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text-indent: -2.78%; - margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c015 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 2em; } - .c016 { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c017 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; padding-right: 1em; } - .c018 { vertical-align: top; text-align: center; padding-right: 1em; } - .c019 { vertical-align: top; text-align: center; } - .c020 { margin-top: 1em; font-size: 90%; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c021 { font-size: 90%; } - .c022 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; text-indent: -1em; - padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em; } - .c023 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; text-indent: -1em; - padding-left: 1em; } - .c024 { margin-left: 5.56%; margin-right: 2.78%; text-indent: -2.78%; - margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c025 { text-align: center; } - .c026 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; } - .c027 { page-break-before: auto; margin-top: 2em; } - div.tnotes { padding-left:1em;padding-right:1em;background-color:#E3E4FA; - border:1px solid silver; margin:2em 10% 0 10%; } - .covernote { visibility: hidden; display: none; } - div.tnotes p { text-align:left; } - @media handheld { .covernote { visibility: visible; display: block;} } - hr.division {width: 100%; margin: 0 0 1em 0; clear: both; border: thin; - border-style: solid; display: block; } - .ph1 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: xx-large; - margin: .67em auto; } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's Brazil and the river Plate in 1868, by William Hadfield - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Brazil and the river Plate in 1868 - -Author: William Hadfield - -Release Date: September 2, 2016 [EBook #52965] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE IN 1868 *** - - - - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, Donald Cummings, Adrian -Mastronardi and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team -at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='tnotes covernote'> - -<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber's Note:</strong></p> - -<p class='c000'>The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> - -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/illus_front.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>Dr. Gunning's House, overlooking the Valley of Macacos</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - <h1 class='c001'>BRAZIL<br /> <span class='small'>AND</span><br /> THE RIVER PLATE<br /> <span class='xlarge'>IN 1868:</span></h1> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='small'>BY</span></div> - <div><span class='xlarge'>WILLIAM HADFIELD,</span></div> - <div class='c002'>SHOWING THE PROGRESS OF THOSE COUNTRIES SINCE HIS FORMER VISIT IN 1853.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/illus_deco.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='large'>LONDON:</span></div> - <div>BATES, HENDY AND CO., 4, OLD JEWRY, E.C.</div> - <div>1869.</div> - <div class='c003'>ENT. STA. HALL.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div><span class='sc'>DUNLOP & Co., Printers</span>,</div> - <div>King's Head Court, Shoe Lane, E.C.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>CONTENTS.</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='CONTENTS'> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Voyage Out</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The City of Monte Video</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The City of Rio de Janeiro</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_31'>31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The War in Paraguay</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_45'>45</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Province of San Paulo</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The San Paulo Railway</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The City of San Paulo</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>San Paulo to Santos and Rio de Janeiro</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Trip to Juiz de Fora.—The Don Pedro Segundo Railway</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_86'>86</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Rio de Janeiro to the River Plate, Second Trip</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_99'>99</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>City of Buenos Ayres</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_103'>103</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Buenos Ayres to Colonia—Estanzuella</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_107'>107</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Trip on the Central Argentine Railway</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_112'>112</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Western Railway of Buenos Ayres</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_125'>125</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Buenos Ayres—Second Notice</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_131'>131</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Progress of Steam Navigation on La Plata</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_142'>142</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Railways in the River Plate</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_146'>146</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Emigration to Brazil</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_154'>154</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Emigration to the River Plate</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_158'>158</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Railways in Brazil</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_164'>164</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Commerce of Brazil and the River Plate</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_173'>173</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The River Amazon</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_185'>185</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Telegraphic Communications</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_197'>197</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Religious Institutions</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_200'>200</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Affluents of La Plata</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_203'>203</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Republic of Paraguay</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_206'>206</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Brazilian Currency</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_217'>217</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Argentine Finances</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_231'>231</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Port and Harbour of Santos</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_239'>239</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>The Voyage Home</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_245'>245</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='sc'>Appendix of Official and other Documents</span></td> - <td class='c007'><a href='#Page_253'>253</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>ERRATA.<a id='ERRATA'></a></h2> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-b c008'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Page <a href='#p132'>132</a>.—For Club “El Temple” read “Del Parque.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Page <a href='#p167'>167</a>.—Transpose in table words “Revenue” and “Working.”</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Page <a href='#p169'>169</a>.—For “£150,000” read “£15,000.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span> - <h2 class='c005'>PREFACE.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>This work makes no pretentions to literary merit, but, -as its title indicates, is simply a narrative descriptive of -the progress of the countries specially referred to, -which, though England has long maintained intimate -commercial relations with them, are still but very imperfectly -known to the British public. In the Old -World generations follow each other without any very -perceptible alteration being observable in the characteristic -surroundings, but in the New World, as America -is still termed, a few years often effect changes of the -most important and striking description. This is -notably the case as respects Brazil and the River Plate, -the growth of which has been very remarkable.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Since the year 1854, when my former work was -published, a large amount of English capital has been invested -in various enterprises connected with Brazil and -the River Plate, and particularly for the construction -of railways, the formation of banks, and the promotion -of steam navigation on the great Rivers communicating -with the interior. If the results have not, in several -instances, proved wholly satisfactory as regards the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>distribution of dividends, the fact is in a considerable -degree, if not entirely, owing to mismanagement of -some kind or other; and I think there can be no doubt -that a prosperous future yet lies before all the companies -in question. On the other hand, large gains -have been secured, showing that those regions present -a profitable and wide field for the further employment of -our surplus capital.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The commercial tendencies of Brazil and the Platine -States are most liberal, and their policy is the very -opposite of that pursued under the exclusive domination -of Portugal and Spain. The Empire, not long since, -received the approval of all civilised nations for its -decree opening up the waters of the noble Amazon to -free commerce, and the unrestricted navigation of the -upper riverine streams will be one of the chief advantages -the victory of the allies in the present war will -confer upon mankind.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The extent of territory embraced within the limits of -Brazil, and what are commonly called the Platine States, -cannot easily be realised by those who have never travelled -out of Europe; and it is equally difficult to -convey any adequate idea of their wonderful fertility -and productiveness. Nature has blessed them with her -choicest gifts, and, to take the highest rank amongst the -nations, their sole want is increased population; and -this is precisely what overcrowded Europe can very -well spare. I am glad to be able to state that the respective -Governments are fully impressed with the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>necessity of adopting comprehensive and effective -measures with a view to attracting emigrants to their -shores.</p> - -<p class='c000'>My intended movements during my visit were much -interfered with by the cholera in the Plate and the -protracted duration of hostilities in Paraguay, but I -was enabled to satisfy myself of the complete realisation -in 1868 of my most sanguine predictions in 1853.</p> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span></div> -<div class='ph1'> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div>BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE</div> - <div class='c003'>IN</div> - <div class='c003'>1868.</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>THE VOYAGE OUT.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>A beaten track does not present the same novelty -as a fresh one, except in the case of countries in -what is still termed the New World, and which are -again about to be described. It was in 1853 I last -visited Brazil and the River Plate, and published my -observations upon them. An interval of fifteen years -has wrought many changes and produced wonderful -progress there, and if the Southern portion of the -American Continent has not kept pace with the -Northern it may be chiefly ascribed to the continued -great influx of emigrant population to the latter from -all parts of Europe, but consisting chiefly of the Anglo-Saxon -race. From this cause, even the loss of at least a -million of American citizens by the great civil war has -caused no perceptible diminution in the American -census, because it is constantly replenished from Europe. -The African race has, however, come to the surface -in a most unlooked-for manner, their shackles having -been removed by a violent shock, which has, for a -time at least, caused great social disturbance, and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>left the Southern States more or less at the mercy -of the “niggers,” as the blacks are generally termed. -What may be the ultimate result, or how things will -“settle down,” is yet a problem to be solved. Meantime, -slavery in Brazil remains a domestic institution, but it is -doomed to inevitable extinction. The process of emancipation -will be watched with much interest by all who -desire to see the Brazilian Empire rise to the position it -is capable of attaining. The tide of emigration to Brazil, -spite of this disadvantage, has, however, fairly set in, and -the subject will be treated of in its proper place. Happily, -in the River Plate there exists no such hindrance to -the development of free labour, for which it also presents -a boundless field, and it will be the study of the writer -to show how a portion, at all events, of the surplus -population of Europe can be located there, to the great -advantage of those who embrace the opening as well as -of the country itself, whose chief and most urgent want -is labour. The Paraguayan war and the terrible ravages -of the cholera have been a great drawback to internal improvement -in the Argentine Republic, but it is gratifying -to think that the encouraging picture drawn by the writer -on his first visit to the Plate has been more than realised—the -motto of the Platine States should now be “<em>Peace -and Progress</em>.” The “log” of an outward-bound passenger -on board an ocean steamer now possesses but -little interest; still, a record of the changes which have -taken place in the means of transit since my last voyage, -made fifteen years ago, may be worthy of notice, and will -also afford information to those who contemplate a trip to -Brazil or the River Plate. Success does not always attend -even the best organised and most promising enterprises, -but all experience had even then proved that there was -ample scope for the employment of capital in promoting -<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>intercourse by means of steam with those countries that -can only be reached by crossing the ocean. The South -American Company, with which at that time I was -connected, started under unfortunate circumstances. -Ships were high in price, and rates of fuel were exorbitant -by reason of the Crimean War. They lost in addition -two of their steamers in a most unlooked-for manner, -which sadly deranged their operations; but emphatically -the two grave errors committed by the company were, -first, in building more ships than they could raise capital -to pay for; and, secondly, in abandoning the line after -their experience had thus been paid for, and at the very -moment when the traffic was becoming lucrative; for -there can be no question that had they continued to run -their steamers, instead of being seduced by the tempting -terms of charter offered by Government, they would -now have been in existence as a powerful company, -paying good dividends. This was not to be however, -and on the abandonment of the line, the Royal Mail -Company was left without a competitor, and so enabled -to realise large profits. Had this latter company read -rightly the signs of the times, or met the requirements -of <em>commerce</em> by despatching a steamer once a month from -Liverpool, alternately with their regular mail from -Southampton, they would not only have made more -money, but to a considerable extent rendered themselves -independent of Government subsidies. Their monopoly -was exercised injuriously for the interests of the countries -they were trading to, of which the French Emperor -had the sagacity to take advantage, by subsidizing a -company from Bordeaux, which has continued a most -successful career, for it cannot be disputed that French -steam navigation and the development of French commerce -are almost entirely due to his Imperial Majesty's -<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>remarkable prescience. As a natural consequence of -increased facilities the passenger traffic with Brazil and -the River Plate has wonderfully increased, and at times -both lines are inconveniently crowded, the French one -being for some reason preferred by South Americans and -foreigners. Subsequently some unsuccessful attempts -were made to establish other steam lines to Brazil. -What was termed the Brokers' line was started from -Liverpool to the River Plate, but it was not until Messrs. -Lamport and Holt took the business in hand that private -steam navigation was established on a firm basis from -that port, and the fine fleet of the astronomical line now -supersedes to a considerable extent the use of sailing -ships. They have also entered into a contract with the -British Government to despatch a mail steamer on the -20th of every month, the first (the Hipparchus) having -left Liverpool on the 20th August last. Last on the -list comes what is now generally known as “Tait's” line, -on board one of the steamers of which, the City of -Limerick, I am now embarked. They are fine steamers, -with superior accommodation for first-class passengers at -very moderate rates. A line from London, calling at Falmouth, -has long been a favourite project, which Messrs. -Tait have at length carried into effect with every -prospect of success. They have wisely appreciated the -growing requirements of population in Brazil and the -River Plate, and are preparing to convey a number of -third-class passengers by their steamers at a cheap rate. -By confining their operations to Rio de Janeiro and the -River Plate they are enabled to land goods and passengers -at Monte Video and Buenos Ayres under 30 days. The -importance of this line has been greatly enhanced by the -contract entered into with the Belgian Government, -under which the steamers are to call at Antwerp on their -<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>way out and home, the latter after landing passengers at -Falmouth.<a id='r1' /><a href='#f1' class='c010'><sup>[1]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c000'>This brief reference to the progress of steam navigation -to Brazil and the River Plate will show the growth of -passenger traffic during the last few years, and sufficiently -indicate the great increase of commerce with these countries, -not only as regards Great Britain, but also as -respects continental ports, which will be more clearly -illustrated in later portions of this volume; meantime, as -an index to passenger traffic, it is my intention to obtain -statistics from the different companies, and to present -them in a table which will speak for itself. I may further -remark that a steam company has been formed to run from -Marseilles to the River Plate, and another between the -United States and Brazil, the latter with a subsidy from -these two Governments, which cannot fail to be mutually -advantageous, and to promote the great object of emigration. -Altogether a very large amount of capital is -employed in linking this portion of the old world and -the new by means of steam navigation. That it will -further increase no one can doubt, particularly should -the tide of emigration from Europe set in freely towards -those countries, as I firmly believe will soon be the case.</p> - -<p class='c000'>And now we are moving along towards St. Vincent,—expecting -to pass the island of Madeira to-morrow -(24th December), five days out from Falmouth, almost -entirely under steam, a breeze from the north-west, -which favoured us for 24 hours after leaving Falmouth, -having gradually headed us. The speed of the vessel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>under steam only is 9 to 10 knots, but if we catch a -good trade wind our progress southward ought to be -very rapid. The City of Limerick is an excellent sea -boat and all is very comfortable on board. My order of -proceeding this time will still be something in the -narrative form, as more adapted to the task I have set -myself of recording the progress made, and the changes -that have taken place since my last short visit to South -America in 1853.</p> - -<p class='c000'><em>December 24th.</em>—Passed close to the westward of -Madeira, the island being enveloped in dense masses of -black clouds, which poured forth their liquid streams, -forming some dozen cascades of all sizes, one being conspicuous, -reaching from the very top of the mountain -down to the sea. No one would imagine the beauty -and fertility of this island to judge from its western -aspect, so different from the south-eastern side, which is -well cultivated, and presents very pleasing views as you -approach in that direction the Bay of Funchal. Madeira -has changed very little I believe of late years, nor is it -likely to do so with absurd quarantine laws in existence, -which prevent vessels calling, and limits the number of -visitors. The cultivation of sugar cane succeeded that -of the vine, after the destruction of the latter, -about the time of my former visit to the island, but to -the detriment of its sanatory condition, as the refuse -canes were allowed to rot, and impregnated the atmosphere -offensively; otherwise, in its former glory of vines -and fig trees, the island was a little garden of Hesperides. -Now that real Madeira wine has become a scarce commodity -connoisseurs praise it extensively, and it is to be -hoped a few years will enable the island again to supply a -genuine article instead of the spurious trash commonly -sold under the name of Madeira wine. The real thing is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>only to be found in choice old cellars, and no doubt a -glass of it is a very great treat.</p> - -<p class='c000'><em>Christmas Day, 1867.</em>—Spent this day on the “deep -blue sea,” with a steady north-east trade blowing, which -carries us swiftly along, and, if all goes well, we shall -reach St. Vincent on Saturday by daylight, so as to get -into the harbour and coal during the night. Nine days -from Falmouth will be a very good passage. The -weather has become warm, with bright sunny days and -starlight nights, the days lengthening as we proceed -southward. Certainly the change from an English -winter is very sensibly felt, and must exercise a beneficial -influence on the human frame. All traces of sea -sickness have vanished from those of the passengers who -were afflicted with it during the first few days, and they -are now on deck, basking in the sunshine, but they will -soon require the protection of awnings, as we shall then -be within the tropics. Different opinions exist as to the -comparative comfort of the paddle-wheel and screw. I -prefer the latter, irrespective of its economy, as advantage -can be taken of every favouring breeze, and except -with the wind right aft, a screw steamer is steadier than -a paddle wheel one. Many object to the continual thud -of the screw and to the tremulous motion of the ship, -but the latter is less felt in screw steamers than formerly, -from the application of improved machinery and the -placing of the screw well down in the water. On the -other hand, the continual plunging of paddle wheels is -tiresome, and they keep up a certain amount of spray -which is not experienced with the screw. It is quite -true that a ship is a thing “you never can be quiet in,” -whether propelled merely by sails, by paddle, or by -screw—as everyone knows who has had experience, but -this does not prevent sleep, or indulgence at times in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>that <i><span lang="it" xml:lang="it">dolce far niente</span></i> which is supposed to belong only to -dwellers on land, under the soothing influence of an -Italian sky. After all, how much we are indebted to -steam, not only for comfort, but for our knowledge of -distant countries. I remember several voyages made to -Brazil in my early days, when 20 to 30 days were often -taken to accomplish what we did yesterday in five days,—namely, -passing the island of Madeira to gain the north-east -trades.</p> - -<p class='c000'><em>St. Vincent.</em>—Saturday evening, the 28th December, -brought us safely into Porto Grande, the great coaling -harbour for steamers bound to the South Atlantic, -and where as many as twenty steamers a month are -now coaled from the coaling establishment of Mr. -Miller (also her Majesty's Consul for the Cape Verde -Islands), who has at great expense built a high and low -level pier, with large coal stores, a number of iron -lighters and screw tugs which are employed to tow the -coal barges alongside the steamers; in fact, it is -impossible for anything to be more complete than the -coaling arrangements here, which admit of sending off -about 700 tons a day. Three vessels had to be coaled -during Sunday, and two got away by night—ourselves, -and a French steamer, bound from Marseilles to Brazil -and the River Plate, with about 550 emigrants on -board, chiefly for the River. We left, to complete -her coaling the next day, the splendid new steamer the -Sumatra, Captain Brown, belonging to the Pacific and -Oriental Company, bound out to India, to take up her -station between Bombay and Suez; she is 2,500 tons, -and 500 horse power, both built by Denny Brothers, -of Dumbarton. She has accommodation of the most -luxurious kind for 150 first-class passengers, and is -equipped in a most perfect manner. St. Vincent is her -<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>only coaling port between England and Bombay, and -this was merely a matter of precaution, as she had on -board sufficient to take her to India. A Russian screw -corvette with a number of training cadets on board was -also at anchor in the Bay when we arrived, but she sailed -away southward about noon on Sunday. With the increasing -demand for steam traffic to the southern hemisphere, -the importance of Porto Grande as a coaling -station cannot be overrated. We expected to have picked -up some news from Brazil and the River Plate, but unfortunately -the Royal Mail Company's steamer Seine -(overdue a week) had not arrived, and various surmises -were raised as to the cause of this unusual delay, which -we shall only learn later on. The Brazil and River -Plate Service, both by the above company and the -French Messageries Imperiales, has been for many -years performed with great regularity. Owing to the -many steamers calling at St. Vincent, a good supply of -fresh meat, fruit, eggs, &c., can now be obtained there, -brought from the neighbouring islands, as St. Vincent itself -continues as barren of verdure as ever. The town has -extended itself somewhat, several new public buildings -having been erected, including a Custom House, and -some pretty cottages on the hill overlooking the -harbour, for the use of Mr. Miller's numerous establishments. -For the information of such of my readers as -may not be conversant with the Cape Verde Islands, -I reprint my remarks upon them contained in my -former work already alluded to, as I shall also continue -to do in other places, for a similar reason, besides the -additional one of diffusing information as to countries -with which we are so intimately linked by commercial -and political ties. A submarine cable, connecting these -Islands with Madeira and Lisbon, would be very useful, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>and will most probably come in time, as a link in the -chain of our communications with South America and -the coast of Africa. Its existence would shorten the time -of receiving and transmitting news between England -and Brazil very considerably, and the evils arising from -such an event as the detention or loss of the Seine be -greatly mitigated:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The Cape Verds consist of seven principal islands, and were -tolerably populous, but of late years have been subjected to a continuous -emigration to South America and the West Indies, where, -like the hardy mountaineers from Madeira, they are found most -useful in tilling the soil, and in other laborious occupations; thus -demonstrating the fallacy of the old notion, that laziness is the -predominant element in the Spanish and Portuguese idiosyncrasy. -What appears to be a present disadvantage, in regard to this human -flight from the Verds, may prove beneficial hereafter, when the -Ilheos (as they are called) return to their homes, possessed of a little -money wherewith to improve their social and moral condition. The -islands produce wine, barilla, large quantities of orchilla weed, and -cochineal, the cultivation of which is rapidly forming a more and -more considerable item of export. Steam navigation will ere long -bring them into much closer commercial contact with the world, and -enhance the appreciation of their products and natural advantage. -The climate is fine, though subject to occasional high temperature -and frequent droughts. Despite the name Verds, suggestive of -Arcadian animation, nothing can be more desolate than the appearance -of the islands, as approached from the sea; bold, high rocks, -against which the surge breaks violently, with mountains towering -in the clouds, are general characteristics, to which those of the -island of St. Vincent offer no exception. On our arrival the weather -was thick, with drizzling rain, as we made Porto Grande; and only -cleared up in time to enable us to see Bird Island, a most remarkable -sugar-loaf rock, standing right in the entrance of the bay, after -passing which we reached the anchorage ground in a few minutes. -A more convenient little harbour can hardly be imagined, being -nearly surrounded with hills (or mountains as they may be called), -which protect it from all winds save the westward, where Bird Island -stands as a huge beacon, most admirably adapted for a lighthouse, -and on which it is to be hoped one will soon be placed. There is -deep water close to the shore on most sides of the bay, that where the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>town is built being the shallowest; and here some wooden jetties are -run out, having very extensive coal and patent fuel <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">depôts</span></i> close at hand -where these combustibles are put into iron lighters, and sent off to the -vessels. So beautifully clear is the water in the bay that you can -see the bottom at a depth of from twenty to thirty feet, literally -alive with fish of all kinds, but for which the people seem to care -very little, either for home consumption or export, though there is -no doubt that, in the latter direction, a large business might be done -with profitable results.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Porto Grande must become a most important coaling station, -situated as it is midway between Europe and South America, and -close to the African coast. Several important steam companies have -already adopted it, viz., the Royal Mail (Brazil), the General Screw, -the Australian, as also the South American, and General Steam -Navigation Company, whilst occasional steamers are, likewise, glad -to touch at it. At the period at which I am writing, the Great -Britain was the last that coaled here, on her way to Australia. In -order to meet this increased demand, a proportionate degree of -activity and exertion is observable onshore; and a large number of iron -lighters, carrying from fifteen to forty tons each, are now in constant -requisition, loaded, and ready to be taken alongside the steamers the -instant they cast anchor. Unfortunately there is a very poor supply -of water, the want of it having been the occasion of frequent emigration -in the history of the islands; but it is understood to be attainable -at a slight expense; and a small outlay conjointly made by the -steam companies might not only procure a plentiful provision of this -all-necessary element, but also other conveniences, essential to the -comfort of passengers. There is no doubt that, as the place progresses, -supplies of meat, fruit, and vegetables will be forwarded -thither from the neighbouring islands, which are so productive that -there is a considerable export of corn; and the cattle are numerous. -Until lately fowls were only a penny a piece; and turtles abound. -Hitherto there has been no regular marketable demand for such -things; but one, and a large one too, is henceforth established, from -the causes assigned, and will doubtless be regularly and economically -supplied. The labourers here are chiefly free blacks and Kroomen, -from the coast of Africa, most of whom speak English, and chatter -away at a great rate, as they work in gangs, with a kind of boatswain -over them, who uses a whistle to direct their toil—the -movements of all the race of Ham to the days of Uncle Tom, -being seemingly susceptible of regulation to musical noise of -some sort or other; whether the “concord of sweet sounds,” or -<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>what would appear to be such to more refined ears, does not greatly -matter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>But for want of vegetation in its neighbourhood, a more picturesque -little bay than Porto Grande can hardly be conceived. Towering -a short distance above the town, is a kind of table mountain, -some 2,500 feet high; and at the opposite side, forming the south-west -entrance, is another very lofty one, remarkable as representing -the colossal profile of a man lying on his back, <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la</span></i> Prometheus. -He has his visage towards heaven, wherein there are generally -soaring vultures enough to devour him up were he a trifle less tender -than volcanic granite. The features are perfect, even to the eyebrows; -and a very handsome profile it makes, though it does not -appear that any tropical Æschylus has yet converted the material to -the humblest legendary, much less epic, purpose. On the shore -ground, forming the right side of the bay, looking towards the town, -is a neat little monument, erected to the lamented lady of Colonel -Cole, who died here on her way home from India. The spot where -she lies is, from its quietude and seclusion, most meet for such a -resting-place, there being a small, conical hill behind, with a cottage -or two near, and a sprinkling of vegetation on the low ground -between, serving to “keep her memory green” in the mind of many -an ocean voyager in his halt at this half-way house between the -younger and the elder world.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This little town was thrown back sadly by the epidemic which -afflicted it in 1850 and decimated the population. During its continuance -Mr. Miller, one of the few English residents, did so much -in assisting the inhabitants as to elicit from the late Queen of -Portugal the honour of a knighthood, in one of the first orders in her -dominions. It requires no small degree of patience and philanthropy -to aid the development of a place like this, labouring, as it does, -under such great natural difficulties, and where everything has to be -brought from a distance, there not being a tree or a blade of grass to -be seen—nothing but dry, arid sand, or a burnt-up kind of soil. -Undoubtedly, the heat is very great at times; and there are about -three months of blowing, rainy weather, which is the only period -when vessels might be subjected to inconvenience whilst coaling, as -the southerly winds drive up a good deal of sea into the bay. There -is an English Consul resident here, Mr. Rendall, who has done much -to assist in bringing these islands into notice, and into comparative -civilization; and, by so doing, has many times over reimbursed this -country in the cost of his stipend of £400 a year, saying nothing of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>the services he has performed to shipping, in the ordinary discharge -of his duties.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cape Verds are a very numerous family of islands, called after a -cape on the African coast (originally named Cabo Verde, or Green -Cape, by the Portuguese), to which they lie contiguous, though at a -considerable distance from each other in some cases. All are of -volcanic formation—one, that of Fogo, or Fuego, once very -celebrated as being visible, especially in the night time, at an -immense distance at sea. The islands generally do not possess any -very attractive points, being unlike Madeira and the Canaries in this -respect, as well as in extent of population, that of the latter being -four or five times more numerous than the others—say about -200,000 in one, 40,000 in the other case, though some statements -make the inhabitants of the Verds considerably more. The islands -are occasionally subject to shocks of earthquakes; and there was -rather a strong one at Porto Grande the night before we left, -supposed on board our vessel to be thunder, from the noise it made, -though we were not aware until next day that a shock had been felt -on shore. The chief product is salt, a valuable article for vessels -trading to South America, though it is here manufactured by the -somewhat primitive process of letting the sea-water into the lowlands, -where the sun evaporates it. Though Porto Grande, in St. -Vincent, is the great place for shipping, and as such almost the only -place of interest for passengers in transit, Ribera Grande, in St. -Jago, the principal island, and most southerly of the group, is the -chief town, though it is at Porto Playa (often touched at by ships on -the Indian voyage) that the Governor General resides, particularly -in the dry season. The island second in importance, in point of size, -is St. Nicholas, where are some small manufactories, in the shape of -cotton-stuffs, leather, stockings, and other matters. The orchilla -weed, however, is the great object of governmental interest, and its -monopoly is said to yield some £60,000 per annum; the same wise -policy that grasps at that interdicting the manufacture of wine, -though grapes grow in profusion, and are of excellent quality for the -production of a very acceptable beverage.</p> - -<p class='c000'><em>December 31st, 1867.</em>—The last day of the old year is -an event that calls for reflection and particularly at sea, -when the mind is generally more open than elsewhere -to receive impressions, and free to take into review the -past—to enquire how the time has been spent. Few of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>us, probably, can answer this question satisfactorily, -but at all events it is desirable to make the enquiry. -There is no postman's knock at the door, no friends to -see, nor any to seek us out. Our little world is the ship -on which we are sailing, and those within it, the greater -part of whom have been utter strangers to each other -previous to embarkation. Selfishness under such circumstances -finds its level, or is confined within very -narrow bounds, and a common instinct draws every one -together, until at the end of the voyage, when those -who are only passengers part, and go each on his several -mission, few in all likelihood ever to meet again in their -various walks in life. Most leave friends behind, whom -they look forward to rejoining, or they have friends to -welcome them in the new countries to which they are -speeding their way. The great ocean brings strikingly -home to us the wondrous works of the Almighty Ruler -of the Universe, and the littleness of man himself. -Again, we are apt to forget the immensity of the ocean, -which, as compared with the land, is computed at 145¾ -million of statute miles against 51 million square statute -miles of land, or a total of both of 196¾ millions. A little -incident occurred this morning in our meeting the screw -steamer Uruguay (which signalised twenty days out -from the River Plate), one of the Liverpool line of -steamers, making her way to St. Vincent to coal, and -she will, no doubt, report us at home. Time did not -afford opportunity for exchanging news, which would -have been very acceptable on both sides. We also -passed an American ship steering northward, being now -in the track of vessels homeward bound, 10° 30´ north -latitude and 26° 30´ east longitude; a fine steady -breeze driving us, with the aid of the screw, fully -eleven knots an hour.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span><em>January 4th, 1868.</em>—We have crossed the line, gone -through the variables, and are in the south-east trades. -The air is cool and pleasant, and the ship making nearly -twelve miles an hour, with a smooth sea and little -motion—the perfection of sailing. There is a freshness -about the Southern hemisphere which I have always -enjoyed. Steady breezes and a clear sky, with light -fleecy clouds. We passed several vessels yesterday -standing to the northward, amongst them a fine Yankee -screw corvette, which hoisted her number, but she was -not in our signal book. Less than another week of this -weather will take us into Rio de Janeiro, in somewhat -over 20 days, which will be a very good passage, and -we have certainly been very much favoured in having -fair, moderate weather, with scarcely any rain, and no -squalls. The great advantage of steam over sailing ships -is not only much quicker passages, but running out of -calms or variable winds, and making a straight course to -the point of destination.</p> - -<p class='c000'><em>January 10th, 1868.</em>—We made Cape Frio light, off -Rio de Janeiro, about midnight, and came into harbour -early this morning, twenty-one and a half days from -Falmouth. After the usual formalities in connection -with the health and custom-house departments, we -steamed up to the coal island, and were soon moored -alongside, ready for coaling and discharging cargo. -There were fewer ships in the bay than I ever remember -to have seen. Her Majesty's store-ship Egmont was -lying there, and one or two other vessels of war. A -splendid Spanish frigate, the Blanca, which had participated -in the bombardment of Valparaiso, steamed out of -harbour as we came in, but whither bound no one could -say. On going on shore I found the landing place not -much improved, and the custom-house formalities had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>increased in rigour, extending even to a charge on the -small quantity of luggage required for a change whilst -on shore. It is a mistake in an enlightened country -like Brazil to subject passengers to such absurd regulations, -which can bring in very little revenue and get -the country a bad name. In other respects little or no -restriction is experienced in going to or from the ship, -either day or night. We found the news from the -seat of war unsatisfactory as regards its progress, and, -what was worse, we learned that the cholera was -raging at Buenos Ayres, vessels from the River Plate -being placed in quarantine on arrival at Rio; but the -latter city was healthy, notwithstanding the great heat -which, during the two days we remained in harbour, was -most intense, the thermometer in the shade being over -90°. Working all night enabled the steamer to be ready -to start again on Sunday morning, the 12th January, -when we again sailed from Rio on our way to the River.</p> - -<hr class='c012' /> - -<div class='footnote' id='f1'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. </span>Since writing the above, Messrs. Tait have parted with their exclusive -interest in the line to a limited company, with a very influential board of -direction, and of which Mr. Peter Tait is himself the chairman. No doubt -this will lead to a yet more vigorous prosecution of an enterprise which has -already and thus early secured so large a share of commercial patronage and -support.</p> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Seeing the accounts at Rio were not encouraging, I was -advised to delay my trip southward, but as the River -Plate was my ultimate destination, and my business pressing, -I was desirous to reach Buenos Ayres as quickly as -possible, taking Rio Janeiro on my return. So I continued -on board the steamer, which left Rio on Sunday -morning, the 12th January, 1868, and we came to -anchor in Monte Video harbour at 1 p.m. on the 16th—a -very good passage of four days and a few hours. -The weather had been hot during the passage, giving -us a foretaste of what we might look for here. The -health inspector did not come off to us for three hours, -a very annoying delay after the captain of a steamer has -done his best to get quickly to his port, and to whom, -as well as to his owners, hours are of consequence; but -not so to officials in these countries. I believe I surmised -correctly that the health officer was at dinner -when we arrived, that he would take his siesta, and then -come to look after us. As it was then getting past -business hours, I preferred remaining cool and quiet on -board the ship, but several of our passengers went on -shore, and passed the night there, as it is difficult to get -off after dark. The budget of news we received from -the agents, who came on board after the health visit, -made me wish I had taken the wise advice of Rio -<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>friends. The cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres and -throughout the Argentine Republic, and appeared to be -bad enough at Monte Video, in addition to which a -revolution had broken out at Santa Fé against the -Government, the rebels having actually got possession -of Rosario, as well as some portion of the railway, whose -metals they had partly torn up at one of the bridges, -throwing them into the river below. It is difficult to -account for this kind of wanton mischief, unless it was -to show their contempt for civilized means of transit, for -having reached Rosario, their policy should have been -to keep the line open as a means of retreat in case of need, -and then to have taken up the rails to impede troops -who might be following them. I found Mr. and Mrs. Wheelwright -at the Oriental Hotel, Monte Video, a new and -handsome building erected since my last visit, and worthy -any city in Europe, but unfortunately several of the -inmates died of cholera there and it was afterwards -deserted. The Oriental was full when we arrived, but -we found comfortable quarters at the Gran Hotel -Americano, also a large and handsome edifice lately -built, nor can anything more strongly mark the advance -of Monte Video than these two hotels in addition to -those previously existing. The impressions conveyed -in my former narrative as to the development of Monte -Video were favourable, but I hardly expected to see the -place grown half as large again since that time, which -certainly is the case. Building of late years has taken -extraordinary proportions here, and the price paid for -choice spots in the city is something fabulous. Then -again the streets have been all paved and flagged—roughly -enough it must be confessed, but still they -appear to answer the purpose for the peculiar description -of traffic over them, and are a great improvement -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>upon the sand and mud which existed before. During -the few days I remained at Monte Video, everything -was in a very miserable state, the mortality increasing -and the telegrams from Buenos Ayres quite awful. I -therefore resolved to return to Rio Janeiro, and wait a -more favourable moment for prosecuting my mission. -The heat was intense, and the minds of people so preoccupied -with the pestilence as to render it impossible -to follow the object of my mission with any chance of -success. The City of Limerick came up from Buenos -Ayres on the morning of the 24th of January, and was -released from quarantine in the afternoon, when Captain -Peters came on shore, and his report confirmed my -previous views as to returning to Rio; so at 5 p.m. I -went on board with him. We got under weigh at sunset, -with a fresh breeze, and, passing Flores light, were -off Maldonado light about 3 p.m.—a nasty navigation, -with the island of Lobos dangerously near, on which -there ought also to be a light. Daylight took us to the -open sea, and four and a half days' steaming brought us -again into Rio harbour on the morning of Wednesday, -the 5th of February, when we were put to quarantine -in what is called Three Fathom Bay, where we remained -until the third morning, when we were released and -steamed to the coal wharf.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c000'>Precisely three months after my first arrival in Rio, -I left it again to return to the River Plate, whence the -pestilence had departed and things resumed more or -less their usual appearance. Monte Video had, however, -been the scene of a dreadful tragedy—the murder -of General Flores in open day—and the subsequent -terrible retribution which followed that catastrophe. A -gloom hung over the country, heightened by the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>impending bank crisis, and it seemed as if the spirit of -evil had taken possession of the place. Whatever may -have been the faults or errors of General Flores, he -deserved a better fate at the hands of his countrymen. -In forcing himself into power he only followed in the -footsteps of others who had resorted to this unconstitutional -mode of proceeding. During his dictatorship -the country was perfectly tranquil and highly prosperous, -nor was a single life sacrificed by him, although -he knew he had many secret enemies. His personal -courage was undoubted and evinced in many a bloody -encounter in Paraguay, where he appeared to wear a -charmed life, and had he been at all prepared the -assassins might have found the old man more than -a match for them. Altogether, this sad event has -created a feeling in Monte Video which it will take -long to recover from, nor is any confidence felt in the -ability of the present rulers to overcome the difficulties -of their position. It is a great pity so fine a -country and so fair a city should be sacrificed to -objects of mere personal ambition, and be the sport of -every discontented chief or partisan who chooses to set -himself in array against the Government; but unfortunately -this is too much the case, nor do the people -themselves rise to put down such a state of anarchy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In alluding to the new buildings erected at Monte -Video I omitted the Bolsa or Exchange, which is -quite an ornament to the city, with its light, highly -ornamented <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">façade</span>. The interior is of a quadrilateral -form, providing a spacious hall where the business of -the place is carried on, with brokers' offices on the -ground floor, the upper storey being devoted to a -tribunal of commerce and other public purposes. The -cost of the building is stated at about 160,000 hard -<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>dollars, or £32,000 sterling, an instance of public spirit -hardly to be found elsewhere in South America.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The only thing wanting to Monte Video is business, -in which respect the contrast with Buenos Ayres is -very much in favour of the latter. Nevertheless, the -banks have gone into considerable extravagance in the -way of architecture, the Italian Bank being conspicuous -by a superfluity of marble. Indeed, the facility for -issuing notes has evidently led to expenditure in -“bricks and mortar” to an extent that must have -greatly embarrassed the managers of these institutions -when called upon to meet their paper in gold.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As to the cause of the money crisis there cannot be -two opinions. In the first place, Government was -wrong in allowing private issues of notes, and in the -second place, in interfering when it came to a question -of the banks meeting their notes in gold. A “forced -currency,” as it was then called, was sure to lead to -a depreciation in the value of the paper and only -postponed the evil day. It was a curious sight to see -a guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets on duty round -the doors of the Italian Bank, and a crowd of people -waiting outside to receive specie payment of their -notes. This process had already shut up several of -the banks, and there was little hope of saving the -Italian Bank, although great efforts were being made -by the mercantile body to do so, as from the large -number of Italian tradesmen doing business with the -bank serious results might attend the closing of its -doors. The wisest course would have been for all the -banks to have followed in the wake of Mauá and Co. -and closed their doors when they found themselves -unable to meet the pressure for gold. This would -have brought about some remedial action on the part of -Government with a view to self-preservation.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>Amongst other public improvements at Monte Video -is a large market, a tramway for a few miles out of the -city, and the commencement of a railway intended -eventually to reach Durazno, but at present only a few -miles can be completed, owing to the want of capital. -Unfortunately, the Government is not in a position to -assist any enterprise of this kind, spite of the large -amount of Brazilian gold that has been poured into the -place during the war. Altogether, Monte Video has an -ordeal to go through that will require time and patience -on the part of those who may have to conduct its -affairs.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Bay presents its usual animated appearance as -regards the collection of ships and steamers, and a -large sprinkling of foreign men-of-war, whose services -have been much called into requisition of late, in order -to protect foreign property; but in other respects there -is a total absence of vitality or of actual business.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>It cannot be said in this case, as in most others, that</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>“'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view;”—</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>for the nearer you approach this far-famed city, the more -sensible are you to the beauties it unfolds. Strangers -are always struck with the singularly picturesque appearance -of the land approaching Rio de Janeiro, but once -fairly in the bay they are bewildered at its great extent, -surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains of every -possible form, shape, and size, most of them clothed in -luxuriant verdure to the summit. No picture or representation -I have seen of the Bay of Rio does justice to -the splendid panorama its scenery presents. Even those -who have often approached it from the sea, so far from -being tired of gazing, not only recognise old familiar -points, but discover some new feature in the fairy-like -landscape that had before escaped their notice. It varies -very much according to the light and shade,—sunrise, -noonday, and sunset each possessing peculiar marks of -delighting beauty. In my former description of Rio -occurs the following passage:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The city of Rio Janeiro extends some three miles along the south-west -side of the bay, and being much intersected by hills, it is difficult -to get a good view of the whole range, unless from the top of one -of the mountains near the city, such as the celebrated “Corcovado,” -which stands out like a pulpit on the plain below, and is some 2,500 -feet perpendicular. The view from this pulpit on a clear day is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>superb, and I should almost say unequalled in the world: the city, -with its numerous divisions and suburbs below you—the bay, -extending as far as the eye can reach, until lost in the plain below -the Organ Mountain—the sea, studded with numerous picturesque -islands, with vessels looking like white specks upon it, and seen to a -great distance—all together form a most enchanting picture, and -amply repay the toil of an ascent. The mountain is of granite rock, -like all others in this country, but thickly wooded almost to the -summit, and you come out quite suddenly on the bare point before -alluded to, so much resembling a pulpit. In consequence of the -tortuous formation of the streets, constructed round the base of the -hills, it is difficult to get more than a bird's-eye view of the city, on -ground made by encroachment on the sea; consequently, the streets -are low, without drainage, and in several of the back ones the water -collects and stagnates, to the great detriment of health and comfort. -Rio itself is a bad copy of Lisbon—streets at right angles, a large -square facing the sea, and the suburbs extending up the hills which -everywhere meet your eye. In Lisbon the streets are tolerably wide, -but here they have built them so miserably narrow, that scarcely -even one carriage can pass through, much less pass each other; and -it is evident that such vehicles were never contemplated in the -original formation of these streets. The only way of getting over -the difficulty is for carriages coming into the city to take one line -of streets, and those leaving it another, which they do, excluding -omnibuses altogether from the principal thoroughfares. Improvements -in this way were what I found most backward; indeed there -was a marked falling-off in such respect since I was last here, and -there seems a great want of municipal government.<a id='r2' /><a href='#f2' class='c010'><sup>[2]</sup></a> In many -<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>places the pavement is execrable, and generally very bad, the difficulty -having been probably increased by laying down mains for -water and gas, the latter now in process of execution, and also to -heavy rains having washed away many parts of the road, and otherwise -caused much damage. Once this troublesome job is got -through, it is to be hoped that some effective measures will be taken -to put the streets and branch roads in order; otherwise they will -soon be rendered impassable. Coach and coach-spring making -must be thriving trades here, especially with the immense increase -that has taken place in the number of carriages and omnibuses; and -it is really wonderful how they stand the continual shocks they have -to endure.<a id='r3' /><a href='#f3' class='c010'><sup>[3]</sup></a> Government seems at last alive to the absolute necessity -of doing something to improve the sanitary condition of the city, -and also its internal organization, as they have lately got out some -good practical English engineers, who I have no doubt will suggest -an effective mode of dealing with present difficulties. If they do -not adopt decisive measures the rate of mortality may be expected -to augment fearfully in a dense population of 300,000 to 400,000 -inhabitants, huddled together in some 15,000 houses, surrounded -by impurities of every kind, not the least being the stagnant water -<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>in the streets. No exact census has ever been taken of the population -of Rio Janeiro, which is generally believed to be between the -two figures above given. There is a migratory population, but the -accumulation of humanity of every race and colour, contained in -some of the large dwelling-houses, is something extraordinary. As -before observed, nature has done much for this country, and if the -natural facilities of Rio Janeiro were properly availed of, and local -improvements carried out with energy and spirit, it might be rendered -one of the finest and most luxuriant places within the tropics.<a id='r4' /><a href='#f4' class='c010'><sup>[4]</sup></a> -The opportunity is now open to them; the Government possess -ample means, and it is just a question whether measures of progress -are to be effectively achieved, or the city to be abandoned to its fate. -The great evil attending all improvement in Brazil is an undue -appreciation of native capability and a disparagement or mistrust of -those whose practical experience would enable them to grapple with -the difficulties that surround them—a kind of little jealousy or distrust -that prevents their availing themselves of opportunities thrown -in their way to carry out undertakings necessary to the well-being of -the country: nor can they understand the principle on which such -things are regulated in England, still less the magnitude of -operations carried on there and in many other parts of Europe. Yet -the time seems to be coming when these principles will be better -understood here, and when the application of English capital -towards the improvement of the country may be safely and legitimately -brought to bear.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I quote this in order to point out the increase of -population and improvements which have been carried -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>out in the city since it was written, and amongst which -may be enumerated:—</p> - -<p class='c014'>The paving of streets, drainage works, &c.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Lighting the city with gas.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Increased number of omnibuses, private carriages, and conveyances of all kinds.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Public gardens and ornamental squares.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Railways and tramways.</p> - -<p class='c000'>First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is -difficult to arrive at correct figures in the absence of a -census, but according to the municipal authorities, the -population of Rio and the suburbs (which comprise a -circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If building -be any criterion, the increase of population must be -very considerable. Since the period to which I allude, -the city has extended itself in every possible direction, -for without actually climbing the mountains there is a -limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, -and many of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style -of architecture, very suitable to the climate, especially -in the suburbs. The number of shops has largely -increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. -Some public markets have been built, such as the -Gloria, Harmonia, &c. Property has also greatly -risen in value, and fabulous prices have been paid for -land in the city favourably situated. The paving of -the streets has also been carried out most efficiently. -All the leading thoroughfares in and out of the city are -now well paved, and in this respect the road from the -Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare advantageously -with any in Europe, that portion passing -through the Cattete being a perfect specimen of good -paving. As to the drainage works, they speak for -themselves to those who recollect what Rio was twenty -<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>years back, and the names of Brassey and Gotto will -long be remembered as public benefactors in this part -of the world. I had not time to examine these great -works in detail, but shall avail of an opportunity on my -return to do so. Gas has been most successfully introduced, -both as regards quantity, quality, and usefulness, -and it must have been an enormous saving of trouble -and expense in a country where so many lights are -required, and which was formerly dependent on oil -lamps and candles. Not only is the city well lighted, -but every suburb, miles in extent, thereby greatly -adding to comfort and security. Under these circumstances -it will hardly be a matter of surprise that the -gas company pays a very good dividend. It has rather -a curious effect on some of the country roads to see -gas lamps peeping out from the thick foliage of tropical -plants, as if in competition with the fire-flies dancing -about.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carriages, and -Tilburys. The former are plain enough in appearance, -but are drawn by four mules at a good speed. The -carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are -generally very superior in quality, with a couple of -mules or horses, and the Tilbury is a kind of cab with -cover, to hold one person with the driver. The fares, -considering the distances traversed, are on the whole -moderate, although charges in this respect are complained -of. The Public Gardens have been very much -improved since I was last here, and under the shade of -the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty -of the scenery presented by the surrounding hills, and -the view of the bay in front, the busy city shutout, and -everything in quiet repose save the rumble of carriages -passing along the streets. Another public garden has -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>been established in the square called Praça da Constituiçao, -where there is a fine statue of the first Emperor -Dom Pedro proclaiming the independence of the -Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de -Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a -similar purpose, and would form probably the most -extensive area of this kind in the world, affording shade -and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of -citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the -public fountains, it is occupied by laundresses, and in -certain spots rubbish is thrown, but other parts are -being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War -Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, -the Museum and the new Mint, the latter one of the finest -buildings in Rio. The municipal taxes are few, and it is -not easy to find a surplus to be employed in ornamental -works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my -notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at present -my sojourn in the Empire is limited to a couple of -days in the capital.</p> - -<hr class='c013' /> - -<p class='c000'>The terrible ravages of the cholera in the River -Plate brought me back to Rio de Janeiro sooner than I -had contemplated, as there was nothing whatever to be -done down there under such circumstances. At one -period both town and country places were threatened -with absolute decimation, and the daily tales of horror -exceeded almost anything on record. In many cases, -when no one could be found to bury the dead inside -ranchos, or cottages, they were set fire to as the only -way of disposing of the bodies therein. In the Province -of Buenos Ayres alone the loss of life is computed at -25,000, and other provinces suffered almost in an equal -ratio, so that the actual loss of life and property in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>Argentine Republic must have been something enormous. -In the Banda Oriental the losses were severe, and at -one time the mortality at Monte Video itself was -almost as great as at Buenos Ayres. Farms were in -many cases abandoned, and sheep and cattle left to roam -at large; crops rotted in the ground, growers of fruits -and vegetables were ruined, the markets for these products -being closed, and their entrance into the town -prohibited. In fact it appeared as if the destroying -angel was passing over the devoted land; nor do I -believe, from all I could learn on the spot, that cholera -was the only form of disease. It rather resembled the -fearful destruction of the Israelites, when Moses and -Aaron “stood between the living and the dead.” How -soon, however, such fearful visitations are forgotten. -Except from the general appearance of mourning when -I returned to the River Plate about three months later, -and the crowded state of the cemeteries, no one could -imagine that Buenos Ayres and Monte Video had gone -through such a fearful ordeal. Everything went on as -usual, and people looked after their farms and their -merchandise as if nothing had happened, though doubtless -many feared the return of the hot season, before -which very little will have been done in the way of -sanatary precaution. That the cholera will become a -permanent visitor in the River Plate seems unlikely, if -we are to judge from its erratic course in other parts of -the world, but no one can say that the scourge will not -prevail until the cities and towns are effectively sewered -and drained. The climate itself is healthy enough, but -then this is no safeguard against epidemics, which have -their origin in impurities allowed to accumulate until -cities become pest-houses.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>February, I availed myself of the opportunity to ramble -about the city and suburbs, to visit old friends, and to -go over the railways, an account of which will be found -under its proper head. The weather was still very hot, -with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically -grand—more so than I ever remember during a two -years' residence here. From my room window, at the -Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens -lighted up with frequent flashes, and now and again -portions of the bay and of the mountains stood out as if -from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of the thunder, -followed by instant and utter darkness, and with reverberations -shaking the house to its foundations, all -combined to heighten the grandeur and sublimity of -the scene. As for sleeping in the midst of such turmoil, -it was simply impossible.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Both February and March were very wet, stormy -months, and on one occasion some large trees were -blown down about the city, and much damage done to -the roofs of houses, many of which are not very well -protected from such visitations. Similar weather followed -me to San Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after -again visiting the River Plate, the weather was delightfully -cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most agreeable portion -of our summer weather in Europe. There is no -doubt the climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, -and it is a striking fact that scarcely any cases of -epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of the city -was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwithstanding -sick and wounded were constantly arriving -from the seat of war, and that the quarantine was -merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder -storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the -atmosphere. The deluges of rain of course exercise a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>great cleansing power, and it has been noticed in years -when thunder storms did not prevail that much sickness -followed. One requires to go closely over the city -before he finds out improvements which have been -effected in Rio, which are nowhere so palpable as when -passing through the great public thoroughfares. With -such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no -adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be -formed until some of the hills about it are ascended, -such as that of Santa Theresa. It is, however, from the -top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most striking, -from whence also the spectator can form a fair -notion of the extent of the bay.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I have before remarked on the defective state of the -landing-places, that most used, near the custom-house, -being a very dirty, dilapidated wooden jetty, about -which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and it is -always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There -is quite a Babel among the boatmen and their black -hangers-on. There are some other landing-places, with -stone steps, in front of the large square, whence the -ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, but -these are not very convenient, and the untidy state of -the public market which stands here is a disgrace to the -municipality. Indeed nothing can be more derogatory -to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest -harbour in the world, than such landing places, which -create a most unfavourable impression on strangers. -The Custom-house, with its wharves and warehouse, the -Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the -private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water -frontage, but there is still sufficient space left, if it were -properly laid out, as I believe is intended before very -long, for decent landing-places for the public. Speaking -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large -portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an -unsightly building, though immense sums of money have -been spent, and are still being spent, in order to obtain -adequate accommodation for the increasing trade of the -port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every possible -kind are in course of erection, and a few years will -doubtless see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as -the finest building of the sort in South America. The -old Praça do Commercio, or Exchange, with its dismal -vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but -when the Custom-house is completed I believe it is intended -to construct an exchange more worthy of the -place, with suitable accommodation attached. This, -as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, -where the foreign population is numerous and influential, -and ought to be represented in a manner consistent with -its importance.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there -was much sociability,—amongst the English residents at -all events—but this appears to have quite died out, and -even ceremonial visits are now rarely exchanged. The -only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is that -associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course -more or less exclusive in its character. I must nevertheless -notice one institution in which I found a great -change for the better. I mean the English Church. A -good deal of money has been spent in connection with -this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and -certainly it has been well spent. The recess built out -for the communion table is very pretty, and the organ -is well placed, in a line with the body of the church. -There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being -very complete, and the service efficiently performed. -The Rev. Mr. Preston is chaplain.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>Whilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, -and had the honour of being presented to the Emperor, -whom I was glad to see looking well, but thinner than -when I last saw him, fifteen years since. The Palace -is well situated, on a rising ground, with a good prospect, -and appears to be comfortable enough, but without -any gorgeous display. The Court is very simple -in its habits, and the democratic tendencies of the people -render access to it comparatively easy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>With regard to politics, the Government has generally -an opposition party to contend with, both in the -Chamber and in the Senate, but without impeding the -regular proceedings of these bodies, which, on the whole, -are conducted with great decorum, and the speeches -are very fully and fairly reported,<a id='r5' /><a href='#f5' class='c010'><sup>[5]</sup></a> occupying whole -pages of the daily papers. The <cite>Jornal do Commercio</cite> still -stands pre-eminent in the Rio press—as the <cite>Times</cite>, in -fact, of the Brazilian Empire.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The political discussions in the press, which are perfectly -free, are often pursued with considerable acrimony. -At the same time there is a degree of reticence observable -which some of our newspaper writers would do -well to imitate. Brazil does not lack parliamentary -orators or able statesmen, but public business is trammelled -with too much of red tapery as at home. The -current of popular feeling does not run very deep from -the fact that the bulk of the community are too much -absorbed in their business occupations to leave them -much time for political discussions, to which a large -portion of Englishmen devote themselves because they -have little else to do. It must not, however, be inferred -<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>from this remark that Brazilians are indifferent -to what passes inside the walls of the Senate or of the -Chamber. The support the Government has received -in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the -honour and well-being of the Empire is as dear to them -as to the most patriotic people.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports -in Brazil unless specially asked for. I had occasion to -notice the inconvenience caused on a late trip to the -River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that Brazilian -statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, -as I trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the -despatch of passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers -do not carry with them articles subject to duty, -though, of course, a surveillance in this matter is quite -necessary. At Buenos Ayres there is a custom station -on the mole or landing place where passengers can bring -their luggage, which is at once examined and passed, -thus saving much time and trouble. The Post-office -is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are -promptly delivered on arrival of the mails. The -building is, however, quite unsuited to the requirements -of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro, and I learn that it -is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a square -facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the -public.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I found the population on the opposite side of the bay -had not increased as much as I expected, although the -facility of crossing by the large American ferry steamers -is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large straggling -place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, -but there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio -people show much partiality for a residence there -even at a much less rent. Some handsome villas have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>been built there, and it is intended to light the place -with gas, which would be a decided advantage to the -residents. Some of the islands in the upper parts of the -bay are now cultivated and inhabited, and numerous -small craft ply between them and Rio de Janeiro, bringing -down fruits and vegetables.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the appendix to this volume will be found -sundry official documents and statistical information in -reference to the resources and commerce of Brazil. The -institutions of the Empire are very favourable to mercantile -development, and the great progress made within -the past half century is indicative of a highly prosperous -future.</p> - -<hr class='c012' /> - -<div class='footnote' id='f2'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. </span>The Bank, Exchange, Custom House, and Arsenal (of late years greatly -extended) are in the Rua Direita. Besides these, the chief public edifices and -the Imperial Palace, a plain brick building; the Old Palace, on the shore, used -for public offices; a public hospital, alluded to elsewhere, erected in 1841; a -national library, with 800,000 printed volumes, and many valuable MSS.; and a -well-supported opera house, which has supplied Europe with some very popular -performers, especially in the ballet line, as witness that general favourite, Madame -Celeste, who came from Rio, in 1830, with her sister Constance, another danseuse, -and appeared for the first time in England at Liverpool, in the <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">divertissement</span> in -Masaniello, Sinclair being Auber's hero. The educational establishments are -the Imperial College of Don Pedro II.; the College of St. Jose; Schools of Medicine -and Surgery; Military and Naval Academy; and many public schools. It -has also many scientific institutions; a museum rich in Ornithology, Entomology, -and Mineralogy; and a fine botanic garden. Of churches there are upwards of -fifty, not of much external elegance, but most sumptuously decorated in the -interior.</p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f3'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. </span>The inhabitants of Rio Janeiro are fond of carriages, but the specimens -generally seen would hardly do for Hyde Park, being chiefly old-fashioned -coaches, drawn by four scraggy mules, with a black coachman on the box, and a -postillion in jack-boots on the leaders, sitting well back, and with his feet stuck -out beyond the mule's shoulders. The liveries are generally gorgeous enough, -and there is no lack of gold lace on the cocked hats and coats; but a black slave -does not enter into the spirit of the thing, and one footman will have his hat -cocked athwartships, the other fore and aft; one will have shoes and stockings -with his toes peeping through, the other will dispense with them altogether. But -the old peer rolls on unconscious, and I dare say the whole thing is pronounced a -neat turn out. The Brazilians are great snuff-takers, and always offer their box, if -the visitor is a welcome guest. It is etiquette to take the offered pinch with the -left hand. <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">Rapé</span> is the Portuguese for snuff, hence our word Rappee. They do -not smoke much. The opera was good, the house very large, tolerably lighted, -but not so thickly attended as it might be. The ladies look better by candle -light, their great failing being in their complexions, the tint of which may be -exactly described by the midshipman's simile of snuff and butter. The orchestra -was good, many of the performers being blacks or mulattos, who are excellent -musicians. The African race seem to like music and generally have a pretty -good ear. Both men and women often whistle well, and I have heard the -washerwomen at their work whistling polkas with great correctness. I was -amused one evening on going out of the opera when it was half over: offering my -ticket to a decent-looking man, he bowed, but refused it, saying that men with -jackets were not allowed in the house.—<cite>Elves.</cite></p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f4'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. </span>The population of Rio, on the arrival of the royal family, did not amount to -50,000, but afterwards rapidly augmented; so that in 1815, when declared independent, -the number had nearly doubled, and now is estimated at about 400,000 -with the suburbs and the provincial capital of Nitherohy, on the opposite shore of -the Bay. This increase is partly to be ascribed to the afflux of Portuguese, who -have at different times left their country in consequence of the civil commotions -which have disturbed its peace, as well as of English, French, Dutch, German, -and Italians, who, after the opening of the port, settled here, some as merchants, -others as mechanics, and have contributed largely to its wealth and importance. -These accessions of Europeans have affected a great change in the character of the -population, for at the commencement of the century, and for many years afterwards, -the blacks and coloured persons far exceeded the whites, whereas now -they are reduced to less than half the inhabitants. In the aggregate population of -the empire, however, the coloured portion is still supposed to be treble the -white.</p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f5'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. </span>The difference between reporting proceedings of the Brazilian and -English legislatures is that the latter appear daily, whilst it takes many -days before speeches in the Brazilian Chambers are published, and frequently -a large double sheet is issued to make up for arrears.</p> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE WAR IN PARAGUAY.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Leaving for the moment the narrative form, I devote a -chapter to this lamentable struggle, which has entailed -such serious consequences on Brazil, and which at the -time I am writing is yet undetermined. Writers have -differed much as to the origin of the war, but none have -shown how it could have been avoided. I may observe -<i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en passant</span></i> that so far from having entertained any -prejudices against Paraguay, my sympathies have always -been in favour of that country as evinced during my -visit to the River Plate in 1853, at which period the -elder Lopez was alive, and there appeared to be dawning -in the future, not only an era of internal development -for a very fine, fertile territory, but also a relaxation -of the iron rule under which the people had so long -groaned, by encouraging, to a limited extent it might be, -commercial relations with other countries. Lopez -had joined Brazil in putting down the tyranny of Rozas -and in restoring a free government to the Argentine -provinces; the rivers were to be opened by treaty to -all nations, and an era of peace and prosperity appeared -to be the natural result of these arrangements. The -visit of the younger Lopez to Europe, it was thought, -would have instilled into his mind the fact that all the -wealth he saw there emanated from commerce, and -that his first object would be to render Paraguay a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>commercial country. Unfortunately, however, he seems -to have become more enamoured with the martial attitude -of France than anything else, and determined on -his return home to develop the military instead of the -commercial resources of Paraguay. His ambition was -centered in organizing a large army, fortifying the river -approaches to Asuncion, and creating a small but efficient -steam fleet. The experience of the past was thrown -away, and on succeeding his father in the dictatorship, -it became evident that his policy was to be one of -aggrandisement, if it meant anything at all, and that, in -other respects Paraguay was to continue isolated from -her neighbours, and to stand aloof from participation in -the business of the world. Paraguay had no enemies, -nor was there any desire to trouble her; her territorial -position secured her safety from attack, and it is -impossible that all this military and naval preparation -on the part of Lopez could have been merely intended -for purposes of self-defence. The truth is, that Lopez -had always coveted that portion of territory called the -Missions, formerly a great stronghold of the Jesuits, -but now part of the Argentine Confederation; and the -possession of this would bring him close upon Uruguay, -where the sea port of Monte Video afforded a tempting -prize. At the same time, all this involved the prospect -of a collision with other Powers, against which it was -necessary to provide, and this I believe to be the true -reason for the great military preparations of Lopez. I -have already said that Paraguay joined with Brazil in -putting an end to the tyranny of Rozas, and entered -into a treaty by which the navigation of the upper -rivers was to be free and the independence of Uruguay -to be recognised. If ever Brazil had any sinister -design on the latter State this was the time when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>she would have been most likely to assert it, but no -such disposition was evinced. On the contrary, it was -the wish as well as the interest of Brazil to keep -Monte Video a free port, and the rivers open to the -flags of all nations. Unfortunately for the peace of -South America, Monte Video has never had a strong -and independent Government, and during the presidency -of Berro disorders broke out on the frontier. -The persons and properties of Brazilian subjects were -exposed to the inroads of lawless marauders from -Uruguay, until at length the patience of the people of -Rio Grande was exhausted, and they threatened to -take up arms in their own defence, if the Imperial -Government did not at once interfere for -their protection. This statement has been personally -confirmed to me by large landed proprietors who were -themselves on the spot and suffered from the causes -here referred to. Brazil was, therefore, compelled to -send troops to the frontier and to follow the marauders -into Uruguay, until such time as she could obtain -fresh guarantees from a Government which had proved -itself totally incompetent to deal with the matter. -Then came the Colorado movement, headed by Flores, -and further complications ensued, which might have -been settled by the timely intervention of foreign -Governments, but the men in power were quite deaf -to all friendly remonstrances. The flag of Brazil was -grossly insulted, trampled on in the streets of Monte -Video, and the treaty with her publicly burnt. Recent -melancholy occurrences in that city have shown what -excesses can be committed from party spirit, and how -difficult it was at the period I allude to, to avoid -an armed intervention. How these acts affected the -interests of Paraguay it is not easy to conceive. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>Brazil agreed to recognise the independence of -Uruguay, and she left it in that condition, stronger -than it had been for some years previously. It is true -that about this time Lopez had given notice to Brazil -that any interference in the affairs of Uruguay, or the -entry of Brazilian troops into Uruguayan territory, -would be considered by him as a <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">casus belli</span></i>—a piece of -impertinence that Brazil might well disregard, as the -rights of nations allowed reprisals for injuries received, -and this was all Brazil carried into effect. Up to the -point mentioned Lopez had, therefore, no real or -ostensible cause of war against Brazil, but she stood -in the way of the consummation of his ambitious -designs, and so he made what he termed an -interference in Uruguay the pretext for setting his -legions in motion. Without any declaration of war, -he seized and took forcible possession of the steamer -Marquis de Olinda whilst on a peaceable errand up the -River, with Carneiro de Campos, the President of Matto -Grosso on board, and has retained him prisoner ever -since; he marched a division into Brazil, and occupied -the frontier town of Uruguayana, simultaneously sending -his fleet down, no doubt to co-operate with his troops, but -this was prevented by the gallant action of the Riachuello, -in which the Paraguayan navy was nearly destroyed by -the Brazilians. The proceedings of Lopez towards -Brazil were, therefore, offensive and insulting in the -highest degree, and still more so towards the Argentine -Republic, which had really given him no cause of -offence beyond daring to remain neutral, and consequently -refusing to allow the passage of troops -through its territory. Upon the refusal of General -Mitre to grant such permission, he crossed the Parana -and invaded Corrientes, seizing two Argentine vessels -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>as well as the persons and property of Argentine subjects, -on whom he levied black mail. These extreme -measures taken by Lopez towards both countries were -in pigmy imitation of the first Napoleon, whose tactics -Lopez affected to follow by seizing the persons, property, -and territory of his neighbours before it was possible for -them to offer any opposition. Such an offence against the -laws of nations could lead only to an alliance against him as -a common enemy, with the condition that the aggrieved -nations would not lay down their arms until the -offender was punished by expulsion from Paraguay. -In Europe this course was adopted against Napoleon I. -and in South America, under nearly identical circumstances, -an equally strong measure was rendered -necessary for the future peace and security of the -allies. If a case in point was required on the spot, -Paraguay itself had joined in the expulsion of Rozas, -because no security existed for any one so long as that -tyrant dominated at Buenos Ayres. That neither -Brazil nor the Argentine Republic anticipated such -conduct on the part of Lopez is evident from the -unprepared state of both, the latter being at the time -literally without army or navy; indeed, the first check -given to the advance of Lopez was by the late General -Flores, at the head of a gallant little band of Oriental -troops in conjunction with those of Brazil. No impartial -person can question, therefore, that Lopez has -been the sole cause of this long and bloody war, and -that he committed a glaring act of violence towards -his neighbours, who were compelled in self-defence to -enter into a league for the expulsion of so dangerous a -character. To have made peace on any other terms -would have been only playing with a firebrand.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is not my purpose in this chapter to criticise -<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>the manner in which the war has been conducted, or -to point out mistakes which may have been made. -Intelligent Brazilians believe that, instead of sending -a large army by sea, it would have been better to -have made a diversion by marching across the country -to the interior of Paraguay, direct to Asuncion, leaving -Humaita blockaded. Thus a large amount of money -would have been expended in Brazilian territory. -Whether this would have hastened the conclusion of -the war it is difficult to say, but the direct advantages -in other ways would no doubt have been considerable. -However, Brazil is not the only country that has -blundered in carrying on a distant war, as we know -to our cost. That they did not anticipate so vigorous -a resistance is certain, nor was it possible to suppose -that any section of the Argentine people, whose -nationality had been grossly insulted, would have been -lukewarm, or have desired to make peace until the -object of the struggle was accomplished.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Availing of an opportunity to accompany a friend to -this province, we left Rio on Tuesday, the 18th of -February, on board the steamer Ptolemy, with a -remarkably smooth sea, and a light, but cool breeze. -We reached Santos early the following morning. The -steamer was at once moored alongside an iron wharf, -facing the Custom House, and Mr. Miller, one of the -railway officials, came on board with the unpleasant -information that the railway was stopped, owing to the -heavy rains, which appeared to have prevailed here as -at Rio. The town did not look very inviting under the -influence of a hot sun, but Mr. Miller kindly offered us -rooms at the station, where he himself lived, and made -us very comfortable. There was every prospect of our -being obliged to walk up to the top of the Serra, but -fortunately, on the 20th, a telegram came to announce -that the line would be opened to San Paulo the next -morning, when we started with a small train, arrived at -2.33, and drove to the Hotel d'Italia, where rooms had -been engaged for us.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The province of San Paulo has played a distinguished -part in the history of Brazil, and has latterly attracted -much notice from its production of cotton, in addition -to the large quantity of coffee grown and shipped from -the port of Santos, both of which articles are expected -to be greatly increased by the railway facilities. There -<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>can be no doubt that the province offers splendid scope -for emigration, if properly applied, and this important -subject will be specially treated of after I have collected -together the requisite materials. Certainly the size, -extent, and evident prosperity of the city of San Paulo -surprised me, no less than its superiority in most of -the comforts and luxuries to places more favourably -situated by their proximity to the sea; but the large -number of old churches, convents, colleges, and public -institutions date its origin from the time of the -Jesuits, who must have been very industrious and -wealthy to have found the means for building such -huge places, with the object of perpetuating their -order, and for the spread of the Roman Catholic -religion. I much regretted that the stoppage of the -railway, and very unfavourable weather—constant -thunder storms, with deluges of rain—prevented me -travelling some distance into the interior, where the -coffee and cotton plantations lie, but the accounts -received from others, who possess a thorough knowledge -of the localities, enable me to speak most highly -of its resources.</p> - -<p class='c000'>His Excellency, Saldanha Marinho, the President -of San Paulo, and who by his affability and business -habits has won the esteem and affection of the people, -received me kindly during my stay here. He is a -determined supporter of every practical measure having -for its object the improvement of the city and of the -province. Respecting the great work of the railway, on -which so much of the future welfare of the province -depends, I will endeavour to give a tolerably ample -description; but to begin with, it may not be out of -place to quote as follows from the work of Mr. Scully, -entitled “Brazil and its Chief Provinces”:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Passing over the Mugy river you arrive quickly at the foot of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>the gorge formed by the two out-jutting spurs of the buttress-like -mountain, and the black defiant ravine is suggestive of anything but -a railway course. Here the line climbs boldly up the side of the -Mugy spur, at a usual ascent of one in ten, crossing mountain -torrents, leaping gloomy chasms, cutting through solid rocks, -holding hard on to every foot gained, until it attains a resting-place -upon the table land, 2,600 feet high, after five miles of -gigantic excavations, removing 1,100,000 cubic yards of granite -rock and earth.</p> - -<p class='c011'><a id='p53'></a>“Here we must give a slight idea of how this daring plan is -utilised, which was at one time laughed at as an engineering impossibility, -and which even yet stands pre-eminent among similar -works.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“This entire and almost straight ascent of upwards of five miles is -divided into four “lifts” of about a mile and a quarter each, having -a level platform of some 400 feet in length between them. On these -lifts, as in general on all the line, the track is single, except at the -upper half, where it is doubled to admit of the ascending and -descending trains passing each other. At the upper end of each -platform is placed a powerful stationary engine of 200 horse-power, -whose two cylinders are 26 inches diameter and 5 feet stroke, -calculated to haul up 50 tons at the rate of ten miles an hour, -which are supplied by five Cornish boilers, three of which suffice -for the duty.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“A steel wire rope, tested to a strength far exceeding the requirements -which will ever be made upon it, passes over a friction-wheel -on each side of the fly-wheel drum upon which it is wrapped round, -and, one end being attached to an ascending and the other to a -descending train, it is intended to make the “lift” partially self-acting, -as it now wholly is at one of the inclines which is not -supplied with its stationary engine, the weight of the descending -train drawing up the ascending one. Powerful brakes that will -stop a train instantly are supplied to guard against a breaking -down of any part of the machinery, or a rupture of the rope. -From this short description our readers can form an idea of the -mechanical contrivances for effecting the ascent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Throughout these wonderful inclines the most majestic and wild -scenery is observed along the slightly winding way. On the third -lift occurs a ravine still more gloomy than the rest, which is called -the Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell); that, having a width of 900 -feet, is crossed by an iron viaduct, which lies on rows of iron -columns resting on stone piers 200 feet below in the centre of the -line.”</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>I have great pleasure in endorsing all Mr. Scully says as -to the excellent qualities of the railway officials, and can -also affirm that to Mr. Aubertin and Mr. Hutchings -is due the extraordinary development that has been -effected in the production of cotton.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>I will now proceed to describe the railway in my -own terms, without reference to the statistics or the -reports that have been published about it. My impression -on leaving the station was that of setting off on an -adventurous journey—not merely ensconcing oneself in -the corner of a railway carriage and taking a comfortable -nap. Curiosity was excited to the utmost, -after the accounts I had heard, and the temporary -stoppage of the line by recent heavy rains washing -down some of the slopes of the cuttings rather added -to the interest of a first visit. There was a tolerable -amount of bustle at starting, but away we went about -eleven o'clock, over low, swampy ground. For seven -miles the rails run parallel with the old road to Santos, -and the bridge at Cubitao (an arm of the sea) is passed, -beyond which for a further distance of six and a half -miles (making 13½ miles to the foot of the Serra) it -becomes a dense mass of forest and jungle, which it -must be difficult to convert to any useful purpose; -indeed, the curse of the country is this mass of useless -forest, only fit for the haunts of wild animals and -reptiles. How they have hitherto been able to carry -on the traffic between Santos and San Paulo is a -mystery when we look at the country and miles of -wood passed through. However, we are now in sight -of the first rise of the mountain, which looks grim -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>enough, and the train comes to a stop at the station, -after passing an open space of ground, on which stands -a house, built and formerly inhabited by the contractors, -with almost a little village about it, occupied -by their staff, &c., where, I understand, cricket was -often played to while away the leisure hours after the -labours of the day. Now everything is going to wreck, -and if the land is not kept clear it will soon be a -jungle again: such is the quick growth of vegetation -in this country and so rank does it become. The -station at the foot of the Serra is a good substantial -sort of house, the station master being a young -German, with a wife and family, very comfortable -adjuncts in so lonely a spot; and the house was surrounded -by fowls and other live stock needful to family -wants. We stood contemplating the height we had to -be dragged with a certain kind of awe, and presently -we saw the train descending, which it did steadily -enough, bringing Mr. Aubertin, the general manager, -Captain Burton, her Majesty's consul, and some other -notabilities of San Paulo. The former gentlemen -returned with us, adding materially to the interest and -pleasure of the trip by their intelligent knowledge of -all we had to see and pass through.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/illus_fp057.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>Bridge Viaduct on the San Paulo Railway.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>Well, the signal is given, and we are off, mounting -an incline of about 1 in 10 for a distance of some 800 -yards, where there is a curve, and we are shut out from -the lower level of the line, steadily ascending the -mountain, until we reach the first lift, about 1¼ miles. -After a short delay, we were hooked on the second lift, -and as we mount the scenery becomes grander, the -shadows of the mountains deeper, and the work becomes -heavier. I was surprised to find so many curves, -which are an additional strain on the wire rope, as well -as an additional risk, requiring close attention to the -break, where we rode in order to have a good view of -everything. Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief, and Mr. -Welby, locomotive superintendent, were with us, and -we got down to look over Fairburn's splendid stationary -engines, which are of 200 horse-power, embedded in a -granite foundation, about 40 feet deep, with live boilers -to each, three being generally used. The curves continue -on the third lift, close to which, entering the -fourth lift, is the wonderful viaduct across a chasm in -the mountain, which makes your head giddy to look -down. The bridge is certainly a great engineering -achievement, resting on iron pillars with a stone foundation, -the centre being nearly 200 feet deep. We are -accustomed to great altitude of railway bridges at home -and elsewhere, but there is a peculiar aerial look about -this one which makes one glad to be over it. At one -point in this fourth section is a fine view of a deep -valley behind us, the opposite mountain one dense mass -of forest, and the scene is inexpressibly grand. To -have made the lifts straight would have necessitated -frequent tunnelling and added another half million to -the cost of construction. On reaching the top of the -Serra, a distance of about five miles from its base, the -break is detached, a locomotive takes hold of the six -carriages which have come up in two lifts, and away we -whisk for some time through a thickly wooded country, -for a distance of about 48 miles, stopping at several -stations. Some miles before reaching San Paulo are -the Campos, or level plains, covered with a short grass, -and rather swampy, but no cattle are to be seen, owing, -I believe, to the number of insects which fasten on them, -causing sores, and being otherwise injurious. It is, -however, a great relief to the eye, after the dense forests -passed through, to come upon plains.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>From San Paulo the line passes on to Jundiahy, a -distance of 44 miles, or a total length from Santos of -88 miles, the chief interest of course being centred in -the gigantic works of the Serra. The San Paulo Railway -is undoubtedly one of the grandest works yet made -with English capital in Brazil, and it is destined to -play a very important part in the future development -of this fine province. Engineering mistakes have, -undoubtedly, been made, and the want of a personal -superintendence of the engineer-in-chief, at all events -during the construction of the important works of the -Serra, is amongst the complaints made by the Brazilian -Government, as also the manner in which the contract -was executed. It is also questionable whether -another and less costly route could not have been -selected to be worked by locomotives, instead of the -old fashioned but dangerous lifts. However, for the -present, this is mere matter of controversy or opinion. -The railway is made, though far from being complete -or perfect, and it is evident that a considerable expenditure -has to be faced before sufficient traffic can be -carried on to realise the expectations of directors and -shareholders, few of whom know anything about the -undertaking or are able to comprehend the difficulties -it has still to pass through.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is curious that the real traffic is only tapped at the -extreme end of the line (Jundiahy), where only commences -cotton growing, and the great coffee plantations -are some 30 miles further on, to which district a private -company is now trying to get the line extended. One -advantage possessed by the existing company will be in -having their mileage rate for the bulk of their traffic -over the whole of the line, and of course it will be an -additional advantage to present shareholders if the line -should be continued to Campinas, which is, I believe, a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>large and thriving place, the abode of many wealthy -proprietors. Passenger traffic can only be limited for -some time to come, from the absence of a resident -population along the line; at the same time it will -naturally increase between Santos, San Paulo, and the -upper part of the Province, particularly when the -line is extended in that direction. The stoppage -of the line is between San Paulo and -Jundiahy, where the cuttings have given way to -some extent, a contingency, I fear, they will always be -exposed to, from the heavy rains which prevail, and I -believe I am justified in adding, the imperfect manner -in which some of them have been constructed. Whilst -expressing my admiration at the courage and enterprise -of the resident engineer and superintendent, who jointly -succeeded in getting the line opened, I cannot conceal -from myself the difficulties they have still to overcome -in order to carry on an adequate traffic and get the -line accepted by Government. One thing is very -certain, that had a deputation of shareholders been sent -out to look over the intended line before fairly concluding -the contract for making it, they would have -returned so scared and frightened as to have led to -an immediate dissolution of the company, and San -Paulo would hardly have had its railway in this generation, -so far as English capital is concerned. I well -remember the kind of awe with which I looked over the -plans and sections of the line before it was commenced, -nor has this effect been diminished by a personal inspection -of the works up to this place. That the railway -will be a grand thing for the province there can be no -doubt, and this consideration ought to render the -Government lenient towards a company which, apart -from its other difficulties, has suffered so much by maladministration -at home.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>In describing the works of the Serra, I have omitted -to allude to the double rails which are laid near approaches -to the stationary engines, so that the trains can -pass each other, which, of course, they are constantly -doing, one up and the other down, on the several lifts. -I was at a loss also to understand how they could work -their goods traffic to a large extent with the amount of -trains running. I now find the latter applies only to -the passengers, and that produce is dealt with separately, -collected at the top of the Serra, and sent down during -the day, three waggon loads at a time, the waggons -being collected together at the foot of the Serra, and -taken on to the station at Santos as convenient. These -arrangements necessitate a large amount of rolling stock -and extra shed accommodation, which I believe is about -to be supplied. Another feature in the works of the -Serra is the loose kind of material they have had to go -through instead of granite rock, which they expected, -the former being apt to crumble away from the effects -of rain, although latterly the road has stood very well -in this respect. Some of the embankments crossing the -gorges of the mountains are almost perpendicular, and -involved a heavy amount of labour and expense. It is -quite frightful to look down them. Of course the -traffic of the Serra can only be worked from sunrise to -sunset, but a large amount of produce can be brought -down during that time.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I have now to record a trip over the remaining -portion of the line to Jundiahy, the terminus. An -announcement had been issued that traffic would be -resumed over the whole line on the 2nd March, but -a continuance of wet weather caused further and serious -impediment, so I availed of the kindness of the officials, -who were making a survey of the state of the works, to -go to Jundiahy in the best manner circumstances would -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>permit. We started about 8 a.m., on Tuesday, the -23rd March, in a carriage attached to the engine, having, -amongst others, Mr. Aubertin, superintendent; -Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief; the fiscal, or Government -engineer; the Postmaster-General, Captain Burton, and -other persons, with some luggage belonging to them, -and some small stores for the use of the line.</p> - -<p class='c000'>My impression was that I had seen the heaviest works -on the line, but this was a great mistake, as I soon found -out. The first few miles were not of much interest, -but afterwards, as we approached the mountain scenery, -the view became very fine,—the bold outline of the -Jaraguay, a mountain where gold mines exist, but long -since ceased working—deep gorges began to open out, -and huge hanging forests towered above us, in their -wildest and most primitive form. At the first station -I got on the engine with Mr. Fox, and certainly it is -difficult to imagine a country less adapted to a railway—making -it against nature, as some one significantly -observed. It is a succession of deep cuttings, high -embankments, curves, and heavy gradients the whole -distance, at times with an incline of 1 in 45, and only -occasionally what may be termed a bit of straight -road. It is really wonderful how people could be -found to make such a railway in this country. Scarcely -a human habitation to be seen along the whole distance, -except the rough mud huts for persons connected with -it; and about three stations between San Paulo and -Jundiahy. The stations themselves are barely sufficient -for the station master to live in, though probably -adequate under present circumstances. At one of them -(Belem) a small quantity of cotton was stored, having -gone there direct, but no means of forwarding it on at -present.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>The ordinary mule road to Jundiahy crosses and runs -parallel to the railway for some distance, and a -wretched state it appeared to be in—deep mud holes -and quagmires, through which the poor mules have to -struggle.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I must now refer to some of our difficulties, resulting -from the state in which we found the road. The first -actual gap occurs some seventeen or eighteen miles from -San Paulo, where the river current has carried away -a large culvert, the rails and iron bowls (sleepers) -attached to them hanging suspended for some twenty -feet. They were at work rebuilding another culvert. -We had to leave the carriage, cross the stream, and, -walking some little distance, to get to another engine, -which with a ballast truck was waiting there. On we -went again, at times having to pull up or go slowly over -slippery places, until we passed the tunnel, with water -dripping from the roof. On the other side of the -tunnel occurs the most serious stoppage, the whole side -of a huge hill having apparently moved forward, the -advanced portion of it blocking up the road. Some -under current has raised the rails several feet in places, -notwithstanding the immense piles of timber that have -been driven in to prevent encroachment. The conclusion -is that a mass of quicksands, swollen by the heavy -rains, has forced its way under the hill side and under -the bed of the railway. The labour here will be very -great, by having to remove the falling mass, and the -uncertainty is when the movement may subside. The -“mountain in labour” has brought forth no “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ridiculus -mus</span>” in this case. After walking past this obstruction, -we again mounted on the ballast truck, and went along -until we came to a place where the river had quite -overflowed the rails, and the engine had to force its -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>way through two or three feet of water, of course at a -very slow and cautious pace; here they are raising the -road so as to escape, if possible, future inundations. -Once through this last impediment, we rattled along -over a good hard bit of road at a good pace to -Jundiahy, the end of our adventurous journey. The -station is a little distance from the town, which stands -on a hill, and after partaking of some solid refreshments, -which we fortunately found ready at the Railway -Hotel, in half an hour we were again on a ballast -truck going through the same process of changing -from one truck to another, walking over slippery -ground, until we finally again joined the carriage on -the opposite side of the broken culvert, before arriving -at which a thunder storm came on, accompanied by -torrents of rain, and most of us were thoroughly wet -through. The storm continued nearly to San Paulo, -but it is amongst the gorges of the mountains it comes -down most furiously.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is not my intention to comment further on the -errors that have been made in the construction of this -railway. No doubt obstacles had to be met at every -step; nor can shareholders be supposed to know much -about engineering details of this kind. They subscribe -their money on the faith of a Government guarantee, -believing in the estimates, and that of course the line -will, under any circumstances, pay its working expenses. -The late Mr. Brunel used to repudiate the existence of -engineering difficulties. It was a mere question of -money; but I think had he surveyed the intended line -of the San Paulo Railway he would have said both -these points were involved, the result being that the -original estimates are greatly exceeded, and the works -still require a considerable outlay before they can be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>permanently relied on. The thing certainly appears -incredible, if it were not the fact, that to work a line -consisting almost entirely of short curves and heavy -gradients, the directors should have sent out rigid -locomotives suited to a first-class English railway, without -even bogie frames attached, causing great wear and -tear to both engines and rails. I quite believe that with -suitable locomotives the line may be safely and properly -worked, and it seems exactly a case in point for such -engines as Fairlie's. The question as to maintenance of -way must always be a very important one; whether in -such a mountainous country, subject at seasons to heavy -rains and flooded rivers, and with a treacherous soil, the -nature of the works is such as can be relied on, for -unless this is the case, as the public journals of San -Paulo justly observe, the real utility of the railway is -destroyed. Coffee growers and cotton planters have -been looking to it as a sure and certain means of getting -their produce down to Santos, and unless this can -be depended on they will have to resort to the old, -cumbrous, and expensive mode of carrying it upwards -of one hundred miles on the backs of mules as heretofore. -It is a momentous question for this province -whether or not they can depend on railway conveyance, -which I think may fairly be looked for when the line -becomes consolidated, but both shareholders and the -Government must be prepared to make sacrifices of no -common kind before this end is finally attained. That -the officials and managers of the line in Brazil are doing -all they can is very certain, and it is for the company -or the shareholders to provide them with everything -required to ensure the permanent success of the company. -They entered into a solemn contract with the -Brazilian Government and the Provincial Government -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>here, which it is their duty to fulfil, no matter at what -sacrifice, and the sooner the shareholders look their -position in the face the better, instead of being guided -entirely by directors, who could only appreciate their -position if they came out in a body and personally -inspected the line. One thing is very certain, that if it -had not been for the great liberality of the Baron de -Mauá in coming to the rescue of the concern, the works -might never have been completed or the line opened.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE CITY OF SAN PAULO.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>If it appears a long time in reaching here after passing -the wonders of the Serra, I was not disappointed -either in the first peep at the city or by a more intimate -acquaintance with it. One cannot help marvelling how -the adventurous handful of men who originally penetrated -the forests and founded these cities in South -America had the courage and perseverance to do so; -but I believe they availed, in many cases, of the Indian -tracks, and doubtless of Indian assistance occasionally. -The city has rather an imposing aspect as you wind -round it to the station, being built on a ridge of high -ground which overlooks the River Tieté—a stream -rising in the neighbouring hills, and after traversing -nearly the whole of the province, eventually finds its -way to the Parana and the Paraguay. At the railway -station sundry omnibuses and carriages were waiting to -receive the passengers. We drove to the Hotel d'Italia, -where a friend had taken rooms for us, and found ourselves -tolerably comfortable in a large house rather the -worse for wear, and, like most things in this country, -allowed to get out of repair. During the construction -of the railway it was the head-quarters of the engineering -staff.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The first thing we did next morning was to pay our -respects to the President of the Province, who received -<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>us very graciously. He is a man of a very expressive, -benevolent countenance, and I believe he administers -the affairs of the province in a most satisfactory manner—not -the easiest of tasks in such troublous times as -the present.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A ramble over the city impresses one favourably: -good wide streets, paved with a material resembling -macadam. It is obtained from one of the neighbouring -hills, and forms a capital road. The sides are well -made of large flags, much superior to those of Rio de -Janeiro, although the pavement there is admirable. -There are several fine churches, an extensive new -public market, and, as a rule, the houses are well and -substantially built. The shops are also numerous and -well appointed with all the requisites for convenience -and comfort suited to a city of 20,000 to 25,000 inhabitants. -There are several national colleges here, with a -number of young students, who help to enliven the -place. The Province of San Paulo has always held a -good position, from the enterprise and spirit of the -people, the latter owing in some measure to the cool -climate, which even now occasionally renders woollen -clothing and blankets at night desirable, and a few -months hence it will be positively cold, with ice in the -morning. Previously to and since our arrival it has -been raining so much that a vast tract of land bordering -the Tieté is overflowed, and travelling must be very -bad. We took a drive to the church of Nossa Senhora -de Penha, a few miles distant, on elevated ground, from -whence a good view of the city and surrounding country -is obtained; but unfortunately rain came on, and we had -only to make the best of our way home, the carriages -nearly sticking fast in a quagmire. Otherwise the road -is a pretty good one.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>I may here allude to the kind hospitality of Captain -and Mrs. Burton, which rendered our visit an exceedingly -agreeable one. On the occasion of this visit to -Nossa Senhora de Penha, a curious incident occurred. -On our way out Mrs. Burton took a fancy to some -geese which were quietly feeding by the roadside, and -she determined to make a purchase of them on our way -back, although it was raining heavily. After some -bargaining the geese were bought, their legs were tied, -and each of us took charge of one or more. They were -quiet enough until we reached the city, where the -people began to pelt us with wax water balls, as it was -the Intrudo time, when such pastime is still carried on -to a great extent in an old fashioned place like San -Paulo. The geese became alarmed, struggled to release -themselves, and after some difficulty and much amusement -we got them safely disposed of in the yard attached -to the Consulate. Geese are very plentiful in Brazil, -but there is a prejudice against them amongst the -natives as food, from an idea that they eat snakes and -other vermin, but a few weeks good domestic feeding is -calculated to do away with any objection of this sort, -as we had occasion to find in the excellent quality of -these very geese when we afterwards dined at the -Consulate.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A ridge of mountains forms a background to the -north-west of San Paulo, in some of which are gold -mines that have been long abandoned, nor is the -mineral wealth of the province at all developed. The -railway may bring with it new enterprise of this kind, -but it will be slow work.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I went over the San Bento Convent, where only one -priest appears to reside in an enormous building, a portion -of which has lately been fitted up with considerable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>taste. The church is also kept in good order, but it -seems absurd for only one man to occupy such a building. -The wealth of religious orders in Brazil is by no -means insignificant, and it would be to the advantage of -the country and of the people if this was made available -for national purposes. Religion would be better appreciated, -and the State would be able to form colonies in -some of the richest lands of the Empire, which naturally -enough fell into the hands of religious bodies.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is said that the Tropic of Capricorn passes close to -the city of San Paulo, but of course the exact spot cannot -be defined. There is plenty of fruit and vegetables -to be had, grapes are abundant and very cheap, -good milk and fresh butter are easily obtainable, the -cow going round to the houses in the morning with a -bell attached to her, and generally the calf following. -Indeed, a great many of the comforts and conveniences -of life are to be found here which do not exist in other -Brazilian towns, whilst the climate is infinitely superior. -For many months of the year the thermometer ranges -about 60°, and at times goes down to 40°; on the other -hand it is sometimes very hot, but of short duration. -This morning I saw a black boy in the street engaged in -the occupation of shoeblack, with his little box and -brushes very much after the London style. In fact -there is a more general inclination to work when it -is not so intensely hot. There goes the railway whistle, -the train starting for Santos, and it will return about -3 p.m., bringing the passengers by steamer from Rio, -which left there yesterday. There are two fast steamers -a week between Rio and Santos, so the communication -is well kept up.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The number of old fashioned waggons or carts on two -solid wooden wheels, drawn by teams of oxen according -<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>to the weight carried, and the constant passage of them, -and of mules and horses, the former with tinkling bells, -all laden with country produce, indicate the nature of -the traffic which existed prior to the opening of the railway, -rendering the streets of the city a busy scene. -The railway being closed between this and Jundiahy no -doubt increases this traffic for a time, but it must -always exist to a greater or a less degree, as everything -for the consumption of the city has to be brought into -it by these means. The bulk of the through traffic of -coffee and cotton must, however, inevitably find its way -on to the rails and be taken down the Serra, as it is -impossible mules can compete with a railway for so -great a distance. The troops of mules, horses, and -carts assemble at shops or warehouses in streets where -their business is carried on, their produce discharged, -and a certain portion of the animals loaded back to -their respective destinations. Hence the perpetual -tinkling of bells and creaking of wheels; at the same -time a number of carriages and tilburys are constantly -in motion, conveying passengers about the city or outskirts, -causing a degree of activity one would otherwise -hardly expect to find.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Yesterday, Sunday, being the first Sunday in Lent, -there was a grand procession, consisting of a large -number of figures of saints, carried on men's shoulders, -after the old style of chairing an M.P. at home. Sundry -children were dressed up as angels, and there were -also a military band and some few soldiers; for, as -the latter have been drained by the war, only a sufficient -number remain to keep guard, &c. The figures -are as large as life. They were collected together at -the church of San Francisco, a large and rather showy -building, and at five o'clock the procession started, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>amidst discharging of rockets, ringing of bells, and other -demonstrations. It passed the street in front of the -hotel, and, being a tolerably long one, it had rather an -imposing appearance. After traversing the principal -streets of the city, it came back by a side one, which -also skirted the hotel. A thunder storm had been -gathering, and broke over the city just as the procession -was reaching the church from whence it started. -An indescribable scene of confusion ensued. The pace -was quickened, angels were lifted on the shoulders of -blacks, the carriers of saints hurried along as fast as the -weight permitted—in fact, it was a race with the saints—each -trying to pass the other, to the imminent danger -of an upset. The only part of the procession which -retained a show of decorum was that in charge of the -Host, where the high priest walked under a canopy -with a number of other priests, accompanied by attendants, -swinging censers; and as the Host passed, all the -spectators knelt down. Fortunately the rain kept off -until the greater part reached the square, and the saints -escaped a terrible wetting, as it came down in torrents, -with loud peals of thunder and lightning, such as I have -rarely met with.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The storm continued in this way for several hours, -and curiously enough in the midst of it came a telegram -from the Government of Rio de Janeiro, announcing -that the iron-clad fleet had succeeded in passing the -fortress of Humaita, while a division of Brazilian troops -had also taken a redoubt, &c., particulars of which -will doubtless shortly reach England. Excitement -was at its height, and spite of the thunder, lightning, -and rain, houses began to light up, rockets were flying -about, and later on, a band of music, with many followers, -paraded the streets, playing and shouting vivas, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>with other joyous demonstrations quite edifying under -such an accumulation of atmospheric difficulties. On -Monday evening the city was entirely illuminated with -candles, lamps, and Chinese lanterns, the latter very -pretty, and the effect altogether striking. A full -military band paraded the streets, followed by crowds -of people; indeed, nearly the whole of the population, -male and female, turned out and paraded the streets -to a late hour, the wonder being where they all came -from. The demonstration continued for three days, or -rather nights, but not on so extensive a scale, nor was -the firing of rockets so profuse. The news from the -seat of war has, therefore, created quite a sensation, the -Paulistos being somewhat a martial people, and proud -of the exploits of their countrymen before Humaita, -though further advices are needed before the war can -be considered at an end. A drawback accompanied the -war news, namely, the cruel assassination of General -Flores at Monte Video, and the sanguinary proceedings -that followed on the occasion.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I may mention having attended a sitting of the Provincial -Assembly, in a very pokey, close room attached -to the palace, with a miserably low gallery at each end -for the public. The proceedings, however, were orderly -and dignified, and good speeches were made, one by -Senhor Leite Moraes, a tall, handsome man, who appears -likely to distinguish himself as an orator. The subject -under discussion was a complaint against the conduct of -the Roman Catholic priests. There are thirty-six members -of the Provincial Chambers, who annually attend -for a period of two months, and some of them come -from considerable distances at much personal inconvenience -to themselves. I believe they are to have a -larger and better place for conducting their business, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>which is certainly very desirable. I also visited, in -company with Captain Burton, English Consul, one of -the seminaries or schools, presided over by French -monks, who received us with attention, showed us over -the extensive building and well laid-out gardens, and -entertained us afterwards with some good English beer. -The college, to which a good sized garden is attached, -contains accommodation for about one hundred youths, -who come here for their education, and remain several -months, being comfortably lodged, and, I believe, well -cared for.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This is only one of the many similar establishments -in San Paulo, which, in this respect, answers to our -Cambridge or Oxford. The view from the college is -very extensive and picturesque—the city on one side, -the large plain in which the city stands, with mountains -in the distance, and close to the railway station. We -heard the locomotive whistle, and saw the steam a long -way off, reaching the station in time to see the train -come in with 115 passengers, quite a large number, it -being about the period of the students returning. It -also brought a company of performers from one of the -Rio de Janeiro theatres, who are going to afford the -inhabitants a month's display of their artistic skill, so -that in all respects the city will be very lively during -the season of Lent, one of the eccentricities connected -with the Roman Catholic religion. I went to the public -gardens, which are at only a little distance from the -railway station, and cover a large space of ground. -They are in tolerable order, with flower beds and a -piece of water in the centre. A considerable sum of -money must have been originally expended on them, -but not keeping things up is one of the major defects of -the system in this country.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>I thought processions were over for the present, but -last evening there was one of some magnitude, conveying -a saint from one church to another, and spite of wet -streets after the heavy rain, a large number of people -turned out to witness and follow the participants in the -ceremony. To-day, however, being Friday, the 6th of -March, was set apart for a special occasion—a meeting, -not a race of saints; and, for a wonder, the day and -night have been remarkably fine, a beautiful bright -moon now shining after the great bustle is over and the -saints gone to rest, though the illuminated altars in -various parts of the city are still glittering in all their -tinsel, with numerous worshippers, after depositing in a -plate their offerings in the shape of “dumps,” a slang -phrase for copper coins. Preparatory symptoms have -been going on for some days at a sort of large closet, or -“hole in the wall” of the house opposite, belonging to -an old nobleman, whose wife departed this life to-day. -The folding doors had been opened and a large blue -cloth thrown over the sanctuary from a balcony above, -but still it was easy to see that something unusual was -in progress; and to-day, about the time of the procession, -the doors opened, and the curtain was withdrawn, -revealing a very pretty altar, with a cross and small -figures of saints at the top, the back parts and sides -being covered with gold and silver tinsel, and groups or -garlands of artificial flowers tastefully arranged, the -whole lighted up by an immense number of candles, -many of them in silver candlesticks, provided or lent for -the occasion by devotees. There were about a dozen -or more of these old cupboard altars decked out, each -apparently vying for supremacy in effect. But I am -forgetting the procession itself, which began to form at -five o'clock, accompanied by the usual paraphernalia—a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>number of young girls dressed up as angels, bands of -music, soldiers with fixed bayonets, the President of -the Province, and all the dignitaries, with the high -priest under a canopy and his attendants as before, -whilst in front and behind walked the multitude. The -meeting of the saints took place close to the hotel, -where a halt was made, and a stout ecclesiastic (the -bishop's secretary, I believe), for whom a very large -pulpit had been temporarily erected at the corner of -four streets, addressed a very energetic discourse to the -multitude, until his voice began to get rather squeaky, -nor could very much be made of what he said beyond -that his listeners were a very bad lot, and required all -the intervention of the saints before them to save them -from perdition. The sermon ended, some music and -singing took place before the altar opposite to our hotel, -after which the procession went on, passing all the -street altars, and this part of the ceremony ended when -the saints were fairly housed. For hours, however, -before the bright gaudy altars, and the still brighter -moon, the whole population of the place passed in -review, making their reverence and depositing their -“dumps” or offertories.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Whether or not these ceremonies are conducive to -the maintenance of the Roman Catholic Religion I -cannot pretend to say, but certainly they are preserved -here in all their original stage effect (for it can be -called nothing else) just as I first recollect them in -Brazil. I understand that in other parts of the Empire -they have much fallen off. San Paulo has been more -or less isolated, and it is only since the opening of the -railway that the foreign element has been introduced. -Formerly a voyage to Rio de Janeiro was quite an undertaking; -now, by rail and steam, it is an affair of two -<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>days. One thing is very clear, that processions and -religious observances of this kind are very popular here. -It is quite astounding to see the number of people filling -the streets, mostly dressed in their best garments, but -to-day the ladies wore chiefly black. On the other -hand, the black women—the “swells,” as they are -called—prefer bright colours, and generally in good -taste—white and coloured muslin, with gay shawls -thrown over their ample figures, many of them very tall, -fine looking women. Considering the dull, monotonous -life here, these religious festivals are unquestionably a -great relief to the female portion of the population, -with whatever motive they may attend them; nor can -one help being struck with their apparent earnestness of -worship to dumb idols, and the constant stream of -“dumps” poured into the plates by high and low, rich -and poor, the latter bestowing their mite freely. A -parade over the city on such occasions in their best -attire, and the opportunity for showing off, has no doubt -some influence, but this may be combined with religious -feeling, according to their interpretation of it. Amongst -the numerous votaries present I may mention the hardy, -bronzed, country race, men who travel over the country -with mules, leading the life of gipsies, and not unlike -them, wrapped in a kind of coloured “poncho,” similar -to that worn in the River Plate. They almost live in -the saddle, and are a very fine class of men—true Paulistos. -But I see they are putting out the lights at the -altar opposite, so it is time to extinguish mine and go -to bed, as the clock is just striking midnight. To-morrow -the folding-doors will be closed, and appear as -the ordinary appendages of the house, leaving “not a -wreck behind,” except a few leaves of dead flowers -scattered about the streets.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>After a night's rest, I find that things have assumed -their usual quiet course, enlivened only by the continued -favourable news from the seat of war, which -keeps the church bells going, rockets firing, and bands -of music parading the streets at night. These public -demonstrations have been of the most lively kind, -assisted by a bright moon, without a cloud in the sky; -indeed you can see to read by its rays. Moonlight -nights are agreeable in any country, but in these tropical -countries they seem to have an influence both on body -and mind, refreshing the physique and raising the -spirits. The atmosphere at this elevated spot is so cool -at night that, however hot the day, you sleep in comparative -comfort, and awake to enjoy the cool breeze of -the early morning.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I took a ride in company with Mrs. Burton in the -direction of what is called the Luz, past the railway -station, where are numerous country houses, and a -handsome bridge over the Tieté, after which the road -goes through low ground, now entirely flooded, forming -a swamp of many miles in extent. A couple of miles -further on brings you to a rather sharp hill, on which -is a small, rough-looking chapel, never finished, where -people come on a kind of pilgrimage, or to enjoy the -beautiful view from it. Looking back, the city of San -Paulo is seen to much advantage, and to the left, some -thirty-five miles distant, appear the spurs of the mountains, -past which the railway runs to Santos. In the -opposite direction, and apparently much nearer than -they are, you see the chain of hills through which the -railway proceeds to Jundiahy, the celebrated Jaraguay -(or gold mountain) to the left of them, standing out -very boldly in the light of the setting sun. Altogether -it is considered one of the prettiest short rides about -<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>the place, there being a great variety of them. The -site of the chapel also enjoys the reputation of being in -the exact line of the tropic of Capricorn, so that San -Paulo is just outside it. We reined up a short time to -enjoy the prospect and then cantered back for dinner.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A perusal of accounts from England by the last mail, -and of those from the River Plate, form a very agreeable -diversion to the otherwise monotonous life one has to -lead here, although my visit has been an exception to -the rule in this respect from the occurrences detailed in -previous pages. It is impossible to read the official -and private communications from the River without -feeling deeply grieved at the tragic scenes that have -lately been acted there. The correspondent of the -<cite>Jornal do Commercio</cite> at Monte Video gives a very -graphic account of the assassination of poor General -Flores and the events arising out of it; and I incline to -believe that, however deplorable, they nipped in the bud -a very formidable conspiracy, which, had it been successful, -would have deluged Uruguay with blood for a -long time, and might otherwise have complicated the -position of things, as there can be little doubt the first -act of the Blanco party would have been to do away -with the Triple Alliance, so far as Monte Video is concerned, -and to institute a renewal of their insulting conduct -towards Brazil. The changed aspect of the war, with -a prospect of its speedy termination, will strengthen -the hands of the Colorados, and, it is to be hoped, -maintain peace and order in the little Republic. The -writer already mentioned goes into very minute details -of the passage of Humaita by the Brazilian ironclads; and -there is quite a tinge of romance attached to their performances, -which certainly reflect the highest credit on -the gallantry of the commanders and crews; nor less so -<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>the victory obtained by the Marquis de Caxias, the combined -effects of which must lead to the occupation of -Asuncion and to the ultimate surrender or destruction -of Lopez himself. That his resistance has been wonderfully -stubborn no one can deny; still less the pertinacity -which has distinguished the conduct of the allies under -difficulties pronounced by some first-rate military -authorities to be insurmountable.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I have not yet referred to the theatrical performances -now going on here, with a company from one of the -Rio theatres, which draws crowded houses in a building -almost as large as Covent Garden. It is in a very improvised -state, but sufficiently got up to answer the -purpose; and in a climate like this external appearances -are not much thought of provided there is enough ventilation, -which is certainly the case in the San Paulo -Theatre. A stranger cannot help feeling surprised on -entering to see so large a place, having three tiers of -boxes, filled chiefly by well-dressed ladies, and a gallery -for what we term the “gods,” the gentlemen being -in the pit, which holds fully 500 people and was quite -crowded. Each one has what we call a stall, but here -cane seats, with backs, divided by arms, so that you are -very comfortably seated. The large attendance is explained -by the circumstance of the city being dependent -on casual performances, and of course everybody is -anxious to take advantage of the opportunity. There -is no regular company attached to the theatre, but the -attendance, appearance, and dress of the ladies of San -Paulo on these occasions will compare favourably with -what is presented in any city of South America. As -to the performance, it is usually a compilation from -some French rubbishy novel; but the acting is tolerably -good, and the audience attentive, sitting patiently for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>the five or six hours commonly occupied by the piece—a -very great objection.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To-day—March 16—is the first of term at the College, -where a strong muster of students took place at -an early hour of the morning, and I believe that some -of the ceremonials that occur on such occasions at -Oxford and Cambridge also prevail here. The presence -of nearly a thousand students gives a tone of animation -to the old city, and is a set-off to the constant creaking of -waggon wheels and the tinkling of bells of mules, which -indicate its commercial character. Brazil is chiefly indebted -to this city for a swarm of lawyers, many of whom -have been, and continue to be, distinguished men, but -it would be far better for the country if many of them -were brought up to agricultural or commercial pursuits.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the seaport towns the Portuguese continue to act -as the chief traders, but in the interior the latter are -mostly Brazilians. There is now the army, the navy, -and the engineering pursuits open to the youth of Brazil, -and I have no doubt they will by degrees take up positions -more beneficial to their country than that of mere -disputants, or lawyers, which characters are sadly too -numerous.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Took an early ride to the north of San Paulo on the -17th, from whence there was a fine view of an extensive -valley, where the mist was rising and floating away to -the distant hills on the other side. We met troops of -mules coming in with their drivers in their picturesque -coloured ponchos, and also a group of women approaching -the city. Skirting a wood to the left, through some -pretty looking scenery, we came upon the new Santos -road, made a few years back at great expense; and a -most admirable road it is, but, it appears, not much -used since the railway was opened, passing through a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>most admirable road it is, but it appears, not much -used since the railway was opened, passing through a -poor, uncultivated country. If the large amount expended -on this road had been laid out at the terminus -of the line at Jundiahy, towards the coffee producing -districts, it might have been of much greater importance -to the Province. Odd enough, it was made in opposition -to the railway, although it must have been evident -that the latter would take a large portion of the traffic, -and that that by mules from San Paulo to Santos would -be greatly reduced. The projectors, who were chiefly -large coffee growers of the Province, might have supposed -a good road to Santos would keep a check on the -railway as to charges of transit, and be used in case of -any partial stoppage of the railway; but unfortunately -the heavy rains which shut up the latter for a time also -injured the common road, rendering it impassable in -places.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Before leaving the City of San Paulo, where I have -spent several pleasant weeks, I went over what is called -the House of Correction, but is in fact a criminal reformatory -for the Province and admirably managed. The -building is in a fine open space near the railway -station, enclosed on a large square plot of ground, surrounded -by high walls, inside which are gardens beautifully -laid out, and kept in order by the inmates. The -main portion of the building converges into a central -point by means of arched roofs, lighted from the top, -the cells abutting on the corridors which lead thereto. -Here there is also a circular raised stone altar, on which -mass is performed, and heard in all the cells through an -open iron grating with which each is provided. The -workshops are apart, leading off the garden, and consist -of various trades suited to the acquirements of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>criminals; there being also a school, where they are -taught to read and write. They come to these workshops -from the main building in groups, each individual -having a mark or number to distinguish him by, and -they are accompanied by a guard. The workshops have -doors with open gratings, but secured by a strong lock -and key, a sentinel doing duty during the time the men -are occupied at labour, with a time master seated in a -kind of elevated pulpit to see that the work allotted to -every individual be properly done. In approaching or -leaving the workshops the men all walk with folded -arms, and the whole being on the silent system of -punishment, no one is allowed to speak, except, I conclude, -when some question has to be asked through the -warder or other officer of the establishment, the discipline -of which is admirably maintained. The inmates -are about 120 in number, most of them convicted of -serious crimes; they have here a dejected look, but I -believe, on the whole, the system is found to be a very -efficacious one, and does really lead to reformation of -character. No female criminals are admitted, but I -understand a ward is to be built for them. We were -conducted over the establishment by the Governor, a -retired colonel in the army, accompanied by Senhor -Leite Moraes, a distinguished member of the Provincial -Assembly. Much attention was shown us, and some -refreshment was provided for us in the Governor's -room. Near to the reformatory, abutting on the railway -station, are the public gardens of San Paulo, on -which a good deal of money has been spent. They are -well laid-out, but not kept in order, one of the chronic -defects of these kind of places in South America -generally.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span> - <h2 class='c005'>SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>We finally left San Paulo after a very agreeable visit, -on the 25th of March, by the 9.30 train for Santos, with -a tolerable number of passengers, and some friends who -kindly accompanied us on our journey. Between San -Paulo and San Bernardo station, a distance of about -ten miles, the road is tolerably level, and the country -more or less open, though uncultivated save in small -plots. At this station I got upon the engine with Mr. -Fox, and came upon sharp curves and many cuttings -until we reached Rio Grande Station, after which, for a -distance of seven miles, the works are very heavy, some -of the inclines being one in fifty and one in sixty. -Nothing near but dense forests, without a human habitation -to be seen. Approaching the top of the Serra, -it appeared completely shut in by the range of mountains -in front of us, the road winding and twisting till -we suddenly reached the small platform, whence the -descent of the mountain begins, and a glorious prospect -opens out of the valley below, with the sea in the distance; -yet not without a vague feeling of anxiety as to -the novel position in which we find ourselves placed. I -was allowed to ride on the break again, and it is -certainly a wonderful sight, whilst being slowly let -down the lifts which I have before described. The day -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>was light and the atmosphere clear, the light and shade -on the dense mass of foliage with which the mountains -are clothed appearing to great advantage, like a huge -carpet spread over the face of nature. It is decidedly -worth a visit from Europe to go over the railway, and -few can help wondering how it was ever made, under -what must have appeared almost insurmountable difficulties -in such a country and such a climate; the -pioneers obliged to live in the forests and often short of -the necessaries of life. Without traversing the line it -is impossible to form any idea of the magnitude of -the undertaking, or how the boilers and machinery -for the stationary engines were dragged up the mountains, -almost without a track, much less a road, -for a total height of 2,600 feet above the level of -the sea. The Paulistos ought to be proud of -their railway, and Englishmen of the skill and endurance -of their countrymen in making it; at the same time, it -cannot be denied that many errors of construction have -been committed, and even at the present moment the -working power of the line is crippled for want of locomotives, -besides which those on the metals are not -adapted to it, as I have previously explained. Red-tapery -and official conceit have produced the same result here -as in other places, to give way eventually to a practical -common sense view of things; not without entailing, -however, losses upon the unfortunate shareholders. -The line being again open throughout, a considerable -arrear of traffic is waiting to come down from Jundiahy, -which will severely tax the insufficient rolling stock and -locomotive power at the disposal of the manager; -but at all events it is satisfactory to know that the -traffic is likely to be a steady one, with a considerable -future prospect when once its requirements are fairly -met by the company.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>We reached the foot of the Serra before noon, and at -one o'clock we were at Santos station, the whole distance -from San Paulo to Santos being 48⅞ miles; rather a long -time on the way, but the Serra itself takes an hour, and -there are several stoppages at the stations. Some time -is also occupied in waiting at the foot of the Serra for -the second portion of the train (it is divided into three -carriages each lift) to come down and join before proceeding -forward. This process of course takes place -both ways. Contrast this system, however, with that -of pack mules, and what an immense stride does it -represent in the means of transit and communication.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Santos was cooler than when we went there before, and -the day was fine and bright. The steamer did not sail -until four o'clock, so we strolled about and got some -dinner. The departure was punctual, and sailing down -the river to the bar the surrounding scenery, tinged -by the glowing afternoon sun, gave everything a very -cheerful, though grandly picturesque aspect. The -friends who had kindly accompanied us from San Paulo -here left us in a boat, to land at the bar, which is a -favourite watering place, and where many nice cottages -are built. We steamed on, passed the small fort, and -were soon in the open Atlantic, the boat dancing -about more than was agreeable to some of the passengers, -who soon disappeared below. The Santa Maria is a powerful -boat, steaming her twelve knots an hour, with very -good accommodation; but the wind and sea being against -us, we did not get into Rio harbour before noon the next -day, taking 20 hours for a distance of about 180 miles.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span> - <h2 class='c005'>TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA.—THE DOM PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILWAY.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>To estimate the resources of a country with such an -enormous extent of territory as Brazil by the quantity -of cotton, sugar, coffee, or other products she actually -exports, or by the extent of the towns and cities on her -seaboard, would be to form a very inadequate idea of -what those resources are capable of becoming by means -of imported labour, the extension of railways, and other -transport facilities in the shape of good roads. Even -with the present limited population, railways are calculated -to swell enormously the amount of Brazilian productions, -as they naturally lead to the opening out of -other modes of intercommunication, and draw towards -them subsidiary streams of traffic, which have hitherto -been unable to find a vent. It is only when a railway -penetrates the primeval forests, and goes into the heart -of a country, that an adequate idea can be formed of -what it is capable of being made, or that the state of -existing cultivation can be seen under all the drawbacks -arising from the want of labour, added to the difficult -and expensive means of transport. This has been very -clearly shown in the case of the San Paulo Railway, -which, with the proposed extension to Campinas, will -reach at once the great producing districts, and enable -the cultivators of them to make their calculations to a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>nicety as to the cost of laying down their coffee or cotton -at the port of Santos, and whether or not it can -repay them to extend their production with the means -at present under their command. The result will doubtless -be a very large addition to the exports from Santos.</p> - -<p class='c000'>But to return to the Dom Pedro II. Railway. On -the day previous to my leaving Rio, I had made the -acquaintance, through the introduction of a friend at -home, of Dr. Gunning, who, I found to my surprise, -lived some fifty miles up the line, and he very kindly -invited me to remain the night with them, instead of -going on direct to Entre Rios. Accordingly at noon -the next day, (the 4th April), we started by a train -that only runs at that hour on Saturday, the ordinary -ones being at 5 a.m., which involves getting up in the -middle of the night to those who are any distance from -the station. The train was a very full one, and I had -to be content with a seat on my own portmanteau at -the beginning of my journey, the carriage being open, -and built in the American style, with sofas and chairs -round the sides. The station is large and commodious, -with plenty of sheds and warehouses for receiving produce. -The pace was pretty good; the train passing -the suburbs of the city, then the <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">abatoirs</span>, where cattle -are slaughtered, with hundreds of the large black -vultures hovering about; afterwards going through the -Emperor's grounds and not far from his palace. Many -fine country houses are near the line, which become -fewer in number until we reach the first station called -Sapepomba, at a short distance from which is a fine -estate belonging; to the Baron de Mauá, whose name is -a household word in Brazil. This estate is worked by -an American, who married an adopted daughter of the -Baron, and has now a very large tract of sugar cane -<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>under cultivation. It presents in other respects all the -evidence of good management. The public road runs -close to the station. We proceed through lowlands, -with cattle grazing on some of them, until we reached -the station of Machabamba, in the neighbourhood of -which the Baron de Bomfim has also a large sugar -estate as well as ground for grazing cattle. At this -station, as at most others, were so-called hotels, where -eating and drinking is carried on much after the fashion -in other countries, and a number of passengers got out -apparently to spend the Sunday in the country.</p> - -<p class='c000'>After traversing some fine open country, bounded by -mountains on all sides, we crossed what is called the -dismal swamp, where so many people lost their lives -during the construction of the line; this part of the -line reminded one of the swamps about which so much -has been written in connection with the Panama Railway. -The next station we came to was that of Belem, -an important place at the foot of the great mountain -rise. I may perhaps observe that many plots of land, -after we left the suburbs of Rio, were cultivated with -mandioca, the great staple article of food in this country, -and doubtless much of what is now a waste will soon -be brought into requisition for the production of this -commodity. At Belem there was a good display of -refreshment, substantial and light creature comforts -evidently being appreciated by the Brazilians; oranges, -figs, and sweets of various kinds were brought also to -the carriage doors. Here we exchanged the ordinary -English locomotive for one of the powerful American -description, calculated to mount the hills, which we -began to ascend immediately after leaving Belem -station, and here commences the really interesting -feature of the works. The American “horse,” as it is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>termed, began snorting, the whistle making a frightfully -loud noise,—a sort of steam gong, which can be heard -at a very great distance. The train now twists and -turns round the sharp curves, the scenery becomes -grand and imposing as we go up, and at one point, after -proceeding eight or ten miles through a succession of -tunnels and embankments, a stone could be thrown -across the ridge to the place we left. The views of the -valleys, with the spurs of the hills planted with coffee -and Indian corn, are very pretty, and one is called -Paraiso, or paradise, though I think that title might be -much more appropriately applied to the valley opposite -Dr. Gunning's house, which is called the Valley of -Monkeys, I suppose because many exist in the woods -there. The elevation attained on reaching Dr. Gunning's -station was upwards of 1,300 feet, in about -2½ hours from Rio, and here I was persuaded to rest -over Sunday, resuming my journey by rail on Monday -morning.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Dr. Gunning's little colony, for it quite amounts to -that, took me quite by surprise, as I was utterly ignorant -of its existence. As I said before, the valley -which it overlooks might justly be termed that of -Paraiso, instead of the other we passed in ascending the -mountains. It takes a range of some 20 to 30 miles, -with a series of hills or spurs rising from it, backed by -the mountains which tower over Rio de Janeiro. The -house is built on the foreground, with an extensive balcony -in front, where you sit in a rocking chair in a state -of quiet ecstacy and wonder how such an enchanting -spot can be so little known in a great city comparatively -so near to it. From the balcony you can see the trains -moving upwards, popping now and again into the -numerous tunnels, there being no less than thirteen -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>between the house and the foot of the mountain and -sixteen or seventeen over the whole line. The Doctor -has constructed two or three neat cottages on his land, -and there is also within hail a charming one erected by -Mr. Gotto when he was out here as Engineer of the -Rio Improvements Company. It is situated at a point -which also commands a fine view of the noble valley, -and is at present occupied by an American merchant. -The Doctor is about to build other cottages on his land, -and is laying out the site for a hotel, which ought to be -very attractive to Rio residents in search of fresh air -and renovated health. It is difficult to conceive a more -lovely situation, or one surrounded by more attractive -scenery. Before dinner we took a walk in the fine -shady woods below the house, and at night enjoyed the -effect of a splendid moon from a balcony where the scene -in Romeo and Julliet might be admirably enacted, a -place of all others adapted for the interchange of “lovers' -vows.” We were, however, a very sober-minded, but -pleasant party, and enjoyed ourselves with “sweethearts -and wives” over a glass of toddy. On Sunday morning I -rose early to look at one of the greatest natural -curiosities it is possible to conceive. A light vapoury -mist, “white as the driven snow,” covered the entire -valley; with here and there the tops of hills appearing -like islands in a sea; indeed, one could hardly believe -that what one saw was simply mist, and not something -more tangible and substantial. This gradually disappeared -as the sun topped the heights, and then all -became bright and verdant as on the previous day. -Residents in the valley feel wrapt in a kind of shroud -whilst the mist is over them, but no evil effects appear -to result from it. An American missionary, Mr. Blackford, -who was for some time stationed at the city of San -<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>Paulo, and was, with his wife, a guest of Dr. Gunning, -read a portion of the Church Service in Portuguese and -preached a sermon in the same language to the household -and a number of people employed about the place, -after which we wandered about, dined, and enjoyed -another quiet moonlight evening looking over the happy -valley. There is quite a little society of Americans -residing about here, which renders it anything but a -solitude.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I left this hospitable retreat on Monday, by the train -which passes at 8 a.m., and continued to find a series -of wonderful curves and tunnels until we reached the -station of Barra, where a good comfortable breakfast -was waiting for such passengers as chose to avail -of it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I was joined by the son of Mr. Ellison, head engineer -of the line, who is making a branch near Disengano -station, in the direction of San Paulo, with which it is -eventually intended to connect this province. He made -himself very agreeable, and gave me much valuable -information.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I should not omit to allude to the really beautiful -scenery passed through between Entre Rios and Barra, -where the passengers breakfasted. I walked to look -at a very handsome bridge erected over the River -Parahyba, which becomes here a considerable stream, -running the whole distance to Entre Rios, where it -meets the Parahybuna, which comes down from Minas -Geraes, the latter emptying itself into the sea at San -Joao de Barra, after passing the important town of -Campos.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The railway, which is here 122 miles in length from -Rio de Janeiro, is to be extended to another point on -the Parahyba called Porto da Cunha, making a total -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>distance of about 160 miles, the latter portion tapping -valuable sources of traffic, as the river is only navigable -a short way from its mouth. Besides its 16 tunnels, -small and great, the railway is crossed by several handsome -bridges, first to one bank of the river and then -the other, as the gradients were found favourable, and -there is one very fine station, called Disengano, a portion -of the cost of which was contributed by the -Marqueza de Bependi, who has a magnificent fazenda -near to it, and numerous large picturesque <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">fazendas</span> are -seen at different bends of the river, which rolls along -in its rocky bed, with a succession of small rapids, the -hills above it being covered with coffee, Indian corn, -and mandioca, all now ripe. Where this cultivation -does not exist either virgin forests or cattle grazing -form the variety, and the former still occupy a large -portion of the country we passed through, particularly -between Uba station and that of Parahyba do Sul. I -am told that Vassoura, a city about seven miles from -the station of that name, is prettily situated and interesting, -but of course it is impossible to see everything in -so extraordinary a range of country.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We reached Entre Rios station before noon, and -found the stage coach waiting; also a tolerable dinner, -which the flies tried to participate in, being only held -in check by boys with large feather fans. The place, I -believe, is infested by flies from the number of mules kept -there; but the company is improving and extending the -accommodation for passengers, the head station being -800 feet in length. The guard of the “Mazeppa” -summons the passengers, and away we started with four -good mules, amidst dust and bustle, by a regular stage -coach of the old English type, the first stage being -along the banks of the Rio Preto, coming down from -<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>the mines. The road was all that had been described -to me and more; a perfectly good, smooth, macadamised -one, fenced in with groups of bamboo on the river side -and aloes on the other, along which we drove at the -rate of nine to ten miles an hour. I was inside at -starting, but some passengers left at the second station, -Parahybuna, when I mounted on the front seat for the -remainder of the journey, and enjoyed as fine a ride, for -good travelling and good scenery, as it is possible to -conceive.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The road belongs to a Brazilian company called the -“Uniao e Industria,” started some few years back, and -now carrying on a large and profitable traffic, chiefly in -merchandise; but the stage coaches are a very important -feature as regards accommodation for the public. -The stations where they change mules are large and -commodious, with warehouses for receiving produce, -and that of Parahybuna is in a most picturesque situation, -a huge granite mountain on one side and in front -of the river, which rushes down over rocks, forming -cascades here and there, with a long bridge which we -had to cross. A good many dwelling houses are built -about these stations, belonging, I conclude, to people -connected with the road. Our next station was Simon -Pereira, about which there is a good deal of woodland -scenery, reminding one of parts of Wales, with the road -winding in and out round the hills; and on this stage -is a very fine fazenda known by the name of Solidade, -the property of the Baron Bertiago, comprising, I am -told, an immense district. Here we again come upon -the mountain stream, which runs through the valley, -always forming a rapid current as we keep ascending.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The next stage was Barboza, where we came up with -another diligence, also from Petropolis, with a party, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>having a band of music outside, and Portuguese and -Brazilian flags flying. They kept ahead of us, but at -the last stage, Ponto Americano, a most romantic spot, -we started almost together, our companion still keeping -the lead, at a strong gallop, which our coachman imitated, -and it was anything but an agreeable race into -Juiz de Fora, to say nothing of the dust we had to take -up in the wake of the front diligence. Nothing could -be more beautiful than the scenery for the last stages, -coffee and Indian corn plantations succeeded each other, -mingled with virgin forests, grazing ground, waterfalls -in the distance, entire trees covered with purple and -yellow flowers, a perfect galaxy of tropical vegetation -in its most attractive forms. The evening was -pleasantly cool,—so cool as to cause one to button up -his coat, and there was a sensation of freshness in the -air like that of an autumn evening at home.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As the two coaches approached Juiz de Fora a large -number of its residents turned out to see the arrival, -which I believe was that of some new settlers, who -must have been gratified with their reception. We -drove on to the coach station, where I found that the -gentleman I was anxious to see had gone to his fazenda -that morning, some leagues distant; so I determined -to await his return and went to a small hotel close to, -called the “Union,” where I made myself as comfortable -as the limited accommodation would permit.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/illus_fp094.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>Residence of Senhor Lage.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>Juiz de Fora is pleasantly situated on an elevated -plateau, some 2,600 feet above the level of the sea, with -a background of fine cultivated hills and a very picturesque -waterfall. The originator and director of the -flourishing company “Uniao e Industria” has built a -magnificent house on an elevated spot which overlooks -the whole valley, and his grounds are beautifully laid -out with every species of tree to be found in Brazil, as -well as those brought from other countries. There are -ornamental waters, with swans, rare specimens of water -fowl, and numbers of valuable birds, fowls, monkeys,—in -fact, a little Zoological Garden of itself. Everything -in the establishment was in keeping, evincing the good -taste of the owner and the liberal manner in which he -expends his large fortune. I had also the opportunity -of going over a new building called the School of Agriculture, -where modern agricultural implements are to -be collected, as well as samples of live stock to improve -the breed of cattle. There is a capital English stallion, -two years old, descended from the celebrated Stockwell, -brought out from England at great expense; another -one of Norman breed, besides brood mares, bulls, -Alderney cows—in short, the nucleus of a respectable -cattle show, which it is intended to become, and the -Emperor has announced his intention to visit the place -in June next, though it will take some time to make it -complete and in a state of efficiency. An intelligent -Swiss gentleman presides over the School of Agriculture, -and an English groom is very proud, as he may -well be, of the silky coat and the healthy appearance of -the descendant of Stockwell.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There is a nice little German colony at Juiz de Fora, -mostly artisans in the company's employ, who live in -very snug cottages, with little gardens attached to them, -the women keeping cows, selling milk, &c. A death -had occurred the day I was there, and the funeral was -attended by all the elders of the colony, men and -women, dressed in their best clothes, forming a very -interesting group. The company employ some 3,000 -mules in the traffic of their line, the breakers of them, -as well as the coach drivers, being Germans. Mr. Treloar, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>jun., arrived from Rio with his wife and family during -my stay here, leaving the next day with a large troop -of mules, on a seven days' journey up to the mines.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Having seen all of interest in Juiz de Fora, I started -on Thursday, the 9th of April, to return to Entre Rios, -and thence on by the same “Uniao e Industria” road to -Petropolis, a total distance of about 107 miles. I found -the second half of the road as interesting as the first half -I had gone over—all in the same perfect state, some parts -between Entre Rios and Petropolis passing through -splendid mountain scenery. Near Entre Rios the river -is crossed by a very fine iron bridge. We reached -Petropolis at dusk, amidst a shower of rain, the first I -had met with on the whole journey, during which the -weather was remarkably fine and cool in the higher -ranges of the road, though hot and dusty on the level -parts. For nearly the whole fifty miles the road winds -by the bed of a rapid mountain stream, descending from -the mountainous district about Petropolis, going to -swell the river of which it is the source, forming a -succession of cascades, the noise of whose waters makes -“music to the ear,” enhancing the grandeur of the -scenery through which it passes as well as cooling the -atmosphere.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I should not neglect to mention the extensive cart -traffic over the road, which constitutes the real income -of the company, and has enabled it to pay the large -dividend of 10 to 14 per cent. These carts are all -of one pattern, with names and numbers on them, drawn -generally by five mules, with a spare one attached. We -were constantly meeting them going up and down, and -whether they have got more into the way of it, or the -mules are now better trained, we met with no such inconveniences -as Mr. Hinchcliffe describes in his book, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>though the windings and turnings of the road are often -of such a nature as to require a “bright look out,” and -the use of a shrill whistle—the horn being only sounded -on approaching the end of the journey. By means of -the rail and coach, Rio morning papers are delivered at -Juiz de Fora, a distance of 170 miles by rail and road, -the same evening. Formerly it required a week to -communicate between the two places. A large quantity -of stone is collected along the road to keep it in order, -and at certain distances are men breaking them in the -most old fashioned manner possible. They are chiefly -Portuguese immigrants.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I had not been at Petropolis for twenty years, during -which time there has been a large increase of building -and population, but I was sorry to learn that this prosperity -is likely to be evanescent, in consequence of the -soil suitable for cultivation by the German colonists -being worn out, and still more by the Dom Pedro -II. Railway turning the stream of traffic, which previously -to its opening to Entre Rios had continued to -flow from the mines through Petropolis and down the -splendid mountain road, conveying goods and passengers -to the Mauá Railway, and thence by steamer to Rio. -Of course, the railway from Entre Rios to Rio de -Janeiro, though longer as regards mileage, is quicker -and more direct, with a saving in expense to travellers, -even if produce and merchandise were conveyed at equal -rates by the two roads, but it must be the interest of -the country to keep both the roads open, as, in the case -of accidental stoppage, the Petropolis one is always -available. It is not unlikely that terms will be come to -by the two companies so as to prevent injurious competition, -as the country has had to pay large sums of money -for the installation and maintenance of both roads.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>I remained over Sunday at Petropolis, but it turned -out a very wet day, and I was not able to go about -much, or to take advantage of the splendid view there -is from the top of the mountain down to the Bay of -Rio de Janeiro. We started at 6.30 on Monday morning -in a carriage with four mules, and descended amidst -heavy rain and a dense mist, so that none of the beauties -of the locality were visible. At the foot of the Serra, -the railway train was waiting, and we soon reached the -place of embarkation by steamer, arriving at Rio about -10.30, after a week's absence, during which I have -acquired a better knowledge of the progress and resources -of this part of the country than any other means -of information could have supplied. As regards the -great internal road on which I have dwelt so much, it -is decidedly one of the marvels of Brazil.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span> - <h2 class='c005'>RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE.</h2> -</div> -<h3 class='c015'>SECOND TRIP.</h3> - -<p class='c016'>On my return to Rio on Saturday, the 11th of April -I found the City of Brussels had arrived after a very -quick passage from Falmouth of twenty days, and she -was leaving next morning (Sunday) for the River; so -I resolved to go by her and complete my visit, which -had been so recently unfortunately interrupted. A -difficulty occurred, owing to the police requiring me to -give three days' notice in the public papers of my intention -to leave, and they refused to <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">visa</span></i> the passport I -brought with me, though it had already served on other -similar occasions. The only way to get over the obstacle -was to take a surety to the police office, who would be -responsible for any debts I might have contracted, and -after driving backwards and forwards for some hours, -at considerable trouble and expense, this requirement -was satisfied. This absurd and vexatious system of -passports is one of the old relics of barbarism which -Brazil ought to do away with, and the sooner the better; -nor is it any protection against roguery, as every one -knows how easily such regulations are evaded in the -latter case. Countries like Brazil ought to be as free as -the air, and all possible facility given to travellers who -only come for information or amusement, and have no -<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>business relations. Passports do not exist in the Great -Republic of the North, and France has abolished them, -so let us hope Brazil will follow in the wake, and evince -equal liberality in dealing with passengers' luggage.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We were to leave at 8 a.m. on Sunday, but were -detained for dispatches until ten, and finally passed the -fort at 11 a.m., with a light wind but much swell, indicating -a southerly wind, of which we got the benefit -the next day. I may mention that the City of Brussels -is a splendid new steamer of Tait's line, and made the -first departure under their contract with the Belgian -Government. At Antwerp a grand entertainment had -been given to the authorities on the day of her departure, -and on Saturday a party was entertained on board at -Rio.</p> - -<p class='c000'>After encountering rather a strong southerly gale, -we made the River on Thursday night, and came to an -anchor off Monte Video early on Friday, the passage -having been run in five days. It blew so hard, with so -much swell on, that it was some time before we got on -shore, on reaching which I went to my old quarters at -the Gran Hotel Americano, meeting several old friends -there. The aspect of Monte Video was greatly changed -for the better since my last visit, when the cholera was -making such fearful ravages and an air of activity pervaded -the place, notwithstanding the sad tragedy which -had occurred in the assassination of General Flores. -Rumours of political troubles still prevailed, but there -was nothing on the surface to indicate them, and the -nightly gathering on the Plaza to hear the band had -been resumed, although for some time after the murder -of the President the Plaza was held by troops and guns -planted at the corner of it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A visit to Buchentall's quinta occupied the greater -<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>part of one day, and a delightful place it is, enclosed in -spacious grounds, provided with choice trees, beautiful -exotics, a large conservatory, and other glass houses; -in fact, with everything which a cultivated taste can -devise. There is a large kitchen garden attached, and -quite a plantation of pear trees, loaded with splendid -pears, for which Monte Video is famous. The stables -and farm buildings are extensive, and, like the house, -they are in the Swiss cottage style; they are tenanted -by fine horses, valuable cows, and other descriptions of -cattle. Everything is in perfect order. The view from -the upper ground, at the back of the house, is very fine—the -city, the harbour filled with shipping, and the -mounts at its entrance, the waters of the La Plata -glistening beyond in the sunlight. It is a bright, -beautiful day, and certainly at this season the climate is -very agreeable, so different from the intense heat experienced -in the month of January. After leaving the -quinta, we extended our drive, passing by many pretty -country houses, some of peculiar but tasteful architecture, -and stopped at a house on the road side, kept by -a Frenchman, where we got an excellent cold luncheon -and drove back to the city.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Expecting the steamer to sail the same night, we embarked -before dark, but were disappointed, the cargo -not being all discharged. We did not get away until -next evening. Had we known this we might have seen -the races, which took place the following morning, to -see which I believe more than half the population turned -out, the Custom House and public buildings being -closed. South Americans are fond of excitement, though -horse-racing is comparatively a new amusement for them, -being chiefly got up by foreigners. Whilst at dinner on -Monday afternoon, the wind, which had been blowing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>moderately from the north, suddenly veered round to -the south, and soon after we left the harbour increased -to a pampero, causing a nasty cross sea and a very disagreeable -motion in the ship, which sent most of the -passengers to bed early. It is not a very pleasant -navigation in such weather, with banks lying in the -way, and shallow water in many places, and we were -glad when daylight came to find ourselves near the -outer roads of Buenos Ayres. This exposed roadstead, -having to lie so far from the shore, is a great drawback, -rendering the expense of discharging and loading very -heavy, but there is no help for it, nor any prospect of -improvement in this respect. They have very fine boats -and lighters, with first-rate boatmen, and, as a rule, accidents -are rare, unless when the fierce pamperos drive -everything before them.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This is my second visit to Buenos Ayres, after a lapse -of 15 years, and, although from the sea no remarkable -change appears to the eye, yet, after landing, the enormous -increase of the city soon becomes apparent, about -which I shall say more presently. The Mole and Custom -House were new to me, as also the landing pier for -boats—a very great convenience and improvement on -the old carts, into which you had to get from the boat. -The weather, which had been cool at Monte Video, became -positively cold here, cloaks and great coats being -the order of the day. It is now approaching the coldest -season of the year, with some sharp frost at night, which -has blackened the potatoes and other vegetables outside -the city; and the sunny side of the street is decidedly -preferable to the shady one, a very different state of -things to that which existed when I was at Monte Video, -in January, with the heat frequently above 90 degrees.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CITY OF BUENOS AYRES.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>It is not an easy task to describe the great changes that -have taken place in this city since my visit fourteen -years ago. At the same time they are so remarkable as -to require a special notice.</p> - -<p class='c000'>My views at that time were sanguine as to the progress -of these River Plate countries, but they have been -more than realised, notwithstanding political and other -drawbacks. Suffice it to say that Buenos Ayres has -nearly doubled in size since I was last here, and, although -no public census that I am aware of has ever been taken, -the population of the city and environs must almost have -augmented in the same ratio. The difficulties of the -roadstead remain, but a forest of masts, extending for -many miles in the outer and inner roads, together with -a considerable number of steamers (the latter particularly -in the inner roads) meets the eye, and two piers, -or moles, have been erected, one exclusively used for -Custom House purposes, the other for boats and passengers, -but a large portion of the traffic is still carried on -by the carts which go alongside the boats with cargo or -to take it away. Landing at the mole, a busy scene -presents itself in the conveyance of passengers' luggage, -which is taken charge of by the peons or porters, and -carried for examination to the little depot at the -entrance to the mole. Afterwards it is allowed to proceed -in carts or carriages to its destination.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>Being built in squares, the increase of the city is not -very apparent until you get fairly into it; but the -numerous two or three-storied houses, the large new -hotels, the fine shops and warehouses, and the great -movement in the street, all indicate a thriving place of -business, which Buenos Ayres unquestionably is. Most -of the streets running direct from the river are now -three miles in length, and they cover an equal breadth, -so it is easy to judge the extent of the ground covered; -besides which, very many handsome quintas, or country -houses, are to be seen in every direction outside the -city. The streets generally are badly paved, and make -very rough work for carts and carriages passing over -them, but these manage to get along with considerable -wear and tear of wheels and springs, as well as horses' -feet, which, however, appear to be quite a secondary -consideration. After the well-paved streets of Rio de -Janeiro, both Monte Video and Buenos Ayres cut a -very poor figure; but the worst feature is the absence -of sewerage, and the refuse of the town is at times very -offensive to the olfactory nerves, and destroys the -appellative “good airs,” which is otherwise a characteristic -of the place under ordinary circumstances, or as -nature intended it to be. The inhabitants seem to have -had a wretched municipal system; but for this there is no -reason why the city should not be well drained, well -paved, as well as properly lighted with gas, which -latter is now the case.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Strangers have a choice of really very large and commodious -hotels, and there are boarding and lodging -houses of various kinds, but at seasons accommodation -in them is very difficult to obtain, such is the constant -increase of demand by visitors as well as by permanent -residents; in fact, the requirements of the population -<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>are constantly overtaking the facilities of the city, and -there appears to be no reasonable limit to its extension -north, south, and west, the river facing eastward. The -chief increase, however, has been westward, or in a -straight line from the river frontage into the country. -Owing to the necessities of an augmenting population, -the price of building land in or near the city has been -driven up to a very high figure, and rents, as a matter -of course, are excessive. Increased population has been -followed by enhanced luxury, which manifests itself in -the style of architecture, in the splendid shops, in the -number of private carriages as well as those for hire, -but naturally this has been attended by an inflated expenditure. -Living in Buenos Ayres is now quite as -expensive as in London or Paris; perhaps more so as -regards luxuries, the import duties on which are very -heavy. Generally, Buenos Ayres is a dear place to -live in. Amongst other new buildings is the large -theatre called Colon, and a Music-hall, the latter erected -by private subscription. It is lofty and light, tastefully -decorated, and I believe very well filled when concerts -are held there, being also occasionally used for dinners.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The busiest part of the city, commercially speaking, -is down by the Custom House and on to the Boca, the -latter the rendezvous of lighters conveying produce to -the ships in the outer roads, as well as of small steamers -bound up river, and I understand that 300 lighters are -now engaged in this work, many of them of good -size and decked over. It is in contemplation to deepen -and enlarge the Riachuelo, as the stream alluded to is -called, and a most useful work it will be, as it is almost -the mainstay of the port. At the other extremity of -the city, which borders on the Northern Railway, washing -of clothes is carried on among the willow trees which -<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>border the river; it is quite a sight on a fine sunny day. -On the high ground about and beyond the Retiro, -numerous handsome villas have been erected and the -Retiro itself has been planted with trees, forming a -pleasant promenade. In addition to other improvements -and conveniences, omnibuses now ply from the -city in various directions, so that locomotion is greatly -facilitated, and people can live out of the city without -the trouble of keeping conveyances, if they object to -this, or have not the means to maintain them. Commerce -is extending rapidly, and the Custom House -revenue has doubled itself within a very few years.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span> - <h2 class='c005'>BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA.—ESTANZUELLA.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The invitation of Mr. William White to spend a few -days at his estancia took me over to Colonia, from which -it is distant about 15 miles, amidst the beautiful undulating -country of the Banda Oriental. Three to four -hours is the time usually occupied in crossing the river, -almost in a direct line from Buenos Ayres, and the -steamer in which I embarked had very comfortable -accommodation but few passengers on board. There -was a small boat in opposition to the one I was in, and -we arrived very close together.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Colonia is one of the oldest settlements in the River, -being built upon a peninsula jutting out into the stream, -with a snug little harbour, which is in course of improvement. -The town presents a dilapidated and -neglected appearance, which is accounted for by its -having, until recently, been fortified, and made the -head-quarters of different factions during the long civil -wars. There is a large church, with three high towers, -visible at a considerable distance, and a lighthouse for -the protection of vessels passing, as several low islands -are situated close to the harbour. Some good looking -houses have lately been erected, and the site of a new -town laid, but it will be many years before it is likely -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>to assume any importance. I noticed an old gateway, -with an inscription dated 1724 over it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I found Mr. White's carriage waiting for me at -Colonia. It was drawn by four horses, the road being -heavy for a few miles, but after that we got into a good -one,—a kind of beaten track over what is called the -campo, and for the first time I realised the pleasurable -feeling of travelling over a sea of land, if it can be so -named, where, excepting an occasional <i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">puesto</span></i>, or shepherd's -hut, not a human habitation is to be seen. The -undulations of the land are here very like the long roll -of the ocean, by which it is supposed to have been -formed, and you are at once in the midst of cattle, -horses, and sheep, with grass and thistles growing everywhere, -the thistles in many cases being masters of the -situation.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It was getting foggy before we reached Mr. White's -estancia, but the light of the moon assisted our course -across an apparently trackless country. I found Mr. -White's quinta a very pretty and comfortable residence, -surrounded by trees and evergreens, all of which have -been planted by the present owner. The whole place is -in fact the creation of some ten years, showing what -can be done in this country by a judicious application -of capital and labour. The house and estate cover a -space of some nine square miles, the former being built -on an elevated spot, called “Monte” (or the “Mount,”) -and occupying with grounds about 50 acres of good -rich soil, overlooking an amphitheatre of hill and dale, -which stretches as far as the eye can reach, with -“<span lang="es" xml:lang="es">puestos</span>” or shepherds' cottages at regular distances, -where the cattle and sheep are collected together at -dusk and let out again at daylight. This is a most -interesting process, which I have seen described, but it -can only be realised personally. It is something like -marshalling a scattered army and bringing them into a -given square. The shepherds or peons go galloping -about until the cattle and sheep are gathered together, -when they all, as by a kind of instinct, find their way -to the corral or fold. At dawn the following morning -they are let out again and roam for miles over the estate. -The arrangements at a good estancia like that of Mr. -White's are very complete, and every one understands -his work, but of course the eye of a master is required -to see that the work is properly done. The stock on -this estancia consists of about 30,000 sheep, upwards -of 1,000 head of cattle, and some 100 horses.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/illus_fp108.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p>Mr. White's House at Estanzuella.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>My first day was employed in visiting several of the -stations, and very agreeable it was cantering over the -springy turf, clothed with grass and thistles, where the -sheep and cattle were quietly feeding. Buttercups -glittered in the sunshine, but we missed the modest -daisies so familiar at home. We were on horseback -five hours, and I returned to dinner highly delighted -with all I had seen. The second day we took the -carriage and a gun, as partridges are plentiful and -innumerable flocks of doves. Paid a visit to the estancia -of Mr. Giffard, about six miles distant in a direct line, -but further by the course we had to take, partly over -the open campo. Returning we came close upon some -half-dozen ostriches and Mr. White shot at and -wounded a very fine male; but it was a painful sight -to see the struggles of the poor bird, and we were -obliged to get one of the men from a neighbouring -station to dispatch it with his knife. Many of these -noble birds are still to be met with in the campo, where -they are pursued by the natives for the value of the -feathers. I was presented with a portion of the feathers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>of the ostrich killed as described. The third day we -were again on horseback for several hours, with a boy -carrying a gun and some refreshment. We rode along -one of the running streams with which the campo is -favoured, to look for some ducks, but the streams were -very low, and we only succeeded in bagging one. These -streams are invaluable for cattle, and the Banda Oriental -in this respect is more fortunate than Buenos Ayres, -and in consequence suffers less from drought. Finding -game so scarce, the boy was sent home, and we cantered -on to visit some of the other stations I had not yet seen, -the weather throughout being beautifully fine, clear -sunshine, with a bracing and most exhilarating breeze.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There are some curious collections of rocks mostly -on the margins of the streams. Huge boulders, thrown -up it would seem by some convulsion of nature, and -between which trees and enormous cactuses have forced -their way, in cases even splitting the stone, especially -present a most singular appearance. About Mr. Giffard's -quinta there is quite a large formation of this kind, and -a collection of very fine ombu trees, several with -immense trunks and evidently of great age.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To-day, the last of my visit, has been spent in riding -about the quinta, watching the operation of lassoing and -bringing into the corral a refractory bull and cow that -had left their companions and roamed miles away. The -dexterity of the peons, and the way they manage their -horses on these occasions, is something wonderful, and -fairly exhausts the strength of the animals.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This is the finest season of the year in these countries, -and it is impossible to imagine anything more pleasing -or more cheerful than the present aspect of the campo. -The next two or three months constitute the winter -season, which is rainy and cold. September and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>October (their spring) are generally fine. The heat of -summer is, of course, considerable, but it is not so much -felt in the open country, where a fresh breeze, as a rule, -prevails; it is the towns that are most disagreeable at -that period.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To-morrow, I return to Colonia, highly gratified with -all I have observed, and with the kind hospitality I have -experienced. As I have said, partridges are abundant, -but they commonly go singly, and without a pointer -they are difficult to follow. Mr. White, however, shot -two brace close to his house, when we were walking out -before breakfast, and several single ones on other occasions. -They are prettily marked birds and delicate -eating. He did not happen to have a suitable dog by him -at the time. The shepherds all keep fine dogs, mostly -of the retriever breed, to assist them in managing their -flocks, and there were a good many attached to the -house and out-buildings; one of the former, a Scotch -terrier, and myself becoming very great friends.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span> - <h2 class='c005'>TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>I am writing this on board the “Lujan” steamer, built -in Buenos Ayres, with engines by a Glasgow house. She -is a comfortable boat, with good accommodation for -passengers, and the “vivers” excellent, including even -champagne at dinner, which in this country is rather an -expensive luxury. After a lapse of fifteen years I find -myself once more ascending the noble Parana river, -which at that time was almost unknown in Buenos -Ayres, the little “Argentine” being the first commercial -steamer that ever navigated its waters. I predicted the -results a few years would bring about, and my expectations -have been more than realised, the river being -now as freely navigated by steamers as some of those -in the United States, with the difference of course that -there is not the same amount of population on its banks—population -being still the great want of this boundless -region.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The station for passengers for the up-river boats is -now the terminus of the Northern Railway, at a small -stream called Tigre, which is reached in something over -an hour's time. We left the station at 10 a.m., and -arrived at the wharf alongside which the steamer lay at -11.30. All the passengers, with their luggage, were soon -on board, and we started, wending our way through the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>small branches of the Parana, in many places not wider -than a canal, the steamer brushing against the overhanging -trees. A couple of hours brought us at last -into the wide embouchure of the river at a point named -Palmas.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The advantage of the Tigre as a starting point for -steamers is that it avoids the disagreeable boating in the -roads of Buenos Ayres and crossing the bay for Martin -Garcia; in every way it is a desirable arrangement, alike -beneficial to the steamers and to the railway. Upwards -of a dozen steamers were laying outside the Tigre, in a -stream called Lujan (after which this boat is named), -two of them large double-decked Yankee river boats -and nearly all of them without occupation—a terrible -sacrifice of valuable property. Having discussed a solid -<i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">dejeuner à la fourchette</span></i>, I came on deck to enjoy the -scenery. It was blowing a fresh breeze, dead against -us, with a strong current and very cold, cloaks and -great coats being a necessity although the day was bright -and sunny. For several hours we steamed along, -passing only jungle and dense masses of trees, with -numerous sailing craft at anchor, laden with cargo, -many bound upwards, no doubt with stores for the army -in Paraguay.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Just before sunset we passed a very fine quinta, -belonging to the Minister of Education, Senor Costa, -built on a beautiful barranca, or elevated ground, a -short way from the river, the horsemen on the heights -presenting a very picturesque appearance.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Dinner was announced, which occupied fully an hour, -and afterwards I went on deck and enjoyed a night on -the noble Parana. The wind had gone down, and the -stars shed their light over the still water, on which the -shadow of the trees was reflected, our course being occasionally -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>close to them, though at times we had to take -the mid stream. Now and again the sky was lighted -up with fires, caused, I believe, by the burning of wood -for charcoal, a process which might go on for centuries -without exhausting the illimitable extent of wood. A -large traffic is carried on in this material by river craft -to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video. We stopped to -land passengers at a station called Hermanos, and soon -after passed two or three steamers at anchor, with some -sailing vessels near them, no doubt connected with the -war services. Our passengers are a motley group, -speaking all languages, and amusing themselves by -playing cards, chess, and dominoes, the while talking -and chattering away at the top of their voices; some -ladies amongst them as merry as the rest. Many -Italians, French, and Germans are met on board these -steamers, but comparatively few English, who remain -more in the cities and towns, or at their estancias when -resident in the country. After a fine, clear, starlight -night, the latter part aided by a bright moon, the day -broke grandly, and we soon came to anchor at the little -port of San Nicolas, where we landed and took in some -passengers. Then came a good, substantial breakfast, -and at about eleven o'clock the large saladeros near -Rosario were in sight. We brought up alongside a coal -hulk, where the steamer had to take in fuel before -returning to Buenos Ayres the same afternoon.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A number of sailing vessels and steamers were laying -at anchor at Rosario, making quite a busy scene. I -landed in a small punt to find my way to the house of -a friend. The aspect of Rosario was not much changed, -looking at it from the river, with the towers of the -church in the background, the town itself being more or -less concealed by the high barranca. On entering it, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>however, I was quite lost. Streets have been extended -in every direction for more than a mile, and I should -say it has doubled or trebled in size and population since -I was here. Whatever prejudicial effects the Paraguayan -war may have produced in other respects, there -can be no question that Rosario has largely benefitted, -the place being one of call for steamers and sailing -vessels up and down; and it also supplies a considerable -quantity of stores for the army. The value of land and -property has gone up to a high figure, and the poorer -portion of the population are obliged to squat wherever -they can find room to build a rancho, or kind of mud -hut. Gauchos galloping about in their picturesque -costume showed that we were in a new province, and -although civilisation has extended itself here somewhat -after the fashion of Buenos Ayres, there are evident -signs that it is intermingled with much of the wild -habits of a life in the Pampas.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The great object of my visit here was of course to -see the Central Argentine Railway, and certainly those -accustomed to the imposing appearance of railway -stations at home will hardly be impressed with the -rough and ready wildness of the scene which presents -itself here. A few disjointed wooden sheds in an open -plain, one side bordering on the river, some carriages -and covered waggons on the rails, at this time constitutes -the terminus of a line already carried 158 miles -into the interior; but all this is merely temporary and -will give place to the permanent station now in process -of formation, and upon which hundreds of labourers are -at present constantly at work. The material is all there -in readiness, and the station would have been much -further advanced had it not been for the cholera, which -caused such terrible devastations here a few months -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>ago. Internal commotions have also tended to retard -progress. Happily these scourges are for the time at -least passed away, and it is to be hoped nothing will -again interfere to prevent the completion of a line of -such vital interest in connection with the material -development of the country between Rosario and -Cordova.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I was curious to see the first arrival and starting of -the trains, which did not indicate much traffic; but this -can hardly be looked for until the metals are carried -through and the railway possesses all the needful appliances, -not to speak of the prejudices of a people who -have been accustomed to gallop over the wide plains -like the Arabs of old, and use those antique structures -drawn by bullocks, which are yet destined to be abandoned -to rot in their final resting place, or be removed -further west to bring traffic to the Cordova station. -Engineeringly speaking, it is the easiest possible task to -make a railway through such a country as this, but -other drawbacks and difficulties exist in the absence of -population and of conveniences to which we are accustomed -in England. It is a refreshing sight in Rosario -to see so large a mixture of the foreign element. New -banks and large establishments are in operation and -Estanceiros constantly coming into town to transact -their business. Among the visitors at Rosario are many -Englishmen from the districts round about, who have -not been murdered by the Indians, notwithstanding the -stories prevalent to that effect, and I hear of numerous -thriving colonies in the neighbourhood, which I regret -time will not permit my visiting, as the extent of my -ramble must now be confined to going over the railway. -I repeat that my impression as to the future of Rosario, -after all it has lately gone through, is favourable, and I -<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>am perfectly satisfied of the go-a-head nature of every -thing in this prosperous province.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The train for Rosario starts at 8 a.m., and is due at -Villa Nueva, a distance of 158 miles, at 6 p.m., travelling -at an average speed of nearly sixteen miles an hour, -including eight stoppages—quite sufficient for present -purposes, with a train composed of waggons and two -American passenger cars, one for first and the other for -second class. We got off a little after eight o'clock -with a good long train and the cars were pretty -well filled. For the first two or three stations the -ground is slightly undulating, covered with good pasture, -on which numerous herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and -horses were feeding; afterwards, or about half-way -between Rosario and Villa Nueva, there are few cattle -seen, though the food for them is there in any quantity. -At Roldan, the first station from Rosario, some tents -were erected, and horses collected, in course of training -for the races to be held on Monday next, the 25th of -May, at which there is generally a large gathering of -sporting characters from that and other districts, as also -of spectators from Rosario. It is an English club, with -the usual array of stewards, umpires, &c. The meeting -is expected to be a very good one. The next station is -Carcaranal, near which the river is crossed by a handsome -iron bridge, the river itself flowing for a very long -distance through the province of Cordova and Santa Fé, -ultimately merging its waters with those of the Parana. -These first two stations are mere mud huts, being only -temporary, but Carcaranal has the additional disadvantage -of being placed in the midst of a black, dismal, dry -lagoon, where a butcher's establishment is kept for -supplying a portion of the company's workmen on the -line with meat. The rancho, or station for the passengers, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>might as well be removed, however, a few -hundred yards further back, the engine going on to -get its supply of water at one of the tanks placed here, -instead of the olfactory nerves of the passengers being -exposed to an ordeal of no agreeable character. I -believe the nuisance is much complained of and will -soon be removed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The next station, Canada de Gomez, is a very -respectable brick-built one, well kept, where we found -some excellent partridges just cooked, which soon disappeared -amongst hungry passengers, who had not time -to breakfast before leaving, and there were also other -refreshments. About this and Tortugas station is some -very good land, and numerous English estancias in the -neighbourhood, which I am assured are in a thriving -condition, the aspect of the country being also more -cheerful. We saw the plough at work, and I believe -a large quantity of corn will soon be grown in this -district. Further on, about Leones station, the -country becomes more monotonous, one dead sea of -brown-looking grass, without cattle or any appearance -of cultivation, and not a shrub or tree to be seen. We -passed a long train of carts from Rosario, filled with -merchandise for distant places; also troops of laden -mules going in the same direction, as the facilities -offered by the railway are not yet sufficient to do away -with this cumbrous and expensive mode of transit. This, -however, is only a question of time. As we approached -Frayle Muerto station, trees began to appear, and we -passed through quite a forest, which was very pleasant -after the long stretch of land bare of shrub or tree. -The station at Frayle Muerto is a substantial brick -building, and will be very commodious when completed. -We had plenty of time to get some dinner here, and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>being rather behind, it was dark when we reached the -present terminus at Villa Nueva, where I was kindly -received by the manager, Mr. Lloyd, who gave me a -shake down for the night at his comfortable little -cottage close to the station. There I found a nephew -of Mr. Wheelright and Senor Don Gonzalez, late -Minister of Finance, with his family, waiting to proceed -to Cordova next morning. I was fortunate, too, in -having for fellow-travellers on the line Senor Moneta, -the Government engineer, and Senor Crisofuli, both -proceeding to Cordova on business connected with the -railway, so the journey passed very agreeably and was -anything but fatiguing for the distance. There is ample -room in the carriages, which also have the advantage of -enabling the passengers to go from one portion to the other -and conversing with acquaintances who may happen -to be there. This is much better than being stuck in a -close carriage without any chance of relief. Indeed, -I think for all South American railways the American -saloon carriages are the most suitable as well as the -most economical.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I was up early next morning to see the train start -at seven for Rosario, and diligences for Cordova, Rio -Cuarto, and other places. The last was a most comical -sight. The mode of conveyance has been frequently -described by travellers, so I will not enlarge on the -subject. The diligences remind me of the old French -<i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">malle poste</span></i>, only the gearing is all hide instead of rope, -and they are drawn by six horses, all mounted by peons, -with very long traces, each horse seemingly independent -of the others. The poor brutes, mostly with sore backs, -are first driven into a corral close to the diligence -station, where they are lassoed one by one, a halter -thrown over their necks, and then taken to be saddled. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>The diligence station is a very busy place at this time, -several starting at the same time for Cordova and other -distant places; there are also private carriages, and all -goes to show how extensive the passenger traffic will -be when the line is open to Cordova. The time occupied -in this latter part of the route is so long that a -large supply of vehicles is required, as well as horses, -but the latter may be had almost for the catching; at -all events their cost is very trifling. After seeing the -start, I went over the railway station works, and found -evident signs of considerable traffic, even with an unfinished -line. A large space of ground adjoining the -station was filled with bullock waggons, some discharging -cargo into railway waggons, while carts conveyed -merchandise brought up by train from Rosario to other -bullock waggons at a short distance, as there was no -space for them about the station, where a large commodious -brick warehouse has been built and works on -a large scale are in course of erection, which will greatly -facilitate the traffic now carried on. In fact, all was -bustle and traffic under difficulties. Amongst the produce -brought down was wool in bales, dry hides, wheat, -large bars of copper, fruit, and other articles, not even -omitting fowls in large coops, which had been brought -all the way from Cordova.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The day was very fine and sunny, and after breakfast -I accompanied Mr. Lloyd on horseback to visit a -large forest and lake two or three leagues distant from -the station. Here the wood used for locomotives is -cut. It is found to answer better than coal, and is of -course much cheaper. We passed over the newly laid -rails and earthworks intended for a continuation of the -line, along which piles of cut wood, extending at least a -quarter of a mile, were laid, as well as a large quantity -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>of wooden sleepers of excellent quality, to be used, I -believe, between this and Cordova. We then struck -across the campo to the forest, soon after entering -which we came upon one of the most picturesque lakes -I remember to have seen. We rode along the margin, -which is chiefly sand, seeing numbers of wild fowl and -black-necked swans. The water was beautifully clear. -There are numbers of otters here, and at the upper end -are immense rushes, which are gathered for roofing the -ranchos built for the company's peons. We then struck -into the forest again, and with some difficulty worked -our way through it, the lining of my coat being torn off, -as I was hardly got up for such an expedition. The -forest is partly the property of the railway and of one -of the religious establishments at Cordova, and it is -capable of supplying sleepers to make the line to that -city, as well as to supply fuel for the locomotives for -years to come. The railway has quite a little colony -here cutting wood, which is conveyed to a small steam -saw mill on the line, and dealt with most expeditiously -there.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On our way home we visited the company's farm, -where the plough was at work, turning up a rich loamy -soil, and next year it is expected a good crop of wheat will -be taken, besides potatoes, Indian corn, grass for the -horses, &c. In short, it will soon become a very productive -farm, being also completely fenced in so as to -keep out cattle. The plough was being driven by a -young Somersetshire man, who evidently understood -his work.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At length we finished our tour of inspection of about -twenty miles very much pleased and gratified with what -I had seen, and much impressed with the important -future that awaits the landed property of the company, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>in addition to the line becoming a great main trunk -one across this part of South America. Seeing is -believing, and if shareholders who are sceptical as to the -future could take a trip out here to satisfy themselves, -they would be quite re-assured on this point. Many -doubts have been thrown upon the enterprise, which I -have never entertained, from my previous knowledge -of the country, and my confidence is much increased by -a personal inspection of the line itself and the traffic -which evidently exists ready to come on the metals -when proper provision is made for it. The company -are about laying down the telegraph wires, which will -be a great advantage and prevent accidents, besides -establishing a valuable means of communication and -saving much time. Indeed, no line can be efficient -without it. I return to Rosario to-morrow, having -only a few days to spare before embarking for England; -otherwise I should have gone on to Cordova and -spent some time in this interesting region, whose only -want is population to render it one of the most productive -of the globe.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When I made a hasty visit to Rosario in 1853 I -formed a very strong opinion of its future importance -from the position it occupied in connection with the -river navigation and the traffic of the Western provinces; -but the establishment of the Central Argentine -Railway has immensely added to the other advantages -of Rosario, and accounts for the great increase that has -recently taken place in building and population. Thus -far, however, the benefit is in a great measure prospective, -the railway being still incomplete. Nevertheless, -there can be little doubt that the sanguine views of -speculators on the future will be realised so soon as the -line is finished.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>It is only in traversing the streets that one becomes -aware of the great extent of the town, which is built in -squares after the usual manner in this country. Several -commercial establishments, some banks, and many really -good shops now exist, and there is difficulty, I am informed, -in finding house room for the numerous settlers -in the town. I was surprised to find so large a number -of <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">cafés</span> crowded at night by all classes, and there is -also a little theatre, where, in the absence of regular -performances, masked balls are frequently held. These -are not of the most edifying description, but the people -will amuse themselves in some way, and better this than -political conspiracies, of which Rosario has often been -the scene.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As I have before said the port presents quite a busy -appearance; but there are no facilities in the way of -wharves and landing places, which would be a vast -convenience to traffic, as everything has now to be done -by boats. Some gas works are in course of erection, -on the river side, but owing to bad foundations or want -of care the chimney fell down and only the skeleton -walls appear. It will be a great blessing to the town -and suburbs when they are lighted with gas, as on dark -nights perambulation is difficult even with the aid of -the miserable oil lamps at present in use. There is an -American Missionary Chapel near the railway station, -and recently the nucleus of an English Protestant Congregation -has been formed under the auspices of the -Rev. Mr. Combe, appointed by the South American -Missionary Society. Service is just now performed in -a room, but efforts are being made to build a chapel, as -the number of English residents continues to increase. -Mr. Combe also holds service at Frayle Muerto, where -<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>some sixty Englishmen reside on farms within a few -leagues of each other.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I had occasion to visit the Protestant burial ground -at Rosario to attend the funeral of a young Englishman -who died under melancholy circumstances, and was -sorry to notice that it presented a very forlorn aspect -and was situated in a very inconvenient locality. Many -interments took place here during the cholera, which -was very fatal to foreigners as well as to the natives, -who were decimated, and the works of the railway were -also retarded by this terrible scourge.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Before closing my notice of the railway, I may add -that I had an opportunity, through the kindness of Mr. -Woods, the company's engineer, of inspecting the plans -of the new railway station, and of going over the ground, -which will be enclosed to the extent of 3,200 feet in -length, with a fine river frontage on the Parana, where -there is a depth of 18 to 20 feet of water close alongside. -This will be a great facility in dealing with the river -traffic. As regards the materials for the use of the -line, they have all been landed on their own wharf and -drawn up an incline, as the bank on which the station -stands is at a considerable elevation above the river. -Eventually, I believe, it is the intention of the company -to facilitate both their passenger and goods traffic by -means of landing wharves, which would be a great saving -of expense and time. One thing is very certain, -that the Rosario station will be the finest and most -complete in South America.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>I had a very pleasant excursion over the Western -Railway as far as Mercedes, in company with some -friends. Mr. Emilio Castro, Government Superintendent -of the railways in the province of Buenos Ayres, -to the Government of which this line belongs, accompanied -us, and he kindly provided a very luxurious -saloon carriage for the occasion. We left the Parque -station at 8 a.m., going over some curves of a formidable -nature, and along streets until we came to the company's -goods station and workshops. The latter are on a very -extensive scale. After this we got fairly on the main -line, which is single, except at certain stations where -the trains cross each other. How any engineer could -have been bold enough to construct such curves, or the -Government could allow locomotives to run through the -streets, it is difficult to conceive, as there must always -be much risk both to the train and to passengers. There -are also some heavy gradients before the goods station -is reached, which increases the danger, but people seem -to have become familiarised with it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>For the first twelve miles to Flores station the -country presents a succession of quintas, or country -houses, many large and picturesque, and Flores itself is -quite a large and extensive town, though merely a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>suburb of Buenos Ayres. The town is called San Jose -de Flores, and near it is a large Anglo-Argentine school, -where the train stops. Flores station is a very good -one, capable of being doubled, with a peculiar pattern -of light ornamental roofing inside. In the summer -season the traffic to and from Flores is very considerable, -and there is also a large resident population. After -leaving Flores, we got more into the open campo, with -plenty of cattle, sheep, and horses about, and numerous -farm buildings, until we reached Floreste station, close -to which is a large fanciful looking building, originally -intended, I believe, for a hotel, but it does not appear -to have been successful as a speculation. San Martin is -an important station, diligences and carriages being in -attendance to convey people to the neighbouring villages -of San Custo, Santa Lucia, and San Martin, one of -which was called Rozas' Saladero, from the number of -victims he is said to have sacrificed there at a prison -established for his political enemies. Near this station -are some fine, handsome quintas, belonging to the Madero -family, the country being well wooded, with many farms, -and the same features are observable as far as the Moron -station, near which the battle of Caceres was fought, -which decided the fate of Rozas. There is a theatre close -to this station, and Moron is quite a large town, having -grown up under the influence of the railway. A -public road runs in proximity to the line for a distance -of some fifteen miles, which is very objectionable, and -the rails might just as well have been laid a few squares -apart from it. After passing Moron we got more into -the open campo, with large flocks of sheep, droves of -cattle, and horses feeding all around, until we reached -the ancient Spanish town of Merlo, which has a church, -with a little steeple very like that of a village church -<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>at home. There is a nice looking two-storied house -there, built by Mr. Boyd, planted with trees, showing -they will grow well enough if people will take the -trouble to plant them, and I understand Mr. Boyd was -the first to introduce the gum tree, which now flourishes -in many gardens in the neighbourhood. A branch line -is shortly to be constructed from this place to Lobos, -some forty miles south-west, through, I am told, a very -rich part of the province, and from which district a large -traffic is expected. A river, called Las Conchas, runs -near Merlo, crossed by an iron bridge, the first I have -seen on the line, there being only open culverts where -the line crosses streams or watercourses. The next -station we came to was Moreno, a new town built since -the opening of the line. Midway between Moreno and -Lujan is a small station called General Rodriguez. Lujan -is one of the oldest towns in the province, a river of that -name running past it to the Parana, joining the little -stream of Tigre, the terminus of the Northern Railway, -whence passenger steamers go up to Rosario. There is -a large station and warehouse at Lujan, where a quantity -of wheat was being loaded into carts, to be ground in a -mill called the “Mill of the Virgins,” a name which I -conclude arises from an anecdote recorded as to the -formation of the town. A travelling expedition, it would -seem, while conveying an image of the Virgin, came to -a standstill here, nor could the animals be made to -proceed until the image was left on the spot. So it -remained, and to this day it is a place of great religious -festivities; and express trains are run from Buenos -Ayres on these occasions. Whatever may be the real -facts of the case, the Lujan Mills grind good flour. The -wheat is grown in Chivilcoy, the present terminus of -the Western line. It is small but hard. It was to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>Lujan that General Beresford sent a detachment in -1807, when the first attack was made on Buenos Ayres, -arising out of the war with Spain, and which was subsequently -renewed under such disastrous circumstances -by General Whitelock. I merely make this allusion to -show that at that time it was a town of some importance. -The little station of Oliveres comes next, but is -yet only in course of erection, in the midst of an -immense open campo, with large flocks of sheep and -plenty of cattle to be seen in all directions. A fine -stream of water crosses this part of the campo. The -thistles, about which we hear so much, abound in most -parts of the campo, but the dry season has kept them -down, and they do not rise much above the surface, nor -do they appear to prevent the growth of grass suitable -for sheep and cattle. No donkeys are seen in this -country to luxuriate on the abundance of thistles, and -very few mules, horses being generally used and very -badly treated. Their dead carcasses are frequently -encountered, as when “used-up,” they are turned adrift -to die in the campo. A few miles further brought us -to Mercedes, a town of some 12,000 inhabitants, the -terminus of the railway before it was lately opened to -Chivilcoy, an extension of forty miles, making a total -distance of 100 miles now open, and the number of -stations denotes the amount of traffic carried on by this -railway, for which it has a stock of 420 wagons and 20 -locomotives, besides passenger cars, chiefly the large -American description.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Western Railway was originally a small passenger -line to San Jose de Flores, but was afterwards continued -and opened by sections, the point for goods traffic only -commencing at the great open square called the 11th of -September, where the goods traffic in bullock carts has -<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>always been carried on. A large number of bullock -carts still find their way to that market.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We remained at Mercedes to enjoy an excellent lunch -provided for us by the station master, who resides there -with his family, as going on to Chivilcoy would have -entailed the loss of another day, and having to sleep -there with probably limited accommodation. The station -at Mercedes is a very fine one, with iron pillars and -a corrugated roof, brought from England; also a large -roadside shed for the locomotives, workshops, &c. The -large area of ground occupied by the station must be -with a view to future requirements. Omnibuses and a -diligence were waiting to convey passengers to the town, -which is near the station, and to distant places. We -did not go into the town, as it looked rather dusty and -our time was limited, having to return by a special train -at 1.30.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We rode some distance back on the engine, making -twenty-one miles in thirty-five minutes over part of the -campo, and reached the Parque station at Buenos Ayres -about five o'clock, or three and half hours for a distance -of about sixty miles; but we had to wait at two stations -for the up train to cross, besides calling at most of the -other stations, all of which involved a good deal of -delay. The engines have to water frequently, and there -was a scarcity of coal, so they were obliged to burn -slack, mixed with cinders, causing some difficulty in -keeping up steam. It must be admitted that the -Government have shown real energy and determination -in prosecuting this railway, which is of great benefit to -the Province, and I believe well managed, yielding a -good return for the capital invested. The rails used on -this line are the Barlow, and they are in very excellent -condition after being down several years. The line -<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>from Mercedes to Chivilcoy is laid with Griffin's rails, -which I understand are not so rigid as the Barlow. -There is no wood suitable for sleepers in this part of -the country.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is intended to carry on the line to the north end of -Buenos Ayres, and to build a wharf out to the river, thus -enabling the company to land and ship goods without -passing through the city, which will be a great convenience -and save expense, besides the advantage of -opening up communications with the other railways by -such a branch line. Eventually there is to be a Central -Station on the beach for all the railways, so that goods and -passengers can be conveyed from one to the other. As -already observed, a branch is to be made from the Merlo -station to the town of Lobos, and no doubt it will be -carried further in that direction, so as to develop the -resources of the country. All this will require time, -and a large outlay of money, for which the Government -is not prepared now, but it is sure to be accomplished -later on, with many more urgent improvements required -in this large and growing city.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We had a very fine day for our excursion, and -enjoyed it much, thanks to the kindness of Mr. Emilio -Castro, who made ample provision for creature comforts, -and was exceedingly attentive. Mr. Allen, the engineer -for the line, was also of the party, and gave us much -valuable information. He has been many years out -here, and with his brother, has worked his way to an -important and responsible position.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the Appendix will be found a very interesting -description of the workshops of the Western Railway, -which we extract from the columns of the Buenos -Ayres <cite>Standard</cite>, an influential paper extensively circulated -in the River Plate.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span> - <h2 class='c005'>BUENOS AYRES.—SECOND NOTICE.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The more I look over this great city the more I am -struck with its increase, as well as the luxury by which -it has been attended, evinced in the style of building -and in the large private establishments, some of which -are really on a princely scale.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Speaking of public buildings, I do not much admire the -opera house, called the Colon—it is badly formed and -the decorations are too heavy. The gas-lights are ugly, -being plain jets instead of small gas chandeliers. They -give a very common-place look to the whole. The tiers -of boxes look too much like <em>boxes</em>, and ought to be light -and open, suited to the country. The entrances and -corridors are also very rough and nearly as bad as the -unfinished theatre at San Paulo, though the design of -the latter is infinitely superior. On the other hand, the -secondary theatres are cheerful little places, and the new -Music Hall, built by private subscription, is a model for -lightness and elegance. I attended an amateur concert -there, and was much pleased; some fifty ladies and -gentlemen forming the vocal strength, aided by a large -instrumental orchestra. It was a sight not often seen -at home, where <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">la mauvaise honte</span></i> would prevent so -agreeable a gathering. The large hall was quite filled -and the programme gone through most systematically. -In alluding to this building, I may remark that it is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>precisely of the same dimensions as the new River Plate -Bank, being by the same architect. This Bank occupies -a large corner area of one of the most central streets in -the city, and can vie in architectural effect with many -of the new buildings in Lombard-street, with the advantage -of being much better seen.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The churches have often been described, and the -cathedral is now a finished, handsome building, very -well kept up both externally and internally, and religious -observances and masses are very frequent. The Clubs -of Buenos Ayres hold a conspicuous place in connection -with politics, and they occasionally afford opportunities -for beauty and fashion to meet at the balls held in them. -The Progreso occupies the first rank, the La Plata the -second, and latterly a Club called Del Parque<a id='p132'></a> has been -established. I was up the country when the Progreso -ball was held, and missed the invitation, as well as that -for the Temple, but attended the ball of the La Plata, -where 500 or 600 ladies and gentlemen were collected; -a very gay and cheerful meeting, where all appeared -to feel at home and enjoy themselves. South -American society has the charm of being free from the -stiffness and formality which exists in aristocratic -society at home. The ladies, however, add great -elegance of dress to their personal graces, which are -very considerable, and they dance with great ease. -With reference to the female population of Buenos -Ayres, the <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">fêtes</span></i> held on the anniversary of Independence -(25th of May) present an excellent opportunity for seeing -them to advantage out of doors. The weather was fine, -and the Plaza Victoria, as well as the leading streets, -was filled with well dressed ladies, particularly at night -to see the fireworks. The ladies go about very freely, -those who keep carriages, or can afford to hire them, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>generally driving a short way out of town when they -are not visiting their friends. Society in Buenos Ayres -is decidedly of the free and easy, friendly style, and -characterised by much hospitality. The democratic -element in the constitution naturally stirs up a good -deal of political feeling, but I do not find this to affect -the private relations of life so much as might be expected. -Party spirit runs high, and the “young Republicans” -especially are very bitter towards those who -differ from them; but of late years political animosity -has not been stained in the Argentine Confederation -with crimes such as those which have prevailed at Monte -Video. The continuance of the Paraguayan war and -the Alliance with Brazil have lately been the great -bone of contention, and shows itself on the eve of the -election of a new president, on the result of which the -future peace of the country may more or less depend.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I looked over the Museum, where many fine antediluvian -specimens found in this country are preserved, -together with a variety of curiosities in natural history, -animals, birds, &c, the whole being under the superintendence -of Dr. Burmeister, who is a very superior man, -and I believe remains there more from his love of -natural history than for the remuneration attached to -the office. He has travelled much over the South -American Continent.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Numerous fine hospitals exist in Buenos Ayres, both -native and foreign, and the English one, which I visited -in company with Mr. Boyd, chairman of the committee, -and the Rev. Mr. Ford, is a very good establishment, -well deserving of support by the British community -and by our own Government. The hospital was formerly -an old quinta, and is beautifully situated at the -east end of the city, overlooking the river, the Boca, Barracas, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>and the country round as far as the eye can reach. -It has been greatly enlarged, forming three sides of a -square, the fourth comprising a neat fever ward, run up -last year for cholera patients, and it proved of very -great utility. The wards, on both the ground floor and -upper story, are kept very clean, and Dr. Reid, the -medical attendant, resides on the premises, having occupied -his position for six years. The building and ground -are the property of the hospital and have much increased -in value, but the difficulty is in meeting the annual expenses, -which can only be done by voluntary subscriptions. -What is required to keep up the establishment properly -is a small tonnage rate on British ships, and inasmuch -as sailors derive the chief benefit from the hospital, I -cannot see why this should not be done. The expenses -attendant on such an institution in a foreign country are -considerable, if it is to be kept in a state of efficiency. -Formerly there was a tonnage rate of this kind levied -on British shipping, which may have led to some abuse, -and been done away with from some “ignorant impatience -of taxation,” but there is no valid reason why -shipping should not contribute to the support of -hospitals, from which, as I have already observed, it -derives the greatest amount of benefit, and without -which sailors would be exposed to great hardships.</p> - -<p class='c000'>One of the disadvantages of the Spanish system of -building their towns and cities in square blocks is that -it creates a sameness in the streets, and narrows the -approaches to them, leaving no scope for great leading -thoroughfares, so that there is a constant turning of -corners, and but for the names being pretty generally -posted up it would be difficult for strangers to find -their way. In reply to inquiries as to any particular -house or locality, you are generally told that it is so -<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>many squares off, so that taking the right bearing or -departure you can easily find out what you want. -Then the houses are legibly numbered, which, combined -with their plan of municipal taxation, ought to render -a correct census easy, but there seems to be some strong -objection to “numbering the people,” which I cannot -account for, and to this day no one is able to tell you -the population of Buenos Ayres with any certainty; -some calculations only giving 100,000, others 150,000, -and even as high as 200,000. I believe the last to be a -great exaggeration; probably the mean of 150,000 is -nearest the mark. Again, the extension of the city by -squares leads to the closing up of places for which a -greater space should be left. As an instance, the -English burial ground was quite in the country when -first made, but the city is fast encroaching upon it, and -notice has lately been given to have it removed, against -which a strong feeling exists, as the ground was purchased, -and is the property of foreigners; so the only -plan to be adopted, if any alteration is made at all, will -be to close the ground to future interments, the municipality -giving a piece of land a mile or two further out. -This, again, has its inconveniences, as the streets leading -to the present burial ground are almost unapproachable -in bad weather, and beyond their limits it would be -still more so. I visited the English burial ground, -which is pretty well kept up, but the huge square -family vaults are very unsightly, and will be rendered -useless in case the burial ground is removed to another -quarter.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The great native burial place called Recoleta, adjoining -a church of that name, is full of monuments of all kinds, -some on a most elaborate and costly scale,—little temples, -in fact, where the dead are laid on shelves, visible -<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>through glass doors. The cholera visitation compelled -further addition to be made to the ground, which is in -a very rough, disordered state, where medical students -would have full scope if they were at a loss for -subjects.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Altogether the municipal regulations of the city are -very defective. An effort is now being made to obtain -an adequate supply of water, and some works are in -course of erection on the shore in the front of the -Recoleta, on the plan of Mr. Coghlan, an engineer, who -has been long resident at Buenos Ayres. The works -will supply a number of fountains in the city, but no -project is yet on foot to carry the water into private -houses, which are supplied from their own patios, -where there is generally a well or large tank underground -which collects the rain water. A number of -plans are before the Government for draining the city, -one of the most urgent and imperative of wants, and -without which it is impossible to maintain the public -health. It is no wonder the cholera has made such -ravages, and every one dreads a revival of it, or the -appearance of some other scourge during the next hot -season. These mysterious visitations are warnings to -large populations that they cannot violate sanitary laws -with impunity, and force lethargic municipal bodies -into action. No city could be more easily drained and -sewered than Buenos Ayres, but it requires a large outlay -of money, which the Government can ill afford at -present; and I believe the municipal and provincial -taxes are already at their maximum.</p> - -<p class='c000'>House rent is very high, and with the exception of -meat, all the necessaries are dear. Luxuries are -especially high priced. One is forcibly reminded of -our old watchmen by the prevailing practice in South -<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>America of having what they call <span lang="es" xml:lang="es">serenos</span>, who go -round calling the hour, some of them with most sepulchral -voices, and they are about as useful as our -“Charlies” were, only they are armed with a sword, -and apt, I believe, at times to resort to it very improperly. -In other respects the system of police -appears to be pretty good, and considering the mixed -and heterogenous population, with many bad characters -about, there are less disturbances in Buenos Ayres than -I expected, though, as a matter of course, many -complaints are made as to the deficiency of police -regulations. I was about the streets and suburbs of the -city at various hours of the night and never met with -the least molestation.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The city is well lighted with gas, only it is stated -that the present works are inadequate to the supply, -and another company is about to be formed. The -charge for gas is extravagant; I am told about 24s. per -thousand feet, and as a matter of course the shares are -at a very high premium.</p> - -<p class='c000'>One of the most thriving occupations in the city -appears to be the hire of carriages and horses. There -are numerous large establishments of this kind as well -as for the building of carriages; the latter as a rule are -handsome and commodious. There are regular stands -in the open squares, and cars are in attendance at the -railway stations. For some time I could not make out -what a great clatter of horses coming through the city -about daylight meant; it sounded like a troop of cavalry, -but I afterwards found it was the hired horses going to -water at the river; indeed, horses are almost amphibious -here in consequence of doing so much work in the river -carts, and one day I saw an omnibus brought down on -the shore to be washed and cleaned, rather a novel -performance.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>River storms are not of common occurrence, but they -occasionally take place with great violence. It had been -hot and oppressive before, but it came on to blow heavily -on Sunday night, and next morning the river had risen -some 12 feet, the waves dashing on the beach in a most -alarming manner, and the whole of the low ground -between the city and the Boca was under water, with -part of the Boca Railway washed away, as well as a portion -of the Northern line, interrupting, of course, the -traffic on both. It was a curious sight to see the waves -dashing through the willow trees which are planted -along the shore, and for a time suspending washing -operations. Many houses on the low ground were invaded, -and the wooden ones built along the Boca, on -piles, looked like great bathing machines. The iron -seats placed on the shore beneath the willows were -knocked over and covered with seaweed. The storm -lasted two or three days, during which no communication -could be had with vessels either in the inner or -outer roads, and steamers were compelled to run for -the Tigre to land their passengers; also lighters with -cargo—the whole forming a scene of much excitement -and putting an entire stop to business. It delayed the -departure of our steamer several days. After the gale -subsided we had some fine sunny days, and the river fell -as rapidly as it had risen. This gale was not what is -termed a pampero, being from the south-east, beating -on the shore. A pampero frequently follows after it -from the south-west, or off the shore, causing the -river to fall again.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The changes of climate here are sudden and said to -be unhealthy. During the two months I was in the -river until the occurrence of the gale nothing could be -more delicious than the weather—cool, with bright sunshine -and any amount of exercise agreeable. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>nights were occasionally frosty, with ice in the mornings -in some places. Dust storms are terrible things during -the summer, but happily are rare, and generally the -forerunners of a pampero, accompanied by heavy rain, -which refreshes the thirsty soil. Droughts are serious -afflictions to the sheep and cattle, which often perish -from their effects. Water is the great desideratum for -the campo, and without it the prospects of the estanciero -are blighted. As I have said before, the Banda Oriental -is less subject to drought, being more undulated and -better watered, but the pampas, or plains of Buenos -Ayres, grow a more nutritive grass and rear finer sheep -and cattle.</p> - -<p class='c000'>During my stay at Buenos Ayres the Provincial -Chambers met, as well as the National Chambers, and I -attended a sitting of the latter, where an unusual -excitement prevailed owing to a motion put on the -books as to the retirement of President Mitre from -office, and whether or not this would put an end to the -alliance entered into for carrying on the war with Paraguay. -The building is small, exactly like a theatre -minus the stage, and was crowded to excess by strangers, -the pit, or lower part only, being used for the business -of the Senate. There was so much demonstration from -the galleries as to promise a stormy meeting, but when -the speeches began the speakers were patiently listened -to, with occasional cheers by their respective supporters, -at which the President rang his bell. Dr. Quintana -and others maintained that their views were -correct, and that the retirement of President Mitre -would put an end to the alliance. The Government, -represented by Senor Elizalde, Minister for Foreign -Affairs, maintained the contrary, and defended his -colleagues with considerable acumen and ability, the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>result being that nothing was got by the motion and -things remained in <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">statu quo</span></i>. The custom is for members -to speak sitting upon their benches, which greatly -detracts from their oratory, and must be very inconvenient, -as you can only hear a voice, and are puzzled -sometimes to know where it comes from. On another -occasion, when the Senate was in committee with explanations -going on, half-a-dozen members would be -addressing or interrogating the Minister at the same -time, which appeared very absurd, as well as unfair, it -being impossible to reply to more than one at a time, or -at all events to collect the observations of half-a-dozen -members speaking in the same breath. Senor Elizalde, -however, defended his position with much coolness and -ability, and was assisted by his colleague, Dr. Costa, -Minister for Education, &c. The audience became so -troublesome on another occasion that the Senators -decided to meet with closed doors, having only reporters -present, rather a trial to democratic forbearance, -but it did not seem to produce any sensation out of -doors. As in our own Parliament, a great loss of time -is caused by the professional speech makers, and the -business of legislation retarded accordingly, as they only -sit in the day in these countries. Whether or not such -an arrangement would suit in St. Stephen's is another -matter. Outside, and apart from public sittings, no -doubt a deal of intrigue and jobbery takes place in -South American assemblies, as in other countries, but I -think on the whole their legislation is fair and conducted -with moderation. There is not the same value -in “loaves and fishes” to operate with, nor the same -amount of honour and reward to look forward to as in -England; besides, the members of Government out here -are very poorly paid, so they are obliged to look to their -<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>professions, mostly as lawyers, unless they happen to -possess private fortunes. Republicanism is not endowed -with more gratitude than Royalty, and deserving men -who have faithfully and zealously served their country -are too often left in the “cold shade,” and forgotten in -both cases. The Provincial Assembly meet in another -part of the city, where all the provincial business is -carried on. It was formerly the town residence and -head-quarters of Rozas, from which many a bloody -mandate has been issued. The municipality occupy -large premises in the Plaza, attached to the old Spanish -<span lang="es" xml:lang="es">cabildo</span>, or prison, on which the date of 1722 is still to -be seen.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span> - <h2 class='c005'>PROGRESS OF STEAM NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>If there is one subject more than another on which I -am entitled to express an opinion it is that of steam -navigation on the great South American rivers, and -especially as regards the fluvial waters of the La Plata. -In my book, published in 1854, pages 314 to 316, occur -the following remarks:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>These are sentiments, however, which the reader may naturally -think are not very pertinent to a purpose like the present, and not -exactly in keeping with an occasion expressly connected with the -commercial opening-up of those streams by the instrumentality of -English enterprise, in a form so indicative of progress as steam. So, -too, thought the writer after a moment's rumination of the “cud of -sweet and bitter fancy;” for he reflected that these magnificent -regions, first discovered by Cabot—English, born and bred, though -of Venetian parentage—had stagnated, not under the rule of that -“good olde and famuse man,” but under the rule of those in whose -service he had found out a river which might, indeed, have proved -worthy of the name the avaricious Spaniards had bestowed upon it—La -Plata, the River of Silver—had they been imbued with a particle -of the spirit which has converted “icy Labrador,” the first territory -discovered by the same glorious adventurer, into a comparatively -industrial paradise. I augured, I hope with no unjustifiable audacity, -that now the descendants of Cabot and of his companions had been -brought into direct relationship with the people of the Parana, something -would be done to render that “Mississippi of the South” not -altogether unworthy of some slight social and political comparison -<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>with the Northern “Father of Waters” before many generations -should roll by; and I deemed it a not altogether impossible contingency -that the younger members of our crew might live to cast -anchor in certain riverine ports hereabouts, amid a forest of masts -and funnels belonging to all the maritime states in the world, not -one of which countries but may find produce of some kind or other -profitably suitable to its markets on these fertile shores.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I will leave it to my readers, acquainted with what is -going on at the present time, to say whether my views -were too sanguine. It may be said that the war in -Paraguay has hastened the development of steam navigation -up the rivers, which is true enough, but at the -same time I am satisfied that without this war there -would have been steady progress, particularly had -the policy of the despotic ruler of Paraguay been in a -pacific direction, encouraging, instead of throwing -every difficulty in the way of free transit to the -country lying beyond Paraguay, and into the interior -of Matto Grosso. The exigences of a war of the -nature carried on for the last three years, where -the troops, ammunition, and supplies of all kinds had to -be sent forward by steam, would naturally create active -employment for steamers, and it has tended to familiarise -navigators with every nook and corner, sand bank, or -other impediment that may have existed unknown -to any of them. The war at an end, steamers will be -organised to run to the different towns and stations, in -response to the requirements of traffic, as well as to -facilitate postal communications, so much needed in those -countries; and Rosario, being the terminus of the great -Central Railway, must of necessity become the rendezvous -of all river steamers ascending the Parana, the Uruguay -having already a pretty good organisation in this -respect. In a country so widespread, and so dependent -on internal communication by rivers, steam is now a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>primary necessity, and therefore it may fairly be -assumed that this will be one of the first objects of the -Government, as well as of the Central Argentine -Railway Company; the latter to facilitate traffic to and -from their line, and to regulate the departure of their -trains, a matter of much moment to travellers. It may -in truth be said that steam navigation on the waters of -La Plata and its affluents is only in its infancy, dating -from the commencement of the Paraguayan war. One -of the great requirements of civilised life is rapid intercourse, -not only for persons, but for correspondence, -and the task of arranging the latter is one that must be -strongly pressed on the Government by commercial -bodies, who are so much interested in the question. -Brazil sets an example in this respect that other Governments -ought to follow. In process of time telegraphic -wires will doubtless be added to steam facilities, and -probably be carried across the Andes to join the West -Coast line to Panama, in connection with the great -Atlantic cable to England.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When I remember the sensation created by the little -“Argentina,” and her trip to Rosario in 1853, I must -say the progress of events has indeed been rapid. To -this day the “Argentina” is remembered at Buenos -Ayres and Monte Video, and her subsequent loss was -regarded as a serious calamity.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I subjoin in the Appendix some particulars showing -the increase of steam tonnage in these waters, which will -be interesting to those who contemplate visiting the -regions of the La Plata.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In connection with the up-river steam traffic, the -Northern Railway to the Tigre is a great facility, as -passengers can walk on board the steamers without encountering -the often disagreeable boating at Buenos -<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>Ayres, and the passage through what is called the -Capitan is very pleasant, but if the railway was extended -a few hundred yards further, to the bank of the River -Lujan, it would be far more convenient as large sized -steamers would then resort there, as also vessels with -cargo for Buenos Ayres to be sent on by rail. The -Tigre is so small and so shallow that a few steamers -block it up, but the Lujan is wide and deep, and it -might be made a valuable adjunct to the port of Buenos -Ayres, at present suffering so much for want of accommodation. -In my general report on the railways this -subject will be again alluded to.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span> - <h2 class='c005'>RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>There are two classes of railways in the Argentine -Confederation, inaugurated by Provincial and the -National Governments respectively. I will begin with -the Province of Buenos Ayres, as the railroad system -has there acquired the greatest development. The first -line established was the Western, which has now reached -the town of Chivilcoy, a distance of 100 miles from the -city, and it is proposed to effect a further extension to -the frontier fort of Melincue. I need not repeat here -the details already given in reference to this enterprise.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Next in importance comes the Great Southern Railway, -seventy-one miles in length, which was made by -an English Company, under a Government guarantee -of 7 per cent. on £700,000, but the capital actually -raised was £750,000, the contractors taking £50,000 in -unguaranteed stock on certain conditions as to their -participation in dividend. The expenditure has been -further increased to nearly £800,000, owing to additional -disbursements for goods stations and for increased -rolling stock. The line was opened throughout in Dec. -1865, and the traffic has gone on steadily augmenting -with improved receipts, the result of the first year -showing a net profit of nearly three per cent.; the -second year a fraction over five per cent.; and the present -<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>year promises fair to reach the seven per cent. guaranteed -by the Government, when it will be self-sustaining -and free of all the drawbacks necessarily incidental to a -condition of dependence on State aid. This enterprise -has a prosperous future before it. The great question -which remains to be decided has relation to an extension -of the line further south, or in a south-westerly direction, -so as to intercept the large amount of traffic which -still comes forward by the ordinary bullock carts. One -disadvantage of the Southern Railway consists in its -chief station at the Plaza Constitucion being so far from -the central points of the city, which are only partially -reached by a tramway, but this ought to be extended, -and even then it will be difficult to meet the requirements -of passenger traffic. The following particulars -are taken from a private letter sent home after a very -pleasant trip over the line, accompanied by the Local -Committee and Manager:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>My first step after arrival here was to visit all the Railway -Stations, as they are generally a pretty good index of what is behind -them, and I found the Great Southern far in advance of all the -others as regards provision for the traffic it has to carry on. The -money which has been spent in shed accommodation was only an -absolute necessity, and is of that practical character which quite -meets the case. The single-roofed shed into which the wool is discharged -from the railway trucks on one side, and taken out from the -other, is most convenient, and to look at the sheds, which are divided -into compartments, and all numbered, you might fancy yourself at -one of the warehouses of the London Docks, with which you are -familiar. The booking offices, refreshment rooms, &c., occupy the -centre of the station, with the platform in front for passengers; the -warehouses occupying the two wings. There is also a goods receiving -shed, with stabling for horses used on the tramway. The only thing -I see in the distance is that more station room will be required. -Leaving the station by a double line of rails, you soon cross the -handsome bridge over the Riachuelo and arrive at Barracas station, -situated near the centre of a large population, and connected with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>the Boca, where a large portion of the business of the port of Buenos -Ayres is carried on, the place being studded with saladeros and large -warehouses, where the produce of the country is deposited, a great -drawback being the abominable stench arising from dead carcasses -and offal strewed about, and nests of piggeries which are allowed to -locate spite of all municipal regulations to the contrary. After -leaving Barracas the line strikes at once into the campo, or open -country, the first ten or fifteen miles being studded with quintas or -farms, and establishments of one kind or other, when you reach the -great plains covered with sheep, cattle, and horses, and at this time -the pastures look green and healthy, though at the same time they -could do with rain. The line is nearly a dead level with few curves, -the stations well built and commodious, and of a very durable nature, -easily added to if required; in fact, I do not see how a railway in this -country could be better adapted for its work; the rails, permanent way, -as well as the rolling stock, all appear to be in good order. Although -the line may be said to traverse a sea of land, and does not pass close -to any town of importance until it reaches Chascomus, there were -many more estancias (farms) in the distance than I expected to find. -We saw Mr. Glew and Mr. Donsellear (after whom two stations are -called) in <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">propria persona</span></i>. The Somborambon bridge, crossing a -river of that name, is a fine work, and at the Chascomus station -are evident signs of considerable traffic, with machinery for hoisting -the bullock carts on to the railway trucks after their wheels are -taken off, and the cart with its contents (wheels included,) brought -into Buenos Ayres. Chascomus itself is a large straggling town, -situated close to a picturesque lake, on the banks of which Mr. Crawford -(agent for Messrs. Peto and Betts during the construction of -the line) built himself a large comfortable house, now converted into -an hotel, at which we enjoyed a very good dinner. During the career -of Rozas Chascomus was a military station, and many people from -the neighbouring districts came to spend some months of the year -at the town, but its glory in this way has departed, and it does not -look like a very go-a-head place at present. On the whole I returned -much impressed with the soundness of the undertaking and the -favourable prospect before it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Northern Railway, originally called the San -Fernando, has been very unfortunate from its birth, -arising in a great measure from its being made on a -strip of land adjoining the river, where it was subject -<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>to inundations in consequence of sea storms. Had it -been carried over the bank, within a few hundred yards -to the left, it would have been entirely out of the reach -of such casualties, an instance of which occurred a few -days before I left Buenos Ayres, when a portion of the -earthworks was again washed away. Soon after my -arrival out I made a trip over the line, accompanied by -Mr. Crabtree, the new manager, Mr. Ford, locomotive -superintendent and engineer, Mr. Santa Maria, consulting -local director, and Mr. Horrocks, the traffic manager. -The station at the Retiro is a plain, modest building, -which answers the purpose well enough, though rather -open and exposed. The locomotives and carriages are -in limited number, but sufficient apparently for existing -wants, as the large American carriages hold many passengers. -A tramway from the most central point in -the city, passing along the beach, carries the passengers -to and from the station in a much more convenient -manner than to any of the other railways, and there -can be little doubt that if the line could be rendered -safe from the encroachments of the river on the occasion -of great storms, fortunately “few and far between,” it -would be a very prosperous enterprise, as it affords -accommodation for the most populous suburb of the city. -It also touches a branch of the river where a large portion -of the steam traffic is likely to be concentrated. I -found the rails in tolerable order, and altogether more -life in the concern than I had expected, considering the -drawbacks, financial and otherwise, with which it has -had to contend. The first station is Palermo, the old -paradise of Rozas, but which is now allowed to go to ruin -and decay, the beach from the Retiro to Palermo being -almost entirely monopolised by what has been termed -“an army of washerwomen.” The next station is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>Belgrano, where Mr. Matti, the great steamboat agent, -has a most fantastic quinta, glittering in green and -yellow colours, but of what style of architecture it -would be difficult to determine; nevertheless it is a -pretty place, and evidently no expense is spared to keep -it in order. It is, however, too close to the railway. -Directly opposite is the hotel of Mr. Watson, where I -can testify to a first rate dinner being provided for those -who want a little relief from the closeness and monotony -of the city. After Belgrano comes San Isidro, near -which are also many handsome quintas. There are two -or three other stations before arriving at San Fernando, -about which there is a large, scattered population. -Here a new branch is being made to the Parana, by a -small company of which Mr. Hopkins is the head; the -intention being to build a new wharf and some warehouses -there; but I question whether the enterprise will -ever arrive at maturity, as the most natural point for -the construction of such works is undoubtedly the -mouth of the Rio Tigre, on the Lujan River, as I have -previously observed. At the latter place we found -some dozen steamers, chiefly of large size, lying moored -alongside the banks where there is deep water. At the -Tigre station is a good restaurant, kept by a Frenchman, -who provided us with a comfortable breakfast, and after -two or three hours spent in a boat looking about the -river, and rambling over the neighbourhood, we returned -to Buenos Ayres much pleased with our trip.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Boca Railway is a small line, made to connect -the city with the important districts of the Boca and -Barracas. It was laid on the beach, and is not unfrequently -partially washed away by the river storms. The -Boca is quite a little port on the banks of the Riachuelo, -where lighters discharge and load, and where -<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>small craft are also built. Amongst other establishments -there is that of the Messrs. Casares, the largest -lightermen in the place, which is at all times very busy -and generally crowded. A branch of the railway goes -on towards Barracas, where an old wooden bridge -crosses the stream, rendered exceedingly filthy by the -refuse of the saladeros finding its way into the water. -The effluvia arising from this cause are of a very offensive -nature. Attempts, however, are being made to -cleanse and deepen this valuable river, but the slow pace -at which improvements are carried on here will probably -postpone the event to a future generation. Most of the -houses about the Boca are of wood, and are built on -piles to avoid danger from floods, but there are also -many large stone edifices in which produce is stored. -A few days before I left a river storm laid nearly the -whole locality under water, destroying a portion of the -railway, and of course stopping the traffic. The replacing -of the rails is not, I understand, a very formidable -undertaking. The whole line, which is only three -or four miles in length, including the branch to -Barracas, ought to have been built on piles or led -through an iron viaduct, so as to be out of the reach of -the floods; and under existing circumstances, not to -speak of the cost of repairing the permanent way, the -traffic is interrupted at the very time it would be of the -greatest utility. The original plan, and that for which -the concession was obtained, was to connect the Boca -and Barracas with the city, running a branch to Ensenada, -where it was proposed to form a new port; but this part -of the scheme is still in embryo. Where the line is -really of utility and would carry a large traffic is from -the Custom-house to the Boca, and across the bridge -higher up to Barracas, where the Government are making -<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>a large swing iron bridge to replace the old dilapidated -wooden one now in use. An iron viaduct is -about being laid to connect the Boca Railway with the -Custom-house. If properly constructed the Boca Railway -would command the whole traffic of this district, -and direct communication might be established with the -Northern and Southern Railways; but a large additional -capital is required before this scheme can be realised. -The bulk of the Boca traffic is carried on by carts, under -great disadvantages and at a heavy expense; and it is -a painful sight to see the poor horses struggling through -the mud, or toiling under the lash up the steep, miserably -paved streets which connect the beach with the -warehouses and <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">depôts</span> at the southern end of the city. -In fact everything in the way of locomotion is carried -on under great difficulties, and the detention of shipping -in the outer roads is a serious matter. When the -river is low, the beach is covered with carts galloping -backwards and forwards, bringing cargo from the -lighters or taking produce to them—the horses up to -their girths in water and sometimes swimming. Many -of the carts have a hollow bottom made water tight to -prevent damage to the goods; and at times, when there -is not water for boats to the mole, passengers have still -to embark or disembark in carts, as was the case when -I last visited Buenos Ayres. Both this mole and that -to the Custom-house, for which the latter is exclusively -used, have been built since that time; but to show the -great want of accommodation which still exists to carry -on the trade of the port, there are upwards of 300 -custom-house <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">depôts</span> in different parts of the city besides -the Custom-house itself, and at the north end a large -market is being converted into a <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">depôt</span>; in fact the -trade of the port has entirely outgrown the facilities for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>its reception, the whole, as at Monte Video, being in a -great state of confusion.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On the subject of railways generally in the Argentine -Confederation there cannot be a second opinion that it -is through their instrumentality the future development -of the country must be looked for; and it is to the -credit of General Mitre that so much has been done -during his presidency, especially the great work of the -Central Argentine Railway, which more than any other -measure must tend to link together the provinces of the -Confederation and strengthen their union. So soon as -the line is open to Cordova the communication with the -western provinces will be speedy, and produce will find -its way to that city as a central point, thence to be -brought down to Rosario, Buenos Ayres, or Monte -Video, comparatively at great saving of time and expense. -At present the cost of transit absorbs a large -part of the total value, the effect of which has been to -discourage any notable increase of production beyond -the necessities of local consumption. The railway will -in addition afford a more easy mode of locomotion, and -will greatly promote intercourse, while emigrants can be -at once conveyed to distant places where their services -are required. On every ground, therefore, the promotion -and extension of railways is the first duty of President -Mitre's successor, and it is to be hoped Senor -Sarmiento will not be remiss in this respect. At all -events, the way has been paved and a good example set. -The only other railway to notice, and which I had not -an opportunity of seeing, is a small one from Puerto -Raiz, on the Parana, to Galaguay, a distance of about six -miles, which was constructed by Mr. Coghlan for a sum -of £20,000, or about £3,380 per mile. I believe it is -very useful and returns a fair percentage on the outlay.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span> - <h2 class='c005'>EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Both the Government and the people of Brazil feel the -necessity and the value of promoting immigration to the -fullest extent. Experiments have been tried, and small -colonies of Europeans founded in some of the southern -provinces, all of which have been more or less successful.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In my account of the Province of San Paulo I have -alluded to the settlement of Germans on the coffee -plantations of Senhor Vergueiro, and to the desire of -other large owners of property to follow his example. -I also instanced the case of a little colony of Germans -at Juiz de Fora, in the Province of Rio de Janeiro, -which I had an opportunity of seeing, and there are -besides in the same province other colonies on a larger -scale. Various efforts have been made by individuals -in other parts of the Empire to introduce foreign -labour.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Slave labour is of course an impediment to the more -general influx of Europeans, but where lands are set -apart and arrangements made for the location of colonists -there is no reason why the latter should not -succeed, and form the nucleus of a large future population. -The assistance and pecuniary co-operation of -Government is of course required to effect any decided -progress in this direction; and considering that every -<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>labourer brought into the country contributes to the -national revenue, as well as to national production, the -primary expense of passage money is soon repaid.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Many of the high table-lands of Brazil are admirably -adapted to agricultural purposes, the climate, owing to -elevation, being also favourable to European settlement. -Enormous tracts of such land are at the disposal of the -Executive, but it needs some outlay in order to prepare -the way for emigrants, as they cannot be expected -to pioneer as in the case of the United States, on -account of their ignorance of the language and the -difficulty of access from the port of debarkation.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The time is fast approaching when slavery must cease -to exist in Brazil; and it behoves the Government to -anticipate this event by the introduction of free labour. -It is morally certain that the negroes, even if they -settle down under their new condition, will not labour -so constantly as when in a state of servitude. The -Government ought, therefore, I repeat, to adapt itself to -the exigences of its position, and encourage by every -means the accession of European agricultural labourers -of a suitable class. Large landowners, whose estates -are now only partially worked, might devote a portion -of them for new comers, and, in connection with the -Central and Provincial Governments, attain the desired -end. Financial difficulties, caused by the long war -with Paraguay, may be pleaded as an excuse for neglecting -this great question, but the very drain that has thus -taken place of men and money only renders the case -more pressing. I believe the Emperor entertains the -most enlightened and practical views, both as regards -doing away with slave labour and replacing it by the -introduction of emigrants; but the trammels of a war -expenditure, and the degree of attention the struggle -<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>demands on the part of the Ministers, prevent their inauguration -of measures which all must see are inevitable, -if the Empire is to prosper as heretofore.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In our own colonies the Colonial Governments have -naturally been the chief promoters of emigration, from -exercising, as they do, full control over their own -revenues and over public lands; but in Brazil the impetus -must first come from the action of the Central -Government, which receives and distributes the provincial -revenues after payment of provincial expenditure.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the southern provinces of Brazil the cultivation of -coffee and cotton offers the greatest scope for European -labour, and the Province of San Paulo alone is capable -of wonderful development as respects the growth of -these two important articles if only proper means are -adopted to provide augmented manual power.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The northern provinces present greater difficulties, -from the nature of the climate, which is more adapted -to a people like the Chinese than to Europeans. There -is, however, an objection to this industrious race in -consequence of their desire to return home when they -have accumulated a little money. A further introduction -of the African race as free labourers would be -very advantageous. Though this might be a great -gain to the negroes themselves, whose lives in their own -country are at the mercy of such wretches as the sable -King of Dahomy, philanthropists object to the removal -of Africans from their native soil on any grounds, -entirely ignoring the miserable existence they lead -there and the barbarities to which they are subjected. -But let slavery be once abolished in Brazil, and there -could be no objection that I can see to their settlement -in those provinces where their labour would be most -useful, say from the River Amazon down to the Province -<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>of Bahia. This, however, is only a casual remark, and -does not come within the scope of my present inquiry, -namely, as to the best mode of introducing European -labour into Brazil. As I have already pointed out to the -Government, the passage money of emigrants must be -paid, or advanced, the selection of them must be carefully -attended to, and on reaching Brazil they should -be sent on immediately to their ultimate destination, -where suitable accommodation should also be provided -against their arrival. Every necessary arrangement can -easily be made if the Government and landed proprietors -would take some trouble and show their practical -earnestness in the matter.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There is an Emigrants' Home, or temporary abode in -Rio de Janeiro, where proper attention is paid to them, -and an officer (Dr. Galvao) is especially appointed by -Government to look after this department. I quite -intended to have visited this establishment, but was -unable to do so. I had, however, a conversation with -Dr. Galvao on the subject of emigration generally.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span> - <h2 class='c005'>EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>No country in South America is more favourably placed, -or presents a greater field for European labour than the -River Plate, notwithstanding the drawbacks which have -to some extent retarded its progress and injured its -character. It has an advantage over Brazil in the -absence of slavery, and is of a milder climate, though it -is very hot during the summer months, as I experienced -when at Monte Video, in January last, at which time -the cholera was at its height.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A friend, who has resided in Buenos Ayres for two -or three years, chiefly out in the campo, has thus -recorded his experience of the average temperature:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>20</td> - <td class='c006'>Days</td> - <td class='c006'>very cold</td> - <td class='c018'>45 to 55</td> - <td class='c019'>deg. Fah.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>182</td> - <td class='c006'>Days</td> - <td class='c006'>moderate</td> - <td class='c018'>55 to 75</td> - <td class='c019'>deg. Fah.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>60</td> - <td class='c006'>Days</td> - <td class='c006'>warm</td> - <td class='c018'>75 to 88</td> - <td class='c019'>deg. Fah.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>45</td> - <td class='c006'>Days</td> - <td class='c006'>hot</td> - <td class='c018'>80 to 85</td> - <td class='c019'>deg. Fah.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>58</td> - <td class='c006'>Days</td> - <td class='c006'>intensely hot</td> - <td class='c018'>85 to 105</td> - <td class='c019'>deg. Fah.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c019'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>365</td> - <td class='c006'>Days.</td> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c019'> </td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>The thermometer, in exposed places, reaches 110 Fah. -in the shade, but such cases are very exceptional.</p> - -<p class='c000'>He also adds as follows some very useful remarks as -to clothing:</p> - -<p class='c014'>Flannel shirts are best; woollen drawers should -also be used</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>For working, clothes of such colour as will not -show the dust are best.</p> - -<p class='c014'>The thickness of the clothes for summer wearing -may be very much the same as would suit in -England during hot summer weather; they -should be waterproofed before being made up.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Indiarubber coats, although very useful in -winter, are ruined in hot weather, and stick -together and tear, so as to be useless.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Good English boots are not to be had, and are -therefore very useful.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As to food he says:—</p> - -<p class='c014'>Be careful about eating and drinking, especially -when newly landed, and avoid as much as -possible unnecessary exposure to the sun.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Fruit should not be taken in quantities at first. -Peaches are said to be the best and most -wholesome.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I may add from my own experience that where it is -intended to frequent the campo a pair of good riding -boots are very necessary, and a rough pea jacket would -be a very good companion in winter. In town cloth -cloaks are much worn, and in the campo chiefly <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">ponchos</span></i>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The boundless tracts of open country are in a great -measure occupied by sheep and cattle, and do not -require much of the labour of man; but sheep farming -having been carried to a large extent, the price of wool -has much depreciated, and sheep can be bought very -cheap. In consequence, agriculture is now much more -attended to and will require labour. Good wheat can -be grown in most of the Argentine Provinces, and now -forms a staple commodity, which may be increased to -almost any extent where railways afford the means of -easy transport, and so soon as there are sufficient -<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>labourers to cultivate the soil. Indeed, there is no -reason why wheat, as well as Indian corn, should not be -largely exported, and I believe this will be the case in -a very few years. Wheat crops are liable to injury from -drought, but the price obtained for the product is a -very remunerative one, and it is not subject to losses -by depreciation as frequently occurs with sheep and -cattle.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Foreign settlers in distant provinces have of late been -much damaged by Indian raids, to prevent which the -Government has done very little, owing to the drain of -soldiers for the war and to internal discord, but this -plague is merely a temporary one, and nothing would -tend more to remove the evil than a large increase of -population, of which the country stands greatly in -need.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Emigration, at present, goes on to a limited extent, -but chiefly of the class suitable for cities and towns, and -not for an agricultural or country life. Several colonies, -founded under arrangements with the Provincial -Governments of Santa Fé and Entre Rios, are prospering, -and those in the fine Province of Cordova will also -do well when the National Government is able to repel -Indian inroads and protect the settlers. Many young -Englishmen have settled in Cordova during the last -four years, with more or less capital, and have bought -land, particularly near the line of the Central Argentine -Railway, naturally looking to Government for protection, -which unhappily has not been effectively extended. -In many cases their stock has been carried off by the -savages, and their prospects seriously injured. They -are now turning their attention to agriculture, and I -have every reason to think they will be successful.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Numbers of young men have come out to the Plate -<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>with little or no resources, expecting to find employment -on sheep farms, and failing this, have fallen into -bad habits, often wandering about the country and -undergoing great hardships and misery. To do any -good in such a country steadiness of character is the -most essential quality, nor is it at all safe to trust to the -chapter of accidents. It is only by well organised -arrangements, and great perseverance, that new comers -can expect to overcome the difficulties attending their -settlement in a new country, the very extent of which -is a disadvantage until such time as the influx of population -and the formation of communities do away with -these inconveniences.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Chilian Government have lately made a contract -with a Hamburg house for sending to the port of Lota -Swiss, Tyrolese, and German emigrants, on a principle -that may be adopted with benefit in relation to the -River Plate. The emigrants must be provided with -good characters, viséd by the Chilian Consul at Hamburg, -and on their arrival at Lota they are to be sent -on to Arauco by the Government, and placed in possession -of their land, according to the terms of the Chilian -law lately published. The colonists are to be furnished -with between-deck passages, and they will be allowed -one ton of measurement for every adult, and half a ton -for each person under 12 years, and they are to be -treated on board in conformity with the Hanover Passenger -Act. The Government also agree to pay 40 -dollars (£8) for the passage of each adult, and 20 -dollars for each child under 12 years of age. The -contract is to last for four years, and if the scheme -should meet with favour in Germany, the Government -agree to contract for 100 families for the first year, 150 -for the second, 200 for the third, and 300 for the fourth -<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>year, with liberty to the contractors to exceed these -numbers to the extent of 25 per cent. It appears to -me questionable whether the contractors can afford to -take emigrants that distance for £8 passage money, but -probably the nature of the land concession is an inducement -to families possessing some means to augment -this sum, in which case it becomes a scheme of assisted -passages on terms arranged between the emigrants and -contractors. It is, however, a step in the right -direction, which other Governments will do well to -follow.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At Monte Video there is an Emigrant Office under -the management of a respectable committee, where -every information is afforded as to employment, but -there is no Home or Asylum. At Buenos Ayres there -is a miserable building on the ground floor, called an -Asylum, where emigrants are allowed to remain four -days. It seems to have been formerly a large stable, -and is indeed more fit for horses than human beings. -It wants both ventilation and cleanliness, the latter at -all events easy to provide, but, considering the vast -importance of emigration to the country, a more appropriate -place might be maintained at very moderate cost. -It is not necessary, nor desirable, that emigrants should -on landing find themselves so comfortable as to care -little about removing, but there is a medium between -this and the dirty place open to them at present. Of -course the sooner the emigrants are sent off to the -locality where their labour is required the better.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If ever there was a time when sheep farming ought to -offer advantages to new comers it is the present, when -the value of sheep has fallen so low that land may be -stocked for a very small sum as contrasted with former -years, and land itself can be bought or rented at considerably -<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>less than formerly. This has inflicted great -loss upon the older residents; indeed the result has -been sometimes so disastrous that sheep farmers here and -there are giving it up altogether, and others putting as -much of their land as possible under tillage. Everything -is therefore in favor of new settlers who may -choose to try their fortunes in this particular line, only -they must make up their minds to rough it for a few -years, and be content with a life in the campo.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The consumption of an article like wool can never be -subject to any lengthened depression, and with railway -facilities there will be increased means for utilising the -carcasses of sheep, by boiling down, or otherwise disposing -of them. On the other hand, in the ordinary -course of things, more land will be put under cultivation, -and agriculture as well as sheep farming is destined to -play an important part in the commercial history of the -River Plate.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As I have already remarked, the want of population -is the great drawback under which this country now -suffers, and is an impediment to progress in every way. -This can only be remedied by emigration receiving the -direct aid as well as the encouragement of Government. -It is not sufficient that a few stray people find their -way up the country, but centres of population and labour -should be formed in the most productive parts of every -province, which would lead to agricultural progress, and -eventually to the formation of new towns and cities. -The mere extension of existing cities will never bring -solid wealth to the Argentine Confederation, nor develop -political stability.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span> - <h2 class='c005'>RAILWAYS IN BRAZIL.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Unfortunately the promoters of railway enterprises in -Brazil, entered into with British capital, have looked -more to the guaranteed interest offered by the Government -upon the money to be expended than to legitimate -sources of traffic, out of which a dividend might be -earned. All the Brazilian Railways, with the exception -of the little Mauá, at Rio de Janeiro, and to which reference -is made in my former book, have been created -since 1853, the first in order and time being the Recife, -or Pernambuco, about which there has been so much -controversy between the Company and the Government. -Before submitting any comments of my own, I will -quote the following from the report lately issued by the -Minister of Public Works, Senhor Dantas, upon this and -the other lines. The document is official, and therefore -worthy of reliance:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The annexed gives the length, receipts, and expenses of the railways -in 1867. The receipts and expenses of the S. Paulo Railway -include only nine and a half months:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <th class='c018'>Name.</th> - <th class='c018'>Kilos.</th> - <th class='c018'>Receipts.</th> - <th class='c019'>Expenses.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>D. Pedro II</td> - <td class='c017'>197.4</td> - <td class='c017'>2,523:796$781</td> - <td class='c007'>1,117:034$992</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>S. Paulo</td> - <td class='c017'>139.0</td> - <td class='c017'>1,236:423 702</td> - <td class='c007'>305:140 286</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Pernambuco</td> - <td class='c017'>124.9</td> - <td class='c017'>599:331 445</td> - <td class='c007'>414:772 537</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Bahia</td> - <td class='c017'>123.5</td> - <td class='c017'>263:323 292</td> - <td class='c007'>517:870 760</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Gantagallo</td> - <td class='c017'>49.1</td> - <td class='c017'>709:222 555</td> - <td class='c007'>365:830 300</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Mauá</td> - <td class='c017'>17.5</td> - <td class='c017'>297:595 347</td> - <td class='c007'>172:297 628</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Total</td> - <td class='c017'>651.6</td> - <td class='c017'>5,599:693 122</td> - <td class='c007'>2,892:955 503</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>These figures leave a balance of 2,706:737$610 over the cost of -working.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>D. PEDRO II. RAILWAY.</h3> - -<p class='c020'>With the Macacos branch the length of this railway is 203 kilometres, -56.6 kilometres having been added during last year in its -prolongations towards the station of Entre Rios. Failing to come -to an agreement with the Companhia Mineira for the extension to -Porto Novo da Cunha, an offer was made by the Companhia Uniao e -Industria to construct a cart road to that point, the final offer of -this Company being to make it gratuitously if certain favours were -conceded to it. However, its offers were declined, as a cart road was -judged incompatible with the requirements of the railway. Under -these circumstances, as the state of the finances did not permit the -contracting for the extension, orders were issued to give it a commencement -by administration; and at the present time the works of -the first miles are tolerably advanced.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A proposition to construct and work the fourth section has been -received from capitalists and planters of the district it would serve, -and it is now awaiting solution.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The competition between the railway and the Uniao e Industria -road being prejudicial to both, the directory of this road has proposed -bases for a compromise as under:—The Uniao e Industria road company -to give up all its traffic between its station of Posse and Rio, -receiving as compensation certain advantages, the principal one -being the duration of its contract for twelve years, and the receipt of -120 rs. on every arroba transported on the railway between Entre -Rios and Rio, which, it is estimated, would give the company -324:000$ annually, and transfer traffic of 2,700,000 arrobas, or -1,000:000$ annually, to the railway. In order to facilitate this -transaction the company proposes to lease the railway for twelve -years and pay a dividend of four per cent. to the Government. It -also proposes to make any extension determined on, that to Porto -Novo to be finished in five years, the Government to furnish the -money, and the company to receive no compensation for its trouble -except what would arise from the 120 reis the arroba upon the -traffic over the line from Entre Rios and Rio. On the completion -of the Porto Novo branch, the company would receive 2,000:000$ -out of the profits over the four per cent. dividend as indemnity for -any loss, rights or advantages secured to it by the contract of -October 29, 1864, and it would then commence the construction of -the railway through the valley of the Parahybano towards the Serra -<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>of Mantiqueira, using for this purpose four-fifths of the net revenue -received from the railway, one-fifth remaining for the company, this -continuing until the end of the twelve years, and the company binding -itself to make, at its own cost, the branch from Juiz de Fora to -the railway station of Uba. If, however, the Government judge it -better to construct a system of macadamised cart roads, centering at -Entre Rios, the company will then pay six per cent. on the railway, -and will construct within four years, twenty leagues of road to Porto -Novo da Cunha, and on to Barra do Pomba, and will, within six -years, macadamise the Serraria road as far as Mar de Hespanha, -the road from the Parahybuna station to Flores, and that from -the Uba station to Juiz de Fora; making also, during the last six -years of the contract, the road to Barbacena, following as much as -possible the trace drawn for a railway, and prolonging it to S. Joao -de El Rei. Besides, the company will settle 2,000 families of -colonists along the road from Uba to Juiz de Fora, and on that between -Juiz de Fora, Barbacena, and S. Joao de El Rei. The company -also binds itself to keep in order all the cart roads in construction, -transporting freight and passengers on them at the rates provided -for the Uniao e Industria road; and, in addition, to deliver up to -the Government, at the end of the twelve years, the railway and -roads in good condition.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Three proposals have been made for the prolonging of the railway -to the waterside; that of the engineers, Senhors Bulhoes and Passos, -proposes to bring the line to the Praia da Gambôa, and there construct -large warehouses and furnish all facilities for shipping and -landing goods; that of Senhor F. B. Jansen Lima and others proposes -to pass by a tunnel through the Livramento Hill to the Praia da -Saude; that of Senhor Feliciano José Henrique proposes to connect -the Santa Anna station with the principal parts of the city wherein -goods are now stored.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The capital employed in the railway having been 27,525:957$816 -upon the 31st of December last, its net income of 1,422:434$402 -during the last year represents a dividend of 5.16 per cent. upon -its cost, which percentage should, when the Entre Rios traffic -assumes a normal condition, rise to six per cent. in view of the -greater number of stations now open, and if the Uniao e Industria -freights pass over the line there can be no doubt that the percentage -will exceed seven per cent. per annum.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The following table shows the progress of the railway since its -<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>commencement. The Macacos branch is excluded, it not existing in -the first years:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <th class='c018'>Year.</th> - <th class='c018'>Working.<a id='p167'></a></th> - <th class='c018'>Revenue.</th> - <th class='c019'>Per Cent.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1859</td> - <td class='c017'>606:870$492</td> - <td class='c017'>720:900$443</td> - <td class='c007'>84.18</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1860</td> - <td class='c017'>611:402 672</td> - <td class='c017'>920:765 784</td> - <td class='c007'>66.40</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1861</td> - <td class='c017'>688:506 150</td> - <td class='c017'>1,073:731 050</td> - <td class='c007'>64.12</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1862</td> - <td class='c017'>800:934 211</td> - <td class='c017'>964:996 982</td> - <td class='c007'>82.99</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1863</td> - <td class='c017'>849:421 671</td> - <td class='c017'>969:621 542</td> - <td class='c007'>87.60</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1864</td> - <td class='c017'>964:199 300</td> - <td class='c017'>1,211:615 205</td> - <td class='c007'>79.57</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1865</td> - <td class='c017'>1,088:133 594</td> - <td class='c017'>1,756:148 520</td> - <td class='c007'>61.96</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1866</td> - <td class='c017'>834:057 521</td> - <td class='c017'>1,848:783 351</td> - <td class='c007'>45.11</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c017'>1867</td> - <td class='c017'>1,082:283 327</td> - <td class='c017'>2,506:836 961</td> - <td class='c007'>43.17</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018' colspan='2'>Net revenue of 1867</td> - <td class='c017' colspan='2'>1,422:434$402</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The stations opened during 1867 were:—Uba on May 5, Parahyba -do Sul on August 11, Entre Rios on October 13.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>BAHIA RAILWAY.</h3> - -<p class='c020'>The shareholders of this railway continue to suffer the consequences -produced by the excess of expenses over receipts. Last -year's balance showed an increase of 12:867$764 in receipts, and of -24:383$445 in expenses, giving a deficit of 218:630$092, more by -11:515$681 than the preceding year's.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This result is no doubt disheartening, but meantime I await the -report of the commission I authorised the President of the province -to appoint, whose investigations must have revealed the latent -causes of this state of things, in order to take such measures as may -be recommended for the purpose of placing the enterprise on the -footing reclaimed by its and the public treasury's interests.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The construction of the feeding roads judged necessary for the -improvement of the traffic could not be carried on rapidly owing to -the financial condition of the province.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The register of cattle established at Alagoinhas is estimated to give -the railway a further traffic of 24,000 bullocks and to augment the -receipts by 40:000$.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In my opinion, however, the only measure which can save the -capital employed in the railway is its prolongation, but unfortunately -those causes subsist which counselled me to postpone surveys -for the prolonging of this and the other railways, with the exception -of the Dom Pedro II. line, whose existing conditions are different.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The debt of the Province of Bahia to the National Treasury for -advances on account of the Two per Cent Guarantee was estimated -<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>at 1,516:862$220 up to the first half of last year, and at present -must be more than 2,000:000$.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>PERNAMBUCO RAILWAY.</h3> - -<p class='c016'>Notwithstanding the elements of prosperity which the company -already counts on, and those which the future reserves for it, its -financial position is not at present satisfactory, nor have its shares -been able to obtain in London quotations worthy of the destinies -awaiting it. To such result that false position has contributed, -besides other things, in which the company has been placed by the -various operations through which the company sought to obtain its -capital. As you know, part of this capital enjoys the guarantee of -interest, another part was obtained by a loan effected by the -Imperial Government, and finally, a third fraction, furnished by the -shareholders, runs the risk of not realising the least return for a -long time. The question of the increase of guaranteed capital, in -discussion between the Imperial Government and the company, -must indubitably have aided in augmenting the embarrassments in -which the company flounders. It would be very proper to put an -end as soon as possible to every question delaying the prosperity of -an enterprise whose capital has contributed largely to the development -and riches of the Province of Pernambuco. It is needful to -give a definite settlement to that question of the increase of the -guaranteed capital of this railway which has been submitted to -your deliberation. The directory in London is constantly reiterating -its reclamations for a final decision. As we do not possess the -needful means for undertakings of this kind, it is of much importance -to us that foreign capital, which comes to try and to explore, -may obtain advantages that may encourage other enterprises.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On the other hand, it is of very great interest to the State that -companies which enjoy a guarantee of interest may prosper in such -a mode as to dispense with the guarantee. The company having to -meet the next payment of debenture bonds, whose time was ending, -and neither having funds in hands for it nor the power of raising -them in London, it recurred to the Imperial Government, asking for -a loan of £40,000, but this the Government could not grant, as it -was not duly authorised.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The question of the prolongation to the city of Recife has occupied -my attention, especially since the engineer of the company presented -the plans and estimates for the realisation of the project. According -to them the direction of the line should run parallel to the streets of -Santa Rita, Nova, and Praia, and the cost is estimated at £5,000.</p> -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>Although the company comprehends the advantage it should obtain -by this prolongation it is not disposed to undertake the works without -a guarantee on the capital expended, or without some other -pecuniary assistance. The advantages which this work will produce -for the agriculture and commerce of the province, and the small -sacrifice which its execution asks from the public coffers dispose me -favourably towards it, and if, as I hope, the examinations I ordered -into those plans and estimates do not change my opinion, I will at a -proper time authorise a contract for this improvement.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In accordance with the dispositions of the law I authorised the -Imperial Legation in London to lend the sum of £15,000<a id='p169'></a> to the -company, to be employed in increasing the rolling stock. The company -proposing, however, to accept the loan without interest, and to -amortise the principal with the excess of revenue over seven per -cent., I declared the proposal inacceptable.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The revenue diminished by 47:917$011 from that of the preceding -year, it coming to 599:331$445. The expenses on the contrary rose -from 364:134$259 in 1866 to 414:772$537, an increase of 50:638$270 -occurring therefore in 1867. This double result is partly explained -by the diminution of the traffic in consequence of bad harvest in the -localities profiting by the road, and partly by the need to promptly -carry out the repairs of the road. Although it is desirable that this -result had not occurred, it should not suscitate serious apprehensions -for the future of the railway.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>SANTOS AND JUNDIAHY RAILWAY.</h3> - -<p class='c020'>This line was inaugurated on the 15th, and opened on the 16th of -February, 1866: this road at once commenced to show an extensive -traffic, which, augmenting day by day as the planters became convinced -of its superiority over ordinary methods, prognosticates most -brilliant destinies to it. However, notwithstanding its evident -inferiority, the common road still maintains a serious competition -with the railway and takes from it a part of the products which are -sent to Santos from the interior, inasmuch as, out of 1,004,779 -arrobas, at which amount the total traffic is estimated, 611,818 go -by the railroad, and 392,961 by the highway. Despite this competition, -and the difficulties with which every enterprise struggles at -first, however well organised, the gross receipts of the Santos and -Jundiahy railway, since its opening, up to the end of 1867, rose to -1,236:423$702, thus giving more than 4¾ per cent. upon the capital -employed. It maybe presumed that, when the short life competition -referred to is overcome, and when the line is extended to Campinas, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>taking into account the natural increase of production in a province -so favourably placed, the revenue would soon double, thus freeing -the treasury from the onus of the guarantee of interest. The Santos -and Jundiahy Railway is, therefore, one of those amongst us which -promise best; and perhaps it may be considered the first industrial -undertaking of the kind, if the serra service, by means of -inclines, does not exact a constant outlay which will diminish the -revenue.</p> - -<p class='c011'>During the past year the trains of the road transported 176,081 -passengers, namely:</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>1st Class</td> - <td class='c007'>19,078½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>2nd Class</td> - <td class='c007'>26,033½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>3rd Class</td> - <td class='c007'>130,952 </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Season tickets</td> - <td class='c007'>17 </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c007'>176,081 </td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The plan of Engineer P. Fox for the extension of the line to Campinas -having received the preference over the other traces presented -to the ministry in my charge, the President of the province undertook -to promote a company of planters and capitalists to carry this -important benefit into effect. The company having the right of -preference to the extension of the railway, I instructed our Minister -in London to obtain an explicit declaration from the directory renunciatory -of its right, in order that there might be no future doubts or -reclamations. The directors replied that the company expressly -desisted from the right, and, therefore, the association could proceed -with its measures for the realisation of its object. In the opinion of -Engineer E. Viriato de Medeiros the amount of capital expended up -to the 30th of July, 1866, amounted to £2,548,434, but for payment -of interest due it was estimated hypothetically at £2,650,000.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The provincial assembly not having empowered the President to -pay the interest of two per cent. upon the guaranteed capital, to -which the province had bound itself, it was necessary for the national -treasury to take upon itself the satisfaction of the provincial promise. -It is therefore requisite that the provincial assembly provide in the -estimate of this year for relieving the public treasury from the charge -upon its already too burdened coffers.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It will be seen from these reports that all the guaranteed -railways are exposed to difficulties arising out of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>the special character of the relations existing between -the various companies and the Government, and that -Senhor Sobragy, the talented manager of the Dom Pedro -Segundo Railway, has been sent to England to try to -come to terms with the companies. In my opinion, -however, nothing short of the Government taking over -the railways, giving in exchange a guaranteed stock, can -ever meet the requirements of the case, or bring these -concerns out of their present unfavourable position. It -would be useless to recapitulate here the causes of their -failure. Certainly no fault can be laid to the charge of -the Government, which has acted in perfect good faith -towards them, and done probably more than any other -Government ever did or would do to assist undertakings -of this or any other kind. Rashness, ignorance, and bad -advisers have led to most of their difficulties, and with -such proofs of the mismanagement of railway directors -on our home lines no one will be surprised at the unsuccessful -result of their management of lines abroad.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As an evidence that railways can be made and properly -managed by Brazilians I need only refer to the -Dom Pedro Segundo, a line quite as important as any in -the country. In separate chapters I have referred to -this railway, and also to that in the province of San -Paulo.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I believe it would be greatly to the advantage of the -rising generation in Brazil if the young men were trained -to become engineers, rather than lawyers or doctors, -with which the towns and cities swarm. Brazilians are -neither deficient in talent nor energy, if properly -brought out, and the employés of the Dom Pedro -Segundo are chiefly natives. The splendid road to -Juiz de Fora furnishes an example of this, and I regret -time did not permit me to make another visit there, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>which Senhor Mariano very kindly urged on me. Had -it not been for the heavy expenditure of the Paraguayan -war, the railway system of Brazil would doubtless have -been much more extensively developed, and the provincial -lines now in existence carried further into the -interior, as it is impossible the latter can ever be -productive of much revenue, or of much national benefit -until they are prolonged to the chief centres of cultivation, -which, as a general rule, lie upwards of one hundred -miles from the coast. The provinces of Pernambuco -and Bahia both attach great importance to railway -extension to the river San Francisco, but it does not -appear from the report of Captain Burton, who lately -explored that river, that it is likely to yield so much -traffic as is supposed. The want of population is the -great drawback to railways, and until this want can be -met by emigration of some kind, a large amount of -internal wealth must lie waste.</p> - -<p class='c000'>My long detention in the southern part of Brazil and -the River Plate prevented me visiting Bahia and Pernambuco, -and judging from personal observation as to -the state and condition of the railways there, or reporting -on the new tramway from Caxioera to the interior, which -promises to be of great utility to the country traversed -by it, as well as remunerative to the shareholders -interested in its future.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span> - <h2 class='c005'>COMMERCE OF BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>During the unfruitful dominion of Spain and Portugal, -commerce with South America was limited to the exchange -of commodities between the mother countries -and the populations planted in the New World revealed -to Europe by the daring genius of the great Genoese -navigator and those bold spirits who after him traversed -and explored strange oceans and seas unknown. The -Courts of Madrid and Lisbon adopted the most stringent -measures for the preservation of their monopoly and to -prevent commercial intercourse with their colonies by -the subjects of foreign States. So successful were the -means taken to this end that very little was known with -certainty in England concerning those immense regions -until after the War of Independence freed them from -the yoke under which they had so long groaned. I need -not in this place indicate all the causes that led to this -great revolution, but there can be no doubt the example -of our own American colonists and the principles -disseminated by the French Revolution exercised a -potential influence in stirring the South American communities -to liberate themselves from the oppressive -restrictions with which they were fettered.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The marauding exploits of Admiral Drake, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>rich prizes captured on the Spanish main, had given our -countrymen some notion of the incalculable wealth of -Chili and Peru, the Brazils, and the Rio de la Plata; -and their erection into separate and Sovereign States -was hailed as the advent of a new and prosperous era -for the commerce of both hemispheres. With a liberality -and promptitude which will always be remembered -by the various South American nations, the capitalists -of Britain responded to their demands for pecuniary -aid, and loans were freely subscribed to enable the enfranchised -peoples to establish popular self-government -upon solid bases. It may be said that this still remains -to be accomplished, and the frequently recurrent revolutions -in Bolivia and Peru, and in some others of the -nascent Republics, are certainly no manifestation of -executive stability; but it must not be forgotten that -their antecedents, under the Spanish and Portuguese -control, were not of a nature to fit them for a wise and -temperate exercise of political privileges. Year by -year, however, with the growth of intelligence and the -spread of education, the respective States are becoming -less subject to internal and civil convulsions; and in this -respect the rapid development of industrial and productive -activity gives promise of a still more satisfactory -condition of things in the proximate future.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Since the abrogation of the monopolies of Spain and -Portugal and the inauguration of free intercourse with -South America the commercial movements between that -part of the globe and the maritime nations of Europe -have assumed imposing proportions, and are every year -increasing in value and importance. As elsewhere, -England holds a high place both in the Pacific and -Atlantic markets, as an importer of products and an exporter -of manufactured goods. Our Board of Trade -<span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>Returns show the magnitude of British interests in those -countries, and the necessity that exists for promoting the -most cordial relations with the different Governments. -But at present I must confine my observations to -Brazil and the River Plate, and from a reference to the -returns in question it will be seen that the former is -our largest South American customer, taking commodities -to the annual value of £5,822,918, while we in -return receive Brazilian produce of the annual value of -£5,902,011. The River Plate comes next in order, taking -English goods of the annual value of £4,405,548, while -it sends to us produce worth £2,146,079. It will appear, -therefore, that the total movements between this country -and Brazil and the River Plate are respectively of the -yearly value of £11,724,929 and £6,545,627. And here -I may state, without going into particulars, that the -entire commercial movement between England and the -whole of South America reaches the no inconsiderable -sum of £34,566,405. The above returns are for the -year 1867.<a id='r6' /><a href='#f6' class='c010'><sup>[6]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c000'>The Board of Trade Returns, though they exhibit, in -figures surpassing eloquence in their convincing power, -the extensive character of our own trading relations -<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>with Brazil and the River Plate, of course convey only -a partial idea of the commercial activity of the countries -named.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Brazil and the Argentine Republic both carry on a -large business with other European nations. With regard -to the first it will be seen from the statistics we -quote below that the Empire has large transactions -with France and the Continent, as well as with the -United States, to which the bulk of her coffee crop is -shipped.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the Budget of last year, submitted to the National -Assembly by the then Finance Minister, Senhor Zacharias, -I find the following:—</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c021'> - <div>COMMERCE OF IMPORTATION, EXPORTATION, AND NAVIGATION.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The value of the import trade in 1866-67, according to the official -data in the treasury, was 143,483:745$; 22,503:313$, or 18.6 per -cent, more than the average of the five years 1861-2 to 1865-6, and -5,716:903$, or 4.1 per cent, more than 1865-6.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This importation took place in the various provinces in the following -proportion, which is compared with that of 1865-6:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <th class='c006'></th> - <th class='c018'>1865-66.</th> - <th class='c018'>1866-67.</th> - <th class='c019'>Over in '65-6.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Rio de Janeiro</td> - <td class='c017'>80,709:067$</td> - <td class='c017'>80,458:064$</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Bahia</td> - <td class='c017'>17,598:941</td> - <td class='c017'>17,878:203</td> - <td class='c007'>279:262$</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Pernambuco</td> - <td class='c017'>21,083:655</td> - <td class='c017'>22,211:290</td> - <td class='c007'>1,127:645</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Maranhao</td> - <td class='c017'>2,946:760</td> - <td class='c017'>4,028:383</td> - <td class='c007'>1,081:623</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Para</td> - <td class='c017'>4,613:218</td> - <td class='c017'>5,396:706</td> - <td class='c007'>783:488</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>S. Pedro</td> - <td class='c017'>6,514:928</td> - <td class='c017'>7,746:076</td> - <td class='c007'>1,231:144</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>S. Paulo</td> - <td class='c017'>1,295:948</td> - <td class='c017'>1,546:755</td> - <td class='c007'>250:807</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Parana</td> - <td class='c017'>154:083</td> - <td class='c017'>237:278</td> - <td class='c007'>83:195</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Parahyba</td> - <td class='c017'>26:067</td> - <td class='c017'>99:446</td> - <td class='c007'>73:379</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Ceara</td> - <td class='c017'>1,924:546</td> - <td class='c017'>2,586:973</td> - <td class='c007'>662:689</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Santa Catharina</td> - <td class='c017'>449:246</td> - <td class='c017'>630:912</td> - <td class='c007'>181:066</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Alagoas</td> - <td class='c017'>62:250</td> - <td class='c017'>219:537</td> - <td class='c007'>157:287</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Sergipe</td> - <td class='c017'>63:177</td> - <td class='c017'>17:390</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Espirito Santo</td> - <td class='c017'>1:209</td> - <td class='c017'>2:116</td> - <td class='c007'>907</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Rio Grande do Norte</td> - <td class='c017'>30:853</td> - <td class='c017'>171:654</td> - <td class='c007'>140:801</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Piauhy</td> - <td class='c017'>293:157</td> - <td class='c017'>252:957</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c017'>136,766:842</td> - <td class='c017'>143,483:745</td> - <td class='c007'>6,053:893</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>Diminutions occurred in Rio de Janeiro 251:003$, Sergipe 45:787$, -and Piauhy 40:209$; total, 336:990$.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The countries whence the importation came in 1866-67 were the -following:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Great Britain and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>58,276:905$783</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>United States</td> - <td class='c007'>4,300:628 878</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>France and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>22,023:196 953</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>La Plata</td> - <td class='c007'>12,325:712 734</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Portugal and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>5,580:451 780</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Hanseatic Cities</td> - <td class='c007'>4,340:509 479</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Spain and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>805:919 990</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Sweden</td> - <td class='c007'>222:194 583</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Denmark</td> - <td class='c007'>34:134 495</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Russia</td> - <td class='c007'>12:277 800</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Coast of Africa</td> - <td class='c007'>151:773 425</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Italy</td> - <td class='c007'>468:789 695</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Chili</td> - <td class='c007'>537:023 100</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Belgium</td> - <td class='c007'>1,333:855 778</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Austria</td> - <td class='c007'>910:268 440</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Holland</td> - <td class='c007'>3:017 850</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>China</td> - <td class='c007'>23:400 000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Peru</td> - <td class='c007'>680 000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Ports of the Mediterranean</td> - <td class='c007'>29:744 000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Ports of the Empire</td> - <td class='c007'>1,354:734 000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Fisheries</td> - <td class='c007'>1:381 200</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Ports not mentioned</td> - <td class='c007'>30,747:145 332</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c007'>143,483:745 290</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The value of the exports of native production and manufacture to -foreign countries was in 1866-67 156,020:906$, 21,516:502$, or 15.9 -per cent. more than the average of the five years 1861-2 to 1865-6, -and less by 1,066:652$ or O.67 per cent. than in 1865-6.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The countries whither the exports of 1866-7 went were the -following:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Russia</td> - <td class='c007'>460:660$717</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Sweden</td> - <td class='c007'>773:111 068</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Holland</td> - <td class='c007'>80:356 944</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Hanseatic Cities</td> - <td class='c007'>4,816:242 458</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Great Britain and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>37,283:974 040</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>France and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>18,582:278 631</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Spain and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>165:387 149</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Portugal and possessions</td> - <td class='c007'>4,347:275 259</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'><span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>Belgium</td> - <td class='c007'>328:0485$841</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Austria</td> - <td class='c007'>61:381 600</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Italy</td> - <td class='c007'>734:400 624</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Chili</td> - <td class='c007'>414:903 411</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>United States</td> - <td class='c007'>31,188:066 047</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>La Plata</td> - <td class='c007'>7,014:207 881</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Turkey</td> - <td class='c007'>149:347 716</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Denmark</td> - <td class='c007'>913:630 980</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Coast of Africa</td> - <td class='c007'>448:869 272</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Channel</td> - <td class='c007'>16,511:659 000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ports of the Baltic and Mediterranean</td> - <td class='c007'>1,363:562 864</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ports not known</td> - <td class='c007'>30,335:659 000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Consumption</td> - <td class='c007'>42:642 178</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c007'>156,020:906 766</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The total of the direct importation and the national exportation -abroad was in:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>1866-67</td> - <td class='c007'>299,504:651</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Compared with 1865-66, namely</td> - <td class='c007'>294,854:400</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>There was an augment of</td> - <td class='c007'>4,650:251</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Or 1.5 per cent., and, if compared with the average of 1861-2 to 1865-6, namely</td> - <td class='c007'>255,483:836</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>There was an increase of 44,020:815, or 17.2 per cent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The value of the importation with certificate (<span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">carta de guia</span>) was -in 1865-67 24,902:670$, 823:969$, or 3.4 per cent. more than in -1865-6, 2,448:821$, or 12.6 per cent. more than the average of the -five years 1861-2 to 1865-6.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The re-exportation in 1866-7 rose to 1,786:052$, 447:993$, or 33.4 -per cent. more than in 1865-6, and 377:686$, or 26.8, than the average -of 1861-2 to 1865-6.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The number of national and foreign vessels cleared in the foreign -trade of 1866-7 was:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Entered</td> - <td class='c022'>3,439 vessels</td> - <td class='c022'>1,245,214 tons</td> - <td class='c023'>51,450 men.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Sailed</td> - <td class='c022'>2,429 vessels</td> - <td class='c022'>1,496,274[A] tons</td> - <td class='c023'>49,655 men.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>Including nationals:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Entered</td> - <td class='c022'>255 vessels</td> - <td class='c022'>43,579 tons</td> - <td class='c023'>1,953 men.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Sailed</td> - <td class='c022'>209 vessels</td> - <td class='c022'>47,703<a id='r7' /><a href='#f7' class='c010'><sup>[7]</sup></a> tons</td> - <td class='c023'>2,174 men.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>The products of Brazil are very varied, but the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>principal articles, and the relative positions they occupy -in the commerce of the country, will be seen by the -estimated quantity and value of the exports from Rio -de Janeiro for 1867, as stated in the Official Report to -our Foreign Office by Mr. Pakenham:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>Quantity.</td> - <td class='c007'>Value.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Coffee</td> - <td class='c018'>lbs.</td> - <td class='c017'>424,532,680</td> - <td class='c007'>£8,776,590</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Sugar</td> - <td class='c018'>lbs.</td> - <td class='c017'>8,980,960</td> - <td class='c007'>106,752</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Cotton</td> - <td class='c018'>lbs.</td> - <td class='c017'>9,240,000</td> - <td class='c007'>350,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Rum</td> - <td class='c018'>pipes</td> - <td class='c017'>3,865</td> - <td class='c007'>40,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Salted hides</td> - <td class='c018'>pipes</td> - <td class='c017'>4,200,000</td> - <td class='c007'>57,540</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Dry hides</td> - <td class='c018'>pipes</td> - <td class='c017'>250,000</td> - <td class='c007'>8,250</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Tapioca</td> - <td class='c018'>barrels</td> - <td class='c017'>11,294</td> - <td class='c007'>25,066</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Horns</td> - <td class='c018'>barrels</td> - <td class='c017'>116,860</td> - <td class='c007'>1,519</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Tobacco</td> - <td class='c018'>bales</td> - <td class='c017'>51,615</td> - <td class='c007'>154,845</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Diamonds</td> - <td class='c018'><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">oitavas</span></td> - <td class='c017'>5,704</td> - <td class='c007'>37,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'>£9,558,287</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The exports from Pernambuco, Para, Bahia, Santos, and Rio -Grande do Sul during the same period amount to about £7,000,000.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mr. Pakenham, in the same report, also remarks:—“The -Brazilian imports and exports for the last year -for which there are Customs statistics amounted to -£14,348,374 for imports, and to £15,607,090 for -exports, and the total commercial movement with -foreign countries had then increased 17 per cent. on -the average of the preceding five years.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>The trade statistics of the Argentine Republic are -quite as encouraging as those of its Imperial ally. I -have before me a valuable communication of Mr. Daniel -Maxwell, of Buenos Ayres, addressed to the Sociedade -Rural Argentina, in which he makes the following comparative -statements as to the exports of produce during -the periods mentioned:—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='44%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <th class='c022'></th> - <th class='c018'>From 1858 to 1862.</th> - <th class='c019'>From 1862 to 1867.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Dry Ox and Cow Hides</td> - <td class='c017'>5,554,417</td> - <td class='c007'>6,798,152</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Salted Ox and Cow Hides</td> - <td class='c017'>1,972,755</td> - <td class='c007'>2,325,084</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'><span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>Dry Horse Hides</td> - <td class='c017'>305,057</td> - <td class='c007'>197,264</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Salted Horse Hides</td> - <td class='c017'>780,190</td> - <td class='c007'>617,945</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Bales of Wool</td> - <td class='c017'>251,191</td> - <td class='c007'>608,706</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">Bolsas</span> of Wool</td> - <td class='c017'>7,456</td> - <td class='c007'>9,517</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>With the exception of horse hides these figures manifest -a very material and striking augmentation in the productive -energy of the Republic. The proportionate -distribution is shown in the annexed tables:—</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>DRY OX, COW, AND HORSE HIDES.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='44%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <th class='c022'></th> - <th class='c018'>From 1858 to 1862.</th> - <th class='c019'>From 1862 to 1867.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Great Britain</td> - <td class='c017'>.233</td> - <td class='c007'>2.816</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>France</td> - <td class='c017'>11.936</td> - <td class='c007'>8.054</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Belgium, Holland, and Germany</td> - <td class='c017'>25.847</td> - <td class='c007'>11.585</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>United States</td> - <td class='c017'>29.029</td> - <td class='c007'>48.904</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Italy</td> - <td class='c017'>12.844</td> - <td class='c007'>10.562</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Spain</td> - <td class='c017'>18.011</td> - <td class='c007'>17.985</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Sweden and Norway</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'>.094</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'>100.000</td> - <td class='c007'>100.000</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>SALTED OX, COW, AND HORSE HIDES.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='44%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <th class='c022'></th> - <th class='c018'>From 1858 to 1862.</th> - <th class='c019'>From 1862 to 1867.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Great Britain</td> - <td class='c017'>63.123</td> - <td class='c007'>45.484</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>France</td> - <td class='c017'>12.592</td> - <td class='c007'>14.533</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Belgium, Holland, and Germany</td> - <td class='c017'>17.873</td> - <td class='c007'>31.807</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>United States</td> - <td class='c017'>2.626</td> - <td class='c007'>1.889</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Italy</td> - <td class='c017'>3.482</td> - <td class='c007'>4.893</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Spain</td> - <td class='c017'>6.304</td> - <td class='c007'>.408</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Sweden and Norway</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'>.914</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'>100.000</td> - <td class='c007'>100.000</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>WOOLS.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='44%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -<col width='27%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <th class='c022'></th> - <th class='c018'>From 1858 to 1862.</th> - <th class='c019'>From 1862 to 1867.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Great Britain</td> - <td class='c017'>10.273</td> - <td class='c007'>7.235</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>France</td> - <td class='c017'>27.508</td> - <td class='c007'>25.109</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Belgium, Holland, and Germany</td> - <td class='c017'>39.784</td> - <td class='c007'>45.433</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>United States</td> - <td class='c017'>21.083</td> - <td class='c007'>20.340</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Italy</td> - <td class='c017'>1.303</td> - <td class='c007'>1.766</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'><span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>Spain</td> - <td class='c017'>.039</td> - <td class='c007'>.030</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Sweden and Norway</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'>.087</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'>100.000</td> - <td class='c007'>100.000</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>The number of sheep skins exported from 1858 to -1862 was 8,705,883 against 20,776,898 from 1862 -to 1867; and with respect to the wool exported it may -be desirable to explain that a bale of wool usually -contains 34 arrobas, and that four <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">bolsas</span></i> or <em>chiguas</em> are -equivalent to a bale. According to this calculation, the -export of wool from 1858 to 1862 reached 8,705,883 -arrobas against 20,776,898 arrobas from 1862 to 1867.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The war with Paraguay, though it has undoubtedly -pressed upon the financial resources of the Republic, -has in no manner arrested its commercial, industrial, -and fiscal progress. This is very clearly apparent from -statistics furnished by his Excellency Don Norberto de -la Riestra in connection with the issue of the recent -Argentine loan contracted in this country to cover the -balance of the extraordinary expenditure caused by the -protracted struggle with Lopez. I quote as follows -from the document referred to, the value of which will -be obvious:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The official value of the foreign trade of the Republic through the -port of Buenos Ayres alone in 1865 was as follows:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Imports</td> - <td class='c007'>£5,420,603</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Exports</td> - <td class='c007'>4,399,355</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c007'>£9,819,958</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>In 1866 it was:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Imports</td> - <td class='c007'>£6,453,817</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Exports</td> - <td class='c007'>4,605,942</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c007'>£11,059,759</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The real value of the aggregate trade for 1866, including the -other ports of the Republic, cannot be estimated at less than -£16,000,000, and has continued since to augment.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>The declared value of produce and manufactures exported from -the United Kingdom to the Republic in 1867 has amounted to -£2,838,037, taking in this respect the lead of all the other South -American States, Brazil only excepted.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The export of wool, which is the staple article, from the port of -Buenos Ayres alone was as follows:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Season 1863-64</td> - <td class='c007'>77,343,200 lbs.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Season 1864-65</td> - <td class='c007'>104,688,000 lbs.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Season 1865-66</td> - <td class='c007'>120,362,400 lbs.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>and the same progressive increase is observable in the other productions -of the country.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Referring to Brazil, every Parisian luxury is found -in the cities, Rio de Janeiro being full of French shops, -and the Rua d'Ouvidor, one of its principal streets, is -almost exclusively French. Of course many important -trades and industrial occupations are carried on, and in -particular the manufacture of carriages, which equal in -elegance and solidity those of any country in Europe. -Iron foundries, iron ship-building, and other useful -establishments also exist; but there are few cotton, -woollen, or silk manufactories. Therefore the commerce -of Brazil is almost entirely one of exchange.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As regards the River Plate, a large trade is maintained -with France, Belgium, and other parts of Europe, -where River Plate produce is extensively consumed. -It is only necessary to look at the manner in which the -ladies of Monte Video and Buenos Ayres dress to form -an idea of the extent of French imports to those places. -There are no manufactories in the River Plate beyond -such as have been specified in regard to Brazil, carriage -making being equally conspicuous.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is a feature in the Board of Trade Returns that -Paraguay, which has of late years caused such a noise -in the world, makes no figure whatever. Now of course -it is under blockade, but previous to that event the -figures were almost <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">nil</span></i>. Had the ruler of that country -<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>used his energies to produce and export 5,000 bales of -cotton annually, for which article the land and climate -are admirably adapted, what would have been the state -and condition of Paraguay at the present moment? It -is not requisite to enlarge on such a topic.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Whilst adverting to the commerce of these countries, -and to their internal wealth, their mineral products must -not be left out of sight, and in this respect Brazil -possesses a great superiority from the steady working -of her gold and diamond mines, which have always been -a source of considerable revenue, even though they are -probably not yet very perfectly explored. To do this -it requires a large outlay of money and the enterprise -of private individuals or public companies. Formerly -the mines were worked exclusively for the Crown.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Argentine Republic has not yet given much -signs of mineral activity, but there can be no doubt -gold exists, as well as silver, in the Andine Provinces, -and when the railway is carried on to Cordova we may -hear a good deal more of the San Juan silver mines, to -the development of which Major Rickards has devoted -himself for so many years.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the Banda Oriental gold has long been known to -exist in the mountains of Canapiru, and the indefatigable -Mr. Bankhart has succeeded in forming a company -of Monte Videan shareholders to operate there. -He is now in England obtaining the needful machinery -and securing workmen for the mines. If successful it -will be a great boon to the country, and may assist in -providing a future metallic currency, from lack of which -things now appear to be at a deadlock.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It will be seen from this short summary how closely -our commercial interests are identified with those of the -countries referred to, and how desirable it is, as at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>present, that the most friendly relations should be -maintained with them. Nor are these likely to be again -disturbed. In every port and city in South America -are to be found British merchants and representatives -of the country, the latter placed there, not, as previously, -with a view to cavil, find fault, and threaten, but to see -fair play and justice impartially administered to British -subjects. The doctrine of non-interference in the -political squabbles of other countries is now generally -adopted, diplomatic meddlers are discouraged, and the -post of foreign minister in South America is much more -agreeable than formerly.</p> - -<hr class='c012' /> - -<div class='footnote' id='f6'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. </span>It may be interesting to show the progressive nature of them by taking -the Board of Trade figures in connection with those countries for the -previous four years as follows:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <th class='c006'>Brazil—</th> - <th class='c018'>Imports.</th> - <th class='c018'>Exports.</th> - <th class='c019'>Total.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1863</td> - <td class='c017'>£4,491,000</td> - <td class='c017'>4,082,641</td> - <td class='c007'>8,573,641</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1864</td> - <td class='c017'>7,021,121</td> - <td class='c017'>6,369,359</td> - <td class='c007'>13,400,480</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1865</td> - <td class='c017'>6,797,241</td> - <td class='c017'>5,771,024</td> - <td class='c007'>12,468,265</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1866</td> - <td class='c017'>7,237,793</td> - <td class='c017'>7,358,141</td> - <td class='c007'>14,595,934</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <th class='c006'>River Plate—</th> - <th class='c017'> </th> - <th class='c017'> </th> - <th class='c007'> </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1863</td> - <td class='c017'>£2,460,280</td> - <td class='c017'>1,897,164</td> - <td class='c007'>3,357,444</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1864</td> - <td class='c017'>2,285,486</td> - <td class='c017'>2,788,653</td> - <td class='c007'>5,074,139</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1865</td> - <td class='c017'>2,263,540</td> - <td class='c017'>2,824,823</td> - <td class='c007'>5,088,363</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>1866</td> - <td class='c017'>2,613,263</td> - <td class='c017'>4,250,470</td> - <td class='c007'>6,863,733</td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f7'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. </span>The “sailed” are <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">toneladas</span> of 1,728 lbs.</p> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE RIVER AMAZON.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>As it has not been my good fortune to visit this mighty -stream, I cannot, of course, speak of it from personal -experience, but the Amazon is exciting so much attention -in various parts of the world in consequence of the -late voyage of Professor Agassiz that a brief notice may -not be out of place here.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Most persons have read Mr. Bates' very interesting -work, “The Naturalist on the Amazon,” in which he has -described in so graphic a manner the wonders of that -country in the shape of animal and vegetable life. -Since it was written a great change has taken place in -the future prospects of the Amazon by the politic step -of the Brazilian Government in throwing open its -waters to the flags of all nations, from which will result -much valuable information, if it is not immediately -followed by commercial progress to the extent that -some sanguine writers have foretold. This act has -called forth in Europe and America the most gratifying -tributes in commendation of the unselfish attitude thus -assumed by Brazil towards the commerce of the world. -The American journals are especially unstinted in their -praise. With regard to the probable consequences of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>this measure one writer, the Rev. J. C. Fletcher, states -as follows:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The opening of the Amazon, which occurred on the 7th of -September, 1867, and by which the great river is free to the flags of -all nations from the Atlantic to Peru, and the abrogation of the -monopoly of the coast trade from the Amazon to the Rio Grande do -Sul, whereby 4,000 miles of Brazilian sea coast are open to the -vessels of every country, cannot fail not only to develop the resources -of Brazil, but will prove of great benefit to the bordering Hispano-American -Republics and to the maritime nations of the earth. The -opening of the Amazon is the most significant indication that the -leven of the narrow monopolistic Portuguese conservatism has at -last worked out. Portugal would not allow Humboldt to enter the -Amazon valley in Brazil. The result of the new policy is beyond -the most sanguine expectation. The exports and imports for Para -for October and November, 1867 were double those of 1866. This -is but the beginning. Soon it will be found that it is cheaper for -Bolivia, Peru, Equador, and New Granada east of the Andes to -receive their goods from and to export their indiarubber, chincona, -&c., to the United States and Europe <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">via</span></i> the great water highway -which discharges into the Atlantic than by the long, circuitous route -of Cape Horn, or the Trans-Isthmian route of Panama. The Purus -and the Madeira are hereafter to be navigated by steamers. The -valley of the Amazon in Brazil is as large as the area of the United -States east of Colorado, while the valley of the Amazon in and out -of Brazil is equal to all the United States east of California, Oregon, -and Washington territory, and yet the population is not equal to -the single city of Rio de Janeiro or the combined inhabitants of -Boston and Chicago. It is estimated that a larger population can -be sustained in the valley of the Amazon than elsewhere on the -globe.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Explorations have already been commenced by enterprising -men from the Southern States of America, who -have no doubt of the adaptability of the soil and of the -climate on the banks of this noble stream for all the productions -of the torrid zone. One of these pioneers, Mr. -John W. Dowsing, has lately presented a most interesting -report, with respect to the resources of Para, to his -Excellency the President of that important province:—</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>May it please your Excellency, I herewith have the honour to -submit a succinct Report of a recent exploration of a portion of the -valley of the Amazon, and some of the tributaries of the Amazon -river, by me, accompanied by Captain John B. Jones, George M. -Sandidge, Charles H. Mallory, and Charles M. Broom, and all under -the patronage of the Imperial Government of Brazil.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In accordance with instructions from the Minister of Agriculture -to your Excellency, I was furnished with transportation, and one -<span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">conto of reis</span> to defray incidental expenses, and letters to various -officials within the Province of Para to facilitate my explorations -and secure as far as practicable every information I might desire in -regard to the country, in order that I might more fully report to -those of my countrymen in the United States who are now deeply -interested in emigration.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Myself and party, consisting of the four above-named gentlemen, -left Belem on the 9th of November, 1867, on board the steamer -Soure for Cameta on the Rio Tocantins. After several days' preparation -we ascended that river nearly to the falls; returning we -ascended the Amazon and Tapajoz rivers to the town of Santarem -and surrounding country, thence to the contiguous islands and up -the Tapajoz, thence up the Amazon river to its junction with the -Rio Negro to the city of Manaos.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From Manaos we made several excursions into the country. It -was my purpose to go to Rio Branco, but utterly failing to obtain -transportation, after remaining twenty-two days, I changed my -course to Rio Matary and the lakes into which it leads.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The information I obtained at the various places visited would -doubtless be of great utility to the commercial world. It would -open up a new market for the various productions, and new fields -for the employment of industry.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The trade up the valley of the Amazon, upon the great river -and its numerous tributaries, is very considerable. Its full extent -and value does not appear in the published statistics of your -commerce.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The trade up this magnificent valley is susceptible of almost -unlimited expansion. It stands alone in the inconceivable grandeur -of its capabilities and the wonderful sublimity of its future -destinies.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This magnificent valley, with its wonderful and inexhaustible -resources, will form a great avenue of commercial communication -between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. It is an immense -prolific theatre for the formation of colonies. There is no doubt -<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>but that the best route for many manufactures from Europe and -North America to Peru is through the valley of the Amazon. The -productions of this wonderful valley are necessarily very diversified. -They include all the tropical vegetables and fruits, many kinds of -furniture and dyewoods, many medicinal drugs, and in the -elevated lands it is peculiarly rich in minerals. The great staples -exported in which the commercial world is interested are indiarubber, -cacao, sarsaparilla, tobacco, hides salted and green, various -vegetable oils, cotton, deer skins, isinglass, <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">urucu</span>, rice, &c., &c.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The general surface of a great portion of the Province of Para is -even and undulating while it is diversified with many rich campos -and numerous beautiful lakes and streams, filled with every variety -of fish and turtle. Elevated lands, rising here and there, impart -variety, grandeur, and picturesque beauty to its scenery.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To expatiate upon the beauty, capabilities, and resources of the -numerous streams tributary to the great basin of the Amazon, the -country margining these streams, the general characteristics of the -inhabitants, &c., would invite and justify a voluminous report. I -will content myself, however, with a few reflections upon the brilliant -future that awaits this favoured country.</p> - -<p class='c011'>My investigations disclose that the valley of the Amazon is one -immense forest of valuable timber, woods of the finest grain, and -susceptible of the highest polish: adapted to cabinet purposes. For -building vessels there is no woods on the earth equal to those grown -in the valley of the Amazon.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This is the country for indiarubber, sarsaparilla, balsam, copaiba, -gum <span lang="es" xml:lang="es">copal</span>, animal and vegetable wax, cocoa, <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">castanha</span> nuts, -sapucaia nuts, tonka beans, ginger, black pepper, arrowroot, annetto, -indigo, dyes of the gayest colours, and drugs of rarest medicinal -virtues.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These immense forests are filled with game, and all the rivers and -lakes are filled with fish and turtle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The climate of this country is salubrious and the temperature -most agreeable. The direct rays of the sun are tempered by a constant -east wind, laden with moisture from the ocean, so that one -never suffers from either heat or cold. I found the nights invariably -cool enough to use blankets. With the succulent tropical fruits, the -great variety of game, and the salubrious climate, this country is a -paradise for the indolent man; for here he can maintain life almost -without an effort.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The geographical position of Belem gives it many advantages. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>It is in the direct route of vessels to or from European and North -American ports and the Pacific and Indian oceans. Therefore this -city could be made a half way station for vessels thus bound to -receive orders.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With an interior river navigation of many thousands of miles, -with a soil of great fertility, and a climate which allows tropical -vegetation to develop itself in all its luxuriance, with varied and -inexhaustible mineral wealth, the Provinces of Para and Amazonas -are specially marked out by nature to become the most wealthy -country on the globe.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Belem possesses the requisites for carrying on commerce on an -extensive scale. The right steps have been adopted in inaugurating -and securing a general commercial system for Belem by the establishment -of the Amazon Steamship Company.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In order to build up this city and country, and make it what the -future determines it to be, the mineral and agricultural resources -must be developed.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The slave population is being rapidly diminished by the war with -Paraguay and self-emancipation. How is this labour to be re-supplied? -It can only be done by the immigration of the hard working, -industrious yeomanry of the United States and Europe. The surplus -population of Europe and the disaffected citizens in the Southern -portion of the United States will find their way to this immediate -section of the country.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The great exodus will as naturally flow into the vast arable area -of the valley of the Amazon as did the tribes of Asia flow into Europe -through the passes of the Caucausus.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Every advancing wave of population will lift higher and higher -the gathering flood of human life, which the moment it commences -to press upon the means of subsistence in their respective countries -must pour all of its vast tide of human beings into the great valley -of the Amazon, and will eventually unite in one living chain of industrial -life the waters of the Atlantic with the Pacific.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This country as yet is but a wilderness, but the inexorable laws of -civilisation will at no distant day thread the labyrinthian mazes of -this immensely fertile valley, and when teeming with industrious -life it will pour into the coffers of this Empire untold wealth, thereby -giving this portion of the Imperial Government a significance second -to no portion of the earth.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rich natural and agricultural productions of this valley must -be poured out to the balance of the world. Upon the banks of each -of the tributaries of the mighty Amazon city after city will as by -<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>enchantment arise to export the productions of the soil of this -favoured country. The valley of the Amazon is yet to exercise a -powerful influence on the political destinies of this Empire.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The future destiny of this valley is to be a glorious one; and fortunate -the descendants of those who may now obtain a foothold and -interest upon this soil. As already indicated the true elements of -future greatness lie in the substratum of industry. The valley of -the Amazon must have labour to develop its resources. The cities -of North America and Europe are crowded with young men seeking -employment.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The offices of European Consuls in the United States are crowded -with foreigners, who have exhausted their last cent and are seeking -for any kind of work.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Let them come to the valley of the Amazon with agricultural -implements and obtain a home upon these fertile lands. Those who -are lingering around the crowded seaports of poverty and vice, -having no chance with others in the great world, should turn their -attention to the valley of the Amazon, where a free homestead upon -rich lands and with salubrious climate can be obtained.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The prosperity of this country is the future welfare of all civilised -nations. This country has everything to hope for; nature has not -been unmindful of its most precious gifts to this land.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the selection of lands, upon which it is my purpose to establish -a colony, I will be governed by the advantages offered by the lands -at Brigança over those explored. If the lands at Brigança are well -watered and rich its accessibility will decide me.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The migration to Brazil of energetic and agricultural -population from the former Confederate States of North -America is still going on, and may produce hereafter -a most beneficial effect on the destinies of the Empire. -On this topic General Hawthorn and Mr. W. T. Moore -have addressed some interesting remarks to the Brazilian -Minister of Agriculture. The following is the -concluding paragraphs of the communication to which -I refer:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The people of the South must emigrate but how, and where to? -These are questions that may well engage the earnest attention of -every Government that desires to increase the number of its good -and loyal citizens. Though there may be a few unworthy persons -<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>claiming to be from the late Confederate States who have imposed -and forced their lazy carcases and worthless habits upon this kind -and liberal Government, we desire to say in the most emphatic and -unequivocal terms that the great body of the Southern people are -not professional emigrants, who systematically cringe the knee and -hypocritically kiss the feet of every monarch that will scatter among -them the crumbs of charity; on the contrary, they are the remnants -of a gallant race, who, having struggled in vain to save their country -from destruction and themselves from slavery, will like Æneas and -his Trojan followers gather round them their aged fathers and -mothers, their wives, their children, their household gods, and, -emigrating to some foreign land, lend their powerful aid in building -up the country of their adoption and pushing it forward to a conspicuous -place in the front rank of nations.</p> - -<p class='c011'>They will carry with them their statesmen, their orators, and -their men of science, and though they may carry little gold and -silver, and but a few of this world's goods, yet they will carry with -them rich stores of great and active thought, vast mines of unflagging -energy and industry, immense treasures of practical and -scientific knowledge in planting, navigation, commerce, and the fine -arts. They will carry with them stout hearts, untarnished honour, -and unconquered manhood; but above all, for that Government -which shall now extend its liberal hand and relieve them in this their -hour of need, they will cherish that unshaken fidelity and loyalty -that will uphold and maintain it in its prosperity and rally around -and die for it whenever its day of trial and danger comes. They are -a race that have won imperishable honours in every walk of life, -and upon every field of action that has ever been opened to human -enterprise, and wherever they go in large bodies they cannot fail to -add wealth to the coffers and prosperity to the land of their -adoption.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Having adopted Brazil as our future home, and believing as we do -that it is better adapted to the wants of our people than any other -country upon earth, we should rejoice to see the good and true -people of the South emigrate in masses to this wonderful country. -Hence our anxiety that this Government should fully understand -the character, the capacities, and the habits of the Southern people. -Since we have been in Brazil we have reflected deeply upon this -subject, and the result of our observations and reflections is that the -people of the late Confederate States, being, as they are, strangers -to the language, habits, and customs of this country, cannot be completely -prosperous or contented here unless they settle in colonies -<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>by themselves, and that too upon a scale sufficiently large to carry -on successfully all the various trades and professions, to have their -own schools and churches, in short, to relieve them from the necessity -of learning a foreign language before obtaining complete success -in their agricultural, manufacturing, or mercantile operations. We -are also deeply impressed with the belief that in order to a full -development of their energies as a people and a successful renewal -of those glorious triumphs in every art and science that once rendered -them so illustrious, it is necessary they should be left as free -and untrammelled in their action as the safety and dignity of an -enlightened and liberal Government will admit. We therefore -respectfully suggest that (as an inducement for this heroic people -to emigrate to Brazil in one vast body, bringing with them their -greatest, their wisest, and their best men; bringing with them their -household goods,<a id='p192'></a> their customs, their manners, their indomitable -energy and unflinching courage; but above all, bringing in their -bosoms the bright hope that their race is not yet run, but that a -brilliant and a glorious future awaits them here) the Government -cause to be set apart and reserved for their settlement and use large -bodies of the public lands, which may be selected by judicious and -intelligent men; that these lands be surveyed as occasion may -require, and sold in limited quantities, at fixed uniform rates, to -that people alone, or to such as they may desire to settle in their -midst; and that they be allowed full and complete religious toleration, -as also the full rights of citizenship, whenever they shall take -the oath of allegiance to the Government; that each of these colonies, -including such as are already established, as well as those that may -be established hereafter, be made a congressional, military, and -judicial district, which, when it shall have the requisite number of -inhabitants, shall be entitled to representatives in the national and -provincial assemblies, chosen from among themselves; that so far as -possible all their officers placed immediately over them be men -speaking their own language, and familiar with their customs and -manners; that all professional men among them who shall produce -satisfactory evidence of good character and a reputable practice in -the land from which they came be permitted to practice their respective -professions within the limits of the said colonies, without -having to undergo rigorous examinations in a foreign language; in -short, that every liberal concession be made that a true and loyal -people could ask, or a wise and generous Government could grant.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Your Excellency need not fear the result. Ours is not a race -<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>that breeds either traitors or cowards. When we have once plighted -our faith, dangers cannot weaken nor bayonets break its clasp. -Every liberal concession which a generous prince may grant, or an -enlightened people sanction, will but strengthen our loyalty and -increase our gratitude. We sincerely trust that your Excellency -will live to see the day when Brazil, renovated and strengthened by -the infusion of this great Southern element, will assume among the -nations of the earth the very first place in prosperity, glory, and -power, as she now holds the first in charity and true kindness to a -brave but unfortunate people.</p> - -<p class='c000'>That the policy of the Brazilian Government with -regard to her territories on the Amazon is in the right -direction no one can deny, and it is in striking contrast -with the proceedings of the ruler of Paraguay, who -could, in the erection of his formidable strongholds, have -had no other object in view than that of impeding, if he -did not absolutely obstruct, the passage of the River -Paraguay. Paraguayan advocates have, indeed, endeavoured -to show that the opening of the Amazon by -Brazil was solely dictated by self-interested motives, -but let the world look at the facts and judge accordingly.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Many years back the Government largely subsidised -a steam company to navigate on the Amazon, which it -continues to support notwithstanding the pressure of -financial difficulties. This company goes on prospering, -and adding to its fleet, and will now be still more useful -in assisting foreigners to pioneer their way. Thus the -country can be explored and settlements made. It is -gratifying to hear the climate of the Amazon so favourably -spoken of in the reports I have inserted, as at one -time it was feared this would be a barrier to successful -emigration. The emphatic language of the writers is not -to be mistaken, and the Government of Brazil will do well -to afford to the active and go-a-head Anglo-Saxon race -every possible encouragement in their emigration work.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>The city of Para is admirably placed and its trade -has largely augmented of late. In fact, it promises ere -long to become the emporium of the northern commerce -of Brazil as Rio de Janeiro is of the southern, and when -we glance over the map, and see the enormous tributaries -of the Amazon extending as far as the waters of -the great La Plata itself, it is difficult to say what new -sources of wealth may not be opened up from the -countries through which these rivers flow. There are -natural obstructions to be overcome, and tribes of -Indians to be encountered, but the strong arm and the -willing heart can conquer these difficulties, clearing -their pathway through the forests to the fertile plains -beyond.</p> - -<p class='c000'>But little is yet known as to the Indian tribes -scattered over the immense valley of the Amazon and -its tributaries. That they are not numerous, however, -is pretty certain, nor can they offer much resistance to -the advance of the white man, when once the tide of -emigration to that country is fairly set in. It would, -of course, be politic to conciliate and make friends -of the aborigines, but circumstances do not appear -favourable to such an arrangement.</p> - -<p class='c000'>By a recent Rio paper it appears that a lightship -is shortly to be placed at the entrance to Para, and that -it had been successfully experimented upon outside the -port of Santa Cruz in the presence of the Emperor.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Alluding again to Professor Agassiz, I have had the -pleasure of perusing his valuable narrative, which, although -containing much matter only of interest to -naturalists and scientific people, conveys at the same time -a wonderful amount of practical information, and from -which a pretty correct idea may be formed of the -probable or speculative future of the Amazon valley.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>The Amazon, I may just observe, flows through the -territory of the Empire for a distance of upwards of -500 leagues, and in its course towards the ocean receives -no fewer than eighteen affluents of the first magnitude. -The names are as follows: From the south, the Xingú, -Tapajoz, Madeira, Purus, Coary, Teffé, Myuruá, Hyutuby, -and Hyavary; and from the north, the Sary, Peru, -Trombetas, Nhamunda, Uatuman, Uruba, Negro, Hyupurá, -and Iça. These rivers, from above the falls which -exist on the boundaries of the provinces of Para and -Amazonas, are collectively navigable by steamers for -7,351 leagues, not going outside the Imperial territorial -limits. In this total, navigation on the Amazon proper -figures for 580 leagues; that on the basins of the -principal affluents for 5,771 leagues; and that on the -lesser tributaries, lakes, and canals for 1,000 leagues.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As I have already remarked the Amazonian network -of navigable streams reaches to within a little of the -La Plata riverine system. The sources of the Tapajoz, -flowing into the Amazon, are only separated by an inconsiderable -strip of land from those of the Paraguay, -flowing into the River Plate, and were these two rivers -connected by artificial means an immense section of the -South American Continent would be insulated by ocean -and fluvial waters. This great work may probably -remain undone for many years to come, but that it will -be eventually accomplished I do not at all doubt. The -progress of commerce and the development of enterprise -in these countries clearly point to the ultimate realisation -of this magnificent result.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Before passing to other topics, I will briefly notice -another noble river of Brazil—the San Francisco—which -traverses the central portion of the Empire, and -waters the extensive and important provinces of Minas -<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>Geraes, Bahia, Pernambuco, Alagoas, and Sergipe. The -Rio das Velhas, Rio Verde, Rio Grande, and the Paracatu -are amongst its tributaries, and are all of them -streams which in Europe would be regarded as of very -superior size. The San Francisco is notable for its -famous falls of Paulo Affonso, which witnesses of both -have pronounced to greatly excel those of Niagara in -their imposing majesty and grandeur. Above these -falls there is an uninterrupted navigation of about 230 -leagues, and below to the mouth, nearly 50 leagues, -there is not the slightest obstruction to vessels of -respectable tonnage.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A large part of the immense basin of the Paraguay, -in the River Plate, also belongs to Brazil, in whose -territories most of the principal rivers of that system -have their origin; and numerous other streams, of more -or less consequence, permeate different parts of the -Empire on their way to the sea. Several of these are -capable of navigation by steamers for at least 100 -leagues.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span> - <h2 class='c005'>TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATION.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The North American Continent has now for some time -past been linked to Europe by the electric wire, inaugurating -what may almost be termed a new era of -civilisation; and the fact of laying the cable will live in -history as long as the name of the leviathan ship through -whose medium this great result was accomplished.</p> - -<p class='c000'>South America has yet to depend solely upon steam -communication, but doubtless the means of magnetic -intercourse will soon be supplied. Already a rival -company has been formed to lay down a cable from -Brest to America under privileges obtained from the -French and American Governments, and the great ship, -with her gallant commander, Sir James Anderson, is -again to be called into requisition. It is very desirable -that extra cables should be laid in case of accident to -those at present existing.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I had hoped on my arrival home to find a company -organised and a cable about to be laid from Falmouth -to Portugal and the Azores, for which a concession had -been obtained by Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott; but -it appears that the stupidity of the Cortes prevented -this important line being carried out—important to the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>world and to Portugal in particular, as it would have -rendered that country the great centre of telegraphic -communication, not only with her own islands, but also -with North and South America, to which it was intended -the line should eventually be carried. There would -also have been a large and lucrative business between -England and Lisbon, in connection with the mail -steamers to and from Brazil, which at present is carried -on under great disadvantage through Spain. Portugal -and Spain are sadly in arrear as regards commercial -progress and advancement, and Messrs. Rumball and -Medlicott experienced the same fate as the South -Eastern of Portugal Railway, which, though the -Government had agreed to take it over, on equitable -terms, the Cortes refused to ratify the agreement. -All Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott required was an -alteration in the law which prevented the Government -granting concessions for more than twenty -years. The concessionaries asked for ninety-nine -years, which ought to have been readily granted, seeing -the manifest advantage to Portugal of establishing such -a facility for communication; but no, these <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">pés de chumbo</span></i> -(leaden feet), as they are designated in other parts of -the world, would not quicken their pace even to -promote the best interests of their country. Sordid -motives would also appear to be at the bottom of these -acts of repudiation, with which both Spain and Portugal -are too familiar.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I think a line might be stretched across the Isthmus -of Panama, passing from the West Coast and over the -Andes to Buenos Ayres, where a telegraphic cable can -easily be laid along the seaboard to Rio de Janeiro. The -Argentine Government is now laying down wires from -Buenos Ayres to Rosario, whence the Central Argentine -<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>Railway carries them on to Cordova, so that a communication -with Valparaiso or some port on the West -Coast would not be a very formidable work.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Nothing would tend more to consolidate and bind -the Argentine provinces together than railways and -electric wires. It is true the latter might be exposed to -temporary injury, from political agitators and others, -but this is no argument against the introduction of so -great a civiliser, which even savages soon learn to -respect, and look upon with a certain degree of -awe. The onward march of civilisation and progress in -the Argentine, as well as the Chilian Republic, would -most certainly, under every circumstance, greatly tend -to secure and keep open an agency so useful to both.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I understand that General Webb, United States -Minister at Rio de Janeiro, has lately been authorised -to submit an important scheme for the laying of an -ocean cable to place Brazil in telegraphic communication -with both Europe and North America; and I am -glad to learn that there is great probability of something -practical resulting from the negotiations in progress -in respect to this proposal.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span> - <h2 class='c005'>RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Spain and Portugal as a matter of course introduced -the Roman Catholic religion in their South American -conquests. The aborigines, being imbued with a veneration -for forms, or imagery of some kind, soon fell -under the influence of the priesthood. Volumes have -been written on the power and grandeur of the Jesuits, -who were assuredly the pioneers of civilisation in South -America, and they certainly accomplished what the -sword could never have done. Papal and monarchial -jealousy led to their expulsion, but many substantial -buildings still remain as evidence of their activity and -influence. The district called Missions, lying between -Paraguay, Brazil, and the Banda Oriental, which has -long been a bone of contention between the ruler of -Paraguay and the Argentine Republic, abounds with -their ancient edifices, mostly in ruins, and Paraguay -itself retains to this day many of the characteristics of -the Jesuit rule, which was exercised in a despotic -manner—half sacerdotal, half military.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Any one visiting South America must be struck with -the enormous size of the churches and convents, so -utterly out of proportion to what must have been the -wants of the population at the period of their erection, -and even at this moment many of these buildings are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>unoccupied, as stated in my notice of the Brazilian city -of San Paulo. These churches and convents were -endowed with enormous tracts of land, which in process -of time have become very valuable, and if appropriated -to State purposes would go a long way towards paying -off the national debt of Brazil. Some measure of this -kind will inevitably be adopted at some future period, as -in most instances the property itself is unproductive of -any national benefit, nor is it utilised for any national -object. The power of the priesthood still predominates -and subjects the masses, if not a majority of the enlightened -population, to its influence, and little short of -a social revolution can wrest from the Church what is -no longer required for religious observances, or distributed -in any way towards the spread of religious -knowledge. Mexico is an instance of the pernicious -and fatal effects produced by a dominant priesthood, -and although the more liberal views of Brazilians have -weakened the priestly trammels in which some other -parts of South America are still held, few have come -forward to propose divesting the Church of her nonproductive -property.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Roman Catholic religion is the religion of the State -in Brazil, though all others are tolerated by law and -treaties, nor has any difficulty ever arisen in this respect. -At the same time it cannot be denied that open attempts -at proselytism would be attended with danger. So -long as foreign communities carry on their own religious -ceremonies quietly and without ostentation all will be -well, but too much demonstration might be productive -of mischievous results.</p> - -<p class='c000'>As a body it cannot be said the Roman Catholic priesthood -of South America is held in much esteem by the -laity. Their stronghold is in the subserviency of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>more ignorant and narrow-minded of their flock, precisely -as we find it all over the world, and even at -home.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the River Plate, owing in a great measure to the -scattered nature of the population, the influence of the -priesthood has been less felt or exercised than in Brazil, -besides which the large introduction of the foreign -element in its towns and cities has led to greater freedom -of thought and action. Nevertheless the church has -large possessions in land, to which the same objections -may be urged as in the case of Brazil, and the sooner -they are appropriated to national objects the better. -Cordova may be termed a city of churches and convents, -the greater number of which are useless. A recent -writer on Cordova says:—“In telling anything of -Cordova it is impossible to omit to speak of her -churches: there are over thirty of them, besides the -Cathedral. A description of them and their riches -and institutions would make a large book. I have -neither the requisite information, inclination, nor the -time to go into the details of this painful theme—the -Church in Cordova being so manifestly an incubus on -the advancement of the country. Immense capitals are -locked up in massive buildings and lands, which the -clergy will neither sell nor cultivate, and a small army -of friars and nuns—unproductive men and women in -every sense—is detached from the world to manage -these great properties, which yield nothing to the people -moral or material.” The great Republic of the United -States presents a good example to those of South -America by permitting free admission of every religion -its citizens may choose to adopt without allowing the -predominance of any one in particular.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Here and there, in the progress of my work, I have -casually referred to the Rio de la Plata and its affluents; -but the fluvial system which they together constitute is -certainly deserving of more than a merely cursory comment. -I will, therefore, add to my remarks on the -Amazon and its tributaries some more precise observations -with respect to the numerous rivers which give -access to the fertile regions of Paraguay and furnish -the Argentine Confederation with an extensive littoral -coast.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The rivers Parana, Uruguay, and Paraguay are, -however, now too well known to necessitate any very -minute description. The first originates at no great -distance from the shores of the Atlantic in that part of -the table land of Brazil which divides the watershed of -the Amazon from the watershed of the River Plate. -Its most distant branch is the Rio Grande, which it -receives at the confluence of the latter with the Paranahyba; -and after an interrupted course of about 1,000 -miles it finally effects a junction with the Paraguay, its -largest affluent. Thence its huge volume of water, -further augmented by the Uruguay, rolls to the ocean, -forming that wide fresh water sea known as the estuary -of the Plate. The Parana runs for nearly 900 miles -within the limits of the Argentine Republic, and of this -<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>distance quite 750 are navigable throughout the whole -year for sailing vessels and steamers of 300 tons burden. -It begins to rise owing to intertropical rains towards -the end of December, and this continues up to the close -of April. Below its confluence with the Paraguay the -average rise is eleven to twelve feet. The only tributary -the Parana receives between its confluence with -the Paraguay and its absorption in the estuary of the -La Plata is the Rio Salado, a river of great length, and -having its source in the Andine regions of the Argentine -Confederation.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Paraguay, like the Parana, has its origin -in Brazilian territory. After passing through the -Estrecho of Sao Francisco, (lat. 20° S.) it flows -southwards, dividing the Republic of Paraguay -from the Gran Chaco; a few miles below Asuncion, at -a point called Angostura, the channel is narrowed by -rocks, and the current becomes very rapid in consequence, -taking a bend west by south until it mingles -with the Parana. The Paraguay is navigable by large -craft, and steamers have for some years ascended to -Asuncion and Matto Grosso. The Paraguay receives -the Pilcomayo, a very large stream of over 1,000 miles, -and which, taking its rise near the city of Chuquisaca, -in Bolivia, traverses a vast portion of that Republic, -finally issuing from the Chaco wilderness at a point a -little above Asuncion. Of course the Paraguay is augmented -by numerous tributaries previous to its junction -with the Pilcomayo, but these need not be specially -mentioned. The Araguarmini empties itself into it at -Oliva, and further down is the mouth of the Vermejo, -a very considerable river, the navigation of which opens -to commerce a territory of almost unrivalled fertility, -and affords an easy access to Bolivia, in which State, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>like the Pilcomayo, it has its sources. Efforts have -been made to facilitate the navigation of this fluvial -highway, in connection with which the name of Sor. -Arce is deserving of special allusion. This gentleman -was the first to traverse the entire length of this previously -unexplored river, his first descent having been -effected in 1856. He followed its windings on a -raft for a distance of 1,200 miles, penetrating in his -course dense forests, and braving exposure to the rays -of a tropical sun, not to speak of the danger incurred -from wild beasts, and the yet more formidable Indian -savages. The Vermejo will yet prove of incalculable -advantage in conveying<a id='p205'></a> to the ocean the valuable products -of the Argentine and Bolivian interior.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Uruguay and the Parana partially enclose the -Provinces of Entre Rios and Corrientes, and the former -is only navigable from the sea as far as Salto, where -rapids and falls occur; but above this point its waters -are adapted to small steamers and sailing craft. Its -source is in Brazil. On its banks are situated the towns -of San Borja, Salto, Pysandu, Concepcion, Fray Bentos, -and Soriano. It passes through a well wooded and -picturesque country. Up to Salto it is constantly navigated -by steamers trading between that place and the -lower communities, especially Buenos Ayres and Monte -Video.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span> - <h2 class='c005'>THE REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>The long and sanguinary conflict which the despotic ruler -of this country has been enabled, from various causes, -to maintain against the allied arms of Brazil and the -other Platine States has naturally excited considerable -curiosity in Europe to know something of its past -history, people, and form of government.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In order to arrive at a correct judgment in respect of -this singular people, and of their political and social condition, -it is absolutely necessary to go back to the time -when the Jesuits exercised so potential an influence in -the River Plate, as in other parts of South America -where the members of this remarkable order were -permitted to carry out their questionable designs for -the religious subjection and social domination of the -aboriginal inhabitants.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Jesuits first arrived in Paraguay at the beginning -of the 17th century, when they obtained from Spain -the concession of a vast territory of their own choosing, -traversed by the Parana and Uruguay rivers, and -capable of growing a great variety of products, including -the sugar cane, indigo, cotton, tropical fruits of -every description, and almost every kind of edible root -and vegetable. The forests contained woods of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span>most valuable character, and the region in question also -possessed great mineral wealth. The Fathers, having -established themselves in their conceded territory, forthwith -set about devising schemes for its population by -civilised, or, at least, subjected Indians. The means -adopted were characteristic. Azara describes the ingenious, -if not very ingenuous, system adopted for this -purpose. Having failed in their attempts to subdue -the wilder Indian tribes, the Fathers soon directed their -efforts to the reduction of the Guaranis, who were of a -milder and more tractable temperament. By great -industry, and by dint of patience, a small community -was formed, over whom the Jesuits possessed the most -entire control, and whose members were used for the -reduction of savages in much the same fashion as the -fowler uses his “call-birds” for the capture of others. -The following is a brief description of the method -usually adopted:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>They sent to a savage community some small presents by two -Indians speaking the same language, and who had been chosen in -their oldest communities. They repeated these embassies and presents -at different times, the messengers always stating that they were -sent by a Jesuit who loved them tenderly, who desired to come and -live in their midst, and to procure for them other objects of greater -value, including herds of cows, in order that they might have food -to eat without exposing themselves to fatigue. The Indians accepted -these offers, and the Jesuit started with what he had promised, accompanied -by a considerable number of Indians selected from amongst -those of their early <span lang="es" xml:lang="es">redacciones</span>. These Indians remained with the -Jesuit, as they were needed to build a house for the curate and to -take care of the cows. These were very soon destroyed, for the Indians -only thought of eating them. The savages asked for more -cows and they were brought by additional Indians chosen like the -first; and the whole of them remained on the spot, under the pretext -of building a church and other edifices, and of cultivating maize, -the yucca root, &c., for the Jesuit and for all the others. Food, the -affability of the priest, the good conduct of the Indians who had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>brought the cattle, festivals and music, the absence of every appearance -of subjection, attracted to this settlement all the savage -Indians in the neighbourhood. When the priest saw that his selected -Indians greatly exceeded the savages in numbers, he caused the latter -to be surrounded on a determined day by his people, and mildly told -them, in a few words, that it was not just their brethren should work -for them, that it was therefore necessary they should cultivate the -earth and learn trades, and that the women should spin. A few -appeared dissatisfied, but they perceived the superiority of the Indians -of the curate, and as the latter was careful to caress some and -punish others with moderation, while exercising a surveillance over -all for a time, the new mission was at length entirely and successfully -formed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The internal government of the Jesuits was quite as -peculiar as the proceedings by which they widened their -influence and brought the outlaying savage populations -under control. From the Indians an unquestioning and -absolute submission was exacted, and the hours and the -nature of their labours were fixed without appeal by -their clerical masters. M. Quentin, in his very interesting -work, translated from the French by Mr. Dunlop, -thus depicts the interior life in these <i><span lang="ca" xml:lang="ca">redaccions</span></i>, the -name given to their establishments by the Jesuits -themselves:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The Indians knew no other authority than that of the Father. -The Father fed and clothed them, and promised the joys of Paradise -as the reward of their submission and assiduity in labour. They lived -in common, they worked in common, they prayed in common, under -the direction of the Father, who was the representative of God. -The Indian laboured, but nothing belonged to him individually; -everything was the property of the whole community. The Father -distributed amongst the different families the things necessary for -their sustenance, and the remainder was carefully stored and guarded -in immense warehouses. The Indians had nothing to do with the -traffic; the Father it was who sold in distant markets the precious -woods cut in the forests, the Paraguayan tea, the tobacco, and the -hides: he it was who brought back fine garments, the most beautiful -of which were given to the most docile and submissive, and returned -<span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>with implements of agriculture, looms for the weaving of cotton, and -splendid stuffs for the adornment of the chapel on holidays, when -work was suspended and the bells sent forth jubilant peals. These -days were days of high festival in the <span lang="es" xml:lang="es">redacción</span>. The Fathers of -the neighbouring missions assembled. They invested themselves in -copes resplendent with gold; children, clothed in white robes, carried -censers, which they waved to and fro; and the whole population, in -good order, and to the sound of music, slowly advanced, singing -canticles as they went under the shade of the orange trees which -fringed their path.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Indians were, it will be seen, entirely deprived -of liberty. They were not allowed to do anything of -their own motion. They could engage in no private -pursuits, and there was, therefore, wanting every -stimulus to individual elevation. A dead level was -created, above which none rose save by grace and -selection of the priests themselves. But in return for -their confiscated freedom of action, the Indians were -relieved of all care for the morrow; and otherwise the -Jesuit Fathers, it must be confessed, were at pains to -make despotism sweet and not bitter. The labour tasks -imposed were in no sort onerous, and, as Azara remarks, -they were amused “by a great number of balls, fêtes, -and tournaments,” on which occasions the actors were -invariably clothed in the most costly and magnificent -vestments to be had in Europe. To the aspiring, -cultured, exalted spirit slavery in a gilded cage would -be simply intolerable; but in the case of the Guarani -Indians it was very different. They were slaves, and -they were perfectly contented with their slavery.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Fathers were very careful to prevent their neophytes -from acquiring the Spanish language; only a few, -who occupied certain subordinate offices, were trusted -with this knowledge, for the Fathers were well aware -that the only basis on which their system could possibly -rest secure was that of universal ignorance. Every -<span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>channel of information or of communication was in consequence -rigorously closed and barricaded by the institution -of the most exclusive regulations. Education -was summed up in the oral teaching (they were not -taught to read or write) of certain church prayers and -the ten commandments; and the time not monopolised -by labour, or in the childish games provided for their -relaxation, was devoted to exercises of piety and worship -according to the pompous ritual of the Romish -Church.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When, therefore, for reasons and under circumstances -which I will not now stay to particularise, the Jesuits -were expelled from the River Plate, and were compelled -to abandon their missions, the pretentious fabric they -had raised, possessing in itself no sustaining power, collapsed -almost immediately. The withdrawal of the -Fathers was an inexorable call to their former disciples -to self-thought and self-action. They were, however, -unequal to the demands of the situation; everything -fell into disorder, and “villages in ruins, fields untilled, -yerbales destroyed, at once demonstrate the grandeur -and the fragility of the work undertaken by the learned -ambition of the Jesuits.” But the labours of the -Fathers were far from fruitless. They had sedulously -cultivated amongst the Guarani populations of Paraguay -sentiments of obedience and fanaticism, and, incapable -of managing their own affairs, they have always reposed -their destinies in the hands of some authority, invested -with the power, as with the title, of <i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">El Supremo</span></i>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The history of this people, since the expulsion of the -Jesuits, is, therefore, that of a succession of tyrannies. -When all the neighbouring countries were engaged in a -bloody war for the attainment of their independence -no throb for liberty disturbed the popular heart of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>Paraguay. The Metropolitan supremacy was exposed -to no tumultuous assault, and was subverted only when -its official guardians betrayed their trust. The nation -allowed itself to pass from one master to another, just -like a herd of cattle, without protest and without the -manifestation of any special interest, but to the new -authority as to the old they rendered the same homage -of unreasoning and unreflecting obedience. It is true -that some forms of popular ratification were given, but -only given because they were asked.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I cannot pause to specify the intrigues which resulted -in placing Francia in the seat of power. Suffice it to -say that in 1817 this terrible man caused himself to be -proclaimed Supreme and Perpetual Dictator, and never -surely did tyrant exercise absolute rule with a more -ruthless and cruel rigour. Even the humblest ceased -to find safety in their obscurity. For the most trifling -reasons men and women were thrown into prisons and -there tortured often to the death. Espionage was -general; mutual confidence was destroyed; the members -of society “moved as in a desert,” scarcely daring to -address their dearest friends lest some thoughtless word -might be reported to their detriment.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Francia lived in the most complete seclusion:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>He was as unapproachable as a divinity. Hidden in the recesses -of his palace, nobody could penetrate to his presence. He only went -out in the evening, and his progress was marked by a solitude. At -the moment he quitted his palace the clock of the Cathedral sounded, -and all the inhabitants, seized with affright, hastily retreated within -doors. If one of them, by chance too late, was encountered by the -<i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">cortège</span></i> of the Dictator, he cast himself upon his knees, with his face -to the earth, never daring to contemplate the features of <i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">El Supremo</span></i>, -and awaiting the chastisement he had incurred in an agony of fear. -Sometimes he was carried to prison; more frequently he was let off -with a few blows with the flat of a sabre, heartily applied by the -soldiers of the escort.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>Under such a Government neither agricultural nor -trading industry could do other than languish, and the -country was cut off from all commercial communication -with the outer world.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The following extract will show how the Dictator -was in the habit of accomplishing his ends:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>Only a few stuffs and clumsy implements were with difficulty -produced in the country. But, in times of urgent necessity, the -Dictator knew how to improvise workmen and teach them those -arts of which they were ignorant. The means he employed are -worthy of notice. He required belts for his soldiers: no one could -make them. “Having prepared a gallows, he threatened to hang -thereon a shoemaker who had failed to fashion the belts according -to his desire.” By this process blacksmiths were converted into locksmiths, -armourers, and cutlers, shoemakers into saddlers, goldsmiths -into founders, and masons into architects. That their zeal might -not be permitted to cool, he condemned a blacksmith to penal -servitude who had badly constructed the sight-piece of a cannon. -Everything was done by rule. The citizens were divested of all -power of initiation. If they became proprietors, even their goods -were subject to the arbitrary caprices of the Dictator. Under pretext -of embellishing the capital, Francia “pulled down several -hundred houses without compensating the owners, or troubling himself -as to their fate or that of their families. Each was compelled -to demolish his own house, and if he lacked the means, convicts -were employed to do the work, and afterwards carried away what -they thought proper.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>On the 19th of September, 1840, Francia died. But -unhappily his death did not prove the dawn of freedom -for the Paraguayans. After a brief interregnum Don -Carlos Lopez, a lawyer, finally took up the sceptre of -his terrible predecessor, and wielded it with a hand -equally relentless. He professed, it is true, to rule in -conformity with the constitution of 1844, if this name -can be given to an act which merely legalised despotism; -but if any difference existed between the position of -Lopez and Francia, it was simply that the iron rod of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>the latter was gilded and painted in the grasp of the -former.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Without repudiating the exclusive policy of Francia, -Lopez the elder permitted some partial commerce with -foreign nations. But this licence was hampered by the -most absurd restrictions, and he continued to exhibit -the greatest dislike for foreigners, upon whom extreme -barbarities were inflicted. If the isolation of the state -was a little relaxed it was because the “trading” interests -of the Dictator would else have suffered:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>The modifications effected in the commercial and economic system -were of such a nature as to secure for the State a monopoly in the -majority of mercantile transactions. Paraguay was and is a great -firm under the management of the President. Lopez authorised the -people to work in the yerbales, but it was necessary to ask and -obtain a licence. The yerba thus produced was purchased by the -State, which exported it on its own account. The Government paid -for it five piastres per arroba, and resold it for fifteen in the interior, -and for so much as forty piastres to export. In consequence of the -monopoly in the sale of this important product, an exorbitant price -was maintained, which enabled the Brazilians to give a great development -to its production in the province of Parana. The yerba -there grown, though of inferior quality, nevertheless found an immense -consumption in the Plate, on account of its more moderate -price. The utilisation of the forests of Paraguay was also permitted; -but the State imposed a duty of 20 per cent.; and as the value was -fixed by itself, this pretended liberty of commerce in timber was -simply a device to extort money, and ruin the individuals who might -engage in it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With regard to the raising of cattle and the commerce in hides, -the State possessed farms and tanneries, and did not allow private -persons to offer any serious competition. The State could, in addition, -command labourers without payment; for the citizens were -still subject, as under the colonial administration, to be pressed into -the public service. At every requisition of authority they are bound -to work without receiving either reward or nourishment; and it was -by means of these <i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">auxilios</span></i> that roads have been made and repaired, -churches built, and both the fortress of Humaita and the arsenal of -Villa Rica erected. The <i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">Guardias Auxiliares</span></i>—to-day soldiers, to-morrow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>labourers—are employed in the cultivation of the lands of -the State. These soldiers carry the posts, gather the <span lang="es" xml:lang="es">maté</span> harvest, -and fell timber; but receive no remuneration, being only fed like the -rest of the army. These labourers cost so little, that, thanks to -them, the State defies all private competition in the produce of its -yerbales, forests, and farms.</p> - -<p class='c000'>One thing Don Carlos Lopez did not leave out of -sight. He felt his Government was an anomaly and a -menace to civilisation and political freedom in the surrounding -States, and any day even his so patient subjects -might find their bonds too galling for longer -endurance. He, therefore, developed the military -strength of the Dictatorship, and raised the fortress of -Humaita on the banks of the Paraguay in such a position -as to render the country all but impregnable to -external assault.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At the end of a long reign Lopez I. died, and his -dominion went by testament to his son,—Don Francisco -Solano—as Vice-President. M. Quentin gives the -following account of the proceedings adopted by the -present ruler of Paraguay to secure the position he has -used to bring ruin upon his unfortunate country:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>Don Carlos Antonio Lopez died on the 10th of September, 1862. -On the very same day Don Francisco Solano Lopez assembled the -bishop, the supreme judge, and the principal functionaries, and in -their presence opened the sealed envelope which contained the testament -of his father. In virtue of the law of 1856 Don Francisco -Solano Lopez was designated Vice-President, and in that capacity -he convoked the Extraordinary Congress.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As under such circumstances it is well to neglect nothing, young -Lopez prudently confided the command of the army to his brother, -and one of his uncles was already at the head of the clergy. Thus -all the avenues to power were guarded.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The Congress assembled under the presidency of Don Solano -Lopez. The result of the vote was certain. Every precaution had -been well taken. They were about to proceed to the ballot, when a -deputy, named Varela, commenced speaking. He began by eulogising -<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>General Lopez, and assuring him of his personal esteem and -sympathy, reminded Congress of the express terms of the Act of -Independence—Paraguay shall never become the patrimony of a -family, and concluded with these words:—“I have the most profound -respect for General Lopez, but I have sworn to obey the laws -of my country. I hesitate between my affection and my conscience.” -The moment was a critical one. An unexpected opposition manifested -itself, and drew its force from the law, for the first time invoked -in the heart of a Congress. Lopez tremblingly witnessed -this episode, but retained his coolness and self-possession. He made -a sign to Father Roman, the Bishop of Asuncion, who of right -formed part of the Congress. The prelate approached Varela, who -humbly fell on his knees in the midst of the assembly, and the -bishop, placing his hands upon his head, said with a loud voice—“<i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Ego -te absolvo</span></i>; thou art released from thy oath; this is not the -case for its observance (<i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">no es este el caso de observarlo</span></i>).” Varela -rose with delight, and cried, “Then I will be the first to give my -vote to his Excellency General Lopez!” It need not be stated that -the President obtained unanimity, and that the people welcomed -his new master with transport. The Lopez dynasty was founded.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Lopez II., thus firmly seated in his place of supremacy, -adhered to the traditions of his father. His -government has been equally despotic, and the same -policy of isolation and monopoly has been persistently -observed. Public opinion has no existence, and the -only paper published in Paraguay is the official organ, -edited by the Dictator himself. The commerce and -industry of the people—their toil, their means, their -blood—are at the uncontrolled disposal of their tyrant. -And how this authority has been exercised we all know. -Inflamed by ambition, and desirous to extend his power -beyond the limits of Paraguay, the greater part of his -reign—I use the word advisedly—has been devoted to -the steady accumulation of military and naval stores, -the organisation of an army out of all proportion to the -number of inhabitants, and the erection of strong fortresses -on the riverine passages to the interior. For -<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>what purpose? Let his acts of gratuitous invasion tell; -let the story of the present war with Brazil and her -allies testify. I have already placed the facts with -respect to this struggle before my readers, and I feel -sure they will concur with me that the real object of -Lopez was to bring the whole of the River Plate under -the terror of a Guarani-Indian subjection. Happily -this calamity has not occurred, but it has only been -avoided by a prodigious outflow of blood and treasure.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span> - <h2 class='c005'>BRAZILIAN CURRENCY.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Like most new countries achieving their independence -and establishing constitutional government under -circumstances of difficulty, internal and external, -Brazil has been subject to vicissitudes in her monetary -circulation, and has been affected by occasional aberrations -from the great truths of economical science in the -emission of paper money. The law of 1866 has, -however, corrected the errors previously committed, -and when the restoration of peace shall afford the -present President of the Council and Minister of -Finance, who, when holding the same offices in -1853, evinced both the capacity and determination -to place the financial condition of the Empire on -a sound foundation, the Viscount Itaborahy will, -no doubt, achieve for his country even a greater -financial reform than that which secured for him in -Brazil a reputation not dissimilar from that of Sir -Robert Peel in England.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Brazilian standard of value is the gold <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">oitava</span> of 22 -carats, of the value of four milreis, the par value of each -milreis being by law 27d. sterling. The ancient mercantile -par of the exchange of the milreis was in sterling 60d. -After the arrival of King Dom Joao VI. in Brazil the -exchange on England gradually rose, until in 1814 it -reached 96d. This rise was owing to the increase of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>its commerce, consequent to the freer commercial legislation -which was then first introduced and to the depreciation -of English irredeemable paper money consequent -on Mr. Pitt's Bank Restriction Act. The war which -the Argentines plunged the Empire into immediately -after their independence to deprive it of its Cis-Platine -province produced, however, great financial embarrassments, -and they were increased by the mismanagement -of the paper circulation by the then Bank of Brazil, -which King Dom Joao VI. had founded, by attempts -at revolution in the northern provinces, by the intervention -of the Emperor Dom Pedro I. in the affairs of -Portugal, by his abdication of the Brazilian crown in -1831, and by serious and prolonged domestic troubles. -The consequence was in 1833 the reduction of the ancient -par to 43⅕d. the milreis. From 1831 to 1840 distracted -regencies governed Brazil. During one of the regencies -a civil war broke out in the great province of the Rio -Grande do Sul, which only terminated in 1845, thanks -then to the efforts and capacity of Count (now Marquis) -de Caxias, who is at this hour as heroically fighting, in his -old age, the battles of Brazil in Paraguay with equal success. -Then followed other provincial and political -difficulties of less importance, but all reacting on the -financial position of the Empire. So that again in -1846 the par of the milreis had to be lowered to 27d., -at which it has since been preserved. And it is to -the credit of the Empire, its Government, Legislature, -and people, that subsequently, neither the great financial -and banking crisis of 1864, nor the pressure of the war -with Paraguay, which has continued from 1865 to the -present time, has produced any propositions for its further -reduction. The maintenance of the par of the milreis -at 27d. is now the established fundamental policy -<span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>of Brazil. This policy is made especially and emphatically -manifest in the financial measures of Viscount -Itaborahy, who is once more Prime Minister and -Finance Minister of the Empire, with the prospect, it -may be hoped, of as long an administration as that -which distinguished his Government from 1848 to 1853, -during which period he governed so greatly to the -advantage of the nation, terminating the slave trade, -and introducing a financial system, the departure from -and disregard of which in 1857 undid the good which -he then accomplished.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The free trade legislation of England in 1845 opened -the consumption of this country to Brazilian sugar, one -of the great productions of Brazil, and the Revolution -of 1848 in France was followed by the partial admission -to France of Brazilian coffee, then the largest item of the -agriculture of the Empire. Under these influences an -immense impetus was given to the productive capacity -of Brazil. The firm and enlightened Government of -Viscount Itaborahy gave the Empire concurrently a -period of domestic repose, of which the planters made -the most. Political passions subsiding agriculture made -huge strides. The termination of the African slave -trade gradually relieving agriculture from debts and embarrassments, -introduced better systems of cultivation, -largely increased production, augmented commerce, -released for better purposes a great amount of capital -engaged in that abominable traffic, stimulated honest -improvements of every sort and kind, and the exchange -on England rose to 28¼d. the milreis. At this time -Treasury notes were the only paper money in circulation, -and their amount was so insufficient for business purposes -that coin became more abundant than paper -<span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>money, to the inconvenience of trade and society -in so vast an empire.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The necessity of a convertible paper money became -apparent and it was generally demanded. The result was -the enactment, on the proposition of Viscount Itaborahy, -of the law of the 5th of July, 1853. Under it the Bank -of Brazil was established as a bank of issue to a limited -extent; other banks were merged in that great institution; -branches of it were established in the larger -provinces, with similarly restricted powers of issue in circumjacent -districts; the privilege of issue was confined -to this one establishment, and Brazil was provided, as -England now is, with one great bank issuing convertible -paper in connection with, yet to a large extent independent -of, the State, and the Executive Government had virtually -no authority or power to found other banks of issue. -Thus unity of banking was established so far as paper -money was concerned, and to the immense advantage -of the country. An easy, cheap, and convenient paper -currency was provided, always convertible into coin, -yet preferable for the ordinary purposes of life to coin; -and the provinces and the metropolis were equally well -supplied with this currency. The consequences were -still further progress in the Empire, the Treasury was -relieved from the trouble of regulating the currency, -the revenue and trade increased, and an impetus was -given to activity throughout the Empire. For all this -Brazil had to thank the good sense and statesmanship -of Viscount Itaborahy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Viscount's Cabinet terminated in 1853 in the -midst of the improvement it had created. The progress -thus produced by wise and scientific legislation unfortunately -rendered a powerful section of the country -<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>impatient for further progress and misled succeeding -Governments into a policy of a very different kind, whence -mainly have flowed the subsequent financial misfortunes -of the country. From the substantial but slow benefits -of sound legislation, Senhor Souza Franco, a successor -of Viscount Itaborahy in the Ministry of the Treasury, -was led into the evils of unsound banking. He became -enamoured of the then American system of free banking, -as it was termed, and in 1857, misinterpreting the real -meaning of the law of 1853, established plurality of banks -of emission. Banking societies were then empowered to -issue their own notes convertible by law, it is true, on -presentation into coin, but without any corresponding -security wherewith to furnish gold for their payment -on presentation. The Government sanctioned no fewer -than six banks of emission, two in Rio de Janeiro and -four in the provinces, and assigned to each districts -within which the right of paper issue might by means -of branches be further extended. In the same spirit -the Government sanctioned the establishment of joint -stock companies and anonymous societies for all kinds -of purposes throughout the Empire. The right thus -assumed by Government was superabundantly exercised. -Speculation spread apace in all directions, and fictitious -prosperity for a moment took the place of real progress; -shares and pecuniary responsibility, far beyond the means -of those who assumed them, became the order of the -day; long credit and increased discount aggravated the -evil; gold began to leave the Empire rapidly, the rate of -exchange to fall heavily, and in 1859 pecuniary anarchy -was the consequence of this policy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Senhor Souza Franco had to retreat before this -result, and he was succeeded by Senhor Torres Homem, -who soon found in the Chambers a spirit opposed to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>those wiser measures he recommended which he was -unable to overcome during his short tenure of office. -Then came Senhor Ferraz at the Treasury; he was -more fortunate in remedying the mischief thus caused. -The Empire and the General Assembly had recovered -from their delusions. So, on 22nd August, 1860, a new -law of banking, &c., was enacted. Its principles were -the resumption of cash payments by the banks of -emission and the withdrawal of all power from the -Executive Government to sanction powers of emission -or of anonymous societies, reserving such power for the -Imperial Legislature. By this law the Bank of Brazil -was prohibited from further emission until it had -resumed payment of its notes in gold, the power of -emission was reduced and fixed, and no banks can now -be established except by legislative authority.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Immense as was the mischief caused by the measures -of 1857, the law of 1860 to a considerable extent corrected -it. The two banks of emission at Rio de Janeiro -resigned the privileges they had acquired; within two -years the Bank of Brazil resumed payment of its notes -in cash; the Bank of Pernambuco withdrew its notes -from circulation; and the currency of the Empire -had undergone substantial improvement when—in September, -1864, suddenly a great “crisis” burst on Rio -de Janeiro, immediately the consequence of adverse -European influences, but substantially the result of -unscrupulous and indefensible mismanagement of discount -and private bankers in that capital.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Their establishments were in the enjoyment of great -credit. Their chiefs were men of mercantile activity -and public spirit, living <i><span lang="es" xml:lang="es">en evidence</span></i>, pushing business, -giving facilities to everybody, and dealing with money -as if possessed of boundless capital of their own. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>Their means for this pecuniary profusion was, however, -chiefly derived from money deposited with them, for -longer or shorter periods, or “at call,” sometimes in -large, but more frequently in small sums, on which -they allowed interest of, say, 8 per cent. Thus they -became possessed of a greater part of the floating and -uninvested capital of Rio de Janeiro. Receiving money -in this way freely and largely, from the poorer public -chiefly, it was the duty of these bankers to place it out at -higher rates of interest, but on ample security always, and -easily convertible into cash. By such business they -would have reaped substantial profits for themselves, -have assisted honest commerce, and have provided -effectually for their depositors. A run upon one of -these houses in September, 1864, after the arrival of -bad financial news from Europe, resulted in its closing -its doors on its depositors. This stoppage alarmed the -creditors of the other houses, and they followed suit by -demanding back their deposits. With the same effect—the -closing of doors and stoppage—until five of these -bankers suspended payment with deposits of £5,655,000.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Investigation into their affairs showed how reckless -had been their management, how disregardful -of every rule of deposit banking. The funds entrusted -to them had been invested in houses, advanced on -mortgages, lent to planters on bills renewable; and -thus Rio de Janeiro was by their misconduct -involved in unexpected ruin. The Government had -to interfere with the payment of bills of exchange, -to direct the administration of their insolvent estates. -The Bank of Brazil was involved in large advances to -these houses and unable to assist the community at the -moment when assistance was most needed. The -consequence was a suspension of its cash payments.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>This crisis once more raised the question of the -currency and of banking, and led, after a prolonged -discussion, to further legislation in 1866.</p> - -<p class='c000'>By the beginning of 1865 the paper circulation of -the Empire reached the enormous sum in sterling of -£11,025,000, of which, however, only £3,150,000 were -notes of the Government having general circulation -throughout the country. For the balance of £7,785,000, -the circulation of which was limited to defined districts in -which the issuing banks were situated, the public, had no -adequate security. The natural consequence was disarrangement -in the internal exchanges and general -disturbance of the money market. To remedy it Government -proposed a radical reform of the Bank of Brazil, -and its separation in two departments,—one of issue, -the other of banking. The discussions on this question -continued through the legislative sessions of 1865 and -1866. And during these discussions the adverse situation -was illustrated by further decline in the foreign exchanges -and the augmentation of the non-Government -paper in circulation to £9,225,000, to which it had -swollen in May, 1866.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In the session of that year the difficulties of this -state of affairs were brought under the consideration -of a Committee of the Senate, of which Viscount -Itaborahy was the most eminent member, and to which -a remedial measure of a radical character was referred for -examination. The result of its deliberations was the -expression of an opinion that the Bank of Brazil, having -in two years doubled its circulation, could no longer -accomplish the essential objects of its existence. Thus -sentence of death was passed on that institution by the -statesman who had formed it, and legislation became -inevitable after such a condemnation.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>Accordingly, on the 12th of September, 1866, a -measure became law which enabled the Government to -abolish the contract under which the Bank of Brazil -existed. The principal provisions of this law were: -1. The cessation of the bank's privilege of emission. -2. The division of the bank into two departments—one -for banking purposes only, the other for mortgage loans, -in order to effect a gradual liquidation of the securities -given by the agricultural classes, and so to form the -commencement of the operations of the law of September, -1864. 3. The sale of the bank's stock of -bullion, which amounted to £2,925,000 and the application -of the proceeds to a proportionate withdrawal of -its notes from circulation. 4. The annual contraction -of its remaining paper circulation. 5. The payment -to the bank for the State notes it used in accordance -with its primitive contract, in withdrawing from -circulation about £1,237,500, by the substitution of -bank notes by State notes, and the discharge of an insignificant -amount of treasury bonds cashed by the -bank. 6. The issue in payment of floating debt, and -those treasury bonds of State notes, to the amount of -notes withdrawn by the bank.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Thus the Government were supplied with coin for -remittances to the army and navy engaged with war -in Paraguay, and the Bank of Brazil was reduced to -a mercantile association. So it now remains, only -a small and scarce portion of its notes having a forced -circulation, and that small portion is being greatly -reduced.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Thus, too, the exclusive functions of providing for -the circulating medium were restored to the State, -instead of being confided to a bank on which were -at times painfully and mischievously exercised the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>exigencies of internal credit, and the reaction in -Brazil of those crises in Europe and the United States, -that affected the Brazilian Empire while its currency -was in so unsound a condition with great violence.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In 1867, the increasing pecuniary requirements of -the war compelled the General Assembly to vote -the Government a credit of fifty thousand contos -(£5,625,000) which have in great part been used by -the Government. But, inserted in the law which -authorised the issue, is a provision that on the termination -of the war, the legislature will fix in the budget of -each year the necessary amount to be applied to the -withdrawal of this addition to the State notes.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It was not, however, only by further emissions of -State notes that the General Assembly in 1867 -made provision for the extraordinary expenditure of -the Government. In that session old taxes were increased, -new sources of taxation opened up, and the -whole system of taxation was re-organised in a more -rational and scientific way, greatly to the increase of -the general revenue of the Empire. So much so that -in the session of 1868 the budget for 1869-70 showed -under the influence of greatly enlarged receipts, and of -economies effected in the various departments of the -State, an important surplus.</p> - -<p class='c000'>And while thus placing the paper circulation on the -more solid basis of national security, important reforms -were effected in the same session of 1867 in the coinage -of the Empire.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Owing to the fineness of the silver coinage a fall in -the foreign exchanges was immediately followed by the -exportation of silver from Brazil to the great inconvenience -of petty commerce. So in September, 1867, -for the silver coinage of Brazil was adopted, in respect -<span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>of the coins of two milreis (4s. 6d.) and milreis (2s. 3d.) -the fineness and weight introduced by the International -Convention between France and other countries. And -the Government substituted for the old copper coinage -bronze pieces of twenty reis (½d.) and ten reis (¼d.) of a -similar alloy to that of our present bronze coinage—viz., -ninety-five parts of copper, four of tin, and one of -zinc. So that the Brazilian coinage consists of gold -pieces (of twenty and ten milreis of 917 <span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">milliomes</span>,) legal -tender for any amount—that is, of 27d. per milreis, -and of these silver and copper pieces for tokens. In -addition, English sovereigns and half-sovereigns are -also legal tenders for any amount in Brazil.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On the change of Ministry in July, 1868, which led -to the formation of the Cabinet over which Viscount -Itaborahy now presides, the Chamber of Deputies, by -an unexpected and sudden combination of forces previously -adverse to each other, came to a resolution -which left the newly formed Cabinet no alternative but -an appeal at once to the nation, and that without the -Chamber making full financial provision for the conduct -of the war. Left in this position by no fault of its own, the -Cabinet in September, 1868, had no alternative but -the adoption of financial operations on its own responsibility. -But they have fortunately met with the full -approval of the country, and will, no doubt, be sanctioned -by the result of the now impending general election of -deputies.</p> - -<p class='c000'>These measures were of an alternative character. -First of all they consisted of a decree authorising a -further issue of State notes to the amount of 40,000 -contos, viz., £4,500,000. But this decree was followed -by another empowering the Treasury to raise a domestic -gold loan of 30,000 contos, £3,335,000. The former -<span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>decree was, however, only intended to support the -credit of the Government, in the event of the failure of -the loan authorised by the latter decree, and as it has -been successful, a further issue of State notes will, it -may be anticipated, be averted to any considerable -amount.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In explanation of these measures it is necessary to -state that the pressure of the war expenditure going on -since April, 1865, had led, under the previous Cabinet -of Senhor Zacharias, to the creation of a large floating -debt, represented by Treasury Bonds, issued for various -short periods. There is always in Rio de Janeiro a large -amount of loanable capital seeking interest on temporary -investment, which it had found previously to the crisis -of 1864 in the deposits of private bankers' establishments. -This loanable capital deprived of such resource -after the crisis of that year found better and safe temporary -shelter in Treasury Bonds. And obtaining -money in this way to carry on the war, the preceding -Cabinet was able to avoid new permanent operations for -supplying the means for its necessities. The wants of the -Government so supplied, however, deprived commerce of -part of its legitimate supplies of money and made the -situation of the Treasury precarious and hazardous. The -extent, too, of temporary resources of this kind had -obviously reached their limit. It was, therefore, partly to -extinguish a large amount of this floating debt, and so -to relieve the Treasury from any embarrassment that -might arise from failure in the renewal of Treasury -Bonds when at maturity, and partly to provide for the -exigencies of the war, that the Government in September, -1868, resorted to the internal loan of 30,000 contos, -£3,335,000, issued at ninety percent., in bonds bearing -six per cent. interest payable in gold, redeemable in thirty-three -<span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>years by purchase when under par, and drawing -when at or above par, in which last case payment to -be made in gold. This loan was so favourably received -that applications for it were received in Rio only to the -extent of 105,000 contos, and it quickly rose to a premium -of seven per cent.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Again, then, complete success has attended the financial -policy of Viscount Itaborahy, and the Treasury has been -provided with the means of discharging a large amount -of floating debt and of prosecuting the war.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In spite of the provisions adopted by the legislation, -and of the concurrent necessary activity of Brazilian -commerce, the exchanges in London after the crisis of -1864, though high in reference to the over issue of inconvertible -paper, had fallen, and in February, 1868, -declined, as if in panic, to 14d. This fall was partly -due to the remittances to England of bills for purchasing -gold and honouring the Government commitments -on this side, and still more to the large orders -from the Plate for operations in exchange, and purchases -of bullion here caused by the financial crisis of -Monte Video.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This decline in the rate of exchange on London was, -however, brief. Thanks principally to the financial -measures just described, and to the improving prospects -of the war, the rate has again risen, and is still rising.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Such, in necessarily brief and rough outlines, is the -history of the circulating medium of the Brazilian -Empire.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Everything, it will be seen, conduces to the conviction -that with the close of the war and expenditure -there will be a certainty of maintaining the standard of -1846, so solemnly reproduced in the laws of 1853, 1860, -and 1867, and in the internal loan of 1868, and that the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>foreign exchange will once more rise, in the interests of -commerce and of all domestic industries to above the -legal level so fixed in 1846. When this has been -accomplished it will be recognised, and be due to an -intelligent and prudent administration of the finances, -to the prodigious development of the external commerce -and to the inexhaustible resources of the great American -monarchy.<a id='r8' /><a href='#f8' class='c010'><sup>[8]</sup></a></p> - -<hr class='c012' /> - -<div class='footnote' id='f8'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. </span>In the preparation of this chapter we are indebted to several important -and valuable Brazilian works—“Systema Financial do Brazil,” by -Conselheiro C. B. de Oliveira; the Report on the Circulating Medium -of the Empire, made in 1859-60, by a Commission presided over by -Conselheiro Almeida Areas, now Brazilian Minister in London; the -Report on the Crisis of 1864, by a Commission presided over by the -late Conselheiro Silva Ferraz (Baron de Uruguayana); the <i><span lang="pt" xml:lang="pt">Relatorios</span></i>, -from 1865 downwards, of the Ministers of Finance, and the Annals of the -Senate and Chamber of Deputies for the same period.</p> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span> - <h2 class='c005'>ARGENTINE FINANCES.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>A notice of this extensive and rising country would -be incomplete without some allusion to its financial -condition, and in order to illustrate this more clearly I -must revert to the year 1824, when the first loan of a -million sterling was raised in London, to assist the -young republic in meeting the expenses incurred during -the War of Independence. That the money thus obtained -was more or less squandered, and did not find its -way into legitimate channels, is probable enough; -nevertheless the liability was always admitted by the -existing Governments, although interest had ceased to -be paid on the loan for upwards of twenty years and -the original stock was almost worthless.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At the period I allude to the revenue and resources -of the country were small, and during the reign of -Rozas they were entirely under his private direction, -and the national means spent according to his will. In -fact, what is now known as the Argentine Republic had -no existence until after the downfall of Rozas in 1852, -Buenos Ayres up to that period exercising sovereign -control. A heavy internal debt, represented by paper -money, had also generally reduced the value of the -dollar (originally worth about four shillings) to two -<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>pence, and there appeared little chance of the English -bondholders ever obtaining again the money lent in -1824, through the agency of Messrs. Baring Brothers -and Co.</p> - -<p class='c000'>But on the downfall of Rozas, a new era dawned upon -the republic. Many illustrious citizens, who had been -obliged to expatriate themselves in order to save their -lives, returned to Buenos Ayres, and the principles of -constitutional government were again infused into the -body politic, subject, however, to many vicissitudes, -which, for a time, retarded internal progress, and prevented -the real resources of the country from being -profitably utilised. So soon as these difficulties were -overcome the question of its indebtedness forced itself -upon the Executive and Legislative powers, who wisely -decided that their first great financial effort should be -to come to some understanding with their English -creditors.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At the same time a movement was set on foot by the -bondholders themselves, and a Committee was formed -in London, under the auspices of Messrs. Baring -Brothers and Co., comprising some of the largest bondholders. -Negotiations were entered into with the -Buenos Ayres Government, who evinced every disposition -to meet the matter fairly; and eventually, in the -year 1857, an arrangement was come to by which the -original debt in full, with its accumulated interest, was -consolidated, and interest agreed to be paid thereon; -and this arrangement has been most faithfully adhered -to up to the present hour. The decree in which this -honourable recognition of a great principle is contained -is dated the 12th December, 1857, and is signed by the -Governor Filipe Llavallol and Norberto de la Riestra -the then Minister of Finance. I insert a copy of the -document itself:—</p> - -<div class='lg-container-l c021'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span><span class='sc'>Ministry of Finance.</span></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-r c021'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Buenos Ayres, Nov. 20th, 1857.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The Government of the State of Buenos Ayres, in virtue of the -authorisation conferred upon it by the law of the 28th of October -last, has made the following arrangement with Mr. George E. -White, representative of Messrs. Baring Brothers and Co., agents of -the loan contracted in London in 1824 for settlement of the said -debt, viz.:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 1st.—To meet the payment of the interest upon the original -bonds the Government of Buenos Ayres engages to remit to the -Loan in London in</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>1857</td> - <td class='c007'>the sum of £36,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>1858</td> - <td class='c007'>48,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>1859</td> - <td class='c007'>60,000</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>And from and after 1860, inclusive, besides the above-mentioned -sum of £60,000, it will also remit annually the sum of £5,000 as -a redemption fund. This sum, together with the interest of the -shares redeemed, or that may be redeemed, shall be employed, one -half each six months, in the purchase or redemption of the new bonds -of this class till the whole of them have been redeemed. The funds -corresponding to the stipulated remittances shall be placed in -London, one half before the 30th of June, and the other half before -the 31st of December in each year.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 2nd.—The sums appropriated to the redemption shall be -employed by the agents of the London Loan in the purchase of -bonds in the market at the current price so long as that is less than -par; but should the price of the bonds exceed par, the funds to be -redeemed by the redemption fund shall be determined by lot, in -presence of the principal agent or representative of the State of -Buenos Ayres existing in London.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bonds drawn by lot shall be published in the <cite>Gazette</cite>, or two -of the London journals, stating the day on which payment will be -made at par, and from which date they will cease to bear interest.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bonds purchased or redeemed by the redemption fund, with -their corresponding future dividends of interest, shall be cancelled -in presence of the principal agent or representative of the State of -Buenos Ayres in London, and immediately deposited in the Bank -of England, publishing their numbers in the <cite>Gazette</cite>, or in two of -the principal London journals.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 3rd.—The holders of the original bonds shall receive a new -list of debentures for their future dividends, with a copy annexed to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>it of the two preceding articles, beginning with the debenture for -the dividend that falls due on the 12th of January, 1861.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 4th.—For the interest due upon the original bonds up to this -date, and for those that fall due to the end of 1858, amounting to -the sum of £1,641,000, the Government of Buenos Ayres shall -emit new bonds to bear interest at the following rates, viz:—</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 5th.—From 1861 to 1865 inclusive, one per cent. per annum. -From 1866 to 1870 inclusive, two per cent., and from and after 1871, -three per cent. The first half-yearly dividend upon these new bonds -shall fall due on the 12th July, 1871, and subsequently on the 12th -January and 12th July of each year, on which days the half-yearly -instalments or dividends due shall be paid in London. All the -guarantees accorded to the original bonds shall be extensive to these -new bonds.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 6th.—The Government of Buenos Ayres engages to remit to the -agents of the loan in London the funds necessary for meeting the payment -of the interest assigned to these new bonds, and moreover, from -and after 1871, the sum of £8,205, or, say the 200th part of the total -amount of the said bonds, as a redemption fund for them. This -sum together with the interest of the bonds that have been redeemed -shall be employed in equal proportion every six months in the purchase -or redemption of these new bonds, till the whole of them have -been redeemed. Accordingly the sums that must be remitted to -meet the interest and redemption fund shall be as follows, viz., -from 1861 to 1865 inclusive, £24,615, annually; from 1866 to 1870 -inclusive, £41,025; and from and after 1871, the sum of £47,435; -the Government engaging to place these funds in London, one-half -before the 30th June, and the other half before the 31st December -of each year. The Government reserves to itself the right of -employing in the redemption of these new bonds, over and above -the sum stipulated, any further sums the Legislature may appropriate -to this purpose.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 7th.—The sums applicable to the redemption fund, as also -the others that may be destined to this purpose, shall be employed -by the agents of the loan in London, to the purchase of these new -bonds in the market, at the current price, always that this is less -than par; but in case the price of these bonds should come to -exceed par, the bonds that are to be redeemed shall be determined -by lot, and those that are drawn by lot, as also those purchased in -the market shall be published in the journals, paid and cancelled on -the respective debentures in the manner and form established in the -second Article in respect to the six per cent. bonds.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>Art. 8th.—The new bonds shall be denominated Three Per Cent. -Buenos Ayrean Bonds, shall be signed in the name of the State, by -the Minister of Finance in Buenos Ayres, and shall be emitted -through the medium of Messrs. Baring Brothers and Co., of London, -by whom they shall be countersigned.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Art. 9th.—The payments stipulated in the present convention are -specially assigned upon the products of the rents of the public lands -of the State, excepting those belonging to the Municipalities, and in -case of deficiency this shall be made up from the general rents of -the State, or from the special resources created by the Legislature -for the purpose.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The conduct of Buenos Ayres statesmen in respect -to the obligations referred to was fully appreciated in -this country, and the bonds gradually rose up to par -value, holding even during the great monetary crisis -a good position; nor must it be lost sight of that, -although the original debt was incurred for the benefit -of the entire Confederation, yet the Province of Buenos -Ayres alone took upon itself the sole responsibility; -and, up to the present confederation with the other -Argentine provinces, always paid the interest out of its -provincial resources.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Subsequent to the settlement of the English debt, -what is known as the National Government was formed, -and the internal debt of the entire provinces has been -consolidated into a national stock, bearing interest at 6 -per cent., which is punctually paid, and the stock, from -being worth 30 to 40 a few years back, has latterly -risen to 55, subject, of course, to fluctuations generally -caused by speculation on the Bolsa of Buenos Ayres, -where, for a long period, gambling in paper money was -the chief business, until a wise measure of Governor -Alsina, in establishing an Exchange Office, and fixing a -paper value for gold, put a stop to this element of -financial and social disturbance.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span>As already mentioned, there is a provincial revenue -and a national revenue, as well as expenditure; that of -Buenos Ayres being the most important, from its great -commercial wealth. Until recently, the only bonds -known here were those of Buenos Ayres. Now we -have what are called Argentine bonds, lately issued on -the security of the National Government; and in order -to show the nature of this latter security, as well as the -progressive state of the national revenue, I cannot do -better than quote the following figures, issued by their -able representative Minister, his Excellency Don Norberto -de la Riestra, in a circular dated 1st June last, -at the time he was negotiating this important transaction:—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='64%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='2%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>In 1864 the General National Revenue amounted to</td> - <td class='c017'>$7,005,328</td> - <td class='c018'>or</td> - <td class='c007'>£1,401,065</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>In 1865 it reached</td> - <td class='c017'>8,295,071</td> - <td class='c018'>or</td> - <td class='c007'>1,659,014</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>In 1866</td> - <td class='c017'>9,568,554</td> - <td class='c018'>or</td> - <td class='c007'>1,913,711</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>In 1867 the yield is estimated at</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>2,600,000</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>it having produced in the first eight months of the year $8,981,430.</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='64%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='2%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>The Revenue estimates for 1868 amount to</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>2,647,200</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>as follows:—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='64%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='2%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ordinary Import Duties</td> - <td class='c017'>$7,650,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ordinary Export Duties</td> - <td class='c017'>2,070,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Storage Dues</td> - <td class='c017'>350,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Stamps</td> - <td class='c017'>160,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Post Office and Miscellaneous</td> - <td class='c017'>206,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'>$10,436,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Additional Customs' Duties</td> - <td class='c017'>2,800,000</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'>$13,236,000</td> - <td class='c018'>or</td> - <td class='c007'>£2,647,200</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>The Budget of ordinary expenditure for 1868 amounts to</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>£1,581,649</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>as follows:—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='64%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='2%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ministry of the Interior</td> - <td class='c017'>$ 901,079</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ministry of Foreign Affairs</td> - <td class='c017'>99,538</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'><span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span>Ministry of Finance</td> - <td class='c017'>729,491</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ministry of Justice, &c.</td> - <td class='c017'>487,940</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Ministry of War and Marine</td> - <td class='c017'>3,116,593</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Service of Public Debt</td> - <td class='c017'>2,573,626</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'>$7,908,267</td> - <td class='c018'>or</td> - <td class='c007'>£1,581,649.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>The surplus revenue over ordinary expenditure is applied to -defray the extraordinary war expenses.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The above revenue is distinct and independent of the private -revenues, both State and Municipal, of the different Provinces of the -Republic, which are raised for local purposes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The Public Debt of the Republic at this time is as follows:—</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>External.</span>—Old Buenos Ayres Debt (London Loan of 1824) now in -charge of the nation, say:—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='64%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='2%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Original Six per Cent. Stock</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>£ 905,800</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Deferred Three per Cent. do.</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>1,110,900</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Argentine Six per Cent. Loan of 1866</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>540,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>£2,556,700</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Internal</span>.—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='64%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -<col width='2%' /> -<col width='16%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Consolidated Six per Cent. Argentine Stock</td> - <td class='c017'>$12,839,535</td> - <td class='c018'>or</td> - <td class='c007'>£2,567,907</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Buenos Ayres Public Stock (in paper currency)</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>596,988</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Paraná Debt 1858, including Interest</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>433,309</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Obligations to Foreign Creditors</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>18,852</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Loan from Brazilian Government 1851</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>228,541</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'>Loan from Brazilian Government 1865-66</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>400,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'><hr class='division' /></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>Total</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c007'>£4,245,597</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>There is besides a floating debt in Treasury Bills to a moderate -amount, which is being rapidly cancelled.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I think this statement, combined with the facts I have -elsewhere given from personal experience and observation, -as to the rapidly extending commerce of the -Argentine Confederation, will fully bear out the favourable -impression that is now gaining ground in England, -and in Europe generally, as to the <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">bona fide</span></i> security -presented by Argentine bonds; and I must say that, -looking back to the conscientious course pursued by the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span>Government, no country in the world deserves more to -enjoy the confidence of British capitalists.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It will be seen from Senor Riestra's statement that -the only foreign debt of the Argentine Republic is that -due to English bondholders. Her internal debt is due -chiefly to her own citizens, who are safe to be paid both -principal and interest; nor has any act of repudiation, -or compromise ever stained the character of the Argentine -people. The pursuance of this praiseworthy conduct -has been followed by the investment of British capital -in promoting railways and other industrial enterprises. -Indeed, look around in whatever direction we may, it is -difficult to find a more pleasing illustration of the maxim, -that “honesty is the best policy,” than that exhibited -by the Argentine Republic.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span> - <h2 class='c005'>TOWN AND HARBOUR OF SANTOS.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>Before recording the details of my passage home I -wish to say a few words more with regard to the -rising port of Santos, a notice of which has been -accidentally omitted in a former part of my work. Its -connection with the San Paulo Railway and the fact of -its being the shipping port of the province renders -Santos of much future importance. The distance from -Rio de Janeiro is about 200 miles, and the navigation -is simple enough—in fact, in sight of land the whole -way, the sea coast ridge of mountains being conspicuous. -The only danger is from the Alcatrazes rocks, which -lie some distance to the eastward of Santos, and very -ugly customers they are, towering a considerable height -above the sea. Steamers can, however, have no difficulty -in avoiding them after getting hold of the island -of San Sebastian, from the point of which the Santos -light becomes visible, and can be seen at a distance of -20 miles, but coasting craft require to keep a good lookout -at night. The light is placed on an island of some -elevation, covered with trees to the summit, and it has -a very picturesque appearance. Rounding a bluff point, -you enter at once what appears to be a river channel, -though it is an estuary, for Santos is really an island. -The passage is winding and the land on each side is -covered with shrubby vegetation, the distance up four -<span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span>miles, with deep water for vessels of 1,000 tons. There -are some scattered houses on the beach, chiefly used by -sea-bathing residents, and on one side is an antiquated -looking fort, supposed at one time to have guarded the -entrance of the estuary—a specimen of early Portuguese -defences; and on the island of Santos are the -remains of the old town of San Vincente, the first -founded on this part of the coast. The anchorage opposite -the town is convenient and well protected; several -wharves extend out where vessels lie alongside to discharge -and load cargo, and at the Custom House there -is an iron pontoon used for the same purpose. At this -wharf the steamer I came down in (1,000 tons burden) -received a full cargo and sailed within three days, a -feat without parallel in any other port in Brazil.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There is some pretty scenery around Santos—on the -coast side a range of hills, and opposite to the town, -across the estuary, rise the bold mountain ranges -covered with verdure. It is a pleasant ride round the -base of the hills on the seaside until you come to the -town of San Vincente. The railway is laid along a -swampy marsh, running parallel and close to the old -San Paulo road until it crosses the bridge of Cubitao, -which connects the island and the main land. The -town itself is long and straggling, containing from 8,000 -to 10,000 inhabitants, with some fine warehouses or -stores for storing coffee, cotton, or other country produce -previous to shipment. At the extremity of the -town is the railway station, a commodious building, -having wharves, alongside of which vessels can come, -and opposite to the station is what looks like a palace, -with two wings and a centre, the outside almost -entirely lined with ornamental blue Lisbon tiles, and -the whole bearing an appearance quite out of keeping -<span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span>with the general features of the place. It is the costly -hobby of an old Portuguese merchant, and intended for -his own residence, but it progresses very slowly towards -completion. The streets are paved with roughish -stones, not easy for a novice to walk on, but a great -improvement on the sandy element which formerly -characterised primitive Brazilian streets. The class of -buildings is generally solid, and there are some good, -well stocked shops. There is also a theatre on a very -diminutive scale, where I went to see an amusing -amateur performance, but the heat was stifling; nevertheless, -it was quite full, and some well dressed and -sprightly young ladies formed part of the audience, -and did not appear to be very much troubled by the -not very aromatic flavour of the atmosphere. It was a -relief to get into the fresh air for a few minutes between -the acts.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Santos is not to be judged by its present status, but -by what the railway must make it; and a few years will -produce a very great change, further accelerated by the -introduction of gas, water, and drainage, which are -here much needed, as well as in the City of San Paulo. -There is a specialty about the old Brazilian towns that -one cannot help being struck with, and they present a -striking contrast when railway innovation comes to -disturb the slumbrous habits of the people. As -a seaport and a rising town Santos is deserving of this -additional notice, and, I may observe, its close proximity -to the sea renders it exceedingly healthy.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span> - <h2 class='c005'>MR. PERKINS ON EMIGRATION.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>In the elaborate and interesting report of Mr. William -Perkins, who was at the head of a recent Government -expedition to El Rey, an old Spanish settlement in the -Gran Chaco, occurs the following remarks:—“The -northern part of the Province of Santa Fé is justly -considered the most important, being so highly -favoured by nature; and in truth the Creator has here -scattered with a prodigal hand all the elements capable -of attracting population and industry. For these reasons -it saddens the heart to see these magnificent lands -deserted, teeming as they do with natural riches. -Mighty rivers and streams cross each other in all directions; -first-class timber in the woods to an extent the -eye cannot reach; picturesque meadows of rich pasture,—in -a word, whatever can be desired for agricultural -and industrial pursuits.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mr. Perkins has been one of the most active and -intelligent agents in the cause of emigration to the -Argentine Republic and so soon as the land transfers -of the Central Argentine Railway are completed -the company intend to send him to the United States -and to England for the purpose of making arrangements, -and to bring out people to occupy their land, a desirable -step, which will at once enhance its value and that -<span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>of the immense tracts by which it is surrounded. The -peculiar feature of this railway is the territory attached -to the concession, namely, a league on each side of the -line, comprising a total of about a million of acres, -one half of which is the property of the contractors, the -other half belonging to the shareholders, who have, -besides, the national guarantee of 7 per cent. on the -capital of £1,600,000, which the railway is to cost, or -about £6,500 per mile. It is, perhaps, one of the -easiest railways in the world to make, the chief expense -being the rails and rolling stock, few earthworks or -ordinary sleepers being required. As I have before -noticed, there is plenty of wood higher up the country, -about Villa Nueva, where a large quantity of sleepers -of excellent quality were being prepared to complete -the line to Cordova.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In Mr. Perkins' report just alluded to are some very -graphic descriptions of the riverine facilities, at present -so little known or availed of, but it is to be hoped when -he revisits those scenes, after utilising his services at -home, he will return to see progress already made, and -some at least of the lands of the Central Argentine -Railway occupied by thriving settlers. It only requires -encouragement, and a beginning to be made, which I -believe will not long be delayed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Argentine Government has come forward to -assist the Argentine Railway by an issue of bonds for -£300,000, the contractors supplying the remaining -£300,000, which, with £1,000,000 in shares when the -company was formed, completed the capital. The -timely assistance thus rendered by the Government is -an earnest of their desire to see this great work accomplished, -in which the welfare of the upper provinces -is so deeply concerned, as there are no navigable rivers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_244'>244</span>running westward to Cordova, the Parana and the -Paraguay tending northward into Paraguay and Matto -Grosso. It follows, as a matter of course, that a large -portion of the produce of these western provinces will -find its way to Cordova and to the railway, amongst -them many articles which have never yet been brought -down to Rosario or Buenos Ayres, on account of the -great cost of transit.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Reverting to Mr. Perkins, his services in the cause -of exploration of the country have been very valuable, -and few there are better acquainted with the facilities it -presents for emigration, when once centres of population -are established by this main trunk railway from -Rosario to Cordova.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_245'>245</span> - <h2 class='c005'>MY VOYAGE HOME.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c009'>My visit has been prolonged by unforeseen events, but -I am on my way home again, on board the steamer -City of Buenos Ayres, commanded by my old friend -Captain Peters, also belonging to Tait's Line, which -has experienced some of the incidents and drawbacks -peculiar to the formation of new companies; but from -the spirit manifested by that firm, there is every prospect -of the enterprise proving a successful one. The -rapid increase of passenger trade to the River Plate is -a notable fact that has to be provided for, independent -of that to Brazil, which continues to assume larger proportions, -and steamers now will get a preference of -freight both ways. Two days after the storm at Buenos -Ayres, to which I have referred in another place, the -vessel was enabled to complete her cargo, and to get -under weigh at 9 p.m., on the 19th June, reaching Monte -Video at 11 a.m. on the following day. There was a -fresh breeze blowing, which rendered boating somewhat -hazardous, and prevented our leaving the harbour until -8 a.m. on Sunday, the 21st, when we steamed down -the river, passed Maldonada, and after five days we once -more entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro, where several -men-of-war were at anchor. As we passed the American -<span class='pageno' id='Page_246'>246</span>frigate Guerriere, the band struck up “God save the -Queen,” in compliment to our captain, who was a friend -of the American admiral. Her Majesty's ship Narcissus, -with Admiral Ramsay on board, was also lying in the -harbour, with the American steamer Kersseage, which -terminated the career of the world-famed cruiser, -Alabama, in the combat off Cherbourg.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The weather was beautifully fine, clear, and pleasant -at Rio, very different from that I had experienced -a few months previously, and rendered the two days on -shore very agreeable. I had a busy time of it, seeing -and taking leave of old friends, but managed to get -through, and embarked on Sunday afternoon. We -sailed down the harbour, again passing the men-of-war, -officers and crews of which were collected on deck, and -returned our salutation. Captain Wilson, flag-captain -of the Narcissus, lunched on board us, with some of -the officers, and a number of other friends of the passengers -were on board before we started. We passed -the fort at 5 p.m., when they very politely hoisted the -number, “Wish you a good voyage.” The scenery of -the bay looked, if possible, more magnificent than ever, -under the influence of the setting sun, the outline of -mountains being so clearly and vividly portrayed, and -few could leave so grand a scene without a feeling of -admiration and regret. Our passengers were a mixed -group (including about a dozen children of various -ages) of different nationalities, English, Scotch, Irish, -Belgian, Dutch, and Germans, so almost all languages -were spoken on board. Some English families were -returning from a residence of some years in the campos -of Buenos Ayres, not very well pleased with the result -of their speculation in sheep farming, which has no -doubt been a bad one of late, but I could not find -<span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span>from their report that they had undergone any particular -hardships, besides which they had other reasons for -returning home. As I have before observed, it is a -mistake for people to go out to the River Plate to commence -sheep farming under the idea they can realise a -fortune and retire in a few years. They must make -up their minds to rough it, and to persevere as they -would have to do at home in a similar occupation.<a id='r9' /><a href='#f9' class='c010'><sup>[9]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c000'>We had favourable weather, and crossed the line on -the eighth day after leaving Rio, expecting to reach St. -Vincent, our only place of call between Rio and Falmouth, -on the 10th of July, say thirteen days out, which is pretty -fair work for a steamer with only moderate power, and -carrying a large cargo. We passed many vessels -knocking about in what sailors call the “doldrums”—various -winds and calms—which prevail between the -north-east and south-east trades, and amused ourselves -with exchanging signals with several of them, getting -their names, destination, &c. The monotony of a sea -voyage is always relieved by incidents of this kind, and -making land, the latter generally creating much excitement.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span>We got into the harbour of St. Vincent about 8 p.m., -on the evening of Saturday, the 11th of July, in time -to be visited, and I went on shore to spend the night -with Mr. Miller, at his country place up the mountains, -about two-and-a-half miles distant from the Consulate. -It was dark, of course, but Mr. Miller's son led the way -on a pony, and I followed him on another, the ascent -being rather steep as we approached the house, which -is very nicely perched on ground levelled on a spur of -the mountain, and called Areia from the dark brown -colour of the hills. Sleeping at an elevation of 800 feet, -was a pleasant change after the rocking motion and -closeness of the steamer's cabin, and on looking out of -my window early next morning there was a charming -view of the little harbour, and the picturesque mountains -on all sides of it, wanting only verdure to -constitute an agreeable picture. Everything was burnt -up from the want of rain, which is expected about this -time, when I believe the Island wears quite a cheerful -aspect, though for a short time only. After breakfast, -we rode down to the Consulate, where I spent a portion -of the day, instead of being on board during the -delightful operation of coaling, when everything is -covered with coal dust. Mr. Miller has a farm on the -other side of the island, where he is cultivating vines, -fruits, and vegetables, having a supply of water on the -spot,—the most difficult of all things to find—and he -has by means of a large tank, brought a supply into the -town.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I have before alluded to the great advantage presented -by St. Vincent as a coaling station, and to the facilities -Mr. Miller has provided to carry it on—which he is -continually adding to. A steamer can take on board -200 to 300 tons of coal in a few hours, and lately the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span>Tamer, on her way home from the Cape, took in upwards -of 600 tons during daylight. It was Sunday -again when we were there (a constant recurrence during -the last six months, when I have been so often in and -out of ports); but we were coaled and all ready to start -by 5 p.m. Unfortunately, some little repairs to the -boiler tubes were not completed, and we did not get -up steam until 1 a.m. on Monday morning, thus losing -several hours. The night was fine, and we soon got -again into the open sea, on our way to Falmouth, steaming -against a north-east trade. The Zaire, Portuguese -mail steamer from Africa, came into St. Vincent on -Sunday for a small supply of coal, sailing again in a few -hours. The only other vessels were a small paddle -wheel steamer, bound to Bahia, intended for the navigation -of the bay, and two vessels discharging coal. At -times there is quite a little fleet there, and a good many -steamers are shortly expected to call with troops on -their way back from the Abyssinian expedition.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Four days' hard tugging against a strong north-east -trade has diminished our hopes of a tolerably quick -passage. During the many passages I have made I do -not recollect such strong trades at this season of the -year. Our progress has, in consequence, been very -slow, not averaging more than 150 miles in the twenty-four -hours; and the only amusement, if it can be called -such, is to exchange signals with vessels passing us, -going along with the wind right aft and all sail set. -It is steaming against these north-east trades that -generally renders the homeward passage so much longer -than the outward one, unless a steamer has great power. -Still it is an immense stride over the old days of sailing -ships, which generally took fifty or sixty days home -from Rio, and often more. The trim of the vessel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span>being rather too much by the head, some cargo has -been removed from the fore to the after hold, and the -top gallant yards struck, offering less resistance to the -wind.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Two more days of trade winds, dead against us, the -time being only relieved by passing a large number of -sailing ships and exchanging signals with them. It -would appear as if they had experienced some detention -in crossing the bay, and that a considerable fleet had -reached the latitude of Madeira in time to avail of the -strong north-east trades between Madeira and St. Vincent. -Sunday, 19th July, we passed close to the Island of -Madeira, topped with clouds, preventing our seeing more -than the outline, and the verdure and cultivation lies -on the eastern side; still it is an event that breaks the -monotony of a voyage. Before this day week, if all is -well, we hope to reach Falmouth. On Thursday, 23rd -July, after three days of almost complete calm, with -scarcely a ripple or movement on the water at times, -looking for a favourable breeze to waft us to Falmouth, -this morning our old friend, the persevering north-easter, -came on again, right in the middle of the Bay of -Biscay, and we were compelled to steam head to wind, -with a considerable sea getting up. At this season of the -year westerly winds generally prevail in these latitudes, -but we have not met with any, nor been able to make -any use of our canvas from the latitudes of 10° north. -Numerous sailing vessels keep passing us with studding -sails set, but there is no help for it. From this date -up to the time of our making Falmouth on the morning -of Sunday, the 26th, it blew almost a gale, with a nasty -rough sea, against which our progress was very slow. -We steamed into the harbour on a miserably cold, wet -day, but the fields about appeared burnt up for want of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span>moisture, and we learnt that the weather had been -exceedingly hot. I did not find the Railway Hotel -much improved as regards board and attendance, which -is a great pity, as it is a spacious, comfortable house, -situated in one of the most picturesque spots in England, -and would be very attractive with better management.</p> - -<hr class='c012' /> - -<div class='footnote' id='f9'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. </span><span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span>A life in the camp may not be very agreeable, or such as is experienced -on a farm at home. People have to put up with a good deal if they wish -to better their condition, and remember that it is not always a matter of -choice, but of necessity, which compels them to seek their fortunes in a -foreign country. Those who can live comfortably or find suitable occupation -at home should remain there. One of the great drawbacks to the -success of young Englishmen out in the camp is, I am sorry to say, the -terrible propensity to indulgence in the free use of ardent spirits, which -soon enfeebles their constitution and often leads to an untimely grave. -This a little self-denial would soon enable them to avoid. Several of -these melancholy instances occurred during my short stay in the country. -The climate itself is sufficiently stimulating without the excitement arising, -from the brandy bottle, the use of which, even in towns and cities, is -often carried to excess. As a rule, the natives are sober, and set a good -example to foreigners in this respect if they would only profit by it.</p> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span> - <h2 class='c005'>APPENDIX.</h2> -</div> - -<h3 class='c015'>POSSESSIONS AND PRODUCTS OF THE DIFFERENT PROVINCES OF BRAZIL.</h3> - -<p class='c024'><span class='sc'>S. Pedro do Rio Grande do Sul</span> (situated between 27° 50´ and -33° 45´ S. latitude).—Possesses coal mines and other minerals; -herva-matte, natural pasture grounds perfectly appropriate to the -successful breeding of cattle, mules, horses, and sheep.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces wheat, barley, potatoes, grapes, and all the fruits of -temperate climates; cotton, and different grains of tropical -climates.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Santa Catharina</span> (24° 53´ and 27° 50´ S. latitude).—Possesses coal -mines and a great quantity of iron ores; timber, woods for -cabinet work and dye woods; natural pasture for the breeding of -cattle, mules, horses, and sheep.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces wheat, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, coffee, and all the -grains of tropical countries.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Parana</span> (between 20° and 27° 20´ lat. South).—Possesses diamond -and gold mines; herva-matte in great abundance, natural -pastures for the breeding of cattle, horses, mules, and sheep.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces wheat, oats, barley, hemp, flax, potatoes, grapes, and -nearly all the fruits of temperate climates; cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, -coffee, and all the grains of tropical climates.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>S. Paulo</span> (between 19° 40´ and 25° 40´ lat. South).—Possesses mines -of iron ore, copper, silver, gold, precious stones, coal; natural -pastures for the breeding of cattle, mules, sheep and swine; woods -of different sorts.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces wheat, flax, grapes, and nearly all the fruits of temperate -climates; tea, coffee, and sugar-cane in great abundance; -cotton, tobacco, and all the grains of tropical countries.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span><span class='sc'>Rio de Janeiro</span> (Capital of the Empire of Brazil, between 21° -25´ and 23° 25´ lat. South).—Possesses iron mines, clays for china -ware and porcelain; woods and timber of all sorts.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces excellent coffee and sugar-cane, tea, cotton, and all -the grains of the tropics.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Espirito Santo</span> (between 18° 50´ and 21° 20´ lat. South).—Possesses -gold, iron, and diamond mines; excellent timber and woods for -cabinet work; breeds cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces coffee, sugar-cane, cotton, and all the grains of the -tropics.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Bahia</span> (between 9° 35´ and 18° lat. South).—Possesses rich gold, -diamond, silver, iron, copper, coal, and marble mines; timber and -Brazil wood; breeds cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces sugar-cane, coffee, excellent tobacco, cotton, cocoa, -clove, and all the grains of the tropics.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Sergipe</span> (between 10° 30´ and 11° 40´ lat. South).—Possesses gold -and diamond mines; marble, crystals, nitron, nitrates of soda -salts; iron, slate, salines, precious woods and plants, vanilla.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces abundantly sugar-cane, cotton, and all tropical -grains.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Alagoas</span> (between 8° 50´ and 10° 80´ lat. South).—Possesses mines -of anthracite, bituminous schist; timber, Brazil wood.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces sugar-cane, tobacco, and all tropical grains.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Pernambuco</span> (between 7° 10´ and 9° 45´ lat. South).—Possesses unexplored -mines, timber; Brazil wood, breeds excellent cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces very abundantly sugar-cane, cotton, and all tropical -products.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Parahyba</span> (between 6° 15´ and 7° 50´ lat. South).—Possesses gold -mines, iron ores, saltpetre; timber and wood for cabinet work, -Brazil wood; breeds cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces sugar cane, cotton, and all tropical grains.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Rio Grande do Norte</span> (between 4° and 6° 10´ lat. South).—Possesses -gold and silver mines, abundant Brazil wood, carnaúba, -cochineal; breeds cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces cotton, sugar-cane, and all tropical grains.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Ceara</span> (between 2° 45´ and 7° 10´ lat. South),—Possesses mines of -gold, silver, lead, iron, <span lang="la" xml:lang="la">antimonium</span>, amianthus, coal, marble, -nitron, salines; timber, wood for cabinet work and dyeing, quinine, -ipecacuanha, carnaúba; breeds excellent cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces coffee, sugar-cane, cotton.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Piauhy</span> (between 2° 40´ and 11° 25´ lat. South).—Breeds much cattle, -horses and mules.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces all tropical fruits.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Maranhao</span> (between 1° 10´ and 7° 30´ lat. South).—Possesses gold -mines, splendid timber, and other woods of all sorts; breeds -cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces in great abundance cotton, rice, sugar-cane, and all -the other tropical products.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span><span class='sc'>Para</span> (between 4° lat. North and 8° lat. South).—Possesses in great -abundance the indiarubber tree, sarsaparilla, copaiba, vanilla, -clove, vegetable ivory, and rich woods of all sorts; breeds cattle -and turtles.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces cocoa, tobacco, cotton, and sugar-cane.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Amazonas</span> (between 4° lat. and 10° lat. South).—Possesses mines of -crystals, marble, silver; precious woods of all sorts, the indiarubber -tree in great quantity, sarsaparilla, ipecacuanha, cloves; -breeds cattle and turtles.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces in extraordinary abundance all tropical fruits.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Minas Geraes</span> (between 14° and 20° lat. South).—Possesses gold -mines, diamonds, precious stones, iron; natural prairies, where -much cattle and swine are bred.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces in abundance cotton, tobacco, coffee, tea, sugar-cane, -and all tropical grains.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Goyaz</span> (between 7° and 20° lat. South).—Possesses mines of gold, -iron, diamonds, and crystals; Brazil wood, logwood, and many -medicinal plants; breeds cattle, horses, and swine.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco, and all tropical grains.</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='sc'>Matto Grosso</span> (between 7° and 24° 30´ South).—Possesses mines of -gold, diamond, iron, and copper; timber and medicinal plants as -ipecacuanha; breeds cattle.</p> - -<p class='c014'>Produces coffee, tobacco, and all tropical grains.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>BRAZILIAN FINANCES.—LAW OF 1860.</h3> - -<p class='c016'>The following are the chief leading provisions of this law, which -may be called the Banking Law of Brazil:—</p> - -<p class='c000'>1st. To limit the issues of independent banks to the average of -the first six months of 1860 during the suspension of cash payments.</p> - -<p class='c000'>2nd. To limit the issues of the Bank of Brazil and its branches to -double its unengaged funds, the Government being empowered to -grant their issue to be raised to three times the value of the said -disengaged funds, but this only in case they do not exceed the -average of its issues since its foundation. All this during the suspension -of cash payments.</p> - -<p class='c000'>3rd. To abolish small note issues of the independent banks. The -Bank of Brazil to withdraw from circulation its small notes if -within six months it did not resume cash payments.</p> - -<p class='c000'>4th. To contract the issue of all banks at the rate from 3 to 12 -per cent. if within a year they did not resume cash payments.</p> - -<p class='c000'>5th. To subject for the future banks to the Bankruptcy Law, in -case of their not paying their notes in gold.</p> - -<p class='c000'>6th. To appoint an official Government Inspector for each bank.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span>7th. To limit the dividends of all commercial companies to their net -profits on each half-year's operations.</p> - -<p class='c000'>8th. To prohibit the issue of promissory, or other notes to bearer, -without authorisation of the Legislature, except cheques on -bankers.</p> - -<p class='c000'>9th. To allow to the banks the mutual exchange of their notes -received in payment.</p> - -<p class='c000'>10. To submit to the Government's approval all sorts of companies -and corporations, after certain formalities for the guarantee -of the public.</p> - -<p class='c000'>11th. To make concessions for banks of issue for railways and -canals dependent on the Legislature.</p> - -<p class='c000'>12th. To regulate the organisation of savings-banks, friendly -societies, and pawnbrokers.</p> - -<p class='c000'>13th. To substitute the copper coins by bronze.</p> - -<p class='c000'>14th. Finally, to facilitate the acquisition of the Railways for -the State by exchanging their bonds for Government internal stock -of 6 per cent., or for external of 4½, both at par.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Of such efficacious character were the provisions adopted by the -Law of 1860 that the foreign exchange, infallible thermometer of -the circulating medium, was gradually rising, and from 25¾d., where -it was at the publication of the said law, it rose to 27⅝d., that is to -say, it went above par, and this was the rate at the time when the -financial crisis of 1864 occurred. Accordingly the market price of -bullion also went down.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>WORKSHOPS OF THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES.</h3> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>(From the <cite>Buenos Ayres Standard</cite>.)</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>Buenos Ayres has at last thrown off the mantle of dignified idleness -in which she has been so long enveloped, and is taking her -place amongst the leading nations of the earth. The days are past -when every article for social comfort or consumption had to be -imported from abroad. We are creeping along in the right path at -last, and Governor Alsina and Emilio Castro are head workmen of -Buenos Ayres. They are creating mechanical power in this country, -calculated at no very distant date to develop the resources of her -natural wealth to such a point that it will enlarge her credit, -extend her commerce, and give birth to manufactures.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Happy indeed is it for the interests of this country that so immense -a capital has found its way into steam hammers, saws, lathes, -and all the mighty elements which mechanical genius has called -into the service of man. We are on the right track at last, and -people who want to judge of the real progress of this place should -visit the workshops of the Western Railway. Within the last few -<span class='pageno' id='Page_257'>257</span>years this grand mart of mechanical industry has sprung into existence. -We recollect Buenos Ayres without a railway—still more -without a workshop—unless the humble smith's forge may be -dubbed by this title; but on last Wednesday it was with agreeable -astonishment we witnessed the foundries, shops, forges, warehouses, -&c., all in full play, and every man at his post; in fact, the only alloy -to our feelings of satisfaction was the utter absence of the youth of -the country from these, the finest and best schools for boys and -young men. The whole mechanical work going on is in the hands -almost exclusively of foreigners, and hardly a single native boy as -apprentice for the entire length and breadth of the establishment is -to be seen. We trust when the great advantages of these shops are -brought properly before the public that we shall see some change in -this respect.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At one o'clock a select party attended at the Railway Station -in the Parque, to witness the working of some new machinery sent -out recently by Mr. Thomas Allen, the Government engineer abroad. -We noticed, amongst those present, Dr. Rawson, Sres. Gonsalez, -Santa Maria, Coghlan, Gowland, Fleming, Aguirre, Velez, Castro, -Gutierrez, Dr. Seguel, and several other leading men whose names -we forget. A beautiful model locomotive was, with the aid of a small -kerosene lamp, set a-going; it worked on a tray, and fairly -astonished with the precision of its movements some Cordova -friends present. A portable galvanic telegraphic apparatus was -next introduced, and one of the operatives in charge showed the -working of it, the great merit of which appeared to us to be its -extreme simplicity. On the table lay drawings of the new fountains -for the Water Works; the “<span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">jet d'eau</span>” for the Plaza Victoria is a -truly magnificent and useful ornament; it will cost when put up -about £1,500, but those for the other Plazas are less expensive.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At the Parque Station they have now a complete set for twelve -stations of Morse's Printing Telegraph. Everything has arrived in -first-rate order for connecting Rosario with this city. There are -over 500 wrought iron posts, with twelve tables. The whole affair -will cost, we believe, about £11,000. The manager, or chief electrician, -is expected out in the packet; at present M. Ringallé is in -charge. Four telegraph clerks have also been engaged in England.</p> - -<p class='c000'>About half-past one we proceeded to the special train in waiting to -convey us to the Once Setiembre depots. We noticed that the -Bragge roof is completely worn away, but we understand that the -new iron and glass roof, from England, has arrived, and will be put -up immediately. Every day materials are arriving from abroad, -owing to the convenience of having such a practical agent as Mr. -Thomas Allen, who, from his lengthened experience on the road, -knows precisely what is wanted and what will suit. A large turning -table is now coming out, upwards of forty-two feet. It will be -the largest in the country; it was made at Birmingham, and will be -put up at the Parque Central Station; also a large travelling truck, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_258'>258</span>to carry railway carriages, waggons, &c., from one line to another. -We entered Governor Alsina's state coach, being accompanied by the -guests, and pushed on for the depots. The coach is elegantly fitted -up with every convenience, and we are surprised his Excellency the -Governor does not take a trip out twice a week to Chivilcoy or -Mercedes.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Arriving at the depots, we first entered the foundry department, -and came on a hydraulic press used for taking the wheels off axles; -it works up to a pressure of fifty tons; three men work it, and it is -one of the most useful machines in the shop, doing in ten minutes -the work of ten men for a whole day.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Next we inspected a hydraulic pump for trying the state of -boilers to 500 lbs. per square inch, which is constantly in use.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A large planing machine next met the eye. This machine planes -up to nine feet, and is used for making points and crossings, or any -large planing, and is worked by a boy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Alongside is a small screw cutting lathe, twelve inch centres. -This machine is useful for all kinds of work.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Then we have a small lathe for brass turning, eight inch centres, -worked by apprentices.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Further on is a screwing machine, patented by Messrs. Sharpe, -Stewart & Co., of Manchester, to screw from ¼ to 1½ inches; also -worked by a boy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another machine, patented by the same firm, called a shaping -machine, for all kinds of work; one of the most useful in the shop, -and worked by apprentices.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Next comes a break lathe; will turn up to six feet for screw -cutting and for all other kind of work; attended to by operatives.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The shaft pump supplies the great tank with water from a huge -<span lang="es" xml:lang="es">algibe</span>, throwing up 3,500 gallons 18 feet high. This water is used -for washing boilers, &c.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The large wheel lathe, a ponderous machine, turns wheels six feet -diameter: this is used to repair wheels, which, being in constant use, -require continued attention—worked by an operative.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Then comes a double-faced wheel lathe, turning two wheels at -one time; turns up to 4 feet diameter—worked by an operative.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The large stationary engine, the great motive power of the whole -shop, drives all the shafts, is 12-horse power, burning about three -quarters of a ton of slack and ashes per day—attended by one -operative.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The patent silent fan, which is used to supply six blacksmiths' -forges, making 2,000 evolutions per minute.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Then comes the monarch of the shop, the steam hammer. Here -we witnessed the strokes of this huge machine, at which even Vulcan -himself would stare. The noise of this hammer striking on the -red hot bars echoed around the whole square. Mr. Daniel Gowland -remarked that the first steam hammer he ever saw in South -America was in the ill-fated Paraguay.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_259'>259</span>There are six blacksmiths' forges constantly at work, fed by the -steam fan, and always occupied in repairing locomotives, coaches, -waggons, &c.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mr. Manier is the foreman of this shop. Before, however, we -leave it, we must notice the casting or blast foundry. Whilst we -were present we witnessed the workmen casting old brass into -new plates, which latter arrangement realised an immense saving, -and redounds to the credit of the indefatigable Emilio Castro, who -perceived the great loss in selling old brass and buying new; and -last, not least, we must not omit the huge punching machine, very -useful in its way, but little used. It punches quarter inch to an -inch, and cuts up to three quarter boiler plates.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The repairing shop is large (50 metres by 50), and capable of holding -thirty locomotives; we noticed four locomotives under repair. -Damaged engines are here turned out as good as new; and, indeed, -Mr. John Allen, who is the moving genius of the whole mechanical -department, assures us that they can make their own locomotives, -so replete with every utensil are the shops; but, of course, it is -cheaper to import them. Two damaged engines were landed not -long ago, and were about to be sold by auction, but Mr. Allen took -them in hand, and now they are in excellent working order. Owing -to the great falling off of traffic on the line, there are now only eight -engines daily under steam, whereas this time last year they had sixteen; -but in this shop all kinds of repairs can be done. Already the -shops have built several first and second-class coaches—genuine -native industry.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We next pass to the coach and waggon shop, (50 by 12), capable -of holding about twelve carriages. Here all the coaches are overhauled, -repaired, varnished, and even the upholstery attended to, -and coaches built. The only thing which as yet baffles the mechanics -are the wheels, which must be imported.</p> - -<p class='c000'>And now we come to the new carpenter's shop, where the new -machines sent out by Mr. Allen have been just put up.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The chief attraction is the new machine which, as it does every -imaginable kind of work, is called the “General Joiner.” None of -the gentlemen present could give us the exact name in Spanish for -this machine, so we call it the “Nuevo Carpintero General.” A -facetiously disposed writer might opine that as President Mitre has -given to the Republic a new cavalry major, Governor Alsina, not to be -outdone, has given his country a new “General,” the best and most -potent general in the Republic; and we congratulate the Governor -on the acquisition of the new “Carpintero General.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>We all stood astonished at the work it did, and have not now -time to explain its varied powers; it plains, moulds, and saws planks -of every size in a few moments; and beside it we noticed the new -endless saw; also the jigger saw for pattern making; also the new -wood turning lathe, and the large drilling machine, the largest in -this country for drilling wheels.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_260'>260</span>In the yard we noticed sixty pair of extra wheels from the States, -but at these depots they have an immense extra supply of everything.</p> - -<p class='c000'>And if we were to stop to detail all we saw in those wondrous -workshops it would fill half-a-dozen <cite>Standards</cite>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The works are a credit to Buenos Ayres, and an honour to the -present Administration. We left these busy haunts with the most -favourable impressions, well recollecting that but a few years ago -this very site was a rude brick-kiln.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Yes, there is vitality, after all, in Buenos Ayres, and if any man -doubts it, let him pay a visit on a working day to these shops. The -store-rooms, under the charge of Mr. Tucker, are replete with everything, -and the wool depots are the grandest and most extensive in -the country, capable of holding at one time 100 waggons.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There are sixty-eight mechanics in the workshops constantly -employed; 600 men engaged in working the line.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mr. Emilio Castro, head director; Don Luis Elordi, second in -command; Mr. John Allen next; and Mr. Zimmermann head -electrician.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>SANITARY CHARACTER OF THE ANDINE HEIGHTS.</h3> - -<p class='c016'>We have made the following extracts from an article published in -the “Revista de Buenos Ayres,” on the climates of the Andine -Heights, and mountains of Cordova, written by Dr. Scrivener, who -has himself resided for many years in those countries. The “Revista -de Buenos Ayres” is a most valuable publication, and those who are -interested in South America will find much reliable information in -it. It contains many curious articles on the history and literature -of the country. It has now reached its 13th volume, each book containing -640 pages, 8vo.:—</p> - -<p class='c000'>The sky at the Andine Mountains is pure azure, and the atmosphere -bright and clear, and is so very transparent that it enables -you to see objects at a distance, making them apparently close at -hand, although in reality it would require a journey of several days -to reach them.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The climate is fine and healthy, the lightness of the atmosphere -produces an exhilarating effect, and an increase of energy and activity. -The grandeur and magnificence of the mountains fill the mind with -sentiments of veneration and awe.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I have traversed these mountains on many occasions, and am -therefore enabled to form an opinion of the salubrity of the climate, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_261'>261</span>as also of that on the route from the Province of Cordova to the -banks of the Pacific. All over this vast tract of land, that fatal -enemy of man, the tubercular phthisis, so justly feared by the -inhabitants of Lima, and Buenos Ayres, is entirely unknown.</p> - -<p class='c000'>During a residence of nearly ten years in different and widely -spread districts of the whole country, I never saw nor heard, either -directly or indirectly, through my intercourse with others, of the -existence of that disease.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Doctor Smith remarks,<a id='r10' /><a href='#f10' class='c010'><sup>[10]</sup></a> “that incipient and tubercular phthisis, -usually attended with more or less hemoptysis, is one of the most -common pulmonary affections known in Lima and other parts of the -coast of Peru.</p> - -<p class='c000'>“Besides, it is a disease almost certainly cured if taken in time, -by removing the <em>coast</em> patient to the open inland valley of Jauja, -which runs from ten to eleven thousand feet above the sea level.</p> - -<p class='c000'>“This fact has been known and acted upon from time immemorial -by the native inhabitants and physicians, and I have,” observes that -physician, “sent patients from the capital to Jauja, in a very advanced -state of phthisis, with open ulcerations and well marked -caverns on the lungs, and have seen them again after a lapse of a -little time, return to their homes free from fever, and with every -appearance of the disease being arrested; but in many instances it -would, after a protracted residence on the coast, again become -necessary to return to the mountains, to prevent a recurrence of the -disease.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>We thus learn from the preceding extract, that the influence of -the atmosphere in the mountains of Peru will remove pulmonary -consumption in its first stage, and arrest its progress when far -advanced. That such is the fact, I can also myself vouch from -my own experience during a residence of sixteen years in that -country.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Dr. Jourdant remarks,<a id='r11' /><a href='#f11' class='c010'><sup>[11]</sup></a> “that consumption is very rare in high -elevations, which is not to be attributed to the latitude of the place, -but to its elevation; that Mexico and Puebla, which are almost free -from this disease, are in the same latitude as Vera Cruz, where it -prevails; and that the condition of the patient who suffers from consumption -is considerably relieved in elevated districts, which he -attributes to a less amount of oxygen in the rarified air.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>From these facts we can assert with safety, that those who -unfortunately suffer from incipient tubercular phthisis, will almost -with certainty obtain a cure in the mountainous districts which -extend at a higher or lower elevation from the province of Cordova -to the valley of Rimac, whilst, on the other hand, those in -the later stages of that malady will find it will be arrested, and -that their lives will be prolonged for years.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_262'>262</span>It becomes a matter for most serious consideration, whether it -would not be well for patients suffering from pulmonary complaints -to seek the renovation of their health in these salubrious regions, in -preference to the Island of Madeira, Italy, and the South of France, -where these diseases are known to originate, and where hundreds -have gone to without obtaining any advantages, and many with -positively evil results.</p> - -<p class='c000'>“There is something,” says Mr. Burkhardt,<a id='r12' /><a href='#f12' class='c010'><sup>[12]</sup></a> “like the sound of -a death-knell in the physician's mandate sending the sick patient to -those places and scenes where so many fellow-sufferers have preceded -him, in vain search for health, and found—a grave.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>The invalid will not find this in these healthy districts. In the -mountains of Cordova, as well as on the Andine Heights, the patient -will find his disease alleviated, and in time removed, (let him come -from what quarter of the globe he may) by the hand of Nature. -There pulmonary complaints are never known to originate, and -there those who suffer from it, on the borders of the Parana and the -River Plate, seek and find a permanent cure for their ailments proceeding -from all affections of the lungs. “He will not have before -his imagination the phantoms of numberless victims, his predecessors -in the same hopeless career, to cast the shadow of death -upon a being already depressed in mind by disease and loneliness, -and pining after the familiar sights and sounds he may perhaps -never hear again.” There, on the contrary, he will be in the midst -of all that is grand—a thousand magnificent objects will excite -his attention, and divert his mind from his unhappy malady, on -which he will not dwell, but, on the contrary, on well founded -hopes of a perfect recovery and a speedy return to his family and -friends.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We believe, that when the benefits to be derived from a residence -in the climate of these mountains are more generally known in -Europe, very many who suffer from pulmonary complaints will visit -these regions for a renovation of their health and system.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We would recommend the mountains of Cordova to consumptive -patients, in preference to the Andine Heights of Bolivia, as being the -nearest to the River Plate, and containing a greater variety of -objects to divert the attention and amuse. The facility of transport, -the shortness of the passage, combined with a well-founded hope of -renovating the health, will be of themselves sufficient reasons for -undertaking the journey.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The passage from England can be made in thirty-four days. There -are several lines of merchant steamers, from London and Liverpool, -as well as the Government vessels from Southampton and Bordeaux, -which arrive at Buenos Ayres every month. From this port you -can embark in a steamer for the city of Rosario, which is most -beautifully situated on the banks of the river Parana, and is the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_263'>263</span>finest port in the Argentine Confederation, at which you arrive in -about twenty-six hours.</p> - -<p class='c000'>From thence you take the Argentine Central Railway, and arrive -at the city of Cordova on the same day.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Here commence the serraicias or mountainous districts, which -extend to the valley of Rimac, comprising an area of about 1,000 -leagues.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We believe that at no very distant time, a public establishment -will be founded in the mountains of Cordova for consumptive -patients; should this be the case, we can vouch that there would be -no lack of visitors willing to support the establishment, and anxious -to aid it by their means, in exchange for the benefits they have -received there; the natural grandeur and magnificence of the mountain -scenery would also contribute, in no small degree, to the attractions -of the place, and the benefit of the invalids.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The city of Cordova is situated in a deep valley on the banks of a -river, amidst the most beautiful and varied scenery.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Ascending from the city to the mountains, the traveller finds -every variety of climate, with a difference of temperature at every -additional ascent.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In these varieties of temperature, he will be certain to find one -that is suitable to his complaint, and agreeable to himself.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The tops and sides of the mountains are partly covered with trees -and shrubs, and the soil in the valley is rich and very fertile, producing -Indian corn, wheat, barley, sundry fruits and vegetables, and -whatever the husbandman may desire to cultivate. Cattle, horses, -mules, with sheep and goats, roam in large herds, on most excellent -pasture. Huanacos and other wild animals inhabit the mountains. -The wool of the sheep is of a superior quality and highly prized in -the European markets.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There are great varieties of trees on the plains, many of which are -very lofty, and their branches form an agreeable shade, as well as -add to the beauty of the scenery. The timber of these trees is of -superior quality, well suited for the construction of houses, and in -the manufacture of furniture, &c.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There are mines of gold, silver, copper, and iron; the latter is very -abundant and of good quality; there are also marble quarries, and -the marble is very fine and of different colours; limestone of an -extremely white nature is abundant; in short, there are few spots -in the world where nature has lavished such a variety of animals, -vegetables, and mineral productions as the province of Cordova.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It must follow, that with all these natural advantages, a country -producing every commodity for the subsistence of man, and capable -of affording all that tends to the convenience and luxury of life, will -become at no distant period the abode of a numerous, industrious -and wealthy population.</p> - -<p class='c000'>For a long period the Jesuits held their head-quarters in this -province, and they were remarkable for their tact and knowledge in -selecting the most healthy and fertile spots for their residences.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_264'>264</span>They erected in the capital the finest churches in the Argentine -Confederation: they acquired large possessions throughout the province, -and they also built splendid country mansions, which are -models of art, taste, and convenience.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The fine edifices at Santa Catalina, Jesus Maria, and Caraga, are -much visited and greatly admired by strangers.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It has been truly remarked by an eminent writer, that the greatest -wonder of the age is a locomotive engine; that since its adoption -travellers have been multiplied through the facility of transit: and -that the greater those facilities, the greater the number of travellers. -These facts have become generally known in this Republic, where -several railways have already been made, and others are being constructed. -The Central Argentine Railway, when completed, will -extend from the city of Rosario to Cordova; this will be a great and -lasting benefit to the commerce of the country. Cordova is now -the grand emporium of the inland provinces; their productions of -hides, wool, cotton, indigo, sugar, wine, wheat, tobacco, skins of -animals, gold, silver, copper, iron and other valuable productions, -are transported thither and conveyed by rail to the port of Rosario -and shipped for Buenos Ayres, or direct to Europe. This railway -extends 248 miles in length. Passengers have much increased since -the opening of this line to Villa Nueva, and will still further increase -on its completion to Cordova. In addition to men of business, many -will avail themselves of it as a journey of pleasure, to visit the city -and its beautiful mountain scenery.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Those who are fond of this kind of scenery will find much to please -them. The mineralogist will see minerals, and the botanist plants, -to attract their attention. We fully believe that before the lapse of -many years strangers from Buenos Ayres, and other provinces, will -build cottages in these beautiful and healthy regions, which would -only require taste in their erection, and judgment in selecting the -sites, to render them all that can be imagined as beautiful and -romantic.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>BUENOS AYRES AND THE OTHER PROVINCES A FIELD FOR EUROPEAN IMMIGRATION.</h3> - -<p class='c016'>The following interesting and reliable statement has been published -and circulated under the authority of the Argentine Government:—</p> - -<p class='c000'>The recommendations of the Argentine Republic to Europeans -are:—</p> - -<p class='c000'>1. That the climate is as healthy and as favourable to vigour and -longevity as that of England, or any other country of Europe.</p> - -<p class='c000'>2. That its cultivable lands are practically of unlimited extent, -and require no outlay for clearing.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_265'>265</span>3. That it contains already, and especially at Buenos Ayres, the -Capital, a large and prosperous European population, composed of -Italians, French, English, Scotch and Irish, Germans, Portuguese, -and others.</p> - -<p class='c000'>4. That the Government is solidly established and perfectly -liberal, the aim of all parties being to maintain the financial honour -of the country, to preserve peace, and to promote the development -of industry and commerce.</p> - -<p class='c000'>5. That, while the State religion is Roman Catholic, complete -toleration is upheld, churches of all denominations being established -at Buenos Ayres and other places, where a considerable portion of -the settlers are English or German Protestants, or Scotch Presbyterians.</p> - -<p class='c000'>6. That there is fortnightly<a id='r13' /><a href='#f13' class='c010'><sup>[13]</sup></a> postal communications with England -and the Continent by powerful Mail Steamers from Southampton -and Bordeaux.</p> - -<p class='c000'>7. That the commercial policy of the country is in the direction -of free trade.</p> - -<p class='c000'>8. That there is a treaty of amity, commerce, and navigation -between Great Britain and the Republic, and that foreigners are -exempted from compulsory military service or forced loans.</p> - -<p class='c000'>9. That there are a sufficient number of British subjects in the -Republic to render a knowledge of the Spanish language non-essential -for immigrants, and that this language is capable, during a -short residence, of being more easily acquired than any other: -likewise, that an English newspaper is regularly published at -Buenos Ayres, and also at the city and port of Rosario, and that -there is an influential English Bank and other institutions.</p> - -<p class='c000'>10. That the staple productions of the country are such as at all -times to command the markets of the world, the principal exports -being tallow, hides, and wool, while, during the past year, a trade in -preserved meat has been opened up which seems to promise, if sufficient -attention be given to establish a scientific process of curing, to -assume proportions as sudden and profitable as those of the newly-developed -petroleum trade of North America; that there is also a -mining district in the interior provinces on the slope of the Andes, -which appears, from the operations thus far conducted, to be one of -the richest silver regions yet discovered.</p> - -<p class='c000'>11. That the country is being opened up in all directions by -English Railway enterprises, one of which, the Rosario and Cordova -Line, will be 247 miles in length, and is considered to be ultimately -destined to cross the entire country to Chili, and thus to form a highway -for the traffic between the Atlantic and the Pacific.</p> - -<p class='c000'>12. That the acquisition of land is easy and its tenure secure, and -that additional and extraordinary facilities for settlement are in course -<span class='pageno' id='Page_266'>266</span>of introduction by the circumstance of about a million of acres on the -sides of their line having been ceded to the Rosario and Cordova -(Central Argentine) Railway Company, and of a grant of 10,400 -square miles in the fertile province of Cordova having been made to -Mr. Etchegaray, which is to be transferred to a London Company.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Finally, it is to be observed, that the debt of the country, foreign -and internal, the interest on which is paid with unfailing punctuality, -is comparatively small; that it is gradually in course of extinction, -and that the six per cent. bonds in the London market range between -90 and 100; that there are no direct taxes; and that the commerce -of the country is increasing with such rapidity, that in the Board of -Trade Returns of British exports for the past year (1864), it figures -for £1,758,058, and stands higher in the list than Chili or Peru, and, -as regards European countries, higher than Prussia, Sweden and -Norway, Denmark, and many others with which we have an important -traffic.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The present population of the Argentine Republic is but about -2,000,000, and immigration may be said to be its only want. This -is felt and acknowledged by all classes, and every arrival is therefore -warmly welcomed. The tide thither is gradually increasing, and -persons best acquainted with the country express a conviction that -the growth of Buenos Ayres, which at present is a fine city, with -about 200,000 inhabitants, will during the next twenty years rival -that which has been witnessed at New York during the like period -in the past. In several cases persons of moderate capital have emigrated -from Australia and New Zealand to the Argentine Republic, -owing to the advantages of its greater proximity to England, and its -superior facilities for the acquisition of land.</p> - -<p class='c000'>By far the greater portion of the country consists of rich alluvial -plains, constituting what are called the Pampas. The climate is -subject to a great difference of temperature in winter and summer, -but the changes are gradual and regular. The winter is about as -cold as the English November, with white frosts, and ice at sunrise. -“Taken as a whole, the Pampas may be said to enjoy as beautiful -and as salubrious an atmosphere as the most healthy parts of Greece -and Italy, and without being subject to malaria.”<a id='r14' /><a href='#f14' class='c010'><sup>[14]</sup></a></p> - -<p class='c000'>The country is universally celebrated for the abundance of its -cattle, horses, sheep, goats, asses, mules, and swine. The number -of cattle fifteen years ago was estimated at 12,000,000, and the -horses, mules, and asses at more than 4,000,000, and they are supposed -since that period to have largely increased.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The salubrity of the climate seems especially beneficial to immigrants -from this country, its influence being singularly restorative -wherever there is any tendency to bronchial or pulmonary affections. -In some districts, such as that of the beautiful city and province of -Cordova, these disorders appear to be almost unknown, and as on -the completion of the Central Argentine Railway it will be possible -<span class='pageno' id='Page_267'>267</span>to reach the city of Cordova from London in little more than a -month, that place may probably become a sanitarium for Europeans -in a majority of the most important cases where change of climate -is desirable.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'><span class='sc'>Protection of Immigrants.</span></h3> - -<p class='c024'><em>An influential Commission, of which</em> <span class='sc'>Senor Don M. J. Azcuenaga</span> <em>is -President, is formed at Buenos Ayres to assist Immigrants, by whom -the following Notice is issued. Similar care is exercised at the Port -of Rosario</em>:—</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='sc'>Notice.—The Committee of Immigration to Immigrants arriving at the Port of Buenos Ayres.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>This Committee gives notice to Immigrants who arrive at this port -that whaleboats have been engaged by the same to bring them on shore -and that a commodious “Asylum” is prepared for them, where they will -find lodging and food during the first eight days after their arrival, all -gratis; and that in case any sick persons should be amongst them, they -will be sent to the hospitals of this city, where they will be attended with -the utmost care, likewise gratis; and finally, that this Commission will -undertake to procure suitable employment for them, as well in town as in -the camp, without any charge.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The present notice is given as a precaution that the Immigrants may -not be imposed upon by individuals who go on board with whaleboats, -offering to take them on shore, because, besides that those individuals -make them pay for landing them, they take them to taverns where they -are obliged to spend their money, and, having no means to pay with, they -lose their luggage.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Immigrants are therefore advised in their own interest to disembark -in the whaleboats sent by the Committee, and to go direct to the -“Asylum,” situated in the street Corrientes, No. 8, where they will have -nothing to pay.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in24'>By order of the Commission,</div> - <div class='line'>Buenos Ayres, Nov. 1, 1864. <span class='sc'>George P. E. Tornquist</span>,</div> - <div class='line in48'>Secretary.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The following is a list of the classes of Immigrants most required -in Buenos Ayres:—</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='67%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <th class='c018'><span class='sc'>Occupation.</span></th> - <th class='c018' colspan='7'>Monthly Wages with Board.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Farmers</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>£3</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Gardeners</td> - <td class='c017'>£3</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c017'>4</td> - <td class='c017'>10</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Farm Servants</td> - <td class='c017'>£2</td> - <td class='c017'>5</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c017'>3</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>House Servants, Men</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>2</td> - <td class='c017'>5</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>House Servants, Women</td> - <td class='c017'>£2</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c017'>3</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Cooks, Men</td> - <td class='c017'>3</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c017'>3</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Cooks, Women</td> - <td class='c017'>2</td> - <td class='c017'>5</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c017'>3</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Boys from 10 to 15 years</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c017'>0</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c017'>1</td> - <td class='c017'>5</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Sempstresses</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>2</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Milliners</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>2</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Dressmakers</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>2</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Laundresses</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c017'>2</td> - <td class='c017'>16</td> - <td class='c007'>0</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='77%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -<col width='4%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr><td class='c025' colspan='6'><span class='pageno' id='Page_268'>268</span></td></tr> - <tr> - <th class='c006'></th> - <th class='c018' colspan='5'>Daily Wages without Board.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Bricklayers</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>6s.</td> - <td class='c026'>0d.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Joiners</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>6</td> - <td class='c026'>6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Blacksmiths</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>6</td> - <td class='c026'>6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Shoemakers</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>7</td> - <td class='c026'>6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Tailors</td> - <td class='c018'>6s.</td> - <td class='c018'>0d.</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c006'>9</td> - <td class='c026'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Labourers</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>4</td> - <td class='c026'>6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Railway labourers</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>6</td> - <td class='c026'>0</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Miners</td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c006'>—</td> - <td class='c026'>—</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Note</span>.—<em>Higher Wages may be calculated upon in the interior Provinces, -and Artisans of superior merit will always obtain more than is -quoted.</em></p> - -<h4 class='c027'><span class='sc'>Observations.</span></h4> - -<p class='c016'>In the rural establishments merely, situated in the suburbs of the -capital, thousands of families may engage themselves immediately.</p> - -<p class='c000'>With respect to those Immigrants who may come to establish -themselves in the flourishing Colonies of Santa Fé, Baradero, San -Jose, or others actually forming in various parts of the Republic, -we do not hesitate to say that, owing to the fertility of the land, -they will rapidly acquire a modest fortune.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In summer, Farm Labourers get 6s. to 7s. 6d. per day.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The scarcity of Domestic Servants is notorious—a preference being -given to Women.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Sempstresses, Milliners, Dressmakers, and Laundresses, however -numerous the arrivals, are certain of employment.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Artisans of all descriptions, and Immigrants, even though of no -fixed calling, will get employment to their satisfaction, immediately -on landing.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The Railways now employ a large staff, but some thousands of -labourers are required for the earthworks that are being pushed forward -with the greatest activity.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Immigrants—above all, those with a knowledge of Minerals—will -find very lucrative employment in the rich and numerous Mines -of San Juan, Mendoza, La Rioja, Catamarca, Jujuy, Cordova, and -Salta, which are now being worked with the most satisfactory -results.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A fortnightly journal, called <cite>The Brazil and River Plate Mail</cite>, is -published in London by <span class='sc'>Bates, Hendy & Co</span>., 4, Old Jewry, E.C.</p> - -<h3 class='c015'>STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE RIVER PLATE.</h3> - -<p class='c016'>I have been disappointed in getting a statement of the up-river -traffic in passengers and merchandise, both of which have assumed -very large dimensions; but the following list of steam agents at -Buenos Ayres, and the steamers employed, will give some idea of -what is doing in this way, as well as the increase that may be looked -for when the war in Paraguay is over:—</p> - -<p class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_269'>269</span><em>Matti and Piera</em> (the leading agents, with a large fleet of steamers.)—The -steamer Rio Negro, weekly, for Salto and ports; the steamers -Uruguay, for Rosario, Paraná, and Santa Fé, from the Railway -Station, Retiro; the steamer Rio Uruguay, for Monte Video; -the steamer Rio Negro, for Monte Video; the steamer Lujan, for -Gualeguay, Rosario, Paraná, and Santa Fé, from the Railway -Station, Retiro. These steamers mostly make weekly passages; -the communication with Monte Video is more frequent.</p> - -<p class='c014'><em>Henry Dowse</em> (one of the oldest steam agents in Buenos Ayres).—The -steamer James T. Brady, for Monte Video; the steamer -Beauly, for Colonia; national steamer Estrella, from the Tigre, -for Rosario, Paraná, Santa Fé, and intermediate ports.</p> - -<p class='c014'><em>Alvarez and Risso</em>.—For Monte Video, the steamer Villa del Salto, -on Mondays, returning early on Thursday mornings; the steamer -Rio de la Plata, on Wednesdays, returning early on Saturday -mornings. For Salto and ports, the steamer Villa del Salto, on -Thursdays, returning early on Monday mornings; for Salto and -ports, the steamer Rio de la Plata, on Saturdays, returning early -on Wednesday mornings; for Salto and ports, the steamer Salto, -twice a month, taking passengers, cargo, and parcels, for all intermediate -ports. For Corrientes and Itapiru, the Oriental steamer -Tigre, taking passengers, cargo, and parcels; for Bahia Blanca -and Patagones, the National steamer Patagones, once a month, -taking cargo, passengers, and parcels.</p> - -<p class='c014'><em>The Steam Company for the Rivers</em> run three screw-steamers, the -Taraguay, the Goya, and the Guarani, chiefly with cargo, for -Corrientes and Curupaity.</p> - -<p class='c014'><em>G. T. Paez</em> runs steamers to Gualeguay, to Rosario, and intermediate -ports, amongst them the Castor, Pollox (English); -national steamers Lucia and Elena, and the Italian steamer -Venezia.</p> - -<p class='c014'><em>Rubio and Foley</em> despatch the British steamer Iaguarete for -Corrientes, Itapiru, Curupaity, and ports, and the National -steamer Victoria, for La Victoria and Zarate.</p> - -<p class='c014'><em>The South American Steamboat Company</em> despatch steamers for -Humaita, Curupaity, Corrientes, and ports. They also provide -steam communication to Monte Video, with cargo and passengers.</p> - -<p class='c000'>At Monte Video there are several steam companies and agencies -connected with Buenos Ayres. Monte Video steamers run chiefly -up the Uruguay; others going up the Paraná call at Monte Video, -and between Monte Video and Buenos Ayres there are now -steamers running daily to and from both ports, one or two being -powerful American river boats, with splendid accommodation for -passengers.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_270'>270</span>The following particulars of up-river distances may be interesting:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <th class='c018'></th> - <th class='c022'> </th> - <th class='c018'> </th> - <th class='c022'> </th> - <th class='c018' colspan='2'>Miles.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>From</td> - <td class='c022'>Monte Video</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>106</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Martin Garcia</td> - <td class='c017'>33</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Martin Garcia</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Higueritas</td> - <td class='c017'>30</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'>169</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Higueritas</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Fray Bentos</td> - <td class='c017'>60</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Fray Bentos</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Gualeguaychu</td> - <td class='c017'>27</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Gualeguaychu</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Concepcion del Uruguay</td> - <td class='c017'>33</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Concepcion del Uruguay</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Paysandú</td> - <td class='c017'>15</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Paysandú</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Concordia</td> - <td class='c017'>90</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Concordia</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Salto</td> - <td class='c017'>3</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'>228</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>San Fernando</td> - <td class='c017'>18</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>San Fernando</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Las Palmas</td> - <td class='c017'>12</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Las Palmas</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Zarate</td> - <td class='c017'>36</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Zarate</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>San Pedro</td> - <td class='c017'>55</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>San Pedro</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Obligado</td> - <td class='c017'>6</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Obligado</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Los Hermanos</td> - <td class='c017'>12</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Los Hermanos</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>San Nicolas</td> - <td class='c017'>32</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>San Nicolas</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>San Piedras</td> - <td class='c017'>8</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>San Piedras</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Rosario</td> - <td class='c017'>31</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Rosario</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>San Lorenzo</td> - <td class='c017'>18</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>San Lorenzo</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Diamante</td> - <td class='c017'>54</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Diamante</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Santa Fé</td> - <td class='c017'>36</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Santa Fé</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Paraná</td> - <td class='c017'>10</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Paraná</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>La Paz</td> - <td class='c017'>102</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>La Paz</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Esquinao</td> - <td class='c017'>72</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Esquinao</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Goya</td> - <td class='c017'>73</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Goya</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Bella Vista</td> - <td class='c017'>53</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>Bella Vista</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Corrientes</td> - <td class='c017'>87</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'>The Branch Line</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Gualeguay</td> - <td class='c017'>20</td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c018'> </td> - <td class='c022'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'>735</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>From</td> - <td class='c022'>Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Bahia Blanca and Patagones</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'>840</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c018'>From</td> - <td class='c022'>Colonia</td> - <td class='c018'>to</td> - <td class='c022'>Cape St. Maria</td> - <td class='c017'> </td> - <td class='c007'>200</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<h3 class='c015'>SHIPPING MOVEMENTS.</h3> - -<p class='c024'><span class='fss'>MOVEMENT OF SHIPPING (SAILING AND STEAM) TO AND FROM BRAZIL AND -THE RIVER PLATE DURING THE YEAR 1867, TAKEN FROM THE BOARD -OF TRADE RETURNS</span>:—</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> - <tr> - <th class='c006'></th> - <th class='c018'><span class='sc'>Inwards.</span></th> - <th class='c018'><span class='sc'>Ships.</span></th> - <th class='c019'><span class='sc'>Tonnage.</span></th> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Brazil</td> - <td class='c017'>477</td> - <td class='c007'>188,643</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>English</td> - <td class='c006'>{Monte Video</td> - <td class='c017'>73</td> - <td class='c007'>23,067</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>44</td> - <td class='c007'>19,237</td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_271'>271</span> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Brazil</td> - <td class='c017'>139</td> - <td class='c007'>29,174</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Foreign</td> - <td class='c006'>{Monte Video</td> - <td class='c017'>39</td> - <td class='c007'>10,153</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>32</td> - <td class='c007'>8,968</td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c025' colspan='4'>Total English and Foreign:—</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>Brazil</td> - <td class='c017'>616</td> - <td class='c007'>275,562</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>Monte Video</td> - <td class='c017'>112</td> - <td class='c007'>123,597</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>76</td> - <td class='c007'>64,348</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c017'><hr class='division' /></td> - <td class='c007'> </td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <th class='c006'></th> - <th class='c018'><span class='sc'>Outwards.</span></th> - <th class='c017'> </th> - <th class='c007'> </th> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Brazil</td> - <td class='c017'>493</td> - <td class='c007'>195,487</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>English</td> - <td class='c006'>{Monte Video</td> - <td class='c017'>163</td> - <td class='c007'>79,453</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>142</td> - <td class='c007'>46,462</td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Brazil</td> - <td class='c017'>291</td> - <td class='c007'>80,082</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'>Foreign</td> - <td class='c006'>{Monte Video</td> - <td class='c017'>111</td> - <td class='c007'>44,144</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>{Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>62</td> - <td class='c007'>16,886</td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c025' colspan='4'>Total English and Foreign:—</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>Brazil</td> - <td class='c017'>784</td> - <td class='c007'>275,569</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>Monte Video</td> - <td class='c017'>274</td> - <td class='c007'>124,597</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c006'> </td> - <td class='c006'>Buenos Ayres</td> - <td class='c017'>204</td> - <td class='c007'>64,348</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class='c012' /> - -<div class='footnote' id='f10'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. </span>See "Climate of the Swiss Alps and of the Peruvian Andes compared."</p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f11'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. </span>See "Les Altitudes de l'Amerique Tropical au-dessus le niveau des mars au -point de vue de la constitution medicale."</p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f12'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. </span>See "Syria and the Holy Land."</p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f13'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. </span>There is now weekly communication by steamers between Europe and the -River Plate.</p> -</div> - -<div class='footnote' id='f14'> -<p class='c000'><span class='label'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. </span>"Encyclopædia Britannica."</p> -</div> - -<div class='tnotes'> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h2> -</div> - <ol class='ol_1 c002'> - <li>Made the changes indicated in the <a href='#ERRATA'>ERRATA</a> section. - - </li> - <li>Added opening quotes (“) to each paragraph in the block quotation on p. <a href='#p53'>53</a> - consistent with the practice used elsewhere in this book. - - </li> - <li>Changed gods to goods on p. <a href='#p192'>192</a>. - - </li> - <li>Changed coveying to conveying on p. <a href='#p205'>205</a>. - - </li> - <li>Parana is used more frequently than Paraná. Also depôt more frequently than depot. In - both cases, neither form was changed to the other due to both being frequently used. - - </li> - <li>Silently corrected typographical errors. - - </li> - <li>Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed. - </li> - </ol> - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Brazil and the river Plate in 1868, by -William Hadfield - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE IN 1868 *** - -***** This file should be named 52965-h.htm or 52965-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/9/6/52965/ - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, Donald Cummings, Adrian -Mastronardi and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team -at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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