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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Frijoles: A Hidden Valley in the New World, by
-Jerome William Hendron
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Frijoles: A Hidden Valley in the New World
-
-Author: Jerome William Hendron
-
-Editor: Dorothy Thomas
-
-Illustrator: Jocelyn Taylor
-
-Release Date: September 7, 2016 [EBook #52997]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FRIJOLES: A HIDDEN VALLEY ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
- FRIJOLES
- A Hidden Valley in the New World
-
-
- _by_
-
- J. W. Hendron
-
-
- _Edited by_
- DOROTHY THOMAS
-
- _Drawings by_
- JOCELYN TAYLOR
-
-
- THE RYDAL PRESS, INC., SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO
- 1946
-
- _Copyright, 1946, by J. W. Hendron
- All rights reserved.
- Manufactured by The Rydal Press, Inc., Santa Fe, New Mexico, U.S.A._
-
- [Illustration: NORTHWESTERN NEW MEXICO]
-
-
-
-
- FRIJOLES,
- A Hidden Valley in the New World
-
-
-
-
- THE POTSHERD
-
-
- To a layman like me it helps a lot
- To know a potsherd is just a piece of broken pot;
- To know, behind the talk of color, shade, design,
- It helped a hungry aborigine to dine;
- To see in this broken bit of clay
- A brown-skinned baby, clumsy at his play
- Cuffed by a weary mother, and whimpering so
- Because he broke a dish a thousand years ago!
- Hugh M. Miller
-
- By special permission of
- _New Mexico Magazine_.
- Printed June, 1936.
-
-
-
-
- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
-
-
-My grateful acknowledgements are due to Dr. H. P. Mera and Mr. Stanley
-Stubbs of the Laboratory of Anthropology, Santa Fe, for their expert
-advice and criticism in their respective fields; Dr. Leslie Spier,
-Professor of Anthropology, University of New Mexico, for his helpful
-suggestions; the late Professor Lansing B. Bloom, Professor of History,
-University of New Mexico, for helpful information on history; Mrs.
-Evelyn C. Frey, Bandelier National Monument; Mrs. M. H. Sharp, for the
-many hours she gave to patient listening and constructive suggestion;
-Mr. Wayne Mauzy, Museum of New Mexico, for permission to use photographs
-and cuts; Mr. Natt Dodge, Region Three Office, National Park Service,
-for his helpful suggestions and time spent in obtaining cuts; my Mother,
-Mrs. J. H. Hendron, for her encouragement and assistance; and to all
-others who rendered services.
-
-
- _For my wife_
- “MISSIE”
- who made this book possible by her patient listening and constructive
- criticism.
-
-
-
-
- TABLE OF CONTENTS
-
-
- CHAPTER PAGE
- I. Some Twenty Years Ago 1
- II. The Pueblo Indian Meets The White Man 6
- III. Tyuonyi 18
- IV. Building In The Great Period 32
- V. Living In The Great Period 55
- VI. Cliff Dwellers Again 66
- VII. The Spanish Era 76
- VIII. Present Times 79
- Source Material 83
- Glossary 85
- Index 90
-
-
-
-
- INTRODUCTION
-
-
-Because of my association with the beautiful Canyon of the Rito de Los
-Frijoles in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico, and because of my
-deep interest in this Monument, the loose ends of a story, about the
-primitive people who made it their home, have been shaping themselves
-into a history beginning in America long before either Spaniards or
-Englishmen came to this country.
-
-The material is based upon the work of many students who have done
-actual research in Frijoles Canyon and adjacent areas. It is a
-combination of legendary material, observation, speculation, scientific
-fact and logic. The text in the following pages is not presented as
-absolute and unquestionable fact in its entirety, and the author does
-not intend that it be interpreted that way. There will be some, no
-doubt, who, for the sake of convenience, will mutter indiscreetly about
-its content—that it isn’t scientific—as if the book had been intended
-for the exact scientist. Rather, it is meant for the lay reader who
-visits the Monument area and who would like to understand some of the
-customs and ways of life of its ancient inhabitants. This ancient world
-of the cliff dweller of New Mexico is recreated for the visitor through
-the firing of his imagination by an understanding of the archæological
-facts revealed here.
-
-Until a great amount of research is done, a more accurate account of the
-archæology of this area will not be had. But because of the thousands of
-visitors to Bandelier National Monument each year, and their interest in
-its ancient inhabitants, this popular narrative is presented. Throughout
-the text are many uncommon words and names used frequently in New
-Mexico. The reader will find a helpful list of these with simplified
-pronunciations and meanings at the end of the book.
-
-
-
-
- FRIJOLES,
- A HIDDEN VALLEY IN THE NEW WORLD
-
-
-
-
- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
- FACING PAGE
- Looking Up the Canyon From Ceremonial Cave xvi
- The Old North Trail 1
- Bandelier National Monument and Vicinity 8
- The Painted Cave 14
- Stone Lions of Cochiti 15
- Ruins of Long House 30
- A Part of Long House Ruins 31
- Artist’s Restoration of Puwige 42
- Aerial View of Puwige.—Restored 43
- Ceremonial Cave 44
- Kiva in Ceremonial Cave 45
- A Section of Long House 60
- Reconstructed Cliff House 60
- Ruins of Puwige 61
- Ruins of Large Kiva 61
- The Author at an Old Hidden Trail 76
- A Party of Visitors at Long House 77
-
-
-
-
- PLATES
- (in pocket)
-
-
- Large Kiva. Ground Plan
- Large Kiva. Section Drawings
- Ceremonial Cave. Ground Plan
- Ceremonial Cave. Section Drawings
- Ground Plan of Frijoles Canyon. Ruins Area
- Northern Wall of Frijoles Canyon
-
-
- [Illustration: PHOTO BY GEORGE THOMPSON LOOKING UP THE CANYON FROM
- CEREMONIAL CAVE]
-
- [Illustration: PHOTO BY U.S. FOREST SERVICE THE OLD NORTH TRAIL]
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER I
- Some Twenty Years Ago
-
-
-It has been some twenty odd years since I, as a child, first peered over
-the north rim of Frijoles Canyon. This was not so long ago when one
-thinks of the hundreds of others, still alive, who passed this way
-before me. I do not pretend to be an ancient but the number of
-individuals who saw the Frijoles in those days are microscopic when
-compared with the multitudes who have seen it since. There is not
-sufficient room here to discuss those who knew the place in the early
-days, long before my time, except to mention such personages as Adolph
-Bandelier, Charles Lummis, H. P. Mera, Edgar L. Hewett, Sylvanus G.
-Morley, A. V. Kidder, Jesse Nusbaum, Kenneth Chapman and many others who
-have distinguished themselves in the field of archæology or related
-fields. They all knew the place in its infancy, so to speak, and have
-contributed their share to the story of primitive Pueblo Indians who
-lived in the Valley of the Rito de Los Frijoles in times anterior to the
-coming of the Spanish.
-
-As I remember it, there was a short-cut road into the Frijoles, little
-more than a cow path which left the Albuquerque-Santa Fe highway just on
-top of La Bajada Hill. It must have been fifteen miles across La Bajada
-Mesa west to the Rio Grande. Over the rolling hills of mesa-land the
-gears of our car ground a good part of the way in low until the little
-settlement of Buckman on the banks of the Rio Grande was reached. A man
-by this name, Buckman, used to cut and haul timber from the high
-potreros; he built a sawmill, and also a narrow bridge across the river
-here. It was a rickety old bridge with planks for runners but we got
-across. The winding, bumpy road led us up a steep climb from the Rio
-Grande to the forested land extending toward the high mountains. Once on
-top the mesa we drove between two of many high potreros and on into
-Water Canyon where the road followed the narrow valley for a few miles.
-We crossed a winding creek several times and drove through green
-pastures until the high-walled canyon became narrow.
-
-Presently, the road turned to the left winding up the side of the
-mountain. Fortunately it was not muddy or we might never have made the
-steep grade. Once on top of the plateau the road headed south and a
-little west in the direction of Frijoles Canyon a few miles distant. We
-wound through majestic yellow pines, piñons and scrubby junipers. Here
-the road turned again and paralleled the Canyon for a few miles, up and
-down hills, ever twisting and turning. We drove to the top of an old
-trail which might have been used by ancient Indians some four hundred
-years ago. I walked to the brink of the Canyon, my mother constantly
-reminding me not to go too near. The height was terrific. It must have
-been six hundred feet to the bottom of the gorge—almost straight down.
-It made me dizzy. I had never seen such a thing before in all my life.
-It was to me a Hidden Valley and I wondered why any people wanted to
-come away out here to live—even prehistoric Indians. Of course, it was
-awe-inspiring but I was too young to be inspired.
-
-There were saddle horses at the brink of the Canyon for folk who
-couldn’t or who were too lazy to walk down the trail. And then there
-were benches and tables underneath the pines for picnickers who wanted
-to eat either before they began the long descent into the valley, or
-after they returned from it. For years and years people walked or rode
-horseback up and down the steep old trail. Perhaps some never reached
-the bottom. Individuals came from all over the world. Some painted, some
-viewed, some fished, some wrote and some prayed to God that they might
-make it back to the top. Others, enthralled by the grandeur of the
-Canyon, desired to cast themselves off its rim into the mystery of its
-depth. I myself distinctly remember climbing down that old winding trail
-from the north rim. It seemed that we would never reach the bottom. The
-trail was a precipitous one, zigzagging and narrow, to the valley floor
-far below.
-
-At a short distance across the narrow Rito we could see a little stone
-ranch house surrounded by huge pine trees and box-elders. A woman was
-standing on the porch probably wondering if we were to be guests for the
-night at the famous “Ten Elder Ranch.” But my father and I were fishing
-for mountain trout, and, if I remember correctly, it was he who caught
-the limit because he was the fisherman, not I. I might have been
-included among those unschooled people who had in their blood simply the
-desire for “pioneering” and “roughing-it,” but who understood little
-about what they saw.
-
-This excursion of ours took place when roads in New Mexico were almost
-nil. A buckboard would have been better than an automobile with high
-pressure tires which blew out about twice a day. We broke an axle on the
-way home and had to spend the night on La Bajada Mesa between the Rio
-Grande and the highway in what was locally known as “Old Man Pankey’s
-Pastures.” The Valley of the Frijoles impressed me, then a little boy,
-and, I well remember the hundreds of smoke-blackened caves hewn out of
-the soft cliffs by Indians sometime in the dim past. But I knew not the
-significance of these caves. I knew nothing of the story of how
-prehistoric Indians lived four hundred years ago. They were merely
-blackened holes to me occupied by a people about whom I knew little. I
-remember the ruins of the big community house. It was located across the
-little river from the stone ranch house. I thought it foolish for
-Indians to build houses out in the sun when there were so many shade
-trees close to the Rito. I now believe that this first visit of my
-childhood created within me the desire to solve for myself the questions
-then arising in my mind concerning the Canyon. Since that time hundreds
-of famous personages have passed this way: artists, archæologists,
-doctors, botanists, psychologists, statesmen, preachers, governors,
-engineers, students and romancers, each finding satisfaction in his own
-particular line of interest.
-
-Life in this place two decades ago can best be described by the owner of
-the old ranch, Mrs. Evelyn C. Frey, who has made Frijoles Canyon her
-home for twenty odd years. She can tell some very interesting stories
-about the early days. She knows the country and the trails, the flowers
-and the birds; and she still calls folks, who live thirty miles away,
-her neighbors. She recalls many lonely hours spent with her baby in the
-stillness of the Canyon. She remembers how the sun would go down over
-the south cliff at twelve noon and then how the day would change toward
-cold evenings and bitter winter nights. Ofttimes a howling wind would
-arise, then followed a calm, and in the morning a foot of deep snow. And
-there was no way out of the valley except over the old north trail. She
-tells how deer pranced around in full view, unafraid. Wild turkeys
-rested upon the wall behind the old ranch place and could be seen from
-her kitchen window. But she was never afraid and said she knew how to
-use a six-shooter if she had to. Mrs. Frey had told me many times, how,
-after a rough and tiresome drive from Santa Fe over fire trails, all
-supplies were packed on horses and mules and brought down to the floor
-of the Canyon.
-
-A heavy pack mule, once upon a time, loaded with lumber, just didn’t
-make one of the sharp turns in the trail. It dropped one hundred fifty
-feet and went to mule heaven, bumping from first one level to another,
-lumber and all. The carcass was left for the scavengers of the air to
-feast upon. Mrs. Frey has described how she often bundled her tiny baby
-up in blankets to protect it from the cold on bitter winter nights, and,
-bearing the child in her arms she herself had swung into the saddle at
-the top of the old trail. The narrow path was covered with snow all the
-way down, and although she was afraid, the faithful horse had always
-carried them safely to their home.
-
-The time came when pack horses were replaced by a cable-way strung from
-the north cliff to the floor of the Canyon. It was a thousand feet long
-and the tram-car was operated by a gasoline engine. This was the way
-supplies were brought in for the operation of the dude ranch—even the
-winter’s supply of wood. It was not until 1933 that the old trail was
-abandoned. At this time an automobile road was blasted from the side of
-the steep cliff in the lower end of Frijoles Canyon.
-
-The history, if written, might prove far more interesting to many people
-than the prehistory. There would be some interesting tales to tell about
-folk and their affairs, but our main concern is with the prehistory. I
-do not think I exaggerate the situation when I say, despite a visitor’s
-interest or profession, most guests have come to Frijoles to visit the
-hundreds of ruins of homes built by the ancestors of some of our
-present-day Pueblo Indians. The Canyon and its extensive cliff dwellings
-and pueblo ruins are well-known the world over. Neolithic people, stone
-age people with implements of bone and stone and wood, lived here in
-ancient times and when they deserted their homes in the cliffs and on
-the valley floor, they left one of the most outstanding and spectacular
-sites in the southwestern part of America to be preserved for posterity.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER II
- The Pueblo Indian Meets the White Man
-
-
-Could there be, in the Southwest, a man or woman who has not heard
-something of the Spanish expeditions into the New World during the
-sixteenth century? And, narrowing it down, about Coronado’s famed Seven
-Cities of Cibola and how they turned out to be six instead of seven poor
-little pueblos of stone and mud. They are now reduced to but one called
-Zuñi. Marcos de Nisa, a Franciscan friar, had led the little army of
-conquerors to nothing here except grief and disappointment in trade for
-fabulous stories about gold and silver.
-
-New Mexico was a new country and besides extending the domain of His
-Majesty, King Charles, and forcing Christianity on the Indians, there
-were many wonders that would stand investigation. Had it not been for an
-Indian who was named Bigotes by the Spaniards, the conquerors might
-never have reached the Rio Grande during that expedition. Bigotes means
-“whiskers” and his appearance must have been a sight to His Majesty’s
-soldiers when this half-clad native came strolling into their camp with
-a few companions from Pecos far to the east. Unlike most of his kind,
-Bigotes wore a long mustache. He had brought buffalo hides to trade to
-the Spanish and he persuaded them to visit his country. It was on August
-29, 1540, that the little band pushed out under the guidance of Bigotes.
-On September 7 of that year they reached the Province of Tiguex, which
-was between the present towns of Albuquerque and Bernalillo.
-
-There were twelve Indian villages on the banks of the Rio Grande within
-a distance of some fifteen miles or so. The Rio Grande was described by
-the Spanish, at that time, as large and mighty in a spacious valley two
-leagues wide. Although the valley was broad and fertile, the Spanish
-description was certainly an over-estimation. Two leagues equalled five
-or six miles. They also said that the river froze so hard that laden
-animals and carts could cross over it. Tiguex was the winter camp of the
-entire Spanish expedition. It was here that Coronado and his band of
-weary and disappointed explorers spent that miserable and
-never-to-be-forgotten winter of 1540-1541. Glowing accounts of how
-Indians lived were told by the romantic Spanish chroniclers. Still, they
-found only a poor simple people living by the soil and a little
-hunting—but no gold.
-
-Tiguex was not the only province along the river. There were others
-whose people had the same ways and peculiar customs as the people at the
-Tiguex villages. One of these provinces was that of Quirex. It has been
-determined that this was the district where the Keres language is spoken
-today by five very primitive Indian Pueblos. They are Cochiti, Santo
-Domingo, San Felipe, Santa Ana and Sia. Moved by an indomitable spirit
-and determination, a small band of soldiers pushed far north from
-Tiguex, past the Keres-speaking villages where another province was
-discovered on the upper Rio Grande. It was reported that two very fine
-villages were to be seen. According to some students these were in the
-vicinity of the present Tewa-speaking village of San Juan. The entire
-Indian population moved out at the sight of the Spanish. They retreated
-into the mountains where they said they had four very strong villages in
-a rough country where it was impossible for the Spanish to follow on
-horseback. Had they followed these people they would, no doubt, have
-found almost inaccessible Indian trails. Instead, they returned to
-Tiguex and left this northern province in peace. Little did the Spanish
-realize what extensive villages they might have seen in the rough
-mountains mentioned by the Indians.
-
-Indians also spoke of villages on rivers flowing into the Rio Grande.
-Could these villages have been on the banks of the Rio Chama or were
-they on the Pajarito Plateau? They likely were in the Pajarito region
-and could have been the same villages mentioned by the Indians living
-near San Juan. But the towns of the Pajarito remained unexplored,
-unplundered and unstripped of what little they had. How fortunate were
-these people to have escaped the attentions of the Spanish with their
-shining armor, pointed lances and firearms. Otherwise, these poor
-Indians might have found themselves without adequate clothing and food
-for the approaching winter of 1541-1542 as did the Indians at Tiguex.
-But the passing of that second uneventful winter by disheartened and
-spirit-broken Spanish soldiers ended a chapter which was never to be
-forgotten by the other little pueblo dwellers. In the spring of 1542,
-the remnants of the Spanish were gathered together and the return to
-Mexico was begun. This must have been a day of rejoicing for the Indians
-at Tiguex. They had experienced a great deal. Murder, insincerity on the
-part of the Spanish, and violation of their living standards were just a
-few of their trials.
-
-Life went on in the pueblos. Slowly but surely the Indians reorganized.
-Summers and winters passed and the Indians tilled their fields of corn
-for two generations before the Spanish came again. This next expedition
-up the Rio Grande in 1581 was that of Captain Francisco Sanchez
-Chamuscado with nine soldiers. This combined treasure-hunt and
-missionary expedition ended in tragedy. Chamuscado died before he
-returned to Mexico, and two padres, who accompanied the little party,
-were murdered by the Indians at Tiguex. So elated were the Indians with
-their success that they drew pictures of the killings.
-
- [Illustration: BANDELIER NAT’L MONUMENT & VICINITY]
-
-Dreams of conquest and fabulous empires caused the launching of still
-another expedition into New Mexico in 1583. It was headed by Antonio de
-Espejo. Espejo, too, passed northward from the villages of the Province
-of Tiguex which had been visited by Coronado some forty years before and
-by Chamuscado in 1581. This little handful went north to a place called
-Cachiti. This was one of the pueblos of the Keres-speaking group
-mentioned by Coronado. People who were peaceful came from other pueblos
-and tried to persuade the Spanish to go with them. They told stories of
-most of the houses being three stories high. The Spanish named this
-place Los Confiados because the people were not disturbed. But where was
-Los Confiados? It has never been determined.
-
-It would be a guess to say where these other Indians came from. It has
-been suggested that they might have come from villages on the Jemez
-River when they heard of the arrival of the Spanish. There is still
-another explanation which is also conjectural but possible. These people
-could have come from villages in the mountains. Archæologists and
-historians are unable to give us the exact extent of the Keres villages
-in those days although careful study and research suggest that only
-seven remained extant at the time of the Spanish Conquest. Yet, who can
-say that towns were not still being occupied back in the hills? On the
-forested mesa tops and in the deep water-worn canyons northwest of
-Cachiti, the Indian Pueblo known today as Cochiti, are hundreds of
-Indian villages now in ruins. They were occupied, hundreds of years ago,
-by Indians who were probably speaking the Keres language like the folks
-at Cochiti, Santo Domingo, San Felipe, Santa Ana and Sia. These people
-have told some interesting tales, legends mostly, about how all their
-present villages came to be: about their wanderings, about their Gods
-and about their troubles with Indians who spoke different languages.
-
-Why was it that Espejo’s chroniclers did not leave us more information
-about the town of Los Confiados and its people? Was it not important?
-They told us about Zuñi and its Seven Cities, about the Tiguex villages
-and Cochiti. Coronado’s little group, some forty years before, had
-visited the Province of Hemes, now Jemez, whose people spoke yet another
-language, the Towa. And history tells us that Espejo made a two-day
-visit to the town of Los Confiados in 1583. This ended his contact with
-the Indians at Cochiti and other Keres-speaking villages. Could it be
-that Espejo’s soldiers looked back up into those forbidden and forested
-hills against a high range of snow-covered mountains northwest of
-Cochiti and decided that they had seen enough of the Indian? Or were
-they told that they would have to leave their horses behind and go afoot
-if they wanted to visit the villages on streams running into the Rio
-Grande? The thought of wearing heavy armor might not have been too
-fascinating. And if these people were from villages in the mountains,
-what was their motive in attempting to lead the Spanish there? Was it a
-trap? Did they have some other motive in mind, or was their mission one
-of peaceful intent? Archæologists now tell us that it probably has been
-centuries since Keres-speaking people lived in these mountains northwest
-of Cochiti.
-
-If one had sufficient imaginative ability he might work up a
-hypothetical case of what could possibly have taken place during this
-February of 1583. To get at the basis of our story and the things to be
-talked about hypothesis seems to be our only recourse. Nothing seems
-exact when dealing with early New Mexican history, but this hypothesis
-could be as correct, possibly, as some of the accounts given by the
-Spanish possessed of romanticism. But how close were the explorers to
-Hidden Valley, the like of which they would never again be able to see!
-They stayed clear of the mountains and kept to the valleys. In all of
-their travels and wanderings, the Spanish kept out of the watershed
-between the Jemez Mountain Range and the Rio Grande Valley. It is today
-known as the Pajarito (little bird) Plateau. The Cañada de Cochiti is
-its southern boundary, not far from the pueblo of Cochiti. The Rio
-Grande bounds it on the east, the Rio Chama on the north and the Jemez
-Mountains on the west. The entire plateau is made up of deposits of soft
-volcanic ash, known as tuff, and deposits of black basalt. Geologists
-tell us that all this happened an inconceivably long time ago—three
-million years, let us say, in geological times known as the Pliocene and
-Pleistocene periods.
-
-Today the Pajarito Plateau is a profusion of high potreros (narrow mesas
-), and deep canyons cut by streams and arroyos which carry off seasonal
-rains. Some of the canyons have sheer vertical cliffs of volcanic ash,
-hundreds of feet high in places, and this ash is soft enough to be
-carved and hewn into various shapes and forms. The cliffs are even soft
-enough for the wind to carve what appear to be statues which stand out
-as exceptional works of nature. The mesa tops are beautiful. They are
-covered with thick growths of pine and juniper, piñon and scrub oak. A
-profusion of flowers dot the landscape during the summer months.
-
-It was the Pajarito Plateau that both Coronado and Espejo failed to
-plunder, not because of any lack of desire on their part, perhaps, but
-because it was a forbidden land to them and was marked by defying cliff
-boundaries which rose to terrific heights. Could one say that the
-Spanish did not wonder what these hills possessed when they heard about
-villages on streams which ran into the Rio Grande? And no doubt, if
-these peaceful people, whom the Spanish followed to Los Confiados, were
-of the Keres nation—and they likely were—then they knew every valley,
-stream, trail and water hole in the Pajarito country. Espejo dispatched
-some of his men to accompany these Indians. Where were they led? Did
-they go up into the sandy foothills below the Jemez Mountains and its
-finger-like plateaus or did they penetrate almost inaccessible territory
-northwest of Cochiti? Or did they march straight north up the almost
-inaccessible White Rock Canyon of the Rio Grande? They were gone two
-days from the pueblo of Cochiti. Where did they go? Where was this town
-of Los Confiados to which Espejo was invited and about which he gave us
-no fact?
-
-The Keres-speaking people are possessed with legends of having been
-driven from the Pajarito by a race of “dwarfs” at some time in the
-remote past. But no one is sure that this race of “dwarfs” was not the
-Tewa-speaking people from the northern part of the Pajarito region who
-descended into Frijoles Canyon and drove the Keres from their Hidden
-Valley long before the Spanish came to America. Nor can one be certain
-that Keres people were not still living in Frijoles Canyon with the
-Tewas during Coronado’s time in 1540 or even some forty years later
-during Espejo’s time. Could one go so far as to suggest that Keres
-groups still remembered how their ancestors perhaps had been driven from
-their homes by “the little strong people” and that now they could have a
-well-earned revenge by directing the attentions of the Spanish toward
-the Valley of the Frijoles?
-
-Had Espejo been gullible enough, and had the spirit of adventure been
-strong enough; had it been summer and not February, and had these
-peaceful Indians been Keres bent on revenge against the Tewas, his
-soldiers might have been led northwest up the Cañada de Cochiti. After
-an hour or so the trail would have become so difficult that the Indian
-method of travel would have been an issue. Horses would have been left
-behind and the little party would have ascended to the potrero tops on
-foot; over snow-covered precipitous trails; up and down canyon walls and
-deep into ancient Keres land.
-
-It would have been no “picnic” even on foot. So rough is the country it
-is even doubted that the wily Navaho used these trails as has been so
-often suggested. The Keres might have picked a more direct route; up the
-banks of the Rio Grande to the mouth of Capulin Canyon, over high
-potreros, following a dim rough trail which skirted the Rio Grande for
-several miles then north to the mesa bordering Frijoles Canyon. And it
-is quite possible that the Spanish could have gone horseback deep into
-Keres territory, up Capulin Canyon to La Cueva Pintada, the Painted
-Cave. The cave gets its name from the many pictographs on its walls.
-Around it are the ruins of many houses built against the cliff at the
-top of the talus slope. Some of the Indian legends have it that the
-Painted Cave was one of six towns occupied when their ancestors were
-driven from the Valley of the Frijoles.
-
-Travel from the Painted Cave on into Keres land probably would have been
-on foot. Up the rough Capulin Canyon [** Error: possible line-wrapped
-glossary phrase]for an hour’s march, over snow-covered potrero tops,
-they would have passed the ruins of innumerable villages. There they
-might have rested and drunk the icy water from a running creek during
-this cold month of February. And from there they made their way up to
-the potrero tops again, winding and twisting, half walking and half
-climbing and stopping somewhere, in a cave perhaps, to spend the night.
-And then they marched on to the pueblo of the Stone Lions, now bleak and
-desolate and worn by time. The pueblo of the Stone Lions, according to
-the Cochitenos, was the first village built and occupied by the
-Keres-speaking people after they were driven from the Valley of the
-Frijoles. The village is known as Yapashi which means “sacred
-enclosure.”
-
-Only a half-mile away is the Stone Lions Shrine. Carved out of native
-tuff are the life-size images of two mountain lions and around them is
-an enclosure—a low wall of blocks of volcanic tuff. It is said that even
-the Zuñi Indians made pilgrimages to this shrine because they believed
-this to be the entrance to Shipapolima, the underworld from which their
-ancestors emerged. It is important even today to the Cochitenos who
-visit it frequently and leave bits of their ceremonial paraphernalia.
-Moving along slowly, Espejo’s little party would have trudged up the
-slopes to the high potrero tops again and then across the steep-walled
-Canyon del Alamo. They would have had a long march to Frijoles over
-trails known only to Indians. No, this could hardly have happened. The
-Spanish might never have survived.
-
-Had these Keres-led Spanish peered into the Frijoles—known to Indians as
-Tyuonyi—this Hidden Valley in the New World, they would have seen the
-unbelievable. They would have looked into a valley six hundred feet deep
-and several hundred feet across. The opposite or north side was a sheer
-perpendicular cliff of pinkish rock. There were houses terraced high in
-the air, three or four stories at the base of the cliff. There were cave
-openings in the cliff, over some of the houses, which led out to open
-porches built of poles and brush. Small houses of stone and mud extended
-up and down the north wall of the Canyon almost as far as the human eye
-could see. People were walking around, microscopic in size because of
-the distance, climbing up and down tiny ladders to and from the tops of
-their houses. They were clothed in cotton cloth, hides and furs.
-
-In the center of the valley, seemingly equidistant from both sides, was
-a huge circular house comprised of many small rooms, one on top of
-another, with tiny ladders extending from the ground to the roofs.
-Indians were going in and out of small roof openings. Their house was a
-veritable fort of primitive style. Four hundred rooms, or more, were
-built in the form of a circle. The structure had an opening or hallway
-through one side which led to an inner court or plaza. A sentry was
-stationed inside the entrance which was a high, thick wall built in the
-shape of a semi-circle with a narrow opening. A lone Indian, or maybe
-two, with bow and arrow in hand, might have been seen carrying a deer
-down a narrow trail. Queer looking creatures were these Indians with
-long stringy hair tied down by a band around their foreheads. They wore
-moccasins of deer skin on their feet. Kilts covered their thighs. They
-could have been a short muscular sort of people much the same as our
-modern pueblo dwellers. But they were known as the “pygmies” or “the
-little strong people.”
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO THE PAINTED CAVE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO STONE LIONS OF COCHITI]
-
-Smoke emerged from tiny openings in the roofs. Occasionally an Indian
-woman would appear, black hair stringing and her body draped with a
-manta of cotton cloth or animal skins. The bark of a dog or the gobble
-of a turkey which the Indians had domesticated might have broken the
-silence. The waters of the little river far below could be heard rolling
-over and onward toward the Rio Grande. The occasional thud of a boulder
-was heard as it bumped down stream.
-
-Only one side of the valley was occupied—the north side. The south side
-was covered with trees, bare now because winter was here. The south wall
-of the Canyon was not as conducive to habitation as the north because it
-was worn down at a sharp angle. There were no vertical cliffs from which
-to carve out caves and no talus slopes on which to build little houses
-of stone and mud. No sun directed its rays toward the south cliff. The
-snow lay there all winter and helped cut it down at a sharp angle from
-top to bottom. The north side was sunny and dry—a perfect place for
-habitation.
-
-There were not many people here during these last years of the sixteenth
-century. Great numbers had gone: but where, and why? A few cronies could
-have been seen crouching against stone houses at the base of the cliff,
-basking in the afternoon sun. A woman or two could have been grinding
-corn on flat stone slabs inside a cliff house, keeping time to a weird
-monotonous chant sung by old men as they pounded drums. Things were
-hanging from the ends of roof poles protruding through the front walls
-of houses—perhaps a piece of highly prized venison. House tops were
-strewn with corncobs. A weather-beaten corn field had spent itself.
-
-This was the valley known to the Keres as “Tyuonyi.” It was the place
-where their people had lived only a few generations before. It was a
-valley over which most any group of primitive people would fight and was
-a place where the water supply was constant except in times of intense
-drought. Tyuonyi is a Keres word which signifies a treaty or contract
-and was so-called because of a treaty made with Tewa-speaking people
-years before, marking it as the boundary between Keres and Tewa
-territory. But who was to occupy Tyuonyi, the Hidden Valley and the most
-ideal spot on all the Pajarito Plateau? It seems that the Tewas (the
-little strong people) were the ones who occupied it until the very last.
-This was perhaps the reason why the Keres became envious and that is why
-to this day they retain a feeling of criticism for the Tewa-speaking
-people. Legend has it that relations between the two groups in
-prehistoric times were normally unfriendly.
-
-No Spanish expedition ever reached Hidden Valley, or at least,
-archæologists have never found anything to indicate such a visit. And I
-repeat, the Spanish expeditions clung to the low valleys and kept away
-from the mountains. Tyuonyi then, is our subject. The Spanish never
-visited it and if they ever heard of its extensive settlement by Pueblo
-Indians direct mention was never made of it. It was a Hidden Valley in
-the New World occupied before recorded history began in America. And
-today its ruins are mellowed with age. It has yet to give up all its
-secrets about the cliff dweller who hewed three hundred caves from its
-north cliff with stone axes and knives, and built over twice as many
-small houses at its base. They constructed five community villages on
-its floor, and raised corn and beans and squash and pumpkins. And in so
-doing, these prehistoric pueblo and cave dwellers, and I might say
-historic, too, left in Hidden Valley so much material evidence about the
-way they lived that in 1916 the entire area, including some of the
-ancient Keres land to the south, was created a National Monument. Later,
-a detached section of ancient Tewa territory, a few miles to the north,
-was added to the area. It is known today as Bandelier National Monument
-and is comprised of some 27,000 acres.
-
-The thousands of interested visitors, who go to Bandelier every year to
-prowl through the ruined homes located in the Valley of the Frijoles,
-spend an hour or so turning the clock back to Neolithic times when man
-had only bone, stone and wood tools with which to work. They relax in
-Hidden Valley—and in imagination try to reconstruct the story connected
-with these ruins which hold so closely the secrets of the past.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER III
- Tyuonyi
-
-
-Could one be so bold as to say that the Moslem Invasion of Spain in the
-eighth century A.D. took place after the first occupation of the Rio
-Grande Valley by prehistoric Indians? Archæologists, who tell us stories
-based on the remains of things they have found, broken pottery mostly,
-say that Indians might have known the Rio Grande before this time. We
-believe that they have occupied it continuously since about the eleventh
-century A.D.
-
-Drought seems to have always been one of the main controlling factors in
-the migrations of Southwestern Indians. The study of tree-rings tells us
-this. By matching ring patterns formed by the annual growth of certain
-kinds of trees, pines chiefly, archæologists are able to determine the
-years in which age-old timbers were cut. Those they are interested in
-are the ones used by prehistoric Indians long years ago for building
-roofs on their houses. So naturally, if an Indian had cut a tree down
-with a stone axe and laid it across the walls of his house, then the
-year that the tree was cut would correspond to the approximate time his
-house was built and occupied. Indians did not cut timbers until they
-were ready to use them. Felling timbers with crude stone axes was
-somewhat of a chore. Old beams from houses show that long periods of
-drought reigned in the Southwest. It is thought that these dry spells
-caused Indian families to leave their homes and seek new lands for
-settlement and cultivation.
-
-Such a condition seems to have existed in the entire San Juan area of
-northwestern New Mexico, northeastern Arizona and southwestern Colorado.
-The greatest of the large centers of Indian population, which may have
-numbered hundreds or even thousands of people, were the towns of Chaco
-Canyon in northwestern New Mexico and the Mesa Verde cliff dwellings in
-southwestern Colorado. Many of these towns, it seems, were abandoned
-when the great drought was at its height between 1276-1299, a period of
-twenty-three years. And so we find shifts in population. It is believed
-that some of these shifts were toward the Valley of the Rio Grande.
-
-Before this time small individual groups or migrant bands took to
-wandering. Other Indians could have remained even after the time of the
-twenty-three year drought period, dreading to leave their homes as we
-would ours today. No, there was no great exodus of population. The
-people from the great towns in the west did not move out all at one time
-and completely abandon their homes and desiccated lands. They moved out
-in small bands, or even families. In some way, a traveler might have
-reported high mountain ranges, water and fertile lands to the east—the
-next best to the places they knew as home which they and their ancestors
-had occupied for hundreds of years.
-
-It is possible that even in the 1000’s A.D., small groups pushed out
-over dry desert wastes, following sandy arroyo beds—thought of water
-ever paramount. They were people struggling again for existence. Some
-likely stopped along the way and built temporary homes. They broke
-pottery vessels which they had brought along. The archæologist found
-some of the broken pieces nine hundred years later to help tell the
-story. Whether these migrant bands had a goal or not is questionable but
-the Valley of the Rio Grande was finally reached and scant evidence of
-these early people has been found. More and more Indians moved out of
-the San Juan area and drifted in a southeasterly direction. Some clung
-to the valleys, others took to the mountains, but all settled in the
-general locality where we find most of our colorful and picturesque
-Indian Pueblos so well-known the world over—northern New Mexico.
-
-It is evident that by constant roaming, and penetrating unknown and
-fascinating country, some of these primitive Indians stumbled into the
-deep valleys and upon the high forested mesa tops of the Pajarito
-Plateau, about twenty miles west of the present city of Santa Fe. The
-spot on which Santa Fe is located was then nothing but arid mesa land
-and low foothills ascending to the Sangre de Cristo Range of Mountains.
-Four things were paramount in the minds of these primitive people. They
-were water, food, protective shelter and clothing. These were the things
-the Pajarito offered. Anyone journeying through the deep canyons and
-over the high mesa tops today could easily see why prehistoric Indians
-settled here.
-
-For centuries the wind pounded tiny sharp particles against cliff
-surfaces. It whipped up close to the ground and hollowed out shallow
-caves. Very likely, these places were not large enough for Indians to
-crawl in out of the weather but the cliff composition was so soft that
-these natural caves could easily be made larger. A crude stone of basalt
-with a sharp edge made a perfect hand axe. Indian men hacked out caves
-large enough for a little family group to enter. Rain and cold created
-the necessity for heat. Drills of wood were used to start fires in these
-crude cave dwellings. Fires made them warm—suffocatingly so. There was
-no way for the smoke to escape except through a wide front opening. This
-lack of ventilation created a very serious problem for the early cave
-dweller on the Pajarito Plateau.
-
-There were other Indians who preferred to build their homes on the high
-mesas during these early times. Adobe was used almost exclusively to
-build the low walls of rooms. Some bedded small stones into the walls
-before they were dry. This helped to hold them together. Others
-preferred to use larger stone, picked up at random, in building their
-house walls. The adobe huts were undoubtedly unsatisfactory because of
-their low resistance to weather. Since older styles of pottery have been
-found in the ruins of these houses, it is logical to suppose that
-Indians migrating onto the Pajarito built adobe houses first. Later they
-dug themselves out homes in the cliffs which gave them greater
-protection from the weather and from any invaders.
-
-In this wilderness a mule deer could have fed in a little valley or
-drunk from a creek. This would mean food for the entire family or group
-if a crude arrow would hit its mark. Small razor-sharp fleshers of
-chalcedony or basalt were used to remove the hide from the carcass. The
-hide could be used for making clothing or moccasins. Some of the smaller
-bones might have been used as drills and awls until better ones could be
-obtained. A flock of wild turkeys would have solved this problem. Turkey
-bones made excellent awls. Just what the people used for arrow points
-during these early times is questionable. Maybe they brought them along
-from the west. They could have used chipped chalcedony or basalt which
-was readily found, and quite common in this area. An occasional nodule
-of black volcanic glass, called obsidian, washed down the creek and was
-found bedded in its soft sandy bottom. Obsidian might have been more
-popular during later times as the early dweller in this country may not
-have discovered the ledges of black glass immediately upon his arrival.
-Such could have been life on the Pajarito Plateau eight hundred years
-ago.
-
-More groups of people came in. Hand-hewn caves could have dotted the
-soft workable walls of every canyon which would support human life. The
-well-known canyon of today, the Frijoles, was one such place. The lower
-part of the valley formed a sort of a bulb for about two miles. Its
-sheer cliffs on the north side rose to terrific heights. And throughout
-the countless years, as boulders and dust fell from the cliffs, a talus
-slope or base had formed. A little river, the Rito de Los Frijoles, ran
-for seventeen miles from its source in the high mountains to the west
-and emptied into the Rio Grande. This Canyon was the best in the entire
-Pajarito—the most coveted of all habitable places. The water supply was
-apparently constant and the valley was broad and open at the lower end,
-most suitable for agriculture. The floor was densely covered with
-growths of scrub oak, piñon and pine. This was all that primitive groups
-needed for successful living. And so we find that some of these
-wandering Indians from a world a hundred miles to the west, which was to
-become a thing of the past, penetrated the Valley of the Frijoles over
-eight hundred years ago. But Frijoles Canyon was not the only place
-occupied. There were other canyons nearby. There was plenty of room for
-all. But was there enough water in these other canyons?
-
-Indian families cut their crude shelters deep enough for occupation by
-several individuals. Caves were uncomfortable, but certainly better than
-no shelter at all. This was a strange sort of stone which nature had
-provided. It was very poor to build with, thought the Indian. It was
-soft and bulky. But years of living would eventually solve the problem.
-Why worry about it! In time necessity would produce some means of
-shelter more satisfactory. Later on, more people moved into the area.
-These people occupied adjacent canyons and mesas as well as Frijoles.
-During many years population increased and the dwellers on the Pajarito
-became settled in their locality.
-
-There is no way of telling how many Indians lived in the Valley of the
-Frijoles during very early times—close to water and well protected.
-Indians could sit at the openings of their cave homes above the talus
-slope and see for great distances up and down the Canyon. And it was
-safe. No jealous enemy lurking above could roll a boulder down on them.
-Their cave was their protection. But caves were not adequate as homes.
-Fires could not be built inside without smoking out its occupants.
-Something better had to replace them. This new soft rock certainly was
-not suitable for building walls or at least these simple valley folk did
-not know how to use it. Crude mud huts were erected at the base of the
-cliff at the same time that caves were occupied as home sites. Mud was
-all they could find for building walls. It took lots of water to make
-mud and then it was so soft and crumbly that the little walls cracked
-and fell when they dried out.
-
-Soon it was found that by picking up small stones and packing them into
-the soft mud as temper the walls would stand longer. Larger rocks and
-less mud made better walls and saved a lot of toil and unnecessary
-labor. There were many rocks to be picked up at random. Walls were
-raised high enough for the Indian to stand upright inside the rooms.
-Sharp stone axes of basalt were used to fell small trees which were laid
-over the tops of walls for the support of the roofs. The blunt ends of
-the timbers were inserted in holes gouged out of the cliff. Brush and
-grass were placed over them; thick mud coats were smeared over the top.
-Holes were cut in the roofs. Fires were built and the smoke could escape
-through these holes. How much better this than a cave! These tiny rooms
-were stuffy and smoky inside but not as unpleasant as a cave room. An
-Indian would soon suffocate inside a cave. During the rainy seasons the
-roofs leaked and great quantities of mud were stirred up and spread over
-the top and smoothed down flat. The women could always find more when
-that washed off. In time weeds and wild grasses took root in these dirt
-roofs.
-
-But somewhere, somehow, not at Tyuonyi perhaps, but in some nearby
-valley or on some high mesa top at one of a hundred colony sites, Indian
-neighbors found that still larger chunks of tuff could be used for
-building blocks. This would save much labor. So much mud in a wall would
-not be necessary. It is possible that this use of larger building stones
-was not a matter of independent origin at any one of many primitive
-villages on the high mesas and in the deep canyons of the Pajarito.
-Indians, after years and years of living, simply came into the use of
-larger building blocks by the trial and error method. They served the
-purpose better. A dry spell or so, when it did not rain, might have made
-it necessary to transport more and more water in urns from water holes
-or nearby streams. This was women’s work and hard work too. And more
-stone and less mud made stronger walls for houses anyway. Some of the
-stone was so soft that it could be shaped into blocks to fit into the
-walls. These blocks did not lay absolutely flat because their surfaces
-were irregular. Small stones were forced between the cracks and when the
-mud mortar dried the walls were solid. This practice went on for years
-and years. Indians experimented with all the materials at their
-disposal. They could not send an order to the Gods for building
-materials.
-
-Everywhere on the Pajarito are seen the remains of homes belonging to
-this period of occupation. There are hundreds of them—small family
-houses, in deep canyons or in a forest on high mesa tops. Debris has
-filled them up and today they look like piles of rock. Building blocks
-are strewn all over the surface. Most of the blocks had been picked up
-at random after they had been carved by nature. Others were square or
-rectangular, showing that they had been fashioned by Indian hands.
-
-The Indians who lived in the Valley of the Frijoles communicated with
-the other groups who lived in deep canyons to the south and to the
-north. They visited each other and even traded back and forth. Little
-colonies were formed when one, two, three or four families lived
-together in a house with several rooms. But the time was to come when
-this living all over the country would stop; people would come together
-to live in communities. And the little colony sites would be abandoned
-forever for the archæologist to discover centuries later.
-
-A touchy subject is that of linguistics. It is a tricky one. But
-students know that five different languages are spoken among the Pueblo
-Indians of New Mexico today. They are: Tiwa, Tewa, Towa, Keres, and
-Zuñian. To be on the safe side, one should not touch too heavily upon
-languages spoken by Indians, especially in a writing of this kind. But
-languages and dialects do play an important part in our story. When
-those early people drifted from Chaco Canyon and Mesa Verde toward the
-Rio Grande, they spoke a language. But, it is unknown. Students have
-ideas, but are reluctant to advance opinions based on the ruins they
-excavate or the artifacts they discover. But, two groups of Indians
-speaking different languages drifted onto the Pajarito. People speaking
-different languages have never gotten along well together even from the
-Tower of Babel until the present time.
-
-It has been mentioned before that Keres-speaking Indians have a legend
-that long years ago a treaty or contract was made between their
-ancestors and Tewa-speaking people. It is said that certain loosely
-defined ranges of territory were to belong to each of the two groups.
-The meeting place or the place where the treaty was made was called
-“Tyuonyi.” “Tyuonyi” means “place of treaty.” Thus the dividing line
-between Tewa and Keres lands became sharply defined by what is now known
-as “Frijoles Canyon.” But how long was such a treaty to last among
-primitive people? All the lands to the south of Frijoles Canyon were
-supposedly Keres and those to the north were Tewa. After this treaty was
-made, Indians probably spread out on each side of the Canyon like the
-parting of the waters of the Red Sea. Small house sites dotted the mesas
-and canyons on both sides. But still, members of both groups could
-possibly have lived here together. Legend hints at this.
-
-As time went on more houses sprang up at the base of the north cliff and
-crude pueblos were erected on the floor of the Canyon. Kivas or
-ceremonial chambers were dug out of the valley floor and lined with
-walls of rock. Indians gathered cobble stone because they might not have
-known how to cut blocks during these early times with which to lay
-masonry walls. They gathered thousands of them and built their kiva
-walls eight or ten feet thick. This was their attempt to utilize the
-pieces of crudely shaped felsite or volcanic ash. They laid huge timbers
-fifteen or more inches in diameter across the walls of their large
-underground chambers. Then smaller poles of pine were cut and laid on
-top of the large vigas. Splittings were hacked from down trees. Pine,
-cottonwood, juniper, piñon—anything that would split easily with crude
-stone implements—were used for the next roof course. Then brush and
-grass and mud were put on top. The roofs must have been two or more feet
-thick but little did the Indians realize that the tremendous weight
-might crack the big timbers after they dried out. How ingenious were
-these Indians in their simple way!
-
-Many a moon passed. Many houses were built. Jealousy might have arisen
-between these two groups of Indians. Who was to raise corn on this or
-that little patch of fertile ground? Who should have a right to hunt
-deer and turkey in the Valley of the Frijoles? How could Keres-speaking
-people go to Tewa kivas or how could Tewas go to Keres kivas? Trouble
-reigned over the entire plateau and most of it was possibly in the
-Valley of the Frijoles. Was it ever decided which group should live in
-Hidden Valley when it was given the name Tyuonyi?
-
-Jealousy could have arisen over pottery. When the Frijoles area was
-first occupied clay deposits were discovered in arroyos and along river
-banks. Indian women began moulding pottery with local clays. They
-discovered mineral pigments. They used paints from wild plants which
-fired the black designs in fast color in the vessels. The color would
-never come out. But slowly and surely the women began to depart from the
-techniques which they and their ancestors had previously used. Out of
-these techniques new styles of pottery were developed by using local
-materials. These white wares with black designs became thick and coarse
-as time went on and probably decreased in popularity as far as
-usefulness was concerned.
-
-The Keres-speaking people had kin far to the south of the Pajarito
-Plateau. And these people were ingenious. Sometime in the thirteenth
-century, it seems, Indians living in the Little Colorado River district
-of what is now eastern Arizona and western New Mexico, were making a
-style of red pottery with black designs. This pottery was apparently
-very popular and spread by trade to the Rio Grande Valley. Indians in
-this same region eventually learned to produce a glaze paint by using
-lead-manganese ore. This ware also spread to the Rio Grande and glaze
-paint was used in decorating pottery from about 1350 A.D. to the time of
-the Pueblo Rebellion in 1680. It is thought that shortly after its
-inception and perhaps by 1400 A.D. this red pottery spread by trade to
-Tyuonyi.
-
-The Keres living here might have brought this red ware in from their
-southern relatives living below the Pajarito Plateau. On the other hand,
-it is possible that they might not have lived in the Canyon before the
-time of the glaze pottery. The most plausible explanation seems to be
-that the people to the south brought the materials to their kin in the
-Frijoles. These materials were then transformed into the beautiful new
-hard red ware to catch the eye of the Tewa-speaking people who likely
-were modeling inferior white wares with black designs. However, there is
-a remote possibility that this glaze ware was never manufactured in
-Frijoles Canyon and this possibility brings up the question as to
-whether or not the ware was used as a wedge to gain entrance into
-Tyuonyi. The folk who were living here, either Tewa or Keres, or it
-could have been both, were making an inferior type of black-on-white
-pottery with local materials. It was inferior because it was so porous.
-So, the Tewa-speaking people might have readily accepted this red ware
-in trade from the Keres. And it seems this trading might have been
-carried on for a half-century or thereabout. No one is sure. At this
-particular time there seems to have been a definite decrease in the
-manufacture or trading of glaze pottery.
-
-Something very drastic must have taken place. Could it be that there was
-just not enough room in the beautiful Frijoles for two groups of people
-who spoke different languages? It was easily a prize spot. It was a
-green valley—a perfect place to live and the water supply was constant.
-It might have been the envy of Indians for many miles around. There was
-not this constant water supply either to the north or to the south. Some
-groups living on the high mesas might even have depended on open basins
-hollowed out of soft rock to catch the rain water. Great jealousy could
-have arisen between individuals or even groups. And one might safely
-guess that love affairs were broken up between Tewa maidens and Keres
-boys or vice versa. And who can say with certainty that the Tyuonyi was
-not the earliest known home of the Keres-speaking people in this
-vicinity? Or that it was not the Tewas from the north who did the
-encroaching and forced their way into the Valley of the Frijoles and
-lived and traded pottery with the Keres?
-
-By the time of the fifteenth century, there were many of the Indians
-living to the north of Tyuonyi. Little house sites were being abandoned.
-People were drawing closer together to live in larger communities.
-Surely, the soft volcanic ash from the cliffs was being fashioned into
-building blocks with stone axes. Some were square, some were
-rectangular—long heavy four-sided blocks. It had taken Indians years and
-years, possibly, to learn that this soft stone could be quarried and
-then shaped. These blocks were definitely better and single thickness
-coursed masonry walls were in vogue by this time. This was the highest
-type of prehistoric pueblo architecture on the Pajarito Plateau.
-
-This was most likely the period in which the terraced communal apartment
-houses were developed and erected. There were centers of population from
-this time on. There were no more small family houses. Indians built
-houses with several hundred rooms, at least two, and, in some cases,
-three stories high. What was the reason? Was it for defense purposes or
-was it just a normal outgrowth of the discovery of the fashioned block
-technique? There were several main villages occupied by the
-Tewa-speaking people to the north. They were all built in defensible
-positions: on a knoll, a high mesa top overlooking the entire
-surrounding country, or in a valley away from the cliffs from which
-heavy objects could be thrown down by enemies. These four villages were
-Potsui’i, Sankawi, Navawi and Tshirege. Potsui’i was located in a deep
-valley on a knoll. It was known as “gap where the water sinks.” Sankawi
-was “gap of the sharp round cactus.” It was built high on a mesa top in
-a defensible position. A trail was worn in the soft rock by thousands of
-moccasined feet going and coming from the pueblo. Another of their
-villages, Navawi, was so-called because of a pitfall gap or game trap.
-Game coming from either direction on the trail was caught in a deep pit.
-Tshirege was “House of the Bird People.” It was the largest pueblo on
-the Pajarito and had extensive villages built at the base of the cliff.
-The numbers of Indians who lived at these sites during these times
-cannot be estimated though all four villages were large. It would appear
-that nothing but Tewas lived here. But there also lived their kin and
-kind in Frijoles Canyon.
-
-Keres people were living to the south of Frijoles—in large pueblos too.
-They had been living in this south country for years at Yapashi, “pueblo
-of the Stone Lions,” and at Haatze, “House of the Earth People.” These
-were communal apartment houses also but the Keres population on the
-Pajarito probably was not as great as that of the Tewas in those days.
-Nobody but Keres lived here to the south of Tyuonyi.
-
-But certainly some groups held on at Tyuonyi. Who can say what happened
-half a millenium ago? Likely, the Tewas in Frijoles were few. They could
-have been outnumbered by the Keres people who might have refused to
-leave their Tyuonyi. Runners could have been dispatched across trails to
-the north to the big villages for help. War chiefs held council.
-Warriors were called into action and could have streaked out over
-age-old trails. Hideous looking creatures with flying black hair, bow
-and arrow and war club in hand, went whooping and yelling to the Tyuonyi
-and entered the Canyon at half a dozen places over the north cliff. Two
-groups of Indians speaking different languages simply could not live in
-the same valley, farm the same fields, live in the same caves and drink
-the same water. This was the last of the Keres. They could not hold
-their own because they were outnumbered and out-fought by “the little
-strong people.” They were driven off and the Valley of the Frijoles was
-Tewa from then on.
-
-So these beaten Indians pushed south to move in with their kin at the
-pueblo of the Stone Lions. Whether they ever went back to Tyuonyi and
-attempted another stand against “the little strong people” is not known.
-It has been legendarily hinted that a race of “dwarfs” again attacked
-them at the pueblo of the Stone Lions, slaughtering many and driving off
-the rest. But we know of no race of “dwarfs” in the Southwest during
-either prehistoric or historic times. The poor Keres! They were beaten
-at every turn. But they knew it and moved on, occupying first one place
-and then another, moving in for awhile with other kin and kind. The
-farther away from Tyuonyi, the better!
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO RUINS OF LONG HOUSE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO A PART OF LONG HOUSE
- RUINS]
-
-Haatze, or “House of the Earth People” was their next stop but not for
-long. They lived here with their kind and then moved on, down to the
-village of Cuapa only to be attacked again by “the little strong
-people.” Great numbers were slaughtered, so the legends go, and the
-remainder driven off and pursued almost to the present town of Santo
-Domingo. Legend has it that one group went off by themselves and formed
-the pueblos of Cochiti and Santo Domingo. Another group, it is said,
-climbed up a high rock and took refuge there from their attackers. The
-rock is known as the “Potrero Viejo” and here they built a village. One
-San Felipe legend tells us this: nearly all the people at Cuapa were
-slain, except a woman with a parrot who hid in a metate and a boy who
-hid in a store-room. These two moved to the Tiwa-speaking village of
-Sandia and got a cold reception so they went east to live with the
-Tanos, where the woman gave birth to five children. Things were made so
-miserable for them here that they left and moved to the Rio Grande and
-eventually went to San Felipe. That is why we have the pueblo of San
-Felipe today. These people still know the Pajarito as their ancestral
-home and it is not an uncommon thing for them to organize a communal
-hunt to the homes of their ancestors or trudge to the Shrine of the
-Stone Lions and paint the noses of the life-size fetiches or sprinkle a
-little sacred meal—deep in ancient Keres land.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER IV
- Building in the Great Period
-
-
-Time has a peculiar way of curing all ills. The Keres had been driven
-from the Tyuonyi by the “little strong people” and possibly did not make
-further attempt to re-occupy this Valley of the Frijoles. They were
-contented to stay in the broad Valley of the Rio Grande where the water
-supply was constant and where their enemies did not care to go. The
-boundary line was set. And even the hostile Tewas had probably
-experienced enough of war and trouble.
-
-Tyuonyi, the Hidden Valley, might have been like an oasis in the desert.
-Who can say that there was sufficient water in the canyons and on the
-mesas to the north—that water holes did not go dry and that the Tewas
-did not have to depend upon waters from the heavens to make their corn
-grow? And who can say that the waters of El Rito de Los Frijoles dried
-up? One can only suppose. But judging by climatic conditions as they are
-today, Frijoles Canyon was one of the main sources of water on the
-Pajarito. Since water was a controlling factor in the lives of these
-people, what primitive group of Indians would not fight over the right
-to live in a well-watered valley—a green and beautiful valley—where
-adequate shelter was afforded by the vertical walls of a high north
-cliff? Certain things hint that little time passed before Tewa-speaking
-groups penetrated the Valley of the Frijoles again and in larger numbers
-than before. Slowly and surely they trickled in a few at a time. Over a
-period of years the infiltration was heavy. Deep trails were worn in the
-soft rock ledges by the passing over of thousands of moccasined feet
-going to and from the northern villages some ten miles distant. The
-steam of hatred between the jealous groups could have cooled off but
-probably never completely. Toward the close of the fifteenth century
-primitive Tewa farmers, it seems, had again settled in Frijoles Canyon.
-
- [Illustration: Building house]
-
-They went to work in earnest this time, building houses; not with mud
-walls which would wash down when it rained, but with walls of stone,
-which type of construction their predecessors had begun. Some of the
-caves occupied by the earlier people could have eroded away while others
-could have been re-hewn by these later occupants. Who knows? Crumbling
-remains of old talus houses might have been leveled off at the base of
-the cliff and new homes built over them. Indian men carved the heavy
-stones into square and rectangular blocks with stone axes. The stones
-lay almost flat and the masons did not have to be too careful in their
-fashioning because small pieces of rock hammered tight in the joints
-would hold the blocks steady. These walls were laid on footings of
-smooth-worn river pebbles. Block after block was carved and laid into
-structures seven feet high. Indian women carried water from the little
-river in ollas on the tops of their heads and trudged day after day up
-the steep slopes to the cliff. They gathered clay, perhaps not from
-Frijoles Canyon, because it was hard to find. They might have traveled
-miles for enough to apply a thin coating of wash over the stone walls of
-their homes.
-
-Indian men labored with stone axes to fell the trunks of pines which
-they used in building roofs to their houses. They gouged holes out of
-the soft cliff to insert the ends of roof beams and sealed them in
-tightly with mud mortar. Across these vigas they laid small poles. Many
-miles were covered to obtain long slender canes and cat-tail stems from
-the muddy low banks of the Rio Grande for the next roof layer. Then pine
-needles and brush supplied the next coat. Something leafy had to hold
-the thick mud coats which were smoothed flat over the top. Sometimes
-Indian houses had doors in the front walls and sometimes they did not.
-It all depended upon the wish of the individual builder. Most of the
-houses had two-pole ladders of pine. Rungs were lashed down tight with
-willows, pliable reeds or even strings of rawhide or rope made from the
-yucca fiber. By means of ladders the Indian could climb to his roof-top
-and go down through a small hatchway or opening. This gave added
-protection against hostile groups. In any one of many cavate or house
-rooms was a fireplace. In the ceiling above was an opening for the
-escape of the smoke. Cliff dwellings were smoky places regardless of the
-type or style.
-
-Time developed the terraced community apartment house for the
-prehistoric Pueblo Indian in the cliff as well as in the open flats on
-the floor of the Canyon. Second stories, it seems, came quite late in
-the evolution of house types at Frijoles. Narrow mud walls of such poor
-quality as were built in earlier times at Tyuonyi would never have held
-two stories but the new walls of fashioned rock would hold them because
-they were more stable. It stands to reason that when stone and mortar
-were laid into a wall, the process of drying out transformed the wall
-into a unit. This process reminds me of an expression I remember from my
-freshman days in college, that: “Pre-Cambrian rocks are homogeneous in
-their heterogeneity,” and it is certainly true that stone walls built by
-our prehistoric friends of the sixteenth century could enjoy the same
-comment. Floors to these houses were plastered with fine adobe mortar.
-The rough surfaces of walls were plastered over too, from floor to roof
-timbers. And the cliff dweller was lucky if no water got inside his
-house. The secret was to keep them dry. It might not have been an
-uncommon sight to have witnessed the mudding of roofs by Indian women of
-sixteenth century Tyuonyi. After a good rain they could have taken
-advantage of water caught in pottery vessels which had been set outside
-the houses. This would have saved the women many a weary step to water
-and return.
-
- [Illustration: Roofing a house]
-
-One story was not sufficient so up, up, up went the houses to two and
-three stories. The cliff formed the back walls of the rooms—then Mr.
-Prehistoric Indian had only three walls to lay instead of four. Walls of
-stone, ten and twelve inches thick, would hold the weight of one or two
-additional stories and especially when they leaned against the steady
-cliff. But additional rooms meant more poles, more cane, brush and mud.
-When second and third story rooms were added the smoke from fires in
-rooms below escaped through a front opening. There was no way for the
-smoke to escape through the upper rooms and the cliff dweller was smart
-enough not to cut a hole in the floor and let the smoke into his house
-above. And, too, second and third story rooms likely were much safer
-than first story rooms. Ladders could be pulled up to the roofs. Who
-knows that these Tewas were not thinking of revengeful Keres people to
-the south?
-
-In some cases caves were hewn and used independently of the talus houses
-to the front but certainly it was impossible to stay inside while large
-fires were burning. The poor cliff dweller would have suffocated. Many
-attempts were made to ventilate caves by boring smoke holes above the
-doorways. But it was impossible to ventilate a cave successfully. Not
-much of a draft was created. Indians attempted to ventilate their cave
-homes by cutting as many as three holes through the soft cliff and then
-plastering the holes on the inside to facilitate the passage of the
-smoke. They met with little success.
-
-Fires were kindled inside and when smoke filled the room the Indian
-either had to go outside or into his talus house. I once had an
-experience with fires in caves. Undoubtedly, the Indian of long ago
-experienced the same as I. When a fire was kindled the smoke circled
-around and filled the chamber. The vents did not work. Smoke hovered
-down to the height of the door and went out at that point leaving a
-definite line of demarkation around the cave wall. The Indian plastered
-the wall underneath this smoke line so that his house would not be so
-filthy and so that he could crouch down and lean his shoulders against
-it without getting soot all over his back. I have seen cave walls
-exhibiting as many as thirteen thin plaster coats. Never let it be said
-that caves were popular places in which to live while large fires were
-burning inside. Perhaps our prehistoric friend knew that if he built a
-fire inside his cave the walls would warm up. Then hours later, after
-most of the smoke had gone out, he could return and be quite comfortable
-without suffocating. And he, no doubt, would have rolled down a deer
-skin or matting of corn shucks over the opening to keep out the cold
-during the winter months.
-
-The majority of the caves at Tyuonyi were connected with the talus
-houses to the front. Caves entered from second-story rooms were very
-popular and likely were used, for the most part, as ante-chambers and
-not as independent dwellings. They were excellent for storage purposes
-and if the Indian wanted to live he had to hold food over from one
-season to the next. Covering a period of a little more than a hundred
-years, let us say, the Indians of Frijoles Canyon cut over three hundred
-cave rooms in the north cliff. Some were, used independently of the
-houses to the front but most of them were not. Caves were hewn before
-houses were built, and likely, a great number of them were cut after the
-talus houses were erected against the cliff. They built just as many
-houses as caves, if not more. Houses extended as far as four rows of
-rooms out from the cliff and they were terraced up as high as three
-stories. On top of them were open porches which we call “ramadas” today.
-They were mere shelters with four corner poles and a few cross pieces of
-juniper or pine with brush and leaves over the top. What delight some
-old cronies might have had basking in the sun during some hot summer
-afternoon!
-
-This was the valley of the cliff dweller, the Ancient Tewa more than
-likely, who built houses and cut caves for almost two miles up and down
-the north cliff of Frijoles Canyon. Here he could see for great
-distances—he could look up and he could look down. He could hear the
-water rippling in the Rito below and he could live in true Indian
-fashion. But these villages were not built in a day or a year. It took
-many years. Although there are the ruins of enough houses and caves
-along the north wall to have housed two thousand primitive Indians, no
-more than a few hundred ever lived here at one time. There simply wasn’t
-land enough to farm, or game enough to supply food for a greater number.
-It would seem that Tyuonyi never had a static occupation but an ever
-moving one.
-
-The cliff dwellers at Frijoles, like their kin to the north, knew that
-the only safe method of living was in communities. So they erected what
-is known today as the “Long House.” One section of the north cliff was
-almost vertical and its base sloped gently down to the waters of the
-little river. This must have been the concentration of the cliff homes.
-Rooms were built side by side for over seven hundred feet. There were
-few cave rooms here to crawl back into and out of the weather. These
-people must have learned by experience how uncomfortable caves were,
-because they stuck to houses with stone walls and roofs of poles and
-brush and grass and mud. And they built these homes solid against the
-cliff and even carved recesses in the cliff so that the ends of the
-building stones would fit perfectly. Then the walls would not slip. The
-Long House was not very far from water—fifty yards. This was just a step
-for the women.
-
-Some of the dwellers carved and painted pictures on the back walls of
-their houses or even in the caves which had barely enough room for three
-or four people to occupy. Call it writing if you like. It likely was
-“doodling.” They had no written language. They were forced to record
-what they thought and what they believed or had seen on the walls of
-their houses or in the designs of their pottery. Birds were the most
-common design. A mountain sheep was occasionally drawn, or a squirrel,
-or a rabbit; perhaps a bear or a katsina—a supernatural being. They
-might have tried to depict their ancestors emerging from the darkness
-and climbing up a high pole from the underworld of Sipapu. The awanyu or
-“plumed serpent” was quite common. It was the guardian spirit of
-springs. In one cave there was a drawing of a horse and certainly this
-was not an ancient drawing for the Spanish brought the horse to New
-Mexico. Some wandering Tewa could have seen the Spanish on horseback—on
-creatures which Indians thought devoured people. It might have been that
-other Tewa-speaking people from around the pueblo of San Juan, far to
-the north, described a horse by pictograph, when they hurried into the
-mountain homes of their kin after seeing the Spanish in 1540. Or it
-might have been drawn by some visitor after the evacuation of the
-Indians. It could even have been someone’s joke.
-
-About a quarter-mile from the cliff dwellings, and where the Canyon
-becomes narrow, is a deep natural cave. It is eighty feet across and its
-opening faces the valley one hundred fifty feet above the waters of the
-Rito. One prehistoric group lived here for a time. They were certainly
-secluded. Hand holds were gouged from the soft cliffs with sharp pointed
-rocks and here in this, now called “Ceremonial Cave,” Indians built
-seventeen first-story rooms and several second-story rooms around the
-back. They excavated a kiva or ceremonial chamber to the front of the
-cave. Think of the task these Indians had when they carted water and
-poles and sticks and perhaps stones up the side of the cliff. Tons of
-rock were required to build these houses and the ceremonial chamber.
-This little group built their kiva twelve feet in diameter. It was a
-circular affair dug to a depth of nine feet and lined with a wall of
-stone which was plastered on the inside. The floor was of a special
-kind. It was hard, black and shiny. It had been polished with a smooth
-stone like the ones the Indian women use today to polish their black
-pottery. Only this floor was made of blood—animal blood. The Indians
-carefully saved the blood from animals which they killed and then mixed
-it with fine silt and soot from the fire and smeared it over their kiva
-floor in thin layers. When the blood coagulated the plaster hardened and
-then it was polished by rubbing a smooth stone over it in backward and
-forward motion. This must have been an important room to have had such
-an elaborately made floor. But kivas in prehistoric times may have been
-more important than they are today.
-
-In the floor were six small holes in a straight line. While the plaster
-was still wet small pieces of oak or some other tough pliable wood was
-bent in loops and the ends of each piece were pushed down into the soft
-mud plaster. Then these holes, or round depressions were made around the
-loops leaving them exposed. These were directly below a horizontal pole
-suspended from the ceiling. This was a loom. By an arrangement of long
-straight sticks these ingenious Indians devised a method of weaving.
-Since it is thought that in years gone by women and children were not
-allowed in the kivas to break up the complacency of a man’s ceremony, we
-might suppose that some old man sat here and ran a shuttle through warp
-cords of cotton strung vertically from roof poles to floor loops. Here
-he carried on weaving of a ceremonial nature with cotton or animal hair
-while the smoke from a ceremonial fire in the fireplace circled around
-making the kiva a very unpleasant place to be despite an elaborate
-system of ventilation.
-
-These “high-up” cave dwellers had their houses built like the ones at
-Mesa Verde, completely sheltered by the overhanging cave roof. To the
-side of the dwellings, situated near the back wall of the cave, was a
-turkey pen of little cleanliness. When I discovered this pen hundreds of
-years later, the floor was covered with human feces, turkey and rodent
-droppings. They had all lived here in times anterior to the coming of
-the Spaniards—Indians, turkeys and rodents. The Indian hauled his water
-and food from the valley below. He secluded himself from the bulk of the
-Indian population at Tyuonyi. The question will always be, why? Of
-course, there was a small pueblo on the other side of the Canyon on a
-little knoll across the river but this might have been built, occupied
-and abandoned before Indians ever occupied the big cave as a place of
-residence.
-
-And then, there were Indians who preferred to live on the floor of the
-Canyon in pueblos—terraced community apartment houses. Several hundred
-yards below the concentration of the cliff dwellings and in the lower
-end of the Tyuonyi they built such an apartment house. Little is known
-about it because it has never been excavated. Broken pieces of pottery,
-the most important tool of the archæologist, are found strewn over its
-ruins today. Its walls are down now and its rooms are almost completely
-filled in with debris. This particular group of Indians preferred to
-have their dwelling close to water and they erected it with stone and
-mud mortar. This is all that is known of this isolated settlement.
-
-It is quite possible that the most popular dwelling places in Frijoles
-Canyon were the dwellings at the Long House, so well protected by the
-sheer vertical cliff wall. These could have been over-crowded. Indians
-might have cared little about living in other sections of the cliff. It
-might have been that some of the cliff dwellers had experienced terrible
-slides when hundreds of tons of loose rock and boulders came tumbling
-down on their little houses, crushing them like pasteboard boxes and
-burying the occupants alive. All the man-power in the northern part of
-the Pajarito Plateau could never have rescued their kin who might have
-been caught in these cave homes. Those rocks had rolled from the top to
-stay and there they remain today. One wonders what stories those buried
-caves hold—if, by chance, the skeletons of the occupants are still
-there. Indians perhaps have died scratching at the boulders which
-covered the entrances to their caves or tearing their hair and clutching
-their throats as they suffocated and fell extended on the hard plaster
-floors in their rooms. Those caves have never been opened.
-
-It is easy to see that the valley floor could have been more popular as
-a dwelling place than sections of the cliff more susceptible to slides
-than the Long House. A part of the main population built and lived in a
-large terraced community apartment house known as “Puwige” or “pueblo
-where the women scraped the bottoms of the pottery vessels clean.” This
-is now the famous ruin known the world over. It has been featured in the
-_National Geographic Magazine_ and many other publications.
-
-Puwige never existed during the very early occupation of the Canyon. Its
-initial wall stones were not laid until the beginning of the Great
-Period. Any Indian family might have erected a few rooms near the little
-river—close to water. Then another family came along and built a few
-more rooms. A son took on a wife and the entire family helped to build
-his house, since house-building was a community proposition. Indian men
-went to the slopes where boulders had rolled down and broke them with
-heavy stones and fashioned the pieces into uneven building blocks. This
-was no small job. Walls were laid in mud mixed by the small brown hands
-of Indian women. Poles were cut and laid across the walls, then
-splittings and cane and brush were laid over the tops and sealed with
-thick coats of mud. Thick coats of crude plaster were spread over the
-inside of walls and over floors. These Indians had little clay, none for
-walls anyway, without hauling it in on their backs, so, they poured hot
-ashes into the mud to make it stick. Hot ashes formed a sort of lime.
-Coronado, in 1540, found the Indians at Tiguex making a mortar and
-plaster in this manner. Slabs of basalt were brought in and set edgewise
-in the rooms as fireplaces. This was the home of the newlyweds—built
-right next to the groom’s father’s house. The young bride could have
-come from the Long House to live at Puwige, the community house, with
-her husband’s family.
-
- [Illustration: FEDERAL ART PROJECT, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE. CUT
- COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO ARTIST’S RESTORATION OF PUWIGE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY NAT’L. PARK SERVICE AERIAL VIEW OF PUWIGE
- RESTORED]
-
-The place on which Puwige was erected was so situated that the Indians
-had to make walls with sharp turns to follow the contour of the land.
-This must have been a popular place to live for as time went on more and
-more rooms were added. Indians evidently preferred this to the
-vulnerable cliffs. It was not all planned and executed at one time. Some
-second-story rooms were added and then porches of poles and brush were
-built. Additions of rooms continued until Puwige was shaped in the form
-of a crescent with the open part facing the little river which was only
-a few feet away. Indians lived here for untold years. Something
-happened. I know not what. It seems that they closed the gap by building
-three rows of rooms. It was no more a crescent but a circle of rooms
-built around a large plaza or inner court. Rooms were built in rows,
-seven deep on the east side of the circle and three on the west side.
-There were about three hundred rooms on the ground floor and many second
-and third-story rooms—four hundred in all, more or less. The place was
-turned into a veritable fort. These people were cunning. They cut seven
-rooms out through the east side and formed a narrow passageway through
-which everyone had to pass in order to enter his home. They went from
-the outside of the pueblo through this narrow passage, dodging
-obstructions, until they reached the huge inner court. And then they
-ascended to their respective dwellings by means of small ladders,
-pulling them to their roof-tops during times of danger. Leave it to the
-Tewas, “the little strong people,” to find ways and means of protecting
-themselves from lurking danger.
-
-I was once told a story by some San Ildefonso Indians about this Puwige
-hallway. Guarding the hallway was a half-circle barricade of stone and
-mud. It was several feet thick and both ends joined the walls of the
-main building. Through this circular wall was a small opening. The wall
-must have stood six or eight feet high to have been effective. Now the
-Tewas contend that at one time, long ago, a sentry was stationed day and
-night inside the circle. When Puwige was attacked the alarm was given
-and a huge boulder was rolled in front of the opening. This was to slow
-down the attackers. If they were fortunate enough to get by the boulder
-then it was intended that they stumble over a slab of basalt set
-edgewise in the passageway. It must have stood a foot or more in the
-air. If the attackers got by the stone without losing balance, then they
-encountered numerous wooden posts bedded upright in the dirt floor of
-the long narrow passage. How confusing and prohibitive! Entrance to
-Puwige was almost impossible unless “the little strong people” desired
-it. For the villager, an Indian woman with a water jar on her head,
-moving along slowly, entrance was easy, but for the enemy—no. Warriors
-stood on housetops, high in the air, and shot sharp-pointed arrows at
-enemies. They threw rocks and pottery vessels. They fought with
-clubs—anything they could get their hands on. Puwige was not easy to
-penetrate.
-
-Was this Puwige occupied by any particular group or were the people of
-the cliff houses allowed to scramble down and hurry to the inside for
-protection? Was it a fort for the entire community or just for the
-people who lived here? The cliff homes were being lived in at the same
-time as Puwige and might have been more effective as defense units.
-There was only one side to protect in the cliff homes—the front. And who
-were the attackers: Navaho, Keres or other groups? Legend has it that
-the Navaho plundered the pueblos for years and years and history tells
-us so. They stole the hard-earned stores of food from the pueblos and
-ran off with the women and children whom they made slaves. But it isn’t
-likely that the Navaho, on foot during the days of Puwige, cared much
-about penetrating the mountain homes. It would have been a chore to
-carry the loot back with them. The Navajo likely did not relish the idea
-of coming over the high range of mountains from the west for a few pots
-of beans and corn. Would it not be more likely that the so-called
-“little strong people” might have feared attacks during the night by the
-Keres to the south who had been driven from their Canyon homes? Tyuonyi
-was “the oasis of the Pajarito” and the Tewas did not intend to be
-driven from their fertile valley. Some lurking band could have crept
-over the south cliff when all was quiet—while Tewas were resting
-peacefully below. And the attackers were quiet too, with their
-moccasined feet, like the mountain lion which creeps upon a fawn. A
-falling rock or the crackling of a dead branch would be a dead
-give-away. This was not to happen to “the little strong people.”
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO CEREMONIAL CAVE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO KIVA IN CEREMONIAL
- CAVE]
-
- [Illustration: Raising the ladders]
-
-In 1540 the Spanish explorers passed the Keres province and moved
-northward, it would appear, near the present site of San Juan Pueblo.
-The entire Indian population fled to the mountains, as you will recall,
-where they said they had four very strong villages. It is entirely
-possible that some of these people from the north pushed deep into the
-mountain country and on to the Valley of the Frijoles where the Spanish
-could not go on horseback. It was a Hidden Valley. If this had been
-true, if these northern people had moved into Tyuonyi with their kith
-and kin and had told about how the Spanish stormed pueblos and shot
-cannon at other Indians and readily conquered the inhabitants, “the
-little strong people” might have had incentive to fortify their Puwige
-against the undesirable attentions of the conquerors. Or it might have
-been some visitor from the Valley of the Rio Grande who told about
-depredations at Tiguex. But would a Keres warn a Tewa? We must not
-overlook the fact that it would have been possible for friendly
-relations to have existed between the rival groups of people at the time
-of the Spanish Conquest. They could have lived close together and traded
-pottery and other articles back and forth. One might go so far as to say
-that they could have lived at Tyuonyi together a few years prior to its
-abandonment. But taking all these things into consideration it was
-likely the Keres whom the Tewas fortified themselves against, and from
-whom they had probably experienced hostile visits. So they fortified
-their Puwige and drew up their ladders to the roof-tops in defiance. And
-the people in the cliffs also drew up their ladders.
-
-Within the inner court of this big community house were three kivas.
-These deep underground ceremonial chambers lined with rock walls were
-built adjacent to the rooms on the north side. Puwige was large. It was
-more than two hundred seventy-five feet across and the tiers of rooms
-formed a wide band around the outside of the circular court. Why the
-Indians erected three kivas so close together is uncertain unless it was
-to have more room in the plaza. It is possible that the kivas were
-erected first, outside of the village, and as the pueblo grew the three
-little ceremonial chambers were entirely enclosed within it. But why
-three kivas inside Puwige? Indians had their reasons. These three
-ceremonial chambers were small. They were not more than twelve or
-fifteen feet in diameter. The hard plaster floors were seven or eight
-feet below the surface of the ground. Their roofs were of poles laid
-across the stone walls with brush and grass and mud for a covering.
-Small combination hatchways and smoke vents were cut in the roofs and
-ladders were put down to the floors as a means of getting in and out.
-These chambers were likely society kivas of which there were several in
-every Indian village. Or we might compare them with club rooms in our
-own society. They were places where the elders met in council, or where
-they came to spend an hour or so, perhaps a week, visiting with their
-spiritual fathers. Kivas were places where policy was discussed and
-decided upon—or a kiva might have been a place where a group of hunters
-gathered before going on a hunt to pray that their hunt would be
-successful. We will never know what went on in the secret chambers at
-Tyuonyi, or as a matter of fact, in any other prehistoric kiva.
-
-And speaking of kivas or ceremonial chambers, some groups preferred to
-have theirs in the cliffs, hewn out like the smoky cave rooms but
-generally larger. And the kivas, like the cave rooms, were plastered
-half-way up the walls whenever they became smoked. This happened quite
-often if fires were kept burning.
-
-The greatest period of occupation of Hidden Valley must have begun
-sometime during the fifteenth century. It was to last about a hundred
-years. With the beginning of this Great Period, the period in which
-Puwige and all of the talus houses were most likely built and occupied,
-there certainly must have been some social or ceremonial organization
-similar to that in the modern pueblos. There were likely two moieties.
-The dual system where every person in the village belonged to one of two
-kivas—either Turquoise or Squash, or, Winter or Summer respectively.
-Presumably a baby born in the winter belonged to the Turquoise kiva. If
-it was a patrilineal society then the individual might have belonged to
-the same kiva as his father. Who knows but that it was a matter of
-personal choice? Each kiva, Turquoise or Squash, had a ruler or cacique
-whose word was absolute. He was the father of the village to whom
-villagers looked for guidance and his appointment was for life. The
-moieties were under the spiritual guidance of the two town chiefs who
-were responsible for the welfare of the people. An important office was
-that of cacique. He had been chosen because of his thorough knowledge of
-chants, sacred rituals, ceremonial procedure and prayers. No one doubted
-the word of the cacique. And all Indians owed duties to their respective
-kivas. Although the groups, Turquoise and Squash, were in opposition
-they also depended upon one another for the common good of the pueblo.
-
-If the dual system was in vogue at Tyuonyi, there must have been two
-kivas to support it. A peculiar thing, it seems, took place here. At
-least one tribal kiva was built and was in use before the Great Period
-of occupation came along. It was a large structure forty-two feet in
-diameter. Sixty Indians could have crouched down around the inside
-against the wall. Indian men, years before, excavated a large concave
-depression in the side of a hill a hundred yards or so down the Canyon
-from Puwige. Days and days were required to bring in thousands of cobble
-stones. They labored untiringly. They brought them from the river and
-they brought chunks from the cliff. Around this deep concave depression
-which they had laboriously scooped out of the earth with broken pieces
-of pottery, sticks, flat stones and whatever else they had to work with,
-Indian men laid stone after stone of this volcanic tuff in crude mortar.
-They laid a wall ten feet thick. It required thousands of the unworked
-stones to line this deep pit. It was a circular affair and was their way
-of creating a semi-subterranean chamber when they did not know how to
-lay single thickness masonry walls with fashioned blocks.
-
-No prehistoric Rio Grande kiva, that I know of, has an entrance through
-its wall such as this which was found at Frijoles. They all were entered
-through the roof. Such things as wall entrances are customary in kivas
-in the San Juan area but not in the Rio Grande Valley. And these early
-people dug five pits in the floor of their kiva and lined them with
-cobble stones. They must have had some use for them of which we know
-nothing. Pits of this type are something else not seen in prehistoric
-Rio Grande kivas. They are found in the kivas at Chaco Canyon though,
-and it is possible that they could have been vestiges of that early
-culture.
-
-This particular ceremonial chamber had apparently fallen into disuse for
-a time. But during the Great Period of occupation, when “the little
-strong people” presumably occupied the Tyuonyi, it was rebuilt. There
-was little use in going to work and building an entirely new kiva when
-one was already here and could be rebuilt. The old roofing had fallen to
-the inside and there were hundreds of pounds of debris in the kiva
-chamber. All this was cleaned out. Building a kiva was a community
-enterprise. Men again began cutting and fashioning rectangular blocks
-from large chunks fallen from the cliff. As each block was fashioned it
-was laid into a single thickness coursed masonry wall around the inside
-of the thick wall of cobble stone which belonged to the earlier
-occupation. The Indian was smart. He laid this circular wall sloping
-outward toward the top so that the pressure from the heavy roof would be
-diverted downward when it was laid over the walls. When the wall was
-finished it was nine feet high from the floor of the kiva to the
-ceiling. And then to keep it from falling down, the Indians dug
-underneath the footing stones, and objects modeled of clay which looked
-like doughnuts were laid in the holes. When we discovered these
-doughnut-shaped affairs I was mystified until an old Indian from San
-Ildefonso told me they were put there purposely to hold the wall up, in
-a spiritual way of course.
-
- [Illustration: Felling trees]
-
-What a large structure this was! It was almost as large as the kivas at
-Chaco Canyon where the ancestors of these Indians probably lived several
-hundred years before. There was no kiva this large in the entire Rio
-Grande Valley. Huge timbers forty-five feet long were required to span
-its diameter and timbers that large were difficult to carry. But with
-crude stone axes and obsidian knives these kiva builders penetrated the
-forest to cut girders for their ceremonial chamber. In the year 1513
-A.D. or thereabout, they cut three trees with trunks fifteen inches or
-more in diameter. It took hours, days perhaps. They hacked and they
-pounded with their Neolithic implements of toil until all three trees
-had been felled. I would hate to estimate the time required to fell
-these timbers but time meant nothing to the Indian. Then there was the
-job of removing all the branches, needles and bark.
-
-Preparing a girder in prehistoric times was a great task. Green timber
-is much heavier than seasoned wood. And so these timbers weighing a ton
-or more were dragged out of the forest to the kiva with stout ropes made
-of yucca fiber. Sheer strength was all these people had. There were no
-carts with wheels on them to bear the brunt of the load. Heavy objects
-had to either be dragged or carried. After much sweat and toil the ends
-of the huge poles were rolled over into position in shallow trenches
-worked out for this purpose on both sides of the kiva. These three
-timbers formed the under structure of the roof. When they were placed
-exactly like the Indian wanted them, pointed rocks were driven into the
-ground around the ends and the open spaces were packed with adobe so
-that these huge round logs would not roll. They placed much smaller
-timbers of pine across the huge vigas. These were not so difficult to
-cut and they were laid about three feet apart. From down-timbers of
-pine, piñon, cottonwood or any other type of fallen trees they hacked
-and ripped long narrow sections for the next roof course. The splittings
-were transported in bundles to the kiva and one by one they were laid
-close together over the small pine poles. Great quantities of thin
-willow branches, cane or cat-tail stems were used for the next course.
-Pine needles, brush, yucca leaves and whatever leafy material they could
-gather was placed on the top. They needed this brush and leafy material
-because it was to hold the thick heavy mud coats which were spread over
-the top. Indian women carried urn after urn of water on their heads from
-the Rito and stamped and mixed this mud. The only chore left was to
-throw dirt over the top.
-
-When the ceremonial chamber was finished it looked like a huge, low
-mound—almost level with the ground. The Indians did not forget the
-square opening in the top for the exit of the smoke. Kivas were stuffy
-places inside. And as in all kivas there was a ventilator. This had been
-built during the earlier period of occupation and reused during the
-Great Period. It was a mere tunnel which looked like a fireplace and it
-suddenly turned upward like a fireplace chimney. The mouth of the
-chimney was level with the ground so that the draft would be downward
-and would go into the kiva and lift the smoke from the firebox to the
-ceiling and eventually out the square opening. The Indian of Tyuonyi did
-understand something about ventilating a kiva. He was smart enough to
-know that if the top of the ventilator was built very far above ground
-level it would work like a fireplace. Then all the smoke would be drawn
-to the floor of the kiva and sucked out through the low tunnel. And in
-this case he could not have remained inside. But he never found out how
-to ventilate his cave room in the cliff. How unfortunate!
-
-Directly across the kiva in the west side was the entrance which had
-also been put here years before. It was merely a tunnel with a roof of
-small juniper branches. The outside end was open and was just large
-enough for the ends of a two-pole ladder to rest. Indians usually go
-into their kivas through the roofs, but not here. They climbed down the
-ladder, stooped, and with knees in a flexed position scurried through
-the tunnel to the inside.
-
-The five pits in the floor, which have been mentioned before, were
-apparently no longer needed for they were filled in with dirt and stones
-tightly packed. A thin layer of dirt was thrown over the entire floor
-surface. Kiva floors are generally plastered over and during this period
-of occupation the Tyuonyi women, more than likely, were the ones who
-smeared four fine coats of adobe over the floor and smoothed it out with
-their hands.
-
-I have neglected to mention one of the most important things of all—the
-Sipapu or ceremonial entrance from the underworld. It was the place of
-ceremonial emergence into this earthly life. Archæologists generally
-find a small hole in the floor of almost every kiva. But here at Tyuonyi
-a special kind of Sipapu was made. A piece of soft volcanic ash was
-formed into a rectangular block and buried edgewise in the floor. A
-small hole shaped like an icecream cone was drilled in the top as the
-spirit entrance. The Indians have a legend about this. It is symbolic of
-the entrance to the land of “Earth Old Women” and of the place where the
-human race originated. Long ago they climbed up a Douglas Spruce Tree
-and came into this world through a lake called Sipapu. And when they die
-the spirits go to Sipapu and on to the underworld. It is said that this
-lake is located in the sand hills north of Alamosa, Colorado. How
-important the kiva was to the Indians of Tyuonyi! Sipapu represented the
-place of creation and to them it was important in no small way. The
-cacique of each one of the big tribal kivas, both Squash and Turquoise,
-was a direct representative of the Earth Mother or “Earth Old Woman.”
-
-But the dweller at Tyuonyi had forgotten something. He did not realize
-how tremendously heavy the roof of his big kiva was. He did not know
-that the small pine timbers, the splittings, brush, grass, mud and dirt
-would cause the big pine vigas to bend and sag and crack in the middle.
-It is a question whether or not the roof fell in during some important
-ceremony. The situation had to be remedied at any rate. Pine poles, nine
-or ten inches in diameter were cut so they would support the weight of
-the roof. Six holes were dug in the kiva floor, two under each of the
-big vigas. Flat rocks were put in the bottoms of the holes and the ends
-of the six timbers were inserted and swung into place under the big
-girders, and driven with heavy rocks into an upright position. The big
-vigas might have sagged a little but the roof never fell after this
-time. Flat stones were driven tight around the bottoms of the support
-posts and the holes in which they rested were packed solid with mud and
-rocks to keep the timbers from slipping. And this was how the
-prehistoric Indian at Tyuonyi built his ceremonial chambers in which
-women were not allowed unless requested by the men. There might have
-been more than one roof put on this kiva. The first one could have been
-laid during the latter part of the fifteenth century. It could have
-fallen and then been rebuilt. Archæologists do know that the last time
-this large kiva was roofed over was during the early part of the
-sixteenth century. We found one of the large charred ends of a big roof
-timber and it had been cut in 1513 A.D. So it was about this time that
-the last kiva roof was laid. Just how long it was in use is a question.
-It was surely used until the end of the occupation of Frijoles Canyon
-sometime near the close of the sixteenth century.
-
-The Indians of Tyuonyi during the Great Period had developed the
-dwellings in the north cliff extensively to the number of some three
-hundred caves. There might have been twice as many talus houses to the
-front, some one story and others two and three stories high. The cliff
-population centered around the Long House while other groups built
-houses in different locations at the base of the north cliff. And still
-other groups built the big community apartment house of about four
-hundred rooms to a height of possibly three stories and called it
-“Puwige” or “pueblo where the Indian women scraped the bottoms of the
-pottery vessels clean.” And they built it in the form of a fort with a
-narrow hallway through the east side as the only means of entrance. And
-here they fortified themselves during times of attack by other Indians
-like themselves who might have been jealous of the watered Valley of the
-Frijoles. Another group preferred to remove themselves down the Canyon a
-quarter-mile and they erected a circular pueblo, a miniature of Puwige,
-seemingly. Still another group preferred to be more isolated and so they
-chose a deep cave one hundred fifty feet above the Canyon floor in which
-to build their house and kiva.
-
-One would think, looking at the ruined home sites, that thousands of
-prehistoric Indians dwelt at Tyuonyi but that was never the case.
-Although the dwellings were extensive they were not all occupied at any
-one time. Small groups moved in. Others moved out. They could have taken
-turns living in Hidden Valley and then returned to the northern villages
-of Potsui’i, Sankawi, Navawi or Tshirege, where their kin and kind
-lived. Tyuonyi might have been a place for summer occupation during the
-growing season. When planting time came little groups trickled in from
-the large northern community villages and remained for a while. One
-cannot be sure of what went on in the Canyon. It was a suitable place
-for continued occupation with the possibility of an influx of population
-during the summer months. One can only speculate. Scientific
-investigation reveals nothing in this regard. The legends are scant
-now—the old men who remembered them are just about gone. So one is left
-with little about how Indians lived on the Pajarito Plateau during
-prehistoric times.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER V
- Living in the Great Period
-
-
-It would have been an utter impossibility for thousands of Indians to
-have lived off the corn, beans, squash and pumpkins raised in the Valley
-of the Frijoles. But the several hundred who did live here had to eat
-and in order to eat they had to work. The Indians of Tyuonyi were
-farmers and were largely dependent upon the products of the soil. Only a
-small part of their sustenance was from animals and birds. Of course,
-there was game of all kinds. There were deer, perhaps elk and mountain
-sheep, bears, turkeys, rabbits, and fish in the creek. But even though
-this was wild country, several hundred Indians living in the locality
-would soon have depleted the stock with their communal hunts. In the
-fall of the year there were grouse in the high mountains and ducks along
-the Rio Grande. But imagine how difficult it would have been to kill a
-grouse or a duck with a crude bow and arrow. The deer might have been
-the prize of the Indians at Frijoles. They ate the meat and used the
-hides for buckskin. They knew the rabbit and the mouse and knew that the
-woodrat gathered the edible piñon nuts to store away in its hiding
-place. The robber, since there was a large crop of the nuts only once
-every few years! They ate the squirrel. Skunk skins were probably used
-for ceremonial purposes. The raccoon, however scarce, likely formed part
-of the diet of the cliff dweller. And although Indians knew the birds of
-the forest, they probably did not digest the meat of hawks very well. As
-a matter of fact, most birds were too fast for the ever-seeking valley
-dweller with his crude weapons.
-
-Few Indian ruins are excavated in which the remains of corn are not
-found. The ancient inhabitants raised corn—much corn. It was the most
-important item in their diet. The fields in the lower end of the Canyon
-were fertile. The valley was a paradise for primitive people. During
-corn planting time tiny kernels were sown in the rich fertile ground
-which had been broken with digging sticks and crude hoes. There were
-likely no large continuous fields in this valley but only small patches
-where individuals might have had separate fields. Adolph Bandelier
-suggested that the ancient people irrigated in the Valley of the
-Frijoles. How lucky they were if this were true. It is more likely that
-they depended on the waters from the heavens. When it was extremely dry
-the Indian women transported water from the little river in urns on the
-tops of their heads. And so heavy were the jars filled with water that
-they were obliged to use soft pot-rests of grass. Corn was planted in
-April and was likely sown under a waxing moon so that it would grow with
-the moon. The Tewas believed that when corn was sown under a waning
-moon, the seeds quit growing. With careful nursing and watering from
-April until September, the pigmy ears grew. In the early fall the corn
-was gathered by the men.
-
- [Illustration: Cultivating corn]
-
- [Illustration: Carrying water]
-
-A day at Tyuonyi during “corn gathering month” about 1537 A.D. was an
-interesting one. The large plaza inside Puwige was swept clean, if
-customs of yesteryear parallel those of today, and the corn was brought
-therein. Corn, they believed, had life like people and would be glad to
-be brought in and housed and protected. It was placed in piles and
-everybody from the pueblo helped with the husking—men, women and
-children. And when they finished they might have gone to the cliffs to
-help their relatives with their husking. As fast as the ears were husked
-they were thrown on the flat mud roofs of the houses to dry. These
-Indians did not use all the corn at once. The old women thought of crop
-failures the next year and so they saved a double amount of the
-life-giving grains to plant the year after. After all the husking was
-done, the pueblo was swept clean with brooms made of grass bound with
-yucca fiber or corn husks. This was in preparation for a festival—a
-dance perhaps, to observe the gathering-in of the crop. Strange customs
-these Indians had! While corn was standing in the fields it was the
-property of the men. As soon as it was gathered, husked and stored, it
-belonged to the women who were the caretakers, even though they took
-little part in pueblo life at Frijoles which was predominantly a
-masculine society.
-
-Not all the four hundred rooms at Puwige were used for dwellings.
-Perhaps no more than a hundred Indians lived here. The smaller rooms
-around the inside of the circle, more than likely, were used for storage
-purposes. If this were so, it was here that great stores of corn were
-kept—inside the circle, safe from plunderers and robbers. How important
-this corn was! It might have been offered to the Gods as a request for
-various favors and Indian women might have taken corn along when they
-went to look for pottery clay, for clay was a scarce item here. And some
-of the people might have worn little bags of corn around their necks.
-Even in prehistoric times a corn cake would have tasted good. Green corn
-was pounded into a pulp, patted into a cake and then baked on a hearth
-of black stone over a little fireplace. And Indian women could have
-greased the little cakes with the fat of a deer to make them tasty. When
-the corn was all dry old women knelt before their angled metates set in
-bins and with a hand-piece or mano of black basalt they ground. Their
-fingernails were worn oblique on the ends from constant rubbing in
-rhythmic time with a corn-grinding chant sung by the men as they beat a
-drum or two. And they ground on three or four metates. First, they broke
-the corn, then by the time it was passed on and ground on each of the
-metates, it was transformed into fine corn flour. And lastly, it was
-stored away or perhaps packed over the mountains to other villages. Some
-of it might have been traded for buffalo hides by traders who penetrated
-the buffalo region to the east, far out of the realm of the pueblos of
-the Rio Grande and adjacent mountains.
-
- [Illustration: Grinding corn meal]
-
-There were many uses for corn. Bundles of grass were bound together at
-the tops with twisted corn shucks and used as brooms. And even
-cigarettes could have been made by wrapping corn husks around the dry
-leaves of some tobacco plant. Only the old men smoked. Smoking could
-have taken place in one of the kivas at a time when a delegation arrived
-from another pueblo. Keres and Tewas might have held council at Tyuonyi,
-about Tyuonyi itself, and passed around from each to other a fire-stick
-with a glowing end from the fireplace as a lighter. Mats and door-flaps
-were made of plaited corn husks and it would not have been an uncommon
-sight to find these coverings over the openings of some of the houses at
-the base of the cliff. Corn was certainly an important item.
-
-Archæologists have recovered beans also—pinto beans. It was a type known
-to the Indians before the Spaniards ever thought about the New World.
-During some of our excavation work I found that the people who had lived
-in the Ceremonial Cave, far above the concentration of the Canyon’s
-population, knew about beans as well as the rest of the dwellers. Beans
-were one of the staple foods. The people at San Ildefonso today know
-them as “tewatu.” It is possible that the same name was given beans at
-prehistoric Frijoles.
-
-There were many uses for gourds also. Half-sections were scraped clean
-of their pulp and used as dippers and ladles. Whole gourds were used as
-rattles in ceremonial dances. Broken pieces could have been used to
-scrape and smooth wet pottery before it was fired.
-
-Almost everywhere were products of the earth. And they were used to
-their fullest extent. These people even knew about cotton. Whether it
-was ever raised in Hidden Valley is questionable. Pieces of the simple
-over-and-under weave cloth have been found in the ruins. The growing
-season in the mountains might have been too short. It might be that
-these Indians traded with their neighbors to the south for their
-necessary supply of cotton. Cotton was woven into ceremonial
-paraphernalia and also into garments. Men wore cotton breech clouts
-while women wore large mantas of cotton cloth. This cloth was suspended
-from one shoulder downward covering one side of the breast, wrapped once
-around the waist and then taken up the back of the shoulder and tied in
-a knot. A very important item was cotton.
-
-All of the wild plants were utilized and especially when cultivated
-crops gave out. There were many in the valley growing wild along the
-fertile banks of the Rio de Los Frijoles. There were gooseberries,
-currants, the berries of sumac, onions, milkweed, strawberries, blazing
-star, horsemint, dandelions and prickly pears from the round leaf
-cactus. Even the ball cactus might have been eaten. And surely many of
-these were stored for later use. Little did these primitive dwellers
-know what might befall them. Raids by hostile bands often destroyed
-their fields. Fire might have been set to the roofs of their homes. A
-period of drought could have been one of their worries even here in the
-Valley of the Tyuonyi.
-
-Mother Earth gave the Indian everything. She lavishly produced juniper
-and piñon wood for fires, choke-cherry, juniper and oak for stout bows.
-And there was hard wood for the foreshafts of arrows and cane for the
-hind shafts to which turkey feathers were fastened as guides. She
-produced sticks for clubbing rabbits to death. There was rabbit brush
-for yellow paint. The leaves of yucca, when pounded up and dried, could
-be twisted into stout rope and cord. Extremely tiny cords were used in
-making fishnets. Strips of yucca were used in making baskets and also
-for making brushes used in painting and decorating pottery. Stout strips
-of the tough leaf were used for tying. And the Indian even knew how to
-extract the medicinal properties from plants. The Valley of the Frijoles
-produced for the primitive dweller most of the things he had to have for
-successful living.
-
- [Illustration: Making pottery]
-
-While Indian men, it seems, laid the walls of the houses and repaired
-them, and cut the heavy roof timbers—while they planted corn and hunted,
-the women were not idle. The art of pottery making has long been the
-pride of pueblo women. They did the whole job from beginning to end.
-They searched the river and arroyo banks for clay and they carried it to
-their homes where it was kneaded and rolled out into long rod-like
-strands. All pottery was coiled. They began at the very bottom and
-brought the long strands of tempered clay round and round in the general
-shape they desired. And then they patted and smoothed the vessel out
-with wood or gourd scrapers. When it was dry, they applied a slipping or
-wash coat over the outside. When this was done the vessel was decorated
-with various crude designs. It was then put into an open fire smothered
-with wood, corncobs, pine needles and grasses so that the heat would be
-retained. This was their method of firing. When a vessel was removed
-from the fire and the ashes wiped off, a dirty white background with
-black designs appeared. There were several different types of this ware
-made at Frijoles. Today we call this pottery a black-on-white ware.
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO A SECTION OF LONG
- HOUSE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY NAT’L. PARK SERVICE RECONSTRUCTED CLIFF
- HOUSE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY NAT’L. PARK SERVICE RUINS OF PUWIGE]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY NAT’L. PARK SERVICE RUINS OF THE LARGE KIVA]
-
-The most common type known to the archæologist today is Biscuit ware. It
-is so-called because it is exceptionally thick and porous. These Indians
-made flat squatty bowls, and ollas—the common wide-necked jars. These
-were inferior types and not nearly as good pottery as was made by other
-Indian women at other villages. It was tempered with soft volcanic ash.
-Tiny particles were worked into the soft clay to keep it from cracking
-and resulted in a soft powdery ware which was easily broken. It is
-possible that these women were not very well satisfied with their
-pottery made from local materials. The same thing was true at all the
-villages on the Pajarito. When water was put in the jars and bowls they
-became soft. It certainly was not a satisfactory type of ware. And the
-Indian women might have been very much ashamed. Pottery making was their
-work, their art and their pride. But the materials in this country
-simply did not make good hard pottery despite the ability of any
-individual potter.
-
-However, the Keres women made good hard pottery. They had the clays and
-the tempers with which to work. They were still making the ware with the
-slick red finish and glaze designs on the outside which was developed in
-the Little Colorado district of western New Mexico and eastern Arizona.
-They were even making the polychromes or multi-colored wares by this
-time. Trading this pottery might have been the solution to the problem
-of the Tewas even after the Keres-speaking people had been driven from
-the Tyuonyi. New generations of Keres might have had a different way of
-looking at things. Although the red glaze ware had become coarse and
-heavy by this time, it surpassed the soft Biscuit wares made by these
-valley women. They were probably glad to accept it in trade. From about
-1400 A.D. all through to the abandonment of Frijoles Canyon, the glaze
-wares were present. The glazes did not stop here but are found at Tewa
-villages far to the north. These people, too, had been making the same
-soft ware as did the dwellers in the Frijoles. So it does appear that
-some sort of a relationship could have existed between Keres and
-Tewa-speaking groups of people even during these late times.
-
- [Illustration: Pueblo beside a cliff]
-
-The main occupation, it seems, lasted well up toward the close of the
-sixteenth century. Several generations of Indians had lived here either
-in cliff homes or pueblos on the floor of the Canyon. Any night might
-have witnessed hundreds of tiny smokes emerging from smoke holes in
-roofs. The glow from tiny fires inside the cliff rooms lighted the
-doorways in the front walls. A sentry, perhaps, with bow and
-sharp-pointed arrow was posted at the entrance to Puwige, the big
-community house, or on some nearby high point where he could comb the
-landscape with sharp eyes and would warn the pueblo dwellers that
-warriors were approaching. A summer day would suggest men basking in the
-sun or attempting to net out fish from the little river below. Women had
-jars on their heads. Others were gathering berries and greens. A hunter
-was greeted as he strolled forth triumphantly with wild game for a meal
-or two. A sudden summer cloudburst of rain or hail—delightful and
-refreshing and good for the corn too, interrupted the sameness of
-things. The tiny drops sent an Indian mother with baby on her back
-scampering for shelter. Children were running and laughing but ever
-alert. These are only a few of the incidents of six hundred years of
-living, primitive and insecure living, which went on in the Valley of
-the Tyuonyi.
-
- [Illustration: Welcome rain]
-
-Toward the close of the century the waters from the heavens stopped.
-Corn fields dried up and the waters of the little river were no more.
-The curse of the Southwest had hit again. The lands became drier and
-drier as the days passed. Cliff homes were like ovens as the hot sun
-beat down upon them. The same thing happened here as happened to their
-ancestors in the west centuries before. The Tewas, living in the big
-villages to the north, were experiencing the same thing. There was no
-water in the canyons. Water holes had gone dry. And there was no water
-from the heavens to be caught in great rock cisterns. Small groups began
-to move. Others hung on. Could it be that Hidden Valley was to go the
-way of all the rest? It was true. Moving was a necessity now.
-
- [Illustration: Abandoning the pueblo]
-
-It is not known how many Indians lived at this place during those last
-days of drought and it is possible that those who might have remained
-did not wish to be left in Hidden Valley close to Keres land to the
-south. So, slowly but surely, group after group trickled out of the
-Valley of the Frijoles, leaving their homes to the mercy of the
-elements. Within the course of a very short time the entire population
-had evacuated. They crossed deep canyons and high potrero tops—dry
-now—and helped to cut just a little deeper the very same old trails in
-the soft rock, which had been worn down by thousands of moccasined feet
-for countless generations. Before they left it seems that they must have
-destroyed almost everything they possessed. Fire was set to the roof of
-their large kiva. This was the end of the Tyuonyi. Hidden Valley had
-witnessed its last great occupation. It had been occupied by Indians for
-six centuries—Indians who had lived, raised corn and beans and squash
-and pumpkins, and who had fought and died. The occupation of Frijoles
-possibly was tottering at the time the Espejo expedition came up the Rio
-Grande Valley in February of the year 1583. A few stragglers could have
-still been here—who knows? But certainly by the close of the century
-Tyuonyi was a thing of the past. The roofs to the houses were falling
-in—timbers were rotting and cracking under the tremendous weight of
-poles and brush and mud. Walls fell. It was a deserted town with a
-background as colorful as any other pueblo in the Southwest. Hidden
-Valley was still here but its actors were no more.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER VI
- Cliff Dwellers Again
-
-
-By the close of the sixteenth century, it seems, all of the great
-towns—the terraced community apartment houses on the Pajarito—had been
-abandoned. Life in the hills and mountains had grown unbearable because
-of a shortage of water. These people, I have no doubt, disliked leaving
-their mountain homes. The mountains were more conducive to successful
-living than the hot sandy banks of the Rio Grande. But this made no
-difference now—moving was a necessity. Groups pushed off the mesa tops
-and down the canyons into the Valley of the Rio Grande. Soon little
-settlements sprang up. This move certainly must have been a step down
-for the cliff and pueblo dwellers. They had lived for centuries on the
-wooded mesa tops near high mountains and had drunk spring water. Now
-they had only the muddy waters of the Rio Grande. They established the
-village of Perage on the west bank of the river about a mile west of
-their present pueblo of Powhoge or San Ildefonso. Other groups could
-have gone to other Tewa-speaking villages. Just when the pueblo of San
-Ildefonso was established is not certain but it was long, long ago.
-
-Tewas could live in peace now and raise corn, beans, squash and
-pumpkins, for here the muddy waters of the Rio Grande were ever flowing.
-But it was not for the Tewas to say, or think, that they could live in
-peace. The next Spanish expedition taught them this. The expedition
-headed by Don Juan de Oñate was the colonizing expedition into New
-Mexico. In 1598, soldiers, colonists, carts and baggage streamed up the
-Valley of the Rio Grande and took possession of New Mexico in the name
-of His Majesty, the King of Spain. This time the occupation was in
-earnest. Four hundred or more settlers and soldiers marched up the
-valley, the settlers with everything they possessed in the way of tools
-and personal effects. Thousands of domestic animals were brought in. The
-Spanish meant to stay this time.
-
-In the north Tewa country, beyond San Ildefonso, was the Province of
-Yunqueyunque which is thought to have been located near the present San
-Juan Pueblo. It was here that the first capital city of New Mexico was
-established by the Spanish on July 11, 1598. It was called San Gabriel.
-
-It was about this time that the Tewa-speaking people on the Pajarito
-Plateau were abandoning their homes in canyons and on mesa tops and
-moving to the banks of the Rio Grande where they built the pueblo of San
-Ildefonso. These Indians built the pueblo with rows of houses two and
-three stories high and built their kivas on top of the ground instead of
-below the ground as they had done in their former homes.
-
-After Oñate had been removed from office as Governor of New Mexico, the
-Viceroy appointed Don Pedro de Peralta and the capital was moved from
-San Gabriel to Santa Fe in 1610. Governors changed. Each made new laws.
-Indians were used as slaves. They produced goods for the Spanish.
-Children went to school and all went to church. They took on
-Christianity—yes, but they retained their old beliefs and old forms of
-worship. Roman Catholic Missionaries built churches in many of the Rio
-Grande pueblos which the Indians paid for. Some were flogged for not
-wanting to go to church, but this new form of religion was forced upon
-them. Hours were long and hard and taxes imposed by the Spanish were
-exorbitant. This kept up for seven decades.
-
-Rebellion was on the way. Acoma, the Sky City, was the first village to
-rebel. This was quelled. Then the Jemez, then the pueblos of San Felipe
-and Cochiti, our Keres-speaking friends, rebelled. Alameda and Isleta
-were next. But these uprisings were not put down. It all ended up in the
-bloody and terrible Pueblo Rebellion of 1680. Spaniards were murdered
-right and left all over New Mexico. The Tewas of San Ildefonso were in
-sympathy with the Rebellion. They had suffered too, and so they marched
-with their allies regardless of creed, clan or language spoken, to Santa
-Fe, the capital city. The remaining little handful of Spanish refugees
-had gathered in the Palace of the Governors as a last resort. One white
-cross and one red cross were sent to the Spanish Governor Otermin by the
-Indians. White meant peace. Red meant war. The Governor chose war. But
-the cause was hopeless now. The Spanish were outnumbered and their food
-and water supply had been cut off. Surrender was the only alternative,
-so, on August 21, the Spanish left the Palace and back-tracked down the
-Valley of the Rio Grande. The Indian now had his land back. He could
-live in peace along the banks of the river and raise his crops, so he
-thought. No more toil and no more taxes. But this Utopia was not to be
-realized.
-
-Even though the Navaho had taken an active part in the uprisings, he
-began to cause trouble as soon as the Spanish were out of New Mexico.
-The Pueblo people had not counted on this. The Navaho had taken
-everything from the Spaniard that he could use against him, including
-the horse. As soon as the weakened Pueblo people thought they had rid
-themselves of trouble and war and killing, the wild Navaho took
-advantage of the situation. Terror reigned for a decade or more. The
-Navaho swooped down upon the pueblos at night, plundering and killing.
-Putting up with the Spanish might have been easier to take than this.
-But all was to change again. Don Diego de Vargas marched up the Rio
-Grande with another colonizing expedition, soldiers and missionaries.
-Pueblo after pueblo was reconquered and Santa Fe was re-entered in 1693.
-The Pueblo people were not too hard to bring to submission this time.
-The Spanish would help their warriors to drive off their enemies. The
-pueblos had had about all they could take from the Navaho.
-
-Then there were the Tewa villages to be dealt with up the Rio Grande
-between Santa Fe and the pueblo of San Juan. The San Ildefonso Tewa fled
-to a high black rock known as “Black Mesa.” It had been used by them for
-years as a place of defense. From its top the country can be seen for
-miles around. It was here that they held out against the Spanish
-soldiers from January until September of 1694. They finally surrendered
-after several unsuccessful assaults at their rock and a siege which
-lasted for five days. Black Mesa figures considerably in the mythology
-of the Tewas. They say that during this seven-months period while their
-people were besieged on the high mesa top, brave men descended through
-the precipitous gap during the night to the Rio Grande below to get
-water for their marooned people. Black Mesa is sometimes known as
-“Mesita Huerfano” or “Orphan Mesa.” It is said that a giant lived here
-at one time and caught children from the pueblo which he and his wife
-and daughter ate. He was at last killed by the Tewa War Gods. Legend has
-it that the giant’s heart is still on the mesa top in the form of a
-white rock.
-
-We have almost forgotten the Keres-speaking people to the south who were
-also having trouble. During the Rebellion, the Cochitenos abandoned
-their pueblo and moved back up the Cañada de Cochiti to Kotyiti. This
-was, according to their legends, the last site they occupied after being
-driven from the Tyuonyi and before establishing the present Cochiti on
-the banks of the Rio Grande. Kotyiti was built on top of a high mesa
-known to the Spanish as “Potrero Viejo.” It is a mesa about two miles
-long and several hundred feet high. It was a natural fortress for the
-Indians, and it was to this fortress that the Keres moved back and built
-their homes shortly after the beginning of the Rebellion. This fortress
-was known as “Hanat Cochiti” or “Cochiti Above.” With the coming of
-Diego de Vargas in 1693, the Indians fled from the pueblo on the river
-to their mesa and put up a stiff battle, but in vain. After their
-reconquest, broken and tired of trouble, they moved back to Cochiti in
-1694 where they have been ever since.
-
-But what trouble the Tewas of San Ildefonso did have! There suddenly
-came another outburst of pueblo rebellion in June of 1696 and the people
-of San Ildefonso burned their beautiful church which had been built for
-them by the Spanish with Indian labor, sweat, blood and taxes. Two
-priests were caught in the burning building as well as several other
-Spaniards. There they all perished. The San Ildefonso Tewa have a legend
-and a belief that they should always move to the south and never to the
-north. But someone wanted the pueblo moved to the north. And so there
-was a contest between good people and sorcerers, and the sorcerers won
-by witchcraft. The pueblo was moved to the north. The San Ildefonso
-people believe that this is the reason why they had pestilence and
-famines, and why their people decreased in numbers. Such trouble they
-had!
-
-Could it be that during these trying and troublesome years at the close
-of the seventeenth century, some of these heart-sick and war-weary
-Indians decided that life back on the high forested mesa tops or in deep
-canyons to the south where their ancestors had lived, just a century
-before, would be better than this? Could they tear themselves away from
-their brethren at night and sneak south, back into the hills and down
-into deep canyons protected by high vertical cliffs, even into Hidden
-Valley? Spanish soldiers on horseback could not find them here. They
-could not follow the old Indian trails. Perhaps those known as the “good
-people” of San Ildefonso were so opposed to moving their pueblo a little
-to the north that they refused to have any part in this plan and
-preferred moving far to the south.
-
-To assume that such a move took place would not be folly even if we had
-no supporting evidence. Families could have removed themselves to the
-hills of the Pajarito. Here Hidden Valley offered them protection. It
-was deep in the south country and water had returned to the creek. The
-drought period was over and there would be water from the heavens again.
-The old abandoned dwellings in Frijoles Canyon were in ruins. Roof
-timbers had rotted and walls had fallen. These were the homes of their
-ancestors. But with very little work these homes could be made livable
-again. And so, in a remote section in the lower end of Frijoles, the
-Indians again went to work in a group of rooms high above the floor of
-the Canyon. They were a quarter-mile from the ruins of the Long House
-and Puwige which were in open sight.
-
-Like true cliff dwellers in prehistoric times they rebuilt old homes
-into new ones. Rooms were cleaned out. The old roof structures were
-removed from the inside. Loose building stones were removed from the
-broken-down walls. And the cave rooms above were also cleaned out.
-Indian men again cut pine timbers for roof poles with crude stone axes.
-They rebuilt walls and laid the poles over the tops. Indian women mixed
-mud—good hard Tewa mud. They brought in clay from nearby arroyos or from
-the Rio Grande and raised their talus houses two stories high. Some of
-the caves, after a hundred years, had eroded beyond use. Doorways and
-fronts had fallen. Indians gathered fallen building blocks strewn along
-the base of the cliff which had been fashioned by their ancestors. They
-built artificial fronts to the caves and plastered them over with mud.
-Fine clay mortar was smeared over the floor and rough surfaced walls.
-Doorways were built in the front walls of houses. Ladders were built. A
-corn patch was planted. Game likely was plentiful now. Black volcanic
-glass was chipped into sharp arrow points. A deer or two were brought in
-triumphantly from a hunt. And they created new homes for themselves and
-brought life back to Hidden Valley while their kin and kind struggled on
-and on with Spaniard and Navaho.
-
-Safe at last, they lived again. Corn was harvested in the fall of the
-year and shucked and stored. Indian women ground corn on old worn
-metates left there a century before and the men again chanted away in
-time with the beat of a drum which echoed between steep canyon walls.
-Baskets were made of juniper and yucca. Blankets of fur and feathers
-were sewn together. Stout cord was twisted from the fibers of yucca.
-Indian women made brooms of grass tied with corn husks and yucca fiber
-to sweep their sooty rooms, while brown-skinned babies rolled in the
-dust. Gourds were scraped and made into utility vessels and Indian women
-again carried water in urns on the tops of their heads from the little
-creek far below.
-
-It undoubtedly took some readjustment to live in the cliffs again after
-a century of acculturational contact with the Spanish. Just how many
-Indians or how large a group returned to the Canyon homes is not known.
-But by this time we see that the Indian had acquired a few things from
-the Spanish either by trade or thievery. This little group brought with
-them pieces of metal and wooden objects of possible foreign origin,
-objects brought in by the Spanish to the Rio Grande. One such object,
-which we found, was a two-pronged pick of viburnum, elaborately carved
-on top with a sharp steel blade. It was not much longer than a hair-pin
-and reminded one of such. Its use is still puzzling. And the Indians
-brought woolen cloth which was definitely post-Spanish. The Spaniards
-had brought the sheep to New Mexico. The weave of the cloth was such
-that it could not be mistaken. Could it have been from a Spanish garment
-or was it Indian-made? It is even possible that these people were
-wearing woven garments of wool when they reoccupied the Frijoles.
-
-The little community was a poor one. There is no doubt about it. The
-Indian made fire in the same old way with fire drills. A blunt round
-piece of wood was turned so fast in the groove of a flat piece of wood
-that fire was produced. These people used cultivated tobacco at this
-time—a variety never before discovered in the Southwest of this early
-age. During a moment of temptation, the writer rolled a cigarette from
-part of this Indian mix which he found buried in a small red bowl. He
-smoked it without any ill effects. It looked like tobacco, smelled like
-tobacco and tasted like tobacco. Discarded fragments of pipes were found
-which had bowls of hard wood burned through. Moccasins of deer skin sewn
-together with sinew were found. Could they have been made in Frijoles
-Canyon or were they brought into the valley by these Indians? Whichever
-was the case, they were worn out. One pair was half-soled—not like our
-half-soles today, but on the inside. A new piece of buckskin had been
-cut and fitted and sewn to the inside of one of the worn-out moccasins
-which had been discarded.
-
-The chirp of a turkey hen or the gobble of a gobbler created a dead
-silence in any primitive household. The calls echoed and could be heard
-for a half-mile. Even today, we stop and listen and follow the call just
-for a glimpse of the wild turkey. It is exciting. A tenseness of nerve
-and muscle envelops a person. An Indian father crept noiselessly down
-the steep slope to the valley far below—stopped, listened—not a sound
-but the whining of the wind through the high tops of pines or the caw of
-a raven flying high above, or the rolling waters of the little river.
-Following again and picking each step, bow and arrow in hand, ready to
-draw, he stopped. The turkeys were coming closer and behind a rock he
-hid or laid close to the little river out of sight. They were almost
-upon him, feeding peacefully on grasshoppers and bugs. A well directed
-arrow would mean meat for the whole family. That the Indian used only
-the feathers of the turkey is an idea of the past. The broken food bones
-are found in the ruins of ancient homes. Besides using the meat of the
-turkey for food, the Indian used the feathers for ceremonial purposes
-and strips of turkey feather spines made excellent wrappings for making
-arrow guides.
-
- [Illustration: Decaying pueblo]
-
-Such was life in Hidden Valley after the conquest of New Mexico by the
-Spanish. Living in the Tyuonyi at this time was apparently a necessity.
-It could again have been our Tewa-speaking friends who raised corn,
-beans, squash and pumpkins in the beautiful and colorful Valley of the
-Frijoles and who watched the sun, day after day, pass down behind the
-cliff to the land of Sipapu. But time again had a way of making things
-right, though not just as the Indian desired it. After the close of the
-seventeenth century, it seems, Frijoles was abandoned again. The Indians
-left their cliff homes and moved back to the Valley of the Rio Grande.
-There was little trouble with the Spanish from then on and the Indian
-wars were over and all were subdued and the ancient homes in Frijoles
-continued to crumble and walls continued to fall. A little time was all
-that was necessary to completely cover the abandoned dwellings. Howling
-winds beat sharp particles of dirt against crumbling walls and
-eventually filled them in and covered them. Deep kivas were no more.
-Small stones, boulders and dust fell from the cliffs covering up talus
-houses. Huge slides covered many homes and the wind and rain beat
-against the vulnerable cliff walls and eroded many of the caves almost
-beyond identification. Indian occupation was ended now but Hidden Valley
-still remained. The Rito de Los Frijoles continued to cut its course
-deeper and deeper through the soft volcanic ash as it had done through
-six hundred years of Indian living. Struggle had ended over the Tyuonyi.
-It was deserted to the ravages of time. To the south the Keres were
-settled now, and to the north the Tewas. They were content; and Hidden
-Valley was left alone.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER VII
- The Spanish Era
-
-
-The early part of the eighteenth century saw the Spanish interested in
-more than Pueblo Indians. There was the actual colonization of New
-Mexico and the war with France which drew their attention. New Mexican
-land was divided into tracts or land grants. The Spanish had combed it
-all. They knew about the canyon today known as the “Frijoles,” the
-Tyuonyi of the Cochiti Indians. The tract lay just south of the bounds
-of what is known as the “Ramon Vigil Grant.” It was in litigation much
-of the time. The land was cleared, broken and put under cultivation
-during the latter part of the eighteenth century. The valley floor was
-cleared and no doubt some of the homes occupied by Indians years before
-were obliterated. This valley was given the name of El Rito de Los
-Frijoles sometime prior to the year 1780. For years, people have said
-that the Canyon derived its name from the fact that Indians raised beans
-here in prehistoric times. True, prehistoric Indians did grow beans at
-Frijoles but the derivation of its name probably had no connection with
-any Indian occupation.
-
-With the coming of a new century, Spanish people were accused of living
-in the caves of the Rito like barbarians. This picturesque Hidden Valley
-was a rendezvous for cattle thieves and persons whose characters could
-be questioned. It was a den for robbers who greatly troubled the people
-around the country, so, in 1811 the Spanish Governor ordered all its
-inhabitants to move out. The Canyon must have been occupied more or less
-continuously throughout the nineteenth century by farming groups of
-Spanish-Americans. And they were troubled by Indian raids from time to
-time until the latter part of the century.
-
- [Illustration: PHOTO BY GEORGE THOMPSON THE AUTHOR AT AN OLD HIDDEN
- TRAIL]
-
- [Illustration: COURTESY NAT’L. PARK SERVICE A PARTY OF VISITORS AT
- LONG HOUSE]
-
-The walls of ancient caves today are pocked with nail holes.
-Sheepherders might have camped for a while and left initials and dates
-picked in the soft stone. Cow bones strewn at the base of the cliff, now
-dry and white and brittle with age, are the only sad memorials of what
-went on. And many are the hidden legends. Every little canyon in the
-locality has a name. Something happened to give them their names. One,
-Water Canyon, was formerly known as “Diesmo” or “Ten-Percent Canyon,”
-because a priest collected ten percent of the lambs from sheep owners as
-a tithe for the church and herded his flocks in this valley. Everything
-has a meaning in this colorful land. There still exists today a circular
-platform of blocks of tuff on the floor of Frijoles Canyon. Local
-farmers claim that it belonged to them and their fathers before them. It
-was used as a threshing floor. I have heard that it was a dance pavilion
-or platform and was advised that if I brought over some of the Indian
-women from San Ildefonso and asked them to do what they were supposed to
-do, they would begin dancing the ring dance. The stories are many but
-will the truth ever be known? Time is slipping by.
-
-Within quite recent years the Navaho has used the old trails, just
-passing through, going to some pueblo to trade perhaps. Even Zuñi
-Indians have passed through the Valley of the Tyuonyi—resting a few
-minutes and drinking of the waters of El Rito de Los Frijoles as they
-might have done in years past when they were supposed to have visited
-the Stone Lions to the south. And Indians from Cochiti have returned to
-their Tyuonyi during summer months to raise a little corn. These people
-religiously return to the homes of their ancestors. Even today, certain
-of the old Tewa men from northern pueblos trudge south into timbered
-mountainous country and erect shrines near their ancestral homes. They
-carve miniature pueblos three and four stories high out of volcanic
-boulders of soft ash. They build altars and burn ceremonial fires. They
-dig holes in the soft ground, line them with little rocks and cover the
-holes with green branches from the juniper tree. Many times I have seen
-evidences of these ceremonies along dry arroyo banks on the Pajarito
-Plateau.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER VIII
- Present Times
-
-
-In 1880, Adolph F. Bandelier, famous Swiss ethnologist, archivist and
-historian, entered the Valley of the Frijoles.
-
-At the time, he was connected with the Archæological Institute of
-America and had been sent to New Mexico to work among the Indians who
-today live in mud-walled pueblos up and down the banks of the Rio
-Grande. Bandelier spent a great many days at Santo Domingo and Cochiti
-seeking out legends and myths regarding the people’s past and present
-and it was from the Cochitenos that Bandelier learned of Tyuonyi.
-Bandelier’s descriptions of the surrounding country are thoroughly
-detailed. He must have possessed a very keen mind to have so well
-described geographical features in such brief association. He entered
-Frijoles Canyon, the Tyuonyi of the Cochiti Indians, on October 23 of
-that year.
-
-It has been said that Bandelier lived in the caves of the Rito de Los
-Frijoles, and, according to stories passed around by hearsay, he could
-have lived in a dozen different caves. It would be nice, and perhaps
-poetic, to say that the famous student hung his coat or his hat on such
-and such a nail, when wire nails such as are found in these caves
-probably did not exist during Bandelier’s visits to the Canyon. The
-general opinion among people who remember Bandelier is that he did spend
-some time in one particular cave high above the Canyon floor. It was a
-double-chambered cave overlooking Puwige and the entire broad and open
-lower end of the Canyon. The view was perfect. It might have been here
-that Bandelier organized some of his notes which resulted in the
-never-to-be-forgotten ethno-historic novel, _The Delight Makers_. People
-have said that Adolph Bandelier lived for years at Frijoles, but this is
-not true. His investigation of practically the entire Southwest took
-only five years to complete. So we might limit his stay to days, but
-those days counted. It was Bandelier’s intent to portray history and
-archæology in the guise of fiction and here he laid the basis for his
-famous novel which brought fifteenth-century dwellers of the Tyuonyi to
-life again.
-
-The works of Charles F. Lummis will never be forgotten—_The Land of Poco
-Tiempo_; _Mesa, Canyon and Pueblo_. Bandelier and Lummis were very good
-friends and although their opinions and ideas conflicted at times, this
-friendship was never broken. Many times has Lummis visited Frijoles and
-many times has he stayed in the old Indian cave rooms, even in quite
-recent times, when other accommodations were available.
-
-In 1907, Judge A. J. Abbot settled in the Valley of the Frijoles. He
-built a ranch house out of the ancient building stones of volcanic ash.
-The stones came from Puwige, the big community house. Cut and fashioned
-in the sixteenth century or thereabout, by prehistoric Indians, they
-were used again. The place was known as “Ten Elder Ranch,” because of
-the box-elder trees growing nearby. The ranch changed hands three times
-and was subsequently known as “Frijoles Canyon Ranch” until the old
-buildings were torn down and replaced by modern unique pueblo style
-buildings designed by government engineers and known as “Frijoles Canyon
-Lodge.” It would be an utter impossibility to name all of the famous
-personages who have visited Frijoles or were entertained at the old
-ranch place. The Commoners and the Nobility, people from the four
-corners of the globe came, some of them leaving a little remembrance or
-token of their appreciation—a poem about the Frijoles perhaps, a card, a
-thank-you letter, an invitation—they are too numerous to mention.
-
-In 1916, the area was created a National Monument and named in honor of
-Adolph Francis Alphonse Bandelier. It has been known as such ever since.
-But to the “old timers” it is still the “Rito” or “El Rito de Los
-Frijoles.” They remember the times they either walked or came on
-horseback from the north rim into the boundary valley—the valley between
-ancient Keres and Tewa lands—into a Hidden Valley clustered with the
-works of primitive Indians, the ruins alone being capable of revealing
-the incidents of a buried and hidden past. Their heads are gray now and
-they remember with the semblance of tears in their eyes.
-
-From 1916 until 1932, the entire area was under the administration of
-the United States Forest Service of the Department of Agriculture. At
-this time it was transferred to the National Park Service, Department of
-the Interior. Thousands of visitors go to Bandelier every year chiefly
-just to look at this magnificent Valley of the Frijoles. A new modern
-highway replaces the old trail from the north cliff. The visitor now
-drives down to the valley floor to spend an hour or so on a tour
-conducted by the National Park Service, to hear the story of how Indians
-lived in the cliff homes and in pueblos long before Columbus discovered
-America. They wonder about cliff dwellers while ravens soar above the
-valley floor and caw just as they did four hundred years ago. They see
-the visible remains of the great kiva on the Canyon floor and stroll on
-to Puwige, the big community house. They view over two hundred excavated
-rooms, four hundred years old. They see the narrow passage through the
-east side and the remains of obstructions used to slow down the
-attackers of old. And then they climb to the base of the weathered and
-sun-drenched cliffs where many an Indian woman swept rubbish from her
-kitchen out on to the steep slope and ground many an ear of corn on
-crude metate. Visitors climb into caves, the floors covered with dust
-and ceilings still blackened with smoke. They push the hands of the
-clock back to the Stone Age, while the Keres to the south go on living
-on the banks of the muddy Rio Grande, apparently forgetting that there
-ever was a Tyuonyi, war or trouble; and while the Tewas to the north,
-having settled themselves, seem to have forgotten their ancestral
-home—the “Frijoles,” the National Park Service strives to protect,
-preserve, and make the ruins in Hidden Valley live again.
-
-
-
-
- SOURCE MATERIAL
-
-
- Bandelier, A. F. _Final Report of Investigations Among the Indians of
- the Southwestern United States._ Part II, Papers of the
- Archæological Institute of America, American Series, No. IV,
- Cambridge, 1892.
- —— _Documentary History of the Rio Grande Valley._ In _Indians of the
- Rio Grande Valley_, Hewett and Bandelier. University of New
- Mexico and School of American Research, Albuquerque, 1937.
- —— _The Delight Makers._ Dodd, Mead and Company, New York, 1942.
- Baumann, G. _Frijoles Canyon Pictographs._ Writers’ Editions, Inc.,
- Santa Fe, New Mexico, 1939.
- Beals, R. L. _Preliminary Report on the Ethnography of the Southwest._
- National Park Service, U. S. Department of the Interior,
- Berkeley, California, 1935.
- Bryan, Kirk. _Regional Planning._ Part VI—The Rio Grande Joint
- Investigation in the upper Rio Grande Basin in Colorado, New
- Mexico, and Texas, 1936-37, VI, National Resources Committee,
- February 1938, Washington.
- Castetter, E. F. _Early Tobacco Utilization and Cultivation in the
- American Southwest_, American Anthropologist, N. S., 45, 1943.
- Chapman, K. M. _Pajaritan Pictography, The Cave Pictographs of The
- Rito de Los Frijoles._ Reprinted from Appendix I, _The
- Pajarito Plateau and Its Ancient People_, Edgar L. Hewett,
- Albuquerque, 1938.
- Dumarest, N. D. _Notes on Cochiti, New Mexico._ Memoirs, American
- Anthropological Association, VI, No. 3, 1920.
- Hammond, G. P. _Coronado’s Seven Cities._ United States Coronado
- Exposition Commission, Albuquerque, 1940.
- Hammond, G. P., and Rey, A. _Expedition Into New Mexico Made by
- Antonio de Espejo, 1582-1583, as Revealed by Diego Perez de
- Luxan._ The Quivira Society, Los Angeles, 1929.
- Harrington, J. P., _Ethnogeography of the Tewa Indians_, 29th Annual
- Report, Bureau of American Ethnology, Washington, 1916.
- Harrington, J. P., and Freire-Marreco, B. _Ethnobotany of the Tewa
- Indians_, Bulletin 55, Bureau of American Ethnology,
- Washington, 1916.
- Hawley, F. M. _The Significance of the Dated Prehistory of Chetro
- Ketl, Chaco Canyon, New Mexico._ University of New Mexico
- Press, Albuquerque, 1934.
- Henderson, J., and Harrington, J. P., _Ethnozoology of the Tewa
- Indians_, Bulletin 56, Bureau of American Ethnology,
- Washington, 1914.
- Hendron, J. W., _The Stabilization of the Large Kiva, Frijoles Canyon,
- Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico._ Unpublished report,
- typed copies available at Southwestern Monuments, Santa Fe,
- and at Bandelier National Monument. 1937.
- —— _The Stabilization of the Restored Talus House. The Rito de Los
- Frijoles, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico._
- Southwestern Monuments Monthly Report Supplement, Coolidge,
- Arizona, December, 1937.
- —— _The Stabilization of the Kiva in the Great Ceremonial Cave, El
- Rito de Los Frijoles, Bandelier National Monument, New
- Mexico._ Southwestern Monuments Monthly Report Supplement,
- Coolidge, Arizona, January, 1938.
- —— _Archaeological Report on the Stabilization of Tyuonyi, The Rito de
- Los Frijoles, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico._
- Southwestern Monuments Monthly Report Supplement, Coolidge,
- Arizona, February, 1938.
- —— _Prehistory of El Rito de Los Frijoles._ Southwestern Monuments
- Association, Technical Series, No. 1, Coolidge, Arizona, 1940.
- Hewett, E. L., _Antiquities of the Jemez Plateau, New Mexico._
- Bulletin 32, Bureau of American Ethnology, Washington, 1906.
- —— _The Excavations at El Rito de Los Frijoles, in 1909._ American
- Anthropologist, n. s. II, No. 4, 1909.
- —— _The Excavations at Tyuonyi, New Mexico, in 1908._ American
- Anthropologist, n. s. II, No. 3, 1909.
- —— _Pajarito Plateau and Its Ancient People._ Handbook of
- Archæological History. University of New Mexico and School of
- American Research, Albuquerque, 1938.
- Luxan. See Hammond and Rey.
- Mera, H. P. _A Proposed Revision of the Rio Grande Glaze-Paint
- Sequence._ Laboratory of Anthropology, Technical Series,
- Bulletin No. 5, Santa Fe, 1932.
- —— _Wares Ancestral to Tewa Polychrome._ Laboratory of Anthropology,
- Technical Series, Bulletin No. 4, Santa Fe, 1933.
- —— _A Survey of the Biscuit Ware Area in Northern New Mexico._
- Laboratory of Anthropology, Technical Series, Bulletin No. 6,
- Santa Fe, 1934.
- —— _Ceramic Clues to the Prehistory of North Central New Mexico._
- Laboratory of Anthropology, Technical Series, Bulletin No. 8,
- Santa Fe, 1935.
- —— _Some Aspects of the Largo Cultural Phase, Northern New Mexico._
- American Antiquity III-3, January, 1938.
- —— _Style Trends of Pueblo Pottery._ Memoirs of the Laboratory of
- Anthropology, VIII, Santa Fe, N. M., 1939.
- —— _Population Changes in the Rio Grande Glaze-Paint Area._ Laboratory
- of Anthropology, Technical Series, Bulletin No. 9, Santa Fe,
- New Mexico, 1940.
- Morley, S. G. _The Rito de Los Frijoles in the Spanish Archives._
- Appendix II, _The Pajarito Plateau and Its Ancient People_.
- Edgar L. Hewett, Albuquerque, 1938.
- Parsons, E. C., _Taos Pueblo_. George Banta Publishing Co., Menasha,
- Wisconsin, 1936.
- Reiter, Paul. _The Jemez Pueblo of Unshagi._ Parts I and II.
- University of New Mexico Press, Albuquerque, 1938.
- Shepard, Anna O. _Rio Grande Glaze Paint Ware._ Reprinted from
- Carnegie Institution of Washington Publication 528, pp.
- 129-262, 1942.
- Stallings, W. S., Jr. _A Tree-Ring Chronology for the Rio Grande
- Drainage in Northern New Mexico._ Reprinted from the
- Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, Vol. 19, No.
- 9, Washington, 1933.
- —— _Southwestern Dated Ruins._ Tree-Ring Bulletin, V. 4, No. 2,
- Tucson, 1937.
- White, L. A. _The Pueblo of San Felipe._ Memoirs of the American
- Anthropological Association, No. 38, Menasha, Wisconsin, 1932.
- Whitman, W. _The San Ildefonso of New Mexico._ In _Acculturation in
- Seven American Indian Tribes_, Ralph Linton, D.
- Appleton-Century Co., New York, 1940.
- Winship, G. P. _The Coronado Expedition, 1540-1542._ Fourteenth Annual
- Report of the Bureau of Ethnology, Pt. 1, 1896.
-
-
-
-
- GLOSSARY
-
-
- A
- Acoma (áh-ko-mah). “People of the White Rock”; Keres-speaking village
- of the western group occupied since prehistoric times.
- adobe (a-dóugh-bay). Thick mud with high clay content; also a
- sun-baked brick made of clay.
- Alameda (alah-máy-dah). “Cottonwood Grove”; Spanish-American village.
- Albuquerque (al-bu-kér-keh). Largest city in New Mexico; named after
- the Duke of Alburquerque, Viceroy of Mexico.
- Antonio de Espejo (day es-páy-ho). Leader of the third Spanish
- expedition into New Mexico in 1583.
- arroyo (ah-ró-yo). Water course or channel seasonally dry.
- awanyu (uh-wan-you). “Plumbed or feathered serpent”; mythological
- guardian of springs.
-
-
- B
- Bandelier (ban-duh-leér). Author of _The Delight Makers_; student,
- archæologist, historian and linguist who spent much time among
- the Keres. Bandelier lived at the pueblo of Cochiti and was
- very popular among the Indians.
- Bernalillo (bear-nah-lée-yoh). Apparently a diminutive of Bernal;
- founded by Vargas in 1695; present-day Spanish-American
- village.
- bigotes (bee-gó-tes). “Whiskers.”
- buckskin. The tanned hide of a deer.
-
-
- C
- canyon. A deep valley with high steep slopes.
- Canyon del Alamo (del á-lah-mo). “Cottonwood Canyon.”
- Cachiti (ká-chee-tee). Keres-speaking village of the sixteenth
- century; of obscure etymology.
- Cañada de Cochiti (ka-nyá-da day kó-cha-tee). “Cochiti Canyon.” Cañada
- refers to a shallow and wide canyon.
- Capulín (ka-poo-léen). “Chokecherry.” Chokecherry Canyon.
- Chaco (chá-ko). A canyon in northwestern New Mexico. Chaco Canyon
- National Monument.
- cibola (sée-bo-lah). “Buffalo.”
- Cochiti. Spanish for Cachiti.
- cacique (ka-cee-ke). Chief religious officer in a pueblo. There are
- usually two town chiefs in each pueblo representing two
- separate moities either Turquoise or Squash.
- Coronado (koro-náh-tho). Leader of the first Spanish expedition into
- New Mexico in 1540.
- cronies. Old people; friends; chums.
- Cuapa (coo-áh-pa). Prehistoric village of the Keres-speaking people;
- meaning unknown.
-
-
- D
- diesmo (diéz-mo). “Ten percent”; tithe; refers to present-day Water
- Canyon.
- Don Diego de Vargas (don deeáy-go day vár-gas). Leader of the
- reconquest of New Mexico in 1693 after the Pueblo Rebellion of
- 1680.
- Don Juan de Oñate (hwan day o-yná-te). Leader of the colonizing
- expedition into New Mexico in 1598.
- Don Pedro de Peralta (páy-dro day pe-rál-tah). Successor to Oñate as
- Governor of New Mexico in 1610.
-
-
- E
- El Rito de Los Frijoles (el ree-toe day los free-hó-lays). “The little
- river of the beans”; bean creek.
-
-
- F
- Franciscans (fran-cis-cans). Religious order established by Saint
- Francis of Assisi.
- Francisco Sanchez Chamuscado (fran-cées-co sán-chess chamoos-cáh-tho).
- Leader of the second Spanish expedition into New Mexico in
- 1581.
- friar (fryer). Member of a male religious order.
-
-
- H
- Haatze (ha-áht-say). “Earth”; “World”; a ruin of the Keres southwest
- of Tyuonyi.
- Hanat Cochiti (há-not kó-cha-tee). “Cochiti Above”; Potrero Viejo.
- Hemes (háy-mess). Indian pueblo thirty odd miles west of Bandelier
- National Monument.
- Hernando de Alvarado (er-nán-do day al-var-áh-tho). Captain under
- Coronado during the expedition of 1540.
-
-
- I
- Isleta (ees-láy-tah). “Little Island”; modern Indian village located
- about thirteen miles south of Albuquerque on the banks of the
- Rio Grande.
-
-
- J
- Jemez (háy-mess). Spanish for Hemes.
-
-
- K
- katsina (cot-sée-nah). Supernatural being.
- Keres (care-es). Language spoken by the people at Cochiti, Santo
- Domingo, San Felipe, Santa Ana and Sia; there are also the
- western Keres villages of Acoma and (historic) Laguna not
- included here.
- kiva (key-vah). Ceremonial chamber; men’s club house.
- Kotyiti (cóat-yi-tee). Of obscure etymology; Old Cochiti; Hanat
- Cochiti; Potrero Viejo.
-
-
- L
- La Bajada (lah bah-háh-tha). “The steep slope”; a hill between
- Albuquerque and Santa Fe was given this name.
- La Cueva Pintada (lah cuáy-vah peen-táh-tha). “The Painted Cave”;
- located southwest of Tyuonyi in Capulin Canyon.
- Los Confiados (los cone-feeáh-thos). “The Trusting Souls” (people); a
- mythical town near Cochiti named by the Spanish in 1583.
-
-
- M
- mano (máh-no). “Hand”; hand-piece of flat stone for grinding corn.
- manta (mán-ta). “Dress”; “Blanket.”
- Marcos de Nisa (már-kos day née-sah). A Franciscan friar.
- mesa (máy-sah). Flat-topped high hill or table land.
- Mesa Verde (vér-they). “Green”; now a National Park in southwestern
- Colorado.
- Mesita Huerfano (may-sée-tah weár-fa-no). “Orphan Mesa”; Black Mesa.
- metate (may-táh-tay). Flat stone for grinding corn. Base stone.
- moccasins. Heel-less shoe of soft leather worn by Indians,
- moiety. A division of a tribe in which the cacique, either Summer or
- Winter, has charge of the ceremonials during his respective
- season.
-
-
- N
- Navaho (náh-vah-ho). Semi-nomadic Indians living west of the pueblo
- area.
- Navawi (náh-vah-wee). “Place of a hunting trap”; “pit-fall gap”;
- ruined pueblo northeast of Tyuonyi.
- neolithic (nee-o-lith-ik). New stone age.
-
-
- O
- olla (ó-yah). Pottery jar for water.
- Otermin (o-ter-méen). Governor of New Mexico at the outbreak of the
- Pueblo Rebellion of 1680.
-
-
- P
- padre (páh-dray). Monk or priest.
- Pajarito (pah-ha-rée-toe). “Little Bird”; Pajarito Plateau.
- Pecos (pay-kos). “Place down where the stone is on top”; Indian
- village east of the Rio Grande.
- Perage (pear-áh-gay). “Small rodent which jumps like a kangaroo”;
- “place of a species of kangaroo rat”; a ruined pueblo across
- the Rio Grande from San Ildefonso.
- pinto (peen-toe). A type of bean grown by Indians in prehistoric
- times.
- piñon (pee-ynón). Edible seed of pine; pinus edulis.
- plaza (pláh-sah). “Inner court”; area in the center of a town for
- public gathering.
- potrero (po-tré-roh). High, narrow mesa-top between canyons.
- Potsui’i (póte-su-wee-ee). “Gap where the water sinks”; prehistoric
- pueblo northeast of Tyuonyi.
- Pohoge (po-hó-gay). “Where the water cuts down through”; Tewa name for
- San Ildefonso.
- prehistoric. Referring to times before the Coronado expedition of
- 1540.
- pueblo (pwé-blo). “Village”; “Town.”
- Puwige (poo-wí-gay). “Where the bottoms of the pottery vessels are
- wiped or smoothed thin”; ruined pueblo on the floor of
- Frijoles Canyon; the big community house. Sometimes called
- Tyuonyi.
-
-
- Q
- Quirex (keer-esh). Province of five Keresan villages on the Rio Grande
- in 1540.
-
-
- R
- ramada (rah-máh-tha). Open flat-roofed porch built of poles and brush;
- a shelter.
- Ramon Vigil Grant (rah-móan vee-híll). Huge tract of land north of
- Frijoles Canyon.
- Rio Chama (ree-oh chá-mah). “Chama River.”
- Rio Grande (ree-oh grán-day). “Big River.”
-
-
- S
- Sandia (san-déea). “Watermelon”; also a modern Tiwa-speaking Indian
- pueblo twelve miles north of Albuquerque occupied since
- prehistoric times.
- Sangre de Cristo (sán-gray day crées-to). “Blood of Christ”; refers to
- a mountain range rising to great heights.
- San Felipe (san fay-leé-pay). “Saint Phillip”; modern pueblo of the
- Keres group occupied since prehistoric times.
- San Gabriel (san gah-breeáyl). First capital of New Mexico; in the
- vicinity of San Juan Pueblo.
- San Ildefonso (san ill-day-fáhn-so). Modern Indian village speaking
- the Tewa language; twenty miles northwest of Santa Fe on the
- banks of the Rio Grande.
- San Juan (san hwán). Modern Indian village speaking the Tewa language;
- about thirty miles northwest of Santa Fe. Not to be mistaken
- for the San Juan area in northwestern New Mexico.
- Sankawi (sáng-ka-wee). “Gap of the sharp round cactus”; “place of the
- round cactus”; prehistoric pueblo northeast of Tyuonyi.
- Santa Ana (sán-tah ana). Modern Indian village speaking the Keres
- language.
- Santo Domingo (sánto do-míng-go). Modern Indian village speaking the
- Keres language.
- Shipapolima (she-pa-po-lee-ma). Place where the Zuñi people entered
- this world; spiritual entrance to the underworld.
- Sia (see-a). Modern Indian village speaking the Keres language;
- occupied since prehistoric times.
- Sipapu (see-pa-poo). Spiritual entrance to the underworld of certain
- Pueblo Indians; an opening is generally found in the kiva
- floor and is called Sipapu; similar to Shipapolima.
-
-
- T
- talus (tay-lus). A slope formed at the base of a cliff by material
- falling from above.
- Tanos (táh-nos). Applied to various groups of people who inhabited the
- country east of the Rio Grande south of the San
- Ildefonso-Tesuque Tewa region.
- Tewa (tay-wa). Language spoken by certain Pueblo Indians; they are:
- San Ildefonso, Nambe, Tesuque, Santa Clara and San Juan.
- tewatu (tay-wa-too). “Tewa beans”; pinto beans.
- Tiguex (tee-wesh). Province of prehistoric Indian villages on the
- banks of the Rio Grande between Bernalillo and Albuquerque, a
- distance of about seventeen miles.
- Tiwa (tee-wa). Language spoken by certain groups of Indians; Taos,
- Picuris, Sandia and Isleta.
- Towa (toe-wa). Language spoken by Jemez Indians and by those of Pecos
- before its abandonment in 1837.
- Tshirege (ser-i-gay). “House of the Bird People”; prehistoric pueblo
- northeast of Tyuonyi.
- Tyuonyi (q’own-yee). A word having a signification akin to that of
- treaty or contract; Frijoles Canyon, Hidden Valley.
-
-
- V
- viejo (veeáy-ho). “Old”; old man.
- viga (vee-gah). “Roof beam.”
-
-
- Y
- Yapashi (yap-a-she). “Sacred Enclosure”; name of pueblo ruin south of
- Tyuonyi.
- yucca (yuc-cuh). Plant with long spiked leaves; commonly known as
- Spanish bayonet.
- Yuqueyunque (you-gay-o-wíng-gay). Of obscure etymology; “down at the
- mocking bird place”; province visited by the Spanish in 1540.
-
-
- Z
- Zuñi (zoo-nee). Indian Pueblo of western New Mexico; only survivor of
- the Seven Cities of Cibola.
- Zuñian (zoo-nee-un). Linguistic stock of Zuñi Indians.
-
-
-
-
- INDEX
-
-
- A
- Abbot, Judge A. J., 80
- Acoma, 67
- Agriculture, 55, 74
- Alameda, 67
- Albuquerque, 6
- Archaeological Institute of America, 79
- Articrafts, 72, 73
- Awanyu, 38
-
-
- B
- Bandelier, Adolph F., 1, 79, 80, 81
- Bandelier National Monument, 17
- created, 81
- Beans in Ceremonial Cave, 59
- Bernalillo, 6
- Bigotes, 6
- Biscuit ware, 61, 62
- Black Mesa, 69
- Blood floors, 39
- Bowls, 61
- Buckman, settlement of, 1
- the man, 1
-
-
- C
- Cable-way, 5
- Cachiti, 9
- Cacique, 47, 52
- Canada de Cochiti, 10, 12, 69
- Canyon del Alamo, 14
- Capulin Canyon, 12, 13
- Ceremonial Cave, 39
- loom in, 40
- Chaco Canyon, 19, 25
- Chamuscado, Captain Francisco Sanchez, 8, 9
- Chapman, Kenneth, 1
- Christianity, 6
- Cochiti Pueblo, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 67, 70
- people, 13, 69, 77, 79
- origin, 31
- Community apartment houses, 34, 40, 53
- Corn, 56
- uses, 57, 58
- trading, 58
- Coronado, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 42
- Cotton, 59
- Cuapa, 31
-
-
- D
- Drought, 18, 60, 63, 71
- 1276-1299, 19
- Dwarfs, 12, 30
-
-
- E
- Espejo, Antonio de, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 65
-
-
- F
- Frey, Mrs. Evelyn C., 4
- Frijoles Canyon Lodge, 80
-
-
- G
- Glaze pottery, 28, 61, 62
- Gourds, 59
- Great Period, 42, 47, 48, 51, 53
-
-
- H
- Haatze, 29, 30
- Hanat Cochiti, 69
- Hemes, Province of, 10
- Hewett, Edgar L., 1
-
-
- I
- Isleta Pueblo, 67
-
-
- J
- Jemez River, 9
- mountain range, 10, 11
- Pueblo, 67
-
-
- K
- Keres, 26, 27, 29, 30, 36, 44, 45
- language, 7, 9, 10, 25
- lead Spanish, 11, 14, 15
- legends, 12, 25, 30, 31, 32
- ancient territory, 13, 22
- make treaty, 16
- lands as a Monument, 17
- pottery, 61
- Kidder, A. V., 1
- King Charles, 6
- King of Spain, 66
- Kivas, 46, 48, 49, 50, 51, 53
- in cliffs, 47
- entrances, 48, 51
- legends, 49
- ventilators, 51
- pits, 51
- plastering, 52
- sipapu, 52
- visitors see, 81
- Kotyiti, 69
-
-
- L
- La Baja Hill, 1
- Mesa, 1, 3
- La Cueva Pintada, 13
- Ladders, 34, 35, 43, 46
- Little Colorado River District, 27, 61
- Little Strong People, 12, 15, 16, 30, 31, 32, 43, 45, 48
- Long House, 38, 41, 42, 53
- Los Confiados, 9, 10
- Spanish visit, 11, 12
- Lummis, Charles F., 80
-
-
- M
- Manes, 58
- Mera, H. P., 1
- Mesa Verde, 19, 25, 40
- Metates, 58
- Morley, Sylvanus, G., 1
- Moslem Invasion of Spain, 18
-
-
- N
- National Park Service, 81, 82
- Navaho, 12, 44, 68, 72, 77
- Navawi, 29, 54
- New Mexico, colonization of, 76
- Nisa, Marcos de, 6
- Nusbaum, Jesse, 1
-
-
- O
- Old Man Pankey’s Pasture, 3
- Ollas, 33, 56, 61
- Old trail, 2, 3, 4, 5, 81
- Oñate Don Juan de, 66
- removed, 67
- Otermin, 68
-
-
- P
- Pajarito Plateau, 8, 10, 11, 16, 22, 24, 25, 27, 31, 32, 41, 54,
- 71
- Keres driven out, 12
- first occupation, 20, 21
- pueblo architecture, 29
- abandonment, 66
- Palace of the Governors, 68
- Pecos, 6
- Perage, 66
- Peralta, Don Pedro de, 67
- Pictographs, 38
- Plants, 59, 60, 72
- Pleistocene Period, 11
- Pliocene Period, 11
- Plumed serpent, 38
- Potrero Viejo, 31
- Potsui’i, 29, 54
- Pottery, 33, 56, 60, 61
- trading, 62
- Powhoge, 66
- Pre-Cambrian Rocks, 34
- Pueblo of the Stone Lions, 13, 30
- Pueblo Rebellion, 27, 68
- Puwige, the big community house, 3, 41, 42, 44, 47, 53
- shape, 43
- halfway, 43, 62
- fortified, 45, 46
- kivas, 46
- plaza, 57
- Bandelier’s cave, 79
- stones for ranch house, 80
- visitors, 81
- Pygmies, 15
-
-
- Q
- Quirex, Province of, 7
-
-
- R
- Ramadas, 37
- Ramon Vigil Grant, 76
- Ring Dance, 77
- Rio Chama, 8
- as a boundary, 11
- Rio Grande, 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 13, 15, 22, 25, 31, 32, 34
- description, 7
- as a boundary, 11
- White Rock Canyon, 12
- first occupation, 18, 19
- trade, 27
- as a hunting ground, 55
- expedition in 1598, 66
- churches, 67
- Spanish leave, 68
- expedition in 1693, 68
- Rito de Los Frijoles, 22, 32, 51, 75, 77, 81
- derivation of name, 76
- Roman Catholic Missionaries, 67
-
-
- S
- Sandia Pueblo, 31
- San Felipe Pueblo, 7, 9, 31, 67
- San Gabriel, 67
- Sangre de Cristo Mountains, 20
- San Ildefonso, 43, 66, 67, 70
- legends, 70
- San Juan area, 18
- San Juan Pueblo, 7, 8, 38, 45, 67
- Sankawi, 29, 54
- Santa Ana Pueblo, 7, 9
- Santa Fe, 4, 20
- capital moved, 67
- Santo Domingo Pueblo, 7, 9, 31, 79
- origin, 31
- Seven Cities of Cibola, 6
- Shipapolima, 13
- Sia Pueblo, 7, 9
- Sipapu, 38, 52, 74
- Social and ceremonial organization, 47
- Stone Age, 82
- Stone Lions Shrine, 13, 31, 77
-
-
- T
- Tanos, 31
- Ten Elder Ranch, 3, 80
- Tewa, 7, 16, 25, 26, 27, 30, 36, 38, 43, 45, 68
- dwarfs, 12
- lands as a Monument, 7
- villages, to north, 29, 32, 62, 63
- penetrate Frijoles, 32, 33
- contact Spanish, 39
- villages during Rebellion, 69
- War Gods, 69
- men trudge south, 77
- Threshing floor, 77
- Tiguex, Province of, 6, 7, 9, 10, 42
- Spanish return, 7, 45
- winter of Spanish expedition, 8
- Tiwa, 25, 31
- Tobacco, discovery of, 73
- Towa, 10, 25
- Tshirege, 29, 54
- Turkey pens, 40
- feathers, 60, 72, 73
- Tyuonyi, 14, 15, 23, 26, 34, 35, 37, 40, 44, 45, 48, 51, 53, 74,
- 76
- as a boundary, 16, 81
- meaning, 25
- trade, 27
- earliest home, 28, 30, 32
- caves, 36
- community apartment houses, 41
- secret chambers, 46, 58
- population, 54
- farmers, 55
- game, 55
- weapons, 55
- abandonment, 64
- reoccupation, 72
- final abandonment, 74
-
-
- V
- Vargas, Don Diego de, 68
-
-
- W
- War with France, 76
- Water Canyon, 2, 77
- White Rock Canyon, 11
- Woolen cloth, 72
-
-
- Y
- Yapashi, 13, 29
- Yunqueyunque, Province of, 67
-
-
- Z
- Zuñi, 6, 9, 13,
- Indians pass through Tyuonyi, 77
- Zuñian, 25
-
-
-
-
- PLATES
-
-
- [Illustration:
-
- [Illustration:
-
- [Illustration:
-
- [Illustration:
-
- [Illustration: Ground Plan of Frijoles Canyon. Ruins Area]
-
- [Illustration: Ground Plan of Frijoles Canyon. Ruins Area (_left_)]
-
- [Illustration: Ground Plan of Frijoles Canyon. Ruins Area
- (_center_)]
-
- [Illustration: Ground Plan of Frijoles Canyon. Ruins Area (_right_)]
-
- [Illustration: Northern Wall of Frijoles Canyon]
-
- [Illustration: Northern Wall of Frijoles Canyon (_left_)]
-
- [Illustration: Northern Wall of Frijoles Canyon (_center_)]
-
- [Illustration: Northern Wall of Frijoles Canyon (_right_)]
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
- is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—Corrected a few palpable typos.
-
-—Included a transcription of the text within some images.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
- _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Frijoles: A Hidden Valley in the New
-World, by Jerome William Hendron
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-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FRIJOLES: A HIDDEN VALLEY ***
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