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diff --git a/5272-h/5272-h.htm b/5272-h/5272-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1da5015 --- /dev/null +++ b/5272-h/5272-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,855 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="us-ascii"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Sea Fogs, by Robert Louis Stevenson + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Sea Fogs, by Robert Louis Stevenson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Sea Fogs + +Author: Robert Louis Stevenson + +Release Date: June 1, 2009 [EBook #5272] +Last Updated: November 26, 2012 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SEA FOGS *** + + + + +Produced by David Schwan, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE SEA FOGS + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Robert Louis Stevenson + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h3> + With an Introduction by Thomas Rutherford Bacon + </h3> + <h5> + Western Classics No. 1 + </h5> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A sheeted spectre white and tall, + The cold mist climbs the castle wall + And lays its hand upon thy cheek. + + —Longfellow. +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <table summary="" style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto"> + <tr> + <td> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_INTR"> Introduction </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> THE SEA FOGS </a> + </p> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Introduction + </h2> + <p> + Robert Louis Stevenson first came to California in 1879 for the purpose of + getting married. The things that delayed his marriage are sufficiently set + forth in his "Letters" (edited by Sidney Colvin) and in his "Life" + (written by Graham Balfour). It is here necessary to refer only to the + last of the obstacles, the breaking down of his health. It is in + connection with the evil thing that came to him at this time that he first + makes mention of "the sea fogs," that beset a large part of the California + coast. He speaks of them as poisonous; and poisonous they are to any one + who is afflicted with pulmonary weakness, but bracing and glorious to + others. They give the charm of climate to dwellers around the great bay. + How he took this first very serious attack of the terrible malady is + indicated in the letter to Edmund Gosse, dated April 16, 1880. His + attitude toward death is shown here, and is further shown in his little + paper AEs Triplex, in which he successfully vindicates his generation from + the charge of cowardice in the face of death. Stevenson's two + distinguishing characteristics were his courage and his determination to + be happy as the right way of making other people happy. His courage, far + more than change of scene and climate, gave him fourteen more years in + which to contribute to the sweetness and light of the world. These years + were made fruitful to others by his determined happiness, a happiness in + which the main factor, outside of his own determination, came from the + companionship which his marriage brought to him. The great principles by + which he lived influenced those who did not know him personally, through + his gift of writing. He always maintained that it was not a gift but an + achievement, and that any one could write as well as he by taking as much + pains. We may well doubt the soundness of this theory, but we cannot doubt + the spiritual attitude from which it came. It came from no mock humility, + but from a feeling that nothing was creditable to him except what he did. + He asked no credit for the talents committed to his charge. He asked + credit only for the use be made of the talents. + </p> + <p> + Stevenson was married May 19, 1880. His health, which had delayed the + marriage, determined the character of the honeymoon. He must get away from + the coast and its fogs. His honeymoon experiences are recorded in one of + the most delightful of his minor writings, "The Silverado Squatters." He + went, with his wife, his stepson and a dog, to squat on the eastern + shoulder of Mount Saint Helena, a noble mountain which closes and + dominates the Napa Valley, a wonderful and fertile valley, running + northward from the bay of San Francisco. Silverado was a deserted + mining-camp. Stevenson has intimated that there are more ruined cities in + California than in the land of Bashan, and in one of these he took up his + residence for about two months, "camping" in the deserted quarters of the + extinct mining company. Had he gone a little beyond the toll-house, just + over the shoulder of the mountain, he would probably never have seen the + glory of "the sea fogs." It would have been better for his health but + worse for English literature. + </p> + <p> + My first knowledge of that glory came to me twenty years ago. I had come + to California to care for one dearly beloved by me, who was fighting the + same fight that Stevenson fought, and against the same enemy, and who was + fighting it just as bravely. I took him to the summit of the Santa Cruz + Mountains in the hope that we might escape the fogs. As I watched on the + porch of the little cottage where he lay, I saw night after night what I + believe to be the most beautiful of all natural phenomena, the sea fog of + the Pacific, seen from above. Under the full moon, or under the early sun + which slowly withers it away, the great silver sea with its dark islands + of redwood seemed to me the most wonderful of things. With my wonder and + delight, perhaps making them more poignant, was the fear lest the glory + should mount too high, and lay its attractive hand on my beloved. The fog + has been dear to me ever since. I have often grumbled at it when I was in + it or under it, but when I have seen it from above, that first thrill of + wonder and delight has come back to me —always. Whether on the + Berkeley hills I see its irresistible columns moving through the Golden + Gate across the bay to take possession of the land, or whether I stand on + the height of Tamalpais and look at the white, tangled flood below,— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "My heart leaps up when I behold." +</pre> + <p> + It remains to me— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "A vision, a delight and a desire." +</pre> + <p> + When the beauty of the fog first got hold of me, I wondered whether any + one had given literary expression to its supreme charm. I searched the + works of some of the better-known California poets, not quite without + result. I was familiar with what seem to me the best of the serious verses + of Bret Harte, the lines on San Francisco,—wherein the city is + pictured as a penitent Magdalen, cowled in the grey of the Franciscans, + —the soft pale grey of the sea fog. The literary value of the figure + is hardly injured by the cold fog that the penitence of this particular + Magdalen has never been of an enduring quality. It is to be noted that + what Harte speaks of is not the beauty of the fog, but its sobriety and + dignity. + </p> + <p> + Sill, with his susceptibility to the infinite variety of nature and with + the spark of the divine fire which burned in him, refers often to some of + the effects of the fog, such as the wonderful sunset colors on the + Berkeley hills in summer. But I find only one direct allusion to the + beauty of the fog itself:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1)"There lies a little city in the hills; + White are its roofs, dim is each dwelling's door, + And peace with perfect rest its bosom fills. + + "There the pure mist, the pity of the sea, + Comes as a white, soft hand, and reaches o'er + And touches its still face most tenderly." +</pre> + <p> + In 1887 I had not read "The Silverado Squatters." Part of it had been + published in Scribner's Magazine. It was only in the following year that I + got hold of the book and found an almost adequate expression of my own + feeling about the sea fogs. Stevenson did not know all their beauty, for + he was not here long enough, but he could tell what he saw. In other + words, he had a gift which is denied to most of us. + </p> + <p> + Silverado is now a quite impossible place for squatting. When I first + tried to enter, I found it so given over to poison-oak and rattlesnakes + that I did not care to pursue my investigations very far. I did not know + at that time that I was quite immune from the poison of the oak and that + the California rattlesnake was quite so friendly and harmless an animal as + John Muir has since assured us that he is. The last time that I passed + Silverado, it was accessible only by the aid of a gang of wood-choppers. + </p> + <p> + Curiously, the last great fog effect that I have seen was almost the same + which Stevenson has described. Last summer we had been staying for a month + with our friends who have a summer home about three miles beyond + Stevenson's "toll-house." It is, I believe, the most beautiful + country-seat on this round earth, and its free and gentle hospitality + cannot be surpassed. We left this delightful place of sojourning between + three and four o'clock in the morning to catch the early train from + Calistoga. Our steep climb up to the toll-house was under the broad smile + of the moon, which gradually gave way to the brilliant dawn. When we + passed the toll-house, the whole Napa Valley should have been revealed to + us, but it was not. The fog had surged through it and had hidden it. What + we saw was better than the beautiful Napa Valley. I should like to tell + what we saw, but I cannot,—"For what can the man do who cometh after + the king?" + </p> + <p> + (1) This exquisite little poem is unaccountably omitted from the Household + (and presumably complete) Edition of Sill's poems issued by Houghton, + Mifflin & Co., 1906. It is found in the little volume, "Poems," by + Edward Rowland Sill, published by the same firm at an earlier date. + Mountain View Cemetery is no longer a "little city." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE SEA FOGS + </h2> + <p> + A change in the colour of the light usually called me in the morning. By a + certain hour, the long, vertical chinks in our western gable, where the + boards had shrunk and separated, flashed suddenly into my eyes as stripes + of dazzling blue, at once so dark and splendid that I used to marvel how + the qualities could be combined. At an earlier hour, the heavens in that + quarter were still quietly coloured, but the shoulder of the mountain + which shuts in the canyon already glowed with sunlight in a wonderful + compound of gold and rose and green; and this too would kindle, although + more mildly and with rainbow tints, the fissures of our crazy gable. If I + were sleeping heavily, it was the bold blue that struck me awake; if more + lightly, then I would come to myself in that earlier and fairer light. + </p> + <p> + One Sunday morning, about five, the first brightness called me. I rose and + turned to the east, not for my devotions, but for air. The night had been + very still. The little private gale that blew every evening in our canyon, + for ten minutes or perhaps a quarter of an hour, had swiftly blown itself + out; in the hours that followed, not a sigh of wind had shaken the + treetops; and our barrack, for all its breaches, was less fresh that + morning than of wont. But I had no sooner reached the window than I forgot + all else in the sight that met my eyes, and I made but two bounds into my + clothes, and down the crazy plank to the platform. + </p> + <p> + The sun was still concealed below the opposite hilltops, though it was + shining already, not twenty feet above my head, on our own mountain slope. + But the scene, beyond a few near features, was entirely changed. Napa + Valley was gone; gone were all the lower slopes and woody foothills of the + range; and in their place, not a thousand feet below me, rolled a great + level ocean. It was as though I had gone to bed the night before, safe in + a nook of inland mountains and had awakened in a bay upon the coast. I had + seen these inundations from below; at Calistoga I had risen and gone + abroad in the early morning, coughing and sneezing, under fathoms on + fathoms of gray sea vapour, like a cloudy sky—a dull sight for the + artist, and a painful experience for the invalid. But to sit aloft one's + self in the pure air and under the unclouded dome of heaven, and thus look + down on the submergence of the valley, was strangely different and even + delightful to the eyes. Far away were hilltops like little islands. + Nearer, a smoky surf beat about the foot of precipices and poured into all + the coves of these rough mountains. The colour of that fog ocean was a + thing never to be forgotten. For an instant, among the Hebrides and just + about sundown, I have seen something like it on the sea itself. But the + white was not so opaline; nor was there, what surprisingly increased the + effect, that breathless crystal stillness over all. Even in its gentlest + moods the salt sea travails, moaning among the weeds or lisping on the + sand; but that vast fog ocean lay in a trance of silence, nor did the + sweet air of the morning tremble with a sound. + </p> + <p> + As I continued to sit upon the dump, I began to observe that this sea was + not so level as at first sight it appeared to be. Away in the extreme + south, a little hill of fog arose against the sky above the general + surface, and as it had already caught the sun it shone on the horizon like + the topsails of some giant ship. There were huge waves, stationary, as it + seemed, like waves in a frozen sea; and yet, as I looked again, I was not + sure but they were moving after all, with a slow and august advance. And + while I was yet doubting, a promontory of the hills some four or five + miles away, conspicuous by a bouquet of tall pines, was in a single + instant overtaken and swallowed up. It reappeared in a little, with its + pines, but this time as an islet and only to be swallowed up once more and + then for good. This set me looking nearer, and I saw that in every cove + along the line of mountains the fog was being piled in higher and higher, + as though by some wind that was inaudible to me. I could trace its + progress, one pine tree first growing hazy and then disappearing after + another; although sometimes there was none of this forerunning haze, but + the whole opaque white ocean gave a start and swallowed a piece of + mountain at a gulp. It was to flee these poisonous fogs that I had left + the seaboard, and climbed so high among the mountains. And now, behold, + here came the fog to besiege me in my chosen altitudes, and yet came so + beautifully that my first thought was of welcome. + </p> + <p> + The sun had now gotten much higher, and through all the gaps of the hills + it cast long bars of gold across that white ocean. An eagle, or some other + very great bird of the mountain, came wheeling over the nearer pinetops, + and hung, poised and something sideways, as if to look abroad on that + unwonted desolation, spying, perhaps with terror, for the eyries of her + comrades. Then, with a long cry, she disappeared again toward Lake County + and the clearer air. At length it seemed to me as if the flood were + beginning to subside. The old landmarks, by whose disappearance I had + measured its advance, here a crag, there a brave pine tree, now began, in + the inverse order, to make their reappearance into daylight. I judged all + danger of the fog was over. This was not Noah's flood; it was but a + morning spring, and would now drift out seaward whence it came. So, + mightily relieved, and a good deal exhilarated by the sight, I went into + the house to light the fire. + </p> + <p> + I suppose it was nearly seven when I once more mounted the platform to + look abroad. The fog ocean had swelled up enormously since last I saw it; + and a few hundred feet below me, in the deep gap where the Toll House + stands and the road runs through into Lake County, it had already topped + the slope, and was pouring over and down the other side like driving + smoke. The wind had climbed along with it; and though I was still in calm + air, I could see the trees tossing below me, and their long, strident + sighing mounted to me where I stood. + </p> + <p> + Half an hour later, the fog had surmounted all the ridge on the opposite + side of the gap, though a shoulder of the mountain still warded it out of + our canyon. Napa Valley and its bounding hills were now utterly blotted + out. The fog, sunny white in the sunshine, was pouring over into Lake + County in a huge, ragged cataract, tossing treetops appearing and + disappearing in the spray. The air struck with a little chill, and set me + coughing. It smelt strong of the fog, like the smell of a washing-house, + but with a shrewd tang of the sea-salt. + </p> + <p> + Had it not been for two things—the sheltering spur which answered as + a dyke, and the great valley on the other side which rapidly engulfed + whatever mounted—our own little platform in the canyon must have + been already buried a hundred feet in salt and poisonous air. As it was, + the interest of the scene entirely occupied our minds. We were set just + out of the wind, and but just above the fog; we could listen to the voice + of the one as to music on the stage; we could plunge our eyes down into + the other, as into some flowing stream from over the parapet of a bridge; + thus we looked on upon a strange, impetuous, silent, shifting exhibition + of the powers of nature, and saw the familiar landscape changing from + moment to moment like figures in a dream. + </p> + <p> + The imagination loves to trifle with what is not. Had this been indeed the + deluge, I should have felt more strongly, but the emotion would have been + similar in kind. I played with the idea as the child flees in delighted + terror from the creations of his fancy. The look of the thing helped me. + And when at last I began to flee up the mountain, it was indeed partly to + escape from the raw air that kept me coughing, but it was also part in + play. + </p> + <p> + As I ascended the mountainside, I came once more to overlook the upper + surface of the fog; but it wore a different appearance from what I had + beheld at daybreak. For, first, the sun now fell on it from high overhead, + and its surface shone and undulated like a great nor'land moor country, + sheeted with untrodden morning snow. And, next, the new level must have + been a thousand or fifteen hundred feet higher than the old, so that only + five or six points of all the broken country below me still stood out. + Napa Valley was now one with Sonoma on the west. On the hither side, only + a thin scattered fringe of bluffs was unsubmerged; and through all the + gaps the fog was pouring over, like an ocean into the blue clear sunny + country on the east. There it was soon lost; for it fell instantly into + the bottom of the valleys, following the watershed; and the hilltops in + that quarter were still clear cut upon the eastern sky. + </p> + <p> + Through the Toll House gap and over the near ridges on the other side, the + deluge was immense. A spray of thin vapour was thrown high above it, + rising and falling, and blown into fantastic shapes. The speed of its + course was like a mountain torrent. Here and there a few treetops were + discovered and then whelmed again; and for one second, the bough of a dead + pine beckoned out of the spray like the arm of a drowning man. But still + the imagination was dissatisfied, still the ear waited for something more. + Had this indeed been water (as it seemed so, to the eye), with what a + plunge of reverberating thunder would it have rolled upon its course, + disembowelling mountains and deracinating pines And yet water it was and + sea-water at that—true Pacific billows, only somewhat rarefied, + rolling in mid-air among the hilltops. + </p> + <p> + I climbed still higher, among the red rattling gravel and dwarf underwood + of Mount Saint Helena, until I could look right down upon Silverado, and + admire the favoured nook in which it lay. The sunny plain of fog was + several hundred feet higher; behind the protecting spur a gigantic + accumulation of cottony vapour threatened, with every second to blow over + and submerge our homestead; but the vortex setting past the Toll House was + too strong; and there lay our little platform, in the arms of the deluge, + but still enjoying its unbroken sunshine. About eleven, however, thin + spray came flying over the friendly buttress, and I began to think the fog + had hunted out its Jonah after all. But it was the last effort. The wind + veered while we were at dinner, and began to blow squally from the + mountain summit and by half-past one all that world of sea fogs was + utterly routed and flying here and there into the south in little rags of + cloud. And instead of a lone sea-beach, we found ourselves once more + inhabiting a high mountainside, with the clear green country far below us, + and the light smoke of Calistoga blowing in the air. + </p> + <p> + This was the great Russian campaign for that season. Now and then, in the + early morning, a little white lakelet of fog would be seen far down in + Napa Valley but the heights were not again assailed, nor was the + surrounding world again shut off from Silverado. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Here Ends No. One the Western Classics Being The Sea Fogs by Robert + Louis Stevenson With an Introduction by Thomas Rutherford Bacon & A + Photogravure Frontispiece After A Painting by Albertine Randall Wheelan + of this First Edition One Thousand Copies Have Been Issued Printed Upon + Fabriano Handmade Paper the Typography Designed by J. H. Nash Published + by Paul Elder and Company & Done Into A Book for Them at the Tomoye + Press in the City of New York MCMVII +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Sea Fogs, by Robert Louis Stevenson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SEA FOGS *** + +***** This file should be named 5272-h.htm or 5272-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/7/5272/ + +Produced by David Schwan, and David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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