diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/52835-h/52835-h.htm')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/52835-h/52835-h.htm | 4243 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 4243 deletions
diff --git a/old/52835-h/52835-h.htm b/old/52835-h/52835-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index b987c48..0000000 --- a/old/52835-h/52835-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4243 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> - <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Art of Lead Burning, by C. H. Fay</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - body { margin-left: 8%; margin-right: 10%; } - h1 { text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: xx-large; } - h2 { text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: x-large; } - h3 { text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: large; } - .pageno { right: 1%; font-size: x-small; background-color: inherit; color: silver; - text-indent: 0em; text-align: right; position: absolute; - border: thin solid silver; padding: .1em .2em; font-style: normal; - font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; } - p { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; text-align: justify; } - .sc { font-variant: small-caps; } - .large { font-size: large; } - .xlarge { font-size: x-large; } - .index li {text-indent: -1em; padding-left: 1em; } - .index ul {list-style-type: none; padding-left: 0; } - ul.index {list-style-type: none; padding-left: 0; } - ol.ol_1 {padding-left: 0; margin-left: 2.78%; margin-top: .5em; - margin-bottom: .5em; list-style-type: decimal; } - .chapter { clear: both; page-break-before: always; } - .figcenter { clear: both; max-width: 100%; margin: 2em auto; text-align: center; } - div.figcenter p { text-align: center; text-indent: 0; } - .figcenter img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; } - .id001 { width:600px; } - .id002 { width:511px; } - .id003 { width:453px; } - .id004 { width:427px; } - .id005 { width:462px; } - .id006 { width:547px; } - .id007 { width:572px; } - .id008 { width:240px; } - .id009 { width:550px; } - .id010 { width:498px; } - .id011 { width:596px; } - .id012 { width:392px; } - @media handheld { .id001 { margin-left:12%; width:75%; } } - @media handheld { .id002 { margin-left:18%; width:63%; } } - @media handheld { .id003 { margin-left:22%; width:56%; } } - @media handheld { .id004 { margin-left:23%; width:53%; } } - @media handheld { .id005 { margin-left:21%; width:57%; } } - @media handheld { .id006 { margin-left:16%; width:68%; } } - @media handheld { .id007 { margin-left:14%; width:71%; } } - @media handheld { .id008 { margin-left:35%; width:30%; } } - @media handheld { .id009 { margin-left:16%; width:68%; } } - @media handheld { .id010 { margin-left:19%; width:62%; } } - @media handheld { .id011 { margin-left:13%; width:74%; } } - @media handheld { .id012 { margin-left:25%; width:49%; } } - .ic001 { width:100%; } - .ig001 { width:100%; } - .table0 { margin: auto; margin-top: 2em; } - .table1 { margin: auto; width: 50%; } - .nf-center { text-align: center; } - .nf-center-c1 { text-align: left; margin: 1em 0; } - .c000 { margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c001 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 4em; } - .c002 { margin-top: 2em; } - .c003 { margin-top: 1em; } - .c004 { margin-top: 4em; } - .c005 { page-break-before:auto; margin-top: 4em; } - .c006 { margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c007 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; padding-right: 1em; } - .c008 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; padding-right: 1em; } - .c009 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; } - .c010 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 2em; } - .c011 { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c012 { font-size: 90%; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c013 { vertical-align: top; text-align: center; padding-right: 1em; } - .c014 { margin-top: .5em; } - div.tnotes { padding-left:1em;padding-right:1em;background-color:#E3E4FA; - border:1px solid silver; margin:2em 10% 0 10%; } - .covernote { visibility: hidden; display: none; } - div.tnotes p { text-align:left; } - @media handheld { .covernote { visibility: visible; display: block;} } - .footnote {font-size: 90%; } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Art of Lead Burning, by C. H. Fay - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Art of Lead Burning - A practical treatise explaining the apparatus and processes. - -Author: C. H. Fay - -Release Date: August 18, 2016 [EBook #52835] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF LEAD BURNING *** - - - - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, Chris Curnow and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='tnotes covernote'> - -<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber's Note:</strong></p> - -<p class='c000'>The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> - -</div> - -<div> - <h1 class='c001'>The Art of Lead Burning<br /> <br /> <span class='xlarge'><em>A PRACTICAL TREATISE EXPLAINING THE APPARATUS AND PROCESSES.</em><br /> <em>52 ILLUSTRATIONS.</em></span></h1> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='xlarge'>By C. H. FAY</span></div> - <div class='c003'>Reprinted from</div> - <div><em>The Metal Worker, Plumber and Steam Fitter</em>.</div> - <div class='c003'><span class='sc'>Published by</span></div> - <div><span class='large'>DAVID WILLIAMS COMPANY,</span></div> - <div>232-238 William St., New York,</div> - <div>1905.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c004'> - <div>Copyrighted, 1905.</div> - <div class='c003'>By</div> - <div class='c003'>David Williams Company.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>PREFACE.</h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The mystery which has always surrounded -the work of the lead burner, like that of all other -handicrafts outside of ordinary occupations, dissolves -under the light of a full knowledge of -the causes and effects that have a bearing upon -it. While different works have treated on lead -burning, it is the object of this special treatise -to explain fully in detail every part of the apparatus -and fixtures in common use, as well as their -application, so that the careful reader may understand -and acquire the art of lead burning by -observing scrupulously the rules laid down and -devoting sufficient time to practice to master it. -This instruction, given by text and illustration, -is only presented after the dangerous power of -hydrogen gas when misused is thoroughly impressed -on the reader. It would be well for all -who hope to become lead burners to devote several -evenings, with an interval between, to a -thorough study of the chapters on hydrogen gas -and its properties before taking any further -steps. To those who have not had previous experience -with chemicals and gases this preliminary -study is indispensable for their own safety, -for the successful operation of the apparatus and -to insure satisfactory work. When fully familiar -with the properties of hydrogen gas and the -necessity of being careful when it is used little -difficulty will be experienced in acquiring a full -knowledge of the apparatus and fixtures. The -art of burning the lead can only be acquired by -practice, and either quickly or slowly, as the operator -may be quick and skillful in acquiring any -handicraft. In addition to describing what has -been common practice for many years, the treatise -contains a description of a new machine and -burner which has only recently become available -to lead burners. It also describes the method of -lead burning with the use of illuminating gas and -a soldering flux. A chapter is devoted to soft soldering -and Britannia metal work, which is -largely used in the equipment of bars and restaurants, -the various joints being more easily -made with a blow pipe than by any other method. -As the workman who hopes to profit by reading -this book can by a little negligence make a great -deal of trouble for himself and others, caution -and great care are advised whenever he is at -work.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>CONTENTS.</h2> -</div> - -<table class='table0' summary='CONTENTS'> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='sc'>Chapter.</span></td> - <td class='c008'> </td> - <td class='c009'><span class='sc'>Page.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>I.</td> - <td class='c008'>Introduction</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>II.</td> - <td class='c008'>The Apparatus</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_15'>15</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>III.</td> - <td class='c008'>Hydrogen Gas</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>IV.</td> - <td class='c008'>The Construction of the Generator</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>V.</td> - <td class='c008'>Making the Gas to Burn the Generator</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_39'>39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>VI.</td> - <td class='c008'>Connecting the Apparatus</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>VII.</td> - <td class='c008'>Charging the Generator</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>VIII.</td> - <td class='c008'>The Flame and Its Management</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>IX.</td> - <td class='c008'>The Different Kinds of Seams</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_80'>80</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>X.</td> - <td class='c008'>Pipe Seams</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>XI.</td> - <td class='c008'>Acid Chamber Work</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_108'>108</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>XII.</td> - <td class='c008'>Special Hydrogen Apparatus and Burner</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_119'>119</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>XIII.</td> - <td class='c008'>Soft Soldering with the Mouth Blow Pipe</td> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_127'>127</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER I.<br /> <br /> <span class='large'>INTRODUCTION.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>In compiling a treatise on the subject of lead -burning too much stress cannot be laid upon the -fact that the greatest care must be taken to -observe the smallest details and to follow carefully -every suggestion in regard to safety. I am -aware of the responsibility resting upon me in -placing this article into hundreds of hands, comparatively -ignorant of the danger involved in -handling so much hydrogen, without thoroughly -instructing them in detail as to its use. I may -be excused, therefore, if, for that reason, some -of the explanations are so simple as to seem -ridiculous; but my aim is to present to the trade -a treatise that can be relied upon to be free from -theory that has not been thoroughly tried and -tested, so that the beginner can be sure that, if -he follows directions as printed, nothing but satisfaction -to him can result.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Study the Chapter on Hydrogen Gas.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>I cannot too strongly recommend that the -beginner study the chapter on hydrogen gas -until the main points are memorized and clearly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>understood. The experiments should be performed -and the result carefully noted for future -reference before attempting to use the generator. -It is time well spent to master the technical parts -thoroughly before attempting the mechanical -part. Then when a man takes up the mechanical -he will do so with an intelligent understanding -of what he is doing, and any little trouble -which may then arise can be quickly overcome.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Another thing to be observed is to avoid nervousness. -A nervous person cannot do this work -with any degree of satisfaction, as it requires a -cool head and a steady hand and a vast amount -of patience to burn the upright and inverted -seams.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Lead Burning Explained.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Lead burning is the process of fusing two -pieces of lead together without the use of solder. -The process consists in melting the edges together, -a drop at a time, and when done with -hydrogen gas and the blow pipe is called the -“autogenous process.” Lead can be fused with -gasoline or illuminating gas by the use of the -compound blow pipe; but, as ordinary gases give -an oxidizing flame and require a flux, it is not -considered a practical method.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span> -<img src='images/i_011.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 1.—Lead Burning Apparatus.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>Lead is used extensively in lining tanks made -to contain pickle dips, hot cyanide solution, storage -batteries, acid tanks for manufacturing jewelry -and water closet tanks, as water in many -cases contains large quantities of lime and other -deposits which rapidly destroy the solder used -on copper linings. Tanks used for the above purposes -must be lined with lead and the seams -burned, as acids attack the tin in solders and -destroy them. The demand for the work is rapidly -increasing where it is introduced. I have -demonstrated to many manufacturers that this is -the cheapest method known, as it gives a permanent -solution of the problem how to keep a chemical -tank tight.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Method of Making Lead Lined Tanks.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The most common method resorted to in -many large factories is to make the tanks out of -very heavy cypress lumber, free from any knots -or blemishes. The joints are carefully dovetailed -and fitted together, and long bolts are used to -draw the joints and keep them from leaking. -Usually it takes from three to four days to complete -one small tank, only to have it leak in a few -months; whereas the same tank can be built in a -few hours of any cheap lumber, and then, when -it is lined with lead of a proper thickness and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>seams burned it will usually last for an indefinite -period, thereby saving floors and, many times, -costly plating solutions.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The most common argument put forth by -manufacturers is that the bottoms of lead lined -tanks are soon cut out, owing to dropping sharp -pieces of metal into them. This difficulty can be -best overcome by placing a slatted bottom of -wood in the tank, holding the same in place with -strips of sheet lead, one end of which has been -previously burned to the bottom of the tank. -These strips are to be brought up through the -slats and then bent over the top of them. This -will keep the wood from floating, and is the only -practical way to do it, as the false bottoms soon -decay, and can be easily removed and replaced -by simply bending back the strips of lead.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>General Remarks.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Soft solder, as referred to here, means solder -that melts at a temperature of 300 degrees -or less, and is so called because of the low heat -required to fuse the solder. It is used almost -exclusively on the quick melting metals and compositions, -such as block tin pipes and Britannia -metal. It is also used by pattern makers in soldering -white metal, as it requires but very little -<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>heat to sweat it through heavy articles. It should -not be used to join any pipes which convey hot -water or other hot liquids, as it is readily acted -upon and destroyed. (The composition of these -solders is explained in a special chapter.)</p> - -<p class='c000'>The chapters on blow pipe work, also on bar -work, will alone turn many dollars into the pockets -of the plumbers who have courage and ambition -to acquire this line of work. Many times -small leaks occur in difficult places that can be -readily repaired by the use of the blow pipe and -a common candle.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The lining of bars with Britannia metal is -coming more and more into general practice, and -it usually requires a specialist in this line to do -the work. The soldering of this metal with a -blow pipe and an alcohol torch is an easy matter, -and is described in a special chapter.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There is no reason why this work should not -be done by a plumber, particularly in small cities -and towns, and to aid such as have not had the -opportunity to familiarize themselves with such -work I append such diagrams as may seem useful -and necessary.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER II.<br /> <span class='large'>THE APPARATUS.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The apparatus used for lead burning is illustrated -in Fig. 1. It consists of a gas generator, -A; an air holder, B, and pump, C; mixing fork, <em>e</em>, -and necessary cocks, <em>f</em> and <em>g</em>; combined scrubbing -cup and fire trap, <em>h</em>; blow pipe and tips, <em>i</em>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The generator consists of an acid chamber, <em>j</em>, -and a gas chamber, <em>k</em>. These are connected with -an acid supply pipe, <em>l</em>, which conducts the acid -from the acid chamber to the gas chamber, and -also serves as a balance pipe.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This feature makes the generator automatic -in its action, for as soon as the gas in the gas -chamber gets up sufficient pressure, the acid in -the gas chamber <em>k</em> is driven slowly back through -the acid supply pipe <em>l</em> and up into the acid chamber -<em>j</em>, where it is held until gas is used. When -the acid descends and submerges the zinc more -gas is generated, replacing that which has been -used. This form of generator will never blow -acid like the floating generator.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The requirements of a hydrogen generator -for lead burning are that it should be safe, economical -<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>and automatic in its action. It must be -so constructed that it will generate gas enough -to keep the supply constant, and deliver it at sufficient -pressure to keep the flame steady. It must -also be provided with a combination fire trap and -scrubbing cup. This will prevent the explosion -of the generator by firing the gas in the hose. -This trap must be partly filled with a solution of -blue vitriol to act as a precipitation cup. (This -is treated under the head of “Scrubbing Cup.”)</p> - -<p class='c000'>The chief danger with an apparatus of this -sort is its liability to accident by the careless use -of the gas, and, as a mixture of hydrogen and air -is very explosive, great care must be taken to -exhaust all the air in the generator and tubes -before attempting to light the gas at the blow -pipe. The only way to make sure that the air is -exhausted is to test the gas, as described under -the head of “The Flame and Its Management.”</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>A Few Cautions.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>It is a very sensible idea to keep spectators -away from the generator, as they are very apt -to strike matches or tread on the tubes, in spite -of warnings to be cautious, for if there should -be a leak, even so slight as to be hardly detected, -it would cause a violent explosion, and as hydrogen -<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>is both odorless and colorless, this could -easily happen without being noticed. This is -probably the origin of the apparent secrecy with -which a lead burner usually surrounds himself.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If an explosion should occur in the tubes and -they should catch fire, the operator must have -presence of mind enough to reach the gas cock -on the generator and close it. If gas explodes -in the generator, all that can be done is to dodge -the flying pieces and make a new generator. If -such an incident should occur and vitriol should -spatter on the person doing the work, or his assistant, -a solution of bicarbonate of soda or common -washing soda should be at once applied to -the wounds. If that cannot be procured, grease -or oil of some kind should be used without delay, -rubbing it on the spots where the acid burns, and -this will neutralize the acid and so prevent it doing -further damage. There should be no trouble -of this sort in the hands of a careful workman. -The watchword should be, “Test the gas before -using.” If this is done, explosions will never -occur.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER III.<br /> <span class='large'>HYDROGEN GAS.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>This element was discovered by Cavendish in -1766, and was called by him inflammable air. -The name hydrogen is derived from two Greek -words, one signifying “water” and the other -“to generate,” on account of its forming water -when burnt. It occurs in its free state in the -bases of volcanoes, and by the aid of the spectroscope -has been detected in the sun and stars. -It chiefly exists in combination with oxygen as -water, and is an important constituent of all -vegetable and animal substances.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Hydrogen is obtained by the decomposition -of water in various ways. On a large scale, -nearly pure hydrogen may be prepared by passing -steam over charcoal, or coke, heated to a dull -redness. If the temperature be kept sufficiently -low hydrogen and carbon dioxide will be the sole -products, and the latter may be removed by causing -it to traverse a vessel filled with slaked lime, -but if the temperature be allowed to rise too high, -or an excess of air be admitted, carbon monoxide -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>is also produced, and cannot be removed from -the mixture.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Pure hydrogen is a colorless, odorless, transparent -and tasteless gas, and has never been -liquefied. It is very slightly soluble in water. It -is the lightest of all known bodies and is not poisonous, -although it cannot support life, and if -mixed with a certain proportion of oxygen it can -be breathed for a considerable length of time -without inconvenience. It is highly inflammable, -and burns in the air with an almost colorless, nonluminous -flame, forming water. A burning taper -is extinguished when plunged into hydrogen, and -all bodies which burn in the air are incapable of -burning in hydrogen.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Hydrogen does not spontaneously enter into -reaction with any of the elements, although it has -a powerful affinity for several of them. Thus, -when hydrogen and oxygen are mixed nothing -occurs, but if a lighted splint is introduced a violent -explosion ensues, water being produced. -Similarly chlorine and hydrogen are without action -upon each other in the dark, but if the mixture -is exposed to a bright light, or if heated by -the passage of an electric spark, the gases are at -once combined with explosive violence, forming -hydrochloric acid.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>Hydrogen is usually prepared by the action of -zinc or iron on a solution of hydrochloric or sulphuric -acid. All metals which decompose water -when heated readily furnish hydrogen, on treatment -with hydrochloric or sulphuric acid. Many -other metals enter more or less readily (although -none so readily) into reaction with these acids. -Also, many other acids than sulphuric or hydrochloric -acids may be used, but none acts so quickly. -In all cases the action consists of the displacement -of the hydrogen of the acid by the metal employed, -and if the acid is not one which can enter -into reaction with the displaced hydrogen, the -latter is also evolved as gas.</p> - -<p class='c000'>If pure gas is required it is necessary to employ -pure zinc or iron, as the impurities in the -ordinary metal communicate an extremely disagreeable -odor to the gas.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The pure gas is not absolutely essential for -lead burning, and owing to their being much -cheaper, and also on account of their increased -quickness of action, the commercial qualities of -sulphuric acid and zinc are employed in the generator -described.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The commercial zinc is known as spelter and -is sold in pigs or blocks, which are easily broken -into fragments, like stove coal, with a heavy hammer. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>The commercial sulphuric acid is known as -oil of vitriol and is sold by the pound. The acid -cannot be employed in its pure state, but must be -reduced with water in the proportion of one part -of acid to seven parts of warm water. They must -be mixed by adding the acid slowly to the water; -never the water to the acid. The combination of -acid and water enters at once into reaction and -always generates heat, and the result of adding -water to acid would be small explosions. There -would be danger of the acid flying on one's -clothes or into the eyes. The mixture should -never be stronger than six parts of water to one -of acid.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The beginner will observe from the above -that the generator cannot be crowded by making -the acid solution strong. Hydrogen is a peculiar -gas and also a dangerous one for one ignorant -of its peculiarities to experiment with, and in -order to thoroughly understand it the following -experiments should be demonstrated, which can -be done with little expense. The beginner should -note the result of each experiment as demonstrated, -and carefully commit the same to memory -for future reference.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Experiment 1.</h3> - -<p class='c011'><em>Test for Hydrogen.</em>—Fill a small jar or wide -mouthed bottle with hydrogen. This is done by -<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>first filling the bottle with water, inserting the -end of the tube from the hydrogen generator, -having first exhausted the air in the tube, then -quickly inverting the bottle and placing the neck, -Fig. 2, in a pan of water (A); the water will stay -in the bottle. Now turn on the hydrogen. The -gas, being lighter than water, will rise to the top -of the bottle (B), drive out the water, and replace -it with pure hydrogen, which should be free from -air. Remove the bottle from the pan of water, -keeping it inverted. Thrust a lighted splint into -the bottle. The gas will light and burn at the -mouth of the bottle. If the splint is thrust far -into the bottle it will go out. Drops of water collect -in the bottle. Burning is a union with oxygen; -therefore, the burning of the hydrogen -shows that it has an affinity for oxygen. The -splint goes out because the hydrogen does not -support combustion. <em>If no air is allowed to get -into it the gas cannot burn or explode.</em></p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_022.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 2.—Experiment No. 1.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span> - <h3 class='c010'>Experiment 2.</h3> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_023.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 3.—Experiment No. 2.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><em>Proving That Hydrogen is Lighter Than Air.</em>—Bring -an inverted bottle of hydrogen close to -an empty bottle, also inverted, Fig. 2. Gradually -tip the bottle containing hydrogen (A) until it is -brought to an upright position beneath the empty -bottle. Test the bottles for hydrogen. The hydrogen -will be found in the bottle (B) that was -at first empty, proving that <em>hydrogen is lighter -than air</em>, as it has risen in the empty bottle, displacing -the air that was in it. If the bottle of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>hydrogen is left in an upright position without -a cover for a few moments the gas will entirely -disappear.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Experiment 3.</h3> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_024.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 4.—Experiment No. 3.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><em>The Effect of Mixing Hydrogen and Air.</em>—Half -fill a bottle with water and invert it in a pan -of water, Fig. 3, leaving the upper half filled with -air. Displace the air in the bottle with hydrogen, -then thrust a lighted splint into the bottle, and -the gas will light with an explosion. When the -bottle was half filled with water the other half -was air. The hydrogen took the place of the -water, so that the bottle contained equal quantities -of hydrogen and air. When the hydrogen -was lighted it combined with the oxygen in -the air. The union of the two gases caused the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>explosion, proving that the combined gases are -very explosive.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Experiment 4.</h3> - -<p class='c011'><em>To Make Hydrogen From Water.</em>—Drop a -piece of potassium into a little water and cover -it. The potassium floats on the water and soon -burns. Potassium acts vigorously on cold water, -setting free hydrogen, and unites with parts of -it to form “caustic potash.”</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER IV.<br /> <span class='large'>THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GENERATOR.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The construction of the generator is the first -step in the mechanical part of the business, and -to simplify this a complete set of reference drawings -has been constructed and is herewith given. -The assembling of the parts should be clear, with -the assistance of the perspective drawing of the -completed apparatus, and any mechanic of ordinary -ability should be able to construct this generator -without any trouble. The following bill -of material should first be purchased:</p> - -<p class='c012'>One ⅞-inch whitewood board 10 inches wide and 8 feet 6 -inches long.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One ½-inch whitewood board 12 inches wide and 4 feet 6 -inches long.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One piece of 6-pound sheet lead 3 feet wide and 6 feet 6 -inches long.</p> - -<p class='c012'>Three ⅛-inch female hose end gas cocks.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One piece of ⅛-inch brass tubing 2 feet long.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One foot of ¼-inch lead pipe.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One 4-inch charging screw.</p> - -<p class='c012'>One 1¼-inch cleaning screw.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Making the Charging and Cleaning Screws.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>These goods can be readily purchased from -dealers, with the exception of the charging and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>cleaning screws. They can be made in any brass -foundry. The only difference between the charging -and cleaning screws is the size. The charging -screw, Fig. 5, should be at least 4 inches in -diameter, or large enough to pass the hand -through, while the cleaning screw should be 1¼ -inches in diameter, or large enough to pass over -a 1-inch pipe. A piece of sheet lead is fitted into -the cover, as shown at <em>a</em>, to protect the metal from -the acid. Soft putty is used for a packing, as -shown in Fig. 5.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_027.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 5.—The Charging Screw.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The best, although a more expensive, charging -screw is shown in Fig. 6. As will be seen -from the cut, it consists of a base, <em>k</em>; cover, <em>d</em>; -clamp, <em>e</em>, and screw, <em>f</em>. The base is simply a -plain iron or brass ring, 4 inches in diameter, ⅛ -inch thick and 1 inch high. The bottom is to be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>faced smooth, while the top is recessed 3-16 inch -deep to receive the sheet lead and packing of -putty, as at <em>a</em>. Two nubs, <em>b</em> and <em>b</em>, are cast on -opposite sides, as shown, to act as grips for the -clamp <em>c</em>. These nubs are ¾ inch long and project -out from the body of the base ¼ inch, and are -made sufficiently strong to stand the strain of the -screw. The cover <em>d</em> is made of the same material -as the base, the center being raised, as shown, -to give it strength. Cast directly in the center -and on the top is the nub <em>e</em>, ⅝ inch high and ⅝ -inch in diameter. This is drilled to receive the -⅜-inch screw <em>f</em>. A groove 1-16 inch wide and -1-16 inch deep is cut all around the bottom of -the screw, as shown at <em>i</em>. A hole is then drilled -through the side of the nub <em>e</em>, and in line with -the slot <em>i</em>. A pin can then be driven through the -hole and will pass through the slot <em>i</em>, making a -swivel joint that will connect the cover and screw -together. The screw <em>f</em> is made of ⅜-inch round -iron sufficiently long to give an action of about -1 inch. The top at <em>n</em> is filed square to receive a -wheel such as is used on a common gate valve. A -long thread should then be cut on this screw. -The clamp <em>c</em> is made a half circle in shape, so as -to clear the cover with ease. It should be ¾ inch -wide, flat on the under side, while the top side -<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>should have a rib cast on it to prevent springing. -The top at <em>g</em> should be reinforced with metal and -made heavy enough to stand drilling and tapping -to receive the screw <em>f</em>. A wood pattern can be -made for these parts, and they can then be -molded in any brass or iron foundry. In making -the patterns they should be cut down as much -as possible, so as to make the finished article as -light as is consistent with the strength required. -The same directions will answer for the cleaning -screw. The hole to receive the sheet lead -over the cleaning screw should not be over 1½ -inches in diameter, and the rest of the screw -should be made in proportion to this hole. The -advantage of this screw over others is that it -does not wrench the sheet lead in making it up, -and, owing to its construction, it is always sure -to make a tight joint without straining the generator.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_029.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 6.—The Best Charging Screw.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span> - <h3 class='c010'>Building the Frame.</h3> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The frame can be made of galvanized iron, -but wood is much superior, as it retains the heat -generated in the gas chamber much better. To -make the frame take the ⅞-inch board and cut -off two pieces, 10 inches square, A and B in Fig. -8; 5 inches from one side and 2 inches from the -back of one of these pieces bore a 1½-inch hole, -C, and countersink it. This is for the acid supply -pipe to pass through. These pieces are intended -for shelves upon which to rest the acid -and gas chambers. Cut the remaining board into -two pieces 38 inches long. Lay these two boards -together. Five inches from the side and 3 inches -from the bottom bore a 1½-inch hole, <em>d</em>. Then -saw out a V-shaped piece, Fig. 7. This will form -the legs of the generator.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span> -<img src='images/i_031.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 7.—Making the Acid Chamber.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>Take a square, and 12 inches from the top -of these boards draw the lines <em>e</em> and <em>e</em>. Twenty-two -inches below these lines draw the lines <em>f</em> and -<em>f</em>. These lines represent the tops of the shelves. -The shelves should be nailed or screwed into -place. The shelf B should be placed on the top, -keeping the hole C to the back. Take the ½-inch -board and cut two pieces to measure 12 × 13 -inches and two pieces 11 × 12 inches. These -form the sides of the acid and gas chambers. The -two 12 × 13 inch boards form the sides of the -acid chamber and the 11 × 12 inch boards the -sides of the gas chamber.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Directly in the center and 1¾ inches from -the bottom of one of the 11 × 12 inch boards -bore a 1½-inch hole. The remaining piece -should be sawed out, leaving a hole at <em>g</em>. This -is so that the board can be removed in case of a -leak without disturbing the cleaning screw. -These pieces should be fitted to their places with -round head screws, and if properly done will -form an acid chamber which will measure 10 × -10 × 12 inches, and the gas chamber will measure -10 × 10 × 10 inches. The acid chamber must -be larger than the gas chamber, to allow the full -charge of acid to be used without overflowing.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span> -<img src='images/i_033.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 8.—Making the Shelves and the Perforated Bottom.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>Now fit the sheet lead. Six-pound is plenty -heavy for this generator and will last a lifetime. -Cut it as shown in Fig. 8, A and B. Form the -lead so that the seams when finished will come -on the outside, as in case of a leak in a seam it -can then be easily repaired by removing one of the -boards. The projecting edges of lead should be -dressed over the edges of the top to protect the -wood from the acid, but do not fasten them, as -the tanks will have to be removed and the seams -burned.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now cut the piece of lead C to form the top -of the gas chamber. None is needed for the acid -chamber, as it must be left open so that no resistance -will be offered to the action of the gas -on the acid. Five inches from the side and 2 -inches from the back of this piece cut a hole, <em>d</em>, -Fig. 8, 1¼ inches in diameter, and dress it up -with the bending iron to 1½ inches in diameter, -taking care to preserve the thickness of the metal. -This is for the acid supply pipe to pass through.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Three inches from the side and 3 inches from -the front cut a ⅛-inch hole, <em>e</em>. This is the gas -outlet. Three and one-half inches from the opposite -side and 4 inches from the front cut the -hole <em>f</em>, 2¾ inches in diameter. Dress this up and -over the flange of the charging screw <em>a</em>, Fig. 6. -This may seem a difficult thing to do, but lead -must be worked slowly. Heating the lead while -dressing it will help wonderfully. If it is not -possible to make a good job in this manner, then -cut the hole 4 inches in diameter and burn in a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>collar sufficiently big to dress over and cover the -flange of the screw. This is to prevent acid from -coming into contact with the screw and destroying -it. Treat the cleaning screw in the same -manner. The location of this screw is in the -center and as close as possible to the bottom of -the gas chamber, as shown in Fig. 8 at <em>j</em>.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_035.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 8½.—Showing the Perforated Spelter Shelf in Place in the Generator.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>It is necessary to have a false perforated bottom -in the gas chamber to rest the zinc upon and -also to keep it above the solution. To make and -support this bottom take a piece of sheet lead -14 inches square, as shown in Fig. 8, and -form it in the shape of a pan, which will -drop easily into the gas chamber <em>k</em>, Fig. -8½. A piece of 1½ or 2 inch lead pipe, 2 -inches long, <em>n</em>, should be burned on the center -<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>of the false bottom, to prevent the center from -sagging with the weight of zinc. Then punch -the bottom O, Fig. 8, full of ¼-inch holes. A -1½-inch hole, <em>y</em>, should also be cut in line with -the holes for the acid supply pipe.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Remove the tanks and burn the seams. Place -the tanks back in place. Then take a piece of -the ⅛-inch brass pipe, 1½ inches long. Cut a -thread on one end, tin the other end, and burn -it to the top of the gas chamber at <em>e</em>; also the -collar for the charging screw. Then place the -perforated bottom in the gas chamber, taking -care to keep the holes for the acid supply pipe -in line. Do not make any mistake in putting in -this bottom. Its use is to act as a shelf to hold -the zinc, and if put in properly it will hold -the zinc about 2 inches above the real bottom. -The top of the gas chamber <em>c</em> should then be -burned in. Now by measuring find the exact -length of the acid supply pipe, Fig. 7, <em>i</em>. This -pipe should extend from the bottom of the acid -chamber <em>o</em> to the bottom of the gas chamber <em>p</em>, -as shown in Fig. 7. From one end of this pipe -several V-shaped pieces should be cut, <em>p</em>, about -1 inch deep.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This is one of the most particular parts of -the apparatus, as this is where the automatic -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>action comes in, and great care must be taken in -cutting these holes not to have any of them come -closer to the perforated bottom than 1 inch. If -this were not observed the acid would be constantly -in contact with the zinc, and would rapidly -get up pressure of gas sufficient to blow acid -out of the upper tank, and the extra gas would -escape through the acid supply pipe in blows. In -fact, it would make the generator useless. This -is the trouble with the French apparatus. The -acid, having no place to expand in, is constantly -coming into contact with the zinc, and unless the -gas is being used as fast as generated it will -blow acid out of the acid holder, making a bad -mess, besides being very wasteful.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now flange the other end of this pipe to fit -the countersunk bottom of the acid chamber. -Place the pipe in position and burn it to the bottom -of the acid chamber and to the top of the -gas chamber <em>n</em>, Fig. 7. One of the ⅛-inch gas -cocks should be screwed on the brass nipple on -top of the gas chamber. This will complete the -gas generator. It will make a better job if the -back of the generator be boarded tight and a -door made to fit the space between the bottom -of the acid chamber and the top of the gas chamber -in front. It is very convenient to have it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>fixed in this manner, as in shipping it from one -point to another the tubes and other incidentals -can be placed in the space so made and shipped -with safety. There is no objection to the acid -and gas chambers being made in the shape of -cylinders, instead of square, if so desired, but if -made circular they should be made to fit the -frame tightly to prevent jarring and eventually -breaking the seams.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER V.<br /> <span class='large'>MAKING THE GAS TO BURN THE GENERATOR.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>In towns supplied with illuminating gas it is -a comparatively simple operation to burn the lead -lining for the generator, but for the convenience -of those who cannot obtain gas it is necessary -to give some method by which the generator can -be burned. The method described will answer -for illuminating gas as well as for gasoline.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To generate gas from gasoline is a simple -operation. To do this, take a common 1-gallon -oil can, remove the top of can screw and punch a -¼-inch hole in the center of it. Then make a -tube of tin that will pass through this hole, sufficiently -long to extend half way to the bottom and -project 2 inches outside of can screw, and solder -this tube in place. This projecting tube is for -the purpose of connecting to the air holder. Remove -the spout of the can and replace it with one -to which the hose can be connected. Now fill the -can two-thirds full of gasoline, but not full -enough to cover the gas outlet, else it would be -likely to force gasoline out instead of gas.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>After this is done, screw the can screw in -place, the long end of the tube extending into the -gasoline, as shown in <em>j</em>, Fig. 9. A hose connection -is now to be made with an air holder. As it -is necessary to have an air holder both for this -process and the hydrogen gas process, methods -will be described for making air holders which -can be used for either.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_040.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 9.—Gas Apparatus for Burning the Generator.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c010'>Air Holders.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Different lead burners have different views -on this subject. Some prefer the bellows, with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>a contained air holder; some the air holder built -like a gasometer, while others use an air holder -similar to the generator in construction. These -all have their advantages. For my part, I own -and use all three.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The advantage of the bellows is that it can be -easily transported and does the work perfectly, -but it requires constant pumping, which soon -tires the helper, and for that reason could not -be used on jobs requiring more than four or five -hours' labor.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The gasometer style of air holder is the -easiest to use, if one does not employ a helper -and has a large amount of work to do. The -pressure can be regulated to suit the work by -placing one or more weights upon it until the desired -pressure is obtained. It does not require -pumping up more than three or four times a day, -which is its principal virtue. It is a perfect shop -apparatus. Its disadvantage is that it requires -a large quantity of water to fill it, which is not -always available, and when full it is so heavy -that it requires a truck to move it around.</p> - -<p class='c000'>By far the best air holder is the one shown as -part of the apparatus in Fig. 9, and illustrated -separately in Fig. 10. This only requires a few -pails of water to fill it, and the exact pressure of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>the gas can be had by building it the same hight -as the hydrogen gas generator. It does not -require constant pumping, and I recommend -this air holder for general use, as possessing -more advantages, with less trouble, than any -other air holder in use. However, all three will -be described, and the beginner can make the one -most suited to the material available.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Air Holder No. 1.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The beginner will notice in Fig. 10 that this -air holder is so constructed that it gets its air -pressure direct from the head of water, and also -that this pressure can be varied by making the -connecting piece of pipe longer or shorter, as -may be desired. Of course, the pressure will -vary slightly as the water descends into the air -chamber, but not enough to make it objectionable, -as it will be the helper's duty to watch the -water line and renew pumping as often as the -water falls below a certain point.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To make this holder, a tank, <em>a</em>, Fig. 10, 12 -inches high and 18 inches in diameter, should be -constructed of galvanized sheet iron. On this -tank double seam a flat bottom. The top must -be raised slightly, as shown, to give it strength. -This can be done with the raising hammer, or it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>can be done by making the circle for the top ¾ -inch larger than the bottom, then making a cut -to the center. It can then be drawn together and -riveted in any desired pitch. A hole must be -punched in the center of this top large enough to -receive a 1-inch galvanized pipe, <em>b</em>. Six inches -apart and 2 inches from the edge punch two -holes, <em>c</em> and <em>d</em>, large enough to receive pieces of -⅜-inch galvanized pipe. This top should then -be fitted and placed on the body of the tank.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id002'> -<img src='images/i_043.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 10.—Air Holder No. 1.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>Take a piece of 1-inch galvanized pipe, <em>e</em>, -sufficiently long to touch the bottom and projecting -1 inch out of the top of the tank, cut a -thread on the projecting end and drill the other -end full of ¼-inch holes, <em>f</em>, to the hight of 1 inch, -to allow the water to flow freely. This pipe rests -on the bottom of the lower tank and carries the -weight of the upper tank. Solder this pipe in -place. Then take two ⅜-inch nipples, 1 inch -long, and solder them into their places, and on -these nipples screw two ⅜-inch hose end gas -cocks, <em>c</em> and <em>d</em>. One of these cocks is for the purpose -of connecting to the air pump, and the other -to the mixing cock. As close as possible to the -bottom of the tank solder in a ½-inch coupling, -<em>g</em>. Into this coupling screw a plug. This is for -the purpose of draining the tank when out of -use.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now make another tank, <em>h</em>, 19 inches in diameter -and 11 inches deep, the top to be left open -and wired with a heavy wire. Double seam a -flat bottom on this tank. Directly in the center -of this bottom punch a hole large enough to receive -a 1-inch coupling. Then cut a 1-inch coupling -in half and solder it into this hole, putting -<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>the thread side down and leaving it as near flush -with the outside of the tank as possible, so that -if it is desired to move the air holder to and from -a job it can be taken apart and the lower tank -nested in the upper tank, making a compact bundle -and reducing the danger of damage by careless -handling.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To connect these tanks, all that is required is -a piece of 1-inch iron pipe, <em>h</em>, 12 inches long, with -a coupling on one end. To operate this air -holder, close the two air cocks on the lower, or -air, tank; then fill the upper tank nearly full of -water, taking care not to put too much in it, or -it will overflow the lower tank and get into the -tubes, and if this happens the tubes will have to -be removed and hung up to dry, or drops of -water will be blown into the blow pipe and extinguish -the flame. It is then ready for use. The -air in the air chamber is compressed by the -weight of the water in the upper tank, and if the -water line is at the same hight as the acid line in -the hydrogen gas generator the pressure of air -must be the same as the pressure of gas. As air -is used the water descends through the pipe and -will gradually fill the lower chamber. It can then -be forced back into the water chamber by attaching -the air pump to the cock <em>h</em> in Fig. 9, or <em>d</em> in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>Fig. 10, without disturbing the gas or in any way -interfering with the operator. To connect with -the cock <em>h</em> in Fig. 9 it is only necessary to disconnect -one line of hose and connect the pump; -then close the other cock and work the pump until -air bubbles up in the upper tank; then shut the -cock, remove the pump and connect the hose to -the gasoline can, open the cocks and the apparatus -is ready for use.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Air Holder No. 2.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>To make the air holder shown in Fig. 11, take -a sheet of No. 26 gauge galvanized iron 30 inches -wide. Make it into a cylinder 26 inches in diameter, -double seam a flat bottom on it, and wire -the top with ¼-inch iron rod, which will make it -stiff enough to withstand the pressure of water. -Close to the bottom and 3 inches apart punch -two holes, <em>a</em> and <em>b</em>, large enough to receive ⅜-inch -galvanized pipe couplings. Solder these -couplings in place.</p> - -<p class='c000'>On the inside of this tank and into these -couplings screw two pieces of ⅜-inch pipe 4 -inches long with elbows pointing straight up. -Into these elbows screw two pieces of ⅜-inch -pipe long enough to come flush with the top of -the tank F. On the outside of the tank and into -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>the ⅜-inch couplings screw two ⅜-inch nipples -2 inches long, and on these nipples screw -two ⅜-inch hose end gas cocks.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i_047.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 11.—Air Holder No. 2.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>Now, with the same sized sheet iron, make -another tank 2 inches smaller in diameter than -the first tank. This should have a flat bottom, -and be wired as previously described. Then take -four strips of sheet iron 30 inches long and 2 -inches wide, and form each into V shape lengthwise. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>Lay off the circumference of this tank in -four equal spaces. One side of the V-shaped -pieces should then be soldered on at each space. -The other side should be left loose to allow for -adjustment. These pieces form the guides to the -upper tank and prevent it from tipping sideways -and binding. Two of the guides are shown in -the illustration, Fig. 11.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The lower tank should now be filled about -one-third full of water. The upper tank should -then be inverted and placed in it. The air pump -must then be connected to one of the ⅜-inch -cocks with a short piece of hose, and the air -should be pumped into it until the upper tank -rises to its highest level.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The pressure in this form of air holder must -be regulated by weights, and to secure 1 pound -of pressure it is necessary to place weights equal -to 1 pound for every inch in area contained in -the opening in the upper tank. Two drop handles, -such as are used on heavy milk cans, should -be riveted and soldered on the sides of the tank -to facilitate moving it about.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Air Holder No. 3.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 12 is a cut of a bellows with a contained -air holder. It is not practical to try to make -this article, as it can be purchased from any -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>plumbing supply house and is not expensive. It -is used principally by dentists, but it is also used -in laboratories to supply air to the compound -blow pipe. It consists of a small bellows held -from the floor on iron legs, with a spring inside -the bellows to hold them open, and has a rubber -bag fastened to the under side to hold a small -supply of air. The rubber bag is incased in a -string net to prevent it from becoming inflated -too much and bursting. This bag serves -to equalize the pressure. The size known as -No. 10 A will supply 75 cubic feet per hour at a -pressure of 1½ pounds to the square inch, which -is sufficient for lead as heavy as 24 pounds. For -the light weight leads the pressure can be reduced -by pumping lightly and not filling the bag -more than half full.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_049.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 12.—Air Holder No. 3, Combined with Bellows.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>Any of the three described air blast arrangements -will answer the purpose, so it is immaterial -which is used, and it is left to the discretion of -the beginner to obtain whichever is the most convenient.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>The Blow Pipe.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Next comes the blow pipe. The only practical -compound blow pipe on the market is shown -in Fig. 13, and is known as Walmsley's. This is -a modification of the Bunsen burner, and consists -of a bent blow pipe with the air tube in the -center, as shown in Fig. 14. It is a perfect working -blow pipe in every respect, and I should advise -every one interested in the work to purchase -one. For while seams cannot be burned with it -in any other position than horizontal, it will be -found useful in lengthening traps or lead bends, -for which purpose it is well adapted and can be -put into instant use, thereby saving its cost many -times over in wiping solders.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_050.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 13.—The Walmsley Compound Blow Pipe.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span> - <h3 class='c010'>Burning with Illuminating Gas.</h3> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>With illuminating gas it is only necessary to -connect the gas jet to the compound blow pipe -with the hose and regulate the supply of gas with -the gas cock. The air inlet is then connected to -the air holder, or air may be supplied with the -mouth, but good results are not obtained with -the mouth, as only a good blow pipe solderer can -keep up the blast necessary. To burn the seams -use the same flux and follow directions given -for gasoline gas.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_051.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 14.—Sectional View of Walmsley's Blow Pipe.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c010'>Making the Gasoline Gas for Burning the Generator.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>With a piece of ¼-inch hose connect the top -of the can C, Fig. 9, with the air holder D, then -connect the spout or gas outlet <em>e</em> of the can to -the gas end <em>f</em> of the compound blow pipe. The -air outlet <em>g</em> of the compound blow pipe should -then be connected to the remaining cock <em>h</em>, in the -air holder. If the bellows is used, it will be necessary -to connect the air with ¼-inch tee, <em>m</em>, in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>which three short nipples have previously been -screwed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The apparatus is now ready for use. Gasoline -being really a liquid gas, it takes its first -opportunity to assume its natural shape. The -natural way to convert gasoline into gas is by -simple evaporation. So taking advantage of this -fact, the action will be thus: By forcing air into -and through a body of gasoline sufficient of the -gasoline is taken up to form a dense vapor, which -will light and burn at the jet, similar to illuminating -gas. With the admixture of air in the -compound blow pipe, it gives a flame of very intense -heat. But, in common with illuminating -gas, it is so rich in carbon that it gives an oxidizing -flame, and makes it necessary to use a flux, -which should be Yager's soldering salts mixed -as per the directions on the bottle. If this is difficult -to procure, a good substitute can be made -by mixing equal parts of powdered borax and sal -ammoniac in a little water.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To operate this device the air should be -turned on the gasoline and lighted at the jet. -The air should then be admitted gradually until -the flame is brought to the proper size and condition, -indicated by its being blue and pointed. If -too much gas is admitted the flame will be yellow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>and will blacken the work by depositing a -coat of soot on it. If too much air is admitted -the flame will be ragged and noisy, and the temperature -will be too low to heat the metal. The -flame is at its best heat when it burns with a -pale blue color which does not show any yellow -streaks.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Before attempting to burn the generator the -beginner should practice on pieces of sheet lead. -It is next to impossible to burn seams in any -other position than horizontal with this flame, as -it rapidly oxidizes the lead, and in spite of all -precaution the lead will become unmanageable -in upright seams, so that the beginner would -waste time in practicing on seams in any other -position than horizontal. If directions have been -followed in cutting the lead for the generator the -seams will occur only in that position.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To burn the generator the seams should be -shaved clean, both on the under and upper sides, -for a distance of ⅛ inch, making a seam ¼ inch -wide, taking care to have the lead seams lie close -to each other, for, if they do not, this flame will -cause the edges of the lead to spread away from -each other and leave a hole that is difficult to -patch.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now apply the flux with a small brush. When -<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>the flame is in working order bring it quickly -to bear on the end of the seam nearest you to be -burned. When it starts to fuse draw the flame -as quickly away, always drawing it to one side, -and from the upper to the lower sheet. The -melted drop will follow the flame and unite with -the melted drop on the lower sheet.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is necessary to have the shave hook near -at hand, so that, in case of oxidizing when fusing, -the melted drop can be broken up and allowed -to flow in place.</p> - -<p class='c000'>With a little practice and patience the generator -can be burned all right in this manner. This -gas is perfectly safe and can be handled with impunity. -This method would, of course, be impracticable -to use on a job of any size, but I have -used it several times where nothing else could -be obtained, and have always had very good success -with it.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER VI.<br /> <span class='large'>CONNECTING THE APPARATUS.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>We now assume that the generator is charged -and the rest of the apparatus is finished and -ready for use, so we will proceed to connect it -up ready for a trial.</p> - -<p class='c000'>About 30 feet of ¼-inch heavy rubber tubing -should be procured. This hose should be -heavy enough to allow of its being pulled around -without kinking and shutting off the supply of -gas. A piece of this hose 5 feet long should be -slipped on the gas cock M on the generator, -shown in Fig. 1, and then slipped over the gas -inlet tube of the scrubbing cup <em>n</em>. One must be -sure that this is connected to the gas inlet tube, -which is the tube that dips under the water in -the scrubbing cup.</p> - -<p class='c000'>With another 5-foot piece of hose connect the -gas outlet of scrubbing cup <em>o</em> to the right hand -cock on the mixing fork <em>f</em>. Always connect the -gas on the same side so as to avoid confusion -of cocks. Then with a 10-foot piece of hose connect -the air cock on the air holder <em>p</em> or bellows -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>to the remaining cock on the mixing fork <em>g</em>. An -8-foot piece should be connected from the gas outlet -on mixing fork <em>e</em> to the blow pipe <em>i</em>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>These tubes must fit tight to prevent any possible -leak of gas, and if they do not they should -be tightened on with pieces of wire. The remaining -piece of hose can be used to connect the air -pump C to the air inlet cock <em>s</em> on the air holder, -but if the bellows are used this will not be needed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now place in the scrubbing cup a half dozen -pieces of blue vitriol, or copperas, as it is commonly -called. Then pour in clear water until it -flows out of the trap screw <em>z</em>. This screw can -be made tight by using for packing a piece of -wicking which has been saturated with tallow. -After preparing the apparatus as above, refer to -the cut of the complete apparatus and compare -the connections on the cut with those made from -the above directions, to make positive that they -are right. If they agree, the apparatus is now -ready for use.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Testing the Apparatus.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>It is necessary to test the generator for leaks, -as a small blow hole may sometimes be left in -some of the seams or the cocks or cleaning screws -become defective.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To do this, first close the gas cock on the top -<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>of the gas chamber and make up the cleaning and -charging screws, which must be set on a bed of -soft putty. Then fill the acid chamber full of -hot water, first measuring the water so as to ascertain -just how much solution is required in proportion -to the amount of water, as it takes the -same quantity at all times. Allow it to stand for -a few moments, then mark the water line with a -pencil or nail, when it should be left standing for -an hour. The water should stay at the mark indicated -for an indefinite time. If it sinks during -this test it shows that there is a leak in the generator -and it must be located and repaired.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_057.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 15.—Mixing Fork.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>To locate the leak the gas cock should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>opened and the water allowed to run into the gas -chamber. If this does not show the leak, force -the water back into the acid chamber, which is -done by attaching the air pump to the gas cock. -Then taking a piece of soap and making a stiff -lather, daub it over the cocks and cleaning and -charging screw. When the leak is found the -escaping air will cause bubbles to be blown. If -the leak does not become apparent after the -above process, the side boards of the generator -should be taken off and the operation repeated -on the seams.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Under no circumstances must the apparatus -be left until there is absolutely no doubt as to its -being perfectly tight, as a slight leak would be -likely to cause a disastrous explosion and injure -or probably blind the operator. Flying vitriol is -not a very pleasant thing to get in one's eyes.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The apparatus should be frequently tested in -this manner: Before drawing off the water it is -desirable to learn what amount of gas pressure -there will be when the generator is charged, so -that the pressure of air and gas can be equalized. -The mathematical rule for this is to multiply the -head in feet by 0.434, and the result will be the -pressure in pounds; or an approximate way of -determining the pressure is to allow ½ pound -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>pressure for every foot of head. For example: -The hight of liquid in the generator measured -from the bottom of the acid supply pipe to the -top of the water or acid line, when at its highest -level, would be 3 feet. Allowing ½ pound for -every foot in hight would give a pressure of 1½ -pounds, which is slightly in excess of the mathematical -rule, which is 3 × 0.434 = 1.302, or 1 -pound 4 ounces, but to be accurate it is well to -attach a mercury gauge to the gas cock. Note -the hight of the column of mercury. Then attach -the gauge to the blast apparatus, and if the -floating air holder is used, sufficient weight must -be put on the top of air holder to raise the column -of mercury to a point not quite as high as is -indicated by the generator. These weights can -then be weighed and a similar weight made of -lead to correspond, which can be kept for permanent -use. If the bellows are used, the size -specified should be obtained, and the pressure -will be all right for this size generator without -further trouble. If the air holder indicated by -Fig. 8 is used, all that is necessary is to make -the hights of the water line in both generator and -air holder equal, and the pressure must be the -same.</p> -<div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_059.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<table class='table1' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='61%' /> -<col width='38%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'><em>Fig. 16.</em></td> - <td class='c009'><em>Fig. 17.</em></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c013' colspan='2'><em>Mixing Forks.</em></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>The reason that the air pressure should not -be heavier than the gas pressure is that if the -air were the stronger there would be danger of -the air working back into the gas tube and causing -an explosion in the tubes; consequently it is -well to note this point carefully. Many lead burners -will say that the pressure of air is of no consequence, -and all that is required is a sufficient -supply; but my experience and experiments have -convinced me that when the pressures of air and -gas are nearly equal the best results are obtained.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>The Mixing Fork and Blow Pipe.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The mixing fork and blow pipe can be made -in any plumbing shop and should be made of the -smallest size pipe available.</p> -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span> -<img src='images/i_061.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 18.—Blow Pipe and Tip.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>To make the mixing fork, purchase two ⅛-inch -female hose end gas cocks and 2 feet of ⅛-inch -iron pipe size brass tubing. Take a piece -of the tubing 12 inches long, cut a regular iron -pipe thread on each end, then bend it over a mandrel -stake or a piece of 4-inch soil pipe into a half -circle, as shown in Fig. 15, so that the ends will -come about 4 inches apart. In the center of this -piece drill a ⅛-inch hole, <em>a</em>. Then cut from the -remaining piece of tubing a piece 3 inches long. -Solder, or, better yet, have this piece brazed on -to the bent piece at <em>a</em>, taking care that no solder -can run in and partially stop the hole <em>a</em>. Then -screw the two ⅛-inch gas cocks on the ends <em>b</em> and -<em>c</em>. This will complete the mixing fork; or this -fork can be made by bending a piece of pipe at -an angle, as shown in Fig. 16; then cut another -piece equal in length to the bent piece from the -angle <em>e</em> to the end. One end of this piece must -be filed to fit the piece <em>d</em>. A hole can then be -drilled at <em>e</em>. Threads must be cut on these ends, -after which they can be brazed together. Or a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>good fork can be had by using a special casting. -This casting is used for and is known as a beer -switch, and can be purchased of any dealer in -bar supplies, Fig. 17. The same pattern and size -of cocks can be used for this fork as previously -described. Neither of these mixing forks has -any advantage over the other, but three styles -are given, as possibly one may be easier to make -than the other. Iron pipe may be used instead of -brass if desired.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To make the blow pipe, take the remaining -piece of tubing and cut a thread on one end. As -the other end slips into the hose, it does not need -a thread. The thread end must then be bent at -right angles to the tubing, as <em>c</em>, Fig. 16. This -can be done by boring a hole in a block of hard -wood just large enough for the tubing to enter, -and 1½ inches deep. Trim off the sharp edge -of this hole so as not to kink the pipe in bending. -The end of the tube can then be inserted in this -hole and bent to the desired shape, as shown. -This completes the blow pipes with the exception -of the tips, of which you should have three sizes, -drilled as follows: One for heavy lead, 3-32; one -for medium weight, 2-32, and one for very light -sheets, 1-32. These tips are made of small pieces -of cast or turned brass, preferably with a milled -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>shoulder, so as to facilitate removing with the -fingers. Probably the easiest way to get these -tips is to make a pattern out of wood and have -several of them cast. They can then be drilled -and tapped to any desired size, or they can be -cut from a round bar of brass or copper, filed or -turned to a point, then drilled and tapped. The -dimensions and particulars can be had from B in -Fig. 18 without further description being necessary. -A common blow pipe, such as is used with -the alcohol torch, can be used for practicing on -light sheets. But the beginner is advised to procure -the blow pipe and a set of tips described in -Fig. 18 before attempting to burn any heavy -lead.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER VII.<br /> <span class='large'>CHARGING THE GENERATOR.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>After making sure that the generator is perfectly -tight we will proceed to charge it. After -removing the 4-inch charging screw take 15 -pounds of commercial spelter, which has been -broken up with a hammer into pieces about 2 -inches square, and place this in the gas chamber, -distributing it as evenly as possible over the perforated -bottom. This is done so that the zinc -will expose all the surface possible to the action -of the acid, and must be observed in order to obtain -the best results. Do not put any pieces of -spelter into the generator that are small enough -to drop through the perforated bottom, for if -they do they will be likely to generate gas, which -will give overpressure and blow gas out through -the acid chamber. This can do no harm unless -close to a light, but it is very annoying to have -acid blown all over the generator. The charging -and cleaning screws must be screwed up -tight. After closing the gas cock on the generator -take the quantity of water (less one-seventh) -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>that was found to be necessary when -testing the apparatus, and pour this into the acid -chamber.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Mark the water line and watch it for a few -moments to make sure that everything is tight. -Then take of sulphuric acid a quantity equal to -one-seventh of the water used, and pour that into -the water in the acid chamber. It will diffuse -itself through the water and thoroughly mix. -Experience has taught me that acid mixed in any -proportion stronger than seven parts of water to -one part of acid does not act as quickly as when -mixed in the proportion mentioned. The reason -for this is that the strong acid simply coats the -zinc with a deposit or scum of sulphate of zinc, -which is soluble in water, but is not soluble in -acid. Therefore, if the acid is diluted with water -to the above mentioned proportion the water -readily dissolves the sulphate and allows the acid -to act freely on the zinc.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This sulphate falls to the bottom of the gas -chamber and if allowed to accumulate causes the -clogging mentioned later. The beginner will observe -from the explanation that the generator -cannot be crowded by making the solution strong. -It sometimes occurs that the vitriol seems to be -stronger than usual, and then again the reverse -<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>is also true. Good vitriol should be almost as -thick as cutting oil, and will work very quickly. -Care must be taken in pouring it into the generator -to prevent spattering. This is best avoided -by having a quart measure made of lead for this -purpose. It should also be borne in mind that -the <em>acid should always be added to the water</em>, -never the water to the acid, as this mixture always -generates heat, and the result would be -similar to adding water to hot lead.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Automatic Action of the Generator.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The generator works best while hot. The -gas cock on the generator should now be opened -and the mixture allowed to flow into the gas -chamber until it spurts out of the gas cock, which -must then be closed. By this action all the air -in the gas chamber is expelled, leaving it free to -generate pure gas at once. This is a sure method -of exhausting the air in the gas chamber. The -acid then attacks the zinc, causing it to decompose -the water and free the hydrogen contained -in the acid.</p> - -<p class='c000'>This gas, by reason of its lightness, will rise -to the surface of the acid, and as pressure increases -it will force the acid back up through the -acid supply pipe into the acid chamber, until the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>acid falls below the perforated bottom. When -the acid and zinc cease to come in contact with -each other the generation of gas stops until gas -is used, which relieves the pressure; then more -acid descends, and as it comes in contact with -the zinc more gas is generated, replacing that -which has been used. This action makes the -generator automatic, unless clogging with sulphate -of zinc takes place. This may happen at -any time if the apparatus is not cleaned after each -day's use.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Cleaning the Generator.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>To clean the generator in this case attach the -air pump to the gas cock on the generator and -force the acid up into the acid chamber by pumping -air slowly into the gas chamber until the acid -rises to the proper hight in the acid chamber, -where it can be held by forcing a long wooden -plug into the acid supply pipe. The pumping -must cease when the acid rises to the proper level, -or the excess pressure of air will work up through -the supply pipe and cause a blow of acid.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The charging screw can then be removed and -the zinc taken out and washed in hot water. Remove -the clean out screw and run one or two -pails of hot water through the gas chamber. This -will remove the deposits of sulphate paste. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>zinc can then be replaced, the screws tightened -and the acid released again. Be sure and exhaust -the air in the gas chamber, as previously -described, by letting the air spurt out of the gas -cock before connecting it to the scrubbing cup. -Care must be taken not to have any lights near -the generator when blowing out this mixture of -gas and air, as it is very explosive.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The apparatus will never clog if cleaned after -each day's work, which should always be done. -The tubes should be removed and hung up over -night to dry. The acid, if not spent, can be -dipped out of the acid chamber and placed in -jugs. The generator can then be carried to a -drain and filled with hot water, which should be -allowed to flow out through the cleaning screw. -This will clean the zinc and wash out all the -sulphate deposit. The screws may then be tightened -and the apparatus left ready for the next -day's use.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Fire Trap and Scrubbing Cup.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>One of the most essential parts of a lead burning -apparatus is a reliable fire trap and scrubbing -cup. This trap reduces to a minimum the -danger from explosion caused by neglecting to -free the gas from air. Its use as a scrubbing cup -is also of infinite value.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>The action of the vitriol on the zinc produces -a violent ebullition, and a small quantity of the -acid is carried in the form of spray from the generator -to the tubes, and, unless caught and removed, -will frequently get into the blow pipe tip -and extinguish the flame, making it necessary to -remove the hose and hang it up to drain and dry, -which oftentimes causes waste of time and annoyance.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Almost all spelter or zinc contains more or -less arsenic in a metallic state. It is also found -in sulphuric acid. This arsenic is released from -the acid or zinc as they decompose and is carried -by the force of the volume of gas to the blow -pipe tip, where, owing to it being necessary for -the operator to get his eyes close to the flames in -order to see the reducing flame, this poisonous -gas will be breathed into the lungs and oftentimes -cause a fatal illness. This fact has been disputed -by many, who say that it is impossible for the -unit of lightness—<em>i. e.</em>, hydrogen gas—to pick -up and carry a heavy metal such as arsenic. -Arsenic does not form a chemical combination -with hydrogen, having a very slight affinity for -it, but is carried to the blow pipe solely by the -force of the volume of gas.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To prove the above assertion we will refer -<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>to Professor Marsh, who demonstrated the ability -of hydrogen to carry arsenic in the following -manner: If a solution containing arsenic be -added to a solution of sulphuric acid and zinc, -the resulting hydrogen will, upon ignition, deposit -a ring of metallic arsenic upon any cold surface -that the flame be directed upon. (Professor -Marsh's experiment.)</p> - -<p class='c000'>It will be seen from the above that it is imperative -that the operator use a scrubbing cup -and see that it is properly filled with a solution -of blue vitriol. The ordinary impurities of hydrogen -generated in this manner are sulphur and -carbon, which should be removed if possible.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The actual use of the scrubbing cup is to -catch the above mentioned spray and precipitate -to some extent all other impurities contained in -the gas, and produce gas sufficiently pure for lead -burning.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Directions for Making the Cup.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>To make this cup take a piece of 4-inch lead -pipe 7 inches long (an ordinary piece of 4-inch -lead soil pipe will do); flange out one end and -burn in a flat bottom. Three inches from the -bottom, and in the side of this 4-inch pipe, burn -in a trap screw, <em>a</em>, Fig. 19, a screw taken from -an old lead trap being just the thing. This is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>to regulate the hight of the solution in the cup. -Now make a top by taking a piece of lead and -raising it about ¾ inch; punch two holes in this -top, <em>b</em> and <em>c</em>, large enough to let a ⅜-inch lead -pipe pass through; flange out the top of the cup -and fit and burn this top in place. Take two pieces -of ⅜-inch lead pipe, one to be 3 inches long and -the other to be 10 inches long, and with the -dresser draw one end of each to nearly a point, -so that the hose can be slipped on tight. The -long piece <em>c</em> should now be slipped through one -of the holes in the top of the cup, holding it ½ -inch from the bottom <em>d</em> and burning it in. This -is the gas inlet and should be marked as such. -The short piece is then placed in the remaining -hole and burnt in place. The action will be thus: -The gas entering the gas inlet pipe is caused to -pass through a solution of blue vitriol 2½ inches -deep, when the acid is caught and the gas is -scrubbed and rendered as nearly pure as possible. -It then enters the outlet pipe and is ready -for use. If the directions have been followed the -cup will resemble the illustration Fig. 17. No -trouble will be experienced with this cup.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i_071.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 19.—Fire Trap and Scrubbing Cup.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER VIII.<br /> <span class='large'>THE FLAME AND ITS MANAGEMENT.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>Before attempting to light the gas the operator -must be sure that all the air is exhausted -from the tubes. Otherwise the flame will go back -and explode in the tubes or fire trap. To be sure -of this the beginner must test the gas. A handy -test tube can be made by capping one end of a -piece of ½-inch pipe, which should be about 6 -inches long. To test the gas, first open wide the -gas cock M on the generator, Fig. 1. Then -open the gas cock <em>f</em> on the mixing fork and let -the gas displace the air in the tubes, which it will -do in about one minute. Then invert the test -tube, Fig. 20, and hold it over the blow pipe tip -for a moment until the gas has displaced the air -in the tube. Then quickly place your thumb over -the opening of the test tube, which will keep the -gas from escaping. Close the gas cock <em>f</em> on the -mixing fork, then take the test tube to one side -away from the generator, still keeping it inverted, -and bring it close to a lighted match or -candle. It will light with a pop, and if it is free -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>from air it will burn quietly down in the tube -until the gas is exhausted. Continue to test the -gas in this manner until it burns as described, -when it may be safely lit at the jet without fear -of its burning back. This precaution is necessary -only after opening the generator for some -purpose.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_074.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 20.—Method of Testing Gas.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c010'>Regulating Volume and Pressure.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>This generator evolves gas under a greater -pressure than can be used on most work, and for -this reason the flame will at first be long, noisy -and unsteady, as shown in A, Fig. 21, but, as -there are two cocks, the volume and pressure can -be regulated to the requirements of the work at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>hand. Now, to note the peculiarities of this -flame, we will close the gas cock <em>f</em> on the mixing -fork until the flame is about 3 inches long. It -will be of a pale reddish color and will burn steadily. -The inner flame is not as yet very well defined. -Then open the air cock <em>g</em> slowly, and -when sufficient air has been admitted the flame -will be seen to shoot out suddenly and then -shorten to about 1¾ or 2 inches in length. It -will be smooth, compact, and will have the appearance -of darting rapidly. If the correct quantity -of air has been admitted the inner flame, as -shown in B, Fig. 21, will then be plainly seen, -and its apex, which is the point of greatest heat, -will be blue. This inner flame is known as the -nonoxidizing flame, and is the flame with which -the fusing is done.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_075.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 21.—Flames Under Different Pressures.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>The outer flame will change to a bluish color. -Its temperature is low, and its effect on the lead -is to coat the metal with a heavy blue oxide, under -which the lead runs but does not unite. To demonstrate -this, bring the point of the inner or nonoxidizing -flame to bear on a piece of sheet lead. -It will fuse bright and clean and will have a circle -of gray oxide around it. Then quickly remove -the flame and the spot will remain bright. -Now, again bring the flame to bear on the same -piece of lead, keeping the point of the inner flame -at least ¾ inch away from the lead. It will melt -and flow together, but will be covered with a -coat of gray oxide and the union will not be -perfect. Slowly withdraw the flame, and before -the flame is entirely removed the spot will be -heavily coated with a thick blue oxide, under -which the lead will not unite. C, in Fig. 21, -shows the appearance of the flame when too -much air has been admitted and it is on the point -of going out from lack of gas.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The proper way to use the gas is to open wide -<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>the gas cock M on the generator, and do any -regulating of the flame with the gas cock <em>f</em> on -the mixing fork. These cocks should have pieces -of heavy wire brazed or soldered lengthwise of -the handles, Fig. 16, <em>h</em> and <em>i</em>, so as to form lever -handles. This will allow the gas and air cocks -to be closed or opened by gently tapping the levers -<em>h</em> and <em>i</em>, which is the only way that a slight -variation can be had, for if you try to regulate -them with the finger you will constantly open or -close them too much, and the result is that in adding -air too much is always admitted, which will -blow out the flame, making it necessary to turn -off the air and light the jet again, and many times -this operation will have to be repeated before the -flame is correctly adjusted.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It must be remembered to always turn on and -light the gas before admitting any air, and when -through with the flame the air must be turned off -first, then the gas. If this operation is reversed -an explosive mixture of gas and air would form -in the tube and would spoil the tube, if nothing -worse.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Study the Flame Well.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The beginner should study the flame until -perfectly familiar with the color and form of the -proper flame. One of the greatest troubles that -<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>the beginner will have with the blow pipe is the -inability to regulate the flame to the requirements -of the work. For instance: A flame that -would work nicely on 12-pound sheets would -burn holes in 4-pound sheets before you had time -to touch the lead with the inner flame. For that -reason three different sizes of tips should be -used. On a 2-pound sheet the smallest, or 1-32, -tip should be used, and the flame before reducing -should not be longer than ¾ inch, and when -reduced the inner flame can hardly be distinguished, -but you can easily tell when it touches -the lead by the metal fusing bright. If it is desired -to fuse 12-pound sheets the 2-32-inch tip -should be substituted, and it would be found necessary -to have the jet of gas about 3 inches long, -which, when reduced, would be about 2 inches -long and would show the inner flame very distinctly.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The only way to determine the size of the -flame necessary is by experimenting with it. It -will also come with experience. The flame should -be reduced to a size that will not melt the lead -as soon as it touches it. Rather, it should be in -such condition that the lead would have to be -heated first and let the fusing come gradually. -In that way it can be determined just what sized -<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>drop is required, and also plenty of time is allowed -to place it just where it is wanted—particularly -on upright seams and <em>imperatively</em> on -inverted seams.</p> - -<p class='c000'>It is not necessary to be so particular on horizontal -seams, as on seams in that position you are -assisted by gravity. The lead drop that is melted -from the upper lap cannot do otherwise than -unite with the under lap. It must be remembered -that in starting a seam you have cold lead -to fuse, and after the first drop is started the lead -in its vicinity will be heated almost to the melting -point, and you will probably be surprised to see -the lead run at the approach of the flame for the -next application.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Do Not Hurry.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The point to be taught here is that you must -not attempt to hurry this work or holes will -surely be burned in the sheets, which oftentimes -makes difficult work to patch. The old adage, -“haste makes waste,” can well be applied to lead -burning. Sufficient time must be allowed for one -drop to set before attempting to place the next -drop. Time spent on practicing at the bench is -time well spent, as many little details that cannot -be brought to the beginner's attention here -will be learned in that way and stored in his mind -for future application.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER IX.<br /> <span class='large'>THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF SEAMS.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>There are two kinds of seams proper, viz.: -The butt seam and the lap seam. The butt seam -is used principally for joining horizontal waste -pipes and in lengthening traps, or for any purpose -where it is desired not to have the point of -junction show. This form of seam can be burned -clear through—that is, the lead can be heated -until fusion takes place nearly through the entire -sheet. It is generally necessary to add lead to -the seam if it is desired to make the seam as -strong as the sheet it joins, unless the article to -be burned is of such a size as to be possible to -allow of its being burned on both sides, which -makes the strongest of seams. The lead for the -butt seams is prepared by rasping the edges of -the lead sheet to be joined straight and true, Fig. -22, so that when the edges of the lead are brought -together they will fit close its entire length. The -edges are then shaved for a distance of ⅛ -inch each side of the edge, making a seam ¼ -inch wide. On stock heavier than 12-pound -<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>sheets the edge should be shaved off, making a -deep V-shaped groove, and the seams must be -made by adding lead. This allows the fusion to -take place nearly through the sheet. The butt -seam is the simplest form to burn, no matter in -what position it is placed.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_081.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 22.—Rasping the Edges of the Lead Sheet Straight and True.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The lap seam is the seam commonly used, and -as between the butt seam and the lap seam the -latter is generally to be preferred. As it is not -necessary to cut and trim the edges true, it dispenses -with any additions of lead, except at rare -intervals; it leaves the left hand free to handle -the shave hook, and the lap can be dressed to fit -any uneven spots. It also makes the next best -seam to through fusing. By lap seaming a tank -can be lined in about half the time required to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>butt seam the same article, which is an important -item to the customer.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_082.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 23.—Burning a Lap Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The lead for this form of seam is prepared, -as its name indicates, by lapping one sheet -½ to ¾ inch over the other sheet. The under -edges are to be shaved clean, as also the upper -edge. The lead required to make the seam is -melted from the upper lap and is fused on the -lower sheet. There is no reason why the lead at -the point of juncture cannot be made as thick as -the original lead. This is the point aimed at in -practicing, and the only accurate way to determine -the relative strength of the seams is to cut -squarely across a finished seam, then bend the -beam slightly. The thickness can then be noted. -A cross section of a perfect lap seam is shown -<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>at <em>a</em> in Fig. 23. The beginner should practice the -different seams until the thickness of the joint -can be told by the looks of the lead. A few days' -diligent practice at the bench will soon train the -eye to note any imperfection that may arise.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The different seams will be taken up serially. -A description of how the seams are prepared and -the several positions of the blow pipe, as well as -the little difficulties that may arise, is the extent -of the instruction that can be given. The rest -must come with practice and the application of a -little common sense. There is no royal road to -this business; but practice, and practice hard, is -the only way to satisfactorily master the blow -pipe and flame, and in practicing remember that -all this work has been done before, and can be -easily done again, <em>and by you</em>. Do not get discouraged -by failure to make a perfect seam at -the first application, but stick to it for a short -time and it will be found to be a most fascinating -pastime, for which the persistent student will -eventually be well repaid.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Flat Butt Seam.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>For practicing I would recommend the beginner -to use pieces of sheet lead about 12 inches -long, as strips of that length are much easier to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>prepare. The edges are straightened with a fine -rasp which is held lengthwise of and parallel to -the edge to be trued, in the manner shown in Fig. -22. The rasp must be used lightly, or it will be -apt to tear the lead and so leave it in worse condition -than before using it. The edge should then -be gone over with the shave hook and cleaned. -Then shave the top surface a distance of ⅛ inch -each way from the edge, which will make a seam -¼ inch wide when finished. Then butt the edges -together and secure the sheets firmly to a board -with a few tacks. The extra lead that is necessary -to add to make a butt joint full must be obtained -from a strip of lead, which should be -about ⅛ inch square and <em>shaved clean</em>.</p> - -<p class='c000'>After regulating the flame to the proper size -and shape the burning should be begun at the -end of the seam nearest the operator. With the -point of the inner flame melt off a drop from the -lead strip and have it fall squarely on the seam -just slightly in advance of the point of fusion. -Follow it up with the flame, placing the point of -the inner flame directly over the edges of the -seam, which is almost under the lead drop. As -soon as fusion commences on the lead seam the -melted drop will flow to the bright spot and immediately -unite with it. The flame must then -<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>be quickly removed and the drop be allowed to -set.</p> - -<p class='c000'>In order to avoid any misunderstanding regarding -the time required for the lead drop to -set I would say that the drop will cool immediately -upon the flame being removed from contact -with it. It is not necessary to wait for any -specified time, but if the flame is allowed to play -constantly on the sheet it is apt to get overheated, -and when in that condition it takes very little -heat to set the lead running like water. To avoid -this the flame should be lifted clear of the seam -for an instant after each drop has been fused -into place.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_085.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 24.—Burning a Flat Butt Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>These remarks apply to all seams that are -made by the blow pipe process and should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>noted, as this particular point will not be referred -to again. Now melt off another drop and let it -fall as before, only it should lap on the previous -drop about one-half its diameter. Secure it to -the seam as before. This operation should be repeated -until the seam is completed, and if the -seam is correctly done a section will appear as <em>a</em> -in Fig. 24. This form of flat seam should be -practiced until perfectly familiar with the blow -pipe flame and until the beginner can approach -the lead with the flame without burning holes -through it, which will probably be the first thing -to happen.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Upright Butt Seam.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The upright butt seam is seldom used on large -work, as it is a difficult matter to make an upright -butt seam that will stand the test, as, if a finished -seam is cut into short pieces, an examination of -the severed ends will show many weak places that -were previously thought to be very strong. The -reason of this is that the heat necessary to fuse -through the lead will cause the lead to run from -the seam and leave a hole.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The sheets for practice are prepared as described -for flat butt seams, and must be securely -tacked to a board which can be supported in an -upright position. The burning is begun at the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>bottom of the seam. The flame must be shortened -considerably, as the fusing must take place -somewhat slower than in flat seams, as in upright -or inverted seams the attraction of gravity -remains to be overcome, and the operator must -have plenty of time between the commencement -of brightening and the actual fusing to drive the -melting drop to the exact position desired.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<img src='images/i_087.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 25.—Burning an Upright Butt Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The blow pipe is held so that the flame strikes -the seam squarely and at about a right angle with -the sheet, as shown in Fig. 25. When fusion -starts the flame should be drawn quickly to one -<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>side, and if the lead is at the proper temperature -the melted drop will follow the point of flame, -and as it comes in contact with the adjoining edge -it will properly unite. It is not necessary to add -lead to these seams oftener than at intervals of -5 or 6 inches, or as often as the lead shows signs -of weakening, when it may be added by holding -the lead strip against the lead sheet and slightly -above the flame. The melted drop will unite with -the sheet and can then be driven to any desired -position. This seam will show the characteristic -beads, but they will lie nearly level with the lead -sheets, and if a scratch cloth be rubbed over the -seam all traces of the position of the seam will -be removed.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To make a really strong seam it must be gone -over with the flame at least twice, as after fusion -of the edges takes place the flame can be used -quite strong without fear of the lead running -from the seam. Do not leave this seam until you -are satisfied that it is nearly perfect. It is good -practice, and every hour spent only makes the -mastery of the next seam come so much more -quickly.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Horizontal Butt Seam.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>This form of seam cannot be used to any advantage -on general work, but, like seams in other -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>positions, it cannot always be avoided. The practice -sheets are prepared and tacked securely to -the board, as previously described, and are then -placed in the position shown in Fig. 26. The -position of the blow pipe is as shown at <em>a</em>. The -flame should strike the sheet nearly square. The -edge of the upper sheet should be heated first, and -as it brightens the flame should be directed onto -the edge of the lower sheet. If properly done, -fusion will at once take place.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_089.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 26.—Burning a Horizontal Butt Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The object sought is to get a light fusion between -the two sheets before attempting to burn -the lead clear through the seam. If this is not -done, the lead will run from the upper sheet and -cause holes, or at least will seriously weaken -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>the upper sheet, as shown in cross section at <em>b</em>. -After fusion is once obtained it is a simple matter -to go over the seam a second time, which can -then be fused clear through without much danger -of burning holes through the sheet. Lead -can be added in the same manner as in upright -seams if necessary.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Inverted Butt Seam.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>This seam is used extensively in joining waste -pipes which conduct the acid from tanks to the -drain. These pipes are usually in a horizontal -position and the seams must be burned in place. -The most difficult part of the seam is in starting -it. When fusion has once taken place the balance -of the seam is easy. The seam is prepared -the same as described for other butt seams. Care -must be taken to have the edges butt close. The -board can then be supported in the required position -by any convenient device.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The blow pipe flame must be made as short -as possible and still melt the lead. The point of -the inner flame is then placed squarely on the -seam. Both edges must be heated at once. If -the edges begin to brighten and do not show an -inclination to fuse, the flame should be drawn -quickly to one side, and the melted drop will follow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>the point of flame and unite with the adjoining -edge. This seam, in common with the other -butt seams, should be gone over the second time -to assure a perfect seam. It is difficult work to -add lead to the flat inverted seam. When necessary -to do so, however, it can be added by burning -the end of the lead strip to the seam. The -strip is then melted off, leaving a drop of lead -affixed to the seam, which can then be drawn to -the required spot with the flame.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The characteristic inverted seam shows pits -upon examination of the reverse side of the -sheets. These are caused by overheating. The -operator will often be surprised at the inverted -butt seam showing a remarkable fullness. This -is accounted for upon the examination above referred -to. The lead, upon the application of the -heat, runs from the upper or back side of the -sheet and forms a very full seam. For that reason -the inverted butt seams always appear -stronger than they really are. See inverted lap -seam, Fig. 27.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Lap Seams.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The lap seams are the seams commonly used on -all classes of work. When the beginner becomes -proficient with the blow pipe no trouble will be -experienced in making lap seams that will show -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>when cut a joint equal in thickness to the sheets -that are joined. The lead sheets for the flat lap -seam are prepared by shaving clean the exposed -edge; also, shave the sheets where they touch -each other. The upper edges can then be shaved -for a distance of ⅛ inch each side of the lap, -which will make the finished seam ¾ inch wide, -as shown at <em>a</em> in Fig. 23. The sheets should be -lapped ½ to ¾ inch, according to the weight of -the stock. It is very evident that light weights -would not require as large a lap as would heavier -sheets, as the object of lapping the sheets is -to leave the sheets practically as one piece, and -the lead, to accomplish this object, is to be melted -from the upper sheet.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_092.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 27.—Burning an Inverted Lap Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>From the foregoing it will be seen why a 12-pound -sheet requires a ½-inch lap, while a 24-pound -sheet would require a ¾-inch lap. The -flame, when regulated to the work, is brought to -bear squarely on the edge of the upper sheet, -slanting slightly in the direction of the lower -sheet, as shown. When the edge has brightened -almost to the fusing point the blow pipe should -be drawn quickly to one side and from the upper -sheet to the lower sheet. If the metal is sufficiently -hot the melted drop will follow the point -of the flame and instantly fuse with the lower -sheet, and if properly done the seam will resemble -<em>b</em> in Fig. 23. This process is repeated, -advancing about ⅛ to ¼ inch each time. Do -not attempt to fuse a large surface at a time. -Experts cannot do such a thing satisfactorily, so -why should a beginner try to? Rather, try to -fuse small surfaces quickly and strongly, as better -work and more of it can be accomplished in -that manner.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Horizontal Lap Seams.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>This seam is prepared precisely as described -for flat lap seams. The strips can be fastened to -a board with a few tacks. The strips can then -<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>be supported in the position shown in Fig. 28. -The burning is commenced, as before, at the side -nearest the operator. The flame must be made -as short as is consistent with the weight of the -stock. It will be found to the beginner's advantage -to have fusion take place slowly. The point -of the inner flame is brought to bear on the outer -edge of the lapped sheet and at an angle of 45 -degrees. Both sheets should begin to brighten -at about the same time. The melted drop must -be driven against the back sheet by the force of -the jet of flame, and if the sheets are clean fusion -will take place quickly.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_094.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 28.—Burning a Horizontal Lap Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The drops or beads of lead will appear very -<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>small on this form of seam, owing to that great -obstacle, gravity, which causes the drop when -melted to flow downward and so swell the seam. -The drops, in common with other forms of lap -seams, should be made short, letting each drop -overlap the previous drop as much as possible. -Great care must be taken not to weaken the seam, -as shown at <em>a</em>. The beginner should strive to -get the seams so that when cut into small sections -each section will resemble the result shown at <em>b</em>.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Upright Lap Seams.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Prepare the sheets as for flat lap seams, fastening -the sheets securely to a board, as previously -described. The burning should be begun -at the lowest point of the seam. After regulating -the flame, the point of the inner flame is applied -to the edge of the outer sheet slightly above -the point decided upon as the starting point, and -at an angle of about 30 degrees, as shown at <em>a</em> -in Fig. 29. As the drop begins to melt it will -have a tendency to flow downward. By a quick -turn of the wrist the flame must then be directed -against the back sheet and slightly under the -melting drop.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The under sheet should brighten at once, and -the force of the flame, being partially directed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>against the melted drop, tends to force it against -the bright spot on the back sheet, with which it -instantly unites. The flame must then be withdrawn -for an instant, to give the fused drop time -to set. The operation must be repeated until the -seam is finished. Using ordinary language, it -may be said that the drop is cut from the upper -sheet, carried slightly downward and then stuck -against the back sheet by the force of the flame.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_096.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 29.—Burning an Upright Lap Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>This seam is the one most used, and the beginner -should practice it diligently. After mastering -it in the position shown in the cut, the -board should be fastened to the floor and the beginner -<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>should practice burning the upright seam -from above the work. This position occurs many -times in lining tanks, and the beginner who conquers -the upright seam in that position can consider -himself sufficiently proficient to attend to -any job of lead burning that may arise. The -beads of lead will appear more compact and regular -than in the flat seam, and if properly done will -upon cutting the sample show a very strong joint.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Inverted Lap Seam.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>This seam should be attempted only after becoming -very proficient with the blow pipe and -flame, after which it becomes as easy to burn as -in any other position. In order to get the range -of the seam the sheets should be arranged in the -position shown in Fig. 27. The burning is begun -on the upright seam, and continued up and -over the curved portion and on to the inverted -seam. The graduation from the upright seam to -the inverted seam is simple and gradual, and is -hardly noticeable.</p> - -<p class='c000'>After accomplishing the inverted seam in this -manner, strips of lead should be prepared and -fastened to the board as described for upright -seams. The board should be supported in an inverted -position at a convenient hight over the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>operator's head. The flame should be shortened -as much as possible. The burning may be started -at any convenient point and continue in each -direction. The point of the inner flame is applied -to the seam at a slight angle, as <em>a</em>. The object is -to obtain a fusion between the back sheet and the -upper edge of the lap. When this is accomplished -fusion proceeds easily.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_098.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 30.—Burning an Inverted Corner Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The hardest part of this seam is in starting -it, and when once started, with a little patience -and care, the balance of the seam can be fused -without any trouble. Fig. 30 shows an exercise -which the beginner should practice after having -<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>conquered Fig. 27, as it teaches the making of -an inverted corner seam. Of course, this position -seldom occurs in small work, but if the burning -of it is once accomplished it will give the -operator considerable confidence in his own ability.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER X.<br /> PIPE SEAMS.</h2> -</div> -<h3 class='c010'>The Butt Seam on Round Pipe.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Pipes that are placed in a horizontal position -are usually butt seamed, as a stronger seam can -be made in that manner. This form of seam is -also used in lengthening traps, bends, etc. To -prepare a round pipe for butt seaming, the ends -of the pipe should first be made perfectly round -by inserting a drift plug and dressing the lead up -close to it. The ends of the pipe should be rasped -true and then shaved clean. Also shave the pipe -for a distance of ⅛ inch each side of the edge. -A piece of stiff writing paper should then be -rolled up the size of the pipe and inserted in the -ends. This paper will prevent any lead from -running into the pipe and leaving rough edges, -as these afterward form an obstruction.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The burning should be commenced at the under -side of the pipe, Fig. 31, and proceed both -ways from the starting point and finish at the -top. If the beginner has successfully overcome -the difficulties of the seams preceding this he will -<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>find no trouble in making a strong and workmanlike -seam on this pipe. Pipes are seldom used -heavier than the grade known as D for this class -of work, and for that reason it is seldom necessary -to add lead to these seams. But if a hole -should be burned in the pipe on the under side, -lead should be added to the top side of the pipe -and then made to follow the flame to the desired -spot. This will be found a quicker and more certain -method than attempting to add lead directly -to the hole. A properly burned pipe should show -the full thickness of the pipe when cut with a saw.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_101.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 31.—Burning a Butt Seam on Round Pipe.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<h3 class='c010'>Through Seam on Round Pipe.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Where heavy pipe that is to be used under -pressure is to be joined it must be burned through -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>to provide strength, and the ends prepared in the -same way as just described, but the ends must -also be trimmed off all the way around with a -slight bevel reaching from the outside almost to -the inside bore of the pipe. The bevel must stop -so as to allow a narrow square butt end on each -pipe. Then when a piece of paper has been -placed on the inside to prevent lead running into -the pipe, the two ends when butted will present -a V-shaped groove, as shown in Fig. 32, reaching -all around the pipe. The burning is commenced -at the bottom, as shown in Fig. 31, and -the two ends securely united. The groove is then -filled by burning on additional lead from a thin -cleaned strip until the groove is filled and the pipe -made as heavy and strong at this point as anywhere -on its entire length.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_102.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 32.—Joint Prepared for Through Burning.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span> - <h3 class='c010'>The Lap Seam on Round Pipe.</h3> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id008'> -<img src='images/i_103a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 33.—Preparing for a Lap Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_103b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 34.—Burning a Lap Seam on Round Pipe.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>This seam is used almost exclusively on pipe -in a vertical position, and is similar to the horizontal -lap seam. The pipe is prepared by spreading -the lower piece of pipe with a drift plug one -size larger than the size of the pipe used. The -end of the pipe intended to enter this socket is -rasped to a bevel edge, as shown at <em>a</em>, Fig. 33. -This end is then shaved clean, as is also the inside -of the socket. The pipe is then placed into -the socket, which is then dressed up tight against -the inserted pipe, as shown in Fig. 34. The exposed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>edge is then cleaned and burned, as described -for horizontal lap seams.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>The Tee Joint on Round Pipe.</h3> - -<div class='figcenter id010'> -<img src='images/i_104.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 35.—Making a Tee Joint on Round Pipe.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>With a pair of compasses set the diameter of -the pipe that it is desired to insert, and strike a -circle on the pipe which is to receive the tee. -With a tap borer, or any other device, cut out a -circle of lead, leaving about ¼ inch to turn up. -Then draw this remaining lead up by means of a -bending iron and a heavy piece of iron, such as -<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>a chisel, as shown at B in Fig. 35, until the hole -is large enough to receive the piece intended for -it, the end of which should be beveled with a fine -rasp, as shown at <em>a</em>. The lead should then be -dressed back against the pipe, after which remove -the piece and shave clean, and proceed to -burn as described for the lap seam on round pipe, -and as shown in Fig. 36. Care must be taken in -dressing up the lead flange to dress it slowly so -as to avoid weakening the lead.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Lining Tanks.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The lining of chemical tanks being the principal -work of the chemical plumber, a description -of how this work is done will probably be of -some use to the beginner. In preparing lead -sheets for a tank the sheets should be cut so as -to give the most seams on the bottom, because -of the greater ease in making them. In large -tanks I find it convenient to put the bottom in -first, cutting it to make an easy fit, and then the -sides are put in. These are cut to allow ¾-inch -lap on the bottom.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The lead sheets are laid on the floor, or some -other smooth place, which has previously been -swept clean, and then dressed out smooth. This -can best be done by using the wooden dresser to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>take out the large wrinkles and then smoothing -with a lead flap. This flap is simply a piece of -sheet lead about 3 inches wide and 12 inches -long, one end of which is drawn into a roll to fit -the hand. Then mark the laps and bend them to -the desired position. The under side of the lap -should be shaved clean, as also the lead under the -lap, to facilitate fusion.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_106.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 36.—Burning in the Tee Joint.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>If the tank is over 18 inches high the lead -must be fastened to the sides with bullseyes. -These are made by countersinking places in the -sides of the tank. The lead is then dressed into -these holes and it is held in place with large -headed brass screws, which are covered by burning -over the heads. Lead for the purpose is taken -from lead strips. The building up process is resorted -to in covering these screw heads.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>The lead should be arranged so as to avoid -corner seams as much as possible, as it is quite a -difficult job to get the proper thickness of lead -in such seams. No rule can be given for cutting -lead to fit a tank, as tanks are of such a variety -of sizes and shapes, and the lead is of so many -widths, that the mechanic must study how to cut -the stock without waste and have as few seams -as possible.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER XI.<br /> <span class='large'>ACID CHAMBER WORK.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>It is not my intention to give an elaborate -description of how acids are made or to attempt -to describe all of the different fittings employed -in that work, because while all plants are similar -in construction no two are alike. For that reason -I will confine myself to the methods employed -in handling lead in large quantities, as the lead -used in this work ranges in weight from 18 to 24 -pounds to the foot and is therefore very heavy to -handle. These chambers are known as condensing -chambers, and their use is to catch and condense -a mixture of sulphur and steam which is -blown into them through a large lead pipe. For -that reason they are usually built out of doors, -and sometimes have a sort of temporary roof -built over them. Consequently in repairing they -are easily gotten at, which, by the way, is seldom -necessary.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span> -<img src='images/i_109.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 37.—Method of Framing Chamber.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>To begin with, the sheet lead should be purchased -of such a width as to make as few seams -as possible. The bottom of the chamber for this -lead to lie upon should be made of 2-inch cypress -plank, the same to be tongued and grooved as -for floors, and should be planed down, if necessary, -so that it will present a perfectly smooth -surface for the lead to rest upon, for if there are -any uneven spots that is where the lead will -eventually crack. The frame work for the sides -should also be put in place before the lead work -is started, or at least enough of it to prevent dirt -and other stuff from bothering the burner. One -end of the chamber, however, should be left open, -so as to enable the workmen to bring in the lead -or other material. The sides should not be closed -up, but should be framed, as shown in Fig. 37, so -as to allow the lead to be securely fastened to the -frame work, which should be made of heavy -stock, depending, of course, upon the depth and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>size of chamber, as they are in all sizes, from 10 -feet to 60 feet long and longer.</p> - -<p class='c000'>After seeing that this part of the work is all -right, begin to place the bottom in position. This -lead should be cut large enough to allow of its -being turned up about 2 inches all around for -tight tanks. The sides are not burned to the bottoms -of some chambers, but the bottom lead is -turned up different hights, depending upon how -deep it is required to carry the acid in the chamber, -which is from 4 to 10 inches or deeper. The -studding should be notched out to allow the -turned up lead to face with the face of the studding, -otherwise there would be a bend in the side -lead where it overlaps the sides of the bottom. -The flat seams in the bottom should be butted -together, so as to give a perfectly smooth surface, -which will allow all the acid to be drawn off.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_110.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 38.—Chipping Knife.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span> -<img src='images/i_111.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 39.—(A) Strap Split and Bent in Alternate Directions. (B) Bevel End of Strap.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>It is rather a difficult task for some men to -cut heavy lead straight. This is easily accomplished -by first marking a chalk line on the lead -where it is desired to cut it off; then, taking the -hammer and chipping knife, as shown in Fig. 38, -dip the blade of the knife in water, lay the blade -square on the line and strike the back of the blade -lightly with the hammer. Mark the sheet the -whole length in this manner. Then go over it -again and repeat the operation, making sure that -the knife is held straight. The blade of the knife -must be kept wet or it will stick in the lead and -cause it to glance off sideways. After it is cut -any uneven spots can be planed off smooth with -a small smoothing plane, set so as to take off a -very light chip. The lead should now be placed -in position and dressed smoothly by using a piece -of pine, or other soft board, as a dresser. This -must be laid on any uneven spots and then -pounded down smooth with a heavy wooden mallet, -after which the seams should be shaved and -burned at once; or if the seams are short and it is -desired to put in enough work one day to keep -the burner busy the next, strips of paper 6 inches -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>wide should be pasted over the seams to keep the -dust out. Only the edges of the paper should -be pasted, so that when ready to burn all that will -be necessary is to take hold of one end of the -paper and strip it off, leaving the seam clean and -free from dust and paste and ready to shave and -burn.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_112.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 40.—Roll of Lead in Position.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>After the bottom is finished the sides must be -put in, in such a manner as to have as few seams -in an upright position as possible, as it saves considerable -time to burn them when horizontal. On -small chambers or tanks not over 10 feet deep -the carpenter should make a staging wide enough -to receive two sheets of lead and as long as the -tank is deep. The bottom of the chamber should -then be covered with boards, so as to prevent -damage to the lead. The staging is then brought -<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>in and set up on horses, and the sheets of lead are -cut off and laid on the staging. The seams are -lapped, shaved and burned, after which the lead -tacks or straps are cut and burned on, to support -the lead when in position.</p> - -<p class='c000'>There are different ways of putting on these -straps. For side lead I use strips of the lead itself -about 3 inches wide and long enough to lap -well onto the studding. My way is to split this -strip about ½ inch deep and bend the ends in -alternate directions. The edges are then cut off, -as shown at A, Fig. 39, after which they are -burned in place. These straps should be spaced -not more than 15 inches apart, and should be -placed in such a manner as to come on the upper -side of the studding.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_113.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 41.—Clamp and Method of Applying.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>Another method of putting on these tacks, -and one which is most commonly practiced, is to -trim the end of the strip of lead as shown at B, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>Fig. 39. The strip is laid flat on the lead sheet, -with the bevel end down, and is then burned onto -the sheet in that position, after which it is bent -over the studding and nailed. The exponents of -this method claim that a better job is done in that -manner, as there is always a lifting pull on the -strap. I claim for the first method that there is -more strength in the lead seam, and that as the -edge of the studding comes directly under the -strap it acts as a sort of shelf for the strap and -thereby becomes a strong brace. But it is probably -only a matter of habit, as they hold all right -either way.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now, after having the seams burned and the -straps in place, the lead must be put in position. -This can be accomplished by any arrangement -of block and tackles, but if the chamber be very -large it will be found to be a saving of time and -labor to rig up a derrick. This is not such an expensive -thing to do, as a carpenter is always on -hand and most likely all the material needed is -already on the ground. This derrick should be -constructed with a swinging boom, so that it can -be raised, lowered or swung into any desired -position.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span> -<img src='images/i_115.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 42.—Showing Staging in Position.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>Now to raise the side lead into position: The -derrick is hooked onto the hook or rope that is -on the upper end of the staging. It can then be -easily raised in position. If the tank be very -deep, or if it should be too narrow to follow this -method, the sheet lead should be rolled up on a -piece of 2, 3 or 4 inch iron pipe, depending upon -the weight of the lead. This pipe should be long -enough to project at least 6 inches from both ends -of the roll. Two timbers, long enough to cross -the frame work, should be obtained. About 18 -inches from one end of each timber a notch -should be cut to prevent the pipe from rolling. -These timbers must now be placed across the -frame work just over the place that is intended -for the lead. The whole roll can now be raised -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>with the derrick and the ends of the pipe placed -in the notches. The lead can then be pulled -down, similar to pulling down a window shade, -after which the tacks can be burned on in place. -This is shown at <em>a</em>, Fig. 40. Or if there be room -enough the piece of lead can be cut from the roll, -dressed smooth and have the tacks burned on -while on the floor. The upper end of the lead -can then be rolled over and nailed to a piece of -timber 2 × 6 inches or heavier, and the derrick -hooked onto this and raised in position. This is -the easiest method where there is room to do it. -These are a few of the methods used, but there -are numerous other ways.</p> - -<p class='c000'>To place the top lead in position requires a -staging, which can be built as follows: Enough -hooks should be made to properly support the -staging, shown at A, Fig. 41. Two timbers -should be laid across the top of the chamber, far -enough apart to allow two strips of lead to be -placed in position at once. The hooks are now -hooked over these timbers, while two pieces of -3 × 3 or 4 × 4 are placed in the other end of the -hook. Planks are now laid over these timbers -and the screws set up until the tops of the planks -come just level with the top of the lead—not -higher, or else they will prevent the joist from -being placed in position.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>The lead can now be cut off on the ground -and hoisted up to the top, where it becomes an -easy matter to place it in position. The lead tacks -can now also be cut and burned on. They should -be cut sufficiently long to allow them to lap over -the top of the joist, as shown at <em>a</em>, Fig. 42, where -they should be nailed with large headed nails. It -will be noticed that the tacks are doubled up on -the top lead and that they are not set opposite -each other. The joist can now be set and the -tacks nailed on, after which ropes can be tied onto -the projecting ends of the 4 × 4 timbers and the -whole staging be lowered to the floor at once. -This operation can be repeated until the whole -top is on.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id011'> -<img src='images/i_117.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 43.—Lead Headed Nail.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>It will be necessary to leave small holes between -the lead seams at intervals for the hooks -to pass through. However, these can be burned -over at any time, and where the ends of the top -should overlap the end of the chamber the lead -can be left turned up until the staging is removed, -after which it can be turned over and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>burned. The hooks are made of ⅝ round iron -and have a long thread cut on one end, so as -to allow for adjustment. The details are shown -in Fig. 41. There are also numerous fittings -used in connection with these condensing chambers, -but they are all easily made and are too -simple to take up space here in explanation. -Should it be necessary to use nails for any purpose -on the inside of the chamber, the heads -should be dipped into a pot of melted lead that -has not quite set until the adhering ball of lead -is about ½ inch in diameter, as shown in Fig. 43. -These nails can be driven in place and the lead -burned to the sheet lead, which will prevent corrosion.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER XII.<br /> <span class='large'>SPECIAL HYDROGEN APPARATUS AND BURNER.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The articles on the universal method of lead -burning having been completed, I desire to call -attention to a new method and a new generator -recently patented and put on the market by the -Kirkwood & Herr Hydrogen Machine Company, -3129 South State street, Chicago, Ill. It is called -the Kirkwood generator and a general view of it -is given in Fig. 44. This generator is a radical -departure from the old style generator, as used -for the purpose of lead burning, inasmuch as it -dispenses with the air blast and consequently with -the mixing fork and tubes. The air required to -reduce the hydrogen gas to a working condition -is obtained by absorbing the air at the mouth of -the burner.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The new generator differs also in the amount -of pressure used on the gas. With the old style -generator, previously described, a pressure of -1½ to 2 pounds is used, whereas the Kirkwood -generator is used under a pressure varying from -8 to 30 pounds. At the higher pressure the maker -<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>claims the best results are obtained. The generator -is made in a size that enables the operator -to take it to a job on a street car or train, and -that while containing the full charge of acid and -zinc, as it weighs when charged about 50 pounds. -This is a very important advantage over the old -style machine.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Construction of the Generator.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The generator is constructed, so to speak, -just the reverse of the old style generator, inasmuch -as the lower chamber contains the charge -of acid, while the zinc is placed in the upper -chamber. The generator shown in the sectional -view, Fig. 45, is cylindrical in shape, 9 inches -in diameter and 30 inches high. A horizontal -partition, to which is burned a pipe long enough -to reach to a point about 1 inch above the bottom -of the acid chamber, is burned into the cylinder -at a point a little above the middle of the -cylinder, making the acid chamber larger than -the gas chamber. This arrangement allows the -back pressure of gas to force the acid down into -the acid chamber, compressing the air in the acid -chamber without permitting any gas to find its -way into the acid chamber and thus preventing a -waste of gas. In this horizontal partition and -over the pendent pipe a number of ¼-inch holes -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>are drilled or punched. This enables the acid to -pass freely into the gas chamber, and prevents -any small particles of zinc from falling into the -acid chamber, which would generate gas in the -chamber. Connected to the top of this acid chamber -is a small pipe which runs up through the gas -chamber and terminates above it, as shown. This -pipe has an air inlet valve, or small hose end gas -cock, connected into the side of the pipe, to which -the hose from the force pump is attached when -supplying air to the acid chamber to force from -the acid chamber to the gas chamber in order to -start the generation of gas. A safety or blow -off valve is also attached to this pipe at the top, -and is set to an ordinary working pressure of 15 -pounds, or to any pressure desired. If gas is being -generated faster than is required it gets up a -pressure in excess of 15 pounds. Then the safety -valve opens and allows the air in the acid chamber -to escape until the gas goes down to the desired -pressure again. This obviously allows a -portion of the acid to return to the acid chamber, -and later, as the acid becomes weaker, the air in -this chamber will have to be renewed by the admission -of a little more air.</p> - -<div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_121.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<table class='table1' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='58%' /> -<col width='41%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c008'><em>Fig. 44.—General View.</em></td> - <td class='c009'><em>Fig. 45.—Sectional View.</em></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c013' colspan='2'><em>The Kirkwood Lead Burning Machine.</em></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span> -<img src='images/i_122.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 46.—The Kirkwood Lead Burner.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>A large charging screw is placed directly in -the top of the gas chamber. Into this is screwed -a tee and short nipple, or it may be a special fitting -<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>made for that purpose. On this tee or special -fitting a pressure gauge is screwed, and a -float valve is attached on the branch. Into the -gas chamber or as close to the partition as possible -an angle valve is placed.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>To Operate.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>To charge the apparatus the safety valve is -removed and the amount of the charge of acidulated -water having been previously ascertained, -the charge is poured into the acid chamber -through the air pipe. The charge of spelter or -zinc is placed in the gas chamber through the -charging screw on top of the gas chamber. The -pump is now attached to the air inlet cock with -a short hose, and a few strokes of the pump will -force the acid up into the gas chamber until the -zinc is completely submerged. The generation -of gas will begin at once.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The cock on the burner is then closed until -the necessary working pressure is obtained, when -it is ready for use. The pressure of gas can be -regulated by setting the safety valve to blow off -at a greater or less pressure, as desired. The -use of the float valve is to prevent acid from being -forced out of the gas chamber and into the -tube. If this happens, the valve floats up and instantly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>closes the outlet, in which condition the -valve remains until sufficient gas is generated to -force the acid back into the acid chamber. When -first charging the machine, acid should be forced -up into the gas chamber until this valve closes, -as that will force all of the air contained in the -gas chamber out through the tube, leaving only -pure gas in the generator. When the acid is -spent it is easily removed from the generator by -attaching the pump to the air inlet cock and forcing -the acid up into the gas chamber. The angle -valve is then opened, when the spent acid can be -drawn off into a pail or other receptacle. This -will not drain the acid chamber absolutely dry, -but practically so.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When the operator ceases work, as for dinner -or for any purpose, all that is necessary is to open -the air inlet cock and detach the hose from the -gas outlet. The acid will return by gravity to -the acid chamber when generation ceases. When -the operator is ready to resume work a few -strokes of the pump will start generation again.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>The Burner.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>The burner, shown in Fig. 46, which is the -most important part of the apparatus, is also constructed -on a principle not heretofore used on a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>lead burning apparatus. It consists of a small -tube, to one end of which is screwed a small cock, -similar to a pet cock. To the other end, at a convenient -angle, is brazed the burner proper. This -consists of a needle point valve. The needle point, -being about ½ inch long, is arranged so that the -point can pass through the gas outlet about 1-16 -inch. This seems to spread the flame in such a -manner that it absorbs sufficient air to reduce -the flame. It can be regulated by drawing the -needle in or out, as the work requires. There is -also a tube arranged to act as a by-pass or subflame. -By opening the valve on this by-pass a -pilot or subflame is maintained, which does away -with the annoyance of having the flame pop out -or become extinguished, as it is instantly ignited -again by the subflame. In operating, the flame -is held at such a distance from the work as experience -will teach to be proper, or until the lead -starts to melt. It should fuse with that well-known -and instantly recognized bright appearance -which indicates the nonoxidizing flame.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Any one who is used to handling the blow -pipe can easily familiarize himself with this blow -pipe. The maker claims that 2 quarts of vitriol -will serve to operate the apparatus for a day of -8 hours on lead as heavy as 12-pound. I have no -<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>doubt that it will do even more than the makers -claim for it. The apparatus is made in three -sizes, adapted for different classes of work. After -the experience I have had with it, I feel sure that -any beginner can use this apparatus safely if he -uses ordinary judgment and care in handling a -gas apparatus that needs common sense treatment.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span> - <h2 class='c005'>CHAPTER XIII.<br /> <span class='large'>SOFT SOLDERING WITH THE MOUTH BLOW PIPE.</span></h2> -</div> - -<p class='c006'>The common blow pipe is a simple little tool -that is used in connection with an alcohol torch -for soldering the finest and most delicate pieces -of jewelry, and constitutes the sole method of soldering -used by Britannia workers and jewelers, -and the fact that such a varied assortment of -articles are soldered by the blow pipe process -leads one to surmise that it can be used to advantage -on coarser work. Though it is a familiar -tool to gas fitters, plumbers as a rule are ignorant -of its use, and it is hard work to find one -who ever saw a blow pipe used on lead work. It -is an easy matter to become proficient in its use, -and the trick of keeping up a steady blast, and -breathing regularly at the same time, is soon -learned, and, when once acquired, stays with you -always. This trick consists of making a bellows -of your cheeks and using your tongue as a valve -to close the entrance to the throat, leaving the -passage from the nostrils to the lungs clear for -breathing purposes. The only things necessary -<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>to purchase for practice are a common bent blow -pipe, which can be had for about 15 cents, and a -common candle.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_128.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 47.—Position of Candle and Blow Pipe.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>To operate: The candle should be lighted, and -when it burns well and freely the tip of the blow -pipe should be brought close to the flame and -slightly above the wick, <em>a</em>, Fig. 45. Then blow -lightly through the blow pipe, and a pointed clear -blue flame from 1 to 2 inches long, which will -burn paper or char wood at a distance of 6 or 8 -inches from the flame, will be the result. The -flame is hottest and best when it shows a perfect -cone-shaped blaze, and is obtained by a very -moderate blast. The variation of the blaze can -be noted by commencing to blow very lightly and -increasing the pressure gradually. The flame -<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>will then show all stages from a smoky flame to -a long blaze that cannot be concentrated on any -small surface. The little sharp tip is where the -hydrogen burns, and is the hottest part of the -flame, being the part that is used for soldering.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Now, having noted these peculiarities, and -knowing the perfect flame by sight, we will proceed -to acquire the steady blast. The blow pipe -should be held between the lips, which will form -a tight packing around it, and must not come in -contact with the teeth. The cheeks are then inflated, -which will have a tendency to throw the -tongue back to the throat and prevent the air in -the mouth from blowing out through the nose. -Now, by contracting the cheeks, and throwing -the tongue slowly forward, the air will be forced -through the blow pipe. This action is assisted -when exhaling air by the pressure of the lungs, -but when inhaling air the muscular contraction -of the cheeks is depended upon entirely for the -blast.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The ability to keep up a steady blast is merely -a trick, or knack, and is learned with a few hours' -practice; when learned, the length of time that -the blast can be kept up depends solely upon the -strength of the muscles of the cheeks of the operator. -If these did not tire, the blast could be kept -<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>up for an indefinite time. Having learned to -keep up the steady blast and get a perfect flame, -the beginner will want to practice soldering. The -blow pipe method of soldering has for its range -of work everything that can be soldered, from -Britannia metal to platinum, but the only metals -that are used by the plumbers are tin and lead -and their several compositions, so we will confine -ourselves to the study of those metals.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Kinds of Solder Used.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>In soldering any metal the solder should be -so proportioned that it will melt many degrees -lower in temperature than the metal to be soldered. -Otherwise it would be quite probable that -holes would be burned in the work before the -solder would melt. There are exceptions to this -rule, however; for example, lead burning, where -one piece of lead is fused to another. As also -with Britannia metal, it can be, and is, soldered -with its own material, but it would be likely to -have holes burned in it occasionally, and to avoid -this a solder mixed for that purpose should be -prepared. Two receipts are given here for quick -melting solders that are suitable for this work. -The first is preferred, but the second will answer -the purpose.</p> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>Solder No. 1: Procure 4 ounces of pure lead, -4 ounces of pure tin, and 2 ounces of bismuth. -The lead should be melted first and thoroughly -stirred and cleaned. It should then be allowed to -cool to the melting temperature of the tin, which -should then be added. Lastly add the bismuth. -The whole should then be stirred and poured into -a suitable mold into very thin strips, about the -size of a No. 8 wire, making strips of solder that -can be rolled up and carried in the pocket.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Solder No. 2: This solder is composed of two -parts of tin and one part of lead. These should -be mixed as described above. To have success -in making solders several points must be observed. -The metal melting at the highest temperature -should be melted first, which must then -be allowed to drop to the melting temperature of -the next metal to be added, and when ready to -pour into molds the mixture must be stirred, as -the specific gravity of the several metals differs -considerably, and unless constant stirring is resorted -to the mixture will partially separate upon -cooling, and the result is an irregular solder that -will not do the work.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Practicing the Blowing.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>Now, for practice, take two pieces of ¼-inch -lead tubing and prepare them as for a cup joint, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>by spreading one end with the bending iron and -rasping the other end to fit the cup, as shown in -<em>a</em>, Fig. 33. Support them as you best can in an -upright position. Flux the joint with rosin. -Then take the solder in the left hand, set the -lighted candle at the right hight and distance -from the joint, as shown at B, Fig. 47, which -leaves the right hand free to manage the blow -pipe. Then heat the joint with the flame, and, -as it gets hot, touch the joint with the solder, -and when it reaches the melting temperature of -the solder a drop of it will detach itself and flow -clear around the joint, making a smooth, clean -joint that is stronger than the pipe itself.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Joints made in this manner present a handsome -and workmanlike appearance to the mechanical -eye. Practice diligently on the lead -pipe until you have become so proficient that you -can flow the solder all through the joint without -withdrawing the flame. Then procure some ⅜-inch -block tin pipe, and, when that can be soldered -perfectly, the beginner can consider himself -sufficiently proficient to practice on flat seams -on Britannia metal.</p> - -<h3 class='c010'>Soldering Britannia Metal.</h3> - -<p class='c011'>For working Britannia metal the candle cannot -be used, as the dripping grease will cover the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>work and seriously interfere with the flowing -solder. The beginner must provide himself with -an alcohol or kerosene torch. A good form of -torch, manufactured and sold for electricians' -use, is shown in Fig. 48. The alcohol gives a -clean flame, but by comparison is somewhat expensive. -The kerosene gives a flame that can be -concentrated on a small surface with fully as -much heat, and if care is taken to allow only the -blue flame to touch the work, it is fully as clean -and cheaper.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id012'> -<img src='images/i_133a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 48.—Alcohol or Kerosene Torch.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_133b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 49.—A Specially Constructed Torch.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>The burning kerosene torch gives off a dirty -smell and smoke, which makes it disagreeable to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>handle, but this is a case of take your choice, and -it is left to the beginner to use either, as they will -both do the work satisfactorily. It is also necessary, -in doing this work, to have the blow pipe -attached to the torch and connected to the mouth -with a piece of very small rubber tube. This will -leave one hand free to apply the flux and hold the -solder. The flame can also be quickly placed in -any position or directed to any portion of the -work without allowing the work to cool. The -alcohol torch for this work should be so constructed -that it can be held in a horizontal or inverted -position without spilling the contents of -the torch.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The handiest, as also the cheapest, torch to -make is the one shown in Fig. 49. It consists of -a can 3 inches high made in the shape of a frustum -of a scalene cone. The tube B should be ¼ -inch in diameter, and must run parallel with the -flaring side and extend half way to the bottom -of the can, as <em>e</em>. Then, when the torch is tipped -to solder horizontal work, the alcohol will flow -into the space <em>a</em>, leaving the alcohol to supply the -wick to be drawn up by capillary attraction. This -tube is made of ¼-inch brass tubing, bent to -form an angle with the can, as shown.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span> -<img src='images/i_135.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 50.—Using the Torch on a Flat Seam.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>A screw and cap with a seat, such as is used -on brass lamps, is obtained, and a hole punched -in the cap <em>c</em> just large enough to receive the tube -B. The screw is soldered into the opening of the -can at D. The wick, which is formed of many -strands of candle wicking rolled tightly together, -is pulled through the tube by means of a wire -hook, and left sufficiently long to lie in the space -<em>a</em>, so that it will always lie in the alcohol. This -tube is placed through the hole at D, and allowed -to project about ¾ inch outside of the can. Wicking -is then wound around the tube and forced -into the socket formed in the screw D. The cap -is then slipped over the tube at <em>c</em>, and screwed -down tight on the wicking, which will make a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>tight joint at D, and will hold the tube firmly in -place.</p> - -<p class='c000'>When necessary to fill the torch the tube can -easily be removed and the torch filled. A separate -filling screw can be used if desired. Even -with this form of torch an excess of alcohol will -occasionally get into the wick when used in a -horizontal position and increase the size of the -blaze. But when this happens the torch can be -brought to an upright position for a moment, -which will drain the wick and bring the blaze to -its proper size.</p> - -<p class='c000'>The blow pipe for this torch is made from a -piece of very small copper or brass tubing. The -end intended for the tip should be bent to the -angle required, as shown at <em>f</em>, Fig. 49. It should -be fastened to the torch by means of a clamp, <em>g</em>, -soldered to the flaring side of the torch. This -clamp should be so arranged that the blow pipe -can be adjusted to the requirements of the blaze. -This clamp consists of a short piece of brass. A -hole is drilled in one end to allow the blow pipe -to pass through, while the other end is filed to fit -the bevel of the can to which it is soldered. The -blow pipe can be held in position with a wedge, -or a hole can be drilled and tapped and a small -screw inserted which will hold the blow pipe -<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>firmly in place. The tip of the blow pipe should -not be larger than 1-32 inch. The rubber tube -can then be attached to the projecting end of the -blow pipe at <em>h</em>, which is then ready for use.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_137.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 51.—Cutting Metal for a Butler's Pantry Sink.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'>Owing to the Britannia metal melting at such -a low temperature, it would be well for the beginner -to practice on pieces of 2-pound sheet lead. -Seams on this class of work are made by butting -the edges of the metal, as these seams are not -supposed to show. The seams are prepared by -truing the edges and then beveling the edges with -the shave hook so that when brought together a -V-shaped groove is formed. This is then fluxed -with a small amount of powdered rosin. A drop -of the quick melting solder is then melted from -the strip and allowed to drop on the seam. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>flame is then applied to the sheets, and as the -solder flows the flame must be kept slightly in -advance of it, Fig. 50. Care must be taken to -heat the sheets only enough to cause the solder -to flow. Otherwise the seam will not appear full. -The beginner should experience no trouble in -soldering these lead seams, and when perfect control -of the torch and flame is had, pieces of Britannia -metal should be substituted for the lead. -These seams are prepared and fluxed just as for -lead.</p> - -<p class='c000'>Britannia metal is fast becoming the favorite -lining for splash and drip boards on butler's pantry -sinks, as also for lining the work benches in -saloons. It is soft enough to allow the most delicate -china to be laid on it without danger of chipping, -and is also very easy to keep clean. It takes -a high polish and always looks well. The method -of cutting the metal for a butler's pantry sink is -shown in Fig. 51, the dotted lines showing the -actual dimensions of the article to be covered, -while the full lines show the laps required to -cover the edges of the board. This metal is -harder than lead, and will not dress smooth with -the dresser. Any uneven spots must be pressed -down with a hot flatiron. The method of turning -the edges is shown at <em>a</em>. The bending iron is -heated and rubbed over the edge, gradually turning -<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>the edges until they are at their proper position. -The iron must be constantly heated to insure -the best results, and if properly done no -wrinkles will appear. A lined work bench is -also shown in Fig. 52, which shows the method -of putting in the bar washer. The sheet metal -must be cut and fitted to its place and all the -seams possible should be soldered before placing -the metal in position. The edges should be tacked -on the under side of the work, when practicable, -with copper tacks.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_139.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic001'> -<p><em>Fig. 52.—A Lined Work Bench, with Bar Washer.</em></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c000'><span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>Sooner or later the blow pipe solderer will be -called upon to make repairs on Britannia metal, -and will be surprised to find that it will be impossible -to solder the metal, owing to the excess of -moisture under it. The best way to overcome -this, which is practically the only trouble that -occurs, is to cut out a small square patch. The -edge can be cleaned and a patch of new metal -carefully fitted into the hole. When ready to begin -soldering, a piece of blotting paper should be -inserted between the patch and board. This -paper will absorb all the moisture and allow the -seam to be neatly soldered. The man who makes -himself familiar with the blow pipe and torch -soon finds himself in a different class from the -ordinary everyday mechanic, and if mechanical -ability be accompanied with sobriety and stability, -the possessor will always command a good -steady income.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div>THE END.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span> - <h2 class='c005'>INDEX.</h2> -</div> - -<ul class='index c002'> - <li class='c014'>Acid Chamber, Framing, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Acid Chamber Work, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Acid, How Applied, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Acids, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Action of Generator, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Addition of Acid, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Air and Gas, Regulating Volume and Pressure, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Air Holder, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Air Pressure, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Alcohol Torch and Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Apparatus for Lead Burning, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Arsenic, Poisonous Flame, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Arsenic Released from Acid on Zinc, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Bellows Air Holder, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Blow Pipe, Kirkwood, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Blow Pipe, Mouth, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Blow Pipe Practice with Candle, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Blow Pipe, Walmsley Compound, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Blue Vitriol or Copperas, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Bottom for Generator, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Britannia Metal for Repairing, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Britannia Metal Soft Soldering, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Britannia Metal Work, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Britannia Metal Work with Torch and Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Burner, Kirkwood Lead, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Burner Tips, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Burns and Their Treatment, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Candle Blow Pipe Practice, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Care of Apparatus, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Cautions, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Charging and Cleaning Screws, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Charging Generator, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Chemical Tanks, How Lined, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - <li class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>Chipping Knife for Lead, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Cleaning Generator, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Colors of Flame, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Connecting Apparatus, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Cup, Scrubbing, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Cup, Scrubbing, How Made, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Cutting Heavy Lead Straight, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Explosions, What to Do When They Occur, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Fire Trap, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Flame Management, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Flame Under Different Pressures, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Flat Butt Seam, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Framing Acid Chamber, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Gas from Gasoline, How Generated, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Gas Pressure, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Gasometer Air Holder, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator, Charging, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator, Cleaning, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator Construction, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator Frame, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator Materials, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator Pipe, How Fitted, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Generator Seams, How Burned, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Horizontal Butt Seam, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Horizontal Lap Seam, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Hydrogen and Air, Effect of Mixing, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Hydrogen Apparatus, Special, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Hydrogen from Water, How Made, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Hydrogen Gas and Its Properties, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Hydrogen Gas, How Made, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Hydrogen Proved Lighter Than Air, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Illuminating Gas Burning, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Inverted Butt Seam, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Inverted Corner Seam, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Inverted Lap Seam, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Joint for Through Burning, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Kirkwood Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> - <li class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>Kirkwood Lead Burner, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Knife for Cutting Lead, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Lap Seam, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Lead Burning Explained, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Lead Headed Nail, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Lead Sheets for Tank, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Lining Chemical Tanks, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Mixing Fork, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Mouth Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Nail, Lead Headed, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Pipe Seams, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Pressure for Working Gas and Air, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Repairing with Britannia Metal, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Round Pipe Butt Seam, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Round Pipe Lap Seam, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Round Pipe, Tee Joint, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Scrubbing Cup, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Scrubbing Cup, How Made, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Butt, on Round Pipe, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Flat Butt, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Horizontal Butt, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Horizontal Lap, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Inverted Butt, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Inverted Corner, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Inverted Lap, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Lap, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Lap, on Round Pipe, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Through, on Round Pipe, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Upright Lap, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seam, Upright Butt, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seams, Different Kinds of, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seams, How Prepared, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Seams, Pipe, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Sink, Bar and Washer, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Sink, Butlers' Pantry, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Soft Solder, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Soft Solder Formulæ, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - <li class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>Solder, Soft, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Special Hydrogen Apparatus, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Staging for Acid Tank, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Straps for Tank Lining, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Tanks, How Made, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Tee Joint on Round Pipe, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Test for Hydrogen, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Testing Apparatus, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Through Burning, Joint, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Through Seam on Round Pipe, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Tips, Burner, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Tips, Sizes of, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Torch, Alcohol and Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Trap, Fire, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Upright Butt Seam, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Upright Lap Seam, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Vitriol, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Vitriol Action on Zinc, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - <li class='c002'>Walmsley Compound Blow Pipe, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> - <li class='c014'>Water Pressure Air Holder, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> -</ul> - -<div class='tnotes'> - -<div class='chapter'> - <h2 class='c005'>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES</h2> -</div> - <ol class='ol_1 c002'> - <li>Silently corrected typographical errors. - - </li> - <li>Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed. - </li> - </ol> - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Art of Lead Burning, by C. H. Fay - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF LEAD BURNING *** - -***** This file should be named 52835-h.htm or 52835-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/8/3/52835/ - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, Chris Curnow and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - - -</pre> - - </body> - <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.56b on 2016-08-17 17:01:32 GMT --> -</html> |