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diff --git a/old/53128-0.txt b/old/53128-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b52d476..0000000 --- a/old/53128-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1843 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Indian Council in the Valley of the -Walla-Walla. 1855, by Lawrence Kip - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Indian Council in the Valley of the Walla-Walla. 1855 - -Author: Lawrence Kip - -Release Date: September 23, 2016 [EBook #53128] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDIAN COUNCIL--WALLA WALLA, 1855 *** - - - - -Produced by readbueno, Donald Cummings, Bryan Ness and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE - - _Indian Council_ - - IN THE - - VALLEY OF THE WALLA-WALLA. - - 1855. - - (PRINTED, NOT PUBLISHED.) - - - SAN FRANCISCO: - WHITTON, TOWNE & CO., PRINTERS, EXCELSIOR JOB OFFICE, - NO. 151 CLAY STREET, THIRD DOOR BELOW MONTGOMERY - 1855. - - - TARRYTOWN - NEW YORK - REPRINTED - WILLIAM ABBATT - 1915 - Being Extra No. 39 of THE MAGAZINE OF HISTORY WITH NOTES AND QUERIES - - - - -RES ARDUA VETUSTIS NOVITATUM DARE; NOVIS AUCTORITATEM; OBSOLETIS, -NITOREM; OBSCURIS, LUCEM; FASTIDITIS, GRATICUM; DUBIIS, FIDEM; OMNIBUS -VERO NATURAM, ET NATURAL SUA OMNIA. - -ITAQUE ETIAM NON ASSECUTIS, VOLUISSE ABUNDE PULCHRUM UTQUE MAGNIFICUM -EST. - -(It is a difficult thing to give newness to old things, authority to new -things, beauty to things out of use, fame to the obscure, favor to the -hateful (or ugly), credit to the doubtful, nature to all and all to -nature. To such, nevertheless as cannot attain to all these, it is -greatly commendable and magnificial to have attempted the same.) - - PLINY.—preface to his _Natural History_. - - - - - EDITOR'S PREFACE - - -If the author's other book, _Army Life on the Pacific_, which we -reprinted as our EXTRA No. 30, is a scarce item of Americana, this is -even more so, for it was not even published; a few copies only having -been printed for distribution among Lieutenant Kip's friends. Hence it -is exceedingly rare; a copy being priced in a recently issued catalogue, -at $25.00. - -Of the various persons mentioned in its pages, none survives. - -CAPTAIN B. L. E. BONNEVILLE, Seventh Infantry, was absent so long on the -explorations which made him famous, that his name was dropped from the -rolls of the Army as probably dead. On his reappearance he was restored -(1836), served through the Mexican War with the Fourth Infantry, and was -retired in 1861. In 1865 he was brevetted brigadier general, and died in -1878, the oldest officer on the retired list. - -LIEUTENANT ARCHIBALD GRACIE, Fifth Infantry, resigned May 3, 1856. In -1861 he joined the Confederate army, and was killed as a brigadier -general, Dec. 2, 1864, at Petersburg. - -CAPTAIN AND BREVET MAJOR GRANVILLE O. HALLER, Fourth Infantry, a veteran -of the Mexican War. Was dismissed from the Army in 1863, but reinstated -in 1879, and died in 1897. - -LIEUTENANT HENRY C. HODGES, Fourth Infantry, retired as Colonel and -Asst. Q.M. Genl. in 1895. - -MAJOR GABRIEL J. RAINS, Fourth Infantry, resigned from the Army in 1861, -and joined the Confederate army. He died in 1881. - -CAPTAIN DAVID A. RUSSELL, Fourth Infantry, a veteran of the Mexican War, -became Colonel of the 7th Massachusetts in 1862, and was killed, as -Major General U.S.A. in the battle of Opequan, Va., Sept. 19, 1864. - -GOVERNOR ISAAC I. STEVENS, a veteran of the Mexican War, had resigned as -brevet major of Engineers, in 1853. He re-entered the Army in 1861, as -Colonel of the Seventy-ninth N. Y. and was killed as Major General, at -Chantilly, Va., Sept, 1, 1862. - -CAPTAIN HENRY D. WALLEN, Fourth Infantry, was retired in 1874 as Colonel -Second Infantry. He was brevetted brigadier general in 1865 for services -during the War of the Rebellion and died in 1886. - -REV. MARCUS WHITMAN, the distinguished missionary-explorer, who saved -Oregon to the United States, and was killed by the Indians at his -missionary settlement of Waülatpu, Oregon, Nov. 29, 1847. - -BRIGADIER GENERAL JOHN E. WOOL, a veteran of the War of 1812, and the -Mexican War, became Major General in 1862, and was retired in 1863. He -died in 1869. - - - - -These pages are the expansion of a Journal kept while with the Escort -from the 4th Infantry, at the Indian Council. A few copies are now -printed for some personal friends. While it may show them the nature of -Army life on the frontiers, it will preserve for the writer a record of -some pleasant scenes on the plains, among tribes which in a few years -will cease to exist. - - LAWRENCE KIP - - SAN FRANCISCO, SEPT. 1855. - - - - - THE - - INDIAN COUNCIL AT THE WALLA-WALLA - - - - - JOURNAL - - -It was about ten o'clock on a morning in the beginning of May, that our -good steamer crossed the bar at the mouth of the Columbia river,—from -its shifting shoals the most dangerous navigation on the whole Pacific -coast. Our passage of six days from San Francisco had been remarkably -stormy, and probably there were none on board more delighted than myself -at the prospect of once more standing on terra firma. "Life on the ocean -wave," has some very pretty poetical ideas connected with it, but I -prefer to have got through with all my rocking in my babyhood, and now -sympathize with the Conservative party in wishing all things to be firm -and stable. I am unfortunately one of those - - "Whose soul does sicken o'er the heaving wave." - -At noon we reached the village of Astoria, rendered classical ground by -Washington Irving. An old trapper still living, who belonged to Mr. -Astor's first party, says, he has often seen one thousand Indian canoes -at a time collected on the beach in front of the fort. When the Hudson -Bay Company took charge of it, they removed their establishment up the -river to Vancouver, and allowed the fort to fall into decay, till not a -vestige of it now remains. A few houses, like the beginning of a -village, are scattered along the banks which slope down to the river, -wooded to the edge with pines. Opposite to this we anchored for a few -hours to land freight, and then continuing our course up the river, -night found us still "on our winding way." - -At daylight I was awakened by the ceasing of the monotonous stroke of -the engine and found we were opposite to Fort Vancouver. The sun was -just rising when I came on deck, so that I had the whole scene before -me. Near the river are low meadow grounds, on which stands the post of -the Hudson Bay Company,—a picketed enclosure of about three hundred -yards square, composed of roughly split pine logs. Within this are the -buildings of the establishment, where once much of its immense fur trade -was carried on. From these head-quarters, their companies of trappers, -hunters and voyageurs, generally Canadians, were sent out to thread the -rivers in pursuit of the beaver. Alone they traversed the vast plains, -or passed months in the heart of the mountains, far north to the Russian -possessions, or south to the borders of California, returning in one or -two years with the furs to barter at the Fort. Then came generally a -short time of the wildest revelry, until everything was dissipated or -perhaps gambled away, when with a new outfit they set forth on another -expedition. From Vancouver the Company sent their cargoes of furs and -peltries to England, and thence they received by sea their yearly -supplies. They possessed an influence over the Indians which was -wonderful and which the perfect system of their operations enabled them -for years to maintain. But the transfer of the country to the Americans -and the progress of civilization around them, driving off the Indians -and beaver, have forced them to remove much of their business to other -posts. - -Some distance back the ground rises, and on this ridge stand the -buildings of Fort Vancouver, one of the frontier posts of the United -States Army, marked by the American flag waving on the parade ground in -front. Far in the distance, like a cone of silver, on which the first -rays of the sun were glancing, rose the snow-capped points of Mount -Hood. - -Among our passengers were one hundred and fifty recruits for the 4th -Infantry, in charge of Captain Augur, with whom I landed about six -o'clock, and was soon at the hospitable quarters of Captain Wallen. - -Fort Vancouver was at this time under the command of Lieutenant Colonel -Bonneville, whose "Adventures" for three years in the adjoining Indian -country will always live and be read in the fascinating pages of Irving. -Two companies of the 4th Infantry and one of the 3d Artillery were -stationed there. Altogether, it is probably the most pleasant of our -posts on the Pacific coast. The place is healthy, the scenery around -beautiful, furnishing opportunities of fishing, hunting and riding, -while its nearness to Portland and Oregon City, prevents the young -officers from being, as at many other Western posts, deprived of the -refining influence of female society. Many are the occasions on which -they find it necessary to drop down to these places. Deserters are -supposed to be lurking there, garrison stores are to be provided, or -some other of Uncle Sam's interests are to be looked after. Then, these -visits must be returned, for the inhabitants of these places have an -equal care for the welfare of their neighbors at the fort. Numerous, -therefore, are the parties of pleasure which come from these towns to -enliven the solitude of the garrison. On these occasions they are -welcomed by balls, and night after night the fine music of the -Regimental Band is heard floating over the waters of the Columbia river -and the brilliant glare of lights from the Fort shows that _tattoo_ is -not the signal for all within its walls to retire. - -Here, a few days passed pleasantly, in the way garrison life always -does. In such places there is but little change. "One day telleth -another." Guard mounting—the morning ride—the drill—the long talk over -the dinner table—the evening parade—the still longer talk at night, with -reminiscences of West Point days—and then to bed. At this time, -Lieutenant Hodges (4th Infantry) was ordered to the post at the Dalles, -about ninety miles distant, to conduct thither a company of recruits, -and I, having no very definite object in view, except to see as much of -the country as possible, determined to accompany him. - -We left Vancouver about six A.M. in a little steamer, the _Belle_, which -runs up Columbia river about fifty miles, as far as the Cascades. The -scenery of the river is in all parts beautiful, but very varied in its -character. The pine forests stretch down to the banks, enlivened here -and there by the cultivated spot which some settler has cleared, whose -axe awakened new and strange echoes as it rang through the primeval -woods. On the margin of the shore, and particularly on one of the -islands, we noticed the dead-houses of the Indians, rudely constructed -of logs. Within, the bodies of the deceased are placed for a time, -attired in their best array, until the building becomes filled. Then, -the oldest occupants are removed and placed on the shore, till the tide -launches them off on their last voyage and they are swept down to the -ocean, which to the "untutored savage," as to his more cultivated -brethren, symbolizes Eternity. - -About noon, after a morning of almost incessant rain, we reached the -Cascades, the head of navigation. Here, a _portage_ has to be made, as -the river for more than two miles flows over the rocks, whirling and -boiling in a succession of rapids, similar to those in the river St. -Lawrence. This is the great salmon fishery of the Columbia river, the -season for which commences in this month, when the fish descend[1] the -river in incredible numbers. The banks are inhabited by the remains of -some of the Indian tribes, who display their skill in catching the -salmon, which they dry for exportation. As we passed up, we found them -scattered along the shore employed in this work. Little bridges are -thrown out over the rocks, on which the Indians post themselves, with -nets on hoops, to which long handles are attached. With these they scoop -up the fish and throw them on the shore. They are then pounded fine -between two stones, cured, and tightly packed in bales of grass matting -lined with dried fish skin, in which state they will keep for years. The -process is precisely the same as it was when described by Lewis and -Clarke. The aboriginal village of Wish-ram, at the head of the narrows, -which they mention as being the place of resort for the tribes from the -interior to barter for fish, is yet in existence. We still notice, too, -the difference which the early explorers observed, between these Indians -and those of the plains. The latter, living on horseback, are finely -developed, and look like warriors; the former, engaged only in their -canoes or stooping over the banks, are low in stature and seem to have -been dwarfed out of all manhood. In everything noble they are many -degrees below the wild tribes on the plains. - -Footnote 1: - - As the fish go _up_ the river to spawn, this is evidently a slip of - the pen for "ascend." - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -We walked for about three miles, until we had passed the Cascades, and -then took another little steamer which was to carry us to the Dalles. -The scenery above is similar to that which we had already passed. In one -place the mountains seem to come down to the river, ending in a huge -rock perfectly steep, which has received the name of Cape Horn. Above, -the precipices are covered with fir and white cedar; two small cascades, -like silver lines, leap from point to point for a distance of one -hundred and fifty feet, while below, in the deep shadow the waters seem -to sweep around the rocks with a sullen sound. About ten at night we -reached the end of our journey. - -The post at the Dalles possesses none of the outward attractions of -scenery which distinguish that of Vancouver. Its principal -recommendation is its healthiness. The buildings are badly arranged, -having been planned and erected some years ago by the Mounted Rifles, -when they were stationed in Oregon. The officers' quarters are on the -top of a hill, and the barracks for the men some distance further down, -as if the officers intended to get as far from them as possible. There -is a want of compactness, and as there is no stockade—nothing in the -shape of a fortification—in case of an outbreak by any hostile tribe of -Indians, the post might easily be surprised. At this time, two Companies -of the 4th Infantry were stationed there under the command of Major -Rains. - -Here I spent a week very much as I had done at Vancouver. During this -time we were enlivened by a visit from Governor Stevens, the Governor of -Washington Territory. He was on his way to the interior of the Indian -country—to Walla-Walla—in connection with the Indian Commissioners, to -hold a Grand Council, to which he had summoned the tribes far and near. -For some time they have been restless, numerous murders of emigrants -crossing the plains, have occurred, and it is deemed necessary by the -Government to remove some of the tribes to Reservations which have been -selected for them. The object of this Council was, therefore, to propose -to them the purchase of their territory—a proposition which it was -expected, (as it afterwards proved,) would be received by some tribes -with violent opposition. Governor Stevens had therefore stopped to -request a small body of troops to be sent on to meet him at the Council -ground, to act as escort to the Commissioners, and also to guard the -presents which were to be forwarded for distribution among the Indians. - -A Lieutenant and about forty men were therefore detailed by Major Rains -for this duty, to which were added two half-breeds to act as packers, -and a Cayuse Indian, who was to officiate as guide. This worthy, from -having been shot in the mouth in a fight with the Snake Indians, -rejoiced in the _soubriquet_ of Cut-mouth John. Wounds are said to be -honorable, particularly when received in front, but this was certainly -not ornamental, for it had given him a dreadful distortion of visage. - -On the invitation of the young commander of the expedition, I agreed to -accompany it. The choice of this officer indeed held out every promise -of a pleasant time. Lieutenant Archibald Gracie, in addition to his high -qualifications as a soldier and gentleman, (traits which he shares in -common with the other officers of the post,) had for my purpose the -advantage of our cadet life together for a while at West Point, which -gave us a common topic and ground of interest in the past. Many an -evening, therefore, have we spent lying before our camp fire, out on the -still plains or by the rushing waters of the Umatilla, talking over -these recollections or discussing the probable fortunes of those who -were with us in the House of Bondage. - -Our preparations were soon made, for army expeditions do not allow much -time for packing of trunks. The command was mounted, some fifteen pack -mules added to carry the camp equipage, and about noon, May 18th, we bid -farewell to the officers and rode away from the Dalles. Our course -during the afternoon was through the Des Chutes Valley, an admirable -country for grazing, as the temperature is such that cattle can be kept -out for the whole year and always find subsistence. It was formerly the -place where the Hudson Bay Company raised all the best horses they used. -The country appears, however, from the absence of timber, to be waste -and desolate, though the soil is said to be rich and admirably adapted -to agriculture. After passing the little river of Des Chutes, we found -some springs near the Columbia and encamped, having advanced about -twenty miles. - -Our arrangements for sleeping were soon made. We carried no tents, so -that a buffalo robe and a blanket formed all our bedroom furniture. This -did well enough on pleasant nights, but when it rained, it required some -skill to take refuge under the buffalo robe in such a way as to keep -dry, and not to wake up finding one's self lying in a pool of water. As -soon as we encamped, fires were made by the soldiers and the cooking -commenced. Our suppers indeed, were not very sumptuous, the invariable -bill of fare being, bacon, hard biscuit and a cup of coffee. Yet a long -day's ride would supply the appetite, and after the horses were picketed -and we were sitting cosily by the fire or were lying down watching the -stars above us, with no sound on the wide plain but the measured tread -of our sentinel, there was a degree of freedom about it far more -pleasant than the conventional life of cities. - -_Saturday, May 9th._—We were up early this morning with the intention of -making a long march, but were disappointed, as some of our animals had -strayed off. There being no Indians in the neighborhood, they had been -turned out loose. Men had to be sent out to hunt them up, and it was -near eleven o'clock before the command was ready to march. However, we -improved on the previous day, going twenty-five miles. During the -morning, we reached John Day's River. This, so called from a hunter who -was one of the original members of Mr. Astor's enterprise, it took us -some time to cross, as the water was high, and all the pack mules had to -be unloaded and their packs taken across in a canoe. We went into camp -about five o'clock. - -_Sunday, May, 20th._—This was anything but a day of rest, for our march -was the most severe one we have had, being more than forty miles, with -the sun, hot as the tropics, beating down upon our heads. There was -nothing, too, in the appearance of the country to afford any relief. Far -as the eye could reach was only a wide sunburnt plain, perfectly -lifeless, for the summer suns, by burning up the herbage, had driven the -game to seek refuge by the rivers. The prairie was covered with only a -miserable crop of salt weed and wormwood, and our animals drooped as we -pushed on to find some resting place. Added to this was the want of -water, for often in these regions we are obliged to march from twenty to -twenty-five miles, before we can reach a spring or water course. We were -forced in this case to ride the whole day without stopping, until -towards evening we reached Wells' Springs, a desolate looking place, at -the foot of a range of hills. Here, however, we had water, and therefore -encamped. Night, too, was at hand, so that we were relieved from the -intolerable glare and heat, and in addition, one of the corporals had -the good fortune to shoot a couple of ducks which were lingering about -in the neighborhood of the spring, so that our evening fare was quite -luxurious. - -_Monday, May 21st._—To-day we made a shorter march, of thirty miles, and -went into camp at three o'clock. Three miles from our camping ground we -passed the Indian Agency, a house erected by Government at an expense of -six thousand dollars, for the residence of the Agent. He is, however, -seldom here, making his home generally at the Dalles, and when we passed -the place it was unoccupied. In the evening a party of Indians, whom we -found to be Walla-Wallas, rode into camp. After a little _pow-wow_ they -left us, but having some suspicions of our visitors, our little camp was -arranged with extra care. The horses were carefully picketed, lest they -should be run off, and Lieutenant Gracie directed the guard in walking -their rounds to examine that their muskets were ready for immediate use. - -In the course of the night the rain had commenced and Lieutenant Gracie -and I were striving to keep dry and sleep under the little tent of pack -covers we had hastily erected, when we were startled from our first -slumbers by a terrific yell. It may be imagined that it did not take us -many seconds to be on our feet, with our pistols ready for, what we -supposed, was an attack. Looking out, however, in the dark night, every -thing seemed quiet on the prairie. The animals were grazing around, and -not an Indian to be seen. Upon inquiry, we discovered that the -disturbance had been caused by one of the soldiers finding a large snake -in bed with him. The reptile probably did not like the rain, and -therefore crawled under the soldier's blanket for warmth. What species -it was we did not learn, for the snake, disgusted with his inhospitable -reception, glided away, and the soldier did not detain him to make any -enquiries about his parentage. - -_Tuesday, May 22d._—Our course this morning was through the same -desolate country, until we struck the Umatilla, a beautiful stream -fringed with trees. About ten o'clock we came upon a party of ten -soldiers of the 4th Infantry, who were encamped by the river. They had -been sent out from the Dalles a week before, under the command of a -corporal, in pursuit of some Indian murderers, in finding whom, however, -they had been successful. As Lieutenant Gracie had been directed, in -event of meeting them, to add them to his command, their camp was broken -up and they marched on with us, making the number of soldiers -forty-seven. Towards evening our guide announced that we were but a few -miles from the valley which was the residence of the Cayuse tribe. -Lieutenant Gracie, therefore, sent on the soldiers under command of a -sergeant to find a camping place for the night, while we, under the -guidance of Mr. Cut-mouth John, struck across the country to visit his -countrymen. We found their lodges in a beautiful, well-watered valley, -which I am not surprised they are unwilling to give up. They are, -however, much diminished in numbers, and did not seem to amount to more -than two hundred. We went into several of their lodges, and although -they are notoriously the most unfriendly tribe to the whites among all -the Indians in this region, of which we afterwards had some strong -evidences, yet on this occasion they received us well and showed no -feelings but those of cordiality. After leaving them, we returned to the -trail, and riding on about five miles, found our party encamped by the -Umatilla. - -_Wednesday, May 23d._—At two o'clock P.M., we arrived at the ground -selected for the Council, having made the march in six days. It was in -one of the most beautiful spots of the Walla-Walla Valley, well wooded -and with plenty of water. Ten miles distant is seen the range of the -Blue Mountains, forming the southeast boundary of the great plains along -the Columbia, whose waters it divides from those of Lewis river. It -stretches away along the horizon until it is lost in the dim distance, -where the chain unites with the Snake River Mountains. - -Here we found General Palmer, the Indian Agent, and Governor Stevens, -with their party, who had already pitched their tents. With the latter -we dined. As was proper for the highest dignitary on the ground, he had -a dining room separate from his tent. An arbor had been erected near it, -in which was placed a table, hastily constructed from split pine logs, -smoothed off, but not very smooth. Our own preparations were made for a -more permanent encampment than we have as yet had: a tent was procured -for Lieutenant Gracie and myself, while the men erected for themselves -huts of boughs, spreading over them pack covers. - -_Thursday, May 24th._—This has been an exceedingly interesting day, as -about twenty-five hundred of the Nez Percé tribe have arrived. It was -our first specimen of this Prairie chivalry, and it certainly realized -all our conceptions of these wild warriors of the plains. Their coming -was announced about ten o'clock, and going out on the plain to where a -flag staff had been erected, we saw them approaching on horseback in one -long line. They were almost entirely naked, gaudily painted and -decorated with their wild trappings. Their plumes fluttered above them, -while below, skins and trinkets and all kinds of fantastic -embellishments flaunted in the sunshine. Trained from early childhood -almost to live upon horseback, they sat upon their fine animals as if -they were centaurs. Their horses, too, were arrayed in the most glaring -finery. They were painted with such colors as formed the greatest -contrast; the white being smeared with crimson in fantastic figures, and -the dark colored streaked with white clay. Beads and fringes of gaudy -colors were hanging from the bridles, while the plumes of eagle feathers -interwoven with the mane and tail, fluttered as the breeze swept over -them, and completed their wild and fantastic appearance. - -When about a mile distant they halted, and half a dozen chiefs rode -forward and were presented to Governor Stevens and General Palmer, in -the order of their rank. Then on came the rest of the wild horsemen in -single file, clashing their shields, singing and beating their drums as -they marched past us. Then they formed a circle and dashed around us, -while our little group stood there, the center of their wild evolutions. -They would gallop up as if about to make a charge, then wheel round and -round, sounding their loud whoops until they had apparently worked -themselves up into an intense excitement. Then some score or two -dismounted, and forming a ring, danced for about twenty minutes, while -those surrounding them beat time on their drums. - -After these performances, more than twenty of the chiefs went over to -the tent of Governor Stevens, where they sat for sometime, smoking the -"pipe of peace," in token of good fellowship, and then returned to their -camping ground. - -The Nez Percés, or pierced-nose Indians, received this name from the -early traders and trappers, but they call themselves by the name of -Chipunnish. While they are the most friendly to the whites of any tribe -in this region, they are at the same time one of the most numerous and -powerful, roaming over the whole Rocky Mountains, along the streams to -the West, and across the almost limitless plains to the East, until they -reach the hunting grounds of the tribes of the Missouri. They hunt the -elk, the white bear, the mountain sheep and the buffalo, while they trap -the beaver to sell the skins to the whites. They are celebrated for -their droves of horses, which, after being branded, are turned loose to -roam upon the fertile plains till needed by their owners: when this is -the case, it requires but a few days to break them sufficiently to -answer the purpose of their bold riders. - -About seventy women were seen among the warriors, for their presence is -necessary when the tribe is to be encamped for any length of time. They -perform all the menial offices, arranging the lodge, cooking and -bringing wood, for it would be a disgrace to their lords to be seen -engaged in these things. It would procure for them the title of -_squaws_. Every thing but the perils of war and the chase are beneath -their attention. When at home and not occupied in preparing their arms, -or in feats of horsemanship, they are gambling, lounging in groups on -the mounds of the prairie, or listening to some story-teller, who -recounts the exploits of the old warriors of the tribe. - -The Walla-Wallas, another of the principal tribes present, is one much -reduced in numbers and in importance since the pioneer trappers first -came among them. They range through the valley for thirty miles, to old -Fort Walla-Walla, once a central trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, -on the left bank of the Columbia river near where the Walla-Walla -empties into it. - -In the afternoon I visited the lodge of an old chief of the Nez Percés, -named Lawyer. He showed us a wound in his side from which he was yet -suffering, although several years had elapsed since it was received. It -had been inflicted in a fight with their old hereditary enemies, the -Blackfeet Indians. These are the most dangerous banditti among all the -tribes,—perfect Ishmaelites—who, while they are at war with all the -neighboring savages, have nourished the most implacable hatred to the -whites, since they first met them in the days of Lewis and Clarke. War -is their employment, and the booty they gain by it, their support. They -are admirable horsemen and as much distinguished for their treachery as -for their headlong courage. Their hunting grounds extend from the Yellow -Stone and Missouri rivers to the Rocky Mountains. He showed us also some -locks of their hair which he wore about him,—not as love tokens, or -presented willingly by the former owners, but rather the reverse, as I -presume they are the remains of scalps he had taken. - -To-day Governor Stevens and Mr. Doty, one of his party, dined with us. -It was the first dinner party we had given in the wilderness. Yet think -not, O ye who dine your friends at Delmonico's, that our entertainment -was at all like yours! In the centre of our tent, a buffalo robe was -laid on the ground (the luxury of a table being confined to the -Governor), on which were placed the tin plates which were our only -dishes, for china is not adapted to mule traveling on the plains. About -this we reclined rather in the Oriental style. At one end of the table -(I mean the buffalo skin) was a beef steak from one of the cattle daily -killed at the camp, and at the other end a portion of the same -unfortunate animal's liver. One side-dish was a plate of potatoes—the -other, a plate of bread of leaden heaviness. The second course -was—coffee, likewise served in tin cups. Yet we gathered around this -feast with appetites which could not be found among the strollers in -Broadway, and which it required no French sauces to provoke. - -_Friday, May 25th._—We woke this morning to hear the rain pattering -about us, and to be thankful that we were encamped, and not obliged to -resume our march. At noon it cleared up, when we procured our horses and -rode over to the Indian camp to pay another visit to our friend Lawyer. -We found the old chief surrounded by his family and reading a portion of -the New Testament, while a German soldier of Governor Stevens' party, -was engaged taking his portrait in crayon. He afterwards presented me -with a copy, which I keep as a memento of these pleasant days in the -wilderness. - -In the evening he came to our tent to return our visit. We feasted him -to the best of our ability, not omitting the indispensable pipe, and he -seemed exceedingly gratified with his entertainment. A discussion had -taken place sometime before, as to the hospitality of the Indians, and -Lieutenant Gracie determined on this occasion to test the question: so, -when the old chief's heart seemed to be warmed up with our good cheer, -he enquired, "Whether Lawyer would be glad to see him if he came to his -country to make a short visit?" To this rather direct hint no reply was -for some time given, and the old man evidently endeavored to change the -subject. At last, finding it pressed upon him, he said—"That Mr. Craig," -(an American,) "had a very good house not far from his lodge." The -nearest to an invitation that he would give, was to answer in reply to -Lieutenant Gracie's question, "Perhaps so." - -_Saturday, May 26th._—I spent the morning on horseback exploring the -country. In the course of my ride I met an Indian boy with a prairie -chicken he had just killed, and which he was delighted to exchange for -an old silk handkerchief. There are three peculiarities for which this -region of country has been remarked,—its gorgeous sunsets,—the rapidity -with which the water in its streams rises and falls,—and the contrast -between its hot days and cold nights. - -Towards evening the Cayuse tribe arrived, numbering about three hundred. -They came in whooping and singing in the Indian fashion, and after -riding round the camp of the Nez Percés two or three times, they retired -to form their own at some little distance. In a short time some of the -principal chiefs paid their respects to Governor Stevens and then came -down to look at our camp. It was not, as we had reason to believe -afterwards, a friendly visit, but rather a _reconnaissance_ to learn our -numbers and estimate our powers of resistance. In the evening I again -visited Lawyer and also a number of his tribe. Some of them we found -singing sacred music to prepare for to-morrow, which is Sunday. - -_Sunday, May 27th._—The rain this morning when we woke, was not -pattering upon our tent, but fairly splashing around it, so that we were -contented to keep within its covering till noon, when the returning -sunshine invited us forth. After riding over to Governor Stevens' to -lunch, we went to the Nez Percé camp, where we found they were holding -service in one of the largest lodges: two of the chiefs were -officiating, one of them delivering an address, (taking the Ten -Commandments for his text,) and at the end of each sentence the other -chief would repeat it in a louder tone of voice. This is their -invariable custom with all their speeches. Everything was conducted with -the greatest propriety, and the singing, in which they all joined, had -an exceedingly musical effect. There is an odd mixture of this world and -the next in some of the Nez Percés,—an equal love for fighting and -devotion—the wildest Indian traits with a strictness in some religious -rites which might shame those "who profess and call themselves -Christians." They have prayers in their lodges every morning and -evening—service several times on Sunday—and nothing will induce them on -that day to engage in any trading. - -At an early day the Roman Catholic Missionaries went among them, and as -the tribe seemed blessed with a more tractable disposition than most of -their brethren, the labors of the Fathers appear to have met with -considerable success. A kind of Christianity was introduced among them, -strangely altered, indeed, in many respects, to make it harmonize with -Indian thoughts and actions, yet still retaining many of the great -truths of the faith. It exerted, too, a very perceptible influence over -their system of morality. The Methodists, I believe, have more recently -added their teaching; so that if the theological creed of the Nez Percés -was now investigated, it would probably be an odd system, which would -startle an ordinary D.D. - -After service we rode through the Cayuse camp, but saw no evidence of -Sunday there. The young warriors were lounging about their lodges, -preparing their arms or taking care of their horses, to be ready for -their evening races. The Christianity among these Indians, we suspect, -is confined to the Nez Percés. - -_Monday, May 28th._—At noon to-day I rode out about five miles from our -camp to visit some gentlemen who reside on the site of one of the old -Missions. It was once the residence of the Methodist missionaries, who -seem to have succeeded the Roman Catholic priests in some parts of this -country. For what reason, I know not, they appear to have abandoned -their ground, and when the old _adobe_ buildings stood vacant, being -well situated, with timber around, they were taken by these gentlemen -who were endeavoring to raise stock, to sell to emigrants crossing the -plains, or settlers who will soon be "locating" themselves through these -valleys. They have since abandoned it and moved fifty miles farther into -the interior to a claim of their own. About a stone's throw from the -house are the graves of Dr. Whitman and his family, (seven in number,) -who were murdered in 1847, by a band of Cayuses. He was, I believe, -physician to the Mission. - -We spent the afternoon at the Nez Percé camp, where a band of some -thirty young warriors were engaged in dancing and singing. Their musical -instruments are few in number and of the rudest kind. The singing is -very harsh, and to us, who listened to it only as a collection of -sounds, seemed utterly discordant. The songs are almost entirely -extemporaneous, like the Improvisatore recitations of the Italians, a -narrative of some past events, or perhaps suggested by the sight of -persons present, or by trifling circumstances known to the audience. We -never saw the women dancing, and believe they rarely do, and never with -the men. - -During the dancing we had a little interlude in the shape of a speech. A -young chief delivered it, and at the end of each sentence it was -repeated in a louder voice by one of the old men. This repetition is -their invariable custom, and a crier seems to be a necessary -accompaniment to all their villages. - -To-day, leading chiefs belonging to some of the most distant tribes, -attended by their followers, have been coming in to the camp, and most -of those for which the Commissioners have been waiting are now -represented. Their encampments and lodges are scattered over the valley -for more than a mile, presenting a wild and fantastic appearance. The -Council will probably open to-morrow. According to the original orders -received by Lieutenant Gracie, this was to have been our last day here, -but foreseeing this delay, Governor Stevens had some time ago sent an -express to the Dalles, stating the necessity for the soldiers remaining. -To-day the express returned, bringing instructions from Major Haller to -Lieutenant Gracie, authorizing him to remain on the Council-ground until -the treaty was concluded, and informing him that provisions had been -sent to the escort for seven days more. - -_Tuesday, May 29th._—To-day the Council was to have met at twelve, but -it was two o'clock before it came together. About eight tribes were -represented. Nothing, however, was done but to organize the Council and -swear in the interpreters. Governor Stevens then made them a short -address. All this occupied about two hours, when it began to rain and -the Council adjourned to meet again at ten o'clock to-morrow morning if -the weather should be pleasant: otherwise, on the first pleasant day. A -fine prospect for the extension of our stay in the valley! There are -about five thousand Indians, including squaws and children, on the -ground. - -We had another of our _recherché_ dinner parties this evening, -entertaining one of the gentlemen residing at the Mission, and another -attached to Governor Stevens' party. We received to-day news of the -inspection visit of General Wool to Fort Vancouver and his order for an -expedition to set out on the twentieth of June from Fort Dalles, for the -Snake Indian country, the force to be commanded by Major Haller. - -_Wednesday, May 30th._—At one o'clock this afternoon the Council met, -and business seems to be really commencing. It was a very striking -scene. Directly in front of Governor Stevens' tent a small arbor had -been erected, in which, at a table, sat several of his party taking -notes of every thing said. In front of the arbor on a bench sat Governor -Stevens and General Palmer, and before them, in the open air, in -concentric semicircles, were ranged the Indians, the chiefs in the front -ranks, in the order of their dignity, while the far back ground was -filled with women and children. The Indians sat on the ground, (in their -own words,) "reposing on the bosom of their Great Mother." There were -probably a thousand present at a time. - -After smoking for half an hour, (a ceremony which with them precedes all -business,) the Council was opened by a short address from General -Palmer. Governor Stevens then rose and made a long speech, setting forth -the object of the Council and what was desired of them. As he finished -each sentence, the interpreters repeated it to two of the Indians, who -announced it in a loud voice to the rest—one in the Nez Percé and the -other in the Walla-Walla language. This process necessarily causes -business to move slowly. - -Many of the Indians have been to our camp to visit us to-day among them, -Stechus, an old Chief of the Cayuses. - -_Thursday, May 31st._—On arriving at Governor Stevens' tent I found that -the Council had already met. After the usual preamble of smoking, -Governor Stevens and General Palmer, in succession, made long speeches -to them, explaining the benefits they would receive from signing this -treaty, and the advantages which would result to them from their removal -to the new lands offered in exchange for their present hunting grounds. -The Council lasted till three o'clock. - -This evening we went, as usual, to the Nez Percé camp. There was a -foot-race, but the great events of the evening were the horse-races. -Each of the tribes now here possesses large numbers of horses, so that -wherever they are, the prairies about them are covered with these -animals roaming at large until wanted by their masters. Part of these -are derived from the wild horses of the prairies, while some, from the -marks with which they are branded, show that they have been stolen from -the Spaniards in Upper Mexico. To capture horses is esteemed next in -honor to laurels gained in actual war, and they will follow the party of -a hostile tribe for weeks, watching an opportunity to "run off" their -horses. It is for this, too, that they are hovering around the emigrants -on the plains, who some times by a _stampede_, or a single bold dash, -lose in a night all their animals, and are left helpless on the plains, -as a ship at sea without sails. - -Living as they do on horseback, racing forms one of their greatest -amusements. They will ride for miles, often having heavy bets depending -on the result. On this occasion we saw nearly thirty Indians start at -once and dash over the plain like the winds, sweeping round in a circle -of several miles. - -_Friday, June 1st._—The Council did not meet this morning, as the -Indians wished time to consider the proposal made to them during the -last few days. We learned that two or three of the half-civilized Nez -Percés, who could write, were keeping a minute account of all that -transpired at these meetings. - -At the races this evening a serious accident took place, and which had -nearly proved fatal. The Indians, as usual, were dashing about on -horseback, some going up and others down, when two of them came in -collision, knocking down both horses and leaving the riders senseless. -No bones happened to be broken: the "medicine men" took charge of them, -and it is supposed they will recover. - -To-day has been the warmest we have had: there has not been a breath of -air stirring, and the valley seemed like an extensive oven. At evening, -however, the skies darkened, and for two hours we had the most -tremendous thunder storm I ever witnessed. It was worthy of the tropics. - -_Saturday, June 2d._—Just before I was up this morning we had a call -from some of the Indians, who pay little regard to visiting hours. After -breakfast I rode over to see the gentlemen at the old Mission, and on my -return to camp found that the Council was already assembled, having met -at twelve o'clock. The Indian Chiefs had at length begun to reply, so -that another step has been gained. After Governor Stevens' opening -speech, several of them followed in short addresses. I arrived there -just in time to hear the last one, made by one of the Cayuse Chiefs. He -did not commit himself as to what they would do, but the whole tenor of -his address was unfavorable to the reception of the treaty. After a few -words in conclusion from Governor Stevens, the Council adjourned until -ten o'clock on Monday. - -Then came part of my daily routine of amusement, to ride out and see -Lieutenant Gracie practice the soldiers at target firing. He has been -gradually lengthening the distance, and some of the men are now able to -make very admirable shots. At the Indian camp to-night there was a great -foot-race between about a dozen competitors, who ran over two miles. It -was a good test of the long-winded endurance of the young warriors. As -they raced off over the plain, parties of the Indians and those of us -who were on horseback, rode on each side of them, the friends of the -competitors encouraging them and taunting those who flagged. - -_Sunday, June 3d._—A quiet day, most of it spent in reading in my tent. -In the afternoon rode over to the Mission, and on my return dined with -Governor Stevens. This evening the pack mules from Fort Dalles, with -seven days' provisions, arrived at the Mission and are to be brought -over early to-morrow morning by some of the soldiers. - -_Monday, June 4th_—Breakfast at the fashionable hour of ten, as I was -waiting for Lieutenant Gracie, who was obliged to go early to the -Mission to see about the pack mules. An express came in this morning -from the Dalles, giving him orders to join Major Haller's command, -forty-five miles below this place, as soon as the Council breaks up. - -The diplomatists met to-day at half-past one o'clock. After Governor -Stevens' address, the old Chief, Lawyer, spoke, which was the first time -anything had been heard from the Nez Percés. Several of the other Chiefs -followed, and the Council finally adjourned at five o'clock, without -having yet made any sensible progress. The maxim, that "time is money," -which prevails so extensively among the Anglo-Saxons, has not yet -penetrated into the wilderness to be received as a motive in any way -influencing the conduct. With the Indians, "the next moon" will answer -just as well as this month, for any business that is to be transacted. I -should think, however, that the Commissioners would have their patience -utterly exhausted. - -Until a late hour we heard from the Indian camps the sound of their -singing and the beating of their drums, and could see the figures flit -before the fires as the dancing went on. - -_Tuesday, June 5th._—Another visit before breakfast from some of our -Indian friends. Early this morning Lieutenant Gracie sent off an express -to the Dalles to report progress. Then came the same routine of the -Council: Governor Stevens, at the opening, gave them the most elaborate -address he has yet made, explaining to the Chiefs most definitely, what -lands he wished them to give up, and what their "Great Father," (the -President,) would give them in return, together with the benefits they -would derive from the exchange. General Palmer afterwards made a speech -an hour long, in which he endeavored to illustrate to his audience the -many advantages resulting from their being brought into contact with -civilization. His reasoning at one time led him to give an account of -the Railroad and Telegraph. It was sufficiently amusing to listen to -this scientific lecture, (as Julian Avenel says of Warden's homily in -_The Monastery_,) "quaintly conceived and curiously pronounced, and to a -well chosen congregation;" but it probably would have been much more -diverting, could we have known the precise impressions left upon the -minds of his audience, or have heard them talk it over afterwards in -their lodges. After he had finished, Stechus, an old Cayuse Chief, made -a short speech, and then Governor Stevens adjourned them until -to-morrow. - -There is evidently a more hostile feeling towards the whites getting up -among some of the tribes, of which we had to-night a very unmistakable -proof. The Cayuses, we have known, have never been friendly, but -hitherto they have disguised their feelings. To-night, as Lieutenant -Gracie and I attempted, as usual, to enter their camp, they showed a -decided opposition: we were motioned back, and the young warriors threw -themselves in our way to obstruct our advance. To yield to this, -however, or to show any signs of being intimidated, would have been -ruinous with the Indians, so we were obliged to carry out our original -intentions. We placed our horses abreast, riding round the Indians, -where it was possible, and at other times forcing our way through, -believing that they would not dare to resort to actual violence. If, -however, this hostile feeling at the Council increases, how long will it -be before we have an actual outbreak? - -_Wednesday, June 6th._—To-day the Indians again determined not to meet -in Council, as they wished to consult among themselves: so there is -another day lost. After my ride up the valley to the Mission, I found on -my return to dinner, an old trapper and Indian trader had come in to -visit us, and was to be our guest. We had, however, a sumptuous repast, -for he brought with him a buffalo tongue, a great luxury on the plains, -and one which anywhere might tempt the epicure. - -The races to-night were the most exciting we have seen, as the Indians -had bet some sixteen or eighteen blankets (a great stake for them!) on -the result, and all the passions of their savage natures were called -into play. There was visible none of that Mohawk stoicism of manner -which Fenimore Cooper describes. After the races were finished, -Lieutenant Gracie and I concluded to ride into the camp of our amiable -friends, the Cayuses, to see how they felt this evening. There was no -attempt to exclude us, though if savage and scowling looks could have -killed, we should both have ended our mortal career this evening in this -Valley of Walla-Walla. - -_Thursday, June 7th._—Mr. McKay took breakfast with us. He is the son of -the old Indian hunter so often mentioned in Irving's "Astoria," and -whose name is identified with pioneer life in this region. - -The Council met to-day at twelve, when I went into the arbor, and taking -my seat at the reporters' table, wrote some of the speeches delivered. -There is, of course, in those of the Indians, too much repetition to -give them fully, but a few extracts may show the manner in which these -wearisome debates were conducted day after day: - -GOVERNOR STEVENS. "My brothers! we expect to have your hearts to-day. -Let us have your hearts straight out." - -LAWYER, the old Nez Percé Chief. The first part of his speech was -historical, relating the discovery of this country by the Spaniards, -which is a favorite topic with the Indian orators. In the course of it, -he thus narrated the story of Columbus and the egg, which he had heard -from some of the missionaries. - -"One of the head of the court said, 'I knew there was such a country.' -Columbus, who had discovered it, said, 'Can you make an egg stand on its -end?' He tried to make the egg stand, but could not do it. He did not -understand how. It fell over. Columbus then showed them all that he -could make it stand. He set it down and it stood. He knew how, and after -they saw it done, they could all do it." - -He thus described the manner in which the tribes at the East receded at -the approach of the whites: - -"The red men traveled away farther, and from that time they kept -traveling away farther, as the white people came up with them. And this -man's people," (pointing to a Delaware Indian, who was one of the -interpreters,) "are from that people. They have come on from the Great -Lake where the sun rises, until they are near to us now, at the setting -sun. And from that country, somewhere from the centre, came Lewis and -Clarke, and that is the way the white people traveled and came on here -to my forefathers. They passed through our country, they became -acquainted with our country and all our streams, and our forefathers -used them well, as well as they could, and from the time of Columbus, -from the time of Lewis and Clarke, we have known you, my friends; we -poor people have known you as brothers." - -He concluded by expressing his approval of the treaty, only urging that -the whites should act towards them in good faith. - -GOVERNOR STEVENS. "We have now the hearts of the Nez Percés through -their Chief. Their hearts and our hearts are one. We want the hearts of -the other tribes through their Chiefs." - -YOUNG CHIEF, of the Cayuses. He was evidently opposed to the treaty, but -grounded his objections on two arguments. The first was, they had no -right to sell the ground which God had given for their support, unless -for good reasons. - -"I wonder if the ground has anything to say? I wonder if the ground -would come alive and what is on it? Though I hear what the ground says. -The ground says, 'It is the Great Spirit that placed me here. The Great -Spirit tells me to take care of the Indians, to feed them aright. The -Great Spirit appointed the roots to feed the Indians on. The water says -the same thing. The Great Spirit directs me, Feed the Indians well. The -grass says the same thing, Feed the horses and cattle. The ground, water -and grass say, The Great Spirit has given us our names. We have these -names and hold these names. Neither the Indians nor the Whites have a -right to change these names. The ground says, The Great Spirit has -placed me here to produce all that grows on me, trees and fruit. The -same way the ground says, It was from me man was made. The Great Spirit, -in placing men on the earth, desired them to take good care of the -ground and to do each other no harm. The Great Spirit said, You Indians -who take care of certain portions of the country should not trade it off -except you get a fair price...." - -The other argument was, that he could not understand clearly what they -were to receive: - -"The Indians are blind. This is the reason we do not see the country -well. Lawyer sees clear. This is the reason why I don't know anything -about this country. I do not see the offer you have made to us yet. If I -had the money in my hand I should see. I am, as it were, blind. I am -blind and ignorant. I have a heart, but cannot say much. This is the -reason why the Chiefs do not understand each other right, and stand -apart. Although I see your offer before me, I do not understand it and I -do not yet take it. I walk as it were in the dark, and cannot therefore -take hold of what I do not see. Lawyer sees and he takes hold. When I -come to understand your propositions, I will take hold. I do not know -when. This is all I have to say." - -FIVE CROWS, of the Walla-Wallas. "I will speak a few words. My heart is -just the same as the Young Chief's." - -GENERAL PALMER. "We know no Chief among the Walla-Wallas but -Peepe-mox-mox. If he has anything to say, we will be pleased to hear -it." - -PEEPE-MOX-MOX. "I do not know what is straight. I do not see the offer -you have made to the Indians. I never saw these things which are offered -by my Great Father. My heart cried when you first spoke to me. I felt as -if I was blown away like a feather. Let your heart be, to separate as we -now are and appoint some other time. We shall have no bad minds. Stop -the whites from coming up here until we have this talk. Let them not -bring their axes with them. The whites may travel in all directions -through our country, we will have nothing to say to them, provided they -do not build houses on our lands. Now I wish to speak about Lawyer. I -think he has given his land. That is what I think from his words. I -request another meeting. It is not in one meeting only that we can come -to a decision. If you come again with a friendly message from our Great -Father, I shall see you again at this place. To-morrow I shall see you -again, and to-morrow evening I shall go home. This is all I have to -say." - -GENERAL PALMER. "I want to say a few words to these people. But before I -do so, if Camiaken wants to speak, I will be glad to hear him." - -CAMAIKEN, Yakima Chief. "I have nothing to say." - -GENERAL PALMER. "I would enquire whether Peepe-mox-mox or Young Chief -has spoken for the Umatillas? I would wish to know farther, whether the -Umatillas are of the same heart?" - -OWHI, Umatilla Chief. "We are talking together, and the Great Spirit -hears all that we say to-day. The Great Spirit gave us the land and -measured the land to us. This is the reason I am afraid to say any thing -about this land. I am afraid of the laws of the Great Spirit. This is -the reason of my heart being sad. This is the reason I cannot give you -an answer. I am afraid of the Great Spirit. Shall I steal this land and -sell it? or, what shall I do? This is the reason why my heart is sad. -The Great Spirit made our friends, but the Great Spirit made _our_ -bodies from the earth, as if they were different from the whites. What -shall I do? Shall I give the land which is a part of my body and leave -myself poor and destitute? Shall I say, I will give you my land? I -cannot say so. I am afraid of the Great Spirit. I love my life. The -reason why I do not give my land away is, I am afraid I shall be sent to -hell. I love my friends. I love my life. This is the reason why I do not -give my land away. I have one word more to say. My people are far away. -They do not know your words. This is the reason I cannot give you an -answer. I show you my heart. This is all I have to say." - -GOVERNOR STEVENS. "How will Camiaken or Schoom speak?" - -CAMAIKEN. "What have I to be talking about?" - -GENERAL PALMER. "We have listened and heard our Chiefs speak. The hearts -of the Nez Percés and ours are one. The Cayuses, the Walla-Wallas, and -the other tribes, say, they do not understand us. We were in hopes we -should have had but one heart. Why should we have more than one heart? -Young Chief says, he does not know what we propose to him. Peepe-mox-mox -says the same. Can we bring these saw mills and these grist mills on our -backs to show these people? Can we bring these blacksmith shops, these -wagons and tents on our backs to show them at this time? Can we cause -fields of wheat and corn to spring up in a day that they may see them? -Can we build these school houses and these dwellings in a day? Can we -bring all the money that these things will cost, that they may see it? -It would be more than all the horses of any one of these tribes could -carry. It takes time to do these things. We come first to see you and -make a bargain. We brought but a few goods with us. But whatever we -promise to give you, you will get. - -"How long will these people remain blind? We come to try and open their -eyes. They refuse the light. I have a wife and children. My brother here -has the same. I have a good house, fields of wheat, potatoes and peas. -Why should I leave them and come so far to see you? It was to try and do -you good, but you throw it away. Why is it that you do so? We all -sometimes do wrong. Sometimes because our hearts are bad, and sometimes -because we have bad counsel. Your people have sometimes done wrong. Our -hearts have cried. Our hearts still cry. But if you will try to do -right, we will try to forget it. How long will you listen to this bad -counsel and refuse to receive the light? - -"I, too, like the ground where I was born. I left it because it was for -my good. I have come a long way. We ask you to go but a short distance. -We do not come to steal your land. We pay you more than it is worth. -There is the Umatilla Valley that affords a little good land. Between -the two streams and all around it, is a parched up plain. What is it -worth to you, and what is it worth to us? Not half what we have offered -you for it. Why do we offer you so much? Because our Great Father has -told us to take care of his red people. We come to you with his message, -to try and do you good," &c., &c. - -These extracts will give a specimen of the kind of "talk" which went on -day after day. All but the Nez Percés were evidently disinclined to the -treaty, and it was melancholy to see their reluctance to abandon the old -hunting grounds of their fathers and their impotent struggles against -the overpowering influence of the whites. The meeting to-day closed with -an effective speech by Governor Stevens, addressed to the Chiefs who had -argued against the treaty. I give a part of it:— - -"I must say a few words. My brother and I have talked straight. Have all -of you talked straight? Lawyer has, and his people have, and their -business will be finished to-morrow. Young Chief says, he is blind and -does not understand. What is it that he wants? Steckus says, his heart -is in one of three places—the Grand Rond, the Toucher, and the Two -Cañon. Where is the heart of the Young Chief? Peepe-mox-mox cannot be -wafted off like a feather. Does he prefer the Yakima to the Nez Percé -Reservation? We have asked him before. We ask him now. Where is his -heart? Camiaken, the Great Chief of the Yakimas, has not spoken at all. -His people have had no voice here to-day. He is not ashamed to speak? He -is not afraid to speak? Then, speak out. Owhi is afraid lest God be -angry at his selling his land. Owhi, my brother! I do not think God will -be angry if you do your best for yourself and your children. Ask -yourself this question to-night. Will not God be angry with me if I -neglect this opportunity to do them good? But Owhi says, his people are -not here. Why then did he tell us, Come, hear our talk? I do not want to -be ashamed of him. Owhi has the heart of his people. We expect him to -speak out. We expect to hear from Camiaken and from Schoom. The treaty -we will have drawn up to-night. You can see it to-morrow. The Nez Percés -must not be put off any longer. This business must be despatched. I hope -that all the other hearts and our hearts will agree. They have asked us -to speak straight. We have spoken straight. We have asked you to speak -straight, but have yet to hear from you." - -The Council did not adjourn till six o'clock. In the evening I rode over -as usual to the Nez Percé camp and found many of them playing cards in -their lodges. They are most inveterate gamblers, and a warrior will -sometimes stake on successive games, his arms, and horses, and even his -wives, so that in a single night he is reduced to a state of primitive -poverty and obliged to trust to charity to be remounted for the hunt. - -In the other camps everything seemed to be in a violent commotion. The -Cayuses and other tribes are very much incensed against the Nez Percés -for agreeing to the terms of the treaty, but fortunately for them, and -probably for us also, the Nez Percés are as numerous as the others -united. - -_Friday, June 8th._—As the Council does not open until noon, our -mornings pass in the same way. Lieutenant Gracie and I practise pistol -shooting, read, and ride about the country, visiting Governor Stevens' -party and at the Mission. - -To-day it was nearly three o'clock before they met. After a few remarks -by Governor Stevens, General Palmer made a long speech addressed to -those Chiefs who refused yesterday to accede to the treaty. He told -them, as they do not wish to go on the Nez Percés Reservation, (the -tribes never having been very friendly to each other,) he would offer -them another Reservation, which would embrace parts of the lands on -which they were now living. After this offer had been clearly explained -to them and considered, all acceded to it, with the exception of one -tribe, the Yakimas. - -It seemed as if we were getting on charmingly and the end of all -difficulties was at hand, when suddenly a new explosive element dropped -down into this little political caldron. Just before the Council -adjourned, an Indian runner arrived with the news that Looking Glass, -the war-chief of the Nez Percés was coming. Half an hour afterwards, he, -with another chief and about twenty warriors, came in. They had just -returned from an incursion into the Blackfoot country, where there had -been some fighting and they had brought back with them, as a trophy, one -scalp, which was dangling from a pole. Governor Stevens and General -Palmer went out to meet them and mutual introductions were made. Looking -Glass then, without dismounting from his horse, made a short and very -violent speech, which I afterwards learned was, as I suspected, an -expression of his indignation at their selling the country. The Council -then adjourned. - -At the races this evening in the Nez Percés camp, we found ten of the -young braves who came in that afternoon, basking in the enjoyment of -their laurels. Dressed in buffalo skins, painted and decorated in the -most fantastic style, they stood in a line on one side of the race -ground, exhibiting themselves as much as possible and singing songs in -honor of their exploits. After the races we rode through the Cayuse -camp. They seemed to be in commotion, apparently making preparation to -depart. - -_Saturday, June 9th._—This morning the old Chief Lawyer, came down and -took breakfast with us. The Council did not meet till three o'clock and -matters seem now to have reached a crisis. The treaty must either be -soon accepted or the tribes will separate in hopeless bad feeling. On -the strength of the assent yesterday given by all the tribes, except the -Yakimas, the papers were drawn up and brought into the Council to be -signed by the principal Chiefs. Governor Stevens once more—for Looking -Glass' benefit—explained the principal points in the treaty, and among -other things told them, there would be three Reservations,—the Cayuses, -the Walla-Wallas and Umatillas to be placed upon one—the Nez Percés on -another—and the Yakimas on the third, and that they were not to be -removed to these Reservations for two or three years. - -Looking Glass then arose and made a strong speech against the treaty, -which had such an effect, that not only the Nez Percés but all the other -tribes refused to sign it. Looking Glass, although nominally only the -second Chief, has more influence than Lawyer and is in reality _the_ -Chief of the different Nez Percé tribes. Governor Stevens and General -Palmer made several speeches to induce him to change his decision, for -should he do so, the other Chiefs would follow his example; but in vain, -and the Council was obliged to adjourn until Monday. In the mean while, -it is supposed that the Commissioners will bring some cogent arguments -to bear upon Looking Glass and induce him to accede to the treaty. - -Near the race ground this evening we found the women collected in -circles on the ground, gambling with the most intense earnestness. Like -the men they will spend hours around the lodge fires, staking every -thing they have on the changes and chances of the game. Near them stood, -as on the last evening, the returned warriors, exhibiting their -fantastic bravery, and apparently thus challenging the applause of the -softer sex. - -We supposed yesterday that we should have started this evening for the -Umatilla, but the prospect now is that we shall be delayed several days -longer. - -_Sunday, June 10th._—We understand there has been great excitement -through the Indian camps to-day. The Nez Percés have been all day long -holding a council among themselves, and it is represented, the -proposition has been made to appoint Looking Glass head Chief over -Lawyer. Yesterday, while Looking Glass was speaking, Lawyer left the -Council without saying anything; which many of them are disposed to -regard as the surrender of his place. Should this proposition be carried -into effect, it would give a quietus to the treaty. - -_Monday, June 11th._—Before breakfast we had a visit from Lawyer with -some other Indians. At ten o'clock the Council met. Governor Stevens -opened it with a short speech, at the close of which he asked the Chiefs -to come forward and sign the papers. This they all did without the least -opposition. What he has been doing with Looking Glass since last -Saturday, we cannot imagine, but we suppose savage nature in the -wilderness is the same as civilized nature was in England in Walpole's -day, and "every man has his price." After this was over, the presents -which General Palmer had brought with him were distributed, and the -Council, like other Legislative bodies, adjourned _sine die_. - -As soon as this business was finished, we at once struck our tents and -began our march towards the Umatilla. On our way, Lieutenant Gracie and -I made our parting visit at the Mission, and then proceeded about -fifteen miles before we encamped for the night. Just as we were -starting, an express arrived from the Dalles, bringing us in letters and -papers. - -We have now ended our connection with the Council and bid adieu to our -Indian friends. It is therefore an appropriate place to say, that we -subsequently discovered we had been all the while unconsciously treading -on a mine. Some of the friendly Indians afterwards disclosed to the -traders, that during the whole meeting of the Council, active -negotiations were on foot to cut off the whites. This plot originated -with the Cayuses, in their indignation at the prospect of being deprived -of their lands. Their programme was, first to massacre the escort, which -could easily have been done. Fifty soldiers against three thousand -Indian warriors, out on the open plain, made rather too great odds. We -should have had time, like Lieutenant Grattan[2] at Fort Laramie, last -season, to have delivered one fire and then the contest would have been -over. Their next move was, to surprise the post at the Dalles, which -they could also easily have done, as most of the troops were withdrawn, -and the Indians in the neighborhood had recently united with them. This -would have been the beginning of their war of extermination upon the -settlers. The only thing which prevented the execution of this scheme -was, the refusal of the Nez Percés to accede to it, and as they were -more powerful than the others united, it was impossible to make this -outbreak without their concurrence. Constant negotiations were going on -between the tribes, but without effect, nor was it discovered by the -whites until after the Council had separated. - -Footnote 2: - - Brevet Second Lieutenant John Lawrence Grattan, Sixth Infantry, was - killed, with all his party, by the Sioux Indians, in what is known as - the "Grattan Massacre," near Fort Laramie, Neb., August 19, 1854.—ED. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -_Tuesday, June 12th._—We were up bright and early this morning, -expecting by sunrise to have been on our march. But some of the horses -had strayed away during the night and it was eight o'clock before they -could be all collected to enable us to set out. After riding thirty -miles we reached the Umatilla. Here we found a sergeant of the 4th -Infantry and five men encamped, who had been sent to meet us with -provisions. Just then a pouring rain began, and we were glad to make our -preparations for the night. - -_Wednesday, June 13th._—I awoke to find it still raining in torrents and -the wind blowing a beautiful accompaniment, as it swept through the -trees which line the banks of the river. Fortunately the sergeant had -brought with him a tent, which was turned over to us, and we remained -tolerably comfortable. In the midst of the storm, however, a visitor -arrived. He was a Mr. Whitney, who is living about a mile from our -encampment, with Mr. McKay, on a claim he is cultivating, belonging to -the latter. He invited Lieutenant Gracie and myself to take tea with -him. About three o'clock it cleared up and we rode over to his -residence, where for the first time in several weeks we had the -satisfaction of seeing some thing which looked like domestic comfort. -Mr. Whitney had his wife and child with him, and he took us over his -garden and showed us his crops. At six o'clock we had tea, after the -manner of civilized people, which was a great luxury to us after our -camp fare in the wilderness. - -Just as we were bidding good night, three of our acquaintances arrived -from the Council ground on their way to the Dalles. We learned from them -that the Indians celebrated a great Scalp Dance the night before, in -which one hundred and fifty of the women took part. The tribes then -broke up their lodges and returned to their own hunting grounds. - -_Thursday, June 14th._—The place where we now are is an old camping -ground, well known to all the Western hunters, being a central spot -where several trails diverge. The emigrant trail passes by it, and -stretches thence over the Blue Mountains, leading to Fort Boisé. Here -Lieutenant Gracie has orders to remain until the arrival of the rest of -the Command, which starts from the Dalles on the twentieth, to enter the -Snake country. He has been, therefore, making arrangements to-day for a -more permanent encampment, as he may be delayed here for a couple of -weeks. The tents have been regularly arranged, our own a little in -advance, and those of the men built of boughs and pack covers, so as to -protect them from the weather. A log house has been erected at one end -of the camp, to hold the provisions, and to-day the men have been -employed in constructing a _corral_, or enclosure, in the California -style, to secure the horses. - -This evening our Indian guide came in. He had been left at the Council -ground to hunt up some stray horses. - -_Friday, June 15th._—Early this morning Lieutenant Gracie sent off the -Indian guide to the Dalles, as he had no further use for him. Mr. -Cut-mouth John has apparently served us faithfully, though being a -Cayuse, we cannot tell how deeply he has been implicated in the -plottings of his countrymen this summer, or what part he would have -taken, had their projected outbreak ripened into action. - -To-day Lieutenant Gracie began to have his drills for the men, one -before breakfast and the other after supper. At the early drill they are -exercised in shooting at a target. This evening, at Mr. McKay's, we met -the old Chief, Stechus, who had stopped there on an expedition after -some missing cattle. He seemed quite pleased to see us. While there, -General Palmer and his party also arrived from the Council ground. - -_Saturday, June 16th._—After drill we rode over to Mr. McKay's and found -General Palmer's party still encamped there, as he was taken ill this -morning. He probably needs rest both of body and mind, and on the -plains, this is the great prescription, as the remedies which the -hunters can give are comprised in a list of very few simples. Nature is -generally expected to perform the cure. Had his illness come on at the -Council, he could have had the "medicine men" of our friends, the Nez -Percés, to prescribe for him. Their prescriptions, however, are always -the same, whatever may be the disease, whether ague or fever, or small -pox. The patient is shut up in a small close lodge, called a "sweating -house," where he is subjected, until almost stifled, to a vapor bath -produced by water slowly poured on red hot stones. - -_Sunday, June 17th._—My last Sunday on the plains, and it passed quietly -enough. After Lieutenant Gracie had finished inspection and we had taken -our usual bath in the river, we rode over to General Palmer's encampment -to enquire after his health. We found him still too unwell to travel. -The rest of the day was spent in reading, for we have found a small -supply of books at Mr. McKay's, which have proven quite a treasure in -the wilderness. - -_Monday, June 18th._—Lieutenant Gracie has commenced practising the men -at skirmish drill for an hour a day, and is thus preparing them for -their Snake country expedition. It has become too hot, except in the -morning and evening, to move about with comfort, and after the drill, -our ride over to Mr. McKay's and our bath in the Umatilla, we are -content to spend the remainder of the day in lounging and reading under -the shelter of our tent. In an encampment on the plains, during the dead -silence of a sultry noon, with no conventional restraints of -civilization about us, we realize more fully than in any other place, -the truth of the Neapolitan maxim—_Dolce far niente_. - -We had to-day a visit from five of the Cayuse Indians, two of whom had -been accustomed to visit us at Walla-Walla. - -_Tuesday, June 19th._—Before we were up we had an arrival of another -party of the Cayuse tribe. Their lodges are in a valley about eight -miles from the camp. They smoked the "pipe of peace" and probably this -time with sincerity, as they knew we had force enough with us to defeat -any attempt they might make. The principal Chief of the Umatillas also -came into our camp and some strange Indians whom we had never before -seen. - -As Lieutenant Gracie is obliged to remain at this camping ground, and it -may be some days before the command arrives from the Dalles, I have -determined myself to proceed on to that post to-morrow in company with -Mr. McKay. I therefore this evening rode over to his place and made my -arrangements for setting off the next morning. - -_Wednesday, June 20th._—This morning a messenger arrived from the Dalles -with papers and the latest news—the latter having been almost forgotten -by this time in the settlements. - -After early drill I took my final leave of the camp. Lieutenant Gracie -rode with me over to Mr. McKay's, where I left my horse, as he belonged -to the command, transferring my saddle and bridle to one of Mr. McKay's, -which I am to ride. And here Lieutenant Gracie and I parted. We have -been companions for weeks by day and night, and in this his first -independent command, (in many incidents which I could not relate in this -brief journal,) he has established, with those at the Council who were -accustomed to military expeditions in the Indian country, a character -for decision and energy which gives the promise of distinction in much -wider and more responsible scenes of action in the future. - -We set off about half-past nine o'clock. Mr. McKay and myself, with two -boys whose business was to drive the pack mules. Our traveling -arrangements were made in the old Spanish-California style, still common -in those parts of the country where horses are plenty. Besides those we -rode, were seven or eight which ran loose and were driven by the boys, -to be used when our own began to flag. - -We crossed the Umatilla at once, and on the opposite side striking the -trail on which we had gone into the interior, commenced our return -westward. After riding for about twenty miles we reached the Indian -Agency. Here, two of the other horses were caught, our saddles and -bridles transferred to them, and the tired ones turned loose to follow -with the rest. Then, on we went until five in the evening when we -encamped for the night at Wells' Springs, having traveled during the day -fifty-five miles. - -_Thursday, June 21st._—We were on our way this morning by five o'clock. -On the trail we passed every little while solitary graves, the last -resting places of some unfortunate emigrants. The road from Missouri to -the Rocky Mountains can almost be traced by these sad memorials, and no -human language can convey an idea of the sorrow and suffering which has -taken place on the plains, caused by this rush to the land of gold. -About ten miles on our way we met a portion of the 4th Infantry and 3d -Artillery under Lieutenants Day, Hodges and Mendell. At noon we halted -at Willow Creek, (seventeen miles from Wells' Springs,) for several -hours, to rest our horses. We then pushed on until eight in the evening, -when we reached John Day's River, where a refreshing bath recompensed us -for our long and hot ride. We had ridden to-day about forty-five miles. - -_Friday, June 22d._—We left John Day's River about seven o'clock, and -after riding twelve miles, met Major Haller, (Commander of the -expedition,) and Captain Russell, 4th Infantry, with their escort, with -whom we stopped for a short time. Soon afterwards we met another -detachment of troops, with two or three wagons, each drawn by six mules. -About noon we struck the Columbia River, whose solitary banks were quite -enlivened by the long trains of wagons containing the provisions of the -detachment. We counted twenty-four, half of which were on one side of -the river and half on the other. The different detachments and wagons -will all meet at the camping ground on the Umatilla where we left -Lieutenant Gracie. There will be about one hundred and fifty mounted men -besides the packers and wagoners. After resting for a couple of hours on -the Columbia, we set out for the Dalles, where we arrived at five -o'clock. Here we found Lieutenant Dryer, who is to set out to-morrow -morning and join the command as Quarter Master. - -And thus ended my expedition into the wilderness. It has shown me the -rough side of army life, and yet the time has passed pleasantly from the -very novelty and freshness of everything. And now, amid all the -refinements of civilization, I cannot but look back with something like -regret to the freedom of our little camp on the quiet plains, where no -sound was heard to break our slumber, but the steady tread of our -sentinel or the rippling of the Umatilla. - - - - - _FINIS_ - - - - - Transcriber's Notes. - -Some punctuation, accentuation, spacing, hyphenation and spelling have -been corrected, but where the original spelling variations appear more -than once they have been retained. - -Italicized words and phrases are presented by surrounding the text with -underscores. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Indian Council in the Valley of -the Walla-Walla. 1855, by Lawrence Kip - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDIAN COUNCIL--WALLA WALLA, 1855 *** - -***** This file should be named 53128-0.txt or 53128-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/1/2/53128/ - -Produced by readbueno, Donald Cummings, Bryan Ness and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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