>The model climate for such invalids must satisfy four<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> conditions. It -must have an equable temperature, moderate moisture, moderate and -regular winds, and freedom from local disease.</p> - -<p>First about temperature. Here the mere amount of heat or cold is not so -much to be looked at, as what meteorologists call the <i>range</i>. The -thermometer should show no great difference in the day and the night, or -between one day and another. Sudden changes should not appear on the -record. Warmth is desirable because it leads to a life in the open air, -prevents chilly and close rooms, and soothes the irritable air passages. -Heat above seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit is objectionable, because it -is debilitating, and hinders exercise.</p> - -<p>In the United States, Key West has the warmest climate and the least -range. Its mean annual temperature is 76°.5; its range 52° Fahrenheit. -This is rather too hot. Nor is it free from some other objections. The -island is small, barren, and uninteresting; there are no rides and -drives, and violent winds from the north and northeast occur more or -less every winter.</p> - -<p>Many have lauded the climate of Texas. It is true that the hottest -portions of that State have a mean annual temperature of 73°. But then -the winters there are as cold as in Southern Georgia, and the range is -nowhere less than 70°, and generally 80° to 90°. Then there are the -“northers,” chilling winds from the north, which reduce the temperature -10° to 20° in a few hours. In fine, the climate is much less equable -than on the south Atlantic coast. The winter temperature of most of -Texas is as low as that of South Carolina.</p> - -<p>This is too low. The mean temperature of Charleston, S. C., is 66°, the -range nearly 95°. At Savannah<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> the temperature of the year is 65°, the -range about 90°. The summers at these points are hot, the winter months -often cold, damp, and raw. It is precisely these months, and these only, -which interest us just now. To present the matter more fully I extract -the following table from the Medical statistics of the U. S. Army. It is -based on careful observations extending over many years, and shows the -temperature of each of the winter months in a number of places in the -South:</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td class="c">Locality.</td> -<td class="c"> December.</td> -<td class="c"> January.</td> -<td class="c"> February.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Aiken, S. C.,</td><td class="c"> 47°</td> -<td class="c"> 45°</td> -<td class="c"> 50°</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Charleston,</td><td class="c"> 52</td><td class="c"> 51</td><td class="c"> 52</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Savannah,</td><td class="c"> 53</td><td class="c"> 52</td><td class="c"> 55</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Tallahassee,</td><td class="c"> 55</td><td class="c"> 55</td><td class="c"> 60</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mobile,</td><td class="c"> 52</td><td class="c"> 55</td><td class="c"> 50</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Pensacola,</td><td class="c"> 56</td><td class="c"> 54</td><td class="c"> 56</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">St. Augustine,</td><td class="c"> 57</td><td class="c"> 57</td><td class="c"> 60</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">New Smyrna,</td><td class="c"> 63</td><td class="c"> 62</td><td class="c"> 64</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cedar Keys,</td><td class="c"> 62</td><td class="c"> 58</td><td class="c"> 58</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Tampa Bay,</td><td class="c"> 61</td><td class="c"> 61</td><td class="c"> 63</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ocala,</td><td class="c"> 63</td><td class="c"> 58</td><td class="c"> 58</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Miami River,</td><td class="c"> 67</td><td class="c"> 66</td><td class="c"> 67</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Key West,</td><td class="c"> 70</td><td class="c"> 69</td><td class="c"> 70</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Corpus Christi,</td><td class="c"> 57</td><td class="c"> 56</td><td class="c"> 57</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Corpus Christi is the hottest place in Texas; yet its winters are colder -than on the eastern coast of Florida, and its annual range is 70 -degrees. The highest winter temperature observed anywhere on the -mainland of the United States was at Fort Dallas on the Miami river, and -at New Smyrna, some miles north of it, both on the east coast of -Florida. Furthermore, their range is less than anywhere else. During -four years that the army officers watched the thermometer at Fort -Dallas, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> highest point reached by the mercury was 95 degrees; the -lowest 35 degrees; a range, therefore, of 60 degrees in four years.</p> - -<p>I conclude therefore that the most equable climate of the United States -is on the south-eastern coast of Florida.</p> - -<p>I shall dismiss the second condition in a few words. Moist warmth is -soothing; dryness is irritating; every one who has worn a poultice knows -this. A moist, warm air, moderately charged with vapor, or even -approaching a saturated condition, is therefore, as a rule, most -agreeable to the air passages, and the general comfort. In winter, all -along our southern seaboard the air is moist; it is sufficiently warm -and moist both, nowhere but in southeastern Florida, as the table of -winter temperatures shows us.</p> - -<p>A moist atmosphere is not always a rainy one. A rainy climate, no matter -what other conditions it may have, is a detestable one. Southern Florida -has a hot and rainy season from May to September. Everything moulds, and -drips, and steams. The rainfall averages every year from forty-five to -sixty inches. But nearly all of it falls in the summer months. In -December, January and February, two, two and a half, and three inches a -month are an ordinary average. This means that the weather is much more -generally fair than foul.</p> - -<p>The third condition is the prevalence of moderate and regular winds. I -have already hinted about the Texan “northers.” Similar windstorms occur -throughout the Gulf States. I have felt them disagreeably at Key West, -though there the tepid waters of the Gulf of Mexico temper their blasts. -Sometimes they blow<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span> violently for thirty-six or forty-eight hours. On -the southeastern coast of Florida they are both warmed by the Gulf, and -lessened in violence by the woods of the peninsula. The winds there are -in winter usually north, northeast, and northwest. In summer a breeze -from the sea sets in about ten A. M., which often reduces the -temperature about six degrees in ten minutes, without causing other than -a pleasant sensation. At night a land breeze blows off the land.</p> - -<p>The occasional cold winds in winter are an objection from which no part -of our southern country is wholly free. Moderate winds are essential to -the purity of the atmosphere, and these generally prevail along the -Gulf.</p> - -<p>The fourth condition of climate is a vital one. I have witnessed the -results of months of care destroyed by a single attack of intermittent -fever. I have already stated that miasmatic fevers are extremely common -in the interior of Florida during the summer and early autumn, but they -do not occur on the sea coast during the late autumn and winter.</p> - -<p>This is especially true of southeastern Florida. Portions of our army -were stationed there during all seasons, for a number of years, and the -testimony of the army surgeons is unanimous and most favorable. And let -me here remind the reader that the surgeons of the United States Army -are thoroughly educated physicians, of unequaled experience in all the -variety of climate which our country presents, and who, having no -quarter sections to sell, or other axe to grind, give their evidence -with the utmost impartiality. Here is one quotation from a report to the -Surgeon General, dated at Fort Pierce, on Indian river: “This post has a -climate,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> in every respect, perhaps, unsurpassed by any in the world.” -And these are the words of Dr. R. F. Simpson, U. S. A., writing about -Fort Dallas, on the Miami, the very spot I have been maintaining -approaches nearest the model climate for consumptives: “I have been on -duty at most of the posts in Florida, but <i>none compare</i> with this for -salubrity.”</p> - -<p>The sea coast of south-east Florida, therefore, fulfils the four -conditions which make up the best climate for a consumptive. I have -other testimony about it well worth presenting. It, too, comes from the -same unimpeachable source,—the medical statistics of the United States -Army. I preface it by a fact of general interest about the whole of -Florida. All know how terribly arduous must be campaigning through the -swamps and everglades of that State. Yet the yearly mortality from -disease of the regular army there, was only twenty-six per thousand men. -The average of the army elsewhere was thirty-five per thousand, while in -Texas it rose to forty, and on the lower Mississippi to forty-four per -thousand.</p> - -<p>But the character of disease interests us most just now. We are -inquiring particularly about throat and lung complaints. These army -statistics are here of immense value. They specify the diseases of each -station. I have taken these four: Consumption (phthisis pulmonalis), -bronchitis, inflammation of the lungs (pneumonia), and pleurisy; and -have ascertained their relative frequency at various points in the -South. Here are the results (omitting fractions): In Arkanzas, each -year, one man in every sixteen came under the surgeon’s hands, with one -or other of these diseases; on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> the southern frontier of Texas, also one -in sixteen; at Baton Rouge, La., one in seventeen; on the western -frontier of Texas, one in nineteen; on the west coast of Florida, one in -twenty-one; on the east coast of Florida, <i>one in thirty-nine</i>!</p> - -<p>This is confirmation strong indeed. Even in the favored northwest, we -may look in vain for anything equal to it. The sick reports of St. Paul, -Minn., show one in every nineteen, yearly treated for these complaints.</p> - -<p>Yet all this avails nothing, so long as there are no accommodations for -invalids, in this favored region, none of the conveniences of civilized -life, few inhabitants of any kind, hardly any means of getting there. -There are bluffs forty feet high and more, on Indian river, beautiful -localities along Key Biscayne Bay, in a glorious climate, healthy beyond -any in our country, very easy of access from Key West, near the best -hunting grounds of Florida, where an abundance of the most delicious -tropical fruits could be raised, where fish, sea turtles and oysters -abound; all that is needed is a weekly steamer from Key West, and a few -plain, well kept, moderate priced hotels, to make it the most eligible -spot in the South for the invalid or the tourist.</p> - -<p>It has other attractions. I have been told that it is the only part of -Florida where the pine apple will grow in the open air. Certainly -guavas, pomegranates, dates, alligator pears, (that fruit which it is -worth a voyage to the tropics to taste,) sugar apples and most of the -other appetizing luxuries of the torrid zone would flourish.</p> - -<p>The climate in winter is serene, from two-and-a-half<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> to three inches of -rain falling per month. The mean daily marking of the thermometer from -November to April is 72°, of the hygrometer 68°. Here is another hint. -The arrow root (<i>maranta arundinacea</i>) grows along Key Biscayne in great -abundance. It furnishes the very finest form of starch known, a most -admirable article of diet for the sick, and a most profitable one to the -cultivator. Its wholesale price in our markets is from fifty to -seventy-five cents per pound; there is always a demand for it, and tens -of thousands of pounds a year could be readily gathered.</p> - -<p>I have already detailed at some length the position, soil, etc., of Key -Biscayne Bay (ante p. 102). But, as already said, I build for the -future, and not the present. It has the best warm climate in the United -States for invalids, and it deserves to become a much frequented spot.</p> - -<h3><a name="CHAP_IV_SOME_HINTS_TO_HEALTH_SEEKERS" id="CHAP_IV_SOME_HINTS_TO_HEALTH_SEEKERS"></a>CHAP. IV.—SOME HINTS TO HEALTH SEEKERS.</h3> - -<p>In the introductory remarks I have thrown out a number of suggestions -which every traveler in the South will do well to heed. I am now going -to <i>servir un plat de mon metier</i>—to offer some admonitions to invalids -distinctively, and especially those suffering or threatened with -pulmonary and bronchial affections. How often does one see invalids -abroad deluding themselves with the idea that the climate alone will -cure them! Vain hope. Better remain at home and die, if need be, than -undertake long and fatiguing journeys with any such expectation. The -result in either case is the same.</p> - -<p>There are certain rules of personal hygiene and diet which are half the -battle, which might win it at home,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> which will almost surely win it if -the right change of climate is made in time. They are not applicable to -all, but they must form the basis of every regimen.</p> - -<p>And here, once more, I repeat the watchword, <i>Courage</i>. If improvement -is not manifest at once, do not become disheartened. Often it is months, -often it is not until after the return home that the hoped for change -for the better is obvious. The interim is at best wearisome. Make it as -cheerful as possible. Valetudinarians should not travel alone. They fall -easy victims to Giant Despair, who is still as ready as ever to pounce -on unwary travelers, especially on wet days, alone in dull country -taverns, with nothing to think of but themselves and their own aches and -pains. Go in company and always have a resource for spare hours.</p> - -<p>No resource is better than to collect something. There are bugs, and -butterflies, and mosses, and fossils, and flowers, and Indian -curiosities, and species of woods, and birds’ eggs, and skins, and -minerals, the pursuit of either one of which will give healthful -exercise in fair weather, and their arrangement interesting occupation -when it rains.</p> - -<p>I am almost pleased, for the invalid’s sake, to say that as for -treasures of art, Florida has none. There are no interminable picture -galleries, or cold, damp churches, or belvideres, or other such æsthetic -afflictions to visit, the frequency of which in Italy is a serious -drawback to the seeker after health. On the other hand, Nature has -spread out boundless attractions in the animal, the vegetable, and the -mineral worlds, the study of which has ever something soothing and -rejuvenating.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span></p> - -<p>Exercise in the open air every day should be taken religiously and -regularly. The kind of exercise must depend on circumstances. Rowing -develops the chest and arms; walking, the lower limbs; riding is an -excellent stimulant of the liver and lungs. When possible, they should -be alternated. An hour each morning and afternoon should be consecrated -to this purpose. A cheerful companion is an admirable adjunct in any of -them.</p> - -<p>There is another exercise of the greatest value. No person with a weak -chest should neglect to practice every morning and evening, for ten or -fifteen minutes at a time, <i>deep inspirations</i>. It is done thus: Stand -or sit erect, throw the chest well forward, the arms back, then open the -mouth and inhale slowly to the full capacity of the lungs. Retain the -air several seconds <i>by an increased effort</i>, and then let it gradually -escape. Breathe naturally a few times, then repeat the inspiration. This -simple procedure has a wonderful influence. It increases the breathing -power of the lungs, it expands the walls of the chest, in the opinion of -some learned physicians, Professor Piorry of Paris for example, it is -actually curative where tuberculous deposit has already taken place. But -whenever else exercise is taken, it is best not to be before breakfast. -Another salutary habit is to bathe the whole body every morning with -salt and water of the temperature of the room. There is no real -difficulty in this, even when traveling. A sponge or a wash towel, and a -coarse dry towel for the skin, are all that is required. A plunge bath -is as good, but not so convenient. When neither can be taken, the whole -person should receive a thorough dry-rubbing. But the salt water bath is -most useful to the invalid.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span></p> - -<p>It would give me great pleasure to discuss at length the subject of -<i>food</i>. But in fact tourists in most parts of the South must make up -their minds to such fare as they can get, not such as they want. For -instance, I place in the first line of the bill of fare for consumptives -the article <i>milk</i>, fresh rich milk, five or six tumblers of it a day, -dashed now and then, if you please, with a trifle of good old cognac or -Jamaica spirits. Now milk is precisely the scarcest article at a Florida -hotel in winter.</p> - -<p>I lived once for a month on a plantation in the extreme south of the -peninsula. The proprietor had two hundred head of cattle—many of the -cows with calves—yet we actually did not have milk enough for our -coffee.</p> - -<p>In the next line of my bill of fare I place <span class="smcap">EGGS</span>; three or four a day, -boiled soft, or taken in the guise of a “flip,” with pale sherry. These, -too, are not always, nor often, to be had for the asking in this -country, where nature has done so much for the invalid and man so -little. Fat meat comes next, or, in its place, butter and olive oil may -be freely used. Coffee and chocolate are allowable; tea barely -permissible. Tobacco, even the tasteless, “washed,” Florida tobacco, -absolutely prohibited in every form. Some pure rye or wheat whisky may -be taken, well diluted, three times a day, if it causes no unpleasant -sensations, but all excess should be shunned. And, here, I advise those -who wish pure liquors not to depend on hotel bars, restaurants, or -provincial drug stores, but to provide them before leaving home.</p> - -<p>Whatever food is taken, should be taken as nearly as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> possible at -regular hours, in moderate quantities, and more frequently than in -health. Those who are weak, will find great comfort in having a cup of -broth, a glass of milk punch, or some similar food, placed by their bed -on retiring, to take during the night. Late suppers, however, should be -avoided.</p> - -<p>In choosing a residence, see that it is at a distance from stagnant -water, not very densely shaded, and not exposed to night fogs. The -sleeping room should be on an upper floor, with a southerly or westerly -exposure, and with plenty of air, light, and sunshine. The bed should -not be in a draft, nor in a recess, nor against the wall. A spring or -hair mattress, (cotton, so much used in the South, is not -objectionable), is most healthful, and it is of prime importance to -those with weak lungs, not to sleep under many covers. The windows may -be left open nightly, if the situation is dry.</p> - -<p>The question is often asked about exposure to night air. Our -distinguished literateur, N. P. Willis, long a sufferer with pulmonary -disease, used to maintain that the atmosphere at night was quite as -healthful as by day. The nightfall, when at dusk the temperature rapidly -lowers, he found most hurtful. The air at night is, as a rule, colder -than during the day, and is often saturated with moisture. Certainly, -therefore, those who think with Mr. Willis, will do well to protect -themselves by extra clothing. The safest plan is to avoid exposure, -except on unusually clear, mild, and dry evenings.</p> - -<p>The final suggestions I have to make are about medicines. I put them -last, because they are, in a certain sense, of secondary importance. -Many a patient destroys<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> his digestive powers, and deteriorates his -blood by pouring down “stomach bitters,” “cough syrups,” “purging -pills,” and even the more appropriate prescriptions of his physician. -Cod-liver oil and iron, with perhaps a little syrup of wild cherry at -night to allay the cough, are the only drugs of much avail in -consumption, and the less one exclusively trusts to these for -recovering, the better.</p> - -<p>Quinine, prepared in three-grain pills, should be carried. One pill -before breakfast should be taken whenever one is exposed to the marsh -miasms. I have already suggested a tincture of the peel of the -bitter-sweet orange in whiskey, for the same purpose.</p> - -<p>Many persons, in traveling, become constipated. This is best avoided by -diet. The favorite Southern breakfast dish, “corn grits,” is an -admirable laxative. Corn bread with molasses, fruit early in the day, or -a glass of saline mineral water where it can be had, will generally be -sufficient. If these fail, one of the ordinary compound cathartic pills -can be taken before sleep, or one of the following before a meal:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">℞.</td><td align="left">Pulverized rhubarb, </td><td align="left">36</td><td align="left">grains.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Soap,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">q. s. Make 12 pills.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>A bottle of mild solution of ammonia is useful for application to -musquito bites and the stings of insects.</p> - -<p>Restlessness at night in strange beds and new surroundings, is quite -common. A bath before retiring, or a glass of <i>hot</i> (not warm) water -will quiet this nervous excitement. Granules of morphia, ¼ of a grain -each, should be carried, but used very sparingly, and only to relieve -pain.</p> - -<p>The first effect of a warm climate on many constitutions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> is to bring -on a “bilious” attack. Headache, sick stomach, slight fever and -diarrhœa for a few days are the unpleasant symptoms of this first -brush of acclimation. It can best be avoided by a sparing diet, by -avoiding fatigue, the rays of the sun, and indulgence in fruit. The -treatment is perfect rest, some citrate of magnesia or other cooling -laxative, and low diet.</p> - -<p>Those who go by sea save themselves many annoyances, but in return run -the risk of sea-sickness. To avoid this, they should go aboard after a -moderate meal, keep on deck whenever the sea is smooth, remain in their -births when it is rough, take a little brandy, or, what is better, a -glass of champagne, when the nausea comes on, and wear a silk -handkerchief or broad girdle tied tightly around the stomach.</p> - -<p>By the careful observance of such rules as I have here laid down, and -such others as everyone’s good sense will suggest without prompting, -those in failing health can anticipate the best results from a winter in -the South. The fears which some entertain from the unpleasant feeling -toward Northerners, supposed to exist, are entirely groundless. I have -the best reason to know that there need not be the slightest anxiety on -this score.</p> - -<p>So, also, about the alleged dangers of travel over Southern railroads -and in Southern steamboats. In point of fact more people are injured on -the railroads of New York than of Florida. Moreover it is quite sure, as -Thoreau quaintly says in one of his books, “We sit as many risks as we -run,” and it is about as safe now-a-days on a railroad or in a steamboat -as at one’s own fireside. Such fears need not give a moment’s -uneasiness.</p> - -<p><a name="transcrib" id="transcrib"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td>Jacksonville to Tallahasse=> Jacksonville to Tallahassee {pg v}</td></tr> -<tr><td>Neverthless, two years afterwards=> Nevertheless, two years afterwards {pg 27}</td></tr> -<tr><td>the northen counties=> the northern counties {pg 43}</td></tr> -<tr><td>Newpapers=> Newspapers {pg 57}</td></tr> -<tr><td>undergrowth of palmetto give same=> undergrowth of palmetto gives same {pg 58}</td></tr> -<tr><td>associated with the atroicities=> associated with the atrocities {pg 59}</td></tr> -<tr><td>can accomodate comfortably=> can accommodate comfortably {pg 60}</td></tr> -<tr><td>the form of a trapezuim=> the form of a trapezium {pg 69}</td></tr> -<tr><td>give them a chancesto=> give them a chance to {pg 74}</td></tr> -<tr><td>the Kissimnee river=> the Kissimmee river {pg 77}</td></tr> -<tr><td>here for India river=> here for Indian river {pg 78}</td></tr> -<tr><td>the difficultyof access=> the difficulty of access {pg 79}</td></tr> -<tr><td>6.—JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASEE=> 6.—JACKSONVILLE TO TALLAHASSEE {pg 81}</td></tr> -<tr><td>carried from St. Augutine=> carried from St. Augustine {pg 80}</td></tr> -<tr><td>Talahassee Sentinel=> Tallahassee Sentinel {pg 84}</td></tr> -<tr><td>at eighty-eighty feet=> at eighty-eighty feet {pg 87}</td></tr> -<tr><td>Six miles beyond Lage Griffin=> Six miles beyond Lake Griffin {pg 92}</td></tr> -<tr><td>the name Oklawha=> the name Oklawaha {pg 92}</td></tr> -<tr><td>leaves Gainsville for Micanopy=> leaves Gainesville for Micanopy {pg 95}</td></tr> -<tr><td>touch at Ceder Keys=> touch at Cedar Keys {pg 96}</td></tr> -<tr><td>such insignificant altitutde=> such insignificant altitude {pg 98}</td></tr> -<tr><td>of Hillsborouh river=> of Hillsborough river {pg 108}</td></tr> -<tr><td>near the the town=> near the town {pg 108}</td></tr> -<tr><td>more particuularly=> more particularly {pg 123}</td></tr> -<tr><td>guavas, pomegrantes=> guavas, pomegranates {pg 129}</td></tr> -</table> -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Guide-Book of Florida and the South -for Tourists, Invalids and Emigrants, by Daniel G. 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