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} - .nf-center { text-align: center; } - .nf-center-c1 { text-align: left; margin: 1em 0; } - .c000 { margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c001 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 4em; } - .c002 { margin-top: 2em; } - .c003 { margin-top: 1em; } - .c004 { page-break-before:auto; margin-top: 4em; } - .c005 { margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c006 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 2em; } - .c007 { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c008 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; text-indent: -1em; - padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em; } - .c009 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; padding-right: 1em; } - .c010 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; } - .c011 { margin-top: 1em; font-size: 90%; } - .c012 { margin-top: 4em; } - .c013 { page-break-before: auto; margin-top: 2em; } - .c014 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; padding-right: 1em; } - .c015 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; } - div.tnotes { padding-left:1em;padding-right:1em;background-color:#E3E4FA; - border:1px solid silver; margin:2em 10% 0 10%; } - .covernote { visibility: hidden; display: none; } - div.tnotes p { text-align:left; } - @media handheld { .covernote { visibility: visible; display: block;} } - .ph2 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; - } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Barbers' Manual (Part 1), Text Book on -Taxidermy (Part 2), by T. J. McConnaughay - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Barbers' Manual (Part 1), Text Book on Taxidermy (Part 2) - -Author: T. J. McConnaughay - -Release Date: August 19, 2016 [EBook #52850] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BARBER'S MANUAL, TEXT BOOK TAXIDERMY *** - - - - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='tnotes covernote'> - -<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber's Note:</strong></p> - -<p class='c000'>The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> - -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i002.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><span class='sc'>T. J. McConnaughay.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - <h1 class='c001'><span class='large'>PART FIRST</span><br /> Barbers' Manual<br /> <span class='large'>PART SECOND</span><br /> Text Book on Taxidermy</h1> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='xlarge'>By T. J. McConnaughay</span></div> - <div class='c003'><span class='xlarge'>PRICE, $1.25</span></div> - <div class='c003'>Copyrighted and all rights reserved by author.</div> - <div>Chicago, Ill., 1898.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span> - <h2 class='c004'>Preface.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>By way of explaining the dual character -of this little book, we here indulge -a few brief introductory remarks.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Part First is designed simply as a -manual of instruction for barbers, and -we hope it will, in a valuable measure, -supply a long felt need. It will prove -especially beneficial to the younger and -less experienced members of our craft.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The best artisans and artists admit -they owe much to the accumulated -knowledge and experience of both their -predecessors and their contemporaries. -Indeed, to assert any claim to advanced -knowledge and skill, without due acknowledgements -for the help received -from others would savor of an inexcusable -egotism. The man who professes -<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>to be a self-made man is always -notorious for worshiping his maker.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We should, of course, always put -our own impress upon all our work. -Our observations on the methods of -others should supplement but not supplant -our own originality and our own -reason. A noted artist when asked -how he mixed his paints to achieve such -wonderful results, replied: “I mix -them with brains.”</p> - -<p class='c000'>So must we use our own brains as -well as the brains of others, if we would -succeed in this day of rapid improvements -and sharp competition.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The information given in this book -is not guess work, but the result of -long years of study and practice. -Thirty-one years have I conducted a -shop of my own. During these years -every recipe here given has been -thoroughly tested. We know they are -all good.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Part Second is devoted to taxidermy, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>which for twenty-three years I have -connected with my other shop work. -I have preserved and sold hundreds of -specimens, and this work has proven a -source of much pleasure and profit, -enabling me to turn many otherwise -idle moments into money.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On this line I have not confined myself -to taxidermic work alone, but have -also connected the tanning of hides -with the hair on, which I have manufactured -into mats, rugs, etc.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Hence this little book, under a twofold -title, practically includes three -trades.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We offer it as a money saving and -money making investment. The recipes -and other information contained -herein will enable any barber to make -all his own preparations, and to manufacture -them for sale. He may -also connect taxidermy and tanning if -it suit his pleasure and business.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span> - <h2 class='c004'>Historic Sketch.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>The word barber is derived from the -Latin word “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">barba</span>,” which means -beard, and hence is applied to one -whose occupation is to shave and trim -beards and cut hair. The barber's craft -is a very ancient one. The practice of -shaving was common among the ancient -Egyptians, Greeks and Romans; and -was even mentioned by the prophet -Ezekiel, chapter v, 1st verse. Among -the ancient Israelites the removal of the -beard by shaving or plucking was a -sign of mourning. It would seem that -the origin of our trade was prehistoric.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In early times barbering was conjoined -with surgery, and the barber -also served the public in the capacity -of surgeon. In France the barber-chirurgeons, -or barber-surgeons, were -<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>separated from the <span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">perruquiers</span>, or -wig-makers, and were incorporated as -a distinct body in the latter part of the -17th century. In England barbers -were incorporated with special privileges -in 1461, and were afterwards -united to the society of surgeons, but -were confined to the minor operations -of blood letting and drawing teeth. In -1745 an act was passed, the preamble -of which declared the trade of the barber -and the profession of surgery are -foreign to and independent of each -other.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This act practically divorced surgery -from the barber's chair. However, -quite recently the surgeons of the -Swedish navy were also barbers for the -crew. In former times, not far remote, -it was customary to keep a lute -or a violin for the entertainment of -patrons, which made the shop a favorite -resort for idle persons. In China -and some other oriental countries, barbers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>not only shave the face, but they -also shave the whole or a part of the -head.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BARBER'S SIGN.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Though barbering is now entirely -separated from surgery, yet a monument -of their former union may be -still seen in the striped pole and basin -so often projecting from the front of -barber shops.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The fillet, or spiral strip around the -pole symbolizes the winding of a ribbon -round the arm previous to letting -blood, and its red color symbolizes the -blood. The basin, yet sometimes seen -at the base, represents a vessel prepared -to catch the blood.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Barber's poles in this country are -tri-colored. The white symbolizes the -arm, the red represents the shed blood, -while Americans have added the blue -to complete our national colors.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span> - <h2 class='c004'>Recipes, Formulas, Etc.</h2> -</div> - -<h3 class='c006'>GERMAN HAIR DYE.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>The process here given comprehends -a double formula, and to insure satisfactory -results, the directions subjoined -should be carefully followed.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>No. 1.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Nitrate of Silver</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>drachms</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Stronger Water of Ammonia</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled or Rain Water</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>No 2.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Pyrogallic Acid</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>drachms</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled or Rain Water</td> - <td class='c009'>6 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—Formula No. 1, and -formula No. 2, should each be put up -in a separate bottle.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In compounding, each of the first two -ingredients should be combined and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>reduced to a solution and the water -then added.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Before using these preparations the -beard or hair should first be thoroughly -washed and dried.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Then apply No. 1 with the fingers, -and when partly dried apply No. 2 -with a tooth brush and a comb, being -careful to get the dye down to the skin. -If convenient let the party go out into -the open air for an hour. Otherwise -the hair should be thoroughly dried -with a fan, and washed with soap and -soft water. This formula was brought -from Germany by a St. Louis barber -and sold to the author in 1869. Properly -put up it is not only first-class, but -I have never found any other preparation -equal to it.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BROWN HAIR DYE.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Take four pounds of green walnut -hulls. Put them in 1½ gallons soft -water and boil down to three pints. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>Strain off through cloth until clear of -sediment. To one quart of this add one -quart of alcohol, and 3 ounces of glycerine. -Use as other restorers, once a -day until the desired shade is obtained. -The hulls should be gathered in August.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>QUININE HAIR TONIC AND SEA FOAM.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>The strong point in favor of this -preparation as a sea-foam is that it acts -at the same time as a tonic for the hair.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>FORMULA.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Glycerine</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Tincture of Cantharides</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Aqua Ammonia</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Sulphate of Quinine</td> - <td class='c009'>30 </td> - <td class='c010'>grains</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil of Cloves</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>drachm</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Rock salt (or table salt)</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled or rain water</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—When using as a sea-foam, -wet the hair and rub briskly with -finger ends until the foam has disappeared. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>Then take a towel and rub -partly dry.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When using as a dandruff cure, sea-foam -twice a week, dampen the hair -twice a day for two weeks, after -which use once a week as a sea-foam. -This will keep the scalp in fine condition.</p> - -<p class='c000'>After you have tried it you will use -no other.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>CREAM FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND FACE.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>This recipe was given me by a druggist -whom I have known for years. Its -reliable and competent source is a sufficient -guarantee:</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>FORMULA.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Quince seed</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled extract witch hazel</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Glycerine</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Powdered Boracic Acid</td> - <td class='c009'>160 </td> - <td class='c010'>grains</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Carbolic Acid</td> - <td class='c009'>32 </td> - <td class='c010'>drops</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Perfume to suit.</td> - <td class='c009'> </td> - <td class='c010'> </td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span><span class='sc'>Directions for Making.</span>—First put -quince seed in witch hazel and let stand -twenty-four hours. Then strain through -cheese cloth and add the other ingredients. -I know this to be good for the -face after shaving.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>PYTHIAN CREAM.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>This is another preparation for the -face and hands.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>FORMULA.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Gum Tragacanth (in flake)</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Glycerine</td> - <td class='c009'>4 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled or rain water</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>gallon</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions for Making.</span>—Put gum -tragacanth in water and let stand till -thoroughly dissolved, and strain through -a cheese cloth. Then add the glycerine -and a sufficient amount of Pythian bouquet -to perfume. Color pink with -powdered carmine. It should be about -the consistency of cream. If too thick -<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>add more water. There should be a -half-gallon water to the four ounces of -glycerine when finished.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BAY CREAM.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>The only difference between this and -Pythian Cream is in the perfume. -Some like the bay rum better.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—Use the formula of the -preceding and then add perfume with -the genuine oil of bay.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>COLD CREAM.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>The only difference between this and -the two preceding creams is that instead -of perfume a compound of alcohol and -menthol is used.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—Use the same body as -for Pythian Cream, and then add alcohol -and menthol as follows:</p> - -<p class='c000'>Put 6 drachms of menthol crystals -into an ounce of alcohol. When the -menthol is thoroughly dissolved add -<span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>this combination to ½ gallon of the -cream. The presence of the menthol -gives this preparation a very pleasant -cooling effect. Hence it is well named. -This cream may, of course, be perfumed -if desirable.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Instead of these face creams, some -customers will prefer the pure bay rum, -while perhaps many will prefer witch -hazel. These can, of course, be obtained -from barber supply houses or -from drug stores; the witch hazel may -be improved by adding to it a good -cologne. Try two parts witch hazel to -one part cologne.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BAY RUM.</h3> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>No. 1.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Bay Oil</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil of Pimento</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>pints</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Water</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>pints</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>No. 2.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Magnesium</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil of Bay</td> - <td class='c009'>¼</td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Mash them well together and put -them in a filter and pour in two quarts -of water. Let it filter slowly, and then -add 2 quarts Alcohol.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>IMITATION OF BAY RUM.</h3> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>No. 3.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil of Bay</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>drachms</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil Pimento</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>drachm</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Water</td> - <td class='c009'>1½</td> - <td class='c010'>quarts</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Acetic Ether</td> - <td class='c009'>1½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>2 </td> - <td class='c010'>quarts</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Mix and let stand 3 days, then filter.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>CAMPHOR ICE.</h3> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil of Sweet Almonds</td> - <td class='c009'>2½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>White Wax</td> - <td class='c009'>2½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Spermaceti</td> - <td class='c009'>3½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Gum Camphor</td> - <td class='c009'>¾</td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Mix together, melt and pour off in -small salve boxes.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span> - <h3 class='c006'>MENTHOL SALVE.</h3> -</div> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Mutton Tallow</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Lard</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Menthol (in crystals)</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>drachms</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Melt together and pour off in salve -boxes.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Both the Camphor Ice and the Menthol -salve are good for tender faces.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>SILVER GLOSS SHAMPOO.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>This is an economic and very satisfactory -preparation.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>FORMULA.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>White Castile Soap (the very best)</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Refined Carbonate of Potash</td> - <td class='c009'>¾</td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled or rain water</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Table Salt</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Refined Carbonate of Potash is also -called Pure Salts of Tartar. I have -found the English brands preferable.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—Shave the soap fine and -put into the water (as per above formula), -which should be contained in a -porcelain vessel.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Let it boil until soap is thoroughly -dissolved and strain off into another -vessel, and then add the pure salts of -tartar while still hot. Add the salt and -enough more boiling water to replace -the amount which has boiled away, and -continue to stir until it becomes only -luke warm; then add a few drops of the -oil of cloves (or some other perfume), if -desirable. Finally pour off in small -jelly jars and set away for use. 1 gallon -made in this way will make 5 gallons of -ordinary shampoo, by simply adding 4 -gallons more of water. This quantity -should not cost over fifty cents. A -pound of the refined carbonate of potash -costs twenty cents, and a pound of -castile soap only fifteen cents, and the -perfume will cost less than the remainder -of 50 cents.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>One teaspoonful is enough to clean -any ordinary suit of hair.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In cleaning ladies' hair it is well to -add a little ethylic ether, commonly -called sulphuric ether. Never use hard -water. If necessary save up enough -rain water. I give elsewhere directions -for making shampooing outfit, which -may also be conveniently used for -shower baths in shops and houses where -there is no connection with water works. -Water to be used for shampooing should -always be warm.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>EGG SHAMPOO.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>This favorite preparation should be -used immediately after mixing.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Take 1 fresh egg, 1 teaspoonful of -silver gloss shampoo, and ¼ teaspoonful -of powdered borax. Mix together with -an egg beater, and then use as other -shampoos.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span> - <h3 class='c006'>A CHEAP SEA FOAM.</h3> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Take 2 ounces of the silver gloss -shampoo, 2 ounces alcohol, 1 ounce -glycerine and 1 pint water; shake well -together and perfume to suit your -fancy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The shampoo or sea-foam can be -colored a nice yellow by making a tea -of saffron and water, adding enough -after straining it to get the desired -color. Powdered carmine can also be -used to color a red or pink color.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BRILLIANTINE.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Take 1 ounce of good glycerine, ¼ -ounce of rose geranium and 1 ounce -water. Mix. This preparation is a good -one, and can be made very cheap by -using a less amount of the perfume. -It never separates, and is good as long -as there is a drop of it left.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>ENGRAVING FLUIDS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>We here give a formula for making -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>an etching fluid, to be used in marking -razors, shears and other steel tools.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>FORMULA.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Bluestone</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Table Salt</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Water</td> - <td class='c009'>6 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—Cover blade or plate -with soap or varnish, and then with -etching needle or common pencil write -the name or letters desired, being careful -to score or scratch through to the -metal. Then fill the traced lines with -the fluid and let it remain five minutes. -The fluid will corrode the metal in the -lines thus laid bare. Therefore when -the covering and acid are washed off -the lettering will remain.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Be careful to wash promptly and dry -thoroughly.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BLACK HEADS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>What are known as black heads are -generally found in the skin of people -<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>who are addicted to the use of much -hog meat. Such people are also as a -rule, rather careless, to say the least, -about bathing their faces. A hint to -the wise will be sufficient. Let them -not be afraid a rough towel will scratch -them. I give below a recipe highly -recommended.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>FORMULA.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>4 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Boracic Acid</td> - <td class='c009'>2 </td> - <td class='c010'>drachms</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Distilled or rain water</td> - <td class='c009'>1½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Apply this three times per day after -first having thoroughly washed the face -and rubbing dry with a coarse towel. -Considerable benefit will, at least, be -derived from a faithful application of -the above.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>HAIR BLEACHING.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>First clean the hair with the Silver -Gloss shampoo, and when dry apply -peroxide of hydrogen until damp. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>When dry, again repeat the application, -and continue to repeat it until nearly as -light as desired.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The hair will continue to bleach a -little lighter for about three days, and -hence it is necessary to discontinue the -application when the hair is a shade -darker than desired.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>WHITENING FOR THE FACE.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Put 1 ounce of the oxide of zinc into -a plate and pour over it 3 ounces of -soft water. Mash zinc with a spoon -until it is all dissolved. Pour the solution -into a pint bottle and fill up with -witch hazel. When the weather is cold, -pure soft water may be used instead of -the witch hazel; but the preparation -would sour in warm weather. Apply -with a soft cloth.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>BARBERS' ITCH.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Fear of this disease causes many men -to shave themselves, and this class -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>would otherwise be among the very -best customers.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When these men observe how careless -the average barber is with his -towels, mugs, tools, etc., they become -disgusted and purchase a shaving outfit -and quit the barbers' chair, except when -they want a hair-cut.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I believe every barber should know -how to treat this disease. Hence I will -make a few suggestions as to its causation -and treatment.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Scabies, or itch, in its various forms -is a disease caused by the irritation produced -from the presence in the skin of -what is called the itch mite and the ova -of the same. The cure involves the destruction -of these parasites. Get a -doctor, if possible, to prescribe; if no -doctor can be got who understands it, I -would try the following: An ointment -made from the flour of sulphur and -lard or sulphur and vaseline, is about -the best remedy known. Rub in well -<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>at night and wash off in morning. Or -take citron ointment 1 ounce and mutton -tallow 1 ounce. Melt together and -stir till cool. This I have found one of -the best salves for all skin diseases I -have ever tried. Apply twice a day, but -use with care since it contains mercury.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>HAIR OILS AND HAIR DRESSINGS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>While oiling the hair is a thing of -the past, we might indulge a few remarks -as a matter of history. Thirty -years ago almost every customer used -oil on his hair, and every barber was -expected to know how to mix his own -oils. A favorite preparation was made -as follows: 1 pint of alcohol and 1½ -pints of castor-oil were shaken together, -and then perfumed with citronella -or bergamot.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another favorite was made of raccoon -oil and lard mixed half and half, -and perfumed with the oil of cloves.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>Some used the coon oil straight; -others used the oil of birds, geese, -chickens or ducks, etc. Bear oil was -considered a great oil for the hair as -well as for many other purposes. My -own favorite among all the home made -preparations was made from beef -marrow. The marrow was tried out -and a little salt was added. The oil -was then perfumed with bergamot.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>POMADES.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>In selecting material for pomade, -have a butcher get you some fine leaf -lard and some of the finest suet, which -should be taken from young animals. -Render out separately in porcelain vessels -and strain off.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='sc'>Directions.</span>—Take lard 1 pound, tallow -1 pound; mix them and heat gently, -and cook for one hour over a slow fire; -remove and let stand a few minutes to -settle; now pour off carefully. When -almost cold add some suitable perfume, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>say oil of bergamot 4 drachms, oil of -lemon 3 drachms, oil of cassia 2 -drachms, oil of nutmeg 75 drops. Mix -thoroughly with the pomade and pour -into small jars.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>STICK POMADES.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Take of the prepared tallow 1 pound, -pure, clean bees wax 3 ounces, gum -benzoin, in a coarse powder, 1¼ drachms. -Melt together with a slow heat, mixing -all the while. When partly cooled add -some suitable perfume. Pour it off in -moulds and when cold take out and -wrap in tin foil, then put on a nice -label as outer covering.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To make the above into a coloring -pomade, take 3 pounds of the prepared -lard and tallow, before being perfumed; -add to it 2 pounds of fresh walnut hulls, -cut up fine; put into a porcelain vessel -and heat gently for four hours. Take -off and strain, and proceed as in making -the black pomade. This will gradually -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>color the hair or beard to a nice brown -by being used daily until the desired -shade is obtained.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>HOW TO STOP BLOOD.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Every barber should have at hand a -preparation for stopping blood. The -best of barbers are liable to bring blood -from rough or tender faces. An astringent -pencil, which is very good -and very handy, may be obtained from -the barber supply houses in the cities -at a cost of only 10 cents each. However, -I prefer Monsell's Powdered Iron -which may be obtained from any drug -store. The only objection to it is, it is -liable to discolor the skin. However, -by being careful to put on only a small -amount, it may easily be washed off -when the blood has ceased to ooze.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If a small bump has been cut off or -a shallow cut made in the smooth skin, -it will generally suffice to cover it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>with a thick lather and let it remain until -the shaving is completed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Alum is also used but is too slow in -its action.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>HAIR RESTORERS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>I could give a formula that would -make the hair fall out, but thus far I -have not been able to find a preparation -that will produce a new growth of hair -on bald heads. As a preventative treatment -I might suggest as follows:</p> - -<p class='c000'>Boil burdock root in soft water until -strong, and then add to one pint of it, a -half pint of alcohol, a teaspoonful of -salt, and 1 ounce of glycerine. This -used once a day will prevent the hair -from falling out. Or make a strong -decoction of black tea or sage and mix -with the alcohol, salt, and glycerine -as above and use as above.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The basis of most hair tonics is the -tincture of cantharides, quinine, ammonia, -camphor, and salt. A solution -<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>of borax in camphor water is used by -some as a stimulant for the scalp. I -have a friend who is experimenting on -a new line with very encouraging prospects -of successfully producing hair on -bald heads. If any party interested -will address me a few months hence, I -may be able to advise them how to reproduce -hair on bald heads.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>GLASS HONES.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>A glass hone is easily made, and no -barber should be without one. Procure -a piece of heavy plate glass and -have a glass cutter cut it into pieces -3×8 inches in dimensions. Take the -gloss off the face and also around the -edges on a grindstone, and then finish -by rubbing the face of the hone with -pumice-stone kept wet with water. -Continue this rubbing until the gloss is -entirely removed and the hone is -smooth. Before honing take a rubber, -such as is used on a water hone, and, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>after wetting hone rub until you have -a sort of lather. Hone on this as you -would on any other hone. You will -find it excellent for smoothing shears -after grinding, or a razor after having -been over honed.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>MUGS, BRUSHES AND SOAPS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>The mug should be large and heavy -and the brush used to make the lather -should also be large and first-class in -every particular. In regard to brushes, -I would suggest that it pays to buy the -very best.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A poor brush that is continually -shedding hairs is very annoying to the -customer, and it hinders the barber. I -prefer the rubber ferruled brush, but -be sure to get the genuine.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In regard to soap I must admit that -I am partial to the J. B. Williams barber -soap. However, there are other -brands that give good satisfaction. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>There are no soaps too good. Hence -get the best.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>FACE POWDERS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>There is nothing much better than -cake magnesia, but it should only be -used to dry the face after shaving. I -have given a liquid whiting which is -much used by ladies. I have often used -it on men to whiten the skin. See -whitening for the face.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>SHOWER BATH AND SHAMPOO CAN.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>Take a common tin bucket which -holds three gallons, have a small tube -one inch long and one quarter of an -inch in diameter put in one side about -one half inch from bottom of bucket.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Then get a rubber hose three feet -long of suitable diameter to fit on to -the tube. At the other extremity of -the hose attach a sprinkler with its tubular -end made to fit the hose.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Connect the hose to bucket and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>sprinkler to hose, and the can is complete.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Lay the sprinkler over the upper -rim of can (or bucket) to keep the -water from flowing out. Fill with soft -warm water; and, when ready to take -the bath or shampoo, hang from ceiling -or set on shelf high enough to allow the -water to flow over the head and body.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Put on the shampoo. Take the -sprinkler and thoroughly wash and -rinse.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Three gallons of water used in this -way is better than a whole bath tub full -used in the ordinary way. This apparatus -of course applies to country places -where they have not the advantage of -water works, or where the water furnished -is hard.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>TOWELS, HAIR CLOTHS, AND FACE CLOTHS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>If you would secure first-class trade, -you must keep a good supply of clean -<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>good looking towels. Nothing is more -disgusting in a shop than a lot of dirty -ragged towels.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The workmen may be first-class, the -tools first-class, etc.; but unless the -towels are in proper condition the better -class of trade will go elsewhere.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I prefer a good moderate sized cotton -towel, except for the wash cloth, where -I prefer a cotton crash towel on the -order of a bath towel.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This crash comes in bolts and may -be cut the desired length; it must, however, -be hemmed. For the bath always -use a good towel but not too large.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The breast cloth made of calico or -gingham, should be full width of goods, -and not less than three and a half feet -long. It should have a half neck opening -at one side made to fit up around -the neck.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The hair cloth may be made of calico, -gingham or bleached sheeting. If -the sheeting is used get the goods wide -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>enough to require no seam, and then -border with a two inch band of red -oiled calico.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>SUGGESTIONS FOR BEGINNERS.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>In the first place, if you have made -up your mind to be a barber, why not -be a good one. There is always room -at the top, and rich reward for him who -has reached the top. Rich reward, -however, is the price of self-exertion. -Do not wait for a tidal wave to waft -you on to success. The minions of -fortune are few and far between. You -must not only work but you must embrace -every opportunity to improve -your qualifications, if you would -achieve success in this age of advanced -knowledge and skill. You should -always be on the alert, and never miss -an opportunity to acquire useful information. -Knowledge is power, and it -behooves you to gain all the knowledge -you can, especially of your own business. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>If necessary pay for it, work for -it, or even beg for it. The possession -of a good fund of practical knowledge -with other necessary qualities of mind -and heart, will enable one to wear good -clothes, make plenty of money and to -have scores of friends; while the lack -of it will make another the digger of -ditches, living in rags and poverty, and -deprived of the more congenial companionship -of the better and nobler elements -of society. Knowledge pays.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Moreover, while you should attend -well to the proper equipment of your -mind, you should not neglect the -proper cultivation of your social character. -Especially should you cultivate -what might be termed a practical business -social tact.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Treat every customer as though your -success depended upon him and him -alone, and always exert your utmost to -do good work. Much depends upon -the barber's ability to shave well. To -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>accomplish the great desideratum of -being able to shave well each one of -the various customers with their varying -qualities of beard, you must diligently -study the temper of your razors -with reference to the peculiar beard of -each customer. Again much depends -upon the lather, the brush, the hone, -the strop, etc. Hence you will please -pardon a few simple primary suggestions -leading up to a good shave. First -you must equip yourself with first-class -tools.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Procure a first-class oil hone.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A large rubber ferruled lather brush.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A large heavy shaving mug.</p> - -<p class='c000'>A half dozen No. 1 razors, 4½ to 4⅝ -wide and ¾ concave.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Your soap and all other materials -and implements should be as good as -you are able to buy.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When you hone your razor on the -oil hone, use good soap and make a -stiff lather which you will spread on the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>hone. Then place the razor on the hone -and draw very lightly from heel to -point so that the edge of the razor -will always be on the front side of the -moving blade. Each stroke across the -hone should be a sloping or sawing -stroke, and at the end of each the razor -should be turned on the back and -pushed up across the end of the hone, -and the other side of the blade laid -flat on the hone. Then draw the razor -back with a curving or angular stroke -to the other end of the hone. Turn -again as before and continue with steady -stroke until you think the blade is -sharp. Wet the thumb nail and try the -edge by drawing it lightly from end to -end. Should the edge feel blunt or -rough make a few more strokes on the -hone and try again, and so on until the -edge is satisfactory. A better way to -test the edge, if you have a smooth soft -hand, is to wet the end of thumb or -fore finger and draw the razor lightly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>over it feeling of the edge. However, -it requires practice to tell with certainty -by either method. Therefore practice -carefully until you become expert.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We will here make a few suggestions -in regard to the different hones -generally used by barbers. The -oil hone, which is supposed to be -petrified hickory, is the one most used, -and is perhaps the best. Second in rank -and general use comes the Swatty hone -which is made from the same material -as the emery wheel, but it is of finer -grade. This is a very fast cutting -hone. Next comes the water hone -which is simply a fine grit stone, and -then comes the glass hone which is but -little used. A few barbers use it to -take off the wire edge of over-honed -razors. Hones should be handled with -great care. In honing the razor should -be run well out to the ends to prevent -hollowing the hone. Should a hone -begin to hollow, work it down with fine -<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>sand paper to a perfect face and smooth -it with the rubber used on the water -hones. I prefer olive oil on an oil -hone if carefully used. Of course lather -may be used on an oil hone the same as -on the Swatty and glass hones. Use -water on the water hone and rub with -the rub stone commonly used until the -surface is covered with a sort of soapy -pasty lather before honing. The glass -hone may be used in the same manner. -Any hone when not in use should be -wrapped up and laid away carefully -after having been washed and thoroughly -cleaned.</p> - -<p class='c000'>You should be provided with a good -shell strop, or a good Russian leather -strop, and also a good canvas strop. -After honing strop the razor lightly on -the leather only. The canvas should -not be used except when the razor has -become smooth. When you have a -customer in the chair, first put a clean -towel on him and proceed to make the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>lather using warm soft water. Lather -the face and scour the beard, and then -lather again with a good heavy lather. -Proceed to shave, drawing the razor -with a sawing stroke, and make the -strokes as long as practicable. Hold -the skin tight to throw out the beard, -and go over the face the first time as -quickly as possible. Then wash the -soap from the face, and go over it a -second time, keeping the skin somewhat -stretched, and wet with soft water. -When finished, press a hot towel to the -face and then use one of the face creams -given in this book.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Next powder the face, and curl and -perfume the mustache. If you think -his hair needs trimming tell him so, -and if he has it done, do your very -best, even taking pains to cut the hair -out of his ears. Shave his neck. The -most important point is to get a good -edge on the hair.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If he takes a shampoo, first give the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>scalp a good brushing to loosen the -dandruff, and then use Silver Gloss -Shampoo, giving him to understand -that you have it for sale for family -use. Rinse hair with warm soft water, -and dry with a fine bath towel, and then -ask him if you shall apply some of the -hair tonic which will cost him only ten -cents extra.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Comb his hair in the latest style, -and if he desires it, color his mustache -with the celebrated German Hair Dye. -Help him into his coat, and thanking -him bid him come again.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Purchase every good book pertaining -to your business, study diligently and -practice what you learn, and you will -soon stand abreast with the best and -most progressive barbers. You should -be prompted by no meaner ambition.</p> - -<h3 class='c006'>SUCCESS.</h3> - -<div class='lg-container-b c011'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in4'>“If you wish success in life,</div> - <div class='line'>Make perseverance your bosom friend,</div> - <div class='line in2'>Experience your wise counselor,</div> - <div class='line in4'>Caution your elder brother,</div> - <div class='line in2'>And hope your guardian genius.”</div> - <div class='line in26'><em>Addison</em>.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span> -<img src='images/i045.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c004'>Taxidermist's Manual.</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div>By <span class='sc'>T. J. McCONNAUGHAY</span>.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/i045.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span></div> -<div class='ph2'> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div>Taxidermy.</div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p class='c005'>The word taxidermy is derived from -the two Greek words, taxis, which -means arrangement, and derma which -means skin. Hence this term is applied -to the art of preserving and -mounting the skins of animals for ornamental -and scientific purposes. Little is -known of the origin of this art, but it -would seem from books of travel and -natural history, that it is at most, not -more than three hundred years old. It -began to be practiced in England about -the beginning of the 18th century, -which fact is proven from the “Sloane -Collection” which was formed in 1825, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>as the nucleus of the present natural -history collection lodged in the galleries -of South Kensington. It was -about the middle of the 18th century -that the first book devoted to the principles -of taxidermy was published in -France. After this, others appeared -from time to time in France and Germany, -but England contributed no literature -on the subject until about the -beginning of the present century. In -1828 an Englishman named Scudder, -established a museum of mounted specimens -in an old alms house in New York -City. Previous to this, the art seems -to have been absolutely unknown in -America. It was not till the exhibition -of 1851, that the French and German -taxidermists taught the English -the principles of scientific treatment.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Since that time several works have -appeared from the pens of English and -American authors. Prominently among -the American writers, were Charles -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>Waterton and Titian R. Peale who -greatly improved the art in this country.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Jules Verreaux, of Paris, brought -the art to a still higher perfection, and -introduced methods for giving to specimens -a life-like expression, which elevated -it quite to the realm of higher art. -Great were his accomplishments in the -art of expressing the actions and characteristic -attitudes of the living animals. -Since his day taxidermy has -rivaled the plastic art, and today, it has -reached such a degree of perfection -that the most artistic and æsthetic -effects may be wrought by the hands of -any operator who possesses artistic faculties. -The Illinois State Natural History -Society of Bloomington, published -an illustrated pamphlet from the pen -of one Mr. Holder, which is a very valuable -contribution to taxidermic literature. -The author was doubtless -greatly improved by his associations -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>with Audubon and Bell, and in his -book he gives the results of a ripe experience. -This book ranks as one of -the best yet published. We submit -the results of our own patient study -and practical experience, and hope it -may prove a worthy addition.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE I.<br /> <span class='large'>ON SKINNING, STUFFING AND PRESERVATION OF BIRDS.</span></h3> - -<h4 class='c013'>SKINNING.</h4> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i050.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>No. 3.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Immediately after -the bird is killed, the nostrils, -throat and wounds -should be stuffed with -cotton to prevent the -blood from oozing out -and staining the plumage; -but should any -blood get on the plumage, -it should be removed -as soon as possible. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>This can be done by taking a -cloth or sponge and dipping it in clean -water, wringing it out so as to leave it -only moist, and rubbing the feathers -gently until all traces of blood stain are -removed. Now sprinkle the feathers -with plaster of paris, and shake out -before it sets. Repeat this until they are -perfectly dry, -and then wrap -the specimen in -paper to protect -the plumage until -ready to skin, -which should be -done as soon as -the bird cools.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i051.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>No. 2.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>In proceeding -to skin a bird, -spread a cloth on a board or table and -lay the bird on its back. Separate the -feathers on the breast with a scalpel or -knife. Insert the knife at the top of -breast-bone and cut the skin from there -<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>to the tail. Great care should be taken -not to cut too deep over the intestines, -as it is only necessary to cut through -the skin. Now begin where you first -inserted the knife and proceed to separate -the skin from the flesh, either with -the fingers or the back of the scalpel or -knife. Tear some small pieces of -paper, say about an inch square, and -put under the skin on the flesh as you -get them separated, which will keep -the feathers from sticking to the flesh -and becoming soiled; or sprinkling -cornmeal over the flesh and skin while -skinning, will answer the same purpose. -Press carefully down each side -to backbone. Now press the thighs forward -and inward, draw the skin from -the thighs, unjointing them at the first -joint from the body.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The skin is now removed over the -rump, and the tail unjointed, taking -care not to injure the tail feathers. -Now for convenience, take a cord and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>fasten it to a nail on the wall or ceiling, -put a wire hook on the other end, and -fasten in the bird so you can suspend -it high enough above the table to work -on it easily. Now pull the skin downwards -until you get to the wings, -which are to be unjointed at the shoulder -joint. It is then pulled down over -the skull until the ears are reached. -Here many valuable specimens are -spoiled by cutting the ears too close to -the skin, so be sure to cut the ears -close to the skull.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The eyelids are often spoiled also by -inexperienced hands. Be sure and cut -them well back and, if necessary, trim -them afterwards. Now remove the eyeballs -and unjoint the skull from the -neck, enlarge the opening at the base -of skull, where the neck came off, and -remove the brain with spoon made -for that purpose. Now remove the -flesh from the thigh bone down to -knee joint, and turn them back in place; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>then skin the wings out to first joint -and remove the flesh. There is yet one -job and the skinning process is completed. -Divide the feathers on the under -side of the wing between the second -and third joints, cut the skin, and with -a sharp knife cut out all flesh from the -bone, and put in some of the preserving -powder; cover it with a little cotton -and sew it up, being careful not to draw -any of the feathers in; press the feathers -down smooth, and see that each is -in its proper place.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There are some birds with large -heads and small necks. With these we -cannot draw the skin over the head, -but have to push the skin as near the -head as it is possible, and cut off the -neck bone; then make an opening under -the throat large enough to turn out -the skull and the remaining part of the -neck bone, and proceed to skin the skull, -take out brain, etc., as directed heretofore. -The flesh must be carefully removed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>from all parts of the skin, and -the preserving powder applied, being -very careful that all parts are well powdered.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If you now wish to mount the bird -it can be done immediately.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>STUFFING BIRDS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>In the first place take some plaster -paris, mix it with water to a stiff paste, -and fill the eye-sockets with it, then -press the glass eye in the paris, using -great care to set them in as near a natural -position as possible. When the -plaster has hardened, which it does -very quickly, if the skin has become -dry, dampen it with a damp sponge, -and turn it back over the skull, then -lay the bird on the table and proceed -to put in the frame, stuff and sew up.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I give three kinds of frames. One -is the wire and wood frame, which you -see on page <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, Figs. 9 and 10. The -others, wire frames, on page <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, Fig. 3, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>for birds; also Fig. 11, for humming -birds and other small birds, on page <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Take frame described Nos. 9 and 10, -having the leg wire AA detached from -body board, fill the neck with tow, being -careful not to fill it too full; run -neck wire E through the center of the -neck and pass it out at the top of head, -as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, or through -one of the nostrils. I prefer the latter, -because it does not break the skin and -holds the head more steady. Then put -the tail support E through the center -or heavy part of the tail, raise the body -board and place under it some tow or -cotton; or pad the board by placing -some cotton on it and tacking some -cloth over it to keep the frame off from -the back; then take the leg wires, Fig. -13, AA and put them in the legs, as -shown in cut No. 3, and fasten on to the -body board with blind staples, as represented -in cut No. 3; proceed with the -stuffing; finish filling out the neck and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>breast, shaping it while filling, using -care not to get it too full, as that is a -fault of most beginners; after filling it -down to the opening, the next should -be the legs; if the leg bone is left in -from the knee up, wrap it to the leg -wire with a strip of muslin and tie it; -then stuff the leg up to the body, fill -the body and sew up; in sewing be careful -not to draw any of the feathers -down with the thread. After it is all -sewed up, place all the feathers down -smooth and in their proper place, as -much depends on this.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Next place the specimen on a board -or perch; if on a board, procure a suitable -one, bore two holes the size of the -leg wires through it, then make a -groove on the under side of board running -off from each hole to lay wire -down in; place the specimen on the -board, running the leg wires through -it, and draw the wires down until the -legs set in proper position, bend the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>wires down into the grooves and fasten -them with small blind staples. In this -connection one should use his own judgment -in placing the bird on the board; -one leg should generally be placed a little -in advance of the other. If the bird -is to be placed on a limb perch, bore -the holes through the limb, place the -bird on, and draw the wires tight, and -drive a wooden wedge in beside the -wire to hold it, then file the wire off -close to the under side of the perch. -Pose the bird in as natural a position as -you can, imitating nature as near as -possible. Place the wings in position, -then take a piece of wire heavy enough -to hold the wings in place. Sharpen one -end, and make a square turn about one-fourth -of an inch from the other end -to keep it from pulling through the wing. -Now place the wings in proper shape. -Pass the wire through the wings and body -in a way to hold them in shape. Pull -the wire until the turn on the one end -<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>presses against the wing. Cut the wire -on other side of bird and turn it back, -as on the other side, so that the wire -cannot be pulled either way; then arrange -the whole body—wings, neck, -tail, head, etc. In case the specimen -is a web-footed bird, take a thin piece -of board, say from a cigar box, cut it -to fit in between the toes, and tack -them in to hold the web in shape while -drying. This should be removed when -dry. After all is completed bathe the -buts of wings, the feet, legs and beak, -with the preserving fluid; this should -be repeated for three or four days. -Then let the specimen dry in a shady -place. It can then be placed on another -board or perch and set in the cabinet.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>MOUNTING BIRDS ON WIRE FRAME.</h4> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>(See directions for making frame.)</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>Skin the bird and prepare it as -directed in this article. Fill the neck -with tow, put in neck wire, letting the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>end come out through the nostril; bend -leg wires AA back so as to get them -in the legs; run them down on the inside -of the leg, or through the center -of leg bone, and come out in the center -of the foot. (See cuts Nos. 2 and 3.) -Put tail support E through the under -part of the tail, and proceed as directed -heretofore in this article, to -stuff, sew up, etc.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Where the tow can not be secured -and you have to use cotton in stuffing, -always put in the neck wire first, and -stuff around it or wrap the neck wire -with strips of muslin, old calico, or -anything that can be used for that purpose, -always being careful not to make -the neck too large. Excelsior can be -used to good advantage in stuffing large -bodies.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>PELICANS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>In dressing a pelican always use the -board and wire frame. For position, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>copy after some picture of the bird, -which you can find in any natural history. -The only difference in dressing -from the goose, etc., is they have a -game sack under the lower jaw, which -is often as much as ten inches wide and -sixteen inches long. I find the best -way to dress that is to take a fine shingle, -wide and long enough, and trim it -in the shape of a sleigh runner, and -put it inside of the pouch or game sack, -with the straight edge up and the -square end toward the neck. Draw -the pouch smooth over the shingle, -and tie the bill together, then wet well -with the solution of corrosive sublimate. -The board should be left in. -Wire can be bent and placed in to answer -the same purpose.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>PEA-FOWL.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>In dressing a pea-fowl, where the -wings and tail have to be spread, extra -wires have to be put in. The wires -<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>for the wings are fastened on to the -body board, as when used for the fore -legs of animals. Then, for the tail -support, take a wire about five feet -long and bend it in a hoop shape, leaving -enough of the ends to extend into -and fasten on the body board. This -must be put on the board before putting -it in the body. Dress the bird as -others, letting the hoop or tail support -extend out under the tail. After it is -all stuffed and set on the board, bend -the tail support up back of tail, and -fasten the feathers of the tail to it by -tying them, one at a time, with a heavy -thread, in such a way that when all are -fastened to the wire they will stand as -when the bird was strutting. Arrange -the wings and body to suit and let dry.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>DRESSING BIRDS WITH WINGS SPREAD.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>To dress a bird with wings spread, -either flying or sitting, it will be necessary -to put in wing wires to hold the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>wings out. The easiest way is to use the -wire and board frame, using the front -leg wires as used in animals, for the -wings. See Figs. 7 and 8, board and -body frame.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In dressing a bird this way, after -skinning and wiring, as directed for -bird, using frames 9 and 10, put in the -wing wires and fasten them to body -board, as directed for forelegs of animals.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If wishing to represent the bird as -flying, take four cords and fasten them -to the back of the bird in a way that -will balance it; tie them together a few -inches above the back and extend one -cord longer than the others. It can -now be hung from the ceiling by the -cord; this will let the specimen turn -about and present a fine appearance. -The feet should be placed in as near a -natural position as possible as when -flying. In all large footed birds use -plenty of the solution of corrosive sublimate -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>or turpentine. The carbolic acid -and water mixture is also used, and is -good.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TO CLEAN FEATHERS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>As a test case take a bird after killing -and smear it all over with blood, -let it lie until dry. Then put it in a -basin, and give it a good washing with -soap and water, then rinse it clean. -Now take a dry cloth and wipe it until -almost dry. Then sprinkle it with dry -plaster of paris and shake it out before -it has time to set. Repeat this powdering -and shaking until it is perfectly -dry, and the feathers will look bright -and nice. Try it.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>PRESERVATION OF BUGS, ETC.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Take a large moth fly or miller full -of eggs. Make an incision on the under -side of body and take out all the eggs -and entrails. Now put in some of the -preserving fluid and fill the cavity with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>cotton and sew it up. Then run a pin -down through the body and pin it to a -board. Arrange its feet, moisten its -body with the preserving fluid and the -job is complete. Butterflies and small -bugs need only the preparation over -the body. Heavy bugs can be placed -in a cup and the preparation poured -over them. Let them lie in it a few -hours and pin on board as directed in -moth flies. When dry place in a glass -case.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE II.<br /> OF SKINNING ANIMALS.</h3> - -<p class='c005'>As soon as an animal is killed, take -cotton and stuff in the wounds, nostrils -and mouth, as directed in Article I. for -birds; then let it cool before commencing -to skin. In skinning a specimen -be very careful about cutting holes in -the skin, and also not to stretch it by -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>pulling on it while skinning. All being -ready, lay the specimen on its back, -make an incision from the breast-bone -back to the center between the hind -legs, being careful not to cut too deep -over the abdomen. Divide the skin -right and left, putting cotton or paper -on the body as the skin is removed, or -sprinkle with corn meal, as directed for -birds in Article I, to prevent the fatty -matter from soiling the hair. When -you come to the hind legs, pull the skin -down over the thigh joint, and unjoint -it, cut the leg off and skin down to the -knee joint and unjoint there, taking out -all the flesh down to the foot, then -treat the other hind leg the same way. -Now skin down over the rump and -back to the tail. The tail is hard to -skin. Take a forked stick, and after -pressing the skin as far down on the -tail-bone as possible, holding the bone -as tight in the fork as you can, pull -downward and the bone will slip out. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>If the animal is not too large it should -be swung up with a rope or cord tied -around the body just in front of the -hind legs, or by attaching a hook to the -rope which fastens into the flesh. Remove -the skin down to the forelegs, -and unjoint them at the body, and skin -out in the same manner as directed for -the hind legs, unjointing at the knees. -Now skin the neck and head, and when -you come to the ears cut them close to -the skull; fine specimens are often -spoiled by cutting them too far out -from the skull. We next come to the -eyes. Be careful not to cut the eyelids. -It is better to cut close to the skull and -trim afterwards than to risk spoiling -them. Remove the skin. Unjoint the -neck close to the skull, enlarge the -opening at the base of brain and remove -all the brains. Take out the eyes and -tongue and remove all flesh from the -skull.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This completes the skinning, except -<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>when the animal has horns. In that -case, proceed as above until you come -to the neck. Skin as far forward as -you can and unjoint the neck at skull. -Then cut across from one horn to -the other and loosen the skin around -the horns. Then make another cut -from between the horns backwards -along the neck far enough to make the -opening large enough to take the skull -out; skin out the skull and the skinning -is completed. The flesh must now be -cleaned from the skull by boiling until -tender, then scraping it, or simply by -cutting and scraping it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Take out the brains, eyes, etc., we -are now ready to anoint the whole -inside of skin, skull, etc., with the -preserving powder. Put in the frame -and stuff the body if ready; if not, the -ears, nose, feet and lips must be well -wet with the preserving fluid and laid -away in a cool, dry place.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span> - <h4 class='c013'>STUFFING AND MOUNTING ANIMALS.</h4> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i069.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>No. 4.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>After the skin is prepared, -we will begin by -preparing the skull. -After cleaning as directed -anoint it with the -preserving powder, then -put in suitable eyes, as -directed in birds. Now -if the legs are large -enough to take in -the leg wires, drill -holes through the ends large enough to -receive said wires. Next divide the -skin of ears out to the points and place -a piece of tin in them the shape of ear. -Now turn the skin of head inside out -and sew up the mouth, draw the under -lip up under the upper lip and sew it -there so as when turned back the -stitches will not show. Next stretch -the hide on the bench and measure it. -In order to make the wire frame as -shown and described in wire frames, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>Nos. 4 and 6, make the frame of suitable -malleable wire, and place it in as -shown, except the neck wire should be -passed out at nostril. First put the -skull in place and pass the neck wire -through the nose. Then pass the leg -wires out through the leg bones, or on -the inside of skin where the bone is -not large enough to receive it. Now -cut the tail wire long enough to reach -to end of tail and put it in place.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now, if the skin has not been previously -prepared with some of the preserving -preparations, powder the whole -inside with the arsenic and alum. -However, the head and legs have to be -prepared before putting in the frame. -We are now ready for the filling. -Stuff cotton in around the leg wires to -make the legs proper shape, being careful -not to get it in too tight. Take -some sand and mix some arsenic with -it; fill the tail with this, placing some -cotton at base of tail to hold the sand -<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>in. Now stuff the neck and body with -any suitable material, shaping and sewing -up as you proceed. Examine the -head, and where it needs filling out -pass the cotton in through nose and -ears, and shape it as in life, arranging -the ears, nose and mouth. Now pose -the specimen as you wish it to remain, -and place it in a cool, dry place -to dry. The leg wires should be bent -so as to allow the foot to rest on board, -and when dry the wires should be cut -off at bottom of feet, and the projecting -neck wire at end of nose should -also be cut off. Anoint the feet, nose -and ears with the preserving fluid once -a day for a few days. The wood and -wire frame is used in heavy animals, -the wood simply taking the place of the -wire along the back. By examining -the cuts it is easy to see how they are -to be used.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Wishing to stand animals, such as -squirrels, groundhogs, etc., on the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>hind legs, they have to remain on a -block or perch; so procure a suitable -block or perch, and varnish it before -putting the specimen on. Animals and -birds can be stuffed with hay, or anything -that you can get into them in -good shape. I often mow fine bluegrass -and dry it carefully, and find it -makes splendid stuffing, especially for -the bodies of animals and large birds. -Excelsior also makes a good filling.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>ON MOUNTING DEER HEADS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>In mounting a deer's head to look -life-like (having horns on), proceed to -skin, anoint with the preserving powder, -build up the nose with plaster -of paris, put in the eyes, sew up the -mouth and neck, for which see directions -in another article. Now take a -2×4-inch piece of pine for a neck support. -Fit the end of it in the brain -pit with plaster of paris. When the -plaster has hardened sew up the mouth -<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>as directed in cat. Draw the skin up -over the skull and sew the skin together, -drawing it close around the -horns. The skin being opened on back -of neck, sew it up to within six inches -of back end. Now make a board to fit -in back end of neck skin, and fasten it -to the neck support in such a way as to -hold the head on wall as desired. Tack -the skin around the board, being careful -not to draw the hair down. Stuff -the neck and finish sewing up. Cut the -skin off at back of board. Arrange -the whole head as directed in the cat -and set away to dry. See that the ears -and eyes are all right, and use plenty -of the preserving fluid. When the -head is completed make a suitable shield -to place on back end of the neck; this -should be of a neat pattern and nicely -polished. Fasten this on to neck board -with screws, then on the wall, also with -screws, which should be passed through -the shield, under edge of hair, to conceal -the heads of screws.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span> - <h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE III.<br /> A SIMPLE METHOD OF SKINNING, STUFFING AND PRESERVING FISH.</h3> -</div> -<h4 class='c013'>FISH DRESSING.</h4> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i074.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>No. 1.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Take a scale fish, say one that weighs -two pounds, more or less, and if a fish -on which the scales are tight, you can -skin and dress it without losing any of -the scales; but if a loose scaled fish, it -will be better to protect them as follows: -Take some tissue paper and press -it gently on one side of the fish, then -<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>turn it over and treat the other side in -the same manner. The natural glutinous -matter which covers the scales will -be sufficient to make it adhere firmly. -Without this precaution the skin could -not be removed from some fish without -losing the scales, which would ruin the -specimen. When these papers dry, lay -the fish on its back, take a pair of scissors -and open the skin down the center -of the belly, beginning close up the -gills and running clear back to the end -of the body.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The skin should now be taken off -with great care, using a smooth-edged -knife for skinning, and a pair of scissors -to clip the fins and other fine -bones with. After the body has been -skinned, take out the gills, tongue and -eyes.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is now ready for the preserving -powder, which should be spread or -dusted over the inside of the skin, being -careful to reach all parts around -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>the gills, in the mouth, eye sockets, -etc. We now insert the frame E (see -cut No. 1), which is simply a wire bent -as shown in the cut, and sew up, beginning -at the tail and ending at the gills, -leaving the ends EE of frame projecting, -as represented in cut No. 1. We -now proceed to fill the body with plaster -paris. Mix up a sufficient quantity, -take a funnel, open the gills or mouth -and insert the tube of the funnel therein, -and pour in enough plaster paris to fill -the body. Handle the body carefully, -and shape it properly, while the plaster -is setting, being careful to keep the -frame EE straight with the body. -When the plaster has set (or hardened), -bore two holes in a rough board to set -the frame rods EE in, which will hold -the body up off the board. (See cut.) -Now proceed to stuff the head with cotton, -being careful not to press the gills -out of shape, then draw the mouth together -with a thread and tie it. Fill -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>the eye socket with plaster paris or -putty, and set the eye in the proper -position.</p> - -<p class='c000'>We are now ready for the fins and tail; -if they have become dry, wet them -with water and spread them out; then -take a needle and thread and draw them -up, as shown in cut No. 1.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To make the frame, take a rough -board, say one inch longer than the -fish you intend to dress. For a fish a -foot long, the board should be one inch -thick and about three inches wide, and -for larger fish in the same proportion, -or large enough to support the fish. -To one end of the board nail a piece -of lath a foot long (see D in cut); on -the other end nail a block (C in cut), -to which nail an upright piece (B in -cut). Tack the tail to the upright (B) -with tacks (P). Raise the upper fins -by drawing a thread through them and -tying to upright piece, as shown in cut. -Drive two nails in board (A), as shown -<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>(GH), to which fasten threads attached -to lower fins as shown in cut. Set -away to dry and when thoroughly dry -wash the whole body, take off the tissue -paper. When the fish gets dry, dampen -all the outer surface with corrosive sublimate -and set away. Take off the -threads and place it on a nice, smooth -board and give a light coat of varnish. -The specimen is then ready for the -cabinet.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Should you prefer to stuff the body -with cotton instead of using plaster -paris, proceed as follows: After skinning -as directed, make a frame, EE, -and take a straight piece of wire long -enough to reach from the point of the -nose to the other end of the body, -fasten this to the frame, EE, at the -upper end, by wrapping them together -with a small wire or cord, leaving the -frame EE as near the center as possible. -Take cotton or tow and wrap -the wire that is to run lengthwise of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>the body, say one-fourth as big as the -body, then insert it in the skin and -proceed to stuff with cotton, being very -careful to get the natural shape. When -this is completed, proceed to sew up -and mount as directed when dressed -with plaster paris. The Gar fish makes -a fine specimen, by simply filling the -skin with dry sand while drying, and -let it out when dry.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE IV.<br /> HUNTING SPECIMENS AND CARE OF SAME.</h3> - -<p class='c005'>In hunting specimens, birds or animals, -it is best to take a double-barreled -shot-gun, have your cartridges loaded -some with fine shot, and some with -coarse; keep one barrel loaded with one -number and the other barrel with the -other number, then you are ready for -either small or large game. Have some -cotton and old newspaper with you, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>and as soon as you kill a specimen, stop -up the shot holes with the cotton, and -it is sometimes best to stuff some in the -nostrils and mouth. If any blood has -run out on the hair, or feathers, as the -case may be, wipe it off carefully, then -wrap the body in paper and pack it in -the game sack, using all care not to -bend, break or soil the feathers, for if -once soiled it is hard to make the work -look well again.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On removing the birds from the -game sack, if there is any blood on the -feathers, wash it out with clear water, -and wipe until nearly dry; then sprinkle -with plaster of paris and shake until -dry. In this way the feathers will -look smooth and natural; but if, after -washing, you let them dry without -stirring, they will present a bad appearance. -Where the blood has remained -on the feathers they must be well -washed and treated as directed in a test -case as given at close of Article I.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span> - <h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE V.<br /> WOOD AND WIRE FRAMES.</h3> -</div> - -<div class='figleft id007'> -<img src='images/i081a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 7.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id008'> -<img src='images/i081b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 8.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figleft id009'> -<img src='images/i081c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 9.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id010'> -<img src='images/i081d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 10.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figleft id011'> -<img src='images/i081e.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 11.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id012'> -<img src='images/i081f.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 12.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id013'> -<img src='images/i081g.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 13.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>The above cuts represent my wood -and wire frames for animals and birds.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Fig. 7 is Fig. 8 reversed; Fig. 8, -showing the way the neck and tail supports -EE are fastened to the body board -with blind staples. Fig. 7 shows the -way the leg wires AA are fastened in -the same manner. In making the -frame, measure the animal from shoulder -to hip, and cut the board a little -longer than the measure taken; round -<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>the corners as shown in cuts, and round -the upper edges to keep them from cutting -the skin should it come in contact -with it. Now take a wire or rod long -enough to reach from the end of the tail -to the end of the nose, bend the wire -as shown in Fig. 8, and fasten it to the -body board with blind staples, unless -the specimen be a large one, then it -will be necessary to put them on with -strong wire staples. Next bend the -wires for legs as shown in Fig. 12, -which should not be fastened to the -board until after being placed in the -legs of the animal being dressed. They -are then bent up as shown in Fig. 13 -and fastened to the body board with -staples to suit.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The frame for birds is made in the -same way, excepting the forelegs, which -is used on bird frames only when wanting -to spread the wings. Fig. 11 is a -single wire frame, to be bent in the -manner shown, and to be used in dressing -small birds. (See small bird page <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>).</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span> - <h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE VI.<br /> FOR BIRDS AND ANIMALS.</h3> -</div> -<h4 class='c013'>WIRE FRAMES.</h4> - -<div class='figleft id014'> -<img src='images/i083a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 1.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id015'> -<img src='images/i083b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 2.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figleft id016'> -<img src='images/i083c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 3.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figright id015'> -<img src='images/i083d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 4.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figleft id017'> -<img src='images/i083e.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 5.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id018'> -<img src='images/i083f.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 6.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The above frames are made as -follows: Take a straight wire and turn -a loop in the center as shown at B, -Fig. 1. Take another wire about the -same length and bend it as shown -in Fig. 2. Now run Fig. 2 wire through -the loop B in Fig. 1 down to bend E, -fasten them in a vice at the loop B in -Fig. 1, and plait the three together as -shown in Fig. 3. To form the Fig. 4 -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>frame, make another loop two or three -inches or further up the neck wire E, -bend another wire as Fig. 2, put this -through the loop, and plait together as -in Fig. 3. This forms the frame for -animals, as shown in Fig. 4.</p> - -<p class='c000'>For Figs. 5 and 6, lay three wires -together as shown in Fig. 5, put them -in a vise and twist or plait together as -shown in Fig. 6. This forms three -wire frames—Figs. 3, 4 and 6.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The advantage Fig. 4 frame has over -Fig. 6, is that it is easier bent in the -center, there only being one wire.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE VII.<br /> MOLES.</h3> - -<p class='c007'>It is not necessary to give more than -one way to dress a mole. An expert -can skin, stuff and sew up a mole in -ten minutes in the following manner:</p> - -<p class='c000'>After killing a mole, let it cool; then -<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>make an incision along the abdomen, -commencing at the tail and running -forward two inches, or about to the -center of the body. Skin out the hind -legs, bone and flesh, down to the foot -and unjoint. Press the skin back to -the tail and unjoint it close to the -body. Pull the skin off the body, -taking care of front feet, not to pull -them loose from the skin; unjoint them, -or break the arm bone close to the foot; -skin on down to mouth and cut the body -loose, leaving only the jaw bones in the -skin. Spread on the whole skin all the -preserving powder that will stick to it, -and turn the skin back inside out. -Turn the hind legs and proceed to fill -the body with cotton, using a wire to -stuff the cotton in with, as in all other -animals, being careful not to stretch -the skin, and also not to get the cotton -knotted up. After the body is filled -sew it up and place on a board to dry. -Place the feet in position, and wet -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>them and the tail and nose with the -solution of corrosive sublimate.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Other small animals, such as rats, -mice, ground squirrels, gophers, etc., -can be dressed in the same manner. -After stuffing smooth the hair and -shape the body before laying away.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE VIII.<br /> MODE OF DRESSING AND PRESERVING TURTLES.</h3> - -<p class='c005'>A good sized turtle may be thoroughly -preserved without the tedious -process of unjointing, skinning, digging -out the flesh, sewing up, etc., by -observing the following directions:</p> - -<p class='c000'>Take a snapping, or any other hard -shell turtle, say one that measures ten -inches across the back, or smaller, -down to the smallest.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The first thing to be done is to kill -it, which is the hardest part of the operation, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>as it clings to life tenaciously, -and large ones are very strong and hard -to manage. One way is to get it to -open its mouth, and catch it by the under -jaw with a pair of strong pliers, -hold its mouth open and make it swallow -a quantity of the solution of corrosive -sublimate; this being a deadly -poison, it will soon kill it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another way is to hold its head as -far out as you can pull it, and stick it -as close to the under shell as you can, -running the blade well back into the -body. It takes some time for it to -die after being stuck.</p> - -<p class='c000'>And still another way is to open its -mouth and stick a knife blade up -through the roof of the mouth into the -brain.</p> - -<p class='c000'>I prefer the poisoning, as it seems -to die easier and quicker, and it does -not disfigure it. As soon as it dies, lay -it on its back, and make an opening in -the skin, under one of the back legs, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>large enough to take out all the entrails; -now take a pair of pliers or a -hook (made for the purpose); pull out -all the entrails, liver, heart, etc. If -the specimen is a large one, pour in -some water and rinse out thoroughly, -then put in a lot of the preserving -powder, being careful to get it well distributed -through the body. Then take -some cotton and dust it well with the -preserving powder, and fill up the inside, -pressing the cotton in tight, filling -the body full and sew up. Now open -the mouth and pour some of the solution -of corrosive sublimate down -its throat, and press some cotton -sprinkled with the powder down its -throat, being careful not to stretch the -neck out of proportion. Remove the -eyes and insert the artificial eyes in -their stead; fill the mouth with cotton -and close it. Cut a hole in the bottom -of each foot, and probe the legs with a -knife or the blunt end of a wire; pour -<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>in some of the solution of corrosive -sublimate, or work in enough of the -powder to preserve the flesh; if the tail -is a large one, it should be treated in -the same way, and all sewed up. Now -set it on a board and tack the feet to -the board in as near the way it would -hold them while walking as you can. -Pull the neck out a very little, and put -a little block or a small roll of cotton -under it to hold it up in position while -drying. Before putting it on the drying -board, take a small paint brush, -pour out some of the solution of corrosive -sublimate in a dish and give the -whole outer surface a thorough wetting. -This should be repeated once a -day for several days. This completes -the dressing. After the specimen is -dry, take it off the board and set in the -cabinet.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another way: After killing, as directed, -lay the specimen on its back and -unjoint the breast shell from back shell -<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>with a chisel or heavy knife blade; -open the skin from the front part of -the foreleg back and around to front -of the other foreleg, cutting under the -legs. Skin out all the flesh and bones -of the legs and unjoint them at the foot, -skin out the tail, then unjoint the neck -bone from backbone, and skin it out -and unjoint at the back of the skull. -Take the flesh from back and breast -shells, then anoint all parts with the -preserving powder. Take a frame as -Fig. 8, in article V, of the wire and -wood frame, and put in legs, neck and -tail, as directed in animals, letting the -neck wire pass out through the mouth -or nostril. Stuff the legs, neck and -tail with cotton or tow, and sew up the -sides, leaving an opening to stuff the -body; fill the body, then finish sewing -up. In stuffing the legs, neck and tail -be careful to keep the wires in the center -of each. Open the mouth and take -out the eyes from inside and put in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>glass eyes; put some cotton back of -them to hold them in place while drying. -Close the mouth, and wet the -whole body with the solution of corrosive -sublimate. This should be done -once a day for several days. Place the -specimen on a board to dry. For position, -copy after nature as near as possible. -After the skin is dry a coat of -varnish adds much to its appearance.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE IX.<br /> KILLING AND DRESSING SNAKES.</h3> - -<p class='c005'>To kill a snake without bruising or -breaking the skin is a difficult undertaking, -for, as a general thing, we are -not looking for snakes, therefore we -are not prepared to capture one.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When we do run across them, we -generally kill them with the first thing -we get hold of. If the snake is not -too large, strike it across the back -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>with a small stick. This disables him, -and you now have time to prepare to -finish him. Watch your chance and -when the opportunity presents itself, -tap it on the head a few times, and you -can soon kill it without bruising. -When it is dead, open its mouth and -cut the tongue and fangs out, then unjoint -the backbone from the skull and -skin back on the body an inch or two, -turning the skin inside out. Tie a cord -to the skinned part of the body and -pull on this with your right hand, -while with your left hand you pull the -skin off from the body, which is easily -done if the snake is not too large in the -center of the body; in that case it must -be opened in the largest part of the -body. Make the opening on under -side of body, lengthwise of the snake, -and long enough to allow you to remove -the skin all around the body, -then cut the body in two. Skin out -both ends, unjointing the body close to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>the skull, turn the skin right side out -and sew up the opening, taking short -stitches. Now mix some plaster paris -and water, leaving it thin enough to -run; place a funnel in the mouth and -pour the plaster in until the body is -full. Lay the snake on a level board -and coil it before the plaster gets dry, -placing the head in the position in -which you want it to remain. Take -out the eyes and put in the glass ones; -then wet the whole skin with the solution -of corrosive sublimate. This -should be repeated once a day for three -or four days.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another method is to skin and sew -up as directed, then take a long wire -and stuff the body with cotton or tow, -being careful to get the stuffing in -smooth, so that no lumps will show on -the outside.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another way is to fill the body with -sand, and when the skin has thoroughly -dried, make a hole in the under -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>part of the body and let the sand run out.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In either of the above modes the -snake should be coiled as soon as -stuffed in the shape you want it to remain, -and plenty of the solution of corrosive -sublimate used over the skin.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Eels, frogs and toads are skinned -and stuffed in the same manner as the -snake, no frames being used.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE X.<br /> DRESSING ALLIGATORS.</h3> - -<p class='c005'>Take an alligator, say five feet long, -make an incision the full length of the -body, on the under side, and skin out -all the flesh and bones, as recommended -in skinning animals. Scrape off all the -fat or flesh that may be left on the -inside of the skin, and give it a thorough -coat of the preserving powder. -Now proceed to stuff it without using -any frame. First stuff the legs with cotton -or tow, pressing it in very tight—their -<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>skin being very tough, there is no -danger of stretching it. Sew the neck -up, down to the front legs, and stuff -tight; now sew up the tail to hind legs -and stuff it; then take a piece of pine -board, say an inch thick, two inches -wide, and twelve inches long, place this -inside of the skin, draw the edges together -over it, and tack both edges -close together on the board, fill the -body up to the end of this board, and -put in another board in the same way, -and again stuff; when the full length of -the opening is closed up in this way, -before putting in the last section, have -the body thoroughly stuffed and put -the section in afterward.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The advantage in putting in the board -is this: It is almost impossible to sew -the skin, and as it is to lay flat, it is -much easier to use the boards; they -could also be used in the neck and tail, -if you wish to lay them straight with -the body. Lay the specimen on a flat -<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>board, and place his feet and tail as -you wish to have them. The eyes -should now be removed, some of the -solution of corrosive sublimate put in -the sockets, then put the glass eyes in -with putty or plaster paris. Close -the mouth and set a block under the jaw -to hold it up while drying. Give the -body a thorough wetting with spirits of -turpentine, repeating it once a day for -three or four days. After the skin -becomes well dried give it one or two -coats of varnish and you have a fine -specimen.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE XI.<br /> DESCRIPTION OF FOOT-STOOL.</h3> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i096.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>No. 5.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>Letter (A) -represents the -covering, (B) -the moss or hair -filling, (C) the -bolt which fastens -<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>the horn to the stool brace, (D) -the tap of said bolt, (E) the wooden -base of stool, (F) a small rod or nail set -in the plaster paris, (G) a rivet through -the horn, (H) head to bolt, (J) plaster -paris in the horn.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE STOOL</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Take three cow horns of good shape -and size; rasp them and sand-paper -down, as hereafter directed in Article -XII; then, after deciding what height -you want the legs, make a frame to -saw them off on, as illustrated and -directed in Article XII, cut No. 6. -After sawing off, drill a hole through -in the horn about three-quarters of an -inch from the large end. This hole -should be large enough to take in a ten-penny -nail. Put the nail through and -file it off even with the horn on both -sides, and rivet it with a small riveting -hammer. Now level up the ends of -the horns where they were sawed off, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>by taking a coarse piece of sand-paper, -and laying it on a level board, rub the -ends of the horn round and round on it -until it is perfectly level. Now take -the bolt C, of size and length to suit the -horn, put it down in the horn to see -that it will suit; sometimes it has to be -bent in the shape of the horn; after -fitting it to the horn, leaving about 1¼ -inches projecting out to go through the -wooden base E and leaving room for -the tap D. Now mix some plaster paris -and water until about as thick as it -will run; pour this in the horn until -nearly full, put in the bolt, as shown, -and while the plaster paris is yet soft, -take an eight-penny wire nail and push -it down head first in the plaster paris, -leaving about half an inch sticking out; -this nail and the bolt should both come -straight up from the level of the end -of the horn. When the plaster is partially -dry, level up around the bolt and -nail at the end. The horn should now -<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>be polished as directed in Article XII. -The next is the wooden base E; have a -board turned or cut round, say twelve -inches across and one inch thick. This -should be made of walnut, or some -other hard wood, but when the hard -wood can not be procured pine will do. -If pine is used it should be painted, or -stained and varnished on the under side, -and if walnut it should be sand-papered, -filled and varnished. Now strike a -circle within about two inches of the -outer edge and bore three holes at equal -distances apart and set in the bolts; -when you get them in the position you -want them, press down on them to get -the imprint of the nails F, then remove -the horns and bore a hole the size of -the nails F. Now put the bolts in again -and screw the top on tight. The nail -F is to keep the horns from turning -around and getting out of place. See -that the butt of horn fits tight to the -wooden base E.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span> - <h4 class='c013'>UPHOLSTERING FOOT-STOOL.</h4> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Go to a saddler and get either curled -hair, deer hair, or moss sufficient for a -heavy pad; lay it on the floor and beat -all the dirt out of it, then pick it all -apart to get all the matted lumps out, -lay it on the stool top and pile it up -about a foot high while loose, take a -piece of muslin or drilling, lay it on -top of the moss or hair and draw all -the four corners down tight, tacking -them about the center of the edge of -the wooden base E, then draw it all -down and tack in the same manner, -drawing very tight, being careful to -get it round and even and leaving no -wrinkle. In case the moss is not evenly -distributed, take a long awl and run it -through the covering and carefully distribute -it.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Next in order is the outside covering, -which should be a fine piece of silk -plush or velvet. Get a piece large -enough to work some fine flower or -<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>motto in the center, then put it on in -the same manner as the first, only tacking -it down near the lower edge of the -wooden base E; by being careful you -can get it on without wrinkling it. -The tacks should be small and very -close together. Put a piece of braid -around the edge and tack it on with upholstering -tacks and the stool is completed.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>SAWING OFF HORNS.</h4> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i101.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>No. 6.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>Cut No. 6 is to illustrate a frame on -which to cut horns to be used for footstool -legs. Without a frame of this -kind it is almost impossible to cut them -to set level with stool and floor. In -fact, it is more difficult than it would -be for a carpenter to cut molding to -fit corners, etc., without a mitre box. -It is very simple and is made as follows: -For a frame large enough to cut four -horns, take a fencing board and cut off -a piece from it two feet long. The -board is supposed to be about six inches -wide and one inch thick. Saw off -another piece the same length and nail -it to the edge, as shown in cut. This -we will call the back of frame and the -other the bottom. The back then is -five inches high, measuring from bottom -board up. This completes the -frame as shown. The horns are now -placed on the frame and nails driven -around them into the frame to hold -them firmly in place. Place the horns -<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>close together in setting on the frame -and pour plaster paris over the points -of all, as shown in cut horn A. After -the plaster paris has thoroughly hardened, -saw off another piece of the same -board and nail it to front edge of bottom -board, and proceed to saw off the -horns level with the upper edge of back -and front boards, as in horn A. Should -you want the legs longer or shorter, -take wider or narrower boards for back -and front of frame. After taking the -horns from the frame, proceed to put -in the wire through the butt of horn -and rivet it; then put in the bolt and -nail F (as directed in a former article) -and fill the horn with plaster paris, as -shown in the above cut (C). The horn -is now ready, after polishing, to be -placed on the stool. It can also be -placed on a board and used for a hat -hook, or for holding back window curtains, -etc.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span> - <h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE XII.<br /> DIRECTIONS FOR POLISHING HORNS, HOOFS, ETC.</h3> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>Go to a hardware store and buy two -good wood rasps, flat on one side and -round on the other; then get three -grades of emery or sand-paper, say No. -1, No. 0, No. 00; then go to a drug store -and buy ten cents' worth of sweet oil -and ten cents' worth of rotten stone. -Get an old felt hat and an old case -knife and you are ready for business.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Take of either horns or hoofs, several -at a time, and put them in an old pot -or kettle of boiling water, let it boil -until they become soft, which usually -takes about half an hour; take out one -at a time and rasp it until it begins to -cool and harden, put it back and take -out another, and keep this up until all -are rasped down to the shape you want -them. Now take one at a time in the -same manner and scrape them until -<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>they are scraped smooth of all rasp -marks, using the case knife for the -scraper, the edge of which has been -ground square off like that of a shear -blade. Now take the No. 1 sand-paper -and sand-paper down, then use the No. -0, and finally finish up with the No. 00, -rubbing-lengthwise of the horn. We -are now ready for the finishing touch. -Take a piece of felt sufficiently large to -rub with, pour some of the sweet oil -on it, then dust with the rotten stone, -and give the horn a thorough rubbing, -putting more of the rotten stone on occasionally, -and keep up the rubbing -until you get a high polish. Such a -polish will remain on for years.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another way to polish horns: Fasten -them firmly on a bench or to the wall. -Take a strip of ticking or felt about -three inches wide and three feet long. -Wet it in water and sprinkle powdered -emery over both sides. Take hold of -both ends, place it around the horn and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>draw backwards and forwards, around -and around, until the horn presents a -smooth surface; then take another strip -of the same description and use in the -same manner, except using rotten stone -instead of the emery. There are different -grades of the emery, and only -the finest is to be used in polishing; a -coarser grade can be used in the same -manner in the place of sand-paper, and -is very good.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>COLORING HORNS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>If you wish to give a horn a flesh -color, secure a very light colored horn, -rasp and scrape it down very thin, and -polish so that the horn is transparent. -Get some red paint (with plenty of -dryer in it) give the inside of the horn -a coat of the paint, and set it away to -dry. Before applying the paint, wash -the horn out well with soap and warm -water and dry well. The above gives -a beautiful flesh color, which will last -<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>for years, especially when filled with -plaster paris.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TO REMOTE PLASTER PARIS FROM A HORN AND TO MAKE THE HORN ROUND.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>After the plaster paris has become -thoroughly dry it is very hard; therefore -to cut it out with a chisel is very -tedious; but it often has to be done. -If the inside of the horn is smooth -and a little tapering, it is very easy to -remove by boiling it until the horn expands -or becomes soft; then tap the -horn with a smooth stick or hammer, -and the plaster will drop out in a -whole piece. If you have put a rivet -through the horn before putting in the -plaster paris it is more difficult to remove, -as the rivet holds the plaster -firmly in the horn. In such a case take -a chisel and dig out the plaster paris -down to the rivet, then either cut the -rivet with the chisel or file it in two -<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>and take it out; then proceed as above -directed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To make the butt of a horn round, -put the horn in boiling water; let it remain -about ten minutes; have a round -wooden plug ready, which should be -wedge shaped; drive this in the horn -while hot, and let it cool; afterwards -remove the plug, and the horn will remain -round. This makes quite a difference -in the appearance of the horn -where you wish to use it for a hat rack, -footstool, etc.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TO DRESS DEER HORNS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Make an extra strong lye, using the -granulated lye and hot water, say one -tablespoonful of lye to half pint of hot -water. Give the whole horn a thorough -bath in the mixture, and let it set -about one hour; then take a stiff brush -and give the horns a thorough washing; -this cuts off all the dirt that has accumulated -in the rough knotty parts. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>horns should now be put in a barrel of -water and let soak a day or two, to -take off all the lye, then wash well -using a stiff brush. Now take an old -hand-saw and cut down through the -skull, commencing one inch back of -the horns and coming out at the eye -sockets, being careful to saw straight -through, so that when placed on a -board they will set level. Take a two-inch -pine block as wide as the skull and -three inches longer, round off the top -and bottom ends to suit the shape ox -the skull, place the horns on the block, -holding them there with the hands. -Put it up against the wall and if the -horns pitch too far forward take down -and cut off from the front of the board, -sloping it backwards until the horns -hang at a proper pitch. Now drill -about four holes through the skull, and -screw the skull fast to the board. Take -a dozen or more shingle nails and drive -in the front of board an inch or more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>apart, leaving the heads sticking out. -These are to hold the plaster paris, -which is put on to level up before putting -on the covering. After the nails -are all in, mix some plaster paris and -pour over the skull and around the -edges to round it up in shape for the -covering. After the plaster paris is -partially hardened, smooth it by scraping -down the high places, then let it -dry. Take a piece of strong unbleached -muslin large enough to stretch over the -skull and board, tack the muslin on the -back part of the skull board, then draw -it down between the horns and tack it -to the under side of the board at the -lower end, drawing very tight; now -commence at the edge of the muslin -and cut straight in to the inner side -of horns, round out a little for the horn, -and proceed to draw it all down tight, -and tack it on the under side of the -block, being careful not to make any -wrinkles in the covering; trim it off to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>the tacks on the under side. (Some -prefer to have the muslin wet while -putting it on.) We are now ready for -the outer covering, which should be -plush or velvet, and is put on in the -same way as the first covering. It requires -some skill to make a smooth job -of the first; yet by going slow, any one -should do a fair job. Next make a -board to screw on the back of this, -which should be made in diamond shape -or rounding on both ends, and about -six inches longer and one inch wider -than the skull board; this should be -made of walnut and nicely varnished; -after it has thoroughly dried fasten it -tight to skull board with screws, counter-sinking -their heads. Bore one hole -at each end of the base board and -counter-sink them; then screw it to the -wall. Varnish the rough part of the -horns and let them dry; then take some -chenille or tinsel cord to trim around -the butt of the horns and around the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>back part or edge of the skull board. -Tack it on with upholstering tacks. -Cow horns and sheep horns are mounted -in the same manner. The sheep horns -should be cleaned with the lye, as directed -for the deer horns, but no scraping -or polishing is necessary; they look -better rough. The cow horns should -be polished, as directed on page <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, -before they are put on the board. No -polished horn should be varnished.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>POLISHING HOOFS OF VARIOUS KINDS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>The cow hoof takes a high polish, -and a number of useful articles can be -made of them—which are not only -useful, but quite a novelty. Take a -pair of cow hoofs, which are neither -bruised nor scaled, rasp them down in -good shape, then scrape, sand-paper -and polish the same as directed in polishing -horns. The hoofs should be -good matches, and both from the same -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>foot. Bore or drill two holes in one -of them on the inner side, about one-half -inch apart, and place the two -hoofs side by side on a level board, -seeing that the toes are even with each -other. Take a piece of wire or an awl -and put through the holes in the hoof -and mark the place to make the holes -on the other, so that when they are -wired together they will set even with -each other. Drill small holes around -the tops, say a quarter of an inch apart; -take a piece of malleable wire of sufficient -size and draw it through the -holes in the sides of the hoofs, drawing -them firmly together, and twist the -ends of the wire together; this will -hold them in place. Bind the upper -edge of hoofs with piece of cloth, sewing -through the holes drilled for that -purpose. Stuff each hoof with tow or -moss, and stuff with any goods to suit -your fancy, silk plush, velvet, etc. -Put the filling in tight and let it come -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>above the level of hoof to make the -cover rounding, then drawn down tight. -Draw the edges of the cover down and -sew them with a strong thread to the -binding. Take a piece of fancy cord -or ribbon and tack it around the edge -of the cover and you have a fancy pin -cushion. To make a match safe or -tooth-pick case, polish the hoofs, wire -together, and drill the holes around the -edge as before; then take some glue -and spread it well over the inside of -each hoof; cut some red flannel to fit -the inside and press it in with your fingers -until it is all smooth; cut it off at -the edge of top of hoof, and bind the -edges with ribbon. This makes a very -pretty match safe or tooth-pick case. -All hoofs are polished in the same manner. -Should the hoofs not set level -after they are put together, take a -coarse piece of sand-paper and tack or -hold it on a level board, set the bottom -of the hoofs on it and rub round and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>round until they do set level. It -would be best to attend to this as soon -as they are fastened together.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE XIII.<br /> ACORNS, TIPS FOR HORNS, ETC.</h3> - -<div class='figcenter id019'> -<img src='images/i115.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c005'>A nickel-plated acorn, as -shown in the accompanying -cut, makes a very fine finish -on the point of a polished -horn. B is a wire stem attached -to the acorn, and is -intended for fastening it to the horn. -They are made as follows: If made of -metal, they are cast on the stem and -then turned. If brass, they are polished; -but if iron, turned and then -bronzed, painted or nickel-plated. If -made of horn, first put in the stem and -then turn and polish them. To put -them on the horn, saw off the point of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>the horn, drill a hole in the end of -same, the size of the stem, put a little -glue in the hole and drive the stem in -tight. The horn should be polished -before putting the knob on. Round -knobs are also very nice, put on in the -same way. This way of putting them -on is much better and easier than the -old way of screwing them on.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>ARTICLE XIV.<br /> RECEIPTS FOR VARIOUS PREPARATIONS USED IN THE PRESERVATION AND SETTING UP OF ANIMALS, FOWLS, ETC.</h3> -<h4 class='c013'>SOLUTION OF CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE.</h4> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Corrosive sublimate</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>teaspoonful</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Mix and let stand twelve hours, and -it is ready for use.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span> - <h4 class='c013'>ARSENICAL SOAP.</h4> -</div> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Arsenic in powder</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>pounds</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Salts of tartar</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Camphor gum</td> - <td class='c009'>6 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Cocoanut oil soap</td> - <td class='c009'>1½</td> - <td class='c010'>pounds</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Powdered lime</td> - <td class='c009'>5 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Cut the soap up fine and put it in a -kettle containing one gallon of soft -water and boil until the soap is well -dissolved, then add the lime, salts of -tartar and arsenic, stirring the mixture -thoroughly; put the gum camphor in a -half pint of alcohol and place in a mortar -and crush it; take the kettle off the -fire and add the camphor; mix well, and -when partly cooled put it in fruit jars -and seal up. It is now ready for use, -and great care should be taken in using -it, as it is a deadly poison.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>PRESERVING POWDER.</h4> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Arsenic in powder</td> - <td class='c009'>2 </td> - <td class='c010'>pounds</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alum in powder</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Mix thoroughly and keep in a dry -place. This is also very poisonous.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span> - <h4 class='c013'>CARBOLIC ACID.</h4> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The following solution of carbolic -acid and water I have found very good -in preserving skins, bugs, etc.:</p> - -<table class='table0' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Carbolic acid</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Soft water</td> - <td class='c009'>2 </td> - <td class='c010'>quarts</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Turpentine is also a good preservative, -and is sometimes used in place of -corrosive sublimate.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>THINGS WORTH REMEMBERING.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Never attempt to dress a bird when -its feathers are broken or badly blood -stained, unless it is a rare specimen.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never dress a bird after the feathers -begin to slip.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never dress an animal after the hair -begins to slip.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never let a hide get dry before applying -the preserving powder.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never stretch a hide out of shape -while taking it off.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never forget to stop all wounds and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>the mouth and nostrils with cotton as -soon as you kill the specimen.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never let a specimen get dry after -stuffing it before shaping and setting it -up.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never inhale the preserving powder, -or get it in cuts or sores, for it is a -deadly poison.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never be afraid of putting too much -of the preserving powder on a hide.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Never be afraid of charging a good -price for a well dressed specimen.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Always use the best material, such -as eyes, tow, cotton, wire, etc.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Always try to improve on each specimen -you dress that you may excel -others in the art.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TANNING HIDES WITH HAIR ON.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Very little has ever been written in -regard to tanning skins with the hair -on. Indeed we may say there is scarcely -any literature on the subject, and this -article must necessarily be very brief. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>Tanning with the hair on is always -somewhat difficult, but of course, some -hides are more difficult to tan than -others. As an average, I will here give -directions for tanning a dog hide. The -same process obtains in the tanning of -other hides. The only difference being -in the length of time required which -must be regulated to suit each case. -We will start with the skin on the -dog's back, and hence the first operation -will be the skinning process. To -begin, make an incision from middle -of under lip back along the median line -to the tip of the tail. Then make an -incision from the middle of each foot -along the inner side of the leg to the -median line, and proceed to skin, being -careful not to cut holes in the hide, and -at the same time to leave no flesh sticking -to the skin.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When skinning the head cut the -gristle of the ear back close to the -skull and separate the skin as near out -<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>to the point of the ear as possible. -Unless this skin is separated, it is difficult -to tan the ears without losing the -hair, especially in warm weather. Be -very careful not to cut the eyelids; -skin on over the nose and cut loose -from the body.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Then go over the pelt and remove -every particle of flesh which may have -been left on the skin, and be especially -careful around the nose and mouth. -All the bones of the feet should be -removed except the bones of the toes. -Next bathe the nose, ears, feet and -tail with the preserving fluids used in -taxidermy. If you have none of the -fluid, use plenty of arsenic and alum, -and then stretch the hide on a floor -with the hair side down and tack all -the parts so that they will be stretched -perfectly smooth, after which salt all -over thoroughly. Let it remain until -perfectly dry, and then take a piece of -coarse sand-paper and rub it down -<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>smooth and clear of any remaining -vestige of fleshy particles.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Or instead of the preceding modus -operandi, remove the pelt from the -floor when about dry, and lay it on a -fleshing beam and with a fleshing knife -scrape off all remaining flesh and -grease. Should there be grease that -cannot be removed with fleshing knife, -tack hide back on the floor and spread -about three gallons of sawdust over it -and rub thoroughly. Clean the skin -and cover again with salt, and when -dry sand-paper as directed above. Next -place in warm water to soften it, and -when soft wash it thoroughly with -soap. Then rinse and wring it, and put -it into the following liquid which -should be contained in a wooden vessel. -The liquid consists of one gallon of -soft warm water, one-half ounce of -commercial sulphuric acid, and one-third -of a pound of corn starch. After -compounding, this liquid should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>stirred about ten minutes before the -skin is introduced. When the pelt is -put in, it should be pressed well under, -and stirred with a wooden paddle for -thirty minutes or until it begins to -thicken and turn a dark reddish color. -Then take it out and hang it up, and let -it drain about thirty minutes, after -which put it into a weak lye made -either from wood ashes or from concentrated -lye which may be bought in -any grocery store; strain the liquid before -putting the hide in. Stir the hide -in this lye about thirty minutes again, -or until you are satisfied the lye has -had time to neutralize the acid from -the preceding bath. The object of this -latter bath is to counteract the acid effect -of the former. Take out of the lye and -hang up and let it drain about one -hour, and then give it a thorough washing -on a wash-board with plenty of -soap and warm water. Rinse perfectly -clean and again hang up to drain. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>When the hair is nearly dry, tack it -again on the floor taking care to stretch -it into proper shape. When partly dry -take it up and rub and pull it until -soft, which completes the tanning. We -are then ready to place the skull in -position. After skinning the head, -remove the brains and eyeballs, and -then boil the skull until all the flesh -can be scraped from the bones. The -skull being ready, fill the eye sockets -with plaster paris made with water into -the consistency of a plaster, and then -set in a pair of suitable glass eyes, being -careful to so adjust them as to give -them the appearance of natural eyes.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The under jaw should be wired to -the upper, or bound securely to it by a -small cord or wire. Saw the skull and -back corners of under jaw off, so that -when the sawed surface is fastened -down flat on a board, the nose will be -somewhat elevated from the floor, -while the back part of the skull will -<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>lie on the floor. Fasten the skull to -the small boards with wire, and then -stretch the skin over it. Soak only the -skin of the head in water, and sew up -the mouth by drawing the lower lips -up under the upper in the natural way. -The skin should be inside out while the -lips are being sewed. If in the process -of skinning you have cut the skin clear -out through the lip, it must be sewed -together far enough to inclose the skull -and the under board, which should not -extend more than two inches back of -the skull. Build out the end of the -nose with plaster paris to make it natural -shape and draw the skin over the -skull. Be very careful to have the -nose and eyes all right. Tack the skin -to the under side of the board which -should in width correspond to the thickness -of the dog's neck. The edges of -the neck skin should be sutured together -under the board and tacked to -it. Cut the skin, which is lapped under, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>following the line of back end of -board out to the side edges of the -board. Turn this flap out and sew the -underlying end to the upper skin, or to -the skin of back of neck, and close to -the back end of board; this brings the -skin on a level of under side of board; -now round off the turned out flap so as -to conform with the line of the neck -and fore legs; the head will now need -some stuffing to round it up in proper -shape. Take some cotton and put it -in through the ears with a wire, placing -it where needed to give the head -a proper shape; arrange the skin around -the eyes, nose and mouth; then let dry -before lining. Put a good supply of -the alcohol and corrosive sublimate on -the ears, nose and lips, as soon as head -is dressed. Now for the lining, procure -a sufficient amount of felt to line -it, say of a dark green color; then get -enough to make a strip one and a half -inches wide and long enough to go -<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>around the edge of hide; this should -be an orange color.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Take this strip and pink one edge of -it, then baste the lining on to skin -letting the edges of it project about -two inches out from edge of hide. -Now comb the hair around the edges of -hide back towards the center of same. -Then take the pinked strip and lay it -on the hair side of skin, the smooth -edge along the edge of the hide and -the pinked edge laying back on the -hair; then sew the pinked strip, lining -and hide together, running close to -the edge of hide. Now turn the pinked -strip out on to the projecting lining -and sew another seam around just out -side of the hide, thus sewing the lining -and the pinked strip together. Now -pink the out edge of lining to suit -your taste; then take some yarn or -zephyr and knot the lining and hide -together, the same as in knotting a -comfort, and the job is complete.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>To make a robe sew a number of -hides together and line them, simply -binding the edge with a straight strip.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TO SOFTEN HIDES.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Where a hide has become hard by -getting wet, or from some other cause -after tanning, wet it on flesh side with -water and hang up. When partly dry -give it a thorough rubbing. If that -fails to soften it, oil it with Neatsfoot -oil and rub it in well.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TO CLEAN RUGS AND FURS.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>When rugs and furs become dirty -from use take hardwood sawdust, dampen -it and rub well into hide. Shake -out and repeat until clean.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>TO KILL MOTHS IN FURS, ETC.</h4> - -<p class='c007'>Sprinkle them well with arsenic -shaking it well down on hide. Tie up -and lay away for a few days. Then -dust all the arsenic out and clean with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>the sawdust. In stuffed birds use the -arsenic alone, but handle it with care -for it is a deadly poison.</p> - -<h3 class='c001'>EXTRAS.</h3> -<h4 class='c013'>A FAMILY LINIMENT.</h4> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Alcohol</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Gum Camphor</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Aqua ammonia</td> - <td class='c009'>3 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Oil of Sassafras</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Laudanum</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Mix.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Wishing to use the above for neuralgia -or rheumatism, add to three -ounces of the preparation 4 grains -menthol (in crystals).</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span> - <h4 class='c013'>FIVE DAY CORN OR WART CURE.</h4> -</div> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Cannabis</td> - <td class='c009'>5 </td> - <td class='c010'>grains</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Salicylic Acid</td> - <td class='c009'>29 </td> - <td class='c010'>grains</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Collodion</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Caster Oil</td> - <td class='c009'>10 </td> - <td class='c010'>drops</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Directions:</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mix thoroughly, and before applying -dampen the corn or wart with -turpentine; then apply, being careful -not to get the preparation on the sound -flesh. Repeat this every night before -going to bed for five successive nights. -Now bind a slice of lemon on excrescence, -let it remain one hour, and then wash -and scrape off corn or wart. You may of -course repeat as often as necessary, or -until excrescence is entirely removed.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>FURNITURE POLISH.</h4> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Turpentine</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Yellow lubricating oil</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Muriatic acid</td> - <td class='c009'>1 </td> - <td class='c010'>ounce</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Directions:</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>Mix and let stand two days, and -then apply with a sponge after which -thoroughly dry with a woolen cloth.</p> - -<h4 class='c013'>WHITE CEMENT.</h4> - -<table class='table1' summary='Formula'> -<colgroup> -<col width='78%' /> -<col width='5%' /> -<col width='15%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Best white glue</td> - <td class='c009'>½</td> - <td class='c010'>pound</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c008'>Soft water</td> - <td class='c009'>2½</td> - <td class='c010'>pints</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c000'>Directions:</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mix and heat over a slow fire until -dissolved; then stir in 4 ounces dry -white lead, ¼ pint alcohol, and 1 ounce -aqua ammonia.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span> - <h2 class='c004'>INDEX.</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table2' summary='INDEX.'> - <tr> - <th class='c014'></th> - <th class='c015'>PAGES.</th> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Barbers' Itch,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_23'>23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Black Heads,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Bleaching for the Hair,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Brilliantine,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_20'>20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Camphor Ice,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Engraving Fluid,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_20'>20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Face Whitenings,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_23'>23</a>-<a href='#Page_32'>32</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Four Face and Hand Creams,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_12'>12</a>-<a href='#Page_15'>15</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Glass Hone,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_30'>30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Hair Dyes,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a>-<a href='#Page_10'>10</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Hair Oils and Pomades,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a>-<a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Menthol Salve,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_17'>17</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Mugs, Brushes and Soap,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_31'>31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Quinine Hair Tonics and Sea Foam,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_11'>11</a>-<a href='#Page_20'>20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Shampoos,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_17'>17</a>-<a href='#Page_19'>19</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Shower-Bath and Shampoo Can,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_32'>32</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Suggestions to Beginners,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_35'>35</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>To Stop Blood,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_29'>29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Towels and Hair Cloths,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<h3 class='c006'>TAXIDERMY.</h3> - -<table class='table3' summary='TAXIDERMY'> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>I.,</td> - <td class='c014'>On Skinning and Dressing Birds</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>II.,</td> - <td class='c014'>On Skinning and Dressing Animals</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_63'>63</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>III.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Fish Dressing</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>IV.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Hunting Specimens and care of same</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_77'>77</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>V. and VI.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Wood and Wire Frames</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_79'>79</a>-<a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>VII.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Dressing Moles, etc.</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_82'>82</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>VIII.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Dressing Turtles</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_84'>84</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>IX.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Killing and Dressing Snakes</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_89'>89</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>X.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Dressing Alligators</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_92'>92</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>XI.,</td> - <td class='c014'>On Making Footstools, etc.</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_94'>94</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>XII.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Polishing Horns, etc.</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_102'>102</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>XIII.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Tips for Horns, etc.</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_113'>113</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'>Article</td> - <td class='c009'>XIV.,</td> - <td class='c014'>Recipes for Preserving Preparations,</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_114'>114</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014'> </td> - <td class='c009'> </td> - <td class='c014'>Tanning Hides, etc.</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_117'>117</a>-126</td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c014' colspan='3'>Extra Formulas</td> - <td class='c015'><a href='#Page_127'>127</a>-129</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='tnotes'> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c004'>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h2> -</div> - <ol class='ol_1 c002'> - <li>Silently corrected typographical errors. - - </li> - <li>Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed. - </li> - </ol> - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Barbers' Manual (Part 1), Text Book on -Taxidermy (Part 2), by T. J. McConnaughay - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BARBER'S MANUAL, TEXT BOOK TAXIDERMY *** - -***** This file should be named 52850-h.htm or 52850-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/8/5/52850/ - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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