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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Travels and adventures in South and Central America - First series: Life in the Llanos of Venezuela - -Author: Ramón Páez - -Release Date: July 21, 2016 [EBook #52612] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - [Illustration: Map of Venezuela.] - - - - - TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES - - IN - - SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA. - - FIRST SERIES: - - Life in the Llanos of Venezuela. - - BY - - DON RAMON PAEZ. - - “NIHIL ARDUUM MORTALIBUS.” - - NEW YORK: - CHARLES SCRIBNER & CO., 654 BROADWAY. - 1868. - - - “Oh! it is the land where brightest hues - Gild sunset skies and glow in morning dews - Where flowers the fairest ever seem to bloom, - Of the world’s empire, to adorn the tomb. - Where blandest breezes on elastic wing, - Gladness and vigor to the bosom bring; - Where hang at once, within thy sunny bowers, - On citron trees, the fruitage and the flowers; - Where hearts are ardent as the sun’s they feel, - And buoyant as the gales that o’er them steal; - Where maiden’s love as close, as sweet will twine, - As cling the tendrils of their native vine; - Where the deep lustre of soft beauty’s eye - Transcends the brightness of its own clear sky.” - GODFREY’S “_Cordelia_.” - - Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by - RAMON PAEZ. - -In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the - Southern District of New York. - - - TO - - MORRIS KETCHUM, ESQ., - - THE - - KIND AND CONSTANT FRIEND - - TO THE - - EXILED AUTHOR. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -It was my lot several years ago--I need not state how many--to be -brought forth into this world amid the wild scenes which I propose to -describe. Later in life I was fortunate enough to be sent by my parents -to England, for the purpose of finishing my education under the tuition -of the learned fathers at the College of Stonyhurst. While there, I had -the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the inimitable author of -“Wanderings in South America,” Charles Waterton, Esq., who years before -had also been an inmate of that celebrated institution, and whose book -became at once my favorite study, on account of the graphic descriptions -it contains of animals and objects with which I was already familiar. -The works of the distinguished traveller, Baron von Humboldt, who first -made those regions known to the civilized world, next afforded me an -endless source of scientific enjoyment, developing in me an early taste -for the natural history and physical wonders of my native land. - -On my return home, I immediately turned my steps toward - - “Those matted woods ... - Where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey,” - -anxious to study nature in her own sanctuary; but, owing to the -unfortunate state of affairs in the country, I did not enjoy long my -cherished dreams of exploring it through all its extent. Sufficient -information was, however, obtained in my rambles through the plains, to -enlarge upon a subject scarcely touched upon by travellers. - -Thus from my earliest days have I been associated with the scenes -forming the text of the present narrative, which I venture to lay before -the public, trusting more in the indulgence and characteristic -generosity of the Anglo-Saxon race toward foreigners, than in my own -ability to fulfil the arduous undertaking. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -CHAP. PAGE - -INTRODUCTION, xi - -I. THE DEPARTURE, 1 - -II. THE MORROS, 16 - -III. THE LLANOS, 26 - -IV. THE LLANEROS, 40 - -V. SCENES AT THE FISHERY, 57 - -VI. WILD HORSES, 74 - -VII. ACROSS THE PAMPAS, 85 - -VIII. LA PORTUGUESA, 99 - -IX. THE APURE RIVER, 116 - -X. SAVANNAS OF APURE, 133 - -XI. EL FRIO, 148 - -XII. BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS, 163 - -XIII. THE RODEO, 175 - -XIV. BRANDING SCENES, 189 - -XV. PLANTS AND SNAKES, 202 - -XVI. TIGER STORIES, 222 - -XVII. SHOOTING ADVENTURES, 238 - -XVIII. MATA TOTUMO, 250 - -XIX. MONKEY NOTIONS, 262 - -XX. AMONG THE CROCODILES, 281 - -XXI. THE CIMARRONERA, 294 - -XXII. LOS BORALES, 315 - -XXIII. OUR LEADER, 329 - -XXIV. SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO, 362 - -XXV. THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER, 378 - -XXVI. THE LAND OF EL DORADO, 391 - -XXVII. THE OIL WELLS OF THE ORINOCO, 430 - -XXVIII. HOMEWARD BOUND, 448 - -XXIX. CALABOZO, 460 - - - - -NOTE. - - -The favorable--I may say flattering--notice which the previous editions -of the _Wild Scenes in South America_ received from the press of this -country, and more especially from that of Great Britain, has encouraged -the Author of that work to make several material changes, not only in -the text--whole chapters having been stricken out and their place -supplied by new matter--but in the general plan of the book, with the -object of presenting it to the young American reader--to whom this -edition is especially devoted--in a form which will convey a more -comprehensive view of the wonders of a region scarcely known here, -except to the scientific through the works of Baron von Humboldt and -other European travellers who have visited it from time to time in the -pursuit of knowledge, or for pleasure. It is to be hoped, however, that -with the increased facilities offered by the various lines of steamships -now plying regularly between this country and various points in South -America, a more lively interest than hitherto has been evinced here, -will be aroused among the citizens of the Great Republic towards -countries which, by their geographical position and other natural -advantages, are destined to become the emporiums of a vast trade with -the United States of North America. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - “Know’st thou the land where the citron grows, - Where midst its dark foliage the golden orange glows? - Thither, thither let us go.” - GOETHE. - - -TO YOUNG AMERICA: - -“Smart,” as the world over, you are acknowledged to be--in which opinion -I most heartily concur, having myself spent among you the best part of -my life--permit me to call your attention to one important fact which -has escaped your notice thus far, or rather that of your teachers, -namely, a better acquaintance with that vast and glorious portion of our -great continent lying at your very portals, South America--a region of -which you have only a faint idea from the meagre information supplied by -your School Geographies and occasional newspaper correspondents, but in -fact a land of wondrous exuberance and untold natural wealth, which -offers you a field of enterprise worthy of the founders of the States of -California and Oregon, and the Territories of Montana, Arizona, and -Colorado. - -It is a fact that while Europe, situated as it is far beyond our own -hemisphere, has always sent her _very best_ men to represent her in the -South American States, and to explore and report upon every thing worth -knowing, this country, America _par excellence_, has sent _none_ as yet -but broken down and quarrelsome politicians, who, according to the -statements of some of the leading periodicals of this country,[1] are -absolutely incompetent to fill their post with credit to the nation they -represent. To my own personal knowledge I can testify as to the class of -men sent afloat to Venezuela, one of whom had previously been master of -a tug-boat on the Orinoco and Apure rivers, but through political -influence at home was suddenly enabled to emerge from that obscure -though honorable calling to that of a diplomatic functionary, although -it is but fair to state that his social status in that country was in no -wise improved by his change of vocation. When his term of office -expired, with the change of administration at headquarters, he was duly -replaced by another, whose conduct was so disgraceful[2] that his -countrymen resident in the Republic petitioned the Government at home to -remove him forthwith, which was granted, but only to replace him by -another--since deceased--who, I am informed, was the only drunken man -seen in the streets of the capital. - -Thanks to the unaided efforts of a missionary gentleman, Rev. Mr. -Fletcher,[3] the magnificent empire of Brazil has lately been brought to -the notice of the people of the United States, who, quick to appreciate -the commercial advantages offered by a foreign country, when fully -demonstrated to them, have already established a line of steamers -between New York and the principal ports of the Empire. Outside of this -the people of this enterprising country have only had occasional -glimpses of the vast continent of South America, from the notes of -casual travellers and the official reports of Lieuts. Page, Herndon, and -Gibbon, of the navy, who confined their observations principally to the -practicability of navigating the two great rivers Amazon and La Plata, -already surveyed by their respective governments and explored from end -to end by several European travellers. It is to be hoped, however, that -the eminent naturalist, Agassiz, who lately visited the former river -with reference to a particular branch of science, will give us the -result of his explorations as clearly, and relieved of the -technicalities of scientific lore so common among naturalists, as the -distinguished artist Church, who several years ago penetrated, “on his -own hook,” to the _heart of the Andes_, has presented the grand and -beautiful ridge on canvass to the eyes of admiring thousands who have -gazed upon his admirable paintings, thus familiarising the outside world -with that picturesque region, and earning for himself a name second to -none in the estimation of the artistic world. - -North Americans cannot longer _ignore_ that great section of our -continent which, during thirteen years, _warred to the knife_ against -her powerful antagonists, Spain and Portugal, for the possession of -those political principles proclaimed years before by their own Great -Republic; for it is a fact, that while most of the European nations -hastened to acknowledge the independence of the South American States, -the United States of America were the last to recognize them; and if we -of the South have not been as successful in the establishment of -Republican Institutions as our brethren of the North, the fault is not -ours, but is to be attributed to the “peculiar institutions” implanted -on our soil by its fanatical and remorseless conquerors, so utterly -inimical to enlightened educational development.[4] - -And now look, on the other hand, to the host of distinguished names that -figure among the European representatives and explorers in the various -sections of South America, and the advantages gained by the countries -they represent. At the head of all stands the illustrious Humboldt, who -was the first to penetrate that comparatively unknown region at the time -(1799), and to lay open her wondrous treasures before the civilized -world. Any eulogistic comments upon this truly great man are -superfluous: the world is filled with his fame, as radiant as the -celestial spheres above, which he overran likewise with his penetrating -mind, and after devoting nearly three quarters of a century to the study -of the Universe, he died only a few years ago at the advanced age of -ninety-two, in the full enjoyment of his mental faculties. His works are -the grandest monument of the nineteenth century. - -To Prussia we are indebted for the services of another resolute -explorer, Prince Adalbert, who fearlessly penetrated to the remotest -parts of Brazil, and the botanists, von Tschudi, Karzten, and Moritz, -who have enriched the European museums and conservatories with the -treasures of our Flora. Other parts of Germany have sent no less -distinguished individuals in the persons of Prince Maximilian of -Bavaria, and the great naturalists, Narterer, Spix, and von Martius, all -of whom have given to the scientific world the result of their -explorations in works of enduring fame. France ranks next in -distinguished names, such as La Condamine, D’Orvigni, Jussieu, St. -Hilaire, Bonpland (the companion of Humboldt), Depons, Lavayesse, -Webber, Liais, etc.; and Great Britain, with her Parishes and Fitzroys, -who surveyed and carefully sounded every estuary, bay, and inlet which -lie between the Plata and the Bay of Valparaiso, with the celebrated -naturalist, Darwin, as co-laborer; Sir Robert Schumbourgh, the -discoverer of that vegetable wonder, the Victoria Regia, and the -hitherto unknown sources of the great river Orinoco, the lake of Parime, -supposed in the seventeenth century to be the abode of a mighty and -resplendent Indian king--El Dorado--the gilded, from whom that veritable -land of gold, as it has subsequently been demonstrated, took the -name[5]--with other equally enterprising naturalists and explorers, such -as Waterton, Wallace, Bates, Vigne, Markham, and Spruce. Through the -efforts of the two last named, England has succeeded in transplanting -and successfully cultivating in the mountains of India the various -species of cinchona trees indigenous to the Andean range of mountains, -that yield that invaluable drug, quinine; while another enterprising -Englishman undertook to stock Australia with the Alpaca sheep of the -same region, at the risk of his life and fortune. - -Thus England, France, and Germany have secured the monopoly of the South -American trade, with total exclusion of this country, which has to pay -_cash_ for what the former obtain in exchange for the produce of their -manufactories. All these nations, moreover, appoint permanent -representatives, chosen from among their ablest diplomats, and keep them -there as long as they choose to remain, to enable them to become -thoroughly acquainted with the people and the peculiarities of the -country, endearing themselves to the inhabitants by their munificent -hospitality and courtly demeanor. Even distant and snow-bound Russia has -sent to South America her commissions of _savants_ and maintains there, -as well as Sweden, competent representatives, whose duty it is to report -to their respective governments on the progress of affairs and the -resources of those countries. - -I shall not close the list of European travellers and naturalists, with -whom I am acquainted, without adding those of Holland and Belgium, viz., -Mr. Langsberg, for many years Minister Plenipotentiary from the former -country to Venezuela, Baron Ponthos, and Messrs. Linden and Funk, who, -by their united efforts, have contributed to enlighten their countrymen -respecting the source from whence India-rubber emanates, and the kind of -trees that yield the valuable Calisaya and Angostura barks; what plants -yield the fragrant Vanilla and Tonka beans, the healing balsams of -Copaiva, Tolu, and Peru; and how indigo, cacao, and coffee are raised. -“Does cotton grow in Venezuela?” “Are there any railroads in Chile?” are -questions which have respectively been addressed to me and to the -accredited Minister of the latter flourishing republic to the United -States by persons enjoying the greatest advantages of education in this -country. Now, it is a well-known fact to European merchants that the -cotton raised in Venezuela ranks among the finest in the world; and as -regards railroads, Chile possesses some of the most admirable works of -the kind, due to the skill of North American engineers. - -But no wonder that so little is known here about South America, when one -of the standard School Geographies and most recent publications -describes the products of Venezuela in these few lines: - -“Its principal products are the _woods_ and _fruits_ of the forest and -the _cattle_ of the plains.” - -“Exports.--The principal exports are the _tropical fruits_, which grow -without cultivation; and hides, cattle, horses, and mules.” - -Any one would be led to suppose, from the perusal of the above -quotations, that the country at large is “in a state of nature,” and -that the inhabitants themselves are no better off than “the cattle of -the plains,” - - “Where at each step the stranger fears to wake - The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake; - Where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey, - And savage men more murderous still than they.” - --_The Deserted Village._ - -These things are only found in the depths of the primeval forest, or -amidst the labyrinths of rivers that traverse the vast extent of prairie -land or _llanos_ which form the subject of this book. These are the -grazing grounds as well as military school of the republic: the -agricultural portion lies north of this region, amidst the great chain -of mountains, which, detaching itself from the main Andean trunk in New -Granada, or Colombia, as it is now called, runs eastward along the -shores of the Caribbean Sea. The products of this region consist -principally, as the school-book quoted above states, in the tropical -fruits, not collected at random, as might be inferred from the above -meager statement, but through the most careful cultivation, as a -contemporary English traveller in that country rightly describes it in a -few lines. - -“July 11th.--Having got our passports, we started at about 3 P.M. for -San Pedro, distant about six leagues. The first three leagues lay -through the beautiful valley of Chacao (Caracas). Everything bore the -appearance of great prosperity. The road was as good as any in Europe. -The hedges were beautifully clipped; hardly a foot of ground could be -seen that was not in a high state of cultivation. The plantations were -numerous and in good order, and the long chimneys and black smoke showed -that even in this remote valley steam was rendering its thousand-handed -assistance. We crossed and recrossed the Rio Guaire several times before -we arrived at Antimano, some two leagues distant from Caracas. We met -several herds of wild cattle, being driven towards Caracas by the -llaneros in crimson or blue ponchos, mounted on high-picked saddles, -with their constant companion, the lasso, plaited into their horses’ -tails, and the long cattle-spears in their hands. The cattle were -magnificent-looking animals, and reminded me of the breed that one sees -in the bull-rings of old Spain. Coffee is more cultivated in the valley -of Chacao than any other crop, and it contributes in no small degree to -the beauty of the scenery.”[6] - -Besides coffee this country produces the famous _Cacao_ and indigo of -Caracas, sugar-cane, and cotton of superior quality, tobacco hardly -inferior to that of Cuba, especially the celebrated Varinas and Guacharo -kinds, rice, Indian-corn, and most of the cereals of northern latitudes, -according to the elevation above the sea level; and as to the products -gathered “in a state of nature,” such as sarsaparilla, India-rubber, -Piassaba, Vanilla, and Tonka beans, cabinet and dye-woods, their name is -legion, and would require a separate volume devoted to that particular -branch of scientific research, which the reader can find admirably -compiled in the works of Humboldt and Bonpland, St. Hilaire, Sir Robert -Schombourgh, Codazzi, and others. - -Now it is my purpose to introduce the young American reader to a -country-- - - “Where maidens’ love as close, as sweet will twine, - As cling the tendrils of their native vine,” - -and which hitherto seems to have been a sealed book to the future -“Merchant Princes” of the great North. Humboldt describes it thus, in -1802:-- - - -VENEZUELA. - -“CARACAS is the capital of a country nearly twice as large as Peru, and -now little inferior in extent to the kingdom of New Granada. This -country, which the Spanish government designates by the name of -Capitania-General de Caracas, or the United Provinces of Venezuela, has -nearly a million of inhabitants, among whom are sixty thousand slaves. -It comprises, along the coasts, New Andalusia, or the province of Cumana -(with the island of Margarita), Barcelona, Venezuela, or Caracas, Coro, -and Maracaibo: in the interior the Provinces of Barinas and Guiana; the -former situated on the rivers of Santo Domingo and the Apure, the latter -stretching along the Orinoco, the Casiquiare, the Atabapo, and the Rio -Negro. In a general view of the seven United Provinces of Tierra Firme, -we perceive that they form three distinct zones, extending from East to -West. - -“We find, first, cultivated land along the sea-shore, and near the chain -of the mountains on the coast; next, savannas or pasturages; and -finally, beyond the Orinoco, a third zone, that of the forests, into -which we can penetrate only by the rivers which traverse them. If the -native inhabitants of the forest lived entirely on the produce of the -chase, like those of the Missouri, we might say that the three zones, -into which we have divided the territory of Venezuela, picture the three -states of human society; the life of the wild hunter, in the woods of -the Orinoco; pastoral life in the savannas or llanos, and the -agricultural state, in the high valleys, and at the foot of the -mountains on the coast.”[7] - -And yet this favored region can be reached in from twelve to fifteen -days by sailing packets between Philadelphia and La Guaira; or, should -your _fast_ habits require it, we can avail ourselves of the Brazilian -line of steamships which will leave us at St. Thomas, where we shall -meet the little steamer plying regularly between both points, the whole -voyage being thus accomplished in eight days. As we are not in a hurry, -however, to get through our journey, we will, for the sake of -convenience and diversified amusement, follow the example of the -above-mentioned traveller, Sullivan, who, in company of a friend, made -the trip before us in a commodious yacht by the way of the West India -Islands; but having no craft of our own, we may be permitted to borrow -from the New York yacht squadron one of their idle cutters, which can -thus be better employed than in cruising round well-known fashionable -retreats during a few months of summer, and exposed for the rest of the -year to the hard knocks of a wintry climate. This is the best season to -visit the tropics, as well as the West Indies, when there is no fear of -the dreaded _vomito_ or sweeping hurricanes. - -Hardly a day passes without coming in sight of some lovely isle of the -Caribbean sea, which, like the “Queen of the Antilles,”--Cuba--rises -from amidst the placid waves, crowned with perpetual wreaths of fragrant -orange-blossoms and stately palms. Cuba, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, -Sta. Cruz, Antigua, Granada, Barbadoes, Martinique, Guadaloupe, Tobago, -and Trinidad, rise one after another in quick succession. When we reach -the last named and most lovely of all, on the eastern extremity of -Venezuela, we have the choice of either penetrating at once into the -field of our adventures by entering one of the numerous outlets of the -Orinoco, which here pours out its tribute to the mighty Atlantic through -a hundred mouths; or, following the line of coast to the westward, we -may reach a point near the fertile valleys of Aragua, where well-trained -horses for the sport and hardy llaneros to guide us, await our arrival. -We shall thus have an opportunity of contemplating and admiring that -stupendous chain of mountains (fit offspring of the mighty Andes further -west), which seems as if thrown up by Titanic force as a barrier against -the encroachments of the fierce Atlantic. - -Endless are the beauties and points of interest presented by this -splendid chain of mountains; its varied climes, from the scorching heats -of the _tierra caliente_ on the sea level to the frigid blasts of winter -at higher elevations; its silvery springs and roaring cataracts; its -unrivalled vegetation and glittering veins of precious metals. The trade -winds and currents are in our favor, which will enable us to reach La -Guaira in a couple of days, passing in quick succession some minor -ports, such as Rio Caribe, Carupano, with its silver-bearing mountains -in the distance, the island of Margarita, famous for its pearls, as the -name implies; its fisheries, and the gallant defence made by the -inhabitants against the combined attacks of the Spanish hordes; Cumana, -for its delicious grapes and pine-apples, its salubrious climate, and -the purity of the sky, which enabled the immortal Humboldt to watch in -wonderment the great meteoric shower in 1799, which he compared to a -brilliant display of fire-works; Barcelona, noted only for its hides, -and the Monagas brotherhood, who were for many years the terror of the -country. - -The coast, as we approach La Guaira, is lined with plantations of -sugar-cane, cacao and cocoa-nuts, two articles often confounded in -English spelling, but widely different in themselves. The former grows -on a moderately-sized tree, with large, glossy leaves, while the latter -is the product of a palm, remarkable for the height it attains, and the -prodigious size of its fruit, in bunches that few men can lift from the -ground. The _cacao_ nuts, on the contrary, grow in pods, resembling -large cucumbers, of a rich chocolate color outside, filled with oblong -nuts enveloped in a white, sub-acid pulp, very agreeable to the taste -especially of parrots, monkeys, and squirrels, who destroy great -quantities of the pods for the sake of the pulp, so that they require -constant watching to protect them from these pests. - -A cacao plantation is one of the handsomest orchards that can be seen, -shaded as they are by another tree of large proportions, the erythrina, -a leguminous plant with crimson flowers, which you may have noticed in -greenhouses at home, though much reduced in size, as it never attains -there more than a few feet above the boxes on which they are raised as -an ornament to the garden in summer. The rapidity with which these trees -grow in the tropics is astonishing, for in eight or ten years, the time -required to reach its maximum growth, they attain the size of the -largest denizens of the forest. Observe how their tops glow with the -fiery hue of their blossoms, for this is the season when they exchange -their leaves for flowers, the only instance of a plant shedding its -leaves in these latitudes, with the exception of the _ceiba_ or silk -cotton tree, which the author of Amyas Leigh has so admirably described -as growing close to where we are journeying just now. - -Here the cordillera rises considerably above the connecting mountains, -attaining a height of thirteen thousand feet in the peak of Naiguata, -which you may perceive peeping through the clouds yonder, and the next -one eleven thousand in the Cerro de Avila, both forming what is called -the Silla, or Saddle of Caracas, at the foot of which stands La Guaira, -the principal port of the republic, but the vilest anchorage in the -world. Here ends our yacht excursion; trusting in future to the -nimble-footed mule or to the thumping stage coaches for the rest of the -journey. - -Despite its wretched shipping facilities, La Guaira carries on a very -active trade with foreign marts, as is attested by the number of -English, French, German, and Italian merchants, with a few Americans, -residing here, forming, as it were a truly foreign colony. The heat, as -you perceive, is intense, owing to the proximity of the barren -mountain-base, which leaves room scarcely for a loaded mule to turn -round in the narrow and crowded-up streets. On this account, I presume, -La Guaira is very healthy, for not even the Asiatic cholera could obtain -a _footing_ here--excuse the pun--when it decimated the capital in -1853. Cases of _vomito_ occur from time to time; but these are more the -exception than the rule; so it does not follow that all hot places in -the tropics are unhealthy, for Carupano, Margarita, Cumana, La Guaira, -and Coro, which are within the isothermal line of greatest heat--owing, -doubtless, to the dry, stony, or sandy soil on which they stand--are -among the healthiest spots in Venezuela. However, we shall soon be out -of this sultry place, and amidst the glories of a temperate climate. For -this purpose we will hire mules at one of the _posadas_ or hotels, to -ascend the mountains on our way to Caracas, the capital of the republic, -giving the preference to the _old road_, which is much shorter and more -picturesque than the new one for carriage travel. Let us hear first the -enthusiastic English tourist describe this route, as I may be accused by -some of partiality towards my own country. - -“The ascent is very precipitous, and the road rough and narrow, but the -view of the boundless ocean on one hand, and the magnificent range of -mountains on the other, was very grand. The road rather reminded me of -the Great St. Bernard, though the resemblance would not bear analyzing. -The sensation of rising gradually into the cooler strata of air was most -delicious; and at length, being suddenly enveloped in a cloud, I felt -actually cold (a novel sensation I had not experienced for several -months), and was not at all sorry to put on my jacket. There is no -mountain in the tropics where you rise as immediately and suddenly from -the stifling heat of the Tierra Caliente to the delicious temperature of -an European sunrise in spring, as the Silla of Caracas. - -“On the road from Vera Cruz to Mexico, when the traveller arrives at the -height of four thousand feet, beyond which the fever never spreads, he -is upwards of thirty miles from the sea, whereas, on the road up the -Silla at that height the ocean lies immediately at his feet, and he -looks down upon it as from a tower. So perpendicular is the face of the -Silla towards the sea, that any large _boulder_ or mass of rock becoming -detached high up the mountain and bounding down its face, would fall -clean into the ocean. About half way up the mountain, we crossed a deep -cleft in the mountain called the Salto--a jump--on rather a rickety old -draw-bridge. The bridge is commanded by a ruinous old town, called Torre -Quemada, or the Burnt Tower, a name it derives from its being placed -just at the height where the traveller, descending to La Guaira, first -encounters the stifling exhalations from the Tierra Caliente. About nine -o’clock we stopped to breakfast at La Venta, an inn some five thousand -feet above La Guaira. Here, in a perfectly European atmosphere, we lay -out in the grass, and gazed down upon the ocean and the town of La -Guaira; we could just distinguish the _Ariel_, looking the size of a -walnut-shell, hoisting her white sail, and standing away for Porto -Cabello, where we were to meet her, unless we returned to Trinidad _via_ -the Rio Apure and the Orinoco.” - -Both sides of the road are lined with _Maguey_ plants, or varieties of -the Agave genus, improperly called _aloes_ and _century-plants_, from a -mistaken notion that they only blossom once in a hundred years. The most -beautiful of these is the _cocuy_, with thick glossy leaves of a clear -emerald color, from six to eight feet, and a flower-stock from -twenty-five to thirty feet in length. I believe it is the same species -that yields the famous beverage of the Mexicans, called pulque, which -some compare to fermented animal juices. A much more agreeable drink is -obtained here by distillation from this plant, and its leaves turned to -better account by scraping out the fine fibres they contain, from which -most beautiful hammocks are made in various parts of the country, -besides ropes, coffee-bags, twine, etc., etc. A fortune is in store for -some Yankee genius who will invent the proper machine for dressing these -leaves and getting the fibres. The other varieties are the _cocuiza -brava_, or common century-plant (Agave Americana), with serrated leaves, -on which account it is very useful for making hedges, and the _cocuiza -dulce_, with perfectly smooth leaves, containing the strongest fibres -and usually cultivated for that purpose. The pith of the flower-stock is -also turned to account in various ways, especially for making the best -kind of razor-strops. - -Were you as much a lover of plants as I am, I would invite you to -descend with me to one of those lovely glens formed by these mountains. -There, amid moss-covered rocks and sparkling rivulets, I would point out -to you those singular orchidacœous plants usually called air-plants, -because they obtain their nourishment from the moist air that surrounds -them,--not a bad idea,--those lovely daughters of Flora and Favonius, so -rich in perfume as well as color, but whose principal charm consists in -their caricaturing most living objects in nature, from the “human form -divine,” as in _man-orchis_ (O. mascula) to the bumble-bee, often -deceived by a perfect representation of his species (Ophris apifera). -Thus we count among our floral treasures “angels,” “swans,” “doves,” -“eagles,” “pelicans,” “spiders,” “butterflies,” “bumble-bees,” and even -a perfect infant in its cradle, was found by Linden in the mountains of -Merida. The celebrated _Flor del Espiritu Santo_ (Peristeria elata) is -another of this class. It is there only that are found those two most -beautiful species of cattleya (C. Mossiæ and C. Labiata), so highly -prized by plant collectors, from all nations, and here called _Flor de -Mayo_, or Mayflower, because it blossoms principally in the month of -May. Great favorites are they with us also, and no court-yard is deemed -sufficiently ornamented at Caracas without one or more _baskets_ of -these lovely plants, the stump of a tree, or any rustic basket filled -with bark or moss, being sufficient support for them. In the same manner -the curious Butterfly-flower (Oncidium papillio) is raised along with -the others, often deceiving persons unacquainted with it, with a perfect -representation of the insect whose name it bears; and if you should -visit with me some of the _cacao_ plantations in the tierra caliente, I -would point out to you two equally exquisite plants of the same family -attached to the rough stems and branches of the Erythrina, namely, the -Swan-flower (Cycnoches ventricosum) and the Vanilla, both filling the -air with the same perfume, but in different form, the former through its -swan-like flowers, in clusters of three, five, and even seven, and the -latter through its ripened pods--so well known to perfumers and -confectioners--as the blossoms of this last, though quite large and -handsome, are destitute of perfume. - -But to return to our mountain ride, for it is time that we should be -prepared to behold a still more glorious view from the summit, than the -one just described by Sullivan: “After a regular Spanish breakfast of -chocolate and fried eggs, for which, in as regular Spanish custom, we -were charged about ten times the proper amount, we continued our ascent, -and gained the seat of the Saddle, a hollow between the two peaks, -called the Pummel and Croup,[8] about ten o’clock. The summit of the -pass called Las Vueltas, is a smooth undulating grass-land, somewhat -like the sheep-downs of Sussex. The bold rocky peaks on either hand, -stretching in a serrated ridge as far as the eye could reach, were very -fine. I could scarcely fancy myself to be only ten degrees north of the -equator, and actually on or rather only eight thousand feet above the -isothermal line of greatest heat, which passes through Cartagena, La -Guaira, and Cumana. - -“We had left far below us all the tropical flora, and were amongst -English ferns and English blackberries; and I actually discovered one -familiar friend, a dandelion. From the summit of Las Vueltas, you first -get a magnificent view of the valley of Chacao, lying some four thousand -feet below you, with the city of Caracas in the centre of it. I don’t -think the view from that height is so fine as some thousand feet lower -down, where it certainly beats any view I have ever seen. It is finer in -my opinion than the first _coup d’œil_ of the Vega and city of -Granada from the Ultimo Suspiro del Moro, where the degenerate Boabdil -el Chico, both in mind and body, turned to take one last fond look at -the luxurious abode of his chivalric ancestors and wept bitterly, though -too late, at his own cowardice and duplicity, which had almost without a -blow surrendered to the “curs of Nazareth” the splendid heritage of -nearly seven centuries, and which was never but in imagination to return -to the true sons of the Prophet. It is also finer than the Valley of -Chamouni or Martigny, from the Tête Noire, but I think it bears more -resemblance to the Vega of Granada.” - -Observe how regularly laid out, at right angles to each other, the -streets are; the area of the city is great for the number of inhabitants -(sixty thousand), most of the houses being built one story high, and -occupying in consequence a large space, on account of the earthquakes, -which are of frequent occurrence all along the Andean range. As we -approach the suburbs, you may notice some of the ruins still remaining -of that dreadful catastrophe, which, in 1812, levelled this beautiful -city to the ground, burying beneath the _débris_ twelve thousand of the -inhabitants, just as they had assembled in the magnificent churches of -that time to render homage to the day, Holy Thursday. Since then the -city has been rebuilt, it is to be hoped on more solid basis. - -Caracas claims the honor of having given birth to several distinguished -individuals, among others to Bolívar and Miranda, two of the greatest -champions of South American independence; to Rosio, the Jefferson of -Venezuela; - -[Illustration: CARACAS.] - -to Andres Bello, a great poet and publicist; and to the eminent surgeon -and physician, Dr. Vargas, one of the Presidents of the Republic. - -The climate of Caracas has often been called a perpetual spring. “What -can we conceive to be more delightful than a temperature which in the -day keeps between 20° and 26°,[9] and at night between 16° and 18°, -which is equally favorable to the plantain, the orange tree, the coffee -tree, the apple, the apricot, and corn? José de Oviedo y Baños, the -historiographer of Venezuela, calls the situation of Caracas that of a -terrestrial paradise, and compares the Anauco and the neighboring -torrents to the four rivers of the Garden of Eden.”[10] - -The hotels, Sullivan describes as being as good as any in Europe. “You -might travel from one end of Old Spain to the other without finding -anything to be compared to them, either as regards cleanliness or the -civility of the landlords.” But as here I am _at home_, you are most -cordially invited to our mansion at the end of the Calle del Comercio, -where you may verify for yourself the truth of the statements concerning -the climate and productions of this fertile valley. We may at once enter -the garden, which occupies nearly the whole square, where, after our -rough ride, we can refresh ourselves with the fruits of the season. - -Here, as you perceive, you find growing side by side the refreshing -orange and the luscious apple, the pomegranate and the peach; the -banana, the citron, the guava, the sapodilla, and papaw tree, all of -them eminently tropical fruits, with the pear, the grape-vine, and other -productions of temperate regions. Unsurpassed by any, not even by the -famous Mangosteen of the Spicy Islands, you have here the delicious -Chirimoya, or cherimoyer, as pronounced by Anglo-Saxons, and which I can -only liken to lumps of flavored cream ready to be frozen, suspended from -the branches of some fairy tree amidst the most overpowering perfume of -its flowers; for it is in bearing all the year round, as indeed are most -of the fruit trees you see about this garden, and consequently you may -at all times enjoy the advantage of refreshing the inner as well as the -outer man with a “wilderness of sweets.” Markham,[11] who has tasted -both the chirimoya and mangosteen in their native habitat, gives the -preference decidedly to the former, and says of it: “He who has not -tasted the chirimoya fruit has yet to learn what fruit is.” “The -pineapple, the mangosteen and the chirimoya,” says Dr. Seeman, “are -considered the finest fruits in the world. I have tasted them in those -localities in which they are supposed to attain their highest -perfection--the pineapple in Guayaquil, the mangosteen in the Indian -Archipelago, and the chirimoya on the slope of the Andes, and if I were -called upon to act the part of a Paris, I would without hesitation -assign the apple to the chirimoya. Its taste indeed surpasses that of -every other fruit, and Haenke was quite right when he called it the -masterpiece of nature.” - -The numerous varieties of hot-house grapes, which in your variable -climate of the north require so much skill and attention to perfect -their growth, here thrive without the least care, and the vines which -you see struggling here and there among the trees for some kind of -support, proceed from _cuttings_ which I brought over six years ago from -one of the best regulated establishments in Connecticut. - -Here, too, the stately Mauritia-palm of the Orinoco, the date-palm of -the burning Sahara, the royal-palm of Cuba (Oredoxa Regia), and the -oil-palm of Africa (Eleis guinensis) commingle their majestic crowns -with the dense foliage of the mango tree of India, the aromatic cinnamon -tree of Ceylon, the bread-fruit tree of Otaheite, and the sombre pines -and cypress of northern regions, forming the most effective protection -to the shade-loving magnolia and the delicate violet of your native -woods. - -Swarms of tiny and brilliant humming-birds flutter amid masses of -highly-scented orange blossoms that perfume the air around us. Any one -unacquainted with that _bijou_ of the feathered tribe, would mistake it -at first sight for some of the metallic-colored beetles which dispute -with them the nectar of the fragrant flowers, so brilliant is the lustre -shed by both. “For that peculiar charm which resides in flashing light -combined with the most brilliant colors, the lustre of precious stones, -there are no birds, no creatures that can compare with the -humming-birds. Confined exclusively to America--whence we have already -gathered between three and four hundred distinct species, and more are -continually discovered--these lovely little winged gems were to the -Mexican and Peruvian Indians the very quintessence of beauty. By these -simple people they were called by various names, signifying ‘the rays of -the sun,’ ‘the tresses of the day-star,’ and the like.”[12] - -You may have noticed in your conservatories at home a well known creeper -called the passion-flower, on account of a fancied similarity in the -arrangement of its inflorescence with the instruments of torture -employed in the martyrdom of the Saviour, such as the crown of thorns, -the three nails, the hammer, and even the spots of sacred blood round -the pillar of agony. The plants of this genus are general favorites with -northern horticulturists only on account of the beauty and delicious -aroma of their flowers, for they bear no fruit with you; but here, this -constitutes their principal merit, especially that of the _granadilla_, -which you may perceive intertwining its graceful vines amongst yonder -arbor set up for its support. Huge watermelon-like fruits hang from its -delicate tendrils as if suspended by a thread; cut open one of them; you -will find it filled with a nectarian juice, which, when crushed in the -mouth, regale your palate with the compound flavor of the strawberry and -the peach. Other varieties of passion-flower--of which there are many -though less pretentious in size than the granadilla--bear fruit equally -rich in flavor. Unfortunately, not all fructify in the same locality, as -they require different degrees of temperature, and maybe of atmospheric -pressure, also, to ripen their fruit, which they cunningly obtain for -themselves by “squatting” of their own accord higher up or lower down -the mountains, as the case may be. - -I could still point out to you many other delicious fruits in this -garden were they in season, such as the _tuna_ or Indian-fig, borne by -the nopal, a species of cactus, on the fleshy, downy stems of which the -cochineal insect is reared for those most valuable crimson and scarlet -dyes “which far outshine the vaunted productions of ancient Tyre;” and -the _pitahaya_, of the same family of plants, notable for the size and -effulgence of its flowers. “It begins to open as the sun declines, and -is in full expanse throughout the night, shedding a delicious fragrance, -and offering its brimming goblet, filled with nectarious juice, to -thousands of moths, and other crepuscular and nocturnal insects. When -the moon is at the full in those cloudless nights whose loveliness is -only known in the tropics, the broad blossom is seen as a circular dish -nearly a foot in diameter, very full of petals, of which the outer -series are of a yellowish hue, gradually paling to the centre, where -they shine in the purest white. The numerous recumbent stamens surround -the style, which rises in the midst like a polished shaft, the whole -growing in its silvery beauty under the moonbeams, from the dark and -matted foliage, and diffusing its delicious clove-like fragrance so -profusely that the air is loaded with it for furlongs round.”[13] - -I well remember one night when a distinguished foreigner, General -Devereux, who rendered the patriot cause so marked a service by bringing -over the Irish Legion to assist this country in her struggle for -independence, honored me with a visit while keeping bachelor’s hall in -this--to me then--earthly paradise. The Queen of Night was shining in -all her glory, and the air redolent with the perfume of many exquisite -flowers, among others that of the pitahaya just described, while the -stillness that reigned around the spot, added to my youthful dreams of -fairy lands I had lately visited across the seas, made me feel a -particular pride about our mansion in the capital. Although the old hero -was perfectly blind--as will be recollected by many who knew him in the -United States where he resided afterwards--I could not resist the wish -to invite him to take a stroll about the garden. As we passed close to -the flowers of the pitahaya, the gallant old soldier stopped suddenly, -and seizing me by the hand with an emotion that made me feel the deepest -sympathy for the blind man, said: “How happy you must be here, my young -friend, surrounded as you are by plants that shed such heavenly -perfume!” But when we passed a bower of English honeysuckles, which was -my special favorite, as I had planted it with my own hands, his emotions -were indeed those of a man who felt as though everything on earth was -lost to him--sweet home, friendly associations, the world itself in -fact, and that he was only a wandering spirit in a strange sphere. - -This, my good companion, reminds me too that such, more or less, is my -own situation in this my native land, subject as it has been for years -to political convulsions more disastrous to the peacefully inclined, -than those subterranean fires which agitate the soil from time to time. -Therefore our rambles in the capital must be of short duration, and -following the route already pointed out by the traveller Sullivan, we -will proceed on our journey towards the fertile valley of Aragua, -stopping for the night at Las Adjuntas, a village delightfully situated -at the foot of another lofty range of mountains which separates this -from that of Caracas, near the junction of two mountain streams that -form the Rio Guaire which passes near the capital. - -Should you ever be troubled with nervousness or dyspepsia from too close -application to business, or even be threatened with that more serious -complaint of cold climates, consumption, don’t let your Doctor bother -you with physic, nor delude yourself with a trip “down South,” Cuba, or -even Europe; all this may at best prolong a miserable existence a little -longer; instead of that, come here at once; bring plenty of books to -while away the _dolce far niente_ of this quiet place; or if you are a -sportsman, your gun and fishing tackle; when sufficiently convalescent -to undergo the fatigues of the journey, buy or hire horses for yourself -and a good _peon_ or guide, and start for the _llanos_, where you will -have to rough it out as I did some years ago, and I guarantee you a -radical cure. - -At Las Adjuntas we have the choice of two roads, one for carriages, made -at great cost since Sullivan’s visit to the country, and the other one -right over the mountains; as this is by far the most picturesque of the -two and the one described by him, we will follow on his footsteps, if -you wish to enjoy the glorious scenery, of which he says; - -“Next morning, at 3 A.M., our faithful mozo roused us,--at San -Pedro--and we found our mules already saddled. The morning was very -cold, and a cloak was by no means disagreeable. As far as I could make -out by the light of a most glorious moon, San Pedro must be a very -picturesque and flourishing village. We continued ascending through a -thickly-wooded, mountainous path, for about three hours, when we found -ourselves along the summit of the mountain, here called Las Cocuizas. -Here the scenery was truly magnificent. The road wound along the summit -of the Sierra, giving alternate views of the valley of the Tuy, with the -distant valley of Aragua on the one hand, and the valley of Ocumare -bounded the snow-capped mountains that separate the valleys from the -plains on the other. Out of the main valleys narrow little glens wind, -and nestle up into the mountains, till lost to view. Their rounded -sides, and the emerald brilliancy of nature’s carpet with which they -were clothed, reminded me of some of the glens of the Cheviots. - -“That morning’s moonlight ride along the summits of the sierra of Las -Cocuizas was certainly one of the most enjoyable I ever remember. It was -almost like magic, when as the sun began to approach the horizon, the -perfect stillness of the forests beneath was gradually broken by the -occasional note of some early riser of the winged inhabitants, till at -length, as the day itself began to break, the whole forest seemed to be -suddenly warmed into life, sending forth choir after choir of -gorgeous-plumaged songsters, each after his own manner, to swell the -chorus of greeting--a discordant one, I fear it must be owned--to the -glorious sun; and when the morning light enabled you to see down into -the misty valleys beneath, there were displayed to our enchanted gaze -zones of fertility embracing almost every species of tree and flower -that flourishes between the Tierra Caliente and the regions of perpetual -snow. It certainly was a view of almost unequalled magnificence. We were -riding amongst apple and peach trees that might have belonged to an -English orchard, and on whose branches we almost expected to see the -blackbird and the chaffinch; while a few hundred yards below, parrots -and macaws, monkeys and mocking-birds were sporting among the palms and -tree-ferns of a tropical climate. I consider that this view alone would -repay any lover of fine scenery for all the troubles and risks of -crossing the Atlantic, for I do not know where one to be compared with -it is to be found in Europe.” - -This mountain takes the name of Las Cocuizas from the abundance of Agave -plants growing here, and which impart such peculiar aspect to the -landscape as we descend towards the bed of the Tuy, at the foot of the -mountain. Here we must stop to breakfast and pass the sun before we -proceed on our journey along the Tierra Caliente not far from our -resting-place. - -“We found the pretty village of Las Cocuizas,” proceeds Sullivan, -“situated at the entrance of a delicious little glen, down which warbled -the waters of the Tuy. The _Venta_, in fact nearly the whole village was -shaded by one enormous saman-tree,[14] which to the dusty and wearied -traveller gave it a most enticing appearance; neither did it disappoint -our expectations, for a cleaner room and a better breakfast better -cooked and better served, I never wish to taste. This venta at Las -Cocuizas is most enchantingly situated at the foot of the mountain and -at the entrance of the valley of the Tuy, which is there a mere glen; -one side is entirely shaded by this enormous tree, and the other -overhanging the Tuy, which with its rocky bed and thickly-wooded, -precipitous banks, reminded one very much of some of the tributaries of -the Tweed. The venta would be a charming place to stay at for a few -days’ angling in the Tuy, which I believe is very good.” - -After leaving the venta of Las Cocuizas, we wade through the waters of -the Tuy--no bridge being provided here--and proceed along a well graded -road for carts and carriages skirting the base of another ridge of -mountains until we reach the village of El Consejo, where the great -valley of Aragua, seventy miles in length, properly commences. And now -we are in the great coffee region, “the garden of Venezuela” as it is -very aptly called by common accord. As we ride towards the town of La -Victoria, where we shall stop for the night, we pass several extensive -plantations of that delicious shrub, shaded like the cacao by those -stupendous erythrinas which you might mistake for a primeval forest, -were it not for the uniformity of their growth and dazzling blossoms. -Nothing in your vaunted system of cultivation in the North can excel the -care bestowed upon these plantations, which must be kept in the best -order to yield handsome returns; but as we cannot stop to visit one of -these just now, you will permit me to repeat what the traveller often -quoted before, says in regard to the region we are traversing: - -“The valleys of Aragua are the most thickly populated and the most -highly cultivated of all the districts of Venezuela. The level of the -valley is two thousand feet below the valley of Caracas, consequently -the heat much more intense. Coffee is now the chief article of -exportation from Venezuela, the fluctuating price of which has of late -years been very injurious to the country. The berry grown is of a -superior quality, and fetches a much better price than the Cuban or -Brazilian coffee, though not quite so high as that grown in Jamaica. -Some of the coffee and sugar estates we passed were on the largest -scale, employing as many as two hundred slaves,[15] besides the same -number of laborers. A coffee plantation, either in blossom or when the -berry is ripe, is the most beautiful culture in the world. The plant -itself, with its regular shoots like a miniature tree, and red berries, -is one of the most graceful shrubs I know; and as between the rows of -coffee-trees they usually plant plantains and bananas, these with their -enormous clusters of yellow fruits and their leaves of some six or eight -feet in length, add greatly to the effect, and give the country the -appearance of a large fruit garden. Moreover, as it is necessary to -plant the mango, and other large fast-growing trees, to protect the -ripening berry from the deluging rains and scorching heats, whenever you -pass a coffee plantation, even in the hottest day in the midst of -summer, when the whole face of the country is parched up and of an -unhealthy brown color, the eye is continually refreshed by the cool, -verdant appearance of these shaded gardens.” - -I may add that the coffee of Venezuela is of various qualities, -according to whether it is raised in Tierra Caliente or Tierra Fria, _id -est_, coffee of the low, warm valleys, or coffee of mountainous -districts; this last is superior to the former, and bears in consequence -the highest price in the market. Again, _café trillado_, and _café -descerezado_, which means coffee dried in the berry as it is gathered, -and husked afterwards by a tread-mill composed of a heavy wooden wheel -revolving in a circular trough of masonry; and coffee deprived at once -of its pulpy covering by machinery as soon as it is picked, dried -afterwards in the sun upon extensive platforms of masonry called -_patios_, and passed through different sets of machinery to deprive the -grain or bean of the adhering shell and pellicle. The coffee thus -prepared is superior in quality to that which is _trillado_ for want of -means on the part of the planter to put up the expensive works required -for this operation, and therefore bears a higher price. - -Interspersed with these plantations are others of no less importance to -the industry of these valleys, such as indigo, cotton, indian-corn, -wheat and tobacco, all of them requiring the same share of careful -cultivation and intelligent management. “The road we were following,” -continues Sullivan, “was so well kept and so well wooded, and the hedges -so neatly clipped, that I could hardly sometimes help fancying myself -riding down some country lanes in England. We followed one lime hedge, -which enclosed a coffee plantation, for upwards of two miles. It was -the most perfectly kept hedge I had seen in any country; it was four or -five feet high and about three feet thick, and throughout its whole -length, I don’t believe there was a single flaw through which a dog -could have forced its way. Several slaves were employed in trimming it. -In fact, in this climate, where the growth of all inanimate nature is -unceasing, and so rapid, it must employ several hands continually to -keep it in such beautiful order. The scent of the lime as we approached -it from some parched country we had been crossing previously, was most -delicious.” - -As there is nothing to interest us in the towns along this route, we -will pass by San Mateo, La Victoria and Turmero, all of them pleasantly -surrounded by plantations until we reach Maracay, the point of our -destination. On our way thither, we come up with that giant of the -vegetable world, the Saman de Güere, so well described by Humboldt in -his Travels, and subsequently by Sullivan. As their statements are -corroborative of the facts given elsewhere by me respecting these -enormous but most graceful mimosas, I will here use the language of the -last mentioned traveller about that of the hacienda de Güere. - -“Soon after leaving Turmero we caught sight of the far-famed Saman de -Güere, and in about an hour’s time arrived at the hamlet of Güere, from -whence it takes its name. It is supposed to be the oldest tree in the -world, for so great was the reverence of the Indians for it on account -of its age at the time of the Spanish conquest, that the Government -issued a decree for its protection from all injury, and it has ever -since been public property. It shows no sign whatever of decay, but it -is as fresh and green as it was most probably a thousand years ago. The -trunk of this magnificent tree is only sixty feet high by thirty feet in -circumference, so that it is not so much the enormous size of the Saman -de Güere that constitutes its great attraction, as the wonderful spread -of its magnificent branches, and the perfect dome-like shape of its -head, which is so exact and regular, that one could almost fancy some -extinct race of giants had been exercising their topiarian art upon it. -The circumference of this dome is said to be nearly six hundred feet, -and the measure of its semicircular head very nearly as great. The saman -is a species of mimosa, and what is curious and adds greatly to its -beauty and softness is, that the leaves of this giant of nature are as -small and delicate as those of the silver willow, and are equally as -sensitive to every passing breeze.” - -And now for the most picturesque of all the towns on our long ride, -Maracay, not on account of any architectural display about its -buildings, for it has no pretensions of this kind, but for its many -gardens, each house being literally embowered in the choicest -productions of the tropics in the way of fruits, such as orange, lime -and lemon trees, both sweet and sour; caimito or star-apple, a creamy -and luscious fruit growing upon one of the most beautiful trees with -which I am acquainted; the same might be said of two other fruit-trees -cultivated in these gardens, the _mamon_ and _cotopriz_; both bearing -great bunches of an oval fruit the size of a pigeon’s egg, olive-green -in the former, and bright yellow in the latter, containing a kernel -enveloped in a sweet, sub-acid pulp; bread-fruit trees of two kinds and -accordingly distinguished as _fruta de pan_ and _pan de palo_, -bread-fruit and bread-tree--the former being a large pulpy and greenish -fruit very like an Osage orange but larger, containing great numbers of -chestnut-like seeds, which roasted or boiled taste very much like bread, -and the latter a fruit precisely like its congener in appearance, but -destitute of seeds, which assimilates it still more to the “staff of -life” when boiled or baked, for it is beautifully white and compact -inside. - -In addition to the foregoing, these gardens offer you a fine display of -other tropical trees no less esteemed for their grateful shade and their -delicious fruits, such as sapotes and sapodillas, both elegant in form -as well as in bearing; and so is also the splendid mamey apple-tree -(mamea Americana) bearing great quantities of large, round and heavy -fruits, brown outside, and golden-yellow within, from which marmalades -and other delicacies are made by the charming Maracayeras. - -The family to which the famous chirimoya belongs (anonaciæ) have also -three other representatives hardly inferior to that “master-piece of -nature,” viz.; the _guanábana_ (anona muricata) or sour-sop--an ugly -name in English for such fine fruit--from which a most cooling drink is -made, and still finer ices; the custard-apple, which needs no further -explanation than its name to recommend it; and the _riñon_, (anona -squamosa) also a custardy kindney-like fruit, hence its name. - -Butter being expensive, and difficult to keep in this climate, nature -has provided a substitute for it in the fruit of the fine tree (Persea -gratissima), consecrated, as the name implies, to Perseus, the son of -Jupiter and Danaë; thus showing the wisdom of the botanist over the less -cultivated English settlers of the Caribean islands, who call it -_alligator-pear_, I presume, from the fact of its being indigenous to a -country abounding in saurian reptiles, although I am of opinion that a -creature of this sort would rather prefer a more substantial morsel in -the shape of a fat Briton, to a fruit which is well adapted to the taste -of demigods. In shape it resembles a large pear, but the interior of its -rind is lined with a marrow-like substance of a yellowish color, which -assimilates very nearly to butter, the place of which it supplies at the -breakfast-table. It is, in fact, vegetable-butter, and many prefer it to -the ordinary kind. - -The extensive family of leguminous or pod-bearing trees also grace these -gardens with three additional members remarkable for fine foliage and -useful products, such as the _algarroba_, with hard-shelled pods, -containing a number of brown, round seeds or beans--also very hard, -enveloped in a farinaceous and very nutricious fecula; a fine aromatic -resin, good for varnishes, exudes from the trunk and branches of this -tree, and a still finer one can be extracted from its horny pericarp by -infusion in alcohol or other extractive medium; _guamos_ (Inga) of -various kinds, with pellucid pods one and two feet in length, containing -a row of beans enveloped in white, cottony pulp, most grateful to the -taste; and the unrivalled tamarind, either as regards beauty of foliage, -brilliancy of blossoms, or the delicacy of its acidulous pulpy pods; -these are candied either in a green state or when fully ripe, affording -in the latter case a most refreshing drink to the fever-stricken in this -climate, when made into a decoction. In blossom, the tamarind-tree is -one of the most charming objects to behold, for amid its feathery, -dark-green foliage, somewhat similar to that of the hemlock, issues a -profusion of golden-yellow branches of delicate flowers, almost dazzling -to the eyes. - -The coco-palm, although far away from the sea-coast, its native habitat, -also flourishes in great perfection, contributing not a little to the -splendor of the vegetation in these truly tropical gardens, with its -glorious crown of monster leaves. And last, though not least, the -plantain and banana claim here the supremacy which everyone accords them -over all productions of the tropics. A few plants of each only are -sufficient to supply a whole family with bread, vegetables, fruit, and -preserves of various kinds. “We might be surprised,” observes Humboldt, -“at the small extent of these cultivated spots, if we did not recollect -that an acre planted with plantains produces nearly twenty times as much -food as the same space sown with corn. In Europe, our wheat, barley, and -rye cover vast spaces of ground; and in general the arable lands touch -each other whenever the inhabitants live upon corn. It is different -under the torrid zone, where man obtains food from plants which yield -more abundant and earlier harvests. In those favored climates the -fertility of the soil is proportioned to the heat and humidity of the -atmosphere. An immense population finds abundant nourishment within a -narrow space covered with plantains, casava, yams, and maize.”[16] - -Well has the immortal bard of the Torrid Zone[17] sung the marvellous -exuberance of this plant in the following lines, which I regret to be -unable to translate. - - “Y para tí el banano, - Desmaya al peso de su dulce carga. - El banano, primero - De cuantos concedió bellos presentes - Providencia à, las gentes - Del Ecuador feliz con mano larga; - No ya de humanas artes obligado - El premio rinde opimo; - No es á la podadera, no al arado, - Deudor de su racimo. - Escasa industria bástale cual puede - Robar á sus fatigas mano esclava; - Crece veloz, y cuando exbausto acaba, - Adulta prole en torno le sucede.” - - _Silva á la Zona Tórrida._ - -Water being abundant throughout these gardens by the provident care of -the inhabitants in bringing it in flowing streams from a great distance, -they present at all times of the year, even during the driest months of -summer, the perpetual spring-like verdure which constitutes their -principal charm. Not far from here is the fine lake of Tacarigua or -Valencia, which by its gradual but marked evaporation, is constantly -adding to the already extensive area of fertile land nowhere to be found -like it in the wide world, and which doubtless extorted, even from an -Englishman, the following confession: - -“It is a great pity Venezuela is so much out of the high roads of -travel, and that the inconveniences, for Europeans, of getting at it, -are so great. It is, in my opinion, the most beautiful country, as -regards climate, scenery, and productions, in the world. The inhabitants -are intelligent, civil, and honest; and although there is no excessive -wealth in the country, there is, on the other hand, no great poverty, -and actual want is unknown, where beef can be procured to any amount for -a half penny a pound, and plantains and bananas almost for nothing. The -inns are excellent, and travelling perfectly safe. You may, on the sides -of its precipitous valleys, in a few hours, ascend from the productions -of the torrid zone to those of the frigid. You may, if you like, dine -off beefsteak and potatoes, cooled down with French claret or real -London stout; or, if you prefer it, you may, in imitation of Leo X. and -the Emperor Vitellius, feast your guests on joints of monkey and jaguar, -and have your _entremêts_ of parrots’ tongues and humming-birds’ breasts -washed down with sparkling pulque, tapped from the graceful maguey -growing at your very door. In fact, there is no luxury you cannot enjoy -at a moderate expense. Servants are cheap; and you can buy a horse for -five shillings, though it will cost you fifteen to have him shod! The -shooting on the _llanos_ and in the mountains, according to all -accounts, is very grand. The woods are filled with jaguar and ocelot, to -say nothing of snakes, and the plains with deer and wild cattle. - -“If any kind fairy were to offer me the sovereignty of any part of the -world out of Europe, with power to rule it as I choose, my choice would -certainly fall on Venezuela. I am fully convinced it only _wants a -government strong and stable enough to ensure the necessary protection -to capital and property_, to render it one of the most flourishing -countries in the world. I look back upon the few weeks I spent there as -amongst the most enjoyable I ever passed; and if ever any opportunity -was to offer of revisiting that delicious country, I should do so with -pleasure. Any traveller, wishing to judge for himself, has only to go by -the West India steamer to St. Thomas, where he meets the sailing-packet -for La Guaira, which he reaches in four or five days; and with a few -letters of introduction, or even without any, hospitality will meet him -on all hands, and he will never feel a moment hang heavy on his -hands.”[18] - -And now, seated under the refreshing foliage of these paradisaical -gardens, rather than expose you to the dangers of a demi-savage country, -I will recount to you the adventures of a former journey, and the -peculiarities of a still more wonderful region. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - PAGE - -1. Frontispiece--Map of Venezuela. - -2. Caracas, xxviii - -3. Morros de San Juan, 19 - -4. The Llanos, 26 - -5. Pounding Corn, 36 - -6. Striped Catfish, 61 - -7. The Caribe, 63 - -8. The Electric Eel, 68 - -9. Troop of Wild Horses, 84 - -10. A Prairie on Fire, 97 - -11. Encounter with a Crocodile, 114 - -12. The Saman, 122 - -13. Garzero, 137 - -14. The Rodeo, 175 - -15. Training the Boys, 200 - -16. Mata-caballo, 210 - -17. Coral Snake, 212 - -18. Aristolochia Apurensis, 219 - -19. The Jaguar, 222 - -20. The Puma, 233 - -21. _Garzoneando_, 242 - -22. The Armadillo, 245 - -23. The Great Ant-Eater, 257 - -24. Among the Crocodiles, 281 - -25. Young Crocodile, 282 - -26. Crocodile Basking in the Sun, 292 - -27. Our Leader, 329 - -28. Capture of Spanish Gunboats by Llanero Cavalry, 350 - -29. Dr. Gallegos Sewing the Belly of a Wounded Horse, 365 - -30. Scenes at El Dorado, 391 - -31. Arrow used in Turtle Shooting, 443 - -32. Homeward Bound, 448 - - - - -TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -THE DEPARTURE. - - “Y greyes van sin cuento - Paciendo tu verdura desde el llano - Que tiene por lindero el horizonte, - Hasta el erguido monte - De inaccesible nieve siempre cano.” - - ANDRES BELLO, _Silva á la Zona Tórrida_. - - -On a fine morning of a tropical December month, a jolly cavalcade, or -rather a heterogeneous assemblage from the various castes composing the -bulk of the population in the Venezuelian Republic, was to be seen -traversing the streets of the beautiful town of Maracay, in the -direction of the road leading to the _Llanos_ or Pampas of Apure, a -region widely celebrated for its wildness, its dangers, and the many -exploits enacted therein. There the father of the writer owned extensive -cattle-farms, and the aforesaid company proposed spending the remainder -of the summer season in hunting among the untamed herds constituting the -wealth and commerce of that wild region. - -I shall never forget the exciting scenes of that eventful day; it forms -one of the most pleasing episodes of my life. Full well do I remember -also the picturesqueness of the variegated costumes of the riders; -their red and blue ponchos flowing in the wind as they cantered to and -fro through the unusually animated streets of the little town, taking -leave of their friends, and provisioning their saddle-bags with the -necessaries they required; the trampling and neighing of horses; the -parting adieux and waving of handkerchiefs in the hands of lively -brunettes, as we defiled under the windows and balconies of the Calle -Real, crowded with anxious relatives, friends, and sweethearts of many a -gallant cavalier, who might never return from his distant and perilous -journey. For my part, I confess, that although for sundry reasons I -regretted departing from our romantic abode in the valleys of Aragua, -still, so great was my desire to visit the land of the wild bull and -crocodile, that for several nights before leaving home I dreamed of -nothing but wild scenes and terrible encounters with the lords of the -savannas. - -The method of conducting a South American cattle farm is entirely -different from that usually practised among the more peaceful scenes of -the North American prairies. Here the cattle, accustomed from their -birth to the friendly voice of man, readily obey his commands and follow -him instinctively wherever he leads them. In the plains of South -America, on the contrary, the herds hear no other than the voice of -Nature in her sublimest moods, in the thunders of the storm, and when in -her vernal showers she calls upon the crocodiles and other drowsy -reptiles, awakening them from their periodical summer’s lethargy; and -nightly the roar and screams of savage beasts answering each other in -the darkness. The cattle, thus roaming over extensive plains, and free -of all restraint, necessarily require to be occasionally collected -together for the purpose of branding and marking the young calves, which -increase there with astonishing rapidity. If this precaution were -neglected, they would in time become so dispersed over those boundless -plains, as to be altogether irreclaimable. This operation cannot be -accomplished, however, without a great number of men and horses, both -well trained to and thoroughly acquainted with this demi-savage -occupation. Therefore we mustered now quite a little army of _Llaneros_, -or natives of the Llanos, who are the only individuals capable of -prosecuting and successfully performing the arduous duties appertaining -to these cattle forays. - - * * * * * - -Our retinue presented pretty much the appearance of an oriental caravan; -it consisted of more than a hundred individuals of all grades and -colors; from the bright, rubicund faces of merry England’s sons, to the -jetty phiz of the native African, all of whom, notwithstanding, -fraternized as though sprung from the same race. - -Our company, moreover, had been organized as if for a military campaign, -and formed the nucleus of a more extensive camp, to be increased by -additions from different places along the route. The leader--General -Paez--besides having acquired in early life a practical knowledge of -this peculiar warfare, possessed in addition the rare gift of being--in -the opinion of many--“the first rider in South America,” and withal the -most accomplished Llanero in the Republic. His dispositions were -accordingly made in a manner most likely to insure success in this -strange campaign; passing in review every person and every object, with -as scrupulous care as he bestowed upon the legions under his command in -the long strife for his country’s freedom; distributing each particular -horse with reference to the skill and special duties of his rider, and -every load according to the strength of each beast of burden. - -Next in importance to the Leader was a Surgeon and Physician, whose -valuable services were to be frequently called into requisition. -Although we were not now to encounter powder and ball, we had to deal -with no less dangerous enemies in the form of wild bulls, snakes, and -crocodiles, without reckoning the pestiferous marshes of the country. - -After our Surgeon came the Treasurer; his duty was to conduct safely the -military chest of the expedition, consisting of sundry bags of hard -dollars, ponchos, checkered linen handkerchiefs of the peculiar pattern -worn with so much pride by Llaneros on the head, knives, sword blades, -and various other articles of barter which they prize more than money -itself, and for the attainment of which they labor hard and even expose -their lives. - -To me was assigned the honorable post of Secretary to the expedition, -whose pleasant duty was to keep its records, and at times those of the -political “Bulls and Bears” of the country at large. Attached to this -office were an English amateur of wild sports, an English artist of -considerable merit, and a few others, who, like myself, not being -sufficiently trained to the hard operations of the field, were forced to -be content with the tamer occupations of the cattle farm, and only an -occasional foray among the smaller game of the savannas. - -I will mention two other individuals, who, although filling less exalted -positions than the preceding--being the cook and the washerman--were -very necessary to our comfort; not that we felt over-scrupulous with -regard to the dressing of either ourselves or that of the savory dishes -of the Llanos--where I relished a beafsteak _au naturel_ with as much -gusto as though prepared by the Delmonicos or Maillards of New York--but -an early cup of coffee was a luxury not to be despised, and an -occasional scouring of our scanty wardrobe was equally an essential. The -cook was a mulatto by birth, whose name--Mónico--bore some similarity to -that of the distinguished caterer of William street, and was as great a -favorite with us as the latter is among the “down town” gentry of the -great city, not only on account of his good nature and skill in the -preparation of the delicious beverage before mentioned, - - “que en los festines - La fiebre insana templará á Lieo,” - -but also for the aid he lent his companions in mending their tattered -garments, being as accomplished a tailor and shoemaker as cook. Gaspar, -the washerman, was a lame negro rather advanced in years, but with all -the vivacity of his race still sparkling in his eyes. He had earned some -reputation in his time as a brave soldier during the protracted war of -Independence, but, disabled now by a bullet and sundry tiger scars, -testimonials of his good service in the cause of humanity, could perform -no other work than the rather feminine one allotted to him on this -occasion. He, however, possessed other accomplishments, among which the -chief was that of recounting his adventures in the wars and with the -wild beasts of the field, which made him a desirable companion and -general favorite. - -Poor fellows! they are both dead, and their bones, as well as those of -most of that little band of heroes, are now bleaching in the hot sun of -the tropics, amid the waving grass of those savannas once rendered -famous by their deeds of valor and enlivened by their chivalrous songs. -After faithfully following their leader through dangers and hardships no -less terrible than those of the battle-field, one by one they fell, not -by foe “in battle arrayed,” nor the terrible stroke of the wild bull, -but by the assassin’s treacherous hand, and those of the unprincipled -myrmidons of military misrule; not because of their political influence -in the councils of the Nation, but for being the faithful followers of -their beloved Chieftain. - -The reader has now been introduced to those constituting the Staff of -the expedition; but in addition a host of attendants and idlers formed -the rank and file of this motley assemblage. Each one of these had a -special duty to perform. Some were _asistentes_, or the personal -attendants of the former, as no _blanco_ ventures to travel in the -Llanos without some _cicerone_ of the country to guide him over the -trackless wastes, to saddle his horse, and see that both horse and -rider are comfortably quartered for the night. Others were appointed to -conduct the beasts of burden, of which there were a formidable array; -while the most experienced riders were intrusted with the care and -guidance of our _madrina_, or pack of supernumerary horses, which formed -by far the most efficient element of our expedition. - -Our drove consisted of about two hundred spirited chargers, as swift and -slim as any that ever tramped the hot sands of Yemen or the Sahara; -these were to be reinforced with fresh relays from the cattle farms, to -supply the place of those which might be carried off from various causes -during those exciting hunts. - -The only method of travelling as yet adopted in the country is on -horseback. This is at first somewhat fatiguing to those unaccustomed to -long journeys; but the traveller soon becomes inured to it, and ends by -preferring it to any other, on account of the exhilarating sensation of -independence he experiences; at all events, it is the most convenient -that can be adopted in a country which, like the Pampas, is subject to -vast inundations, and overgrown in all its extent by the rank herbage of -the savannas. On the mountains, mules are usually preferred for their -surefootedness, as also for their astonishing endurance of hunger and -fatigue; but in the Pampas, where journeys must be accomplished with -great expedition and rapidity, they are comparatively worthless from the -shortness of their gait, and also because their hoofs become softened by -the marshy soil which everywhere prevails, they being never shod, owing -to a mistaken notion of the riders, who believe that by so doing the -surefootedness of the animal is impaired. The best horses, -consequently, had been selected on this occasion, but were not to be -saddled until we reached the Llanos. These were all collected into a -_madrina_ or drove, together with the _vaqueros_ or horses destined for -the chase, and placed under the charge of half a dozen experienced -Llaneros, who were to drive them loose across the country. In the mean -time we would perform on mules the first four days of our journey, which -lay across the rough and hilly country between the valleys and the -plains. As beasts of burden, mules are particularly serviceable; in view -of this we had collected a pack of about twenty for the purpose of -transporting our loads, consisting partly, as I have observed, of -various descriptions of goods for distribution among the Llaneros, in -part payment of their wages; but the greater number were laden with our -own chattels and provisions; for although the Llanos are justly regarded -as a land of plenty, the habitations are yet so widely distant, that it -is expedient to provide for all contingencies. - -Our road, at times, lay across extensive fields of sugar cane, indigo, -and tobacco; or through vast plantations of Erithynas (_bucarales_) -raised for the protection of the shade-loving Cacao trees, loaded with -the luscious bean that yields its “divine food”[19] to gods and mortals. -At other times, extensive tracks of waste lands (_rastrojos_) overgrown -with a luxuriant vegetation, intercepted the line of our march, giving -the country a wild and desolate aspect. Land is so cheap and plentiful -in Venezuela, that it is always more advantageous for the planter, -whenever the land has become exhausted with repeated cultivation, to -clear a new patch of ground for his crop, than to trouble himself about -restoring to the ground by artificial means what nature will provide in -the course of time. The rapidity with which a patch of waste land, that -only a year or two before had been abandoned as unserviceable, becomes -covered with an exuberant vegetation in the tropics, is quite -extraordinary. Hardly have the plough and hoe of the industrious -husbandman ceased to harass the land with their incessant toil, when an -entirely different crop of indigenous plants, which had been silently -struggling for existence, now make their appearance, and change the -aspect of the landscape with new forms of vegetation. Insignificant -weeds at first, scarcely worth noticing, they soon attain sufficient -strength to arrest the progress of any stragglers that might have -remained of the plantation. In a short time they have acquired the size -and form of well-developed trees, with boughs spreading far above a man -on horseback; and before two summers have elapsed, not a vestige remains -of what was once a flourishing plantation. An endless variety of -creepers, such as convolvulus, bignonias, and passion flowers, now find -support among their numerous branches, forming with them the most -picturesque bowers and arcades, or hanging by their sides in graceful -garlands and festoons of the most exquisite beauty. Our troop of -supernumerary horses, as if unwilling to leave behind these delightful -retreats, did not fail to profit by the tangled nature of the cover, -frequently eluding the vigilance of the drivers, and dashing forward -whenever they saw an opening to decamp. The most skilful management on -the part of the drivers was then required to disentangle them from the -thick jungle; otherwise we should have arrived at the end of our journey -with less than half their number. It was quite amusing to see those -reckless fellows gliding here and there through the tangled woods in -full pursuit of the refractory animals, now hanging from one leg down -the sides of their steeds, or stretched over their necks to avoid being -lifted from the saddle by the intervening branches. In spite of all -precaution, and the vigilance of their drivers, we missed several -valuable hunters in the course of the journey, every one of which made -his way back to the _potreros_ or old grazing grounds with unerring -precision. So remarkable is this peculiarity in horses of one place -driven across a strange country, and the cunning they display in -effecting their escape, that although we left instructions along the -route to secure all deserters, most of those we missed at a considerable -distance from Maracay, made their way back across the fields, avoiding -in their flight the public roads and populated districts through which -we had passed. - -Late in the evening we reached San Luis de Cura, a town of some -importance on our route. Although we had there many friends of whose -hospitality we could have availed ourselves, we preferred passing the -night at a _Pulperia_, or country inn, a short distance in -advance--hotels being yet unknown in that part of the country. Our -numerous retinue, and especially our horses, accustomed to the -unrestrained freedom of the _potrero_--an enclosed field attached to the -_Pulperia_--precluded all idea of seeking accommodations within the -narrow limits of a city residence. Declining, therefore, all invitations -to that effect, we pushed on to a place called El Rodeo, a few miles -further. - -San Luis de Cura--or Villa de Cura, as it is usually called--is a sort -of entrepôt to which the people of the Llanos resort from time to time -to barter the products of their farms for those of foreign manufacture, -retailed there by country traders. It is, in fact, the connecting link -between the agricultural and pastoral sections of the republic; hence we -find there the strangest admixture of wild and civilized manners and -costumes curiously intermingled in all the pursuits and vocations of the -people. Thus we often meet with persons of respectability clad in the -elegant city dress, and riding a horse entirely caparisoned in the gaudy -attire of the Llanos, and _vice versa_. - -Our accommodations at the inn were not of the most inviting description, -neither its apartments nor the _potrero_ affording much comfort to the -weary caravan, after their long ride. A stony bank on the slope of the -barren hill for couch and the broad dome of heaven for roof, with not -even posts enough from which to sling our hammocks, was all the -hospitality we received at the Pulperia. We slept soundly -notwithstanding, softening our beds of pebbles by spreading our ponchos -over them, while each man’s saddle, serving at once as pillow and -larder, furnished us with supper on this occasion. The llanero saddle is -admirably adapted for the rough journeys of the country, and though -somewhat ponderous, renders good service to the wandering Llanero in his -long peregrinations. These saddles, usually styled _vaqueras_, in -allusion to the occupations of the riders, appear to be modelled after -the gay accoutrements of the Arabs; the same profusion of silver -ornament and bright-colored trimmings of morocco, the high peak in -front, and still higher cantle behind. A comfortable _pellon_ or -shabrack, made either of an entire sheepskin or horse hair dyed black -and neatly braided at one end, covers the entire seat, and hangs from it -in graceful folds. Numbers of bags and pockets--_bolsas_--made of the -same material as the saddle, and in keeping with the rest, are affixed -to it for the purpose of stowing away all those little commodities so -essential to the traveller on a long journey, such as _papelon_, a sort -of brown sugar in cakes resembling maple sugar, cheese, cakes of Indian -corn, and _aguardiente_, a beverage equally celebrated for its use and -its abuse. The stirrups, which are usually carved from a block of wood, -present the peculiarity of being longer and heavier than any ever -adopted by equestrians. Although termed _africanos_, they are just the -reverse of their cognomens, as can be seen by comparing the subjoined -designs. - -An expert rider never places his whole foot in the stirrup, as is the -case with the Arabs, but holds it with his big toe, so as to disentangle -himself readily in case of a fall. This habit gives a crooked shape to -the feet and legs of the rider, which peculiarity entitles him to the -credit of being a good horseman. - -[Illustration] - -The carvings on some of these stirrups are very fanciful, and display -considerable taste. Their beauty is thought to consist chiefly in the -two triangular appendages at the bottom with which they urge on their -horses. - -The _cobija_ or poncho is also a most indispensable commodity on these -long journeys; and no traveller should omit providing himself with one, -especially during the rainy season. It is fully six feet square, with a -hole in the centre to admit the head, and its office is twofold, viz., -to protect the rider and his cumbrous equipment from the heavy showers -and dews of the tropics, and to spread under him when there is no -convenience for slinging the hammock. It also serves as a protection -from the scorching rays of the sun, experience having taught its wearer -that a thick woollen covering keeps the body moist and cool by day, and -warm by night. The poncho used in Venezuela is made double, by sewing -together two different blankets, the outside one being dark blue and the -inner one bright red, which colors, as is well known, are differently -acted upon by light and heat. By exposing alternately the sides of the -poncho to the light according to the state of the weather, those -modifications of temperature most agreeable to the body are obtained. -Thus, when the day is damp and cloudy, the dark side of the poncho, -which absorbs the most heat, is turned towards the light, while the -reverse is the case when the red surface is presented to the sun. On the -same principle, the _manta_, or white linen poncho, is worn when the sun -is very powerful, the color in this instance repelling the rays of light -more readily than the red surface of woollen materials. The _manta_ is a -very expensive luxury on account of the embroideries that usually -decorate it, and which might rival in elegance the finest skirt of a New -York or Parisian _belle_. When worn by a gallant cavalier on a sunny -day, it presents in the distance a very picturesque appearance, not -unlike the graceful bornouse of the Arabs. - -Equally useful and expensive is the hammock, one of the few articles of -native manufacture produced in Venezuela, and one which has thus far -baffled the ingenuity of foreign weavers to imitate. It is woven by hand -on looms of rude construction in very tasteful designs, and trimmed with -fringings of the most complicated pattern. A fine hammock costs from -fifty to sixty dollars. - -It may truly be said that with hammock, poncho, and the saddle with its -array of pockets, &c., the roving dwellers of the pampas are at home -wherever they may be. They are, in fact, the tent, bed, and valise best -adapted to the country, affording them all the comfort that a princely -rajah could experience under his gorgeous panoply of oriental -magnificence, and possessing, moreover, the advantage of being easily -conveyed from place to place, in a small compass, by the riders. The -hammock and the poncho usually form a bundle behind the saddle; with -them the traveller makes himself a tent when camping out, by stretching -out a rope from end to end of the hammock, over which the poncho is -thrown at oblique angles, and then tied securely to the rope. Under it -the traveller may now defy the storm, and even Old Boreas himself, as -the stronger the tent is impelled to and fro, the more lulling to the -sleeper will be the motion imparted to it from the outside. - -It is surprising to see a horse of so small stature as those from the -Llanos generally are, carry on his back both the weight of the rider and -his ponderous equipment for such considerable distances; but the fact -is, that the loads are so well distributed and counterbalanced, that the -animals feel no material inconvenience therefrom. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE MORROS. - - -Early the next morning we were aroused by the trampling of horses and -tinkling of stirrups close to our resting places, apprising us that the -hour of departure was near at hand. To travel with comfort in those hot -regions, it is necessary to make the most of the absence of the sun, -before its rays descend to the earth in glowing streams, parching the -body and spirits of the traveller. Our people, therefore, commenced to -saddle and load as early as three o’clock A.M. The operation usually -occupied considerable time, as each animal had to be hunted in the dark, -as well as its accoutrements. The baggage mules, especially, required -more than ordinary skill in replacing and adjusting the loads upon their -backs by means of a hundred turns of the _lazos_, or raw-hide halters. -And even after the greatest precautions, the vicious creatures -endeavored to displace their loads by running against each other or -rolling on the ground, to the inconceivable disgust of the drivers, who -were often compelled to alight from their sumpters to put things to -rights. - -Our road lay this day across a wild and desolate valley, presenting the -appearance of having once been the scene of violent convulsions of -nature, judging from the distorted masses of granite and gneiss piled -along the route. The morning, though moonless, was bright with stars, -which in those latitudes sparkle like diamonds in a setting of azure. -The air was balmy; and the solitude of the spot, only broken by the -occasional shriek of a night owl, or the refreshing murmur of a mountain -stream, was truly sublime. - -Slowly winding our course down the rugged sides of a deep ravine, we -came suddenly in view of a most glorious spectacle. The delicate tints -of dawn were already gilding the rugged crest of the distant mountains; -above these rose in silent grandeur what appeared at first a heavy cloud -of an intense blue, the irregular outlines of which set in bold relief -against the transparent sky, forming the background to the picture. I -eagerly spurred my mule forward to gain an eminence from whence I could -contemplate more advantageously that magnificent spectacle, when, to my -great astonishment, I discovered that, what I had supposed a cloud, was -in fact the famous promontory known as the Morros de San Juan, the -singular conformation of which has given rise to many speculations and -legendary dissertations on the part of savants and others less versed in -scientific researches. When the sun rose above the horizon, a more -extraordinary scene was never unfolded to the eye of the spectator. The -huge and rugged mountain, some thousand feet high, stood in the midst of -a desolate gulf, apparently of volcanic origin; while the vegetation, -stunted and scrubby for want of adequate nourishment, contrasted -singularly with the granite masses scattered all over the valley. The -meandering rivulet of La Puerta, twice the scene of sanguinary conflicts -between patriots and Spaniards, threaded its sparkling way through that -Valley of Death, to mix its waters with those of the beautiful Guárico -in the distance. In both of those engagements the arms of Spain were -victorious; but, as often happened in those days of _guerra á muerte_, -the victors steeped their laurels in the blood of the vanquished with -unsparing hand. These triumphs were shared alternately by the monster -Boves and the sanguinary Morillo. It would be difficult to find two more -bloody wretches than these myrmidons of despotism, whose very names are -to this day the avenging cry against the race from which they both -sprang. The forces opposed to them in these engagements hardly amounted -to one-half their own numbers; but the patriots under Bolívar accepted -the battle with the despair of men who have no alternative between death -and an ignominious yoke. It is asserted that the rivulet became, on both -occasions, completely glutted with the gore and dead bodies of the -vanquished. Morillo had a very narrow escape from the lance of the -famous Juan Pablo Farfan, who deliberately attacked the Spanish -chieftain in the midst of his staff. Although the bold Llanero succeeded -in piercing the groin of the Spaniard with his lance, the wound was not -sufficiently deep to cause his death. - - * * * * * - -The rugged crest of the mountain surrounded by an atmosphere -resplendently clear, the wild and shattered rocks, piled like the giant -skeletons of an extinct race, together with the painful associations -connected with the spot, made an impression upon my mind not easily -forgotten. - -Although I had often experienced a keen desire to see this natural -wonder of my country, I could not repress a feeling of regret at the -recollection of the sanguinary scenes enacted on this spot, and that my -first impressions of astonishment should be replaced by others of a less -pleasing character. - -On awakening from the reverie into which the scene had plunged me, I -perceived for the first time that I was alone, my less contemplative -companions having proceeded on their journey while I was absorbed in -wonder. I felt glad of my solitude, for the very silence seemed to -breathe a prayer to the Almighty for the martyred children of Liberty -before one of his most glorious temples. - -[Illustration] - -We reached the village of San Juan in time to breakfast at the house of -our excellent friend Don José Pulido, a gentleman of most amiable and -hospitable disposition. While they prepared our morning meal, I repaired -to the outskirts of the village to sketch the Morros, which from the -distance appeared two huge castles in ruins. The continued action of the -waters has furrowed the sides of the mountain--composed principally of a -peculiar limestone--into many fantastic forms. The same wearing action -has in like manner perforated the calcareous rock into a thousand -subterranean passages or chasms of fathomless depth, it being asserted -by persons who have approached sufficiently near the entrance of these -caves, that a bowlder rolled down the abyss, is never heard to strike -the bottom. I regretted exceedingly that our short stay at this place -would not permit me to visit the interior of the main entrance to these -subterranean passages, no person ever having ventured within the dark -abode--as it is currently believed--of demons and the like. As a proof -of this assertion, the villagers point out to the inquisitive traveller -a spring issuing from that Tartarus highly charged with sulphurated -hydrogen gas, the fumes of which are in themselves sufficiently powerful -to convey the idea that something diabolical must be brewing in the -bowels of the stupendous mountain. The spring, however, possesses highly -medicinal virtues; on this account it is often visited by invalids from -various parts of the country, especially those affected with rheumatic -or scrofulous complaints. - -During a heavy freshet, the bones of an antediluvian animal, supposed -to be those of a mastodon, were disinterred by the torrent in the bed of -a ravine. A portion of these bones were sent to us by our zealous friend -Don José, as a great curiosity; as such they were transferred to the -British Minister at Caracas, and finally consigned by him to the great -Museum in London. - -The village of San Juan is likewise noted for its fine climate and the -total absence of epidemics. Invalids affected with pulmonary complaints -find there also an air and temperature most congenial. Beyond these -advantages, San Juan offers no other attractions to the stranger capable -of inducing a longer sojourn than is absolutely necessary, as not even a -ranch has been raised there for the convenience of those seeking its -beneficent waters. - -After partaking of a substantial breakfast, composed of the most popular -dishes of the country, such as _carne frita_, _sancocho_, and some -delicious fish from the river Guárico, we bade adieu to our estimable -host, Don José, and continued our journey down the stony bottom of a -narrow _quebrada_ or ravine, noted for its many windings, and the -quantities of sharp stones that pave the way; these are evidently the -detached fragments of the basaltic formation constituting the base of -the Morros. At Flores, a miserable country inn like all the rest along -this route, we stopped a few moments to refresh ourselves with -_guarapo_, a kind of cider made from the juice of sugar cane, or by -dissolving _papelon_ in water and allowing it to ferment for a few days. -The guarapo of Flores is celebrated throughout the country, and no -person passing through this place ever omits to call for it. When mixed -with aguardiente, it forms what is termed _carabina_, (carbine;) the -effects rarely fail to knock down those who rashly brave its fire. - -Our next stopping place was the village of Ortiz, a little beyond that -of Parapara. Taken together, they might be considered as the Pillars of -Hercules to the grassy Mediterranean of the Llanos, and the terminus of -civilized pursuits in that quarter, as there you find the last vestiges -of agriculture and the useful arts. In addition to small patches of -sugar cane and Indian corn raised by the inhabitants for their own -consumption, they excel in the manufacture of leather, saddles, and -their appurtenances, which they sell to all parts of the country. Beyond -this, nothing is to be met with but wild herds of cattle grazing on -prairies or steppes of vast extent, with the exception of the narrow -belt of park-like scenery intervening between these and a ridge of low, -rocky hills--_galeras_--which skirts the ancient shore of the great -basin of those pampas. The _galeras_ were doubtless the natural rampart -of that extraordinary body of waters which, at some remote epoch, must -have filled the space now forming the grazing grounds of Venezuela, as -attested by the nature of the soil and the organic remains found -imbedded in the clay. - -I noticed at Ortiz the same trap formation of the Morros, with extensive -beds of basaltic slate protruding through the sides of the hills. Entire -columns of this slate, varying from four to five feet in length by six -inches diameter, are used in the village for paving the thresholds of -houses, their quadrangular form adapting them perfectly for this purpose -without any additional labor after being detached from the rock. The -action of the waters during the untold lapse of ages, or perhaps the -irruptions of the sea itself when it beat against the sides of the -hills, has caused the partial disintegration of the rock in many places, -and scattered the debris far and wide over the surrounding country. -Nevertheless, vegetation seemed nowhere affected in the least by this -vast accumulation of loose stones; on the contrary, wherever it was -favored by the depressions of the ground, trees of large dimensions, -noted for hardness and durability, sprang up, forming dense forests on -either side of the road. Foremost in the long catalogue of splendid -timber trees of Venezuela, we found there growing in great perfection -the _Vera_, or Lignum Vitæ--Zigophylum arboreum--the wood of which is so -hard that it turns the edge of the best-tempered tools; breaking or -splitting it seems equally impossible, on account of the interweaving of -its fibres, which cross each other in diagonal layers. This tree has a -wide range over the country, especially near the sea-coast, which -circumstance renders it extremely useful in the construction of wharves, -as well as for the keels of ships; the attacks of the teredo or seaworm -are futile upon the iron network of its fibres, on which account it can -remain under water for an indefinite period and eventually become -petrified. The useful _Guayacan_ or guaiacum of the arts, a nearly -allied species of this tree, is also found here in the greatest -abundance; unfortunately it is too short to be employed for the same -purposes as the former; it finds, however, numerous applications in -naval construction, especially for blocks and pulleys for the rigging of -vessels. Turners employ it likewise for various articles requiring -extreme hardness and a close grain. - -The _Alcornoque_, a most beautiful tree, somewhat resembling the -American elm, and scarcely inferior to the foregoing, raises here its -graceful head above the rest, affording the cattle a permanent shade -even during the driest seasons. It must not be confounded, however, with -the well-known Spanish oak--Quercus suber--which yields the cork of -commerce. It is largely employed in the Llanos in the construction of -houses and fences. Braziletto wood--Cesalpinia braziletto--so celebrated -for its beautiful dye, is so abundant here also, that all the fences at -Ortiz and Parapara are made of this valuable dyewood. - -The list of useful trees peculiar to this region could be extended -beyond the limits of this chapter, were it not for the fear of taxing -the patience of my reader with an abstract nomenclature. I cannot pass -unnoticed, however, two other trees of no less importance to the -natives, on account of their timber and medicinal properties; these are -the _Tacamahaca_--Elaphrium tomentosum--and the tree that yields the -precious balsam of copaiva--Copaifera officinalis. By making incisions -in the trunk and branches of both these trees, a resinous fluid, -possessing great healing powers when applied to wounds and other -ailments of the flesh, is obtained in great abundance and collected in -tin cans placed under the incisions. The former is particularly -abundant in the province of Guayana, where it attains to great -dimensions. Its resin, an opaque, lemon-colored substance resembling -wax, is very fragrant, and when mixed with that of _Caraña_ or -_Algarroba_, forms excellent torches which burn with great brilliancy, -and emit a delicious odor. The bark is also remarkable as affording a -material similar to that employed by the North American Indians in the -construction of their canoes, and used similarly by their brethren of -the Orinoco for their light pirogues. With this object the Indian -separates the bark without breaking, and cutting it of the required -dimensions, proceeds to join the extremities by means of _bejucos_ or -slender vines, filling the interstices with a little moist clay to throw -off the water; the whole is then well bound with stronger vines, and a -couple or more sticks are affixed between the borders of the pirogue to -prevent its collapsing when launched into the broad stream. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -THE LLANOS. - - -We left Ortiz as usual, very early the next morning, stumbling here and -there amidst the mass of loose stones which paved the way all along the -winding bed of the _quebrada_. In proportion as we advanced on our -route, the hills decreased in size, while the loose stones seemed to -increase in quantity. The splendid groves of hardy and balsamiferous -trees, which near Ortiz formed an almost impenetrable forest, gradually -became less imposing in appearance, until they were replaced by thickets -of thorny bushes, chiefly composed of several species of mimosas, with a -delicate and feathery foliage. The traveller accustomed to the shade of -a luxuriant vegetation, and to the sight of cultivated valleys, is -struck by the rapid diminution of the former, and the total -disappearance of the latter, as he emerges from the Galeras of Ortiz: -yet he is somewhat compensated by the almost overpowering _perfume_ shed -by masses of the canary-colored blossoms with which these shrubs are -loaded, from the - -[Illustration: THE LLANOS.] - -summits down to the bending branches that trail the ground at every -passing breeze. - -Suddenly we entered a widely-extended tract of level land almost -destitute of vegetation. With the exception of a few clumps of -palm-trees with fan-like leaves, nothing but short grass covered its -entire surface, almost realizing the idea of “an ocean covered with -sea-weed.” A dense mass of vapor pervading the atmosphere obscured the -horizon, while the fan-palms, seen from afar, appeared like ships -enveloped in a fog. Gradually the circle of the heavens seemed to close -around us, until we became, as it were, encompassed by the sky. We were, -in fact, treading the shores of the great basin of the Llanos, over one -of the ancient shoals or _Mesas_, which, like successive terraces, now -form the borders of those grassy oceans known as the Pampas. This was -the Mesa de Paya, the seat of one of the cattle-farms to which we were -bound. - -After wandering for nearly three hours over this monotonous landscape -without compass, and guided only by certain landmarks known to the -_vaqueanos_, we came unexpectedly upon the borders of the Mesa, which -commands an extensive view of the lower savannas. As if by magic the -dreary scene changed to one of the most glorious panoramas in existence. -At our feet lay a beautiful expanse of meadow, fresh and smooth as the -best cultivated lawn, with troops of horses and countless herds of -cattle dispersed all over the plain. Several glittering ponds, alive -with all varieties of aquatic birds, reflected upon their limpid surface -the broad-leaved crowns of the fan-palms, towering above verdant groves -of laurel, amyris, and elm-like _robles_. Further beyond, and as far as -the eye could reach, the undulating plain appeared like a petrified -ocean, after the sweeping tempest. - -But I feel that my descriptions fall short of the reality, and that I am -unable to depict the harmonious effects of light and shade, and the -blending of the various tints of green, blue and purple, dispersed over -this extensive panorama; the gentle undulations of the plain; the -towering palms gracefully fanning the glowing atmosphere with their -majestic crowns of broad and shining leaves; and myriad other beauties -difficult to enumerate. - -I could scarcely tear myself away from the spot, so fascinated was I -with the novelty of the scene. My companions, more concerned for the -speedy termination of the journey than the beautiful in nature, set off -at a brisk trot towards the house, which was at no great distance. -Fearing to lose my way among the intricate paths leading to it, I was -compelled to follow in their wake, stopping occasionally to gaze once -more upon those enchanting groves, which seemed to return me to the -highly cultivated fields and green meadows of glorious “Old England,” -whence I had just returned. - -On descending to the plain below, my attention was attracted to an -unsightly group of palm-thatched huts, looking more like huge bee-hives -than the abode of human beings. A formidable fence of palm trunks -surrounded the premises, and several acres of ground beyond. These were -the _corrals_, or enclosures where the training of the fierce herds was -practised by the hardy dwellers of the Llanos; but no signs of -cultivation, or aught else connected with the rural occupations of the -farmer, were visible in the neighborhood. Presently the cavalcade -stopped before the gate, and all the individuals composing it dismounted -and began to unsaddle their horses amidst the barking of a legion of -dogs, and the braying of all the donkeys in the vicinity. - -This was the _hato_ or cattle-farm of San Pablo we were in quest of, -famous in the annals of the civil wars in Venezuela, as the occasional -head-quarters of the constitutional armies, commanded by the owner of -this farm. Our leader was received at the entrance of his estate, by a -grave and elderly negro slave, who acted as overseer, and had under his -control all the men and property attached to it. Kneeling upon the stony -court-yard, he kissed the hand extended to him in friendly greeting, -after which he proceeded to unsaddle his master’s horse, which he led to -a pond within the enclosure, where the horses were watered. - -We purposed remaining a few days at San Pablo, with the object of -incorporating some fresh relays of mules and horses from the abundant -stock of this estate: so we of the staff installed ourselves under the -palm-roof of our rustic mansion, while the rank and file of the -expedition found accommodation in the open barracoons adjoining it; -although none of the party had reason to boast of being better off than -their neighbor. - -“It is sad when pleasing first impressions are obliterated,” remarks a -sentimental writer; “always painful to become _desenchanté_ on a more -intimate acquaintance with either people or places.” I soon found that I -was not in the fairy land I had imagined, abounding in grottos and -refreshed by sparkling fountains, but in the region of the Llanos where -the French adage, _chacun pour soi et Dieu pour tous_, is verified to -its fullest extent. San Pablo, with its vaunted prestige, and in spite -of its proximity to several important marts, was no better provided with -accommodations than the untidy douar of the wandering Arab of the -Desert. A rickety table standing against the wall for fear of tumbling -down, two or three clumsy cedar chairs covered with raw-hide, and a -couple of grass hammocks, serving the double purpose of beds and -lounges, constituted all the furniture of the great farm. As a -substitute for wardrobes and hat-stands, we were shown a number of -deer-antlers and bull-horns imbedded in the walls of reeds and mud, on -which to hang our pouches, bridles, &c. I searched in vain, on our -arrival, for something like a bowl in which to lave my hands and face, -covered with dust and parched by the broiling sun of the savannas. Even -water was so scarce that it was served to us sparingly from a large -calabash gourd used in bringing it from the river, nearly a mile -distant. It is true there was, within the enclosure of the houses, a -pond or excavation, made while searching for the remains of a brave -officer who fell fighting for his country’s freedom. Sufficient water -had accumulated there during the rainy season to entitle it to the name -of _Laguna_, or Lake of Genaro Vazquez, the name of the afore-mentioned -hero; but it was so filled with _Bavas_--a small species of -alligator,--terrapins, and toads, as to render the water undrinkable. - -But to return to our head-quarters, the structure of which struck me so -forcibly at first as a bee-hive of vast proportions, naturally -suggesting the idea of a “land of milk and honey.” Unfortunately neither -of these could be obtained either for love or money, although the woods -and pastures of the estate abounded in both the creatures that produced -them. So we were compelled to resort to our reserved stock of _papelon_ -to sweeten our coffee, and to its own delicious natural aroma in the -place of milk. As to the house itself, it only differed from the rest in -that region in being larger, and perhaps in better order than are the -generality. Imagine a pyramidal structure, thatched with palm leaves, -the roof slanting to within a few feet of the ground, and supported on -stout posts of live timber, which served also as framework for the -walls, and you will have some idea of the style of architecture peculiar -to the country. Doors and windows are of no account in a country -uniformly warm throughout the year, and where the inhabitants possess -few articles capable of tempting the cupidity of light-fingered gentry. -Therefore, an ox-hide stretched across the openings left in the walls to -admit light and the inmates, is all that is required to keep off -uninvited guests. As an exception, to this rule, our mansion of San -Pablo had one or two rooms set apart for invalids, provided with doors -and windows of solid planks of timber in the rough; the other apartments -had the upper half of the walls purposely left open, to admit full and -free entrance of light and air. A narrow piazza or corridor, formed by -the slanting of the roof to within five feet of the ground, ran along -the entire length of the main building, and was intended more as a -protection to the rooms against the sun and rains, than as a resort for -the inmates. - -The first step, on arriving, was to secure a place in the open reception -room, for my own chattels and hammock, before all the spare posts and -hooks had been appropriated by my companions. This accomplished, I -proceeded to a thorough examination of my saddle and its accoutrements, -so as to have them adapted to the peculiar mode of travelling in the -Llanos. This care I left to the good judgment of our attendants, not -being myself sufficiently skilled in the art of mending, greasing, and -putting in order the complicated gear of our riding equipment. In the -same predicament were also my two English companions, and our worthy -doctor; a kind word, however, addressed to the good-natured -Llaneros--especially if accompanied with a drop of aguardiente--never -failed of enlisting their services in our favor. - -Habit, as well as necessity, is sometimes the mother of invention, as my -experience soon taught me that, to get along in my new quarters, it -would be requisite to set aside the airs and insignia of civilization. -Divesting myself, therefore, of all such superfluities as coat, cravat, -pants, and shoes, I adopted the less cumbrous attire of the Llaneros, -consisting mainly of breeches tightly buttoned at the knee, and a loose -shirt, usually of a bright checkered pattern. Shoes are altogether -dispensed with in a country like the Llanos, subject to drenching rains, -and covered with mud during a great portion of the year, besides the -inconvenience they offer to the rider in holding the stirrup securely -when in chase of wild animals. The leg, however, is well protected from -the thorns and cutting grass of the savannas by a neat legging or -_botin_, made of buffskin, tightly buttoned down the calf by knobs or -studs of highly polished silver. Another characteristic article of -dress, and one in which the wearers take great pride, is the linen -checkered handkerchief, loosely worn around the head. Its object is -ostensibly to protect it from the intensity of the sun’s rays; but the -constant habit of wearing it has rendered the handkerchief as -indispensable a headdress to the Llaneros as is the cravat to the neck -of the city gentleman. - -One angle of the building was devoted to the kitchen, and rooms for the -overseer and his family; the other was set apart for a store-room, -suggesting hidden treasures of good things for the comfort of the inner -man. Being naturally inquisitive, I lost no time in investigating the -contents of the _bodega_; but instead of sweetmeats, fresh cheese, or -even bread, and butter,--articles of easy manufacture in the Llanos, on -which I had feasted my imagination,--I found the place filled with -roaches, pack-saddles, old bridles, lazos, and _tasajo_ or jerked beef. -This last is prepared by cutting fresh beef into long strips, and -exposing them to dry in the sun, first rubbing them thoroughly with -salt. Animal substances spoil so readily in tropical climates, that -unless this precaution is taken immediately after a bullock is -slaughtered, the meat becomes tainted in a short time. Two or three -days’ exposure to the hot sun of the Llanos, is _sufficient_ to render -the beef as dry and tough as leather; in this state, it may be stored -away for six months without spoiling. The older the better; age -imparting to it that peculiar rank flavor which makes _tasajo_ so highly -prized by people of all ranks in Cuba and other West India Islands. -Large shipments of this beef have been made from Venezuela to those -places; but the competition of Buenos Ayres has reduced of late the -profits arising from this branch of our exports. The manner of killing -and quartering an animal in the Llanos deserves particular mention. The -cattle being usually some distance from the house, two horsemen are -despatched after the victim; one of them gallops close to the animal’s -rear, and throwing his unerring lazo at its head, drags it along, while -his companion urges it on by means of his _garrocha_ or goad, until they -reach the sacrificial post: one or two turns of the lazo around this, -bring the animal close to the _botalon_; the matador then plunges the -point of his dagger into the vertebræ back of the head, and the -struggling beast drops as if struck by an electric spark; a second -thrust of the bloody dagger into his throat severs the artery, and the -blood gushes in torrents through the wound from every part of his body. -The prostrate victim is now turned upon its back, and a long incision -made lengthwise of the belly, preparatory to flaying and cutting up the -carcass. When the animal is not intended to be immediately slaughtered, -he is tied to the post by a succession of coils from the lazo around his -horns, and left there until the fatal moment comes to despatch him. - -One night I was awakened by a terrific bellowing proceeding from the -_botalon_; but, as I knew there was no bullock there for slaughter at -the moment, I was at a loss how to account for this uproarious serenade. -Curiosity led me to inquire into the cause, and directing my steps -towards the spot, I beheld a group of about a dozen bulls, smelling at -the blood of their former companions, and ploughing up the gore with -their hoofs, evidently in great distress. This continued for some time, -until, finding their bewailing by moonlight rather too touching even for -artists’ ears, we ordered them to be driven away, in spite of the -sublimity of the scene. I had other opportunities of witnessing similar -testimonials of respect, whenever a herd of cattle approached the place -of execution, which never failed to impress me deeply with a feeling of -compassion for their sorrows. - -Every morning an animal was slaughtered for us. Our meals consisted of -roast beef, without either vegetables or wheaten bread. Indian corn we -had in abundance, both in the grain and in the husk; but before it could -be converted into _arepas_--the favorite bread of the country--it -required to be passed through a variety of operations each day, which -made the process rather tedious, as the grain must first be hulled by -pounding it in large wooden mortars, adding a handful of sand and a -little water: next the grain must be separated from the chaff, -thoroughly washed, and then boiled over a slow fire. In doing this, care -must be used, for if too soft it will not answer the purpose. Finally it -is ground to a paste between two stones, formed into flat cakes, and -baked in shallow pans of earthenware. The result of all this labor is -bread exceedingly white and nourishing; but it has the disadvantage of -becoming tough and unpalatable when cold. Under the popular name of -_tortillas_, this bread is also extensively used in Mexico and Central -America, although inferior to our own. - -[Illustration] - -Even this was considered a great luxury at San Pablo, few other -cattle-farms being provided with the necessary utensils for its -manufacture, and still fewer the number of those that will grow -sufficient corn for the consumption of their inmates. The Llaneros are -essentially a pastoral people, and trouble themselves but little with -the cultivation of the land, considering it rather derogatory to bend -their heads, even to mother Earth. Hence their homes are usually in a -state of utter wretchedness, being unprovided even with the commonest -necessaries. Although the land is extremely fertile, and would well -repay the labor with abundant crops of every kind of grain, they do not -consider bread an essential, using instead a piece of boiled liver, -which in their estimation answers just as well. Therefore the divine -command, which enjoins us to earn our daily bread by the sweat of the -brow, is not much regarded by them. In the midst of countless herds, and -surrounded with the most munificent gifts of a bountiful Providence, -they are often even without fresh meat; not because they are sparing of -their cattle, which in that country bears a nominal value, but because -they are naturally abstemious; and as for milk and butter, they despise -both as food only fit for children. Cheese, however, is a favorite -article of food with them, and in its preparation, they display -considerable ability, especially the delicious kind termed _queso de -manos_, a species of boiled cheese. As some of my readers may wish to -experiment in making it, I will give them the recipe. Curd the milk in -the usual way, and boil the curd in its own whey. When about the -consistency of molasses candy, stretch it out repeatedly with the hands -until cold. Add a little salt to the mass; roll it into flat cakes, and -hang the cheese to drain in nets suspended from the ceiling. When -pulled, it will separate in layers which look like parchment, retaining -all the flavor of the milk. - -The cows, being half wild in most cases, require to be milked by main -force. To accomplish this, one of the dairymen throws a noose around the -horns of the animal, and holds it secure by means of a long pole -attached to the thong, while another proceeds to milk it in the usual -way; but none will yield a drop, unless the calf is first allowed to -suck a little, and then tied to the mother’s knee. - -Every cow is distinguished by a fancy name, such as Clavellina, Flor del -Campo, Marabilla, and others equally euphonious and poetical. When -called to be milked, the tame ones immediately answer in suppressed -bellowings, and come forward of their own accord, while the calves -confined in the pen, on hearing their mothers’ names, run along the -fence in search of the gate; a boy, stationed there for the purpose, -lets fall one of the bars, and off they bound after the mothers. - -The men perform there altogether the occupations allotted to women in -other countries, such as milking the cows, curding the milk, and turning -out the cheese when ready. They do not even disdain cooking their own -food, and washing their own garments, when occasion requires. Of the -women, I may be permitted to quote here what Sir Francis Head, in his -quaint style, says with reference to those in the Pampas of Buenos -Ayres, as being equally applicable to their sisters of the Llanos: “The -habits of the women are very curious: they have literally nothing to do, -the great plains which surround them offer no motive to work, they -seldom ride, and _their_ lives certainly are very indolent and inactive. -They all have families, however, whether married or not; and once when I -inquired of a young woman employed in nursing a very pretty child, who -was the father of the ‘criatura,’ she replied ‘Quien sabe?’”[20] - -But it is time to introduce my reader to a more intimate acquaintance -with this singular race of people, whose manliness, bravery, and skill -in waging a constant war, not only with the wild animals of the field, -but against the proud legions of Iberia, entitle them to a place among -the heroes of the earth. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE LLANEROS. - - “Dicheso aquel que alcanza - Como rico don del Cielo, - Para defender su suelo - Buen caballo y buena lanza.” - --AROLAS. - - -The people inhabiting the vast region of the Llanos, although claiming -descent from the old Castilian race, once the rulers of the land, are, -in fact, an amalgamation of the various castes composing the present -population of the Republic. These are, the whites, or the descendants of -the European settlers of the country; the aboriginals or Indians, and a -great proportion of blacks. In most of the towns the native whites -preponderate over all others, and represent the wealth, as well as the -most respectable portion of the community; in the villages and thinly -populated districts of the plains, a mongrel breed resulting from the -admixture of these three, constitute the majority of the inhabitants. -These are dispersed over an area of 27,000 square miles, making a -proportion of only fourteen individuals, out of a population of -390,000, to every square mile. - -This race, although vastly inferior to the first in mental capacity and -moral worth, is endowed with a physique admirably adapted to endure the -fatigues of a life beset with dangers and hardships.[21] Cast upon a -wild and apparently interminable plain, the domain of savage beasts and -poisonous reptiles, their lot has been to pass all their life in a -perpetual struggle, not only with the primitive possessors of the land, -but with the elements themselves, often as fierce as they are grand. -When it is not the alarm of the dreaded viper or the spotted jaguar, it -is the sudden inroad of vast inundations, which, spreading with fearful -rapidity over the land, sweep off in one moment their frail habitations -and their herds. Nevertheless, this insecure existence, this continual -struggle between life and death, between rude intellect and matter, has -for the Llanero a sort of fascination, perhaps not so well understood by -people possessing the blessings and ideas of civilization, but without -which he could not exist, especially if deprived of his horse and cast -among the mountain region north of his cherished plains. The Modern -Centaur of the desolate regions of the New World, the Llanero spends his -life on horseback; all his actions and exertions must be assisted by his -horse; for him the noblest effort of man is, when gliding swiftly over -the boundless plain and bending over his spirited charger, he overturns -an enemy or masters a wild bull. The following lines of Victor Hugo seem -as though copied from this model: “He would not fight but on horseback; -he forms but one person with his horse; he lives on horseback; trades, -buys, and sells on horseback; eats, drinks, sleeps, and dreams on -horseback.” Like the Arab, he considers his horse his best and most -reliable friend on earth, often depriving himself of rest and comfort -after a hard day’s journey to afford his faithful companion abundance of -food and water. It is not at all surprising, therefore, to hear the -bard--all Llaneros are poets more or less--exclaim, after the loss of -both his wife and valued horse: - - Mi muger y mi caballo - Se me murieron á un tiempo; - Que muger, ni que demonio, - Mi caballo es lo que siento. - - My wife and my valued horse - Died both at the same time; - To the devil with my wife, - For my horse do I repine. - -Few people in the world are better riders than the Llaneros of -Venezuela, if we except perhaps the Gauchos of Buenos Ayres, or equal to -either in the dexterity they display in the wonderful feats of -horsemanship to which their occupations in the field inure them from -childhood. Their horses, moreover, are so well trained to the various -evolutions of their profession, that animal and rider seem to possess -but one existence. - -The life of the Llanero, like that of the Gaucho his prototype, is -singularly interesting, and resembles in many respects that of others -who, like them, have their abode in the midst of extensive plains. Thus -they have been aptly styled the Cossacks and the Arabs of the New World, -with both of whom they have many points in common, but more especially -do they resemble the last named. When visiting the famous Constantine -Gallery of paintings at Versailles, I was struck with the resemblance of -the Algerine heroes of Horace Vernet with our own, revealing at once the -Moorish descent of the latter, independently of other characteristic -peculiarities. - -The inimitable author of “Journeys Across The Pampas,” already quoted, -alluding to the life of these wild shepherds of the plains, compares it -very appropriately to the rise and progress of a young eagle, so -beautifully described by Horace in the following verses: - - Olim juventas et patrius vigor - Nidum laborum propulit inscium; - Vernique, jam nimbis remotis, - Insolitos docuere nisus - Venti paventem; mox in ovilia - Demisit hostem vividus impetus; - Nunc in reluctantes dracones - Egit amor dapis atque pugnæ. - - --HORACE, Book iv., Ode iv. - - “Whom native vigor, and the rush - Of youth have spurr’d to quit the nest, - And skies of blue, in springtide’s flush, - Entice aloft to breast - The gales he fear’d before his lordly plumes were drest. - - “Now swooping, eager for his prey, - Spreads havoc through the flutter’d fold; - Straight, fired by love of food and fray, - In grapple fierce and bold, - The struggling dragons rends, e’en in their rocky hold.” - - --TRANSLATION BY MARTIN. - -“Born in the rude hut, the infant Gaucho receives little attention, but -is left to swing from the roof in a bullock’s hide, the corners of which -are drawn towards each other by four strips of hide. In the first year -of his life he crawls about without clothes, and I have more than once -seen a mother give a child of this age a sharp knife, a foot long, to -play with. As soon as he walks, his infantine amusements are those which -prepare him for the occupations of his future life; with a lazo made of -twine he tries to catch little birds, or the dogs, as they walk in and -out of the hut. By the time he is four years old he is on horseback, and -immediately becomes useful by assisting to drive the cattle into the -corral.” - -When sufficiently strong to cope with a wild animal, the young Llanero -is taken to the _majada_ or great cattle-pen, and there hoisted upon the -bare back of a fierce young bull. With his face turned towards the -animal’s tail, which he holds in lieu of bridle, and his little legs -twisted around the neck of his antagonist, he is whirled round and round -at a furious rate. His position, as may be imagined, is any thing but -equestrian; yet, the fear of coming in contact with the bull’s horns -compels the rider to hold on until, by a dexterous twist of the animal’s -tail while he jumps off its back, he succeeds in overturning his -antagonist. - -In proportion as he grows older and stronger, a more manly amusement is -afforded him with the breaking in of a wild colt. This being, however, a -more dangerous experiment, in which many a “young eagle” is rendered a -“lame duck,” he is provided with the necessary accoutrements to -withstand the terrible struggle with the animal. Firmly seated upon his -back and brandishing overhead a tough _chaparro_ vine for a whip, the -apprentice is thus installed in his new office, from which he must not -descend until the brute is perfectly subdued; the coil of lazo in the -hands of his merciless instructor would be the least evil awaiting him -should he otherwise escape safe and sound from the desperate kicks and -plunges of the horse. - -Here commences what we may term, the public life of the Llanero; his -education is now considered complete. From this moment all his endeavors -and ambition will be to rival his companions in the display of physical -force, which he shows to an admirable degree when, armed with his tough -lazo, he pursues the wild animals of his domain. If a powerful bull or -wild horse tries to escape into the open plain, the cavalier unfurls the -noose which is always ready by his side, and the fugitive is quickly -brought back to the corral. Should the thong give way under the -impetuous flight of the animal, the rider seizes him by the tail, and -whirling round suddenly, pulls towards him with so much force as to -cause his immediate overthrow. - -In all these exercises the roving cavalier of the Llanos acquires that -feeling of security and enduring disposition for which he is famous. -Unfortunately, it is often turned to account in disturbing the balance -of power among his more enlightened countrymen; for he is always ready -to join the first revolutionary movement offering him the best chances -for equipping himself with arms of all descriptions. Next to the horse, -the Llanero esteems those weapons which give him a superiority over his -fellow-creatures, viz., a lance, a blunderbuss, and a fine sword. If he -is unprovided with either of these, he considers himself a miserable and -degraded being, and all his efforts will tend to gratify this favorite -vanity, even at the risk of his own life. Therefore he goes to war, -because he is sure, if victorious, of finding the battle-field covered -with these tempting trophies of his ambition. In this, unfortunately, he -is too often encouraged by a host of unprincipled politicians who, not -wishing to earn a livelihood by fair means, are eternally plotting -against the powers that be. - -The style of sword worn by the Llaneros differs little from that used -by Spaniards of the middle ages, the hilt being surmounted by a guard in -the shape of a reversed cup, affording an excellent protection to the -hand that wields it, while the blade is made with two edges, instead of -one. Most of these swords are mounted in silver, the same as the -accompanying dagger, another of their favorite weapons; and such is the -passion among Llaneros for glittering swords and daggers, that they -would sooner dispense with a house or a corral, than with either of -these expensive commodities. - -The lance comes next in importance, and in their hands is quite a -formidable weapon, which they are enabled to handle with great -dexterity, from their constant practice with the _garrocha_ or goad with -which they drive and turn the cattle. As an element of war, the lance -has become celebrated in the country, having rendered the cause of -Independence the most effectual service in repelling the attacks of the -sanguinary hosts sent by Spain against the indomitable “Rebeldes” of -Colombia. - -The _trabuco_ or blunderbuss, too, is held in great estimation as a -weapon of defence, or rather of aggression, as they are at all times -ready to test its powers on the slightest provocation; and nobody thinks -of travelling in that desert country without one of these wide-mouthed -spitfires by his side. - -Being rather of a superstitious turn of mind, these people believe that -by decorating their deadly weapons with some insignia of their religion, -they are rendered more effectual; the cross surmounts their swords and -daggers; while the rosary and _agnus Dei_ entwine the butt-end of their -_trabucos_, when called into requisition. Thus they are emboldened to -perform acts of desperate valor which, under any other circumstances, -would be considered rash in the extreme. - -Such is the religious faith of these benighted people; a religion of -form and superstition rather than conviction. Christianity, like the -Spanish language, exists among them, it is true; but corrupted and -enveloped in dark superstition, almost bordering on idolatry. It cannot, -however, be expected that a widely scattered population over so -extensive an area of desert plains, should possess any means of -enlightenment beyond what is conveyed to them through the few teachers -distributed among the principal towns of the interior. Therefore it is -not an unusual thing to meet with persons owning extensive cattle farms, -and even holding important commissions in the army, who cannot read or -write. During the good old times of the Capuchin Missions, the youth of -the villages under their control received at their hands a scanty -education, principally in the primary notions of the catechism; but with -the destruction of those beneficent establishments, during the -protracted struggle between natives and Spaniards, they were replunged -into utter ignorance, and most of their places of worship have long -since gone to decay. They have retained, nevertheless, enough of the -extravagant notions of that school to establish a creed singularly at -variance with the teachings of the Gospel, and founded principally on a -belief in saints and amulets. The latter consist in little trinkets -wrought in gold or silver; or written orisons carefully preserved in -leathern bags and worn suspended from their rosaries around their necks. -Most of these orisons are the more extravagant from the fact they have -no meaning whatever; yet this very obscurity seems to attach greater -value to them, their principal charm consisting, as they say, in their -mysterious import. - -Great faith is also placed in certain prayers which are supposed to have -the power of driving away the Devil, curing diseases and averting all -kinds of evil. - -As regards their Creator, they only have some vague ideas; they believe, -for instance, in one God; _mais voila tout_. They seem to entertain -greater fear of Beelzebub and Death personified, both of whom they -imagine to possess undisputed sway over His creatures. The first they -fancy to be fashioned with horns, hoofs, and claws like some of their -wild beasts. Their ideas of death are no less extravagant. A respectable -old gentleman of my acquaintance who once found himself very low with -fever, thus related his experience respecting this fearful vision. -“Why!” said he to a circle of friends who came to congratulate him on -his recovery, “I had always supposed that Death was actually a horrid -skeleton skulking about the world in search of victims, and carrying in -his hand a fearful hook with which he angled for us as we do for fish. -No such thing, my friends, I assure you; Death, after all, is nothing -more than lack of breath;” accompanying the assertion with a gentle -pressure of his nose with his fingers and a hearty laugh. - -As a natural consequence, the Llaneros, in spite of their bravery and -_sang froid_ in other respects, entertain great fear of _espantos_ or -ghosts and apparitions. One of the most popular hallucinations of this -kind is _la bola de fuego_, or “light of Aguirre the Tyrant,” as the -natives usually style it--a sort of _ignis fatuus_, arising from the -decomposition of organic substances at the bottom of certain marshes. -Superstitious imaginations, unacquainted with this phenomenon, readily -transform these gaseous exhalations into the soul of the famous Lope de -Aguirre wandering about the savannas. This adventurous individual had -the satisfaction, while he lived, of discovering the great river Amazon. -Being of a restless and bloody disposition, like all the heroes of that -epoch, he started in search of El Dorado with a powerful expedition from -Peru, which resulted in the discovery of the Father of Waters. He -stained his laurels, however, with the blood of his own daughter, as -well as with that of his companions, for which unpardonable atrocities -it is believed his accursed soul was left to wander over those countries -which he sullied with his crimes.[22] Now it appears before the -terrified traveller in the form of a blazing ball of fire; a minute -after it will be seen one or two miles off. If sufficiently near, the -spectator cannot fail to observe the entrails of the wicked wanderer -enveloped in the flames of this extraordinary apparition. Such is the -power of affrighted imaginations which have converted one of the -commonest phenomena of chemical action into the wildest speculation of -besotted fanaticism. - -With regard to miracles and the interposition of the saints, the names -of some of which are constantly in their mouths, the Llaneros also have -many curious notions. For every emergency of their lives there is a -special patron saint; San Pablo, like good old St. Patrick, is supposed -to have entire sway over snakes and other vermin; San Antonio, the power -of restoring stolen goods to their rightful owners; while San somebody -else that of befriending the highway robber and assassin from the -punishment of justice and violent death. As an illustration of this -fact, I will relate here an incident which I witnessed during one of -those endemic revolutions so typical of the Spanish American republics, -and which never fail to foster lawless bands of desperadoes who, under -the cover of political reforms, commit all sorts of depredations upon -the helpless inhabitants. - - -JOSE URBANO, THE GUERILLA-CHIEF. - -_A digression for the sake of variety._ - -Shortly after our return from the Apure, a revolution broke out among -the colored population; a class which until then had been the most -peaceful and submissive, but since perverted to such a degree as to -require all the energies and resources of the white race to save itself -from utter ruin and degradation. - -An ambitious demagogue, editor of a newspaper in the capital, had been -seized with the mania, so prevalent in South America, of becoming -President (_pro tem._) of the Republic. To this end, he spared no means -in recommending himself to the public, through the columns of his paper, -heaping at the same time all kinds of slander and abuse upon those who -stood in his way. Finding, however, little coöperation from the better -class of the community, he experienced no scruple in courting the favor -of the colored population, who, he readily persuaded, “had a perfect -right to share in the gains and property of their aristocratic masters.” -The Government was powerless in arresting the spirit of revolt which was -daily being infused among the masses, as the Constitution allowed -perfect freedom of the press, and the good citizens did not care to take -the matter into their own hands. The consequence was, a fearful outbreak -among the lower classes, backed by all the _tramposos_ or broken-down -speculators of the country, proclaiming community of property, and the -ci-devant editor (who, by the way, had not a _sous_ to stake in it) -candidate for the next Presidency of the Republic. The revolt soon -spread to the Llaneros, by far the most to be feared in the matter of -hard blows; and although it was quelled in time through the efforts of -General Paez, it sowed the seeds of discontent which have since brought -forth to the country an abundant crop of revenge, violence, and rapine. -It was during that campaign the incident I am about to relate occurred -in the savannas of San Pablo. - -We had just encamped for the night on the beautiful plain of Morrocoyes, -not far from our place, when a messenger arrived to apprise the General -that the famous José Urbano, leader of a band of robbers who had -committed several wanton murders in that neighborhood, had crossed over -to San Pablo under cover of night. The General immediately despatched a -dozen of his men after the banditti, with positive orders to follow up -the _rastro_ or trail to the world’s end if necessary, and not return to -his presence without the body of the leader, _muerto ó vivo_, dead or -alive. To any other set of men less accustomed to the wild pursuits of -the Llanos, this would have appeared an impossibility in a country like -San Pablo, traversed in all directions by numerous cross-ways made by -the cattle; but the instinct of those men in tracking runaways as well -as stray animals, is truly wonderful. Although the plain was covered -with the footprints of twenty thousand animals roaming wild over the -savannas, they followed close on the heels of the banditti, until they -fell in, unfortunately, with another trail left by some _vaqueros_. The -night was very dark, and they easily mistook this for that of the enemy. -As a matter of course it led them to a ranch where the unlucky -_vaqueros_ were amusing themselves at the game of monte. Without -stopping to ascertain who the gamblers were, the troop charged in the -midst of them, killing two or three innocent fellows, and dispersing the -rest like a herd of wild sheep. The aggressors did not discover their -mistake until one of the fugitives, who happened to be acquainted with -the party, recognized the voice of the commander, and shouted to him to -stop the carnage. - -After this unfortunate encounter, it may be easy to conceive that the -troopers were not slow in retracing their steps in search of the cause -of their mistake; this time, however, with more prudence, carefully -examining every trail until they found the right one. It led them to -another ranch where Urbano was spending the evening in the society of -one of his numerous sweethearts. Here they all dismounted very quietly, -and leaving the horses in charge of two companions, they rushed into the -ranch with a wild shout and lance in hand. The attack was so sudden, -that most of the banditti were either killed or dispersed before they -had time to seize their arms. Only their gallant leader stood at bay -against tremendous odds, defending himself bravely for a long time with -the assistance of his equally courageous sweetheart, who kept all the -while urging him on like a tigress. - -Overpowered at last by a superior force, and faint with the loss of -blood from numerous wounds, the bandit fell at the feet of his sable -Amazon. When raised, an amulet was found between his teeth so firmly -held, that it required the united efforts of two men to remove it. On -being opened, it was found to contain a written orison, shrouded in such -mysterious language as would have defied the skill of a magician to -decipher. This, I was informed, was the famous _Oracion del Justo Juez_, -a singular misnomer for a talisman intended to befriend these _gente non -sancta_ in their marauding expeditions. - -It was a lucky thing for the assailants that Urbano received at the -outset a severe cut on his right arm, causing an immediate flow of blood -which filled the pan of his _trabuco_, otherwise the affair would have -terminated very differently. The ignition of the powder was thus -prevented just as he was in the act of discharging the contents of that -engine of destruction amidst the group. - -The body of the culprit was now tied on the back of a horse and conveyed -to the presence of the General, as an atonement for the unfortunate -mistake which had deprived him of the services of two or three valuable -hands. - -The news of this adventure spread as if by magic over the surrounding -country and brought together great numbers of _curiosos_, among them, no -doubt, many of Urbano’s adherents, who might have discredited the -statement. The General improved the opportunity to address them an -impressive homily, ordering at the same time the mutilated body of the -renowned bandit to be exposed on the public road for twenty-four hours, -as a warning to others with similar proclivities. - -The death of this man, considered invulnerable by the superstitious -children of the Llanos, produced a more powerful impression upon them -than if a great battle had been fought and won. Next day, hundreds of -_facciosos_, availing themselves of a general amnesty granted by the -Commander-in-Chief to repentant revolutionists, began to arrive from -various quarters and gave in their submission. - -Thus ended for the time being one of the most dangerous outbreaks that -had ever occurred in the country, from the nature of the principles -involved. As to the originator, he was subsequently eclipsed by a bolder -political aspirant, the ever-memorable José T. Monagas. This worthy, of -whom more especial mention will be made hereafter, and who, in an evil -hour for his country, was called to fill the chair of State, profiting -by the condition of anarchy in which the other had plunged the nation, -afterwards shot down the Representatives of the people in Congress -assembled, and proclaimed himself absolute ruler, thus leaving the other -ambitious pretender to exclaim with the poet: - - “Hos ego versiculos feci, tulit alter honores.” - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SCENES AT THE FISHERY. - - -Four days we remained at San Pablo making arrangements for the -contemplated expedition to the Apure; but the horses being quartered at -considerable distance, we removed to La Yegüera, a small farm within the -estate exclusively devoted to the breeding of those animals. Great -numbers of mules were also raised there, which made the equine stock -amount to nearly three thousand animals of all ages. There, untrammelled -by barriers of any kind, they roamed at will over those beautiful -meadows in a semi-wild state; their only keeper was a half-breed, who -with his family occupied the Ranch, which on that occasion was to -shelter us also. This Ranch being too small, however, for the -accommodation of the whole party, most of them bivouacked in a grove of -lofty Cesalpinias and Carob trees, from whose spreading branches they -slung their hammocks, the dense foliage forming a sufficient shelter -from the heavy dews of night and the heat of the sun by day. - -Our Leader, the Doctor, and myself, were domiciled at the Ranch. Having -the full range of the neighboring groves during the day, we had then no -occasion to use our single apartment, already partially occupied with -the culinary utensils and other wares of the family. But on retiring to -our hammocks at night, the scene presented was rather ludicrous. In the -same room allotted to us slept the keeper, his wife, and their numerous -progeny, with all the dogs and chickens of the household huddled -together in the most familiar manner. Notwithstanding, I will confess -that the arrangement was not altogether disagreeable to me, as in close -propinquity slept two of the prettiest damsels I had yet encountered in -that region, with eyes brilliant enough to render other light -superfluous. The only important hindrance to my nightly repose was the -occasional flapping of wings and the hourly crowing of our host’s -favorite gamecock, tied directly under my hammock, and who served for -clock and night-watchman to the establishment. - -Agapito, our host, had an easy time as overseer of this domain, his only -occupation being from time to time to scour the savannas in search of -young foals which might have been attacked by the _gusano_. This is the -larvæ of a species of fly deposited in the umbilical cord of the new -born, and which, if not promptly removed, will eat into the very vitals. -It is fortunately not difficult to destroy them by the use of powdered -_cebadilla_, the seed of a liliaceous plant (Veratrum cebadilla) -abounding in veratrine. For this purpose, the keeper is always provided -with a horn filled with the poisonous drug, and a wooden spatula. With -the latter he digs out the worms and fills the wound with the powder to -prevent a renewal of their attacks. - -Groves and meadows unequalled for their luxuriance and natural beauty -surrounded us on all sides, while numerous springs and rivulets, issuing -from the foot of the terrace-like _Mesas_, rushed down the declivity of -the plain, increasing the volume of the beautiful Guárico on whose banks -stood the primitive abode of our unsophisticated host. This river is -justly celebrated for the abundance and superiority of its fish; so, -without delay, providing myself with hook and line, I proceeded thither, -being anxious to procure specimens for my sketch-book, and also a -substitute for our daily fare of beef. But, strange to relate, each time -I dropped hook in the water, it was carried away in some mysterious -manner, without the least motion being imparted to the float. My tackle, -which I had brought from England, although arranged for fly-fishing, was -capable of bearing a fish of many pounds weight; but as I soon lost all -my stock in hand in the vain endeavor to secure my specimens, I gave up -in disgust and returned to the Ranch that the mystery might, if -possible, be explained. On seeing my slender lines, mine host with a -broad grin facetiously remarked that they were good to play at fishing -with, the only drawback to the amusement being that the _caribe_, a fish -not larger than a perch, would carry off all my playthings. Impossible, -said I; the lines are strong enough to lift you out of the water if -necessary; to this he quietly replied, directing my attention to a -mutilated finger of his right hand, “Do you see this? well, not long -ago I was washing my hands in the river after slaughtering a calf, when -a caribe darted at my finger and carried off a part before I was even -aware of his approach.” Here was a serious obstacle to my favorite -sport, and to the pleasure that Mr. Thomas and I had anticipated in -sketching the various kinds of fish peculiar to that region. -Fortunately, a short distance down the river was a fishing encampment -provided with all the necessary appliances for obtaining the fish in -large quantities. Of these we resolved to avail ourselves; but as -several others of our party were equally interested, our leader -despatched a messenger to the fishermen, inviting them to come up the -river with their nets, and fish in our presence. To this they readily -acceded, and soon after made their appearance paddling themselves over -the water in four large canoes laden, among other things, with their -_chinchorros_ or seines, which they at once proceeded to spread across -the stream, covering a deep _charco_ or pool known to contain abundance -of fish. Although the river at this season was very low, owing to the -usual summer drought, pools of considerable depth were left at -intervals, and in these the fish sought refuge in vast numbers from the -season’s heat and from the eager pursuit of the fishermen, of which the -latter sang, while spreading their seines, in the following lines: - - Guavina le dijo á Bagre - Vámonos al caramero, - Porque ya viene el verano - Y nos coge el chinchorrero. - -As the nets were dragged towards each other, the fish could be seen by -thousands moving within the space embraced by the seines. Indeed, so -numerous were they, that it soon became impossible to pull them in shore -without previously relieving them of a portion of their contents. -Accordingly, some of the men, armed with throw-nets, harpoons, and -_bicheros_--these last large hooks affixed to wooden handles--plunged -into the midst of the finny multitude, and commenced an onslaught on the -largest among them. Presently one of the men came out with a monstrous -fellow of the catfish tribe beautifully striped like a Bengal tiger, and -like him having a thick snout furnished with long barbs. This species is -called the _bagre rayado_ or striped catfish, and is much esteemed by -people of all classes as a substitute for beef during Lent. Large -quantities are salted and sent at that time to the capital and other -cities, where, under the name of _pescado llanero_, it forms one of the -delicacies of the season. Some of these fish attain an enormous size, -measuring five, six, and even seven feet in length, and are so fat that -a single one is a load for two men. - -[Illustration] - -In diving with the _bichero_, much caution was necessary on the part of -the men lest they should be hooked by their hasty companions in lieu of -the fish. A more important source of anxiety to the divers, was several -dangerous fish among the multitude struggling in the water, such as the -Ray-fish, whose tail is furnished with a sting three inches long, with -which it inflicts a very painful wound; Electric eels, whose touch alone -will paralyze in an instant the muscles of the strongest man; the -Payara, shaped somewhat like a sabre, and equally dangerous. The lower -jaw of this last is furnished with a formidable pair of fangs, not -unlike those of the rattlesnake; with these it inflicts as smooth a gash -as if cut with a razor; and finally, the _caribe_, whose ravenous and -bloodthirsty propensities have caused it to be likened to the cannibal -tribe of Indians, once the terror of those regions, but now scattered -over the towns and villages along the course of the Orinoco. Each time -the nets were hauled in shore, half a dozen or more of these little -pests were to be seen jumping in the crowd, their jaws wide open tearing -whatever came in their way, especially the meshes of the nets, which -they soon rendered useless. Their sharp triangular teeth, arranged in -the same manner as those of the shark, are so strong, that neither -copper, steel, nor twine can withstand them. The sight of any red -substance, blood especially, seems to rouse their sanguinary appetite; -and as they usually go in swarms, it is extremely dangerous for man or -beast to enter the water with even a scratch upon their bodies. Horses -wounded with the spur are particularly exposed to their attacks, and so -rapid is the work of destruction, that unless immediate assistance is -rendered, the fish soon penetrate the abdomen of the animal and -speedily reduce it to a skeleton; hence, doubtless, their appellation of -_mondonguero_--tripe-eater. There are other varieties of the _caribe_ in -the rivers of the Llanos, but none so bold and bloodthirsty as this -glutton of the waters. So abundant is this species in some rivers of the -Apure, that it is a common saying among Llaneros: “there is more -_caribe_ than water.” - -[Illustration] - -Every feature of this miniature cannibal denotes the ferocity and -sanguinary nature of its tastes. The piercing eye, surrounded by a -bloody-looking ring, is expressive of its cruel and bloodthirsty -disposition. Its under jaw, lined with a thick cartilaginous membrane -which adds greatly to its strength, protrudes considerably beyond the -upper, giving, as this formation of jaw does to all animals possessing -it, likewise an expression of ferocity. Large spots of a brilliant -orange hue cover a great portion of its body, especially the belly, -fins, and tail. Toward the back, it is of a bluish ash color, with a -slight tint of olive green, the intermediate spaces being of a pearly -white, while the gill-covers are tinged with red. The inhabitants being -often compelled to swim across streams infested with them, entertain -more fear of these little creatures than of that world-renowned monster, -the crocodile. This last, although a formidable antagonist in the water, -can be easily avoided and even conquered in single combat by daring men, -while the former, from their diminutive size and greater numbers, can do -more mischief in a short time than a legion of crocodiles. - -The other kinds of caribe, although larger in size, are less dangerous -than the preceding, and some even perfectly harmless. Among these, the -black caribe of the Apure and Orinoco rivers is considered dainty -eating. The _caribito_ is also a harmless pretty little fish, with back -of a fine green color, and belly white with occasional streaks of pink. - -In spite, however, of all these vicious creatures, and the great depth -of the water, the fishermen accomplished their work in a manner that -would have done credit to the fearless pearl-divers of the ocean, more -especially the swimmers, who are constantly in danger from some of the -fish while gliding through the water in their pursuit. Those in the -canoes were, of course, less liable to be attacked, although it often -happened that a _payara_, being peculiarly adapted for darting out of -the water, would clear the nets with a spring and fall in the midst of -the paddlers, causing a momentary confusion among them. My attention was -particularly attracted to the skill of the men in throwing their hand -nets, sometimes lying on their stomach on the surface of the water, -their hands encumbered with the nets; others would stand perfectly -erect, half their bodies out of water, and without any footing to serve -them as _point d’appui_. In the same manner, those whose business it was -to drive the fish towards the seines, managed their huge batons, and all -apparently without the least inconvenience. Suddenly their labors were -interrupted by a serious obstacle in the shape of a _caiman_ or -alligator struggling hard between the nets to regain his freedom. Here -was a sufficient test of the courage and ability of the fishers. If the -monster remained, he would not only endanger the nets, but also the -progress of the men through the water, they being liable at any moment -to come in contact with his powerful jaws. It was therefore decided to -get rid of the intruder at all hazards. To accomplish this, a lazo was -procured, and to the astonishment of all the _blancos_ present, a man -went down with it to the bottom in search of the monster, with the -avowed object of lazoing him under the water. After a few moments of, to -us, most anxious suspense, but which the hardy fishermen regarded as -child’s play, their companion rose to the surface panting for breath, -not yet having ascertained the precise position of his intended victim. -After inhaling sufficient air, the diver again disappeared, coming up in -due time with the glad tidings that the enemy was captured, in proof -whereof he handed us the other end of the lazo that we might drag him -out. This was no easy task, as these reptiles, by their peculiar -conformation, have immense power while under water, and it required the -united efforts of all on shore to land him. This accomplished, we were -perplexed in what manner to despatch him, as no steel instrument can -penetrate the thick cuirass of the _caiman_, except it be in the -armpits; but so violent were his struggles, that it was impossible to -strike him there. At last the Doctor, more sagacious than the rest of us -in anatomical operations, plunged a harpoon into the nape of the neck. -The effect was that of paralyzing at once the movements of the prisoner, -after which he was easily stabbed. - -The manner in which our gallant diver accomplished his daring feat was -thus explained by his companions; the _caiman_, like the domestic hog, -is said to delight in being scratched about the ribs,[23] and of this -the diver perhaps availed himself in order to place the noose around his -neck, being very careful to approach him from behind, as it is a -well-known fact that these reptiles, owing to the nature of their collar -vertebræ, cannot easily turn round. The alligator is not so dangerous as -its congener the crocodile of the Orinoco and its tributaries; few real -crocodiles ever ascend the Guarico as far as San Pablo. However, a case -had occurred here not long before, when a man disappeared under rather -mysterious circumstances, and there was good reason to surmise that his -loss was due to one of these gentry. It appears that the seines, being -entangled around a snag at the bottom of the river, a man was, as usual, -sent to remove the obstruction; considerable time elapsing without his -reappearance, his comrades, seriously alarmed, instituted a diligent -search, but no vestige of the unfortunate man was ever discovered. It -never occurred to his friends that he might have fallen a prey to a -crocodile, and the calamity was universally ascribed to the supernatural -influence of some evil genii of the deep. From that time, the spot has -borne the ominous name of the _Encantado_ or haunted pool. - -All obstructions to the progress of the nets were at length removed, and -a sufficient quantity of fish having been taken therefrom, we all -assisted in pulling them in, and a few moments afterwards had the -satisfaction of beholding the sand banks on which we were, strewn with -the proceeds of the two seines. - -It would be impossible to convey an adequate idea of the singular forms -and brilliant hues of most of these fish, all new to me. The _Cherna_, -in particular, attracted my attention from their abundance and peculiar -formation. Some attain a large size, weighing as much as a hundred -pounds, and their flesh is so delicate as to deserve the appellation of -river veal. The mouth is comparatively small, and set with a row of -teeth bearing a strong resemblance to those of the human species. - -The fishing having been solely for our amusement, and more game obtained -than we required for our consumption, some was distributed among the -people of the neighborhood who had collected to witness the sport, and -the remainder given to the fishermen, who received besides a handsome -compensation for their trouble in coming so far from their encampment. - -During the distribution of the fish, a singular incident took place -which illustrates at once the tenacity of life with which reptiles are -endowed, and the electrical powers of that most singular creature, the -gymnotus or electric eel. A boy had discovered one of these among the -heap of fish on the beach, and was dragging it along by means of a -_bichero_ to avoid the shocks, when the body of the eel came -accidentally in contact with the carcass of the _caiman_. This last, -which, after the rough treatment it had received from our medical -adviser, was supposed to be quite dead, much to the surprise of all, -opened his huge jaws and closed them with a loud crash. The Doctor, -especially, who, from his professional knowledge in surgical operations, -had pronounced it beyond recovery, was the loudest in his expressions of -astonishment at this unexpected turn. It was, however, merely a -convulsive movement, induced by contact with the eel, and similar to -that produced on the limbs of a frog by a galvanic current; for, -afterward, the reptile remained without further signs of returning life. -Science will, ere long, take advantage of the electric eel. - -[Illustration] - -I would here most willingly entertain my readers with an account of the -nature and habits of these “animal electrical machines,” had not the -great Humboldt already elucidated the subject in the most comprehensive -and brilliant manner. To his admirable works I will therefore refer the -reader for a full and graphic description of this, one of the most -curious of fish. It was in one of the numerous tributary creeks of this -river, that the distinguished traveller procured the gymnoti for his -experiments; perhaps from amongst the progenitors of the above -mentioned. The manner in which they were obtained differed somewhat, -however, from the one adopted by us on this occasion. Knowing how -difficult it was to catch these eels on account of their extreme agility -and powerful electrical discharges, the guides collected in the savannas -a drove of wild horses, which they forced into a pool of water abounding -in gymnoti. “The extraordinary noise caused by the horses’ hoofs makes -the fish issue from the mud and excites them to attack. The yellowish -and livid eels, resembling large aquatic serpents, swim on the surface -of the water and crowd under the bellies of the horses and mules. A -contest between animals of so different an organization presents a very -striking spectacle. The Indians, provided with harpoons and long slender -reeds, surround the pool closely, and some climb up the trees, the -branches of which extend horizontally over the surface of the water. By -their wild cries, and the length of their reeds, they prevent the horses -from running away and reaching the bank of the pool. The eels, stunned -by the noise, defend themselves by the repeated discharge of their -electric batteries. For a long interval they seem likely to prove -victorious. Several horses sink beneath the violence of the invisible -strokes which they receive from all sides in organs the most essential -to life; and stunned by the force and frequency of the shocks, they -disappear under water.” - -“I wish,” adds the traveller, “that a clever artist could have depicted -the most animated period of the attack; the group of Indians surrounding -the pond, the horses with their manes erect and eyeballs wild with pain -and fright, striving to escape from the electric storm which they had -roused, and driven back by the shouts and long whips of the excited -Indians; the livid yellow eels, like great water snakes, swimming near -the surface and pursuing their enemy; all these objects presented a most -picturesque and exciting ‘ensemble.’ In less than five minutes two -horses were killed; the eel, being more than five feet in length, glides -beneath the body of the horse and discharges the whole length of its -electric organ. It attacks, at the same time, the heart, the digestive -viscera, and the cœliac fold of the abdominal nerves. I thought the -scene would have a tragic termination, and expected to see most of the -quadrupeds killed; but the Indians assured me that the fishing would -soon be finished, and that only the first attack of the gymnoti was -really formidable. In fact, after the conflict had lasted a quarter of -an hour, the mules and horses appeared less alarmed; they no longer -erected their manes, and their eyes expressed less pain and terror. One -no longer saw them struck down in the water, and the eels, instead of -swimming to the attack, retreated from their assailants and approached -the shore. The Indians now began to use their missiles; and by means of -the long cord attached to the harpoon, jerked the fish out of the water -without receiving any shock so long as the cord was dry.” - -The electric eel, although much dreaded by man, is greatly esteemed by -gourmands. It is necessary, however, to deprive the fish of those parts -constituting the electrical apparatus, which are rather spongy and -unpalatable. So perfect a machine is this curious organ, that Faraday -succeeded--by insulation of the animal electricity and a most ingenious -apparatus devised by him--in obtaining a spark with which he ignited a -spoonful of gunpowder. But there are several varieties of the fish which -do not possess this peculiarity. - -Among the promiscuous assemblage of fish scattered on the sand beach, -ready to transfix the hand that might inadvertently touch them, were -many sting-rays. This species, like its prototype the famous Manta-fish -of the Caribbean Sea, is quite circular and flat, with a tail over a -foot in length, very thick at the base and tapering towards the end. -Near the middle on the upper part, it is armed with a long and -sharp-pointed bone or sting, finely serrated on two sides, which the -fish can raise or lay flat at will. When disturbed, the ray, by a quick -movement of the tail, directs its sting towards the object, which it -seldom fails to reach. The wound thus inflicted is so severe, that the -whole nervous system is convulsed, the person becoming rigid and -benumbed in a few moments. Even long after the violent effects of the -wound have subsided, the part affected retains a sluggish ulceration, -which has in many instances baffled the skill of the best surgeons. Some -creeks and lagoons of stagnant water are so infested with them, that it -is almost certain destruction to venture into them. They usually -frequent the shallow banks of muddy pools, where they may be seen at all -times watching for prey; and, as if conscious of their powers, scarcely -deign to move off when approached by man. They, also, are considered -good eating, on which account they frequently fall a prey to hungry boys -and vultures, who wage constant war upon them with spear and talon. - - * * * * * - -Mr. Thomas and I had plenty of occupation in sketching the various -specimens before us; but the speedy approach of night compelled us to -relinquish our agreeable pastime; thus many curious fish which we would -have liked to preserve, had to be consigned to the frying-pan instead of -to our portfolios. - -In the mean time our able cook, Mónico, and half a dozen of Llanero -assistants--all of whom are more or less accomplished in the art of -cooking in their own peculiar style--were busily engaged throughout the -afternoon preparing the spoils of the day for our supper. A fat calf was -also killed in honor of the occasion, and roasted before a blazing fire -under the trees. The Llaneros are quite skilled in roasting an ox or -calf, which they divide in sections according to the flavor of each -particular morceau. These they string upon long wooden spits, and keep -them turning before the fire until sufficiently cooked. The ribs of the -animal, taken out entire, usually form the most favorite morsel; but I -would recommend to future travellers in that country the _entreverado_, -made up of the animal’s entrails, such as the liver, heart, lungs, and -kidneys, cut into pieces of convenient size and spitted; then enveloped -in the fat mesenteric membrane of the animal, and cooked in its own -juices. - -In addition to this abundant supply of _carne asada_, we had fish in -every style, smoked, broiled, _en sancocho_, (bouilli,) &c., with plenty -of bread prepared by the wife and daughters of our equerry. Just as -every one had eaten, as he supposed, his fill, one of our assistants -made his appearance bending under the weight of a boiling caldron -containing a rich bouilli of cherna heads, and urged us to partake of -his humble fare. Although this was rather reversing the order of -courses, we were finally prevailed upon to _taste_ the soup he had -prepared with so much care for us; and no sooner was the rich broth -tasted by our epicurean party, than it was forthwith devoured with -unimpaired appetites; but my enjoyment of the broth was somewhat spoiled -by coming in contact with a row of omniverous-looking teeth, which so -reminded me of a human skull, that I was constrained to throw my portion -away, although I must confess that I never tasted soup superior to it. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -WILD HORSES. - - -The fishing over, the main object of our expedition to La Yegüera was -next attended to, namely, that of adding to our _madrina_ of -supernumerary horses from the abundant stock of this farm. An entire day -was passed in riding through its enchanting groves and meadows, -inspecting the numerous droves of mares, guarded by their proud -_padrotes_ or stallions. Each troop is under the control of one of -these, who not only prevent their mingling with other packs, but -endeavor also to appropriate all the other mares they can kidnap from -their neighbors. The conquest, however, is not obtained without a -determined resistance from their rightful lords, which occasions fierce -combats between the rivals. When any stranger approaches, the whole -troop boldly advances towards the object of their alarm, neighing, -snorting, and throwing their slim and beautiful forms into the most -graceful attitudes. When at the distance of a hundred paces, they all -halt, and five or six scouts are detached from the main body to -reconnoitre. These approach still nearer, and stretching their necks -and ears, seem, with wild glance and cautious movement, to inquire from -the stranger the object of this intrusion, while, in the mean time, the -stallion keeps the whole troop in readiness for retreat in case of -pursuit. When this last occurs, the scouts hastily incorporate -themselves with the main body, while the stallion orders the retreat as -skilfully as a good general might under similar circumstances, stopping -occasionally to watch the enemy’s movements, but never resuming the lead -until the troop is out of danger. When thus wildly coursing over the -prairies in packs of one or two hundred, headed by their respective -stallions, inspired, as it were, by the freedom of the plain, nothing -can surpass their magnificent appearance, nor the proud air of liberty -with which they snuff the passing breeze. We one day brought to the -Ranch a large drove, from which we selected those required for the -expedition. This occupied the men for a couple of days, as it was -discovered that most of the animals were in bad condition from burrs and -_garrapatas_, another destructive insect peculiar to those places, of -the size and shape of a bed-bug, and very distressing to animals. It -adheres with such tenacity to the skin of the poor brutes, that it -requires to be pulled by hand in order to detach it; if left -undisturbed, it will suck the blood until its body becomes distended to -many times the natural size. It attacks all kinds of animals, but more -especially horses: these last suffer in consequence, from malignant -sores about their ears, which soon wither and drop off. - -The horses were so wild that they had to be broken in before they could -be of any service. This operation--which might as well be termed -breaking down horses, as a great number are ruined by it--affords the -Llaneros a fine opportunity for testing their ability in coping with -this, the most spirited animal in the world. It is also undoubtedly one -of the most difficult performances on cattle-farms, requiring strong -nerve and great skill on the part of the rider to withstand the kicks -and plunges of the animal and retain his seat. The method practised in -the Llanos differs but little from that of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, -so ably described by Sir Francis Head, Darwin, and other eminent -writers. I will quote some passages from the first of these authors -respecting this divertisement among the Gauchos; their method I -specially commend to the numerous disciples of the renowned Rarey, who -has so astonished the Old World and the New with his wonderful skill in -horse-taming. - -“The corral was quite full of horses, most of which were young ones, -about three and four years old. The capataz, mounted on a strong, steady -horse, rode into the corral, and threw his lazo over the neck of a young -horse, and dragged him to the gate. For some time he was very unwilling -to leave his comrades, but the moment he was forced out of the corral, -his first idea was to gallop away; however, the jerk of the lazo checked -him in a most effectual manner. The peons now ran after him on foot, and -threw the lazo over his four legs, just above the fetlocks, and -twitching it, they pulled his legs from under him so suddenly, that I -really thought the fall he got had killed him. In an instant a Gaucho -was seated upon his head, and with his long knife, in a few seconds he -cut off the whole of the horse’s mane, while another cut the hair from -the end of his tail. This they told me is a mark that the horse has been -once mounted. They then put a piece of hide into his mouth to serve as a -bit, and a strong hide-halter on his head. The Gaucho who was to mount, -arranged his spurs, which were unusually long and sharp, and while two -men held the animal by his ears, he put on the saddle, which he girthed -extremely tight; he then caught hold of the horse’s ear and in an -instant vaulted into the saddle; upon which the man who was holding the -horse by the halter, threw the end of it to the rider, and from that -moment no one seemed to take any further notice of him. The horse -instantly began to jump in a manner which made it very difficult for the -rider to keep his seat, and quite different from the kick or plunge of -an English horse; however, the Gaucho’s spur soon set him going, and off -he galloped, doing every thing in his power to throw his rider. Another -horse was immediately brought from the corral, and so quick was the -operation, that twelve Gauchos were mounted in a space which, I think, -hardly exceeded an hour.” - -“It was singular to see the different manner in which the different -horses behaved. Some would actually scream while the Gauchos were -girthing the saddle upon their backs; some would instantly lie down and -roll over it; while some would stand without being held, their legs -stiff and in unnatural directions, their necks half bent towards their -tails, and looking so vicious and sulky, that I could not help thinking -I could not have mounted one of them for any reward that could be -offered me; and they were invariably the most difficult to subdue.” - -By repeating this treatment a number of times, and a sound thrashing -with the _chaparro_ whenever they prove refractory, the riders finally -succeed in conquering the indomitable spirit of their steeds, although -they long retain a vicious propensity to occasionally practise their old -tricks, either by throwing themselves backwards upon their riders, or -suddenly plunging headlong at a furious rate. Another dangerous habit is -that of whirling rapidly, when least expected, in an opposite direction -to the one intended by the rider, who, unless very expert, is unseated -and liable to have his neck broken. But, when these horses are at length -thoroughly broken in, there are few in the world capable of performing -their duty so well as those trained in the Llanos of Venezuela. - -My allusion on a former page to the renowned Rarey, recalls to my memory -the name of Santos Nieves, a famous picador of San Pablo, whose -ingenious mode of entrapping horses appears to have been formed on the -same principle as that which has characterized Mr. Rarey’s method. - -Instead of dashing after the droves, with lazo in hand, and wild shouts, -as is usual when the capture of one or more horses is intended, Santos -Nieves made use of every precaution to avoid giving these shy creatures -the least alarm; and so successfully were all his expeditions executed, -that he achieved for himself the tremendous reputation of being a -horse-witch. His plan was, however, the simplest possible. If the object -was to capture only a single animal--which feat is peculiarly difficult -to accomplish in woody places especially--he made preparations as if for -a long journey, previous to seeking the haunts of his intended captive. -Having sojourned in San Pablo for over half a century, he was thoroughly -acquainted with all their accustomed places of resort. The first impulse -of the animal on finding himself followed, was to scamper off; but the -patient picador, instead of hurrying in pursuit, quietly remained on the -same spot, watching and waiting the next move of the animal. Presently -the horse, seeing he was not pursued, would conclude to return and -reconnoitre the object of his alarm. Satisfied from the quiet attitude -of the man, that nothing need be feared from him, the horse resumed his -brousing near by. Again the man cautiously and slowly advances, until -perceived anew by the horse, who, as before, beats a rapid retreat. -Impelled by curiosity, he returned for the third time; again inspects -the picador, who remains motionless as before, upon seeing which, the -animal concludes he may safely continue his meal. These manœuvrings, -again and again repeated, usually occupied an entire day, towards the -close of which, if the horse were not very scary, the picador, with -cautious approach and gentle words, succeeded in placing the halter -around his neck. The extreme coyness, however, of most of these animals, -frequently compelled Santos Nieves to camp out for the night and resume -his pursuit, not only the following morning, but, if necessary, for -three or more consecutive days, at the end of which he always returned -in triumph with his captive to the farm. - -The relative value of these horses depends principally on their form, -color, and gait. The Llaneros are quite skilful in teaching them a -variety of paces and evolutions, which are as essential to their -hazardous occupations, as is the helm to the mariner. For war purposes, -they are especially invaluable, as was practically demonstrated in the -long struggle with the Spaniards, who not being equally expert in the -management of their steeds, were, in consequence, often at the mercy of -their antagonists. A good charger must be endowed with an easy mouth, -good wind, and quick movement to either side, so that when pursued by an -enemy, he can be made to whirl suddenly to the attack if necessary. The -same rule applies to those used in chasing wild animals, especially -bulls, which, when hotly pursued, often face about and charge their -assailants. - -It is equally indispensable in warm climates, that a horse should -possess an easy gait for travelling. In this respect, they are trained -to the particular fancy or requirements of the rider. Some prefer a -gentle trot on a long journey, as being the least fatiguing to the -horse; but, for city riding, or short journeys, an amble, rack, or -_pasitrote_--something between both--is usually adopted. The test of a -good pacing horse consists in “the rider being able to carry a glass of -water in his hand without spilling,” while that of a first-rate charger -is to stop, when at the height of his speed, on the slightest pull of -the bridle. - -Great regard is also paid to the color of horses; piebald, cream, and -the various shades of white, are usually preferred. But, where great -endurance and strength are requisite, connoisseurs generally select -those of a darker color. Their price in the country is greatly enhanced -of late in consequence of a devastating disease, which has been raging -among them for several years past. Horses were so plentiful in the -Llanos at one time, that a large export trade in their hides was carried -on with foreign countries. A good horse, which then only brought five -dollars, now costs from eighty to one hundred, and even more, according -to the fancy of the parties interested.--Great numbers of the -inhabitants were also carried away by the same scourge, which swept over -the land like the cholera, not even sparing the fish in the rivers. - -This frightful epidemic, which the Llaneros have appropriately styled -_Peste_, or plague, is supposed to have originated in the great primeval -forest of San Camilo, at the head waters of the Apure, from -decomposition of the vegetable detritus accumulated there during -centuries. From thence, travelling eastward along the course of the -river, the epidemic continued its ravages among the inhabitants of the -towns and villages situated on the right bank, attacking first one place -and then another, until the whole province scarcely escaped -depopulation. Even when the mortality abated, the country, which until -then had possessed a most healthful climate, never recovered its former -salubrity; fevers of a more or less dangerous character prevail from -that time, especially towards the end of the rainy season, while the -raising of horses has been entirely abandoned in consequence. - -The first symptoms of the epidemic appeared among the crocodiles, whose -hideous carcasses might then be seen floating down the stream in such -prodigious numbers, that both the waters and air of that fine region -were tainted with their effluvium. It was observed that they were first -seized with a violent fit of coughing, followed by a black vomit which -compelled them to quit their watery home, and finally find a grave -amongst the thickets on the river banks. The disease next attacked the -fish and other inhabitants of the water, with equal violence, until it -was feared the streams would be depopulated. The fearful mortality among -them can be better estimated from the fact that, for more than a month, -the rippling waves of that noble river, the Apure, were constantly -washing down masses of putrefaction, its placid surface being by them -actually hidden from view for several weeks. - -The next victims were the pachidermata of the swamps, and it was a -pitiable sight to see the sluggish _chigüires_ (capyvaras) and the -grizzly wild-boars dragging their paralyzed hind-quarters after them; -hence the name of _derrengadera_, applied to this disease. - -Not even monkeys in their aërial retreats, escaped the contagion, and -their melancholy cries resounded day and night through the woods like -wailings of the eternally lost. - -It is a singular fact, that while the scourge did not spare any of the -countless droves of horses roaming the savannas of the Apure, and -adjacent plains, donkeys and horned cattle were seldom, if ever, -attacked, so that, by their aid, the owners of cattle-farms were enabled -to prevent the entire dispersion of their herds. - -A curious incident related in connection with this public calamity, is -very current in the Llanos, respecting the origin of the disease among -horses. Eugenio Torralva, a man of uncommon industry, although of humble -extraction, had accumulated quite a handsome fortune by the raising of -cattle, on the borders of La Portuguesa; but his chief wealth consisted -in horses, on which he greatly prided himself--so much so that, on one -occasion, while a distinguished personage was passing through his -estate, Torralva directed his attention to the numerous droves grazing -in the plains; then turning to his guest, who appeared equally delighted -with the sight, said to him, “Think you, General, that I shall ever be -in want of horses? _Ni que Dios quiera!_ (Not even if God Almighty -wished it!)” he blasphemously added. Two years later, the witness to -this impious boast was again on his way to the Llanos: near San Juan he -met an old man, apparently in a very destitute condition, riding a -donkey. Not knowing who the wayfarer was, he bowed, as is customary, and -rode on without taking further notice of the old man or his uncouth -equipment; whereupon the stranger, waving his hand to him, cried, “Why, -General, have you already forgotten your friend Torralva?” He that -“giveth and taketh away” had deprived him of every horse, and the once -wealthy farmer was now compelled to travel on an ass. It is asserted by -the Llaneros that soon after he uttered the above-mentioned blasphemy, -the _Peste_ broke out among his immense stock, from whence they say the -disease spread to other farms, until the contagion became general. - -It is not a little singular that although the horse was unknown to the -aborigines of America, at the time of its conquest, the researches of -Darwin and other eminent geologists have shown them to have existed in -vast numbers on that continent contemporaneously with the Mastodon, -Megatherium, Mylodon, and other extinct animals. “Certainly, it is a -marvellous fact, in the history of mammalia,” observes that assiduous -explorer, “that in South America a native horse should have lived and -disappeared, to be succeeded, in after ages, by the countless herds -descended from the few introduced by the Spanish colonists!” - -In general these animals are of middling size, and, like their -progenitor, the Andalusian horse, endowed with a fiery spirit, (if not -checked by ill-treatment or abuse,) and surprising endurance, especially -during the exciting chase of wild cattle, when they are kept in constant -motion for many consecutive days. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -ACROSS THE PAMPAS. - - -Early in the morning of the fifth day, we left the Ranch at La Yegüera -to journey southward, followed by our long train of baggage mules and -relay horses, our good-natured host and keeper, Agapito, escorting us -for some distance in the double capacity of guide and entertainer. -Without his assistance it would have been difficult for us to proceed on -our journey, which lay across a rolling prairie, covered in some places -by magnificent groves of tall timber trees and a vast multitude of -slender, towering palms, which, by the glimmering light of the stars, -appeared like a mighty fleet of ships guarding the entrance to some -giant harbor. Although the morning was dark, and there was properly -speaking no road, but only a beaten track branching off in all -directions, our guide, who knew every inch of the ground, led us on -without once turning to the right or left, merrily chanting some of the -lively ballads of the Llanos. Occasionally he was joined by other bards -equally distinguished for their powers of voice and versification, thus -producing very animated choruses of a character peculiarly wild. - -As the sun rose in the horizon, we came upon another extensive plateau, -the Mesa del Rastro, stretching for several miles, unbroken by a single -tree or shrub, but alive with numberless herds of cattle roaming in all -directions, while flocks of birds of every plumage, all new to me, flew -affrighted at our approach, filling the air with their wild, peculiar -cries. Among these, the Taro-taro, a large bird of the Ibis tribe, which -derives its name from its bell-like notes, and the Carretero or carter, -a beautiful species of goose with variegated plumage and crimson bill, -particularly attracted my attention. The latter is named from the -rumbling noise it makes when on the wing, similar in sound to the -rumbling of cartwheels on hard ground. - -Continuing our march over this seemingly interminable plain, we at -length descried in the horizon the village of El Rastro, where we -purposed breakfasting and spending the hottest part of the day. We were -cordially received and entertained at the house of Señor Llovera, a -wealthy neighbor of ours, whose lands extended from the southern -boundary of San Pablo to this village. - -El Rastro is noted for the beauty and fresh complexion of the women, in -spite of an ardent climate; and the males for their singular propensity -to abstract the hair from the manes and tails of horses stopping at -their village. This they often practise under the very noses of the -unfortunate owners, for the purpose of converting it into halters for -their own steeds. Thus many a fine animal, which is supposed to be -securely quartered for the night, is found next morning so shamefully -disfigured that he can scarcely be recognized by his owner, who swears -by all the saints in the calendar to take summary vengeance on the first -_rastrero_[24] who may chance to cross his path. Fortunately we had no -cause of complaint, as our droves were constantly under the -_surveillance_ of a dozen or more vigilant keepers, perfectly _au fait_ -to the peculiar taste of that community. - -The beautiful complexion of the women is the more extraordinary from the -fact that this village, which stands on the southern edge of the -plateau, is entirely exposed to the glare of a tropical sun, and the hot -breezes of the east. I nowhere met during my journey, such rosy cheeks -and sparkling eyes as in this miserable hamlet. I could almost fancy -them the fairies of the wilderness, bewitching the unsuspecting -traveller, while their perfidious helpmates practise their rascally -tricks. - -These high terraces possess the advantage of being free from those -noxious exhalations which render the plains below so unhealthy at -certain seasons. Owing to the nature of the soil, mostly composed of a -loose conglomerate or shingle, no permanent deposits of stagnant water -are formed, endangering the health of the inhabitants, who are often -blessed with a “green old age” and the possession of unimpaired mental -and bodily faculties. Many are the instances where men attaining -seventy and eighty years are still able to take part in the hardy -ventures of the country along with their more youthful companions. Among -our own party we had several individuals of this class who, after -experiencing all the vicissitudes of a destructive war, had seen many a -hot summer roll by, and camped out amidst the drenching showers of the -rainy season, without any material change in their physique. Of these -were Santos Nieves, the horse tamer, whose only food consisted of jerked -beef, cheese, and _papelon_, upon which he had thrived admirably up to -the age of seventy; Crisóstomo, the negro major domo of San Pablo, who -had lost all recollection of his earlier days; Conrado, the horse -driver, whose age and experience in conducting our refractory _madrinas_ -had entitled him to the revered appelation of _taita_ or father. But the -most extraordinary instance of longevity which has come to my ears, is -in the Monagas family, also hailing from those regions, the age and -number of whose members seriously alarmed the republic at one time; for -the multitude of their rapacious demands appeared endless. The patriarch -of the family is said to have attained the moderate age of one hundred -and twenty years, yet was able to scour the savannas on horseback after -the cattle up to the time of his death. The memorable José Tadeo, the -late Dictator and tyrant of the republic, is yet in his prime at the age -of seventy-nine, while his brothers Gregorio and José Francisco, whose -vandalic career of plunder and assassination was--happily for the -country that gave them birth--cut off by a late revolution, did not -show the least signs of unabated vigor at the time of their death, -although one of them was considerably older than Tadeo. And last, though -not least, the renowned zambo general, Sotillo, the pet bull-dog of the -family, to which, however, he bears no other relationship than that -existing among rogues of the same stamp: although then in his eightieth -year, he was able to carry on a successful partisan warfare against the -existing government. Without a roof to shelter him, and no other -equipment of war than the lance and horse, this savage chieftain, for -such he is by birth and education, has set at defiance all the forces -sent in his pursuit, and nearly brought the country to the verge of -barbarism in his strivings to uphold the iniquitous claims of this -rapacious family. Fierce in looks and menacing in tone, with a head more -like a polar bear than a South American savage, he has become for a long -time the terror of the eastern provinces, which are in constant dread of -his sudden attacks--now cutting off small detachments of troops and -defenceless individuals, now retreating to his fastness amidst the arid -plains of the Alto Llano at the approach of a superior force. He has -even succeeded in defeating such on two or three occasions by his -cunning manœuvring and the rapidity of his movements. During half a -century, his favorite occupation has been hunting wild cattle and waging -a guerilla warfare against society, which too often has been compelled -to yield to the savage demands of this Bedouin of the Llanos. - - * * * * * - -Having partaken of a substantial breakfast, we bade adieu to our kind -host, and again betook ourselves to our long and weary journey across -the Pampas. Descending to the plain, stretching for a thousand miles to -the foot of the Bolivian Andes, we at once entered into an entirely -different country, showing unmistakable proofs of a diluvial origin. The -soil, mostly a mixture of clay and sand, no longer offended the feet of -our horses with those extensive beds of pebbles so trying to the poor -beasts. The vegetation, also, whenever favored by some accident of the -ground, showed a marked difference in character. The thorny mimosas, -which only thrive in a gravelly soil, here disappeared altogether, and -were replaced by dense groves of laurel and other balsamiferous trees. -The Copernicia palms, so extensively used for thatching and other -economic purposes, re-appeared at first in a few scattered clumps, and -afterwards in countless multitudes, literally closing the perspective -with their tall, slender trunks. This beautiful palm is known in the -country under various names, according to the uses made of its separate -parts. These are almost as numerous as the leaves of its dense, -symmetrical foliage. Thus, by the rural architect of the Llanos, it is -called _palma de cobija_--thatch palm. When its leaves are plaited and -neatly braided into hats that never wear out, it bears the name _palma -de sombrero_; and when the same are employed in driving off the myriads -of flies that infest the premises, or in fanning the heated dweller in -those regions, it is called _palma abanico_; and so on through a long -catalogue. - -A house thatched with this palm is not only impervious to the pouring -showers of the tropics, but against fire also, as it is nearly -incombustible: a hot coal dropped on it will only burn slowly where it -falls, without spreading or raising any flame. It is, moreover, very -durable and cool throughout the hottest months. All the fences and -corrals of the region where it abounds are made of the entire trunks of -this palm, while the cattle find a grateful shelter under its dense -shade. The slowness of its growth, observable even after centuries have -elapsed, is another curious peculiarity of this palm. When Europeans -first penetrated this wild region, they found extensive tracks covered -with low, apparently stunted plants, a few inches only above ground. -According to the recollection of the oldest inhabitants, of whom there -are many in the country, as I have already stated, these dwarfish palm -forests have not altered very perceptibly during their lives. It must -therefore have taken a full-grown plant thousands of years to attain the -height of twenty feet, which is their average size. - -Emerging from these extensive _palmares_--palm forests--we again found -ourselves in the midst of the boundless plain, assuming here as desolate -an aspect as if fire had passed over its entire surface, a dreary waste -of dried-up swamps, parched by the burning sun. Dismal tracts of these -_terroneros_, as they are termed, lay before us, having the appearance -of an extensive honey-comb, over which our jaded beasts stumbled at -every step, increasing our weariness to a state almost bordering on -desperation. The action of the rains washing the earth from around the -grass tufts, which are afterwards parched and hardened by the heat of -the sun, leaves the surface of the ground covered with numerous little -clumps of indurated clay, so closely packed that there was no footing -for the animals. - -Even the cattle seemed to have forsaken this inhospitable region, for, -with the exception of a few stragglers, there were no signs of -animation. Most of the cattle are transferred at this season to the -fertile shores of the Apure and Portuguesa; or they abandon of their own -accord these dreary wastes for well-known streams where they allay their -thirst. Ours was intense on this occasion, while the tantalizing mirage, -that singular atmospheric phenomenon so peculiar to arid deserts, -haunted us incessantly with its rippling, vapory phantom, a feeling in -which our poor beasts seemed to participate, as with outstretched necks -and ears they snuffed in vain the far horizon in search of the reviving -element. By an unpardonable oversight, our men had neglected to fill -their gourds with water, and now we felt the want of it. - -These scenes have been described so graphically by the eloquent pen of -Humboldt, in his “Tableaux de la Nature,” that I will not attempt it -further, but refer my reader to the following: - -“When under the vertical rays of the never-clouded sun, the carbonized -tufty covering falls into dust, the indurated soil cracks asunder as if -from the shock of an earthquake. If at such times two opposing currents -of air, whose conflicts produce a rotary motion, come in contact with -the soil, the plain assumes a strange and singular aspect. Like -conical-shaped clouds, the points of which descend to the earth, the -sand rises through the rarified air in the electrically charged centre -of the whirling current, resembling the loud waterspout dreaded by the -experienced mariner. The lowering sky sheds a dim, almost straw-colored -light on the desolate plain; the horizon draws suddenly near; the steppe -seems to contract, and with it the heart of the wanderer. The hot, dusty -particles which fill the air, increase its suffocating heat, and the -east wind blowing over the long-heated soil brings with it no -refreshment, but rather a still more burning glow. The pools, which the -yellow, fading branches of the fan palm had protected from evaporation, -now gradually disappear. As in the icy north the animals become torpid -with cold, so here, under the influence of the parching drought, the -crocodile and the boa become motionless and fall asleep, deeply buried -in the dry mud. Everywhere the death-threatening drought prevails, and -yet, by the play of the refracted rays of light producing the phenomenon -of the mirage, the thirsty traveller is everywhere pursued by the -illusive image of a cool, rippling, watery mirror. The distant palm -bush, apparently raised by the influence of the contact of unequally -heated, and therefore unequally dense strata of air, hovers above the -ground, from which it is separated by a narrow intervening margin.” - -Indeed, so perfect was this illusion of the mirage, that on one occasion -Mr. Thomas and myself were entirely deceived by the appearance of a -beautiful lake which we prepared to sketch. But what was our surprise -when, on climbing a tree to obtain a better view, the phantom -disappeared as if by magic! This occurs whenever the spectator places -himself above the line of the natural horizon. - -At length we reached a solitary pool of muddy water in the midst of the -savanna, which was hailed with joy by man and beast; but, on nearer -inspection, the thirsty travellers were seized with disgust and -disappointment on seeing several dead and dying animals embedded in the -mud. These quagmires form extensive barriers in some places, especially -in dried-up creeks where hundreds of animals perish every year, being -unable to extricate themselves from the adhesive quality of the clay. At -our approach two hideous alligators rushed into the pond, and thus the -scanty portion that had not been disturbed by the tramping of animals -was in a moment thickened like the rest. However, there being no other -alternative, we were compelled to follow the example of our sturdy -Llaneros, who proceeded without much consideration to dip their -calabashes into that species of mud soup; then covering the mouths of -the _totumas_ with our handkerchiefs, we sucked through them this -miserable substitute for water. - -About noon we descried a speck in the horizon, looking like a sail at -sea. Increasing in size as we neared it, it soon appeared to be a -solitary mound or promontory; by degrees it assumed more distinctness, -finally presenting to our view all the luxuriance of tropical -vegetation. This was the Mata de San Pedro, a sort of island grove of -splendid forest trees, which, like a veritable oasis, stood in the midst -of those desert plains, a relief to the parched and wayworn traveller. -_Mata_ is the name by which the natives designate these lovely gems of -the Pampas, no less cherished than are those of the famed African Desert -by the wearied caravan; like them, they receive appropriate names from -some peculiarity of feature or other trivial cause, as Mata Gorda, Mata -Redonda, &c. But whatever be the name, all hail with joy these verdant -bowers, a cool retreat to every species of animal in summer, and a safe -refuge during the season of floods, for, being somewhat higher than the -surrounding country, they are rarely overflowed by the periodical -inundations. - - * * * * * - -It was entirely dark on our arrival at the Mata, and we were then so -weary that there was little inclination evinced to make any preparations -for supper, and we were also greatly in need of water. Although the -earth was parched by the long drought, Providence has placed a few feet -below the surface an unlimited supply of the purest water. This can be -obtained at any time by merely digging for it with a wooden pole -sharpened at one end. In the present instance we were spared this -trouble, as some of our people, well acquainted with the place, knew -where one of these primitive wells could be found. Our first business, -therefore, was to seek for the _jagüey_ in spite of the deadly -rattlesnakes said to abound there. From this we obtained sufficient -water for ourselves and riding horses, the other animals being left to -shift for themselves, always under the close vigilance, however, of the -watchmen appointed for the night. These men had a hard task: apart from -the fatigue of keeping awake and on horseback all night, they were in -constant fear of a sudden stampede among the horses, which not -unfrequently occurs. To provide against a contretemps of the sort, those -in immediate use were secured nightly by straps attached to the feet, -which prevented their straying far from the camp. - -We rose very early, judging from the height of the _Lucero_ or morning -star--which in those solitudes takes the place of town clock--whose -brilliancy almost equals that of the full moon. I nowhere recollect -having seen this gorgeous luminary of morning shed such radiant streams -of light as in the ever-cloudless sky of the Llanos during the summer -months. In equal proportion all the other heavenly bodies seem there to -vie with each other in heightening the splendor of that glorious -firmament, cheering the heart of the wanderer who finds himself, like -the mariner on the high seas, encompassed only by the vault of heaven, -whose glowing lamps were then our unerring guide towards the south, -enabling us to dispense with compass or any landmarks by which to direct -our course. Towards evening, we deviated a little from it, hoping to -reach a cattle-farm, intending to pass the night there; but our horses -being almost exhausted from the roughness of the ground, compelled us to -stop by the banks of a treeless creek abounding in alligators; this we -knew by the strong odor of musk which pervaded the air. In spite of -their proximity, which made me start more than once in my dreams, we -slept soundly in our ponchos on the hard ground, for want of trees from -which to sling our hammocks. This lack of firewood compelled us also - -[Illustration: A PRAIRIE ON FIRE.] - -to go supperless that night and without breakfast next morning. After a -long search we finally succeeded in collecting a handful of drift wood -along the banks of the creek, enabling Mónico to make us a stimulating -cup of coffee in which to “drown our sorrows.” - -Midday brought us to the cattle-farm we were in quest of, when immediate -preparations were made for an ample meal, which should compensate us for -previous privations. The overseer informed us that not far from the -house was a herd of cattle bearing our brand. Thither we despatched two -men in search of the fattest among them. In a short time they returned -with a fine cow, which was speedily slaughtered and spitted before a -blazing fire kindled under three stupendous mimosa trees bearing flat, -kidney-shaped legumes or pods six inches in circumference. Our hunger -appeased, we spread our ponchos under the shade of these giants of the -vegetable world, and slept until noon, when we were again in our saddles -prosecuting the journey through a less monotonous landscape. The plain, -although still preserving the same rough character, was diversified with -groves of other leguminous trees, (Cañafistulos,) the pods of which were -nearly three feet in length, and contain a black pulp valuable as a -cathartic. - -Towards evening we were gratified by seeing, for the first time, that -splendid spectacle, a prairie on fire. The grass, parched with the -burning sun, is purposely fired by the natives to promote the growth of -the new crop, which last, owing to the heavy dews, starts long before -the rainy season sets in. The conflagration extended for more than -three miles, the strong evening breeze driving it onward in curling -fiery billows. Volumes of smoke loaded with burning particles of grass, -ascended in clouds, increasing the grandeur and beauty of the scene by -their various tints of red, pink, and purple, diffused throughout the -atmosphere. Aided by this illumination, we were enabled to discover a -solitary ranch, where we tarried the remainder of the night, although -there was nothing to be had there in the shape of edibles. Fortunately -one of our party had shot a number of wild ducks in a lagoon, and a -provident individual had saved some choice morsels of the cow. There was -some difficulty in procuring wood enough for a fire, but a couple of -rafters from the old ranch afforded the needful fuel, and thus we were -happily prevented passing a supperless, as well as comfortless night. - -Many hours before daybreak we were again up, saddling and loading our -animals, which, owing to the darkness, was always the most irksome part -of the journey. We were, however, most happy to bid adieu to the -solitary ranch with its myriads of bats, the only tenants we encountered -there. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -LA PORTUGUESA. - - -Again we were under way, and again our eyes encountered only the flat -monotonous plain on all sides sweeping to the horizon, varied only in -being more barren, rougher, and consequently more exhausting to our -horses than any of the preceding. Many of the riders dismounted, that -the poor brutes might be relieved as much as possible, and accomplished -the remainder of the journey on foot. This occasioned a burning thirst, -which the scant supply of water in our gourds was not sufficient to -allay; and it was not until noon had long passed, that our guides, -pointing to a blue ridge of forest in the distance, informed us it -marked the course of the river Portuguesa, our intended halting place, -and on the borders of which we purposed spending several days. The -cavalcade, inspirited by this view, pressed forward as rapidly as their -exhausted condition would permit, and fortunately reached the pass -before nightfall. - -This beautiful river has its rise in the mountains of Trujillo, and -connects the fertile province of Barinas with the sea, through the Apure -and Orinoco, being in fact one of the principal tributaries of the -former. Its commercial advantages, as may be imagined, are of great -importance to the interior of a country so distant from the ocean, and -whose principal products consist in the bulky yield of the plantations. -It is navigable during a great portion of the year, especially for steam -vessels, and I am happy to learn that the great civilizer of the -world--steam--has at length been introduced there through the -enterprising energy of some Yankee speculators. - -The banks of the river, being both high and precipitous, a passage to it -can only be accomplished at certain points, where the hand of man and -the tramp of animals have cut deep trenches, forming paths to the -water’s edge. On this occasion, we sought the pass of San Jaime, where a -ferryman is stationed with a canoe to take across any who desire it. -Horses, however, being excellent swimmers, are left to ferry themselves -over. Our first care on arriving of at the pass was to unload our beasts -of burden, and unsaddle our steeds for the purpose of allowing them to -cool before entering the water, a precaution which, if neglected, not -unfrequently proves fatal to both man and beast. This duty fulfilled, we -proceeded to hail the _Canoero_, whose ranch was perched upon the south -bank of the river. The knowledge that he would receive a “real” for -every man and beast that crossed, besides various perquisites from -passengers whom he supplied with meals during their sojourn at his -ranch, so expedited his motions, that in a few moments his frail barge -received its first load, each person taking his own chattels with him. A -boy of fifteen, naked and sunburnt, paddled the canoe, while the -ferryman steered it by means of his _canalete_. The utmost care was -necessary to prevent the overturn of the crazy skiff, which reeled at -every stroke of the paddle, threatening to pitch all its contents -overboard. As soon as we landed on the opposite shore, the boat returned -for a second load, and the trips were repeated until the whole party had -crossed. There now only remained the horses, who being extremely shy of -deep water, required to be forced to swim across, an operation demanding -considerable skill on the part of the drivers. The only way was to give -them an example; accordingly two expert swimmers, divesting themselves -of clothes, jumped upon the bare back of their horses and plunged -incontinently into the stream. Then, sliding off to one side, they -allowed the horses to swim without encumbrance, supporting themselves -with one hand upon the animal’s haunches, while with the other they -guided them by means of a halter. Meanwhile, those that remained on -shore set up a tremendous shouting and yelling, at the same time shaking -their ponchos violently with the intent to frighten all the rest of the -troop down the steep embankment, where, encouraged at the sight of the -two ahead, they all entered the stream and followed their leaders -without further difficulty. Several large crocodiles, who had watched -all these proceedings from the middle of the river, alarmed by the -confusion, disappeared from view, and then the heads only of the leaders -and their steeds rose, puffing and snorting, above water. In spite, -however, of all the uproar, one of these men was instantly attacked by -caribes, and very narrowly escaped serious injury from them. I was -standing at the time on the opposite side of the river, watching this -novel mode of ferrying, and observed that the man, abandoning his horse, -endeavored to reach the bank by long strides, occasionally lashing -himself with a coiled lazo he carried in his hand. It immediately -occurred to me that he might have been attacked by crocodiles, a belief -which was strengthened on seeing the poor fellow’s sides streaming blood -as he stepped upon the beach. My first apprehension was quickly -dispelled by his pointing to a circular wound on his shoulder, about the -size of a quarter dollar, and to others as severe on various parts of -his body, inflicted by caribes. Had the man been a less expert swimmer, -or the water less agitated, the accident would undoubtedly have proved -more serious; as it was, we were considerably alarmed for the fate of -the other man, who, however, happily escaped unhurt. - -The surprising boldness of these diminutive fish, naturally increased my -anxiety to examine more minutely into their peculiarities, than I had -yet the opportunity of doing. I therefore determined to procure fresh -specimens, if possible. On a former occasion I had lost most of my trout -hooks, but I still preserved some larger ones, mounted with copper wire, -to be used in the rivers of the Apure; these I supposed proof against -the teeth of any fish, and no sooner were we established in the ranch of -the ferryman, than, taking my lines I hastened to the river accompanied -by my English co-laborer, the artist. The hooks were baited with pieces -of fresh beef, and dropped with great precaution near the shore. -Scarcely did the bait touch the water, when it was seized by caribes. -Without allowing them time, as it seemed, to get the whole of it between -their jaws, we pulled in the lines, but, alas! minus hooks, as well as -bait. On examination, we discovered that one of the hooks had been cut -through, while the other was severed from the wire. Still, we -persevered, but invariably with the same unfortunate result. - -Greatly annoyed, I turned to question a Llanero, who stood near laughing -at what he considered my simplicity. Another tapped me gently on the -shoulder, and addressed me with “_Niño_, you might as well attempt to -catch a rattlesnake by the tail” (a favorite expression among them) “as -to think of hooking one of those chaps.” What is to be done, then? for I -must have at least a couple of these scoundrels, said I. “Who ever saw a -genteel young gentleman like yourself, with a taste for such disgusting -creatures?” he replied, imagining that I wanted them for eating. On my -explanation that my object was simply to sketch and preserve them in -spirits, they advised me to procure a piece of tough skin from the head -of an ox which was then being slaughtered, and to suspend it from a -strip of the same material. I immediately followed their instructions, -and shortly repaired again to the river. Seating myself on the stern of -the canoe, which was moored across the stream, I dropped my novel bait -into the water, and watched for the result with the utmost interest. In -a moment a shoal of caribes collected around the bait and commenced -attacking it voraciously. Finding the thick cartilage too tough even for -their sharp teeth, and unwilling to give it up, they continued gnawing -at it like so many little hyenas. When I imagined them to be fairly -“stuck” through the thick skin, I lifted the whole concern over the side -of the canoe, and had the satisfaction of seeing about a dozen of the -fish dancing at the bottom of my barge. Finding this novel style of -fishing rather easy and entertaining, I continued it until I was -suddenly apprised into whose company I had thrust myself by feeling the -heel of my left foot seized by one of the captives with such violence as -caused me to drop my bait, with the vicious creatures that were hanging -from it, into the river. My only thought now was how to contrive my -escape, having the whole length of the canoe to traverse, and its floor -paved with these ravenous little wretches. My first impulse was to -spring overboard; but a moment’s reflection convinced me that it would -be a jump from the “frying pan into the fire.” Placed thus, as it were, -between Scylla and Charybdis, I again appealed to the ingenuity of my -former advisers for deliverance. This they readily accomplished by a -very simple contrivance, consisting of a gunny bag, which they spread -over the gaping draught of fish. In a moment their sharp teeth were -again at work, this time among the tough fibres of the bag, to which -they clung with the tenacity of bull-dogs, thus enabling us to fish them -out again without difficulty. - -My biting experience of these little pests left me in no mood to spare -them, and I never missed an opportunity of provoking a bloody conflict -among them. With this view I made it my daily business to scatter pieces -of flesh in the river, which never failed in attracting great numbers to -the spot. These devoured the meat in a few moments, after which, being -themselves of a red hue, and mistaking each other for the meat, they -continued the feast by devouring one another, until few of them remained -alive. Thus I accomplished my revenge upon these cannibals of the finny -tribe. The pike and the caribe are, I believe, the only fish which -devour those of their own species when disabled. “As no one dares to -bathe where it is found,” remarks Humboldt in his travels, “it may be -considered as one of the greatest scourges of those climates, in which -the sting of the mosquitoes and the general irritation of the skin, -render the use of baths so necessary.” - -Fortunately for mankind, these fish are subject to a yearly mortality -during the heats of summer, when the water is deprived of a portion of -the air it holds in solution. Their carcasses may then be seen floating -on the water by thousands, while the beach is strewn with their bones, -especially their bristling jaws, which render walking barefoot on the -borders of lagoons extremely dangerous. - -To judge from the incessant turmoil in the river at all hours of the -night, besides evident proofs of their depredations during the day, I -concluded that the havoc they commit on the other denizens of the water -must be very great. Even the armor-clad crocodiles are not exempt from -their attacks, when wounded in their own quarrels, as they sometimes -are, during the season of their loves, for even crocodiles are subject -to jealousy, that other “green-eyed monster.”[25] - -The Waraun Indians, whom the first tribe of cannibals, the Caribs, -compelled years ago to seek a refuge among the flooded lands of the -great Delta of the Orinoco river, and who in consequence live in huts -raised on posts above the water, without even the allotted space of dry -ground to deposit their mortal remains, have adopted the curious custom -of preserving the bones of their deceased relations suspended from the -roof of their aerial dwellings; but having no skilful anatomists among -themselves to strip the body of the more perishable flesh, they avail -themselves of the voracious habits of this fish for so essential a -performance. For this purpose they tie the corpse with a strong rope, -and plunge it in the water, securing the other end of the rope to one of -the pillars upon which their dwellings rest: in less than twenty-four -hours the skeleton is hauled out of the water perfectly clean, for the -teeth of the caribe have stripped it of flesh, arteries, tendons, etc. -Now all that the mourners have to do is to separate the bones, which -they arrange with much care and nicety in baskets made for the purpose, -gaudily ornamented with beads of various colors; and so well have they -calculated beforehand the space the bones will occupy in the funereal -urn, that the skull, tightly adjusted against the sides of the basket at -top, comes to be the lid of it. - -During the annual inundation of the savannas, when quadrupeds perish by -thousands in the vernal deluge, the caribes have ample field for their -voracity; but living animals are not exempted, for they prey with equal -fierceness upon the young calves when wading through the marshes, and -upon the mothers, whose udders they so mutilate, that the young ones -frequently perish from lack of nourishment. The poor cattle lead about -this season a truly miserable life. Those that escape the teeth of the -caribe, the coil of the anaconda, that great water serpent, or the jaws -of the equally dreaded crocodile, are in continual danger of falling a -prey to the lion or the jaguar, while congregated upon the _bancos_ and -other places left dry amidst the rising waters. None, however, escape -the tormenting sting of myriad insects which, until the waters subside, -fill the air they breathe. Even at night, when all created beings should -rest in peace, enormous vampires, issuing from the gloomy recesses of -the forest, perch upon the backs of the sufferers and suck their life -blood, all the while lulling them with the flapping of their spurious -wings. In fact, it seems as if in these regions all the elements -conspired against these useful creatures; for, after these varied evils -have abated with the return of the dry season, the hand of man is also -continually against them in harassing hunts, or in firing the ripe -pastures which sweep their realms in devastating fury, driving them in -consternation from the fields of their enjoyment. - -The crocodiles of this river are noted for being the most savage and -daring in the Llanos. Although usually styled yellow caymans, to -distinguish them from the common alligator, which is of a darker hue, -they are in fact real crocodiles, with an acute snout, like those -inhabiting the Nile and other celebrated rivers of Africa. - - * * * * * - -While walking along the banks of the Portuguesa, one may see these huge -lizards collected in groups of half a dozen or more, basking in the -sunshine near the water, with their jaws wide open until their ghastly -palates are filled with flies or other creatures alighting within them. -We tried in vain shooting them with guns; the reptiles were so wary, -that the moment we took aim they rushed into the water. Being at a loss -how to procure a subject for my pencil, I sought the advice of an old -man, an angler by profession, who lived in one of the huts near the -river. He agreed to let me have his canoe with his son to paddle it, and -the requisite number of harpoons, providing I could obtain the -assistance of an Indian boy from the neighborhood, who was a capital -marksman with the bow and arrow. “What!” I exclaimed in astonishment, -“do we expect to kill one of these monsters with so slight a thing as an -arrow?” “No, Señorito,” he calmly answered; “but you must first know -where to find him under water before you can strike him with the -harpoon; the arrow of which I speak is the kind we use in catching -turtles.” These arrows are constructed so as to allow the head, affixed -to the shaft somewhat in the manner of a lance, to come off the moment -it strikes an object in the water. A slender cord, several feet in -length, connects it with the shaft, which last is made of a light, -buoyant reed; around this the cord is wound closely until it reaches the -point where the head is, then fastened securely. The shaft being -extremely light, floats on the surface of the water the moment it is set -free from the head by the struggles of the animal, thus acting as a -guide for its recovery. - -The old angler then proceeded to explain that the operation must be -conducted first by sending one of these arrows into the body of the -crocodile to mark his position under water; and then, if practicable, we -might plunge a harpoon into the only vulnerable spot we could hope to -reach, viz., the nape of the neck, after which the animal could be -easily dragged on shore by means of strong ropes attached to the -harpoon. - -Accordingly, I went in search of the Indian boy, whom I found under a -tree, seated like a toad on his haunches, skinning a porcupine he had -just killed. At my approach he raised his head and fixed on me his -unmeaning eyes. When spoken to, he only replied to all my questions with -the monosyllables, _si_, _no_. After a little coaxing, and the promise -of some fish hooks, he followed me to the canoe without uttering a word -more. We were not long in getting a chance to test the skill of my new -acquaintance. As we approached the river banks, a large crocodile hove -in sight, floating down the stream like a log of wood. Our position was -most favorable to send an arrow rattling through his scales, and my -young Nimrod lost no time in improving the opportunity. Stepping a few -paces in advance, and bending gracefully over the precipice, he let fly -at the reptile’s head his slender, yellow reed, _por elevacion_, viz., -shooting the arrow up into the air at an angle of forty-five, which -causes it to descend with great force upon the object, after describing -an arc of a circle in the manner of a bomb-shell. Although the distance -was fully three hundred paces, the arrow struck the mark with the -precision of a rifle ball. A violent plunge of the huge reptile was my -first intimation that the trial had been successful, and a moment after -I perceived the golden reed, now attached to him, skimming swiftly over -the surface of the water. We hastened for the canoe, and immediately -gave chase up the stream, as the crocodile had taken that direction. We -were rapidly gaining upon him, when, alarmed at the sound of the -paddles, he sunk in very deep water, as was indicated by the reed. This -circumstance rendered it impossible to employ our harpoon. We tried in -vain to start him; he stuck to the muddy bottom whence neither pulls nor -curses could move him. We hoped that in time he would come to the -surface to breathe, and then we might strike him with a harpoon; but in -this we were equally disappointed. After waiting for him two hours, we -gave him up, along with the arrow head sticking in his own. - -I made various other attempts to secure a specimen, but with no better -result, as the river was yet too high to sound for them. - -While in this place, I was told several incidents in relation to the -cunning and instinct of these saurians, one of which appeared to me most -remarkable in an animal of the reptile tribe. The ferryman here -possessed at one time a great many goats. One day he perceived that -several of them had disappeared, and not being able to account for it in -any other way, he at once laid the blame on the hated crocodiles, -although these creatures seldom carry their attacks beyond their own -element. His suspicions, he discovered in the end, were well founded, -having witnessed the destruction of one of his goats in a very singular -manner. It appeared that a crocodile had in some mysterious way -discovered that goats delight in jumping from place to place, but more -especially from rocks or mounds. Rocks, however, being rather scarce in -the country, their treacherous enemy undertook to gratify their taste -for this innocent pastime, and at the same time cater to his own. -Approaching the water’s edge to within a few feet from the bank, he -swelled out his back in such a manner as gave it the appearance of a -small island or promontory. The stupid goats perceiving this, varied -their gambols by jumping from their secure places on shore upon the -seeming island, which they, however, never reached, for the crocodile, -tossing up his head at the right instant, received them into his open -jaws, and swallowed them without difficulty. - -Crocodiles have a special penchant for dogs also, and never miss an -opportunity of gratifying their taste for the canine. In this, however, -they are often balked by the superior cunning of their intended -tit-bits. One day I observed a couple of tiger-hounds quietly enjoying a -cool bath in the river. Struck with their apparent _nonchalance_ when in -such a dangerous proximity, I found on inquiry that these animals never -approach the water, either to drink or to bathe, without previously -attracting the crocodiles by means of repeated howlings to some distant -spot. This instinct of the dog with regard to crocodiles seems to be -rather of antique date, for I find it recorded in the writings of both -ancient and modern travellers in different parts of the world. - -No person can venture near the water without danger from their attacks, -being so treacherous that they approach their intended victim near -enough to strike him with their powerful tails before he is even aware -of their proximity. The bubbling sound of a gourd being filled in the -water by some imprudent person, specially attracts them. To obviate this -danger, a calabash bowl with a long wooden handle is usually employed -for the purpose; yet, even this is not unfrequently snatched from the -hands of the water-carrier. If by accident a human being falls a prey to -this tyrant of the river, the reptile is then called _cebado_, which -appellation implies every thing that is bold, ferocious, and treacherous -in an animal of the species, as from that time they not only waylay -persons, but follow them in the canoes, in hopes of again securing this -dainty morsel. There are, however, men bold enough to meet the enemy -face to face in his own element. The man who makes up his mind to this -encounter is well aware that this must be a conflict to the death for -one of the antagonists. The ferryman related to us a feat of gallantry -worthy of a better cause, performed here by a Llanero with one of these -monsters. The man was on his way to San Jaime on a pressing errand. -Being in haste to get there the same day, he would not wait for the -canoe to be brought to him, but prepared to swim across, assisted by his -horse. He had already secured his saddle and clothes upon his head, as -is usual on similar occasions, when the ferryman cried out to him to -beware of a _caiman cebado_, then lurking near the pass, urging upon -him, at the same time, to wait for the canoe. Scorning this advice, the -Llanero replied with characteristic pride, “Let him come; I was never -yet afraid of man or beast.” Then laying aside a part of his ponderous -equipment, he placed his two-edged dagger between his teeth, and plunged -fearlessly into the river. He had not proceeded far, when the monster -rose and made quickly towards him. The ferryman crossed himself -devoutly, and muttered the holy invocation of _Jesus, Maria y José_! -fearing for the life, and, above all, for the toll of the imprudent -traveller. In the mean time, the swimmer continued gliding through the -water towards the approaching crocodile. Aware of the impossibility of -striking his adversary a mortal blow unless he could reach the armpit, -he awaited the moment when the reptile should attack him, to throw his -saddle at him. This he accomplished so successfully, that the crocodile, -doubtless imagining it to be some sort of good eating, jumped partly out -of the water to catch it. Instantly the Llanero plunged his dagger up to -the very hilt into the fatal spot. A hoarse grunt and a tremendous -splash showed that the blow was mortal, for the ferocious monster sunk -beneath the waves to rise no more. - -Proud of this achievement, and scorning the tardy assistance of the -ferryman, who offered to pick him up in his canoe, he waved his bloody -dagger in the air, exclaiming, as he did so: “Is there no other about -here?” and then turning, he swam leisurely back to take his horse -across. - -The _canoero_ who related this adventure then added: “So delighted was I -on that occasion, that I killed my fattest hen to treat the man to a -good _sancocho_, for the caiman had devoured all my goats.” - -But this is only one of the many exploits constantly being enacted in -these regions, by the bold race of men inhabiting them. - -[Illustration] - -There is still living at San Fernando, a town at the confluence of the -Apure and Portuguesa rivers, another individual equally bold in -attacking crocodiles, in which warfare he uses only a wooden mace or -club. He is possibly one of the greatest swimmers in that or any other -country, having repeatedly accomplished the run between San Fernando and -El Diamante--a plantation which he owns three miles below the -town--without once stopping on the way. Armed with his heavy club in one -hand, and a bottle of rum in the other, to keep himself in good spirits, -this modern Hercules will, for the fun of it, during a spree, provoke a -fight with a _caiman cebado_; and so effectual has been his warfare, -that he has actually succeeded in driving them away from the pass, -formerly so infested by them, that scarcely a year elapsed in which -numbers of persons were not carried off by them, helpless washerwomen -especially. - -I observed, also, at La Portuguesa, a great number of fresh-water -porpoises or _toninas_, as they are called there, swimming with rapidity -against the current, and bending their backs gracefully like their -congeners of the sea. Crocodiles appeared to avoid them, and would -invariably dive out of the way at their approach. It is probable that -from this circumstance arose the current belief that _toninas_ will -befriend persons when they chance to fall into the water, against the -attacks of crocodiles. It is, moreover, asserted that these cetacea will -rescue a man from drowning, pushing him on to the shore with their -snouts. In acknowledgment of this animal philanthropy, the hand of man -is there never raised against these inoffensive creatures; and so -conscious are they of this, that they seem rather to delight in his -neighborhood, sporting around the canoes which ascend the river, and -spouting jets of water and compressed air like miniature whales. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -THE APURE RIVER. - - -We tarried several days at La Portuguesa to afford our horses time to -recover from the fatigues of the previous rough journeys. We also -expected to incorporate there another drove, which having been kept -throughout the summer grazing in the ever-verdant meadows of this river, -were now in very fine condition. In the mean time, we were agreeably -occupied in hunting, fishing and dancing; the people of the neighborhood -being sufficient for our social entertainments. - -Every morning we rode out to the savannas to hunt an ox for our meals. -The remainder of the day was occupied in scouring the adjacent woods and -plains after our steeds, who seemed as if conscious of the life that -awaited them beyond La Portuguesa; for it required all the ingenuity and -sagacity of the Llaneros to discover their hiding-places, and bring them -again to the corrals. The evenings were devoted to dancing and singing -by the light of half a dozen _candiles_, or lamps made of burned clay, -and filled with the grease of crocodiles. The habitations being -considerably scattered along the banks of the river, we employed a -number of runners for the purpose of bringing the company to the -_fandango_, as these nocturnal revelries are called, who came in canoes -or wading through the mud as occasion required. - -And now, refined and courteous reader, picture to yourself a motley -assemblage, brought together without any regard to color, age, or -position, under an open shed or barracoon dimly lighted, and you will -form an idea of our _soirées dansantes_, which for merriment and -courtesy might with good reason have been the envy of the most polished -_reunions_. - -The orchestra was composed of a guitar scarcely larger than the hand -that twanged it, a banjo of huge proportions, and a couple of noisy -_maracas_, rattle-boxes made from the shell of the calabash fruit, and -filled with the seed of a Marantha or Indian shot. No music is -considered complete without this accompaniment, which, as well as I -could judge, filled the place of castanets, or the less romantic “bones” -of negro minstrelsy. A wooden handle is attached to each, to enable the -performer to shake them to and fro, which he does with appropriate -gestures and contortions expressive of his different emotions. A -corresponding choir of singers, picked from our own suite, was attached -to the players. All Llaneros are passionately fond of music, and display -considerable talent, composing many beautiful songs of a national -character, called _tonos_ or _trovas llaneras_. Few in the country are -not gifted with the power of versification, and there are among them -many famous _improvisatori_. Whenever two of these are brought together, -a competition for the laurel crown is the invariable consequence. This -amicable strife sometimes occupies several successive hours, ending only -when one of the bards is fairly silenced by the other; the victor is -then declared the _lion_ of the fête and receives accordingly not only -the congratulations of his admirers, but also secures the smiles of the -most sparkling eyes in the company. It is really surprising to see men, -who cannot distinguish one letter of the alphabet from another, compose -and extemporize poetry which, although rude in character, is -nevertheless full of interest and significance. Most of their songs and -ballads refer to deeds of valor performed by their own heroes; while -others recount their love adventures, and daily struggles with the wild -and unsubdued nature which surrounds them. Their instruments, when -handled with skill, produce very harmonious sounds. The _bandola_ or -banjo bears no resemblance to the one in common use among the negroes of -the States. It is, in fact, a guitar of large proportions, shaped -somewhat like the lute of old. The guitar of the Llanos is the reverse -of its associate the banjo, being considerably smaller and with only -five strings, on which account it is called _Cinco_. Still, it is a very -noisy little instrument, all its cords being made to resound at once by -running the fingers of the right hand up and down over them, while those -of the left stop them at the right moment. - -The dancers do not grapple with each other, as is the practice among -some of the more enlightened, but dance alone, joining hands -occasionally for a few moments, and then separating and whirling round -by themselves. First, a woman paces round the room in double-quick step, -looking for a partner; when a suitable one is found, a graceful waving -of the handkerchief summons him before her; then both go through their -evolutions until the woman chooses to withdraw. The man then with a -polite bow invites a second partner, and so on to the end of the first -dance. This is styled the _Galeron_, in which only the most skilful -dancers take part, as it requires great flexibility of joint and limb to -execute all the intricate and graceful posturings and swayings of the -body, constituting the principal charm of the performance. They have a -variety of other dances, such as _La Maricela_, _El Raspon_, _La Zapa_, -&c., all of which, however, are of the same character, the chief -difference being in the _double entendre_ of the stanzas sung as -accompaniment to the music. _La Maricela_, especially, is a very -exciting dance, from the satirical _bon mots_ hurled by the bard of the -evening at each couple as they pass. The facility with which these -verses are improvised is most amusing, and would even astonish the most -accomplished Neapolitan _improvisatore_. Some of them are capital hits -upon the personal appearance, &c., of the dancers, and none fail to find -some point for ridicule. - - * * * * * - -Three or four days we sojourned among these jolly people, and then again -set out for the scene of our future adventures, stopping for the night -at San Jaime, once a thriving town, but now nearly deserted in -consequence of the desolating civil wars which have afflicted the -country for several years. On our way thither, we traversed a succession -of beautiful prairies, bound by rings of magnificent forest trees, and -watered by numerous creeks and lagoons filled with water fowl. Unlike -the dreary wastes we had already crossed, which, “like the ocean, fill -the imagination with the idea of infinity,” the plains stretching -between the Portuguesa and Apure rivers are characterized by the -rankness and luxuriance of the vegetation. Owing to the periodical -inundation, the landscape wears here the green mantle of spring even -during the hottest months. - -This yearly inundation is one of the most curious phenomena of this -region. At the approach of the rainy season, those two magnificent -offsprings of the Sierra Nevada, the Apure and Portuguesa, tired as it -were of their long repose, suddenly rise in their heated, muddy beds, -and leap over their borders, at first in playful gambols; then in -fearful and rapid course, converting these widely extended plains into a -vast lagoon. To the few spots which escape the general submersion, the -inhabitants retire with their chattels and flocks in canoes held in -readiness for the purpose. - -Thus the land is kept in a state of constant irrigation and fertility -unsurpassed in any country, although at the expense of the comfort of -the inhabitants, who are compelled to abandon their homes to the -crocodiles and anacondas of the stream. When the waters subside, the -intruders are expelled by the rightful owners of the dwellings; the few -articles of furniture they possess replaced in the damp rooms, and they -again devote themselves to domestic pursuits until the next inundation -forces them anew to seek a home elsewhere. I was shown at the pass the -marks left by the water on the walls of the cottages, indicating in some -instances a rise of twelve feet. - - * * * * * - -I was struck with the size and luxuriance of the trees along the course -of these rivers. My attention was particularly attracted by the _saman_, -a species of Mimosa, with delicate, feathery flowers of a pinkish hue, -and gigantic, umbrella-shaped boughs. There is in the valleys of Aragua -one of these which, from time immemorial, has elicited the admiration of -travellers, and received the protection of the law since the discovery -and settlement of the country, for its magnificent proportions and the -great age which it is supposed to have attained. - -Extensive tracts of land are entirely taken up by individuals of this -class. It would be impossible to conceive any thing more grand in nature -than a forest of these trees. It might be said of them that each is a -forest in itself; and were all the beautiful parasites that cling to -their trunks and branches for support spread upon the ground, they would -cover several acres. All along the course of the great rivers Apure, -Guarico, and Portuguesa, the _saman_ is found in such countless numbers -that the combined fleets of the civilized world might be reconstructed -from this inexhaustible supply. The axe of the northerner could readily -convert those stupendous forests into vehicles of commerce and -civilization, were it not for the wasting fevers, endemic of that -region. Now they only serve as protective haunts for desperate bands of -robbers and cut-throats, let loose by unprincipled politicians. - -[Illustration] - -Equally rank and luxuriant are the grasses in these alluvial lands. We -were compelled to drive before us all the relay horses and other beasts -of burden to open a passage and save our bare feet from being dreadfully -lacerated by the _gamelote_, a tall, cutting, and worthless grass, with -blades almost as sharp as a “Toledo.” It grows so closely and rapidly as -to obliterate in a few days the paths made by travellers, killing every -other species in its way. Unfortunately, it is perfectly useless as -fodder, except for _Chigüires_ or water-hogs, which feed on it when -nothing better offers, and to the flesh of which it imparts its -disagreeable flavor; the _gamelote_ is therefore consigned to the flames -as soon as it is ripe enough to burn, which it does with as much seeming -fury as it displayed against the feet and legs of travellers in its -green days. - -On the second night of our journey, we pitched our camp near several -ponds, literally crowded with alligators and fish and water fowl of all -varieties, which kept up a continual strife, to our great discomfort. -Not only was the water rendered noxious by the numerous creatures in it, -but even the air was filled with the effluvium and mosquitoes arising -therefrom. We were compelled to dig wells in the vicinity of the lagoons -to obtain water for our use; but no artifice could shield us from the -unmerciful attacks of the mosquitoes, especially the kind called -_pullones_, from the length and strength of the proboscis. We tried in -vain to escape their painful sting by rolling ourselves from head to -foot in our ponchos and hammocks, at the peril of suffocation; the -needle-like proboscis of the insects actually penetrated through the -folds of our covering so as to draw blood. Nor would the smoke of the -blazing fires around the camp drive them off, as was anticipated. -Fortunately, they only paid us an early visit, retiring all at once -before midnight, and leaving us to the tender mercies of their kinsfolk, -the noisy mosquitoes or _zancudos_. These, although not so tormenting -with their sting, were none the less so with their music, while no part -of our bodies could be left uncovered without being instantly besieged -by swarms of these “howling-insect wolves.” This, however, was the only -occasion upon which we were troubled by mosquitoes during our journey, -as they only appear in force during the rainy season. - -I noticed here for the first time a low range of hills or _médanos_, -mere accumulations of sand tossed from place to place by the winds -across the boundless plain; to-day, they rise above the surrounding -prairies; to-morrow, they are levelled with the dust of the savannas: -fit emblem of the ephemeral republics of the South! These _médanos_ had -been overrun by the _gamelote_, giving them the character of permanent -hills, from which the place takes the name of Medanos de San Martin. - -It is scarcely necessary to say that there was no temptation to prolong -our stay there longer than was needed by our horses, who revelled all -night in the fine meadows around the lagoons. Packing up once more, we -bade adieu to that inhospitable encampment long before daylight. - -Struggling through miles of _gamelote_, we reached the cattle farm of -Corozito towards noon. Don Luciano Samuel, the proprietor, extended to -us the hospitalities of his demesne with the characteristic grace and -frankness of the people in those regions. From thence to the Pass of -Apurito, on the river Apure, was only a few hours’ ride; and the morning -being the best time for crossing the river with our animals, we rose -early in order to reach it before the breeze should commence blowing. - -Owing to the thick vegetation on its banks, we did not discover the -river until we were close upon it; and then, with what delight did I -again view the broad surface of this magnificent stream! - -Although born near its shores, I had but a faint recollection of its -broad expanse. Perhaps its turbulent waves had rocked my raw-hide -cradle during one of the periodical inundations; for, from earliest -childhood, I have borne marks left by the teeth of the _caribe_. - -What glorious recollections of the fierce contest for liberty did its -waters bring to memory! Not the lordly Thames, with its “woven-winged” -argosies, teeming with the merchandise of the earth; the enchanting -Delaware, framed in romantic cottages and orchard groves; nor yet the -splendid Hudson, renowned for its floating palaces and legends, but -more, that on its banks nestles the home of Irving, awakened in my -breast such emotions of heartfelt admiration as did this silent -messenger from the Sierra Nevada! There, amidst the thunders of the -Heavens and rolling avalanches, it takes its rise, precipitately -descending to the plain below through a succession of frightful leaps, -which shake the primeval forest to its very foundations. And so it -comes, that its surface is often loaded with an immense accumulation of -fallen trees from the various zones of vegetation it traverses in its -course. Thus the delicate ferns and other Alpine plants are commingled -with those of the burning climes below, and finally deposited in the -wide estuary forming the delta of the Orinoco. When future generations -shall disentomb them in a petrified state, their geologists will no -doubt attribute this singular agglomeration to wonderful changes in the -temperature of the earth. - -The river Apure, properly speaking, is formed by the confluence of two -other streams, the Sarare and Uribante. The former has its rise among -the New Granadian range of mountains, although a great portion of its -waters flow now into the Arauca, consequent on the great deposits of -sand and drift wood accumulating at its mouth. - -The Uribante, or Upper Apure, may be considered the main channel of this -river, with a total length of six hundred and forty miles, five hundred -and sixty-four of which are navigable for large vessels. It takes the -name of Apure after its junction with the Sarare; but is again -subdivided into several ramifications called _caños_ or creeks, each of -which has a particular name; among them, La Ebilla, Apurito and -Apure-Seco are the most important; these again unite with the main -channel, and form islands of surprising fertility. These islands are -invaluable as _potreros_ for the cattle, when other parts of the country -are parched with the droughts of summer, the steep banks and wide -channels of the rivers serving as the most effectual barriers against -their roaming propensities. - -The geographical situation of this river, joined as it is to one of the -greatest tributaries of the wide ocean--the Orinoco--at a point nearly -five hundred miles from its confluence with the sea, stamps it as one of -the most important lines of internal navigation in the world, and points -to the wild region of the Llanos as a future emporium of civilization. -To it all the products and other natural sources of wealth from the -adjoining provinces will be brought for immediate exportation to foreign -markets; as, in addition to the vast area of level country traversed by -it, this river receives the tribute of a hundred navigable streams -descending from the eastern slope of the Andes of New Granada and -Venezuela. - -The width of the Apure varies considerably according to the seasons of -rains and droughts; sometimes extending miles beyond its actual channel, -but usually not less than one thousand yards broad. Humboldt, who -measured it at San Fernando in the month of May, when it had receded to -its lowest ebb, found it to be two hundred and thirty-six toises broad; -higher up it is considerably wider, gradually diminishing as it -approaches its great confluent. Alluding to this singular phenomenon, -mostly caused by evaporation and infiltrations through the dry, sandy -banks of the river, the same eminent traveller elucidates some curious -facts worthy of notice. He says: “Some idea of the magnitude of these -effects may be formed, from the fact that we found the heat of the dry -sands at different hours of the day from 36° to 52°,[26] and that of -sands covered with three or four inches of water 32°. The beds of rivers -are heated as far as the depth to which the solar rays can penetrate, -without undergoing too great an expansion in their passage through the -superincumbent strata of water. Besides, filtration extends in a lateral -direction far beyond the bed of the river. The shore, which appears dry -to us, imbibes water as far up as to the level of the surface of the -river. We saw water gush out at the distance of fifty toises from the -shore, every time that the Indians struck their oars into the ground. -Now, these sands, wet below but dry above, and exposed to the solar -rays, act like sponges, and lose the infiltrated water every instant by -evaporation. The vapor that is emitted traverses the upper stratum of -sand strongly heated, and becomes sensible to the eye when the air cools -towards evening. As the beach dries, it draws from the river new -portions of water; and it may be easily conceived that this continual -alternation of vaporization and lateral absorption must cause an immense -loss, difficult to submit to exact calculation. The increase of these -losses would be in proportion to the length of the course of the rivers, -if from their source to their mouth they were equally surrounded by a -flat shore; but these shores being formed by deposits from the water, -and the water having less velocity in proportion as it is more remote -from its source, throwing down more sediment in the lower than in the -upper part of its course, many rivers in hot climates undergo a -diminution in the quantity of their water as they approach their -outlets. Mr. Barrow observed these curious effects of sands in the -southern part of Africa, on the banks of the Orange river. They have -also become the subject of a very important discussion in the various -hypotheses that have been formed respecting the course of the Niger.” - -At the time we crossed the Apure, it was considerably below the average -width, as we were then in the midst of the dry season; nevertheless, it -presented a formidable obstacle to our progress. There being only one -canoe at the pass, the whole morning was spent in the transportation of -our bulky riding-gear and luggage; and the breeze setting in shortly -after our arrival, the passage of the horses was postponed until noon, -in consequence of the agitated state of the water. It would have been -rather hazardous to expose our valuable steeds to the “chopping sea,” -which, beating against the animals’ nostrils, is apt to stop their -respiration, and as they then lose their steadiness in swimming, are -rendered liable to be drowned. - -We were met on the opposite bank of the river by a committee of -gentlemen in their shirt sleeves, like ourselves, commissioned by the -inhabitants of Apurito to tender our Leader the hospitalities of their -village. Prominent among them was the general overseer of his estate. -Commandant Rávago, a tough, wiry, and weather-beaten individual, whose -nose Nature had made of an unjustifiable length, and who discoursed in a -language peculiar to himself. Indeed, it required one to be well versed -in the jargon of the Llanos to understand his dissertations upon matters -and things in general; for he pretended to be a connoisseur in every -thing, except languages; the English, especially, was peculiarly -distasteful to his ears, and whenever he heard us conversing in that -tongue, he declared in his patois, that it reminded him of a pack of -horses neighing to each other. Notwithstanding his uncouth manner and -appearance, our overseer was a very shrewd fellow, and quite _au fait_ -in all matters appertaining to cattle farms. - -As for the village or port of Apurito, it was a mere assemblage of -mud-plastered cottages, thatched, like all houses in that region, with -palm leaves. Some of them had doors and windows of planed boards; but -the greater part were free to whoever and whatever chose to walk or -_crawl_ into them; no church, no school-house, no building devoted to -public meetings of any sort. The Alcalde, that most important -functionary in small Spanish communities, held his audiences in the -narrow corridor of his hut, while the _sala_ was devoted to the -all-absorbing game of _monte_. Once a year the Padre, next in importance -to his Honor the Alcalde, paid a visit to the village, when all the boys -and girls who had not been baptized were brought before him at his -lodgings, where the ceremony was performed in a somewhat informal -manner, and without special regard being paid to the strict injunctions -of the Church. There were a few storehouses scattered along the banks of -the river, where all business transactions were carried on. These were -principally in hides, which are given in exchange for the few articles -of barter brought from the Orinoco. Hides, in fact, are the bank notes -of the Llanos; and although rather voluminous and uncleanly, they change -hands as readily as any “paper” that was ever in “the market.” These are -taken to Ciudad Bolívar, formerly Angostura, in bongos and one-mast -sailing vessels called _lanchas_, which return laden with salt, knives, -blankets, and printed calicoes, articles of prime necessity among the -inhabitants. Other ports along the Apure, such as Nutrias and San -Fernando, carry on a very extensive trade in these goods. The -first-named town adds largely to her exports, bringing in the -agricultural products of the adjoining province of Barinas. These are -coffee, cacao, indigo, and tobacco; the last being highly prized in -Germany for meerschaums, and always obtaining a ready sale at Bolívar. - -The course of the Apure being nearly in a straight line from west to -east, the trade winds blowing across the plains in the summer season -play a very important part in propelling, even against the current, the -heaviest craft sailing up the river. During the rainy season, the -westerly winds combine with the current of the stream in expediting the -progress of vessels. Of late, several steamboats have been added to -those already engaged in this traffic; and I am told are doing a very -profitable business. God speed them! - -“During the time of great floods,” writes Humboldt, “the inhabitants of -these countries, to avoid the force of the currents, and the danger -arising from the trunks of trees which these currents bring down, -instead of ascending the beds of rivers in their boats, cross the -savannas. To go from San Fernando to the villages of San Juan de Payara, -San Rafael de Atamaica, or San Francisco de Capanaparo, they direct -their course due south, as if they were crossing a single river of -twenty leagues broad. The junctions of the Guarico, the Apure, the -Cabullare, and the Arauca with the Orinoco, form, at a hundred and sixty -leagues from the coast of Guiana, a kind of interior delta, of which -hydrography furnishes few examples in the Old World. According to the -height of the mercury in the barometer, the waters of the Apure have -only a fall of thirty-four toises from San Fernando to the sea. The fall -from the mouths of the Osage and the Missouri to the bar of the -Mississippi is not more considerable. The savannas of Lower Louisiana -everywhere remind us of the savannas of the Lower Orinoco.”--_Travels to -the Equinoxial Regions._ - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -SAVANNAS OF APURE. - - -After a thorough examination of animals and baggage, to see that all was -as it ought to be, we left the uninteresting village of Apurito for our -cattle-estate of San Pablo de Apure, a few miles further south. As we -passed the last house fronting the river, Mr. Thomas descried a -jaguar-skin, which the owner of the hut had spread to dry upon the -fence. Wishing to examine it more closely, he spurred his mule ahead and -was in the act of seizing the skin, when the animal, whose view of it -had until then been obstructed by the other beasts, coming unexpectedly -into close proximity with the--to him--fearful object, drew back in -terror, snorting, kicking, and plunging so violently as to capsize the -unlucky artist upon the sandy beach. The abhorrence with which mules -regard the South American tiger, is one of the most curious phenomena of -animal instinct with which I am acquainted; not only do they manifest it -at sight of the creature, but also by their scent, while the animal is -still a long distance off, and yet, in most cases, they have never seen -a tiger, as was the case in the present instance, this mule having been -reared in the _potreros_ of San Pablo de Paya, where tigers are rarely, -if ever, met with. - -After a ride of a few hours through alternate glades of gigantic mimosas -and verdant savannas, we reached San Pablo before night had cast her -gloom over those solemn wilds. The house was neat and well located, -commanding an extended view of the country and innumerable herds of -cattle grazing in the distance. There were, besides, a large _caney_ or -barracoon for the accommodation of the men and their chattels, and a -detached hut in which the culinary functions of the establishment were -to be performed. - -The appellation of San Pablo, conferred on this farm also--although the -owner possessed already another of the same name--made me suspect that -snakes were not uncommon in that country, the reality of which fact I -ascertained the first time that I strolled any considerable distance -from the house. In a country where saints are supposed to exert an -unbounded influence over all human affairs, it is not unusual to give to -houses and localities, threatened with some special calamity, the name -of the saint who is considered the patron or defender from that -particular evil: thus places which are frequently visited by -thunderstorms, are called after Santa Barbara; those infested with -snakes, receive the name of San Pablo, &c., &c. - -Although this farm formed part of the demesne we came to inspect, we did -not remain there longer than was absolutely necessary to investigate -into its general condition. - -When the order was given to remove to El Frio--another farm further -westward--we gladly saddled horses and started off at a brisk pace over -those fresh and beautiful prairies which, with their perpetual grassy -carpet, caused us to feel as if we were coming into a land of promise -and contentment, instead of one of toil and hardship. Indeed, every -thing denoted that we were now entering on far different scenes from -those we had left across the river. It seemed a terrestrial paradise, -where a beneficent Providence had congregated every animal most needed -by man. Now it was the slender forms of deer in herds bounding swiftly -over the greensward; now the gristly wild hogs and capyvaras making -hastily for the nearest swamp to avoid the eager chase of our men. -Occasionally might be seen a redoubtable wild bull, retiring sulkily and -slowly at the head of his shaggy troop, as if wishing to dispute our -right to enter his domain. Vegetation, however, seemed to flourish here -less than in other places we had visited, as, excepting a few scattered -palms of a new variety, and some straggling Matas--which, from the -mirage continually before us, appeared like fairy groves set in clearest -water--nothing but the fine and level lawn met the eye for many miles. - -Unlike the higher plains, where only a coarse herbage predominates, the -savannas of Apure are characterized by a luxuriant growth of various -grasses, which, like those of the Portuguesa, preserve a uniform verdure -throughout the year. These grasses--some of which are as soft and -pliable as silk--are most important in the economy of cattle-breeding in -the savannas watered by the Apure and its tributaries. The prodigious -increase of animals in these plains is mainly owing to the superiority -of the pastures over those of the upper regions of the Llanos, from -whence the farmer is compelled to migrate with his stock every summer. - -I noticed in Apure three varieties of grass, which in richness of flavor -and nutritious qualities can hardly be surpassed by any other fodder -plants of the temperate zones. In the early part of the rainy season, -the granadilla--a grass reaching to about four feet in height, with -tender succulent blades and panicles of seed not unlike some varieties -of broomcorn--starts with the earliest showers of spring. It grows with -great rapidity, and is greedily sought by all ruminants; but being an -annual, soon disappears, leaving no vestige of its existence. In the -alluvial bottomlands subject to the periodical inundation, two other -grasses, no less esteemed for their nutriment, have an uninterrupted -growth and luxuriance which the hottest season cannot blast; these are -the _carretera_, named from the beautiful prairie-goose that feeds on -it, and the _lambedora_, so termed on account of its softness, animals -feeding on it appearing to lick rather than masticate it. Cattle and -horses thrive on it very perceptibly, and even calves only a fortnight -old, may be left to shift for themselves amidst those nutritious -pastures. - -_Esteros_ is the name by which these perennial meadows are there -designated. They have moreover the - -[Illustration: GARZERO.] - -advantage of retaining water enough throughout the year to make them the -resort of all kinds of quadrupeds and of every fowl whom “Nature has -taught to dip the wing in water,” the former to allay their thirst and -feast on the fine grass, and the latter for the purpose of raising their -young in the vicinity of ponds well stocked with fish of all varieties. - -No description can convey a just idea of the appearance presented by -these lagoons, crowded with almost every variety of animal. The birds in -particular--most of which belong to the extensive family of cranes--seem -to have migrated there from all quarters of the globe. These -fluttering communities of aquatic birds are known in the country -under the appropriate name of _garzeros_, from the many -_garzas_--herons--predominating in them. The immense number of these may -be conceived from the fact that their colonies sometimes embrace -several miles in extent. I noticed there also various kinds of -cranes--_garzones_--one of them, called the soldier, from its erect -bearing and martial air--is over five feet in height, with a bill fully -a foot long. The _garzas_ were of various sizes and colors, some -snow-white, some a delicate blue, others gray or pink, and many of a -brilliant scarlet. Although cranes and herons are species very nearly -allied, yet they verify the old saying, “birds of a feather flock -together,” for each keeps quite distinct from the other. They generally -select the spreading top of a low tree--_caujaro_--growing in vast -quantities near the water, in which to build their nests; these are of -dry sticks very ingeniously interwoven among the branches. Well-beaten -tracks are made under the bushes by the tramp of many suspicious -characters of the feline tribe, who make these feathered colonies their -favorite resort, where they improve every opportunity of appropriating -any young birds that may chance to fall from the nests. - -As we rode past several ponds, covered with a kind of water-lily, whose -flowers are of a dark purple color, myriads of ducks, of the small -species called _güiriries_, rose in the air, actually for the moment -obscuring the sun. They uttered a shrill note, clearly repeating the -sound from which they are named, so that the hunter easily discovers -their whereabout. There were, besides, great numbers of a larger species -of duck--the _pato real_, or royal duck--so named, I presume, from a -graceful tuft of black feathers with which it is crowned. Here and there -a brace of _carreteros_ soared over head, uttering their peculiar -rolling notes; the hoarse quacking of the male bird, followed by the -shrill cries of the female, make perfect the before-mentioned -resemblance to the rumbling of cartwheels. - -During the moulting season, the people in the neighborhood of these -lagoons resort to them from time to time, and drive without difficulty -towards the farm-house as many of these ducks as they may desire. I was -assured by several reliable individuals that not far from San Pablo -there is a lagoon on the borders of which a regiment of cavalry once -encamped, and lived during a fortnight exclusively on these birds, -without any apparent diminution of their numbers. - -This prodigious exuberance of animal life has justly entitled the Apure -to the reputation of being a land of plenty; but, alas, it is also a -land of death! as, from the bottom of these extensive marshes miasmas of -a pestilential nature are continually arising, which, at certain seasons -of the year, render this fine country almost uninhabitable for man. They -are also the abode of those enormous water-snakes or anacondas, known in -the country under the name of _culebras de agua_, in contradistinction -to the boa constrictor or _traga-venado_, so termed on account of the -ease with which it gorges itself with a whole deer at once. Both of -these snakes are also remarkable for the strength which enables them to -crush their victims in the coils of their huge muscular bodies; but the -anaconda is by far the more voracious and bold of the two, attacking not -only inferior animals, such as deer, capyvaras, and young calves, but -even that pride of the herd, the _padrote_, cannot always escape the -deadly embrace. Woe to the unsuspecting colt or heifer, who, panting -with thirst and heat, should incautiously plunge into one of these -modern Stygian lakes, for the coil of the monster will in an instant be -around it, followed by a fearful cracking of its bones. This -accomplished, the snake proceeds to cover the whole mangled body with a -slimy secretion from his mouth which assists him in the process of -deglutition. Should it be a stag--the head of which presents the -formidable obstacle of its huge antlers--the snake commences by -swallowing first the hind quarters, trusting to time and the natural -process of decay for the head to drop off. In this plight the anaconda -is often found, looking like an immense log, stretched out in the soft -mud of lagoons, whence they are then easily dragged by means of a lazo, -tied to the tail of a horse. On examining the mouth of one of these -snakes, it will be found that the jaws are furnished with a row of sharp -and crooked teeth, bent inward like tenter hooks; with these he seizes -his prey, and holds it securely until the victim, unable to struggle -longer, drops exhausted. What appears most extraordinary in these -unequal contests, is the tenacity with which the snake adheres to the -soft mud of the lagoon, there being neither rock nor stump to which he -can secure himself. Nor will the efforts of a large bull, no matter how -powerful, be sufficient to drag the snake one inch out of his element, -unless he is first cut asunder. In darting upon a quadruped, the -anaconda invariably aims at its snout, the animal seldom escaping when -once the terrible fangs have been buried in its flesh. It is not an -unusual thing, however, for a bull to cut a snake asunder in his violent -struggles; then the shaggy victor may be seen proudly marching at the -head of his troop with this unsightly trophy hanging from his nose. The -toughness of the anaconda’s skin makes it eagerly sought after by the -inhabitants for straps and various other objects susceptible of injury -from friction, as they outwear those made from any other material. The -fat is also much esteemed for burning, and as a lubricator for the bones -and tendons of persons afflicted with rheumatism, or rigidity of limb. -This oil is perfectly clear and transparent, without any disagreeable -odor, and is readily absorbed into the system by simply rubbing it on -the skin. - -Shortly after leaving San Pablo, we had a spirited chase after a herd -of wild pigs. There were upwards of twenty browsing on the borders of a -pond, and in an instant the whole plain--in such repose a few moments -before--resounded with the cries and clatter of our horsemen in eager -pursuit of this delicious game of the Llanos. Many of the men being -provided with lances, they had no difficulty in despatching most of -those whose fate threw them in the way of the remorseless cavaliers. But -an old _berraco_ or boar, which seemed to be the sultan of the grisly -community, harassed by the combined attacks of several horsemen, -suddenly whirled round and made a gallant stand, determined, as it -appeared, not to give up without a fierce resistance. At first it was -supposed that three or four men would be sufficient to bring him down, -and that number were accordingly sent after him; but finding the -engagement protracted, several others, including myself, went to their -assistance. On reaching the spot a fearful spectacle was presented to -us. The infuriated animal, his eyes shooting fire, and fiercely grinding -his tusks, stood at bay a short distance from his aggressors, his mouth -covered with a bloody froth, while one of the men lay bleeding profusely -from a wound on the thigh inflicted by the sharp tusks of the boar. We -learned that Cipriano, the wounded hunter’s name, perceiving that the -lances of his companions only succeeded in irritating the boar, very -foolishly leaped from his saddle, and drawing his sword, deliberately -attacked him without even taking the precaution of covering his -movements with the sheepskin from his saddle, as is practised in -contests with wild bulls. The man boasted with reason of being the most -skilful matador in all the Apure; but in this case he did not reckon on -the tough hide of his opponent; for, at the first rush of the boar upon -him, and in spite of the steadiness with which he aimed the stroke, the -well-tempered steel bent like a reed the moment it encountered the -shoulder of the boar, leaving Cipriano completely at the mercy of the -enraged brute. The consequence, as I have already stated, was a severe -gash, almost laying bare the femoral bone of the unfortunate matador. -The tusks of the wild boar, especially those of the lower jaw, are so -long and sharp, that the animal makes use of them as a bull does of his -horns. The upper ones rest directly upon the lower, and his constant -grinding of them, especially when he is enraged, soon wears the points -into a broad and sharp edge. United, these tusks form a perfect circle -five or six inches in diameter. The services of our surgeon, Dr. -Gallegos, were immediately called into requisition, who dressed the -wound, while the companions of the suffering hunter endeavored to avenge -him. They rained a shower of lances upon the body of the enraged beast, -but, apparently, with no better effect; for, with one powerful stroke of -his tusks, he broke in two the shaft of some and carried away the head -of others. Doubtless we should have succeeded in finishing him after a -time; but the helpless condition of our companion requiring especial -care, we placed him on his saddle, for want of better conveyance, and, -leaving the boar conqueror, proceeded on our journey. - -Having killed more animals than we could conveniently carry, we selected -two fat sows for our breakfast, and left the remainder to the flock of -turkey-buzzards which, like a troop of hungry scavengers, followed our -line of march across the prairies. - -I may observe here that the wild boar of the Llanos is the common hog -run wild in consequence of the little or no care bestowed upon their -breeding in the cattle-farms, and as they find in these swamps all the -elements they require for their development, viz., roots of various -kinds, sweet herbs, eels, snakes, and mire _ad libitum_, their -propagation is greatly increased. Thus the number of pigs in these -savannas is almost incredible--in the lands of El Frio alone being -estimated at forty thousand--and a just idea may be formed of their -ravages from the fact that, for miles around, those fine prairies have -been completely ploughed up by them, rendering the ground exceedingly -dangerous for horses, and almost useless for cattle-breeding, by -destroying the fine pastures which are invariably replaced by a crop of -worthless weeds. - -Wild hogs, nevertheless, sometimes render good service by destroying the -snakes--for which they seem to have a particular penchant--especially -that little scourge of the savannas of Apure, the dreaded _matacaballo_. - -The tails of these hogs being especially long, and, as usual, twisted, -they swing them round continually when running--a peculiarity which did -not escape a benighted son of Africa, who was being trained at a -cattle-farm to the business of the Llanos, and which occasioned quite a -ludicrous scene at one of these hunts. He had become already expert in -the use of the lazo, and was one day taken to the savanna by the -overseer for the purpose of procuring an ox for slaughter, when they -fell in with a fine hog, which at once changed their plans, and they -immediately gave him chase. None of the men had lazos, except the negro, -and he was therefore commanded to follow and secure the game; but -although he rode a very swift horse, and was often within range of the -lazo, he was observed each time to slacken his pace without any apparent -cause. “Now then, ... son of ... thy mother,” the Llanero vociferated, -“let go the lazo, or we will roast thee alive in his stead,” shouting at -him also many other no less characteristic expressions. But Sambo, -waving the lazo over his head in order to keep the noose open, would -again stop short of his mark, until the pig, who probably knew by this -time that he was wanted, straining every nerve to reach a swamp hard by, -succeeded at last in gaining a clump of wild plantains that bordered the -_estero_. Here the major-domo, losing his small remnant of patience, -quickly rode up to him, and discharging sundry lashes with his -_chaparro_ upon the sooty skin of his apprentice, asked him, in a -thundering voice: “How now, _my master_, why did ye let the fellow go -without a single effort on thy part to secure him? Have not I taught -thee well enough how to handle a lazo, thou sooty imp?” “Oh! yessa, -massa,” quoth the darkey; “but, look yer, massa, when me wisher to lazo -pig, him wisher to lazo me neither;” imitating, at the same time, with -his arm the swinging of the pig’s tail. - -Very beautiful was the appearance of the many herds, each headed by its -_padrote_, on all sides dispersing at our approach. The bulls are -generally of a grave and quiet disposition when collected in herds, and -rather avoid the approach of man unless provoked to self-defence, when -they become very ferocious. Each troop is under the control of the most -powerful bull in the drove, a position which is only attained by dint of -strength and courage; as not only has he to defend his troop from the -attacks of the common enemy, but to maintain his supremacy against rival -enamorados. Thus the _padrote_, or big father, as he is appropriately -styled, can show many scars upon his tough hide, received in these -fierce combats. If a lion or jaguar approach during the night, the -_padrote_ immediately takes all his measures for the defence of his -post. His first care is to compel the herd into a compact mass, and then -advances to engage the enemy in single combat, from which he rarely -fails to come off victorious. In the mean time the herd, within the -limited space into which they have been congregated, with heads lowered -towards the enemy, prepare to repulse the intruder and defend their -young by a formidable array of horns. - -Man is the only antagonist whose superiority the _padrote_ will -acknowledge; but even this is not without an obstinate resistance -whenever he has an opportunity. Nor will he retire in a hurry from his -pursuers, but facing about from time to time, often succeeds in -thwarting their intentions and securing an honorable retreat. - -When the sun is high in the meridian, troops of these noble animals may -be seen slowly advancing towards the nearest _mata_, seeking to avoid -the excessive heat of the day and to enjoy their siesta in cool -retirement. Here they amuse themselves sometimes in watching over their -harems, sometimes in making their toilet, which is rubbing the point of -their horns against the hard trunk of a palm tree, or any other -convenient object, until they become sharp as awls. Woe! then, to the -imprudent traveller who, overpowered by the heat, seeks refuge in one of -those groves, thus intruding upon the sanctuary of his bullship’s -seraglio. Should he succeed in escaping safe and sound, his horse is -certain of being severely chastised for his master’s indiscretion. - -An adventurous Briton, who once penetrated into one of those haunts -sacred to Taurus, came very near losing his life in consequence. He -fortunately escaped with only a few scratches and contusions; but his -clothes were torn from his body by the horns and hoofs of the bull. It -chanced in this wise: The intensity of the sun’s rays had compelled the -traveller and his companion--a shrewd old Llanero, who acted as -guide--to seek shelter under a solitary grove. On a closer acquaintance -they judged it to be the retreat of a wild bull, from the deep scars -observable on the bark of the trees, evidently caused by some animal’s -horns. They were not mistaken, for they soon discovered at a short -distance, quietly grazing, the probable owner of the rural retreat. -Knowing from experience that this would be a very unsafe spot for their -siesta, the Llanero advised that they should move off at once, rather -than be ejected thence, as would surely be the case if they remained -much longer. But John Bull, with characteristic pride, and trusting -entirely to his fine brace of pistols, laughed at the idea of giving up -his comfortable quarters, without at least a struggle for their -possession. Ordering the man to sling his hammock, he carefully examined -his pistols, after which he retired to his aërial couch. The Llanero -shook his head and very wisely omitted unsaddling the horses, contenting -himself with merely unfastening the straps. Presently the bull began to -advance in the direction of the _mata_, which the phlegmatic Englishman -no sooner perceived, than quitting his hammock, he seized his pistols -and went to the encounter. The Llanero crossed himself, and taking the -horses aside, proceeded to secure the saddles and to tie the lazo to the -tail of his own steed. In the mean time the bull continued leisurely -advancing, apparently without much noticing his uninvited guests; -occasionally, however, uttering deep bellowings expressive of his -displeasure. Bang! bang! went the two pistols; but before the smoke had -cleared, the Llanero beheld his companion stretched upon the ground and -fiercely trampled under the feet of the infuriated animal. Swift as -thought, the Llanero sprang into the saddle, and spreading his lazo, -whirled it two or three times above his head; then let it fall around -the horns of the bull at the very instant he was about to transfix the -prostrate traveller. Thus providentially prevented from doing further -injury, he was easily hamstrung and finally despatched by the captors. -That the Englishman escaped being instantly killed, can only be -accounted for by the fact that a bull often misses his aim from the very -fury of his attack. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -EL FRIO. - - -On arriving at El Frio, we were agreeably surprised at finding more -spacious accommodations than we had anticipated. The house, although -thatched like all the rest with palm leaves, was spacious and well built -of _pajareque_; that is, the framework of the walls was of strong posts -of timber, well lathed and plastered over with soft mud mixed with -straw. In addition to a large _sala_ or reception room, it contained -three or four sleeping apartments; but these last were so full of bats, -that it was impossible to pass a comfortable night in them, especially -on account of the disagreeable odor proceeding from these disgusting -creatures, while the incessant bird-like chirping sound which they made -overhead, completely murdered our first night’s sleep. We tried in vain -to smoke them out by means of dried cow dung. They absented themselves -during a portion of the day, but were sure to return at dusk, bringing -with them an abundant supply of wild berries for their supper, some of -which they were constantly dropping in our hammocks, finally compelling -us to seek refuge in the open air of the corridors and courtyard. - -Apart from the mansion stood a row of smaller structures containing the -kitchen and storerooms of the farm, which being useless to us, we -abandoned to the bats and turkey-buzzards. Our cooking, as usual, was -left to our skilful _chef_ Mónico and his satellites, who preferred the -_sans façon_ style of the camp to confining themselves in the narrow -range of a kitchen. - - * * * * * - -That which chiefly attracted my attention at this farm was the -substantial nature of the fence encompassing the buildings, capable of -resisting not only the sudden rush of a herd of cattle, for which -purpose it was intended, but also a heavy cannonade, in case of need. It -was constructed of enormous blocks of trees, almost impervious to steel -or fire, driven into the ground, each as close to the other as possible, -and neatly trimmed at top so as to present an even surface. I was unable -to comprehend by what means those monster rails could have been removed -from the forest. This, I afterwards ascertained, had been accomplished -during the inundation of the savannas, when they are easily transported -in _balsas_ or rafts made of lighter wood. The trees yielding this -everlasting timber are two distinct species of acacias, known in the -country under the euphonious names of _Angelino_ and _Acapro_, either of -which will turn the edge of the best tempered steel if great care is not -used. I was shown here two uprights to the principal gate of the -_majada_ or great enclosure for cattle, nearly a hundred years old, -still in perfect preservation, although standing in soil subject to -alternate inundations and parching heats. - -The _majada_, also formed of strong posts, was sufficiently spacious to -contain three thousand animals, with compartments for the accommodation -of the herds during the various operations of cattle farms. Although -there was abundant vegetable material for the comfort or security of the -inmates, I observed here, as everywhere, a total want of shade trees -around the houses. The Llaneros, although strongly addicted to the -“sweets of savage life,” are decidedly opposed to trees in the immediate -neighborhood of their dwellings. Trees, say they, attract the -thunderbolt of heaven and the wild beasts of the field, being besides -the natural refuge of snakes and mosquitoes during the great floods. -This lack of shade was the more regretted by us as we were then in the -midst of the summer solstice, when the sun pours its vertical rays upon -the dry soil, while each day between the hours of ten and eleven, a -strong breeze arose, sweeping over the exposed plain, and bringing with -it showers of sand; this lodged in our mouths, eyes and ears, and -mingled with the food, thus rendering it unpalatable even to our -carnivorous appetites. And yet, but a short distance from the house -bloomed an inviting grove, two or three miles in circumference; this a -man of taste could have readily converted into a delightful abode, -especially as in the rainy season the inundation of the surrounding -savannas would permit the approach of vessels from the Orinoco, by which -the owner could supply himself with all the comforts of civilized life. -This charming spot was further embellished by a small lake, where we -daily watered our horses, though not without some risk to life and limb -on account of the _babas_ and caimans swarming in its depths. Even the -shallower portions were so filled with sting-rays, caribes, and other -aquatic vermin, as to render bathing in it extremely hazardous. Our -ablutions, therefore, were limited to the occasional scrubbing of our -dusty and heated bodies with wet towels. The _babas_, although still -more repulsive in appearance than their relative of the long snout--the -crocodile--are considered a _bonne bouche_, especially the tail, the -flesh of which is said to rival chicken in its flavor. From this -uninviting fount of the desert, necessity compelled us to replenish our -gourds each afternoon, that the particles of sand and clay with which it -was filled might have time to settle during the night. - -The summer breezes, although disagreeable in many respects, are yet most -necessary, carrying off noxious exhalations arising from the marshy -deposits which remain in those low grounds long after the waters have -subsided; otherwise those regions would be uninhabitable. The Apure is -especially salubrious in the dry season, and were it not for their -imprudences, the inhabitants would enjoy perfect health during at least -seven months of the year. But these people, careless of consequences, -and trusting to their iron constitutions, are not deterred, while in the -excitement of a long chase, from plunging into one of these pestiferous -marshes after the object of their pursuit. The result is a severe -reaction of the system, followed by violent spasms, fevers, or that most -horrid of diseases, elephantiasis or _mal de San Lazaro_, so prevalent -in the hot regions of tropical America. Add to this recklessness the -great want of medical resources in the country, and the consequent -wretchedness and misery can be readily imagined. Nevertheless, the -inhabitants seem to care so little about these endemic vicissitudes, -that in time one accustoms himself also to view them in the same spirit -of fatalism which they attach to every event of their lives. - -I was never weary of admiring the beauty of the sky and transparency of -the atmosphere at this season. Objects three or four miles distant -appeared as if actually only a few rods from the beholder, a -circumstance which often misled me when in my rambles after game I had -to traverse the plain on foot, occasioning frequent disappointments in -my reckonings. - -The radiation of heat evolved from the earth at night, produced by the -perfect clearness of the sky, was so great at times as to produce a very -sensible degree of cold, which rendered the use of blankets quite -acceptable; hence the name of _El Frio_ given to this estate. The -evenings, especially, were so raw and chilly, that in order to keep -warm, we passed a great portion of the night in revelry and dancing by -moonlight, although not one crinoline graced our soirées. But we had -excellent dancers of the _Zapateo_, a sort of “breakdown,” in which most -of our men exhibited a flexibility of feet and ankles which would have -done credit to the most accomplished Ethiopian troop. - -Our host _ño_ Juan Manuel, as the overseer was familiarly styled, had -engaged the services of a celebrated player on the _bandola_ from Banco -Largo, and there being no lack of _improvisatori_ among us, these -nightly revels were conducted with all the _éclat_ that circumstances -would permit. Among the bards who distinguished themselves most at such -times were the _Negro_ Quintana, an old Sergeant of the Guard, whose -constant attendance for many years on his beloved Chief and “Master,” as -he styled the General, had endeared him to the latter; and Sarmiento, as -the other was named, who acted in the capacity of _caporal_ to the -cattle farm of San Pablo. Both of these made themselves famous by the -wonderful facility with which they improvised on any given subject. They -occasionally varied the performances by singing to their guitars ballads -whose burden was invariably some adventure arising from the eventful -life in the pampas. Of these choice morceaux the most popular were -“Mambrun,” an imitation of the old French song, “_Malbrook s’en fut en -guerre_,” and “Marcelino.” The hero of this last was a renowned bandit, -who for a long time baffled all efforts to capture him, but who finally -received his deserts from the hands of a traitor, who joined his forays -for the purpose of betraying him to his enemies. - -Marcelino was a common _peon_ in one of the cattle farms bordering the -river Matiyure, but being of a restless and daring disposition, -preferred the roving life of a bandit to the more sober occupations of -the farm. Finding himself pursued by the hand of justice, he was -compelled for a time to seek refuge among the Indians south of the great -river Meta, who are at this day sole tenants of those immeasurable -wilds. His superior acquirements and boldness soon gained him the -confidence and respect of the savages, who finally adopted him for their -leader, following him in his marauding expeditions against the -defenceless cattle farms this side of the Arauca. Emboldened by success, -they attacked the wealthy town of that name, whence Marcelino carried -off a beautiful woman, the wife of a respectable farmer of the place, -who employed every means in his power to recover her. All efforts, -however, were for a time fruitless, owing to the wild nature of the -country and the cunning of her captor; but he was finally taken in one -of his expeditions. The intention had been to send him to Achaguas, with -which object he was well bound and placed under a strong escort; but -being a great favorite with all classes of Llaneros, who admire valor in -every form, he was finally given in charge of the famous Manuel -Blanco--a rich land owner of the Apure--at the earnest solicitation of -the latter, who promised to see him safely delivered to the authorities. -On the way thither, however, Marcelino managed to give his bondsman the -slip, and escaped to his favorite haunts again. All further attempts to -retake him failing at that time, a bold sambo from the upper country -volunteered to penetrate into the unknown region, intending to decoy him -and his savage band to a certain cattle farm where a strong picket of -cavalry would lie in wait. Having represented to Marcelino that immense -wealth in money and jewels was possessed by the owners of the farm, the -bandit concluded to come out of his fastness and retrieve his former -fame by a bold dash at the cattle farm of Herradero. On arriving at the -place, where matters having been arranged as had been agreed upon -between Maldonado--the betrayer’s appropriate name--and the officers of -justice, Marcelino and his band were surprised. He endeavored to escape, -but Maldonado spurring his horse toward the unsuspecting bandit, pierced -him with his sword. Without delaying he then pushed on, followed by the -_hateros_, to the camp where the unfortunate lady was still a captive. -They found her surrounded by a train of red skin dames of honor, all of -whom were afterward distributed as servants among the families of their -conquerors. - -Nearly all the Indians of that tribe were destroyed on this occasion, -only a few escaping to the Big Forest, where they bewailed among the -monkeys and jaguars of those solitudes the loss of their favorite -chieftain. The ballad which commemorates the event, commences: - - “A Marcelino lo mataron - En el hato de Herradero, - Y los Indios lo lloraron - A su capitan vaquero.” - - Marcelino the bold was slain, - Slain at the farm of Herradero; - And the Indians lament in vain - Their loved sportsman, chieftain and hero. - -Maldonado, who at heart was a rogue of the same stamp as Marcelino, -having tasted of the independent roving life of the bandit, found it so -congenial that he concluded to follow the illustrious example of his -former leader and associate; but wanting in the principal traits which -had raised the latter to his exalted position, was speedily destroyed -and almost precisely in the same manner which he had devised for the -overthrow of the renowned Marcelino. Previous to this, however, -Maldonado, in imitation of his former chieftain, and availing himself of -the defenceless state of the town of Guasdualito, attempted to carry off -from thence la Villafañe, a lady celebrated for her beauty. With this -intent, he brought to her door a horse already saddled for her, and -commanded her to mount and follow him. This she indignantly refused to -do; but finding all entreaties and resistance of no avail, she seized -some poison from a drawer at hand, and with resolution worthy of a Roman -matron, placed it to her lips, exclaiming, as she did so, that she would -surely swallow it if he did not instantly quit her presence. The threat -proved successful; for the bandit, awed by her heroism, left her. - - * * * * * - -The business of the pampas required us to be up at the first peep of -dawn. A cup of coffee and milk, mixed with ground parched corn--which I -would recommend to all travellers on long journeys of this sort--served -us until breakfast time. I amused myself during the day sketching in -company with my friend, Mr. Thomas, while the men made their -preparations for a grand hunt among the cattle of the estate. The most -important of these arrangements was that of manufacturing from hides -sufficient lazos for the sport. There is a marked difference between the -skins of bullocks raised in the shady parts of the Llanos and those -roaming wild over the deserts of the Apure. Although the former are much -thicker, the lazos made from the hides of cattle constantly exposed to -the sun’s rays are infinitely stronger. The lazo is easily made. A fresh -hide, spread upon the ground with the hair downward, is neatly cut into -a long strap two inches wide. This is twisted into a tight thong and -stretched out to dry between two posts, after which it is well rubbed -with fat. When thoroughly dried, a loop is made at one end; through -this, when required for use, the thong is passed, forming the noose or -lazo proper, while the other end is firmly tied to the horse’s tail, -using its long hair for the purpose. In other parts of South America -they fasten the lazo to a ring in the saddle; but this arrangement, -besides causing too great strain upon the horse’s back, is fraught with -danger to the rider in case of a recoil from the thong if a break occur. -The thorough training which horses receive in the Llanos is invaluable -in such cases, as not only does the success of the chase depend on the -readiness with which he obeys his rider, but even after the game is -secured with the lazo, it is necessary that the horse should range -instantly on a line with the struggling victim; but unless this is -effected before the strain comes upon the lazo, the horse and his rider -are inevitably overthrown. The hunter, at the moment of using the lazo, -coils a portion of the thong, which he holds with his left hand, and -with the rest forms the running noose, which is repeatedly whirled -around his head to keep it open. When within reach of his mark, he aims -at the animal’s head and throws the noose in such a manner as to cause -a rapid uncoiling of the thong in his left hand. Some Llaneros are so -expert as to entangle at the same instant the feet and head of the -animal, on which he is quickly brought to the ground. - - * * * * * - -We were joined at El Frio by another party of cattle hunters, under the -leadership of an old acquaintance, Colonel Castejon, widely celebrated -in the Llanos for great bravery and skill in the pursuits of the -country. He came to help us in the hunt after wild cattle, and to help -himself to as many animals as he could drive home with his party. We -also had the honor of a visit from the Governor of the Province, Señor -Arciniega, a jovial, talkative, and well-informed functionary, and the -most accomplished marksman of the Apure. It was therefore proposed to -have a grand shooting match in the open field, and with this view we all -started one morning for a creek called Macanillal, about three miles -distant, intending to use the crocodiles, by far the most difficult -animal to shoot, as targets. On entering the woody banks of the creek, -we were agreeably surprised to discover on the soft mud evident proofs -that we had come in the right direction, not only for our anticipated -sport with the water monsters, but also that we were likely to have a -brush with even a more formidable antagonist--the jaguar. Footprints of -this splendid animal were so numerous, that we forgot for a time the -crocodiles and made diligent search for the nobler game. We had small -success, however, having no dogs with us to drive him from the jungle; -for, unless he has the advantage over his adversaries, the jaguar never -shows himself in the day-time. - -As we came in sight of the water, I was astonished at seeing its whole -surface bubbling as if in a state of effervescence, and at finding also -on nearer inspection that this was occasioned by the blowing close to -the water’s surface of millions of _coporos_. Other varieties of fish -were also so abundant, that we shot many near the shore, among them a -very fine catfish. - -The report of the guns brought to the surface numbers of crocodiles, -which we prepared to assail from the high bank of the creek. To our -honorable guest, the Governor, was conceded the privilege of shooting -the first, which he did with great accuracy, sending a ball directly -through one of the creature’s eyes. Still the shot did not kill him -instantly, as would have been the result with any other animal; and he -plunged through the creek for a time at a furious rate, lashing the -water with his powerful tail, and causing great commotion among the -finny multitude. The other crocodiles in lieu of being alarmed with the -uproar, were only rendered more inquisitive, dashing forward with -gleaming eyes and tusks, which so fascinated my friend the English -artist, as rather endangered his safety in his eagerness to get a -thorough view of the reptiles. Forgetting his proximity to the -precipice, he approached it so nearly as to miss his footing, and would -doubtless have rolled into one of the open jaws below him, but for the -prompt assistance of a companion, who caught him as he was in the act of -falling. - -From the same place where the first shot was fired, we succeeded in -killing or wounding not less than twenty crocodiles; but the banks being -high and precipitous, we could not secure the carcases. One of these, -which lay stranded on a sand bank across the creek, being characterized -by a singular hump on his back, which added to his already monstrous -size, I felt a great desire to examine more closely. To accomplish this, -it was necessary to ford the creek lower down, where I was assured the -water was sufficiently low to allow of walking over. The undertaking was -not, however, without considerable risk from the numerous sting-rays and -caribes. But my interest in all pertaining to Nature’s works helped me -over to the other side, whither I was accompanied by Roseliano, a youth -attached to my family, famed as a dare-devil. With his assistance I -dragged the crocodile partly out of water, and was examining the load -which nature had placed upon his back, when Roseliano perceived a -movement of one of his eyes, the other having been shattered by the -bullet; we supposed he had been by this time quite dead. My young -companion, who had expressed his suspicions that the crocodile was only -feigning death, wishing to ascertain the truth, proposed stabbing him in -the armpit with his dagger. Before permitting this, I insisted upon -securing the jaws by means of a large stake which we sharpened at one -end and plunged into his nostrils, and I then leaned upon it with the -whole weight of my body. This precaution saved my companion, but came -very near proving fatal to myself, as the instant the crocodile felt the -cold steel between his ribs he raised his enormous head, lifting me at -least a foot from the ground; but was prevented from injuring me by the -stake which he caught between his powerful tusks, shattering it to -splinters, and then retreated to the middle of the creek. His triumph -was, however, of short duration; for, the blood oozing in torrents from -his wounds, he quickly fell a prey to thousands of hungry caribes. - -Sir Robert Schombourgh relates an incident which occurred during his -ascent of the river Berbice, and which further demonstrates the tenacity -of life in the cayman. “One was fired at, floating, and the ball took -off the end of the snout; it received another immediately afterward in -the hinder part of the skull which appeared to have taken effect; still, -the Indians were not sparing in their blows, and when there was not much -likelihood of its possessing a spark of life, it was deposited on the -bow of one of the corials. While the corial was drawn across the rapids, -two of the Arawaaks got courage and took it up in order to lay it in a -more convenient place; they had just effected this, when at one bound it -jumped out into the river and disappeared. The Indians looked quite -stupefied, and never afterward could be persuaded to touch a cayman.” - -The creek of Macanillal is also famous for its many water-dogs, or -_perros de agua_ (Myopotamus coypos) and nutrias. The latter is a large -species of otter with a fine glossy fur. The former resembles a beaver -very closely, but has a round tail similar to that of the opossum. Both -animals live in the water, coming out occasionally to sun themselves on -the sand banks. In a hut near the scene of our last crocodile adventure -I saw a skin of the water-dog which measured five feet in length, -exclusive of the tail; but although I often made diligent search for -this singular amphibious animal, I never had an opportunity of making -his acquaintance. Like the otter he is extremely shy, and only the -practised eye of an Indian can trace him near the surface of the water -when he rises to breathe. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS. - - -The distant bellowing of bulls assembling their herds--sure sign that -the tiger was prowling near them--lulled us pleasantly to sleep in our -hammock-beds after the fatigues and labors of the day. Not unfrequently -we were treated to a serenading chorus of _araguatos_ or howling -monkeys, and to the hootings of the _titirijí_ or tiger-owl of the -pampas, whose peculiar cries might be readily mistaken, by an -unaccustomed ear, for the angry growl of that spotted bandit of the -forest--the jaguar. The neighboring woods were also the haunts of -several other species of owls and goat-suckers, whose dreary notes wake -mournful echoes by night and fill superstitious imaginations with -fearful and foreboding visions. - -The tiger-owl, which may be said to rank among the feathered tribe as -does the jaguar or American tiger among beasts, is nearly the size of a -domestic turkey. Like his powerful prototype, he is spotted with black, -and seldom makes himself heard excepting at night, when calling on his -mate; or during his nocturnal expeditions in the neighborhood of the -farmyard. He is then, not only a terror to the defenceless brood, but -also to the younger inmates of the house, who look upon him with a kind -of superstitious awe, on which account he sometimes escapes punishment. - -Less imposing in size than the preceding--although more terrifying in -their way--are the _ya-acabó_ and the _pavita_--two other species of owl -considered harbingers of calamity or death, when heard fluttering around -a house. The first portends an approaching death among the inmates, and -is therefore looked upon with dread even by men who would not flinch at -the sight of the most formidable bull or jaguar. Yet that appalling cry, -_ya acabó! ya acabó!_--it is finished! it is finished!--seems so fraught -with evil mystery, that few hear it unmoved. The only expedient resorted -to, in such cases, is to form a cross with hot ashes in front of the -house, which, it is believed, will drive away this ill-omened messenger. -The _pavita_--although not larger than a turtle-dove, is also considered -_pajaro de mal agüero_--a bird of ill-omen--being no less--they -say--than the departed spirit of some good-natured relative come to warn -his kindred against approaching calamity. In these cases, as it is -believed that nothing is so acceptable to the poor soul as a few Pater -Nosters and Ave Marias, they usually try to disembarrass themselves of -the unwelcome visitor by reciting aloud several of these prayers, after -crossing themselves twice with much devotion. Whenever this owl’s -dreaded cry is heard, it is certain to be followed by a scene of great -confusion and dismay: the children run to the women and hide behind -their skirts; the women seek protection from the men; while these -content themselves with muttering the holy invocation _Ave Maria -Purisima!_ which is ever with them the favorite talisman against danger. - -Great varieties of goat-suckers--not unlike huge butterflies fluttering -in the light evening breeze--also make their appearance at sundown, when -may be heard their singularly harsh notes closely resembling human -articulations. - -“The harmless, unoffending goat-sucker, from the time of Aristotle down -to the present day”--says Waterton in his “Wanderings”--“has been in -disgrace with man. Father has handed down to son, and author to author, -that this nocturnal thief subsists by milking the flocks. Poor injured -little bird of night! how sadly hast thou suffered, and how foul a stain -has inattention to facts put upon thy character! Thou hast never robbed -man of any part of his property, nor deprived the kid of a drop of -milk.” - -“When the moon shines bright, you may have a fair opportunity of -examining the goat-sucker. You will see it close by the cows, goats, and -sheep, jumping up every now and then, under their bellies. Approach a -little nearer--he is not shy, ‘he fears no danger for he knows no sin.’ -See how the nocturnal flies are tormenting the herd, and with what -dexterity he springs up and catches them as fast as they alight on the -belly, legs and udder of the animals. Observe how quiet they stand, and -how sensible they seem of his good offices, for they neither strike at -him, nor hit him with their tails, nor tread on him, nor try to drive -him away as an uncivil intruder. Were you to dissect him and inspect his -stomach, you would find no milk there. It is full of the flies which -have been annoying the herd. - -“The prettily mottled plumage of the goat-sucker, like that of the owl, -wants the lustre which is observed in the feathers of the birds of day. -This, at once, marks him as a lover of the pale moon’s nightly beams. -There are nine species here” (in Demerara). “The largest appears nearly -the size of the English wood-owl. Its cry is so remarkable, that having -once heard it, you will never forget it. When night reigns over these -immeasurable wilds, whilst lying in your hammock, you will hear this -goat-sucker lamenting like one in deep distress. A stranger would never -conceive it to be the cry of a bird. He would say it was the departing -voice of a midnight murdered victim, or the last wailing of Niobe for -her poor children, before she was turned into stone. Suppose yourself in -hopeless sorrow, begin with a high loud note, and pronounce, ‘ha, ha, -ha, ha, ha, ha, ha,’ each note lower and lower, till the last is -scarcely heard, pausing a moment or two betwixt every note, and you will -have some idea of the moaning of the largest goat-sucker in Demerara. - -“Four other species of the goat-sucker articulate some words so -distinctly, that they have received their names from the sentences they -utter, and absolutely bewilder the stranger on his arrival at these -parts. The most common one sits down close by your door, and flies and -alights three or four yards before you, as you walk along the road, -crying, ‘Who are you, who, who, who are you?’ Another bids you, ‘Work -away, work, work, work away.’ A third cries mournfully, ‘Willy, come go, -Willy, Willy, Willy come go.’ And high up the country a fourth tells you -‘Whip poor Will, whip, whip, whip poor Will.’”[27] - -There is a bird, however, among these nocturnal serenaders which -impresses you with very different feelings from those produced by the -owl species: this is the _Gallineta de monte_ or forest-hen, a most -beautiful creature both in color and in shape, and not unlike a -water-hen in general appearance: the eyes especially are peculiarly -pretty, being of a brilliant ruby color and scintillate like fire. These -birds sing in concert, and their song--a lively chatter--has a mystic -fascination I am unable to describe. They are also considered delicate -eating; but unfortunately are very difficult to catch, for even after -being shot, unless wounded in the leg, they can outstrip the swiftest -hound, although their wings, being very small, avail them little. -Nature, however, has provided them with long yellow legs for the -purpose. - -The ponds and lagoons of the savannas are literally crowded with other -individuals of the feathered tribe, whose lively notes and incessant -chatterings contribute likewise to enliven the night. The most -conspicuous among them are various species of teal-ducks, such as -_güires_ and _yaguasos_, and a long-legged plover--_alcaravan_.--This -last has the peculiarity of uttering a long, shrill sound at hourly -intervals, thus marking every hour of the night after the manner of a -clock’s alarum. It is easily domesticated in the houses, where it -renders some service, not only by marking time, but also by giving -warning of the approach of strangers. - -The _aruco_ is another bird of large size, whose drum-like notes are -often heard in the stillness of night. In size and plumage it greatly -resembles a turkey; but its flesh is so spongy, that in lifting one of -these uncouth birds from the ground, it appears like a mere bundle of -feathers. The wings of the male are provided with a pair of sharp spurs, -with which, when fighting, they greatly injure one another. - -Another feature of the cattle-farm is the great number of carrion -vultures and other birds of prey constantly hovering around the houses -and corrals, attracted thither by the carcasses of dead animals. The -most conspicuous among them is the _zamuro_ or _gallinazo_, (Cathartes -Atratus,) that constant companion of rude civilization in all tropical -countries, but an indolent, greedy and disgusting associate. As, -however, they occasionally render service in the capacity of scavengers, -they are generally tolerated among the fowl of the farmyard. It is a -gregarious bird, and collects in large flocks on the roof and fences, -where, with knowing glances, they seem to be scanning all the actions of -the inmates. I often amused myself in threatening them with a missile of -some sort; but they never appeared to notice it, until they perceived me -to be in earnest: then with wings half spread and leaning forward, they -watched intently the moment when I should hurl it at them to evade it by -flight or a dodge of the head.--They build their nests in holes which -they dig in the ground. Their young are white, gradually changing to -black as they grow older, and only two are raised by the parent every -year. Although essentially carrion feeders, the olfactories of these -birds are not so sensitive as to discover for them a dead animal--as -many suppose;--but their sight is very good. They fly to immense -heights, and thence examine every portion of the ground below them. In -doing this they may often be observed on motionless wing, whirling round -and round in graceful evolutions. - -With the _zamuro_ is often associated another carrion vulture, the -_oripopo_ or turkey-buzzard, (Vultur aura,) of the same size and with -similar habits to the former. It differs however, from its relative in -color--which is dark brown--and in having its neck more destitute of -feathers. It is also more elegant in form and in its graceful evolutions -through the air than the black vulture. The turkey-buzzard has a wide -geographical range, having been met by Audubon as far north as -Pennsylvania, and by Darwin in the arid plains of Patagonia and Tierra -del Fuego. When soaring through the upper regions of the air, it can be -at once recognized by its long, sweeping flight, accompanied by a -buzzing sound, much like the gust of the whirlwind, and perfectly -audible from a great distance. - -The _Rey-Zamuro_ or king of the vultures, (Vultur papa,) larger than the -foregoing, is the most beautiful of its kind. Its plumage, resembling -down in softness and fineness, is of a pearly white, excepting the -wings, which are tipped with black. The breast and neck, although -entirely bare of feathers, are decked in the most brilliant tint of -blue, orange, and red, while a sort of membranous excrescence crowns -the head, giving it a truly royal appearance. - -This King of the vultures has also very aristocratic habits, never -associating with any, not even those of his own tribe. It is a -remarkable fact that when he alights upon a carcass, amidst a flock of -other vultures, all these last retire, or make a circle round the -banquet. When his majesty has dined, he flies off, uttering a loud cry, -and only then his subjects venture to approach the carrion. - -There is in the more elevated part of the adjoining province of Barinas, -another bird of the same class--Vultur barbatus--which partakes of the -eagle and the vulture, but is larger than either. It is called in -consequence _gavilucho_--eagle-hawk--and has been seen at times -descending toward the plains. The legs and wings are very long and -powerful. It is said to be very handsome, but it is extremely shy of -man. The plumage is bluish, red, white and yellow. This bird joins to -the boldness and cruelty of the eagle, the loathsome voracity of the -vultures. It prefers live flesh, especially that of small quadrupeds, -and preys principally upon rabbits, goats, sheep and even young calves. -It raises only one brood in a season, and builds its nest amidst the -most inaccessible ledges of the Cordilleras. - -I will close the list of the carrion birds of Venezuela with enumerating -two others, nearly allied to the hawk, but partaking also of the -characteristics of the eagle. These are the _caricari_ and _chiriguare_ -(Polyborus Brasiliensis and P. Chimango) corresponding to the -_caracaras_ and _carrancha_ of Brazil and Buenos Ayres, concerning -which Darwin has given this graphic account: - -“The _caracaras_ are from their structure placed among the eagles: we -shall soon see how ill they become so high a rank. In their habits they -will supply the place of our carrion crows, magpies and ravens, a tribe -of birds widely distributed over the rest of the world, but entirely -absent in South America. - -“The carranchas, together with the chimango, constantly attend in -numbers the estancias and slaughtering-houses. If an animal dies on the -plain, the gallinazo commences the feast, and then the two species of -Polyborus pick the bones clean. These birds, although thus commonly -feeding together, are far from being friendly. When the carrancha is -quietly seated on the branch of a tree or on the ground, the chimango -often continues for a long time flying backward and forward, up and -down, in a semicircle, trying each time at the bottom of the curve to -strike its larger relative. Although the carranchas frequently assemble -in numbers, they are not gregarious; for in desert places they may be -seen solitary, or more commonly in pairs. - -“The carranchas are said to be very crafty, and to steal great numbers -of eggs. They attempt, also, together with the chimango, to pick off the -scabs from the sore backs of horses and mules. The poor animal, on the -one hand, with its ears down and its back arched, and, on the other -hand, the hovering bird, eyeing at the distance of a yard the disgusting -morsel, form a picture, which has been described by Captain Head with -his own peculiar spirit and accuracy. These false eagles rarely kill -any living bird or animal; and their vulture-like, necrophagous habits -are very evident to any one who has fallen asleep on the desolate plains -of Patagonia, for when he wakes he will see, on each surrounding -hillock, one of these birds patiently watching him with an evil eye; it -is a feature in the landscape of these countries, which will be -recognized by every one who has wandered over them. If a party of men go -out hunting with dogs and horses, they will be accompanied during the -day by several of these attendants. After feeding, the uncovered craw -protrudes; at such times, and indeed, generally, the carrancha is an -inactive, tame, and cowardly bird. Its flight is heavy and slow, like -that of an English rook. It seldom soars; but I have twice seen one at a -great height gliding through the air with great ease. It runs, (in -contradistinction to hopping,) but not quite so quickly as some of its -congeners. At times the carrancha is noisy, but is not generally so; its -cry is loud, very harsh and peculiar, and may be likened to the sound of -the Spanish guttural _g_, followed by a rough double _r r_; when -uttering this cry, it elevates its head higher and higher, till at last, -with its beak wide open, the crown almost touches the lower part of the -head. This fact, which has been doubted, is quite true.” - -These birds are, however, a great blessing to the inhabitants of the -Llanos, who are indebted to them, not only for the destruction of vast -numbers of snakes and other reptiles, but for the service they render -conjointly with the vultures in consuming the offal near houses. They -seek their food both in dry lands and amidst the swampy borders of -rivers; on the one they find serpents and lizards in abundance; in the -other terrapins, frogs and small crocodiles. They are peculiar in always -killing their prey before commencing to devour it. If the _caricari_ -meet with a serpent or young crocodile large enough to oppose a long -resistance, he approaches it sideways, shielded by one of his wings -spread out, and striking his prey near the head with his bill, retires -to a short distance to watch the result. A second blow is usually fatal, -upon which, seizing his victim in his claws, he tears it with his bill. -The sluggish tortoises and terrapins are easy prey for the _caricari_; -these he renders helpless by turning them upon their backs, then with -his powerful bill tears out the entrails. - -Singing birds are of great numbers and varieties in the Llanos; these -are mostly of the oriole species, all of which seem to delight in the -vicinity of man. They usually select some tree near the house, and from -its slender topmost branches, weave their hanging nests beyond reach of -mischievous boys and monkeys. One of these songsters, the _gonzal_, had -his nest close by the ropes of my hammock, where every morning before -sunrise he awakened me by his sweetly plaintive notes; and so fascinated -was I by this charming neighbor, that I always remained long after the -reveille, listening to his delicious music. - -There is another closely allied species, far superior to this or any -other bird of the kind with which I am acquainted. It is the troupial, -whose powerful notes can only be likened to strains of the violin. It is -easily domesticated in houses, and learns readily any air from hearing -it whistled. I have one of these birds at home (in New York) which sings -the Cachuca, Yankee Doodle, and various other tunes, besides distinctly -whistling the name of a person. Its predominant colors are rich orange -and shining black, with white spots on the wings and bill in beautiful -contrast. It is a dangerous pet, however, if at large in a house, -attacking strangers furiously, and always aiming at the eyes. - -The _arrendajo_, or mocking-oriole, is perhaps the most extraordinary of -its kind, on account of its imitative proclivities, mimicking every -sound with such exactness, that he goes by the name of mocking-bird -among the colonists of Demerara; according to Waterton, “His own song is -sweet, but very short. If a toucan be yelping in the neighborhood, he -drops it, and imitates him. Then he will amuse his protector with the -cries of the different species of woodpecker, and when the sheep bleat -he will distinctly answer them. Then comes his own song again; and if a -puppy dog or a guinea fowl interrupt him, he takes them off admirably, -and by his different gestures during the time, you would conclude that -he enjoys the sport.” - -The arrendajo is, besides, a beautiful bird, and considered by -ornithologists a model of symmetry; his predominant color is a glossy -black, with the exception of his belly, rump and half the tail, which -are of a bright yellow. On each wing also he has a spot of the same -color. His beak is tinged of a delicate shade of lemon, while his eyes -are sky blue, the pupil being a deeper shade of the same. - -[Illustration: THE RODEO.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -THE RODEO. - - -We had long been impatiently awaiting the command for a general turnout -and chase among the legions of wild cattle grazing in the far horizon; -and when at length the day was appointed for a _rodeo_ or grand hunt, -the universal gratification was boundless. - -It is customary in all large cattle farms to assemble from time to time -the cattle of certain districts for the purpose of selecting those which -require branding and marking, and also to allow the neighboring farmers -to separate from the herds many stray animals belonging to them, which, -from the open nature of the plains, it is impossible to keep within the -boundaries of their own savannas. This operation cannot be accomplished -without a great number of able and expert riders, who, on a given day, -surround a large area of country and drive toward one centre all the -cattle that may be found within the selected space. An extended circle -or ring is thus formed, enclosing a great horde of wild animals; these -are kept in check by the well-concerted evolutions of the _vaqueros_ -until the appointed rendezvous is reached, where, after allowing the -cattle to cool down, the different brands are selected; hence the name -of _rodeo_, from _rodear_, to surround. - -The object on this occasion was not only to separate all the calves that -required branding, but also to collect a large drove of oxen, so as to -furnish our extensive potreros of San Pablo de Paya with marketable -beeves. - -Our first foray against the horned tenants of the wilderness would thus -assume an importance seldom witnessed in that retired corner of the -republic; as also in addition to our own force, we counted upon the -assistance of the vaqueros from the neighboring cattle farms of -Caucagua, La Yagua, and others bordering these savannas. Due notice was -accordingly sent to the respective owners of those estates to muster on -a certain day all their forces upon the field. - -The area selected for the hunt embraced at least fifteen miles _à la -ronde_. The hunters, in squads of six or eight, proceeded on the -afternoon of the day before the hunt to their stations at various points -of the savanna, having instructions to start at early dawn for the -appointed centre. We of the staff made a simultaneous move from the -house, driving before us, without distinction, all the animals we -encountered on the route. The cattle being so unexpectedly roused from -their slumbers, naturally endeavored to fly from their pursuers. Soon, -however, meeting those from opposite directions, they whirled in mad -despair, vainly endeavoring to break through the extended line of -horsemen, who were constantly galloping about the struggling mass with -shouts and thrusts from their steel-pointed _garrochas_. - -At the commencement it was a truly interesting sight to watch the many -groups of cattle, deer, wild boars, dogs, foxes, and other wild -quadrupeds coming in from all directions as if impelled by one common -instinct; but no sooner did that living ring commence closing upon them, -than, scared by the confusion and uproar of the scene, their terror -quickly grew to frenzy, and they ran from side to side bellowing, -grunting, howling as they went. Solely intent upon the danger that -menaced them, the mother forgot her offspring, and listened no more to -their painful lamentations; the lover abandoned his beloved, seeking -only his own safety in disgraceful flight; and even the fierce bull, -forgetting for a moment that he is sovereign of those realms, lost his -natural spirit of brave defiance, and rushed blindly off in the train of -the frightened multitude. As if to increase the grandeur of the -spectacle, a _garzero_, which had established itself on the borders of a -creek hard by, also caught the alarm, and at our approach flew up in the -air with a tremendous crashing of wing and bill, leaving their young to -care for themselves, and with their discordant and piercing cries to -swell the uproar of the scene. It is impossible to convey an adequate -idea of this vast multitude of frightened cranes and herons of all sorts -which fluttered overhead at that moment; so great was their number that -they spread over an extent of several miles, and actually for a time -cast a deep shadow over the landscape. - -Not less than eight or ten thousand head of cattle were brought within -the ring formed of more than a hundred horsemen, who, in preventing the -escape of the animals, were compelled to expose themselves and their -noble steeds to the vindictiveness of the bulls, which were constantly -rushing upon the lines in their endeavors to regain the open prairie. -Whenever this was attempted, a horseman galloped boldly upon the -fugitive, and by interposing himself between the open field and the -bull, forced the latter back to the herd. Wonderfully adroit were the -herdsmen in their avoidance of the repeated strokes aimed at them by the -bulls, even when it appeared impossible to escape being caught between -the animal’s horns. The _garrocha_ played an important part in repelling -these attacks. This instrument, only second in importance to the lazo -when in the hands of expert riders, is made of the slender, yet tough -stem, of the _alvarico_ palm, (ænocarpus cubarro,) by merely sharpening -the top end to a point, or surmounting it with an iron head, around -which a number of loose rings of the same metal are affixed; these, when -shaken close to the animal’s ear, frighten him off with the rattling -sound they produce. The shaft of the goad is fully ten feet long, and -although not thicker than a walking-stick, can bear an immense amount of -pressure without breaking. As a weapon of aggression, this slender palm -stem has become justly celebrated throughout the country, from the fact -of having supplied the primitive bands of patriots who first dared to -oppose the tyrannical rule of Spain with ready-made lances in the -wilderness. The manner in which Llaneros make use of the garrocha is -quite extraordinary. When in pursuit of a bull which they purpose -turning back to the _rodeo_, if the animal be swifter than the horse, -the rider always manages to reach him with the point of his spear. This -he thrusts into the bull’s hide, just above the shoulder-blade, and then -leans forward and rests the whole weight of his body upon the shaft, -assisted in it by his intelligent charger. The equilibrium of the bull -is thus usually destroyed, and he rolls headlong upon the ground. These -falls are often sufficient to prevent further attempts at escape, in -which case the bull is easily led into the _rodeo_. This performance, -however, is one of the most dangerous practised among Llaneros, and is -undertaken only by the most skilful and experienced riders, as, should -the spear glance off while the hunter is leaning upon it, or should he -happen to overturn the bull in front of his horse, he will in either -case receive a terrific fall, and in the latter event, probably come -into collision with the fallen animal. - -From the midst, and above all the heads of that tumultuous assemblage of -wild animals, rose the shaggy frontlet of a black bull, whose martial -air and fearless step seemed to proclaim him the patriarch of the herd. -An experienced Llanero, intently watching all his movements from afar, -observed to those near him, that they would soon have fresh sport; and -that “if any one prized the skin of his horse, he would do well to look -to his spurs;” meaning that the black bull evidently intended mischief. -Mr. Thomas, who was busily sketching the novel scene before him, -unaccustomed to the jargon of the Llanos, did not understand this -remark, and therefore quietly continued his occupation. The next moment -the bull was in our midst, charging first upon Captain Valor, one of the -best riders on the field, who, in spite of his name, hastily spurred his -steed out of reach; but the bull still pursuing, charged again and again -upon him, and doubtless the last attempt would have been fatal to either -horse or cavalier, had not the bull been checked in his final onset by -accidentally plunging one of his legs into the hole of an armadillo, -which fortunate circumstance gave the captain time to distance his -pursuer. The bull next sought to vent his rage on the incautious artist, -who, one leg crossed over the neck of his horse as support for his -sketch-book, sat evidently absorbed in contemplation of the powerful and -daring brute, with whose ferocious nature he was totally unacquainted. -Having never before attended sports of the kind, my friend paid little -regard to the menacing attitude of the animal, who rushed upon him with -a fearful bellow that made us tremble for his fate. But for some -unaccountable reason, the bull after one or two ineffectual attempts to -strike his intended victim, wheeled about and disappeared among the -tangled jungle bordering the creek, apparently indignant at the -nonchalance with which John Bull received the advances of his namesake. -Fearing the recurrence of similar attacks, which might have a less -fortunate termination, it was decided to disembarrass ourselves of so -uncomfortable a neighbor; with this object, the requisite number of -horsemen provided with lazos were sent to capture and subdue him. -Instead of seeking safety in precipitate flight, as is generally the -case with wild bulls, this one unflinchingly stood his ground, and -neither shouts nor menaces could induce him to abandon the threatening -attitude he had assumed. It was indeed a splendid sight to behold that -proud monarch of the horned tribe bidding defiance to all about him, his -huge and shaggy head, surmounted by a pair of pointed, powerful horns, -high in air, and with an expression of countenance that was almost -diabolical. His savage upper lip looked as if curled in contempt of his -antagonists, and his eyes gleamed with fury in the light of the morning -sun. Occasionally with his fore feet he ploughed up the earth, which, -falling in showers upon him, he swept from his sides with his tail, -uttering all the while a sort of suppressed roar resembling distant -thunder. Then came the furious charge, when every one was compelled to -run for his life, as nothing could arrest his headlong course. Blinded -with rage, he spared not even those of his own species, killing two -heifers instantly, and wounding a bull so severely that he died shortly -afterward. Each time the men whirled the lazo to throw it over his head, -he dashed forward with such rapidity as to disconcert their aim, until, -finally, a bold and agile sambo, Sarmiento by name, who acted as -caporal, and of whom we shall say more hereafter, dismounting from his -horse and seizing the red blanket from his saddle, prepared to face the -bull without the encumbrance of the lazo. His intention was to bewilder -or _torear_ him by a succession of such feats of agility as are usually -practised by matadors in bull fights; and so successful was he, that in -one of the animal’s furious charges, he succeeded in grasping and -holding his tail; and in spite of the efforts the bull made to strike -him with his horns, Sarmiento followed his movements so closely, that by -a dexterous twist of the tail he succeeded in overthrowing the brute -upon his side; he then drew the tail between the hind legs, and as this -completely deprives the animal of all power of rising, he was enabled to -hold him until others came to his assistance. Then, to prevent further -mischief, the men proceeded to saw off the tops of his horns and to -perform upon him other usual operations. These precautions, however, -proved quite unnecessary, as the bull, exhausted by rage and loss of -blood, shortly afterward dropped upon the ground and expired. - -In spite of the vigilance and constant efforts of the men to keep the -animals within the _rodeo_, several other bulls managed to break through -the ranks. The only method of bringing them back was by using the -all-potent lazo, and two men, one of them thus equipped, were despatched -after the fugitive, which on being noosed, was by the second man -speedily thrown upon his side by means of that dangerous appendage, the -tail, in the management of which the Llaneros of Venezuela are so -famous. This accomplished, they pierced the thick cartilage which -divides the nostrils with the point of a dagger; one end of the thong -was then passed through the wound, while the other remained fastened to -the horse’s tail; the Llanero, then mounting his steed, jerked the end -attached to the bull, which brought the prostrate beast at once to his -feet, when he was marched off to his destination without further -trouble, literally led by the nose. - -Another method of arresting a bull in his flight, is by a bold -manœuvre termed _colear_, and which consists, as already stated, in -availing themselves of the animal’s tail to overthrow him when at full -speed; but that is not easy of accomplishment, as the bull has then such -entire freedom of movement. The horse also must be perfectly well -trained to these hazardous undertakings, and should obey instantly the -slightest pull of the bit; for if the bull turns suddenly upon his -pursuer, the chances are ten to one that the horse will be severely -wounded. The rider first gallops close to the rear of the bull, and -seizing his tail with one hand, gives it a turn or two around his wrist -to prevent its slipping. When thus prepared, he urges his horse forward, -until the heads of the two animals are on a “dead-heat;” then quickly -turning in an oblique direction, and exerting all his strength, he pulls -the bull toward him, and does not relinquish his hold until he perceives -that the enemy is tottering, when he is easily overthrown from the great -impetus imparted by their rapid pace. Some men are so dexterous that -they can colear with both hands at the same time; which necessarily -gives greater power over the bull, enabling the rider to bring him down -much more readily. The horse, in this case, left to his own well-taught -guidance, assists the manœuvres of his rider, pushing forward at the -instant he perceives that his master is prepared for the pull, and -turning about also at the right moment. How wonderful the instinct of -these noble creatures! that teaches them so readily the importance of -the slightest movement, on which often depends, not only the success of -the enterprise, but their own safety, as well as that of their masters. -If too powerful resistance is offered at the outset by the bull, as is -sometimes the case, the rider still clings to the tail of his adversary, -and throwing himself off his horse while at full speed, the impetus -combined with his weight and strength never fail in bringing the bull -like a fallen giant to the ground; then the man quickly drawing the tail -between the hind legs, awaits the arrival of his companions to assist in -securing the prize. - -It was often matter of surprise to me in what manner the Llaneros, -notwithstanding the thorough training of the horses, contrived their -speedy approach to the rear of the bulls, as these were usually -considerably ahead at the start. On one occasion, I was regretting that -my pony was too small to keep pace with the hunters, when one of the -men, who was mounted on a prototype of Rosinante--on which, -nevertheless, he had performed prodigies of strength--turned to me and -said, “_Vaya, niño_, let me show you that this is not the fault of the -horse, but that of the rider;” whereupon we exchanged horses, and off he -went after a powerful bull just escaped. Not many minutes elapsed before -I lost sight of horse and rider in a cloud of dust raised by the beast -in its fall. - -Some hours elapsed before the tremendous excitement and confusion of the -wild melée described above had sufficiently subsided to render the forms -of men and cattle visible through the clouds of dust and ashes raised -by the trampling of so many animals. The grass, at this period parched -by the sun and reduced to ashes in various places by the usual -conflagrations, mingled with the dust and rose in dense columns, which -from afar might have been mistaken for the dreaded monsoon. - -In the mean while the distracted mothers ran from side to side, lowing -piteously for their missing young. Here and there fierce duellos among -rival bulls took place for the possession of some shaggy one of the -softer sex. Butting their huge fronts together, and goring each other -with their sharp-pointed horns, they fought with the courage and skill -of accomplished gladiators, tearing up the earth in wild fury, and -filling the air with their deep, savage bellowings. A crowd of admirers -from amidst the herd formed a circle around the combatants, and if any -from among their number evinced the least disposition to interfere, he -was immediately chased away by the others, so that there might be fair -play while the fight lasted. Often these encounters proved fatal to one -of the belligerents, as neither will yield the palm without a desperate -resistance. - -The bellowing of thousands of animals, with the yells and deafening -shouts of the men galloping about the plain, waving their ponchos and -rattling their _garrochas_, combined to give the scene more the -appearance of a fiendish melodrama, than a purely pastoral assemblage of -men and cattle. - -The confusion having at length subsided, four of the ablest horsemen, -penetrating the living mass, which, as they advanced, surged on either -side like the waves of the sea, commenced the difficult task of -separating the animals intended for the brand, and those belonging to -our neighbors. This occasioned another series of evolutions, which only -men trained to such exercises could have accomplished successfully. - -It is usual in all cattle-farms to cut a notch or two in the animal’s -ear at the time they are branded, for the purpose of recognizing them -more readily from a distance, a precaution which is particularly -serviceable on occasions like that just described, it being impossible -to read the brand when the creatures are crowded into a herd. Although -most of the calves had not the notch, they belong by right to the owner -of the mother, even if they are found on the lands of another party. Of -it the vaqueros availed themselves in their subsequent apportioning of -the different lots of cattle. This they accomplished in the most -expeditious manner by riding boldly at the animals in question, -hastening or checking their progress through the herd as the case -required. Thus by repeated evolutions of the sort, they finally brought -the animals to the edge of the ring, where an opening was purposely left -for their escape, and then the nearest horseman drove them in among a -small body of tame cattle stationed a short distance from the _rodeo_. -These violent manœuvrings could not be accomplished, however, without -endangering at every step the security of the entire herd. Each time the -drivers turned out an animal the whole mass was thrown into the utmost -confusion, and it required the most consummate skill on the part of the -men to prevent the entire dispersion of the cattle. The fearlessness -with which the drivers plunged into that labyrinth of savage, panting -brutes, advancing close upon the wall of bristling horns which barred -their progress, and boldly driving the infuriated creatures before them -like a pack of sheep, was truly worthy of admiration. The readiness with -which they detected at a distance the mark on the animal’s ears was also -no less noticeable, singling out such at a glance, and immediately -driving them away to their respective groups. When all the brands had -thus been apportioned, each owner proceeded to drive away his own herd. -We found in these cases--as indeed in all similar ones--the assistance -of _madrineros_ or trained oxen, of great service in driving a large -body of cattle across the plains. A dozen of these oxen were sufficient -to lead a vast drove, stopping or advancing at a signal from the -overseer, while the vaqueros kept close watch on rear and flank to -prevent escape and to urge on the cattle, especially the crowd of stray -calves--some of them only a few hours old--which, like a procession of -lost children, kept up a continual bewailing for their mothers as if the -last ray of hope had departed from them. Although their case was indeed -a hard one, and the task of driving them over the rough ground still -harder, we were unwilling to leave them behind, hoping to find their -mammas among the multitude before us. When within a short distance from -the house, we halted to make preparations for the enclosure of the -herds. But one of the most dangerous parts of the proceedings yet -remained, that of forcing the cattle into the corrals. - -The entrance to the _majada_--shaped like a great funnel--was, like the -rest of the fences, made of very strong posts, driven into the ground -and barred across at intervals with thick rafters of bamboo. Through -this funnel, or _manga_, the cattle in small lots were driven at full -speed headed by the _madrineros_--those treacherous guides trained to -ensnare their kindred--while the horsemen barricaded the mouth of the -funnel with the breasts of the poor horses. Every thing proceeded -satisfactorily as far as the end of the funnel, the _madrineros_, with -all the cunning of semi-civilized brutes, redoubling their pace at the -moment of entering the great enclosure. Then their wild brethren, -perceiving the treachery, turned upon their captors, and a most fearful -struggle ensued. The bulls, in spite of the deafening shouts of the men, -and the formidable array of _garrochas_ levelled at their heads, -endeavored to force their way back to the open plain, and many of them -actually succeeded in breaking through the barricade of horses. Thus -many noble steeds, which until then had escaped unhurt, met with an -inglorious death. That most of the men escaped unhurt, appeared little -less than miraculous, as not only were they also exposed at every moment -to the vindictive attacks of the bulls, but it often happened that some -of them were unhorsed, when they were in imminent danger of being -trampled by the retreating foe. The superior skill and intrepidity of -man, however, triumphed at length over mere brute resistance, and the -whole herd was in a short time securely quartered in the _majada_. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -BRANDING SCENES. - - “Entre tanto en ancha hoguera - Como encendido tizon, - Ya la marca centellea - Con chispas de azul punzó.” - VENTURA DE LA VEGA. - - -It was late in the evening when we partook of our only meal that day, -and we afterward retired to rest, but not to sleep, owing to the -incessant noise made by the cattle in the corrals, who, during the whole -night, were rushing to and fro as if goaded by demons. Sometimes we -feared that the fences would give way before their mad onset, while the -dust rose in suffocating clouds, filling the atmosphere and mingling -with our food, which was thus rendered almost unfit for use. The -bellowing, roaring, and moaning of the herd could only be likened to the -wild confusion of a battle-field. Many of the savage bulls in their fury -turned their horns, sharp as bayonets, against their own kindred. The -proud padrote, his dusky mate, and the tender heifer shared alike in the -slaughter. The next day numbers lay gored to death in the dust of the -corrals, while others presented ghastly wounds. Soon the carcasses began -to putrefy, which, added to the particles of dust floating through the -air we breathed, rendered the atmosphere intolerable. Many more of the -cattle died of suffocation, and others from an infectious disease -induced by the crowded state of the herd and the noxious exhalations -from the carcasses. We therefore lost no time in branding them that they -might be set free, lest the infection should extend to the whole herd. - -Animals affected in this manner exhibit no symptoms of the disease until -immediately prior to their demise, when they are observed to stagger a -few paces and drop suddenly, as if shot by a rifle ball; and yet the -vultures seem to possess an intuitive knowledge of this approaching -dissolution, in proof whereof, numbers of these feathery satellites of -death can be seen hovering around an animal which the scourge has -doomed, although it is apparently still in perfect health. The -infection, fortunately, is confined to the horned cattle, no instance of -its transmission to other creatures occurring, except in the case of men -venturing to skin the carcasses, when it assumes a different form. -Persons who have thus exposed themselves are seized with a horrible -swelling of the neck, commencing with a pimple not larger than a pin’s -head, and gradually increasing in size until it extends to the -cerebellum. Death is the inevitable result if the patient is not -promptly attended by a skilful physician. There were two or three cases -of the kind among our own people, but by careful treatment we were -fortunate enough to save them. There are, however, every year many poor -fellows in that improvident region, who, not having the same advantages, -are often carried away by the distemper. - -The branding of cattle, as conducted in extensive establishments, is a -real festival for the sport-loving people of the Llanos; and each one -feels himself as deeply interested therein as though assisting at a -grand bull fight--the time-honored amusement of the descendants of -Pelayo, the Cid, and other worthies of like celebrity; and indeed the -former, or _hierra_, as that wild pageant is termed, with all its -incidents and dangers, all its noise and bustle, is perhaps the grandest -spectacle of the kind that could be devised for the entertainment and -training of that chivalric race. It is undoubtedly one of the wildest -scenes ever beheld in the pampas, and one which afforded me exceeding -pleasure from the variety of incident accompanying it. The majada is, in -fact, the school in which from infancy the Llanero is trained to conquer -or to die in daily struggles with the brute creation. It is a veritable -Olympic Circus, where the agility and strength for which he is famed are -displayed during the exciting operations performed upon the savage -denizens of the savannas, branding and marking the calves, sawing off -the horns of furious bulls and converting them into oxen for the -improvement of their flesh and disposition. - -On the day appointed, all animals confined in the _majada_ are driven -into the _corralejas_ or smaller corrals adjoining the great enclosure, -and there packed as closely as possible to prevent the bulls, always -ready to strike, from doing much mischief among their own kindred. -Meantime the men prepare their lazos and station themselves according to -their respective strength and ability, while the boys kindle a blazing -fire in a safe corner of the _majada_, in which the various brands to be -used are kept at a red heat. These brands generally represent the -initials of the owner, or some sort of hieroglyphic stamp affixed to the -end of a long handle. A record of these is kept by the Justice of the -Peace in each district; and it is considered a great crime to alter or -in any unauthorized manner efface their impression from the skin of -animals. The cattle are usually branded on the haunches; but whenever a -horse, mule, or mare is sold, the brand in a reversed position is again -affixed, this time on its shoulder, followed by the buyer’s brand, the -same operation being repeated whenever the animal changes hands, so that -some poor beasts come at last to be quite disfigured with deep scars. - -When all is ready for the fray, the majordomo, climbing to the highest -post of the enclosure, from whence he directs operations, gives the -signal. Here he keeps an account of the calves branded, by notching a -long strip of raw hide. A number of these strips, called _tarja_ or -tally, are carefully preserved in every cattle farm as a record to be -laid before the owner at the year’s end in lieu of balance-sheet. - -The principal business of the day being that of branding the calves -collected at the _rodeo_, two or three men armed with lazos, fearlessly -enter the pens at peril of life and limb--for the mothers are ever ready -to defend their young--and proceed to drag the calves out singly by -means of the lazo, though not without many obstinate struggles on their -part, and the more formidable resistance of their parents, which are -kept back at the point of the _garrocha_ by men stationed on the fences. -The contest, however, is not of very long duration; the calf nearly -choked by the lazo, and tormented by a cruel twisting of his tail, -springs forward toward the branding place. The moment he passes the -threshold, one or two little imps pounce upon the tail, jerking it until -they succeed in throwing him down; the lazo is then quickly removed, and -the captor hurries back to the pen for another calf. When a number have -been thus secured, a man goes round with the brand, and in a very short -time the whole lot are stamped with the burning seal of the estate -amidst the piteous bellowings and ineffectual kicks of the helpless -creatures. - -These operations, although performed on young animals, are not so easily -accomplished as might be supposed; it being not unusual for full-grown -ones to spring over the fences, or force their way through the narrow -gate of their pen. At such times, the operators outside are in imminent -danger of being assailed by the fugitives, if the latter are not -promptly secured by men stationed for the purpose at the gate of the -_corralejas_. It becomes a much more serious business when a powerful -bull is lazoed. He not only refuses obstinately to be dragged out like a -calf, but requires the combined force and skill of all the men to compel -him from the pen, although the gate is purposely left wide open. In such -cases a picador, climbing to the top of the fence, endeavors to drive -out the animal by repeated thrusts of the goad; that also failing, -another lets himself down close to the bull’s tail, which he twists -violently, and this seldom fails to drive the refractory creature madly -out, followed by the shouts and huzzas of his cruel tormentors. The next -proceeding is to throw him for the purpose of regaining the lazo, and -for the performance of the above-mentioned operations. This, however, is -no easy matter, from the frantic plunges of the bull, who has the entire -range of the lazo. The only certain method is that of dragging him close -upon a post--_botalon_--driven into the ground, where his overthrow is -finally accomplished by the united efforts of several men, one grappling -his hind legs, another seizing the tail, while two others keep a steady -hold of the thong, until the animal, at last exhausted, drops heavily to -the ground. - -To justly appreciate scenes like these, one must himself behold the -dusky athlete battling single-handed with a bull just escaping from the -corral. Seizing him by a horn with one hand, the Llanero still holding -it watches his opportunity until he can grasp with the other the -animal’s tail. The bull is then allowed to run as fast as he will, as -the greater his speed the more easily his downfall is accomplished. If -the bull moves too slowly, a few impressive jerks generally accelerate -his speed; but occasionally he returns the compliment by turning -fiercely upon his tail-bearer, who, if not very nimble, risks being -gored to death; yet his skilful antagonist, not only usually succeeds in -evading his attack, but speedily contrives to throw him. No sooner does -this occur, than the vanquished one is surrounded by a host of merry -yelling vagabonds, one brandishing a huge knife, which he sharpens on -the horns previous to performing the operation which transforms the -animal into an ox, and if not previously marked, cuts his ear according -to the rule of the estate whose property he is; another holds a red-hot -brand, which he implants at once upon the quivering hide; while a third -with a small hand-saw cuts off the sharp points of the horns. The whole -operation scarcely occupies three minutes’ time; but notwithstanding -this, the danger is very great if the bull succeed in regaining his feet -before it is finished, as, instead of being subdued, no sooner is he -free, than he turns upon his assailants in renewed fury, and then those -valiant heroes may be seen scattering about the arena like a flock of -partridges. With nostrils widely distended, and foaming at the mouth, -the bull for an instant stands an embodiment of rage and terror, -endeavoring to discover the objects of his vengeance. None, however, are -presumptuous enough to await his onset; they would be levelled with the -dust in an instant, and his conquerors therefore adopt the wiser policy -of a speedy retreat to the highest fence, whence they pour a volley of -abuse upon his shaggy head. - -Occasionally, while the men were engaged with one bull, several others -effected their escape in spite of the men whose business it was to -prevent it. The situation of the others then became critical in the -extreme, being exposed to the attacks of the fugitives on the one hand, -and to those of the prisoner on the other; this last they were often -compelled to abandon in the midst of their labors. Those who held -younger animals formed with their bodies a sort of barricade with which -to fend off the aggressor, when no other expedient could be resorted to. -At times it appeared almost impossible to escape the impetuous charge of -the bulls, especially when the men were some distance from the fences; -the only remaining means of safety then consisted in throwing themselves -flat upon the ground at the moment the bull aimed a stroke, as in that -case the animal invariably jumped over their bodies. It is asserted that -bulls in charging always close their eyes, thus missing in blind -precipitancy many excellent opportunities for avenging the outrages -perpetrated on their race. Not so the cows, who are said to keep their -eyes fully open when they are bent on mischief, seldom if ever turning -from their intended victim without leaving some mark, of either horn or -hoof, in token of displeasure. - -On one occasion our leader himself very narrowly escaped from one of -these infuriate feminalities in spite of his ability in dealing with -wild cattle, and his dexterity in avoiding their attacks. We had just -entered the _majada_, and were making preparations for the coming -frolic. We stood under the shade of a splendid _matapalo_ or wild -fig-tree growing within the great enclosure, when a cow, which had left -her young behind while chased in the savanna, feeling rather uneasy in -consequence, cleared the fence of the pen wherein she was confined, and -the next moment was among us. All retreated to the fences, excepting our -leader, who, ever rather sensitive about turning his back upon an enemy, -stood his ground somewhat protected by the stout body of the tree. The -cow at first appeared to pay but little attention to him, making -straight for the gate of the _majada_, which she, unfortunately, found -strongly barred against her escape. Then retracing her steps, she sought -to avenge her evident disappointment upon the gentleman in white, whom -she very well recollected having left at the foot of the old _matapalo_. -Still the undaunted soldier, although repeatedly urged by his men to -fly, scorned the idea of seeking the _talanquera_, or, in other words, -climbing the fence in a hurry, thinking at first to avoid the enemy by -stepping round and round the tree; but the cow was too cunning to be -cheated in this manner. After thus chasing him in vain for a few -minutes, she suddenly changed her course, seeking him in the opposite -direction, which brought them face to face. Unfortunately, the General, -who had that morning been sitting for his likeness in the full costume -of the Llanos which he still wore, found himself rather embarrassed in -his movements by the wide folds of the _manta_. This prevented him from -drawing the sword he had retained, which was his first impulse; and he -therefore retreated a few paces into a more open space where he could -_torear_ her until others came to his assistance. With the subtlety of -her sex the cow at once perceived his intentions, and rapidly following -his every movement, watched her opportunity to strike him on the side; -but he, precisely at the right instant, with great presence of mind -threw himself flat upon the ground just as she aimed the blow. Instead, -however, of jumping over him, as is usual with bulls in similar cases, -the cow rushed upon him, when his adroitness in grasping one of her -fore feet so firmly as to arrest further attack until others came to his -relief, prevented any injury beyond a slight scratch on his side and -tearing his _manta_. - -It is needless to add that after so disrespectful an assault upon the -revered person of our leader, the cow received no gentle treatment at -the hands of the indignant _vaqueros_: some were for despatching her at -once for their evening meal; others, for affixing a dry hide to the end -of her tail and letting her loose over the plain; while a few, -compassionating her ignorance, among them the aggrieved owner, were only -for depriving her of the means of doing further mischief with the horns. -This opinion prevailing at last over all others, the ruthless hand of -the executioner at once applied the saw to the pride of her head, after -which she was allowed to depart in peace. Thus ended a short, but not -altogether inglorious struggle, which, but for the cunning and address -displayed on both sides, might have terminated fatally to either of the -parties engaged in it. - - * * * * * - -After the _corralejas_ had been emptied of their contents, there still -remained in the _majada_ several bulls at large, which had escaped -during the confusion; and many of these not yet having been operated -upon, another most exciting chase was afforded to the indefatigable and -athletic hunters. The narrowness of the field, however, which precluded -the use of horses, and the fact that each bull required to be captured -with the lazo, occasioned serious obstacles and much risk to the men -engaged therein. Lack of volunteers there was none, and among them a -powerful red-haired zambo, which freak of nature had obtained for him -the sobriquet of _colorado_--the red man. - -This fellow enjoyed a wide reputation in the country for his exploits, -both in field and corral, and on this occasion proved himself deserving -of the fame which he had heretofore achieved. It was he who now first -led the charge. Seizing a lazo of long dimensions, contrary to usual -practice, he proceeded to coil it on his right hand, securing the end -upon his left. Then, cautiously approaching a formidable black bull, -which stood alone in the centre of the _majada_, he sent the whole lazo, -noose and all, uncoiling like a snake through the air until it reached -the animal’s head. Although the distance must have been thirty paces, we -had the satisfaction of seeing the noose settle round his neck as truly -as if placed there by the practised hand of a hangman. From this moment, -Colorado was unanimously proclaimed master of the lazo, an honor which -he enjoyed to the end of the performances, as all that remained in this -case to be accomplished by the others was merely to pull the lazo in -order to bring the bull up to the botalon or upright post, which served -the double purpose of subduing stake for the bulls, and training post -for the boys. To it one or more young bulls were usually brought at the -end of the day’s work, and the boys compelled to mount them in the -manner described in a previous chapter; the animals are then set loose -amidst the crowd of assembled quadrupeds, which are evidently amazed at -the singular spectacle. - -[Illustration] - -We witnessed several exhibitions of the kind in the _majada_, whenever -we were present at the branding of the cattle; but never do I recollect -any serious accident occurring to the little riders. Thus it is that the -Llaneros educate their boys from infancy to the severest exercises of -their profession, so that they in turn may teach the same to their own -children. - -Not always, however, is the Llanero’s triumph over the brute creation -obtained so easily, for many are the instances in which the latter gain -the advantage in these hand-to-horn combats, and in such cases the evil -resulting is very great. Sometimes the men are dreadfully lacerated, -either by the horns or the sharp hoofs of their antagonists, frequently -losing their lives in consequence, from want of proper medical treatment -at the time the wounds are inflicted. The most common phase the disease -assumes is that of tetanus or lock-jaw, which sometimes ensues from only -a slight scratch on the tendinous part of the foot. From the scarcity of -surgeons in the country, and the lack of skill in dressing these wounds, -mortification, aneurisms, malignant abscesses, and a variety of other -complaints are amongst the evils resulting from this otherwise -entertaining sport. In spite of all our precautions, and the assistance -of the surgeon, Dr. Gallegos, we lost three of our best men, and several -others afterward died in consequence of injuries received during that -expedition. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -PLANTS AND SNAKES. - - -The wide extent of the savannas composing this cattle farm, and the -dispersion of the herds throughout them, compelled us to remove our -quarters to a more central point, from whence we could sally forth in -their pursuit. Orders were issued accordingly for the men to be in -readiness, and the next morning we quitted with regret our comfortable -quarters at the majordomo’s mansion and started for Mata-Gorda, one of -those delightful primeval groves which dot the prairies here and there. - -Some idea of the extent of this huge farm may be gathered from the fact -that one may start at a gallop early in the morning from one end of the -savannas and not reach the other until late at night of the same day. -Its area would measure at least eighty square leagues, or about one -hundred and fifty thousand acres of the richest land, but which under -the present backward and revolutionary state of the country is -comparatively valueless to its owner. The number of cattle dispersed -throughout the length and breadth of this wide extent of prairie land -was computed to be about a hundred thousand heads, and, at one time, ten -thousand horses; but what with the _peste_, revolutionary exactions, and -skin hunters, comparatively very few of the former and none of the -latter have been left. - -Our first occupation on arriving at the Mata was to set up a hasty ranch -for the protection of our accoutrements and baggage, a structure which -required little labor or expense, the graceful palms affording the best -kind of thatch for the roof, and the surrounding woods sufficient posts -and rafters for the framework. A convenient apartment was provided in it -for the hammocks of our Leader and worthy Surgeon, while the rest of us -were compelled to seek accommodations among the trunks and branches of -the trees. - -These arrangements completed, the necessary timber was next cut for the -corrals to be erected for enclosing the coming herds, a work to which -the hunters devoted themselves, while I found greater attractions in my -daily explorations through the tangled forest. The beautiful palms there -claimed my most particular attention. Apart from the splendor of their -growth and other peculiarities to which I have already alluded in a -former chapter, they are sufficient in themselves to supply many of the -domestic and economic wants of man in a primitive state. - -I also observed here many useful species of the extensive family of -leguminous plants, such as the _cañafistula_, (Cathartocarpus,) of which -there were several varieties, all of them beautiful timber trees, whose -pods, two feet long, were filled with a black gummy substance possessing -very medicinal properties. In a natural form it affords one of the -mildest and most agreeable cathartics. Belonging to the same family, the -_caro_, _masaguaro_, and _saman_ acacias can scarcely be rivalled in -durability by any other production of the vegetable world. Their pods -also contain a large proportion of a similar gummy substance which -cattle devour greedily, and which fattens them better than any other -kind of fodder. - -The _malagueta_ pepper, or donkey-bean, (_Uvaria febrifuga_,) an -excellent febrifuge and antispasmodic, also grows here in the greatest -abundance. Its aromatic seeds are carefully preserved in the tobacco -bladder of every Llanero, along with the tubers of the snake root, -(_Aristolochia bulbosa_,) a plant possessing the same virtues, and -withal the best antidote against the bite of serpents. - -Several other medicinal plants, such as the stately _mora_, the wild -sour-sop, and the _mapurite_, are also met with here; the last owes its -name to the peculiar odor, not unlike that of the skunk, which pervades -the whole plant, rendering it any thing but acceptable in the -neighborhood of an encampment. - -Of wild fruits there was also a fine array, and among them the most -delicious of all, in my opinion, is the _manirito_, (Anona muricata,) a -fruit scarcely known to horticulture, and still less to the listless -inhabitant of the country where it grows in wild luxuriance; as no one -there has yet thought of bringing it under cultivation. This plant, -which belongs to the same family as do several of the most celebrated -fruit trees of the tropics--the various kinds of custard apples and the -delicious cherimoyer--attains a height of ten feet, and at the season of -maturity, actually bends to the ground beneath its sweet load. -Unfortunately it all ripens at once, so that in a few days the whole -crop disappears. This fruit, like its congener the sour-sop, is covered -with soft prickles. The inside, a sweet and highly aromatic pulp, is -filled with small seeds, which, when the fruit is eaten in large -quantities, as is generally the case, are apt to produce dangerous -strictures. The whole plant is exceedingly fragrant; and by rubbing the -leaves between the hands, they emit a delightful aroma, not unlike that -of new mown hay. - -Another pleasant fruit, that I here met also for the first time, was the -wild _madroña_ of the size of a lemon, which it also resembles in shape -and color. It is filled with a most agreeable sub-acid pulp; this -envelops three or four large nuts, not unlike cacao-beans, and tastes -very much like strawberries. The tree producing this delicious fruit -attains a height of twenty feet. The foliage is very dense, with -coriaceous leaves ten inches long, of a brilliant green. A thick yellow -resin, resembling gamboge, exudes from every part of the tree when -wounded; but whether it has been found useful for any particular -purpose, I was unable to ascertain. - -Somewhat similar to the latter, although growing upon a plant of an -entirely different nature, is the _cacaita_, or monkey cacao-bean, a -soft and rather insipid fruit, the production of a vine, which monkeys -devour greedily. - -By far the largest proportion of the trees were several species of -_guamos_ (Inga lucida) and others of the same order of leguminous -plants, bearing pods eight or ten inches long; these are filled with a -row of black beans, enveloped in a snowy white and sweetish pulp, most -agreeable to the taste. The ripening season of this mild and wholesome -fruit was just commencing, and every day we gathered and consumed -quantities of it. - -Another pod-bearing tree of great utility proper to that region is the -_algarrobo_, (Hymenea curbaril,) the locust tree of the New World, which -bears a thick ligneous pod containing several hard, brown, and rounded -beans. These are surrounded by a sweet farinaceous substance, possessing -great alimentary properties. A fragrant resin exudes from the pericarp -of the pods, which, on being burned, yields a perfume similar to the -odor of frankincense combined with that of balsam of Tolú. - -I had almost forgotten to mention, among the agreeable fruits of these -parts, several kinds of wild guavas, from the tiny Arrayan, scarcely -distinguishable among the tufts of grass by which it is surrounded, to -the beautiful _paujil_ shrub, bearing in great profusion quantities of -brilliant scarlet, highly perfumed and acidulous fruits. The berry of -the former exactly resembles Jamaica allspice in shape; is quite sweet, -and possesses in a high degree the exquisite flavor and aroma of the -myrtle tribe, to which indeed all these plants belong. - -Great care was necessary in selecting spits for roasting the beef, on -account of a most poisonous shrub, the deadly _guachamacá_, abounding -there. It belongs to the extensive family of Apocineæ or Dogbanes, whose -poisonous qualities are known all over the world. So virulent is this -poison, that meat roasted on spits made from the guachamacá, absorbs -sufficient poison to destroy all who partake of it. The lazy Indians -make use of it to kill without trouble the cranes and herons on the -borders of lagoons. For this they procure a number of sardines, besmear -them with the juice of the plant, and spread them along the places -frequented by those birds. The moment one of them seizes the fish, and -before it is fairly swallowed, the bird drops dead; then the indolent -hunter, issuing from his hiding-place, cuts off the parts affected by -the poison, usually the head and neck, and feels no scruple in eating -the remainder. - -A dreadful case of poisoning by means of this plant had just occurred at -Nutrias, soon after our arrival on the Apure, which created for a time -great excitement even amidst that scattered population. A woman who -lived with a man in the vicinity of that town became jealous of the -attentions he bestowed upon a charming neighbor of theirs, and -determined to avenge herself, but in some manner that would not excite -suspicion. In those remote regions where coroners and chemists are -unknown, it is impossible to detect murder except where marks of -external violence are visible. Accordingly, she prepared for her lover a -bowl of _masato_, a favorite beverage of the country, made of Indian -corn boiled, mashed in water, and fermented; in this she soaked chips of -the poisonous plant and offered it to him with smiling grace. Delighted -at sight of the tempting bowl, the unsuspecting lover invited several of -his neighbors--among them the hated rival--to share it with him. The -woman, not intending to destroy any but her perfidious lover, during his -absence prepared another bowl, omitting this time the poison. Llanero -politeness obliged the host, however, to mix his portion with the -others, which having done, he invited the company to dip their calabash -cups into the bowl. Out of eleven persons there assembled, among them -several children, not one escaped except the wicked perpetrator of this -wholesale murder; nor even the donkeys and fowl of the household, as -their attentive master had thrown them the remains of the deadly -mixture. - -Such is the dread in which the Llaneros hold this plant, that I was not -even permitted to preserve the specimens of fruit and flowers I had -collected, with the object of ascertaining, on my return to the Valleys, -the botanical characters of the species. They almost threatened to -desert, if I insisted upon carrying the leaves among the baggage. - -The propagation of this plant throughout the Apure appears to be of -recent origin, none of the oldest inhabitants recollecting to have met -with it until within comparatively a short period. - - * * * * * - -The men had no small trouble in clearing our camp of many noxious -reptiles; and it became our regular afternoon business to hunt for -snakes. We succeeded in killing a great number in the vicinity of the -ranch, some very poisonous, while others were quite harmless; of the -latter class I found two species of coral snakes, against which an -unjust prejudice exists, that they are among the most poisonous. Of the -former, the _matacaballo_ is the most to be feared. Although scarcely -larger than a good-sized earthworm, his bite is nevertheless almost -instantaneously fatal to man and beast. Unlike his other sluggish and -torpid congeners, this little snake is the more dangerous because always -on the alert. The tramp of a horse, especially, never fails in rousing -them, against which noble animal they evince an inveterate rancor. I was -once occupied in sketching one of these snakes, which I had permitted to -live for the purpose, and I observed that whenever a horse approached -us, the snake rapidly turned his head in the direction of the sound, -seeming as if anxious to strike the animal with his fangs; but as I had -fortunately taken the precaution of disabling him by partially breaking -his spine, he could make but little progress toward the object of his -dislike. - -The tendinous part between the hoof and ankle-joint of the horse being -nearest the ground, is consequently most exposed to the bite of the -_matacaballo_; and although the distance from the ankle to the heart is -very great, it not unfrequently happens that the animal drops as if -touched by the electric spark, from which fact I infer that this poison -acts on the nervous system as well as on the blood. Horned cattle and -pigs are fortunately shielded by the thickness of their skin from the -fangs of this destroyer, which cannot penetrate it. Hence this snake has -been termed, _par excellence_, matacaballo, literally horse-killer. - -[Illustration] - -It was at one time extremely dangerous to drive horses across the banks -of these savannas where snakes are always most abundant; their numbers, -however, have been considerably diminished since the immense -multiplication of pigs in those regions. - -Horses have there also another dangerous enemy--a great hairy spider or -species of the tarantula; this inflicts a very poisonous and painful -sting just above the hoof, which in time drops off, although it is never -followed by death. - -But among all these evil creatures, there is none so disgusting or so -dangerous as the rattlesnake. The virulence of its poison, and the great -size attained by some, renders them the terror of every man and beast -where they abound. Fortunately for mankind, they have been provided by -an ever-watchful Providence with what is termed a rattle; this is -composed of a number of horny rings placed at the end of the tail, -which, on being shaken, produce a peculiar sound, and serve as warning. -It is said that Nature every year adds one of these rings, thus marking -the age of the reptile. From its loathsome body is exhaled a strong -odor, somewhat resembling musk, in itself sufficient to warn the most -careless, as it is perceptible at the distance of a hundred feet. The -head is peculiarly flat and broad, and the eyes sparkle in the darkness -like specks of fire. The mouth is a ghastly aperture, whence issues a -black and forked tongue, which the reptile moves incessantly when -irritated. Two long fangs, curved inwardly, project in front of the -upper jaw, and through them the fatal venom is discharged. The poison is -secreted from two glands in the form of small bags at the root of the -fangs, admirably adapted for the purpose, being hollow inside throughout -their whole length, and by their pressure against the glands produced by -the act of biting, the liquid is ejected into the wound. Fortunately, -this snake is the slowest in its motions, and the most torpid of its -kind, otherwise the mischief done by them would be much greater, they -being very abundant also in the Llanos. Their favorite haunts are the -hollow trunks of decayed trees and deep fissures in the ground. -Occasionally they are found coiled among thick clumps of grass, which -shelter them from the glaring sun; but they are always ready to strike -any intruder. At night they issue forth in quest of game, returning -again to their hiding-places before sunrise. - -In addition to the foregoing, there are several other kinds in the -Apure; among the harmless ones the _sabanera_ is very abundant in the -savannas, from which it is named. Some of these are ten feet long and -occasionally even more. They glide over the ground with astonishing -rapidity, making all varieties of contortions with their bodies, the -forward part of which they keep all the while raised in a vertical -position. These snakes are very useful, as they destroy all the -poisonous kinds they encounter. - -The beautiful coral snake, with alternate rings of red, black, and -white, is occasionally seen in the vicinity of ant-holes. Most persons -attribute to it very poisonous qualities; but I have examined its mouth -carefully and found there no fangs, nor any of the characteristics of -poisonous snakes. - -[Illustration] - -In the same category is placed another inoffensive reptile, a cecilia, -emphatically styled _culebra de dos cabezas_, or two-headed snake--so -named on account of having both ends of its body of equal thickness, -while the eyes are almost invisible. It seems the connecting link -between snakes and earthworms, partaking of the nature of both, is about -a foot long, and rather disproportionately thick for its length, while -its body is covered with minute scales. As this snake has the power of -moving backward or forward with equal facility, it is supposed by many -to be actually possessed of two heads. There is abundant nourishment for -it in the ant nests which it frequents, but it feeds also on earthworms, -and the larvæ of insects, pursuing them with unrelenting perseverance -through the ground. The double motion of this reptile, its great -muscular powers and flexibility enable it to penetrate the deepest -recesses of a colony of ants, and to pierce the earth with wonderful -expedition in search of prey. - - -ANTIDOTES. - -Several antidotes are recommended for the venomous bite of snakes; some -of them possess real alexipharmic virtues, as the _raiz de mato_, to -which I have already alluded under the name of Aristolochia bulbosa, and -the _guaco_, (Mikania Guaco,) a composite plant which the learned Mutis -has rendered so celebrated through the instrumentality of Humboldt; the -others, however, are nothing more than superstitious imaginings, which -see in the tooth of a crocodile extracted on Good Friday, or in some -unmeaning orison whispered in the sufferer’s ear, greater powers than -in all the resources of medical science. Yet such is the leaning of the -benighted children of Nature in these regions toward the supernatural, -that they always give the preference to whatever savors most of the -miraculous. Somewhat of this has doubtless arisen from the mistaken idea -that all snakes are poisonous. Thus if it so happen that the incantation -is whispered over a person who recovers, having been bitten by a -harmless snake, his cure is of course attributed to magic, which is -accordingly proclaimed a sovereign remedy for all similar cases in -future. Saint Paul, as I have already mentioned, possesses not only the -power of arresting the fatal spring of a snake, if invoked in time, but -can also neutralize the poison, even when it is circulating through the -veins. Notwithstanding my want of faith in the intervention of the saint -in question, I confess myself to have been on an occasion extremely -puzzled by one of these cherished superstitions, the famous _Oracion de -San Pablo_, and up to this period have not been able to account for it -in a manner satisfactory to my common sense. As we were one afternoon -driving home a herd of cattle, the majordomo’s horse was bitten by a -_matacaballo_, when at a short distance from the ranch. The rider -observed his sudden start, and at once mentioned the cause thereof. The -ground, overgrown with grass, was diligently searched, and the snake -discovered and killed on the very spot pointed out by the majordomo, who -in the mean time had hastened forward with his horse to the ranch, -knowing that the strength of the poor animal would soon give way. -Scarcely had he alighted when his horse, covered with a cold sweat, -dropped to the ground. A _curandero_ or snake doctor immediately -presented himself and commenced a series of incantations over the -prostrate animal, which it was supposed would soon counteract the -poison. I was anxious to administer spirits of hartshorn, a -well-authenticated remedy for such cases, but the Llaneros opposed this -resolutely, on the ground that it would interfere with their own. The -_Oracion_ was accordingly whispered in the horse’s ear and the patient -then removed to a convenient pasture, where he could find abundant feed -if fate ever restored his appetite. Here he was left, rolling upon the -ground and moaning piteously, while I was positively assured by the men -that in the course of two hours, at most, he would be completely -restored, and my scepticism confounded. Singularly enough, the remedy -acted in this case like a real charm; at the appointed time the horse -started to his feet and commenced browsing the grass around him with as -much gusto as if he had experienced no ailment whatsoever. Whether the -venom of the snake was not, in this instance, strong enough to kill the -horse; or, what is more probable, the reptile’s fang might not have -penetrated deep enough, are questions which cannot be decided, but -shortly afterward the same horse, a beautiful but wild and vicious young -stallion, came very near kicking to death the _curandero_ who restored -him to health. - -The Llaneros are not, however, the only people in the country who have -faith in these miraculous cures. It is more or less entertained -throughout the country by persons more enlightened in other respects -than they. It is asserted of a famous _curandero_ in the Valleys of -Aragua, that in extreme cases, if prevented from going in person to the -patient, it was only necessary to send his hat! By placing this talisman -on the injured man’s head, it would not only afford immediate relief, -but arrest the progress of the venom until the owner could come himself -to perfect the cure. - - * * * * * - -Another singular practice obtains among Llaneros; it is that of -inoculation with the juice of certain plants possessing alexipharmic -virtues, after which the most poisonous snakes may be handled with -impunity. It is asserted, moreover, that _cerrados_--as individuals thus -inoculated are termed--are not only proof against the bite of these -reptiles, but can attract them around their persons by merely clapping -of hands or whistling for them in fields where they abound. Having never -witnessed any of these experiments, I will neither undertake to uphold -the truth of this assertion, nor will I question its veracity; but there -are hundreds of reliable persons in the country who will unhesitatingly -swear to its efficacy; among them, is the testimony of Dr. Benites, a -professional gentleman who has published the result of his experiments -in a small book on the Materia Medica of the country. With the view of -ascertaining the alleged properties of the guaco he devoted a great -portion of his time while at La Victoria in experimenting with various -kinds of snakes; from him I quote the following passage: “The guaco -possesses in a high degree the faculty of preserving man and animals in -general from the terrible and fatal effects of the bites of serpents. -This valuable secret, discovered in Bogota by the celebrated naturalist, -Don Celestino Mútis, in 1788, remains still as such among some -_curanderos_ of our own country, who, under certain mysterious forms, -and availing themselves of the fangs of serpents, puncture several -slight incisions in certain parts of the body, which they fill with the -powdered leaves of the guaco previously made dry, and administer the -same internally mixed in common rum. This property of the guaco is so -reliable, inoculation by means of the juice such as was practised by -Mútis himself so well authenticated, and the facts concerning it so well -attested, that there cannot longer exist the least doubt in regard to -its efficacy. I wished to convince myself by actual experiment, and can -testify that in a thousand trials of inoculation practised by myself in -different ways on patients whom I allowed to be bitten by various kinds -of snakes, I never knew one to fail. Suffice it to say that the -principal amusement of children in this place is to catch, carry about -and play with snakes, and that even young ladies keep them in their -bosoms or coil them around their necks.” - -It appears, nevertheless, absolutely necessary to renew the inoculation -at different epochs of a man’s life, as in the case of vaccination it -loses its power after a time. It was no doubt owing to his neglect of -the rule, that a gentleman in the town of Ocumare some years ago fell a -victim to his blind confidence in this sort of inoculation. Don N. -Ugarte had kept a rattlesnake in a drawer during four years; with it he -occasionally amused himself, no more harm resulting therefrom than if it -had been a kitten. One day on returning home from his rounds in the -plantation, he felt in the humor of playing a little with his old pet, -and accordingly took him out of his berth and placed him upon the -writing desk before him. One of the children who had also been -inoculated happening to be near, the father suggested that he should -kiss the reptile; to this, the child objected very decidedly; the -foolish parent, however, insisting, the mother interfered and begged -that her child should not be compelled to touch the loathsome creature; -whereupon the father exclaimed: “How foolish you are! I will show you -how it kisses me. Now, then, pet, give me a kiss;” and so saying, he -leaned forward toward the snake; true to its instincts, the reptile -sprang to his lips and implanted such a kiss that its master never -recovered from the effects. Both fangs of the snake went quite through -his upper lip, and he at once felt himself to be mortally wounded. A -physician was sent for without delay, but he expired before assistance -could reach him. - -The guaco is employed, moreover, in various other disorders of the -system with great success. In chronic rheumatism it is an invaluable -remedy both in the form of poultices made of the fresh leaves, or by -simply rubbing the part affected with a decoction of the plant in -spirits, and taking internally one or two ounces of the expressed juice, -morning and evening. Administered in the latter form it is an -efficacious remedy against hydrophobia, if given immediately after the -person has been bitten by a mad dog. General Paez was thus saved, when a -youth, from this dreadful scourge of tropical countries; he has -nevertheless retained in after life some evil effects of the virus still -in his system manifesting itself in a tendency to severe spasmodic -affections, especially at sight of a snake, which invariably induces -violent convulsions. - -[Illustration: ARISTOLOCHIA APURENSIS.--NATURAL SIZE.] - -Next to the guaco in importance as an alexipharmic, may be classed the -_raiz de mato_ including several varieties of Aristolochias, the roots -of which are intensely bitter. As its name implies, it is said to afford -the _mato_--a large species of lizard--a prompt antidote against the -bite of his old antagonist, the snake. There would seem to exist some -ancient grudge between these two reptiles, many persons asserting that -whenever they come in sight of one another, they instantly rush to the -attack, the _mato_ never failing to overcome his rival by his superior -botanical knowledge; this, or his instinct, prompts him to seek the -plant, and swallowing some of the leaves, returns recuperated to the -fight.[28] - -To the facts adduced above, I now have the pleasure of adding the -testimony of such an authority as Gosse, who has devoted an entire -chapter of his truly romantic book[29] to the consideration of a subject -“well worthy of minute investigation by able and unprejudiced men of -science, willing to receive unscientific information and suggestions, in -various parts of the world, particularly in the intertropical regions of -both hemispheres.” Among the many well-authenticated incidents recorded -by him, I select the following as bearing a striking similarity to the -one just mentioned: “Some animals, especially those which prey upon -serpents, seem to be proof against their bites. The ichneumons, or -mangoustes of Africa and Asia, have long been celebrated for their -immunity, and veritable stories have been narrated of their having -recourse to some herb, when bitten, after which they successfully -renewed the attack. Percival, in his account of Ceylon, relates that a -mangouste placed in a close room where a venomous serpent was, instead -of darting at it, as he would ordinarily have done, ran peeping about, -anxiously seeking some way of escape; but finding none, it returned to -its master, crept into his bosom, and could by no means be persuaded to -face the snake. When, however, both were removed out of the house into -the open field, the mangouste instantly flew at the serpent, and soon -destroyed it. After the combat the little quadruped suddenly disappeared -for a few minutes, and again returned. Percival concludes, not -unreasonably, that during its absence it had found the antidotal herb, -and eaten of it. The natives state that the mangouste resorts on such -occasions to the _Ophiorhiza mungos_, whose root is reputed a specific -for serpent-bites. This is a cinchonaceous plant, so intensely bitter -that it is called by the Malays by a name which signifies earth-gall.” - -How wonderful the provisions of bountiful Nature are; and still more -singular the readiness of the human intellect, whether in a rude or a -cultivated state, to make them subservient to its wants! The most -extraordinary antidote against the bite of serpents yet within my -knowledge, is the one employed on the coast of Cartagena, not the -“earth-gall,” which they possess of the bitterest kind in Aristolochia -unguicida, but the gall of the reptile itself, an alcoholic solution of -which, administered to the patient in small doses, rubbing the wound -with the same, or with spirits of ammonia, being sufficient to -counteract the virus of the most deadly serpents of that region. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -TIGER STORIES. - - -On the second night from our arrival at the Mata, just as most of our -party in their hammocks were swinging off into dreamland, the ominous -cry of _El Tigre!_--the tiger--was heard in the direction of the camp -fires, where a few of the men still lingered. As if lifted by a gust of -the pampero, every man dropped from his aërial couch, and in an instant -the whole camp became a scene of the wildest confusion. Firebrands flew -in every direction, by the uncertain glare of which we gained occasional -glimpses of the jaguar, for such was the intruder, prowling near us like -a huge cat. The horses snorted in terror, the men shouted vociferously, -while our brave Mónico commenced drumming upon his pots and kettles as -if they were so many gongs, with which in his capacity of cook he -summoned us to dinner, creating such an uproar as drowned the voices of -men and beasts, and was horrible enough to frighten away a legion of -jaguars. The odor of the savory spits, at all hours faithful to their -posts around the camp fires, had - -[Illustration: THE JAGUAR.] - -doubtless proved the magnet of attraction to his spotted majesty, who, -probably disgusted with the style of his reception, made a precipitate -retreat to his stronghold in the forest, growling indignation at our -want of hospitality. - -Although among the natives he is commonly known by the name of the -tiger, this animal is actually the jaguar or Felix Onza of naturalists, -no real tigers existing in any part of America. It nevertheless exerts -the same tyranny over other animals as does the tiger or leopard in the -hot regions of the Old World, differing from its congener principally in -the form of the marks upon his skin, which in the jaguar of America are -rounded or in rings, therein unlike the long stripes of the Bengal -tiger. In another species common to the forests of Guayana, the skin is -nearly black, the spots being invisible except in the broad sunlight. -This is considered the most sanguinary and ferocious. Some jaguars -attain a great size, measuring seven feet from the nose to the tail. -They are sufficiently powerful to kill an ox or horse and drag them off -over the highest fences. - -When the excitement occasioned by the intrusion of the nocturnal thief -had subsided, few of us were inclined for sleep; several of our men, -therefore, who had been at different times active participators in -similar adventures, volunteered entertaining us for the remainder of the -night with some interesting stories concerning this lord of South -American forests. From them I gathered many useful facts respecting his -habits and disposition, which I shall recount as nearly as possible -verbatim. - -Although, perhaps, the most powerful among wild beasts of this -continent, the jaguar is by no means as terrible as might be supposed -from the renown of his prowess. Occasionally when hard pressed by hunger -he ventures within the precincts of man, robbing the corrals of the -farmhouse of their defenceless inmates. Many instances are also related -of his having attacked and carried off a solitary traveller to his lair -in the woods; but he usually evinces the profoundest respect for man -unless driven to extremities, when he has been known to set at defiance -the combined efforts of a host of men and dogs. When thus, by a too -intimate acquaintance with the people and flocks of some particular -community, he has gone so far as to levy blackmail upon them, the -appellation of _cebado_--as in the case of the crocodile--is given to -the jaguar. An animal of this description is said to possess wonderful -daring and instinct, making him by far the most dangerous of the class, -attacking not only tame animals in the corrals, but even individuals are -frequently assailed and devoured by him. It is said also that when he -has once tasted human blood, he becomes insatiable in his eagerness to -procure this luxury. They are then so dangerous, that the owners of -cattle farms usually call a meeting of all the _hateros_ in the -vicinity, capable of handling lazo or lance--firearms being rarely used -in expeditions of this kind--and with the assistance of a pack of -well-trained hounds of a peculiar breed, called _tigreros_ in -consequence, they surround the wood supposed to harbor the tiger, and -beating carefully about the jungle, drive him out into the open plain, -where men on horseback are stationed ready to lazo the game as it -breaks cover. To ensure success, it is only requisite that the horses be -steady and well trained to the sport; and as the tiger, conscious of his -danger, frequently refuses to quit the jungle, a number of daring -matadors are also needed to drive him out or attack him in his lair, -assisted in this by the dogs, which, by harassing him on all sides, -divert him from the assailants. - -Jaguars were at one time so numerous in the Llanos, that their ravages -upon the calves and young foals were truly frightful. This circumstance, -in addition to the value attached in other countries to their beautiful -skins, have contributed to reduce the numbers very considerably, as -whenever they make their appearance they are eagerly pursued. - -In its wild state the jaguar is an exceedingly beautiful animal; his -motions particularly easy and graceful, and possessing wonderful agility -in bounding among the trees and tall grass of the savannas. When -watching for prey, he generally crouches upon the ground, the fore paws -stretched out, resting his head between them in a manner very similar to -that of the domestic cat; and as he climbs trees with a facility almost -equal to that of monkeys, these are in exceeding dread of him on that -account. - -The haunts usually preferred by the jaguar appear to be swampy borders -of marshes and lagoons overgrown with reeds and wild plantain, where -they are sure of finding plenty of game. Water hogs or capyvaras -especially, are easy prey, as they cannot move except in short jumps. It -is asserted that where these animals abound, there is little to be -feared from the jaguar, which always prefers the wild animals of the -field for food, becoming bolder and more dangerous to man in proportion -as these disappear. - - * * * * * - -My earliest recollection of the jaguar dates from the time when the -famous town of Achaguas was head-quarters for the patriot army commanded -by my father. I was a little fellow not more than three years of age, -when a foraging party fell in with a tigress and her cub; the latter -they secured and brought to Achaguas after a desperate struggle with the -mother. The extreme beauty and youth of the captive soon gained the -sympathies and favor of a host of admirers, especially those of the -female department, in the household of Colonel Mujica, who purchased it -and consigned it to their care. Under their special protection and good -treatment it quickly grew strong enough to take part in all squabbles -among the dogs and cats of the family, which animals always form a -prominent feature in all well-regulated Llanero establishments. At first -the new pet was allowed the entire freedom of the premises, associating -very readily with every stranger who visited the house, and evincing -none of the disagreeable traits ascribed to these animals. I, who -participated in all its juvenile antics, and who supposed it to be only -a large cat, very soon became its favorite playmate, until on one -occasion it carried its pranks so far as to throw me down, at the same -time tearing my clothing to rags with its claws. From this moment it was -considered expedient to chain up my playfellow, and accordingly he was -secured to a pillar in the corridor of the house. It is related of this -favorite, that having afterward broken its chain, it speedily found the -way to the poultry yard where the Colonel kept his game chickens, not -one of which was left to fight its battles over. For this unpardonable -breach of discipline the young tiger received so sound a castigation as -to cripple the poor fellow for life. - -Numberless are the tricks recorded of the lame tiger of Colonel Mujica, -they for a time constituting the principal amusement of those of the -army who were in the habit of frequenting the Colonel’s quarters to -while away their idle hours at the favorite game of monte. What finally -became of my uncouth playfellow, I am unable to state; the probability -is that he, as well as most of the brave champions of that memorable -epoch, is dead; at all events, they are buried ... in the dust of the -past. - - * * * * * - -In a solitary ranch, not far from San Jaime, there once lived a poor -widow, who, out of compassion for a young cub which had been picked up -by some vaqueros undertook to raise it with the milk of her own goats, -sheltering it at night from the damp under the folds of her bed, -covering and treating the foundling with as much affection as though it -were her child. In return, the little fellow became so attached to its -adopted mother, that it could not endure a moment’s separation from her, -and would lie like a cat by the fireside while she devoted herself to -the occupations of the kitchen. As it grew older and stronger, the -woman’s slender stock of goats was rapidly diminished by its repeated -depredations; it was therefore deemed prudent to give it wider range -than the widow’s little farm-yard, and it was encouraged to seek for -game in the neighboring woods. Whenever successful in these excursions, -the intelligent creature invariably brought some home, and with seeming -pride laid it at the feet of its benefactress. On one occasion, some of -her neighbors having come to pass the day with her, she thought that as -game was plentiful and easily obtained, she would spare such of her -goats as had thus far escaped the teeth of her favorite, and, instead, -procure with its assistance a supply of venison with which to treat her -guests. Accordingly, leaving the hut in their charge, she and her -efficient hunter started for the woods, proposing to be back in time to -cook the dinner; but to the astonishment of her visitors, the -dinner-hour arrived, then the night, but no tidings of the hunters; and -up to this time, I believe, nothing has been heard about either of the -former tenants of the solitary ranch, although it is not difficult to -imagine the poor widow’s fate. - - * * * * * - -We had once in our employ a stout and powerful sambo, who on account of -his name--Bolívar--and his great muscular development, had received the -sobriquet of Bolivote, or big Bolívar. Great was his pride in possessing -not only the same patronymic as the distinguished General of his name, -but also some deep scars on his right arm, inflicted by the claws of a -jaguar, which he improved every opportunity of displaying. - -Bolivote had been riding hard during a whole day, and feeling rather -weary, sought repose under the shade of a clump of palm trees, allowing -his horse meanwhile to crop the grass near by. He had lain down at the -foot of a palm, and almost fallen asleep, when he was roused by a -rustling of the leaves overhead, and looking up to ascertain the cause, -beheld with astonishment a large jaguar in the act of springing upon -him. He started to his feet, but was within the tiger’s grasp ere he -could unsheath his sword. Without losing a moment he plunged his finger -into one of the fiery eyeballs glaring upon him, and succeeded in -forcing it from its socket. The pain thus inflicted was so acute, that -the tiger retreated with fearful yells; yet not before he had mangled -with teeth and claws the sturdy arm which had punished him so severely. - - * * * * * - -During our journey across the pampas, we were shown the spot where not -long before a jaguar had attacked a woman. Her preservation, also, was -due to presence of mind, and to the fact of being armed with a _machete_ -or cutlass, with which she had intended cutting a load of wood for -domestic uses. The wood being near at hand, she was in the daily habit -of fearlessly traversing the plain alone. On one occasion she went _al -monte_, to the fields, as they say there, with the intention of -collecting her usual load of fagots. No sooner did she commence breaking -the sticks, than a deep rumbling growl which seemed to shake the ground -beneath her feet, almost paralyzed her movements. Although the sound was -somewhat familiar, yet she never before had heard it so near at hand, -and she was therefore instantly conscious of her perilous situation. -Knowing that an attempt at precipitate flight would only contribute to -increase the anger of the tiger, she decided accordingly upon concealing -herself and remaining perfectly quiet behind a large tree. Vain -endeavor! in a few moments a large jaguar glided from the tangled jungle -and stood before the terrified woman, his eyes shooting fire, his open -mouth parched with thirst of blood. At the dread sight she gave herself -up for lost, and began reciting aloud a prayer to her patron saint, -which the tiger answered with another fearful roar. The jaguar then -commenced tearing up the roots of the nearest tree, looking the while -like a huge cat sharpening his claws. Then gradually approaching the -woman’s hiding-place until within a few yards, with a bound he cleared -the space separating them, and alighted at the foot of the tree behind -which she was sheltered. Without a moment’s loss, the woman aimed a blow -with her _machete_, severing one of the paws which grasped the tree. -This partly disabling him, he retreated a few paces; but soon returning -to the attack, received a second blow, this time on his head, with such -good effect that he fell stunned upon the ground. It is needless to add -that our heroine did not wait to see what might have been the final -result of this blow, but springing from her hiding-place, she so -belabored him with her _machete_ as to completely spoil his skin for -marketable purposes. - - * * * * * - -Among the troop of idlers and adventurers always following the camp, we -were favored at Mata Gorda with the company of a famous story teller of -the Apure, who, in wonderful encounters with wild beasts, and -marvellous adventures, might almost rival the celebrated Baron -Munchausen, or even the sailor of Arabian Nights celebrity. His real -name was B.; but owing to his diminutive stature and cunning, he had -been honored with the familiar appellation of _Tio Conejo_.[30] Indeed, -so small was he, that if we credit his statement, he was often mistaken -for his own baby, usurping its place in the cradle for the purpose of -enjoying the kisses and other _petites caresses_ usually lavished by the -female sex upon these tender innocents. Among the various incidents of -his eventful life, he had, as a matter of course, something to say -concerning tigers. - -“Once upon a time,” said our humorous companion, “I was by the banks of -the river Uribante, and there had an opportunity of cheating _Tio Tigre_ -in his endeavors to make mince meat of my humble self. Returning one day -from a successful fishing excursion, I was enjoying my usual siesta when -_El Tio_ made up his mind, as it seemed, to pay me an unexpected visit, -doubtless with the intention of robbing me of the products of my -industry, which I had dressed and salted a few minutes before. Happily I -have for obvious reasons accustomed my eyes to keep alternate watch when -camping out alone, as was the case in this instance, so that if -approached by any evil-disposed individual, I am always able to avoid -danger through the watchfulness of the one on duty; when this sentinel -becomes weary, I allow it to sleep and rouse its fellow. - -“Well, _Señores_, as I have said already, one of my watchmen observing -the tiger coming toward me, I sprang from my hammock with the intention -of giving him a warm reception; but, luckily for the spotted vagabond, -my _cuchillo_, which is always by my side, was left forgotten among the -heap of fish I had been dressing. Thus cut off from my only means of -defence, and observing near by an immense gourd of a size such as is -rarely seen in these parts, I slipped into it just when _Tio Tigre_ -thought he had me.” - -The narrative was here interrupted by a sceptical individual from the -audience insisting upon being enlightened as to the precise dimensions -of that gourd; the reply was, “Why, Sirs, here is nothing extraordinary. -I have seen squashes at the foot of the Cordilleras, each of which would -be a load sufficient for a bongo. I once lost a pack of mules during the -night, and after searching for them around the base of what I supposed a -hillock, I found the sagacious animals inside one of these squashes--for -such was the seeming hillock--supping at leisure on the succulent pulp, -having gnawed for themselves a passage to the interior. But to return to -my story. The tiger, enraged at my sudden disappearance, commenced a -deliberate attack with teeth and claws upon the tough and slippery -shell, with no other result than that of rolling the gourd with me in it -further from him. - -“It was hugely amusing to watch from my stronghold the tactics of my -assailant; at one moment - -[Illustration: THE PUMA.] - -crouched a short distance off upon the ground, he would watch the -mysterious object much as a cat watches a mouse; then with a sudden -spring pounced again upon the gourd, thus causing it to roll before him -like a ball. My only fear was, that the tiger in one of these furious -onsets might precipitate me into the stream below. I was not then aware -that water in deep rivers reaches no lower than the base of their steep -banks, which act as support for the whole body of water above, thus -leaving a clear expanse underneath and the bed of the river entirely -dry, a remarkable fact which I discovered on another occasion when -diving in the Orinoco for a lost treasure belonging to the monks. - -“That which I feared at last came to pass. The gourd, pushed by the -tiger, fell spinning into the water, and I found myself sailing down the -stream escorted by a band of hungry crocodiles, who watched me with -eager eyes and open jaws, until my patron saint in the form of a humane -porpoise came to my assistance, frightened off the ugly wretches, and -receiving me on his back, landed me in safety on a desert shore, where, -_amigos_, you will have to leave me for the present, as it is almost -morning, and we must sleep an hour or two before starting for the -_Rodeo_.” - - -THE PANTHER-TIGER. - -Although principally a sojourner in the more elevated parts of the -country, the panther is occasionally seen descending toward the plains -in search of the abundant fare of the pampas. He resembles the jaguar -in many respects, and is called in consequence, _tigre de serrania_, or -mountain tiger. He is, however, easily distinguished from the former by -the shape of his head, which in the panther is more acute toward the -snout, while the spots on his skin are smaller and more closely set. - -The panther is by far the bolder and more sanguinary of the two; he -frequents the mountain passes, waylaying stray animals and solitary -travellers; and there are many cases on record in which he has displayed -his bloodthirsty propensities by boldly seeking food even in the very -haunts of man. - -Some of the mountain districts of Venezuela are so infested with them, -that few travellers ever venture to journey alone there; as, for -instance, the _montaña de_ Capaya, east of Caracas, and the Cerro de -Aroa to the west, both famed for the number and boldness of these -animals. Under cover of the dense forests with which those mountains are -clothed to the very summit, they lie in wait. Not long since, a -traveller from the village of Aroa, finding the distance greater than he -had anticipated, was compelled to pass the night in the forest. Fearing -the panthers, he slung his hammock between two palm trees as high as -possible from the ground, hoping doubtless thereby to escape them, but -his precautions proved of no avail; the poor traveller fell a prey to -one of these sanguinary beasts. A few days after, a party of muleteers -passing along the same route, found on the spot where the sad tragedy -had been enacted, evidence of the bloody assault. Deep furrows ploughed -in the ground between the palm trees, showed that the panther must have -made frequent and tremendous leaps to reach the unfortunate traveller; -but with the exception of the torn hammock, there remained no vestige of -the victim. - - * * * * * - -My first vacation trip from the terrors of a South American school and -the angry visage of a harsh preceptor, is still fresh in my mind, as is -also the fright I received upon the road from an imaginary panther while -endeavoring to reach before daylight the nearest inn upon the route. - -The road from the capital to the Valleys of Aragua--our -destination--lies for the most part over a high ridge of mountains with -precipitous sides, interspersed here and there with deep ravines and -almost impenetrable thickets of forest trees, fit lurking-places for -wild beasts and banditti. The extreme steepness of the road renders the -aid of mules, or horses of superior mettle, imperative, and for this -exigency our attentive guides had well provided before leaving Caracas. - -The party was principally composed of young gentlemen and their -attendants, all like myself bound to the fertile regions of Aragua, -where we purposed passing the holidays with our families; and a wilder -set of madcaps it would have been difficult to find. Every moment -witnessed a malicious trick, sometimes tickling the mules under the -cruppers with whips, until, worried into frenzy, they plunged fearfully -along the road, placing us in danger of being hurled into eternity -through the yawning chasms beneath. Sometimes jerking the tail of a -neighbor’s mule, causing the animal to whirl so violently as to almost -destroy its balance. Occasionally some of the party might be seen -scrambling up the rugged side of a mountain after bright colored insects -or wild berries. At length, the steepness of the ascent no longer -permitting the continuance of our pranks, the guides entertained us with -frightful stories of a tiger said to lurk in these mountains; but -chiefly with accounts of horrid murders perpetrated at various points -along our route, which, judging from the many crosses and stone mounds -raised to the victims by the piety of wayfarers, must have been truly -appalling in number. In those parts it is customary to mark the spot -where a crime of the kind has been committed, with a wooden cross, at -whose foot every passer-by casts a stone, muttering at the same time a -prayer for the repose of the unshriven soul. One of these memorials was -erected to a poor fellow, whose throat had been cut and body frightfully -mutilated for a new poncho and a few reals. At another, a tiger had -seized a wearied poultry carrier imprudently asleep by the side of his -coop, and devoured him and his chickens. In another instance, the tiger -appeared suddenly among a group of muleteers quietly refreshing -themselves by the murmuring waters of a mountain stream, and after -scattering the affrighted group, helped himself to their repast. - -These stories, told with great vivacity and much embellishment, excited -in a high degree the fervid imaginations of the youthful cavalcade, -causing them as night approached to keep close together. They, however, -did not deter me, who had ever a peculiar fondness for the beautiful in -nature, from loitering somewhat in the rear of my companion to gaze in -wondering admiration upon the grandeur and wild luxuriance of the scene -which on all sides met my eyes. Absorbed in contemplation I was riding -slowly along, when suddenly, and to my great horror and dismay, I found -myself in presence of, apparently, the dreaded tiger of the mountains. -My imagination, roused by the exciting stories of the muleteers, showed -me the spotted brute seated upon his haunches, his sinister eyes gazing -steadily at me over his right shoulder. Notwithstanding this pacific -attitude, a thrill of terror chilled my veins, while in spite of the -cold prevailing on those mountain ranges, heavy drops of perspiration -streamed from my trembling body. The tiger seeming spell-bound with my -sudden apparition, I endeavored to cry aloud for help; but terror had -deprived me of voice. I then concluded to dismount and place the mule -between myself and the tiger, which impulse was suddenly checked as I -caught sight of the yawning precipice beside me. I had therefore no -alternative, other than the ignominious one of sliding down in the rear -of my mule, a feat I rapidly accomplished without in the least -inconveniencing the patient creature, which all the while stood quietly -awaiting my pleasure. At this moment the moon, until then partially -obscured by the dense fog, shone brilliantly upon the scene, when, to my -great mortification and greater relief, I discovered that the ferocious -tiger of my imagination was only the fallen branch of a tree covered -with leaves, which last my fertile fancy had mistaken for the spotted -skin of the dreaded mountain tiger. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -SHOOTING ADVENTURES. - - -We were now in the very midst of the most splendid shooting ground of -the republic, and each day my quest after the feathered inhabitants of -those fine groves was rewarded with an abundant supply of _pavas_, -_guacharacas_, and that most noble and beautiful of all game birds, the -_paujī_ or crested curassow of South America, (Crax alector.) This -fine species is found in all parts of the country, especially in the -woods of the _tierra caliente_, where it can be tracked without -difficulty by the shrill and prolonged whistle with which it calls its -mate, and which can be heard from a long distance. It appears not to -notice the presence of the hunter, allowing itself to be shot down -without making the least effort to avoid the danger. This bird is nearly -the same size as the domestic turkey, and being easily domesticated, -could very well supply the place of that fowl, as the flesh is juicy and -of exquisite flavor. Its plumage is peculiarly rich and beautiful, the -head and neck being white and the rest of its body of a rich olive -brown, excepting the wing tips which are black. An elegant tuft of -curled, glossy black feathers surmounts the head, adding greatly to the -splendor of its appearance. In the more elevated parts of the country -there is another species, the _paujī de piedra_ or cashew-bird, so -called from a singular excrescence on the top of its head, in color a -bluish gray, and bearing some resemblance to a polished nodule of slate. -This bird only inhabits woods growing at about four thousand feet of -elevation, and if possible exceeds in beauty the preceding. Its plumage -of a deep black, with tints of olive green, contrasts exquisitely with -that of the bill and legs, which are respectively of a brilliant scarlet -and deep yellow. They are even more easily domesticated than the -preceding, and are therefore to be met with in many a farm yard of the -Cordillera, where they form one of its most graceful ornaments. - -The _guacharaca_ or South American pheasant may also be classed among -the finest game birds of Venezuela, and is extremely abundant -everywhere. In riding along the solitary roads through the plains and -fertile vales of the _tierra caliente_, the traveller may have often -noticed at all hours of the day and even of the night, more especially -at the approach of rain, a most discordant chattering in harsh and -shrill notes; it is the song of the _guacharaca_, a bird of about the -size of the domestic hen, bearing some resemblance to the female -pheasant, and like it of a chocolate color. It is of a sociable nature, -always congregating in flocks of twenty or thirty. The moment one of the -number leads the chant, all the rest join in chorus, uttering distinctly -in hoarse repetition _guacharaca, guacharaca_; hence the name of this -bird. These cries are invariably responded to by all the flocks in the -neighborhood, so that in a short time the whole valley rings from end to -end with their discordant voices. Like all other gallinaceous birds, it -is very easily domesticated with the _paujies_, _pavas_, _gallinetas_, -and several other wild fowl with which the rural inhabitant loves to -stock his yard. - -In addition to the foregoing, there are also in the Llanos all kinds of -wild pigeons, doves, plovers, and quails, the latter so abundant that -they can easily be killed by the hundred with a stick. And indeed, so -great is the almost endless variety of fine birds in these wilds, that -it would be impossible, within the limits of these pages, to enter into -further detail concerning them. - -Deer were also very plentiful, both in the _mata_, whither they were -attracted by its refreshing shade, and in the meadows around it; but -having no dogs with us, and being unwilling to tire our horses in -unprofitable sport, we refrained from their pursuit. One afternoon, -however, much to my surprise, a merry, clever fellow by the name of -Casimiro, who had followed us from the valleys, entered the camp bending -under the weight of a fine doe which he had killed that afternoon, -together with a buck that an Indian boy was carrying for him. On our -complimenting his extraordinary skill in killing two deer in so short a -space of time, he informed us that he could have brought down any number -of them, and intended retracing his steps at once for more. This proved -no mere boast, for quickly returning to the woods, he soon after again -made his appearance with a similar load, which, seating himself by the -fire, he at once commenced skinning. - -I inquired of Casimiro the occasion of his success; he replied by -producing a tube of bamboo about the thickness of the thumb, one end -being covered with a thin membrane. On blowing through the other end, a -sound precisely resembling the bleating of a young fawn resulted. It is -in this manner that the treacherous hunter decoys the anxious doe, whose -every motion he watches from the place of his concealment behind the -branches of some tree, usually the algarrobo, of whose pods deer are -very fond. This detestable expedient is, I am glad to state, rarely -practised unless by hungry sportsmen; and as we were then in the midst -of plenty, and venison besides not being much relished by the -beef-eating population of the Llanos, we had fortunately no occasion to -resort to it in any of our subsequent deer-shooting adventures. - -Another device much practised by Indians in these cases, consists in -assuming the guise of the great _garzon_ or soldier crane of the pampas, -whose company appears always welcome to deer grazing in the open -prairie. This crane, which I have mentioned in a former chapter, as -being at the least five feet in height, is mounted upon a pair of long -slender legs, giving it the appearance of walking on stilts; their -plumage is a dazzling white, and they have a pouch under the throat of a -brilliant scarlet color. The bill, too, is quite a remarkable feature, -fully a foot long and very wide at the base, which permits of -swallowing at a mouthful large fish, as well as frogs, toads and snakes, -of which last it partakes with equal relish. All that the hunter has to -do, who intends ensnaring his deer with borrowed plumes, is to hide his -own face with a mask, which must have a long bill resembling that of the -crane attached to it. The mask being securely fastened on, he finishes -his toilet by covering his body to his knees with a white garment. - -[Illustration] - -In this simple disguise the hunter, equipped besides with his gun or bow -and arrows, makes straight for the game, careful however to approach it -in a contrary direction to that of the wind, deer possessing peculiarly -acute powers of scent. On one occasion, I was fortunate enough to shoot -three of these shy animals out of a small herd, before the rest took the -alarm. - -Our young _attaché_, Roseliano, who had witnessed the universal success -of these devices, envying the achievements of his elders, determined to -try what he could accomplish for himself in this line. Accordingly, -choosing for his intended victim a fine stag grazing at no great -distance from the camp, he forthwith proceeded on his experiment. Having -no _garzon’s_ beak at hand, nor even a white garment, with which to -personate the feathered dandy of the savannas, he was for some time at a -loss how to approach the game without alarming it, when a malicious -companion persuaded him that he could ensnare the deer equally well if -he presented himself simply _in puris naturalibus_, assuring him that -the animal would indubitably conceive him to be a rare bird or at least -a new species of _garzon_. Roseliano, finally convinced by these -specious representations, quickly denuded himself; then, gun in hand, -and taking all necessary precautions in regard to the wind, which was -blowing quite fresh at the time, immediately gave chase. - -At first the stag appeared to pay little heed to the enticing object, -and allowed it to approach within range; but the moment the gun was -raised, the stag turned round and trotted slowly off, waving his short -tail defiantly. Sometimes he stopped for a little while, seeming to -examine from head to foot this unfeathered biped, afterward resuming his -mastications with perfect nonchalance. At such times Roseliano, with due -precautions, would creep slowly toward him, when invariably the deer, -almost within range, again trotted composedly down the plain, not even -giving his pursuer a chance to aim at him. Occasionally he would turn -about, stamp his tiny hoof upon the hard ground, and again move off -wagging his little tail at him as though to say, “No, you don’t.” - -Thus went each, still eluding still pursuing, for a long distance, -without either seeming at all willing to part company, until the burning -sun began to tell upon the bare skin of the young hunter, who -experienced besides sundry painful reminders from the thorny sensitive -plants under foot. At length growing somewhat desperate, he dashed ahead -and sent a random shot after the deer without success, the ball striking -the ground far short of the mark. The deer seemed now to think he had -received notice to quit, for, to the great disgust of poor Roseliano, he -at once bounded gracefully over the tall grass and disappeared from -view. - -Within a stone’s throw of our camp were several lagoons abounding in -terrapins and turtles, whilst on all sides the savannas teemed with many -delicious quadrupeds. These, on account of their _penchant_ for the -water, have been declared cold-blooded animals by the church, and can in -consequence be eaten as fish; and as it was Holy Week, a grand hunt was -proposed for the purpose of providing the camp with food which should be -wholesome as well for the soul as the body. Accordingly, early on Good -Friday morning the whole disposable force assembled in front of the -ranch; and after a partial organization, all started on foot in -different directions, some in quest of _cachicamos_ or armadillos, -others for _galapagos_ and tortoises, while the less fastidious did not -disdain to try their skill upon those water hogs, the _chigüires_ or -capyvaras. - -The results of the hunt far exceeded our expectation, as in less than -four hours nearly three hundred armadillos, and probably as many -turtles, were brought into camp. The flesh of the _chigüire_ is not much -relished by the Llaneros, although it is excellent for hams when -properly cured and smoked; accordingly the carcasses, the hind quarters -being removed, were left to the turkey buzzards. - -The flesh of the armadillo is most delicious, tasting very much like -young pig; and being always roasted in the shell--a thick cuirass formed -of successive horny plates--all its juices are effectually preserved. It -is, however, very rich eating, from the excess of fatness, and therefore -liable to produce indigestion, if not followed by a good dose of -aguardiente and a strong sauce of Chili peppers. It is also said to -exert very injurious effects on persons predisposed to syphilitic -disorders of the system, developing incipient ulcers and various other -cutaneous diseases. - -[Illustration] - -The armadillo is a harmless, curiously-formed little quadruped, about -the size of a common hedgehog; it burrows in the ground, spending the -greater part of the day in cool retirement, issuing at dusk or very -early in the morning in search of food; this consists principally of -worms, the larvæ of insects or perchance a young snake from the broods -that take shelter among the cells of its subterranean abode--whether by -permission or as intruders, remains to be ascertained. The fact is, -however, that many of these burrows are so full of snakes, that it is -necessary on account of them to exercise considerable caution when -passing near the abodes of armadillos. Two little owls called -_aguaita-caminos_, road-watchers, usually stand like sentinels at the -entrance of these burrows, and by their constant flutterings around the -sportsman, and their uncouth motions, almost invariably succeed in -warning the armadillo. Nevertheless, if the hunter approach in front, he -can always secure it with his hands as its vision in that direction is -entirely obscured by the position of the plates with which the head is -covered. When attacked from the rear or sides, it makes quickly for its -burrow; but if the hunter, however, be sufficiently expert, he may -succeed in getting hold of the long, horny tail of the animal before it -disappears entirely from view. Even then, as this creature possesses the -power of swelling its body when thus attacked, it is rather difficult to -drag it out, unless by some means the size of the burrow can be -enlarged. There is then danger of severe wounds from its sharp claws, as -well as of being bitten by some of the poisonous snakes which share its -home. - -What affinity there is existing between this quadruped and the finny -inhabitants of the water, prompting their classification among amphibia, -I was unable to ascertain; but although the capyvara and several others -placed by the church under that category, possess, it is true, great -powers of resistance while in water, the reverse is assuredly the case -with regard to the armadillo, which always seeks the higher grounds so -as to escape submersion during the great floods; and I have often found -it in the midst of extensive plains where no moisture excepting the dews -of night is to be seen for miles around. - -When all the different parties, participants in the hunting excursion, -were once more seated round the camp fires, it was quite amusing to hear -their accounts of the various incidents connected with it; one had got -hold of a rattlesnake’s tail, mistaking it for that of an armadillo; -another had stumbled over a crocodile while diving for turtles in a -shallow creek; a third had his toe bitten off by caribes; while not a -few experienced more or less severe shocks from electric eels. In front -of many of the fires, soon blazing under the trees, were arrayed on long -wooden spits entire carcasses of the armadillos split along the belly -and kept open by means of cross bars of green boughs. Directly the coals -were sufficiently hot in the centre of the fires, the galapagos were all -beheaded and thrown, still alive, into the midst of the burning embers. -These chelonia, like all other amphibia, are exceedingly tenacious of -life; their sufferings, therefore, must doubtless be great under this -lingering death, as was manifested by their long-continued struggles in -the fire. - -The Llaneros say that these turtles, according to their most exquisite -gastronomers, should be eaten where there is no light, asserting that -they will then be found more rich and juicy; but the actual reason for -this, as I afterward ascertained to my great disgust, was that some of -the choicest morsels are precisely those which to be eaten must not be -seen, as otherwise they would unhesitatingly be rejected. - -There are several varieties of fresh water tortoises in the Apure, an -abundant and wholesome food for the inhabitants. The most common are the -_galapagos_, a large species of terrapin, the _terecay_ and the _arrau_ -or great turtle of the Orinoco, concerning which the celebrated Father -Gumilla wrote in his “Orinoco Illustrated,” that it would be as -difficult to count the grains of sand on the shores of the Orinoco, as -to count the immense number of tortoises which inhabit its margin and -water. Although confined principally to the broad channel of the -Orinoco, the _arraus_ are met with also in great abundance in the Apure, -the Arauca, and most of the other large tributaries of that river; as -also in the Amazon, according to Bates’ statements, who has devoted a -chapter to this magnificent turtle, and to the exciting scenes which -take place during the gathering of their eggs by the Amazonian Indians -and Portuguese traders. As I intend to allude again to this subject, I -will return to their congeners of the flooded lands west of the Orinoco. -To convey a distinct idea of the prodigious abundance of this species, -it may suffice to say that by merely driving a herd of wild cattle or -horses at full speed into any pond of these savannas, the first wave -produced by the sudden splash will heave up thousands of turtles upon -the beach. Another method resorted to in the Llanos for obtaining them, -is by raking in the soft mud in which these chelonia habitually bury -themselves the moment they are alarmed. After this mud becomes -thoroughly dried by the summer’s heat, they remain under its indurated -crust in a dormant state until the commencement of the rainy season. Yet -even here the poor creatures are insecure, as they are not unfrequently -roused from their siesta by the hunter setting fire to the dry water -plants, the ornaments of these natural ponds; at such times breaking -through the earth crust which environs them, they in vain endeavor to -escape their tormentors, who can then pick them up at their leisure. - -In addition to the foregoing, there are two other varieties of tortoises -found amidst the marshes and jungles of the Llanos; they are the -_morrocoy_ or land tortoise, having a hard and rounded shell, and the -_jicotea_, an animal which appears to form the connecting link between -turtles proper and tortoises; both are of excellent flavor, more -especially the former, whose liver, dressed and fried in its own gall, -is undoubtedly superior to that most prized of all epicurean morsels, -_foie gras_. It is very large as compared with the size of the animal, -decreasing however very materially if its owner has had a long fast, -which, as this reptile, like all others of the class, can and does -frequently live a long time without food, has doubtless occasioned the -popular error that it feeds on its own liver when long deprived of other -nourishment. - -During the season of great droughts, the _morrocoy_ seeks the hollow -trunks of trees for shelter, where it lives entirely without nourishment -for several months, until, feeling the dampness produced by the first -showers of spring penetrating his subterranean abode, he moves slowly -out to browse upon the tender shoots of water plants and prairie -lilies. The shell of this tortoise is so hard that nothing short of -heavy blows from an axe can separate the thick plates of which it is -formed, and a locomotive engine might pass over it without producing the -least effect upon its unimpressible tenant. Long after the carcass has -been cut up for cooking, and is in water boiling over the fire, the -pieces are incessantly in motion, and it is not until the boiling has -been continued many successive hours, that the meat is fit for eating. - -The land tortoise does not deposit its eggs in the sand, as is the -practice with its congener of the water, but drops them indiscriminately -into any convenient hole, leaving the care of hatching them to the heat -of the earth. The egg, which is larger than a hen’s, is extremely white, -spherical in form, and very hard. The male is readily distinguished from -the female by a deep depression of its pectoral plate, that of the -female being perfectly even with the ground. - -I have been assured by reliable parties that the blood of the _morrocoy_ -is a specific for neuralgia, if rubbed, while still warm, upon the part -affected. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -MATA TOTUMO. - - -Little was accomplished in the way of hunting during the two weeks we -passed at Mata Gorda, occupying ourselves mainly in building a ranch for -the establishment of a caporal and his family, with corrals attached, -sufficiently spacious to accommodate a large drove. Other parts of the -estate requiring immediate attention, we removed from Mata Gorda to Mata -Totumo, a retired corner of the savannas, whose proximity to other -cattle farms exposed it to the constant depredations of poachers. In -this way vast numbers of our cattle were annually lost to us; it had -accordingly become necessary to establish there also a Fundacion, or -small farm with a resident caporal, who should exercise a strict -surveillance and take charge of a small herd of tame cattle as a nucleus -for a permanent settlement in that exposed frontier. - -Hardly were we established in the new encampment, when a party of our -men in scouring the savanna encountered a band of these cattle poachers, -who had already collected a sufficient drove to make them comfortable -to the year’s end, and were hastening home with their unlawful booty. -Our people immediately gave chase, but succeeded in capturing two only -of the robbers. After whipping these most unmercifully, as is customary -in the Llanos for similar offences, and giving them in addition the -positive assurance that, if again found within the precincts of the -estate, they would fare even worse, the rascals were at length allowed -to depart without further punishment. - -As usual in all our prairie encampments, much time was occupied in -destroying baneful weeds and reptiles. Snakes especially were so -plentiful as to at times greatly endanger our barefooted community. That -habit is second nature, was certainly strikingly exemplified in the -present instance, for in a few days we came to notice the heretofore -dreaded snakes as little as though so many harmless earthworms. Our -fears, if not their cause, being at length entirely removed, we next -erected a shelter from the inclemency of the weather for our abundant -luggage, no small cause of anxiety, situated as we were at a long -distance from the source of any fresh supplies. Afterwards we commenced -raising corrals for our increasing herds. Fortunately building materials -were very abundant; and the bamboo, that graceful representative of the -grasses, was of the greatest utility. Its tall and pliant stems afforded -all that was necessary for rafters and fence rails, serving also various -other uses. To duly estimate the size attained by this giant grass of -the tropics, it is necessary to understand that some stems reach the -astonishing height of thirty or even forty feet, with a corresponding -thickness of six or seven inches at their base; and as these bamboos -spring in immense clusters from the ground, they grow at last into an -aspect which is truly beautiful. Innumerable slender leaves of a -delicate sea green color, clothe in masses the tops of these huge stems, -curving them downward by their weight, and giving them, especially when -sporting with the soft breezes of the pampas, the appearance of waving -plumes of most magnificent proportions, rising, bending, swaying in -long, graceful sweeps over the tops of the surrounding trees. An elegant -writer, describing this majestic Queen of the Grasses, has beautifully -said, “Grace, delicacy, richness of form and color, every element of -vegetable beauty, appear combined in this luxuriant dweller by the -streams of the tropics. Nothing is more cheerful to the eye of the -heated and wearied traveller, than the deep rocky basins formed by -mountain streams when filled with water, and overshadowed by clumps of -bamboo. They often lean over the stream on one side and arch the pathway -on the other, excluding almost every ray of sunlight from the cool -recesses below. Their delicate brittle leaves are stirred by the tiniest -zephyr, and bend to the pressure of the butterfly and the bee. Sometimes -clumps of bamboo stand on either side of the roads and form long vaulted -passages, as if by fretted Gothic arches, with here and there branches -of rich flowers and leaves hanging down like beautiful corbels. When the -gale of the hurricane comes, these groves of bamboo exchange an aspect -of beauty for that of grandeur. They are heaved and tossed like the -billows of the sea, and their rich foliage driven in every direction -appears like surges breaking on the rocks.” - - * * * * * - -No sooner was the majada in readiness, than we commenced the somewhat -laborious, but at the same time pleasingly exciting business of filling -it, for which purpose we called upon the neighboring cattle farms of La -Yagua and Caucagua for assistance. So effectual were our efforts, that -in a few days we had collected two thousand animals for the brand, most -of which, having long passed the age when this operation is usually -performed, gave us in consequence a great deal of trouble. Occasionally, -by way of relaxation from our labors, we busied ourselves in training -the boys in the manly art of _torear_, or the scarcely less dangerous -one of breaking in wild horses, on which especially the hardy dwellers -of the Llanos eminently pride themselves. During our sojourn at Mata -Totumo, its owner became concerned in an incident highly illustrative of -this peculiar pride, so universal a trait among these children of Nature -and the Sun, illustrative no less of the almost entire freedom from -conventional restraint which exists between master and servant in the -Llanos. Our Leader had taken a strong fancy to a beautiful cream colored -horse, which, although partially trained to the saddle, missed no -opportunity of practising some of his old tricks, a favorite one being -apparently to unseat, whenever possible, his rider. This amusement he -several times indulged in at the expense of his master, and, as it -chanced, always in presence of his pet caporal, Sarmiento, who -invariably gave _carte blanche_ to his own witticisms on such occasions. -To these the good-humored master replied one day by challenging him to -ride the horse round the camp on a run without being thrown, a dollar to -be added to his wages if successful; if the reverse, the same amount to -be thereafter deducted. “Done,” cried Sarmiento, extending his hand -familiarly to his master; and without more words, having blindfolded the -horse by means of a sliding leather strap attached to the bridle, called -_tapaojos_, he placed upon him his own saddle and holsters, and the next -moment was firmly seated on his back. Then, removing the bandage, he at -once commenced belaboring the refractory stallion with his _chaparro_, -showering such powerful blows upon his haunches, that the terrified -animal rushed headlong through the camp, rearing, plunging, and tearing -along the plain at a fearful pace. All in vain were the efforts of the -nigh frantic steed to shake the unmerciful Centaur from his back; the -poor animal had to strive against one with whom contention was -ineffectual, and who finally brought him back triumphantly to the camp -as submissively meek as he had previously been savage and refractory. - - * * * * * - -Shortly after our arrival in that secluded spot, came the Corporation of -Mantecal, under whose jurisdiction we were, accompanied by many of the -inhabitants, to pay their respects and personal regards to the former -chieftain of the Llanos and late President of the Republic, tendering -him at the same time the hospitalities of the town--a few straggling -huts. It was a surprise party, nevertheless we acquitted ourselves with -becoming hospitality. Two fat calves were immediately slaughtered; and -these, together with numbers of armadillos, galapagos, and a fine sow -from the swamps near by, formed a banquet not unworthy a London board of -aldermen. A hastily constructed table, its top made from laths of bamboo -and tied with _bejucos_ or creepers to four rough posts set in the -ground, was soon raised under the trees; the broad leaves of the wild -plantain formed the table cloth, while the shells of galapagos served -the double purpose of plates and dishes, entirely in keeping with the -rural entertainment. - -Here, as well as at Mata Gorda, game was most abundant, and we could at -all times count upon a ready supply with which to vary the more -substantial dishes. Deer were plentiful in the surrounding woods; but I -found them, after killing several, too thin at this season to be worth -hunting, especially as the savannas were teeming with the finest cattle -and wild hogs; the latter are in good condition at all times, and each -day our men brought to camp the spoils of one or more _capones_ hanging -from the saddles. - -The ant-bear or great ant-eater, a stout and powerful animal measuring -six feet from the snout to the end of the tail, also ranged these -prairies; but although his flesh is well-flavored and easily procured, -it is never used for food, owing to his repulsive appearance. “He is -chiefly found in the inmost recesses of the forest, and seems partial to -the low and swampy parts near creeks, where the trocly-tree grows. -There - -[Illustration] - -he goes up and down in quest of ants, of which there is never the least -scarcity, so that he soon obtains a sufficient supply of food with very -little trouble. He cannot travel fast; man is superior to him in speed. -Without swiftness to enable him to escape from his enemies; without -teeth, the possession of which would assist him in self-defence; and -without the power of burrowing in the ground, by which he might conceal -himself from his pursuers, he still is capable of ranging through these -wilds in perfect safety; nor does he fear the fatal pressure of the -serpent’s fold, or the teeth of the famished jaguar. Nature has formed -his fore-legs wonderfully thick, and strong, and muscular, and armed his -feet with three tremendous sharp and crooked claws. Whenever he seizes -an animal with these formidable weapons, he hugs it close to his body, -and keeps it there till it dies through pressure, or through want of -food. Nor does the ant-bear in the meantime suffer much from loss of -aliment, as it is a well-known fact that he can go longer without food -than, perhaps, any other animal, excepting the land-tortoise. His skin -is of a texture that perfectly resists the bite of a dog; his hinder -parts are protected by thick and shaggy hair, while his immense tail is -large enough to cover his whole body.”[31] - -Numerous also were the foot-prints of the jaguar; yet, in my frequent -perambulations through the forest, it was never my fortune to encounter -this despot of the howling wilderness, although I one day mistook for -his voice that of the _titirijí_ or great horned owl of the pampas. I -found him perched among the branches of a _guamo_ tree, inclining his -large head toward me with a scrutinizing look peculiar to those birds, -as if taking mental notes of my appearance. Whenever I remained -perfectly quiet he gave utterance to his unearthly hootings, the woods -echoing and re-echoing the dismal sounds. The _titirijí_ would seem to -be possessed of some ventriloquial power, for his voice, loud and deep -as it was, yet appeared to issue from a distance. The frequent effect of -this peculiarity is to mislead the unaccustomed hunter, who by it is -readily induced to wander on and on in unavailing search. Having -contemplated at leisure this singular bird, I finally levelled my -fowling-piece at him, and brought him down with a charge of buckshot -which I had destined for a deer. It proved a very fine specimen, with -wings as large as those of a good sized turkey, while two horn-like -tufts of feathers rose on each side of the head, which, in addition to -the large, glaring eyes, gave him a truly ferocious aspect. His food -consists of all kinds of wild fowl; however, not being over scrupulous, -he devours with equal relish rats, mice and snakes; while even monkeys -of the smaller sort are often his prey. This owl inhabits for the most -part the loneliest and gloomiest portions of the forest; but is -occasionally seen solemnly watching from some convenient tree-top the -various inhabitants of the farmyard. - - -MANTECAL. - -In compliance with an invitation tendered to the General and his suite -by the good people of Mantecal, we started in a few days to visit their -village, not far distant from our encampment. When within three miles of -the place, we were welcomed by a large concourse of the inhabitants -coming to escort us. Almost the whole population turned out, saluting -our entry into the town with the firing of blunderbuses and other -firearms, and further gracing it with a most discordant uproar of -rickety harps, violins, and bandolas, enough to have driven frantic the -“Enraged Musician” of Hogarth. - -Mantecal was at one time quite a flourishing town, notwithstanding the -wars which ravaged it for many successive years; but since the great -epidemic of 1832, and subsequently, it has been well nigh depopulated, -while the few inhabitants who were not swept away by the scourge, -abandoned their homes. Thus the once busy community became almost a -dismal wilderness, - - “Where at each step the stranger fears to wake - The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake.” - -At the time of our visit to Mantecal but few houses remained standing, -sad monuments of past prosperity. We spent three days there, and the -inhabitants, hospitable in spite of their miserable condition, -entertained us to the utmost of their ability. Not only did they provide -the best accommodations the village afforded, but treated us in addition -to a nightly fandango, in which people of all castes and conditions -joined. These festivities ended, we gladly returned to our prairie home, -the more especially that the important duties we had there to perform -would probably delay our return to Maracay several weeks longer; also -the rainy season was fast approaching and each day we had warnings of -the coming tempest then brewing in the south. - -We continued to hunt those savannas while there were any _orejanos_ to -brand, adding largely in the meantime to our stock of reserved oxen for -the markets of the upper country, which had already increased to a -considerable drove. We also made several excursions to the neighboring -cattle farms for the purpose of separating from their herds all the -_orejanos_ whose mothers bore our brand. Judging from the number of -calves there collected, and without taking into consideration those -yearly discarded by the mothers, it was easy to perceive that the -revenues of those estates were greatly increased at our cost, their -original stock being vastly inferior to ours. In this manner many of the -minor cattle farms enriched themselves at the expense of wealthy -neighbors. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -MONKEY NOTIONS. - - -The _guamos_ were now in full bearing, their luscious pods a grateful -refreshment to the heated and thirsty rambler through the woods. Monkeys -and macaws are particularly fond of this fruit; and on the tops of all -the highest guamo-trees could be seen family reunions of these -chatterers apparently discussing the merits of the crop. - -Of monkeys, the most conspicuous in the Llanos are the _araguato_, or -howling monkey (Simia ursina), and the _machango_ (S. sajous), this last -a small grey monkey, very common in most parts of Venezuela. On account -of its wonderful agility and vivacious disposition the machango is much -esteemed as a pet by the inhabitants, many of whom keep one or more tied -to a post in the court-yard, where they enact to some extent the rôle of -buffoon to the whole family. They are, however, very mischievous -creatures, doing every possible damage in the house the moment they are -at large; but are especially destructive to cacao plantations and -cornfields. When about to commence their depredations in these, they -usually assemble in great numbers and exercise many precautions; the -first step is to station several of their number as sentinels upon the -highest trees, or any elevated situation overlooking the avenues leading -to the plantation, whence they warn the others of approaching danger. -The next proceeding is that of placing those of the females--which on -account of their young are prevented from assisting in the foray--in -some safe retreat. The precautions completed, they invest the cornfield -in earnest, pulling down the stocks and tearing off ears of corn with -astonishing expedition, chattering, laughing, and yelling all the while -like a set of mischievous boys in the absence of the dominie. When they -have accumulated a sufficient number of ears, they split the husks, and -tying them in pairs by means of an ingenious knot peculiar to -themselves, called in consequence monkey-tie, they throw them across -their backs, and thus equipped hasten to hide their booty in some safe -nook difficult of discovery by the neglectful majordomo, who not -unfrequently conceals his own defalcations in the yield of the -plantation by ascribing the deficiency to the thieving monkeys. It often -happens that while these last are engaged in their depredations, they -are surprised by the owner of the cornfield, who, eluding the vigilance -of the scouts, suddenly appears and pours a shower of shot into their -midst. Then with shrill cries of alarm the whole troop scamper off -helter-skelter, tumbling, pitching or hobbling along on all fours, but -never dropping a particle of their plunder. The belief obtains in the -Llanos, that when at length safe in their haunts, the careless sentinels -are arraigned before a council of elders, who after due deliberation -condemn them, after which the guilty parties are tied to a tree and -soundly whipped. - -No less remarkable is their ingenious method of crossing torrents and -other minor streams which they often encounter in their ceaseless -perambulations through the forest. As among men, all cannot swim with -equal facility, so it is also with monkeys; accordingly the leaders of -the troop, generally the strongest of the party, climb to the spreading -branches of some tree projecting over the stream; one of them then -twists his tail firmly around a branch, and letting his body hang, -seizes upon the tail of the nearest comrade, who in his turn performs -the same operation with the next, and so on until a sort of chain or -living pendulum is formed, which in obedience to the laws of equilibrium -oscillates slowly but constantly from their combined efforts to reach -the opposite bank. This finally achieved, the last monkey secures -himself to the most convenient tree. The others of the chain, now -disengaged from the tree at the opposite side of the stream, wade -through the water, each helped by his neighbor, assisted likewise by the -current. Some are, however, occasionally drowned, the last one in the -chain especially, which circumstance has probably given rise to the -popular proverb, _el último mono siempre se ahoga_--the last monkey is -sure to be drowned. Sagacious as these animals undoubtedly are, it is -often very easy to entrap them. One of the simplest methods consists in -cutting a number of holes in a gourd barely large enough to admit of -squeezing in the monkey’s hands. The gourd thus prepared is filled with -corn and secured to the trunk of a tree, then shaken violently for a -time so as to attract the attention of the monkeys, and a few grains of -corn scattered in the neighborhood of the trap. The gourd is in fact the -dinner bell of the monkeys, which no sooner hear the well known sound, -than they descend in great numbers from their aerial homes, and each in -turn seizing the gourd, grasps through one of the holes a handful of -corn. ‘But in vain do they struggle to withdraw their hands without -relinquishing the prize; and at this critical moment, the concealed -author of their mishap suddenly makes his appearance, and tying their -hands carries them off to his cottage in the woods. - -More taciturn and retiring in his habits than the preceding, the -_araguato_--a large reddish monkey of the ring-tail genus--exhibits none -of those mischievous tricks which characterize the former, never -approaching the haunts of man nor ravaging the fields of the industrious -farmer. His only food consists of wild fruits, gathered as, with -astonishing rapidity, he springs from branch to branch. All the limbs of -this great monkey are admirably adapted to his roving habits; in these -he is assisted very materially by his long prehensile tail, which acts -the part of a fifth hand. - -The roar of the _araguato_ is so extraordinary, that persons who hear it -for the first time invariably imagine it that of the jaguar. I think I -may assert without fear of mistake, that it can be heard at the -distance of three miles, especially in damp and cloudy weather. “This -most striking of all animal voices is heard occasionally at sunrise and -sunset, and sometimes in the heat of the day, but more frequently during -the darkness of night. When near, the roar is terrific; a naturalist has -compared it to the tempest howling through rocky caverns. It is a voice -so unearthly that, heard unexpectedly for the first time, it would fill -the mind with the most melancholy forebodings.”[32] - -“The Indians pretend,” observes Humboldt, that when the _araguatos_ fill -the forest with their howlings, there is always one that chants as -leader to the chorus. The observation is pretty accurate. During a long -interval one solitary and strong voice is generally distinguished, till -its place is taken by another voice of a different pitch. We may observe -from time to time the same instinct of imitation among frogs, and almost -all animals which live together and exert their voices in union. The -missionaries further assert that when a female among the _araguatos_ is -on the point of bringing forth, the choir suspends its howlings till the -moment of the birth of the young. I could not myself judge of the -accuracy of this assertion; but I do not believe it to be entirely -unfounded. I have observed that when an extraordinary incident--the -moans, for instance, of a wounded _araguato_--fixed the attention of the -band, the howlings were for some minutes suspended. The face of this -singular monkey is nearly concealed by a sandy, bushy beard, extending -below and projecting considerably beyond his chin, giving him a very -dignified appearance. So striking is their resemblance to the human -species, that once, after having shot one, I almost felt as though I had -committed a murder. When I raised the poor creature from the ground upon -which he had fallen, his large grey eyes were bathed in tears, and every -feature expressed the deepest agony. Casting upon me a most eloquent -look of reproach, he endeavored to push me aside; but too much enfeebled -by his wound, lay down and calmly resigned himself to the scrutinizing -gaze of my English companions, who discussed and disputed about the -division of his still panting body--one wanting the skin for a smoking -cap and the drum of the throat for the bowl of his pipe, while the other -would be contented with nothing less than the whole carcass. For my own -part, I only desired to get out of sight of the dying creature; and -shouldering my gun, departed in a mood which determined me never again -to lift my hand against these innocent wild men of the woods. - -South America may be said to be, _par excellence_, the home of the -monkey tribe. Besides the foregoing, the great forest south of the -pampas of Apure is filled with the cries, yells, and roarings by night -and day--for some are nocturnal and others diurnal--of countless troops -of the various families of these quadrumana, roaming through it, from -the mysterious _Salvaje_ (supposed by many to be a great and powerful -monkey, who, Gorilla-like, seizes upon defenceless women and carries -them off to some inaccessible tree in the forest), down to the tiny -marmoset, not larger than a flying-squirrel, but all possessing more or -less that degree of intelligence and cunning so nearly akin to human -instinct. Some are white-faced, with the rest of the body black; others -black-faced, forming a curious contrast with a thick head of hair -perfectly white. Bates observed on the Upper Amazon a very rare species -with a scarlet face, making the animal look pretty much like an Indian -bedaubed with arnatto,[33] as is the practice of the aborigines in a -wild state. Some have blue noses; others a dark ring around the eyes, -giving the creature a most ludicrous appearance, as if adorned with a -pair of spectacles. - -In the same region is found another curious genus of monkeys, namely, -the _owl-faced night apes_, described by Bates and Humboldt as being of -small size, the body about a foot long and the tail fourteen inches, and -are thickly clothed with soft, grey, and brown hair, similar in -substance to that of the rabbit. They sleep all day long in hollow -trees, and come forth to prey on insects, and eat fruits, only in the -night. Their physiognomy reminds one of an owl, or tiger-cat; the face -is round and encircled by a ruff of whitish fur. Bates had one of these -animals given him by a _compadre_, as a present from his newly-baptized -godson, and he describes it as being a great favorite with every one, -from the cleanliness of its habits and the prettiness of its features -and ways; and the Municipal Judge of Ega, Don Carlos Mariana, had -another species of the same genus, which was most amusingly tame, -delighting to be caressed by all persons who came into the house, and at -night sleeping with his master in his own hammock, and nestling in his -bosom half the day as he lay reading. - -A very striking feature of most South American monkeys is the strong -resemblance they bear to the Indian race, just as those of Africa -resemble the negro, and those of the Indian Archipelago the Malay race -of men. Some of them look so much like Indians, that one cannot help -imagining there exists a near relationship between these dwellers of the -forest. The _capuchin_ of the Orinoco, which Waterton has made so -celebrated, under the vague appellation of _nondescript_, and the _tití_ -of the same locality, may be mentioned as exceptions to the rule, the -former on account of a long, bushy beard, and soft, glossy black head of -hair, nicely parted in the middle, like a refined exquisite, and the -latter with its finely-modelled head and most expressive features, which -added to a high degree of intelligence and sprightly restlessness -possessed by the little creature, make it a favorite pet, with ladies -especially, when reduced to domestic life. The _tití_ is a medium-sized -monkey, with hair of a golden yellow; and what adds to its attraction as -a pet, is its cleanly habits, so unlike those of its congeners, washing -its hands whenever it comes near water, which makes them look at all -times like those of a well-nursed child. But, woe to the elegantly -furnished boudoir, if it should contrive to get loose, which it often -does in spite of precautions, for it will prove a perfect _enfant -terrible_ amongst the choicest trinkets of feminine adornment, smashing -everything within its reach, and examining into every nook and corner of -the wardrobe with perfect infantile curiosity. On the other hand, it -will completely rid the house of spiders and other like vermin, for -which tropical climates are famous, not even sparing the favorite -songster in its cage, for it is quite omnivorous in its tastes. Humboldt -relates of one he kept in his canoe, during his tedious exploration of -these rivers, that it would take particular pleasure in looking over the -plates of a work on Natural History, which the great philosopher used to -turn over occasionally for his own and his pet’s amusement; sitting -itself on the lap of its master, it would look intently on the figures -of the various animals with as much interest as a child would evince, -under like circumstances, but without betraying any especial emotion, -until it came to the plate representing the insects. Although the -engravings were not colored, the _tití_ would now advance its little -hand in the hope of catching a spider, a grasshopper, or a wasp, -whenever it perceived one of these insects, of which it is particularly -fond. It remained perfectly indifferent when it was shown engravings of -skeletons or heads of mammiferous animals. “No other monkey,” adds -Humboldt, “has so much the physiognomy of a child as the _tití_; there -is the same expression of innocence, the same playful smile, the same -rapidity in the transition from joy to sorrow. Its large, handsome eyes -are instantly filled with tears when it is seized with fear.” Even in -the wild state, the _tití_ evinces a degree of cunning seldom found in -others of its class. An instance of this is shown in the manner in which -it robs the bee colony not only of its rich stores of sweet honey, but -also of its industrious tenants; stationing itself at the mouth of the -beehive--usually in the hollow branch of some tree in the forest--the -_tití_ catches and eats up every member of the busy colony as they go in -and out on their laborious errands. When no more insects can be -obtained, and knowing instinctively that within that mysterious abode is -to be found something sweeter still, the little imp diligently commences -to dig into the aperture until a passage wide enough for the hand is -made, and then commences the work of destruction upon grubs and -honey-combs. Should these be placed too far down the opening to be -reached with the hand, the _tití_ introduces its tail--which is -considerably longer than its arms--into the deposit of honey, and -withdrawing it, well bedaubed with the coveted prize, commences to enjoy -it with great gusto. - -Isidore Geoffrey St. Hilaire relates of another individual of this -genus, that “it distinguished between different objects depicted on an -engraving. M. Audouin showed it the portraits of a cat and a wasp; at -these it became very much terrified; whereas, at the sight of a figure -of a grasshopper or beetle, it precipitated itself on the picture, as if -to seize the objects there represented.” - -Bates mentions another rare species of the same genus, first described -by Humboldt, which was, if possible, more playful and intelligent than -any of the preceding. “This rare and beautiful little monkey is only -seven inches in length, exclusive of the tail. It is named _leoninus_, -on account of the long brown mane which depends from the neck, and which -gives it very much the appearance of a diminutive lion. In the house -where it was kept it was familiar with every one; its greatest pleasure -seemed to be to climb about the bodies of different persons who entered. -The first time I went in, it ran across the room straight-way to the -chair on which I had sat down, and climbed up to my shoulder; arrived -there, it turned round and looked into my face, showing its little -teeth, and chattering as though it would say, ‘Well, and how do _you_ -do?’ It showed more affection toward its master than toward strangers, -and would climb up to his head a dozen times in the course of an hour, -making a great show every time of searching there for certain -animalcula.” - -The same writer describes the ingenious mode of obtaining live -specimens, as practised by Indian hunters. “The mother, as in other -species of the monkey order, carries her young on her back. Individuals -are obtained alive by shooting them with the blow-pipe and arrows tipped -with diluted urarí poison. They run a considerable distance after being -pierced, and it requires an experienced hunter to track them. He is -considered the most expert who can keep pace with a wounded one, and -catch it in his arms when it falls exhausted. A pinch of salt, the -antidote to the poison, is then put in its mouth, and the creature -revives.” - -As I write this in the quiet seclusion of the country, I hear among the -trees surrounding one of the finest mansions in Connecticut, the -twittering chatter of another little monkey, or marmoset, a _tití_ of -the coast of Cartagena, which I procured from hence not long ago. It is -quite small, of a reddish-brown color, with a face resembling more an -African negro (for it is jet black) than the aborigines of the opposite -coast. A thick woolly coat of white hair covers its head, so that at a -distance the little creature looks as if ornamented with a cap of -snow-white feathers. Enjoying with myself the freedom of the hospitable -mansion, it is allowed to roam at pleasure among the branches of the -trees, but as the sun goes down, it invariably seeks the comforts of its -bed, prepared by its kind mistress, inside a market-basket in her own -room. Monito--this is its name--is an early riser, which makes it rather -inconvenient for the other inmates of the room; for, although the -windows are left open through the night, it will not stir until its -breakfast has been placed before the little scamp, who, in the meantime, -keeps such squealing and twittering as to rouse “Nini” and her mamma. -Its hunger satisfied, it bounds away to the tree-tops, leaping from -branch to branch with astonishing agility, which never fails to attract -a crowd of squirrels, which, mistaking it for one of their tribe, run -towards the stranger; but no sooner do they perceive the jetty phyz and -snowy locks of Don Monito, than, with one yell of astonishment, and the -utmost horror depicted in their countenance, they scamper off to a -respectable distance. Then follows a sort of inquiring colloquy between -both parties, all chatting at the same time, and making the air resound -all the while with the chirping palaver. It does not get beyond this, -however, for, at the first advance made on either side, one of the -parties, or both, scamper off ingloriously, thus verifying the saying-- - - “He who fights and runs away - Lives to fight another day.” - -Not satisfied with the abundant fare of spiders caught around the roof, -Monito comes regularly to the house at certain hours, to be fed on more -dainty food, consisting of bits of sugar, cake, and delicious grapes, -fresh from the grapery, which the thoughtful ladies of the mansion have -in readiness for their guest. At times it pays a visit to the laundress, -at her establishment, for whom it has evinced a strong attachment, -owing, I suspect, to the fact that said dame invariably treats the -favorite to a good slice of bread and butter, of which it seems to be -very fond also. Selecting a comfortable place in some corner of the -room, it spends an hour or so chatting to the worthy laundress all the -while in a language only intelligible to itself. I fear, however, that -the country air of a northern climate does not quite agree with the -little South-American, for it has been observed, at times, in the -morning, shaking from head to foot, and seeking some convenient place on -the roof of the piazza, where it can have the full benefit of the sun’s -rays, a sure sign of a coming attack of chills and fever. This -circumstance, and the fact of its having become more irritable and -morose than usual, has induced me to procure, from a friend in town, -another small monkey, in whose company it came from South America, -although of a different species, to see if the presence of its former -associate will restore its spirits; but to no purpose, for, after a fair -trial, we find that the attentions of this last, which is a most -restless and mischievous creature, pulling the invalid’s tail and -silvery tufts of hair, whenever they are brought together, instead of -proving a comfort to Monito, throws it into violent fits. - -The monkey in question is the _cari-blanco_, white-faced, of the River -Sinu, a higher grade of ape than the marmosets, and is, in consequence, -one of the most intelligent individuals of the family. It is really -entertaining to see such a small creature aping childhood so well as to -amuse itself and the rest of the family whose hospitality it enjoys, -with a doll and some marbles which it stole from the baby; and one of -the ladies having shown it a musical toy, which she blew to attract its -notice, the mimicking creature at once snatched the toy from her hand, -and immediately applied it to its mouth, endeavoring to produce the same -sounds, although without effect; whereupon it tried a like experiment on -the doll--which it carries constantly under its arm--but with no better -results. Another source of amusement is derived from a kitten belonging -to the baby, the sight of which produced at first as much astonishment -and curiosity as the interview between Monito and the squirrels brought -about. Now they are as good friends as if they had known each other a -lifetime; so much so that the baby finds it difficult to separate her -pussy from the dreaded monkey, which “Nini” abominates ever since Monito -bit her badly, for want of experience on her part in dealing with these -spiteful creatures. - -It is a fact worthy of notice, that most monkeys, especially those of a -higher grade, manifest on all occasions a strong attachment to young -animals, especially puppies and kittens, caressing and handling them -with the same care that a human being bestows on the young of their own -kind. I once obtained, in Costa Rica, a large female monkey of the -ring-tail species, which, in intelligence and _monerias_ (monkey tricks) -surpassed any creature of this description I have yet seen or heard of; -so much so that Herr Müller, a German baker of San José, who owned the -pet, had given her the name of “Panchita,” or Little Frances; and so -captivated was I too by Miss Panchita, that I at once entered into -negotiations with the baker for her purchase. But of this more hereafter -in the _Second Series_ of these sketches. - -Well, said Panchita was, like the rest of her class, particularly fond -of puppies; but not possessing sufficient discrimination to distinguish -between the ages of animals, and judging of this only through their -size, she seized, on one occasion, a small poodle, which happened to -pass near her, mistaking it for a puppy, and pressing it to her breast -with appropriate demonstrations of motherly solicitude, endeavored to -induce the dog to avail itself of the proffered donation; but a bite -from the ungrateful chap warned the would-be nurse of the dangers -arising from too close an intimacy with strangers. Poor Panchita! Having -brought her along with me to New York, and placed her in Barnum’s -celebrated boarding-school for dumb beasts from all parts of the world, -she shared the fate of the “Happy Family” during the disastrous fire -which consumed that renowned establishment. - -As an instance of the affection and intelligence displayed by these -singular creatures, I will mention here another South American monkey, -from the Upper Amazon river, of which the indefatigable collector of -natural history, Mr. Bates, says, alluding to one possessed by a -neighbor of his at Ega: “My friend was a tailor, and the little pet used -to spend the greater part of the day seated on his shoulder, while he -was at work on his board. It showed, nevertheless, great dislike to -strangers, and was not on good terms with any other member of my -friend’s household than himself, I saw no monkey that showed so strong a -personal attachment as this gentle, timid, silent little creature. The -eager and passionate Cebi seem to take the lead of all South American -monkeys in intelligence and docility, and the Coaitá has perhaps the -most gentle and impressive disposition; but the Parauacú, although a -dull, cheerless animal, excels all in this quality of capacity of -attachment to individuals of our own species. It is not wanting in -intelligence as well as moral goodness, proof of which was furnished one -day by an act of our little pet. My neighbor had quitted his house in -the morning, without taking Parauacú with him, and the little creature -having missed its friend, and concluded, as it seemed, that he would be -sure to come to me, both being in the habit of paying me a daily visit -together, came straight to my dwelling, taking a short cut over gardens, -trees, and thickets, instead of going the roundabout way of the street. -It had never done this before, and we knew the route it had taken only -from a neighbor having watched its movements. On arriving at my house, -and not finding its master, it climbed to the top of my table, and sat -with an air of quiet resignation waiting for him. Shortly afterwards my -friend entered, and the gladdened pet then jumped to its usual perch on -his shoulder.” - -I will conclude this chapter--already, I fear, too long--with some -further remarks respecting the _Salvaje_, or “Wild Man of America,” as -it is called by those who, to this day, believe that such -_nondescript_--for no one seems to have ever seen it, except the -footprints--exists in the wilds of Venezuela. Both Father Gumilla and -Humboldt allude to the belief entertained by the people of those regions -in the existence of a great anthropoid ape, which was reputed to build -huts, carry off women, and devour jealous husbands. It is curious, -however, to see how these two great expounders of nature’s wonders -endeavor to solve the mystery. While the philosopher of the nineteenth -century explains the “fable,” as he calls it, by suggesting the -existence in these wilds of “one of those large bears, the footprints of -which resemble those of man, and which are believed to carry off -women,” the devout philosopher of nearly two centuries ago boldly -ascribes the doings of the dreaded creature to no other individual than -the Devil himself, ever anxious to do all possible mischief among -Christians, especially those of the newly-organized missions of the -Upper Orinoco and Meta rivers; in proof of this the good missionary -father tells us that, “On one occasion, the infernal voice was -distinctly heard by Capt. Don Domingo Zorrilla, a native of Rioja, in -Spain, exhorting, from the top of a palm tree, the Gentile Indians, who -were ready to come out of the forest and become good Christians, not to -do it.” And, adds the credulous historian: “Alarmed with this terrific -noise, the valiant captain inquired of the Christian cacique who -accompanied him, from whence proceeded those frightful sounds? to which -the cacique replied, that these were the utterances of the Devil, which -the captain believed to be true, so great was the internal horror which -he felt; and I too believed it, by the faith I had in the great veracity -of said captain, and other unmistakable proofs I perceived afterwards at -the distance of only two leagues from the river Ubocá, all of which -happened on the 23d of February, 1716.” - -Notwithstanding the strong faith entertained by the narrator on the -“great veracity of the valiant captain,” I am of opinion that the roar -of a well-organized band of _araguatos_ was mistaken on this occasion -for the utterances of his Infernal Majesty. - -Still, the story of the _Salvaje_ is not altogether discredited, even by -scientific men of high standing; among the latter I may mention the -accomplished author of the “Romance of Natural History,” who not only -questions the authority of Humboldt in denying the existence of a great -anthropomorphous monkey in America, but boldly comes in support of those -who believe in this possible phenomena. I quote his words: “But it might -be permitted, in return, to ask what “large bear” is known to inhabit -Venezuela; and whether it is true that bears’ footsteps have a signal -resemblance to those of men; and that bears especially attack women. Is -not such a bear in South America quite as gratuitous as the monkey -himself? And, since species of _quadrumana_ are characteristic of the -forests of that region, may it not be possible that some one rivalling -man in stature and strength, may there exist, as well as in Africa and -the Oriental Archipelago? The mighty gorilla himself has only just been -introduced to us.”[34] - -[Illustration: AMONG THE CROCODILES.] - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -AMONG THE CROCODILES. - - -Having by this time completed our arrangements at Mata Totumo, we broke -up our camp on the 15th of March and departed for Los Laureles, the -ancient site of another cattle farm, now quite deserted, on the banks of -the river Matiyure. - -We found the house in ruins, and only a few remaining posts marking the -boundary of the former corrals. The first duty, therefore, was that of -repairing the fences, an operation which necessitated several days’ hard -labor. Meanwhile I found much enjoyment in exploring the woody banks of -the river, the wildness of whose aspect had for me a peculiar charm. -They were my daily resort, where, encompassed by the glorious solitude, -I essayed to picture for others those lovely scenes which still perfume -the shrine of memory in all their dewy freshness. To one who loves “the -cool sequestered haunts of Nature,” no spot could be more charming, -nothing more inspiring than to recline under the venerable shade of some -wide-branched guamo uplooking to the many-tinted clouds as they sweep -in solemn majesty beneath the blue veil of heaven, and seem to melt into -the tree tops in the distance--trees whose gigantic height and size, -wall with magnificent vegetation the steep banks rising on either side -of the river, mirrored in its tranquil surface. The harsh scream of the -heron, or the ominous hootings of the tiger-owl, alone wake the echoes -where else - - “All things are calm, and fair, and passive--Earth - Looks as if lulled upon an angel’s lap - Into a breathless, dewy sleep.” - -Yet is this beautiful river celebrated for the number and size of its -crocodiles. As I sat sketching on the banks, I could perceive them -gliding slowly under the still waters, the upper part of the head alone -visible, and seeming to watch me with an evil eye. The beach being -strewn with their egg shells, I concluded this to be a favorite resort -with them during the breeding season. The female lays about forty eggs -in a hole which she digs in the sand, leaving to the hot sun the care of -hatching them. These eggs, twice as large as those of the turkey, are -considered a great delicacy by the Indians and jaguars, who frequently -purloin them before they are hatched. - -The _caricari_ is another great enemy of young crocodiles, attacking -them as they come out of the shell. After they betake themselves to the -water, the older ones, prompted no doubt by motives of family pride to -keep them within their own circle, swallow these tender members, thus -preventing all other intimacies. Notwithstanding this admirable -provision of Divine Wisdom, and a constant war maintained by man and -beast against them, they are so numerous in some charcos of the river -that, if stationary, their bodies would completely bridge its surface -from bank to bank. - -[Illustration] - -Despite their great voracity, the mother exhibits some degree of -tenderness toward her offspring. Possessed, in this case, of an instinct -almost infallible, she returns at a period when incubation is completed, -and assists her young in extricating themselves from the shell. Unlike -the eggs of birds, crocodiles’ eggs are soft and pliable as those of the -turtle, yielding, when handled, to the pressure of the fingers, yet so -tough, that it is difficult to break them, and in appearance resembling -white parchment. At the very moment of liberation, the young crocodiles -display their savage nature in a wonderful degree, biting at every -object within reach; also the same vicious propensity is exhibited by -those extricated even before the completion of incubation. I was once -greatly amused in watching a struggle between two caricaris and one of -these youngsters not larger than a good-sized lizard. Each time the -birds made a dash at him, this little saurian, grunting savagely, darted -forward with wide-open jaws, looking for all the world like a young -dragon. During ten minutes the struggle continued without decided -advantage on either side, when one of the assailants, changing his -tactics, suddenly seized the crocodile by the neck with his sharp claws -and soared triumphantly with him into high air. There loosing his hold, -the bird followed his descent with wonderful rapidity, prepared, when he -reached the ground, to repeat the blow; but already half stunned, the -victim soon yielded to superior cunning. - -When the savannas are overflowed by the swollen rivers, these -carnivorous and malicious reptiles spread themselves over the face of -the country, committing great havoc among young animals. So destructive -had they proved to the calves and foals on this estate, that the owner -on one occasion offered a reward of half a dollar a head for every -crocodile killed upon his lands, it being sufficient for the claimant to -produce, in evidence of success, the two great tusks of the upper jaws. -The result of this _ukase_ was, that before the expiration of a month, -more than four hundred crocodiles had been destroyed; yet no sensible -diminution was observable, neither did the persevering dragonade against -them quench in the least their boldness. This expedient proving useless, -they had been suffered to remain unmolested until our arrival at Los -Laureles, when we determined to exterminate those at least which -infested that pass of the river where we performed our daily ablutions -and watered the horses. Accordingly, one day a party of us, well -provided with every necessary, started for a bend of the river where the -water appeared to be very still and deep. None of the usual angling -implements were required in this sport; we used only a strong lazo and a -hoop about three feet in diameter made from a light vine common on the -banks of these rivers. Around this hoop the fresh lungs of a bullock, -cut into thin strips, were twisted and securely fastened. The running -noose of the lazo was then laid over the bait and tied there with -tendrils from the same vine. All being ready, this simple decoy was -launched into the middle of the stream, we retaining on shore the other -end of the lazo. Aroused by the splash, two large crocodiles soon -appeared and rushed for the bait with open jaws. The successful one, in -his eagerness to escape with his prize, burst the slender vines that -secured the noose to the hoop, which last projected beyond his snout, -and the noose on its recoil sliding over, firmly lazoed his upper jaw. -With shouts of exultation we hastened to the assistance of the man who -held the lazo, seeing him unable to cope with the monster, more than a -match for half a dozen men. By our united efforts we finally succeeded -in dragging him to within a few feet of the embankment, when, catching -sight of our earnest faces watching him over the cliff, he tossed up his -head with such sudden violence as to pull the thong through our hands to -its full length, and retreated in triumph to the middle of the stream. -The tough hide, however, from which the thong was twisted, proved equal -to the emergency, and with one more strenuous effort we succeeded in -landing him upon the beach, while - - “Le flot qui l’apporta, recule épouvanté.” - -Some of us who never before had so near a view of these vicious -creatures, were astonished at its size and strength, and our Esculapius, -assuming an appearance of bravery, approached among the first to -contemplate the vanquished foe, but evidently quaking with apprehension -of the huge tusks before him. His terror at length proving stronger than -the dread of his companions’ gibes, he seized the lazo, tugging with -such desperate energy to close the fearful chasm that the thong slipped -from his hands, he lost his balance, and the next moment found himself -lying almost within reach of the still open jaws. From these, -notwithstanding a considerable corporeal impediment, he escaped by -springing with the agility of a cat up the embankment, where he -remained, perhaps to ascertain whether the poet’s statement that -“distance lends enchantment to the view,” was correct by the crocodile -case before him. At length the object of his regards almost ceased -struggling, sure sign that his strength was failing; then with one more -pull we hauled him partially out of water, but no power could force him -entirely therefrom, as each time on reaching the bank he braced his fore -feet with unconquerable strength against it, so forcing himself back -into the stream. In this predicament we had no other resource than to -despatch him, and two or three sharp blows of a hatchet administered by -the roguish Roseliano, severed the upper jaw, with its beautiful row of -teeth, from the head, a surgical operation performed under the -supervision of our eminent Esculapius. The patient expired--no doubt to -the Doctor’s relief--not on his hands, and the “subject” was abandoned -to the myriads of caribes which, although their teeth could produce -little impression upon his tough cuirass, feasted with avidity on his -blood so long as it flowed from his mutilated head. - -We prepared a large supply of bait in like manner to the former, all of -which was seized by the hungry crocodiles with the same fatal results to -them. In the short space of three hours we succeeded in killing six -large ones, and could no doubt have destroyed a greater number, had not -the lazo been gnawed through by caribes, that pest of all rivers in this -region. - -The Indians of the Orinoco river, where the crocodiles are said to be -still larger and more savage, if possible, than those of its tributary -streams, make use of other devices for ridding themselves of those at -least that infest the places frequented by them. One of these -contrivances is as novel as most of the productions of their fertile -imaginations are for ministering to their wants, and consists in -shooting at the monsters’ eyes arrows tipped with a wild cane said to be -very poisonous to crocodiles, so much so that a few minutes after they -are seen floating on the water quite dead. Another device, equally -effective, consists in securing a strong rope, or lazo, to the middle of -a short but stout stick of hard wood, which is then covered up with a -large fish or piece of meat, and thrown in the water: not many minutes -elapse before the crocodile seizes and swallows the bait, stake and all, -when it is quickly hauled on shore by means of the lazo in the hands of -the Indians. - -By way of sport, these people avail themselves of the same artifice to -_torear_, as they call it, a crocodile on shore when sunning itself, but -this time without the bait, as the man alone is sufficient allurement to -rouse the monster’s appetite, especially if it is a man-eater -(_cebado_), the only improvement made on the stake being that of -sharpening both ends of it. The Indian now seizes the stick by the -middle, and fearlessly approaches the crocodile, which at once makes a -dash at its antagonist with its jaws wide open; but the _toreador_ -easily evades the onset by stepping aside a little, as the reptile, on -account of the configuration of its spine, cannot turn round upon him, -except after describing a long circle; a second and a third onset are -equally unsuccessful, as the sportsman purposely avoids the collision by -moving off when the animal comes up close to him. Having by this time -proved his dexterity the Indian gives it the _coup de grace_ by plunging -the stick in a vertical position into the ghastly jaws of the fierce -monster, which, feeling confident of crushing its enemy this time -between its powerful tusks, shuts them with a crash which only assists -in forcing both ends of the stake into the upper and lower jaws; thus -transfixed, the once terror of the river now becomes the sport of the -Indian boys, who eagerly seize upon the thong, and ignominiously drag -the reptile powerless over the sand. - -Our men secured a large supply of fat from the intestinal membrane of -the crocodiles: a sovereign remedy for bruises and cutaneous diseases -among horses. By exposing this fat to the sun, in horns slightly -punctured at the end, a fine oil equal to that of the whale, is obtained -by percolation and collected in basins placed under the horns. - -Selecting the jaws of the dead crocodiles containing the finest tusks, -we distributed the latter among our friends for tinder boxes and -amulets. It is universally believed throughout the Llanos that the -tusks, when worn next the flesh of man or beast, will preserve the -wearer from the poison of snakes, especially if obtained on Good Friday. -For this reason the smaller ones, set in gold or silver, are worn -suspended from the rosaries which form one of the principal ornaments of -the people in those parts. It is further believed that rings made of the -same material will apprise the wearer, of poison mixed in any draught by -causing an instantaneous effervescence of the liquid. The supposed -efficacy of these potential talismans was once peculiarly tested in our -own camp. - -Among the few luxuries carried by our commissariat into the Llanos was a -basket of champagne, which was reserved for state occasions. One -afternoon, while almost every person was enjoying his siesta, the -temptation seized one of our men to search for aguardiente among the -_petacas_. His good fortune discovered to him our little treasure of -champagne, and grabbing a bottle he at once commenced cutting with his -dagger the wires that secured the cork. Up this flew at last with a loud -report, which broke the dead silence of the camp and started to their -feet more than one drowsy slumberer. - -Our thief, seeing the profuse effervescence gushing out with great -force, endeavored at first to arrest it by clapping his hands over the -mouth of the bottle; but suddenly recollecting that he had on one of -those mysterious tusk-rings, the suspicion flashed to his mind of poison -intended for _el amo_, the master; and when in addition to this the -bewildered knave perceived that apparently the more he endeavored to -confine the liquid, so much more it frothed and bubbled, he was -overpowered with terror, shrieking out in an ecstasy of horror, “Ave -Maria Purisima! Help! Help! _cristianos_; this aguardiente must be -poisoned, or else the devil is in it.” - -On hearing these cries, every one sprang from his hammock, imagining the -camp attacked by a band of _malhechores_, and the would-be thief was -thus caught in the very act. - -As he was, however, out of his wits with fright, he escaped with only a -mild reprimand, the more especially that we enjoyed several hearty -laughs at his expense. Futile were our efforts at convincing the -frightened fellow that champagne was very good drink; he evidently -distrusted all our assertions. Some was then poured out and drank, and -the bottle passed round; but when it came to his turn, he persistently -refused to touch it. On being asked whether his surprise and repugnance -arose from seeing the liquid rushing out of the bottle, his reply was, -“Oh, no, _Señores_; I am not surprised to see it coming out, but how the -devil did it get in?” - -With the intention of finishing a sketch of one of the crocodiles, I -next day revisited the battle field, and to my surprise discovered the -absence of one of the dead bodies; but presently perceived the mailed -carcass floating at some distance on the water. I was for some time at a -loss to discover what had occasioned his change of position, and I -finally concluded that its comrades must have given him honorable -interment in the deep. Desiring to ascertain, if possible, the facts of -the case, I determined to conceal myself near by and keep close watch. I -had been in hiding only a few moments when at least half a dozen -crocodiles approached the deceased, not, as I had imagined, to mourn his -loss, but to feast upon the many fish in their turn gorging themselves -upon the body. Then, almost to my horror, I beheld these monster -insatiates rend in pieces and devour the melancholy remains of the dear -defunct with grunts of revolting satisfaction. Nor did I perceive in -this case any of those “crocodile tears” with which travellers tell us -it is their hypocritical habit to bedew the head of a human victim. It -is said that when they have devoured a man, finding themselves unable to -swallow his head, they convey it to some secluded spot on the river -banks, there to weep over and bewail their inability with cries which -make night hideous. - -The size and appearance of crocodiles must be sometimes most -extraordinary, if we may credit our adventurous friend B., who boasted -so intimate an acquaintance with their habits, that one could easily -imagine such familiarity might breed contempt. Judge, O reader, if I -speak not truly. - -He related that one day, having labored successfully until noon in his -piscatory pursuit, overcome by fatigue and the intense heat of a -tropical sun, he turned his longing eyes toward shore in search of some -friendly shelter; but perceiving that, between him and the only copse of -trees which relieved the glaring scene, there stretched a dreary waste -of burning sand, he had not courage to traverse, even to reach so -tempting a goal--he sought a refuge more accessible. This to his great -joy he just then discovered in the form of what appeared to be the wreck -of an old canoe thrown on its side near the water’s edge. Here was a -cool retreat wherein to enjoy his siesta; so hastening toward it, his -satisfaction was complete on finding it sufficiently capacious to admit -of slinging to the protruding ribs his _chinchorro_, or grass hammock, -which, with his guitar and gourd of aguardiente, were his inseparable -companions. Refreshing himself with a good pull at the gourd, and -stretching himself in his hammock, he soon slept the profound sleep of -the weary. He awoke to find himself enveloped in a darkness which he -might have supposed that of midnight, but that it was unrelieved by moon -or friendly star. Completely bewildered, he sought a clew to this dark -mystery by moving forward with cautious steps and extended hands, -uncertain into what horror his next movement might betray him, when his -surprised attention was attracted, first to the spongy nature of the -ground, then to the clammy yet warm and sticky walls that on all sides -encountered his extended fingers. The discovery of these facts was -accompanied by the very unpleasant - -[Illustration: CROCODILE BASKING IN THE SUN.] - -conviction that he had mistaken the open jaws of some sleeping crocodile -for an old bongo. However, with his recovery from the first shock of -surprise returned the stoicism so characteristic of his race, which was -the more entirely reinstated by finding his well-filled gourd with his -beloved guitar lying near. Notwithstanding, however, a reviving draught -from the former, he soon became conscious of a void in his internal -economy, which he at once determined to fill at Mr. Crocodile’s expense; -thereupon drawing his knife, he without the least compunction made a -meal from the tenderest morsels within reach. And so eating, drinking, -sleeping and tuning his diminutive guitar to the cheering strains of -some lively ballad of the Llanos, he remained for days, he knew not how -many, an uncomplaining prisoner within those slimy walls. At length, -while mournfully draining the last remaining drop within his faithful -gourd, his dungeon walls were suddenly made visible to him by a faint -ray of light which penetrated his very soul with the desire once more to -behold its source. Snatching at the dear companions of his imprisonment, -without another moment’s delay he rushed for the opening that admitted -the life-giving ray, and discovered to his delighted surprise that his -jailer, having deserted the water for a siesta upon the sands--which he -recollected was the occasional habit of these monsters--had left -wide-open his prison doors. These he lost no time in passing, seizing -with firm hand as he flew, his _chinchorro_, still suspended from the -crocodile’s tusks he had so almost fatally mistaken for the ribs of an -old canoe. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - -THE CIMARRONERA. - - -We had been apprised that between a great bend of the river -Matiyure--forming the southern boundary of our savannas--and an -extensive flat overgrown with thorny bushes, there existed what the -Llaneros call a _cimarronera_, or great hiding place for cattle, which, -owing to the impenetrable nature of the jungle, had from time immemorial -baffled the efforts of every majordomo who had hunted these savannas. -Further we had ascertained that the cattle were there as numerous as a -colony of ants; but so savage and shy, as to never venture from their -wild sanctuary. Thither our efforts were to be directed, not only on -account of the good harvest in store, but also for the purpose of -breaking up, if possible, that den of runaways which, if left -unmolested, might in time become a serious obstacle in the way of -reducing those wild herds to at least a partial submission. - -The corrals, which I trust the patient reader has not forgotten we were -in process of building, being now ready, we commenced preparations for a -descent upon the fierce hordes of that neglected section. Messengers -were therefore despatched to the people of Caucagua, an adjacent cattle -farm, apprising them of our intention, and with the dawn of day more -than an hundred hunters were assembled on the spot. Among them were some -of the best _enlazadores_ that the country could produce, all of whom, -like the valiant Pentapolin--chosen model of the hero of La Mancha--had -his right arm bared to the shoulder that the wide sleeve of the Llanero -shirt might not interfere with the management of the lazo. - -As soon as the sun was high enough to light us through the bushes, a -detachment of hunters penetrated the bristling maze of thorny acacias, -and succeeded in driving out into the open savannas so large a herd of -cattle that it soon swelled to a considerable _rodeo_. No sooner, -however, did they discover the presence of the hunters, than becoming -frantic they rushed from side to side like a band of furies, and, -heedless of the shouts and goads of the horsemen, broke at length -through the ring of even these experienced hunters, scattering again in -all directions. In vain did the fearless pursuers throw themselves -between the wild mass and the jungle; so rapid and entire was the -dispersion that the plain which but now swarmed with the driven, -bellowing, maddened creatures, was cleared as if by magic, leaving the -disappointed hunters in sole possession. Only here and there a faint -cloud of dust in the distance betrayed the course that some of the -fugitives had taken. The men, enraged at this unexpected discomfiture, -could not be restrained from again entering the tangled labyrinth and -dragging thence by sheer force a number of the refractory brutes. After -deliberation, it was decided that several of the hunters should scour -the plain in search of the runaways, while the larger number rushed -again fearlessly into the jungle. These at last succeeded in securing -several fierce bulls, each of which was treated _secundum artem_, -depriving them of the chance of doing much mischief in future; for no -sooner were they down, than the knife and the saw were busy with their -horns, ears, &c. But the business was not accomplished without the usual -average of casualties in these contests, and on that occasion one of our -best hands was greatly imperilled. A ferocious bull was undergoing the -usual precautionary, though severe measures, for his subjugation, when -one of the men standing near, accidentally became entangled in the coils -of the lazo at a moment when the bull, infuriated, escaped from those -who held him. The poor fellow, although thrown violently to the ground -and severely stunned, almost miraculously escaped further injury. The -daring Sarmiento, one of those who witnessed the transaction, enraged at -sight of his helpless companion, sprang from his horse, seized the -sheep-skin which covered the saddle, and holding it before himself, -fearlessly advanced sword in hand to meet the bull, which, not -comprehending the challenge, stood panting and trembling with rage -before his bold adversary. The matador perceiving this, approached him -more closely and shook the sheep-skin in the animal’s face; then, firm -as a rock, he stood and dauntlessly awaited the coming struggle; it was -enough; with head lowered to the ground, and lashing himself furiously -with his powerful tail, the bull rushed upon his antagonist with a -terrific roar, causing every heart to tremble for the safety of the bold -matador. Then we heard a heavy fall, a deep groan; we saw only a cloud -of dust that concealed the scene; but we knew the Llanero had conquered. -Triumphant shouts of approbation filled the air, whilst I knew not -whether most to applaud the fearless grace with which the man had stood -his ground before this, the most powerful of all infuriate creatures, or -the dexterous celerity that had found, and with one fatal blow -penetrated, the narrow passage through the vertebrae into the spinal -marrow. But the scene in that remote corner of the earth recalled -forcibly to my mind the spirited lines in which the author of Childe -Harold thus depicts one of like nature in the midst of refined Europe: - - “Foiled, bleeding, breathless, furious to the last, - Full in the centre stands the bull at bay - Mid wounds and clinging darts and lances brast, - And foes disabled in the brutal fray: - And now the matadors around him play, - Shake the red cloak, and poise the ready brand: - Once more through all he bursts his thundering way-- - Vain rage! the mantle quits the conynge hand, - Wraps his fierce eye--’tis past--he sinks upon the sand!” - -Those who had galloped off in search of the scattered herd finally -returned, bringing a large addition to the stock, and we were driving -them to the _paradero_, when our Leader’s horse, a fiery charger of the -Goagiro breed,[35] little accustomed to the broken ground of the pampas, -lost his footing and fell with him while endeavoring to clear an -extensive _terronero_. Fortunately his rider received no injury; but -loosing hold of the bridle in his fall, the horse was soon careering -over the plain, and would inevitably have made good his escape, had not -some vaqueros hunting in that direction encountered and captured him -after a long race. Accidents of the kind are very common in the Llanos, -and often in consequence many persons are killed or otherwise injured. -The least evil to which the ousted rider may be subjected, is that of -being left alone, perhaps with a dislocated limb, on an extensive plain, -where the unfortunate may perish from hunger or exposure before -assistance chances to reach him. Our friend B., who once found himself -similarly circumstanced, related to us on this occasion the adventure, -which he swore by all the saints in the calendar had actually occurred -to him. Notwithstanding such exalted referees, a few grains of doubt -still disturbed our belief. - -“He was once,” he said, “engaged in hunting with a party of vaqueros on -the extensive savannas of Merecure, which form the great cajon or pampa -between the rivers Cunaviche and Arauca. Having started in the morning -with a full complement of men, there was no difficulty in forming the -_rodeo_; but, as in our own case, all their manœuvres proved -ineffectual in keeping together so great a number of untamed brutes, -which finally broke through the ranks as easily as might a herd of wild -hogs through a field of reeds, and vanished in the distance. So great -was the cloud of dust they raised, that when it cleared, B., whose horse -during the confusion had stumbled in the hole of a prairie-owl, thrown, -and then deserted him, found himself solus in the midst of the wide -pampa, and so bewildered and confused by the general stampede, that he -was totally unable to discover the least clew by which to guide his -steps over those trackless wilds. Overcome with the fatigue of his -useless search, he threw himself upon the ground, finally quite -disheartened by the recollection that he had no lazo by which he would -have been enabled at any time to secure sufficient animal food for his -subsistence. Two whole days he thus passed hopelessly wandering and in -search of food, when, upon the third, kind Providence, compassionating -his sufferings, placed in his way a fat calf, which he succeeded in -capturing after a short chase. Having slaughtered it, he roasted the -whole at once lest it might spoil, then ravenously devoured the welcome -repast. This supply lasted several days, when again finding himself -minus food, he determined to put in practice a stratagem that he had -devised whereby to secure for himself in future an unfailing supply of -wholesome nourishment. He had observed the mother of the calf, -apparently in search of her offspring, lingering in the neighborhood, -moaning and bellowing in a most piteous manner. Availing himself of the -first eligible opportunity, he approached her on all fours, entirely -covered with the skin of her own calf, and forthwith commenced drawing -sustenance from the maternal fount; this he accomplished with so much -natural ease and grace, that the tender mother, after a few incredulous -sniffs, felt convinced at last of his being a perfect calf, and -accepting him for her own, bestowed upon him a good licking. Thus -graciously encouraged, and each day more delighted with the unrestrained -freedom of his new life, time rolled on and a year elapsed without his -ever regretting the loss of home or friends; while so powerful was the -effect of this novel mode of existence upon his person, that it had -materially altered his whole appearance, and as the calf skin seemed to -have actually adhered to his own, so he found himself rapidly -assimilating, as well in tastes as habits, to that interesting -quadruped.” - -About this period the majordomo undertook another hunt on these plains, -where he quickly succeeded in collecting a large number of cattle; but -although they were all, as usual, extremely difficult to manage, still -there was one of the number, a young bull with a fine pair of horns -twelve inches long, more refractory and troublesome than any of the -others, which fact--as B. was the bull--was owing probably to his -educated instincts, they enabling him to devise a variety of expedients -for the discomfiture of his pursuers. However he was at length obliged -to yield to superior numbers, and the unerring lazo finally brought him -struggling to the ground, when in an instant one of his captors, an -athletic sambo, had drawn his knife and commenced sharpening it upon the -horns of this novel minotaurus, preparatory to performing upon him the -usual necessary operations. But what language can do justice to the -astonishment of all beholders, when the apparent bull, casting aside his -hairy disguise, sprang erect from the ground, exclaiming as he did so: -“Stop, _amigos_! can you have forgotten your old comrade B., who was -lost a year ago in this _cimarronera_?” - -So perilous an adventure having convinced him of the risks attending a -savage life, his companions had no difficulty in persuading him to -return home with them, and thereafter found him of immense assistance in -their expeditions, as, being perfectly familiar with the haunts and -habits of the cattle in that cover, he could lead the vaqueros, when -required, with the sagacity of a pointer. - -This story, which B. related with the most admirable ingenuousness of -manner, recalled to his recollection a wonderful discovery upon which he -had chanced, while journeying on a pressing errand to Arauca. - -He had been riding hard all day across the plains, until at length, -overtaken by night, he was constrained to encamp on the spot. Grass and -water for his horse--a fine trotter--being abundant and at hand, he took -no precaution to prevent his straying, other than that of fastening the -animal’s feet on the right side with a _manea_, a strap with looped -nooses at both ends. In spite of this the horse wandered from him during -the night, a mishap which compelled poor B. to finish the remainder of -the journey on foot, besides being obliged to carry the ponderous saddle -upon his head. - -Having accomplished his errand at Arauca, and after an absence of -several weeks, he was returning home by another route, riding a hired -animal, when to his great joy, on the way he found his steed in fine -condition, and his feet still secured by the strap. The horse he was -riding being already tired, he removed the saddle to the back of his own -steed, and immediately mounted him. But to his overpowering -astonishment, he discovered, on resuming the journey, that the gait of -his horse had undergone an extraordinary change, trotting as formerly on -the side that had remained free from the strap, but ambling on the one -which had been so long confined by it. His wife possessing an ambler, he -sold it immediately he reached home, it being thereafter a useless -expense, as, whenever in the future he and his better half wished to -ride at the same time, all that he had to do was to place her on the -ambling side, and then seating himself on the other they trotted and -ambled away to their hearts’ content. - -The nights were thus pleasantly spent, after the fatigues of the day, -most of our men having always some incident or story to relate in -connection with their own experience. One evening, Gaspar, the lame -negro who followed our camp in the humble capacity of washerman, -recounted to a circle of admiring listeners a thrilling adventure which -took place on this very spot, and in which he took a very conspicuous -part. He had been a slave to the wealthy Manuel Blanco, who owned at -that time nearly all these savannas, and possessed in consequence untold -wealth in cattle and horses. In that capacity Gaspar was often compelled -to attend the great hunts undertaken by his master against any _tigre -cebado_ that might have committed depredations in the land. - - -THE JAGUAR HUNT. - -“It was during the month of August,” said Gaspar, “when the savannas are -at the height of inundation, that the circumstances I am about to relate -occurred at this farm of Matiyure. At such times the tigers, finding the -low lands rather too damp for their delicate feet, seek refuge among the -_matas_, or in the immediate vicinity of the farm-house, coming out at -night to procure a good supper for themselves and cubs from amongst the -herds congregated on the _bancos_, and not unfrequently it happens they -carry their depredations to the very gates of the _majada_. - -“We had heard for several nights in succession what, in the opinion of -our people, was only the bellowing of _padrotes_ assembling their herds, -but which the more sagacious hounds recognized at once as the roar of -their old acquaintance, the tiger, invariably answering each time with a -prolonged and dismal howl. It was easy to perceive, from the prints left -in the mud, that there were several of these animals, perhaps a mother -and her cubs. One fine morning the boys who tended the calves apprised -the majordomo that some wild beast had broken into the _chiquero_,[36] -and carried off the old sow, about giving birth to a litter; next day -the boar was missing, and so on until the _chiquero_ was entirely -relieved of all the inmates. Fearing for our own lives and the safety -of our steeds, the majordomo made arrangements for a grand hunt, for -the purpose of exterminating, if possible, the whole of these marauders. -Our master, who was at that time in the village, was notified of the -plan, as were also all those who might wish to improve this opportunity -for the display of personal prowess. - -“The following day we had the satisfaction of seeing our master arrive -at the farm, accompanied by the _Padre_ and a long retinue of -assistants, all of them zambos of undoubted courage and most -accomplished matadors. The _Padre_, a fat little gentleman not yet past -the prime of life, came more as a _curioso_[37] than, as many supposed, -to exorcise the demons of the jungle. Although he had the reputation of -being a very holy father, he did not disdain at times to lay aside the -cassock and join his parishioners in the manly sport of the Llanos. - -“We mustered about forty in all, which, together with a dozen or more -tiger-dogs, were considered quite sufficient for our purpose. Some of -the men carried lances cut to within six feet of the steel head, so that -the long shaft might not interfere with their movements in the jungle; -whilst others, trusting more to their own agility and skill, were simply -armed with their swords and a _saleo_[38] to cover their movements. I, -who was neither a matador nor a great horseman at the time, was -intrusted with the hazardous post of leading the dogs into the cover, -and therefore was more exposed than any of the rest to the anger of the -tiger. - -“We were not long in tracking the _pintado_ to a neighboring _mata_ by -the fresh prints of his paw in the soft mud and by a number of -turkey-buzzards hovering above the carcass in the woods. - -“On arriving at the place supposed to harbor the beast, all those of our -men who had lazos were stationed at convenient distances around the -wood, while I was ordered to lead the dogs into the jungle after the -concealed enemy. This I accomplished with due precautions, aware, as you -all know, that the _pintado_ has the peculiarity of concealing himself -where not even a fox could hide itself without being discovered. -Presently I perceived a very strong smell--not unlike that arising from -a leather vat--which filled the air in whatever direction the dogs led -me, and soon after a tremendous howling from these worthies apprised me -in whose company they had thrust me. Simultaneously with the howling of -the dogs, I heard first a hoarse growling, not unlike a concert of -_araguatos_ just before the rain, and, judging from the increased -barking of the hounds, I concluded that the enemy was in full retreat, -when I thought my time had come to show him my mettle. But lo! scarcely -had I advanced many paces, when, _Ave Maria, Señores!_ the tiger gave -such a fearful roar as to shake the ground and the trees upon it. I do -not know what became of the dogs or the tiger at the moment; for my -part, all I can say is, that, without being aware of it, I found myself -again alongside of my companions, and, what was worse, in the presence -of the majordomo, who, by way of warning, discharged upon my ribs -sundry blows with his _chaparro_. It is needless to add, that after this -I considered myself ten times better off amidst my hounds, whom I had -every reason to expect would keep away the beast from me, I mean, of -course, the tiger. Upon my word, _camaradas_, and with all due respect -to _mi Comandante_ Rávago, here present, I assure you that, of all -savage creatures, there is none so terrible as an angry majordomo.” - -“Thou didst find it so,” retorted the weather-beaten overseer, “when, -amidst a shower of bullets from the Spaniards, I dragged thee out like a -lame duck from the plaza at La Cruz; but proceed, my old buzzard, and -tell us what effect did the well-deserved thrashing produce on thy sooty -hide.” - -“Guided by the barking of the dogs, I again entered the wood with -renewed determination, for this time, at least, I was well provided with -a lance, which some humane companion placed in my hands, besides a -_saleo_ which I picked up on my way thither. Thus armed and prepared for -the encounter, I fancied myself this time another Marcelino, slaying -everything around me; but how I acquitted myself afterwards the sequel -of my narrative will show you. - -“Well, _Señores_, I found _Tio Tigre_[39] at the foot of a large -algarroba-tree, surrounded by my dogs, whose movements he watched all -the time with an evil eye. To all appearances none of the contending -parties had yet come to any decisive move, although the hounds kept -very closely on him. Cat-like, seated on his haunches and playfully -moving his tail from side to side, he awaited the attack of the barking -troop with becoming composure, never betraying the least symptom of -alarm, nor even deigning to stir a foot beyond his post to silence them. -At times he even appeared to disregard their menacing tone, rubbing his -eyes with his great paws as if doubtful which of my fat hounds would -afford him the best meal. Occasionally he licked his thick upper lip -with his fiery tongue, as if savoring beforehand the unexpected morsel -thus brought before him. Finally one of the dogs, which appeared more -courageous than the rest, made a sudden spring at his side, when I -thought my time had come to plunge my lance into his vitals. But before -I could measure the distance that separated me from the enemy, I had the -mortification to see my brave companion stretched lifeless on the -ground. This, I thought, was a bad beginning; but if ever I have a -chance at thy dirty skin (said I to the villain), I am going to dye it -of a different hue. - -“My dogs, however, were not to be intimidated so easily after this -unexpected discomfiture: on the contrary, growing more and more -clamorous all the time for the fate of their companion, they seemed -determined on avenging his death by renewing their attacks upon the -enemy. The tiger, however, conscious, no doubt, of the fate that awaited -him beyond his lair, obstinately refused to be driven out like a -polecat, but adhered firmly to his entrenchment at the foot of the -tree. - -“Now, there was among my pack of hounds a splendid fellow which had -always been a particular favorite of mine, not only on account of his -superior strength in dealing with refractory bulls, but also for his -friendly attachment to my person, which he had displayed more especially -whenever the majordomo showed himself overzealous on behalf of my master -by an undue punishment on me. Observing that the tiger still persisted -in maintaining his position, I said to Fierabras--for such was my -favorite’s name--Now then, my boy, show him your teeth! while I advanced -two or three steps with the intention of pinning the animal with my -lance to the body of the tree. But alas! vain attempt: with one stroke -from his huge paw, the tiger snatched the lance from my hands, and laid -me flat on the ground, inflicting at the same time the severe gash on my -neck that you may still observe. But that is not all; as the scoundrel, -disregarding all the rules of decency and politeness, very coolly sat -himself upon my face, nearly suffocating me with the weight of his body -and the strong exhalations arising from it. I thought that if I could -get at my _cuchillo_, which I carried by my side, I would soon get the -pride out of him; but in the situation I then was, it would have been -impossible and even hazardous to attempt anything of the kind. -Fortunately the tiger, like his near relative, the cat, seldom worries -his victims as long as they keep perfectly still. By this time some of -my friends outside--not hearing the loud whoops by which I encouraged -the dogs, and fearing something serious might have happened to -me--hastened to the spot from whence proceeded the barking of the dogs, -and endeavored to rescue me from my perilous situation. The tangled -nature of the wood, however, not permitting the men to use their lazos, -one of my companions--a slave, like myself, and a most daring -matador--resolved to attack the tiger with his sword. Seizing the -sheep-skin from the seat of his saddle, and partly rolling it on his -left arm, he advanced boldly upon the tiger, and, with a voice that I -shall never forget, he cried out: ‘Now, then, _hijo ’una put_ ... you -don’t know who Paulino Blanco is, or else you would not be making faces -at me there as if you were a monkey.’ The tiger, who most likely had, -during his nocturnal visits to the farm-house, heard something about the -famous matador, very wisely disregarded the insult flung at him, instead -of rushing on to his encounter like a mad bull. This somewhat -disconcerted the plans of the matador, who was also aware of the danger -of attacking the beast in his intrenchment; but finally losing all -manner of patience, Paulino made a rush on the tiger, not stopping until -he almost touched the animal’s nose with the sheep-skin; then plunging -his sword in the neck of his antagonist, both fell rolling on the -ground, cracking the brushwood as they struggled. In the meantime I was -not slow in improving the opportunity to crawl out in search of my lost -lance, which I soon found, and was enabled by means of it to return the -service rendered by my companion. To plunge the lance into the beast’s -heart and turn him on his side, was the work of a moment, after which -the tiger gradually relaxed his hold upon my prostrate companion, and -stretched himself out to die without a groan, but not before he had -inflicted several deep wounds on the neck and chest of his antagonist. -Thus ended the career of that scourge of the savannas, and my first -experience in tiger-hunting. - -“After this adventure it was easy to perceive that chasing the tiger on -his own ground was not an easy task by any means. Therefore our people -were induced to proceed more cautiously in the subsequent search that -was made for the others. - -“It was not long before the dogs, which were by this time aroused to a -sense of revenge and self-defence, fell in with the track of another -tiger, probably the wife of the defunct, as it was evident from the -footprints that she was followed by two younger ones. Fearing from past -experience that this second hunt might also prove as disastrous as the -former, it was agreed that all those who carried lances should enter the -wood on foot in order to attack the tigress in a body, should she refuse -to come out to open ground. I, of course, was too faint with loss of -blood to be able to follow up the trail this time; therefore the dogs -had been placed under the guidance of some one else, and shortly after I -had the satisfaction of hearing the bark of my chaps resounding through -the woods, which was a sure sign they had brought the game to a stand. I -was expecting every moment to hear the glad tidings of the destruction -of this female marauder, when, instead of the usual cry of victory, I -heard a tremendous rush and cracking of sticks, as if a herd of wild -hogs were endeavoring to escape. Judge of my disappointment when I -beheld the whole troop of men and dogs hurrying out of the wood; and at -the head of the fugitives no less a personage than his Reverence the -Padre, hotly chased by the enraged tigress, who, having witnessed the -slaughter in cold blood of one of her darlings, could not restrain her -fury any longer, charging headlong into the midst of the group. In spite -of his category, she would in all probability have made short work of -_Su Señoria_, had not the Padre conceived the good idea of dropping his -broad-brim behind him, which fortunately was carried away by a strong -gust of wind, thus exciting the enraged beast to a pursuit. The tigress, -after sporting with the hat like a bird after a butterfly, finding that -it was mere chaff, tore it in pieces, and again turned her attention -towards the reverend fugitive. In the meantime the Padre had not been -very slow in reaching his horse, which was tied at the foot of a -caujaro-tree a short distance from the wood. Unfortunately, just as he -was in the act of laying hands upon the bridle of his steed, the tigress -issued from amongst the high grass, and again charged him. At sight of -the dreaded beast, the horse, giving a toss to the halter in the air, -broke loose and scampered off, leaving his master to the tender mercies -of the tigress. - -“Swifter than a monkey, and in spite of his ponderous stomach, the Padre -went up the slender tree, which bent like a reed at every effort he made -to reach the branches, threatening to drop him between the open jaws of -the tigress, which by this time had reached the foot of the tree. Here, -again, his patron saint, as it is alleged, saved him once more from the -impending danger. The truth, in my opinion, is that the tree was not -stout enough for the tigress to embrace it firmly to climb up, otherwise -all the good saints in heaven would not have prevented her from tearing -him down like a frightened _araguato_.[40] His Reverence might have -remained there until the day of judgment, as the tigress had already -crouched beneath the tree, and he had no means at hand for driving her -off, not even through the power of excommunication, but for the timely -arrival of two _enlazadores_,[41] who, observing a horse scampering over -the plain without a rider, were attracted to the spot; these, unfolding -their lazos, threw them at the beast with such precision as to entangle -the animal at one and the same moment; she was thus prevented from doing -injury to either the Padre or themselves; for, every time she endeavored -to spring on the one, the other tighted his lazo to check her movement. -Furious with rage and foaming at the mouth, the tigress endeavored to -bite the lazos through and through; but finding the hide from which the -thong was twisted rather too tough even for her powerful tusks, she -rolled over the grass in trepidation and dismay at finding herself so -unexpectedly in the power of her captors. - -“It was a glorious sight to behold the savage creature thus struggling -with the slender lazos that bound her to the ground. Crippled as I was -from the effects of my first encounter with the tiger, I had sufficient -strength to reach the scene of action in time to take part in the death -of his wife also; but ere I dealt the first blow at her, I felt my arm -suddenly arrested by the Padre, who contended that the honor of putting -an end to her accursed existence belonged to him exclusively as being -the aggrieved party on this occasion. I therefore willingly surrendered -my lance to him, he having lost his own spear in the hurry of the -moment; and then he set to work cutting her up with all the nicety of us -folks, as if he had long been trained in the art of wielding a lance. -Nevertheless, the tigress would not allow herself to be so easily -conquered; at every stroke from the Padre’s lance, she seized the pole -with teeth and claws so firmly that we found it difficult to wrench it -from her grasp, and it was not until she had been literally cut to -pieces that she gave up the ghost--to the devil, I hope. - -“It was late in the afternoon when we finished our hunt, and turned our -horses’ heads in the direction of the farm-house. We should, no doubt, -have succeeded in killing as many more of these ferocious beasts, but -for the early mishap to myself and the good zambo Paulino, in -consequence of which we both had to be carried--or, rather, we carried -ourselves as well as we could--to the _pueblo_, in order to have our -wounds properly dressed. On our arrival at the house, we found our -mistress--who had already been acquainted with the facts by my -master--awaiting us at the gate of the inclosure, and apparently very -much excited with the news; for no sooner did Paulino pass the gate, -and without waiting for him to dismount from his horse, than she -accosted my companion in the following manner: ‘Well, Paulino, my boy, I -declare ... now tell me, how did the tiger scratch you, my poor fellow, -and what did you do to the scoundrel?’ with other similar expressions of -feminine curiosity. Paulino, who was more matter of fact than we poor -slave folks have generally the credit for, very prudently hesitated at -first to comply with the train of her requests, excusing himself by -saying, ‘Alas! mistress, it was a hard case, indeed; but, to tell you -the truth, I shouldn’t like to show you how.’ - -“This reluctance on the part of my companion only helped to excite her -curiosity still more, until she commanded him, in a peremptory manner, -to explain to her the circumstances of the case. By this time Paulino -had, with some difficulty, extricated himself from the saddle, and -falling suddenly upon our mistress with a loud yell, he threw her upon -the ground and commenced biting and scratching her just as the tiger had -done to him. The yell from zambo and the shrieks from _mi Señora_ soon -drew to the spot my master, and some gentlemen who had come to -congratulate him on the success of the hunt. Frantic with passion, and -in a tone of voice which made me tremble for poor Paulino, he roared -out, ‘How, now! Who’s taking such liberties with my wife, here!’ To -which Paulino very calmly replied, ‘’Tis nothing, master, I was only -showing mistress how the tiger scratched me!’ ...” - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - -LOS BORALES. - - -Aware of the importance of a plentiful supply of water for the cattle -during the season of drought, we resolved to build a large reservoir in -the heart of the savannas before leaving the pampas, and with this -object now turned our steps toward the lagoon of Los Borales--so named -in honor of a species of water lily very abundant on its borders--which, -although quite a lake during the rainy season, often lost its waters by -evaporation and other causes when most needed. This required a dam to be -raised across one of the many creeks traversing these plains in all -directions, to arrest the flow when the floods begin ebbing, thus -leaving an artificial reservoir where previously only an extensive bog -existed. We installed ourselves within the shelter of a solitary grove, -and immediately commenced raising an embankment to several feet above -the level of the plain, taking the earth for the purpose from the bed of -a creek connecting with the lagoon. Digging to the depth of twelve feet, -we came upon a tree with trunk and branches in perfect preservation, -which, although it had evidently been thus entombed for ages, a breath -of air had power to crumble into dust. As from the time of our arrival -it had rained unceasingly, the water rapidly accumulated in the now -completed reservoir, though our satisfaction received something of a -damper from the fact that the fires were thereby constantly -extinguished, until we bethought ourselves of erecting over them a -covering of green boughs about three feet from the ground. Upon this we -laid large pieces of meat, which, covered with palm leaves, were -speedily cooked by the fire beneath. - -In that retired and solitary grove, seated on a pack-saddle, and -surrounded by lazos, bridles, and other emblems of our peaceful -occupation, I wrote under the dictation of our Leader, his emphatic -refusal to accept the Presidency of the Republic for a third time. -Little did we then dream that this spontaneous act of political -abnegation would be hailed with exultation by his enemies, in the hope -of working, as it did for a time, his ruin as well as that of the -Republic; and that the same plains where occurred this disinterested -proof of patriotism, should shortly afterward witness a scene of -bloodshed and persecution to him who, not long before, had been the -acknowledged guardian of his country’s liberties. - -Thunder storms were now of frequent occurrence. One night we were -awakened by a fearful clap from the approaching tempest. The prospect -was not inviting. Sheltered in our hammocks only by our _toldos_, and -raising among us all but a very small umbrella of philosophy, we awaited -the coming storm. In a moment it was upon its with a raging wind that -threatened to overthrow and crush us beneath the falling branches of the -trees. Then from the heavens descended so continuous a sheet of -commingled fire and flood, that these at last appeared to become a part -of the atmosphere we breathed. Terrified by this fearful uproar, our -_madrina_ of supernumerary horses, which, fearing the snakes, we had -quartered in the bed of a dried-up lagoon, dashed madly across the -plain, in spite of the combined efforts of their keepers. But no sooner -had these refractory animals abandoned the secure pastures for the high -grounds, than, attacked by snakes, three of them paid with their lives -their insubordination, and one of these unfortunates was afterward -brought staggering into the camp, groaning piteously. Unable in the -darkness to discover the cause of his sufferings, a light was speedily -procured by igniting a rag rolled in fat, when a most revolting -spectacle presented itself; the poor beast, so covered with blood that -he appeared literally to have been plunged into a bath of gore, had -evidently been bitten by a snake, possibly the same which in killing the -others had probably nearly exhausted its poison upon them, so that what -remained of the venom had not power to produce immediate death, but -effected a complete diapedesis or transudation of the blood. A -_curandero_ present undertook to restore the poor animal by means of the -famous _oracion_, but on this occasion his skill was vain--the horse in -a short time expiring, apparently in great agony. The groans of the -dying animal, the thundering of the others along the waste, the shouts -and curses of their pursuers, who in the darkness were in danger of -being trampled under the feet of more than three hundred frightened -animals, mingled with the appalling fury of the elements, until it -seemed as though earth and heaven were struggling for the mastery. This -fearful scene oh, my unhappy country! shadowed forth but too faithfully -thy dark night of despotism; the anarchy, contentions, and wretchedness -of thy children; thy ravaged borders, where the “Wise and Good” had -formerly scattered plenty over the smiling land, and portrays now to me -as faithfully the night when I, with a handful of brave youths from -Maracaibo, was surprised upon the borders of its lake by the myrmidons -of the tyrant Monagas, and carried prisoners to the capital while -endeavoring to save the remnant of constitutional liberty in the -republic. - - * * * * * - -Our men, finding it impossible during the darkness to trace the -horses--among them all of those used for the saddle--were obliged to -postpone their search until sunrise. At length, as if wearied with its -wild orgies, this tumultuous night passed away, and the morning star -appeared leading the timid dawn. The earth, so late the dark abode of -chaos, now in bloom and beauty, seemed the favored daughter of the -spheres, sparkling in liquid gems, and radiant in the gorgeous splendor -of tropical spring, while myriads of white lilies, far as eye could -reach, mantled the plain, flooding with perfume the pure morning air. -Countless flocks of waterfowl, from the tiny _güirirí_ to the -soldier-like crane of the pampas, crowded the miniature lakes, which -the late storm had left in every hollow of the ground, and made the air -resound with their harsh and varied notes. Conspicuous among these last -were the several species of _garzas_--herons--those “Ladies of the -waters, delicate in form, beautiful in plumage, and graceful in their -movements,” whose slender, arching necks, curving here and there above -and through the sprouting grass, reminded one of the deadly snakes -lurking about the plain. There, too, the _carrao_, a bird less -prepossessing in appearance, but endowed with keen perception of a -coming change of weather, announced by loud cries, from which it derives -its name, the near approach of rain with singular precision. Clouds of -fluttering _gaviotas_ or scissor-beaks (Rhynchops) skimmed the water in -wild, irregular flight, ploughing up the smaller fish with their -scissor-like beaks, and vexing the ear with harsh and piercing cries. On -all sides bellowing herds of cattle and troops of emaciated deer -wandered, panting as they sought for water and fresh food; while, -rescued from the torpor into which the protracted summer drought had -plunged them, the drowsy crocodiles and sluggish tortoises moved slowly -over the plain in search of the reviving element. - -It was no easy task to keep the fires burning after the deluging showers -of the previous night, in consequence of which we were threatened for a -while with starvation in the midst of plenty, as not only had our -temporary kitchen been destroyed, but every log of wood was drenched -with water; so were also our scanty garments and ponchos, most of them -being likewise in a few hours covered with the larvæ of myriads of -flies which infested our camp. These _petites misères_ were, however, -forgotten for the moment in the all-absorbing topic of the whereabouts -of our runaway horses. Happily the Llaneros, accustomed from their -infancy to observe the instincts of the animals surrounding them, -possess a sort of intuitive knowledge--with them it might be called a -science--of their movements and impulses. - -In following the trail of stray animals amidst thousands intercepting -each other in every direction, it is of course necessary to determine -the right one in order to prosecute the search with some degree of -success. The long experience and sagacity of our sturdy majordomo, whose -word was considered infallible in such matters, were of incalculable -advantage on this occasion. Calmly seated on his hammock, his -weather-beaten countenance turned toward the far horizon, he assembled -around him the wearied watchmen of the missing drove, still drenched by -the late tempest; and directing each squad as to the probable course -followed by the separate groups of horses, he ordered them to disperse -over the plain in pursuit of their uncertain errand. As the subsequent -results proved, on the afternoon of the following day, it was executed -with gratifying punctuality; and here I may be permitted to utter a -passing word of praise in behalf of these hardy cavaliers of the desert -plains, upon whose courage and sagacity often depends, not only the -success of such expeditions, but sometimes even the fate of a whole -army, whose progress would be seriously endangered without a competent -body of cavalry to procure the necessary supply of beef. Scantily -provided with raiment, poorly paid, and the simple fare of the Llanos -for rations, they are at the post of duty at all hours, in the hot -sunshine of day, or “in thunder, in lightning, and in rain” by night, -always cheerful and happy, providing they have with them their -inharmonious guitar and plenty of tobacco with which to satisfy their -appetite for stimulus of some sort. Among the various duties of their -vocation, one of the hardest to which they are subjected is that of -keeping a constant watch over the cattle at night to prevent their -dispersion, as they are compelled to remain for hours on horseback and -“wide awake.” In order to accustom the cattle to the voice of their -nocturnal guardians, a constant chant in a peculiarly plaintive strain, -in which cattle seem rather to delight, is kept up until morning, when -only a few horsemen are necessary to retain them within the grazing -ground. Should the unruly herd, despite their vigilance, take alarm, as -is often the case, or evince any symptoms of uneasiness, the first care -of the men is to close in, in circle, and if this prove unavailing, they -place themselves at the head of the stampede, in order to check, if -possible, the progress of the affrighted multitude; but woe to the -unfortunate watchman whose horse, missing his footing, throws his rider, -for he will be trampled to death in an instant! - - * * * * * - -One afternoon we were apprised by a special messenger from El Frio, that -a tall, red-faced Englishman had arrived from the Orinoco, bringing any -quantity of fire-arms, ammunition, and--what appeared most -extraordinary to our informant--a genuine negro servant who could speak -English. As no written communication had been despatched along with the -bearer of this unexpected piece of intelligence, we had not an idea of -who this British Nimrod might be. We, however, hastened to welcome the -stranger, and for the purpose left Los Borales next morning for -head-quarters. On arriving, we were most agreeably surprised at meeting -no less a personage than Lord James Butler, now, as I understand, Earl -of Ormond. We then recollected that the previous year, when his lordship -had honored us with a visit at our home in the valleys of Aragua, he had -promised that should we carry out our projected expedition to the -pampas, he would meet us there. Accordingly, in expectation of this, he -had quitted Barbadoes--where he was stationed with his regiment--in his -yacht for the river Orinoco. There he left it and prosecuted the -remainder of the voyage in a clumsy bongo, up the Apure, arriving at San -Fernando nearly a month after quitting Ciudad Bolívar. At the former -place he was advised to proceed to Achaguas, where he would most likely -hear of our whereabouts. Obtaining there the requisite information, he -immediately set out for our cattle farm, distant about fifteen leagues; -but instead of providing him with a guide across the trackless waste, he -was merely furnished with a refractory mule, which they assured him -would take him to the next cattle farm, whence he would be directed -onward. He had not proceeded far on his solitary way, when the vicious -animal, taking fright at a prairie-owl just as night was approaching, -suddenly whirled round, and my lord, despite his long legs and English -horsemanship, lost his balance, was dismounted, and, what was worse, -left to shift for himself in the midst of a wide plain; the mule, -finding, perhaps, the load rather too much for him, scampering off -without even a parting compliment. Nor was his sable squire at hand to -render him the requisite assistance, as he had been left behind in -charge of the numberless accoutrements for the chase. Fortunately a peon -accidentally encountered the mule on his way home, and knowing the -tricks of the animal, secured him, and brought him back to the -discomfited traveller. - -His lordship related this adventure with much humor, and on our -expressing regret that he had met with so disagreeable a _contretemps_, -he coolly replied that he scarcely considered it in that light, and -rather regretted its speedy termination as having, possibly, deprived -him of some curious experiences. - -Although the best room in the house had been prepared for his -accommodation, we observed with surprise that when night came, he -insisted upon having his hammock slung in the open air. This, we -afterward discovered, was in consequence of his great horror for the -_murcielagos_ clinging in clusters to the thatch-roof of the house; and -I must confess also that the guest-chamber in our Manor of the Pampas -had few attractions, and could offer none of the allurements of the -_dulce domo_ to his lordship of Kilkenny Castle. Wines or delicacies of -any kind we had none; but as we were well aware that the hospitable -Englishman always offers some choicer beverage than water to his guests, -we caused an old corozo-palm tree standing in front of the house to be -cut down, and from it we procured every afternoon a plentiful supply of -palm-wine. To obtain this, a trough is scooped out in the upper part of -the stem among the footstalks of the leaves; the opening is then covered -with the square piece of bark just cut out, and the wine or sap allowed -to accumulate in the trough during the night. A few hours are sufficient -to produce a pleasant vinous fermentation with a sweetish taste and a -flavor similar to that of Malaga wine; but if left to ferment for a -longer period, it acquires decidedly intoxicating properties. - -Although our sports were nearly over at this time, we endeavored to -entertain our distinguished visitor as well as circumstances would -permit. We escorted him several times to the savannas in search of game, -and even got up a _rodeo_ and branding frolic for his special amusement, -with both of which he appeared highly delighted. During the excitement -of the _rodeo_ he had another adventure, similar to that I have already -related as having occurred to my friend, Mr. Thomas, with a wild bull, -and which came very near proving more disastrous than his lordship’s -previous one with the refractory mule. We had just surrounded a large -herd of cattle, when, like the artist, inspired by the excitement of the -chase and its accompanying scenes, Lord James seized his sketch-book and -commenced to delineate them. He had not been long thus occupied, when a -bull, attracted perhaps by the commanding attitude of the draughtsman, -broke through the ring, and made at him with fury in his eyes. -Unconscious of danger, he continued his occupation with as much -composure as if at a stag-hunt in the West Riding of Yorkshire. It was -too late to render him assistance, and we watched the issue with -breathless anxiety; but the bull, apparently awed by the immovable -attitude of the rider and his fearless composure, contented himself with -making a tremendous demonstration at the breast of the horse without -either touching him or his rider, and then, turning tail, vanished in -the distance. It was highly amusing to hear his lordship inquire the -meaning of all that flourish of trumpets, when a witty Llanero, standing -near, replied to him that it was evidently intended as a salutation from -the wild multitude to the honored guest. - -Startled by the noise and rush of so many animals over the plain, the -foxes--in the pursuit of which Englishmen are so lavish of trouble and -expense--could be seen running to and fro, endeavoring to escape; no -sooner did the noble son of Albion discover that this favorite game was -also to be found in the pampas, than he abandoned the exciting hunt of -the wild cattle for the first fox that crossed his path. He had not -proceeded far, however, when another fox, and then another, and finally -a legion of them offered to his eager pursuit. Bewildered by so many -bushy tails, he gave up the chase in disgust; and I am sorry to state -that this species of _embarras de richesse_, spoiled sport for him in -all his subsequent sorties, excepting when, on a visit to the creek of -Macanillal, we “caught a tartar” in the shape of a full-grown -crocodile, which we mistook for a young one. This adventure, however, -afforded him a good deal of amusement, and some surprise to those -engaged in the undertaking. It so happened that only the end of the -reptile’s tail was out of water in a very shallow spot, the rest of its -body being entirely buried among the roots of a large stump. Judging -from the apparent smallness of the tail that we could easily drag out -the creature, and his lordship having expressed a desire to obtain the -specimen for preservation, Roseliano immediately volunteered his -services. He tried in vain, however, to bring it to light unassisted, -whereupon a lazo was brought into requisition, and having noosed the -tail therewith, we succeeded in pulling the reptile out of its -hiding-place, when, to our great astonishment and trepidation, we -discovered that it was a large and full-grown female crocodile with a -brood of young ones among the roots of the old tree. She struggled -furiously in defence of her brood, several of which we captured and -presented to our guest; but when the time came for disposing of the -mother and recovering the lazo, we found that it would prove no child’s -play, inasmuch as she had full command of her jaws. After several -ineffectual attempts to stab her while in water, we succeeded at length -in dragging her partly from her lair, and then only were we enabled to -unfasten the noose. A stab or two in the armpits, causing a flow of -blood, speedily brought the caribes to finish the job, after which we -returned to the house, much gratified at having rid the creek of this -dangerous family. - -On our way back I met with a severe accident, and narrowly escaped -serious injury from it. We were cantering along a beautifully level -piece of ground, covered with short grass; this suggested to my English -friends the idea of testing the relative swiftness of our horses. Off we -at once started, and had proceeded but a short distance, when we found -our way obstructed by a dried-up creek. The Englishmen, as a matter of -course, delighted, leaped it at a bound; but my pony, not being -sufficiently strong to clear the obstruction, missed the opposite bank -and fell, rolling over with me into the ditch. I was a good deal bruised -in consequence, and the house being still at considerable distance, -suffered intensely in reaching it. This accident prevented me from -joining in the other sports devised for the entertainment of our noble -guest, who, however shortly afterward bade us adieu and returned to the -sea coast. He preferred, on this occasion, the route through Nutrias and -Barinas, that he might escape the tedious descent of the rivers; a -messenger was therefore despatched to Ciudad Bolívar, ordering his yacht -to meet him at Puerto Cabello. Disabled by my recent mishap, I could -not, much to my regret, accompany him; a guide of his own selection was, -however, furnished in the person of our negro troubadour Quintana, for -whom his lordship had evinced a decided predilection, even extending to -him an invitation to visit “Old England,” the friend and protector of -benighted Africa; but we could not spare him for so long a trip; and as -Llaneros have an innate aversion to trusting themselves on unknown -waters, the acquaintanceship terminated on the borders of the Caribbean -Sea. - -After the departure of our noble guest from El Frio, we began to think -that it was also high time for us to be getting ready for our return -homeward. The task of retracing our steps, however, was not an easy -thing to accomplish with three thousand oxen to look after, besides the -other animals we brought there; and this in the face of the approaching -inundation of the savannas. - -As soon as our preparations were completed, we took our final departure -from El Frio, which perhaps we were destined never to revisit, stopping -at San Pablo for a few days to make further arrangements at the pass for -crossing the river with our immense train of animals and baggage. On our -way to San Pablo, we were nigh being put to rout, and our labors -scattered to the winds, by an invasion of a small bloody fly termed -_mosquilla_, which makes its appearance at the commencement of the rainy -season, and which, for destructiveness to flesh and blood, surpasses any -thing I have yet seen in the shape of an insect. In an instant we were -enveloped in a swarm of these terrible creatures, which fastened -themselves upon us and the cattle with a tenacity like that of hungry -leeches, maddening both man and beast, and causing streams of blood to -flow from the bites. The only relief we found for a while was to drive -the cattle at full speed across the plain; but this expedient, although -for the time it frightened away the flies, came very near producing also -a complete dispersion of the herd. We therefore resigned ourselves to -endure their torturing attacks until they had gorged themselves with -blood. - -[Illustration: OUR LEADER.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - -OUR LEADER. - -THE ROMANCE OF A PATRIOT’S LIFE. - - -From San Pablo we despatched men on to Apurito, where we proposed -crossing the river with the cattle, to make preparations for this -toilsome work; and then started for Achaguas, the inhabitants of which -town had tendered our Leader an earnest invitation to visit his old -head-quarters. After an easy ride of about three hours, we forded on -horseback the arm of the Apure River which, running in a south-easterly -direction, forms with the Arauca and the main channel of the former the -island of Achaguas, on which the capital of the province, a collection -of mud hovels, is situated. A brood of scaly crocodiles basking in the -sun, and a herd of tame cattle refreshing themselves in the middle of -the stream, were the only signs of animation we perceived on our -approach to the renowned capital of the Apure. In spite of its present -dilapidated condition, Achaguas did not fail to interest me more than -any other spot in Apure, being my birthplace, and the stronghold for -many years of my country’s independence. The Governor of the province, -Señor Arciniega, accompanied by the few officials in the place, came out -after a while to greet our Leader, as did also the veteran General -Cornelio Muñoz, former Commander of the famous _Guardia de Honor_, or -_Colorados de Paez_, which under the leadership of both these generals, -performed so many prodigies during the long struggle between Royalists -and Patriots, which resulted in the final overthrow of Spanish -domination in Colombia. At that epoch of historical interest to the -friends of liberty in America, Achaguas held the most conspicuous -position as the headquarters of the patriot armies, led by the subject -of the following remarks. - -The arms of the republic were at first unsuccessful, and Venezuela -submitted to the government of the mother country, the Spanish -commander, Don Domingo Monteverde, having triumphed over the patriot -forces in 1812. By this time, however, a new champion of the republican -cause was rising in the south, amidst the wild scenes I have endeavored -to depict in the foregoing pages. This champion was Captain José A. -Paez, then a youth of twenty Aprils, who conceived the happy idea of -collecting a horde of undisciplined Llaneros in the plains of Casanare -to oppose the overwhelming forces of Spain. His intimate acquaintance -with the country, and his thorough mastery in all the sports of the -Llaneros, admirably fitted him to carry out his plans successfully. How -he came there, and by what means he acquired the requisite proficiency -for the arduous enterprise, the following anecdote of his early career -will explain. When seventeen years of age, an uncle of his, the good -Priest of Araure, his native place, entrusted him with a large sum of -money to deliver safely into the hands of the curate of a distant -parish, furnishing him for the journey with a mule, an old pistol, and a -rusty sword; for, even at that period of comparative quiet and peace -(1807) it was dangerous for a traveller to venture over the roads alone, -and carrying with him the tempting metal. The future President of the -Republic, highly elated at the great confidence reposed in him, with the -usual inexperience of youth, spoke freely about his commission in the -first inn he stopped at to get his meals. The consequence of this -imprudence was, that shortly after he left the inn, he was attacked on -the road by three men, who, as a matter of course, demanded _la bolsa ó -la vida_. The youthful traveller, however, dismounted with the old -pistol in his hand already cocked, and now threatening one and then the -other of his assailants, endeavored to repel them. At last, being too -closely pressed, he fired the pistol at the nearest robber, with such -good aim that he killed his adversary on the spot, while the fragments -of the barrel, which burst at the same time, struck another in the face. -Then charging resolutely upon the third bandit with the rusty sword, he -quickly put both to flight, leaving behind them the corpse of their -wretched comrade. Notwithstanding the obvious propriety of his conduct -on this occasion, acting as he did in self-defence, the young man feared -the consequences; he imagined himself already accused, persecuted, -without the means of proving his innocence, and therefore determined to -hide himself by going into the interior of the plains, hoping thus to -escape a punishment which his error made him regard as inevitable. -Determined to gain an honest livelihood, he sought employment on the -cattle farm of La Calzada, in the province of Barinas, where he soon -became inured to the fatigues of the ranger’s life; acquiring at the -same time, under the tuition of a cruel negro majordomo, that -proficiency in horsemanship which later in life gave him the superiority -over the enemy. - -Proud and jealous at the same time of his white apprentice, whom he -imagined had been sent there by his master to spy his actions, the negro -overseer of La Calzada spared no opportunity to put to the test the -courage and strength of the future champion of those plains, sometimes -compelling him to break in the most vicious horses, which often led him -off for days into the open fields; at other times ordering him away upon -the most hazardous ventures of the Llanos. Not satisfied with this show -of authority over his pupil, the brutal black Mentor of young Paez ended -the fatigues of a hard day’s labor by ordering him to bring a pail of -water and wash his muddy feet! But the tide of fortune soon changed; the -whirlwind of revolution offered Paez a new field of adventure, and the -humble peon of La Calzada rapidly gained the highest posts in the -patriot army, while the haughty overseer went to increase the ranks of -the opposing foe. In the course of events the majordomo was brought one -day a prisoner to Paez, who not only spared his life, but kept him -always near his person, his only revenge being to imitate the tone of -his former tyrant when calling upon young Paez to exercise the functions -of the slave: “_Niño José Antonio!_ bring a bowl of water to wash my -feet!” to which the old negro humbly replied, “I see, _niño_, you have -not forgotten your old tricks.” - - * * * * * - -When the revolution broke out, on the 19th of April, 1810, Paez enlisted -in the militia of Barinas as a common soldier, and soon after was -promoted to the rank of sergeant of cavalry. This, however, being rather -a slow process of promotion, he proceeded to organize an independent -body of cavalry, with which he rendered important service to the cause -of independence. But the path of glory was not without thorns, and our -young leader found himself a prisoner in the hands of the merciless -Spaniards, owing his preservation, as it was then believed, to the -influence of a miracle. In those days a war without quarter was fiercely -waged. The province of Barinas having been again occupied by the -royalist forces, Paez fell into the hands of the cruel Puy, was thrown -into prison and ordered to be executed in the city of Barinas the next -day. At that time military executions of captured enemies were conducted -by leading them out during the night to some lonely spot, where they -were despatched with the lance or the sword. Paez and a number of his -fellow-prisoners were thus being led out one night, when he observed, as -he was leaving the prison, that he was uncovered; believing himself to -be only going to make his deposition before the Governor, he requested -his companion in the cell to lend him his hat. The Spanish officer in -charge of the mournful cortege, failing to recognize him under this -guise, ordered him back to be exchanged for the owner of the hat, who, -he supposed, was the identical “captain of the rebels.” Thus he obtained -unwittingly a respite of one day. The following night he was awakened -about eleven o’clock by a great noise of horsemen and infantry in the -street. He imagined they were coming to lead him and the rest of his -fellow-prisoners to the place of execution. He prepared, therefore, to -die; but Providence saved his life once more. The noise of arms and -horses in the street had been occasioned by an alarm in consequence of -information received by Governor Puy, that a considerable army of -patriots was encamped on the banks of the Santo Domingo river, on which -Barinas is situated, and was about marching on the city. Several -parties, coming from different directions, confirmed the information -received by the Governor, and the panic became general. It was supposed -that the patriots in large numbers intended to take the Spanish garrison -by surprise and seize upon the Governor. The latter, therefore, -immediately abandoned Barinas with his forces, leaving only a few men to -guard the prison, for in his hurry he had forgotten to execute the -prisoners, as he had done before on similar occasions. This was the time -for Paez to make a bold effort to save his life. The next morning he -embraced the opportunity, broke his fetters, helped to release his -fellow-prisoners, and overpowered one of the sentinels, who attempted to -oppose his escape. Paez then fled to put himself once more at the head -of a small band of patriots, to harass the enemy in the same province -of Barinas. On the morning succeeding the alarm, the royalists could not -discover an enemy for more than fifty miles around the city. The alarm -and panic occasioned by the reported approach of an enemy in the night, -confirmed by so many persons, some of whom had gone out to reconnoitre, -and the most singular disappearance, or absence, of this host on the -following morning, gave rise to the popular belief, existing to this day -among the common people, that the life of Paez was saved by the friendly -intercession and miraculous appearance of an army of departed spirits, -known as the _Ejército de las Animas_. - -The next exploit of the future champion of the Llanos took place amongst -the rugged mountains of Merida, to which point the remnants of the -republican forces were retreating after the disasters of 1814. Utterly -disheartened and surrounded on all sides by enemies, they hardly knew -which way to turn. The column to which Paez belonged finding itself -unexpectedly confronted on their march to Bailadores by a superior -force, made a stand at a place called Etanques, while the enemy -endeavored to gain the intermediate heights. The road which led to these -was a narrow and deep cut on the sides of the steep mountain, which did -not permit a force to deploy on being attacked; observing which, Paez, -who had no command of his own, and only figured as an _attaché_ to a -small body of cavalry under Capt. Antonio Rangel, who commanded the -advanced post, strenuously urged the captain to pursue the royalists on -their march; Rangel, however, contented himself with exchanging a few -shots with the latter, and returned to occupy his position. Unable to -restrain himself, Paez, who rode a spirited charger, dashed onward, -making a great noise, as if proceeding from many voices, discharging a -blunderbuss on the rear of the column, which killed the sergeant. -Alarmed with the voices and the report of the gun, the royalists were -seized with a sudden panic, and fled in consternation, throwing down -their arms, and upsetting everything and one another in their -precipitate flight, thus presenting an easier mark to the terrible lance -of their pursuer. The only opposition encountered by the latter was from -one José Maria Sanchez, a man renowned for his courage and much feared -by the people of Merida, who compelled Paez to dismount and struggle -hard with him for the possession of the exterminating weapon. Victorious -at last over his formidable antagonist, the reckless champion remained -complete master of the field. It was then that Paez, once again free to -act according to his own judgment and impulses, conceived the idea of -going through the centre of New Granada to the plains of Casanare, south -of the province of Apure. This plan was the result of experience, which -convinced him that the patriots could not triumph, notwithstanding their -unheard-of efforts, while the Spaniards held possession of the plains -and controlled the supply of horses. The acquisition of the Llanos gave -the superiority to the Spaniards, as, by means of it, they had a source -of supplies and a safe retreat. Paez determined, therefore, to make -that wild region the base of his military operations, and with this -object organized a body of horsemen in the plains of Casanare, which he -soon after led into the province of Apure. - -In the language of another, “no man was better calculated to command the -love and respect of his wild soldiery. Great bravery, a thorough -knowledge of localities, an affable and familiar treatment of his -followers, procured for Paez great popularity and an unlimited sway over -the minds of his men. He was one of the best riders in a district of -country celebrated for good horsemen, and understood the management of -the lance, his favorite weapon, almost to perfection. He possessed great -bodily strength and agility, and few could compete with him in the wild -sports of the Llaneros, or inhabitants of the immense plains of -Venezuela.” - -The Llanos are, in fact, a permanent camp of military instruction for -their intrepid inhabitants. Accustomed from their infancy to subdue the -wild horse, to master the wild bull, to swim across broad streams, and -to grapple in single combat with the crocodile, the tiger and wild boar, -the Llaneros learn to despise danger. When the war turned them from -their ordinary occupations, the enemy found them ready-made soldiers. -Inhabiting a genial atmosphere and endowed with iron constitutions, -their wants are few and insignificant; in peace, the lazo and the horse; -in war, the horse and the lance. Perfectly acquainted with the country -and unencumbered with heavy accoutrements, the dwellers of the Llanos -cannot be conquered except by men of the same region, and Venezuela -possesses in those limitless plains and in the breasts of their valorous -children, the strongest bulwark of her national independence. - -Paez, now master of his own military movements, resolved to meet the -enemy there, and, if possible, to bring about an engagement. On the 16th -of February, 1816, he commenced his march in pursuit of the royalist -chief, Don Francisco Lopez, and in three hours’ space met him at a place -called Mata de la Miel, on the right bank of the river Apure. The -royalist leader had two pieces of artillery and sixteen hundred men, -whom he drew up at once in order of battle. Paez’s forces amounted -altogether to about six hundred cavalry. It was evening and the night -fast advancing, on which account many of the patriot officers were of -opinion that the engagement should be postponed until the following day. -This very reason, however, determined the leader to enter at once into -action, as he feared that his soldiers, observing the great superiority -of the enemy in numbers, might take advantage of the night to desert. -Paez accordingly divided his forces in two columns, placing the one, -composed of New Granadians, under command of Captain Genaro Vasquez, and -the other, composed of Venezuelians, under Captain Ramon Nonato Perez. -The royalists were completely routed, and during all that night and the -two following days the forces led by Paez pursued and captured a great -portion of those under Don Francisco Lopez. Such was the action of Mata -de la Miel. There were left dead on the field four hundred royalists, -and a great number of prisoners were taken together with about three -thousand five hundred horses and nearly all the enemy’s arms. Four -months afterward, in June, Lopez again crossed the Apure with twelve -hundred horsemen and four hundred infantry, but Paez met him near -Mantecal and compelled him to retreat, after losing many men and horses. - -Notwithstanding these advantages on the part of the patriot forces, the -result of the following campaigns (1814, 1815, and 1816) was most -disastrous to the arms of the republic elsewhere; Venezuela, New -Granada, and the plains of Casanare again fell into the hands of the -vengeful Spaniards. In 1816, a very numerous emigration of patriots, -consisting of men, women, and children, in a state of great destitution -and suffering, fled to the wilderness from the persecution of the -royalists, and took refuge in the camp of Paez. Many persons of -distinction were to be found among the fugitives, and a system of -government was established for the regulation of affairs. A meeting of -officers was held at Arichuna, and Paez appointed supreme chief, with -the rank of General of Brigade. He applied himself immediately to raise -sufficient forces to oppose Don Francisco Lopez and to acquire, if -possible, some resources in his extreme want. The hardships and -privations endured by the patriot army on the plains can scarcely be -conceived. The soldiers were so destitute of clothing as to be compelled -to use for a covering the hides of the cattle freshly killed; very few -had hats, none shoes. The ordinary and only food was beef, without salt -and without bread. There were, in addition to all this, continual -rains, and the rivers and creeks had overflowed and covered over the -country. They wanted horses, and as these are indispensable to the -Llaneros, they must be obtained before any thing else. Only wild horses -could be procured, and they had to be tamed and broken. This was done in -squadrons, and it was a curious spectacle to see five or six hundred -riders at a time struggling to subdue these wild animals. Around the -ground were stationed several officers, mounted on well-trained horses, -whose duty it was to go after those which escaped from their riders, to -prevent them from carrying away the saddles, although these were made of -wood, with thongs of raw hides. Many years after these scenes, an -eye-witness wrote: “We courted danger in order to put an end, with -honor, to such a miserable life.” To provide against this misery, Paez -now turned his attention to the nearest source of supply, Barinas, a -city abounding in all the commodities he stood most in need of. Although -nearly two hundred miles distant, the patriot chieftain did not hesitate -to invade his old antagonist in the midst of the rainy season. The -undertaking could not, however, be executed without great peril and -hardships, he having to contend not only against the inveterate enemies -who occupied all the approaches to the city, but against the inundation -of the savannas at the time. The expedition, moreover, had to be -conducted with great secrecy, avoiding even the few channels left open -in those inland seas for the transit of men on horseback. Not in the -least deterred by obstacles so formidable in themselves, Paez got -together one thousand picked men, and two thousand white horses, -animals of this color being reputed the best swimmers. With these, he -crossed the Apure and several other streams, then at the height of their -flood, being compelled besides to ford extensive lagoons of various -depths to avoid the numerous gunboats of the enemy, stationed at all the -important passes. On one of these, on the river Canaguá, the expedition -was fortunate enough to capture by surprise a gunboat and a large -quantity of hides, which were left behind with a strong guard for future -use. When near Barinas, Paez sent a detachment to surprise also the town -of Pedraza, to the south-east of the capital, with the object of drawing -the attention of the royalists in that direction. The ruse succeeded -admirably; the small detachment of men carried every thing before them, -penetrating as far as the plaza, and then retreated, according to -instructions, to rejoin the main body. Enraged at their audacity, the -Spanish commander at Barinas sent out a large force in pursuit of the -attacking party, thus weakening his own force. Paez then advanced -against Barinas, disposing his line of march in single file, each -horseman followed by his spare horse, tied to the tail of his own -sumpter. The object of this arrangement was to deceive the royalists -also in regard to the real numbers of the enemy, which from a distance -presented a very imposing appearance. Barinas is situated on the border -of an extensive plain, bounded on the south by the _mesa_ of the same -name, through which Paez made his entry into the doomed city when the -sun was in the meridian. The dreaded army of “departed spirits” did not -produce a more appalling consternation among the royalists than the -apparition of this unexpected body of ragged horsemen. They knew full -well that, owing to the overflow of the savannas, no advance could be -made upon the city from the south. They felt equally secure against any -attack from the north and from the east, which were then entirely under -their control, while on the west they were still better protected by the -lofty Sierra Nevada. Without stopping to ascertain the real character of -the force before them, the royalists collected together in a great hurry -whatever valuables they prized most, and had already loaded several -mules with them, when the enemy, dashing forward in full gallop, arrived -in time to secure the rich booty, after dispersing the owners and their -troops. The half-clad followers of Paez then fell upon the stores and -abandoned houses of the royalists with the eagerness of men who had not -seen a respectable garment in a long time. One of the officers was -fortunate enough to capture a mule loaded with thirty thousand dollars -in gold, while every man in the party got more goods than he could -carry. - -Paez only remained a sufficient time at Barinas to arrange the -transportation of the booty, which took up nearly all the spare horses -brought along for this purpose; without these and the hides seized at -Canaguá, it would have been impossible to remove it to the patriot camp -in the wilderness. Owing to the presence of a strong flotilla of -gunboats at the mouth of the river, the captured vessel had to be -abandoned after a while, and the wearisome route across the inundated -savannas resumed by the returning caravan. The hides served the double -purpose of covering for the goods and lighters to ferry them over the -streams. This species of leather canoe is an ingenious contrivance -frequently resorted to in those wild regions wherever there is a -scarcity of boats, and consists in a bag or trough formed by passing a -rope through a number of holes round the rim of the hide, and gathering -it over the goods. One end of the rope of sufficient length is then -handed over to a good swimmer, who takes it between his teeth and tows -the lighter after him. In this manner, the immense booty obtained at -Barinas was successfully transported over one hundred miles of inundated -plains, to the inconceivable joy of the wretched emigrants at the camp -of Arichuna. - -After allowing his troop sufficient time to rest from their fatigues, -and finding it to his advantage to resume the offensive, at least to -occupy the attention of his soldiers, Paez commenced his march toward -Achaguas, although the season was still very severe. The march was slow, -as, besides the difficulties of the road, they were encumbered by -numerous emigrants, and compelled, at every step, to procure supplies on -account of the want of stores. The great multitude of men, women, and -children, moving with the army, represented to the life the picture of a -nomadic people without home or country, who, after consuming the -resources of the district they have occupied, raise their tents to -conquer another.[42] In this manner they arrived at the sand hills or -Médanos de Araguayuna, where, having left the emigrants under the -protection of a resolute band of horsemen, Paez incorporated all the men -capable of bearing arms in his ranks, and marched against Lopez, whom he -supposed to be at Achaguas. But after proceeding a short distance, he -learned that the enemy, to the number of seventeen hundred horsemen and -four hundred infantry, was at the cattle farm called Yagual. Paez then -changed his course and took his position between the enemy and the city -of Achaguas. His army was divided into three columns, commanded by -Generals Urdaneta and Servier, and by Colonel Santander; they were -nearly all armed with lances, very few with muskets or carabines, and -the supply of ammunition was scanty. On the 8th of October, they came in -sight of the enemy, and although their number much exceeded that of the -patriot forces, Paez did not hesitate to give them battle. The conflict -was long and severe, but it was decidedly in favor of the patriots. Don -Francisco Lopez was compelled to abandon his position, after sustaining -a severe loss; on the next day he refused to renew the battle, and fell -back upon Achaguas, having previously shipped on the river Arauca all -his artillery and wounded for San Fernando. On the 13th, Lopez, having -made a short resistance, abandoned the town, of which Paez took -possession. Shortly after this, Lopez being attacked by surprise on the -banks of the Apure, was utterly defeated, his forces dispersed, and he -himself lost his life. - -At the head of his brave soldiers, Paez rescued the province of Apure, a -part of that of Barinas, in Venezuela, and recovered that of Casanare, -in New Granada. Having increased his force by the new levies raised in -these provinces and in others, he formed that army which subsequently -rendered such important services in the cause of freedom, and whose -exploits have been so much admired. - -It is not my purpose to enter here into a detailed account of the events -of that epoch; the limits of this chapter, and the relationship existing -between the author and the subject of this hasty sketch, preclude the -possibility of such an undertaking, especially when better pens have -compiled them in the _Encyclopædia Britannica_--articles, Colombia and -Bolívar; in the _American Cyclopædia_--articles, Paez and Venezuela; -also in _Campaigns and Cruises in Venezuela_, and various other works by -English officers who served in the ranks of the patriot armies at the -time, to which English and American readers of history are especially -referred for a more comprehensive view of that fearful struggle. My -object is to give my readers some idea respecting the nature of that -contest in that part of Venezuela which, after years of unheard-of -privations and almost insurmountable difficulties, furnished at last the -elements which decided the fate of Colombia upon the plains of Carabobo, -Junin, and Boyacá. - -Vain were, after this, the efforts of the Spanish invaders to destroy -what they contemptuously called the _Gang of Apure_, in their official -documents. Several expeditions were despatched from Spain about this -time, under the command of the ablest generals, and provided with all -the material for a vigorous campaign. One of these, led by -Lieut.-General Don Pablo Morillo, set sail from Cadiz on the 18th of -February, 1815. It consisted of sixty-five transport ships and other -smaller vessels, convoyed by the line-of-battle ship San Pedro Alcantara -(lost afterwards during the blockade of the Island of Margarita), -mounting seventy-four guns. The total number of men composing this -expedition, including marines, amounted to fifteen thousand. The ships -carrying this formidable armament cast anchor, on the third of April, -1815, in Puerto Santo, to the windward of Carupano, in Venezuela. -Morillo, the commander of this expedition, was a brave, active, and -energetic officer, cool in action, a severe disciplinarian, and was -beloved by his soldiers. Besides this force, there was a royalist army -of five thousand men in Venezuela, commanded by Morales. - -At first, General Morillo met with little or no opposition, until, going -to the interior, he encountered the wild horsemen of the plains. The -haughty temper of the Spanish commander-in-chief could not bear that a -handful of demi-savages, as he was pleased to style them, should insult -the pennant of Castile any longer, and he therefore prepared to capture -every one of them, with what results, the sequel of this narrative will -show. - -In the early part of January, 1817, the Spanish commanders, La Torre and -Calzada, effected a junction at Guasdualito, on the plains of Apure. -About the same time, the royalist brigadier, Don Ramon Correa, and -Lieutenant-Colonel Don Salvador Gorrin, left San Fernando, and with -their cavalry and infantry attacked the line of the patriots, and -completely routed Guerrero, the republican general, forcing him to fall -back upon Paez, after a bloody battle, in which the patriots sustained a -considerable loss. The siege of San Fernando being raised in consequence -of this triumph, the attention of La Torre and Calzada was directed to -Paez, who presented the greatest obstacle to their occupation of the -river Apure and its adjacent plains. An army of four thousand veteran -soldiers of all arms, including seventeen hundred of the cavalry -commanded by Colonel Remijio Ramos, presented a force sufficient to -inspire the Spanish commander with confidence, particularly as La Torre, -who was a brave and accomplished soldier, was anxious to distinguish -himself among his companions in arms. He, therefore, marched to the town -of San Vicente, following the right bank of the river Apure, with the -intention of attacking Paez, who was then in Mantecal. On the 28th of -January, the patriots and royalists met on the plain of Mucuritas; the -former, with a body of cavalry amounting only to eleven hundred -horsemen, and the latter with the forces already mentioned. The result -of the engagement was as unfortunate to La Torre as it proved -advantageous to the patriots under Paez, who on this occasion made up -for his inferiority in numbers by means of a stratagem which nearly -resulted in the destruction of the entire Spanish army. The order of -battle adopted by the royalist leader was the best which the nature of -the ground and the enemy he had to contend with would permit; his -infantry presented a strong and compact front, while his cavalry was -posted on the wings and on the rear. Paez having only cavalry, could not -come within the range of the enemy’s muskets without running the risk of -being wholly destroyed; and he consequently conceived the idea of -separating the royalist horse from the infantry. The presumptuous -confidence of Colonel Ramos and the inexperience of La Torre in the -Llanero’s tactics, facilitated the execution of Paez’s plan. Having -formed two columns with a portion of his forces, Paez ordered them to -attack the enemy’s flanks, and then immediately to retreat, as if they -had been repulsed. His object was to draw out the enemy’s cavalry in the -heat of the pursuit, and at once surround them with two other columns, -which he had ready prepared for that purpose. This simple manœuvre -had the desired effect, and La Torre’s cavalry was speedily destroyed. -The European hussars alone escaped, because they advanced with less -precipitancy and in better order. The republican leader now ordered the -dry grass of the plain to be set on fire, and it instantly became a sea -of flame. Fortunately for La Torre, his infantry retreating -precipitately in close column, succeeded in reaching a spot which had -been burned some time before. Even there his infantry sustained several -charges from Paez’s cavalry, compelling him ultimately to seek a refuge -in a dense wood on the right bank of the Apure, where the pursuit -ceased for want of infantry on the part of the patriots. Of this battle, -General Morillo wrote: “Fourteen consecutive charges upon my wearied -battalions convinced me that these men were not a small gang of cowards, -as had been represented to me.” On the following morning Morillo joined -La Torre, and continued with him his march to San Fernando without -crossing the Apure, and always in sight of the republican cavalry; Paez -finally perceiving that the enemy avoided a new engagement, retired to -San Juan de Payara. - -In 1817, General Bolívar appeared in the province of Guayana, and his -first effort was to open his communication with Paez, who did not -hesitate to recognize his authority, although widely separated from the -Liberator’s head-quarters. - -From this period the patriots began to extend their operations; a series -of brilliant actions took place at various points, and the republican -cause appeared to revive on the line of the Apure and the Orinoco -rivers. The acquisition of Guayana under Piar was an important and -decisive event in the history of the war; by means of it, Bolívar was in -a situation to harass the posts occupied by the royalists, on any point -of the immense line embraced by the Orinoco and its numerous -tributaries. - -In the latter part of January, 1818, Bolívar joined him with two -thousand five hundred disciplined troops, among them the famous British -legion lately arrived, increasing the republican forces to about ten -thousand infantry and the same number of cavalry, which last was -composed of well-trained men, accustomed to victory on the plains of -Apure. The plan of the campaign having been arranged between Bolívar and -Paez, they resolved to cross over the river Apure and march forthwith on -Calabozo, where Morillo had established his headquarters. But here a -great difficulty presented itself; the patriot forces had no boats in -which to cross that broad and deep river. It was then that Paez -conceived and executed the extraordinary plan of capturing with cavalry -the gun-boats of the enemy stationed on the river, opposite the point -toward which they were marching. An eye-witness and impartial foreigner, -attached to the British Legion, thus describes this hazardous -undertaking: “Bolívar stood on the shore gazing at these (the gun-boats) -in despair, and continued disconsolately parading in front of them, when -Paez, who had been on the look-out, rode up and inquired the cause of -his disquietude. His Excellency observed, ‘I would give the world to -have possession of the Spanish flotilla, for without it I can never -cross the river, and the troops are unable to march.’ ‘It shall be yours -in an hour,’ replied Paez. ‘It is impossible,’ said Bolívar, ‘and the -men must all perish.’ ‘Leave that to me,’ rejoined Paez, and galloped -off. In a few minutes he returned, bringing up his guard of honor, -consisting of 300 lancers selected from the main body of the Llaneros, -for their proved bravery and strength, and leading them to the bank, -thus briefly addressed them: ‘We must have these _flecheras_, or die. -Let those follow Tio[43] who please.’ - -[Illustration: CAPTURE OF SPANISH GUNBOATS BY LLANERO CAVALRY.] - -And at the same moment, spurring his horse, dashed into the river and -swam towards the flotilla. The guard followed him with their lances in -their hands, now encouraging their horses to bear up against the current -by swimming by their sides and patting their necks, and then shouting to -scare away the alligators, of which there were hundreds in the river, -till they reached the boats, when, mounting their horses, they sprang -from their backs on board them, headed by their leader, and, to the -astonishment of those who beheld them from the shore, captured every one -of them. To English officers, it may appear inconceivable that a body of -cavalry, with no other arms than their lances, and no other mode of -conveyance across a rapid river than their horses, should attack and -take a fleet of gun-boats amidst shoals of alligators; but, strange as -it may seem, it was actually accomplished, and there are many officers -now in England who can testify to the truth of it.” - -The unprejudiced author of this narrative, which I am compelled to -shorten for want of space, then adds:--“In short, he is altogether a -most wonderful man; and were the numerous and extraordinary incidents of -his life to be formed into a narrative, it would have more the semblance -of romance than authentic biography. He is, above all things, a sincere -patriot, and certainly a bright ornament to his country.”[44] - -This dangerous manœuvre was performed at a distance of two miles from -San Fernando, which, from that moment, was cut off from all -communication with Morillo. The patriot army being thus provided with -the means of transportation across the Apure, a body of cavalry was -immediately despatched in the direction of the road leading to Calabozo, -and succeeded in capturing by surprise a party of twenty-five men, who -composed the advanced post of the enemy. In consequence of this -manœuvre, Morillo was also taken by surprise on the 11th of February, -at a time when his hussars and a portion of the battalion of Castille -were at a place called Mision de Abajo, about three miles to the south -of Calabozo. Only a few men from both regiments, with a Colonel, -succeeded in making their escape to the intrenchments in the city. The -sturdy veteran, Morillo, could not believe the report of his Colonel, -that the whole patriot army was marching upon him. Haughtily accusing -that officer of cowardice, he sallied forth in person with his staff to -reconnoitre what he supposed to be a band of guerrillas; but he himself -had to flee for safety into the city, narrowly escaping death through -the stoical heroism of his insulted Colonel, who threw himself between -the Commander-in-chief and the lance of one of Paez’s staff officers. - -Instead of investing the royalists at once, Bolívar committed the error -of encamping for the night with all his troops at the village of El -Rastro, about four miles this side of Calabozo. Morillo improved this -opportunity to abandon the city under cover of night, and fell back on -Caracas, by the mountainous route of El Sombrero, where the patriots -could not follow him on account of the inferiority of their infantry. -Paez then returned to the Apure, while Bolívar remained with the bulk of -the army, to be soon after entirely annihilated at La Puerta by the -royalist General. But the Genius of the Andes was untiring in his -efforts to see his country, and the rest of the South American -Continent, free from European oppression. - -On the 16th January, 1819, Bolívar joined Paez again at San Juan de -Payara with a newly organized _corps d’armée_, and their united forces -amounted to four thousand men. Bolívar, as a recompense for the -important services rendered by Paez to his country, raised him to the -rank of General of Division, and left him in command of all the forces, -while he proceeded to Angostura, where Congress was to meet in February. -About this time the royalist Generals, Morillo and La Torre, also joined -their forces at San Fernando, amounting in all to six thousand five -hundred men of all arms. With these they immediately proceeded to attack -the patriots at San Juan in the beginning of February. Paez retreated -toward the Orinoco, transported all his infantry to the island of -Urbana, and took up a position, with his guard and two squadrons of -carabineers, at Cunaviche; the remainder of his horsemen he stationed on -the plains of Rio Claro, and a most cumbersome emigration of ten -thousand patriot refugees, that followed his camp, was taken to -Araguaquen. The plan adopted by Paez on this occasion was precisely the -same as the one always practised by him in former campaigns; yet the -royalist General was so infatuated by his eagerness to destroy the “Gang -of Apure,” that he was easily led away into the wilderness before he was -conscious of his danger. On the 11th of February Morillo forced the pass -of the river Arauca, and the patriots fell back, keeping their adversary -under observation; at night, however, they retraced their steps, and in -the morning appeared situated at a short distance in the opposite -direction. Morillo counter-marched, and for many days wandered over that -wilderness, renewing his efforts to overtake an enemy which kept -constantly before him, like the mirage of the desert, and which did him -great injury by driving away the cattle. The only means he could employ -to overtake his opponent and force him to battle, was to use his -cavalry; but this jeopardized the only force which procured the -subsistence of the army, and might thus compromise its safety. Not even -at night were the royalists allowed to rest in peace. On one occasion -Paez caused a number of wild horses to be brought before the enemy’s -camp, and tying dry hides to the animals’ tails, they were stampeded -with shouts and shots towards the encampment. Imagining themselves -attacked by the whole Llanero cavalry, the royalists sprang to their -arms and opened fire on the affrighted horses, which caused that night -more alarm and confusion among them than the two thousand oxen which -Hannibal hurled against the Roman camp. At length, convinced of the -inutility of his efforts, Morillo recrossed the Arauca, and in the -early part of March established his headquarters at Achaguas. - -On the first day of April, General Morillo again resumed the offensive, -marching along the left bank of the Arauca and approaching the position -occupied on the right bank by Generals Paez and Bolívar; the latter had -recently returned from the Congress at Angostura, where he had been -elected President of the Republic, and resumed the command in chief of -the army. Morillo made several feigned movements to the right and to the -left, as if he wished to cross the river, and at noon of the 2d, took up -his position nearly opposite that of Bolívar, out of range of the -cannon. For the purpose of drawing him forth, General Paez crossed the -river with one hundred and fifty horsemen, composed mostly of officers -who volunteered for the hazardous undertaking; with these he formed -three small columns and advanced upon the enemy. Morillo immediately put -all his forces in motion; his infantry and artillery commenced firing, -while the cavalry charged upon the small band of patriots, hoping to -overpower by numbers the weak columns of the enemy; he himself directed -his course toward the bank of the river. Paez, in the mean time, -retreated in order, purposely leaving the pass of the river on his rear. -Morillo, observing this, and supposing him inevitably lost, detached -from the army all the cavalry in pursuit of Paez, and directed his fire -upon the right bank, defended by some light troops. As soon, however, as -the republican General perceived that the enemy’s horse were at a -considerable distance from the army, and in disorder, he faced about -suddenly, attacked his pursuers in front and on the flanks, in small -groups of twenty men, and without giving them time to recover from their -astonishment or to re-form the lines, he routed them, occasioning great -loss. In vain they made the most obstinate resistance--in vain the -carabineers dismounted--all their efforts were useless; disconcerted and -taken by surprise, all those who opposed the vigorous attack were killed -upon the spot. The victors pursued the remnants of the force as far as -the enemy’s lines, slaying all whom they overtook. Their infantry, -thrown into confusion, sought refuge in the woods, the artillery ceased -firing, and night prevented the further destruction of the royalist -army. On the day following this encounter, Bolívar issued a decree, -conferring the cross of Liberators (_Libertadores_) on all the officers, -sergeants, corporals, and soldiers, who fought in this engagement, known -in history by the name of Queseras del Medio; while the following -proclamation announced to the army the success recently obtained by the -republican arms: - - -SIMON BOLÍVAR PRESIDENT, ETC., ETC. - - “_To the Heroes of the Army of Apure_: - - “SOLDIERS! You have just performed the most extraordinary action - that can be recorded in the military history of nations--one - hundred and fifty men, or, rather, one hundred and fifty heroes, - led on by the undaunted General Paez, have deliberately attacked in - front the whole Spanish army, under Morillo; artillery, infantry, - cavalry, nothing availed to defend the enemy from the hundred and - fifty companions of the intrepid Paez. The columns of their cavalry - have disappeared under the strokes of our lances; their infantry - sought a shelter in the woods; the roar of their cannon was - silenced before the breasts of our horses, and only the darkness of - night preserved the army of the tyrant from complete and absolute - destruction. - - “Soldiers! The deed you have performed is but the prelude of what - you can accomplish. Prepare then for the combat, and reckon on - victory, which you carry on the point of your lances and bayonets. - - - “BOLÍVAR. - -“HEAD-QUARTERS AT POTRERITOS MARREREÑOS, April 3, 1819.” - - - -After this engagement, Morillo, finding himself again deprived of his -cavalry in the heart of the savannas, retreated precipitately to -Achaguas, and finally to San Fernando, which place he fortified -strongly, and recrossing the Apure, sought a more advantageous position -against the attacks of his hovering enemy. - -The engagement of Queseras del Medio was the precursor of new plans and -bold projects, combined between Bolívar and Paez. The plains of -Venezuela, being now entirely rescued from the enemy, these two Generals -arranged the dangerous and important expedition that was to give freedom -to New Granada. Paez had the honor accorded him of choosing which of the -two should command the expedition. They both agreed that Bolívar should -march into New Granada, and that Paez should preserve, at all risks, -the possession of the plains of Apure. Victory crowned the republican -arms in New Granada, and Paez resolutely and successfully defended the -important territory confided to his care and protection. - -On the 17th December, 1819, Venezuela and New Granada were united into -one great republic, under the name of Colombia, with a territory -embracing nearly 500,000 square miles. - -The year 1821 is celebrated for the important victory obtained by the -republican army, under Bolívar and Paez, on the field of Carabobo, which -secured Venezuela to the patriots. General Bolívar’s forces amounted to -6,000 men. Only the first division of the army, commanded by Paez, took -part in the battle. This division was composed of the gallant British -Legion, already alluded to, the battalion of Apure, and 1,500 horsemen. -The field of Carabobo is a vast and open plain, lying in a southerly -direction from Valencia. An army endeavoring to enter this plain from -Tinaquillo, as the patriot army was attempting to do, is obliged, after -passing the river Chirgua, to penetrate over the defile called Buena -Vista, lying to the northeast. This defile is a formidable position, on -which a few men can easily arrest the progress of an army. If this pass -be gained, and the many obstructions be overcome, which an enemy can -easily oppose over a rough and craggy road of considerable length, there -still remains a narrow valley to be traversed, formed by hills, which -constitute the entrance on the west to the plain of Carabobo; here the -level ground commences. General La Torre, the Spanish commander, had -stationed in the valley and on both sides on the hills commanding it, -several pieces of artillery, as well as strong bodies of infantry. On -the plain near the opening of the valley the extended line of infantry -was deployed in order of battle, with its right resting upon a thicket; -next followed another line, and between the flanks of both, there were -two strong bodies of cavalry. The second line of battle had on its left -the road to El Pao, and the cavalry on the same side was stationed on -the brow of a hill over which that road passes; the summit of the hill -was occupied by a battalion. Such was the military position of the -Spanish forces, amounting on this occasion to 9,000 men. On the 24th of -June, the patriot General occupied the defile, and from that place -observed the position of the enemy. The narrow road pursued by Bolívar -allowed him only the room necessary to file off, and the Spaniards not -only guarded the outlet into the plain, but commanded the valley with -their artillery and a large body of infantry. The position was -impregnable. It was therefore resolved that General Paez, with -considerable risk and difficulty, should penetrate through a foot-path -but little known, and turn the enemy’s right. This path was extremely -hazardous. It begins at the high road leading to San Carlos, to the west -of the valley; goes over the top of a small hill covered with woods, -which was commanded by the Spanish artillery, and leads into a ravine -where the men were compelled to pass singly, because it was very rough -and full of brambles and briars. When the enemy discovered the movement -of the advancing forces under Paez, he directed part of his own against -the latter, and some of his battalions came up to the ravine, as the -patriot battalion of Apure was beginning to pass it, and a vigorous -firing commenced and was continued on both sides. The republican corps -at last succeeded in passing the ravine, but no longer able to sustain -singly the enemy’s charge, was already giving way, when the British -Legion came up to their support. The enemy had by this time brought into -action four of his best battalions, against only one of the patriots. -But the gallant Britons now filed off and formed in order of battle, -under a murderous fire, with almost superhuman coolness, and kneeling -down, they could not be made to yield an inch of ground. Almost all its -officers were either killed or wounded; but the service rendered by -those brave foreigners was great indeed. Their heroic firmness gave time -for the battalion of Apure to rally and return to the charge, while two -companies of _Tiradores_, led on by the gallant Heras, came also into -the action. The enemy at last yielded under the simultaneous charge of -the bayonet made by these different corps and fell back upon the cavalry -for support. By this time the body-guard of General Paez, six hundred -strong, had passed the ravine, and charging the enemy’s horse on the -rear of its columns, routed them completely and decided the action on -that memorable day. Only one battalion, the famous Valencey, -successfully repelled the furious charges of the patriot cavalry, which -pursued the royalists as far as Valencia. General La Torre, with the -remnant of his forces, shut himself up in the fortifications of Puerto -Cabello, which were finally carried by assault on the 7th of November in -the same year by General Paez. - -The victory gained at Carabobo was complete and brilliant, decisive of -the fate of the republic, and glorious to the brave soldiers of Apure, -whose favored leader was raised by Bolívar to the rank of -General-in-chief on the field of battle--an appointment which was -subsequently ratified by Congress “in acknowledgment of his -extraordinary valor and military virtues.” How he afterwards became -Supreme Chief of Venezuela; twice President of the Republic: was -banished by a turbulent party calling themselves _Liberales_, narrowly -escaping with his life to the United States of America, from whence, -after an exile of ten years, he was recalled, and placed again at the -head of the nation by popular acclamation; became thoroughly disgusted -with the unruly disposition of his countrymen, and returned to end his -days in - - “The land of the free and the home of the brave;” - -he has fully recounted in his Autobiography,[45] recently published in -this country. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - -SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. - - -When we were apprised that every thing was ready at the pass, we moved -on from San Pablo with the horses, the cattle following behind by easy -marches, to allow them sufficient time to graze on the rich herbage by -the way. - -On our arrival at Apurito, we found the river quite swollen with the -recent showers and already extending from bank to bank. The first -business was to select among our men and horses the strongest and most -capable of enduring the fatigue and of guiding through the boisterous -waves of the Apure the various lots into which the cattle were divided -for the purpose. Our next step was to assemble at the pass a sufficient -number of canoes with expert paddlers to act in concert with the leading -men and horses, by flanking the swimmers in the river. Two long -palisades, running parallel down to the bank of the river and narrowing -toward the water, had already been constructed; through these the -animals, in lots of two hundred at a time, were driven at full speed, -with deafening shouts and earnest goading, while two men, stripped naked -and mounted on two spirited horses without saddles, headed the movement, -plunging headlong into the river pell-mell with the cattle, which were -thus encouraged to swim across. A herd of tame animals was stationed on -the opposite shore to incorporate the swimmers as they came out of the -water. Having done this, the leaders swam back to procure another lot of -animals, a feat they performed for about twenty successive times in the -course of the day. Nevertheless, the task was not so easily accomplished -as was practised with the horses; for it often happened that the bulls -became quite refractory and pugnacious, in which case the men in the -canoes were obliged to hold them by the horns, dragging them along by -main force as they paddled on; at other times the beasts got alongside -of the leading men and horses, and then the danger to both was imminent, -the bulls attacking them in the water; thus many valuable horses were -killed by these infuriated animals, while the men had several narrow -escapes. What with savage bulls, electric eels, crocodiles and -caribes--not to mention other pernicious creatures of the waters and the -broad expanse of the river before them--the task of these bold -adventurers is truly appalling; yet they go to work and accomplish their -task with a willing heart and a perfect _nonchalance_ of every thing -around them. The same might be said also in regard to the noble steeds -which share with them the dangers of the river, acting at the same time -the part of floating bridges to the men, and as decoys to the cattle -during the passage. Their powers of endurance, in this instance, are -the more surprising, inasmuch as they are not allowed even a few -moments’ rest after they land, being kept in constant motion the whole -day. - -A number of horsemen with lazos were also stationed along the shore to -secure those bulls which, eluding the vigilance of the men in the -canoes, succeeded in regaining the land; many were drowned, however, in -the attempt, and their carcasses abandoned to the turkey-buzzards, from -an inherent disgust among the people of the Llanos for the flesh of -animals which have not been killed in the usual way. On one or two -occasions, the whole troop rebelled against their drivers and succeeded -in making their escape to their pasture fields, in spite of the horsemen -on shore; others, after reaching the sloping banks across the river -below the pass, were arrested in their flight by the overhanging cliffs, -and finally hurled to a watery grave by the rapid rise of the river. - -Thus the cost of these expeditions, although exceedingly interesting to -those participating in the excitement, is sometimes greater than the -profits arising therefrom, and none but Llaneros, who are accustomed to -live on beef and water, ought to indulge in this truly savage business. -Our loss in horses alone, without reckoning the expenses of the -expedition and the danger to flesh and bone, amounted on this occasion -to about thirty animals, which in round figures, setting the value of -every horse at the minimum price of one hundred dollars, would make the -sum of three thousand dollars; while the value of the cattle itself, -many of which were also lost to us, could hardly be set down at five -dollars a head at that epoch. One of the horses was so valuable, that -our Leader requested the Doctor to attend the wounded animal and -endeavor to save his life if possible. On examination, it was found that -his bowels were partly forced out through the wound; but as he would not -allow any body to touch him, it was resolved to tie his feet; then -passing a pole through the legs of the animal, he was lifted from the -ground in a reverse position, to allow the Doctor to operate more -conveniently. It was already very dark, and the group of Llaneros -lifting the patient, with others holding up lighted torches made of rags -and tallow, and the humorous Esculapius leaning over the struggling -beast, presented a scene ludicrous in the extreme. In spite of the skill -with which he performed the operation, and the humane care of the owner, -the horse expired the same night. - -[Illustration] - -Three whole days were spent in the laborious occupation of forcing the -cattle across the river. Nor were the nights less diligently employed at -the village in the more entertaining recreation of dancing, flirting and -gambling, according to the tastes and inclinations of our motley -assembly. It must be confessed, however, that the latter had more -incentives for the people of that pastoral region than the shepherd’s -reed and crook. Occasionally a fight would occur during these nocturnal -revelries; but this, beyond some hard words and brandishing of swords -and daggers by moonlight, which rather added to the picturesqueness of -the scene, never ended in any thing very serious. - - “Caló el chapeo, requirió la espada, - Miró al soslayo, fuése y no hubo nada.” - -The river was now rising so rapidly, that in order to reach our camp in -the neighborhood of the village, we were obliged to place canoes across -the main street leading to it, for fear of coming in contact with any of -the numerous tenants of that stream. About this time the fish, conscious -of the approaching inundation of the savannas, commence to ascend the -river in search of those places best suited for spawning; and so great -is the number of those that seek a nuptial rendezvous, that the noise -they make in the water can be heard at some distance from the river. -During their migration the water becomes so tainted with their flavor, -that it is unfit to drink or wash in. Desirous of obtaining some live -specimens for sketching, I procured a _tarraya_, or throw net, which I -requested one of our men to launch near the bank; he did so; but when -he tried to lift it, he found it impossible unassisted, which made us -fear that the net had got entangled among snags at the bottom of the -river. A companion was called to our assistance, and between us three, -we soon brought it up, when, to my astonishment and delight, I found the -net full of _coporos_, _palometas_; and other delicacies; the caribes, -however, soon rendered it perfectly useless, which circumstance I -considered a misfortune, as I could not keep the fish long without -spoiling. Next day I was advised by one of the villagers to place three -or four canoes, partly filled with water, across the stream; the fish, -finding their progress arrested by the obstruction, endeavored to jump -over; in doing which they fell in the canoes by hundreds. The -contrivance succeeded so well, that every morning I could depend on a -plentiful supply, both for my sketch-book and the frying-pan. My -attention was particularly attracted this time by a large fish called -the _valenton_, from its great strength which, as I was informed, -enables him to drag a canoe after him when caught with the hook and -line. A distressing occurrence took place there which nearly cost the -life of a young man while engaged in fishing for the _valenton_. The -angler and a friend were engaged in conversation, with their lines -thrown carelessly over the sides of the canoe, when the fish seized the -bait and ran off, as he is in the habit of doing. The jerk was so -violent, that the young man was unable to hold the line, and allowed it -to slip through his hands; he was not aware that at the end of the line -there was another hook, which buried itself in the thumb of his right -hand; the next moment he was violently pitched in the water and dragged -for some distance, when fortunately the line broke, and he was picked up -almost insensible by his companion. During its gambols in the river, the -_valenton_ jumps sometimes three feet clear out of the water, raising a -large volume of spray and striking the surface with its powerful tail in -its fall; so great is the splash, that the noise can be heard a great -distance off, especially in the stillness of the night, when the fish -seems to be more busily engaged in hunting. - -The _payara_ also delights at this time in those jumps so much dreaded -by fishermen,[46] and even by people wearing any red garment about their -persons; for this fish, like the caribe, is said to be attracted by that -color, just as wild bulls are; so much so that it often happens that one -of them springs on people thus attired in the canoes, though it always -pays dearly for its temerity, as, in consequence of the peculiar -structure of its jaws, the fish cannot disentangle itself from the -garment, to which it remains attached until released by the hand of its -intended victim, who is very glad of the chance thus unexpectedly thrown -in his way, for the payara is a most delicious fish, often weighing -twenty and thirty pounds, and withal very beautiful. Of this savage -propensity people avail themselves to capture this fish without hook or -line, on the large rivers, such as the Apure and Orinoco, where they -seem to be most daring; a piece of red flannel, or some other strong -material, tied to the end of a long rod, being sufficient for the sport: -the tempting bait is held over the side of the canoe a few inches above -the surface of the water, and no sooner does the fish perceive the -alluring decoy, than with one spring it seizes it and remains as firmly -attached to it, as if held by an iron bolt; for in addition to its -formidable row of teeth, which are long and sharp as needles, the payara -has on the lower jaw two very much elongated fangs that penetrate the -head through corresponding passages in it which allow the points to -protrude close to the eyes of the fish, and unless it tears off the -piece, as it often does to the naked and arnatto-stained Indian while -paddling his canoe, the payara perishes by its own arms. - -Among the many eventful incidents of _la Independencia_ still fresh in -the memory of our Leader, he relates an anecdote in connection with the -_Libertador_, Simon Bolívar, in which both these champions of freedom -participated while engaged on an important reconnoissance during the -rainy season. The savannas being, as usual, overflowed for the most -part, and there being no other means of transportation than the frail -canoes of the country, the two chieftains were compelled to travel in -one of these over their inundated domain, with the assistance of two -Indian paddlers. Fish were so numerous, that numbers of them, disturbed -by the strokes of the paddles against the sides of the canoe, jumped in -all directions, while not a few fell amidst the distinguished -passengers. The Libertador who, like almost all great men, had also his -weak points, possessed a very nervous temperament, especially about -little things; therefore he felt quite uneasy at the unceremonious -intrusion from the finny inhabitants of his swampy realms, whose -movements he mistook for a mischievous propensity on their part to -attack the wayfarer. On the other hand, our Leader, who was always ready -to practise a good joke, seized the opportunity to occasionally tip the -canoe so as to make it ship water, and more fish along with it. -Whereupon his companion, who was not aware of the trick practised upon -him, imagining that the fish were becoming bolder as they advanced, -exclaimed in utter despair, “D----n it! _Compañero_, let us pull back, -for even the fish are savage in this country.” - -When the waters subside, thousands, nay, millions remain struggling in -the ponds and little pools, left on the savannas, where they soon perish -and rot away, tainting the air with their effluvium. Some of them, like -the _curito_, a species of Silurus, covered with transverse plates -surrounding the body, have the power of living buried in the indurated -mud, from whence they are called to life again by the returning showers. -As they form a most delicious mess, they are eagerly sought by men and -women, who resort to these places armed with wicker baskets, and collect -great numbers of the fish before they are carried away by the increasing -inundation of the savannas. - -A very singular belief, shared likewise, according to Sir Emerson -Tennent, by the people of Ceylon, exists in the Apure respecting fish -falling from the clouds. Alluding to this phenomenon, that ingenious -writer observes: “Both at Galle and Colombo in the southwest monsoon, -fish are popularly believed to have fallen from the clouds during -violent showers; but those found on the occasions that give rise to this -belief, consist of smallest fry, such as could be caught up by -water-spouts and vortices analogous to them, or otherwise blown on shore -from the surf; whereas those which suddenly appear in the replenished -tanks and in the hollows which they overflow, are mature and well-grown -fish. Besides, the latter are found under the circumstances I have -described, in all parts of the interior, whilst the prodigy of a -supposed fall of fish from the sky has been noticed, I apprehend, only -in the vicinity of the sea or of some inland water.” - -Although the author further explains the phenomenon on the supposition -that some fish are endowed with the power of locomotion over land, while -others in a torpid state remain buried in the mud until the return of -the rainy season; yet, I have been assured by reliable persons that live -fish have been picked up in places where no such possible contingencies -could occur; for instance, upon the roofs of houses or amidst wide -plains far from running water. Most of those thus found are small, from -three to seven inches long; but none of them capable of living more than -twenty minutes out of water; and the father of the writer once even -witnessed a fall of _bocachicos_, a fish which seldom lives over five -minutes out of its own element. - -In support of these views, which were embodied in my _Wild Scenes in -South America_, I now have the pleasure of adding the testimony of no -less an authority than Gosse, who has collected a number of authentic -examples of this phenomenon in his _Romance of Natural History_. -According to his statements, fish-showers have occurred in all parts of -the world, not even excepting his own country--England,--where, early in -1859, the newspapers of South Wales recorded a shower of fish in the -Valley of Aberdare. The repeated statements attracted more notice than -usual, and the Rev. John Griffith, the vicar of the parish, communicated -the results of his inquiries to the _Evening Mail_. - -“If now we look to other lands,” continues the author, “we shall find -that the descent of fishes from the atmosphere, under conditions little -understood, is a phenomenon which rests on indubitable evidence. -Humboldt has published interesting details of the ejection of fish in -large quantities from volcanoes in South America. On the night between -the 19th and 20th of June, 1698, the summit of Carguairazo, a volcano -more than 19,000 feet in height, fell in, and the surrounding country -for nearly thirty-two square miles was covered with mud and fishes. A -similar eruption of fish from the volcano of Imbabura was supposed to -have been the cause of a putrid fever which raged in the town of Ibarra -seven years before that period.” - -This is accounted for on the supposition that subterraneous lakes, -communicating with surface-waters, form in cavities in the declivities, -or at the base of a volcano. In the course of time these internal -cavities are burst open by the force of the volcanic explosions, and -their contents discharged through the water. - -But the most extraordinary account recorded by Gosse is that of Dr. -Buist, of Bombay, who, after enumerating the cases above cited, and -others of similar character, goes on to say:--“In 1824 fishes fell at -Meerut on the men of her Majesty’s 14th Regiment, then out at drill, and -were caught in numbers. In July, 1826, live fish were seen to fall on -the grass at Moradabad during a storm. They were the common _Cyprinus_, -so prevalent in our Indian waters. On the 19th of February, 1830, at -noon, a heavy fall of fish occurred at the Nokulhatty factory, in the -Daccah Zillah; depositions on the subject were obtained from nine -different parties. The fish were all dead; most of them were large; some -were fresh; others were rotten and mutilated. They were seen at first in -the sky, like a flock of birds, descending rapidly to the ground; there -was rain drizzling, but no storm. On the 16th and 17th of May, 1833, a -fall of fish occurred in the Zillah of Foottehpoor, about three miles -north of Jumna, after a violent storm of wind and rain. The fish were -from a pound and a half to three pounds in weight, and the same species -as those found in the tanks in the neighborhood. They were all dead and -dry. A fall of fish occurred at Allahabad during a storm in May, 1835; -they were of the chowla species, and were found dead and dry after the -storm had passed over the district. On the 20th of September, 1839, -after a smart shower of rain, a quantity of fish, about three inches in -length, and all of the same kind, fell at the Sunderbunds, about twenty -miles south of Calcutta. On this occasion it was remarked that the fish -did not fall here and there irregularly over the ground, but in a -continuous straight line, not more than a span in breadth. The vast -multitudes of fish with which the low grounds around Bombay are covered, -about a week or ten days after the first burst of the monsoon, appear to -be derived from the adjoining pools or rivulets, and not to descend from -the sky. They are not, as far as I know, found in the higher parts of -the island. I have never seen them, though I have watched carefully, in -casks collecting water from the roofs of buildings, or heard of them on -the decks or awnings of vessels in the harbor, where they must have -appeared had they descended from the sky. One of the most remarkable -phenomena of this kind occurred during a tremendous deluge of rain at -Kattywar, on the 25th of July, 1850, where the ground around Rajkote was -found literally covered with fish; some of them were found on the top of -haystacks, where probably they had been drifted by the storm. In the -course of twenty-four successive hours twenty-seven inches of rain fell; -thirty-five fell in twenty-six hours, seven inches in one hour and a -half, being the heaviest fall on record. At Poonah, on the 3d of August, -1852, after a very heavy fall of rain, multitudes of fish were caught on -the ground in the cantonments, full half a mile from the nearest stream. -If showers of fish are to be explained on the assumption that they are -carried up by squalls or violent winds from rivers or spaces of water -not far away from where they fall, it would be nothing wonderful were -they seen to descend from the air during the furious squalls which -occasionally occur in July.” - -Sir E. Tennent, before cited, also witnessed in Ceylon another of those -fish-showers:--“I had an opportunity, on one occasion only, of -witnessing the phenomenon which gives rise to this popular belief. I was -driving in the cinnamon gardens near the fort of Colombo, and saw a -violent but partial shower descend at no great distance before me. On -coming to the spot, I found a multitude of small silvery fish, from one -and a half to two inches in length, leaping on the gravel of the high -road, numbers of which I collected and brought away in my palanquin. The -spot was about half a mile from the sea, and entirely unconnected with -any water-course or pool.”[47] - -The same curious fact respecting the habits of certain kinds of fish in -the _Llanos_, which bury themselves in the mud at the close of the rainy -season, also appears to take place in India and Ceylon; for, according -to Gosse, “the pools, reservoirs, and tanks are well provided with fish -of various species, though the water twice every year becomes perfectly -evaporated, and the mud of the bottom is entirely converted into dust, -or takes the condition of baked clay, gaping with wide and deep clefts, -in which not the slightest sign of moisture can be detected. This is the -case with temporary hollows in the soil, which have no connection with -running streams or permanent waters, from which they might be supposed -to receive a fresh stock of fish.” - -After proving conclusively that these fishes could not proceed from -either the clouds, as the generality of people believe, nor from -impregnated ova, as Mr. Farrell suggests, the author observes:--“Neither -of these hypotheses, then, will account for the fact; and we must admit -that the fishes of these regions, have the instinct to burrow down in -the solid mud of the bottom, at the approach of the dry season, and the -power of retaining life, doubtless in a torpid condition, until the -return of the periodic rains, as Theophrastus long ago observed.” - -But, who ever heard of showers of toads and frogs? Yet, such is the -fact, astonished reader; and were you to visit with me some of the -lagoons and ponds of South America at night, you would not fail to -notice that the air, as well as the earth and waters, seems filled with -the piercing, deafening noise proceeding from them. “According to -travellers in tropical America, the inhabitants of Porto Bello assert -that every drop of rain is changed into a toad; the most instructed, -however, believe that the spawn of these animals is raised with the -vapor from the adjoining swamps, and, being driven in the clouds over -the city, the ova are hatched as they descend in rain. ’Tis certain that -the streets after a night of heavy rain are almost covered with the -ill-favored reptiles; and it is impossible to walk without crushing -them. But heretic philosophers point to the mature growth of the vermin, -many of them being six inches in length, and maintain that the -hypothesis just mentioned will scarcely account for the appearance of -these.”[48] - -But it is not South America alone that can boast of such an -extraordinary phenomenon; for the same accomplished author records -similar showers as occurring in England and various parts of the -Continent: “In two or three of these cases, the toads were not only -observed in countless numbers on the ground during and after heavy -storms of rain, but were seen to strike upon the roofs of houses, -bounding thence into the streets; they even fell upon the hats, and, in -one instance, were actually received into the outstretched hand.” - -It would seem that not even quadrupeds are exempt there, from the same -rule, for we often hear the phrase in English, “If it should rain cats -and dogs,” which I, for want of a better acquaintance with English -phraseology, am at a loss how to interpret. We all know that -stone-showers are not uncommon, especially ever since “the thunderer,” -Jupiter, _alias_ Jove, lost his power among us through the advancing -strides of civilization. Previous to this, we are told of his paying -occasional visits to his lady-loves on earth in the shape of golden -showers, which have been exchanged subsequently for a less costly -material; but showers of “cats and dogs” I do not believe ever occurred, -even to an old sinner like him. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - -THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. - - -Marvellous as the Apure river is in point of living creatures, it is -nothing in comparison with the Orinoco, into which it flows, and the -Amazon river, that connects with the Orinoco through the Casiquiare and -Rio Negro. The recent explorations of Professor Agassiz in the Amazon, -and the former researches of Wallace on the latter river, prove, I hope -conclusively, that my statements concerning the fishes of these regions -are far below the mark in point of numbers, and that there is _no end_ -to the varieties. Wallace, who spent nearly four years on the Rio Negro -collecting objects of natural history for the British Museum, and whose -principal fare consisted of the fish caught by his men, tells us, “I -began now to take a great interest in the beauty and variety of the -species, and, whenever I could, I made accurate drawings and -descriptions of them. Many are of a most excellent flavor, surpassing -anything I have tasted in England, either from the fresh or the salt -waters; and many species have real fat, which renders the water they are -boiled in a rich and agreeable broth. Not a drop of this is wasted, but, -with a little pepper and _farinha_, is all consumed, with as much relish -as if it were the most delicate soup.”[49] - -And Agassiz, in his interesting lectures on the same subject, says: -“Now, what are the fishes which inhabit the Amazon? for I wanted to say -all this simply as a preparation to give you some definite idea of the -various types of fish which we find in that mighty basin. Not one of -those fishes with which we are familiar in our rivers is to be found -there; not one of those which are known in the rivers of Europe is to be -found there; not one from any other fresh water basin is to be found -there. The Amazon has fishes of its own, utterly different from those of -any other basin, and these fishes are different from those in all other -fresh water rivers of Brazil, and in each part of the Amazon there are -fish of a peculiar character, so that those which inhabit the lower -course of the Amazon differ from those found in the upper. So great is -the variety, that in small lakes of water, at parts of the Amazon, we -find an endless variety. I examined a little lake, just at the junction -of the Rio Negro with the Amazon. The lake was only a few hundred yards -in extent, and in that pool, for it was hardly anything more, I found in -the course of two months over two hundred different kinds of fish, and -three times larger than can be found in the Mississippi or in the -Senegal or Ganges or Nile. The number of fish found in the whole basin -of the Amazon is not less than two thousand different kinds, that is, -ten times as many as were known about a century ago to exist in the -whole world. And strange to say, it would seem that, in proportion as we -become acquainted with a larger number of these animals they should be -found to resemble one another more and more. On the contrary, however, -such are the peculiarities of their features, such is the infinite -number of circumstances which brings about differences among them, that -in proportion as I find a larger and larger number, I find the -difference between them seems to grow, and though it appears -paradoxical, it is strictly true.” - -And returning now to the Orinoco, the good missionary and -historiographer of that noble river, Father Gumilla, tells us that “So -great is the multitude of fishes and turtles, that the slime, excrements -and continual blood shed by those which devour or wound each other, is -the principal cause of the heaviness and bad taste of the water of the -Orinoco, which is also the case in some of the rivers of Hungary, and -can be more readily perceived in basins or reservoirs devoted to the -preservation of live fish, where the water soon becomes tainted and -unpalatable, although it may go in and out freely. - -“What astonishes still more is the novelty of the species and curious -shapes of these fishes, so different from those of our Europe, for not -even the sardinas have the flavor nor the shape of these. All that we -can say, after a careful examination of these fishes, is, this one -resembles somewhat the trout, that one the sole, etc.; but no one can -say with certainty this is like any in Europe. But what of it, when it -is a fact that the fish found in the waters of the _tierra caliente_ are -totally different from those of the _tierra fria_?” - -Of the modes of fishing practised by the Indians of his Mission, he also -tells us many curious devices. “Observe,” he says, “those four canoes, -manned by the boys of the Doctrina, and darting side by side along the -river; well, this is the most novel and the most curious mode of fishing -ever devised, as the fishes here called Bocachicos, Palometas, Lizas, -Sardinas, and many other kinds of smaller fry, jump of their own accord -into the canoes in such quantities that, were not the paddlers expert -enough and their craft propelled with such rapidity, these would soon -fill up and sink with the weight of the fish that fall in them; for each -kind has its proper season for spawning, and with the object of saving -some of their ova to multiply their species, they have been taught by -the Supreme Author of Nature to quit their haunts and seek some -convenient eddy, where, placing their tails against the current, they -receive in their gills the little eggs which may chance to fall in them; -and these are the only ones saved, the rest being devoured by other -fishes, whose numbers at and near these currents is immense, one shoal -crowding on the top of another.” - -In the rivers and streams of minor importance, where fish are not so -abundant, the natives, by way of pastime, and also to vary their fare, -avail themselves of the roots of two plants--the _cuna_ and the -_barbasco_,[50] both of which possess the singular peculiarity of -intoxicating fish, even when the smallest quantity of the juice of the -roots is thrown in the stream, producing such commotion among the finny -inhabitants, that they fall an easy prey to the Indians, who take a -special delight in this wholesale slaughter. The _cuna_ is a small -plant, somewhat like clover, producing a bulbous root like a small -turnip, but with very different smell and taste, and the _barbasco_, a -vine, very common in all parts of the country, and although both are -exceedingly deleterious to fish, they are not so to other creatures. The -process is very simple: A quantity of the roots or vines is slightly -pounded with a wooden mallet and thrown in the water, and no sooner do -the fish perceive the smell of it, than they rush frantically up and -down the stream to avoid its contact; those which take the former course -find their progress arrested by a file of Indians, who, armed with -poles, beat about the water to turn them back, which they quickly do, -but only to find their retreat cut off in that direction too, for their -cunning assailants have already taken the precaution to bar the stream -with a double row of stakes, the lower one higher than the upper. Not -discouraged in the least, the larger and stronger fish make another rush -up the stream; but no sooner do they come in contact with the noxious -herb than they retreat again towards the barricade, and here, -redoubling their energies, leap over the first row of stakes, and thus -find themselves entrapped within the narrow limits of the stockade. In -the meantime the smaller fish, having neither the strength nor the -courage to save themselves, become thoroughly intoxicated with the -juices already disseminated in the water, and fall an easy prey to the -joyous urchins, who pounce upon them, and transfer them to the baskets -they carry for the purpose. This is a very amusing mode of fishing, and -during the excitement produces much merriment among the Indians; now a -fish slaps a redskin on the face with its tail; another one strikes -against the bare ribs of some one else, which never fails to draw peals -of laughter from their companions, who, in turn, become themselves the -laughing-stock of the others from similar mishaps. - -But the most amusing contrivance practised by these people with the -_cuna_ is the following: An Indian takes a quantity of boiled maize and -grinds it to paste; one half of it is thoroughly incorporated with the -_cuna_, while the other half he reserves as a decoy to attract the fish -to a particular spot: he then calls his children, who, armed with -baskets, follow their father to the stream; here the fisherman commences -to throw small pellets of the unprepared paste in the water, which never -fails to attract great numbers of sardines, palometas, and other -delicacies, and changing suddenly his tactics, he exchanges the harmless -bait for the other, which no sooner is swallowed by the fish, than they -commence to turn somersaults in the air, with other antics no less -amusing to the boys, who as quickly transfer them to their baskets. It -is almost incredible the amount of fish that is thus procured in a short -time, enabling a poor Indian not only to supply the wants of his family, -but to afford his children a lively recreation. - -Still another mode of fishing, equally ingenious, is practised by the -Indians when the waters commence to ebb towards the Orinoco at the end -of the great floods, by means of strong stockades thrown across the -outlet of the great lagunas, which are the receptacle of immense -quantity of larger game, such as turtles and vagres (species of catfish) -weighing from fifty to seventy-five pounds; laulaus or valentones, from -two hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds; and above all, -innumerable manatís, from five hundred to one thousand pounds. European -Spaniards call this animal _Vaca Marina_, or sea cow, and the Brazilians -_Peixe Boi_, ox-fish, from its feeding on grass, and other peculiarities -which assimilate it to the bovine species. The manatí abounds in the -Apure, the Meta, and most of the large tributaries of the Orinoco below -the cataracts, and more especially in the lagoons formed by these rivers -during the season of great floods, which he prefers on account of the -abundant and tender food they offer them. Of this the astute Indians -avail themselves to entrap them, as no sooner do the waters commence to -fall than they watch attentively the channel through which the lake they -have chosen as a fish-magazine--for no better name can be applied, from -the finny multitude they secure there for months--is likely to drain -off. To this spot resort the entire population of the village or tribe, -who immediately commence to cut stakes of the requisite length and of -great thickness, to resist the onset of the formidable phalanxes of -monster fishes seeking a passage to the river. The stakes are then -driven in the bed of the channel close enough to permit only the exit of -the water and of the smaller fish, excluding the turtles and the fish of -greater magnitude. The stockade is further reinforced by cross-beams of -great strength thrown across the channel, firmly secured at both ends, -and resting against the stakes; and for greater security they further -strengthen them by an outer row of trunks of trees driven in the ground -close to the stockade. It may appear superfluous to take such -precautions against the apparently defenceless hosts imprisoned within -the boundaries of the lagoon; but so great and powerful are in fact the -avalanches of manatís struggling against this formidable barrier, that -it is often found necessary to reinforce it twice, and even three times -in the course of the season. - -Indeed it is scarcely credible, the number and size of the creatures -secured in this manner, whole tribes of Indians subsisting for months -together on the supply afforded by one of these reservoirs; but as these -lagoons eventually drain off towards the close of the rainy season, and -the Indians cannot exhaust them in spite of their insatiate voracity, -they are compelled at last, though reluctantly, to remove the -obstruction in time to allow the fish to return to the bed of the -stream before they are cut off from it; and it is asserted that on one -occasion, having neglected this precaution in time, more than three -thousand manatís, and a still greater number of large fish, perished in -the shallow water of one of these lagoons, with the exception only of -the turtles, who were, of course, in their element. - -The manatí is a _herbivorous_ animal of the cetaceous family, of which -the whale is the type, and attains here from twelve to fifteen feet in -length. Some are caught that weigh over a thousand pounds. In shape it -resembles a seal somewhat, though its eyes and auricular organs are -extremely small, but very acute, so much so that great care is required -on the part of the fisherman who goes in pursuit of it, not to strike -the sides of his canoe with the paddle and frighten the game off. Its -principal means of propulsion exist in its tail, which is flat and -round, from three to four feet broad, and very powerful; but it -possesses in addition two pectoral fins, or armlets, situated at a -proportionate distance from the head, and these enable the animal to -come out of the water to browse on the rich herbage by the banks of -rivers and lagoons: these armlets serve the female, in addition, to hold -its young--always two in number, male and female--close to its breasts, -until they are old enough to follow the mother and eat grass, their only -food; and it is a curious fact, that although the mother often -delights--as is the habit of these cetacea--in gambols in the water, -when they sometimes jump several feet out of their element, they never -lose hold of their twins. - -The anatomy of this fresh-water whale is very curious, according to -Humboldt, who dissected one while on his way to the Orinoco. “The upper -lip was four inches longer than the lower one. It was covered with a -very fine skin, and served as a proboscis. The inside of the mouth, -which has a _sensible_ warmth in the animal newly killed, presented a -very singular conformation. The tongue was almost motionless; but in -front of the tongue there was a fleshy excrescence in each jaw, and a -cavity lined with a very hard skin, into which the excrescence fitted. -The manatí eats such quantities of grass that we have found its stomach, -which is divided into several cavities, and its intestines (one hundred -and eight feet long) filled with it. Opening the animal at the back, we -were struck with the magnitude, form, and situation of its lungs. They -have very large cells, and resemble immense swimming-bladders. They are -three feet long; filled with air, they have a bulk of more than a -thousand cubic inches. I was surprised to see that, possessing such -receptacles of air, the manatí comes so often to the surface of the -water to breathe. Its flesh is very savory, though, from what prejudice -I know not, it is considered unhealthy and apt to produce fever. It -appeared to me to resemble pork rather than beef. It is most esteemed by -the Guamos and Ottomacs; and these two nations are particularly expert -in catching the manatí. The fat of the animal, known by the name of -manatí-butter (_manteca de manatí_) is used for lamps in the churches, -and is also employed in preparing food. It has not the fetid smell of -whale oil, or that of the other cetaceous animals which spout water. -The hide of the manatí, which is more than an inch and a half in -thickness, is cut into slips, and serves, like thongs of ox-leather, to -supply the place of cordage in the Llanos. When immersed in water, it -has the defect of undergoing a slight degree of putrefaction. Whips are -made from it in the Spanish colonies. Hence the words _latigo_ and -_manatí_ are synonymous. These whips of manatí leather are a cruel -instrument of punishment for the unhappy slaves, and even for the -Indians of the Missions, though, according to the laws, the latter ought -to be treated like freemen.” - -The address displayed by an Indian of the Orinoco in capturing with the -harpoon one of these monsters and bringing it into port, with only the -assistance of his wife to paddle and steer the frail canoe, is most -wonderful. While the woman propels the canoe, the man stands erect at -the bow, watching intently the moment when the manatí comes up to the -surface to breathe, which it does every few minutes. Off flies the -double-barbed harpoon from the hands of the fisherman, and implants -itself in the thick hide of the doomed monster, which no sooner feels -the piercing blow, than away it darts at a fearful rapidity, dragging -along after it the frail canoe, to the bow of which is attached one end -of the thong made from the tough hide of the manatí, while to the other -end is firmly secured the iron head of the harpoon itself. After vain -endeavors to avoid the danger that threatens it, now dashing rapidly -against the stream for an hour or so, now seeking the calm surface of a -neighboring lagoon, during which time the sporting couple manage with -difficulty to keep their seats at the bottom of the canoe, holding fast -to the sides of it with both hands, the monster, bleeding and exhausted -after its precipitate flight, begins at last to slacken its pace, and -finally stops altogether. Now the hunter commences to pull it towards -him with much caution; but no sooner does the animal perceive the -dreaded canoe with its savage occupants, than off it sets anew at the -same lightning speed, though this time of less duration; again the -hunter pulls the game towards him, and again it endeavors to fly from -him; but having lost nearly all its strength, and probably convinced of -the uselessness of further efforts to escape, it now stops, rolls on its -back, and calmly awaits its fate on the surface of the water. By this -time the canoe is alongside of the captive, and, without further -concern, the Indian cuts it open with his knife, and as soon as the -water penetrates to its entrails, the great monster dies without a -struggle. And now, “what shall we do with it,” in the midst of a river -or lagoon four or five miles in width? How is this creature--weighing -perhaps a thousand pounds, and nearly as long as the canoe--to be landed -safely on the shore? How can a single man, assisted only by a frail -woman, without firm ground to set their feet upon, manage to stow away -the cumbrous load? Nothing easier, incredulous reader; “first catch the -hare and then make the soup,” and this the Indian hunter daily practises -in his native wilds, without much culinary advice from Mrs. Glass. -Having secured their game, the hunters, or fishers, plunge in the water, -swimming all the while with their feet and one hand, while with the -other they tip over the canoe until it partly fills with water, which -brings it on a level with the carcass of the manatí; this accomplished, -the rest of the operation is easily done by sliding the canoe under the -carcass, and then baling out the water by means of calabash cups, which -cover their heads in lieu of hats. In proportion as they bale out the -water, the canoe rises above the surface, and when sufficiently high to -permit its being safely navigated through the boisterous waves of the -Orinoco, the husband leaps on the head of the animal and calmly takes -his seat, while the wife does the same on the broad tail of the monster -fish, and directing the bow of the canoe towards the shore, they paddle -themselves along with their cumbrous freight, which is soon disposed of -among the numerous relations and friends, who anxiously await their -arrival on the beach. - -[Illustration: SCENES AT EL DORADO--(From a photograph.)] - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - -THE LAND OF EL DORADO. - - “And yet unspoiled - Guiana, whose great city Geryon’s sons[51] - Call El Dorado.”--_Paradise Lost_, Book xi. - - -Before we quit the shores of the Apure, I will invite the reader to -follow me in imagination, or, better still, in one of the many _bongos_ -trading between this and the Orinoco river, on to the adjoining province -of Guayana, or _Guiana_, as it is more commonly known among English -writers and explorers. This will give us an opportunity of gliding over -one of the greatest rivers in the world, which nearly encircles a vast -territory hardly known to civilized man, that is just now attracting a -great deal of notice on account of the recent gold discoveries made -there; a country unsurpassed in natural treasures and resources; a sort -of hidden paradise which greedy gold-hunters of former times sought in -vain under the gilded name of EL DORADO, and which, strange to say, has -remained, like the wealth of California, undiscovered until recently. - -What a train of awful recollections this once magic name of EL DORADO -brings to mind! What tales of woe, of daring adventure and blasted hopes -it has left behind for the entertainment and raillery of subsequent -generations! And yet, the gallant Raleigh--Sir Walter--like Galileo -before the tribunal of the Inquisition, was right in his belief that -there was gold enough in Guayana to load the entire fleet of Great -Britain in his time. - -But let us not anticipate the narrative of events, which will come, each -one in its turn. Availing ourselves, therefore, of the gentle current of -the Apure, we will proceed on our journey, stopping here and there to -get a shot at the enormous crocodiles--larger than any we have yet -seen--which infest its waters near its confluence with the Orinoco; and -perhaps also at some thirsty jaguar taking its young to drink. Humboldt -has described these scenes so vividly, that I must refer the reader to -the third volume of his “Travels,” Bohn’s edition, for further -information on the subject. - -Proceeding down the river, which here presents the singularity of -becoming narrower, on account of infiltrations through a spongy and -sandy soil, as well as other causes, we come suddenly upon a vast -expanse of waters, presenting all the appearance of an agitated sea, -from the conflict between breeze and current. This is the grand old -river we are in quest of, the Orinoco. “The air resounded no longer -with the piercing cries of herons, flamingos, and spoonbills, crossing -in long files from one shore to the other. Our eyes sought in vain those -water-fowls, the habits of which vary in each climate. Scarcely could we -discover in the hollows of the waves a few large crocodiles, cutting -obliquely, by the help of their long tails, the surface of the agitated -waters. The horizon was bounded by a zone of forests, which nowhere -reached so far as the bed of the river. A vast beach, constantly parched -by the heat of the sun, desert and bare as the shores of the sea, -resembles at a distance, from the effects of the mirage, pools of -stagnant water. In these scattered features, we recognize the course of -the Orinoco, one of the most majestic rivers of the New World.”[52] - -At this point the Orinoco, already enriched with the tribute of the -Guaviare, the Inirida, the Meta, and the Arauca, which, like the Apure, -have their sources amidst the snowy mountains of New Granada, suddenly -changes its course, and, in conjunction with the latter, flows nearly in -a straight line towards the Atlantic, after describing an arc of a -circle around the western portion of Guayana. The vast territory thus -encompassed within its mighty embrace gives rise also to numerous other -rivers hardly inferior in magnitude to the above-named, such as the -Ventuari, the Cuchivero, the Paragua, the Caura, the Caroni, etc., all -of which flow into the Orinoco from the south, thus contributing to -swell the volume of its waters to the extent that it presents by the -time it reaches the ocean on the fifteenth meridian of longitude east of -Washington. Our route being in this direction also, we will not follow -the illustrious traveller in his laborious exploration of the Upper -Orinoco, the Casiquiare and the Rio Negro. I would, however, advise -those who are not conversant with his works to read his description of -the _Raudales_, or Great Rapids of Atures and Maipures, which he has -sketched with a masterly hand in his _Tableaux de la Nature_. The -following passage, quoted from said work, will convey to the reader some -idea of the magnificence of the river at that point:-- - - “A foaming surface of four miles in length presents itself at once - to the eye: iron black masses of rock, resembling ruins and - battlemented towers, rise frowning from the waters. Rocks and - islands are adorned with the luxuriant vegetation of the tropical - forest; a perpetual mist hovers over the waters, and the summits of - the lofty palms pierce through the clouds of spray and vapor. When - the rays of the glowing evening sun are refracted in their humid - exhalations, a magic optical effect begins. Colored bows shine, - vanish, and reappear; and the ethereal image is swayed to and fro - by the breath of the sportive breeze. During the long rainy season, - the streaming waters bring down islands of vegetable mould, and - thus the naked rocks are studded with bright flower-beds adorned - with melastomas and droseras, and with silver-leaved mimosas and - ferns. These spots recall to the recollection of the European those - blocks of granite decked with flowers which rise solitary amidst - the glaciers of Savoy, and are called by the dwellers in the Alps - ‘Jardins,’ or ‘Courtils.’” - -This is the country of the India-rubber and the Brazil-nut trees, two of -the most stupendous denizens of the tropical forest; of the wild cacao, -the fragrant sarapia, or tonka-bean, the sassafras-laurel, the ananas or -wild pine-apple, and of numberless other useful products, as well as -baneful drugs; for here is gathered the mavacure-vine, from the juice of -which the Indians of this region compound the most virulent poison known -in nature, the _curare_, which the natives employ most effectively in -procuring game by the aid of their blow-pipes. So quick and certain are -its effects, that an animal wounded by one of the small arrows used for -the purpose drops dead before the creature is hardly conscious of its -danger; and singular enough, no evil effects whatever arise from -partaking of the game thus killed; for the _curare_ is perfectly -harmless when taken internally. - -The Raudales are at present a serious impediment to the free navigation -of the river up to the frontiers of Brazil; although, as Humboldt justly -remarks, this obstruction could be avoided by cutting a canal around -them, the nature of the ground offering ample facilities for this -purpose; but this cannot be done advantageously until the country shall -be better stocked with population than at present. - -Proceeding down the stream, the only town of any importance we encounter -on the route is Ciudad Bolívar, formerly Angostura, which is the capital -of the State of Guayana and a mart of considerable trade with the llanos -of Apure, Calabozo, and Barinas. The old name of the city was changed in -honor of the Liberator, Simon Bolívar, who, after expelling the -Spaniards from New Granada, assembled here the first Congress which -proclaimed the union of the republic of Colombia in 1819. Pleasantly -situated on a bluff several feet above the high-water level of the -river, about three hundred miles from the sea, and connected by its -numerous tributaries with a country nearly as large as continental -Europe, Ciudad Bolívar is destined to become the seat of a vast -commerce, when the now almost desert region of Guayana shall have opened -its golden treasures to an enterprising generation. At present it -contains about ten thousand inhabitants; has a fine cathedral, -government house, and very handsome private residences and warehouses. -The business, according to all accounts, has fallen off greatly since -the war of seven years which, under the alleged name of _Federacion_, -devastated the rest of the republic. Happily for the State of Guayana, -it has always been kept free from these periodical turmoils by the -efforts of some truly patriotic men--among others, John B. Dalla-Costa, -Jr., the present President of the State, under whose enlightened -administration public improvements, roads, hospitals, schools, etc., are -being established, and the nucleus of a foreign immigration started on -the way to the gold fields. The commercial houses are principally -German, French, and Italian; but of late many Southern refugees from the -United States have been induced to try their fortunes on the banks of -the Orinoco; and, judging from past experience in the rapid development -of California and Australia, through the energies of the Anglo-Saxon -race, the _placers_ of that golden paradise bid fair to become another -centre of commercial intercourse with foreign nations. - -It was from this place that the first expedition in search of El Dorado, -on this side of the continent, set out in 1595. None of those composing -it ever came back, however, to tell the sad tale of their discomfiture -by the fierce tribes of Indians which dwelt on the fine savannas lying -between the Caroni and Paragua rivers, beyond which popular belief, -assisted by the traditions of the aborigines themselves, had settled -definitely the existence of a region abounding in gold. Previous to -this, however, the fame of El Dorado had spread over the western part of -South America, and several expeditions had been fitted out in Venezuela, -New Granada, Quito, and Peru, with the avowed object of conquering the -wealthy empire of the Omeguas, whose sovereign, El Dorado, or the -“gilded king,” was represented as dwelling in palaces with columns of -massive gold. The climate of that region being warm throughout the year, -and the morals of the inhabitants not yet perverted by contact with -their would-be civilizers, his majesty’s attire, it was asserted, was in -keeping with the glitter of his dominions; a simple coating of -balsamiferous resins, in which the country abounds, followed by a -sprinkling of gold-dust through the hollow tube of a bamboo, twice a -day, being sufficient to distinguish him from the rest of his naked -subjects: hence the name. But this sort of drapery being rather -uncomfortable at bed-time, it was removed every night by simply washing -with water--a most delightful luxury in warm countries--and as easily -replaced on the following day. Where such _embarras de richesse_ could -be indulged in by a demi-savage monarch, gold mines must exist in -abundance; the sands of the rivers and lakes must consist of fine gold, -and the pebbles and rocks of the same precious metal. People were not, -however, in perfect accord respecting the precise locality of said -auriferous kingdom; some placing it on the eastern side of Guayana, as -already stated, under the name of _El Dorado de la Parime_; others, two -hundred and fifty leagues to the westward of this, near the eastern -slope of the Andes of New Granada; while not a few contended that it was -situated in the country of the Omeguas, somewhere near the waters of the -Upper Amazon. - -Such were the vague notions concerning the country of El Dorado, which -the people of former times sought in vain at the cost of many lives and -vast amounts of treasure. Strange blindness! when they had it right -before their eyes! for, as the noble missionary writer often quoted, -Father Gumilla, tells us respecting the wealth of South America: “Let us -ask the Englishman, Keymisco,[53] and other captains, countrymen of -his: Friends, what journeys are these? for what purpose so many -dangerous voyages, so many losses of treasure, ships, and sailors?[54] -Let us ask both Pizarros in Peru and Quito; both Quesadas in Santa Fé de -Bogotá; Orellana, on the Marañon, and Berrio on the Meta, as well as -many other famous chieftains: Gentlemen, what’s your hurry? what the -object of so many armaments, marches, and arduous explorations, -dangerous and painful?--‘We seek,’ they answer ‘the famous and opulent -El Dorado: let no one, therefore, be astonished at our determination and -earnest purpose; for what is worth much, must entail great sacrifices.’” - - “The Athenians burst into laughter when they met and heard Diogenes - seeking for a man; but they laughed most foolishly, inasmuch as the - philosopher sought a man of truth only! one who should profess it - in earnest; and it should have been a matter of shame, rather than - raillery, with the men of Athens, to learn that so great a - philosopher could not find one among them. But we shall not err if - we laugh at the simplicity of those noble conquerors. Most singular - spectacle! To see so many Spanish chieftains stumbling at each step - over an El Dorado of inexhaustible richness, as is in reality the - entire new kingdom of Granada, and Tierra Firme, so abundant in - gold, silver, and emerald mines, such as those already found within - the jurisdictions of Pamplona, Mariquita, Muso, Neiva, Los - Remedios, Antioquia, Anserma, Choco, Barvacoas, and a great many - more which are waiting to be brought to light, as is indicated by - the golden sands carried down by rivers and torrents from the - mountains; thus showing their willingness to be disentombed. - Therefore, if there are so many scores of Dorados, immensely rich - and superabundant, only waiting to be worked; why so much - restlessness, so much expenditure and wandering after a Dorado? - What need had Peru to risk her militia in unknown regions to suffer - and perish in pursuit of a Dorado, while she possesses the - unrivalled golden fields of Caravalla, with many others? And the - inexhaustible silver mountain of Potosi, to say nothing of other - veins of the same metal, almost innumerable, though less prolific? - It was indeed a singular idea to seek abroad, at great cost of life - and treasure, the very thing they possessed at home.”[55] - -Nothing in the history of modern adventure can compare in hardihood, -determination, and reckless disregard of life, with those haphazard -undertakings in the heart of South America which, although proving -invariably most disastrous to their promoters, resulted ultimately in a -real benefit to the colonial possessions of Spain in the New World, by -extending the geographical knowledge of those regions. To fully -comprehend the nature of the task which these adventurers imposed upon -themselves, it will suffice to say, with regard to Venezuela, that few -spots only, and these far apart, were then occupied by Europeans along -its extensive sea-coast. The thirst for gold, which characterized the -spirit of the time, and the reputation the country enjoyed for the -precious metal, as well as for the fine pearls obtained at Margarita and -other places, had attracted thither a crowd of lawless adventurers from -all parts of Europe, but more especially from Germany--the Emperor -Charles the Fifth having, in an evil hour, granted to a company of -Teutonic speculators all the territory comprised between Cabo de la Vela -and Maracapana, with privilege to capture and use as slaves all those of -the native inhabitants who should resist their exactions. The power thus -conferred on those merciless adventurers was freely used by them to -enslave the doomed lords of the land, who were hunted like wild beasts -in all directions, and quickly transported to the mines of Hispaniola, -or Saint Domingo, where they perished by thousands, the native -population of that island having already been exterminated in this -manner. To accomplish their work more effectually, expeditions were -organized and despatched to all parts of the country, some of which -penetrated beyond the llanos of Apure, Casanare, and Meta, as far as -the Caqueta and Putumayo, tributary rivers of the Upper Amazon. Others, -still more bold, disregarding the frigid blasts of the Sierra Nevada, -with its dizzy precipices and yawning chasms, sought the “Land of gold” -in a westerly direction, fighting their way not only against a frowning -nature, but also against the hardy mountain tribes, who disputed every -inch of ground to the bearded invaders. It was in this manner that the -rich domain of Cundinamarca, in New Granada, was made known to the -colonists of Venezuela, by Nicholas Federmann, in 1539, although Jimenez -de Quesada had preceded him, and Sebastian de Benalcazar, by the way of -the river Magdalena from the coast of Cartagena. - -“The junction of three bodies of troops on the table-land of New -Granada,” says Humboldt, “spread through all that part of America -occupied by the Spaniards the news of an immensely rich and populous -country, which remained to be conquered. Sebastian de Benalcazar marched -from Quito by way of Popayan (1536) to Bogotá; Nicolas Federmann, coming -from Venezuela, arrived from the east by the plains of Casanare and -Meta. These two captains found, already settled on the table-land of -Cundinamarca, the famous Adelantado Gonzalo Jimenez de Quesada, one of -whose descendants I saw near Zipaquirá, with bare feet, attending -cattle. The fortuitous meeting of the three conquistadores, one of the -most extraordinary and dramatic events of the history of the conquest, -took place in 1536.” - -No better avenger of the wrongs perpetrated on the unfortunate -aborigines could have been provided against their merciless persecutors, -than this phantom of untold wealth, which, like the fugitive fountain -before Tantalus, haunted them day and night, in the camp of the wearied -soldier, in the alcove of the proud Hidalgo, and even in the quiet -seclusion of the cloister. And yet one cannot but admire the pluck of -those hardy cavaliers of old who, regardless of the almost insuperable -difficulties presented by an unknown and savage country, went boldly in -search of this new Ophir over lofty mountain ranges and desert plains, -which, even at this day, are the terror of the wayfarer. Three centuries -later, when Bolívar, with a well-appointed army and better roads than -Federmann met in his famous expedition, crossed the Cordilleras from the -plains of Venezuela, and undertook the recovery of New Granada from the -Spaniards in 1819, he lost nearly all his baggage-mules, and many -valuable lives besides, amidst the wintry _páramos_ of that tempestuous -ridge. - -Of the earliest expeditions in search of El Dorado, those undertaken by -Jorge de Spira in 1534, and by Felipe de Urre or Utre,[56] in 1541, from -the coast of Coro, Venezuela, rank among the most extraordinary on -record. The former of these worthies had received the title of -_adelantado_, or governor, to the German colony in Tierra Firme, a -dignity which was associated in those days with the more vainglorious -aspirations of the conqueror, or _conquistador_, and to this end were -directed, more or less, all the efforts of the men appointed to places -of distinction in the New World, without neglecting to provide -themselves with the more substantial perquisites of the fraternity in -the shape of Indian captives, pearls, and gold. Accordingly, the -Adelantado took especial care to bring with him from Spain a force of -about four hundred men, many of whom were persons of distinction, and -landed in Coro in the early part of February of that year. - -Without troubling himself much about the affairs of the colony, the new -Adelantado proceeded immediately to scour the country in search of gold; -but finding none amongst the savage tribes he encountered beyond the -mountains of the coast, boldly plunged into the _mare magnum_ of the -llanos, in spite of the opposition of the natives and the asperity of -the route. The vernal deluge of the low lands, however, put a stop in -due time to further progress, compelling him to seek the protection of -the hilly country to the westward, where years after was founded the -city of Barinas. Here he spent several months waiting for the return of -the dry season, and in vain endeavors to obtain provisions in a country -solely inhabited by savage tribes, that did not disdain to confront the -superior mettle of his men whenever they had a chance. Reduced at last -to the greatest extremity by famine and sickness, the Governor -despatched a portion of his force under one of his most tried captains, -with orders to penetrate into the valleys formed by the lofty range of -mountains further west. - -Goaded by hunger, and with the hope of finding more promising realms -than those they had encountered on the route from Coro, the soldiers of -Spira did not stop until they discovered on a high mountain what seemed -to be the granary of the tribes appertaining to that district, which -they were not slow in transporting to headquarters. Somewhat restored -with this opportune supply of food, and not in the least daunted by the -dangers that threatened him, Spira resolved to proceed on his forlorn -journey, sending back to Coro the sick and wounded under a competent -escort, which was to rejoin him in his camp. This accomplished, the -Adelantado resumed his march across the plains in a southward direction. -Keeping in sight of the western cordillera, and guided by the celestial -constellations at night, Spira and his brave companions presented the -spectacle so well described by Goldsmith in the following lines:-- - - “To distant climes, a dreary scene, - Where half the convex world intrudes between, - Through torrid tracks with fainting step they go.” - _The Deserted Village._ - -After several months of arduous vicissitudes, when they nearly all -perished for want of provisions, subsisting in the mean time on the -tender shoots of heliconias and the most loathsome reptiles, they -stopped at last on the banks of the river Upia, having crossed many -others of no less consequence, such as the Apure, the Sarare, and the -Casanare, by what means the chronicles of the time do not tell us. -Completely exhausted now, and again threatened by the approaching rainy -season, the weary caravan prepared to winter there, selecting for the -purpose some high ground near a forest, upon which they built huts and -considered themselves secure against the vernal flood. Vain precautions! -The thundering voice of the tropical tempest made itself heard at -length, and neither human ingenuity, nor high bank, nor tangled forest, -could turn aside the mighty swell which, like a partial deluge, sweeps -over the boundless plain at the vernal equinox. Thus the bold -Castilians, after courageously braving the terrors of a savage country -for nearly two years, found themselves reduced to a small space of dry -land, and in danger of being washed away at any moment. Ignorant of the -ways, and badly provided with the necessary appliances for procuring -game in a country so profusely endowed with this commodity, they were -still compelled to subsist on wild fruits and roots; even these could -not be procured but at the peril of ravenous jaguars, which, like -themselves, had been driven thither by the engulfing inundation. More -skilled in the art of swimming and navigating those waters, the vengeful -Indians watched stealthily every opportunity to pick off stragglers from -the camp; and thus many of those poor wretches were spared the horrors -of a lingering death by starvation, sickness, and despair. Yet, the -unconquerable spirit of their leader, far from yielding to the force of -circumstances, and wholly impressed with visions of a golden paradise, -only seemed to urge him on still farther in the unknown interior; for no -sooner was he released from his long confinement by the subsidence of -the waters, than Spira crossed over to the south side of the river, and -proceeded on his journey, through innumerable hostile tribes of Indians, -who annoyed him considerably on his march. During his wanderings over -those immeasurable wilds, Spira obtained from an Indian captive some -information respecting more prosperous and populated lands to the -westward, the inhabitants of which were clad in fine cotton fabrics, and -wore ornaments of gold, showing a higher grade of civilization than that -of the savages he had encountered. Although at first he lent a willing -ear to the story, and even sent a strong body of men to reconnoitre the -lofty mountain range beyond, the Adelantado desisted from his projected -conquest in that direction, owing to the rugged nature of the route, as -reported by his men, and the little faith he placed on such statements -from Indian informers. The fact is, the Spaniards had proved such -troublesome guests, that the aborigines, to get rid of them, and -perceiving their eagerness for gold, constantly allured them towards the -wealth of other countries, situated farther off. Had Spira, on this -occasion, followed the advice of his informant, instead of persisting, -as he did, in his southern exploration, he would, in a short time, have -found the promised land of his expectations--the rich and fertile -country of the Muiscas, in one word, for he was then only a few days’ -march from their own capital on the high table-land of Bogotá. His bad -luck led him instead to a region so exactly the reverse of this, that -his companions gave it the name of _Mal Pais_ (bad country), not only -on account of the roughness of the land, but also of its inhabitants, -with whom they had several desperate engagements, before they were -enabled to proceed. - -Without losing sight of the friendly cordillera which had guided their -steps thus far, the Spaniards arrived at the village of a less -pugnacious tribe of Indians, which they christened with the name of -_Nuestra Señora_, or Our Lady, in commemoration of the Feast of the -Assumption, which they, in spite of their wretched condition, celebrated -with great pomp and rejoicings, in 1537. It is the same where they -afterwards founded the city of San Juan de los Llanos.[57] Here the -Spaniards heard again of regions abounding in gold and silver, situated -farther on; and although they had become rather incredulous respecting -such reports, they believed, on this occasion, what the Indians told -them, in consequence of finding there some signs of a more advanced -state of civilization, such as a temple, consecrated to the sun, and a -convent of virgins similar to those which were afterwards found among -the Muiscas and Peruvians. Without stopping even to rest his troop, -Spira crossed the Ariari, perhaps higher up than Macatoa, and before its -junction with the Guaviare. He then penetrated, by force of arms, into -the country of the Guayupes and Canicamares, two powerful tribes, and -shortly afterwards he discovered the head waters of the Papamene, where -he stopped some days to rest his men, and to obtain guides among the -Indians to conduct him to the country of riches. The dwellers of -Papamene received Spira in a friendly manner, and established with his -soldiers a system of exchanges and communication most acceptable on both -sides; the strangers obtaining by these means the provisions they were -in need of, and the Indians those trinkets of foreign manufacture so -highly prized by them. But, tired at last of their troublesome guests, -the aborigines persuaded them that a little further on they would find -the country they were in quest of. To encourage them still more, five of -the natives volunteered to act as guides, pledging themselves to lead -them shortly to the heart of that happy country, from whence they would -return loaded with riches. Instead of this, the wily Indians conducted -them to a dismal labyrinth of swamps and quicksands, the abode of a -ferocious and warlike nation, dexterous in battle and in the management -of formidable lances of palm-wood, tipped with blades of human bone, -very sharp and pointed. When once in the heart of this horrid -wilderness, the guides disappeared one night, and left their friends to -shift for themselves. - -Not in the least disconcerted by the untoward contretemps, the stubborn -leader of the band, instead of retracing his steps, prepared at once to -make a thorough exploration of that region. To this end he detailed his -lieutenant, Esteban Martin--a well tried and competent individual--with -fifty infantry and twenty horsemen, to reconnoitre the position. Martin -soon discovered the difficulties of the undertaking, and the dangers to -which they all would be exposed if the Governor persisted in his -project. After an ineffectual reconnoisance of five days’ duration, when -men and horses were constantly in danger of being swallowed up by the -treacherous ground, he returned to the camp, and again endeavored to -dissuade the Governor from his foolhardy scheme; but Spira was deaf to -the timely advice of his lieutenant. Ordering him to leave behind the -horses, and to take the fifty men already allotted to the service, he -enjoined Martin to resume the reconnoisance forthwith, by a different -route. - -The result of the foray was just as the lieutenant had foreseen. The -Indians allowed them to penetrate unmolested into the interior of their -stronghold, and then cut them up in detail. Although the Spaniards -fought like lions on this occasion, very few of them were fortunate -enough to reach headquarters, to apprise the stubborn Governor of his -danger. It became now necessary to effect a retreat from that den of -horrors which the Spaniards stigmatized with the appropriate name of -_Los Choques_--the Onslaughts--in allusion to the repeated attacks which -the enemy made upon them while endeavoring to accomplish their escape. -Unfortunately for the invaders, as they were then very near the line of -the equator, where it rains almost incessantly, they had to contend also -against the inclemency of the weather, which brought on a multitude of -diseases very fatal to men and horses; for they had neither the means -nor the physical strength to counteract them. Thus many of these brave -fellows became a prey to the distemper, among them several -distinguished individuals, whose names are given by Oviedo in his -“Historia de la Conquista,” such as Francisco Murcia de Rondon, who had -acted as secretary to King Francis the First of France during his -captivity in Spain. - -The most difficult part of the undertaking remained yet to be -accomplished, namely, that of retracing their steps to the sea-coast -through a flooded and deserted country; for, with the previous -experience of the natives, the villages were abandoned at the approach -of the dreaded foreigners, and stripped of their provisions. So great -was the destitution among the followers of Spira, that, on one occasion, -a party of his men fell in with an infant, left forsaken by its mother -in the hurry of the moment after a surprise; and, without the least -compunction, they devoured it along with some edible roots found in the -hut. When Spira heard of it he would have made an example of the -cannibals on the spot; but considering that he was still in an enemy’s -country, and that he could not very well spare the men--four in -number--he commuted the sentence of death passed upon them to some -other, though quite severe punishment. They all, however, got their -deserts after a while; for, as the historiographer Oviedo tells us, -every one of them died in the most distressing agony--although of -various diseases--at the thought of the horrid crime they had committed. - -A whole year was spent in this disastrous retreat, which, more than any -other feat of arms, proved the mettle of the bold conquerors. The -remnants of what was a dashing phalanx--ninety men out of the four -hundred that five years before had started in search of wealth and -fame--reached Coro in February of 1539; and these, far from being -discouraged by past misfortunes, only inflamed the ardor of other -incautious adventurers to join them in a renewed search for El Dorado; -for we find Felipe de Urre and Pedro de Limpias, two of Spirals -followers, engaging in a similar expedition soon after the return of -this ill-fated conquistador, who did not long survive the hardships of -that fearful journey, for he died in Coro on the 12th of June, 1540. His -successor, as Governor of the colony, Bishop de las Bastidas, whose -mission as a prelate of the church should have been one of “peace on -earth, and good-will to men,” far from discountenancing these reckless -enterprises, became himself a most ardent votary of the “gilded king,” -to whom he prepared to pay his respects through his lieutenant, the -famous conquistador, Felipe de Urre, like Spira and Federmann, of German -nationality. The exchequer of the colony being rather short of funds at -the time, the Right Reverend sent an expedition under Pedro de Limpias, -to the lake of Maracaibo, for the purpose of obtaining its equivalent in -the shape of Indian captives, a species of merchandise which commanded a -ready sale among the traders on the coast of Tierra Firme. The -speculation succeeded so well that, by the month of June, 1541, the -Commander-in-chief was ready to start at the head of one hundred and -fifty men, well armed and equipped for a protracted campaign. Urre -appointed as his chief of staff the ubiquitous Pedro de Limpias, a brave -and crafty adventurer, long experienced in Indian forays, especially -that of the unfortunate Jorge de Spira, and afterwards under Federmann, -during his perilous journey over the icy Sierras of Cundinamarca. - -The only pass through the northern cordillera then known to the -colonists was that of Agua-Caliente, a little to the south of the -present site of Puerto Cabello, and the same that Spira and Federmann -sought some years before in their march through to the Llanos. This pass -being situated some fifty leagues east of Coro, and no roads existing at -that time, the little band of Felipe de Urre had to follow the -coast-line intervening between both places, with no small inconvenience -to men and beasts, from the burning sands and the quagmires they must -have encountered. - -The route being pretty well known already, Urre had no difficulty in -finding the pass; and then following the line of march of his -predecessors in their famous perambulations through the Llanos, he -reached La Fragua, or Nuestra Señora, in safety, stopping there for a -while until the return of the dry season, and to obtain further -information respecting the mysterious land he was in quest of. His -astonishment was great, however, when he heard that, a few days before, -Hernan Perez de Quesada, with a large force from Cundinamarca, had -passed through that place in quest of El Dorado. Fearing that the -Spaniard might get ahead of him in this coveted conquest, Urre left his -winter quarters sooner than he had calculated, and reached the country -of Papamene. From thence he might have gained easy access to the -populous and well-stocked country of the Guayupes, but for his obstinacy -in keeping the track of Quesada in his march southward. Although warned -in time of the dangers of this route by a friendly Indian, who offered -to conduct him instead to the rich domain of Macatoa in a south-easterly -direction, the stubborn German still persisted in his purpose, with no -better luck than his rival; who barely escaped with his life, and the -loss of the greater portion of his followers, to the high table-land of -Papayan, after two years of wanderings and vicissitudes through the most -dismal solitudes and tangled forests. - -Compelled by the approaching rainy season to seek also the proximity of -the mountains, and with most of his force in a deplorable condition, -Urre hastened to establish his winter quarters on a spur of the Andes, -which stretches far into the low lands, and was named by them the Punta, -or Cape of Los Pardaos. But here an unexpected misfortune awaited them; -for the district being scarcely inhabited, they could find no provisions -during their long wintry captivity; subsisting, like Spira and his men, -on reptiles and the like. The greatest luxury they enjoyed at times was -a ball of corn-meal, well seasoned with a species of red-ants, and -roasted on the embers. The game was easily secured by placing the moist -paste near the mouth of the ant-nest, which soon attracted the insects, -and when well covered with them, they were kneaded together, the same -operation being repeated several times, until the roll contained more -insects than paste. Reduced, in consequence, to the condition of walking -skeletons, and most of them covered with the most loathsome tumors and -ulcers, the forlorn wanderers could hardly extricate themselves from -that theatre of their misfortunes, when the subsidence of the waters -allowed them to seek their old quarters at La Fragua, to recruit before -engaging in new adventures. - -Although the force had dwindled down to less than half the number of -those originally brought from Coro, Felipe de Urre determined to resume -his explorations with only forty men, which was all that could be got -together, after leaving a sufficient number at La Fragua for the -protection of the sick. Remembering the advice given him by the Indian -guide of Papamene to look for the country of the Omeguas in a different -direction from that taken by Quesada in his perilous pilgrimage, Urre -set out in quest of Macatoa--situated on the right bank of the great -river Guaviare--as the most convenient centre for future operations -against the warlike Omeguas. - -Whether it was indifference on the part of the Indians, or a -preconcerted plan to bring their common enemy to speedy destruction at -the hands of the Omeguas, the most powerful nation among them, the fact -is, that the invaders found no difficulty in penetrating as far as -Macatoa by the help of Indian guides and assistance. In like manner the -lord of Macatoa, on being informed of the purpose which had brought the -strangers thus far, received them with every demonstration of -friendship, giving up to them the most commodious residences in the -town, and assisting them with provisions and attendants in abundance. -The same courtesies were extended to them at their departure, although -the Cacique warned his guests of the perils they would encounter if they -persisted in attacking the Omeguas with so small a force. In order to -expedite their march, the Cacique sent messengers ahead to apprise the -lord of the next tribe, his ally--situated some nine days’ journey from -Macatoa--of their coming, and recommending them strongly to his care and -attention. On arriving there, so captivated were the inhabitants with -the novelty of the strangers and their attire, especially with the -horses, that they became even more obsequious than the people of -Macatoa, and, like these, warned the leader of that squad of adventurers -not to engage in so desperate a combat with the Omeguas, representing -likewise to Felipe de Urre that these people possessed also domestic -quadrupeds of large size--probably llamas--which they could use like -horses if they chose. In addition to these facts the Spaniards were -reassured of the immense wealth in gold and silver everywhere to be -found among that populous nation, which news so excited their avarice -that, disregarding all the chances against the success of their -enterprise, they hastened towards the goal of their expectations. - -Perceiving that his arguments were of no avail with the Castilians, to -deter them from their rash undertaking, the friendly Cacique offered to -escort them with a few of his subjects, on the road to the nation of -the Omeguas, reaching the first of their outposts in five days. It is -related by the chronicles that, having ascended some high ground near -by, the Spaniards descried a city of such extraordinary extent and -magnificence, that, although not very far off, they could not see the -end of it. The streets were straight, and the buildings quite near each -other; among the latter was to be seen a superb edifice of vast -proportions, which the friendly Cacique told them was the palace of the -lord of that city, whose name was Cuarica; and that it served the double -function of habitation to his lordship, and temple to many gods, or -idols, of solid gold. - -Here the Cacique, having accomplished his errand, proposed to return to -his own dominions; but before taking leave of his _protegés_, he advised -Urre, as a last token of his regard, to capture, at all hazards, the men -stationed at the post, before they should carry the alarm into the city. -The suggestion was fully appreciated by the Commander and some officers -near him, all of whom being on horseback at that moment, immediately -gave chase to the fugitive Omeguas. One of these, finding himself hard -pressed by Urre, who rode ahead of his companions, turned round -suddenly, and struck the Commander so powerful a blow with his lance, -that it pierced right through his cuirass, penetrating deeply into the -ribs of the right side. Disconcerted with the blow, and the pain -inflicted by the wound, Urre abandoned the pursuit, and turned back to -rejoin his companions, while the fugitives made their escape into the -city. - -Greatly perplexed with this unexpected mishap to their Commander, and -fearing that, alarmed with the report carried by the advanced guard into -the city, the Omeguas would immediately sally forth to encounter them in -great numbers, the Spaniards, by the advice of their friendly Indian -guide, who still remained by them, placing their wounded leader in a -hammock, resolved to retire at once from the neighborhood. Their -apprehensions were soon realized; for, in a little while, they heard the -confused yells of the multitude, amidst the ominous booming of big drums -and other war instruments, preparing for the attack. Happily for the -retreating Spaniards, night came on soon after, which enabled them to -place a good distance between themselves and the advancing columns of -the enemy. - -On arriving at the village of their good friend the Cacique, the first -care was to attend to the chieftain’s wound, as well as circumstances -would permit; but hardly were they established here, when the Cacique, -apprised by some of his people who were working on their fields, -informed Urre of the approach of the Omeguas. Unable to place himself at -the head of his soldiers, the Commander ordered his lieutenant, Pedro de -Limpias, to give them battle at once, regardless of their numbers, -which, according to Oviedo, amounted to not less than fifteen thousand. -The ground being favorable for the use of cavalry, Limpias headed the -charge with the few horses he had at his command; and although the -Omeguas resisted for some time the onset of those animals,--seen by them -for the first time,--they at last commenced to give way; and the -infantry soldiers coming up at this moment under the orders of another -brave captain, one Bartolomé Belzar, completed the rout of the clamorous -hosts of Omeguas, who have never since, to this day, been heard of; for -Urre lost his life afterwards at the hands of a tyrant who ruled the -colony in his absence, as we shall see presently; and the country -remains still a perfect _terra incognita_, although several attempts -were made subsequently from Perú and Quito to find that mysterious land. - -Convinced that, with the small force at his disposal, it would have been -more than rashness to undertake the conquest of a city which, on so -short a notice, could raise fifteen thousand warriors, Urre -determined--so soon as his wound permitted him to mount his horse--to -return to Macatoa, and hence to La Fragua, which he reached after an -absence of three months. Great was the joy in the invalid camp of the -Spaniards, on the return of their friends; but greater still, at the -good tidings they brought of having found the long-sought-for realms of -El Dorado; for they had not the least doubt in their minds that such was -the country of the powerful nation whose great city they had looked on -with anxious eyes, but dared not enter. - -It is a singular coincidence that, while Gonzalo Pizarro was engaged -about this time in his ill-fated exploration of the country of Canelos, -the land of cinnamon-trees, he heard from the Indians of Muchifaro, that -not far from there--somewhat in the direction of Félipe de Urre’s -discoveries--a great Sire, most opulent in subjects and riches, and -whose name was Omeguas, or Omaguas, had his realms; Pizarro sent in -consequence his kinsman and confidential friend, Francisco Orellana, to -explore that region, with fifty men, who were launched upon the swift -current of the river Napo in a frail barge, constructed in the -wilderness, of very rude materials. But Orellana, probably disgusted by -this time with the sufferings already endured, instead of searching for -the “rich and fruitful land abounding with gold,” abandoned himself and -his companions to the current of the stream--one of the greatest -tributaries of the mighty Amazon--and once on the bosom of the Father of -Waters, sought the broad Atlantic, which he reached in safety after a -run of two thousand miles. “But it is marvellous,” Prescott says, “that -he should escape shipwreck in the perilous and unknown navigation of -that river. Many times his vessel was nearly dashed to pieces, on its -rocks and in its furious rapids; and he was in still greater peril from -the warlike tribes on its borders, who fell on his little troop whenever -he attempted to land, and followed in his wake for miles in their -canoes.”[58] - -The sufferings endured by Pizarro and his men on this occasion, remind -us of the miserable condition of Jorge de Spira and Felipe de Urre on -their retrograde march to Coro. “Every scrap of provisions had been long -since consumed. The last of their horses had been devoured. To appease -the gnawings of hunger, they were fain to eat the leather of their -saddles and belts. The woods supplied them with scanty sustenance, and -they greedily fed upon toads, serpents, and such other reptiles as they -occasionally found.” - -But to return to the way-worn company under the German leader, Urre, -whom we left in rather a bad plight at their haven of La Fragua. After a -deliberate consultation among the principal captains of the band, it was -unanimously resolved to send to Coro for reinforcements, and Pedro de -Limpias having offered his services to that effect, he was despatched -forthwith by Felipe de Urre with a good portion of his force as an -escort; but suspecting, soon after, some evil intentions on the part of -his lieutenant, who was always at loggerheads with the German element of -the troop, the Commander followed him soon after, with the rest of the -men. - -Subsequent events proved that the apprehensions of the gallant German -were not unfounded; for on his approach to the settlements of the -colony, he learned that the government thereof had passed into the hands -of an usurper, a crafty lawyer, named Carvajal, Relator or Recorder of -the Audiencia of San Domingo, who, by forgery of despatches from that -body, had managed to appoint himself Governor, in the absence of the -lawful incumbent of the post. Felipe de Urre was, moreover, warned by -his friends of the machinations of his lieutenant, who, instead of -demanding the requisite contingent of men and horses to prosecute his -conquests, was plotting his destruction, and that of his countrymen, -with the wily Carvajal. This individual, whom all accounts represent as -an unscrupulous tyrant and most accomplished hypocrite, succeeded, -nevertheless, in disarming Urre and his adherents, all of whom he had -the effrontery to put to death, on some specious pretext concocted -between himself and the spiteful Pedro de Limpias. - -Thus fell one of the bravest pioneers of South America, and a most -disinterested champion of its early colonization. “None of the -chieftains,” says Oviedo, “of the many that warred in the Indies, -stained his sword with blood less than he; for, having overrun more -provinces than any one else in his protracted journey of four years’ -duration, his moderation was impelled to war only when he found no other -means to obtain peace.” - -But the tyrannical rule of his murderer, Carvajal, was only of short -duration; for about this time the Emperor Charles the Fifth, cognizant -of the excesses practised against the unhappy aborigines--through the -representations of their zealous defender, the celebrated Father Las -Casas--and the deplorable state into which the country had fallen under -the bad management of the German company, annulled the charter granted -to the latter, and sent an eminent jurist, the Licentiate de Tolosa, -with full powers to regulate the affairs of the colony as Governor and -Captain-General thereof. On his arrival at Coro, Tolosa was soon posted -in regard to the conduct of the usurper Carvajal, who, for greater -security, kept himself at a distance from the sea-coast, in the new -settlement of Tocuyo, far away in the interior. The Captain-General -managed things so well, however, that he contrived to pounce upon the -wretch, one night, when least expected; and having tried, and found him -guilty of the crimes imputed to him, he sentenced him to be -hanged--after being dragged on a hide through the streets of the -town--from the same tree, a splendid Ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, in the -centre of the plaza, which the tyrant had polluted with his numberless -atrocities, making use of it as a gibbet during his executions. - - * * * * * - -We shall not follow the other conquerors in their restless search for El -Dorado, now in one direction, now in an opposite quarter, until it was -brought within the embrace of the mighty Orinoco, where Raleigh’s last -adventure was terminated by his unsuccessful attack upon Santo Tomé de -la Angostura, the present Ciudad Bolívar, where we must resume our -journey. - -Although the river has been well known for the last three hundred years, -the country within its boundaries, properly called Guayana, has remained -comparatively ignored by the outside world until these latter years. A -few settlements along its southern shore, and these principally -controlled by priestly exclusiveness, was all the advancement that had -been made there up to the destruction of the missions by the war of -independence. Since then the country had nearly returned to its primeval -state of savageness, when the “gold fever,” that most potent excitant -of all distempers, aroused the lethargic apathy of the inhabitants, and -now bids fair to communicate itself to people of keener sensibilities. - -It is possible that the missionary fathers, who had for a long time -entire control of the scattered villages south of the Orinoco, were well -informed respecting the existence of the gold fields which are being -brought to light just now; but the _frailes_--all of them European -Spaniards, and consequently strong supporters of their cause--were -wantonly massacred by some staff officers of General Bolívar, and not -one of them left to reveal the source of their reputed wealth. And, what -is most singular, the learned Humboldt, who explored the Orinoco in -nearly its whole course, devotes an entire chapter to prove the -non-existence of gold in Guayana, especially on the spot where it has -been found in the greatest abundance; although, with his characteristic -reserve and far-seeing perspicuity, he concludes with these words: - - * * * * * - -“Though the celebrity of the riches of Spanish Guiana is chiefly -assignable to the geographical situation of the country and the errors -of the old maps, we are not justified in denying the existence of any -auriferous land in the tract of country of 82,000 square leagues -(250,000 square miles), which stretches between the Orinoco and the -Amazon, on the east of the Andes of Quito and New Granada. What I saw of -this country between the second and eighth degrees of longitude, is -entirely composed of granite, and of a gneiss passing into micaceous and -talcous slate. These rocks appear naked in the lofty mountains of -Parima, as well as in the plains of the Atabapo and the Casiquiare. -Granite predominates there over the other rocks: and though in both -continents, the _granite of ancient formation_ is pretty generally -destitute of gold ore, we cannot hence conclude that the granite of -Parima contains no vein, no stratum of auriferous quartz.” - - * * * * * - -The error of the great traveller in this respect is assignable to the -fact that he never left the bed of the Orinoco, which is bordered, as he -states, by ledges of primitive formation. The auriferous deposits of the -State of Guayana are found in a range of mountains, having a general -course north-east and south-west, about a hundred miles south of the -Orinoco river, precisely where Sir Walter Raleigh placed his _El Dorado -de la Parime_.[59] - -Through the courtesy of J. B. Austin, Esq., of Philadelphia--a gentleman -of refined cultivation and thorough American energy, who has lately -returned from that region--I am enabled to place before my readers the -subjoined letter, containing an accurate statement concerning the -so-called “fabulous” realms of El Dorado,[A] as they now are: - -“The streams having their sources in these mountains, generally flow -into the Cuyuni and Masaruny rivers, tributaries of the Esequibo, though -some run into the Caroni, one of the great tributaries of the Orinoco. -As these gold deposits are approached, the geological features of the -country undergo an important change. Quartz appears in immense -quantities, running in broad veins through the savannas, or thickly -distributed over great extents. This is often auriferous to a slight -degree. South of the Yuruary river the system of plains is left behind, -and here are ranges of hills and mountains covered with dense, gloomy, -tropical forests, and intersected with numerous streams and rivers. The -principal formation, or ‘country rock,’ is highly metamorphosed talcose -and chloritic slates, broken often by upheavals of granite, and -traversed by veins and ledges of quartz, from thirty inches to ninety -feet wide. All this is auriferous, free gold in quartz, and of a -richness incredible, until seen and explored. The earth, rocks, and beds -of streams all yield gold in the greatest profusion, and over ten -thousand men are now at work there without any scientific direction, and -with the poorest appliances for labor, but all doing well, many -accumulating large sums of money. Every part of their labor is by hand, -and their tools and implements of the most ordinary character. - -“Here is timber sufficient for ages of consumption; abundant supplies of -water; a quiet, orderly people; good government, and deposits of gold -apparently inexhaustible. It seems strange that such a country has -remained so far hidden for such a length of time. It was known to the -aborigines, for we find their old pits, implements and pottery. Even as -late as the time of Sir Walter Raleigh it was known to the Indians, and -that gallant leader made four attempts to penetrate its fastnesses, but -each time was driven back by the Spaniards. Evidently it was known to -the Capuchin fathers, who colonized and christianized that section of -South America; but by them it was held as a great secret, and upon their -overthrow and massacre, in 1815, the trace was lost, until accidentally -discovered again a few years since. - -“It is a remarkable fact also, that the State of Guayana, since the date -of its independence from Spain in 1812, has remained free from those -internal dissensions and strifes so common in South American states. Its -inhabitants are orderly, honest, and industrious; their pursuits -pastoral and agricultural, and its rulers men of great political ability -and enlarged liberal views. - -“The climate of the State is salubrious, and the communications with the -mines good; wagons can pass from the river to them in five days, and -steamers run every fortnight from the river to England and France in -eighteen days, and monthly to New York in twelve days. - -“In a scientific point of view the country is most interesting. It is -emphatically an unexplored field; its geology, natural history, and -botany, almost unknown; pictorially it is very beautiful; protection to -life and property absolutely safe; and though somewhat rough in its -accommodations, still most interesting to the traveller. - -“With such unbounded sources of wealth within its borders, so accessible -to the great centres of commerce, and under such an enlightened -administration of public affairs, it requires no gift of prophecy to -foresee the rapidity of development now opening for the great and -prosperous State of Guayana. - -“The scenery throughout the canton of Upata partakes more of the -pastoral character, its most marked feature being quiet beauty. There -are places, such as the site of the mission of Santa Maria, the approach -to the Yuruary from Guacipati, the great palm forests near Palmar, and -the mountain range of Nuri, which are grand, even sublime; but generally -the scene is more park-like, the mountain forms quiet, the savannas -sweeping off in long swells, with trees scattered over them singly, in -groups, or groves, seemingly as if planted by man for pictorial effect. -The valleys are fertile and luxuriant--all the productions of the -tropical zone maturing almost without labor; the savannas furnish rich -pasturage for tens of thousands of cattle--the forests are prolific in -woods of the greatest value--the streams rapid, and their water good. - -“The auriferous deposits beyond the Yuruary have been traced from that -river through to the Ventuari, about four hundred miles; not, for all -this distance, by continuous exploration, but in detached efforts, -penetrating from the Orinoco at various points, and always striking the -same general system of veins.” - -As I understand that Mr. Austin is engaged in writing a book on this -important subject, I abstain from further comments in the matter, -convinced as I am, that no one is better calculated than himself to -enlighten his countrymen respecting a region eminently adapted to the -enterprising energy of the Anglo-Saxon race. - - “Son árboles y piedras un tesoro, - Los montes plata y las arenas oro.” - - BARALT, _Oda á Colon_. - - In its trees and its stones are treasures untold, - Its mountains are silver, its sands are of gold. - - - NOTE.--According to the official returns of the State of Guayana - which I have before me, the exports of gold through the - Custom-house of Ciudad Bolívar for the months of April and May, - 1867, amounted to $158,815.00. - - By Steamer Pioneer, 1194 ounces, or $28.568.00 - “ “ “ 1800 “ “ 43.200.00 - “ Bark Rosedale 3627 “ “ 87.032.00 - ____ ___________ - 6620 $158.800.00 - - This much without taking into consideration the vast amounts which - are carried away by private individuals, without passing through - the Custom-house to avoid the export duty levied on gold by the - Venezuelian government. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - -THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO. - - -I fear that the description of the land of El Dorado has already been -extended beyond the limits assigned to that chapter; otherwise we might -continue our voyage down the noble river, and visit other points of -attraction along its course; such as the falls of the Caroni, three -miles above its confluence with the Orinoco. On its margins grows the -beautiful _Bomplandia trifoliata_, which yields the Angostura-bark of -the pharmacopœa--next to quinine, the most efficacious antidote -against the miasmas of these regions. It also furnishes the principal -ingredient in the composition of the fine bitters manufactured there -under that name. By descending the river still farther, we might enter -any of the thousand channels into which the Orinoco divides itself -before it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, and there take a look at the -curious race of men--the Waraun Indians--living on trees like apes, for -want of dry land upon which to stretch their limbs; or in rude huts -built on piles driven in the soft mud of the Great Delta. But as the -time draws near for our departure from the Llanos, and the rivers -commence to overflow the plains, we will reascend the Orinoco and rejoin -our friends, who await us impatiently on the banks of the Apure; or else -we might find ourselves, like Spira and his companions, cut off -from the rest of civilization. We shall also miss the curious -harvest--_cosecha_--of turtles’ eggs, which is gathered about this time -upon the sand-islands of the Orinoco, just above the mouth of the Apure. -Here the great turtles called _arraus_ by the Indians, and _tortugas_ by -the whites, assemble in vast multitudes during the dry season to perfect -the incubation of their eggs. This they accomplish by digging pits in -the sand with their hind feet, in which they deposit the eggs, covering -them afterwards very carefully, and entrusting the rest of the operation -to the heat of the sun. The people from far and near this _el dorado_ of -eggs and turtles, then hasten to these sand-banks, and provision -themselves for “a rainy day” at the expense of the lawful tenants of -those islands. - -Other travellers having already studied the habits of these amphibia in -their native habitat, we may avail ourselves of their experience in -forming some idea of their prodigious increase, in spite of their -sluggish habits. I may mention, among others, Humboldt and Bates, who -have given to the world very graphic accounts of this singular -“harvest,” the former on the Orinoco,[60] and the latter on the Amazon -river.[61] But the most interesting account within my knowledge is that -of Father Gumilla, who, having spent many years among these wilds, is -entitled to special attention on the part of the lovers of nature. As -his book is very rare and curious nowadays, I will, for the benefit of -my readers, give here a translation of the chapter devoted to the -subject: - - “OF THE EXTRAORDINARY HARVEST (_Cosecha_) OF TURTLES GATHERED BY - THE INDIANS OF THE ORINOCO; THEIR EGGS, AND OF THE PECULIAR OIL - OBTAINED FROM THEM.” - -“So great is the number of turtles in the Orinoco river, that whatever I -may say on this subject will fall far short of the actual truth; and I -even fear that many, in reading my authentic account of what I myself -have repeatedly seen, experienced, and touched with my own hands, will -accuse me of exaggeration; but it is a fact that it would be as -difficult to count the sands of the extensive banks of the Orinoco, as -to compute the immense number of turtles which it harbors on its borders -and in the depths of its currents. - -“Some idea may be formed of the enormous consumption of these creatures, -when we say that all the tribes and people of adjacent countries, and -even from those farther off, frequent the Orinoco with their families to -secure what I termed the harvest of turtles; for they not only maintain -themselves therewith during the months that it lasts, but also carry -away a large supply of turtle-meat, dried by fire, and a still greater -number of baskets of eggs, dried also by the same means. But what -principally attracts the people of these tribes is the oil which they -gather from the eggs of said turtles, in large quantities, to anoint -themselves throughout the year twice every day, and to sell to the more -remote tribes who cannot, or through fear dare not, go down the river -Orinoco. - -“As soon as the river begins to fall and to display its first sandbanks -in the month of February, the turtles commence to show themselves, in -order to deposit their eggs in the sand; those which appear first are -the small turtles called _terecayas_, weighing scarce an _arroba_ of -twenty-five pounds; these lay twenty-two and sometimes twenty-four eggs, -like hen’s eggs, but without the shell, instead of which they are -covered by two membranes, one soft and the other thicker. With these -_terecayas_ other turtle also appear, who, in the previous year, found -no sand in which to deposit their eggs, or were prevented from so doing -by the great number assembled there. These large turtles, which, when -three years old, weigh two _arrobas_--as I have proved by the -scales--deposit sixty-two, and ordinarily, sixty-four round eggs each, -larger than those of the _terecayas_, with stronger membrane, and with -which the Indians play ball on shore, or egg each other in sport. In -each nest of eggs there is one larger than the rest, from which the male -is hatched; all the others are females. About this time the Indians, of -various tribes, commence to arrive from all points of the adjacent -countries: some of them build their straw huts; others content -themselves by driving poles in the sand, from which to swing their -hammocks. A multitude of tigers also appear to turn up the turtles, -which they devour in spite of their strong cuirass; a circumstance which -by no means adds to the pleasure and satisfaction that the Indians -derive from their excursion to the Orinoco, since, in spite of all their -care, scarcely a year passes in which the tigers do not devour some of -the poor Indians, who have no other mode of keeping them off at night -than by fires, which, so long as they burn, keep the beasts at a -distance. - -“Fearing the heat of the sun--which often kills them on the -sand-banks--the turtles at first come out only at nightfall to lay their -eggs; but, as the season advances, the gathering is so great, that the -multitudes already out prevent the passage of still greater numbers, -which, with heads above water, are waiting a chance to pass on; and so -soon as an opportunity presents itself, they hasten to lay all their -eggs at once--the burthen of which they cannot support without great -inconvenience,--regardless of the sun and heat, which often costs many -of them their lives. - -“I have noticed three curious facts with reference to these -turtle-nests: the first is, that after opening with the utmost care the -holes in which these animals deposit their eggs, they take particular -pains to close them again, so as not to leave a trace by which the nest -may be found. For this purpose they leave the ground perfectly even with -the rest of the sand-bank; and in order that the marks of their feet may -not lead to their discovery, they pass over and around the nest several -times in succession before they quit the ground. All their precautions -are in vain, however, for wherever there are eggs, the sand remains -quite loose, and gives way under foot; and by these means the eggs are -found in the early part of the season; but later, in the height of the -harvest, there is no need of looking for these signs; for, in the same -sands in which the first turtles laid, the second, third, and scores of -others also lay their eggs in such prodigious quantities, that wherever -the Indians may dig, they find them in heaps, the animals themselves -scattering them all over the ground while excavating their own nests. - -“The second curious fact that I have observed, by driving a pole near to -a newly-laid nest, is, that in three days’ time, the incubation of the -eggs is not only perfected, but the young turtles have broken through -the shell; so great is the power of the sun and the intensity of the -heat absorbed by the sand. - -“The third point noted by me is, that the young turtles, on coming out -of the shell--at which time they are about the size of a half -dollar,--do not leave the nest by daylight, nature having taught them -that the heat of the sun will kill them, and the birds of prey will -devour them. They come forth, therefore, in the silence and cool of the -night; and what has most excited my admiration is, that although the -hole from which they emerge may be half a mile or more from the river, -they never mistake the road, but go in a direct line to the water. This -pleased me so much, that I have repeatedly taken the turtles a great -distance from the river, carrying them covered, and turning them around -over and over again on the ground, in order to make them lose their -course; but whenever they found themselves free, they made straight for -the water, and I following them, admiring the wonderful goodness of the -Creator, who thus endows each of his creatures with powers to find its -natural element. What a lesson to us, who, in spite of the hope of -eternal reward and the danger of everlasting punishment, scarce succeed -in taking the right path for that ultimate goal for which the goodness -and mercy of God created us! - -“About this time the Indians, both men and women, rise very early, and -the former turn over as many turtles as they please, leaving them on -their backs in such a way as to render them incapable of resuming their -natural position; for although they strive with their paddles to right -themselves, their back is so high that they cannot touch the ground in -order to obtain a foothold. They are then carried by their captors to -the ranches, where they are made fast by leaving them on their backs, as -aforesaid. Meanwhile the women and children occupy themselves in filling -and carrying baskets of eggs and little turtles to the ranches, making -large heaps of the former, and keeping the latter in the baskets to -prevent their escape into the river, which they always do whenever they -can. The men also dig holes in the sand down to the level of the river, -which are quickly filled by the infiltration of the water, and place -therein large numbers of baby-turtles, to be eaten as wanted; each of -which makes a delicious mouthful, free from bones, the very shells being -soft and tasty. The number of delicate young turtles eaten daily by the -innumerable families congregated there is incalculable. But the quantity -of eggs consumed is even greater, both as food and for the extraction of -oil; so great, indeed, that notwithstanding the size of the Orinoco -river, it is the opinion of the experts of that country that, were it -not for this extraordinary consumption of turtles and their eggs, the -increase of these animals in the river would be such as to render it -unnavigable; for boats would find it impossible to make way through the -immense number of turtles which would appear were all these eggs to be -hatched; in which opinion I participate also. In the same way, it is -said that on the fishing-banks of Newfoundland, frequented by so many -vessels, the shoals of codfish are so immense that the passage of -vessels is seriously embarrassed and delayed. It is also asserted that -each fisherman can catch as many as four hundred codfish per day. - -“Let us now see how the oil is extracted, which, as I have already said, -is the chief attraction which brings so many people to the Orinoco. -After washing the canoes which have brought them there, they draw them -on the beach, and pour several pailsfull of water into them: they then -wash the eggs in baskets, until not a grain of sand remains adhering to -them, and when perfectly clean, they are emptied into the canoes and -trod upon by children in the same way as grapes are mashed in -wine-making. Once full, the canoes are left exposed to the sun’s rays, -and in due time a fine and limpid liquid rises to the surface, which is -the oleaginous portion of the eggs; so abundant is this, that I have -been surprised to see a frying-pan placed dry on the fire, and after -being heated, well beaten eggs poured therein, which, on touching the -hot pan, gave forth sufficient oil to fry the omelet, with a certainty -that it never sticks to the pan. - -“Whilst the heat of the sun is extracting this fine oil, the Indian -women place large pots over the fire, and the men with fine shells, very -suitable for the purpose, remove the oil from the surface of the mixture -in the canoes, and carry it to the pots, where the heat of the fire -boils and purifies it. If, during the operation of transferring the oil -any of the beaten eggs are taken along, they remain fixed in the bottom -of the pots. The oil, when purified, is put in suitable jars, and is -much finer and clearer than that of olives, as I have proven to many -Europeans, who could hardly believe it, in the following manner. I -filled half a glass with olive-oil; I then poured in a like quantity of -oil from the eggs of turtles; when, lo! they commenced to change -positions from top to bottom, first one and then the other, gradually -mixing together in the middle until they finally commingled, losing -their natural color and assuming an albuginous appearance like watered -milk; the mixture being left quiet for half an hour or more, the egg-oil -commenced to rise to the surface, and in a short time remained on top of -the olive-oil, just as the latter floats on the surface of water, both -resuming their natural color. But to return to our narrative. - -“At the dinner hour--although they are all the while eating eggs and -young turtles, just for the fun of it--a single animal will provide -three large and distinct dishes, ample for the largest family; a turtle, -split on both sides, furnishing the following portions, viz.: head and -neck, the two hind legs, and the pectoral paddles, which require a -good-sized pot to hold them. Before placing them in it, some large lumps -of fat are removed, yellow as the yolk of an egg; and this is another -source of gain, which the Indians take home; and as the turtle which -gives the least, yields two pounds of this fat, the profit is -considerable. The pot being placed on the fire, the husband takes the -shell which forms the turtle’s back, and the wife the breast-plate; and -after carefully chopping together the meat, fat, and great quantity of -eggs which still adhere to the shell, the latter serve them as pots -also, without the slightest danger of burning. Before the mess is quite -cooked, they put the shells on the fireplaces, and make their first -dish, the _gigote_, on the breast-plate, which is very delicious and -tender; and even the breast-plate itself is sometimes eaten, as it -becomes impregnated with the fat, and is quite palatable. The second -dish is made from the hash prepared on the shell taken from the turtle’s -back. This is quite a treat, and is called _garapacho_, I do not know -why. Finally, the third dish is the _olla_, or bouilli, which ends the -meal, and is washed down with plenty of _chicha_,[62] which they take -good care to provide themselves with in sufficient quantity for the -whole season. - -“One would scarcely believe how fat the children, and in fact the whole -pack of them, grow during the season; but no wonder, for as the good -Father Manuel Roman, the Superior of our Orinoco missions, has often -assured me, although born in Olmedo, and grown in Valladolid and -Salamanca, he did not miss the fine mutton of those places so long as he -could depend upon the turtles of the Orinoco. Other Spanish priests of -the same missions expressed themselves in like terms. - -“The gain and benefit derived from these turtles by the Indians does not -stop here; for, besides the immense number of eggs which they consume, -both as food and in the preparation of the oil, they also carry away -great quantities of them, dried like figs in the sun; or by the heat of -slumbering fires made underneath horizontal trellises raised for the -purpose. The amount of eggs thus purloined can easily be imagined from -the fact, that these people will readily give in exchange for a knife -four basketfuls of them, each of which contains at least one thousand -eggs. They also carry away as many turtles as they can conveniently stow -in the canoes, without danger of sinking, tying them securely therein to -prevent their escape. - -“Of this species of turtle, what most excited my surprise was the -immense number of eggs which each of them has within itself; for, -besides the roe ready to be laid this year, farther in they have the one -for the next season, of nearly the same size as the former, but -destitute of that covering or white membrane which envelops the eggs; -then follow those for the third year, about the size of musket-balls; -for the fourth year, of the calibre for a fowling-piece; for the fifth -year, they are no bigger than buckshot; and at this rate they decrease -until they present a confused mass resembling turnip and mustard-seed; -and God only knows for how many years those creatures are endowed with -similar receptacles of life in embryo.” - - * * * * * - -This much was observed and related concerning the turtles of Orinoco by -the reverend missionary father in the early part of the seventeenth -century: let us now hear what the great philosopher of modern times says -in regard to these humble creatures; for he, too, spent several days -among the children of nature during the “harvest” of eggs and turtles -provided for them by their beneficent mother. - - * * * * * - -“I acquired some general statistical notions on the spot, by consulting -the missionary of Urvana, his lieutenant, and the traders of Angostura. -The shore of Urvana furnishes one thousand botijas, or jars of oil -annually. The price of each jar at Angostura varies from two piastres to -two and a half. We may admit that the total produce of the three shores, -where the _cosecha_, or gathering of eggs, is annually made, is five -thousand botijas. Now, as two hundred eggs yield oil enough to fill a -bottle (limeta), it requires five thousand eggs for a jar or botija of -oil. Estimating at one hundred, or one hundred and sixteen, the number -of eggs that one tortoise produces, and reckoning that one-third of -these is broken at the time of laying, particularly by the ‘mad -tortoises,’ we may presume that, to obtain annually five thousand jars -of oil, three hundred and thirty thousand _arrau_ tortoises, the weight -of which amounts to one hundred and sixty-five thousand quintals, must -lay thirty-three millions of eggs on the three shores where this harvest -is gathered. The results of these calculations are much below the truth. -Many tortoises lay only sixty or seventy eggs; and a great number of -these animals are devoured by jaguars at the moment they emerge from the -water. The Indians bring away a great number of eggs, to eat them dried -in the sun; and they break a considerable number through carelessness -during the gathering. The number of eggs that are hatched before the -people can dig them up is so prodigious, that near the encampment of -Urvana I saw the whole shore of the Orinoco swarming with little -tortoises an inch in diameter, escaping with difficulty from the pursuit -of the Indian children. If to these considerations be added, that all -the _arraus_ do not assemble on the three shores of the encampment; and -that there are many which lay their eggs in solitude, and some weeks -later, between the mouth of the Orinoco and the confluence of the Apure; -we must admit that the number of turtles which annually deposit their -eggs on the banks of the Lower Orinoco, is near a million. This number -is very great for so large an animal. In general large animals multiply -less considerably than the smaller ones.”[63] - -[Illustration: Arrow used in Turtle Shooting.] - -So extraordinary do these things appear to those not conversant with the -wonders of South America, that, to strengthen my statements, I am often -compelled to quote from more familiar writers on this subject, for fear -of being accused of exaggeration, as has already happened with reference -to one simple fact of every-day occurrence among Indian hunters. I -allude to the mode of shooting turtles and crocodiles with arrows of a -peculiar construction, referred to at page 109, and which appeared for -the first time in previous editions of my _Wild Scenes in South -America_. The _London Saturday Review_ of July 11th, 1863, commenting -upon this--to others than the practised eye of an Indian--most -extraordinary feat of skill, appeals to one of the best mathematicians -in the kingdom to learn if such a thing can be done at all; although in -other respects the remarks of the reviewer are highly flattering to the -book. I will endeavor to show, on this occasion, that nothing is easier -when you know how to do it, in support of which I could do no better -than appeal also to the testimony of English authorities. Both Wallace -and Bates mention the fact in their respective books of travel on the -Amazon and Rio Negro; and the latter accompanies his remarks with an -accurate representation of the arrow used for that purpose, which I -reproduce on the previous page, with the following paragraph alluding to -the mode of using it: - - * * * * * - -“Cardozo and I spent an hour paddling about. I was astonished at the -skill which the Indians display in shooting turtles. They did not wait -for their coming to the surface to breathe, but watched for the slight -movements in the water, which revealed their presence underneath. These -little tracks on the water are called the Siriri; the instant one was -perceived, an arrow flew from the bow of the nearest man, and never -failed to pierce the shell of the submerged animal. When the turtle was -very distant, of course the aim had to be taken at a considerable -elevation, but the marksmen preferred a longish range, because the arrow -then fell _perpendicularly_ on the shell, and entered it more -deeply.”[64] - - * * * * * - -The writer goes on then to describe the arrow, which corresponds in -every particular with my own description of it at page 109. _En -passant_, I will remark here that both books containing it came out in -London about the same time; and I would recommend to lovers of travel -and adventure the perusal of Mr. Bates’ interesting chapter on the -harvest of turtles’ eggs among the sand-islands of the mighty Amazon, as -well as Humboldt’s narrative on the same subject among those of its -brother river, the Orinoco; both are exceedingly entertaining. - -But what will the mathematicians and military men of Great Britain, or -any other country, say, when I tell them of an Indian who, for a small -consideration, would strike a _medio-real_--half a dime--with an arrow -at an angle of 85°? This was done by placing the money on the top of a -lime or lemon close to the big toe of the archer’s left foot; he then -would bend backwards, assisted by the right one, allowing a sufficient -space between the bow and the lime for the arrow to turn down after -being shot up in the air; and so certain was the aim that the savage -made quite a little fortune about the streets of Caracas, where he -exhibited his skill during the short visit which his Cacique paid -President Paez at the Capital. - -It is also related of another Indian that he could shoot a buzzard -soaring above his head without looking at the bird, guided only by the -shadow cast upon the ground about midday. In connection with this the -reader will find in the work of the Rev. J. C. Fletcher, _Brazil and the -Brazilians_, a wood-cut representing an Indian archer shooting on his -back at a flock of ducks passing over him. A large and strong bow is -bent by his legs while he holds the butt-end of the arrow in his -hands--“In this way they are able to shoot game at a great distance.” - -Although these things appear very wonderful to us, who cannot even -“draw a bow at a venture,” we should recollect that the very existence -of the savage depends upon the accuracy of his aim as, with lightning -speed, he flings the unerring arrow at his prey. No one thinks of -doubting the historical story about the Parthian children who were -obliged to bring down their morning’s meal from the top of a post with a -much more clumsy instrument--the _sling_, thereby acquiring the -wonderful dexterity for which their warriors were famed. - -Some may be inclined to doubt the truth of the stories found in profane -history, but will not dispute the testimony of Scripture, wherein we are -told that the giant-warrior Goliah was slain by the youth David, with -only the help of a sling and a “ pebble from the brook.” It may be said -that it was by Divine aid that David hit the mark so skillfully; but who -shall presume to say that such aid is withheld, because the being -requiring it is a savage and not one of the chosen race? - - * * * * * - -And now, my dear reader, though such wonderful exhibitions of skill as -are related above, may appear to your mind as savoring strongly of the -proverbial exaggeration which is supposed to accompany the relation of -all extraordinary feats of the chase, yet, if we reflect on the thousand -examples which come under our daily observation, illustrating the -marvelous inventive powers of man, and the manual skill required to -produce and apply many of his inventions, you cannot but conclude with -me that there are latent powers given to us by the great Master, which, -when awakened by necessity, can surmount obstacles and attain ends -involving a degree of physical as well as mental perfection almost -superhuman. A constant supply of food is the first and greatest demand -of nature. To attain this, the inhabitants of the vast wilds of South -America have no other resource than the game which their streams and -forests afford; the acmé of their savage education is to excel in the -skill and cunning of the chase; their hunting implements are necessarily -rude and imperfect; consequently, great accuracy of aim, and steadiness -of nerve are required in their successful application. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - -HOMEWARD BOUND. - - -Having now accomplished the most difficult part of our labors, namely, -that of transporting three thousand wild animals across a rising stream -by such primitive means, we took advantage of the few canoes at our -disposal to transfer ourselves and chattels to the other side of the -river. This was not so easily done, as the _creciente_ was rapidly -gaining upon us, with no small risk to our ponderous equipment, which -had to be landed on the sandy beach; and unless quickly removed, while -waiting for another canoe-load, our traps were in constant danger of -being carried off by the boisterous waves of the river. I had thus the -misfortune of being deprived of my hammock, which circumstance compelled -me to seek repose at night on the stiff hide covers of the baggage--not -a very comfortable couch after a hard ride in the hot sun. - -Our long train of baggage-mules and wild beasts necessitated many -stoppages by the way in order to incorporate stragglers, but more -frequently to hunt anew the runaways among the latter--not an easy -task. - -[Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND.] - -The bulls especially showed a marked reluctance to leave behind their -bellowing harems in the everglades across the river. Such was their love -of home in this respect, that we were assured that most of those which -succeeded in evading our pursuit, made their way back to their savannas -in spite of the broad expanse of water which separated them. Much -valuable time and patience were lost in this way, while the increasing -inundation was following fast on our steps, so much so, that long after -we had left the banks of the river on our rear, we had to wade through a -continuous sheet of water, which was every moment rising above the -fetlocks of our beasts. We also had to ford several smaller streams, -already swollen by the rapid rise of the Apure; but, as no canoes could -be had amidst those wilds, for love or money, we availed ourselves of -the primitive contrivance devised on such occasions by means of a raw -hide fashioned into a lighter. The trunks and boxes were carefully piled -inside the skin, and if a person chose to avail himself of this frail -barge, he had only to sit steadily on the top of the baggage; the load -was then carefully launched on the water, the other end of the rope -intrusted to the swimmer and towed in safety to the other side. In this -manner our ponderous Doctor and a few others who were unwilling to -expose their own skin to the tender mercies of the caribes, were -successfully ferried across, although it required a steady nerve not to -stir an inch and thus upset the whole concern. - -Our march across the prairies presented a splendid sight and was -suggestive of a long file of prisoners after a well-contested field of -battle. At the head of the column, which extended for upward of a mile, -marched a strong picket of horsemen, the _Punteros_, guiding the -caravan; and on the sides and rear was another file of men with lazos -ready to unfold after deserters. Lively tunes and whistling were kept up -by the men for the diversion of the cattle, which appeared quite -delighted with the music and in consequence became less restive on the -march. - -When near San Jaime, I, together with a party of young companions, -having separated ourselves from the rest and taken another route, lost -ourselves in the intricate passes leading to the village. This -circumstance, although it delayed us for some time from reaching the -camp, led us to an abundant field of rich honey, the production of a -small wasp called _matajey_, which builds its nest on the branches of -the trees, in the shape of a large ball. The sting of this insect is so -distressing, that persons affected by it become feverish and benumbed; -therefore, in order to possess ourselves of its delicious honey-combs, -we took the precaution to smoke out the wasps by means of a burning rag -at the end of a long pole applied to the mouth of the nest, when the -whole swarm abandoned it to the hunters without molestation. - -It was almost dark when we arrived at San Jaime, having hit accidentally -upon the right path, after wandering the whole day through the woods; -but, being well supplied with honey and water, we did not regret as much -the loss of our dinner, as the fact of its having been prepared by -another kind of swarm, but this time of pretty girls, who had assembled -for the purpose at the cottage of our hospitable host. We enjoyed, -however, the pleasure of their unsophisticated society for some time -before retiring to our hammocks where, fatigued by the toils of our -previous adventure, we speedily lost ourselves again in “sweet, balmy -sleep.” - -Being rather in a hurry to reach the pass before a sudden rise of the -creeks connected with the river Portuguesa, we were up long before -sunrise, and had barely time to partake of a substantial breakfast, -prepared by our charming entertainers. - -Immediately upon our arrival at the pass, we proceeded to force our -cattle across the river, which being less wide than the Apure, and our -herds having become more manageable after the long march, we were -enabled to execute it in better order and less time than at the former -river. Still we contrived somehow or other to tarry here longer than was -necessary, having wasted three days in accomplishing what might have -been the work of one. The fact is, that we were rather taken up with our -former feminine acquaintances, especially at the close of day, when the -party assembled in the barracoon, destined for the _fandango_, which was -usually kept up the whole night. - -Fitful accompaniment to these nocturnal revelries was the deafening -croaking of the toads and frogs, now abounding by myriads in the marshes -and quagmires of the vicinity. The shrill, metallic notes of the frogs, -and the hoarse croaking of their milky brethren, are a feature which -never fails to excite the astonishment of strangers in those regions. -The former especially are so striking, that were an Englishman or -American suddenly transported there, without knowledge of these sounds, -he would imagine himself at home, in the neighborhood of ten thousand -steam whistles. I was assured by our friend B., with reference to the -toads of Guadarrama, a village on the banks of the Portuguese, that one -night he was thrown down in the street by coming in contact with one of -these creatures, which he mistook for a boy in a stooping posture. -Indignant at, what he supposed, the indiscretion of the fellow, B. was -in the act of kicking him away when, to his surprise, he perceived the -seeming boy slowly moving off in the shape of a big toad! - -This, of course, is another of B.’s great yarns, which he endeavored to -pass on us as veritable facts occurring to him during his wandering -peregrinations; but really, putting aside his extravagant stories, such -is the volume of voice and long-sustained sopranos, bassos, and -contraltos of the toads and frogs of South America, that one would -suppose they had lungs as big as those of a manatí. And as regards the -size that these creatures attain here, I may quote a passage from a -recent book of travels in those countries which, had it not appeared in -London simultaneously with the first edition of the _Wild Scenes in -South America_,[65] any one might be inclined to think--after reading -the preceding remarks--that they had been suggested by the perusal of -the following paragraphs: - -“In soft, dripping weather, the country roads become almost impassable, -and my favorite resource was to sit still and read Tennyson or -Longfellow; but the studies of a novice in Brazil, on a wet evening, are -strangely interrupted by the extraordinary proceedings of frogs and -toads of all sorts and sizes, which testify their exuberant joy by the -most discordant noises. Croaking is no name for it. Some of the milder -and quieter kinds may perhaps be said to croak, but these are soon -silenced by another tribe, whose name is Legion, grunting, snorting, and -shrieking like a railway train at full speed; and when they stop for -want of breath, the ‘wondrous song’ is taken up by larger numbers of -other detestable batrachyans, which keep up a frantic revel of rattling -and clattering, such as I have never heard equalled, except by an -intoxicated chorus of May sweeps. - -“Some of the toads are enormous. In one of my mountain rambles I -suddenly spied a very beautiful lycopodium growing in large quantities -on a moist bank, and, without looking at my feet, sprang across the path -to gather a specimen. I stumbled over something very hard and immovable, -and nearly measured my length in the mud; but I seized the lycopodium, -and then turned round to look at the obstacle. It was a monstrous toad, -nearly a foot long, with great yellow pits around its spiteful eyes, and -as ugly a brute as ever I saw. He did not make the least attempt to -move, and seemed to be chuckling over the fact of nearly upsetting a -traveller. A friend of mine, however, told me that he had been offered a -still larger specimen as a present, which he declined to accept on the -ground of ferocity. He said it was as big as a hat, it opened its mouth -like an oyster, barked like a dog, and flew at his legs! A nice pet to -keep in a strawberry-bed!”[66] - -But I never was so struck with the power which frogs alone can exert “in -congress assembled,” as one night that I accompanied--soon after our -return from the Llanos--a military expedition to surprise a band of -revolutionists, who had been committing all sorts of depredations on the -plantations across the lake, and were preparing to attack the town of -Villa de Cura on the road to the plains. We started from Maracay in the -early part of a rainy night, and had to take a circuitous route--it -hardly deserved the name of road--around the eastern end of the lake to -reach the village of Magdaleno (headquarters of the marauders) before -daylight. As the expedition had to be conducted with much precaution, -neither drums nor bugles were allowed; consequently all orders had to be -given _viva-voce_. But when we reached the nearest point to the swampy -borders of the lake, I do not believe that even Stentor could have made -himself heard in the midst of that hellish uproar. To add to our -“confusion worse confounded,” the soil was so spongy and drenched with -the vernal deluge, that infantry and cavalry--we had no artillery--were -nearly swallowed up by the mud before firing a shot at the enemy; -fortunately we extricated ourselves before the latter were apprized of -our approach by a volley fired at our vanguard by one of their advanced -posts near the village, which, had they exhibited the least judgment in -military tactics, they might have stationed a little further off, where -we encountered a turbulent stream which only a portion of our force with -the utmost difficulty could cross. As it turned out, we entered the -village pell-mell with their advanced guard, and soon scattered them -over the neighboring mountains, where further pursuit was utterly -impossible. - -What a glorious chance these swampy realms of Venezuela would offer some -French gourmand desirous of migrating to South America! And yet, strange -to say, our people will not touch that epicurean _bonne-bouche_, which -has conferred a name upon a whole civilized nation: _les sauvages!_ - -Another noisy creature that makes its appearance about this time also, -is the _chicharra_, an insect of the locust tribe, with which the woods -are literally filled, and whose sharp, shrill, and continuous chant -almost surpasses that of the frogs themselves. Fortunately, they are -only heard in the day-time; and our route being mostly over open -prairies, we were not so constantly tormented by them, except whenever -we had to pass through the woods infested by these noisy insects. It -seemed to me that for every leaf of those truly gigantic trees there -were twenty _chicharras_, all singing at the top of their voices, -without the least intermission. What they live upon--for I did not -perceive any damage to the foliage of the trees--and when do they get -their meals, my observations could not discover. Sullivan tells us of -two other insects of the tropics, which joined to the above, might rival -the nocturnal concerts of _maître crapeau_. - -“During our ride, I was startled by hearing what I fully imagined was -the whistle of a steam-engine; but I was informed it was a noise caused -by a beetle that is peculiar to Tobago. It is near the size of a man’s -hand; and fixing itself against a branch commences a kind of drumming -noise, which by degrees quickens to a whistle. It was so loud that, when -standing fully twenty yards from the tree where it was in operation, the -sound was so shrill that you had to raise your voice considerably to -address your neighbor. The entomological productions of the tropics -struck me as being quite as astonishing in size and nature as the -botanical or zoological wonders. There is another beetle, called the -razor-grinder, that imitates the sound of a knife-grinding machine so -exactly, that it is impossible to divest oneself of the belief that one -is in reality listening to ‘some needy knife-grinder’ who has wandered -out to the tropical wilds on spec.”[67] - -Some kinds of trees were also alive with another, though quite harmless -tenant, the _iguana_, a green lizard measuring nearly four feet in -length, and thick in proportion round the body, whose flesh is said to -surpass that of the tenderest chicken, and, I imagine--never having -tasted it--even that of the celebrated French _bonne-bouche_ referred -to above. The eggs which it lays in great profusion, I know from -personal experience, are quite sweet, and can be taken out of the -animal, without injury to the harmless creature, by cutting it open and -sewing it up again. While at San Jaime I heard a story in connection -with this reptile, which is very characteristic of the Spanish -commanders during the war of Independence, and whose memory is still -fresh throughout the country they overran with their exactions. It -appears that one of these gentlemen newly arrived from Spain, had -established his headquarters at San Jaime, which was by this time pretty -well cleaned out of everything that moved upon the earth. One day, the -_soi-disant_ commander was going his rounds about the town, when he met -an Indian boy carrying a brace of _iguanas_ suspended from a stick upon -his shoulders; these lizards, by virtue of their aerial prerogative, or -perhaps on account of their inexhaustible numbers, having escaped the -general onslaught upon other living creatures, not excepting the -inhabitants. The Spaniard, who had never seen iguanas in his country, -naturally had his curiosity aroused, and at once instituted as close an -interrogatory respecting these, as if a doomed “insurgent” had been -brought to him. “Say, boy, are they good to eat?”--“_Si, Señor_,” -replied the boy, who probably had never tasted in his life any other -kind of food.--“What will you take for them?” (quite -considerate).--“_Una peseta, Señor_” (a quarter of a dollar). A bargain -was at once made to the satisfaction of both parties, and the iguanas -were handed over to the orderly beside the commander, who gave the -proper directions to have them served for dinner; and so delighted was -His Excellency with the dish, that he published at once a _bando_ -offering a reward of twenty-five cents for every brace of iguanas -brought to him. Three days afterwards he had to countermand the order -through another _bando_, threatening with capital punishment any one who -would _dare_ to bring him another brace of the horrid-looking creatures, -with which the juvenile portion of the town had by this time filled his -headquarters. - -The favorite haunts of the iguana are the Ceiba, and the Sand-box -trees--_Ura crepitans_--both bristling with sharp thorns, a good -protection against the persecution of predatory boys; otherwise these -lizards fall an easy prey, when perched upon more accessible localities, -by merely “whistling for them;” for being, as it appears, very fond of -musical sounds, they are readily lulled to sleep by that means, while -the captors prepare a noose at the end of a long rod with which they -secure their victim. They do not always fare badly, however, for being -easily domesticated, they are kept as pets by the female portion of the -household, where they become very useful in ridding the cottage of -cockroaches and other vermin. Their bitterest enemies, however, are -roving, lazy Indians, who not only consider them a dainty morsel, but -take particular delight in tormenting these inoffensive creatures by -quartering them alive, and teazing them in various ways; thus, when any -person is in a bad plight his troubles are compared to those of the -iguana in that predicament, as will be seen in the following popular -ditty: - - Los trabajos de la iguana - Cuando los Indios la cojen, - Le quitan los cuatro patas - Y le dicen, iguana, corre! - - * * - - When Indians seize the iguana - Her sorrows are begun, - They cut off her four feet, - And cry, “Iguana, run!” - -How different the case would have been if, instead of the puny, harmless -creatures that iguanas are at the present day, their cruel tormentors -had lived in the times of their prototype, the _Iguanodon_, the most -colossal of the saurian reptiles, sixty feet in length, with a horn on -its snout as formidable as that of the rhinoceros, and teeth sharp -enough to munch to a jelly the most stately Ceiba or Sand-box tree. “It -is difficult to resist the feeling of astonishment, not to say -incredulity”--observes Figuier--“which creeps over one while -contemplating the disproportion so striking between this being of the -ancient world and its congener of the new.”[68] The Iguanodon was in -fact an iguana of huge dimensions, enjoying the freedom of the jungle -with the _Hylæosaurus_ and the _Megalosaurus_--two other saurian -monsters of the cretaceous period. The latter is represented as -possessing teeth in perfect accord with the destructive functions -developed in this formidable creature, for they partake at once of the -knife, the sabre, and the saw. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - -CALABOZO. - - -While quietly absorbed one day in the pleasures of the angler by the -banks of a creek not far from the camp, I was startled in my peaceful -occupation by the report of fire-arms in that direction. There were -rumors concerning the depredations of a band of robbers in that -neighborhood, and therefore I had every reason to suppose they had been -bold enough to attack our little band of resolute men with a view to -plundering the camp. To pack up lines and portfolio was the work of an -instant, and hurrying toward the camp, I arrived breathless and panting -with fatigue in time to get the last glimpses of the cause of this -uproar in the shape of a _lancha_ gliding quickly down the river. It -seems that the boatmen, delighted with the presence of the beloved -Chieftain of the Llanos, immediately recurred to the usual way of -expressing their enthusiasm, whether in peace or war, through the means -of the all-potent gunpowder. In the afternoon of the same day a -detachment of horse, composed for the most part of citizens from -Calabozo, arrived at the pass to invite the general to their city, and -to offer him protection, in case of need, from the band of desperadoes -above mentioned; these had already been bold enough to attack the prison -guard of Calabozo, with the object of carrying off one of its inmates, a -prominent citizen of the place who had been implicated in the robbery of -a large drove of mules. Although it was currently reported that his two -sons were the perpetrators of this unworthy act, yet, the fact that the -animals were found on his estate, and his stout refusal to implicate his -sons, made him responsible for the robbery; he was therefore -incarcerated and his trial had commenced when his sons, adding sedition -to theft, attacked the prison during the night with a band of peons from -their own and other cattle estates. The result was most disastrous to -the assailants; one of the sons having been badly wounded in the strife -was taken prisoner and shot in the public square; while the other -forfeited his life soon after during the vigorous persecution undertaken -by the citizens against his band. Yet, this handful of men, badly armed -and without leaders, but with a wide field of forest and savannas for -retreat, and plenty of cattle for subsistence, continued for a long time -to engage the serious attention of the government; and finally, when the -following revolution broke out, they formed the nucleus around which the -rebel party mustered very strong. In this manner many depredators not -only evade the punishment of justice for their crimes, but eventually -rise in importance, and even become leading spirits in the land where -the laws are powerless in repressing their excesses. - -With this encouraging prospect before us, we bade adieu to the gay -brunettes of La Portuguesa and took the straightest route to Calabozo, -across the great _estero_ or swamp of Camaguan. An entire day was spent -in wading through this refreshing transit route, which, owing to the -increasing rise of the river, had already acquired the aspect of a broad -lake. Our horses were most of the time immersed in the water up to the -saddle girths, and few of them escaped total submersion, wherever there -were any depressions of the ground. Many of the baggage mules -especially, having no rider to guide them, lost their footing and rolled -in the water, to the great discomfort of those who had any articles of -apparel in their loads. Toward the afternoon we emerged from this dismal -swamp and made a landing at a place called Banco Largo, celebrated in -the annals of the horse epidemic as the cattle estate upon which the -wrath of Heaven fell after the blasphemous boasting of its owner. - -We were beginning to appreciate the comfort of riding again upon firm -ground, when we observed a group of horsemen emerging from the palmar on -our right, galloping in the direction of our scouts, as if threatening -to cut them off. Fearing lest they might be the band of robbers whom we -had every reason to suspect of evil intentions, we put spurs to our -horses in hot chase of them. Mistaking us in turn for those gentry, the -strangers pushed on ahead of us to evade our pursuit. Our scouts -observing their retreat cut off by a larger force, were not slow in -their endeavors to reach the farm-house, where they could defend -themselves against the supposed robbers until we could come up to their -assistance. The suspected party being mounted on fresh horses, we found -it difficult, however, to overtake them. Fortunately one of their horses -stumbled accidentally in a hole, throwing down the rider, which -circumstance placed him in our hands; from him we ascertained that they -were not _salteadores_, but _vaqueros_ from a neighboring cattle farm, -whom the annoyances of the _mosquilla_ had compelled to ride through the -palmar at robber’s speed. His companions observing that we permitted him -to depart in peace, now slackened their pace, and had their fears -dispelled before they could carry the alarm to other places that the -_salteadores_ were close at hand. - -At Venegas, a cattle State not far from Calabozo, we parted company with -our herds, abandoning their care and guidance to the efficient caporals, -while we proceeded direct to the Palmyra of the Llanos, always escorted -by the citizen-guard who had come so far to meet us. Another deputation -from the city, composed of the most prominent persons in the place, met -us at the pass of the Guárico, and after a few congratulatory -compliments, we rode on without stopping until we reached the village of -the Mision de Abajo. Here we remained long enough to change our wet -garments and partake of a collation prepared at the summer residence of -an old soldier of Independence. This village is famous on account of -several crystalline springs issuing from deep gullies made by the water -on a hard conglomerate composed of sand, pebbles, and nodules of -beautiful agates; the whole cemented together by a calcareous substance, -consisting probably of minute shells of infusoria.[69] Some of the -pools measure several fathoms in depth; yet the water is so transparent, -that the smallest pebble can be clearly discerned at the bottom; I also -noticed many small fish. These sparkling natural fountains were shaded -by groves of balsamiferous plants, such as copaiferas, amyris, and -carob-trees, the dark foliage of which was relieved by a carpet of green -grass extending for miles around, the whole presenting an appearance of -a well-cultivated and beautifully laid out English park. Thither resort, -during the sultry months of summer, the inhabitants of Calabozo, who now -came out in vast numbers to welcome us to their beautiful city. - -The procession was formed on the extensive natural lawn, three miles in -length, between the village and the city, which rose in the distance -amidst the towering foliage of the fan-palms surrounding it in oriental -magnificence. As we entered the narrow, but cleanly streets, the firing -of muskets, pistols, and blunderbusses commenced amidst the _vivas_ of -the population, while a shower of roses fell on the favored head of the -“Lion of the Llanos,”[70] as he passed under the windows of the houses. - -The city of Calabozo, capital of the province of El Guárico, is situated -upon the northern extremity of the _mesa_ or plateau of the same name, -commanding an extensive view of the picturesque country watered by the -beautiful river which gives its name to the province. Unlike all the -other towns of the Llanos, Calabozo is an extremely well-built city, -with streets running at right angles. The houses are neat and -commodious, ranking with the best in the capital of the republic. It -contains a number of fine churches, one of which was built at the -expense of a wealthy cattle proprietor of the place; it is one of the -finest temples in the country. - -Words cannot do justice to the enthusiastic reception and boundless -hospitality extended to us on this occasion by the generous inhabitants. -In addition to the regular entertainments, such as breakfast and -dinner-parties, balls, and _fandangos_ provided daily in their city -residences, we were occasionally treated to a _fête champêtre, á la -llanera_, in their _quintas_ or country-houses. Most of these are -situated on the banks of the beautiful Guárico, on the slopes of the -plateau upon which the city is built; and there, amidst the most -luxuriant groves of orange, lemon, and other tropical fruits, the -abundant fare was served to us in true Llanero style. In the mean time -the _trovatori_ of the Llanos did not fail to enliven the scene with -their never-ending _trovas llaneras_, in which especial mention was made -of the most prominent persons to whom we were indebted for this -munificent hospitality; but more particularly to the past deeds of the -personage who prompted it. The broad fan-shaped leaves of the -_moriche_-palm. (Mauritia flexuosa)--the celebrated Tree of Life of the -Warraoun Indians--supplied the most appropriate table-cloths on these -occasions, spread in the vicinity of some murmuring spring, issuing in -most cases from the foot of the palm-trees. The natives believe that -this plant possesses the power of pumping water from the ground by means -of its matted roots: they evidently confound cause and effect in this, -as well as in many other cases; for this luxuriant palm will not thrive -except in moist ground. The slopes of the _mesa_ acting as a vast drain -to the plain above, offer this desideratum to the _moriche_-palm. Some -of the springs are of a thermal character, but not too warm to prevent -persons enjoying a most refreshing bath. I noticed, in one instance, two -springs running side by side, one of which was cold and the other warm. -The tide-flooded lands on the Lower Orinoco and Amazon rivers seem to be -particularly adapted to the development of this noble[71] species of -palm. “In those places,” says Wallace,[72] “there is no underwood to -break the view among interminable ranges of huge columnar trunks, rising -unbroken by branch or leaf to the height of eighty or a hundred feet, a -vast natural temple, which does not yield in grandeur and sublimity to -those of Palmyra or Athens.” - -A full-grown leaf of this tree is quite a load for one man to carry. The -petiole, or leaf-stock, is a solid beam ten or twelve feet long, while -the leaf or fan itself measures nine or ten across. The fruit, in -bunches of three hundred and upward, perfectly resembles the cones of -the white pine. When arrived at its maturity, it is yellow within and -scarlet without, covered with scales. - -The benefits of this life-supporting tree may be reckoned as numerous as -the number of days in the year. From the unopened leaves the wild man of -the forest obtains a fibre remarkable for its toughness, and which he -twists into cordage for his bow-string and fishing tackle, or weaves it -into elegant hammocks and aprons for himself and family; he also plats -them neatly into mats and cloaks, and even sails for his canoe; when -fully expanded, these leaves form the best thatch for his hut. From the -terminal bud or inner layer of leaves, commonly styled the cabbage of -the palm, the Indian procures a vegetable quite analogous to, and more -tender and delicious than a similar production of the garden. The fruit -in like manner affords a variety of alimentary substances, according to -the season in which it is gathered, whether its saccharine pulp is fully -mature, or whether it is in a green state. Like the plantain and the -celebrated peach-palm of the Rio Negro, it is either eaten raw, when -fully ripe, or roasted--in the latter case tasting very much like -chestnuts. Soaked in water and allowed to ferment, it forms a pleasant -drink somewhat resembling _pulque_. The ripe fruit also yields by -boiling in water, an oil which is readily converted into soap by means -of the ashes of a Clusia, (_quiripití_.) “The spathe, too--a fibrous bag -which envelops the fruit before maturity--is much valued by the Indian, -furnishing him with an excellent and durable cloth. Taken off entire, it -forms bags in which he keeps the red paint for his toilet, or the silk -cotton for his arrows, or he even stretches out the larger ones to make -himself a cap, cunningly woven by nature without a seam or joining. When -cut open longitudinally and pressed flat, it is used to preserve his -delicate feather ornaments and gala dresses, which are kept in a chest -of plaited palm-leaves between layers of smooth _bussú_ cloth.”[73] The -trunk of the male tree contains a farinaceous meal, _yuruma_, resembling -sago, and like the fecula of the tapioca-root, it is readily converted -into bread by simply drying it on hot earthen plates. Allowed to rot in -the stem, this meal gives birth to numerous fat worms, highly esteemed -by Indian gourmands. Tapped near the base of the leaves, the trunk -yields also an abundance of a sweet liquor, which, when fermented, forms -one of the various kinds of palm-wines. Such are in substance some of -the most useful products of this veritable tree of life, with which the -existence of a rude people is as intimately connected, as that of -civilized man is with the luxuries and comforts that surround his home. -“When the Tamanacks,” says Humboldt, “are asked how the human race -survived the great deluge, the ‘age of water’ of the Mexicans, they say: -‘a man and a woman saved themselves on a high mountain, called Tamanacu, -situated on the banks of the Asiberu, and casting the fruit of the -moriche-palm, they saw the seeds contained in these fruits produce men -and women who repeopled the earth.’ Thus we find in all its simplicity, -among nations now in a savage state, a tradition which the Greeks -embellished with all the charms of imagination.” - -To protect themselves from the attacks of mosquitoes and wild beasts, -the tribes roaming over the great delta of the Orinoco, are in the habit -of raising between the huge trunks of the palm-trees hanging platforms -skilfully interwoven with the foliage, which allow them to live in the -trees like monkeys. The floor of these aërial habitations is covered -with a coating of mud, on which the fires for household purposes are -made. Thus when the first explorers of the Orinoco River penetrated for -the first time into that exuberant _terra incognita_, they were -surprised to observe, among the tops of the palm-trees, flames issuing -at night as if suspended in the air. “The Guaranis still owe the -preservation of their physical, and perhaps their moral independence, to -the half-submerged, marshy soil over which they roam with a light and -rapid step, and to their elevated dwellings in the trees, a habitation -never likely to be chosen from motives of religious enthusiasm by an -American Stylites.”[74] - -I also met for the first time at Calabozo with the most splendid -rose-bush, or rather tree, I had ever seen, and which appears to be -indigenous to that hot region, as I am told that the same grows in great -luxuriance at San Fernando and Ciudad Bolívar, but was unknown to the -rest of the country previous to our visit to the Llanos. Being -passionately fond of flowers myself, I did not neglect to bring along -with me this beautiful new variety to our home in the Valleys of Aragua, -where it soon displayed its countless blossoms to the admiring gaze of -the passers by. From thence it was also carried by me to Caracas, where -it soon became the general favorite of the fair dames of the Capital, -who by unanimous accord named it, not as might be supposed after the -introducer, but after his father, with which the former was equally well -satisfied; and certainly no more beautiful compliment could have been -paid their favorite champion, than by associating his name with the -acknowledged Queen of Beauty among flowers. The size attained by this -plant surpasses any thing of the kind with which I am acquainted. When -favored by a dry and hot climate like that of Calabozo, its shoots -attain a height of fifteen to twenty feet with a corresponding -thickness; so that a hammock with its usual load can be supported -between two trees; and as these put out a great number of branches, each -of them loaded with flowers or buds ready to expand, they present a -sight truly splendid. A hundred blossoms may be plucked each morning of -the year without marring its luxuriant beauty. I have myself counted -over one thousand buds on a single plant. These flowers are of a -delicate pink color, with very regular petals of a deciduous nature; so -that in detaching themselves from the calix, they cover the ground upon -which the parent grows, with a rosy carpet. - - “Sin flores y sin hermosas - Qué fuera de los mortales? - Bien habeis nacido, rosas, - Sobre el lodo de los males.” - --AROLAS. - - -TRANSLATION. - - “Without beauty, without flowers, - What would be this world of ours? - Well, that e’en in misery dire - Find we roses ’mid the mire.” - -The truth of the above sentiment we soon realized; from this time a -succession of misfortunes, commencing with a violent attack of fever -which nearly carried us all to the grave, and ending with the -destruction of our property and peaceful homes, followed one another -without intermission. - -The fever was doubtless induced by our previous exposure on the journey -and subsequent dissipations at Calabozo, although the city itself is one -of the healthiest spots in the republic. Unfortunately, our physician, -who was blessed with a very jealous wife, had been summoned home by his -better half on hearing of our approach to the fairy metropolis of the -Llanos. However, there were two or three medical gentlemen in the place, -and these, with the unremitting kindness and assistance of the ladies, -managed to keep us alive until a skilful physician, who had been sent -for, arrived from the Valleys of Aragua. The critical condition of our -respected Leader and sire particularly gave them serious fears, as the -fever in his case had commenced to assume a malignant character. Courier -after courier was despatched across the miry plains to hasten the -arrival of the doctor, while the generous inhabitants vied with each -other in the anxious cares with which they surrounded the sick-bed of -their beloved guest. Years have rolled on, and many changes have since -taken place, both in the affairs of the nation and in the fortunes of -the subject of these remarks; yet, their love for the “Martyr of San -Antonio,”[75] far from diminishing, seems to have increased during his -protracted exile; for, as late as 1861, after the overthrow of Monagas, -a petition addressed to Pres. Tovar asking his recall, and signed by all -the inhabitants of Calabozo, has come to hand, protesting in the -strongest terms against the impolicy and injustice of leaving him still -in exile when the nation most needs his counsel and influence. Justly -deprecating the horrors of civil war and the want of unity which have -existed in the republic since the downfall of the Monagas party, the -petitioners conclude with this feeling outburst of patriotic solicitude -for the absence of their favorite champion: “From the far-off shores of -the Arauca, to the sources of our own Guárico, our anxious horsemen -watch incessantly the far horizon, inquire from the passing breezes of -the destinies of the Hero, who has condemned himself to voluntary exile, -and then exclaim with a sigh: ‘Were he again to lead us on to battle, -Victory would be forthcoming, strengthened by Peace, and blessed by the -vanquished.’” - - - - -CONCLUSION. - - -Here, courteous reader, end our rough journeys across the Llanos, and -our real troubles commence; for having been involved--contrary to my own -inclination, it must be owned--in the political strifes so prevalent in -Spanish America, I have been compelled to wander ever since, from land -to land, like the mysterious Jew of the French novelist, Eugene Sue, -with neither settled home nor abiding place of rest. What I saw and -learned worth relating during my peregrinations, hither and thither, -will make the subject of the _Second Series_ of these sketches, which, -if your patience is not exhausted or my repertoire does not give out, I -trust to lay before you at no distant day. In the meantime you must -excuse any imperfections in the style and composition of this book, -considering that I write in a language which is not my own, and which -often perplexes even those who have more claims to it than myself, so -many are its grammatical irregularities. - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [1] _Vide_ New York “Herald,” of July 17th and Aug. 5th, 1867. - - [2] _Vide_ New York “World,” of Aug. 5th, 1866. - - [3] Author of “Brazil and the Brazilians.” - - [4] “Such is the state to which colonial politics and - mal-administration have during three centuries reduced a country - which, for natural wealth, may vie with all that is most wonderful on - earth.” - - - HUMBOLDT, _Travels_, vol. iii., c. 27. - - - [5] The late discoveries made in Venezuelian Guiana prove that the - statements of Sir Walter Raleigh and other adventurers of his time - were not without foundation, as gold of the finest quality and in - the greatest abundance, is now gathered over an extent of territory - surpassing in richness and natural resources the famous California and - Australia placers. - - [6] “Rambles and Scrambles in North and South America.”, by Edward - Sullivan, Esq. London, 1852. - - [7] Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America. - - [8] The writer is mistaken; the Saddle stands four or five miles east - of this point, which is called _La Cumbre_, or the Summit. - - [9] Centigrade thermom. - - [10] Humboldt--Travels. - - [11] Travels in Peru and India. - - [12] Gosse’s “Romance of Natural History.” - - [13] Romance of Natural History. - - [14] A species of Mimosa. - - [15] Slavery has since been abolished in Venezuela. - - [16] “Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.” - - [17] Andres Bello. - - [18] Sullivan.--Rambles and Scrambles in North and South America. - - [19] Linnæus, in his enthusiasm for the delightful beverage - obtained from the cacao bean, named the plant that produces it - _theobroma_--food for the gods. - - [20] Journeys across the Pampas. - - [21] Mons. de Lavayesse, in his interesting work on Venezuela, makes - some pertinent remarks on this subject worthy of the consideration - and study of learned physiologists. “Why is it,” he says, “that - individuals proceeding from a mixture of African and indigenous - American blood, have greater strength, finer forms, more intellectual - faculties and moral energy, than the Negro or Indian? Why, although - the white be, in general, superior in strength of body, mental powers, - and in moral force, to the aboriginal American and to the negro--why, - I ask, are the individuals born of the union of a white with an Indian - woman, (the Mestizos, for instance,) inferior in mental and corporeal - qualities to the Zambos? Why are the Mestizos generally distinguished - by finer figures, agreeable countenances, and in mildness and - docility of their dispositions? Why is the mulatto, son of a white - and a negress, superior to the Zambo in intellectual faculties, - but his inferior in physical? Why is it, that when those races are - mixed, their progeny is remarkable for a more healthy and vigorous - constitution, and for more vital energy, than the individuals born - in the same climate of indigenous European or African blood, without - mixture?” - - [22] See Humboldt, Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America. - - [23] Since the above first appeared in print, I find this fact - corroborated by Sir J. Emerson Tennent, in his interesting “Sketches - on the NAT. HIST. OF CEYLON,” as practised by the natives of that - island. - - [24] _Rastrero_--a native of El Rastro--literally, a mean rogue. - - [25] The eyes of crocodiles are green. - - [26] Centigrade Thermom. = 97° to 126° Fah. - - [27] Wanderings in South America. - - [28] Dr. Lindley, speaking of the properties of Aristolochias in - general, and more especially of A. serpentaria--a North American - species--observes: “As its name implies, it is used as an antidote to - serpent bites, a quality in which several other species participate, - among which may be mentioned A. trilobata, a Jamaica plant, also - employed as a sudden and powerful sudorific; and the Cartagena - A. unguicida, concerning which Jaquin writes, that the juice of - the root, chewed and introduced into the mouth of a serpent, so - stupefies it that it may for a long time be handled with impunity; - if the reptile is compelled to swallow a few drops, it perishes in - convulsions.”--_Vegetable Kingdom._ - - [29] The Romance of Natural History--Second Series, chap. ix. - - [30] _Tio Tigre_ and _Tio Conejo_--Uncle Tiger and Uncle Rabbit. These - are the heroes of endless adventures, the mother’s never-failing - source of amusement to her children, supposed to have taken place in - the woods of Venezuela. - - [31] Waterton’s “Wanderings in South America.” - - [32] Gosse: The Romance of Natural History. - - [33] The pulpy covering of the seeds of Bixa orellana. - - [34] Gosse: The Romance of Natural History--First Series, p. 281. - - [35] Raised by a warlike tribe of Indians inhabiting the peninsula of - La Goagira, on the Gulf of Maracaibo. - - [36] The pig-pen. - - [37] Amateur. - - [38] Sheep-skin. - - [39] For explanation, see page 231. - - [40] Howling monkey. - - [41] Horsemen furnished with lazos. - - [42] Nevertheless, Paez took particular care to preserve the breed of - cattle on the plains of Apure. Notwithstanding that he was continually - engaged in war, he issued most effective orders to prevent its - extinction. The origin of all the cattle estates which are at present - to be found in Venezuela is to be traced to the Apure plains. - - [43] Uncle. A name by which the Llaneros frequently address Paez. - - [44] _Recollections of a Service of Three Years during the War of - Extermination in the Republics of Venezuela and Colombia._ London, - 1828. See also _Campaigns and Cruises in Venezuela_. London, 1831. - - [45] Autobiografia del General José A. Paez. Nueva York, 1867. - - [46] See page 62. - - [47] _Natural History of Ceylon._ - - [48] Gosse, _Romance of Natural History_. - - [49] Travels on the Rio Negro. - - [50] “Piscidea erithryna and Jacquinia armillaris.”--_Humboldt._ - - [51] Guerior? This was the name of a town founded at the confluence - of the Paragua and Caroni rivers, long since destroyed or - abandoned.--_The Author._ - - [52] Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America. - - [53] Keymis, the lieutenant of Raleigh. - - [54] The first of the voyages undertaken at Raleigh’s expense was - in 1595; the second, that of Laurence Keymis, in 1696; the third, - described by Thomas Masham, in 1597; and the fourth, in 1617. The - first and the last only were performed by Raleigh in person. This - celebrated man was beheaded October the 29th, 1618.--HUMBOLDT. - - [55] The predictions of the old Missionary of the Orinoco have been - singularly verified in these latter times by the still more recent - discoveries in Peru; for, as I write this, the news comes from that - country that, in the mountains of Chanchamayo, Upper Amazon, “some - gold mines have been discovered, which, for their abundance and - richness, surpass those of California.”--_Nacional_, of Lima. - - [56] Jorge de Spira (George von Speier) and Felipe de Utre (Utre, Von - Huten), as well as Federmann, were all Germans. - - [57] See map, at frontispiece. - - [58] Conquest of Peru, vol. ii., p. 164. - - [59] “All fables have some real foundation; that of El Dorado - resembles those myths of antiquity which, travelling from - country to country, have been successively adapted to different - localities.”--_Humboldt_, vol. iii., p. 26, _Bohn’s Edition_. - - [60] Travels to the Equinoctial Regions. - - [61] The Naturalist on the Amazon. - - [62] A kind of beer made from Indian-corn. - - [63] Humboldt, Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America. - - [64] The Naturalist on the Amazons, vol. ii., p. 260. London, 1863. - - [65] See London Athenæum of August 3, 1863, which contains a full - review of both books. - - [66] South American Sketches, by Thos. Woodbine Hinchliff, F. R. G. S. - - [67] Rambles in North and South America. - - [68] _La Terre avant le Déluge._ - - [69] See Darwin, Geology of the Pampas, pp. 129-171. Murray, 1852. - - [70] Leon de los Llanos, or Leon de Payara--the appellation given - to General Pæz by the people after the action of San Juan de Payara - in 1837, when he defeated with his body-guard of sixty Llaneros the - forces of the rebel chieftain Farfan, numbering one thousand. - - [71] Linneus, in his enthusiasm for the splendid family of palms, - calls them the princes of the vegetable kingdom. - - [72] Palms of the Amazon and Rio Negro. - - [73] Wallace, Palms of the Amazon and Rio Negro. - - [74] The followers of a sect founded in Syria by the fanatical - pillar-saint, Simeon Sinanites.--HUMBOLDT. - - [75] _San Antonio_, an old castle in Cumaná, where General Paez was - kept in durance for nine months by the late ruler of Venezuela, - General José T. Monagas. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels and adventures in South and -Central America, by Ramón Páez - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 52612-0.txt or 52612-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/6/1/52612/ - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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-background-color:#ffffff;font-variant:normal;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;text-indent:0em;} -@media print, handheld -{.pagenum - {display: none;} - } -</style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels and adventures in South and Central -America, by Ramón Páez - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Travels and adventures in South and Central America - First series: Life in the Llanos of Venezuela - -Author: Ramón Páez - -Release Date: July 21, 2016 [EBook #52612] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="296" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: cover" /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></p> -<p class="c"><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image -will bring up a larger version.)</span></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="front" id="front"></a></p> - -<p><a name="ill_1" id="ill_1"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-a000_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-a000_sml.jpg" width="550" height="373" alt="Image unavailable: Map of Venezuela." /></a> -<br /> - -<span class="nonvis">[<a href="images/illus-a000_lg.jpg">Larger version</a> (150kb)] -[<a href="images/illus-a000_huge.jpg">Largest version</a> (500kb)] -</span> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i"></a>{i}</span></p> - -<h1> -TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES<br /> -<br /> -IN<br /> -<br /> -SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA.</h1> - -<p class="cbsep">FIRST SERIES:<br /><br /> -<img src="images/title.png" -width="450" -height="40" -alt="Image unavailable: Life in the Llanos of Venezuela." -/><br /> -<br /><br /> -<small>BY</small> -<br /> -DON RAMON PAEZ.<br /> -<br /> -<small>“NIHIL ARDUUM MORTALIBUS.”</small><br /> -<br /> -NEW YORK:<br /> -CHARLES SCRIBNER & CO., 654 BROADWAY.<br /> -1868.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii"></a>{ii}</span></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Oh! it is the land where brightest hues<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Gild sunset skies and glow in morning dews<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where flowers the fairest ever seem to bloom,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of the world’s empire, to adorn the tomb.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where blandest breezes on elastic wing,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Gladness and vigor to the bosom bring;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where hang at once, within thy sunny bowers,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">On citron trees, the fruitage and the flowers;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where hearts are ardent as the sun’s they feel,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And buoyant as the gales that o’er them steal;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where maiden’s love as close, as sweet will twine,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">As cling the tendrils of their native vine;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where the deep lustre of soft beauty’s eye<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Transcends the brightness of its own clear sky.”<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><span class="smcap">Godfrey’s</span> “<i>Cordelia</i>.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="c"><small> -Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by<br /> -RAMON PAEZ.<br /> -In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the<br /> -Southern District of New York.</small></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii"></a>{iii}</span> </p> - -<p class="c"> -TO<br /> -<br /> -<span class="ltspc">MORRIS KETCHUM, ESQ.,</span><br /> -<br /> -<small>THE<br /> -<br /> -KIND AND CONSTANT FRIEND<br /> -<br /> -TO THE</small><br /> -<br /> -<span class="ltspc">EXILED AUTHOR.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv"></a>{iv}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v"></a>{v}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was my lot several years ago—I need not state how many—to be -brought forth into this world amid the wild scenes which I propose to -describe. Later in life I was fortunate enough to be sent by my parents -to England, for the purpose of finishing my education under the tuition -of the learned fathers at the College of Stonyhurst. While there, I had -the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the inimitable author of -“Wanderings in South America,” Charles Waterton, Esq., who years before -had also been an inmate of that celebrated institution, and whose book -became at once my favorite study, on account of the graphic descriptions -it contains of animals and objects with which I was already familiar. -The works of the distinguished traveller, Baron von Humboldt, who first -made those regions known to the civilized world, next afforded me an -endless source of scientific enjoyment, developing in me an early taste -for the natural history and physical wonders of my native land.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi"></a>{vi}</span></p> - -<p>On my return home, I immediately turned my steps toward</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Those matted woods ...<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey,”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">anxious to study nature in her own sanctuary; but, owing to the -unfortunate state of affairs in the country, I did not enjoy long my -cherished dreams of exploring it through all its extent. Sufficient -information was, however, obtained in my rambles through the plains, to -enlarge upon a subject scarcely touched upon by travellers.</p> - -<p>Thus from my earliest days have I been associated with the scenes -forming the text of the present narrative, which I venture to lay before -the public, trusting more in the indulgence and characteristic -generosity of the Anglo-Saxon race toward foreigners, than in my own -ability to fulfil the arduous undertaking.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii"></a>{vii}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td class="rt"><small>CHAP</small>.</td><td valign="top"> </td> -<td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_xi">xi</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Departure</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Morros</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_016">16</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Llanos</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_026">26</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Llaneros</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_040">40</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Scenes at the Fishery</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_057">57</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Wild Horses</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_074">74</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Across the Pampas</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_085">85</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">La Portuguesa</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Apure River</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Savannas of Apure</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_133">133</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">El Frio</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_148">148</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Birds of Ill Omen and Carrion Hawks</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_163">163</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Rodeo</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_175">175</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Branding Scenes</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_189">189</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Plants and Snakes</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">XVI.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Tiger Stories</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_222">222</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">XVII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Shooting Adventures</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_238">238</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Mata Totumo</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_250">250</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">XIX.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Monkey Notions</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_262">262</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">XX.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Among the Crocodiles</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">XXI.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Cimarronera</span>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii"></a>{viii}</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_294">294</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">XXII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Los Borales</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_315">315</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">XXIII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Our Leader</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">XXIV.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Scenes at the Pass of Apurito</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_362">362</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">XXV.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Wonders of the River</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_378">378</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">XXVI.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Land of El Dorado</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_391">391</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">XXVII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">The Oil Wells of the Orinoco</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_430">430</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">XXVIII.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Homeward Bound</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_448">448</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">XXIX.</a></td><td valign="top"> <span class="smcap">Calabozo</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_460">460</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="blk"> -<p class="c"><a name="NOTE" id="NOTE"></a>NOTE.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> favorable—I may say flattering—notice which the previous editions -of the <i>Wild Scenes in South America</i> received from the press of this -country, and more especially from that of Great Britain, has encouraged -the Author of that work to make several material changes, not only in -the text—whole chapters having been stricken out and their place -supplied by new matter—but in the general plan of the book, with the -object of presenting it to the young American reader—to whom this -edition is especially devoted—in a form which will convey a more -comprehensive view of the wonders of a region scarcely known here, -except to the scientific through the works of Baron von Humboldt and -other European travellers who have visited it from time to time in the -pursuit of knowledge, or for pleasure. It is to be hoped, however, that -with the increased facilities offered by the various lines of steamships -now plying regularly between this country and various points in South -America, a more lively interest than hitherto has been evinced here, -will be aroused among the citizens of the Great Republic towards -countries which, by their geographical position and other natural -advantages, are destined to become the emporiums of a vast trade with -the United States of North America.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix"></a>{ix}</span></p> -</div> - -<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Know’st thou the land where the citron grows,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where midst its dark foliage the golden orange glows?<br /></span> -<span class="i6">Thither, thither let us go.”<br /></span> -<span class="i15"><span class="smcap">Goethe.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="smcap">To Young America</span>:<br /> -</p> - -<p>“Smart,” as the world over, you are acknowledged to be—in which opinion -I most heartily concur, having myself spent among you the best part of -my life—permit me to call your attention to one important fact which -has escaped your notice thus far, or rather that of your teachers, -namely, a better acquaintance with that vast and glorious portion of our -great continent lying at your very portals, South America—a region of -which you have only a faint idea from the meagre information supplied by -your School Geographies and occasional newspaper correspondents, but in -fact a land of wondrous exuberance and untold natural wealth, which -offers you a field of enterprise worthy of the founders of the States of -California and Oregon, and the Territories of Montana, Arizona, and -Colorado.</p> - -<p>It is a fact that while Europe, situated as it is far beyond our own -hemisphere, has always sent her <i>very best</i> men to represent her in the -South American States, and to explore<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x"></a>{x}</span> and report upon every thing worth -knowing, this country, America <i>par excellence</i>, has sent <i>none</i> as yet -but broken down and quarrelsome politicians, who, according to the -statements of some of the leading periodicals of this country,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> are -absolutely incompetent to fill their post with credit to the nation they -represent. To my own personal knowledge I can testify as to the class of -men sent afloat to Venezuela, one of whom had previously been master of -a tug-boat on the Orinoco and Apure rivers, but through political -influence at home was suddenly enabled to emerge from that obscure -though honorable calling to that of a diplomatic functionary, although -it is but fair to state that his social status in that country was in no -wise improved by his change of vocation. When his term of office -expired, with the change of administration at headquarters, he was duly -replaced by another, whose conduct was so disgraceful<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> that his -countrymen resident in the Republic petitioned the Government at home to -remove him forthwith, which was granted, but only to replace him by -another—since deceased—who, I am informed, was the only drunken man -seen in the streets of the capital.</p> - -<p>Thanks to the unaided efforts of a missionary gentleman, Rev. Mr. -Fletcher,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> the magnificent empire of Brazil has lately been brought to -the notice of the people of the United States, who, quick to appreciate -the commercial advantages offered by a foreign country, when fully -demonstrated to them, have already established a line of steamers -between New York and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi"></a>{xi}</span> the principal ports of the Empire. Outside of this -the people of this enterprising country have only had occasional -glimpses of the vast continent of South America, from the notes of -casual travellers and the official reports of Lieuts. Page, Herndon, and -Gibbon, of the navy, who confined their observations principally to the -practicability of navigating the two great rivers Amazon and La Plata, -already surveyed by their respective governments and explored from end -to end by several European travellers. It is to be hoped, however, that -the eminent naturalist, Agassiz, who lately visited the former river -with reference to a particular branch of science, will give us the -result of his explorations as clearly, and relieved of the -technicalities of scientific lore so common among naturalists, as the -distinguished artist Church, who several years ago penetrated, “on his -own hook,” to the <i>heart of the Andes</i>, has presented the grand and -beautiful ridge on canvass to the eyes of admiring thousands who have -gazed upon his admirable paintings, thus familiarising the outside world -with that picturesque region, and earning for himself a name second to -none in the estimation of the artistic world.</p> - -<p>North Americans cannot longer <i>ignore</i> that great section of our -continent which, during thirteen years, <i>warred to the knife</i> against -her powerful antagonists, Spain and Portugal, for the possession of -those political principles proclaimed years before by their own Great -Republic; for it is a fact, that while most of the European nations -hastened to acknowledge the independence of the South American States, -the United States of America were the last to recognize them; and if we -of the South have not been as successful in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii"></a>{xii}</span> establishment of -Republican Institutions as our brethren of the North, the fault is not -ours, but is to be attributed to the “peculiar institutions” implanted -on our soil by its fanatical and remorseless conquerors, so utterly -inimical to enlightened educational development.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<p>And now look, on the other hand, to the host of distinguished names that -figure among the European representatives and explorers in the various -sections of South America, and the advantages gained by the countries -they represent. At the head of all stands the illustrious Humboldt, who -was the first to penetrate that comparatively unknown region at the time -(1799), and to lay open her wondrous treasures before the civilized -world. Any eulogistic comments upon this truly great man are -superfluous: the world is filled with his fame, as radiant as the -celestial spheres above, which he overran likewise with his penetrating -mind, and after devoting nearly three quarters of a century to the study -of the Universe, he died only a few years ago at the advanced age of -ninety-two, in the full enjoyment of his mental faculties. His works are -the grandest monument of the nineteenth century.</p> - -<p>To Prussia we are indebted for the services of another resolute -explorer, Prince Adalbert, who fearlessly penetrated to the remotest -parts of Brazil, and the botanists, von Tschudi, Karzten, and Moritz, -who have enriched the European<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiii" id="page_xiii"></a>{xiii}</span> museums and conservatories with the -treasures of our Flora. Other parts of Germany have sent no less -distinguished individuals in the persons of Prince Maximilian of -Bavaria, and the great naturalists, Narterer, Spix, and von Martius, all -of whom have given to the scientific world the result of their -explorations in works of enduring fame. France ranks next in -distinguished names, such as La Condamine, D’Orvigni, Jussieu, St. -Hilaire, Bonpland (the companion of Humboldt), Depons, Lavayesse, -Webber, Liais, etc.; and Great Britain, with her Parishes and Fitzroys, -who surveyed and carefully sounded every estuary, bay, and inlet which -lie between the Plata and the Bay of Valparaiso, with the celebrated -naturalist, Darwin, as co-laborer; Sir Robert Schumbourgh, the -discoverer of that vegetable wonder, the Victoria Regia, and the -hitherto unknown sources of the great river Orinoco, the lake of Parime, -supposed in the seventeenth century to be the abode of a mighty and -resplendent Indian king—El Dorado—the gilded, from whom that veritable -land of gold, as it has subsequently been demonstrated, took the -name<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>—with other equally enterprising naturalists and explorers, such -as Waterton, Wallace, Bates, Vigne, Markham, and Spruce. Through the -efforts of the two last named, England has succeeded in transplanting -and successfully cultivating<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiv" id="page_xiv"></a>{xiv}</span> in the mountains of India the various -species of cinchona trees indigenous to the Andean range of mountains, -that yield that invaluable drug, quinine; while another enterprising -Englishman undertook to stock Australia with the Alpaca sheep of the -same region, at the risk of his life and fortune.</p> - -<p>Thus England, France, and Germany have secured the monopoly of the South -American trade, with total exclusion of this country, which has to pay -<i>cash</i> for what the former obtain in exchange for the produce of their -manufactories. All these nations, moreover, appoint permanent -representatives, chosen from among their ablest diplomats, and keep them -there as long as they choose to remain, to enable them to become -thoroughly acquainted with the people and the peculiarities of the -country, endearing themselves to the inhabitants by their munificent -hospitality and courtly demeanor. Even distant and snow-bound Russia has -sent to South America her commissions of <i>savants</i> and maintains there, -as well as Sweden, competent representatives, whose duty it is to report -to their respective governments on the progress of affairs and the -resources of those countries.</p> - -<p>I shall not close the list of European travellers and naturalists, with -whom I am acquainted, without adding those of Holland and Belgium, viz., -Mr. Langsberg, for many years Minister Plenipotentiary from the former -country to Venezuela, Baron Ponthos, and Messrs. Linden and Funk, who, -by their united efforts, have contributed to enlighten their countrymen -respecting the source from whence India-rubber emanates, and the kind of -trees that yield the valuable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xv" id="page_xv"></a>{xv}</span> Calisaya and Angostura barks; what plants -yield the fragrant Vanilla and Tonka beans, the healing balsams of -Copaiva, Tolu, and Peru; and how indigo, cacao, and coffee are raised. -“Does cotton grow in Venezuela?” “Are there any railroads in Chile?” are -questions which have respectively been addressed to me and to the -accredited Minister of the latter flourishing republic to the United -States by persons enjoying the greatest advantages of education in this -country. Now, it is a well-known fact to European merchants that the -cotton raised in Venezuela ranks among the finest in the world; and as -regards railroads, Chile possesses some of the most admirable works of -the kind, due to the skill of North American engineers.</p> - -<p>But no wonder that so little is known here about South America, when one -of the standard School Geographies and most recent publications -describes the products of Venezuela in these few lines:</p> - -<p>“Its principal products are the <i>woods</i> and <i>fruits</i> of the forest and -the <i>cattle</i> of the plains.”</p> - -<p>“Exports.—The principal exports are the <i>tropical fruits</i>, which grow -without cultivation; and hides, cattle, horses, and mules.”</p> - -<p>Any one would be led to suppose, from the perusal of the above -quotations, that the country at large is “in a state of nature,” and -that the inhabitants themselves are no better off than “the cattle of -the plains,”</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Where at each step the stranger fears to wake<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And savage men more murderous still than they.”<br /></span> -<span class="i10">—<i>The Deserted Village.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xvi" id="page_xvi"></a>{xvi}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">These things are only found in the depths of the primeval forest, or -amidst the labyrinths of rivers that traverse the vast extent of prairie -land or <i>llanos</i> which form the subject of this book. These are the -grazing grounds as well as military school of the republic: the -agricultural portion lies north of this region, amidst the great chain -of mountains, which, detaching itself from the main Andean trunk in New -Granada, or Colombia, as it is now called, runs eastward along the -shores of the Caribbean Sea. The products of this region consist -principally, as the school-book quoted above states, in the tropical -fruits, not collected at random, as might be inferred from the above -meager statement, but through the most careful cultivation, as a -contemporary English traveller in that country rightly describes it in a -few lines.</p> - -<p>“July 11th.—Having got our passports, we started at about 3 P.M. for -San Pedro, distant about six leagues. The first three leagues lay -through the beautiful valley of Chacao (Caracas). Everything bore the -appearance of great prosperity. The road was as good as any in Europe. -The hedges were beautifully clipped; hardly a foot of ground could be -seen that was not in a high state of cultivation. The plantations were -numerous and in good order, and the long chimneys and black smoke showed -that even in this remote valley steam was rendering its thousand-handed -assistance. We crossed and recrossed the Rio Guaire several times before -we arrived at Antimano, some two leagues distant from Caracas. We met -several herds of wild cattle, being driven towards Caracas by the -llaneros in crimson or blue ponchos, mounted on high-picked saddles, -with their constant companion, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xvii" id="page_xvii"></a>{xvii}</span> lasso, plaited into their horses’ -tails, and the long cattle-spears in their hands. The cattle were -magnificent-looking animals, and reminded me of the breed that one sees -in the bull-rings of old Spain. Coffee is more cultivated in the valley -of Chacao than any other crop, and it contributes in no small degree to -the beauty of the scenery.”<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> - -<p>Besides coffee this country produces the famous <i>Cacao</i> and indigo of -Caracas, sugar-cane, and cotton of superior quality, tobacco hardly -inferior to that of Cuba, especially the celebrated Varinas and Guacharo -kinds, rice, Indian-corn, and most of the cereals of northern latitudes, -according to the elevation above the sea level; and as to the products -gathered “in a state of nature,” such as sarsaparilla, India-rubber, -Piassaba, Vanilla, and Tonka beans, cabinet and dye-woods, their name is -legion, and would require a separate volume devoted to that particular -branch of scientific research, which the reader can find admirably -compiled in the works of Humboldt and Bonpland, St. Hilaire, Sir Robert -Schombourgh, Codazzi, and others.</p> - -<p>Now it is my purpose to introduce the young American reader to a -country—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Where maidens’ love as close, as sweet will twine,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">As cling the tendrils of their native vine,”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and which hitherto seems to have been a sealed book to the future -“Merchant Princes” of the great North. Humboldt describes it thus, in -1802:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xviii" id="page_xviii"></a>{xviii}</span></p> - -<h3>VENEZUELA.</h3> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">Caracas</span> is the capital of a country nearly twice as large as Peru, and -now little inferior in extent to the kingdom of New Granada. This -country, which the Spanish government designates by the name of -Capitania-General de Caracas, or the United Provinces of Venezuela, has -nearly a million of inhabitants, among whom are sixty thousand slaves. -It comprises, along the coasts, New Andalusia, or the province of Cumana -(with the island of Margarita), Barcelona, Venezuela, or Caracas, Coro, -and Maracaibo: in the interior the Provinces of Barinas and Guiana; the -former situated on the rivers of Santo Domingo and the Apure, the latter -stretching along the Orinoco, the Casiquiare, the Atabapo, and the Rio -Negro. In a general view of the seven United Provinces of Tierra Firme, -we perceive that they form three distinct zones, extending from East to -West.</p> - -<p>“We find, first, cultivated land along the sea-shore, and near the chain -of the mountains on the coast; next, savannas or pasturages; and -finally, beyond the Orinoco, a third zone, that of the forests, into -which we can penetrate only by the rivers which traverse them. If the -native inhabitants of the forest lived entirely on the produce of the -chase, like those of the Missouri, we might say that the three zones, -into which we have divided the territory of Venezuela, picture the three -states of human society; the life of the wild hunter, in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xix" id="page_xix"></a>{xix}</span> woods of -the Orinoco; pastoral life in the savannas or llanos, and the -agricultural state, in the high valleys, and at the foot of the -mountains on the coast.”<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<p>And yet this favored region can be reached in from twelve to fifteen -days by sailing packets between Philadelphia and La Guaira; or, should -your <i>fast</i> habits require it, we can avail ourselves of the Brazilian -line of steamships which will leave us at St. Thomas, where we shall -meet the little steamer plying regularly between both points, the whole -voyage being thus accomplished in eight days. As we are not in a hurry, -however, to get through our journey, we will, for the sake of -convenience and diversified amusement, follow the example of the -above-mentioned traveller, Sullivan, who, in company of a friend, made -the trip before us in a commodious yacht by the way of the West India -Islands; but having no craft of our own, we may be permitted to borrow -from the New York yacht squadron one of their idle cutters, which can -thus be better employed than in cruising round well-known fashionable -retreats during a few months of summer, and exposed for the rest of the -year to the hard knocks of a wintry climate. This is the best season to -visit the tropics, as well as the West Indies, when there is no fear of -the dreaded <i>vomito</i> or sweeping hurricanes.</p> - -<p>Hardly a day passes without coming in sight of some lovely isle of the -Caribbean sea, which, like the “Queen of the Antilles,”—Cuba—rises -from amidst the placid waves, crowned with perpetual wreaths of fragrant -orange-blossoms<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xx" id="page_xx"></a>{xx}</span> and stately palms. Cuba, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, -Sta. Cruz, Antigua, Granada, Barbadoes, Martinique, Guadaloupe, Tobago, -and Trinidad, rise one after another in quick succession. When we reach -the last named and most lovely of all, on the eastern extremity of -Venezuela, we have the choice of either penetrating at once into the -field of our adventures by entering one of the numerous outlets of the -Orinoco, which here pours out its tribute to the mighty Atlantic through -a hundred mouths; or, following the line of coast to the westward, we -may reach a point near the fertile valleys of Aragua, where well-trained -horses for the sport and hardy llaneros to guide us, await our arrival. -We shall thus have an opportunity of contemplating and admiring that -stupendous chain of mountains (fit offspring of the mighty Andes further -west), which seems as if thrown up by Titanic force as a barrier against -the encroachments of the fierce Atlantic.</p> - -<p>Endless are the beauties and points of interest presented by this -splendid chain of mountains; its varied climes, from the scorching heats -of the <i>tierra caliente</i> on the sea level to the frigid blasts of winter -at higher elevations; its silvery springs and roaring cataracts; its -unrivalled vegetation and glittering veins of precious metals. The trade -winds and currents are in our favor, which will enable us to reach La -Guaira in a couple of days, passing in quick succession some minor -ports, such as Rio Caribe, Carupano, with its silver-bearing mountains -in the distance, the island of Margarita, famous for its pearls, as the -name implies; its fisheries, and the gallant defence made by the -inhabitants against the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxi" id="page_xxi"></a>{xxi}</span> combined attacks of the Spanish hordes; Cumana, -for its delicious grapes and pine-apples, its salubrious climate, and -the purity of the sky, which enabled the immortal Humboldt to watch in -wonderment the great meteoric shower in 1799, which he compared to a -brilliant display of fire-works; Barcelona, noted only for its hides, -and the Monagas brotherhood, who were for many years the terror of the -country.</p> - -<p>The coast, as we approach La Guaira, is lined with plantations of -sugar-cane, cacao and cocoa-nuts, two articles often confounded in -English spelling, but widely different in themselves. The former grows -on a moderately-sized tree, with large, glossy leaves, while the latter -is the product of a palm, remarkable for the height it attains, and the -prodigious size of its fruit, in bunches that few men can lift from the -ground. The <i>cacao</i> nuts, on the contrary, grow in pods, resembling -large cucumbers, of a rich chocolate color outside, filled with oblong -nuts enveloped in a white, sub-acid pulp, very agreeable to the taste -especially of parrots, monkeys, and squirrels, who destroy great -quantities of the pods for the sake of the pulp, so that they require -constant watching to protect them from these pests.</p> - -<p>A cacao plantation is one of the handsomest orchards that can be seen, -shaded as they are by another tree of large proportions, the erythrina, -a leguminous plant with crimson flowers, which you may have noticed in -greenhouses at home, though much reduced in size, as it never attains -there more than a few feet above the boxes on which they are raised as -an ornament to the garden in summer. The rapidity with which these trees -grow in the tropics is astonishing, for in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxii" id="page_xxii"></a>{xxii}</span> eight or ten years, the time -required to reach its maximum growth, they attain the size of the -largest denizens of the forest. Observe how their tops glow with the -fiery hue of their blossoms, for this is the season when they exchange -their leaves for flowers, the only instance of a plant shedding its -leaves in these latitudes, with the exception of the <i>ceiba</i> or silk -cotton tree, which the author of Amyas Leigh has so admirably described -as growing close to where we are journeying just now.</p> - -<p>Here the cordillera rises considerably above the connecting mountains, -attaining a height of thirteen thousand feet in the peak of Naiguata, -which you may perceive peeping through the clouds yonder, and the next -one eleven thousand in the Cerro de Avila, both forming what is called -the Silla, or Saddle of Caracas, at the foot of which stands La Guaira, -the principal port of the republic, but the vilest anchorage in the -world. Here ends our yacht excursion; trusting in future to the -nimble-footed mule or to the thumping stage coaches for the rest of the -journey.</p> - -<p>Despite its wretched shipping facilities, La Guaira carries on a very -active trade with foreign marts, as is attested by the number of -English, French, German, and Italian merchants, with a few Americans, -residing here, forming, as it were a truly foreign colony. The heat, as -you perceive, is intense, owing to the proximity of the barren -mountain-base, which leaves room scarcely for a loaded mule to turn -round in the narrow and crowded-up streets. On this account, I presume, -La Guaira is very healthy, for not even the Asiatic cholera could obtain -a <i>footing</i> here—excuse the pun—when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxiii" id="page_xxiii"></a>{xxiii}</span> it decimated the capital in -1853. Cases of <i>vomito</i> occur from time to time; but these are more the -exception than the rule; so it does not follow that all hot places in -the tropics are unhealthy, for Carupano, Margarita, Cumana, La Guaira, -and Coro, which are within the isothermal line of greatest heat—owing, -doubtless, to the dry, stony, or sandy soil on which they stand—are -among the healthiest spots in Venezuela. However, we shall soon be out -of this sultry place, and amidst the glories of a temperate climate. For -this purpose we will hire mules at one of the <i>posadas</i> or hotels, to -ascend the mountains on our way to Caracas, the capital of the republic, -giving the preference to the <i>old road</i>, which is much shorter and more -picturesque than the new one for carriage travel. Let us hear first the -enthusiastic English tourist describe this route, as I may be accused by -some of partiality towards my own country.</p> - -<p>“The ascent is very precipitous, and the road rough and narrow, but the -view of the boundless ocean on one hand, and the magnificent range of -mountains on the other, was very grand. The road rather reminded me of -the Great St. Bernard, though the resemblance would not bear analyzing. -The sensation of rising gradually into the cooler strata of air was most -delicious; and at length, being suddenly enveloped in a cloud, I felt -actually cold (a novel sensation I had not experienced for several -months), and was not at all sorry to put on my jacket. There is no -mountain in the tropics where you rise as immediately and suddenly from -the stifling heat of the Tierra Caliente to the delicious temperature of -an European sunrise in spring, as the Silla of Caracas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxiv" id="page_xxiv"></a>{xxiv}</span></p> - -<p>“On the road from Vera Cruz to Mexico, when the traveller arrives at the -height of four thousand feet, beyond which the fever never spreads, he -is upwards of thirty miles from the sea, whereas, on the road up the -Silla at that height the ocean lies immediately at his feet, and he -looks down upon it as from a tower. So perpendicular is the face of the -Silla towards the sea, that any large <i>boulder</i> or mass of rock becoming -detached high up the mountain and bounding down its face, would fall -clean into the ocean. About half way up the mountain, we crossed a deep -cleft in the mountain called the Salto—a jump—on rather a rickety old -draw-bridge. The bridge is commanded by a ruinous old town, called Torre -Quemada, or the Burnt Tower, a name it derives from its being placed -just at the height where the traveller, descending to La Guaira, first -encounters the stifling exhalations from the Tierra Caliente. About nine -o’clock we stopped to breakfast at La Venta, an inn some five thousand -feet above La Guaira. Here, in a perfectly European atmosphere, we lay -out in the grass, and gazed down upon the ocean and the town of La -Guaira; we could just distinguish the <i>Ariel</i>, looking the size of a -walnut-shell, hoisting her white sail, and standing away for Porto -Cabello, where we were to meet her, unless we returned to Trinidad <i>via</i> -the Rio Apure and the Orinoco.”</p> - -<p>Both sides of the road are lined with <i>Maguey</i> plants, or varieties of -the Agave genus, improperly called <i>aloes</i> and <i>century-plants</i>, from a -mistaken notion that they only blossom once in a hundred years. The most -beautiful of these is the <i>cocuy</i>, with thick glossy leaves of a clear -emerald color, from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxv" id="page_xxv"></a>{xxv}</span> six to eight feet, and a flower-stock from -twenty-five to thirty feet in length. I believe it is the same species -that yields the famous beverage of the Mexicans, called pulque, which -some compare to fermented animal juices. A much more agreeable drink is -obtained here by distillation from this plant, and its leaves turned to -better account by scraping out the fine fibres they contain, from which -most beautiful hammocks are made in various parts of the country, -besides ropes, coffee-bags, twine, etc., etc. A fortune is in store for -some Yankee genius who will invent the proper machine for dressing these -leaves and getting the fibres. The other varieties are the <i>cocuiza -brava</i>, or common century-plant (Agave Americana), with serrated leaves, -on which account it is very useful for making hedges, and the <i>cocuiza -dulce</i>, with perfectly smooth leaves, containing the strongest fibres -and usually cultivated for that purpose. The pith of the flower-stock is -also turned to account in various ways, especially for making the best -kind of razor-strops.</p> - -<p>Were you as much a lover of plants as I am, I would invite you to -descend with me to one of those lovely glens formed by these mountains. -There, amid moss-covered rocks and sparkling rivulets, I would point out -to you those singular orchidacœous plants usually called air-plants, -because they obtain their nourishment from the moist air that surrounds -them,—not a bad idea,—those lovely daughters of Flora and Favonius, so -rich in perfume as well as color, but whose principal charm consists in -their caricaturing most living objects in nature, from the “human form -divine,” as in <i>man-orchis</i> (O. mascula) to the bumble-bee, often -deceived by a perfect<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxvi" id="page_xxvi"></a>{xxvi}</span> representation of his species (Ophris apifera). -Thus we count among our floral treasures “angels,” “swans,” “doves,” -“eagles,” “pelicans,” “spiders,” “butterflies,” “bumble-bees,” and even -a perfect infant in its cradle, was found by Linden in the mountains of -Merida. The celebrated <i>Flor del Espiritu Santo</i> (Peristeria elata) is -another of this class. It is there only that are found those two most -beautiful species of cattleya (C. Mossiæ and C. Labiata), so highly -prized by plant collectors, from all nations, and here called <i>Flor de -Mayo</i>, or Mayflower, because it blossoms principally in the month of -May. Great favorites are they with us also, and no court-yard is deemed -sufficiently ornamented at Caracas without one or more <i>baskets</i> of -these lovely plants, the stump of a tree, or any rustic basket filled -with bark or moss, being sufficient support for them. In the same manner -the curious Butterfly-flower (Oncidium papillio) is raised along with -the others, often deceiving persons unacquainted with it, with a perfect -representation of the insect whose name it bears; and if you should -visit with me some of the <i>cacao</i> plantations in the tierra caliente, I -would point out to you two equally exquisite plants of the same family -attached to the rough stems and branches of the Erythrina, namely, the -Swan-flower (Cycnoches ventricosum) and the Vanilla, both filling the -air with the same perfume, but in different form, the former through its -swan-like flowers, in clusters of three, five, and even seven, and the -latter through its ripened pods—so well known to perfumers and -confectioners—as the blossoms of this last, though quite large and -handsome, are destitute of perfume.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxvii" id="page_xxvii"></a>{xxvii}</span></p> - -<p>But to return to our mountain ride, for it is time that we should be -prepared to behold a still more glorious view from the summit, than the -one just described by Sullivan: “After a regular Spanish breakfast of -chocolate and fried eggs, for which, in as regular Spanish custom, we -were charged about ten times the proper amount, we continued our ascent, -and gained the seat of the Saddle, a hollow between the two peaks, -called the Pummel and Croup,<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> about ten o’clock. The summit of the -pass called Las Vueltas, is a smooth undulating grass-land, somewhat -like the sheep-downs of Sussex. The bold rocky peaks on either hand, -stretching in a serrated ridge as far as the eye could reach, were very -fine. I could scarcely fancy myself to be only ten degrees north of the -equator, and actually on or rather only eight thousand feet above the -isothermal line of greatest heat, which passes through Cartagena, La -Guaira, and Cumana.</p> - -<p>“We had left far below us all the tropical flora, and were amongst -English ferns and English blackberries; and I actually discovered one -familiar friend, a dandelion. From the summit of Las Vueltas, you first -get a magnificent view of the valley of Chacao, lying some four thousand -feet below you, with the city of Caracas in the centre of it. I don’t -think the view from that height is so fine as some thousand feet lower -down, where it certainly beats any view I have ever seen. It is finer in -my opinion than the first <i>coup d’œil</i> of the Vega and city of -Granada<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxviii" id="page_xxviii"></a>{xxviii}</span> from the Ultimo Suspiro del Moro, where the degenerate Boabdil -el Chico, both in mind and body, turned to take one last fond look at -the luxurious abode of his chivalric ancestors and wept bitterly, though -too late, at his own cowardice and duplicity, which had almost without a -blow surrendered to the “curs of Nazareth” the splendid heritage of -nearly seven centuries, and which was never but in imagination to return -to the true sons of the Prophet. It is also finer than the Valley of -Chamouni or Martigny, from the Tête Noire, but I think it bears more -resemblance to the Vega of Granada.”</p> - -<p>Observe how regularly laid out, at right angles to each other, the -streets are; the area of the city is great for the number of inhabitants -(sixty thousand), most of the houses being built one story high, and -occupying in consequence a large space, on account of the earthquakes, -which are of frequent occurrence all along the Andean range. As we -approach the suburbs, you may notice some of the ruins still remaining -of that dreadful catastrophe, which, in 1812, levelled this beautiful -city to the ground, burying beneath the <i>débris</i> twelve thousand of the -inhabitants, just as they had assembled in the magnificent churches of -that time to render homage to the day, Holy Thursday. Since then the -city has been rebuilt, it is to be hoped on more solid basis.</p> - -<p>Caracas claims the honor of having given birth to several distinguished -individuals, among others to Bolívar and Miranda, two of the greatest -champions of South American independence; to Rosio, the Jefferson of -Venezuela;</p> - -<p><a name="ill_2" id="ill_2"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-a028a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-a028a_sml.jpg" width="389" height="266" alt="Image unavailable: CARACAS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CARACAS.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxix" id="page_xxix"></a>{xxix}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">to Andres Bello, a great poet and publicist; and to the eminent surgeon -and physician, Dr. Vargas, one of the Presidents of the Republic.</p> - -<p>The climate of Caracas has often been called a perpetual spring. “What -can we conceive to be more delightful than a temperature which in the -day keeps between 20° and 26°,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> and at night between 16° and 18°, -which is equally favorable to the plantain, the orange tree, the coffee -tree, the apple, the apricot, and corn? José de Oviedo y Baños, the -historiographer of Venezuela, calls the situation of Caracas that of a -terrestrial paradise, and compares the Anauco and the neighboring -torrents to the four rivers of the Garden of Eden.”<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> - -<p>The hotels, Sullivan describes as being as good as any in Europe. “You -might travel from one end of Old Spain to the other without finding -anything to be compared to them, either as regards cleanliness or the -civility of the landlords.” But as here I am <i>at home</i>, you are most -cordially invited to our mansion at the end of the Calle del Comercio, -where you may verify for yourself the truth of the statements concerning -the climate and productions of this fertile valley. We may at once enter -the garden, which occupies nearly the whole square, where, after our -rough ride, we can refresh ourselves with the fruits of the season.</p> - -<p>Here, as you perceive, you find growing side by side the refreshing -orange and the luscious apple, the pomegranate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxx" id="page_xxx"></a>{xxx}</span> and the peach; the -banana, the citron, the guava, the sapodilla, and papaw tree, all of -them eminently tropical fruits, with the pear, the grape-vine, and other -productions of temperate regions. Unsurpassed by any, not even by the -famous Mangosteen of the Spicy Islands, you have here the delicious -Chirimoya, or cherimoyer, as pronounced by Anglo-Saxons, and which I can -only liken to lumps of flavored cream ready to be frozen, suspended from -the branches of some fairy tree amidst the most overpowering perfume of -its flowers; for it is in bearing all the year round, as indeed are most -of the fruit trees you see about this garden, and consequently you may -at all times enjoy the advantage of refreshing the inner as well as the -outer man with a “wilderness of sweets.” Markham,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> who has tasted -both the chirimoya and mangosteen in their native habitat, gives the -preference decidedly to the former, and says of it: “He who has not -tasted the chirimoya fruit has yet to learn what fruit is.” “The -pineapple, the mangosteen and the chirimoya,” says Dr. Seeman, “are -considered the finest fruits in the world. I have tasted them in those -localities in which they are supposed to attain their highest -perfection—the pineapple in Guayaquil, the mangosteen in the Indian -Archipelago, and the chirimoya on the slope of the Andes, and if I were -called upon to act the part of a Paris, I would without hesitation -assign the apple to the chirimoya. Its taste indeed surpasses that of -every other fruit, and Haenke was quite right when he called it the -masterpiece of nature.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxi" id="page_xxxi"></a>{xxxi}</span>”</p> - -<p>The numerous varieties of hot-house grapes, which in your variable -climate of the north require so much skill and attention to perfect -their growth, here thrive without the least care, and the vines which -you see struggling here and there among the trees for some kind of -support, proceed from <i>cuttings</i> which I brought over six years ago from -one of the best regulated establishments in Connecticut.</p> - -<p>Here, too, the stately Mauritia-palm of the Orinoco, the date-palm of -the burning Sahara, the royal-palm of Cuba (Oredoxa Regia), and the -oil-palm of Africa (Eleis guinensis) commingle their majestic crowns -with the dense foliage of the mango tree of India, the aromatic cinnamon -tree of Ceylon, the bread-fruit tree of Otaheite, and the sombre pines -and cypress of northern regions, forming the most effective protection -to the shade-loving magnolia and the delicate violet of your native -woods.</p> - -<p>Swarms of tiny and brilliant humming-birds flutter amid masses of -highly-scented orange blossoms that perfume the air around us. Any one -unacquainted with that <i>bijou</i> of the feathered tribe, would mistake it -at first sight for some of the metallic-colored beetles which dispute -with them the nectar of the fragrant flowers, so brilliant is the lustre -shed by both. “For that peculiar charm which resides in flashing light -combined with the most brilliant colors, the lustre of precious stones, -there are no birds, no creatures that can compare with the -humming-birds. Confined exclusively to America—whence we have already -gathered between three and four hundred distinct species, and more are -continually discovered—these lovely little<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxii" id="page_xxxii"></a>{xxxii}</span> winged gems were to the -Mexican and Peruvian Indians the very quintessence of beauty. By these -simple people they were called by various names, signifying ‘the rays of -the sun,’ ‘the tresses of the day-star,’ and the like.”<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> - -<p>You may have noticed in your conservatories at home a well known creeper -called the passion-flower, on account of a fancied similarity in the -arrangement of its inflorescence with the instruments of torture -employed in the martyrdom of the Saviour, such as the crown of thorns, -the three nails, the hammer, and even the spots of sacred blood round -the pillar of agony. The plants of this genus are general favorites with -northern horticulturists only on account of the beauty and delicious -aroma of their flowers, for they bear no fruit with you; but here, this -constitutes their principal merit, especially that of the <i>granadilla</i>, -which you may perceive intertwining its graceful vines amongst yonder -arbor set up for its support. Huge watermelon-like fruits hang from its -delicate tendrils as if suspended by a thread; cut open one of them; you -will find it filled with a nectarian juice, which, when crushed in the -mouth, regale your palate with the compound flavor of the strawberry and -the peach. Other varieties of passion-flower—of which there are many -though less pretentious in size than the granadilla—bear fruit equally -rich in flavor. Unfortunately, not all fructify in the same locality, as -they require different degrees of temperature, and maybe of atmospheric -pressure, also, to ripen their fruit, which they cunningly obtain for -themselves by “squatting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxiii" id="page_xxxiii"></a>{xxxiii}</span>” of their own accord higher up or lower down -the mountains, as the case may be.</p> - -<p>I could still point out to you many other delicious fruits in this -garden were they in season, such as the <i>tuna</i> or Indian-fig, borne by -the nopal, a species of cactus, on the fleshy, downy stems of which the -cochineal insect is reared for those most valuable crimson and scarlet -dyes “which far outshine the vaunted productions of ancient Tyre;” and -the <i>pitahaya</i>, of the same family of plants, notable for the size and -effulgence of its flowers. “It begins to open as the sun declines, and -is in full expanse throughout the night, shedding a delicious fragrance, -and offering its brimming goblet, filled with nectarious juice, to -thousands of moths, and other crepuscular and nocturnal insects. When -the moon is at the full in those cloudless nights whose loveliness is -only known in the tropics, the broad blossom is seen as a circular dish -nearly a foot in diameter, very full of petals, of which the outer -series are of a yellowish hue, gradually paling to the centre, where -they shine in the purest white. The numerous recumbent stamens surround -the style, which rises in the midst like a polished shaft, the whole -growing in its silvery beauty under the moonbeams, from the dark and -matted foliage, and diffusing its delicious clove-like fragrance so -profusely that the air is loaded with it for furlongs round.”<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> - -<p>I well remember one night when a distinguished foreigner, General -Devereux, who rendered the patriot cause so marked a service by bringing -over the Irish Legion to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxiv" id="page_xxxiv"></a>{xxxiv}</span> assist this country in her struggle for -independence, honored me with a visit while keeping bachelor’s hall in -this—to me then—earthly paradise. The Queen of Night was shining in -all her glory, and the air redolent with the perfume of many exquisite -flowers, among others that of the pitahaya just described, while the -stillness that reigned around the spot, added to my youthful dreams of -fairy lands I had lately visited across the seas, made me feel a -particular pride about our mansion in the capital. Although the old hero -was perfectly blind—as will be recollected by many who knew him in the -United States where he resided afterwards—I could not resist the wish -to invite him to take a stroll about the garden. As we passed close to -the flowers of the pitahaya, the gallant old soldier stopped suddenly, -and seizing me by the hand with an emotion that made me feel the deepest -sympathy for the blind man, said: “How happy you must be here, my young -friend, surrounded as you are by plants that shed such heavenly -perfume!” But when we passed a bower of English honeysuckles, which was -my special favorite, as I had planted it with my own hands, his emotions -were indeed those of a man who felt as though everything on earth was -lost to him—sweet home, friendly associations, the world itself in -fact, and that he was only a wandering spirit in a strange sphere.</p> - -<p>This, my good companion, reminds me too that such, more or less, is my -own situation in this my native land, subject as it has been for years -to political convulsions more disastrous to the peacefully inclined, -than those subterranean fires which agitate the soil from time to time. -Therefore<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxv" id="page_xxxv"></a>{xxxv}</span> our rambles in the capital must be of short duration, and -following the route already pointed out by the traveller Sullivan, we -will proceed on our journey towards the fertile valley of Aragua, -stopping for the night at Las Adjuntas, a village delightfully situated -at the foot of another lofty range of mountains which separates this -from that of Caracas, near the junction of two mountain streams that -form the Rio Guaire which passes near the capital.</p> - -<p>Should you ever be troubled with nervousness or dyspepsia from too close -application to business, or even be threatened with that more serious -complaint of cold climates, consumption, don’t let your Doctor bother -you with physic, nor delude yourself with a trip “down South,” Cuba, or -even Europe; all this may at best prolong a miserable existence a little -longer; instead of that, come here at once; bring plenty of books to -while away the <i>dolce far niente</i> of this quiet place; or if you are a -sportsman, your gun and fishing tackle; when sufficiently convalescent -to undergo the fatigues of the journey, buy or hire horses for yourself -and a good <i>peon</i> or guide, and start for the <i>llanos</i>, where you will -have to rough it out as I did some years ago, and I guarantee you a -radical cure.</p> - -<p>At Las Adjuntas we have the choice of two roads, one for carriages, made -at great cost since Sullivan’s visit to the country, and the other one -right over the mountains; as this is by far the most picturesque of the -two and the one described by him, we will follow on his footsteps, if -you wish to enjoy the glorious scenery, of which he says;</p> - -<p>“Next morning, at 3 <small>A.M.</small>, our faithful mozo roused us,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxvi" id="page_xxxvi"></a>{xxxvi}</span>—at San -Pedro—and we found our mules already saddled. The morning was very -cold, and a cloak was by no means disagreeable. As far as I could make -out by the light of a most glorious moon, San Pedro must be a very -picturesque and flourishing village. We continued ascending through a -thickly-wooded, mountainous path, for about three hours, when we found -ourselves along the summit of the mountain, here called Las Cocuizas. -Here the scenery was truly magnificent. The road wound along the summit -of the Sierra, giving alternate views of the valley of the Tuy, with the -distant valley of Aragua on the one hand, and the valley of Ocumare -bounded the snow-capped mountains that separate the valleys from the -plains on the other. Out of the main valleys narrow little glens wind, -and nestle up into the mountains, till lost to view. Their rounded -sides, and the emerald brilliancy of nature’s carpet with which they -were clothed, reminded me of some of the glens of the Cheviots.</p> - -<p>“That morning’s moonlight ride along the summits of the sierra of Las -Cocuizas was certainly one of the most enjoyable I ever remember. It was -almost like magic, when as the sun began to approach the horizon, the -perfect stillness of the forests beneath was gradually broken by the -occasional note of some early riser of the winged inhabitants, till at -length, as the day itself began to break, the whole forest seemed to be -suddenly warmed into life, sending forth choir after choir of -gorgeous-plumaged songsters, each after his own manner, to swell the -chorus of greeting—a discordant one, I fear it must be owned—to the -glorious sun; and when the morning light enabled you to see down<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxvii" id="page_xxxvii"></a>{xxxvii}</span> into -the misty valleys beneath, there were displayed to our enchanted gaze -zones of fertility embracing almost every species of tree and flower -that flourishes between the Tierra Caliente and the regions of perpetual -snow. It certainly was a view of almost unequalled magnificence. We were -riding amongst apple and peach trees that might have belonged to an -English orchard, and on whose branches we almost expected to see the -blackbird and the chaffinch; while a few hundred yards below, parrots -and macaws, monkeys and mocking-birds were sporting among the palms and -tree-ferns of a tropical climate. I consider that this view alone would -repay any lover of fine scenery for all the troubles and risks of -crossing the Atlantic, for I do not know where one to be compared with -it is to be found in Europe.”</p> - -<p>This mountain takes the name of Las Cocuizas from the abundance of Agave -plants growing here, and which impart such peculiar aspect to the -landscape as we descend towards the bed of the Tuy, at the foot of the -mountain. Here we must stop to breakfast and pass the sun before we -proceed on our journey along the Tierra Caliente not far from our -resting-place.</p> - -<p>“We found the pretty village of Las Cocuizas,” proceeds Sullivan, -“situated at the entrance of a delicious little glen, down which warbled -the waters of the Tuy. The <i>Venta</i>, in fact nearly the whole village was -shaded by one enormous saman-tree,<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> which to the dusty and wearied -traveller gave it a most enticing appearance; neither did it disappoint -our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxviii" id="page_xxxviii"></a>{xxxviii}</span> expectations, for a cleaner room and a better breakfast better -cooked and better served, I never wish to taste. This venta at Las -Cocuizas is most enchantingly situated at the foot of the mountain and -at the entrance of the valley of the Tuy, which is there a mere glen; -one side is entirely shaded by this enormous tree, and the other -overhanging the Tuy, which with its rocky bed and thickly-wooded, -precipitous banks, reminded one very much of some of the tributaries of -the Tweed. The venta would be a charming place to stay at for a few -days’ angling in the Tuy, which I believe is very good.”</p> - -<p>After leaving the venta of Las Cocuizas, we wade through the waters of -the Tuy—no bridge being provided here—and proceed along a well graded -road for carts and carriages skirting the base of another ridge of -mountains until we reach the village of El Consejo, where the great -valley of Aragua, seventy miles in length, properly commences. And now -we are in the great coffee region, “the garden of Venezuela” as it is -very aptly called by common accord. As we ride towards the town of La -Victoria, where we shall stop for the night, we pass several extensive -plantations of that delicious shrub, shaded like the cacao by those -stupendous erythrinas which you might mistake for a primeval forest, -were it not for the uniformity of their growth and dazzling blossoms. -Nothing in your vaunted system of cultivation in the North can excel the -care bestowed upon these plantations, which must be kept in the best -order to yield handsome returns; but as we cannot stop to visit one of -these just now, you will permit me to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xxxix" id="page_xxxix"></a>{xxxix}</span> repeat what the traveller often -quoted before, says in regard to the region we are traversing:</p> - -<p>“The valleys of Aragua are the most thickly populated and the most -highly cultivated of all the districts of Venezuela. The level of the -valley is two thousand feet below the valley of Caracas, consequently -the heat much more intense. Coffee is now the chief article of -exportation from Venezuela, the fluctuating price of which has of late -years been very injurious to the country. The berry grown is of a -superior quality, and fetches a much better price than the Cuban or -Brazilian coffee, though not quite so high as that grown in Jamaica. -Some of the coffee and sugar estates we passed were on the largest -scale, employing as many as two hundred slaves,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> besides the same -number of laborers. A coffee plantation, either in blossom or when the -berry is ripe, is the most beautiful culture in the world. The plant -itself, with its regular shoots like a miniature tree, and red berries, -is one of the most graceful shrubs I know; and as between the rows of -coffee-trees they usually plant plantains and bananas, these with their -enormous clusters of yellow fruits and their leaves of some six or eight -feet in length, add greatly to the effect, and give the country the -appearance of a large fruit garden. Moreover, as it is necessary to -plant the mango, and other large fast-growing trees, to protect the -ripening berry from the deluging rains and scorching heats, whenever you -pass a coffee plantation, even in the hottest day in the midst of -summer, when the whole face of the country is parched up and of an -unhealthy brown<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xl" id="page_xl"></a>{xl}</span> color, the eye is continually refreshed by the cool, -verdant appearance of these shaded gardens.”</p> - -<p>I may add that the coffee of Venezuela is of various qualities, -according to whether it is raised in Tierra Caliente or Tierra Fria, <i>id -est</i>, coffee of the low, warm valleys, or coffee of mountainous -districts; this last is superior to the former, and bears in consequence -the highest price in the market. Again, <i>café trillado</i>, and <i>café -descerezado</i>, which means coffee dried in the berry as it is gathered, -and husked afterwards by a tread-mill composed of a heavy wooden wheel -revolving in a circular trough of masonry; and coffee deprived at once -of its pulpy covering by machinery as soon as it is picked, dried -afterwards in the sun upon extensive platforms of masonry called -<i>patios</i>, and passed through different sets of machinery to deprive the -grain or bean of the adhering shell and pellicle. The coffee thus -prepared is superior in quality to that which is <i>trillado</i> for want of -means on the part of the planter to put up the expensive works required -for this operation, and therefore bears a higher price.</p> - -<p>Interspersed with these plantations are others of no less importance to -the industry of these valleys, such as indigo, cotton, indian-corn, -wheat and tobacco, all of them requiring the same share of careful -cultivation and intelligent management. “The road we were following,” -continues Sullivan, “was so well kept and so well wooded, and the hedges -so neatly clipped, that I could hardly sometimes help fancying myself -riding down some country lanes in England. We followed one lime hedge, -which enclosed a coffee plantation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xli" id="page_xli"></a>{xli}</span> for upwards of two miles. It was -the most perfectly kept hedge I had seen in any country; it was four or -five feet high and about three feet thick, and throughout its whole -length, I don’t believe there was a single flaw through which a dog -could have forced its way. Several slaves were employed in trimming it. -In fact, in this climate, where the growth of all inanimate nature is -unceasing, and so rapid, it must employ several hands continually to -keep it in such beautiful order. The scent of the lime as we approached -it from some parched country we had been crossing previously, was most -delicious.”</p> - -<p>As there is nothing to interest us in the towns along this route, we -will pass by San Mateo, La Victoria and Turmero, all of them pleasantly -surrounded by plantations until we reach Maracay, the point of our -destination. On our way thither, we come up with that giant of the -vegetable world, the Saman de Güere, so well described by Humboldt in -his Travels, and subsequently by Sullivan. As their statements are -corroborative of the facts given elsewhere by me respecting these -enormous but most graceful mimosas, I will here use the language of the -last mentioned traveller about that of the hacienda de Güere.</p> - -<p>“Soon after leaving Turmero we caught sight of the far-famed Saman de -Güere, and in about an hour’s time arrived at the hamlet of Güere, from -whence it takes its name. It is supposed to be the oldest tree in the -world, for so great was the reverence of the Indians for it on account -of its age at the time of the Spanish conquest, that the Government -issued a decree for its protection from all injury, and it has<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xlii" id="page_xlii"></a>{xlii}</span> ever -since been public property. It shows no sign whatever of decay, but it -is as fresh and green as it was most probably a thousand years ago. The -trunk of this magnificent tree is only sixty feet high by thirty feet in -circumference, so that it is not so much the enormous size of the Saman -de Güere that constitutes its great attraction, as the wonderful spread -of its magnificent branches, and the perfect dome-like shape of its -head, which is so exact and regular, that one could almost fancy some -extinct race of giants had been exercising their topiarian art upon it. -The circumference of this dome is said to be nearly six hundred feet, -and the measure of its semicircular head very nearly as great. The saman -is a species of mimosa, and what is curious and adds greatly to its -beauty and softness is, that the leaves of this giant of nature are as -small and delicate as those of the silver willow, and are equally as -sensitive to every passing breeze.”</p> - -<p>And now for the most picturesque of all the towns on our long ride, -Maracay, not on account of any architectural display about its -buildings, for it has no pretensions of this kind, but for its many -gardens, each house being literally embowered in the choicest -productions of the tropics in the way of fruits, such as orange, lime -and lemon trees, both sweet and sour; caimito or star-apple, a creamy -and luscious fruit growing upon one of the most beautiful trees with -which I am acquainted; the same might be said of two other fruit-trees -cultivated in these gardens, the <i>mamon</i> and <i>cotopriz</i>; both bearing -great bunches of an oval fruit the size of a pigeon’s egg, olive-green -in the former,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xliii" id="page_xliii"></a>{xliii}</span> and bright yellow in the latter, containing a kernel -enveloped in a sweet, sub-acid pulp; bread-fruit trees of two kinds and -accordingly distinguished as <i>fruta de pan</i> and <i>pan de palo</i>, -bread-fruit and bread-tree—the former being a large pulpy and greenish -fruit very like an Osage orange but larger, containing great numbers of -chestnut-like seeds, which roasted or boiled taste very much like bread, -and the latter a fruit precisely like its congener in appearance, but -destitute of seeds, which assimilates it still more to the “staff of -life” when boiled or baked, for it is beautifully white and compact -inside.</p> - -<p>In addition to the foregoing, these gardens offer you a fine display of -other tropical trees no less esteemed for their grateful shade and their -delicious fruits, such as sapotes and sapodillas, both elegant in form -as well as in bearing; and so is also the splendid mamey apple-tree -(mamea Americana) bearing great quantities of large, round and heavy -fruits, brown outside, and golden-yellow within, from which marmalades -and other delicacies are made by the charming Maracayeras.</p> - -<p>The family to which the famous chirimoya belongs (anonaciæ) have also -three other representatives hardly inferior to that “master-piece of -nature,” viz.; the <i>guanábana</i> (anona muricata) or sour-sop—an ugly -name in English for such fine fruit—from which a most cooling drink is -made, and still finer ices; the custard-apple, which needs no further -explanation than its name to recommend it; and the <i>riñon</i>, (anona -squamosa) also a custardy kindney-like fruit, hence its name.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xliv" id="page_xliv"></a>{xliv}</span></p> - -<p>Butter being expensive, and difficult to keep in this climate, nature -has provided a substitute for it in the fruit of the fine tree (Persea -gratissima), consecrated, as the name implies, to Perseus, the son of -Jupiter and Danaë; thus showing the wisdom of the botanist over the less -cultivated English settlers of the Caribean islands, who call it -<i>alligator-pear</i>, I presume, from the fact of its being indigenous to a -country abounding in saurian reptiles, although I am of opinion that a -creature of this sort would rather prefer a more substantial morsel in -the shape of a fat Briton, to a fruit which is well adapted to the taste -of demigods. In shape it resembles a large pear, but the interior of its -rind is lined with a marrow-like substance of a yellowish color, which -assimilates very nearly to butter, the place of which it supplies at the -breakfast-table. It is, in fact, vegetable-butter, and many prefer it to -the ordinary kind.</p> - -<p>The extensive family of leguminous or pod-bearing trees also grace these -gardens with three additional members remarkable for fine foliage and -useful products, such as the <i>algarroba</i>, with hard-shelled pods, -containing a number of brown, round seeds or beans—also very hard, -enveloped in a farinaceous and very nutricious fecula; a fine aromatic -resin, good for varnishes, exudes from the trunk and branches of this -tree, and a still finer one can be extracted from its horny pericarp by -infusion in alcohol or other extractive medium; <i>guamos</i> (Inga) of -various kinds, with pellucid pods one and two feet in length, containing -a row of beans enveloped in white, cottony pulp, most grateful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xlv" id="page_xlv"></a>{xlv}</span> to the -taste; and the unrivalled tamarind, either as regards beauty of foliage, -brilliancy of blossoms, or the delicacy of its acidulous pulpy pods; -these are candied either in a green state or when fully ripe, affording -in the latter case a most refreshing drink to the fever-stricken in this -climate, when made into a decoction. In blossom, the tamarind-tree is -one of the most charming objects to behold, for amid its feathery, -dark-green foliage, somewhat similar to that of the hemlock, issues a -profusion of golden-yellow branches of delicate flowers, almost dazzling -to the eyes.</p> - -<p>The coco-palm, although far away from the sea-coast, its native habitat, -also flourishes in great perfection, contributing not a little to the -splendor of the vegetation in these truly tropical gardens, with its -glorious crown of monster leaves. And last, though not least, the -plantain and banana claim here the supremacy which everyone accords them -over all productions of the tropics. A few plants of each only are -sufficient to supply a whole family with bread, vegetables, fruit, and -preserves of various kinds. “We might be surprised,” observes Humboldt, -“at the small extent of these cultivated spots, if we did not recollect -that an acre planted with plantains produces nearly twenty times as much -food as the same space sown with corn. In Europe, our wheat, barley, and -rye cover vast spaces of ground; and in general the arable lands touch -each other whenever the inhabitants live upon corn. It is different -under the torrid zone, where man obtains food from plants which yield -more abundant and earlier harvests. In those favored climates the -fertility of the soil is proportioned to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xlvi" id="page_xlvi"></a>{xlvi}</span> the heat and humidity of the -atmosphere. An immense population finds abundant nourishment within a -narrow space covered with plantains, casava, yams, and maize.”<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p> - -<p>Well has the immortal bard of the Torrid Zone<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> sung the marvellous -exuberance of this plant in the following lines, which I regret to be -unable to translate.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Y para tí el banano,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Desmaya al peso de su dulce carga.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">El banano, primero<br /></span> -<span class="i0">De cuantos concedió bellos presentes<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Providencia à, las gentes<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Del Ecuador feliz con mano larga;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">No ya de humanas artes obligado<br /></span> -<span class="i0">El premio rinde opimo;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">No es á la podadera, no al arado,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Deudor de su racimo.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Escasa industria bástale cual puede<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Robar á sus fatigas mano esclava;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Crece veloz, y cuando exbausto acaba,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Adulta prole en torno le sucede.”<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i7"><i>Silva á la Zona Tórrida.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Water being abundant throughout these gardens by the provident care of -the inhabitants in bringing it in flowing streams from a great distance, -they present at all times of the year, even during the driest months of -summer, the perpetual spring-like verdure which constitutes their -principal charm. Not far from here is the fine lake of Tacarigua or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xlvii" id="page_xlvii"></a>{xlvii}</span> -Valencia, which by its gradual but marked evaporation, is constantly -adding to the already extensive area of fertile land nowhere to be found -like it in the wide world, and which doubtless extorted, even from an -Englishman, the following confession:</p> - -<p>“It is a great pity Venezuela is so much out of the high roads of -travel, and that the inconveniences, for Europeans, of getting at it, -are so great. It is, in my opinion, the most beautiful country, as -regards climate, scenery, and productions, in the world. The inhabitants -are intelligent, civil, and honest; and although there is no excessive -wealth in the country, there is, on the other hand, no great poverty, -and actual want is unknown, where beef can be procured to any amount for -a half penny a pound, and plantains and bananas almost for nothing. The -inns are excellent, and travelling perfectly safe. You may, on the sides -of its precipitous valleys, in a few hours, ascend from the productions -of the torrid zone to those of the frigid. You may, if you like, dine -off beefsteak and potatoes, cooled down with French claret or real -London stout; or, if you prefer it, you may, in imitation of Leo X. and -the Emperor Vitellius, feast your guests on joints of monkey and jaguar, -and have your <i>entremêts</i> of parrots’ tongues and humming-birds’ breasts -washed down with sparkling pulque, tapped from the graceful maguey -growing at your very door. In fact, there is no luxury you cannot enjoy -at a moderate expense. Servants are cheap; and you can buy a horse for -five shillings, though it will cost you fifteen to have him shod! The -shooting on the <i>llanos</i> and in the mountains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xlviii" id="page_xlviii"></a>{xlviii}</span> according to all -accounts, is very grand. The woods are filled with jaguar and ocelot, to -say nothing of snakes, and the plains with deer and wild cattle.</p> - -<p>“If any kind fairy were to offer me the sovereignty of any part of the -world out of Europe, with power to rule it as I choose, my choice would -certainly fall on Venezuela. I am fully convinced it only <i>wants a -government strong and stable enough to ensure the necessary protection -to capital and property</i>, to render it one of the most flourishing -countries in the world. I look back upon the few weeks I spent there as -amongst the most enjoyable I ever passed; and if ever any opportunity -was to offer of revisiting that delicious country, I should do so with -pleasure. Any traveller, wishing to judge for himself, has only to go by -the West India steamer to St. Thomas, where he meets the sailing-packet -for La Guaira, which he reaches in four or five days; and with a few -letters of introduction, or even without any, hospitality will meet him -on all hands, and he will never feel a moment hang heavy on his -hands.”<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p> - -<p>And now, seated under the refreshing foliage of these paradisaical -gardens, rather than expose you to the dangers of a demi-savage country, -I will recount to you the adventures of a former journey, and the -peculiarities of a still more wonderful region.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xlix" id="page_xlix"></a>{xlix}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_1">1.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#front">Frontispiece</a>—Map of Venezuela.</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_2">2.</a></td><td valign="top">Caracas,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_xxviii">xxviii</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_3">3.</a></td><td valign="top">Morros de San Juan,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_019">19</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_4">4.</a></td><td valign="top">The Llanos,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_026">26</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_5">5.</a></td><td valign="top">Pounding Corn,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_036">36</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_6">6.</a></td><td valign="top">Striped Catfish,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_061">61</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_7">7.</a></td><td valign="top">The Caribe,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_063">63</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_8">8.</a></td><td valign="top">The Electric Eel,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_9">9.</a></td><td valign="top">Troop of Wild Horses,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_084">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_10">10.</a></td><td valign="top">A Prairie on Fire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_097">97</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_11">11.</a></td><td valign="top">Encounter with a Crocodile,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_114">114</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_12">12.</a></td><td valign="top">The Saman,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_122">122</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_13">13.</a></td><td valign="top">Garzero,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_137">137</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_14">14.</a></td><td valign="top">The Rodeo,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_175">175</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_15">15.</a></td><td valign="top">Training the Boys,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_200">200</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_16">16.</a></td><td valign="top">Mata-caballo,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_210">210</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_17">17.</a></td><td valign="top">Coral Snake,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_212">212</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_18">18.</a></td><td valign="top">Aristolochia Apurensis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_219">219</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_19">19.</a></td><td valign="top">The Jaguar,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_222">222</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_20">20.</a></td><td valign="top">The Puma,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_233">233</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_21">21.</a></td><td valign="top"><i>Garzoneando</i>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_242">242</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_22">22.</a></td><td valign="top">The Armadillo,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_l" id="page_l"></a>{l}</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_23">23.</a></td><td valign="top">The Great Ant-Eater,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_257">257</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_24">24.</a></td><td valign="top">Among the Crocodiles,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_25">25.</a></td><td valign="top">Young Crocodile,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_282">282</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_26">26.</a></td><td valign="top">Crocodile Basking in the Sun,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_292">292</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_27">27.</a></td><td valign="top">Our Leader,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_28">28.</a></td><td valign="top">Capture of Spanish Gunboats by Llanero Cavalry,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_350">350</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_29">29.</a></td><td valign="top">Dr. Gallegos Sewing the Belly of a Wounded Horse,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_365">365</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_30">30.</a></td><td valign="top">Scenes at El Dorado,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_391">391</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_31">31.</a></td><td valign="top">Arrow used in Turtle Shooting,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_443">443</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" class="rt"><a href="#ill_32">32.</a></td><td valign="top">Homeward Bound,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_448">448</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span> </p> - -<h1>TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.</h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE DEPARTURE.</span></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Y greyes van sin cuento<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Paciendo tu verdura desde el llano<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Que tiene por lindero el horizonte,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Hasta el erguido monte<br /></span> -<span class="i1">De inaccesible nieve siempre cano.”<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i6"><span class="smcap">Andres Bello</span>, <i>Silva á la Zona Tórrida</i>.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> a fine morning of a tropical December month, a jolly cavalcade, or -rather a heterogeneous assemblage from the various castes composing the -bulk of the population in the Venezuelian Republic, was to be seen -traversing the streets of the beautiful town of Maracay, in the -direction of the road leading to the <i>Llanos</i> or Pampas of Apure, a -region widely celebrated for its wildness, its dangers, and the many -exploits enacted therein. There the father of the writer owned extensive -cattle-farms, and the aforesaid company proposed spending the remainder -of the summer season in hunting among the untamed herds constituting the -wealth and commerce of that wild region.</p> - -<p>I shall never forget the exciting scenes of that eventful day; it forms -one of the most pleasing episodes of my life. Full well do I remember -also the picturesqueness of the variegated costumes of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span> riders; -their red and blue ponchos flowing in the wind as they cantered to and -fro through the unusually animated streets of the little town, taking -leave of their friends, and provisioning their saddle-bags with the -necessaries they required; the trampling and neighing of horses; the -parting adieux and waving of handkerchiefs in the hands of lively -brunettes, as we defiled under the windows and balconies of the Calle -Real, crowded with anxious relatives, friends, and sweethearts of many a -gallant cavalier, who might never return from his distant and perilous -journey. For my part, I confess, that although for sundry reasons I -regretted departing from our romantic abode in the valleys of Aragua, -still, so great was my desire to visit the land of the wild bull and -crocodile, that for several nights before leaving home I dreamed of -nothing but wild scenes and terrible encounters with the lords of the -savannas.</p> - -<p>The method of conducting a South American cattle farm is entirely -different from that usually practised among the more peaceful scenes of -the North American prairies. Here the cattle, accustomed from their -birth to the friendly voice of man, readily obey his commands and follow -him instinctively wherever he leads them. In the plains of South -America, on the contrary, the herds hear no other than the voice of -Nature in her sublimest moods, in the thunders of the storm, and when in -her vernal showers she calls upon the crocodiles and other drowsy -reptiles, awakening them from their periodical summer’s lethargy; and -nightly the roar and screams of savage beasts answering each other in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span> -the darkness. The cattle, thus roaming over extensive plains, and free -of all restraint, necessarily require to be occasionally collected -together for the purpose of branding and marking the young calves, which -increase there with astonishing rapidity. If this precaution were -neglected, they would in time become so dispersed over those boundless -plains, as to be altogether irreclaimable. This operation cannot be -accomplished, however, without a great number of men and horses, both -well trained to and thoroughly acquainted with this demi-savage -occupation. Therefore we mustered now quite a little army of <i>Llaneros</i>, -or natives of the Llanos, who are the only individuals capable of -prosecuting and successfully performing the arduous duties appertaining -to these cattle forays.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Our retinue presented pretty much the appearance of an oriental caravan; -it consisted of more than a hundred individuals of all grades and -colors; from the bright, rubicund faces of merry England’s sons, to the -jetty phiz of the native African, all of whom, notwithstanding, -fraternized as though sprung from the same race.</p> - -<p>Our company, moreover, had been organized as if for a military campaign, -and formed the nucleus of a more extensive camp, to be increased by -additions from different places along the route. The leader—General -Paez—besides having acquired in early life a practical knowledge of -this peculiar warfare, possessed in addition the rare gift of being—in -the opinion of many—“the first rider in South America,”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> and withal the -most accomplished Llanero in the Republic. His dispositions were -accordingly made in a manner most likely to insure success in this -strange campaign; passing in review every person and every object, with -as scrupulous care as he bestowed upon the legions under his command in -the long strife for his country’s freedom; distributing each particular -horse with reference to the skill and special duties of his rider, and -every load according to the strength of each beast of burden.</p> - -<p>Next in importance to the Leader was a Surgeon and Physician, whose -valuable services were to be frequently called into requisition. -Although we were not now to encounter powder and ball, we had to deal -with no less dangerous enemies in the form of wild bulls, snakes, and -crocodiles, without reckoning the pestiferous marshes of the country.</p> - -<p>After our Surgeon came the Treasurer; his duty was to conduct safely the -military chest of the expedition, consisting of sundry bags of hard -dollars, ponchos, checkered linen handkerchiefs of the peculiar pattern -worn with so much pride by Llaneros on the head, knives, sword blades, -and various other articles of barter which they prize more than money -itself, and for the attainment of which they labor hard and even expose -their lives.</p> - -<p>To me was assigned the honorable post of Secretary to the expedition, -whose pleasant duty was to keep its records, and at times those of the -political “Bulls and Bears” of the country at large. Attached to this -office were an English amateur of wild sports, an English artist of -considerable merit, and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> few others, who, like myself, not being -sufficiently trained to the hard operations of the field, were forced to -be content with the tamer occupations of the cattle farm, and only an -occasional foray among the smaller game of the savannas.</p> - -<p>I will mention two other individuals, who, although filling less exalted -positions than the preceding—being the cook and the washerman—were -very necessary to our comfort; not that we felt over-scrupulous with -regard to the dressing of either ourselves or that of the savory dishes -of the Llanos—where I relished a beafsteak <i>au naturel</i> with as much -gusto as though prepared by the Delmonicos or Maillards of New York—but -an early cup of coffee was a luxury not to be despised, and an -occasional scouring of our scanty wardrobe was equally an essential. The -cook was a mulatto by birth, whose name—Mónico—bore some similarity to -that of the distinguished caterer of William street, and was as great a -favorite with us as the latter is among the “down town” gentry of the -great city, not only on account of his good nature and skill in the -preparation of the delicious beverage before mentioned,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i5">“que en los festines<br /></span> -<span class="i0">La fiebre insana templará á Lieo,”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">but also for the aid he lent his companions in mending their tattered -garments, being as accomplished a tailor and shoemaker as cook. Gaspar, -the washerman, was a lame negro rather advanced in years, but with all -the vivacity of his race still sparkling in his eyes. He had earned some -reputation in his time as a brave soldier during the protracted war of -Independence,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> but, disabled now by a bullet and sundry tiger scars, -testimonials of his good service in the cause of humanity, could perform -no other work than the rather feminine one allotted to him on this -occasion. He, however, possessed other accomplishments, among which the -chief was that of recounting his adventures in the wars and with the -wild beasts of the field, which made him a desirable companion and -general favorite.</p> - -<p>Poor fellows! they are both dead, and their bones, as well as those of -most of that little band of heroes, are now bleaching in the hot sun of -the tropics, amid the waving grass of those savannas once rendered -famous by their deeds of valor and enlivened by their chivalrous songs. -After faithfully following their leader through dangers and hardships no -less terrible than those of the battle-field, one by one they fell, not -by foe “in battle arrayed,” nor the terrible stroke of the wild bull, -but by the assassin’s treacherous hand, and those of the unprincipled -myrmidons of military misrule; not because of their political influence -in the councils of the Nation, but for being the faithful followers of -their beloved Chieftain.</p> - -<p>The reader has now been introduced to those constituting the Staff of -the expedition; but in addition a host of attendants and idlers formed -the rank and file of this motley assemblage. Each one of these had a -special duty to perform. Some were <i>asistentes</i>, or the personal -attendants of the former, as no <i>blanco</i> ventures to travel in the -Llanos without some <i>cicerone</i> of the country to guide him over the -trackless wastes, to saddle his horse, and see that both horse and -rider<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> are comfortably quartered for the night. Others were appointed to -conduct the beasts of burden, of which there were a formidable array; -while the most experienced riders were intrusted with the care and -guidance of our <i>madrina</i>, or pack of supernumerary horses, which formed -by far the most efficient element of our expedition.</p> - -<p>Our drove consisted of about two hundred spirited chargers, as swift and -slim as any that ever tramped the hot sands of Yemen or the Sahara; -these were to be reinforced with fresh relays from the cattle farms, to -supply the place of those which might be carried off from various causes -during those exciting hunts.</p> - -<p>The only method of travelling as yet adopted in the country is on -horseback. This is at first somewhat fatiguing to those unaccustomed to -long journeys; but the traveller soon becomes inured to it, and ends by -preferring it to any other, on account of the exhilarating sensation of -independence he experiences; at all events, it is the most convenient -that can be adopted in a country which, like the Pampas, is subject to -vast inundations, and overgrown in all its extent by the rank herbage of -the savannas. On the mountains, mules are usually preferred for their -surefootedness, as also for their astonishing endurance of hunger and -fatigue; but in the Pampas, where journeys must be accomplished with -great expedition and rapidity, they are comparatively worthless from the -shortness of their gait, and also because their hoofs become softened by -the marshy soil which everywhere prevails, they being never shod, owing -to a mistaken notion of the riders, who believe that by so doing the -surefootedness<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> of the animal is impaired. The best horses, -consequently, had been selected on this occasion, but were not to be -saddled until we reached the Llanos. These were all collected into a -<i>madrina</i> or drove, together with the <i>vaqueros</i> or horses destined for -the chase, and placed under the charge of half a dozen experienced -Llaneros, who were to drive them loose across the country. In the mean -time we would perform on mules the first four days of our journey, which -lay across the rough and hilly country between the valleys and the -plains. As beasts of burden, mules are particularly serviceable; in view -of this we had collected a pack of about twenty for the purpose of -transporting our loads, consisting partly, as I have observed, of -various descriptions of goods for distribution among the Llaneros, in -part payment of their wages; but the greater number were laden with our -own chattels and provisions; for although the Llanos are justly regarded -as a land of plenty, the habitations are yet so widely distant, that it -is expedient to provide for all contingencies.</p> - -<p>Our road, at times, lay across extensive fields of sugar cane, indigo, -and tobacco; or through vast plantations of Erithynas (<i>bucarales</i>) -raised for the protection of the shade-loving Cacao trees, loaded with -the luscious bean that yields its “divine food”<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> to gods and mortals. -At other times, extensive tracks of waste lands (<i>rastrojos</i>) overgrown -with a luxuriant vegetation, intercepted the line of our march, giving<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span> -the country a wild and desolate aspect. Land is so cheap and plentiful -in Venezuela, that it is always more advantageous for the planter, -whenever the land has become exhausted with repeated cultivation, to -clear a new patch of ground for his crop, than to trouble himself about -restoring to the ground by artificial means what nature will provide in -the course of time. The rapidity with which a patch of waste land, that -only a year or two before had been abandoned as unserviceable, becomes -covered with an exuberant vegetation in the tropics, is quite -extraordinary. Hardly have the plough and hoe of the industrious -husbandman ceased to harass the land with their incessant toil, when an -entirely different crop of indigenous plants, which had been silently -struggling for existence, now make their appearance, and change the -aspect of the landscape with new forms of vegetation. Insignificant -weeds at first, scarcely worth noticing, they soon attain sufficient -strength to arrest the progress of any stragglers that might have -remained of the plantation. In a short time they have acquired the size -and form of well-developed trees, with boughs spreading far above a man -on horseback; and before two summers have elapsed, not a vestige remains -of what was once a flourishing plantation. An endless variety of -creepers, such as convolvulus, bignonias, and passion flowers, now find -support among their numerous branches, forming with them the most -picturesque bowers and arcades, or hanging by their sides in graceful -garlands and festoons of the most exquisite beauty. Our troop of -supernumerary horses, as if unwilling to leave behind<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> these delightful -retreats, did not fail to profit by the tangled nature of the cover, -frequently eluding the vigilance of the drivers, and dashing forward -whenever they saw an opening to decamp. The most skilful management on -the part of the drivers was then required to disentangle them from the -thick jungle; otherwise we should have arrived at the end of our journey -with less than half their number. It was quite amusing to see those -reckless fellows gliding here and there through the tangled woods in -full pursuit of the refractory animals, now hanging from one leg down -the sides of their steeds, or stretched over their necks to avoid being -lifted from the saddle by the intervening branches. In spite of all -precaution, and the vigilance of their drivers, we missed several -valuable hunters in the course of the journey, every one of which made -his way back to the <i>potreros</i> or old grazing grounds with unerring -precision. So remarkable is this peculiarity in horses of one place -driven across a strange country, and the cunning they display in -effecting their escape, that although we left instructions along the -route to secure all deserters, most of those we missed at a considerable -distance from Maracay, made their way back across the fields, avoiding -in their flight the public roads and populated districts through which -we had passed.</p> - -<p>Late in the evening we reached San Luis de Cura, a town of some -importance on our route. Although we had there many friends of whose -hospitality we could have availed ourselves, we preferred passing the -night at a <i>Pulperia</i>, or country inn, a short distance in -advance—hotels being yet unknown in that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> part of the country. Our -numerous retinue, and especially our horses, accustomed to the -unrestrained freedom of the <i>potrero</i>—an enclosed field attached to the -<i>Pulperia</i>—precluded all idea of seeking accommodations within the -narrow limits of a city residence. Declining, therefore, all invitations -to that effect, we pushed on to a place called El Rodeo, a few miles -further.</p> - -<p>San Luis de Cura—or Villa de Cura, as it is usually called—is a sort -of entrepôt to which the people of the Llanos resort from time to time -to barter the products of their farms for those of foreign manufacture, -retailed there by country traders. It is, in fact, the connecting link -between the agricultural and pastoral sections of the republic; hence we -find there the strangest admixture of wild and civilized manners and -costumes curiously intermingled in all the pursuits and vocations of the -people. Thus we often meet with persons of respectability clad in the -elegant city dress, and riding a horse entirely caparisoned in the gaudy -attire of the Llanos, and <i>vice versa</i>.</p> - -<p>Our accommodations at the inn were not of the most inviting description, -neither its apartments nor the <i>potrero</i> affording much comfort to the -weary caravan, after their long ride. A stony bank on the slope of the -barren hill for couch and the broad dome of heaven for roof, with not -even posts enough from which to sling our hammocks, was all the -hospitality we received at the Pulperia. We slept soundly -notwithstanding, softening our beds of pebbles by spreading our ponchos -over them, while each man’s saddle,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> serving at once as pillow and -larder, furnished us with supper on this occasion. The llanero saddle is -admirably adapted for the rough journeys of the country, and though -somewhat ponderous, renders good service to the wandering Llanero in his -long peregrinations. These saddles, usually styled <i>vaqueras</i>, in -allusion to the occupations of the riders, appear to be modelled after -the gay accoutrements of the Arabs; the same profusion of silver -ornament and bright-colored trimmings of morocco, the high peak in -front, and still higher cantle behind. A comfortable <i>pellon</i> or -shabrack, made either of an entire sheepskin or horse hair dyed black -and neatly braided at one end, covers the entire seat, and hangs from it -in graceful folds. Numbers of bags and pockets—<i>bolsas</i>—made of the -same material as the saddle, and in keeping with the rest, are affixed -to it for the purpose of stowing away all those little commodities so -essential to the traveller on a long journey, such as <i>papelon</i>, a sort -of brown sugar in cakes resembling maple sugar, cheese, cakes of Indian -corn, and <i>aguardiente</i>, a beverage equally celebrated for its use and -its abuse. The stirrups, which are usually carved from a block of wood, -present the peculiarity of being longer and heavier than any ever -adopted by equestrians. Although termed <i>africanos</i>, they are just the -reverse of their cognomens, as can be seen by comparing the subjoined -designs.</p> - -<p>An expert rider never places his whole foot in the stirrup, as is the -case with the Arabs, but holds it with his big toe, so as to disentangle -himself readily in case of a fall. This habit gives a crooked shape to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span> -the feet and legs of the rider, which peculiarity entitles him to the -credit of being a good horseman.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b013_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b013_sml.jpg" width="209" height="91" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>The carvings on some of these stirrups are very fanciful, and display -considerable taste. Their beauty is thought to consist chiefly in the -two triangular appendages at the bottom with which they urge on their -horses.</p> - -<p>The <i>cobija</i> or poncho is also a most indispensable commodity on these -long journeys; and no traveller should omit providing himself with one, -especially during the rainy season. It is fully six feet square, with a -hole in the centre to admit the head, and its office is twofold, viz., -to protect the rider and his cumbrous equipment from the heavy showers -and dews of the tropics, and to spread under him when there is no -convenience for slinging the hammock. It also serves as a protection -from the scorching rays of the sun, experience having taught its wearer -that a thick woollen covering keeps the body moist and cool by day, and -warm by night. The poncho used in Venezuela is made double, by sewing -together two different blankets, the outside one being dark blue and the -inner one bright red, which colors, as is well known, are differently -acted upon by light and heat. By exposing alternately the sides of the -poncho to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> the light according to the state of the weather, those -modifications of temperature most agreeable to the body are obtained. -Thus, when the day is damp and cloudy, the dark side of the poncho, -which absorbs the most heat, is turned towards the light, while the -reverse is the case when the red surface is presented to the sun. On the -same principle, the <i>manta</i>, or white linen poncho, is worn when the sun -is very powerful, the color in this instance repelling the rays of light -more readily than the red surface of woollen materials. The <i>manta</i> is a -very expensive luxury on account of the embroideries that usually -decorate it, and which might rival in elegance the finest skirt of a New -York or Parisian <i>belle</i>. When worn by a gallant cavalier on a sunny -day, it presents in the distance a very picturesque appearance, not -unlike the graceful bornouse of the Arabs.</p> - -<p>Equally useful and expensive is the hammock, one of the few articles of -native manufacture produced in Venezuela, and one which has thus far -baffled the ingenuity of foreign weavers to imitate. It is woven by hand -on looms of rude construction in very tasteful designs, and trimmed with -fringings of the most complicated pattern. A fine hammock costs from -fifty to sixty dollars.</p> - -<p>It may truly be said that with hammock, poncho, and the saddle with its -array of pockets, &c., the roving dwellers of the pampas are at home -wherever they may be. They are, in fact, the tent, bed, and valise best -adapted to the country, affording them all the comfort that a princely -rajah could experience under his gorgeous panoply of oriental -magnificence,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> and possessing, moreover, the advantage of being easily -conveyed from place to place, in a small compass, by the riders. The -hammock and the poncho usually form a bundle behind the saddle; with -them the traveller makes himself a tent when camping out, by stretching -out a rope from end to end of the hammock, over which the poncho is -thrown at oblique angles, and then tied securely to the rope. Under it -the traveller may now defy the storm, and even Old Boreas himself, as -the stronger the tent is impelled to and fro, the more lulling to the -sleeper will be the motion imparted to it from the outside.</p> - -<p>It is surprising to see a horse of so small stature as those from the -Llanos generally are, carry on his back both the weight of the rider and -his ponderous equipment for such considerable distances; but the fact -is, that the loads are so well distributed and counterbalanced, that the -animals feel no material inconvenience therefrom.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE MORROS.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Early</span> the next morning we were aroused by the trampling of horses and -tinkling of stirrups close to our resting places, apprising us that the -hour of departure was near at hand. To travel with comfort in those hot -regions, it is necessary to make the most of the absence of the sun, -before its rays descend to the earth in glowing streams, parching the -body and spirits of the traveller. Our people, therefore, commenced to -saddle and load as early as three o’clock <small>A.M.</small> The operation usually -occupied considerable time, as each animal had to be hunted in the dark, -as well as its accoutrements. The baggage mules, especially, required -more than ordinary skill in replacing and adjusting the loads upon their -backs by means of a hundred turns of the <i>lazos</i>, or raw-hide halters. -And even after the greatest precautions, the vicious creatures -endeavored to displace their loads by running against each other or -rolling on the ground, to the inconceivable disgust of the drivers, who -were often compelled to alight from their sumpters to put things to -rights.</p> - -<p>Our road lay this day across a wild and desolate valley, presenting the -appearance of having once been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span> the scene of violent convulsions of -nature, judging from the distorted masses of granite and gneiss piled -along the route. The morning, though moonless, was bright with stars, -which in those latitudes sparkle like diamonds in a setting of azure. -The air was balmy; and the solitude of the spot, only broken by the -occasional shriek of a night owl, or the refreshing murmur of a mountain -stream, was truly sublime.</p> - -<p>Slowly winding our course down the rugged sides of a deep ravine, we -came suddenly in view of a most glorious spectacle. The delicate tints -of dawn were already gilding the rugged crest of the distant mountains; -above these rose in silent grandeur what appeared at first a heavy cloud -of an intense blue, the irregular outlines of which set in bold relief -against the transparent sky, forming the background to the picture. I -eagerly spurred my mule forward to gain an eminence from whence I could -contemplate more advantageously that magnificent spectacle, when, to my -great astonishment, I discovered that, what I had supposed a cloud, was -in fact the famous promontory known as the Morros de San Juan, the -singular conformation of which has given rise to many speculations and -legendary dissertations on the part of savants and others less versed in -scientific researches. When the sun rose above the horizon, a more -extraordinary scene was never unfolded to the eye of the spectator. The -huge and rugged mountain, some thousand feet high, stood in the midst of -a desolate gulf, apparently of volcanic origin; while the vegetation, -stunted and scrubby for want of adequate nourishment, contrasted -singularly with the granite<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> masses scattered all over the valley. The -meandering rivulet of La Puerta, twice the scene of sanguinary conflicts -between patriots and Spaniards, threaded its sparkling way through that -Valley of Death, to mix its waters with those of the beautiful Guárico -in the distance. In both of those engagements the arms of Spain were -victorious; but, as often happened in those days of <i>guerra á muerte</i>, -the victors steeped their laurels in the blood of the vanquished with -unsparing hand. These triumphs were shared alternately by the monster -Boves and the sanguinary Morillo. It would be difficult to find two more -bloody wretches than these myrmidons of despotism, whose very names are -to this day the avenging cry against the race from which they both -sprang. The forces opposed to them in these engagements hardly amounted -to one-half their own numbers; but the patriots under Bolívar accepted -the battle with the despair of men who have no alternative between death -and an ignominious yoke. It is asserted that the rivulet became, on both -occasions, completely glutted with the gore and dead bodies of the -vanquished. Morillo had a very narrow escape from the lance of the -famous Juan Pablo Farfan, who deliberately attacked the Spanish -chieftain in the midst of his staff. Although the bold Llanero succeeded -in piercing the groin of the Spaniard with his lance, the wound was not -sufficiently deep to cause his death.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The rugged crest of the mountain surrounded by an atmosphere -resplendently clear, the wild and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> shattered rocks, piled like the giant -skeletons of an extinct race, together with the painful associations -connected with the spot, made an impression upon my mind not easily -forgotten.</p> - -<p>Although I had often experienced a keen desire to see this natural -wonder of my country, I could not repress a feeling of regret at the -recollection of the sanguinary scenes enacted on this spot, and that my -first impressions of astonishment should be replaced by others of a less -pleasing character.</p> - -<p>On awakening from the reverie into which the scene had plunged me, I -perceived for the first time that I was alone, my less contemplative -companions having proceeded on their journey while I was absorbed in -wonder. I felt glad of my solitude, for the very silence seemed to -breathe a prayer to the Almighty for the martyred children of Liberty -before one of his most glorious temples.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_3" id="ill_3"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b019_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b019_sml.jpg" width="277" height="204" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span></p> - -<p>We reached the village of San Juan in time to breakfast at the house of -our excellent friend Don José Pulido, a gentleman of most amiable and -hospitable disposition. While they prepared our morning meal, I repaired -to the outskirts of the village to sketch the Morros, which from the -distance appeared two huge castles in ruins. The continued action of the -waters has furrowed the sides of the mountain—composed principally of a -peculiar limestone—into many fantastic forms. The same wearing action -has in like manner perforated the calcareous rock into a thousand -subterranean passages or chasms of fathomless depth, it being asserted -by persons who have approached sufficiently near the entrance of these -caves, that a bowlder rolled down the abyss, is never heard to strike -the bottom. I regretted exceedingly that our short stay at this place -would not permit me to visit the interior of the main entrance to these -subterranean passages, no person ever having ventured within the dark -abode—as it is currently believed—of demons and the like. As a proof -of this assertion, the villagers point out to the inquisitive traveller -a spring issuing from that Tartarus highly charged with sulphurated -hydrogen gas, the fumes of which are in themselves sufficiently powerful -to convey the idea that something diabolical must be brewing in the -bowels of the stupendous mountain. The spring, however, possesses highly -medicinal virtues; on this account it is often visited by invalids from -various parts of the country, especially those affected with rheumatic -or scrofulous complaints.</p> - -<p>During a heavy freshet, the bones of an antediluvian<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span> animal, supposed -to be those of a mastodon, were disinterred by the torrent in the bed of -a ravine. A portion of these bones were sent to us by our zealous friend -Don José, as a great curiosity; as such they were transferred to the -British Minister at Caracas, and finally consigned by him to the great -Museum in London.</p> - -<p>The village of San Juan is likewise noted for its fine climate and the -total absence of epidemics. Invalids affected with pulmonary complaints -find there also an air and temperature most congenial. Beyond these -advantages, San Juan offers no other attractions to the stranger capable -of inducing a longer sojourn than is absolutely necessary, as not even a -ranch has been raised there for the convenience of those seeking its -beneficent waters.</p> - -<p>After partaking of a substantial breakfast, composed of the most popular -dishes of the country, such as <i>carne frita</i>, <i>sancocho</i>, and some -delicious fish from the river Guárico, we bade adieu to our estimable -host, Don José, and continued our journey down the stony bottom of a -narrow <i>quebrada</i> or ravine, noted for its many windings, and the -quantities of sharp stones that pave the way; these are evidently the -detached fragments of the basaltic formation constituting the base of -the Morros. At Flores, a miserable country inn like all the rest along -this route, we stopped a few moments to refresh ourselves with -<i>guarapo</i>, a kind of cider made from the juice of sugar cane, or by -dissolving <i>papelon</i> in water and allowing it to ferment for a few days. -The guarapo of Flores is celebrated throughout the country, and no -person<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span> passing through this place ever omits to call for it. When mixed -with aguardiente, it forms what is termed <i>carabina</i>, (carbine;) the -effects rarely fail to knock down those who rashly brave its fire.</p> - -<p>Our next stopping place was the village of Ortiz, a little beyond that -of Parapara. Taken together, they might be considered as the Pillars of -Hercules to the grassy Mediterranean of the Llanos, and the terminus of -civilized pursuits in that quarter, as there you find the last vestiges -of agriculture and the useful arts. In addition to small patches of -sugar cane and Indian corn raised by the inhabitants for their own -consumption, they excel in the manufacture of leather, saddles, and -their appurtenances, which they sell to all parts of the country. Beyond -this, nothing is to be met with but wild herds of cattle grazing on -prairies or steppes of vast extent, with the exception of the narrow -belt of park-like scenery intervening between these and a ridge of low, -rocky hills—<i>galeras</i>—which skirts the ancient shore of the great -basin of those pampas. The <i>galeras</i> were doubtless the natural rampart -of that extraordinary body of waters which, at some remote epoch, must -have filled the space now forming the grazing grounds of Venezuela, as -attested by the nature of the soil and the organic remains found -imbedded in the clay.</p> - -<p>I noticed at Ortiz the same trap formation of the Morros, with extensive -beds of basaltic slate protruding through the sides of the hills. Entire -columns of this slate, varying from four to five feet in length by six -inches diameter, are used in the village for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span> paving the thresholds of -houses, their quadrangular form adapting them perfectly for this purpose -without any additional labor after being detached from the rock. The -action of the waters during the untold lapse of ages, or perhaps the -irruptions of the sea itself when it beat against the sides of the -hills, has caused the partial disintegration of the rock in many places, -and scattered the debris far and wide over the surrounding country. -Nevertheless, vegetation seemed nowhere affected in the least by this -vast accumulation of loose stones; on the contrary, wherever it was -favored by the depressions of the ground, trees of large dimensions, -noted for hardness and durability, sprang up, forming dense forests on -either side of the road. Foremost in the long catalogue of splendid -timber trees of Venezuela, we found there growing in great perfection -the <i>Vera</i>, or Lignum Vitæ—Zigophylum arboreum—the wood of which is so -hard that it turns the edge of the best-tempered tools; breaking or -splitting it seems equally impossible, on account of the interweaving of -its fibres, which cross each other in diagonal layers. This tree has a -wide range over the country, especially near the sea-coast, which -circumstance renders it extremely useful in the construction of wharves, -as well as for the keels of ships; the attacks of the teredo or seaworm -are futile upon the iron network of its fibres, on which account it can -remain under water for an indefinite period and eventually become -petrified. The useful <i>Guayacan</i> or guaiacum of the arts, a nearly -allied species of this tree, is also found here in the greatest -abundance; unfortunately it is too short to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> employed for the same -purposes as the former; it finds, however, numerous applications in -naval construction, especially for blocks and pulleys for the rigging of -vessels. Turners employ it likewise for various articles requiring -extreme hardness and a close grain.</p> - -<p>The <i>Alcornoque</i>, a most beautiful tree, somewhat resembling the -American elm, and scarcely inferior to the foregoing, raises here its -graceful head above the rest, affording the cattle a permanent shade -even during the driest seasons. It must not be confounded, however, with -the well-known Spanish oak—Quercus suber—which yields the cork of -commerce. It is largely employed in the Llanos in the construction of -houses and fences. Braziletto wood—Cesalpinia braziletto—so celebrated -for its beautiful dye, is so abundant here also, that all the fences at -Ortiz and Parapara are made of this valuable dyewood.</p> - -<p>The list of useful trees peculiar to this region could be extended -beyond the limits of this chapter, were it not for the fear of taxing -the patience of my reader with an abstract nomenclature. I cannot pass -unnoticed, however, two other trees of no less importance to the -natives, on account of their timber and medicinal properties; these are -the <i>Tacamahaca</i>—Elaphrium tomentosum—and the tree that yields the -precious balsam of copaiva—Copaifera officinalis. By making incisions -in the trunk and branches of both these trees, a resinous fluid, -possessing great healing powers when applied to wounds and other -ailments of the flesh, is obtained in great abundance and collected in -tin cans placed under the incisions. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span> former is particularly -abundant in the province of Guayana, where it attains to great -dimensions. Its resin, an opaque, lemon-colored substance resembling -wax, is very fragrant, and when mixed with that of <i>Caraña</i> or -<i>Algarroba</i>, forms excellent torches which burn with great brilliancy, -and emit a delicious odor. The bark is also remarkable as affording a -material similar to that employed by the North American Indians in the -construction of their canoes, and used similarly by their brethren of -the Orinoco for their light pirogues. With this object the Indian -separates the bark without breaking, and cutting it of the required -dimensions, proceeds to join the extremities by means of <i>bejucos</i> or -slender vines, filling the interstices with a little moist clay to throw -off the water; the whole is then well bound with stronger vines, and a -couple or more sticks are affixed between the borders of the pirogue to -prevent its collapsing when launched into the broad stream.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE LLANOS.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Ortiz as usual, very early the next morning, stumbling here and -there amidst the mass of loose stones which paved the way all along the -winding bed of the <i>quebrada</i>. In proportion as we advanced on our -route, the hills decreased in size, while the loose stones seemed to -increase in quantity. The splendid groves of hardy and balsamiferous -trees, which near Ortiz formed an almost impenetrable forest, gradually -became less imposing in appearance, until they were replaced by thickets -of thorny bushes, chiefly composed of several species of mimosas, with a -delicate and feathery foliage. The traveller accustomed to the shade of -a luxuriant vegetation, and to the sight of cultivated valleys, is -struck by the rapid diminution of the former, and the total -disappearance of the latter, as he emerges from the Galeras of Ortiz: -yet he is somewhat compensated by the almost overpowering <i>perfume</i> shed -by masses of the canary-colored blossoms with which these shrubs are -loaded, from the</p> - -<p><a name="ill_4" id="ill_4"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b026a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b026a_sml.jpg" width="390" height="235" alt="Image unavailable: THE LLANOS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE LLANOS.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">summits down to the bending branches that trail the ground at every -passing breeze.</p> - -<p>Suddenly we entered a widely-extended tract of level land almost -destitute of vegetation. With the exception of a few clumps of -palm-trees with fan-like leaves, nothing but short grass covered its -entire surface, almost realizing the idea of “an ocean covered with -sea-weed.” A dense mass of vapor pervading the atmosphere obscured the -horizon, while the fan-palms, seen from afar, appeared like ships -enveloped in a fog. Gradually the circle of the heavens seemed to close -around us, until we became, as it were, encompassed by the sky. We were, -in fact, treading the shores of the great basin of the Llanos, over one -of the ancient shoals or <i>Mesas</i>, which, like successive terraces, now -form the borders of those grassy oceans known as the Pampas. This was -the Mesa de Paya, the seat of one of the cattle-farms to which we were -bound.</p> - -<p>After wandering for nearly three hours over this monotonous landscape -without compass, and guided only by certain landmarks known to the -<i>vaqueanos</i>, we came unexpectedly upon the borders of the Mesa, which -commands an extensive view of the lower savannas. As if by magic the -dreary scene changed to one of the most glorious panoramas in existence. -At our feet lay a beautiful expanse of meadow, fresh and smooth as the -best cultivated lawn, with troops of horses and countless herds of -cattle dispersed all over the plain. Several glittering ponds, alive -with all varieties of aquatic birds, reflected upon their limpid surface -the broad-leaved<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> crowns of the fan-palms, towering above verdant groves -of laurel, amyris, and elm-like <i>robles</i>. Further beyond, and as far as -the eye could reach, the undulating plain appeared like a petrified -ocean, after the sweeping tempest.</p> - -<p>But I feel that my descriptions fall short of the reality, and that I am -unable to depict the harmonious effects of light and shade, and the -blending of the various tints of green, blue and purple, dispersed over -this extensive panorama; the gentle undulations of the plain; the -towering palms gracefully fanning the glowing atmosphere with their -majestic crowns of broad and shining leaves; and myriad other beauties -difficult to enumerate.</p> - -<p>I could scarcely tear myself away from the spot, so fascinated was I -with the novelty of the scene. My companions, more concerned for the -speedy termination of the journey than the beautiful in nature, set off -at a brisk trot towards the house, which was at no great distance. -Fearing to lose my way among the intricate paths leading to it, I was -compelled to follow in their wake, stopping occasionally to gaze once -more upon those enchanting groves, which seemed to return me to the -highly cultivated fields and green meadows of glorious “Old England,” -whence I had just returned.</p> - -<p>On descending to the plain below, my attention was attracted to an -unsightly group of palm-thatched huts, looking more like huge bee-hives -than the abode of human beings. A formidable fence of palm trunks -surrounded the premises, and several acres of ground beyond. These were -the <i>corrals</i>, or enclosures<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> where the training of the fierce herds was -practised by the hardy dwellers of the Llanos; but no signs of -cultivation, or aught else connected with the rural occupations of the -farmer, were visible in the neighborhood. Presently the cavalcade -stopped before the gate, and all the individuals composing it dismounted -and began to unsaddle their horses amidst the barking of a legion of -dogs, and the braying of all the donkeys in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>This was the <i>hato</i> or cattle-farm of San Pablo we were in quest of, -famous in the annals of the civil wars in Venezuela, as the occasional -head-quarters of the constitutional armies, commanded by the owner of -this farm. Our leader was received at the entrance of his estate, by a -grave and elderly negro slave, who acted as overseer, and had under his -control all the men and property attached to it. Kneeling upon the stony -court-yard, he kissed the hand extended to him in friendly greeting, -after which he proceeded to unsaddle his master’s horse, which he led to -a pond within the enclosure, where the horses were watered.</p> - -<p>We purposed remaining a few days at San Pablo, with the object of -incorporating some fresh relays of mules and horses from the abundant -stock of this estate: so we of the staff installed ourselves under the -palm-roof of our rustic mansion, while the rank and file of the -expedition found accommodation in the open barracoons adjoining it; -although none of the party had reason to boast of being better off than -their neighbor.</p> - -<p>“It is sad when pleasing first impressions are obliterated,” remarks a -sentimental writer; “always<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> painful to become <i>desenchanté</i> on a more -intimate acquaintance with either people or places.” I soon found that I -was not in the fairy land I had imagined, abounding in grottos and -refreshed by sparkling fountains, but in the region of the Llanos where -the French adage, <i>chacun pour soi et Dieu pour tous</i>, is verified to -its fullest extent. San Pablo, with its vaunted prestige, and in spite -of its proximity to several important marts, was no better provided with -accommodations than the untidy douar of the wandering Arab of the -Desert. A rickety table standing against the wall for fear of tumbling -down, two or three clumsy cedar chairs covered with raw-hide, and a -couple of grass hammocks, serving the double purpose of beds and -lounges, constituted all the furniture of the great farm. As a -substitute for wardrobes and hat-stands, we were shown a number of -deer-antlers and bull-horns imbedded in the walls of reeds and mud, on -which to hang our pouches, bridles, &c. I searched in vain, on our -arrival, for something like a bowl in which to lave my hands and face, -covered with dust and parched by the broiling sun of the savannas. Even -water was so scarce that it was served to us sparingly from a large -calabash gourd used in bringing it from the river, nearly a mile -distant. It is true there was, within the enclosure of the houses, a -pond or excavation, made while searching for the remains of a brave -officer who fell fighting for his country’s freedom. Sufficient water -had accumulated there during the rainy season to entitle it to the name -of <i>Laguna</i>, or Lake of Genaro Vazquez, the name of the afore-mentioned -hero; but it was so filled with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span> <i>Bavas</i>—a small species of -alligator,—terrapins, and toads, as to render the water undrinkable.</p> - -<p>But to return to our head-quarters, the structure of which struck me so -forcibly at first as a bee-hive of vast proportions, naturally -suggesting the idea of a “land of milk and honey.” Unfortunately neither -of these could be obtained either for love or money, although the woods -and pastures of the estate abounded in both the creatures that produced -them. So we were compelled to resort to our reserved stock of <i>papelon</i> -to sweeten our coffee, and to its own delicious natural aroma in the -place of milk. As to the house itself, it only differed from the rest in -that region in being larger, and perhaps in better order than are the -generality. Imagine a pyramidal structure, thatched with palm leaves, -the roof slanting to within a few feet of the ground, and supported on -stout posts of live timber, which served also as framework for the -walls, and you will have some idea of the style of architecture peculiar -to the country. Doors and windows are of no account in a country -uniformly warm throughout the year, and where the inhabitants possess -few articles capable of tempting the cupidity of light-fingered gentry. -Therefore, an ox-hide stretched across the openings left in the walls to -admit light and the inmates, is all that is required to keep off -uninvited guests. As an exception, to this rule, our mansion of San -Pablo had one or two rooms set apart for invalids, provided with doors -and windows of solid planks of timber in the rough; the other apartments -had the upper half of the walls purposely left open, to admit full and -free entrance of light and air. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> narrow piazza or corridor, formed by -the slanting of the roof to within five feet of the ground, ran along -the entire length of the main building, and was intended more as a -protection to the rooms against the sun and rains, than as a resort for -the inmates.</p> - -<p>The first step, on arriving, was to secure a place in the open reception -room, for my own chattels and hammock, before all the spare posts and -hooks had been appropriated by my companions. This accomplished, I -proceeded to a thorough examination of my saddle and its accoutrements, -so as to have them adapted to the peculiar mode of travelling in the -Llanos. This care I left to the good judgment of our attendants, not -being myself sufficiently skilled in the art of mending, greasing, and -putting in order the complicated gear of our riding equipment. In the -same predicament were also my two English companions, and our worthy -doctor; a kind word, however, addressed to the good-natured -Llaneros—especially if accompanied with a drop of aguardiente—never -failed of enlisting their services in our favor.</p> - -<p>Habit, as well as necessity, is sometimes the mother of invention, as my -experience soon taught me that, to get along in my new quarters, it -would be requisite to set aside the airs and insignia of civilization. -Divesting myself, therefore, of all such superfluities as coat, cravat, -pants, and shoes, I adopted the less cumbrous attire of the Llaneros, -consisting mainly of breeches tightly buttoned at the knee, and a loose -shirt, usually of a bright checkered pattern. Shoes are altogether -dispensed with in a country like the Llanos, subject to drenching rains, -and covered with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> mud during a great portion of the year, besides the -inconvenience they offer to the rider in holding the stirrup securely -when in chase of wild animals. The leg, however, is well protected from -the thorns and cutting grass of the savannas by a neat legging or -<i>botin</i>, made of buffskin, tightly buttoned down the calf by knobs or -studs of highly polished silver. Another characteristic article of -dress, and one in which the wearers take great pride, is the linen -checkered handkerchief, loosely worn around the head. Its object is -ostensibly to protect it from the intensity of the sun’s rays; but the -constant habit of wearing it has rendered the handkerchief as -indispensable a headdress to the Llaneros as is the cravat to the neck -of the city gentleman.</p> - -<p>One angle of the building was devoted to the kitchen, and rooms for the -overseer and his family; the other was set apart for a store-room, -suggesting hidden treasures of good things for the comfort of the inner -man. Being naturally inquisitive, I lost no time in investigating the -contents of the <i>bodega</i>; but instead of sweetmeats, fresh cheese, or -even bread, and butter,—articles of easy manufacture in the Llanos, on -which I had feasted my imagination,—I found the place filled with -roaches, pack-saddles, old bridles, lazos, and <i>tasajo</i> or jerked beef. -This last is prepared by cutting fresh beef into long strips, and -exposing them to dry in the sun, first rubbing them thoroughly with -salt. Animal substances spoil so readily in tropical climates, that -unless this precaution is taken immediately after a bullock is -slaughtered, the meat becomes tainted in a short time. Two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> or three -days’ exposure to the hot sun of the Llanos, is <i>sufficient</i> to render -the beef as dry and tough as leather; in this state, it may be stored -away for six months without spoiling. The older the better; age -imparting to it that peculiar rank flavor which makes <i>tasajo</i> so highly -prized by people of all ranks in Cuba and other West India Islands. -Large shipments of this beef have been made from Venezuela to those -places; but the competition of Buenos Ayres has reduced of late the -profits arising from this branch of our exports. The manner of killing -and quartering an animal in the Llanos deserves particular mention. The -cattle being usually some distance from the house, two horsemen are -despatched after the victim; one of them gallops close to the animal’s -rear, and throwing his unerring lazo at its head, drags it along, while -his companion urges it on by means of his <i>garrocha</i> or goad, until they -reach the sacrificial post: one or two turns of the lazo around this, -bring the animal close to the <i>botalon</i>; the matador then plunges the -point of his dagger into the vertebræ back of the head, and the -struggling beast drops as if struck by an electric spark; a second -thrust of the bloody dagger into his throat severs the artery, and the -blood gushes in torrents through the wound from every part of his body. -The prostrate victim is now turned upon its back, and a long incision -made lengthwise of the belly, preparatory to flaying and cutting up the -carcass. When the animal is not intended to be immediately slaughtered, -he is tied to the post by a succession of coils from the lazo around his -horns, and left there until the fatal moment comes to despatch him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span></p> - -<p>One night I was awakened by a terrific bellowing proceeding from the -<i>botalon</i>; but, as I knew there was no bullock there for slaughter at -the moment, I was at a loss how to account for this uproarious serenade. -Curiosity led me to inquire into the cause, and directing my steps -towards the spot, I beheld a group of about a dozen bulls, smelling at -the blood of their former companions, and ploughing up the gore with -their hoofs, evidently in great distress. This continued for some time, -until, finding their bewailing by moonlight rather too touching even for -artists’ ears, we ordered them to be driven away, in spite of the -sublimity of the scene. I had other opportunities of witnessing similar -testimonials of respect, whenever a herd of cattle approached the place -of execution, which never failed to impress me deeply with a feeling of -compassion for their sorrows.</p> - -<p>Every morning an animal was slaughtered for us. Our meals consisted of -roast beef, without either vegetables or wheaten bread. Indian corn we -had in abundance, both in the grain and in the husk; but before it could -be converted into <i>arepas</i>—the favorite bread of the country—it -required to be passed through a variety of operations each day, which -made the process rather tedious, as the grain must first be hulled by -pounding it in large wooden mortars, adding a handful of sand and a -little water: next the grain must be separated from the chaff, -thoroughly washed, and then boiled over a slow fire. In doing this, care -must be used, for if too soft it will not answer the purpose. Finally it -is ground to a paste between two stones, formed into flat cakes, and -baked in shallow pans of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> earthenware. The result of all this labor is -bread exceedingly white and nourishing; but it has the disadvantage of -becoming tough and unpalatable when cold. Under the popular name of -<i>tortillas</i>, this bread is also extensively used in Mexico and Central -America, although inferior to our own.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_5" id="ill_5"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b036_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b036_sml.jpg" width="278" height="208" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>Even this was considered a great luxury at San Pablo, few other -cattle-farms being provided with the necessary utensils for its -manufacture, and still fewer the number of those that will grow -sufficient corn for the consumption of their inmates. The Llaneros are -essentially a pastoral people, and trouble themselves but little with -the cultivation of the land, considering it rather derogatory to bend -their heads, even to mother Earth. Hence their homes are usually in a -state of utter wretchedness, being unprovided even<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span> with the commonest -necessaries. Although the land is extremely fertile, and would well -repay the labor with abundant crops of every kind of grain, they do not -consider bread an essential, using instead a piece of boiled liver, -which in their estimation answers just as well. Therefore the divine -command, which enjoins us to earn our daily bread by the sweat of the -brow, is not much regarded by them. In the midst of countless herds, and -surrounded with the most munificent gifts of a bountiful Providence, -they are often even without fresh meat; not because they are sparing of -their cattle, which in that country bears a nominal value, but because -they are naturally abstemious; and as for milk and butter, they despise -both as food only fit for children. Cheese, however, is a favorite -article of food with them, and in its preparation, they display -considerable ability, especially the delicious kind termed <i>queso de -manos</i>, a species of boiled cheese. As some of my readers may wish to -experiment in making it, I will give them the recipe. Curd the milk in -the usual way, and boil the curd in its own whey. When about the -consistency of molasses candy, stretch it out repeatedly with the hands -until cold. Add a little salt to the mass; roll it into flat cakes, and -hang the cheese to drain in nets suspended from the ceiling. When -pulled, it will separate in layers which look like parchment, retaining -all the flavor of the milk.</p> - -<p>The cows, being half wild in most cases, require to be milked by main -force. To accomplish this, one of the dairymen throws a noose around the -horns of the animal, and holds it secure by means of a long<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> pole -attached to the thong, while another proceeds to milk it in the usual -way; but none will yield a drop, unless the calf is first allowed to -suck a little, and then tied to the mother’s knee.</p> - -<p>Every cow is distinguished by a fancy name, such as Clavellina, Flor del -Campo, Marabilla, and others equally euphonious and poetical. When -called to be milked, the tame ones immediately answer in suppressed -bellowings, and come forward of their own accord, while the calves -confined in the pen, on hearing their mothers’ names, run along the -fence in search of the gate; a boy, stationed there for the purpose, -lets fall one of the bars, and off they bound after the mothers.</p> - -<p>The men perform there altogether the occupations allotted to women in -other countries, such as milking the cows, curding the milk, and turning -out the cheese when ready. They do not even disdain cooking their own -food, and washing their own garments, when occasion requires. Of the -women, I may be permitted to quote here what Sir Francis Head, in his -quaint style, says with reference to those in the Pampas of Buenos -Ayres, as being equally applicable to their sisters of the Llanos: “The -habits of the women are very curious: they have literally nothing to do, -the great plains which surround them offer no motive to work, they -seldom ride, and <i>their</i> lives certainly are very indolent and inactive. -They all have families, however, whether married or not; and once when I -inquired of a young woman employed in nursing a very pretty child, who -was the father of the ‘criatura,’ she replied ‘Quien sabe?’ ”<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span></p> - -<p>But it is time to introduce my reader to a more intimate acquaintance -with this singular race of people, whose manliness, bravery, and skill -in waging a constant war, not only with the wild animals of the field, -but against the proud legions of Iberia, entitle them to a place among -the heroes of the earth.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE LLANEROS.</span></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Dicheso aquel que alcanza<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Como rico don del Cielo,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Para defender su suelo<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Buen caballo y buena lanza.”<br /></span> -<span class="i6">—<span class="smcap">Arolas.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> people inhabiting the vast region of the Llanos, although claiming -descent from the old Castilian race, once the rulers of the land, are, -in fact, an amalgamation of the various castes composing the present -population of the Republic. These are, the whites, or the descendants of -the European settlers of the country; the aboriginals or Indians, and a -great proportion of blacks. In most of the towns the native whites -preponderate over all others, and represent the wealth, as well as the -most respectable portion of the community; in the villages and thinly -populated districts of the plains, a mongrel breed resulting from the -admixture of these three, constitute the majority of the inhabitants. -These are dispersed over an area of 27,000 square miles, making a -proportion<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span> of only fourteen individuals, out of a population of -390,000, to every square mile.</p> - -<p>This race, although vastly inferior to the first in mental capacity and -moral worth, is endowed with a physique admirably adapted to endure the -fatigues of a life beset with dangers and hardships.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> Cast upon a -wild and apparently interminable plain, the domain of savage beasts and -poisonous reptiles, their lot has been to pass all their life in a -perpetual struggle, not only with the primitive possessors of the land, -but with the elements themselves, often as fierce as they are grand. -When it is not the alarm of the dreaded viper or the spotted jaguar, it -is the sudden inroad of vast inundations, which, spreading with fearful -rapidity over the land, sweep off in one moment their frail habitations -and their herds. Nevertheless, this insecure existence, this continual<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> -struggle between life and death, between rude intellect and matter, has -for the Llanero a sort of fascination, perhaps not so well understood by -people possessing the blessings and ideas of civilization, but without -which he could not exist, especially if deprived of his horse and cast -among the mountain region north of his cherished plains. The Modern -Centaur of the desolate regions of the New World, the Llanero spends his -life on horseback; all his actions and exertions must be assisted by his -horse; for him the noblest effort of man is, when gliding swiftly over -the boundless plain and bending over his spirited charger, he overturns -an enemy or masters a wild bull. The following lines of Victor Hugo seem -as though copied from this model: “He would not fight but on horseback; -he forms but one person with his horse; he lives on horseback; trades, -buys, and sells on horseback; eats, drinks, sleeps, and dreams on -horseback.” Like the Arab, he considers his horse his best and most -reliable friend on earth, often depriving himself of rest and comfort -after a hard day’s journey to afford his faithful companion abundance of -food and water. It is not at all surprising, therefore, to hear the -bard—all Llaneros are poets more or less—exclaim, after the loss of -both his wife and valued horse:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Mi muger y mi caballo<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Se me murieron á un tiempo;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Que muger, ni que demonio,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Mi caballo es lo que siento.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">My wife and my valued horse<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Died both at the same time;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">To the devil with my wife,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For my horse do I repine.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span></p> - -<p>Few people in the world are better riders than the Llaneros of -Venezuela, if we except perhaps the Gauchos of Buenos Ayres, or equal to -either in the dexterity they display in the wonderful feats of -horsemanship to which their occupations in the field inure them from -childhood. Their horses, moreover, are so well trained to the various -evolutions of their profession, that animal and rider seem to possess -but one existence.</p> - -<p>The life of the Llanero, like that of the Gaucho his prototype, is -singularly interesting, and resembles in many respects that of others -who, like them, have their abode in the midst of extensive plains. Thus -they have been aptly styled the Cossacks and the Arabs of the New World, -with both of whom they have many points in common, but more especially -do they resemble the last named. When visiting the famous Constantine -Gallery of paintings at Versailles, I was struck with the resemblance of -the Algerine heroes of Horace Vernet with our own, revealing at once the -Moorish descent of the latter, independently of other characteristic -peculiarities.</p> - -<p>The inimitable author of “Journeys Across The Pampas,” already quoted, -alluding to the life of these wild shepherds of the plains, compares it -very appropriately to the rise and progress of a young eagle, so -beautifully described by Horace in the following verses:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Olim juventas et patrius vigor<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Nidum laborum propulit inscium;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Vernique, jam nimbis remotis,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Insolitos docuere nisus<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span><br /></span> -<span class="i0">Venti paventem; mox in ovilia<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Demisit hostem vividus impetus;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Nunc in reluctantes dracones<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Egit amor dapis atque pugnæ.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i3">—<span class="smcap">Horace</span>, Book iv., Ode iv.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i8">“Whom native vigor, and the rush<br /></span> -<span class="i8">Of youth have spurr’d to quit the nest,<br /></span> -<span class="i6">And skies of blue, in springtide’s flush,<br /></span> -<span class="i8">Entice aloft to breast<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The gales he fear’d before his lordly plumes were drest.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i8">“Now swooping, eager for his prey,<br /></span> -<span class="i8">Spreads havoc through the flutter’d fold;<br /></span> -<span class="i6">Straight, fired by love of food and fray,<br /></span> -<span class="i8">In grapple fierce and bold,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The struggling dragons rends, e’en in their rocky hold.”<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i12">—<span class="smcap">Translation by Martin.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>“Born in the rude hut, the infant Gaucho receives little attention, but -is left to swing from the roof in a bullock’s hide, the corners of which -are drawn towards each other by four strips of hide. In the first year -of his life he crawls about without clothes, and I have more than once -seen a mother give a child of this age a sharp knife, a foot long, to -play with. As soon as he walks, his infantine amusements are those which -prepare him for the occupations of his future life; with a lazo made of -twine he tries to catch little birds, or the dogs, as they walk in and -out of the hut. By the time he is four years old he is on horseback, and -immediately becomes useful by assisting to drive the cattle into the -corral.”</p> - -<p>When sufficiently strong to cope with a wild animal,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> the young Llanero -is taken to the <i>majada</i> or great cattle-pen, and there hoisted upon the -bare back of a fierce young bull. With his face turned towards the -animal’s tail, which he holds in lieu of bridle, and his little legs -twisted around the neck of his antagonist, he is whirled round and round -at a furious rate. His position, as may be imagined, is any thing but -equestrian; yet, the fear of coming in contact with the bull’s horns -compels the rider to hold on until, by a dexterous twist of the animal’s -tail while he jumps off its back, he succeeds in overturning his -antagonist.</p> - -<p>In proportion as he grows older and stronger, a more manly amusement is -afforded him with the breaking in of a wild colt. This being, however, a -more dangerous experiment, in which many a “young eagle” is rendered a -“lame duck,” he is provided with the necessary accoutrements to -withstand the terrible struggle with the animal. Firmly seated upon his -back and brandishing overhead a tough <i>chaparro</i> vine for a whip, the -apprentice is thus installed in his new office, from which he must not -descend until the brute is perfectly subdued; the coil of lazo in the -hands of his merciless instructor would be the least evil awaiting him -should he otherwise escape safe and sound from the desperate kicks and -plunges of the horse.</p> - -<p>Here commences what we may term, the public life of the Llanero; his -education is now considered complete. From this moment all his endeavors -and ambition will be to rival his companions in the display of physical -force, which he shows to an admirable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> degree when, armed with his tough -lazo, he pursues the wild animals of his domain. If a powerful bull or -wild horse tries to escape into the open plain, the cavalier unfurls the -noose which is always ready by his side, and the fugitive is quickly -brought back to the corral. Should the thong give way under the -impetuous flight of the animal, the rider seizes him by the tail, and -whirling round suddenly, pulls towards him with so much force as to -cause his immediate overthrow.</p> - -<p>In all these exercises the roving cavalier of the Llanos acquires that -feeling of security and enduring disposition for which he is famous. -Unfortunately, it is often turned to account in disturbing the balance -of power among his more enlightened countrymen; for he is always ready -to join the first revolutionary movement offering him the best chances -for equipping himself with arms of all descriptions. Next to the horse, -the Llanero esteems those weapons which give him a superiority over his -fellow-creatures, viz., a lance, a blunderbuss, and a fine sword. If he -is unprovided with either of these, he considers himself a miserable and -degraded being, and all his efforts will tend to gratify this favorite -vanity, even at the risk of his own life. Therefore he goes to war, -because he is sure, if victorious, of finding the battle-field covered -with these tempting trophies of his ambition. In this, unfortunately, he -is too often encouraged by a host of unprincipled politicians who, not -wishing to earn a livelihood by fair means, are eternally plotting -against the powers that be.</p> - -<p>The style of sword worn by the Llaneros differs<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> little from that used -by Spaniards of the middle ages, the hilt being surmounted by a guard in -the shape of a reversed cup, affording an excellent protection to the -hand that wields it, while the blade is made with two edges, instead of -one. Most of these swords are mounted in silver, the same as the -accompanying dagger, another of their favorite weapons; and such is the -passion among Llaneros for glittering swords and daggers, that they -would sooner dispense with a house or a corral, than with either of -these expensive commodities.</p> - -<p>The lance comes next in importance, and in their hands is quite a -formidable weapon, which they are enabled to handle with great -dexterity, from their constant practice with the <i>garrocha</i> or goad with -which they drive and turn the cattle. As an element of war, the lance -has become celebrated in the country, having rendered the cause of -Independence the most effectual service in repelling the attacks of the -sanguinary hosts sent by Spain against the indomitable “Rebeldes” of -Colombia.</p> - -<p>The <i>trabuco</i> or blunderbuss, too, is held in great estimation as a -weapon of defence, or rather of aggression, as they are at all times -ready to test its powers on the slightest provocation; and nobody thinks -of travelling in that desert country without one of these wide-mouthed -spitfires by his side.</p> - -<p>Being rather of a superstitious turn of mind, these people believe that -by decorating their deadly weapons with some insignia of their religion, -they are rendered more effectual; the cross surmounts their swords and -daggers; while the rosary and <i>agnus Dei</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> entwine the butt-end of their -<i>trabucos</i>, when called into requisition. Thus they are emboldened to -perform acts of desperate valor which, under any other circumstances, -would be considered rash in the extreme.</p> - -<p>Such is the religious faith of these benighted people; a religion of -form and superstition rather than conviction. Christianity, like the -Spanish language, exists among them, it is true; but corrupted and -enveloped in dark superstition, almost bordering on idolatry. It cannot, -however, be expected that a widely scattered population over so -extensive an area of desert plains, should possess any means of -enlightenment beyond what is conveyed to them through the few teachers -distributed among the principal towns of the interior. Therefore it is -not an unusual thing to meet with persons owning extensive cattle farms, -and even holding important commissions in the army, who cannot read or -write. During the good old times of the Capuchin Missions, the youth of -the villages under their control received at their hands a scanty -education, principally in the primary notions of the catechism; but with -the destruction of those beneficent establishments, during the -protracted struggle between natives and Spaniards, they were replunged -into utter ignorance, and most of their places of worship have long -since gone to decay. They have retained, nevertheless, enough of the -extravagant notions of that school to establish a creed singularly at -variance with the teachings of the Gospel, and founded principally on a -belief in saints and amulets. The latter consist in little trinkets -wrought<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span> in gold or silver; or written orisons carefully preserved in -leathern bags and worn suspended from their rosaries around their necks. -Most of these orisons are the more extravagant from the fact they have -no meaning whatever; yet this very obscurity seems to attach greater -value to them, their principal charm consisting, as they say, in their -mysterious import.</p> - -<p>Great faith is also placed in certain prayers which are supposed to have -the power of driving away the Devil, curing diseases and averting all -kinds of evil.</p> - -<p>As regards their Creator, they only have some vague ideas; they believe, -for instance, in one God; <i>mais voila tout</i>. They seem to entertain -greater fear of Beelzebub and Death personified, both of whom they -imagine to possess undisputed sway over His creatures. The first they -fancy to be fashioned with horns, hoofs, and claws like some of their -wild beasts. Their ideas of death are no less extravagant. A respectable -old gentleman of my acquaintance who once found himself very low with -fever, thus related his experience respecting this fearful vision. -“Why!” said he to a circle of friends who came to congratulate him on -his recovery, “I had always supposed that Death was actually a horrid -skeleton skulking about the world in search of victims, and carrying in -his hand a fearful hook with which he angled for us as we do for fish. -No such thing, my friends, I assure you; Death, after all, is nothing -more than lack of breath;” accompanying the assertion with a gentle -pressure of his nose with his fingers and a hearty laugh.</p> - -<p>As a natural consequence, the Llaneros, in spite<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> of their bravery and -<i>sang froid</i> in other respects, entertain great fear of <i>espantos</i> or -ghosts and apparitions. One of the most popular hallucinations of this -kind is <i>la bola de fuego</i>, or “light of Aguirre the Tyrant,” as the -natives usually style it—a sort of <i>ignis fatuus</i>, arising from the -decomposition of organic substances at the bottom of certain marshes. -Superstitious imaginations, unacquainted with this phenomenon, readily -transform these gaseous exhalations into the soul of the famous Lope de -Aguirre wandering about the savannas. This adventurous individual had -the satisfaction, while he lived, of discovering the great river Amazon. -Being of a restless and bloody disposition, like all the heroes of that -epoch, he started in search of El Dorado with a powerful expedition from -Peru, which resulted in the discovery of the Father of Waters. He -stained his laurels, however, with the blood of his own daughter, as -well as with that of his companions, for which unpardonable atrocities -it is believed his accursed soul was left to wander over those countries -which he sullied with his crimes.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Now it appears before the -terrified traveller in the form of a blazing ball of fire; a minute -after it will be seen one or two miles off. If sufficiently near, the -spectator cannot fail to observe the entrails of the wicked wanderer -enveloped in the flames of this extraordinary apparition. Such is the -power of affrighted imaginations which have converted one of the -commonest phenomena of chemical action into the wildest speculation of -besotted fanaticism.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span></p> - -<p>With regard to miracles and the interposition of the saints, the names -of some of which are constantly in their mouths, the Llaneros also have -many curious notions. For every emergency of their lives there is a -special patron saint; San Pablo, like good old St. Patrick, is supposed -to have entire sway over snakes and other vermin; San Antonio, the power -of restoring stolen goods to their rightful owners; while San somebody -else that of befriending the highway robber and assassin from the -punishment of justice and violent death. As an illustration of this -fact, I will relate here an incident which I witnessed during one of -those endemic revolutions so typical of the Spanish American republics, -and which never fail to foster lawless bands of desperadoes who, under -the cover of political reforms, commit all sorts of depredations upon -the helpless inhabitants.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>JOSE URBANO, THE GUERILLA-CHIEF.</h3> - -<p class="c"><i>A digression for the sake of variety.</i></p> - -<p>Shortly after our return from the Apure, a revolution broke out among -the colored population; a class which until then had been the most -peaceful and submissive, but since perverted to such a degree as to -require all the energies and resources of the white race to save itself -from utter ruin and degradation.</p> - -<p>An ambitious demagogue, editor of a newspaper in the capital, had been -seized with the mania, so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> prevalent in South America, of becoming -President (<i>pro tem.</i>) of the Republic. To this end, he spared no means -in recommending himself to the public, through the columns of his paper, -heaping at the same time all kinds of slander and abuse upon those who -stood in his way. Finding, however, little coöperation from the better -class of the community, he experienced no scruple in courting the favor -of the colored population, who, he readily persuaded, “had a perfect -right to share in the gains and property of their aristocratic masters.” -The Government was powerless in arresting the spirit of revolt which was -daily being infused among the masses, as the Constitution allowed -perfect freedom of the press, and the good citizens did not care to take -the matter into their own hands. The consequence was, a fearful outbreak -among the lower classes, backed by all the <i>tramposos</i> or broken-down -speculators of the country, proclaiming community of property, and the -ci-devant editor (who, by the way, had not a <i>sous</i> to stake in it) -candidate for the next Presidency of the Republic. The revolt soon -spread to the Llaneros, by far the most to be feared in the matter of -hard blows; and although it was quelled in time through the efforts of -General Paez, it sowed the seeds of discontent which have since brought -forth to the country an abundant crop of revenge, violence, and rapine. -It was during that campaign the incident I am about to relate occurred -in the savannas of San Pablo.</p> - -<p>We had just encamped for the night on the beautiful plain of Morrocoyes, -not far from our place, when a messenger arrived to apprise the General -that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span> the famous José Urbano, leader of a band of robbers who had -committed several wanton murders in that neighborhood, had crossed over -to San Pablo under cover of night. The General immediately despatched a -dozen of his men after the banditti, with positive orders to follow up -the <i>rastro</i> or trail to the world’s end if necessary, and not return to -his presence without the body of the leader, <i>muerto ó vivo</i>, dead or -alive. To any other set of men less accustomed to the wild pursuits of -the Llanos, this would have appeared an impossibility in a country like -San Pablo, traversed in all directions by numerous cross-ways made by -the cattle; but the instinct of those men in tracking runaways as well -as stray animals, is truly wonderful. Although the plain was covered -with the footprints of twenty thousand animals roaming wild over the -savannas, they followed close on the heels of the banditti, until they -fell in, unfortunately, with another trail left by some <i>vaqueros</i>. The -night was very dark, and they easily mistook this for that of the enemy. -As a matter of course it led them to a ranch where the unlucky -<i>vaqueros</i> were amusing themselves at the game of monte. Without -stopping to ascertain who the gamblers were, the troop charged in the -midst of them, killing two or three innocent fellows, and dispersing the -rest like a herd of wild sheep. The aggressors did not discover their -mistake until one of the fugitives, who happened to be acquainted with -the party, recognized the voice of the commander, and shouted to him to -stop the carnage.</p> - -<p>After this unfortunate encounter, it may be easy to conceive that the -troopers were not slow in retracing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> their steps in search of the cause -of their mistake; this time, however, with more prudence, carefully -examining every trail until they found the right one. It led them to -another ranch where Urbano was spending the evening in the society of -one of his numerous sweethearts. Here they all dismounted very quietly, -and leaving the horses in charge of two companions, they rushed into the -ranch with a wild shout and lance in hand. The attack was so sudden, -that most of the banditti were either killed or dispersed before they -had time to seize their arms. Only their gallant leader stood at bay -against tremendous odds, defending himself bravely for a long time with -the assistance of his equally courageous sweetheart, who kept all the -while urging him on like a tigress.</p> - -<p>Overpowered at last by a superior force, and faint with the loss of -blood from numerous wounds, the bandit fell at the feet of his sable -Amazon. When raised, an amulet was found between his teeth so firmly -held, that it required the united efforts of two men to remove it. On -being opened, it was found to contain a written orison, shrouded in such -mysterious language as would have defied the skill of a magician to -decipher. This, I was informed, was the famous <i>Oracion del Justo Juez</i>, -a singular misnomer for a talisman intended to befriend these <i>gente non -sancta</i> in their marauding expeditions.</p> - -<p>It was a lucky thing for the assailants that Urbano received at the -outset a severe cut on his right arm, causing an immediate flow of blood -which filled the pan of his <i>trabuco</i>, otherwise the affair would have -terminated very differently. The ignition of the powder<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span> was thus -prevented just as he was in the act of discharging the contents of that -engine of destruction amidst the group.</p> - -<p>The body of the culprit was now tied on the back of a horse and conveyed -to the presence of the General, as an atonement for the unfortunate -mistake which had deprived him of the services of two or three valuable -hands.</p> - -<p>The news of this adventure spread as if by magic over the surrounding -country and brought together great numbers of <i>curiosos</i>, among them, no -doubt, many of Urbano’s adherents, who might have discredited the -statement. The General improved the opportunity to address them an -impressive homily, ordering at the same time the mutilated body of the -renowned bandit to be exposed on the public road for twenty-four hours, -as a warning to others with similar proclivities.</p> - -<p>The death of this man, considered invulnerable by the superstitious -children of the Llanos, produced a more powerful impression upon them -than if a great battle had been fought and won. Next day, hundreds of -<i>facciosos</i>, availing themselves of a general amnesty granted by the -Commander-in-Chief to repentant revolutionists, began to arrive from -various quarters and gave in their submission.</p> - -<p>Thus ended for the time being one of the most dangerous outbreaks that -had ever occurred in the country, from the nature of the principles -involved. As to the originator, he was subsequently eclipsed by a bolder -political aspirant, the ever-memorable José T. Monagas. This worthy, of -whom more especial<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> mention will be made hereafter, and who, in an evil -hour for his country, was called to fill the chair of State, profiting -by the condition of anarchy in which the other had plunged the nation, -afterwards shot down the Representatives of the people in Congress -assembled, and proclaimed himself absolute ruler, thus leaving the other -ambitious pretender to exclaim with the poet:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Hos ego versiculos feci, tulit alter honores.”</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">SCENES AT THE FISHERY.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Four</span> days we remained at San Pablo making arrangements for the -contemplated expedition to the Apure; but the horses being quartered at -considerable distance, we removed to La Yegüera, a small farm within the -estate exclusively devoted to the breeding of those animals. Great -numbers of mules were also raised there, which made the equine stock -amount to nearly three thousand animals of all ages. There, untrammelled -by barriers of any kind, they roamed at will over those beautiful -meadows in a semi-wild state; their only keeper was a half-breed, who -with his family occupied the Ranch, which on that occasion was to -shelter us also. This Ranch being too small, however, for the -accommodation of the whole party, most of them bivouacked in a grove of -lofty Cesalpinias and Carob trees, from whose spreading branches they -slung their hammocks, the dense foliage forming a sufficient shelter -from the heavy dews of night and the heat of the sun by day.</p> - -<p>Our Leader, the Doctor, and myself, were domiciled<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> at the Ranch. Having -the full range of the neighboring groves during the day, we had then no -occasion to use our single apartment, already partially occupied with -the culinary utensils and other wares of the family. But on retiring to -our hammocks at night, the scene presented was rather ludicrous. In the -same room allotted to us slept the keeper, his wife, and their numerous -progeny, with all the dogs and chickens of the household huddled -together in the most familiar manner. Notwithstanding, I will confess -that the arrangement was not altogether disagreeable to me, as in close -propinquity slept two of the prettiest damsels I had yet encountered in -that region, with eyes brilliant enough to render other light -superfluous. The only important hindrance to my nightly repose was the -occasional flapping of wings and the hourly crowing of our host’s -favorite gamecock, tied directly under my hammock, and who served for -clock and night-watchman to the establishment.</p> - -<p>Agapito, our host, had an easy time as overseer of this domain, his only -occupation being from time to time to scour the savannas in search of -young foals which might have been attacked by the <i>gusano</i>. This is the -larvæ of a species of fly deposited in the umbilical cord of the new -born, and which, if not promptly removed, will eat into the very vitals. -It is fortunately not difficult to destroy them by the use of powdered -<i>cebadilla</i>, the seed of a liliaceous plant (Veratrum cebadilla) -abounding in veratrine. For this purpose, the keeper is always provided -with a horn filled with the poisonous drug, and a wooden spatula.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span> With -the latter he digs out the worms and fills the wound with the powder to -prevent a renewal of their attacks.</p> - -<p>Groves and meadows unequalled for their luxuriance and natural beauty -surrounded us on all sides, while numerous springs and rivulets, issuing -from the foot of the terrace-like <i>Mesas</i>, rushed down the declivity of -the plain, increasing the volume of the beautiful Guárico on whose banks -stood the primitive abode of our unsophisticated host. This river is -justly celebrated for the abundance and superiority of its fish; so, -without delay, providing myself with hook and line, I proceeded thither, -being anxious to procure specimens for my sketch-book, and also a -substitute for our daily fare of beef. But, strange to relate, each time -I dropped hook in the water, it was carried away in some mysterious -manner, without the least motion being imparted to the float. My tackle, -which I had brought from England, although arranged for fly-fishing, was -capable of bearing a fish of many pounds weight; but as I soon lost all -my stock in hand in the vain endeavor to secure my specimens, I gave up -in disgust and returned to the Ranch that the mystery might, if -possible, be explained. On seeing my slender lines, mine host with a -broad grin facetiously remarked that they were good to play at fishing -with, the only drawback to the amusement being that the <i>caribe</i>, a fish -not larger than a perch, would carry off all my playthings. Impossible, -said I; the lines are strong enough to lift you out of the water if -necessary; to this he quietly replied, directing my attention to a -mutilated finger of his right<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span> hand, “Do you see this? well, not long -ago I was washing my hands in the river after slaughtering a calf, when -a caribe darted at my finger and carried off a part before I was even -aware of his approach.” Here was a serious obstacle to my favorite -sport, and to the pleasure that Mr. Thomas and I had anticipated in -sketching the various kinds of fish peculiar to that region. -Fortunately, a short distance down the river was a fishing encampment -provided with all the necessary appliances for obtaining the fish in -large quantities. Of these we resolved to avail ourselves; but as -several others of our party were equally interested, our leader -despatched a messenger to the fishermen, inviting them to come up the -river with their nets, and fish in our presence. To this they readily -acceded, and soon after made their appearance paddling themselves over -the water in four large canoes laden, among other things, with their -<i>chinchorros</i> or seines, which they at once proceeded to spread across -the stream, covering a deep <i>charco</i> or pool known to contain abundance -of fish. Although the river at this season was very low, owing to the -usual summer drought, pools of considerable depth were left at -intervals, and in these the fish sought refuge in vast numbers from the -season’s heat and from the eager pursuit of the fishermen, of which the -latter sang, while spreading their seines, in the following lines:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Guavina le dijo á Bagre<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Vámonos al caramero,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Porque ya viene el verano<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Y nos coge el chinchorrero.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span></p> - -<p>As the nets were dragged towards each other, the fish could be seen by -thousands moving within the space embraced by the seines. Indeed, so -numerous were they, that it soon became impossible to pull them in shore -without previously relieving them of a portion of their contents. -Accordingly, some of the men, armed with throw-nets, harpoons, and -<i>bicheros</i>—these last large hooks affixed to wooden handles—plunged -into the midst of the finny multitude, and commenced an onslaught on the -largest among them. Presently one of the men came out with a monstrous -fellow of the catfish tribe beautifully striped like a Bengal tiger, and -like him having a thick snout furnished with long barbs. This species is -called the <i>bagre rayado</i> or striped catfish, and is much esteemed by -people of all classes as a substitute for beef during Lent. Large -quantities are salted and sent at that time to the capital and other -cities, where, under the name of <i>pescado llanero</i>, it forms one of the -delicacies of the season. Some of these fish attain an enormous size, -measuring five, six, and even seven feet in length, and are so fat that -a single one is a load for two men.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_6" id="ill_6"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b061_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b061_sml.jpg" width="273" height="110" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>In diving with the <i>bichero</i>, much caution was necessary on the part of -the men lest they should be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> hooked by their hasty companions in lieu of -the fish. A more important source of anxiety to the divers, was several -dangerous fish among the multitude struggling in the water, such as the -Ray-fish, whose tail is furnished with a sting three inches long, with -which it inflicts a very painful wound; Electric eels, whose touch alone -will paralyze in an instant the muscles of the strongest man; the -Payara, shaped somewhat like a sabre, and equally dangerous. The lower -jaw of this last is furnished with a formidable pair of fangs, not -unlike those of the rattlesnake; with these it inflicts as smooth a gash -as if cut with a razor; and finally, the <i>caribe</i>, whose ravenous and -bloodthirsty propensities have caused it to be likened to the cannibal -tribe of Indians, once the terror of those regions, but now scattered -over the towns and villages along the course of the Orinoco. Each time -the nets were hauled in shore, half a dozen or more of these little -pests were to be seen jumping in the crowd, their jaws wide open tearing -whatever came in their way, especially the meshes of the nets, which -they soon rendered useless. Their sharp triangular teeth, arranged in -the same manner as those of the shark, are so strong, that neither -copper, steel, nor twine can withstand them. The sight of any red -substance, blood especially, seems to rouse their sanguinary appetite; -and as they usually go in swarms, it is extremely dangerous for man or -beast to enter the water with even a scratch upon their bodies. Horses -wounded with the spur are particularly exposed to their attacks, and so -rapid is the work of destruction, that unless immediate assistance is -rendered, the fish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> soon penetrate the abdomen of the animal and -speedily reduce it to a skeleton; hence, doubtless, their appellation of -<i>mondonguero</i>—tripe-eater. There are other varieties of the <i>caribe</i> in -the rivers of the Llanos, but none so bold and bloodthirsty as this -glutton of the waters. So abundant is this species in some rivers of the -Apure, that it is a common saying among Llaneros: “there is more -<i>caribe</i> than water.”</p> - -<p><a name="ill_7" id="ill_7"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b063_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b063_sml.jpg" width="256" height="122" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>Every feature of this miniature cannibal denotes the ferocity and -sanguinary nature of its tastes. The piercing eye, surrounded by a -bloody-looking ring, is expressive of its cruel and bloodthirsty -disposition. Its under jaw, lined with a thick cartilaginous membrane -which adds greatly to its strength, protrudes considerably beyond the -upper, giving, as this formation of jaw does to all animals possessing -it, likewise an expression of ferocity. Large spots of a brilliant -orange hue cover a great portion of its body, especially the belly, -fins, and tail. Toward the back, it is of a bluish ash color, with a -slight tint of olive green, the intermediate spaces being of a pearly -white, while<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> the gill-covers are tinged with red. The inhabitants being -often compelled to swim across streams infested with them, entertain -more fear of these little creatures than of that world-renowned monster, -the crocodile. This last, although a formidable antagonist in the water, -can be easily avoided and even conquered in single combat by daring men, -while the former, from their diminutive size and greater numbers, can do -more mischief in a short time than a legion of crocodiles.</p> - -<p>The other kinds of caribe, although larger in size, are less dangerous -than the preceding, and some even perfectly harmless. Among these, the -black caribe of the Apure and Orinoco rivers is considered dainty -eating. The <i>caribito</i> is also a harmless pretty little fish, with back -of a fine green color, and belly white with occasional streaks of pink.</p> - -<p>In spite, however, of all these vicious creatures, and the great depth -of the water, the fishermen accomplished their work in a manner that -would have done credit to the fearless pearl-divers of the ocean, more -especially the swimmers, who are constantly in danger from some of the -fish while gliding through the water in their pursuit. Those in the -canoes were, of course, less liable to be attacked, although it often -happened that a <i>payara</i>, being peculiarly adapted for darting out of -the water, would clear the nets with a spring and fall in the midst of -the paddlers, causing a momentary confusion among them. My attention was -particularly attracted to the skill of the men in throwing their hand -nets, sometimes lying on their stomach on the surface of the water, -their hands encumbered with the nets; others would stand perfectly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> -erect, half their bodies out of water, and without any footing to serve -them as <i>point d’appui</i>. In the same manner, those whose business it was -to drive the fish towards the seines, managed their huge batons, and all -apparently without the least inconvenience. Suddenly their labors were -interrupted by a serious obstacle in the shape of a <i>caiman</i> or -alligator struggling hard between the nets to regain his freedom. Here -was a sufficient test of the courage and ability of the fishers. If the -monster remained, he would not only endanger the nets, but also the -progress of the men through the water, they being liable at any moment -to come in contact with his powerful jaws. It was therefore decided to -get rid of the intruder at all hazards. To accomplish this, a lazo was -procured, and to the astonishment of all the <i>blancos</i> present, a man -went down with it to the bottom in search of the monster, with the -avowed object of lazoing him under the water. After a few moments of, to -us, most anxious suspense, but which the hardy fishermen regarded as -child’s play, their companion rose to the surface panting for breath, -not yet having ascertained the precise position of his intended victim. -After inhaling sufficient air, the diver again disappeared, coming up in -due time with the glad tidings that the enemy was captured, in proof -whereof he handed us the other end of the lazo that we might drag him -out. This was no easy task, as these reptiles, by their peculiar -conformation, have immense power while under water, and it required the -united efforts of all on shore to land him. This accomplished, we were -perplexed in what manner to despatch him, as no steel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> instrument can -penetrate the thick cuirass of the <i>caiman</i>, except it be in the -armpits; but so violent were his struggles, that it was impossible to -strike him there. At last the Doctor, more sagacious than the rest of us -in anatomical operations, plunged a harpoon into the nape of the neck. -The effect was that of paralyzing at once the movements of the prisoner, -after which he was easily stabbed.</p> - -<p>The manner in which our gallant diver accomplished his daring feat was -thus explained by his companions; the <i>caiman</i>, like the domestic hog, -is said to delight in being scratched about the ribs,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> and of this -the diver perhaps availed himself in order to place the noose around his -neck, being very careful to approach him from behind, as it is a -well-known fact that these reptiles, owing to the nature of their collar -vertebræ, cannot easily turn round. The alligator is not so dangerous as -its congener the crocodile of the Orinoco and its tributaries; few real -crocodiles ever ascend the Guarico as far as San Pablo. However, a case -had occurred here not long before, when a man disappeared under rather -mysterious circumstances, and there was good reason to surmise that his -loss was due to one of these gentry. It appears that the seines, being -entangled around a snag at the bottom of the river, a man was, as usual, -sent to remove the obstruction; considerable time elapsing without his -reappearance, his comrades, seriously alarmed, instituted a diligent -search, but no vestige of the unfortunate man was ever discovered. It -never occurred<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span> to his friends that he might have fallen a prey to a -crocodile, and the calamity was universally ascribed to the supernatural -influence of some evil genii of the deep. From that time, the spot has -borne the ominous name of the <i>Encantado</i> or haunted pool.</p> - -<p>All obstructions to the progress of the nets were at length removed, and -a sufficient quantity of fish having been taken therefrom, we all -assisted in pulling them in, and a few moments afterwards had the -satisfaction of beholding the sand banks on which we were, strewn with -the proceeds of the two seines.</p> - -<p>It would be impossible to convey an adequate idea of the singular forms -and brilliant hues of most of these fish, all new to me. The <i>Cherna</i>, -in particular, attracted my attention from their abundance and peculiar -formation. Some attain a large size, weighing as much as a hundred -pounds, and their flesh is so delicate as to deserve the appellation of -river veal. The mouth is comparatively small, and set with a row of -teeth bearing a strong resemblance to those of the human species.</p> - -<p>The fishing having been solely for our amusement, and more game obtained -than we required for our consumption, some was distributed among the -people of the neighborhood who had collected to witness the sport, and -the remainder given to the fishermen, who received besides a handsome -compensation for their trouble in coming so far from their encampment.</p> - -<p>During the distribution of the fish, a singular incident took place -which illustrates at once the tenacity of life with which reptiles are -endowed, and the electrical powers of that most singular creature, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span> -gymnotus or electric eel. A boy had discovered one of these among the -heap of fish on the beach, and was dragging it along by means of a -<i>bichero</i> to avoid the shocks, when the body of the eel came -accidentally in contact with the carcass of the <i>caiman</i>. This last, -which, after the rough treatment it had received from our medical -adviser, was supposed to be quite dead, much to the surprise of all, -opened his huge jaws and closed them with a loud crash. The Doctor, -especially, who, from his professional knowledge in surgical operations, -had pronounced it beyond recovery, was the loudest in his expressions of -astonishment at this unexpected turn. It was, however, merely a -convulsive movement, induced by contact with the eel, and similar to -that produced on the limbs of a frog by a galvanic current; for, -afterward, the reptile remained without further signs of returning life. -Science will, ere long, take advantage of the electric eel.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_8" id="ill_8"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b068_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b068_sml.jpg" width="281" height="195" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span></p> - -<p>I would here most willingly entertain my readers with an account of the -nature and habits of these “animal electrical machines,” had not the -great Humboldt already elucidated the subject in the most comprehensive -and brilliant manner. To his admirable works I will therefore refer the -reader for a full and graphic description of this, one of the most -curious of fish. It was in one of the numerous tributary creeks of this -river, that the distinguished traveller procured the gymnoti for his -experiments; perhaps from amongst the progenitors of the above -mentioned. The manner in which they were obtained differed somewhat, -however, from the one adopted by us on this occasion. Knowing how -difficult it was to catch these eels on account of their extreme agility -and powerful electrical discharges, the guides collected in the savannas -a drove of wild horses, which they forced into a pool of water abounding -in gymnoti. “The extraordinary noise caused by the horses’ hoofs makes -the fish issue from the mud and excites them to attack. The yellowish -and livid eels, resembling large aquatic serpents, swim on the surface -of the water and crowd under the bellies of the horses and mules. A -contest between animals of so different an organization presents a very -striking spectacle. The Indians, provided with harpoons and long slender -reeds, surround the pool closely, and some climb up the trees, the -branches of which extend horizontally over the surface of the water. By -their wild cries, and the length of their reeds, they prevent the horses -from running away and reaching the bank of the pool. The eels, stunned -by the noise, defend themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span> by the repeated discharge of their -electric batteries. For a long interval they seem likely to prove -victorious. Several horses sink beneath the violence of the invisible -strokes which they receive from all sides in organs the most essential -to life; and stunned by the force and frequency of the shocks, they -disappear under water.”</p> - -<p>“I wish,” adds the traveller, “that a clever artist could have depicted -the most animated period of the attack; the group of Indians surrounding -the pond, the horses with their manes erect and eyeballs wild with pain -and fright, striving to escape from the electric storm which they had -roused, and driven back by the shouts and long whips of the excited -Indians; the livid yellow eels, like great water snakes, swimming near -the surface and pursuing their enemy; all these objects presented a most -picturesque and exciting ‘ensemble.’ In less than five minutes two -horses were killed; the eel, being more than five feet in length, glides -beneath the body of the horse and discharges the whole length of its -electric organ. It attacks, at the same time, the heart, the digestive -viscera, and the cœliac fold of the abdominal nerves. I thought the -scene would have a tragic termination, and expected to see most of the -quadrupeds killed; but the Indians assured me that the fishing would -soon be finished, and that only the first attack of the gymnoti was -really formidable. In fact, after the conflict had lasted a quarter of -an hour, the mules and horses appeared less alarmed; they no longer -erected their manes, and their eyes expressed less pain and terror. One -no longer saw them struck<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> down in the water, and the eels, instead of -swimming to the attack, retreated from their assailants and approached -the shore. The Indians now began to use their missiles; and by means of -the long cord attached to the harpoon, jerked the fish out of the water -without receiving any shock so long as the cord was dry.”</p> - -<p>The electric eel, although much dreaded by man, is greatly esteemed by -gourmands. It is necessary, however, to deprive the fish of those parts -constituting the electrical apparatus, which are rather spongy and -unpalatable. So perfect a machine is this curious organ, that Faraday -succeeded—by insulation of the animal electricity and a most ingenious -apparatus devised by him—in obtaining a spark with which he ignited a -spoonful of gunpowder. But there are several varieties of the fish which -do not possess this peculiarity.</p> - -<p>Among the promiscuous assemblage of fish scattered on the sand beach, -ready to transfix the hand that might inadvertently touch them, were -many sting-rays. This species, like its prototype the famous Manta-fish -of the Caribbean Sea, is quite circular and flat, with a tail over a -foot in length, very thick at the base and tapering towards the end. -Near the middle on the upper part, it is armed with a long and -sharp-pointed bone or sting, finely serrated on two sides, which the -fish can raise or lay flat at will. When disturbed, the ray, by a quick -movement of the tail, directs its sting towards the object, which it -seldom fails to reach. The wound thus inflicted is so severe, that the -whole nervous system is convulsed, the person becoming rigid and -benumbed in a few<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> moments. Even long after the violent effects of the -wound have subsided, the part affected retains a sluggish ulceration, -which has in many instances baffled the skill of the best surgeons. Some -creeks and lagoons of stagnant water are so infested with them, that it -is almost certain destruction to venture into them. They usually -frequent the shallow banks of muddy pools, where they may be seen at all -times watching for prey; and, as if conscious of their powers, scarcely -deign to move off when approached by man. They, also, are considered -good eating, on which account they frequently fall a prey to hungry boys -and vultures, who wage constant war upon them with spear and talon.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Mr. Thomas and I had plenty of occupation in sketching the various -specimens before us; but the speedy approach of night compelled us to -relinquish our agreeable pastime; thus many curious fish which we would -have liked to preserve, had to be consigned to the frying-pan instead of -to our portfolios.</p> - -<p>In the mean time our able cook, Mónico, and half a dozen of Llanero -assistants—all of whom are more or less accomplished in the art of -cooking in their own peculiar style—were busily engaged throughout the -afternoon preparing the spoils of the day for our supper. A fat calf was -also killed in honor of the occasion, and roasted before a blazing fire -under the trees. The Llaneros are quite skilled in roasting an ox or -calf, which they divide in sections according to the flavor of each -particular morceau. These they string upon long wooden spits, and keep -them turning before the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span> fire until sufficiently cooked. The ribs of the -animal, taken out entire, usually form the most favorite morsel; but I -would recommend to future travellers in that country the <i>entreverado</i>, -made up of the animal’s entrails, such as the liver, heart, lungs, and -kidneys, cut into pieces of convenient size and spitted; then enveloped -in the fat mesenteric membrane of the animal, and cooked in its own -juices.</p> - -<p>In addition to this abundant supply of <i>carne asada</i>, we had fish in -every style, smoked, broiled, <i>en sancocho</i>, (bouilli,) &c., with plenty -of bread prepared by the wife and daughters of our equerry. Just as -every one had eaten, as he supposed, his fill, one of our assistants -made his appearance bending under the weight of a boiling caldron -containing a rich bouilli of cherna heads, and urged us to partake of -his humble fare. Although this was rather reversing the order of -courses, we were finally prevailed upon to <i>taste</i> the soup he had -prepared with so much care for us; and no sooner was the rich broth -tasted by our epicurean party, than it was forthwith devoured with -unimpaired appetites; but my enjoyment of the broth was somewhat spoiled -by coming in contact with a row of omniverous-looking teeth, which so -reminded me of a human skull, that I was constrained to throw my portion -away, although I must confess that I never tasted soup superior to it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">WILD HORSES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> fishing over, the main object of our expedition to La Yegüera was -next attended to, namely, that of adding to our <i>madrina</i> of -supernumerary horses from the abundant stock of this farm. An entire day -was passed in riding through its enchanting groves and meadows, -inspecting the numerous droves of mares, guarded by their proud -<i>padrotes</i> or stallions. Each troop is under the control of one of -these, who not only prevent their mingling with other packs, but -endeavor also to appropriate all the other mares they can kidnap from -their neighbors. The conquest, however, is not obtained without a -determined resistance from their rightful lords, which occasions fierce -combats between the rivals. When any stranger approaches, the whole -troop boldly advances towards the object of their alarm, neighing, -snorting, and throwing their slim and beautiful forms into the most -graceful attitudes. When at the distance of a hundred paces, they all -halt, and five or six scouts are detached from the main body to -reconnoitre. These<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> approach still nearer, and stretching their necks -and ears, seem, with wild glance and cautious movement, to inquire from -the stranger the object of this intrusion, while, in the mean time, the -stallion keeps the whole troop in readiness for retreat in case of -pursuit. When this last occurs, the scouts hastily incorporate -themselves with the main body, while the stallion orders the retreat as -skilfully as a good general might under similar circumstances, stopping -occasionally to watch the enemy’s movements, but never resuming the lead -until the troop is out of danger. When thus wildly coursing over the -prairies in packs of one or two hundred, headed by their respective -stallions, inspired, as it were, by the freedom of the plain, nothing -can surpass their magnificent appearance, nor the proud air of liberty -with which they snuff the passing breeze. We one day brought to the -Ranch a large drove, from which we selected those required for the -expedition. This occupied the men for a couple of days, as it was -discovered that most of the animals were in bad condition from burrs and -<i>garrapatas</i>, another destructive insect peculiar to those places, of -the size and shape of a bed-bug, and very distressing to animals. It -adheres with such tenacity to the skin of the poor brutes, that it -requires to be pulled by hand in order to detach it; if left -undisturbed, it will suck the blood until its body becomes distended to -many times the natural size. It attacks all kinds of animals, but more -especially horses: these last suffer in consequence, from malignant -sores about their ears, which soon wither and drop off.</p> - -<p>The horses were so wild that they had to be broken<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span> in before they could -be of any service. This operation—which might as well be termed -breaking down horses, as a great number are ruined by it—affords the -Llaneros a fine opportunity for testing their ability in coping with -this, the most spirited animal in the world. It is also undoubtedly one -of the most difficult performances on cattle-farms, requiring strong -nerve and great skill on the part of the rider to withstand the kicks -and plunges of the animal and retain his seat. The method practised in -the Llanos differs but little from that of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, -so ably described by Sir Francis Head, Darwin, and other eminent -writers. I will quote some passages from the first of these authors -respecting this divertisement among the Gauchos; their method I -specially commend to the numerous disciples of the renowned Rarey, who -has so astonished the Old World and the New with his wonderful skill in -horse-taming.</p> - -<p>“The corral was quite full of horses, most of which were young ones, -about three and four years old. The capataz, mounted on a strong, steady -horse, rode into the corral, and threw his lazo over the neck of a young -horse, and dragged him to the gate. For some time he was very unwilling -to leave his comrades, but the moment he was forced out of the corral, -his first idea was to gallop away; however, the jerk of the lazo checked -him in a most effectual manner. The peons now ran after him on foot, and -threw the lazo over his four legs, just above the fetlocks, and -twitching it, they pulled his legs from under him so suddenly, that I -really thought the fall he got had killed him. In an instant a Gaucho -was seated upon his head, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span> with his long knife, in a few seconds he -cut off the whole of the horse’s mane, while another cut the hair from -the end of his tail. This they told me is a mark that the horse has been -once mounted. They then put a piece of hide into his mouth to serve as a -bit, and a strong hide-halter on his head. The Gaucho who was to mount, -arranged his spurs, which were unusually long and sharp, and while two -men held the animal by his ears, he put on the saddle, which he girthed -extremely tight; he then caught hold of the horse’s ear and in an -instant vaulted into the saddle; upon which the man who was holding the -horse by the halter, threw the end of it to the rider, and from that -moment no one seemed to take any further notice of him. The horse -instantly began to jump in a manner which made it very difficult for the -rider to keep his seat, and quite different from the kick or plunge of -an English horse; however, the Gaucho’s spur soon set him going, and off -he galloped, doing every thing in his power to throw his rider. Another -horse was immediately brought from the corral, and so quick was the -operation, that twelve Gauchos were mounted in a space which, I think, -hardly exceeded an hour.”</p> - -<p>“It was singular to see the different manner in which the different -horses behaved. Some would actually scream while the Gauchos were -girthing the saddle upon their backs; some would instantly lie down and -roll over it; while some would stand without being held, their legs -stiff and in unnatural directions, their necks half bent towards their -tails, and looking so vicious and sulky, that I could not help thinking -I could not have mounted one of them for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> any reward that could be -offered me; and they were invariably the most difficult to subdue.”</p> - -<p>By repeating this treatment a number of times, and a sound thrashing -with the <i>chaparro</i> whenever they prove refractory, the riders finally -succeed in conquering the indomitable spirit of their steeds, although -they long retain a vicious propensity to occasionally practise their old -tricks, either by throwing themselves backwards upon their riders, or -suddenly plunging headlong at a furious rate. Another dangerous habit is -that of whirling rapidly, when least expected, in an opposite direction -to the one intended by the rider, who, unless very expert, is unseated -and liable to have his neck broken. But, when these horses are at length -thoroughly broken in, there are few in the world capable of performing -their duty so well as those trained in the Llanos of Venezuela.</p> - -<p>My allusion on a former page to the renowned Rarey, recalls to my memory -the name of Santos Nieves, a famous picador of San Pablo, whose -ingenious mode of entrapping horses appears to have been formed on the -same principle as that which has characterized Mr. Rarey’s method.</p> - -<p>Instead of dashing after the droves, with lazo in hand, and wild shouts, -as is usual when the capture of one or more horses is intended, Santos -Nieves made use of every precaution to avoid giving these shy creatures -the least alarm; and so successfully were all his expeditions executed, -that he achieved for himself the tremendous reputation of being a -horse-witch. His plan was, however, the simplest possible. If the object -was to capture only a single animal—which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span> feat is peculiarly difficult -to accomplish in woody places especially—he made preparations as if for -a long journey, previous to seeking the haunts of his intended captive. -Having sojourned in San Pablo for over half a century, he was thoroughly -acquainted with all their accustomed places of resort. The first impulse -of the animal on finding himself followed, was to scamper off; but the -patient picador, instead of hurrying in pursuit, quietly remained on the -same spot, watching and waiting the next move of the animal. Presently -the horse, seeing he was not pursued, would conclude to return and -reconnoitre the object of his alarm. Satisfied from the quiet attitude -of the man, that nothing need be feared from him, the horse resumed his -brousing near by. Again the man cautiously and slowly advances, until -perceived anew by the horse, who, as before, beats a rapid retreat. -Impelled by curiosity, he returned for the third time; again inspects -the picador, who remains motionless as before, upon seeing which, the -animal concludes he may safely continue his meal. These manœuvrings, -again and again repeated, usually occupied an entire day, towards the -close of which, if the horse were not very scary, the picador, with -cautious approach and gentle words, succeeded in placing the halter -around his neck. The extreme coyness, however, of most of these animals, -frequently compelled Santos Nieves to camp out for the night and resume -his pursuit, not only the following morning, but, if necessary, for -three or more consecutive days, at the end of which he always returned -in triumph with his captive to the farm.</p> - -<p>The relative value of these horses depends principally<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span> on their form, -color, and gait. The Llaneros are quite skilful in teaching them a -variety of paces and evolutions, which are as essential to their -hazardous occupations, as is the helm to the mariner. For war purposes, -they are especially invaluable, as was practically demonstrated in the -long struggle with the Spaniards, who not being equally expert in the -management of their steeds, were, in consequence, often at the mercy of -their antagonists. A good charger must be endowed with an easy mouth, -good wind, and quick movement to either side, so that when pursued by an -enemy, he can be made to whirl suddenly to the attack if necessary. The -same rule applies to those used in chasing wild animals, especially -bulls, which, when hotly pursued, often face about and charge their -assailants.</p> - -<p>It is equally indispensable in warm climates, that a horse should -possess an easy gait for travelling. In this respect, they are trained -to the particular fancy or requirements of the rider. Some prefer a -gentle trot on a long journey, as being the least fatiguing to the -horse; but, for city riding, or short journeys, an amble, rack, or -<i>pasitrote</i>—something between both—is usually adopted. The test of a -good pacing horse consists in “the rider being able to carry a glass of -water in his hand without spilling,” while that of a first-rate charger -is to stop, when at the height of his speed, on the slightest pull of -the bridle.</p> - -<p>Great regard is also paid to the color of horses; piebald, cream, and -the various shades of white, are usually preferred. But, where great -endurance and strength are requisite, connoisseurs generally select<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span> -those of a darker color. Their price in the country is greatly enhanced -of late in consequence of a devastating disease, which has been raging -among them for several years past. Horses were so plentiful in the -Llanos at one time, that a large export trade in their hides was carried -on with foreign countries. A good horse, which then only brought five -dollars, now costs from eighty to one hundred, and even more, according -to the fancy of the parties interested.—Great numbers of the -inhabitants were also carried away by the same scourge, which swept over -the land like the cholera, not even sparing the fish in the rivers.</p> - -<p>This frightful epidemic, which the Llaneros have appropriately styled -<i>Peste</i>, or plague, is supposed to have originated in the great primeval -forest of San Camilo, at the head waters of the Apure, from -decomposition of the vegetable detritus accumulated there during -centuries. From thence, travelling eastward along the course of the -river, the epidemic continued its ravages among the inhabitants of the -towns and villages situated on the right bank, attacking first one place -and then another, until the whole province scarcely escaped -depopulation. Even when the mortality abated, the country, which until -then had possessed a most healthful climate, never recovered its former -salubrity; fevers of a more or less dangerous character prevail from -that time, especially towards the end of the rainy season, while the -raising of horses has been entirely abandoned in consequence.</p> - -<p>The first symptoms of the epidemic appeared among the crocodiles, whose -hideous carcasses might then be seen floating down the stream in such -prodigious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span> numbers, that both the waters and air of that fine region -were tainted with their effluvium. It was observed that they were first -seized with a violent fit of coughing, followed by a black vomit which -compelled them to quit their watery home, and finally find a grave -amongst the thickets on the river banks. The disease next attacked the -fish and other inhabitants of the water, with equal violence, until it -was feared the streams would be depopulated. The fearful mortality among -them can be better estimated from the fact that, for more than a month, -the rippling waves of that noble river, the Apure, were constantly -washing down masses of putrefaction, its placid surface being by them -actually hidden from view for several weeks.</p> - -<p>The next victims were the pachidermata of the swamps, and it was a -pitiable sight to see the sluggish <i>chigüires</i> (capyvaras) and the -grizzly wild-boars dragging their paralyzed hind-quarters after them; -hence the name of <i>derrengadera</i>, applied to this disease.</p> - -<p>Not even monkeys in their aërial retreats, escaped the contagion, and -their melancholy cries resounded day and night through the woods like -wailings of the eternally lost.</p> - -<p>It is a singular fact, that while the scourge did not spare any of the -countless droves of horses roaming the savannas of the Apure, and -adjacent plains, donkeys and horned cattle were seldom, if ever, -attacked, so that, by their aid, the owners of cattle-farms were enabled -to prevent the entire dispersion of their herds.</p> - -<p>A curious incident related in connection with this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span> public calamity, is -very current in the Llanos, respecting the origin of the disease among -horses. Eugenio Torralva, a man of uncommon industry, although of humble -extraction, had accumulated quite a handsome fortune by the raising of -cattle, on the borders of La Portuguesa; but his chief wealth consisted -in horses, on which he greatly prided himself—so much so that, on one -occasion, while a distinguished personage was passing through his -estate, Torralva directed his attention to the numerous droves grazing -in the plains; then turning to his guest, who appeared equally delighted -with the sight, said to him, “Think you, General, that I shall ever be -in want of horses? <i>Ni que Dios quiera!</i> (Not even if God Almighty -wished it!)” he blasphemously added. Two years later, the witness to -this impious boast was again on his way to the Llanos: near San Juan he -met an old man, apparently in a very destitute condition, riding a -donkey. Not knowing who the wayfarer was, he bowed, as is customary, and -rode on without taking further notice of the old man or his uncouth -equipment; whereupon the stranger, waving his hand to him, cried, “Why, -General, have you already forgotten your friend Torralva?” He that -“giveth and taketh away” had deprived him of every horse, and the once -wealthy farmer was now compelled to travel on an ass. It is asserted by -the Llaneros that soon after he uttered the above-mentioned blasphemy, -the <i>Peste</i> broke out among his immense stock, from whence they say the -disease spread to other farms, until the contagion became general.</p> - -<p>It is not a little singular that although the horse<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> was unknown to the -aborigines of America, at the time of its conquest, the researches of -Darwin and other eminent geologists have shown them to have existed in -vast numbers on that continent contemporaneously with the Mastodon, -Megatherium, Mylodon, and other extinct animals. “Certainly, it is a -marvellous fact, in the history of mammalia,” observes that assiduous -explorer, “that in South America a native horse should have lived and -disappeared, to be succeeded, in after ages, by the countless herds -descended from the few introduced by the Spanish colonists!”</p> - -<p>In general these animals are of middling size, and, like their -progenitor, the Andalusian horse, endowed with a fiery spirit, (if not -checked by ill-treatment or abuse,) and surprising endurance, especially -during the exciting chase of wild cattle, when they are kept in constant -motion for many consecutive days.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_9" id="ill_9"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b084_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b084_sml.jpg" width="336" height="195" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">ACROSS THE PAMPAS.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Early</span> in the morning of the fifth day, we left the Ranch at La Yegüera -to journey southward, followed by our long train of baggage mules and -relay horses, our good-natured host and keeper, Agapito, escorting us -for some distance in the double capacity of guide and entertainer. -Without his assistance it would have been difficult for us to proceed on -our journey, which lay across a rolling prairie, covered in some places -by magnificent groves of tall timber trees and a vast multitude of -slender, towering palms, which, by the glimmering light of the stars, -appeared like a mighty fleet of ships guarding the entrance to some -giant harbor. Although the morning was dark, and there was properly -speaking no road, but only a beaten track branching off in all -directions, our guide, who knew every inch of the ground, led us on -without once turning to the right or left, merrily chanting some of the -lively ballads of the Llanos. Occasionally he was joined by other bards -equally<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> distinguished for their powers of voice and versification, thus -producing very animated choruses of a character peculiarly wild.</p> - -<p>As the sun rose in the horizon, we came upon another extensive plateau, -the Mesa del Rastro, stretching for several miles, unbroken by a single -tree or shrub, but alive with numberless herds of cattle roaming in all -directions, while flocks of birds of every plumage, all new to me, flew -affrighted at our approach, filling the air with their wild, peculiar -cries. Among these, the Taro-taro, a large bird of the Ibis tribe, which -derives its name from its bell-like notes, and the Carretero or carter, -a beautiful species of goose with variegated plumage and crimson bill, -particularly attracted my attention. The latter is named from the -rumbling noise it makes when on the wing, similar in sound to the -rumbling of cartwheels on hard ground.</p> - -<p>Continuing our march over this seemingly interminable plain, we at -length descried in the horizon the village of El Rastro, where we -purposed breakfasting and spending the hottest part of the day. We were -cordially received and entertained at the house of Señor Llovera, a -wealthy neighbor of ours, whose lands extended from the southern -boundary of San Pablo to this village.</p> - -<p>El Rastro is noted for the beauty and fresh complexion of the women, in -spite of an ardent climate; and the males for their singular propensity -to abstract the hair from the manes and tails of horses stopping at -their village. This they often practise under the very noses of the -unfortunate owners, for the purpose<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span> of converting it into halters for -their own steeds. Thus many a fine animal, which is supposed to be -securely quartered for the night, is found next morning so shamefully -disfigured that he can scarcely be recognized by his owner, who swears -by all the saints in the calendar to take summary vengeance on the first -<i>rastrero</i><a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> who may chance to cross his path. Fortunately we had no -cause of complaint, as our droves were constantly under the -<i>surveillance</i> of a dozen or more vigilant keepers, perfectly <i>au fait</i> -to the peculiar taste of that community.</p> - -<p>The beautiful complexion of the women is the more extraordinary from the -fact that this village, which stands on the southern edge of the -plateau, is entirely exposed to the glare of a tropical sun, and the hot -breezes of the east. I nowhere met during my journey, such rosy cheeks -and sparkling eyes as in this miserable hamlet. I could almost fancy -them the fairies of the wilderness, bewitching the unsuspecting -traveller, while their perfidious helpmates practise their rascally -tricks.</p> - -<p>These high terraces possess the advantage of being free from those -noxious exhalations which render the plains below so unhealthy at -certain seasons. Owing to the nature of the soil, mostly composed of a -loose conglomerate or shingle, no permanent deposits of stagnant water -are formed, endangering the health of the inhabitants, who are often -blessed with a “green old age” and the possession of unimpaired mental -and bodily faculties. Many are the instances where<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span> men attaining -seventy and eighty years are still able to take part in the hardy -ventures of the country along with their more youthful companions. Among -our own party we had several individuals of this class who, after -experiencing all the vicissitudes of a destructive war, had seen many a -hot summer roll by, and camped out amidst the drenching showers of the -rainy season, without any material change in their physique. Of these -were Santos Nieves, the horse tamer, whose only food consisted of jerked -beef, cheese, and <i>papelon</i>, upon which he had thrived admirably up to -the age of seventy; Crisóstomo, the negro major domo of San Pablo, who -had lost all recollection of his earlier days; Conrado, the horse -driver, whose age and experience in conducting our refractory <i>madrinas</i> -had entitled him to the revered appelation of <i>taita</i> or father. But the -most extraordinary instance of longevity which has come to my ears, is -in the Monagas family, also hailing from those regions, the age and -number of whose members seriously alarmed the republic at one time; for -the multitude of their rapacious demands appeared endless. The patriarch -of the family is said to have attained the moderate age of one hundred -and twenty years, yet was able to scour the savannas on horseback after -the cattle up to the time of his death. The memorable José Tadeo, the -late Dictator and tyrant of the republic, is yet in his prime at the age -of seventy-nine, while his brothers Gregorio and José Francisco, whose -vandalic career of plunder and assassination was—happily for the -country that gave them birth—cut off by a late revolution, did not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span> -show the least signs of unabated vigor at the time of their death, -although one of them was considerably older than Tadeo. And last, though -not least, the renowned zambo general, Sotillo, the pet bull-dog of the -family, to which, however, he bears no other relationship than that -existing among rogues of the same stamp: although then in his eightieth -year, he was able to carry on a successful partisan warfare against the -existing government. Without a roof to shelter him, and no other -equipment of war than the lance and horse, this savage chieftain, for -such he is by birth and education, has set at defiance all the forces -sent in his pursuit, and nearly brought the country to the verge of -barbarism in his strivings to uphold the iniquitous claims of this -rapacious family. Fierce in looks and menacing in tone, with a head more -like a polar bear than a South American savage, he has become for a long -time the terror of the eastern provinces, which are in constant dread of -his sudden attacks—now cutting off small detachments of troops and -defenceless individuals, now retreating to his fastness amidst the arid -plains of the Alto Llano at the approach of a superior force. He has -even succeeded in defeating such on two or three occasions by his -cunning manœuvring and the rapidity of his movements. During half a -century, his favorite occupation has been hunting wild cattle and waging -a guerilla warfare against society, which too often has been compelled -to yield to the savage demands of this Bedouin of the Llanos.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Having partaken of a substantial breakfast, we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span> bade adieu to our kind -host, and again betook ourselves to our long and weary journey across -the Pampas. Descending to the plain, stretching for a thousand miles to -the foot of the Bolivian Andes, we at once entered into an entirely -different country, showing unmistakable proofs of a diluvial origin. The -soil, mostly a mixture of clay and sand, no longer offended the feet of -our horses with those extensive beds of pebbles so trying to the poor -beasts. The vegetation, also, whenever favored by some accident of the -ground, showed a marked difference in character. The thorny mimosas, -which only thrive in a gravelly soil, here disappeared altogether, and -were replaced by dense groves of laurel and other balsamiferous trees. -The Copernicia palms, so extensively used for thatching and other -economic purposes, re-appeared at first in a few scattered clumps, and -afterwards in countless multitudes, literally closing the perspective -with their tall, slender trunks. This beautiful palm is known in the -country under various names, according to the uses made of its separate -parts. These are almost as numerous as the leaves of its dense, -symmetrical foliage. Thus, by the rural architect of the Llanos, it is -called <i>palma de cobija</i>—thatch palm. When its leaves are plaited and -neatly braided into hats that never wear out, it bears the name <i>palma -de sombrero</i>; and when the same are employed in driving off the myriads -of flies that infest the premises, or in fanning the heated dweller in -those regions, it is called <i>palma abanico</i>; and so on through a long -catalogue.</p> - -<p>A house thatched with this palm is not only impervious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span> to the pouring -showers of the tropics, but against fire also, as it is nearly -incombustible: a hot coal dropped on it will only burn slowly where it -falls, without spreading or raising any flame. It is, moreover, very -durable and cool throughout the hottest months. All the fences and -corrals of the region where it abounds are made of the entire trunks of -this palm, while the cattle find a grateful shelter under its dense -shade. The slowness of its growth, observable even after centuries have -elapsed, is another curious peculiarity of this palm. When Europeans -first penetrated this wild region, they found extensive tracks covered -with low, apparently stunted plants, a few inches only above ground. -According to the recollection of the oldest inhabitants, of whom there -are many in the country, as I have already stated, these dwarfish palm -forests have not altered very perceptibly during their lives. It must -therefore have taken a full-grown plant thousands of years to attain the -height of twenty feet, which is their average size.</p> - -<p>Emerging from these extensive <i>palmares</i>—palm forests—we again found -ourselves in the midst of the boundless plain, assuming here as desolate -an aspect as if fire had passed over its entire surface, a dreary waste -of dried-up swamps, parched by the burning sun. Dismal tracts of these -<i>terroneros</i>, as they are termed, lay before us, having the appearance -of an extensive honey-comb, over which our jaded beasts stumbled at -every step, increasing our weariness to a state almost bordering on -desperation. The action of the rains washing the earth from around the -grass tufts, which are afterwards parched and hardened by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span> the heat of -the sun, leaves the surface of the ground covered with numerous little -clumps of indurated clay, so closely packed that there was no footing -for the animals.</p> - -<p>Even the cattle seemed to have forsaken this inhospitable region, for, -with the exception of a few stragglers, there were no signs of -animation. Most of the cattle are transferred at this season to the -fertile shores of the Apure and Portuguesa; or they abandon of their own -accord these dreary wastes for well-known streams where they allay their -thirst. Ours was intense on this occasion, while the tantalizing mirage, -that singular atmospheric phenomenon so peculiar to arid deserts, -haunted us incessantly with its rippling, vapory phantom, a feeling in -which our poor beasts seemed to participate, as with outstretched necks -and ears they snuffed in vain the far horizon in search of the reviving -element. By an unpardonable oversight, our men had neglected to fill -their gourds with water, and now we felt the want of it.</p> - -<p>These scenes have been described so graphically by the eloquent pen of -Humboldt, in his “Tableaux de la Nature,” that I will not attempt it -further, but refer my reader to the following:</p> - -<p>“When under the vertical rays of the never-clouded sun, the carbonized -tufty covering falls into dust, the indurated soil cracks asunder as if -from the shock of an earthquake. If at such times two opposing currents -of air, whose conflicts produce a rotary motion, come in contact with -the soil, the plain assumes a strange and singular aspect. Like -conical-shaped clouds, the points of which descend to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span> earth, the -sand rises through the rarified air in the electrically charged centre -of the whirling current, resembling the loud waterspout dreaded by the -experienced mariner. The lowering sky sheds a dim, almost straw-colored -light on the desolate plain; the horizon draws suddenly near; the steppe -seems to contract, and with it the heart of the wanderer. The hot, dusty -particles which fill the air, increase its suffocating heat, and the -east wind blowing over the long-heated soil brings with it no -refreshment, but rather a still more burning glow. The pools, which the -yellow, fading branches of the fan palm had protected from evaporation, -now gradually disappear. As in the icy north the animals become torpid -with cold, so here, under the influence of the parching drought, the -crocodile and the boa become motionless and fall asleep, deeply buried -in the dry mud. Everywhere the death-threatening drought prevails, and -yet, by the play of the refracted rays of light producing the phenomenon -of the mirage, the thirsty traveller is everywhere pursued by the -illusive image of a cool, rippling, watery mirror. The distant palm -bush, apparently raised by the influence of the contact of unequally -heated, and therefore unequally dense strata of air, hovers above the -ground, from which it is separated by a narrow intervening margin.”</p> - -<p>Indeed, so perfect was this illusion of the mirage, that on one occasion -Mr. Thomas and myself were entirely deceived by the appearance of a -beautiful lake which we prepared to sketch. But what was our surprise -when, on climbing a tree to obtain a better view, the phantom -disappeared as if by magic! This occurs<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span> whenever the spectator places -himself above the line of the natural horizon.</p> - -<p>At length we reached a solitary pool of muddy water in the midst of the -savanna, which was hailed with joy by man and beast; but, on nearer -inspection, the thirsty travellers were seized with disgust and -disappointment on seeing several dead and dying animals embedded in the -mud. These quagmires form extensive barriers in some places, especially -in dried-up creeks where hundreds of animals perish every year, being -unable to extricate themselves from the adhesive quality of the clay. At -our approach two hideous alligators rushed into the pond, and thus the -scanty portion that had not been disturbed by the tramping of animals -was in a moment thickened like the rest. However, there being no other -alternative, we were compelled to follow the example of our sturdy -Llaneros, who proceeded without much consideration to dip their -calabashes into that species of mud soup; then covering the mouths of -the <i>totumas</i> with our handkerchiefs, we sucked through them this -miserable substitute for water.</p> - -<p>About noon we descried a speck in the horizon, looking like a sail at -sea. Increasing in size as we neared it, it soon appeared to be a -solitary mound or promontory; by degrees it assumed more distinctness, -finally presenting to our view all the luxuriance of tropical -vegetation. This was the Mata de San Pedro, a sort of island grove of -splendid forest trees, which, like a veritable oasis, stood in the midst -of those desert plains, a relief to the parched and wayworn traveller. -<i>Mata</i> is the name by which the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> natives designate these lovely gems of -the Pampas, no less cherished than are those of the famed African Desert -by the wearied caravan; like them, they receive appropriate names from -some peculiarity of feature or other trivial cause, as Mata Gorda, Mata -Redonda, &c. But whatever be the name, all hail with joy these verdant -bowers, a cool retreat to every species of animal in summer, and a safe -refuge during the season of floods, for, being somewhat higher than the -surrounding country, they are rarely overflowed by the periodical -inundations.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>It was entirely dark on our arrival at the Mata, and we were then so -weary that there was little inclination evinced to make any preparations -for supper, and we were also greatly in need of water. Although the -earth was parched by the long drought, Providence has placed a few feet -below the surface an unlimited supply of the purest water. This can be -obtained at any time by merely digging for it with a wooden pole -sharpened at one end. In the present instance we were spared this -trouble, as some of our people, well acquainted with the place, knew -where one of these primitive wells could be found. Our first business, -therefore, was to seek for the <i>jagüey</i> in spite of the deadly -rattlesnakes said to abound there. From this we obtained sufficient -water for ourselves and riding horses, the other animals being left to -shift for themselves, always under the close vigilance, however, of the -watchmen appointed for the night. These men had a hard task: apart from -the fatigue of keeping awake and on horseback all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span> night, they were in -constant fear of a sudden stampede among the horses, which not -unfrequently occurs. To provide against a contretemps of the sort, those -in immediate use were secured nightly by straps attached to the feet, -which prevented their straying far from the camp.</p> - -<p>We rose very early, judging from the height of the <i>Lucero</i> or morning -star—which in those solitudes takes the place of town clock—whose -brilliancy almost equals that of the full moon. I nowhere recollect -having seen this gorgeous luminary of morning shed such radiant streams -of light as in the ever-cloudless sky of the Llanos during the summer -months. In equal proportion all the other heavenly bodies seem there to -vie with each other in heightening the splendor of that glorious -firmament, cheering the heart of the wanderer who finds himself, like -the mariner on the high seas, encompassed only by the vault of heaven, -whose glowing lamps were then our unerring guide towards the south, -enabling us to dispense with compass or any landmarks by which to direct -our course. Towards evening, we deviated a little from it, hoping to -reach a cattle-farm, intending to pass the night there; but our horses -being almost exhausted from the roughness of the ground, compelled us to -stop by the banks of a treeless creek abounding in alligators; this we -knew by the strong odor of musk which pervaded the air. In spite of -their proximity, which made me start more than once in my dreams, we -slept soundly in our ponchos on the hard ground, for want of trees from -which to sling our hammocks. This lack of firewood compelled us also</p> - -<p><a name="ill_10" id="ill_10"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b096b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b096b_sml.jpg" width="377" height="311" alt="Image unavailable: A PRAIRIE ON FIRE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A PRAIRIE ON FIRE.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">to go supperless that night and without breakfast next morning. After a -long search we finally succeeded in collecting a handful of drift wood -along the banks of the creek, enabling Mónico to make us a stimulating -cup of coffee in which to “drown our sorrows.”</p> - -<p>Midday brought us to the cattle-farm we were in quest of, when immediate -preparations were made for an ample meal, which should compensate us for -previous privations. The overseer informed us that not far from the -house was a herd of cattle bearing our brand. Thither we despatched two -men in search of the fattest among them. In a short time they returned -with a fine cow, which was speedily slaughtered and spitted before a -blazing fire kindled under three stupendous mimosa trees bearing flat, -kidney-shaped legumes or pods six inches in circumference. Our hunger -appeased, we spread our ponchos under the shade of these giants of the -vegetable world, and slept until noon, when we were again in our saddles -prosecuting the journey through a less monotonous landscape. The plain, -although still preserving the same rough character, was diversified with -groves of other leguminous trees, (Cañafistulos,) the pods of which were -nearly three feet in length, and contain a black pulp valuable as a -cathartic.</p> - -<p>Towards evening we were gratified by seeing, for the first time, that -splendid spectacle, a prairie on fire. The grass, parched with the -burning sun, is purposely fired by the natives to promote the growth of -the new crop, which last, owing to the heavy dews, starts long before -the rainy season sets in. The conflagration<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span> extended for more than -three miles, the strong evening breeze driving it onward in curling -fiery billows. Volumes of smoke loaded with burning particles of grass, -ascended in clouds, increasing the grandeur and beauty of the scene by -their various tints of red, pink, and purple, diffused throughout the -atmosphere. Aided by this illumination, we were enabled to discover a -solitary ranch, where we tarried the remainder of the night, although -there was nothing to be had there in the shape of edibles. Fortunately -one of our party had shot a number of wild ducks in a lagoon, and a -provident individual had saved some choice morsels of the cow. There was -some difficulty in procuring wood enough for a fire, but a couple of -rafters from the old ranch afforded the needful fuel, and thus we were -happily prevented passing a supperless, as well as comfortless night.</p> - -<p>Many hours before daybreak we were again up, saddling and loading our -animals, which, owing to the darkness, was always the most irksome part -of the journey. We were, however, most happy to bid adieu to the -solitary ranch with its myriads of bats, the only tenants we encountered -there.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">LA PORTUGUESA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Again</span> we were under way, and again our eyes encountered only the flat -monotonous plain on all sides sweeping to the horizon, varied only in -being more barren, rougher, and consequently more exhausting to our -horses than any of the preceding. Many of the riders dismounted, that -the poor brutes might be relieved as much as possible, and accomplished -the remainder of the journey on foot. This occasioned a burning thirst, -which the scant supply of water in our gourds was not sufficient to -allay; and it was not until noon had long passed, that our guides, -pointing to a blue ridge of forest in the distance, informed us it -marked the course of the river Portuguesa, our intended halting place, -and on the borders of which we purposed spending several days. The -cavalcade, inspirited by this view, pressed forward as rapidly as their -exhausted condition would permit, and fortunately reached the pass -before nightfall.</p> - -<p>This beautiful river has its rise in the mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> of Trujillo, and -connects the fertile province of Barinas with the sea, through the Apure -and Orinoco, being in fact one of the principal tributaries of the -former. Its commercial advantages, as may be imagined, are of great -importance to the interior of a country so distant from the ocean, and -whose principal products consist in the bulky yield of the plantations. -It is navigable during a great portion of the year, especially for steam -vessels, and I am happy to learn that the great civilizer of the -world—steam—has at length been introduced there through the -enterprising energy of some Yankee speculators.</p> - -<p>The banks of the river, being both high and precipitous, a passage to it -can only be accomplished at certain points, where the hand of man and -the tramp of animals have cut deep trenches, forming paths to the -water’s edge. On this occasion, we sought the pass of San Jaime, where a -ferryman is stationed with a canoe to take across any who desire it. -Horses, however, being excellent swimmers, are left to ferry themselves -over. Our first care on arriving of at the pass was to unload our beasts -of burden, and unsaddle our steeds for the purpose of allowing them to -cool before entering the water, a precaution which, if neglected, not -unfrequently proves fatal to both man and beast. This duty fulfilled, we -proceeded to hail the <i>Canoero</i>, whose ranch was perched upon the south -bank of the river. The knowledge that he would receive a “real” for -every man and beast that crossed, besides various perquisites from -passengers whom he supplied with meals during their sojourn at his -ranch, so expedited his motions, that in a few moments his frail<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> barge -received its first load, each person taking his own chattels with him. A -boy of fifteen, naked and sunburnt, paddled the canoe, while the -ferryman steered it by means of his <i>canalete</i>. The utmost care was -necessary to prevent the overturn of the crazy skiff, which reeled at -every stroke of the paddle, threatening to pitch all its contents -overboard. As soon as we landed on the opposite shore, the boat returned -for a second load, and the trips were repeated until the whole party had -crossed. There now only remained the horses, who being extremely shy of -deep water, required to be forced to swim across, an operation demanding -considerable skill on the part of the drivers. The only way was to give -them an example; accordingly two expert swimmers, divesting themselves -of clothes, jumped upon the bare back of their horses and plunged -incontinently into the stream. Then, sliding off to one side, they -allowed the horses to swim without encumbrance, supporting themselves -with one hand upon the animal’s haunches, while with the other they -guided them by means of a halter. Meanwhile, those that remained on -shore set up a tremendous shouting and yelling, at the same time shaking -their ponchos violently with the intent to frighten all the rest of the -troop down the steep embankment, where, encouraged at the sight of the -two ahead, they all entered the stream and followed their leaders -without further difficulty. Several large crocodiles, who had watched -all these proceedings from the middle of the river, alarmed by the -confusion, disappeared from view, and then the heads only of the leaders -and their steeds rose, puffing and snorting,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> above water. In spite, -however, of all the uproar, one of these men was instantly attacked by -caribes, and very narrowly escaped serious injury from them. I was -standing at the time on the opposite side of the river, watching this -novel mode of ferrying, and observed that the man, abandoning his horse, -endeavored to reach the bank by long strides, occasionally lashing -himself with a coiled lazo he carried in his hand. It immediately -occurred to me that he might have been attacked by crocodiles, a belief -which was strengthened on seeing the poor fellow’s sides streaming blood -as he stepped upon the beach. My first apprehension was quickly -dispelled by his pointing to a circular wound on his shoulder, about the -size of a quarter dollar, and to others as severe on various parts of -his body, inflicted by caribes. Had the man been a less expert swimmer, -or the water less agitated, the accident would undoubtedly have proved -more serious; as it was, we were considerably alarmed for the fate of -the other man, who, however, happily escaped unhurt.</p> - -<p>The surprising boldness of these diminutive fish, naturally increased my -anxiety to examine more minutely into their peculiarities, than I had -yet the opportunity of doing. I therefore determined to procure fresh -specimens, if possible. On a former occasion I had lost most of my trout -hooks, but I still preserved some larger ones, mounted with copper wire, -to be used in the rivers of the Apure; these I supposed proof against -the teeth of any fish, and no sooner were we established in the ranch of -the ferryman, than, taking my lines I hastened to the river accompanied<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> -by my English co-laborer, the artist. The hooks were baited with pieces -of fresh beef, and dropped with great precaution near the shore. -Scarcely did the bait touch the water, when it was seized by caribes. -Without allowing them time, as it seemed, to get the whole of it between -their jaws, we pulled in the lines, but, alas! minus hooks, as well as -bait. On examination, we discovered that one of the hooks had been cut -through, while the other was severed from the wire. Still, we -persevered, but invariably with the same unfortunate result.</p> - -<p>Greatly annoyed, I turned to question a Llanero, who stood near laughing -at what he considered my simplicity. Another tapped me gently on the -shoulder, and addressed me with “<i>Niño</i>, you might as well attempt to -catch a rattlesnake by the tail” (a favorite expression among them) “as -to think of hooking one of those chaps.” What is to be done, then? for I -must have at least a couple of these scoundrels, said I. “Who ever saw a -genteel young gentleman like yourself, with a taste for such disgusting -creatures?” he replied, imagining that I wanted them for eating. On my -explanation that my object was simply to sketch and preserve them in -spirits, they advised me to procure a piece of tough skin from the head -of an ox which was then being slaughtered, and to suspend it from a -strip of the same material. I immediately followed their instructions, -and shortly repaired again to the river. Seating myself on the stern of -the canoe, which was moored across the stream, I dropped my novel bait -into the water, and watched for the result with the utmost interest. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> -a moment a shoal of caribes collected around the bait and commenced -attacking it voraciously. Finding the thick cartilage too tough even for -their sharp teeth, and unwilling to give it up, they continued gnawing -at it like so many little hyenas. When I imagined them to be fairly -“stuck” through the thick skin, I lifted the whole concern over the side -of the canoe, and had the satisfaction of seeing about a dozen of the -fish dancing at the bottom of my barge. Finding this novel style of -fishing rather easy and entertaining, I continued it until I was -suddenly apprised into whose company I had thrust myself by feeling the -heel of my left foot seized by one of the captives with such violence as -caused me to drop my bait, with the vicious creatures that were hanging -from it, into the river. My only thought now was how to contrive my -escape, having the whole length of the canoe to traverse, and its floor -paved with these ravenous little wretches. My first impulse was to -spring overboard; but a moment’s reflection convinced me that it would -be a jump from the “frying pan into the fire.” Placed thus, as it were, -between Scylla and Charybdis, I again appealed to the ingenuity of my -former advisers for deliverance. This they readily accomplished by a -very simple contrivance, consisting of a gunny bag, which they spread -over the gaping draught of fish. In a moment their sharp teeth were -again at work, this time among the tough fibres of the bag, to which -they clung with the tenacity of bull-dogs, thus enabling us to fish them -out again without difficulty.</p> - -<p>My biting experience of these little pests left me<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span> in no mood to spare -them, and I never missed an opportunity of provoking a bloody conflict -among them. With this view I made it my daily business to scatter pieces -of flesh in the river, which never failed in attracting great numbers to -the spot. These devoured the meat in a few moments, after which, being -themselves of a red hue, and mistaking each other for the meat, they -continued the feast by devouring one another, until few of them remained -alive. Thus I accomplished my revenge upon these cannibals of the finny -tribe. The pike and the caribe are, I believe, the only fish which -devour those of their own species when disabled. “As no one dares to -bathe where it is found,” remarks Humboldt in his travels, “it may be -considered as one of the greatest scourges of those climates, in which -the sting of the mosquitoes and the general irritation of the skin, -render the use of baths so necessary.”</p> - -<p>Fortunately for mankind, these fish are subject to a yearly mortality -during the heats of summer, when the water is deprived of a portion of -the air it holds in solution. Their carcasses may then be seen floating -on the water by thousands, while the beach is strewn with their bones, -especially their bristling jaws, which render walking barefoot on the -borders of lagoons extremely dangerous.</p> - -<p>To judge from the incessant turmoil in the river at all hours of the -night, besides evident proofs of their depredations during the day, I -concluded that the havoc they commit on the other denizens of the water -must be very great. Even the armor-clad crocodiles are not exempt from -their attacks, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> wounded in their own quarrels, as they sometimes -are, during the season of their loves, for even crocodiles are subject -to jealousy, that other “green-eyed monster.”<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p> - -<p>The Waraun Indians, whom the first tribe of cannibals, the Caribs, -compelled years ago to seek a refuge among the flooded lands of the -great Delta of the Orinoco river, and who in consequence live in huts -raised on posts above the water, without even the allotted space of dry -ground to deposit their mortal remains, have adopted the curious custom -of preserving the bones of their deceased relations suspended from the -roof of their aerial dwellings; but having no skilful anatomists among -themselves to strip the body of the more perishable flesh, they avail -themselves of the voracious habits of this fish for so essential a -performance. For this purpose they tie the corpse with a strong rope, -and plunge it in the water, securing the other end of the rope to one of -the pillars upon which their dwellings rest: in less than twenty-four -hours the skeleton is hauled out of the water perfectly clean, for the -teeth of the caribe have stripped it of flesh, arteries, tendons, etc. -Now all that the mourners have to do is to separate the bones, which -they arrange with much care and nicety in baskets made for the purpose, -gaudily ornamented with beads of various colors; and so well have they -calculated beforehand the space the bones will occupy in the funereal -urn, that the skull, tightly adjusted against the sides of the basket at -top, comes to be the lid of it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span></p> - -<p>During the annual inundation of the savannas, when quadrupeds perish by -thousands in the vernal deluge, the caribes have ample field for their -voracity; but living animals are not exempted, for they prey with equal -fierceness upon the young calves when wading through the marshes, and -upon the mothers, whose udders they so mutilate, that the young ones -frequently perish from lack of nourishment. The poor cattle lead about -this season a truly miserable life. Those that escape the teeth of the -caribe, the coil of the anaconda, that great water serpent, or the jaws -of the equally dreaded crocodile, are in continual danger of falling a -prey to the lion or the jaguar, while congregated upon the <i>bancos</i> and -other places left dry amidst the rising waters. None, however, escape -the tormenting sting of myriad insects which, until the waters subside, -fill the air they breathe. Even at night, when all created beings should -rest in peace, enormous vampires, issuing from the gloomy recesses of -the forest, perch upon the backs of the sufferers and suck their life -blood, all the while lulling them with the flapping of their spurious -wings. In fact, it seems as if in these regions all the elements -conspired against these useful creatures; for, after these varied evils -have abated with the return of the dry season, the hand of man is also -continually against them in harassing hunts, or in firing the ripe -pastures which sweep their realms in devastating fury, driving them in -consternation from the fields of their enjoyment.</p> - -<p>The crocodiles of this river are noted for being the most savage and -daring in the Llanos. Although<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> usually styled yellow caymans, to -distinguish them from the common alligator, which is of a darker hue, -they are in fact real crocodiles, with an acute snout, like those -inhabiting the Nile and other celebrated rivers of Africa.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>While walking along the banks of the Portuguesa, one may see these huge -lizards collected in groups of half a dozen or more, basking in the -sunshine near the water, with their jaws wide open until their ghastly -palates are filled with flies or other creatures alighting within them. -We tried in vain shooting them with guns; the reptiles were so wary, -that the moment we took aim they rushed into the water. Being at a loss -how to procure a subject for my pencil, I sought the advice of an old -man, an angler by profession, who lived in one of the huts near the -river. He agreed to let me have his canoe with his son to paddle it, and -the requisite number of harpoons, providing I could obtain the -assistance of an Indian boy from the neighborhood, who was a capital -marksman with the bow and arrow. “What!” I exclaimed in astonishment, -“do we expect to kill one of these monsters with so slight a thing as an -arrow?” “No, Señorito,” he calmly answered; “but you must first know -where to find him under water before you can strike him with the -harpoon; the arrow of which I speak is the kind we use in catching -turtles.” These arrows are constructed so as to allow the head, affixed -to the shaft somewhat in the manner of a lance, to come off the moment -it strikes an object in the water. A slender cord, several feet in -length,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> connects it with the shaft, which last is made of a light, -buoyant reed; around this the cord is wound closely until it reaches the -point where the head is, then fastened securely. The shaft being -extremely light, floats on the surface of the water the moment it is set -free from the head by the struggles of the animal, thus acting as a -guide for its recovery.</p> - -<p>The old angler then proceeded to explain that the operation must be -conducted first by sending one of these arrows into the body of the -crocodile to mark his position under water; and then, if practicable, we -might plunge a harpoon into the only vulnerable spot we could hope to -reach, viz., the nape of the neck, after which the animal could be -easily dragged on shore by means of strong ropes attached to the -harpoon.</p> - -<p>Accordingly, I went in search of the Indian boy, whom I found under a -tree, seated like a toad on his haunches, skinning a porcupine he had -just killed. At my approach he raised his head and fixed on me his -unmeaning eyes. When spoken to, he only replied to all my questions with -the monosyllables, <i>si</i>, <i>no</i>. After a little coaxing, and the promise -of some fish hooks, he followed me to the canoe without uttering a word -more. We were not long in getting a chance to test the skill of my new -acquaintance. As we approached the river banks, a large crocodile hove -in sight, floating down the stream like a log of wood. Our position was -most favorable to send an arrow rattling through his scales, and my -young Nimrod lost no time in improving the opportunity. Stepping a few -paces in advance, and bending gracefully over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> the precipice, he let fly -at the reptile’s head his slender, yellow reed, <i>por elevacion</i>, viz., -shooting the arrow up into the air at an angle of forty-five, which -causes it to descend with great force upon the object, after describing -an arc of a circle in the manner of a bomb-shell. Although the distance -was fully three hundred paces, the arrow struck the mark with the -precision of a rifle ball. A violent plunge of the huge reptile was my -first intimation that the trial had been successful, and a moment after -I perceived the golden reed, now attached to him, skimming swiftly over -the surface of the water. We hastened for the canoe, and immediately -gave chase up the stream, as the crocodile had taken that direction. We -were rapidly gaining upon him, when, alarmed at the sound of the -paddles, he sunk in very deep water, as was indicated by the reed. This -circumstance rendered it impossible to employ our harpoon. We tried in -vain to start him; he stuck to the muddy bottom whence neither pulls nor -curses could move him. We hoped that in time he would come to the -surface to breathe, and then we might strike him with a harpoon; but in -this we were equally disappointed. After waiting for him two hours, we -gave him up, along with the arrow head sticking in his own.</p> - -<p>I made various other attempts to secure a specimen, but with no better -result, as the river was yet too high to sound for them.</p> - -<p>While in this place, I was told several incidents in relation to the -cunning and instinct of these saurians, one of which appeared to me most -remarkable in an animal of the reptile tribe. The ferryman here<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> -possessed at one time a great many goats. One day he perceived that -several of them had disappeared, and not being able to account for it in -any other way, he at once laid the blame on the hated crocodiles, -although these creatures seldom carry their attacks beyond their own -element. His suspicions, he discovered in the end, were well founded, -having witnessed the destruction of one of his goats in a very singular -manner. It appeared that a crocodile had in some mysterious way -discovered that goats delight in jumping from place to place, but more -especially from rocks or mounds. Rocks, however, being rather scarce in -the country, their treacherous enemy undertook to gratify their taste -for this innocent pastime, and at the same time cater to his own. -Approaching the water’s edge to within a few feet from the bank, he -swelled out his back in such a manner as gave it the appearance of a -small island or promontory. The stupid goats perceiving this, varied -their gambols by jumping from their secure places on shore upon the -seeming island, which they, however, never reached, for the crocodile, -tossing up his head at the right instant, received them into his open -jaws, and swallowed them without difficulty.</p> - -<p>Crocodiles have a special penchant for dogs also, and never miss an -opportunity of gratifying their taste for the canine. In this, however, -they are often balked by the superior cunning of their intended -tit-bits. One day I observed a couple of tiger-hounds quietly enjoying a -cool bath in the river. Struck with their apparent <i>nonchalance</i> when in -such a dangerous proximity, I found on inquiry that these animals<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span> never -approach the water, either to drink or to bathe, without previously -attracting the crocodiles by means of repeated howlings to some distant -spot. This instinct of the dog with regard to crocodiles seems to be -rather of antique date, for I find it recorded in the writings of both -ancient and modern travellers in different parts of the world.</p> - -<p>No person can venture near the water without danger from their attacks, -being so treacherous that they approach their intended victim near -enough to strike him with their powerful tails before he is even aware -of their proximity. The bubbling sound of a gourd being filled in the -water by some imprudent person, specially attracts them. To obviate this -danger, a calabash bowl with a long wooden handle is usually employed -for the purpose; yet, even this is not unfrequently snatched from the -hands of the water-carrier. If by accident a human being falls a prey to -this tyrant of the river, the reptile is then called <i>cebado</i>, which -appellation implies every thing that is bold, ferocious, and treacherous -in an animal of the species, as from that time they not only waylay -persons, but follow them in the canoes, in hopes of again securing this -dainty morsel. There are, however, men bold enough to meet the enemy -face to face in his own element. The man who makes up his mind to this -encounter is well aware that this must be a conflict to the death for -one of the antagonists. The ferryman related to us a feat of gallantry -worthy of a better cause, performed here by a Llanero with one of these -monsters. The man was on his way to San Jaime on a pressing errand. -Being in haste<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span> to get there the same day, he would not wait for the -canoe to be brought to him, but prepared to swim across, assisted by his -horse. He had already secured his saddle and clothes upon his head, as -is usual on similar occasions, when the ferryman cried out to him to -beware of a <i>caiman cebado</i>, then lurking near the pass, urging upon -him, at the same time, to wait for the canoe. Scorning this advice, the -Llanero replied with characteristic pride, “Let him come; I was never -yet afraid of man or beast.” Then laying aside a part of his ponderous -equipment, he placed his two-edged dagger between his teeth, and plunged -fearlessly into the river. He had not proceeded far, when the monster -rose and made quickly towards him. The ferryman crossed himself -devoutly, and muttered the holy invocation of <i>Jesus, Maria y José</i>! -fearing for the life, and, above all, for the toll of the imprudent -traveller. In the mean time, the swimmer continued gliding through the -water towards the approaching crocodile. Aware of the impossibility of -striking his adversary a mortal blow unless he could reach the armpit, -he awaited the moment when the reptile should attack him, to throw his -saddle at him. This he accomplished so successfully, that the crocodile, -doubtless imagining it to be some sort of good eating, jumped partly out -of the water to catch it. Instantly the Llanero plunged his dagger up to -the very hilt into the fatal spot. A hoarse grunt and a tremendous -splash showed that the blow was mortal, for the ferocious monster sunk -beneath the waves to rise no more.</p> - -<p>Proud of this achievement, and scorning the tardy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> assistance of the -ferryman, who offered to pick him up in his canoe, he waved his bloody -dagger in the air, exclaiming, as he did so: “Is there no other about -here?” and then turning, he swam leisurely back to take his horse -across.</p> - -<p>The <i>canoero</i> who related this adventure then added: “So delighted was I -on that occasion, that I killed my fattest hen to treat the man to a -good <i>sancocho</i>, for the caiman had devoured all my goats.”</p> - -<p>But this is only one of the many exploits constantly being enacted in -these regions, by the bold race of men inhabiting them.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_11" id="ill_11"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b114_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b114_sml.jpg" width="280" height="201" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>There is still living at San Fernando, a town at the confluence of the -Apure and Portuguesa rivers, another individual equally bold in -attacking crocodiles, in which warfare he uses only a wooden mace or -club. He is possibly one of the greatest swimmers<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> in that or any other -country, having repeatedly accomplished the run between San Fernando and -El Diamante—a plantation which he owns three miles below the -town—without once stopping on the way. Armed with his heavy club in one -hand, and a bottle of rum in the other, to keep himself in good spirits, -this modern Hercules will, for the fun of it, during a spree, provoke a -fight with a <i>caiman cebado</i>; and so effectual has been his warfare, -that he has actually succeeded in driving them away from the pass, -formerly so infested by them, that scarcely a year elapsed in which -numbers of persons were not carried off by them, helpless washerwomen -especially.</p> - -<p>I observed, also, at La Portuguesa, a great number of fresh-water -porpoises or <i>toninas</i>, as they are called there, swimming with rapidity -against the current, and bending their backs gracefully like their -congeners of the sea. Crocodiles appeared to avoid them, and would -invariably dive out of the way at their approach. It is probable that -from this circumstance arose the current belief that <i>toninas</i> will -befriend persons when they chance to fall into the water, against the -attacks of crocodiles. It is, moreover, asserted that these cetacea will -rescue a man from drowning, pushing him on to the shore with their -snouts. In acknowledgment of this animal philanthropy, the hand of man -is there never raised against these inoffensive creatures; and so -conscious are they of this, that they seem rather to delight in his -neighborhood, sporting around the canoes which ascend the river, and -spouting jets of water and compressed air like miniature whales.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE APURE RIVER.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> tarried several days at La Portuguesa to afford our horses time to -recover from the fatigues of the previous rough journeys. We also -expected to incorporate there another drove, which having been kept -throughout the summer grazing in the ever-verdant meadows of this river, -were now in very fine condition. In the mean time, we were agreeably -occupied in hunting, fishing and dancing; the people of the neighborhood -being sufficient for our social entertainments.</p> - -<p>Every morning we rode out to the savannas to hunt an ox for our meals. -The remainder of the day was occupied in scouring the adjacent woods and -plains after our steeds, who seemed as if conscious of the life that -awaited them beyond La Portuguesa; for it required all the ingenuity and -sagacity of the Llaneros to discover their hiding-places, and bring them -again to the corrals. The evenings were devoted to dancing and singing -by the light of half a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> dozen <i>candiles</i>, or lamps made of burned clay, -and filled with the grease of crocodiles. The habitations being -considerably scattered along the banks of the river, we employed a -number of runners for the purpose of bringing the company to the -<i>fandango</i>, as these nocturnal revelries are called, who came in canoes -or wading through the mud as occasion required.</p> - -<p>And now, refined and courteous reader, picture to yourself a motley -assemblage, brought together without any regard to color, age, or -position, under an open shed or barracoon dimly lighted, and you will -form an idea of our <i>soirées dansantes</i>, which for merriment and -courtesy might with good reason have been the envy of the most polished -<i>reunions</i>.</p> - -<p>The orchestra was composed of a guitar scarcely larger than the hand -that twanged it, a banjo of huge proportions, and a couple of noisy -<i>maracas</i>, rattle-boxes made from the shell of the calabash fruit, and -filled with the seed of a Marantha or Indian shot. No music is -considered complete without this accompaniment, which, as well as I -could judge, filled the place of castanets, or the less romantic “bones” -of negro minstrelsy. A wooden handle is attached to each, to enable the -performer to shake them to and fro, which he does with appropriate -gestures and contortions expressive of his different emotions. A -corresponding choir of singers, picked from our own suite, was attached -to the players. All Llaneros are passionately fond of music, and display -considerable talent, composing many beautiful songs of a national -character, called <i>tonos</i> or <i>trovas llaneras</i>. Few in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> the country are -not gifted with the power of versification, and there are among them -many famous <i>improvisatori</i>. Whenever two of these are brought together, -a competition for the laurel crown is the invariable consequence. This -amicable strife sometimes occupies several successive hours, ending only -when one of the bards is fairly silenced by the other; the victor is -then declared the <i>lion</i> of the fête and receives accordingly not only -the congratulations of his admirers, but also secures the smiles of the -most sparkling eyes in the company. It is really surprising to see men, -who cannot distinguish one letter of the alphabet from another, compose -and extemporize poetry which, although rude in character, is -nevertheless full of interest and significance. Most of their songs and -ballads refer to deeds of valor performed by their own heroes; while -others recount their love adventures, and daily struggles with the wild -and unsubdued nature which surrounds them. Their instruments, when -handled with skill, produce very harmonious sounds. The <i>bandola</i> or -banjo bears no resemblance to the one in common use among the negroes of -the States. It is, in fact, a guitar of large proportions, shaped -somewhat like the lute of old. The guitar of the Llanos is the reverse -of its associate the banjo, being considerably smaller and with only -five strings, on which account it is called <i>Cinco</i>. Still, it is a very -noisy little instrument, all its cords being made to resound at once by -running the fingers of the right hand up and down over them, while those -of the left stop them at the right moment.</p> - -<p>The dancers do not grapple with each other, as is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> the practice among -some of the more enlightened, but dance alone, joining hands -occasionally for a few moments, and then separating and whirling round -by themselves. First, a woman paces round the room in double-quick step, -looking for a partner; when a suitable one is found, a graceful waving -of the handkerchief summons him before her; then both go through their -evolutions until the woman chooses to withdraw. The man then with a -polite bow invites a second partner, and so on to the end of the first -dance. This is styled the <i>Galeron</i>, in which only the most skilful -dancers take part, as it requires great flexibility of joint and limb to -execute all the intricate and graceful posturings and swayings of the -body, constituting the principal charm of the performance. They have a -variety of other dances, such as <i>La Maricela</i>, <i>El Raspon</i>, <i>La Zapa</i>, -&c., all of which, however, are of the same character, the chief -difference being in the <i>double entendre</i> of the stanzas sung as -accompaniment to the music. <i>La Maricela</i>, especially, is a very -exciting dance, from the satirical <i>bon mots</i> hurled by the bard of the -evening at each couple as they pass. The facility with which these -verses are improvised is most amusing, and would even astonish the most -accomplished Neapolitan <i>improvisatore</i>. Some of them are capital hits -upon the personal appearance, &c., of the dancers, and none fail to find -some point for ridicule.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Three or four days we sojourned among these jolly people, and then again -set out for the scene of our future adventures, stopping for the night -at San<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> Jaime, once a thriving town, but now nearly deserted in -consequence of the desolating civil wars which have afflicted the -country for several years. On our way thither, we traversed a succession -of beautiful prairies, bound by rings of magnificent forest trees, and -watered by numerous creeks and lagoons filled with water fowl. Unlike -the dreary wastes we had already crossed, which, “like the ocean, fill -the imagination with the idea of infinity,” the plains stretching -between the Portuguesa and Apure rivers are characterized by the -rankness and luxuriance of the vegetation. Owing to the periodical -inundation, the landscape wears here the green mantle of spring even -during the hottest months.</p> - -<p>This yearly inundation is one of the most curious phenomena of this -region. At the approach of the rainy season, those two magnificent -offsprings of the Sierra Nevada, the Apure and Portuguesa, tired as it -were of their long repose, suddenly rise in their heated, muddy beds, -and leap over their borders, at first in playful gambols; then in -fearful and rapid course, converting these widely extended plains into a -vast lagoon. To the few spots which escape the general submersion, the -inhabitants retire with their chattels and flocks in canoes held in -readiness for the purpose.</p> - -<p>Thus the land is kept in a state of constant irrigation and fertility -unsurpassed in any country, although at the expense of the comfort of -the inhabitants, who are compelled to abandon their homes to the -crocodiles and anacondas of the stream. When the waters subside, the -intruders are expelled by the rightful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> owners of the dwellings; the few -articles of furniture they possess replaced in the damp rooms, and they -again devote themselves to domestic pursuits until the next inundation -forces them anew to seek a home elsewhere. I was shown at the pass the -marks left by the water on the walls of the cottages, indicating in some -instances a rise of twelve feet.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>I was struck with the size and luxuriance of the trees along the course -of these rivers. My attention was particularly attracted by the <i>saman</i>, -a species of Mimosa, with delicate, feathery flowers of a pinkish hue, -and gigantic, umbrella-shaped boughs. There is in the valleys of Aragua -one of these which, from time immemorial, has elicited the admiration of -travellers, and received the protection of the law since the discovery -and settlement of the country, for its magnificent proportions and the -great age which it is supposed to have attained.</p> - -<p>Extensive tracts of land are entirely taken up by individuals of this -class. It would be impossible to conceive any thing more grand in nature -than a forest of these trees. It might be said of them that each is a -forest in itself; and were all the beautiful parasites that cling to -their trunks and branches for support spread upon the ground, they would -cover several acres. All along the course of the great rivers Apure, -Guarico, and Portuguesa, the <i>saman</i> is found in such countless numbers -that the combined fleets of the civilized world might be reconstructed -from this inexhaustible supply. The axe of the northerner could readily -convert those stupendous forests into vehicles<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> of commerce and -civilization, were it not for the wasting fevers, endemic of that -region. Now they only serve as protective haunts for desperate bands of -robbers and cut-throats, let loose by unprincipled politicians.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_12" id="ill_12"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b122_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b122_sml.jpg" width="254" height="147" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>Equally rank and luxuriant are the grasses in these alluvial lands. We -were compelled to drive before us all the relay horses and other beasts -of burden to open a passage and save our bare feet from being dreadfully -lacerated by the <i>gamelote</i>, a tall, cutting, and worthless grass, with -blades almost as sharp as a “Toledo.” It grows so closely and rapidly as -to obliterate in a few days the paths made by travellers, killing every -other species in its way. Unfortunately, it is perfectly useless as -fodder, except for <i>Chigüires</i> or water-hogs, which feed on it when -nothing better offers, and to the flesh of which it imparts its -disagreeable flavor; the <i>gamelote</i> is therefore consigned to the flames -as soon as it is ripe enough to burn, which it does with as much seeming -fury as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> it displayed against the feet and legs of travellers in its -green days.</p> - -<p>On the second night of our journey, we pitched our camp near several -ponds, literally crowded with alligators and fish and water fowl of all -varieties, which kept up a continual strife, to our great discomfort. -Not only was the water rendered noxious by the numerous creatures in it, -but even the air was filled with the effluvium and mosquitoes arising -therefrom. We were compelled to dig wells in the vicinity of the lagoons -to obtain water for our use; but no artifice could shield us from the -unmerciful attacks of the mosquitoes, especially the kind called -<i>pullones</i>, from the length and strength of the proboscis. We tried in -vain to escape their painful sting by rolling ourselves from head to -foot in our ponchos and hammocks, at the peril of suffocation; the -needle-like proboscis of the insects actually penetrated through the -folds of our covering so as to draw blood. Nor would the smoke of the -blazing fires around the camp drive them off, as was anticipated. -Fortunately, they only paid us an early visit, retiring all at once -before midnight, and leaving us to the tender mercies of their kinsfolk, -the noisy mosquitoes or <i>zancudos</i>. These, although not so tormenting -with their sting, were none the less so with their music, while no part -of our bodies could be left uncovered without being instantly besieged -by swarms of these “howling-insect wolves.” This, however, was the only -occasion upon which we were troubled by mosquitoes during our journey, -as they only appear in force during the rainy season.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span></p> - -<p>I noticed here for the first time a low range of hills or <i>médanos</i>, -mere accumulations of sand tossed from place to place by the winds -across the boundless plain; to-day, they rise above the surrounding -prairies; to-morrow, they are levelled with the dust of the savannas: -fit emblem of the ephemeral republics of the South! These <i>médanos</i> had -been overrun by the <i>gamelote</i>, giving them the character of permanent -hills, from which the place takes the name of Medanos de San Martin.</p> - -<p>It is scarcely necessary to say that there was no temptation to prolong -our stay there longer than was needed by our horses, who revelled all -night in the fine meadows around the lagoons. Packing up once more, we -bade adieu to that inhospitable encampment long before daylight.</p> - -<p>Struggling through miles of <i>gamelote</i>, we reached the cattle farm of -Corozito towards noon. Don Luciano Samuel, the proprietor, extended to -us the hospitalities of his demesne with the characteristic grace and -frankness of the people in those regions. From thence to the Pass of -Apurito, on the river Apure, was only a few hours’ ride; and the morning -being the best time for crossing the river with our animals, we rose -early in order to reach it before the breeze should commence blowing.</p> - -<p>Owing to the thick vegetation on its banks, we did not discover the -river until we were close upon it; and then, with what delight did I -again view the broad surface of this magnificent stream!</p> - -<p>Although born near its shores, I had but a faint recollection of its -broad expanse. Perhaps its turbulent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> waves had rocked my raw-hide -cradle during one of the periodical inundations; for, from earliest -childhood, I have borne marks left by the teeth of the <i>caribe</i>.</p> - -<p>What glorious recollections of the fierce contest for liberty did its -waters bring to memory! Not the lordly Thames, with its “woven-winged” -argosies, teeming with the merchandise of the earth; the enchanting -Delaware, framed in romantic cottages and orchard groves; nor yet the -splendid Hudson, renowned for its floating palaces and legends, but -more, that on its banks nestles the home of Irving, awakened in my -breast such emotions of heartfelt admiration as did this silent -messenger from the Sierra Nevada! There, amidst the thunders of the -Heavens and rolling avalanches, it takes its rise, precipitately -descending to the plain below through a succession of frightful leaps, -which shake the primeval forest to its very foundations. And so it -comes, that its surface is often loaded with an immense accumulation of -fallen trees from the various zones of vegetation it traverses in its -course. Thus the delicate ferns and other Alpine plants are commingled -with those of the burning climes below, and finally deposited in the -wide estuary forming the delta of the Orinoco. When future generations -shall disentomb them in a petrified state, their geologists will no -doubt attribute this singular agglomeration to wonderful changes in the -temperature of the earth.</p> - -<p>The river Apure, properly speaking, is formed by the confluence of two -other streams, the Sarare and Uribante. The former has its rise among -the New<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> Granadian range of mountains, although a great portion of its -waters flow now into the Arauca, consequent on the great deposits of -sand and drift wood accumulating at its mouth.</p> - -<p>The Uribante, or Upper Apure, may be considered the main channel of this -river, with a total length of six hundred and forty miles, five hundred -and sixty-four of which are navigable for large vessels. It takes the -name of Apure after its junction with the Sarare; but is again -subdivided into several ramifications called <i>caños</i> or creeks, each of -which has a particular name; among them, La Ebilla, Apurito and -Apure-Seco are the most important; these again unite with the main -channel, and form islands of surprising fertility. These islands are -invaluable as <i>potreros</i> for the cattle, when other parts of the country -are parched with the droughts of summer, the steep banks and wide -channels of the rivers serving as the most effectual barriers against -their roaming propensities.</p> - -<p>The geographical situation of this river, joined as it is to one of the -greatest tributaries of the wide ocean—the Orinoco—at a point nearly -five hundred miles from its confluence with the sea, stamps it as one of -the most important lines of internal navigation in the world, and points -to the wild region of the Llanos as a future emporium of civilization. -To it all the products and other natural sources of wealth from the -adjoining provinces will be brought for immediate exportation to foreign -markets; as, in addition to the vast area of level country traversed by -it, this river receives the tribute of a hundred navigable streams<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span> -descending from the eastern slope of the Andes of New Granada and -Venezuela.</p> - -<p>The width of the Apure varies considerably according to the seasons of -rains and droughts; sometimes extending miles beyond its actual channel, -but usually not less than one thousand yards broad. Humboldt, who -measured it at San Fernando in the month of May, when it had receded to -its lowest ebb, found it to be two hundred and thirty-six toises broad; -higher up it is considerably wider, gradually diminishing as it -approaches its great confluent. Alluding to this singular phenomenon, -mostly caused by evaporation and infiltrations through the dry, sandy -banks of the river, the same eminent traveller elucidates some curious -facts worthy of notice. He says: “Some idea of the magnitude of these -effects may be formed, from the fact that we found the heat of the dry -sands at different hours of the day from 36° to 52°,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> and that of -sands covered with three or four inches of water 32°. The beds of rivers -are heated as far as the depth to which the solar rays can penetrate, -without undergoing too great an expansion in their passage through the -superincumbent strata of water. Besides, filtration extends in a lateral -direction far beyond the bed of the river. The shore, which appears dry -to us, imbibes water as far up as to the level of the surface of the -river. We saw water gush out at the distance of fifty toises from the -shore, every time that the Indians struck their oars into the ground. -Now, these sands, wet below but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> dry above, and exposed to the solar -rays, act like sponges, and lose the infiltrated water every instant by -evaporation. The vapor that is emitted traverses the upper stratum of -sand strongly heated, and becomes sensible to the eye when the air cools -towards evening. As the beach dries, it draws from the river new -portions of water; and it may be easily conceived that this continual -alternation of vaporization and lateral absorption must cause an immense -loss, difficult to submit to exact calculation. The increase of these -losses would be in proportion to the length of the course of the rivers, -if from their source to their mouth they were equally surrounded by a -flat shore; but these shores being formed by deposits from the water, -and the water having less velocity in proportion as it is more remote -from its source, throwing down more sediment in the lower than in the -upper part of its course, many rivers in hot climates undergo a -diminution in the quantity of their water as they approach their -outlets. Mr. Barrow observed these curious effects of sands in the -southern part of Africa, on the banks of the Orange river. They have -also become the subject of a very important discussion in the various -hypotheses that have been formed respecting the course of the Niger.”</p> - -<p>At the time we crossed the Apure, it was considerably below the average -width, as we were then in the midst of the dry season; nevertheless, it -presented a formidable obstacle to our progress. There being only one -canoe at the pass, the whole morning was spent in the transportation of -our bulky riding-gear and luggage; and the breeze setting in shortly -after<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> our arrival, the passage of the horses was postponed until noon, -in consequence of the agitated state of the water. It would have been -rather hazardous to expose our valuable steeds to the “chopping sea,” -which, beating against the animals’ nostrils, is apt to stop their -respiration, and as they then lose their steadiness in swimming, are -rendered liable to be drowned.</p> - -<p>We were met on the opposite bank of the river by a committee of -gentlemen in their shirt sleeves, like ourselves, commissioned by the -inhabitants of Apurito to tender our Leader the hospitalities of their -village. Prominent among them was the general overseer of his estate. -Commandant Rávago, a tough, wiry, and weather-beaten individual, whose -nose Nature had made of an unjustifiable length, and who discoursed in a -language peculiar to himself. Indeed, it required one to be well versed -in the jargon of the Llanos to understand his dissertations upon matters -and things in general; for he pretended to be a connoisseur in every -thing, except languages; the English, especially, was peculiarly -distasteful to his ears, and whenever he heard us conversing in that -tongue, he declared in his patois, that it reminded him of a pack of -horses neighing to each other. Notwithstanding his uncouth manner and -appearance, our overseer was a very shrewd fellow, and quite <i>au fait</i> -in all matters appertaining to cattle farms.</p> - -<p>As for the village or port of Apurito, it was a mere assemblage of -mud-plastered cottages, thatched, like all houses in that region, with -palm leaves. Some of them had doors and windows of planed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> boards; but -the greater part were free to whoever and whatever chose to walk or -<i>crawl</i> into them; no church, no school-house, no building devoted to -public meetings of any sort. The Alcalde, that most important -functionary in small Spanish communities, held his audiences in the -narrow corridor of his hut, while the <i>sala</i> was devoted to the -all-absorbing game of <i>monte</i>. Once a year the Padre, next in importance -to his Honor the Alcalde, paid a visit to the village, when all the boys -and girls who had not been baptized were brought before him at his -lodgings, where the ceremony was performed in a somewhat informal -manner, and without special regard being paid to the strict injunctions -of the Church. There were a few storehouses scattered along the banks of -the river, where all business transactions were carried on. These were -principally in hides, which are given in exchange for the few articles -of barter brought from the Orinoco. Hides, in fact, are the bank notes -of the Llanos; and although rather voluminous and uncleanly, they change -hands as readily as any “paper” that was ever in “the market.” These are -taken to Ciudad Bolívar, formerly Angostura, in bongos and one-mast -sailing vessels called <i>lanchas</i>, which return laden with salt, knives, -blankets, and printed calicoes, articles of prime necessity among the -inhabitants. Other ports along the Apure, such as Nutrias and San -Fernando, carry on a very extensive trade in these goods. The -first-named town adds largely to her exports, bringing in the -agricultural products of the adjoining province of Barinas. These are -coffee, cacao, indigo, and tobacco; the last being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> highly prized in -Germany for meerschaums, and always obtaining a ready sale at Bolívar.</p> - -<p>The course of the Apure being nearly in a straight line from west to -east, the trade winds blowing across the plains in the summer season -play a very important part in propelling, even against the current, the -heaviest craft sailing up the river. During the rainy season, the -westerly winds combine with the current of the stream in expediting the -progress of vessels. Of late, several steamboats have been added to -those already engaged in this traffic; and I am told are doing a very -profitable business. God speed them!</p> - -<p>“During the time of great floods,” writes Humboldt, “the inhabitants of -these countries, to avoid the force of the currents, and the danger -arising from the trunks of trees which these currents bring down, -instead of ascending the beds of rivers in their boats, cross the -savannas. To go from San Fernando to the villages of San Juan de Payara, -San Rafael de Atamaica, or San Francisco de Capanaparo, they direct -their course due south, as if they were crossing a single river of -twenty leagues broad. The junctions of the Guarico, the Apure, the -Cabullare, and the Arauca with the Orinoco, form, at a hundred and sixty -leagues from the coast of Guiana, a kind of interior delta, of which -hydrography furnishes few examples in the Old World. According to the -height of the mercury in the barometer, the waters of the Apure have -only a fall of thirty-four toises from San Fernando to the sea. The fall -from the mouths of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> the Osage and the Missouri to the bar of the -Mississippi is not more considerable. The savannas of Lower Louisiana -everywhere remind us of the savannas of the Lower Orinoco.”—<i>Travels to -the Equinoxial Regions.</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">SAVANNAS OF APURE.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">After</span> a thorough examination of animals and baggage, to see that all was -as it ought to be, we left the uninteresting village of Apurito for our -cattle-estate of San Pablo de Apure, a few miles further south. As we -passed the last house fronting the river, Mr. Thomas descried a -jaguar-skin, which the owner of the hut had spread to dry upon the -fence. Wishing to examine it more closely, he spurred his mule ahead and -was in the act of seizing the skin, when the animal, whose view of it -had until then been obstructed by the other beasts, coming unexpectedly -into close proximity with the—to him—fearful object, drew back in -terror, snorting, kicking, and plunging so violently as to capsize the -unlucky artist upon the sandy beach. The abhorrence with which mules -regard the South American tiger, is one of the most curious phenomena of -animal instinct with which I am acquainted; not only do they manifest it -at sight<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> of the creature, but also by their scent, while the animal is -still a long distance off, and yet, in most cases, they have never seen -a tiger, as was the case in the present instance, this mule having been -reared in the <i>potreros</i> of San Pablo de Paya, where tigers are rarely, -if ever, met with.</p> - -<p>After a ride of a few hours through alternate glades of gigantic mimosas -and verdant savannas, we reached San Pablo before night had cast her -gloom over those solemn wilds. The house was neat and well located, -commanding an extended view of the country and innumerable herds of -cattle grazing in the distance. There were, besides, a large <i>caney</i> or -barracoon for the accommodation of the men and their chattels, and a -detached hut in which the culinary functions of the establishment were -to be performed.</p> - -<p>The appellation of San Pablo, conferred on this farm also—although the -owner possessed already another of the same name—made me suspect that -snakes were not uncommon in that country, the reality of which fact I -ascertained the first time that I strolled any considerable distance -from the house. In a country where saints are supposed to exert an -unbounded influence over all human affairs, it is not unusual to give to -houses and localities, threatened with some special calamity, the name -of the saint who is considered the patron or defender from that -particular evil: thus places which are frequently visited by -thunderstorms, are called after Santa Barbara; those infested with -snakes, receive the name of San Pablo, &c., &c.</p> - -<p>Although this farm formed part of the demesne we came to inspect, we did -not remain there longer than<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> was absolutely necessary to investigate -into its general condition.</p> - -<p>When the order was given to remove to El Frio—another farm further -westward—we gladly saddled horses and started off at a brisk pace over -those fresh and beautiful prairies which, with their perpetual grassy -carpet, caused us to feel as if we were coming into a land of promise -and contentment, instead of one of toil and hardship. Indeed, every -thing denoted that we were now entering on far different scenes from -those we had left across the river. It seemed a terrestrial paradise, -where a beneficent Providence had congregated every animal most needed -by man. Now it was the slender forms of deer in herds bounding swiftly -over the greensward; now the gristly wild hogs and capyvaras making -hastily for the nearest swamp to avoid the eager chase of our men. -Occasionally might be seen a redoubtable wild bull, retiring sulkily and -slowly at the head of his shaggy troop, as if wishing to dispute our -right to enter his domain. Vegetation, however, seemed to flourish here -less than in other places we had visited, as, excepting a few scattered -palms of a new variety, and some straggling Matas—which, from the -mirage continually before us, appeared like fairy groves set in clearest -water—nothing but the fine and level lawn met the eye for many miles.</p> - -<p>Unlike the higher plains, where only a coarse herbage predominates, the -savannas of Apure are characterized by a luxuriant growth of various -grasses, which, like those of the Portuguesa, preserve a uniform verdure -throughout the year. These grasses—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span>some of which are as soft and -pliable as silk—are most important in the economy of cattle-breeding in -the savannas watered by the Apure and its tributaries. The prodigious -increase of animals in these plains is mainly owing to the superiority -of the pastures over those of the upper regions of the Llanos, from -whence the farmer is compelled to migrate with his stock every summer.</p> - -<p>I noticed in Apure three varieties of grass, which in richness of flavor -and nutritious qualities can hardly be surpassed by any other fodder -plants of the temperate zones. In the early part of the rainy season, -the granadilla—a grass reaching to about four feet in height, with -tender succulent blades and panicles of seed not unlike some varieties -of broomcorn—starts with the earliest showers of spring. It grows with -great rapidity, and is greedily sought by all ruminants; but being an -annual, soon disappears, leaving no vestige of its existence. In the -alluvial bottomlands subject to the periodical inundation, two other -grasses, no less esteemed for their nutriment, have an uninterrupted -growth and luxuriance which the hottest season cannot blast; these are -the <i>carretera</i>, named from the beautiful prairie-goose that feeds on -it, and the <i>lambedora</i>, so termed on account of its softness, animals -feeding on it appearing to lick rather than masticate it. Cattle and -horses thrive on it very perceptibly, and even calves only a fortnight -old, may be left to shift for themselves amidst those nutritious -pastures.</p> - -<p><i>Esteros</i> is the name by which these perennial meadows are there -designated. They have moreover the</p> - -<p><a name="ill_13" id="ill_13"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b136b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b136b_sml.jpg" width="509" height="322" alt="Image unavailable: GARZERO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GARZERO.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">advantage of retaining water enough throughout the year to make them the -resort of all kinds of quadrupeds and of every fowl whom “Nature has -taught to dip the wing in water,” the former to allay their thirst and -feast on the fine grass, and the latter for the purpose of raising their -young in the vicinity of ponds well stocked with fish of all varieties.</p> - -<p>No description can convey a just idea of the appearance presented by -these lagoons, crowded with almost every variety of animal. The birds in -particular—most of which belong to the extensive family of cranes—seem -to have migrated there from all quarters of the globe. These fluttering -communities of aquatic birds are known in the country under the -appropriate name of <i>garzeros</i>, from the many -<i>garzas</i>—herons—predominating in them. The immense number of these may -be conceived from the fact that their colonies sometimes embrace several -miles in extent. I noticed there also various kinds of -cranes—<i>garzones</i>—one of them, called the soldier, from its erect -bearing and martial air—is over five feet in height, with a bill fully -a foot long. The <i>garzas</i> were of various sizes and colors, some -snow-white, some a delicate blue, others gray or pink, and many of a -brilliant scarlet. Although cranes and herons are species very nearly -allied, yet they verify the old saying, “birds of a feather flock -together,” for each keeps quite distinct from the other. They generally -select the spreading top of a low tree—<i>caujaro</i>—growing in vast -quantities near the water, in which to build their nests; these are of -dry sticks very ingeniously interwoven among the branches. Well-beaten -tracks are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> made under the bushes by the tramp of many suspicious -characters of the feline tribe, who make these feathered colonies their -favorite resort, where they improve every opportunity of appropriating -any young birds that may chance to fall from the nests.</p> - -<p>As we rode past several ponds, covered with a kind of water-lily, whose -flowers are of a dark purple color, myriads of ducks, of the small -species called <i>güiriries</i>, rose in the air, actually for the moment -obscuring the sun. They uttered a shrill note, clearly repeating the -sound from which they are named, so that the hunter easily discovers -their whereabout. There were, besides, great numbers of a larger species -of duck—the <i>pato real</i>, or royal duck—so named, I presume, from a -graceful tuft of black feathers with which it is crowned. Here and there -a brace of <i>carreteros</i> soared over head, uttering their peculiar -rolling notes; the hoarse quacking of the male bird, followed by the -shrill cries of the female, make perfect the before-mentioned -resemblance to the rumbling of cartwheels.</p> - -<p>During the moulting season, the people in the neighborhood of these -lagoons resort to them from time to time, and drive without difficulty -towards the farm-house as many of these ducks as they may desire. I was -assured by several reliable individuals that not far from San Pablo -there is a lagoon on the borders of which a regiment of cavalry once -encamped, and lived during a fortnight exclusively on these birds, -without any apparent diminution of their numbers.</p> - -<p>This prodigious exuberance of animal life has justly entitled the Apure -to the reputation of being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> a land of plenty; but, alas, it is also a -land of death! as, from the bottom of these extensive marshes miasmas of -a pestilential nature are continually arising, which, at certain seasons -of the year, render this fine country almost uninhabitable for man. They -are also the abode of those enormous water-snakes or anacondas, known in -the country under the name of <i>culebras de agua</i>, in contradistinction -to the boa constrictor or <i>traga-venado</i>, so termed on account of the -ease with which it gorges itself with a whole deer at once. Both of -these snakes are also remarkable for the strength which enables them to -crush their victims in the coils of their huge muscular bodies; but the -anaconda is by far the more voracious and bold of the two, attacking not -only inferior animals, such as deer, capyvaras, and young calves, but -even that pride of the herd, the <i>padrote</i>, cannot always escape the -deadly embrace. Woe to the unsuspecting colt or heifer, who, panting -with thirst and heat, should incautiously plunge into one of these -modern Stygian lakes, for the coil of the monster will in an instant be -around it, followed by a fearful cracking of its bones. This -accomplished, the snake proceeds to cover the whole mangled body with a -slimy secretion from his mouth which assists him in the process of -deglutition. Should it be a stag—the head of which presents the -formidable obstacle of its huge antlers—the snake commences by -swallowing first the hind quarters, trusting to time and the natural -process of decay for the head to drop off. In this plight the anaconda -is often found, looking like an immense log, stretched out in the soft -mud of lagoons, whence they are then easily<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> dragged by means of a lazo, -tied to the tail of a horse. On examining the mouth of one of these -snakes, it will be found that the jaws are furnished with a row of sharp -and crooked teeth, bent inward like tenter hooks; with these he seizes -his prey, and holds it securely until the victim, unable to struggle -longer, drops exhausted. What appears most extraordinary in these -unequal contests, is the tenacity with which the snake adheres to the -soft mud of the lagoon, there being neither rock nor stump to which he -can secure himself. Nor will the efforts of a large bull, no matter how -powerful, be sufficient to drag the snake one inch out of his element, -unless he is first cut asunder. In darting upon a quadruped, the -anaconda invariably aims at its snout, the animal seldom escaping when -once the terrible fangs have been buried in its flesh. It is not an -unusual thing, however, for a bull to cut a snake asunder in his violent -struggles; then the shaggy victor may be seen proudly marching at the -head of his troop with this unsightly trophy hanging from his nose. The -toughness of the anaconda’s skin makes it eagerly sought after by the -inhabitants for straps and various other objects susceptible of injury -from friction, as they outwear those made from any other material. The -fat is also much esteemed for burning, and as a lubricator for the bones -and tendons of persons afflicted with rheumatism, or rigidity of limb. -This oil is perfectly clear and transparent, without any disagreeable -odor, and is readily absorbed into the system by simply rubbing it on -the skin.</p> - -<p>Shortly after leaving San Pablo, we had a spirited<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> chase after a herd -of wild pigs. There were upwards of twenty browsing on the borders of a -pond, and in an instant the whole plain—in such repose a few moments -before—resounded with the cries and clatter of our horsemen in eager -pursuit of this delicious game of the Llanos. Many of the men being -provided with lances, they had no difficulty in despatching most of -those whose fate threw them in the way of the remorseless cavaliers. But -an old <i>berraco</i> or boar, which seemed to be the sultan of the grisly -community, harassed by the combined attacks of several horsemen, -suddenly whirled round and made a gallant stand, determined, as it -appeared, not to give up without a fierce resistance. At first it was -supposed that three or four men would be sufficient to bring him down, -and that number were accordingly sent after him; but finding the -engagement protracted, several others, including myself, went to their -assistance. On reaching the spot a fearful spectacle was presented to -us. The infuriated animal, his eyes shooting fire, and fiercely grinding -his tusks, stood at bay a short distance from his aggressors, his mouth -covered with a bloody froth, while one of the men lay bleeding profusely -from a wound on the thigh inflicted by the sharp tusks of the boar. We -learned that Cipriano, the wounded hunter’s name, perceiving that the -lances of his companions only succeeded in irritating the boar, very -foolishly leaped from his saddle, and drawing his sword, deliberately -attacked him without even taking the precaution of covering his -movements with the sheepskin from his saddle, as is practised in -contests with wild bulls. The man<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> boasted with reason of being the most -skilful matador in all the Apure; but in this case he did not reckon on -the tough hide of his opponent; for, at the first rush of the boar upon -him, and in spite of the steadiness with which he aimed the stroke, the -well-tempered steel bent like a reed the moment it encountered the -shoulder of the boar, leaving Cipriano completely at the mercy of the -enraged brute. The consequence, as I have already stated, was a severe -gash, almost laying bare the femoral bone of the unfortunate matador. -The tusks of the wild boar, especially those of the lower jaw, are so -long and sharp, that the animal makes use of them as a bull does of his -horns. The upper ones rest directly upon the lower, and his constant -grinding of them, especially when he is enraged, soon wears the points -into a broad and sharp edge. United, these tusks form a perfect circle -five or six inches in diameter. The services of our surgeon, Dr. -Gallegos, were immediately called into requisition, who dressed the -wound, while the companions of the suffering hunter endeavored to avenge -him. They rained a shower of lances upon the body of the enraged beast, -but, apparently, with no better effect; for, with one powerful stroke of -his tusks, he broke in two the shaft of some and carried away the head -of others. Doubtless we should have succeeded in finishing him after a -time; but the helpless condition of our companion requiring especial -care, we placed him on his saddle, for want of better conveyance, and, -leaving the boar conqueror, proceeded on our journey.</p> - -<p>Having killed more animals than we could conveniently carry, we selected -two fat sows for our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span> breakfast, and left the remainder to the flock of -turkey-buzzards which, like a troop of hungry scavengers, followed our -line of march across the prairies.</p> - -<p>I may observe here that the wild boar of the Llanos is the common hog -run wild in consequence of the little or no care bestowed upon their -breeding in the cattle-farms, and as they find in these swamps all the -elements they require for their development, viz., roots of various -kinds, sweet herbs, eels, snakes, and mire <i>ad libitum</i>, their -propagation is greatly increased. Thus the number of pigs in these -savannas is almost incredible—in the lands of El Frio alone being -estimated at forty thousand—and a just idea may be formed of their -ravages from the fact that, for miles around, those fine prairies have -been completely ploughed up by them, rendering the ground exceedingly -dangerous for horses, and almost useless for cattle-breeding, by -destroying the fine pastures which are invariably replaced by a crop of -worthless weeds.</p> - -<p>Wild hogs, nevertheless, sometimes render good service by destroying the -snakes—for which they seem to have a particular penchant—especially -that little scourge of the savannas of Apure, the dreaded <i>matacaballo</i>.</p> - -<p>The tails of these hogs being especially long, and, as usual, twisted, -they swing them round continually when running—a peculiarity which did -not escape a benighted son of Africa, who was being trained at a -cattle-farm to the business of the Llanos, and which occasioned quite a -ludicrous scene at one of these hunts. He had become already expert in -the use of the lazo, and was one day taken to the savanna<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> by the -overseer for the purpose of procuring an ox for slaughter, when they -fell in with a fine hog, which at once changed their plans, and they -immediately gave him chase. None of the men had lazos, except the negro, -and he was therefore commanded to follow and secure the game; but -although he rode a very swift horse, and was often within range of the -lazo, he was observed each time to slacken his pace without any apparent -cause. “Now then, ... son of ... thy mother,” the Llanero vociferated, -“let go the lazo, or we will roast thee alive in his stead,” shouting at -him also many other no less characteristic expressions. But Sambo, -waving the lazo over his head in order to keep the noose open, would -again stop short of his mark, until the pig, who probably knew by this -time that he was wanted, straining every nerve to reach a swamp hard by, -succeeded at last in gaining a clump of wild plantains that bordered the -<i>estero</i>. Here the major-domo, losing his small remnant of patience, -quickly rode up to him, and discharging sundry lashes with his -<i>chaparro</i> upon the sooty skin of his apprentice, asked him, in a -thundering voice: “How now, <i>my master</i>, why did ye let the fellow go -without a single effort on thy part to secure him? Have not I taught -thee well enough how to handle a lazo, thou sooty imp?” “Oh! yessa, -massa,” quoth the darkey; “but, look yer, massa, when me wisher to lazo -pig, him wisher to lazo me neither;” imitating, at the same time, with -his arm the swinging of the pig’s tail.</p> - -<p>Very beautiful was the appearance of the many herds, each headed by its -<i>padrote</i>, on all sides dispersing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> at our approach. The bulls are -generally of a grave and quiet disposition when collected in herds, and -rather avoid the approach of man unless provoked to self-defence, when -they become very ferocious. Each troop is under the control of the most -powerful bull in the drove, a position which is only attained by dint of -strength and courage; as not only has he to defend his troop from the -attacks of the common enemy, but to maintain his supremacy against rival -enamorados. Thus the <i>padrote</i>, or big father, as he is appropriately -styled, can show many scars upon his tough hide, received in these -fierce combats. If a lion or jaguar approach during the night, the -<i>padrote</i> immediately takes all his measures for the defence of his -post. His first care is to compel the herd into a compact mass, and then -advances to engage the enemy in single combat, from which he rarely -fails to come off victorious. In the mean time the herd, within the -limited space into which they have been congregated, with heads lowered -towards the enemy, prepare to repulse the intruder and defend their -young by a formidable array of horns.</p> - -<p>Man is the only antagonist whose superiority the <i>padrote</i> will -acknowledge; but even this is not without an obstinate resistance -whenever he has an opportunity. Nor will he retire in a hurry from his -pursuers, but facing about from time to time, often succeeds in -thwarting their intentions and securing an honorable retreat.</p> - -<p>When the sun is high in the meridian, troops of these noble animals may -be seen slowly advancing towards the nearest <i>mata</i>, seeking to avoid -the excessive<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> heat of the day and to enjoy their siesta in cool -retirement. Here they amuse themselves sometimes in watching over their -harems, sometimes in making their toilet, which is rubbing the point of -their horns against the hard trunk of a palm tree, or any other -convenient object, until they become sharp as awls. Woe! then, to the -imprudent traveller who, overpowered by the heat, seeks refuge in one of -those groves, thus intruding upon the sanctuary of his bullship’s -seraglio. Should he succeed in escaping safe and sound, his horse is -certain of being severely chastised for his master’s indiscretion.</p> - -<p>An adventurous Briton, who once penetrated into one of those haunts -sacred to Taurus, came very near losing his life in consequence. He -fortunately escaped with only a few scratches and contusions; but his -clothes were torn from his body by the horns and hoofs of the bull. It -chanced in this wise: The intensity of the sun’s rays had compelled the -traveller and his companion—a shrewd old Llanero, who acted as -guide—to seek shelter under a solitary grove. On a closer acquaintance -they judged it to be the retreat of a wild bull, from the deep scars -observable on the bark of the trees, evidently caused by some animal’s -horns. They were not mistaken, for they soon discovered at a short -distance, quietly grazing, the probable owner of the rural retreat. -Knowing from experience that this would be a very unsafe spot for their -siesta, the Llanero advised that they should move off at once, rather -than be ejected thence, as would surely be the case if they remained -much longer. But John Bull, with characteristic pride, and trusting -entirely<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> to his fine brace of pistols, laughed at the idea of giving up -his comfortable quarters, without at least a struggle for their -possession. Ordering the man to sling his hammock, he carefully examined -his pistols, after which he retired to his aërial couch. The Llanero -shook his head and very wisely omitted unsaddling the horses, contenting -himself with merely unfastening the straps. Presently the bull began to -advance in the direction of the <i>mata</i>, which the phlegmatic Englishman -no sooner perceived, than quitting his hammock, he seized his pistols -and went to the encounter. The Llanero crossed himself, and taking the -horses aside, proceeded to secure the saddles and to tie the lazo to the -tail of his own steed. In the mean time the bull continued leisurely -advancing, apparently without much noticing his uninvited guests; -occasionally, however, uttering deep bellowings expressive of his -displeasure. Bang! bang! went the two pistols; but before the smoke had -cleared, the Llanero beheld his companion stretched upon the ground and -fiercely trampled under the feet of the infuriated animal. Swift as -thought, the Llanero sprang into the saddle, and spreading his lazo, -whirled it two or three times above his head; then let it fall around -the horns of the bull at the very instant he was about to transfix the -prostrate traveller. Thus providentially prevented from doing further -injury, he was easily hamstrung and finally despatched by the captors. -That the Englishman escaped being instantly killed, can only be -accounted for by the fact that a bull often misses his aim from the very -fury of his attack.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">EL FRIO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> arriving at El Frio, we were agreeably surprised at finding more -spacious accommodations than we had anticipated. The house, although -thatched like all the rest with palm leaves, was spacious and well built -of <i>pajareque</i>; that is, the framework of the walls was of strong posts -of timber, well lathed and plastered over with soft mud mixed with -straw. In addition to a large <i>sala</i> or reception room, it contained -three or four sleeping apartments; but these last were so full of bats, -that it was impossible to pass a comfortable night in them, especially -on account of the disagreeable odor proceeding from these disgusting -creatures, while the incessant bird-like chirping sound which they made -overhead, completely murdered our first night’s sleep. We tried in vain -to smoke them out by means of dried cow dung. They absented themselves -during a portion of the day, but were sure to return at dusk, bringing -with them an abundant supply of wild berries for their supper, some of -which they were constantly dropping in our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span> hammocks, finally compelling -us to seek refuge in the open air of the corridors and courtyard.</p> - -<p>Apart from the mansion stood a row of smaller structures containing the -kitchen and storerooms of the farm, which being useless to us, we -abandoned to the bats and turkey-buzzards. Our cooking, as usual, was -left to our skilful <i>chef</i> Mónico and his satellites, who preferred the -<i>sans façon</i> style of the camp to confining themselves in the narrow -range of a kitchen.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>That which chiefly attracted my attention at this farm was the -substantial nature of the fence encompassing the buildings, capable of -resisting not only the sudden rush of a herd of cattle, for which -purpose it was intended, but also a heavy cannonade, in case of need. It -was constructed of enormous blocks of trees, almost impervious to steel -or fire, driven into the ground, each as close to the other as possible, -and neatly trimmed at top so as to present an even surface. I was unable -to comprehend by what means those monster rails could have been removed -from the forest. This, I afterwards ascertained, had been accomplished -during the inundation of the savannas, when they are easily transported -in <i>balsas</i> or rafts made of lighter wood. The trees yielding this -everlasting timber are two distinct species of acacias, known in the -country under the euphonious names of <i>Angelino</i> and <i>Acapro</i>, either of -which will turn the edge of the best tempered steel if great care is not -used. I was shown here two uprights to the principal gate of the -<i>majada</i> or great enclosure for cattle, nearly a hundred years old, -still in perfect preservation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span> although standing in soil subject to -alternate inundations and parching heats.</p> - -<p>The <i>majada</i>, also formed of strong posts, was sufficiently spacious to -contain three thousand animals, with compartments for the accommodation -of the herds during the various operations of cattle farms. Although -there was abundant vegetable material for the comfort or security of the -inmates, I observed here, as everywhere, a total want of shade trees -around the houses. The Llaneros, although strongly addicted to the -“sweets of savage life,” are decidedly opposed to trees in the immediate -neighborhood of their dwellings. Trees, say they, attract the -thunderbolt of heaven and the wild beasts of the field, being besides -the natural refuge of snakes and mosquitoes during the great floods. -This lack of shade was the more regretted by us as we were then in the -midst of the summer solstice, when the sun pours its vertical rays upon -the dry soil, while each day between the hours of ten and eleven, a -strong breeze arose, sweeping over the exposed plain, and bringing with -it showers of sand; this lodged in our mouths, eyes and ears, and -mingled with the food, thus rendering it unpalatable even to our -carnivorous appetites. And yet, but a short distance from the house -bloomed an inviting grove, two or three miles in circumference; this a -man of taste could have readily converted into a delightful abode, -especially as in the rainy season the inundation of the surrounding -savannas would permit the approach of vessels from the Orinoco, by which -the owner could supply himself with all the comforts of civilized life. -This charming spot was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span> further embellished by a small lake, where we -daily watered our horses, though not without some risk to life and limb -on account of the <i>babas</i> and caimans swarming in its depths. Even the -shallower portions were so filled with sting-rays, caribes, and other -aquatic vermin, as to render bathing in it extremely hazardous. Our -ablutions, therefore, were limited to the occasional scrubbing of our -dusty and heated bodies with wet towels. The <i>babas</i>, although still -more repulsive in appearance than their relative of the long snout—the -crocodile—are considered a <i>bonne bouche</i>, especially the tail, the -flesh of which is said to rival chicken in its flavor. From this -uninviting fount of the desert, necessity compelled us to replenish our -gourds each afternoon, that the particles of sand and clay with which it -was filled might have time to settle during the night.</p> - -<p>The summer breezes, although disagreeable in many respects, are yet most -necessary, carrying off noxious exhalations arising from the marshy -deposits which remain in those low grounds long after the waters have -subsided; otherwise those regions would be uninhabitable. The Apure is -especially salubrious in the dry season, and were it not for their -imprudences, the inhabitants would enjoy perfect health during at least -seven months of the year. But these people, careless of consequences, -and trusting to their iron constitutions, are not deterred, while in the -excitement of a long chase, from plunging into one of these pestiferous -marshes after the object of their pursuit. The result is a severe -reaction of the system, followed by violent spasms, fevers, or that most -horrid<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> of diseases, elephantiasis or <i>mal de San Lazaro</i>, so prevalent -in the hot regions of tropical America. Add to this recklessness the -great want of medical resources in the country, and the consequent -wretchedness and misery can be readily imagined. Nevertheless, the -inhabitants seem to care so little about these endemic vicissitudes, -that in time one accustoms himself also to view them in the same spirit -of fatalism which they attach to every event of their lives.</p> - -<p>I was never weary of admiring the beauty of the sky and transparency of -the atmosphere at this season. Objects three or four miles distant -appeared as if actually only a few rods from the beholder, a -circumstance which often misled me when in my rambles after game I had -to traverse the plain on foot, occasioning frequent disappointments in -my reckonings.</p> - -<p>The radiation of heat evolved from the earth at night, produced by the -perfect clearness of the sky, was so great at times as to produce a very -sensible degree of cold, which rendered the use of blankets quite -acceptable; hence the name of <i>El Frio</i> given to this estate. The -evenings, especially, were so raw and chilly, that in order to keep -warm, we passed a great portion of the night in revelry and dancing by -moonlight, although not one crinoline graced our soirées. But we had -excellent dancers of the <i>Zapateo</i>, a sort of “breakdown,” in which most -of our men exhibited a flexibility of feet and ankles which would have -done credit to the most accomplished Ethiopian troop.</p> - -<p>Our host <i>ño</i> Juan Manuel, as the overseer was familiarly styled, had -engaged the services of a celebrated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> player on the <i>bandola</i> from Banco -Largo, and there being no lack of <i>improvisatori</i> among us, these -nightly revels were conducted with all the <i>éclat</i> that circumstances -would permit. Among the bards who distinguished themselves most at such -times were the <i>Negro</i> Quintana, an old Sergeant of the Guard, whose -constant attendance for many years on his beloved Chief and “Master,” as -he styled the General, had endeared him to the latter; and Sarmiento, as -the other was named, who acted in the capacity of <i>caporal</i> to the -cattle farm of San Pablo. Both of these made themselves famous by the -wonderful facility with which they improvised on any given subject. They -occasionally varied the performances by singing to their guitars ballads -whose burden was invariably some adventure arising from the eventful -life in the pampas. Of these choice morceaux the most popular were -“Mambrun,” an imitation of the old French song, “<i>Malbrook s’en fut en -guerre</i>,” and “Marcelino.” The hero of this last was a renowned bandit, -who for a long time baffled all efforts to capture him, but who finally -received his deserts from the hands of a traitor, who joined his forays -for the purpose of betraying him to his enemies.</p> - -<p>Marcelino was a common <i>peon</i> in one of the cattle farms bordering the -river Matiyure, but being of a restless and daring disposition, -preferred the roving life of a bandit to the more sober occupations of -the farm. Finding himself pursued by the hand of justice, he was -compelled for a time to seek refuge among the Indians south of the great -river Meta, who are at this day sole tenants of those immeasurable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> -wilds. His superior acquirements and boldness soon gained him the -confidence and respect of the savages, who finally adopted him for their -leader, following him in his marauding expeditions against the -defenceless cattle farms this side of the Arauca. Emboldened by success, -they attacked the wealthy town of that name, whence Marcelino carried -off a beautiful woman, the wife of a respectable farmer of the place, -who employed every means in his power to recover her. All efforts, -however, were for a time fruitless, owing to the wild nature of the -country and the cunning of her captor; but he was finally taken in one -of his expeditions. The intention had been to send him to Achaguas, with -which object he was well bound and placed under a strong escort; but -being a great favorite with all classes of Llaneros, who admire valor in -every form, he was finally given in charge of the famous Manuel -Blanco—a rich land owner of the Apure—at the earnest solicitation of -the latter, who promised to see him safely delivered to the authorities. -On the way thither, however, Marcelino managed to give his bondsman the -slip, and escaped to his favorite haunts again. All further attempts to -retake him failing at that time, a bold sambo from the upper country -volunteered to penetrate into the unknown region, intending to decoy him -and his savage band to a certain cattle farm where a strong picket of -cavalry would lie in wait. Having represented to Marcelino that immense -wealth in money and jewels was possessed by the owners of the farm, the -bandit concluded to come out of his fastness and retrieve his former -fame by a bold<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span> dash at the cattle farm of Herradero. On arriving at the -place, where matters having been arranged as had been agreed upon -between Maldonado—the betrayer’s appropriate name—and the officers of -justice, Marcelino and his band were surprised. He endeavored to escape, -but Maldonado spurring his horse toward the unsuspecting bandit, pierced -him with his sword. Without delaying he then pushed on, followed by the -<i>hateros</i>, to the camp where the unfortunate lady was still a captive. -They found her surrounded by a train of red skin dames of honor, all of -whom were afterward distributed as servants among the families of their -conquerors.</p> - -<p>Nearly all the Indians of that tribe were destroyed on this occasion, -only a few escaping to the Big Forest, where they bewailed among the -monkeys and jaguars of those solitudes the loss of their favorite -chieftain. The ballad which commemorates the event, commences:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“A Marcelino lo mataron<br /></span> -<span class="i1">En el hato de Herradero,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Y los Indios lo lloraron<br /></span> -<span class="i1">A su capitan vaquero.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Marcelino the bold was slain,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Slain at the farm of Herradero;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And the Indians lament in vain<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Their loved sportsman, chieftain and hero.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Maldonado, who at heart was a rogue of the same stamp as Marcelino, -having tasted of the independent roving life of the bandit, found it so -congenial that he concluded to follow the illustrious example of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> -former leader and associate; but wanting in the principal traits which -had raised the latter to his exalted position, was speedily destroyed -and almost precisely in the same manner which he had devised for the -overthrow of the renowned Marcelino. Previous to this, however, -Maldonado, in imitation of his former chieftain, and availing himself of -the defenceless state of the town of Guasdualito, attempted to carry off -from thence la Villafañe, a lady celebrated for her beauty. With this -intent, he brought to her door a horse already saddled for her, and -commanded her to mount and follow him. This she indignantly refused to -do; but finding all entreaties and resistance of no avail, she seized -some poison from a drawer at hand, and with resolution worthy of a Roman -matron, placed it to her lips, exclaiming, as she did so, that she would -surely swallow it if he did not instantly quit her presence. The threat -proved successful; for the bandit, awed by her heroism, left her.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The business of the pampas required us to be up at the first peep of -dawn. A cup of coffee and milk, mixed with ground parched corn—which I -would recommend to all travellers on long journeys of this sort—served -us until breakfast time. I amused myself during the day sketching in -company with my friend, Mr. Thomas, while the men made their -preparations for a grand hunt among the cattle of the estate. The most -important of these arrangements was that of manufacturing from hides -sufficient lazos for the sport. There is a marked difference between the -skins of bullocks raised in the shady parts of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span> Llanos and those -roaming wild over the deserts of the Apure. Although the former are much -thicker, the lazos made from the hides of cattle constantly exposed to -the sun’s rays are infinitely stronger. The lazo is easily made. A fresh -hide, spread upon the ground with the hair downward, is neatly cut into -a long strap two inches wide. This is twisted into a tight thong and -stretched out to dry between two posts, after which it is well rubbed -with fat. When thoroughly dried, a loop is made at one end; through -this, when required for use, the thong is passed, forming the noose or -lazo proper, while the other end is firmly tied to the horse’s tail, -using its long hair for the purpose. In other parts of South America -they fasten the lazo to a ring in the saddle; but this arrangement, -besides causing too great strain upon the horse’s back, is fraught with -danger to the rider in case of a recoil from the thong if a break occur. -The thorough training which horses receive in the Llanos is invaluable -in such cases, as not only does the success of the chase depend on the -readiness with which he obeys his rider, but even after the game is -secured with the lazo, it is necessary that the horse should range -instantly on a line with the struggling victim; but unless this is -effected before the strain comes upon the lazo, the horse and his rider -are inevitably overthrown. The hunter, at the moment of using the lazo, -coils a portion of the thong, which he holds with his left hand, and -with the rest forms the running noose, which is repeatedly whirled -around his head to keep it open. When within reach of his mark, he aims -at the animal’s head and throws the noose in such a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> manner as to cause -a rapid uncoiling of the thong in his left hand. Some Llaneros are so -expert as to entangle at the same instant the feet and head of the -animal, on which he is quickly brought to the ground.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>We were joined at El Frio by another party of cattle hunters, under the -leadership of an old acquaintance, Colonel Castejon, widely celebrated -in the Llanos for great bravery and skill in the pursuits of the -country. He came to help us in the hunt after wild cattle, and to help -himself to as many animals as he could drive home with his party. We -also had the honor of a visit from the Governor of the Province, Señor -Arciniega, a jovial, talkative, and well-informed functionary, and the -most accomplished marksman of the Apure. It was therefore proposed to -have a grand shooting match in the open field, and with this view we all -started one morning for a creek called Macanillal, about three miles -distant, intending to use the crocodiles, by far the most difficult -animal to shoot, as targets. On entering the woody banks of the creek, -we were agreeably surprised to discover on the soft mud evident proofs -that we had come in the right direction, not only for our anticipated -sport with the water monsters, but also that we were likely to have a -brush with even a more formidable antagonist—the jaguar. Footprints of -this splendid animal were so numerous, that we forgot for a time the -crocodiles and made diligent search for the nobler game. We had small -success, however, having no dogs with us to drive him from the jungle; -for, unless<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> he has the advantage over his adversaries, the jaguar never -shows himself in the day-time.</p> - -<p>As we came in sight of the water, I was astonished at seeing its whole -surface bubbling as if in a state of effervescence, and at finding also -on nearer inspection that this was occasioned by the blowing close to -the water’s surface of millions of <i>coporos</i>. Other varieties of fish -were also so abundant, that we shot many near the shore, among them a -very fine catfish.</p> - -<p>The report of the guns brought to the surface numbers of crocodiles, -which we prepared to assail from the high bank of the creek. To our -honorable guest, the Governor, was conceded the privilege of shooting -the first, which he did with great accuracy, sending a ball directly -through one of the creature’s eyes. Still the shot did not kill him -instantly, as would have been the result with any other animal; and he -plunged through the creek for a time at a furious rate, lashing the -water with his powerful tail, and causing great commotion among the -finny multitude. The other crocodiles in lieu of being alarmed with the -uproar, were only rendered more inquisitive, dashing forward with -gleaming eyes and tusks, which so fascinated my friend the English -artist, as rather endangered his safety in his eagerness to get a -thorough view of the reptiles. Forgetting his proximity to the -precipice, he approached it so nearly as to miss his footing, and would -doubtless have rolled into one of the open jaws below him, but for the -prompt assistance of a companion, who caught him as he was in the act of -falling.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span></p> - -<p>From the same place where the first shot was fired, we succeeded in -killing or wounding not less than twenty crocodiles; but the banks being -high and precipitous, we could not secure the carcases. One of these, -which lay stranded on a sand bank across the creek, being characterized -by a singular hump on his back, which added to his already monstrous -size, I felt a great desire to examine more closely. To accomplish this, -it was necessary to ford the creek lower down, where I was assured the -water was sufficiently low to allow of walking over. The undertaking was -not, however, without considerable risk from the numerous sting-rays and -caribes. But my interest in all pertaining to Nature’s works helped me -over to the other side, whither I was accompanied by Roseliano, a youth -attached to my family, famed as a dare-devil. With his assistance I -dragged the crocodile partly out of water, and was examining the load -which nature had placed upon his back, when Roseliano perceived a -movement of one of his eyes, the other having been shattered by the -bullet; we supposed he had been by this time quite dead. My young -companion, who had expressed his suspicions that the crocodile was only -feigning death, wishing to ascertain the truth, proposed stabbing him in -the armpit with his dagger. Before permitting this, I insisted upon -securing the jaws by means of a large stake which we sharpened at one -end and plunged into his nostrils, and I then leaned upon it with the -whole weight of my body. This precaution saved my companion, but came -very near proving fatal to myself, as the instant the crocodile felt the -cold steel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> between his ribs he raised his enormous head, lifting me at -least a foot from the ground; but was prevented from injuring me by the -stake which he caught between his powerful tusks, shattering it to -splinters, and then retreated to the middle of the creek. His triumph -was, however, of short duration; for, the blood oozing in torrents from -his wounds, he quickly fell a prey to thousands of hungry caribes.</p> - -<p>Sir Robert Schombourgh relates an incident which occurred during his -ascent of the river Berbice, and which further demonstrates the tenacity -of life in the cayman. “One was fired at, floating, and the ball took -off the end of the snout; it received another immediately afterward in -the hinder part of the skull which appeared to have taken effect; still, -the Indians were not sparing in their blows, and when there was not much -likelihood of its possessing a spark of life, it was deposited on the -bow of one of the corials. While the corial was drawn across the rapids, -two of the Arawaaks got courage and took it up in order to lay it in a -more convenient place; they had just effected this, when at one bound it -jumped out into the river and disappeared. The Indians looked quite -stupefied, and never afterward could be persuaded to touch a cayman.”</p> - -<p>The creek of Macanillal is also famous for its many water-dogs, or -<i>perros de agua</i> (Myopotamus coypos) and nutrias. The latter is a large -species of otter with a fine glossy fur. The former resembles a beaver -very closely, but has a round tail similar to that of the opossum. Both -animals live in the water,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> coming out occasionally to sun themselves on -the sand banks. In a hut near the scene of our last crocodile adventure -I saw a skin of the water-dog which measured five feet in length, -exclusive of the tail; but although I often made diligent search for -this singular amphibious animal, I never had an opportunity of making -his acquaintance. Like the otter he is extremely shy, and only the -practised eye of an Indian can trace him near the surface of the water -when he rises to breathe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> distant bellowing of bulls assembling their herds—sure sign that -the tiger was prowling near them—lulled us pleasantly to sleep in our -hammock-beds after the fatigues and labors of the day. Not unfrequently -we were treated to a serenading chorus of <i>araguatos</i> or howling -monkeys, and to the hootings of the <i>titirijí</i> or tiger-owl of the -pampas, whose peculiar cries might be readily mistaken, by an -unaccustomed ear, for the angry growl of that spotted bandit of the -forest—the jaguar. The neighboring woods were also the haunts of -several other species of owls and goat-suckers, whose dreary notes wake -mournful echoes by night and fill superstitious imaginations with -fearful and foreboding visions.</p> - -<p>The tiger-owl, which may be said to rank among the feathered tribe as -does the jaguar or American tiger among beasts, is nearly the size of a -domestic turkey. Like his powerful prototype, he is spotted with black, -and seldom makes himself heard excepting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> at night, when calling on his -mate; or during his nocturnal expeditions in the neighborhood of the -farmyard. He is then, not only a terror to the defenceless brood, but -also to the younger inmates of the house, who look upon him with a kind -of superstitious awe, on which account he sometimes escapes punishment.</p> - -<p>Less imposing in size than the preceding—although more terrifying in -their way—are the <i>ya-acabó</i> and the <i>pavita</i>—two other species of owl -considered harbingers of calamity or death, when heard fluttering around -a house. The first portends an approaching death among the inmates, and -is therefore looked upon with dread even by men who would not flinch at -the sight of the most formidable bull or jaguar. Yet that appalling cry, -<i>ya acabó! ya acabó!</i>—it is finished! it is finished!—seems so fraught -with evil mystery, that few hear it unmoved. The only expedient resorted -to, in such cases, is to form a cross with hot ashes in front of the -house, which, it is believed, will drive away this ill-omened messenger. -The <i>pavita</i>—although not larger than a turtle-dove, is also considered -<i>pajaro de mal agüero</i>—a bird of ill-omen—being no less—they -say—than the departed spirit of some good-natured relative come to warn -his kindred against approaching calamity. In these cases, as it is -believed that nothing is so acceptable to the poor soul as a few Pater -Nosters and Ave Marias, they usually try to disembarrass themselves of -the unwelcome visitor by reciting aloud several of these prayers, after -crossing themselves twice with much devotion. Whenever this owl’s -dreaded cry is heard, it is certain to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> be followed by a scene of great -confusion and dismay: the children run to the women and hide behind -their skirts; the women seek protection from the men; while these -content themselves with muttering the holy invocation <i>Ave Maria -Purisima!</i> which is ever with them the favorite talisman against danger.</p> - -<p>Great varieties of goat-suckers—not unlike huge butterflies fluttering -in the light evening breeze—also make their appearance at sundown, when -may be heard their singularly harsh notes closely resembling human -articulations.</p> - -<p>“The harmless, unoffending goat-sucker, from the time of Aristotle down -to the present day”—says Waterton in his “Wanderings”—“has been in -disgrace with man. Father has handed down to son, and author to author, -that this nocturnal thief subsists by milking the flocks. Poor injured -little bird of night! how sadly hast thou suffered, and how foul a stain -has inattention to facts put upon thy character! Thou hast never robbed -man of any part of his property, nor deprived the kid of a drop of -milk.”</p> - -<p>“When the moon shines bright, you may have a fair opportunity of -examining the goat-sucker. You will see it close by the cows, goats, and -sheep, jumping up every now and then, under their bellies. Approach a -little nearer—he is not shy, ‘he fears no danger for he knows no sin.’ -See how the nocturnal flies are tormenting the herd, and with what -dexterity he springs up and catches them as fast as they alight on the -belly, legs and udder of the animals. Observe how quiet they stand, and -how sensible they seem of his good offices, for they neither strike at -him,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> nor hit him with their tails, nor tread on him, nor try to drive -him away as an uncivil intruder. Were you to dissect him and inspect his -stomach, you would find no milk there. It is full of the flies which -have been annoying the herd.</p> - -<p>“The prettily mottled plumage of the goat-sucker, like that of the owl, -wants the lustre which is observed in the feathers of the birds of day. -This, at once, marks him as a lover of the pale moon’s nightly beams. -There are nine species here” (in Demerara). “The largest appears nearly -the size of the English wood-owl. Its cry is so remarkable, that having -once heard it, you will never forget it. When night reigns over these -immeasurable wilds, whilst lying in your hammock, you will hear this -goat-sucker lamenting like one in deep distress. A stranger would never -conceive it to be the cry of a bird. He would say it was the departing -voice of a midnight murdered victim, or the last wailing of Niobe for -her poor children, before she was turned into stone. Suppose yourself in -hopeless sorrow, begin with a high loud note, and pronounce, ‘ha, ha, -ha, ha, ha, ha, ha,’ each note lower and lower, till the last is -scarcely heard, pausing a moment or two betwixt every note, and you will -have some idea of the moaning of the largest goat-sucker in Demerara.</p> - -<p>“Four other species of the goat-sucker articulate some words so -distinctly, that they have received their names from the sentences they -utter, and absolutely bewilder the stranger on his arrival at these -parts. The most common one sits down close by your door, and flies and -alights three or four yards before you, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span> you walk along the road, -crying, ‘Who are you, who, who, who are you?’ Another bids you, ‘Work -away, work, work, work away.’ A third cries mournfully, ‘Willy, come go, -Willy, Willy, Willy come go.’ And high up the country a fourth tells you -‘Whip poor Will, whip, whip, whip poor Will.’ ”<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p> - -<p>There is a bird, however, among these nocturnal serenaders which -impresses you with very different feelings from those produced by the -owl species: this is the <i>Gallineta de monte</i> or forest-hen, a most -beautiful creature both in color and in shape, and not unlike a -water-hen in general appearance: the eyes especially are peculiarly -pretty, being of a brilliant ruby color and scintillate like fire. These -birds sing in concert, and their song—a lively chatter—has a mystic -fascination I am unable to describe. They are also considered delicate -eating; but unfortunately are very difficult to catch, for even after -being shot, unless wounded in the leg, they can outstrip the swiftest -hound, although their wings, being very small, avail them little. -Nature, however, has provided them with long yellow legs for the -purpose.</p> - -<p>The ponds and lagoons of the savannas are literally crowded with other -individuals of the feathered tribe, whose lively notes and incessant -chatterings contribute likewise to enliven the night. The most -conspicuous among them are various species of teal-ducks, such as -<i>güires</i> and <i>yaguasos</i>, and a long-legged plover—<i>alcaravan</i>.—This -last has the peculiarity of uttering a long, shrill sound at hourly -intervals, thus marking every<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> hour of the night after the manner of a -clock’s alarum. It is easily domesticated in the houses, where it -renders some service, not only by marking time, but also by giving -warning of the approach of strangers.</p> - -<p>The <i>aruco</i> is another bird of large size, whose drum-like notes are -often heard in the stillness of night. In size and plumage it greatly -resembles a turkey; but its flesh is so spongy, that in lifting one of -these uncouth birds from the ground, it appears like a mere bundle of -feathers. The wings of the male are provided with a pair of sharp spurs, -with which, when fighting, they greatly injure one another.</p> - -<p>Another feature of the cattle-farm is the great number of carrion -vultures and other birds of prey constantly hovering around the houses -and corrals, attracted thither by the carcasses of dead animals. The -most conspicuous among them is the <i>zamuro</i> or <i>gallinazo</i>, (Cathartes -Atratus,) that constant companion of rude civilization in all tropical -countries, but an indolent, greedy and disgusting associate. As, -however, they occasionally render service in the capacity of scavengers, -they are generally tolerated among the fowl of the farmyard. It is a -gregarious bird, and collects in large flocks on the roof and fences, -where, with knowing glances, they seem to be scanning all the actions of -the inmates. I often amused myself in threatening them with a missile of -some sort; but they never appeared to notice it, until they perceived me -to be in earnest: then with wings half spread and leaning forward, they -watched intently the moment when I should hurl it at them to evade it by -flight or a dodge of the head.—They build their nests in holes which -they dig<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> in the ground. Their young are white, gradually changing to -black as they grow older, and only two are raised by the parent every -year. Although essentially carrion feeders, the olfactories of these -birds are not so sensitive as to discover for them a dead animal—as -many suppose;—but their sight is very good. They fly to immense -heights, and thence examine every portion of the ground below them. In -doing this they may often be observed on motionless wing, whirling round -and round in graceful evolutions.</p> - -<p>With the <i>zamuro</i> is often associated another carrion vulture, the -<i>oripopo</i> or turkey-buzzard, (Vultur aura,) of the same size and with -similar habits to the former. It differs however, from its relative in -color—which is dark brown—and in having its neck more destitute of -feathers. It is also more elegant in form and in its graceful evolutions -through the air than the black vulture. The turkey-buzzard has a wide -geographical range, having been met by Audubon as far north as -Pennsylvania, and by Darwin in the arid plains of Patagonia and Tierra -del Fuego. When soaring through the upper regions of the air, it can be -at once recognized by its long, sweeping flight, accompanied by a -buzzing sound, much like the gust of the whirlwind, and perfectly -audible from a great distance.</p> - -<p>The <i>Rey-Zamuro</i> or king of the vultures, (Vultur papa,) larger than the -foregoing, is the most beautiful of its kind. Its plumage, resembling -down in softness and fineness, is of a pearly white, excepting the -wings, which are tipped with black. The breast and neck, although -entirely bare of feathers, are decked in the most brilliant tint of -blue, orange, and red, while a sort<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> of membranous excrescence crowns -the head, giving it a truly royal appearance.</p> - -<p>This King of the vultures has also very aristocratic habits, never -associating with any, not even those of his own tribe. It is a -remarkable fact that when he alights upon a carcass, amidst a flock of -other vultures, all these last retire, or make a circle round the -banquet. When his majesty has dined, he flies off, uttering a loud cry, -and only then his subjects venture to approach the carrion.</p> - -<p>There is in the more elevated part of the adjoining province of Barinas, -another bird of the same class—Vultur barbatus—which partakes of the -eagle and the vulture, but is larger than either. It is called in -consequence <i>gavilucho</i>—eagle-hawk—and has been seen at times -descending toward the plains. The legs and wings are very long and -powerful. It is said to be very handsome, but it is extremely shy of -man. The plumage is bluish, red, white and yellow. This bird joins to -the boldness and cruelty of the eagle, the loathsome voracity of the -vultures. It prefers live flesh, especially that of small quadrupeds, -and preys principally upon rabbits, goats, sheep and even young calves. -It raises only one brood in a season, and builds its nest amidst the -most inaccessible ledges of the Cordilleras.</p> - -<p>I will close the list of the carrion birds of Venezuela with enumerating -two others, nearly allied to the hawk, but partaking also of the -characteristics of the eagle. These are the <i>caricari</i> and <i>chiriguare</i> -(Polyborus Brasiliensis and P. Chimango) corresponding to the -<i>caracaras</i> and <i>carrancha</i> of Brazil and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span> Buenos Ayres, concerning -which Darwin has given this graphic account:</p> - -<p>“The <i>caracaras</i> are from their structure placed among the eagles: we -shall soon see how ill they become so high a rank. In their habits they -will supply the place of our carrion crows, magpies and ravens, a tribe -of birds widely distributed over the rest of the world, but entirely -absent in South America.</p> - -<p>“The carranchas, together with the chimango, constantly attend in -numbers the estancias and slaughtering-houses. If an animal dies on the -plain, the gallinazo commences the feast, and then the two species of -Polyborus pick the bones clean. These birds, although thus commonly -feeding together, are far from being friendly. When the carrancha is -quietly seated on the branch of a tree or on the ground, the chimango -often continues for a long time flying backward and forward, up and -down, in a semicircle, trying each time at the bottom of the curve to -strike its larger relative. Although the carranchas frequently assemble -in numbers, they are not gregarious; for in desert places they may be -seen solitary, or more commonly in pairs.</p> - -<p>“The carranchas are said to be very crafty, and to steal great numbers -of eggs. They attempt, also, together with the chimango, to pick off the -scabs from the sore backs of horses and mules. The poor animal, on the -one hand, with its ears down and its back arched, and, on the other -hand, the hovering bird, eyeing at the distance of a yard the disgusting -morsel, form a picture, which has been described by Captain Head with -his own peculiar spirit and accuracy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> These false eagles rarely kill -any living bird or animal; and their vulture-like, necrophagous habits -are very evident to any one who has fallen asleep on the desolate plains -of Patagonia, for when he wakes he will see, on each surrounding -hillock, one of these birds patiently watching him with an evil eye; it -is a feature in the landscape of these countries, which will be -recognized by every one who has wandered over them. If a party of men go -out hunting with dogs and horses, they will be accompanied during the -day by several of these attendants. After feeding, the uncovered craw -protrudes; at such times, and indeed, generally, the carrancha is an -inactive, tame, and cowardly bird. Its flight is heavy and slow, like -that of an English rook. It seldom soars; but I have twice seen one at a -great height gliding through the air with great ease. It runs, (in -contradistinction to hopping,) but not quite so quickly as some of its -congeners. At times the carrancha is noisy, but is not generally so; its -cry is loud, very harsh and peculiar, and may be likened to the sound of -the Spanish guttural <i>g</i>, followed by a rough double <i>r r</i>; when -uttering this cry, it elevates its head higher and higher, till at last, -with its beak wide open, the crown almost touches the lower part of the -head. This fact, which has been doubted, is quite true.”</p> - -<p>These birds are, however, a great blessing to the inhabitants of the -Llanos, who are indebted to them, not only for the destruction of vast -numbers of snakes and other reptiles, but for the service they render -conjointly with the vultures in consuming the offal near houses. They -seek their food both in dry lands<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span> and amidst the swampy borders of -rivers; on the one they find serpents and lizards in abundance; in the -other terrapins, frogs and small crocodiles. They are peculiar in always -killing their prey before commencing to devour it. If the <i>caricari</i> -meet with a serpent or young crocodile large enough to oppose a long -resistance, he approaches it sideways, shielded by one of his wings -spread out, and striking his prey near the head with his bill, retires -to a short distance to watch the result. A second blow is usually fatal, -upon which, seizing his victim in his claws, he tears it with his bill. -The sluggish tortoises and terrapins are easy prey for the <i>caricari</i>; -these he renders helpless by turning them upon their backs, then with -his powerful bill tears out the entrails.</p> - -<p>Singing birds are of great numbers and varieties in the Llanos; these -are mostly of the oriole species, all of which seem to delight in the -vicinity of man. They usually select some tree near the house, and from -its slender topmost branches, weave their hanging nests beyond reach of -mischievous boys and monkeys. One of these songsters, the <i>gonzal</i>, had -his nest close by the ropes of my hammock, where every morning before -sunrise he awakened me by his sweetly plaintive notes; and so fascinated -was I by this charming neighbor, that I always remained long after the -reveille, listening to his delicious music.</p> - -<p>There is another closely allied species, far superior to this or any -other bird of the kind with which I am acquainted. It is the troupial, -whose powerful notes can only be likened to strains of the violin. It is -easily domesticated in houses, and learns readily any<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> air from hearing -it whistled. I have one of these birds at home (in New York) which sings -the Cachuca, Yankee Doodle, and various other tunes, besides distinctly -whistling the name of a person. Its predominant colors are rich orange -and shining black, with white spots on the wings and bill in beautiful -contrast. It is a dangerous pet, however, if at large in a house, -attacking strangers furiously, and always aiming at the eyes.</p> - -<p>The <i>arrendajo</i>, or mocking-oriole, is perhaps the most extraordinary of -its kind, on account of its imitative proclivities, mimicking every -sound with such exactness, that he goes by the name of mocking-bird -among the colonists of Demerara; according to Waterton, “His own song is -sweet, but very short. If a toucan be yelping in the neighborhood, he -drops it, and imitates him. Then he will amuse his protector with the -cries of the different species of woodpecker, and when the sheep bleat -he will distinctly answer them. Then comes his own song again; and if a -puppy dog or a guinea fowl interrupt him, he takes them off admirably, -and by his different gestures during the time, you would conclude that -he enjoys the sport.”</p> - -<p>The arrendajo is, besides, a beautiful bird, and considered by -ornithologists a model of symmetry; his predominant color is a glossy -black, with the exception of his belly, rump and half the tail, which -are of a bright yellow. On each wing also he has a spot of the same -color. His beak is tinged of a delicate shade of lemon, while his eyes -are sky blue, the pupil being a deeper shade of the same.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_14" id="ill_14"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b174b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b174b_sml.jpg" width="547" height="298" alt="Image unavailable: THE RODEO." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE RODEO.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE RODEO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had long been impatiently awaiting the command for a general turnout -and chase among the legions of wild cattle grazing in the far horizon; -and when at length the day was appointed for a <i>rodeo</i> or grand hunt, -the universal gratification was boundless.</p> - -<p>It is customary in all large cattle farms to assemble from time to time -the cattle of certain districts for the purpose of selecting those which -require branding and marking, and also to allow the neighboring farmers -to separate from the herds many stray animals belonging to them, which, -from the open nature of the plains, it is impossible to keep within the -boundaries of their own savannas. This operation cannot be accomplished -without a great number of able and expert riders, who, on a given day, -surround a large area of country and drive toward one centre all the -cattle that may be found within the selected space. An extended circle -or ring is thus formed, enclosing a great horde of wild animals; these -are kept in check<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> by the well-concerted evolutions of the <i>vaqueros</i> -until the appointed rendezvous is reached, where, after allowing the -cattle to cool down, the different brands are selected; hence the name -of <i>rodeo</i>, from <i>rodear</i>, to surround.</p> - -<p>The object on this occasion was not only to separate all the calves that -required branding, but also to collect a large drove of oxen, so as to -furnish our extensive potreros of San Pablo de Paya with marketable -beeves.</p> - -<p>Our first foray against the horned tenants of the wilderness would thus -assume an importance seldom witnessed in that retired corner of the -republic; as also in addition to our own force, we counted upon the -assistance of the vaqueros from the neighboring cattle farms of -Caucagua, La Yagua, and others bordering these savannas. Due notice was -accordingly sent to the respective owners of those estates to muster on -a certain day all their forces upon the field.</p> - -<p>The area selected for the hunt embraced at least fifteen miles <i>à la -ronde</i>. The hunters, in squads of six or eight, proceeded on the -afternoon of the day before the hunt to their stations at various points -of the savanna, having instructions to start at early dawn for the -appointed centre. We of the staff made a simultaneous move from the -house, driving before us, without distinction, all the animals we -encountered on the route. The cattle being so unexpectedly roused from -their slumbers, naturally endeavored to fly from their pursuers. Soon, -however, meeting those from opposite directions, they whirled in mad -despair, vainly endeavoring to break through the extended<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> line of -horsemen, who were constantly galloping about the struggling mass with -shouts and thrusts from their steel-pointed <i>garrochas</i>.</p> - -<p>At the commencement it was a truly interesting sight to watch the many -groups of cattle, deer, wild boars, dogs, foxes, and other wild -quadrupeds coming in from all directions as if impelled by one common -instinct; but no sooner did that living ring commence closing upon them, -than, scared by the confusion and uproar of the scene, their terror -quickly grew to frenzy, and they ran from side to side bellowing, -grunting, howling as they went. Solely intent upon the danger that -menaced them, the mother forgot her offspring, and listened no more to -their painful lamentations; the lover abandoned his beloved, seeking -only his own safety in disgraceful flight; and even the fierce bull, -forgetting for a moment that he is sovereign of those realms, lost his -natural spirit of brave defiance, and rushed blindly off in the train of -the frightened multitude. As if to increase the grandeur of the -spectacle, a <i>garzero</i>, which had established itself on the borders of a -creek hard by, also caught the alarm, and at our approach flew up in the -air with a tremendous crashing of wing and bill, leaving their young to -care for themselves, and with their discordant and piercing cries to -swell the uproar of the scene. It is impossible to convey an adequate -idea of this vast multitude of frightened cranes and herons of all sorts -which fluttered overhead at that moment; so great was their number that -they spread over an extent of several miles, and actually for a time -cast a deep shadow over the landscape.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span></p> - -<p>Not less than eight or ten thousand head of cattle were brought within -the ring formed of more than a hundred horsemen, who, in preventing the -escape of the animals, were compelled to expose themselves and their -noble steeds to the vindictiveness of the bulls, which were constantly -rushing upon the lines in their endeavors to regain the open prairie. -Whenever this was attempted, a horseman galloped boldly upon the -fugitive, and by interposing himself between the open field and the -bull, forced the latter back to the herd. Wonderfully adroit were the -herdsmen in their avoidance of the repeated strokes aimed at them by the -bulls, even when it appeared impossible to escape being caught between -the animal’s horns. The <i>garrocha</i> played an important part in repelling -these attacks. This instrument, only second in importance to the lazo -when in the hands of expert riders, is made of the slender, yet tough -stem, of the <i>alvarico</i> palm, (ænocarpus cubarro,) by merely sharpening -the top end to a point, or surmounting it with an iron head, around -which a number of loose rings of the same metal are affixed; these, when -shaken close to the animal’s ear, frighten him off with the rattling -sound they produce. The shaft of the goad is fully ten feet long, and -although not thicker than a walking-stick, can bear an immense amount of -pressure without breaking. As a weapon of aggression, this slender palm -stem has become justly celebrated throughout the country, from the fact -of having supplied the primitive bands of patriots who first dared to -oppose the tyrannical rule of Spain with ready-made lances in the -wilderness. The manner in which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span> Llaneros make use of the garrocha is -quite extraordinary. When in pursuit of a bull which they purpose -turning back to the <i>rodeo</i>, if the animal be swifter than the horse, -the rider always manages to reach him with the point of his spear. This -he thrusts into the bull’s hide, just above the shoulder-blade, and then -leans forward and rests the whole weight of his body upon the shaft, -assisted in it by his intelligent charger. The equilibrium of the bull -is thus usually destroyed, and he rolls headlong upon the ground. These -falls are often sufficient to prevent further attempts at escape, in -which case the bull is easily led into the <i>rodeo</i>. This performance, -however, is one of the most dangerous practised among Llaneros, and is -undertaken only by the most skilful and experienced riders, as, should -the spear glance off while the hunter is leaning upon it, or should he -happen to overturn the bull in front of his horse, he will in either -case receive a terrific fall, and in the latter event, probably come -into collision with the fallen animal.</p> - -<p>From the midst, and above all the heads of that tumultuous assemblage of -wild animals, rose the shaggy frontlet of a black bull, whose martial -air and fearless step seemed to proclaim him the patriarch of the herd. -An experienced Llanero, intently watching all his movements from afar, -observed to those near him, that they would soon have fresh sport; and -that “if any one prized the skin of his horse, he would do well to look -to his spurs;” meaning that the black bull evidently intended mischief. -Mr. Thomas, who was busily sketching the novel scene before him, -unaccustomed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> to the jargon of the Llanos, did not understand this -remark, and therefore quietly continued his occupation. The next moment -the bull was in our midst, charging first upon Captain Valor, one of the -best riders on the field, who, in spite of his name, hastily spurred his -steed out of reach; but the bull still pursuing, charged again and again -upon him, and doubtless the last attempt would have been fatal to either -horse or cavalier, had not the bull been checked in his final onset by -accidentally plunging one of his legs into the hole of an armadillo, -which fortunate circumstance gave the captain time to distance his -pursuer. The bull next sought to vent his rage on the incautious artist, -who, one leg crossed over the neck of his horse as support for his -sketch-book, sat evidently absorbed in contemplation of the powerful and -daring brute, with whose ferocious nature he was totally unacquainted. -Having never before attended sports of the kind, my friend paid little -regard to the menacing attitude of the animal, who rushed upon him with -a fearful bellow that made us tremble for his fate. But for some -unaccountable reason, the bull after one or two ineffectual attempts to -strike his intended victim, wheeled about and disappeared among the -tangled jungle bordering the creek, apparently indignant at the -nonchalance with which John Bull received the advances of his namesake. -Fearing the recurrence of similar attacks, which might have a less -fortunate termination, it was decided to disembarrass ourselves of so -uncomfortable a neighbor; with this object, the requisite number of -horsemen provided with lazos were sent to capture<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> and subdue him. -Instead of seeking safety in precipitate flight, as is generally the -case with wild bulls, this one unflinchingly stood his ground, and -neither shouts nor menaces could induce him to abandon the threatening -attitude he had assumed. It was indeed a splendid sight to behold that -proud monarch of the horned tribe bidding defiance to all about him, his -huge and shaggy head, surmounted by a pair of pointed, powerful horns, -high in air, and with an expression of countenance that was almost -diabolical. His savage upper lip looked as if curled in contempt of his -antagonists, and his eyes gleamed with fury in the light of the morning -sun. Occasionally with his fore feet he ploughed up the earth, which, -falling in showers upon him, he swept from his sides with his tail, -uttering all the while a sort of suppressed roar resembling distant -thunder. Then came the furious charge, when every one was compelled to -run for his life, as nothing could arrest his headlong course. Blinded -with rage, he spared not even those of his own species, killing two -heifers instantly, and wounding a bull so severely that he died shortly -afterward. Each time the men whirled the lazo to throw it over his head, -he dashed forward with such rapidity as to disconcert their aim, until, -finally, a bold and agile sambo, Sarmiento by name, who acted as -caporal, and of whom we shall say more hereafter, dismounting from his -horse and seizing the red blanket from his saddle, prepared to face the -bull without the encumbrance of the lazo. His intention was to bewilder -or <i>torear</i> him by a succession of such feats of agility as are usually -practised by matadors in bull<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span> fights; and so successful was he, that in -one of the animal’s furious charges, he succeeded in grasping and -holding his tail; and in spite of the efforts the bull made to strike -him with his horns, Sarmiento followed his movements so closely, that by -a dexterous twist of the tail he succeeded in overthrowing the brute -upon his side; he then drew the tail between the hind legs, and as this -completely deprives the animal of all power of rising, he was enabled to -hold him until others came to his assistance. Then, to prevent further -mischief, the men proceeded to saw off the tops of his horns and to -perform upon him other usual operations. These precautions, however, -proved quite unnecessary, as the bull, exhausted by rage and loss of -blood, shortly afterward dropped upon the ground and expired.</p> - -<p>In spite of the vigilance and constant efforts of the men to keep the -animals within the <i>rodeo</i>, several other bulls managed to break through -the ranks. The only method of bringing them back was by using the -all-potent lazo, and two men, one of them thus equipped, were despatched -after the fugitive, which on being noosed, was by the second man -speedily thrown upon his side by means of that dangerous appendage, the -tail, in the management of which the Llaneros of Venezuela are so -famous. This accomplished, they pierced the thick cartilage which -divides the nostrils with the point of a dagger; one end of the thong -was then passed through the wound, while the other remained fastened to -the horse’s tail; the Llanero, then mounting his steed, jerked the end -attached to the bull, which brought the prostrate beast<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span> at once to his -feet, when he was marched off to his destination without further -trouble, literally led by the nose.</p> - -<p>Another method of arresting a bull in his flight, is by a bold -manœuvre termed <i>colear</i>, and which consists, as already stated, in -availing themselves of the animal’s tail to overthrow him when at full -speed; but that is not easy of accomplishment, as the bull has then such -entire freedom of movement. The horse also must be perfectly well -trained to these hazardous undertakings, and should obey instantly the -slightest pull of the bit; for if the bull turns suddenly upon his -pursuer, the chances are ten to one that the horse will be severely -wounded. The rider first gallops close to the rear of the bull, and -seizing his tail with one hand, gives it a turn or two around his wrist -to prevent its slipping. When thus prepared, he urges his horse forward, -until the heads of the two animals are on a “dead-heat;” then quickly -turning in an oblique direction, and exerting all his strength, he pulls -the bull toward him, and does not relinquish his hold until he perceives -that the enemy is tottering, when he is easily overthrown from the great -impetus imparted by their rapid pace. Some men are so dexterous that -they can colear with both hands at the same time; which necessarily -gives greater power over the bull, enabling the rider to bring him down -much more readily. The horse, in this case, left to his own well-taught -guidance, assists the manœuvres of his rider, pushing forward at the -instant he perceives that his master is prepared for the pull, and -turning about also at the right moment. How wonderful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> the instinct of -these noble creatures! that teaches them so readily the importance of -the slightest movement, on which often depends, not only the success of -the enterprise, but their own safety, as well as that of their masters. -If too powerful resistance is offered at the outset by the bull, as is -sometimes the case, the rider still clings to the tail of his adversary, -and throwing himself off his horse while at full speed, the impetus -combined with his weight and strength never fail in bringing the bull -like a fallen giant to the ground; then the man quickly drawing the tail -between the hind legs, awaits the arrival of his companions to assist in -securing the prize.</p> - -<p>It was often matter of surprise to me in what manner the Llaneros, -notwithstanding the thorough training of the horses, contrived their -speedy approach to the rear of the bulls, as these were usually -considerably ahead at the start. On one occasion, I was regretting that -my pony was too small to keep pace with the hunters, when one of the -men, who was mounted on a prototype of Rosinante—on which, -nevertheless, he had performed prodigies of strength—turned to me and -said, “<i>Vaya, niño</i>, let me show you that this is not the fault of the -horse, but that of the rider;” whereupon we exchanged horses, and off he -went after a powerful bull just escaped. Not many minutes elapsed before -I lost sight of horse and rider in a cloud of dust raised by the beast -in its fall.</p> - -<p>Some hours elapsed before the tremendous excitement and confusion of the -wild melée described above had sufficiently subsided to render the forms -of men<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span> and cattle visible through the clouds of dust and ashes raised -by the trampling of so many animals. The grass, at this period parched -by the sun and reduced to ashes in various places by the usual -conflagrations, mingled with the dust and rose in dense columns, which -from afar might have been mistaken for the dreaded monsoon.</p> - -<p>In the mean while the distracted mothers ran from side to side, lowing -piteously for their missing young. Here and there fierce duellos among -rival bulls took place for the possession of some shaggy one of the -softer sex. Butting their huge fronts together, and goring each other -with their sharp-pointed horns, they fought with the courage and skill -of accomplished gladiators, tearing up the earth in wild fury, and -filling the air with their deep, savage bellowings. A crowd of admirers -from amidst the herd formed a circle around the combatants, and if any -from among their number evinced the least disposition to interfere, he -was immediately chased away by the others, so that there might be fair -play while the fight lasted. Often these encounters proved fatal to one -of the belligerents, as neither will yield the palm without a desperate -resistance.</p> - -<p>The bellowing of thousands of animals, with the yells and deafening -shouts of the men galloping about the plain, waving their ponchos and -rattling their <i>garrochas</i>, combined to give the scene more the -appearance of a fiendish melodrama, than a purely pastoral assemblage of -men and cattle.</p> - -<p>The confusion having at length subsided, four of the ablest horsemen, -penetrating the living mass,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> which, as they advanced, surged on either -side like the waves of the sea, commenced the difficult task of -separating the animals intended for the brand, and those belonging to -our neighbors. This occasioned another series of evolutions, which only -men trained to such exercises could have accomplished successfully.</p> - -<p>It is usual in all cattle-farms to cut a notch or two in the animal’s -ear at the time they are branded, for the purpose of recognizing them -more readily from a distance, a precaution which is particularly -serviceable on occasions like that just described, it being impossible -to read the brand when the creatures are crowded into a herd. Although -most of the calves had not the notch, they belong by right to the owner -of the mother, even if they are found on the lands of another party. Of -it the vaqueros availed themselves in their subsequent apportioning of -the different lots of cattle. This they accomplished in the most -expeditious manner by riding boldly at the animals in question, -hastening or checking their progress through the herd as the case -required. Thus by repeated evolutions of the sort, they finally brought -the animals to the edge of the ring, where an opening was purposely left -for their escape, and then the nearest horseman drove them in among a -small body of tame cattle stationed a short distance from the <i>rodeo</i>. -These violent manœuvrings could not be accomplished, however, without -endangering at every step the security of the entire herd. Each time the -drivers turned out an animal the whole mass was thrown into the utmost -confusion, and it required the most consummate skill<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span> on the part of the -men to prevent the entire dispersion of the cattle. The fearlessness -with which the drivers plunged into that labyrinth of savage, panting -brutes, advancing close upon the wall of bristling horns which barred -their progress, and boldly driving the infuriated creatures before them -like a pack of sheep, was truly worthy of admiration. The readiness with -which they detected at a distance the mark on the animal’s ears was also -no less noticeable, singling out such at a glance, and immediately -driving them away to their respective groups. When all the brands had -thus been apportioned, each owner proceeded to drive away his own herd. -We found in these cases—as indeed in all similar ones—the assistance -of <i>madrineros</i> or trained oxen, of great service in driving a large -body of cattle across the plains. A dozen of these oxen were sufficient -to lead a vast drove, stopping or advancing at a signal from the -overseer, while the vaqueros kept close watch on rear and flank to -prevent escape and to urge on the cattle, especially the crowd of stray -calves—some of them only a few hours old—which, like a procession of -lost children, kept up a continual bewailing for their mothers as if the -last ray of hope had departed from them. Although their case was indeed -a hard one, and the task of driving them over the rough ground still -harder, we were unwilling to leave them behind, hoping to find their -mammas among the multitude before us. When within a short distance from -the house, we halted to make preparations for the enclosure of the -herds. But one of the most dangerous parts of the proceedings yet -remained, that of forcing the cattle into the corrals.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span></p> - -<p>The entrance to the <i>majada</i>—shaped like a great funnel—was, like the -rest of the fences, made of very strong posts, driven into the ground -and barred across at intervals with thick rafters of bamboo. Through -this funnel, or <i>manga</i>, the cattle in small lots were driven at full -speed headed by the <i>madrineros</i>—those treacherous guides trained to -ensnare their kindred—while the horsemen barricaded the mouth of the -funnel with the breasts of the poor horses. Every thing proceeded -satisfactorily as far as the end of the funnel, the <i>madrineros</i>, with -all the cunning of semi-civilized brutes, redoubling their pace at the -moment of entering the great enclosure. Then their wild brethren, -perceiving the treachery, turned upon their captors, and a most fearful -struggle ensued. The bulls, in spite of the deafening shouts of the men, -and the formidable array of <i>garrochas</i> levelled at their heads, -endeavored to force their way back to the open plain, and many of them -actually succeeded in breaking through the barricade of horses. Thus -many noble steeds, which until then had escaped unhurt, met with an -inglorious death. That most of the men escaped unhurt, appeared little -less than miraculous, as not only were they also exposed at every moment -to the vindictive attacks of the bulls, but it often happened that some -of them were unhorsed, when they were in imminent danger of being -trampled by the retreating foe. The superior skill and intrepidity of -man, however, triumphed at length over mere brute resistance, and the -whole herd was in a short time securely quartered in the <i>majada</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">BRANDING SCENES.</span></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Entre tanto en ancha hoguera<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Como encendido tizon,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Ya la marca centellea<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Con chispas de azul punzó.”<br /></span> -<span class="i8"><span class="smcap">Ventura de la Vega.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was late in the evening when we partook of our only meal that day, -and we afterward retired to rest, but not to sleep, owing to the -incessant noise made by the cattle in the corrals, who, during the whole -night, were rushing to and fro as if goaded by demons. Sometimes we -feared that the fences would give way before their mad onset, while the -dust rose in suffocating clouds, filling the atmosphere and mingling -with our food, which was thus rendered almost unfit for use. The -bellowing, roaring, and moaning of the herd could only be likened to the -wild confusion of a battle-field. Many of the savage bulls in their fury -turned their horns, sharp as bayonets, against their own kindred. The -proud padrote, his dusky mate, and the tender heifer shared alike in the -slaughter. The next day numbers lay gored to death in the dust<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> of the -corrals, while others presented ghastly wounds. Soon the carcasses began -to putrefy, which, added to the particles of dust floating through the -air we breathed, rendered the atmosphere intolerable. Many more of the -cattle died of suffocation, and others from an infectious disease -induced by the crowded state of the herd and the noxious exhalations -from the carcasses. We therefore lost no time in branding them that they -might be set free, lest the infection should extend to the whole herd.</p> - -<p>Animals affected in this manner exhibit no symptoms of the disease until -immediately prior to their demise, when they are observed to stagger a -few paces and drop suddenly, as if shot by a rifle ball; and yet the -vultures seem to possess an intuitive knowledge of this approaching -dissolution, in proof whereof, numbers of these feathery satellites of -death can be seen hovering around an animal which the scourge has -doomed, although it is apparently still in perfect health. The -infection, fortunately, is confined to the horned cattle, no instance of -its transmission to other creatures occurring, except in the case of men -venturing to skin the carcasses, when it assumes a different form. -Persons who have thus exposed themselves are seized with a horrible -swelling of the neck, commencing with a pimple not larger than a pin’s -head, and gradually increasing in size until it extends to the -cerebellum. Death is the inevitable result if the patient is not -promptly attended by a skilful physician. There were two or three cases -of the kind among our own people, but by careful treatment we were -fortunate enough to save them. There are, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span> every year many poor -fellows in that improvident region, who, not having the same advantages, -are often carried away by the distemper.</p> - -<p>The branding of cattle, as conducted in extensive establishments, is a -real festival for the sport-loving people of the Llanos; and each one -feels himself as deeply interested therein as though assisting at a -grand bull fight—the time-honored amusement of the descendants of -Pelayo, the Cid, and other worthies of like celebrity; and indeed the -former, or <i>hierra</i>, as that wild pageant is termed, with all its -incidents and dangers, all its noise and bustle, is perhaps the grandest -spectacle of the kind that could be devised for the entertainment and -training of that chivalric race. It is undoubtedly one of the wildest -scenes ever beheld in the pampas, and one which afforded me exceeding -pleasure from the variety of incident accompanying it. The majada is, in -fact, the school in which from infancy the Llanero is trained to conquer -or to die in daily struggles with the brute creation. It is a veritable -Olympic Circus, where the agility and strength for which he is famed are -displayed during the exciting operations performed upon the savage -denizens of the savannas, branding and marking the calves, sawing off -the horns of furious bulls and converting them into oxen for the -improvement of their flesh and disposition.</p> - -<p>On the day appointed, all animals confined in the <i>majada</i> are driven -into the <i>corralejas</i> or smaller corrals adjoining the great enclosure, -and there packed as closely as possible to prevent the bulls, always -ready to strike, from doing much mischief among<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> their own kindred. -Meantime the men prepare their lazos and station themselves according to -their respective strength and ability, while the boys kindle a blazing -fire in a safe corner of the <i>majada</i>, in which the various brands to be -used are kept at a red heat. These brands generally represent the -initials of the owner, or some sort of hieroglyphic stamp affixed to the -end of a long handle. A record of these is kept by the Justice of the -Peace in each district; and it is considered a great crime to alter or -in any unauthorized manner efface their impression from the skin of -animals. The cattle are usually branded on the haunches; but whenever a -horse, mule, or mare is sold, the brand in a reversed position is again -affixed, this time on its shoulder, followed by the buyer’s brand, the -same operation being repeated whenever the animal changes hands, so that -some poor beasts come at last to be quite disfigured with deep scars.</p> - -<p>When all is ready for the fray, the majordomo, climbing to the highest -post of the enclosure, from whence he directs operations, gives the -signal. Here he keeps an account of the calves branded, by notching a -long strip of raw hide. A number of these strips, called <i>tarja</i> or -tally, are carefully preserved in every cattle farm as a record to be -laid before the owner at the year’s end in lieu of balance-sheet.</p> - -<p>The principal business of the day being that of branding the calves -collected at the <i>rodeo</i>, two or three men armed with lazos, fearlessly -enter the pens at peril of life and limb—for the mothers are ever ready -to defend their young—and proceed to drag the calves out singly by -means of the lazo,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span> though not without many obstinate struggles on their -part, and the more formidable resistance of their parents, which are -kept back at the point of the <i>garrocha</i> by men stationed on the fences. -The contest, however, is not of very long duration; the calf nearly -choked by the lazo, and tormented by a cruel twisting of his tail, -springs forward toward the branding place. The moment he passes the -threshold, one or two little imps pounce upon the tail, jerking it until -they succeed in throwing him down; the lazo is then quickly removed, and -the captor hurries back to the pen for another calf. When a number have -been thus secured, a man goes round with the brand, and in a very short -time the whole lot are stamped with the burning seal of the estate -amidst the piteous bellowings and ineffectual kicks of the helpless -creatures.</p> - -<p>These operations, although performed on young animals, are not so easily -accomplished as might be supposed; it being not unusual for full-grown -ones to spring over the fences, or force their way through the narrow -gate of their pen. At such times, the operators outside are in imminent -danger of being assailed by the fugitives, if the latter are not -promptly secured by men stationed for the purpose at the gate of the -<i>corralejas</i>. It becomes a much more serious business when a powerful -bull is lazoed. He not only refuses obstinately to be dragged out like a -calf, but requires the combined force and skill of all the men to compel -him from the pen, although the gate is purposely left wide open. In such -cases a picador, climbing to the top of the fence, endeavors to drive<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> -out the animal by repeated thrusts of the goad; that also failing, -another lets himself down close to the bull’s tail, which he twists -violently, and this seldom fails to drive the refractory creature madly -out, followed by the shouts and huzzas of his cruel tormentors. The next -proceeding is to throw him for the purpose of regaining the lazo, and -for the performance of the above-mentioned operations. This, however, is -no easy matter, from the frantic plunges of the bull, who has the entire -range of the lazo. The only certain method is that of dragging him close -upon a post—<i>botalon</i>—driven into the ground, where his overthrow is -finally accomplished by the united efforts of several men, one grappling -his hind legs, another seizing the tail, while two others keep a steady -hold of the thong, until the animal, at last exhausted, drops heavily to -the ground.</p> - -<p>To justly appreciate scenes like these, one must himself behold the -dusky athlete battling single-handed with a bull just escaping from the -corral. Seizing him by a horn with one hand, the Llanero still holding -it watches his opportunity until he can grasp with the other the -animal’s tail. The bull is then allowed to run as fast as he will, as -the greater his speed the more easily his downfall is accomplished. If -the bull moves too slowly, a few impressive jerks generally accelerate -his speed; but occasionally he returns the compliment by turning -fiercely upon his tail-bearer, who, if not very nimble, risks being -gored to death; yet his skilful antagonist, not only usually succeeds in -evading his attack, but speedily contrives to throw him. No sooner does -this occur, than the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> vanquished one is surrounded by a host of merry -yelling vagabonds, one brandishing a huge knife, which he sharpens on -the horns previous to performing the operation which transforms the -animal into an ox, and if not previously marked, cuts his ear according -to the rule of the estate whose property he is; another holds a red-hot -brand, which he implants at once upon the quivering hide; while a third -with a small hand-saw cuts off the sharp points of the horns. The whole -operation scarcely occupies three minutes’ time; but notwithstanding -this, the danger is very great if the bull succeed in regaining his feet -before it is finished, as, instead of being subdued, no sooner is he -free, than he turns upon his assailants in renewed fury, and then those -valiant heroes may be seen scattering about the arena like a flock of -partridges. With nostrils widely distended, and foaming at the mouth, -the bull for an instant stands an embodiment of rage and terror, -endeavoring to discover the objects of his vengeance. None, however, are -presumptuous enough to await his onset; they would be levelled with the -dust in an instant, and his conquerors therefore adopt the wiser policy -of a speedy retreat to the highest fence, whence they pour a volley of -abuse upon his shaggy head.</p> - -<p>Occasionally, while the men were engaged with one bull, several others -effected their escape in spite of the men whose business it was to -prevent it. The situation of the others then became critical in the -extreme, being exposed to the attacks of the fugitives on the one hand, -and to those of the prisoner on the other; this last they were often -compelled to abandon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span> in the midst of their labors. Those who held -younger animals formed with their bodies a sort of barricade with which -to fend off the aggressor, when no other expedient could be resorted to. -At times it appeared almost impossible to escape the impetuous charge of -the bulls, especially when the men were some distance from the fences; -the only remaining means of safety then consisted in throwing themselves -flat upon the ground at the moment the bull aimed a stroke, as in that -case the animal invariably jumped over their bodies. It is asserted that -bulls in charging always close their eyes, thus missing in blind -precipitancy many excellent opportunities for avenging the outrages -perpetrated on their race. Not so the cows, who are said to keep their -eyes fully open when they are bent on mischief, seldom if ever turning -from their intended victim without leaving some mark, of either horn or -hoof, in token of displeasure.</p> - -<p>On one occasion our leader himself very narrowly escaped from one of -these infuriate feminalities in spite of his ability in dealing with -wild cattle, and his dexterity in avoiding their attacks. We had just -entered the <i>majada</i>, and were making preparations for the coming -frolic. We stood under the shade of a splendid <i>matapalo</i> or wild -fig-tree growing within the great enclosure, when a cow, which had left -her young behind while chased in the savanna, feeling rather uneasy in -consequence, cleared the fence of the pen wherein she was confined, and -the next moment was among us. All retreated to the fences, excepting our -leader, who, ever rather sensitive about turning his back upon an enemy, -stood his ground somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> protected by the stout body of the tree. The -cow at first appeared to pay but little attention to him, making -straight for the gate of the <i>majada</i>, which she, unfortunately, found -strongly barred against her escape. Then retracing her steps, she sought -to avenge her evident disappointment upon the gentleman in white, whom -she very well recollected having left at the foot of the old <i>matapalo</i>. -Still the undaunted soldier, although repeatedly urged by his men to -fly, scorned the idea of seeking the <i>talanquera</i>, or, in other words, -climbing the fence in a hurry, thinking at first to avoid the enemy by -stepping round and round the tree; but the cow was too cunning to be -cheated in this manner. After thus chasing him in vain for a few -minutes, she suddenly changed her course, seeking him in the opposite -direction, which brought them face to face. Unfortunately, the General, -who had that morning been sitting for his likeness in the full costume -of the Llanos which he still wore, found himself rather embarrassed in -his movements by the wide folds of the <i>manta</i>. This prevented him from -drawing the sword he had retained, which was his first impulse; and he -therefore retreated a few paces into a more open space where he could -<i>torear</i> her until others came to his assistance. With the subtlety of -her sex the cow at once perceived his intentions, and rapidly following -his every movement, watched her opportunity to strike him on the side; -but he, precisely at the right instant, with great presence of mind -threw himself flat upon the ground just as she aimed the blow. Instead, -however, of jumping over him, as is usual with bulls in similar cases, -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> cow rushed upon him, when his adroitness in grasping one of her -fore feet so firmly as to arrest further attack until others came to his -relief, prevented any injury beyond a slight scratch on his side and -tearing his <i>manta</i>.</p> - -<p>It is needless to add that after so disrespectful an assault upon the -revered person of our leader, the cow received no gentle treatment at -the hands of the indignant <i>vaqueros</i>: some were for despatching her at -once for their evening meal; others, for affixing a dry hide to the end -of her tail and letting her loose over the plain; while a few, -compassionating her ignorance, among them the aggrieved owner, were only -for depriving her of the means of doing further mischief with the horns. -This opinion prevailing at last over all others, the ruthless hand of -the executioner at once applied the saw to the pride of her head, after -which she was allowed to depart in peace. Thus ended a short, but not -altogether inglorious struggle, which, but for the cunning and address -displayed on both sides, might have terminated fatally to either of the -parties engaged in it.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>After the <i>corralejas</i> had been emptied of their contents, there still -remained in the <i>majada</i> several bulls at large, which had escaped -during the confusion; and many of these not yet having been operated -upon, another most exciting chase was afforded to the indefatigable and -athletic hunters. The narrowness of the field, however, which precluded -the use of horses, and the fact that each bull required to be captured -with the lazo, occasioned serious obstacles<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> and much risk to the men -engaged therein. Lack of volunteers there was none, and among them a -powerful red-haired zambo, which freak of nature had obtained for him -the sobriquet of <i>colorado</i>—the red man.</p> - -<p>This fellow enjoyed a wide reputation in the country for his exploits, -both in field and corral, and on this occasion proved himself deserving -of the fame which he had heretofore achieved. It was he who now first -led the charge. Seizing a lazo of long dimensions, contrary to usual -practice, he proceeded to coil it on his right hand, securing the end -upon his left. Then, cautiously approaching a formidable black bull, -which stood alone in the centre of the <i>majada</i>, he sent the whole lazo, -noose and all, uncoiling like a snake through the air until it reached -the animal’s head. Although the distance must have been thirty paces, we -had the satisfaction of seeing the noose settle round his neck as truly -as if placed there by the practised hand of a hangman. From this moment, -Colorado was unanimously proclaimed master of the lazo, an honor which -he enjoyed to the end of the performances, as all that remained in this -case to be accomplished by the others was merely to pull the lazo in -order to bring the bull up to the botalon or upright post, which served -the double purpose of subduing stake for the bulls, and training post -for the boys. To it one or more young bulls were usually brought at the -end of the day’s work, and the boys compelled to mount them in the -manner described in a previous chapter; the animals are then set loose -amidst the crowd of assembled quadrupeds, which are evidently amazed at -the singular spectacle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_15" id="ill_15"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b200_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b200_sml.jpg" width="270" height="124" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>We witnessed several exhibitions of the kind in the <i>majada</i>, whenever -we were present at the branding of the cattle; but never do I recollect -any serious accident occurring to the little riders. Thus it is that the -Llaneros educate their boys from infancy to the severest exercises of -their profession, so that they in turn may teach the same to their own -children.</p> - -<p>Not always, however, is the Llanero’s triumph over the brute creation -obtained so easily, for many are the instances in which the latter gain -the advantage in these hand-to-horn combats, and in such cases the evil -resulting is very great. Sometimes the men are dreadfully lacerated, -either by the horns or the sharp hoofs of their antagonists, frequently -losing their lives in consequence, from want of proper medical treatment -at the time the wounds are inflicted. The most common phase the disease -assumes is that of tetanus or lock-jaw, which sometimes ensues from only -a slight scratch on the tendinous part of the foot. From the scarcity of -surgeons in the country, and the lack of skill in dressing these wounds, -mortification, aneurisms, malignant abscesses, and a variety of other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> -complaints are amongst the evils resulting from this otherwise -entertaining sport. In spite of all our precautions, and the assistance -of the surgeon, Dr. Gallegos, we lost three of our best men, and several -others afterward died in consequence of injuries received during that -expedition.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">PLANTS AND SNAKES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> wide extent of the savannas composing this cattle farm, and the -dispersion of the herds throughout them, compelled us to remove our -quarters to a more central point, from whence we could sally forth in -their pursuit. Orders were issued accordingly for the men to be in -readiness, and the next morning we quitted with regret our comfortable -quarters at the majordomo’s mansion and started for Mata-Gorda, one of -those delightful primeval groves which dot the prairies here and there.</p> - -<p>Some idea of the extent of this huge farm may be gathered from the fact -that one may start at a gallop early in the morning from one end of the -savannas and not reach the other until late at night of the same day. -Its area would measure at least eighty square leagues, or about one -hundred and fifty thousand acres of the richest land, but which under -the present backward and revolutionary state of the country is -comparatively valueless to its owner. The number of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span> cattle dispersed -throughout the length and breadth of this wide extent of prairie land -was computed to be about a hundred thousand heads, and, at one time, ten -thousand horses; but what with the <i>peste</i>, revolutionary exactions, and -skin hunters, comparatively very few of the former and none of the -latter have been left.</p> - -<p>Our first occupation on arriving at the Mata was to set up a hasty ranch -for the protection of our accoutrements and baggage, a structure which -required little labor or expense, the graceful palms affording the best -kind of thatch for the roof, and the surrounding woods sufficient posts -and rafters for the framework. A convenient apartment was provided in it -for the hammocks of our Leader and worthy Surgeon, while the rest of us -were compelled to seek accommodations among the trunks and branches of -the trees.</p> - -<p>These arrangements completed, the necessary timber was next cut for the -corrals to be erected for enclosing the coming herds, a work to which -the hunters devoted themselves, while I found greater attractions in my -daily explorations through the tangled forest. The beautiful palms there -claimed my most particular attention. Apart from the splendor of their -growth and other peculiarities to which I have already alluded in a -former chapter, they are sufficient in themselves to supply many of the -domestic and economic wants of man in a primitive state.</p> - -<p>I also observed here many useful species of the extensive family of -leguminous plants, such as the <i>cañafistula</i>, (Cathartocarpus,) of which -there were several varieties, all of them beautiful timber trees,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span> whose -pods, two feet long, were filled with a black gummy substance possessing -very medicinal properties. In a natural form it affords one of the -mildest and most agreeable cathartics. Belonging to the same family, the -<i>caro</i>, <i>masaguaro</i>, and <i>saman</i> acacias can scarcely be rivalled in -durability by any other production of the vegetable world. Their pods -also contain a large proportion of a similar gummy substance which -cattle devour greedily, and which fattens them better than any other -kind of fodder.</p> - -<p>The <i>malagueta</i> pepper, or donkey-bean, (<i>Uvaria febrifuga</i>,) an -excellent febrifuge and antispasmodic, also grows here in the greatest -abundance. Its aromatic seeds are carefully preserved in the tobacco -bladder of every Llanero, along with the tubers of the snake root, -(<i>Aristolochia bulbosa</i>,) a plant possessing the same virtues, and -withal the best antidote against the bite of serpents.</p> - -<p>Several other medicinal plants, such as the stately <i>mora</i>, the wild -sour-sop, and the <i>mapurite</i>, are also met with here; the last owes its -name to the peculiar odor, not unlike that of the skunk, which pervades -the whole plant, rendering it any thing but acceptable in the -neighborhood of an encampment.</p> - -<p>Of wild fruits there was also a fine array, and among them the most -delicious of all, in my opinion, is the <i>manirito</i>, (Anona muricata,) a -fruit scarcely known to horticulture, and still less to the listless -inhabitant of the country where it grows in wild luxuriance; as no one -there has yet thought of bringing it under cultivation. This plant, -which belongs to the same family as do several of the most celebrated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> -fruit trees of the tropics—the various kinds of custard apples and the -delicious cherimoyer—attains a height of ten feet, and at the season of -maturity, actually bends to the ground beneath its sweet load. -Unfortunately it all ripens at once, so that in a few days the whole -crop disappears. This fruit, like its congener the sour-sop, is covered -with soft prickles. The inside, a sweet and highly aromatic pulp, is -filled with small seeds, which, when the fruit is eaten in large -quantities, as is generally the case, are apt to produce dangerous -strictures. The whole plant is exceedingly fragrant; and by rubbing the -leaves between the hands, they emit a delightful aroma, not unlike that -of new mown hay.</p> - -<p>Another pleasant fruit, that I here met also for the first time, was the -wild <i>madroña</i> of the size of a lemon, which it also resembles in shape -and color. It is filled with a most agreeable sub-acid pulp; this -envelops three or four large nuts, not unlike cacao-beans, and tastes -very much like strawberries. The tree producing this delicious fruit -attains a height of twenty feet. The foliage is very dense, with -coriaceous leaves ten inches long, of a brilliant green. A thick yellow -resin, resembling gamboge, exudes from every part of the tree when -wounded; but whether it has been found useful for any particular -purpose, I was unable to ascertain.</p> - -<p>Somewhat similar to the latter, although growing upon a plant of an -entirely different nature, is the <i>cacaita</i>, or monkey cacao-bean, a -soft and rather insipid fruit, the production of a vine, which monkeys -devour greedily.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span></p> - -<p>By far the largest proportion of the trees were several species of -<i>guamos</i> (Inga lucida) and others of the same order of leguminous -plants, bearing pods eight or ten inches long; these are filled with a -row of black beans, enveloped in a snowy white and sweetish pulp, most -agreeable to the taste. The ripening season of this mild and wholesome -fruit was just commencing, and every day we gathered and consumed -quantities of it.</p> - -<p>Another pod-bearing tree of great utility proper to that region is the -<i>algarrobo</i>, (Hymenea curbaril,) the locust tree of the New World, which -bears a thick ligneous pod containing several hard, brown, and rounded -beans. These are surrounded by a sweet farinaceous substance, possessing -great alimentary properties. A fragrant resin exudes from the pericarp -of the pods, which, on being burned, yields a perfume similar to the -odor of frankincense combined with that of balsam of Tolú.</p> - -<p>I had almost forgotten to mention, among the agreeable fruits of these -parts, several kinds of wild guavas, from the tiny Arrayan, scarcely -distinguishable among the tufts of grass by which it is surrounded, to -the beautiful <i>paujil</i> shrub, bearing in great profusion quantities of -brilliant scarlet, highly perfumed and acidulous fruits. The berry of -the former exactly resembles Jamaica allspice in shape; is quite sweet, -and possesses in a high degree the exquisite flavor and aroma of the -myrtle tribe, to which indeed all these plants belong.</p> - -<p>Great care was necessary in selecting spits for roasting the beef, on -account of a most poisonous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> shrub, the deadly <i>guachamacá</i>, abounding -there. It belongs to the extensive family of Apocineæ or Dogbanes, whose -poisonous qualities are known all over the world. So virulent is this -poison, that meat roasted on spits made from the guachamacá, absorbs -sufficient poison to destroy all who partake of it. The lazy Indians -make use of it to kill without trouble the cranes and herons on the -borders of lagoons. For this they procure a number of sardines, besmear -them with the juice of the plant, and spread them along the places -frequented by those birds. The moment one of them seizes the fish, and -before it is fairly swallowed, the bird drops dead; then the indolent -hunter, issuing from his hiding-place, cuts off the parts affected by -the poison, usually the head and neck, and feels no scruple in eating -the remainder.</p> - -<p>A dreadful case of poisoning by means of this plant had just occurred at -Nutrias, soon after our arrival on the Apure, which created for a time -great excitement even amidst that scattered population. A woman who -lived with a man in the vicinity of that town became jealous of the -attentions he bestowed upon a charming neighbor of theirs, and -determined to avenge herself, but in some manner that would not excite -suspicion. In those remote regions where coroners and chemists are -unknown, it is impossible to detect murder except where marks of -external violence are visible. Accordingly, she prepared for her lover a -bowl of <i>masato</i>, a favorite beverage of the country, made of Indian -corn boiled, mashed in water, and fermented; in this she soaked chips of -the poisonous plant and offered it to him with smiling grace.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> Delighted -at sight of the tempting bowl, the unsuspecting lover invited several of -his neighbors—among them the hated rival—to share it with him. The -woman, not intending to destroy any but her perfidious lover, during his -absence prepared another bowl, omitting this time the poison. Llanero -politeness obliged the host, however, to mix his portion with the -others, which having done, he invited the company to dip their calabash -cups into the bowl. Out of eleven persons there assembled, among them -several children, not one escaped except the wicked perpetrator of this -wholesale murder; nor even the donkeys and fowl of the household, as -their attentive master had thrown them the remains of the deadly -mixture.</p> - -<p>Such is the dread in which the Llaneros hold this plant, that I was not -even permitted to preserve the specimens of fruit and flowers I had -collected, with the object of ascertaining, on my return to the Valleys, -the botanical characters of the species. They almost threatened to -desert, if I insisted upon carrying the leaves among the baggage.</p> - -<p>The propagation of this plant throughout the Apure appears to be of -recent origin, none of the oldest inhabitants recollecting to have met -with it until within comparatively a short period.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The men had no small trouble in clearing our camp of many noxious -reptiles; and it became our regular afternoon business to hunt for -snakes. We succeeded in killing a great number in the vicinity of the -ranch, some very poisonous, while others were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> quite harmless; of the -latter class I found two species of coral snakes, against which an -unjust prejudice exists, that they are among the most poisonous. Of the -former, the <i>matacaballo</i> is the most to be feared. Although scarcely -larger than a good-sized earthworm, his bite is nevertheless almost -instantaneously fatal to man and beast. Unlike his other sluggish and -torpid congeners, this little snake is the more dangerous because always -on the alert. The tramp of a horse, especially, never fails in rousing -them, against which noble animal they evince an inveterate rancor. I was -once occupied in sketching one of these snakes, which I had permitted to -live for the purpose, and I observed that whenever a horse approached -us, the snake rapidly turned his head in the direction of the sound, -seeming as if anxious to strike the animal with his fangs; but as I had -fortunately taken the precaution of disabling him by partially breaking -his spine, he could make but little progress toward the object of his -dislike.</p> - -<p>The tendinous part between the hoof and ankle-joint of the horse being -nearest the ground, is consequently most exposed to the bite of the -<i>matacaballo</i>; and although the distance from the ankle to the heart is -very great, it not unfrequently happens that the animal drops as if -touched by the electric spark, from which fact I infer that this poison -acts on the nervous system as well as on the blood. Horned cattle and -pigs are fortunately shielded by the thickness of their skin from the -fangs of this destroyer, which cannot penetrate it. Hence this snake has -been termed, <i>par excellence</i>, matacaballo, literally horse-killer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_16" id="ill_16"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b210_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b210_sml.jpg" width="219" height="174" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>It was at one time extremely dangerous to drive horses across the banks -of these savannas where snakes are always most abundant; their numbers, -however, have been considerably diminished since the immense -multiplication of pigs in those regions.</p> - -<p>Horses have there also another dangerous enemy—a great hairy spider or -species of the tarantula; this inflicts a very poisonous and painful -sting just above the hoof, which in time drops off, although it is never -followed by death.</p> - -<p>But among all these evil creatures, there is none so disgusting or so -dangerous as the rattlesnake. The virulence of its poison, and the great -size attained by some, renders them the terror of every man and beast -where they abound. Fortunately for mankind, they have been provided by -an ever-watchful Providence with what is termed a rattle; this is -composed of a number of horny rings placed at the end of the tail,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span> -which, on being shaken, produce a peculiar sound, and serve as warning. -It is said that Nature every year adds one of these rings, thus marking -the age of the reptile. From its loathsome body is exhaled a strong -odor, somewhat resembling musk, in itself sufficient to warn the most -careless, as it is perceptible at the distance of a hundred feet. The -head is peculiarly flat and broad, and the eyes sparkle in the darkness -like specks of fire. The mouth is a ghastly aperture, whence issues a -black and forked tongue, which the reptile moves incessantly when -irritated. Two long fangs, curved inwardly, project in front of the -upper jaw, and through them the fatal venom is discharged. The poison is -secreted from two glands in the form of small bags at the root of the -fangs, admirably adapted for the purpose, being hollow inside throughout -their whole length, and by their pressure against the glands produced by -the act of biting, the liquid is ejected into the wound. Fortunately, -this snake is the slowest in its motions, and the most torpid of its -kind, otherwise the mischief done by them would be much greater, they -being very abundant also in the Llanos. Their favorite haunts are the -hollow trunks of decayed trees and deep fissures in the ground. -Occasionally they are found coiled among thick clumps of grass, which -shelter them from the glaring sun; but they are always ready to strike -any intruder. At night they issue forth in quest of game, returning -again to their hiding-places before sunrise.</p> - -<p>In addition to the foregoing, there are several other kinds in the -Apure; among the harmless ones<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> the <i>sabanera</i> is very abundant in the -savannas, from which it is named. Some of these are ten feet long and -occasionally even more. They glide over the ground with astonishing -rapidity, making all varieties of contortions with their bodies, the -forward part of which they keep all the while raised in a vertical -position. These snakes are very useful, as they destroy all the -poisonous kinds they encounter.</p> - -<p>The beautiful coral snake, with alternate rings of red, black, and -white, is occasionally seen in the vicinity of ant-holes. Most persons -attribute to it very poisonous qualities; but I have examined its mouth -carefully and found there no fangs, nor any of the characteristics of -poisonous snakes.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_17" id="ill_17"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b212_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b212_sml.jpg" width="222" height="275" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span></p> - -<p>In the same category is placed another inoffensive reptile, a cecilia, -emphatically styled <i>culebra de dos cabezas</i>, or two-headed snake—so -named on account of having both ends of its body of equal thickness, -while the eyes are almost invisible. It seems the connecting link -between snakes and earthworms, partaking of the nature of both, is about -a foot long, and rather disproportionately thick for its length, while -its body is covered with minute scales. As this snake has the power of -moving backward or forward with equal facility, it is supposed by many -to be actually possessed of two heads. There is abundant nourishment for -it in the ant nests which it frequents, but it feeds also on earthworms, -and the larvæ of insects, pursuing them with unrelenting perseverance -through the ground. The double motion of this reptile, its great -muscular powers and flexibility enable it to penetrate the deepest -recesses of a colony of ants, and to pierce the earth with wonderful -expedition in search of prey.</p> - -<h3>ANTIDOTES.</h3> - -<p>Several antidotes are recommended for the venomous bite of snakes; some -of them possess real alexipharmic virtues, as the <i>raiz de mato</i>, to -which I have already alluded under the name of Aristolochia bulbosa, and -the <i>guaco</i>, (Mikania Guaco,) a composite plant which the learned Mutis -has rendered so celebrated through the instrumentality of Humboldt; the -others, however, are nothing more than superstitious imaginings, which -see in the tooth of a crocodile extracted on Good Friday, or in some -unmeaning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> orison whispered in the sufferer’s ear, greater powers than -in all the resources of medical science. Yet such is the leaning of the -benighted children of Nature in these regions toward the supernatural, -that they always give the preference to whatever savors most of the -miraculous. Somewhat of this has doubtless arisen from the mistaken idea -that all snakes are poisonous. Thus if it so happen that the incantation -is whispered over a person who recovers, having been bitten by a -harmless snake, his cure is of course attributed to magic, which is -accordingly proclaimed a sovereign remedy for all similar cases in -future. Saint Paul, as I have already mentioned, possesses not only the -power of arresting the fatal spring of a snake, if invoked in time, but -can also neutralize the poison, even when it is circulating through the -veins. Notwithstanding my want of faith in the intervention of the saint -in question, I confess myself to have been on an occasion extremely -puzzled by one of these cherished superstitions, the famous <i>Oracion de -San Pablo</i>, and up to this period have not been able to account for it -in a manner satisfactory to my common sense. As we were one afternoon -driving home a herd of cattle, the majordomo’s horse was bitten by a -<i>matacaballo</i>, when at a short distance from the ranch. The rider -observed his sudden start, and at once mentioned the cause thereof. The -ground, overgrown with grass, was diligently searched, and the snake -discovered and killed on the very spot pointed out by the majordomo, who -in the mean time had hastened forward with his horse to the ranch, -knowing that the strength of the poor animal would soon give way.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> -Scarcely had he alighted when his horse, covered with a cold sweat, -dropped to the ground. A <i>curandero</i> or snake doctor immediately -presented himself and commenced a series of incantations over the -prostrate animal, which it was supposed would soon counteract the -poison. I was anxious to administer spirits of hartshorn, a -well-authenticated remedy for such cases, but the Llaneros opposed this -resolutely, on the ground that it would interfere with their own. The -<i>Oracion</i> was accordingly whispered in the horse’s ear and the patient -then removed to a convenient pasture, where he could find abundant feed -if fate ever restored his appetite. Here he was left, rolling upon the -ground and moaning piteously, while I was positively assured by the men -that in the course of two hours, at most, he would be completely -restored, and my scepticism confounded. Singularly enough, the remedy -acted in this case like a real charm; at the appointed time the horse -started to his feet and commenced browsing the grass around him with as -much gusto as if he had experienced no ailment whatsoever. Whether the -venom of the snake was not, in this instance, strong enough to kill the -horse; or, what is more probable, the reptile’s fang might not have -penetrated deep enough, are questions which cannot be decided, but -shortly afterward the same horse, a beautiful but wild and vicious young -stallion, came very near kicking to death the <i>curandero</i> who restored -him to health.</p> - -<p>The Llaneros are not, however, the only people in the country who have -faith in these miraculous cures. It is more or less entertained -throughout the country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span> by persons more enlightened in other respects -than they. It is asserted of a famous <i>curandero</i> in the Valleys of -Aragua, that in extreme cases, if prevented from going in person to the -patient, it was only necessary to send his hat! By placing this talisman -on the injured man’s head, it would not only afford immediate relief, -but arrest the progress of the venom until the owner could come himself -to perfect the cure.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Another singular practice obtains among Llaneros; it is that of -inoculation with the juice of certain plants possessing alexipharmic -virtues, after which the most poisonous snakes may be handled with -impunity. It is asserted, moreover, that <i>cerrados</i>—as individuals thus -inoculated are termed—are not only proof against the bite of these -reptiles, but can attract them around their persons by merely clapping -of hands or whistling for them in fields where they abound. Having never -witnessed any of these experiments, I will neither undertake to uphold -the truth of this assertion, nor will I question its veracity; but there -are hundreds of reliable persons in the country who will unhesitatingly -swear to its efficacy; among them, is the testimony of Dr. Benites, a -professional gentleman who has published the result of his experiments -in a small book on the Materia Medica of the country. With the view of -ascertaining the alleged properties of the guaco he devoted a great -portion of his time while at La Victoria in experimenting with various -kinds of snakes; from him I quote the following passage: “The guaco -possesses in a high degree the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span> faculty of preserving man and animals in -general from the terrible and fatal effects of the bites of serpents. -This valuable secret, discovered in Bogota by the celebrated naturalist, -Don Celestino Mútis, in 1788, remains still as such among some -<i>curanderos</i> of our own country, who, under certain mysterious forms, -and availing themselves of the fangs of serpents, puncture several -slight incisions in certain parts of the body, which they fill with the -powdered leaves of the guaco previously made dry, and administer the -same internally mixed in common rum. This property of the guaco is so -reliable, inoculation by means of the juice such as was practised by -Mútis himself so well authenticated, and the facts concerning it so well -attested, that there cannot longer exist the least doubt in regard to -its efficacy. I wished to convince myself by actual experiment, and can -testify that in a thousand trials of inoculation practised by myself in -different ways on patients whom I allowed to be bitten by various kinds -of snakes, I never knew one to fail. Suffice it to say that the -principal amusement of children in this place is to catch, carry about -and play with snakes, and that even young ladies keep them in their -bosoms or coil them around their necks.”</p> - -<p>It appears, nevertheless, absolutely necessary to renew the inoculation -at different epochs of a man’s life, as in the case of vaccination it -loses its power after a time. It was no doubt owing to his neglect of -the rule, that a gentleman in the town of Ocumare some years ago fell a -victim to his blind confidence in this sort of inoculation. Don N. -Ugarte had kept<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span> a rattlesnake in a drawer during four years; with it he -occasionally amused himself, no more harm resulting therefrom than if it -had been a kitten. One day on returning home from his rounds in the -plantation, he felt in the humor of playing a little with his old pet, -and accordingly took him out of his berth and placed him upon the -writing desk before him. One of the children who had also been -inoculated happening to be near, the father suggested that he should -kiss the reptile; to this, the child objected very decidedly; the -foolish parent, however, insisting, the mother interfered and begged -that her child should not be compelled to touch the loathsome creature; -whereupon the father exclaimed: “How foolish you are! I will show you -how it kisses me. Now, then, pet, give me a kiss;” and so saying, he -leaned forward toward the snake; true to its instincts, the reptile -sprang to his lips and implanted such a kiss that its master never -recovered from the effects. Both fangs of the snake went quite through -his upper lip, and he at once felt himself to be mortally wounded. A -physician was sent for without delay, but he expired before assistance -could reach him.</p> - -<p>The guaco is employed, moreover, in various other disorders of the -system with great success. In chronic rheumatism it is an invaluable -remedy both in the form of poultices made of the fresh leaves, or by -simply rubbing the part affected with a decoction of the plant in -spirits, and taking internally one or two ounces of the expressed juice, -morning and evening. Administered in the latter form it is an -efficacious remedy against hydrophobia, if given immediately<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> after the -person has been bitten by a mad dog. General Paez was thus saved, when a -youth, from this dreadful scourge of tropical countries; he has -nevertheless retained in after life some evil effects of the virus still -in his system manifesting itself in a tendency to severe spasmodic -affections, especially at sight of a snake, which invariably induces -violent convulsions.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_18" id="ill_18"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b219_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b219_sml.jpg" width="449" height="107" alt="Image unavailable: ARISTOLOCHIA APURENSIS.—Natural Size." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ARISTOLOCHIA APURENSIS.—Natural Size.</span> -</div> - -<p>Next to the guaco in importance as an alexipharmic, may be classed the -<i>raiz de mato</i> including several varieties of Aristolochias, the roots -of which are intensely bitter. As its name implies, it is said to afford -the <i>mato</i>—a large species of lizard—a prompt antidote against the -bite of his old antagonist, the snake. There would seem to exist some -ancient grudge between these two reptiles, many persons asserting that -whenever they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span> come in sight of one another, they instantly rush to the -attack, the <i>mato</i> never failing to overcome his rival by his superior -botanical knowledge; this, or his instinct, prompts him to seek the -plant, and swallowing some of the leaves, returns recuperated to the -fight.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a></p> - -<p>To the facts adduced above, I now have the pleasure of adding the -testimony of such an authority as Gosse, who has devoted an entire -chapter of his truly romantic book<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> to the consideration of a subject -“well worthy of minute investigation by able and unprejudiced men of -science, willing to receive unscientific information and suggestions, in -various parts of the world, particularly in the intertropical regions of -both hemispheres.” Among the many well-authenticated incidents recorded -by him, I select the following as bearing a striking similarity to the -one just mentioned: “Some animals, especially those which prey upon -serpents, seem to be proof against their bites. The ichneumons, or -mangoustes of Africa and Asia, have long been celebrated for their -immunity, and veritable stories have been narrated of their having -recourse to some herb, when bitten, after which they successfully -renewed the attack. Percival, in his account of Ceylon,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> relates that a -mangouste placed in a close room where a venomous serpent was, instead -of darting at it, as he would ordinarily have done, ran peeping about, -anxiously seeking some way of escape; but finding none, it returned to -its master, crept into his bosom, and could by no means be persuaded to -face the snake. When, however, both were removed out of the house into -the open field, the mangouste instantly flew at the serpent, and soon -destroyed it. After the combat the little quadruped suddenly disappeared -for a few minutes, and again returned. Percival concludes, not -unreasonably, that during its absence it had found the antidotal herb, -and eaten of it. The natives state that the mangouste resorts on such -occasions to the <i>Ophiorhiza mungos</i>, whose root is reputed a specific -for serpent-bites. This is a cinchonaceous plant, so intensely bitter -that it is called by the Malays by a name which signifies earth-gall.”</p> - -<p>How wonderful the provisions of bountiful Nature are; and still more -singular the readiness of the human intellect, whether in a rude or a -cultivated state, to make them subservient to its wants! The most -extraordinary antidote against the bite of serpents yet within my -knowledge, is the one employed on the coast of Cartagena, not the -“earth-gall,” which they possess of the bitterest kind in Aristolochia -unguicida, but the gall of the reptile itself, an alcoholic solution of -which, administered to the patient in small doses, rubbing the wound -with the same, or with spirits of ammonia, being sufficient to -counteract the virus of the most deadly serpents of that region.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">TIGER STORIES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the second night from our arrival at the Mata, just as most of our -party in their hammocks were swinging off into dreamland, the ominous -cry of <i>El Tigre!</i>—the tiger—was heard in the direction of the camp -fires, where a few of the men still lingered. As if lifted by a gust of -the pampero, every man dropped from his aërial couch, and in an instant -the whole camp became a scene of the wildest confusion. Firebrands flew -in every direction, by the uncertain glare of which we gained occasional -glimpses of the jaguar, for such was the intruder, prowling near us like -a huge cat. The horses snorted in terror, the men shouted vociferously, -while our brave Mónico commenced drumming upon his pots and kettles as -if they were so many gongs, with which in his capacity of cook he -summoned us to dinner, creating such an uproar as drowned the voices of -men and beasts, and was horrible enough to frighten away a legion of -jaguars. The odor of the savory spits, at all hours faithful to their -posts around the camp fires, had</p> - -<p><a name="ill_19" id="ill_19"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b222a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b222a_sml.jpg" width="536" height="351" alt="Image unavailable: THE JAGUAR." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE JAGUAR.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a>{223}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">doubtless proved the magnet of attraction to his spotted majesty, who, -probably disgusted with the style of his reception, made a precipitate -retreat to his stronghold in the forest, growling indignation at our -want of hospitality.</p> - -<p>Although among the natives he is commonly known by the name of the -tiger, this animal is actually the jaguar or Felix Onza of naturalists, -no real tigers existing in any part of America. It nevertheless exerts -the same tyranny over other animals as does the tiger or leopard in the -hot regions of the Old World, differing from its congener principally in -the form of the marks upon his skin, which in the jaguar of America are -rounded or in rings, therein unlike the long stripes of the Bengal -tiger. In another species common to the forests of Guayana, the skin is -nearly black, the spots being invisible except in the broad sunlight. -This is considered the most sanguinary and ferocious. Some jaguars -attain a great size, measuring seven feet from the nose to the tail. -They are sufficiently powerful to kill an ox or horse and drag them off -over the highest fences.</p> - -<p>When the excitement occasioned by the intrusion of the nocturnal thief -had subsided, few of us were inclined for sleep; several of our men, -therefore, who had been at different times active participators in -similar adventures, volunteered entertaining us for the remainder of the -night with some interesting stories concerning this lord of South -American forests. From them I gathered many useful facts respecting his -habits and disposition, which I shall recount as nearly as possible -verbatim.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span></p> - -<p>Although, perhaps, the most powerful among wild beasts of this -continent, the jaguar is by no means as terrible as might be supposed -from the renown of his prowess. Occasionally when hard pressed by hunger -he ventures within the precincts of man, robbing the corrals of the -farmhouse of their defenceless inmates. Many instances are also related -of his having attacked and carried off a solitary traveller to his lair -in the woods; but he usually evinces the profoundest respect for man -unless driven to extremities, when he has been known to set at defiance -the combined efforts of a host of men and dogs. When thus, by a too -intimate acquaintance with the people and flocks of some particular -community, he has gone so far as to levy blackmail upon them, the -appellation of <i>cebado</i>—as in the case of the crocodile—is given to -the jaguar. An animal of this description is said to possess wonderful -daring and instinct, making him by far the most dangerous of the class, -attacking not only tame animals in the corrals, but even individuals are -frequently assailed and devoured by him. It is said also that when he -has once tasted human blood, he becomes insatiable in his eagerness to -procure this luxury. They are then so dangerous, that the owners of -cattle farms usually call a meeting of all the <i>hateros</i> in the -vicinity, capable of handling lazo or lance—firearms being rarely used -in expeditions of this kind—and with the assistance of a pack of -well-trained hounds of a peculiar breed, called <i>tigreros</i> in -consequence, they surround the wood supposed to harbor the tiger, and -beating carefully about the jungle, drive him out into the open plain, -where men on horseback are stationed ready to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span> lazo the game as it -breaks cover. To ensure success, it is only requisite that the horses be -steady and well trained to the sport; and as the tiger, conscious of his -danger, frequently refuses to quit the jungle, a number of daring -matadors are also needed to drive him out or attack him in his lair, -assisted in this by the dogs, which, by harassing him on all sides, -divert him from the assailants.</p> - -<p>Jaguars were at one time so numerous in the Llanos, that their ravages -upon the calves and young foals were truly frightful. This circumstance, -in addition to the value attached in other countries to their beautiful -skins, have contributed to reduce the numbers very considerably, as -whenever they make their appearance they are eagerly pursued.</p> - -<p>In its wild state the jaguar is an exceedingly beautiful animal; his -motions particularly easy and graceful, and possessing wonderful agility -in bounding among the trees and tall grass of the savannas. When -watching for prey, he generally crouches upon the ground, the fore paws -stretched out, resting his head between them in a manner very similar to -that of the domestic cat; and as he climbs trees with a facility almost -equal to that of monkeys, these are in exceeding dread of him on that -account.</p> - -<p>The haunts usually preferred by the jaguar appear to be swampy borders -of marshes and lagoons overgrown with reeds and wild plantain, where -they are sure of finding plenty of game. Water hogs or capyvaras -especially, are easy prey, as they cannot move except in short jumps. It -is asserted that where these animals abound, there is little to be -feared from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span> jaguar, which always prefers the wild animals of the -field for food, becoming bolder and more dangerous to man in proportion -as these disappear.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>My earliest recollection of the jaguar dates from the time when the -famous town of Achaguas was head-quarters for the patriot army commanded -by my father. I was a little fellow not more than three years of age, -when a foraging party fell in with a tigress and her cub; the latter -they secured and brought to Achaguas after a desperate struggle with the -mother. The extreme beauty and youth of the captive soon gained the -sympathies and favor of a host of admirers, especially those of the -female department, in the household of Colonel Mujica, who purchased it -and consigned it to their care. Under their special protection and good -treatment it quickly grew strong enough to take part in all squabbles -among the dogs and cats of the family, which animals always form a -prominent feature in all well-regulated Llanero establishments. At first -the new pet was allowed the entire freedom of the premises, associating -very readily with every stranger who visited the house, and evincing -none of the disagreeable traits ascribed to these animals. I, who -participated in all its juvenile antics, and who supposed it to be only -a large cat, very soon became its favorite playmate, until on one -occasion it carried its pranks so far as to throw me down, at the same -time tearing my clothing to rags with its claws. From this moment it was -considered expedient to chain up my playfellow, and accordingly he was -secured to a pillar<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span> in the corridor of the house. It is related of this -favorite, that having afterward broken its chain, it speedily found the -way to the poultry yard where the Colonel kept his game chickens, not -one of which was left to fight its battles over. For this unpardonable -breach of discipline the young tiger received so sound a castigation as -to cripple the poor fellow for life.</p> - -<p>Numberless are the tricks recorded of the lame tiger of Colonel Mujica, -they for a time constituting the principal amusement of those of the -army who were in the habit of frequenting the Colonel’s quarters to -while away their idle hours at the favorite game of monte. What finally -became of my uncouth playfellow, I am unable to state; the probability -is that he, as well as most of the brave champions of that memorable -epoch, is dead; at all events, they are buried ... in the dust of the -past.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>In a solitary ranch, not far from San Jaime, there once lived a poor -widow, who, out of compassion for a young cub which had been picked up -by some vaqueros undertook to raise it with the milk of her own goats, -sheltering it at night from the damp under the folds of her bed, -covering and treating the foundling with as much affection as though it -were her child. In return, the little fellow became so attached to its -adopted mother, that it could not endure a moment’s separation from her, -and would lie like a cat by the fireside while she devoted herself to -the occupations of the kitchen. As it grew older and stronger, the -woman’s slender stock of goats was rapidly diminished by its repeated -depredations; it was therefore<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span> deemed prudent to give it wider range -than the widow’s little farm-yard, and it was encouraged to seek for -game in the neighboring woods. Whenever successful in these excursions, -the intelligent creature invariably brought some home, and with seeming -pride laid it at the feet of its benefactress. On one occasion, some of -her neighbors having come to pass the day with her, she thought that as -game was plentiful and easily obtained, she would spare such of her -goats as had thus far escaped the teeth of her favorite, and, instead, -procure with its assistance a supply of venison with which to treat her -guests. Accordingly, leaving the hut in their charge, she and her -efficient hunter started for the woods, proposing to be back in time to -cook the dinner; but to the astonishment of her visitors, the -dinner-hour arrived, then the night, but no tidings of the hunters; and -up to this time, I believe, nothing has been heard about either of the -former tenants of the solitary ranch, although it is not difficult to -imagine the poor widow’s fate.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>We had once in our employ a stout and powerful sambo, who on account of -his name—Bolívar—and his great muscular development, had received the -sobriquet of Bolivote, or big Bolívar. Great was his pride in possessing -not only the same patronymic as the distinguished General of his name, -but also some deep scars on his right arm, inflicted by the claws of a -jaguar, which he improved every opportunity of displaying.</p> - -<p>Bolivote had been riding hard during a whole day, and feeling rather -weary, sought repose under<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span> the shade of a clump of palm trees, allowing -his horse meanwhile to crop the grass near by. He had lain down at the -foot of a palm, and almost fallen asleep, when he was roused by a -rustling of the leaves overhead, and looking up to ascertain the cause, -beheld with astonishment a large jaguar in the act of springing upon -him. He started to his feet, but was within the tiger’s grasp ere he -could unsheath his sword. Without losing a moment he plunged his finger -into one of the fiery eyeballs glaring upon him, and succeeded in -forcing it from its socket. The pain thus inflicted was so acute, that -the tiger retreated with fearful yells; yet not before he had mangled -with teeth and claws the sturdy arm which had punished him so severely.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>During our journey across the pampas, we were shown the spot where not -long before a jaguar had attacked a woman. Her preservation, also, was -due to presence of mind, and to the fact of being armed with a <i>machete</i> -or cutlass, with which she had intended cutting a load of wood for -domestic uses. The wood being near at hand, she was in the daily habit -of fearlessly traversing the plain alone. On one occasion she went <i>al -monte</i>, to the fields, as they say there, with the intention of -collecting her usual load of fagots. No sooner did she commence breaking -the sticks, than a deep rumbling growl which seemed to shake the ground -beneath her feet, almost paralyzed her movements. Although the sound was -somewhat familiar, yet she never before had heard it so near at hand, -and she was therefore instantly conscious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span> of her perilous situation. -Knowing that an attempt at precipitate flight would only contribute to -increase the anger of the tiger, she decided accordingly upon concealing -herself and remaining perfectly quiet behind a large tree. Vain -endeavor! in a few moments a large jaguar glided from the tangled jungle -and stood before the terrified woman, his eyes shooting fire, his open -mouth parched with thirst of blood. At the dread sight she gave herself -up for lost, and began reciting aloud a prayer to her patron saint, -which the tiger answered with another fearful roar. The jaguar then -commenced tearing up the roots of the nearest tree, looking the while -like a huge cat sharpening his claws. Then gradually approaching the -woman’s hiding-place until within a few yards, with a bound he cleared -the space separating them, and alighted at the foot of the tree behind -which she was sheltered. Without a moment’s loss, the woman aimed a blow -with her <i>machete</i>, severing one of the paws which grasped the tree. -This partly disabling him, he retreated a few paces; but soon returning -to the attack, received a second blow, this time on his head, with such -good effect that he fell stunned upon the ground. It is needless to add -that our heroine did not wait to see what might have been the final -result of this blow, but springing from her hiding-place, she so -belabored him with her <i>machete</i> as to completely spoil his skin for -marketable purposes.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Among the troop of idlers and adventurers always following the camp, we -were favored at Mata Gorda with the company of a famous story teller of -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span> Apure, who, in wonderful encounters with wild beasts, and -marvellous adventures, might almost rival the celebrated Baron -Munchausen, or even the sailor of Arabian Nights celebrity. His real -name was B.; but owing to his diminutive stature and cunning, he had -been honored with the familiar appellation of <i>Tio Conejo</i>.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> Indeed, -so small was he, that if we credit his statement, he was often mistaken -for his own baby, usurping its place in the cradle for the purpose of -enjoying the kisses and other <i>petites caresses</i> usually lavished by the -female sex upon these tender innocents. Among the various incidents of -his eventful life, he had, as a matter of course, something to say -concerning tigers.</p> - -<p>“Once upon a time,” said our humorous companion, “I was by the banks of -the river Uribante, and there had an opportunity of cheating <i>Tio Tigre</i> -in his endeavors to make mince meat of my humble self. Returning one day -from a successful fishing excursion, I was enjoying my usual siesta when -<i>El Tio</i> made up his mind, as it seemed, to pay me an unexpected visit, -doubtless with the intention of robbing me of the products of my -industry, which I had dressed and salted a few minutes before. Happily I -have for obvious reasons accustomed my eyes to keep alternate watch when -camping out alone, as was the case in this instance, so that if -approached by any evil-disposed individual, I am always able to avoid<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span> -danger through the watchfulness of the one on duty; when this sentinel -becomes weary, I allow it to sleep and rouse its fellow.</p> - -<p>“Well, <i>Señores</i>, as I have said already, one of my watchmen observing -the tiger coming toward me, I sprang from my hammock with the intention -of giving him a warm reception; but, luckily for the spotted vagabond, -my <i>cuchillo</i>, which is always by my side, was left forgotten among the -heap of fish I had been dressing. Thus cut off from my only means of -defence, and observing near by an immense gourd of a size such as is -rarely seen in these parts, I slipped into it just when <i>Tio Tigre</i> -thought he had me.”</p> - -<p>The narrative was here interrupted by a sceptical individual from the -audience insisting upon being enlightened as to the precise dimensions -of that gourd; the reply was, “Why, Sirs, here is nothing extraordinary. -I have seen squashes at the foot of the Cordilleras, each of which would -be a load sufficient for a bongo. I once lost a pack of mules during the -night, and after searching for them around the base of what I supposed a -hillock, I found the sagacious animals inside one of these squashes—for -such was the seeming hillock—supping at leisure on the succulent pulp, -having gnawed for themselves a passage to the interior. But to return to -my story. The tiger, enraged at my sudden disappearance, commenced a -deliberate attack with teeth and claws upon the tough and slippery -shell, with no other result than that of rolling the gourd with me in it -further from him.</p> - -<p>“It was hugely amusing to watch from my stronghold the tactics of my -assailant; at one moment</p> - -<p><a name="ill_20" id="ill_20"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b232b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b232b_sml.jpg" width="384" height="250" alt="Image unavailable: THE PUMA." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE PUMA.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">crouched a short distance off upon the ground, he would watch the -mysterious object much as a cat watches a mouse; then with a sudden -spring pounced again upon the gourd, thus causing it to roll before him -like a ball. My only fear was, that the tiger in one of these furious -onsets might precipitate me into the stream below. I was not then aware -that water in deep rivers reaches no lower than the base of their steep -banks, which act as support for the whole body of water above, thus -leaving a clear expanse underneath and the bed of the river entirely -dry, a remarkable fact which I discovered on another occasion when -diving in the Orinoco for a lost treasure belonging to the monks.</p> - -<p>“That which I feared at last came to pass. The gourd, pushed by the -tiger, fell spinning into the water, and I found myself sailing down the -stream escorted by a band of hungry crocodiles, who watched me with -eager eyes and open jaws, until my patron saint in the form of a humane -porpoise came to my assistance, frightened off the ugly wretches, and -receiving me on his back, landed me in safety on a desert shore, where, -<i>amigos</i>, you will have to leave me for the present, as it is almost -morning, and we must sleep an hour or two before starting for the -<i>Rodeo</i>.”</p> - -<h3>THE PANTHER-TIGER.</h3> - -<p>Although principally a sojourner in the more elevated parts of the -country, the panther is occasionally seen descending toward the plains -in search of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span> the abundant fare of the pampas. He resembles the jaguar -in many respects, and is called in consequence, <i>tigre de serrania</i>, or -mountain tiger. He is, however, easily distinguished from the former by -the shape of his head, which in the panther is more acute toward the -snout, while the spots on his skin are smaller and more closely set.</p> - -<p>The panther is by far the bolder and more sanguinary of the two; he -frequents the mountain passes, waylaying stray animals and solitary -travellers; and there are many cases on record in which he has displayed -his bloodthirsty propensities by boldly seeking food even in the very -haunts of man.</p> - -<p>Some of the mountain districts of Venezuela are so infested with them, -that few travellers ever venture to journey alone there; as, for -instance, the <i>montaña de</i> Capaya, east of Caracas, and the Cerro de -Aroa to the west, both famed for the number and boldness of these -animals. Under cover of the dense forests with which those mountains are -clothed to the very summit, they lie in wait. Not long since, a -traveller from the village of Aroa, finding the distance greater than he -had anticipated, was compelled to pass the night in the forest. Fearing -the panthers, he slung his hammock between two palm trees as high as -possible from the ground, hoping doubtless thereby to escape them, but -his precautions proved of no avail; the poor traveller fell a prey to -one of these sanguinary beasts. A few days after, a party of muleteers -passing along the same route, found on the spot where the sad tragedy -had been enacted, evidence of the bloody assault. Deep furrows<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span> ploughed -in the ground between the palm trees, showed that the panther must have -made frequent and tremendous leaps to reach the unfortunate traveller; -but with the exception of the torn hammock, there remained no vestige of -the victim.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>My first vacation trip from the terrors of a South American school and -the angry visage of a harsh preceptor, is still fresh in my mind, as is -also the fright I received upon the road from an imaginary panther while -endeavoring to reach before daylight the nearest inn upon the route.</p> - -<p>The road from the capital to the Valleys of Aragua—our -destination—lies for the most part over a high ridge of mountains with -precipitous sides, interspersed here and there with deep ravines and -almost impenetrable thickets of forest trees, fit lurking-places for -wild beasts and banditti. The extreme steepness of the road renders the -aid of mules, or horses of superior mettle, imperative, and for this -exigency our attentive guides had well provided before leaving Caracas.</p> - -<p>The party was principally composed of young gentlemen and their -attendants, all like myself bound to the fertile regions of Aragua, -where we purposed passing the holidays with our families; and a wilder -set of madcaps it would have been difficult to find. Every moment -witnessed a malicious trick, sometimes tickling the mules under the -cruppers with whips, until, worried into frenzy, they plunged fearfully -along the road, placing us in danger of being hurled into eternity -through the yawning chasms beneath.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span> Sometimes jerking the tail of a -neighbor’s mule, causing the animal to whirl so violently as to almost -destroy its balance. Occasionally some of the party might be seen -scrambling up the rugged side of a mountain after bright colored insects -or wild berries. At length, the steepness of the ascent no longer -permitting the continuance of our pranks, the guides entertained us with -frightful stories of a tiger said to lurk in these mountains; but -chiefly with accounts of horrid murders perpetrated at various points -along our route, which, judging from the many crosses and stone mounds -raised to the victims by the piety of wayfarers, must have been truly -appalling in number. In those parts it is customary to mark the spot -where a crime of the kind has been committed, with a wooden cross, at -whose foot every passer-by casts a stone, muttering at the same time a -prayer for the repose of the unshriven soul. One of these memorials was -erected to a poor fellow, whose throat had been cut and body frightfully -mutilated for a new poncho and a few reals. At another, a tiger had -seized a wearied poultry carrier imprudently asleep by the side of his -coop, and devoured him and his chickens. In another instance, the tiger -appeared suddenly among a group of muleteers quietly refreshing -themselves by the murmuring waters of a mountain stream, and after -scattering the affrighted group, helped himself to their repast.</p> - -<p>These stories, told with great vivacity and much embellishment, excited -in a high degree the fervid imaginations of the youthful cavalcade, -causing them as night approached to keep close together. They, however, -did not deter me, who had ever a peculiar<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span> fondness for the beautiful in -nature, from loitering somewhat in the rear of my companion to gaze in -wondering admiration upon the grandeur and wild luxuriance of the scene -which on all sides met my eyes. Absorbed in contemplation I was riding -slowly along, when suddenly, and to my great horror and dismay, I found -myself in presence of, apparently, the dreaded tiger of the mountains. -My imagination, roused by the exciting stories of the muleteers, showed -me the spotted brute seated upon his haunches, his sinister eyes gazing -steadily at me over his right shoulder. Notwithstanding this pacific -attitude, a thrill of terror chilled my veins, while in spite of the -cold prevailing on those mountain ranges, heavy drops of perspiration -streamed from my trembling body. The tiger seeming spell-bound with my -sudden apparition, I endeavored to cry aloud for help; but terror had -deprived me of voice. I then concluded to dismount and place the mule -between myself and the tiger, which impulse was suddenly checked as I -caught sight of the yawning precipice beside me. I had therefore no -alternative, other than the ignominious one of sliding down in the rear -of my mule, a feat I rapidly accomplished without in the least -inconveniencing the patient creature, which all the while stood quietly -awaiting my pleasure. At this moment the moon, until then partially -obscured by the dense fog, shone brilliantly upon the scene, when, to my -great mortification and greater relief, I discovered that the ferocious -tiger of my imagination was only the fallen branch of a tree covered -with leaves, which last my fertile fancy had mistaken for the spotted -skin of the dreaded mountain tiger.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">SHOOTING ADVENTURES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> were now in the very midst of the most splendid shooting ground of -the republic, and each day my quest after the feathered inhabitants of -those fine groves was rewarded with an abundant supply of <i>pavas</i>, -<i>guacharacas</i>, and that most noble and beautiful of all game birds, the -<i>paujī</i> or crested curassow of South America, (Crax alector.) This -fine species is found in all parts of the country, especially in the -woods of the <i>tierra caliente</i>, where it can be tracked without -difficulty by the shrill and prolonged whistle with which it calls its -mate, and which can be heard from a long distance. It appears not to -notice the presence of the hunter, allowing itself to be shot down -without making the least effort to avoid the danger. This bird is nearly -the same size as the domestic turkey, and being easily domesticated, -could very well supply the place of that fowl, as the flesh is juicy and -of exquisite flavor. Its plumage is peculiarly rich and beautiful, the -head and neck being white and the rest of its body of a rich olive -brown, excepting the wing tips which are black. An elegant<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span> tuft of -curled, glossy black feathers surmounts the head, adding greatly to the -splendor of its appearance. In the more elevated parts of the country -there is another species, the <i>paujī de piedra</i> or cashew-bird, so -called from a singular excrescence on the top of its head, in color a -bluish gray, and bearing some resemblance to a polished nodule of slate. -This bird only inhabits woods growing at about four thousand feet of -elevation, and if possible exceeds in beauty the preceding. Its plumage -of a deep black, with tints of olive green, contrasts exquisitely with -that of the bill and legs, which are respectively of a brilliant scarlet -and deep yellow. They are even more easily domesticated than the -preceding, and are therefore to be met with in many a farm yard of the -Cordillera, where they form one of its most graceful ornaments.</p> - -<p>The <i>guacharaca</i> or South American pheasant may also be classed among -the finest game birds of Venezuela, and is extremely abundant -everywhere. In riding along the solitary roads through the plains and -fertile vales of the <i>tierra caliente</i>, the traveller may have often -noticed at all hours of the day and even of the night, more especially -at the approach of rain, a most discordant chattering in harsh and -shrill notes; it is the song of the <i>guacharaca</i>, a bird of about the -size of the domestic hen, bearing some resemblance to the female -pheasant, and like it of a chocolate color. It is of a sociable nature, -always congregating in flocks of twenty or thirty. The moment one of the -number leads the chant, all the rest join in chorus, uttering distinctly -in hoarse repetition <i>guacharaca, guacharaca</i>;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span> hence the name of this -bird. These cries are invariably responded to by all the flocks in the -neighborhood, so that in a short time the whole valley rings from end to -end with their discordant voices. Like all other gallinaceous birds, it -is very easily domesticated with the <i>paujies</i>, <i>pavas</i>, <i>gallinetas</i>, -and several other wild fowl with which the rural inhabitant loves to -stock his yard.</p> - -<p>In addition to the foregoing, there are also in the Llanos all kinds of -wild pigeons, doves, plovers, and quails, the latter so abundant that -they can easily be killed by the hundred with a stick. And indeed, so -great is the almost endless variety of fine birds in these wilds, that -it would be impossible, within the limits of these pages, to enter into -further detail concerning them.</p> - -<p>Deer were also very plentiful, both in the <i>mata</i>, whither they were -attracted by its refreshing shade, and in the meadows around it; but -having no dogs with us, and being unwilling to tire our horses in -unprofitable sport, we refrained from their pursuit. One afternoon, -however, much to my surprise, a merry, clever fellow by the name of -Casimiro, who had followed us from the valleys, entered the camp bending -under the weight of a fine doe which he had killed that afternoon, -together with a buck that an Indian boy was carrying for him. On our -complimenting his extraordinary skill in killing two deer in so short a -space of time, he informed us that he could have brought down any number -of them, and intended retracing his steps at once for more. This proved -no mere boast, for quickly returning to the woods, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> soon after again -made his appearance with a similar load, which, seating himself by the -fire, he at once commenced skinning.</p> - -<p>I inquired of Casimiro the occasion of his success; he replied by -producing a tube of bamboo about the thickness of the thumb, one end -being covered with a thin membrane. On blowing through the other end, a -sound precisely resembling the bleating of a young fawn resulted. It is -in this manner that the treacherous hunter decoys the anxious doe, whose -every motion he watches from the place of his concealment behind the -branches of some tree, usually the algarrobo, of whose pods deer are -very fond. This detestable expedient is, I am glad to state, rarely -practised unless by hungry sportsmen; and as we were then in the midst -of plenty, and venison besides not being much relished by the -beef-eating population of the Llanos, we had fortunately no occasion to -resort to it in any of our subsequent deer-shooting adventures.</p> - -<p>Another device much practised by Indians in these cases, consists in -assuming the guise of the great <i>garzon</i> or soldier crane of the pampas, -whose company appears always welcome to deer grazing in the open -prairie. This crane, which I have mentioned in a former chapter, as -being at the least five feet in height, is mounted upon a pair of long -slender legs, giving it the appearance of walking on stilts; their -plumage is a dazzling white, and they have a pouch under the throat of a -brilliant scarlet color. The bill, too, is quite a remarkable feature, -fully a foot<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> long and very wide at the base, which permits of -swallowing at a mouthful large fish, as well as frogs, toads and snakes, -of which last it partakes with equal relish. All that the hunter has to -do, who intends ensnaring his deer with borrowed plumes, is to hide his -own face with a mask, which must have a long bill resembling that of the -crane attached to it. The mask being securely fastened on, he finishes -his toilet by covering his body to his knees with a white garment.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_21" id="ill_21"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b242_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b242_sml.jpg" width="170" height="160" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>In this simple disguise the hunter, equipped besides with his gun or bow -and arrows, makes straight for the game, careful however to approach it -in a contrary direction to that of the wind, deer possessing peculiarly -acute powers of scent. On one occasion, I was fortunate enough to shoot -three of these shy animals out of a small herd, before the rest took the -alarm.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span></p> - -<p>Our young <i>attaché</i>, Roseliano, who had witnessed the universal success -of these devices, envying the achievements of his elders, determined to -try what he could accomplish for himself in this line. Accordingly, -choosing for his intended victim a fine stag grazing at no great -distance from the camp, he forthwith proceeded on his experiment. Having -no <i>garzon’s</i> beak at hand, nor even a white garment, with which to -personate the feathered dandy of the savannas, he was for some time at a -loss how to approach the game without alarming it, when a malicious -companion persuaded him that he could ensnare the deer equally well if -he presented himself simply <i>in puris naturalibus</i>, assuring him that -the animal would indubitably conceive him to be a rare bird or at least -a new species of <i>garzon</i>. Roseliano, finally convinced by these -specious representations, quickly denuded himself; then, gun in hand, -and taking all necessary precautions in regard to the wind, which was -blowing quite fresh at the time, immediately gave chase.</p> - -<p>At first the stag appeared to pay little heed to the enticing object, -and allowed it to approach within range; but the moment the gun was -raised, the stag turned round and trotted slowly off, waving his short -tail defiantly. Sometimes he stopped for a little while, seeming to -examine from head to foot this unfeathered biped, afterward resuming his -mastications with perfect nonchalance. At such times Roseliano, with due -precautions, would creep slowly toward him, when invariably the deer, -almost within range, again trotted composedly down the plain, not even -giving his pursuer a chance to aim at him. Occasionally he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span> would turn -about, stamp his tiny hoof upon the hard ground, and again move off -wagging his little tail at him as though to say, “No, you don’t.”</p> - -<p>Thus went each, still eluding still pursuing, for a long distance, -without either seeming at all willing to part company, until the burning -sun began to tell upon the bare skin of the young hunter, who -experienced besides sundry painful reminders from the thorny sensitive -plants under foot. At length growing somewhat desperate, he dashed ahead -and sent a random shot after the deer without success, the ball striking -the ground far short of the mark. The deer seemed now to think he had -received notice to quit, for, to the great disgust of poor Roseliano, he -at once bounded gracefully over the tall grass and disappeared from -view.</p> - -<p>Within a stone’s throw of our camp were several lagoons abounding in -terrapins and turtles, whilst on all sides the savannas teemed with many -delicious quadrupeds. These, on account of their <i>penchant</i> for the -water, have been declared cold-blooded animals by the church, and can in -consequence be eaten as fish; and as it was Holy Week, a grand hunt was -proposed for the purpose of providing the camp with food which should be -wholesome as well for the soul as the body. Accordingly, early on Good -Friday morning the whole disposable force assembled in front of the -ranch; and after a partial organization, all started on foot in -different directions, some in quest of <i>cachicamos</i> or armadillos, -others for <i>galapagos</i> and tortoises, while the less fastidious did not -disdain to try their skill upon those water hogs, the <i>chigüires</i> or -capyvaras.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span></p> - -<p>The results of the hunt far exceeded our expectation, as in less than -four hours nearly three hundred armadillos, and probably as many -turtles, were brought into camp. The flesh of the <i>chigüire</i> is not much -relished by the Llaneros, although it is excellent for hams when -properly cured and smoked; accordingly the carcasses, the hind quarters -being removed, were left to the turkey buzzards.</p> - -<p>The flesh of the armadillo is most delicious, tasting very much like -young pig; and being always roasted in the shell—a thick cuirass formed -of successive horny plates—all its juices are effectually preserved. It -is, however, very rich eating, from the excess of fatness, and therefore -liable to produce indigestion, if not followed by a good dose of -aguardiente and a strong sauce of Chili peppers. It is also said to -exert very injurious effects on persons predisposed to syphilitic -disorders of the system, developing incipient ulcers and various other -cutaneous diseases.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_22" id="ill_22"></a></p> - -<div class="figright"> -<a href="images/illus-b245_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b245_sml.jpg" width="111" height="101" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>The armadillo is a harmless, curiously-formed little quadruped, about -the size of a common hedgehog; it burrows in the ground, spending the -greater part of the day in cool retirement, issuing at dusk or very -early in the morning in search of food; this consists principally of -worms, the larvæ of insects or perchance a young snake from the broods -that take shelter among the cells of its subterranean abode—whether by -permission or as intruders, remains to be ascertained.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span> The fact is, -however, that many of these burrows are so full of snakes, that it is -necessary on account of them to exercise considerable caution when -passing near the abodes of armadillos. Two little owls called -<i>aguaita-caminos</i>, road-watchers, usually stand like sentinels at the -entrance of these burrows, and by their constant flutterings around the -sportsman, and their uncouth motions, almost invariably succeed in -warning the armadillo. Nevertheless, if the hunter approach in front, he -can always secure it with his hands as its vision in that direction is -entirely obscured by the position of the plates with which the head is -covered. When attacked from the rear or sides, it makes quickly for its -burrow; but if the hunter, however, be sufficiently expert, he may -succeed in getting hold of the long, horny tail of the animal before it -disappears entirely from view. Even then, as this creature possesses the -power of swelling its body when thus attacked, it is rather difficult to -drag it out, unless by some means the size of the burrow can be -enlarged. There is then danger of severe wounds from its sharp claws, as -well as of being bitten by some of the poisonous snakes which share its -home.</p> - -<p>What affinity there is existing between this quadruped and the finny -inhabitants of the water, prompting their classification among amphibia, -I was unable to ascertain; but although the capyvara and several others -placed by the church under that category, possess, it is true, great -powers of resistance while in water, the reverse is assuredly the case -with regard to the armadillo, which always seeks the higher<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span> grounds so -as to escape submersion during the great floods; and I have often found -it in the midst of extensive plains where no moisture excepting the dews -of night is to be seen for miles around.</p> - -<p>When all the different parties, participants in the hunting excursion, -were once more seated round the camp fires, it was quite amusing to hear -their accounts of the various incidents connected with it; one had got -hold of a rattlesnake’s tail, mistaking it for that of an armadillo; -another had stumbled over a crocodile while diving for turtles in a -shallow creek; a third had his toe bitten off by caribes; while not a -few experienced more or less severe shocks from electric eels. In front -of many of the fires, soon blazing under the trees, were arrayed on long -wooden spits entire carcasses of the armadillos split along the belly -and kept open by means of cross bars of green boughs. Directly the coals -were sufficiently hot in the centre of the fires, the galapagos were all -beheaded and thrown, still alive, into the midst of the burning embers. -These chelonia, like all other amphibia, are exceedingly tenacious of -life; their sufferings, therefore, must doubtless be great under this -lingering death, as was manifested by their long-continued struggles in -the fire.</p> - -<p>The Llaneros say that these turtles, according to their most exquisite -gastronomers, should be eaten where there is no light, asserting that -they will then be found more rich and juicy; but the actual reason for -this, as I afterward ascertained to my great disgust, was that some of -the choicest morsels are precisely<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> those which to be eaten must not be -seen, as otherwise they would unhesitatingly be rejected.</p> - -<p>There are several varieties of fresh water tortoises in the Apure, an -abundant and wholesome food for the inhabitants. The most common are the -<i>galapagos</i>, a large species of terrapin, the <i>terecay</i> and the <i>arrau</i> -or great turtle of the Orinoco, concerning which the celebrated Father -Gumilla wrote in his “Orinoco Illustrated,” that it would be as -difficult to count the grains of sand on the shores of the Orinoco, as -to count the immense number of tortoises which inhabit its margin and -water. Although confined principally to the broad channel of the -Orinoco, the <i>arraus</i> are met with also in great abundance in the Apure, -the Arauca, and most of the other large tributaries of that river; as -also in the Amazon, according to Bates’ statements, who has devoted a -chapter to this magnificent turtle, and to the exciting scenes which -take place during the gathering of their eggs by the Amazonian Indians -and Portuguese traders. As I intend to allude again to this subject, I -will return to their congeners of the flooded lands west of the Orinoco. -To convey a distinct idea of the prodigious abundance of this species, -it may suffice to say that by merely driving a herd of wild cattle or -horses at full speed into any pond of these savannas, the first wave -produced by the sudden splash will heave up thousands of turtles upon -the beach. Another method resorted to in the Llanos for obtaining them, -is by raking in the soft mud in which these chelonia habitually bury -themselves the moment they are alarmed. After this mud becomes -thoroughly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span> dried by the summer’s heat, they remain under its indurated -crust in a dormant state until the commencement of the rainy season. Yet -even here the poor creatures are insecure, as they are not unfrequently -roused from their siesta by the hunter setting fire to the dry water -plants, the ornaments of these natural ponds; at such times breaking -through the earth crust which environs them, they in vain endeavor to -escape their tormentors, who can then pick them up at their leisure.</p> - -<p>In addition to the foregoing, there are two other varieties of tortoises -found amidst the marshes and jungles of the Llanos; they are the -<i>morrocoy</i> or land tortoise, having a hard and rounded shell, and the -<i>jicotea</i>, an animal which appears to form the connecting link between -turtles proper and tortoises; both are of excellent flavor, more -especially the former, whose liver, dressed and fried in its own gall, -is undoubtedly superior to that most prized of all epicurean morsels, -<i>foie gras</i>. It is very large as compared with the size of the animal, -decreasing however very materially if its owner has had a long fast, -which, as this reptile, like all others of the class, can and does -frequently live a long time without food, has doubtless occasioned the -popular error that it feeds on its own liver when long deprived of other -nourishment.</p> - -<p>During the season of great droughts, the <i>morrocoy</i> seeks the hollow -trunks of trees for shelter, where it lives entirely without nourishment -for several months, until, feeling the dampness produced by the first -showers of spring penetrating his subterranean abode, he moves slowly -out to browse upon the tender shoots<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span> of water plants and prairie -lilies. The shell of this tortoise is so hard that nothing short of -heavy blows from an axe can separate the thick plates of which it is -formed, and a locomotive engine might pass over it without producing the -least effect upon its unimpressible tenant. Long after the carcass has -been cut up for cooking, and is in water boiling over the fire, the -pieces are incessantly in motion, and it is not until the boiling has -been continued many successive hours, that the meat is fit for eating.</p> - -<p>The land tortoise does not deposit its eggs in the sand, as is the -practice with its congener of the water, but drops them indiscriminately -into any convenient hole, leaving the care of hatching them to the heat -of the earth. The egg, which is larger than a hen’s, is extremely white, -spherical in form, and very hard. The male is readily distinguished from -the female by a deep depression of its pectoral plate, that of the -female being perfectly even with the ground.</p> - -<p>I have been assured by reliable parties that the blood of the <i>morrocoy</i> -is a specific for neuralgia, if rubbed, while still warm, upon the part -affected.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">MATA TOTUMO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Little</span> was accomplished in the way of hunting during the two weeks we -passed at Mata Gorda, occupying ourselves mainly in building a ranch for -the establishment of a caporal and his family, with corrals attached, -sufficiently spacious to accommodate a large drove. Other parts of the -estate requiring immediate attention, we removed from Mata Gorda to Mata -Totumo, a retired corner of the savannas, whose proximity to other -cattle farms exposed it to the constant depredations of poachers. In -this way vast numbers of our cattle were annually lost to us; it had -accordingly become necessary to establish there also a Fundacion, or -small farm with a resident caporal, who should exercise a strict -surveillance and take charge of a small herd of tame cattle as a nucleus -for a permanent settlement in that exposed frontier.</p> - -<p>Hardly were we established in the new encampment, when a party of our -men in scouring the savanna encountered a band of these cattle poachers, -who had already collected a sufficient drove to make<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span> them comfortable -to the year’s end, and were hastening home with their unlawful booty. -Our people immediately gave chase, but succeeded in capturing two only -of the robbers. After whipping these most unmercifully, as is customary -in the Llanos for similar offences, and giving them in addition the -positive assurance that, if again found within the precincts of the -estate, they would fare even worse, the rascals were at length allowed -to depart without further punishment.</p> - -<p>As usual in all our prairie encampments, much time was occupied in -destroying baneful weeds and reptiles. Snakes especially were so -plentiful as to at times greatly endanger our barefooted community. That -habit is second nature, was certainly strikingly exemplified in the -present instance, for in a few days we came to notice the heretofore -dreaded snakes as little as though so many harmless earthworms. Our -fears, if not their cause, being at length entirely removed, we next -erected a shelter from the inclemency of the weather for our abundant -luggage, no small cause of anxiety, situated as we were at a long -distance from the source of any fresh supplies. Afterwards we commenced -raising corrals for our increasing herds. Fortunately building materials -were very abundant; and the bamboo, that graceful representative of the -grasses, was of the greatest utility. Its tall and pliant stems afforded -all that was necessary for rafters and fence rails, serving also various -other uses. To duly estimate the size attained by this giant grass of -the tropics, it is necessary to understand that some stems reach the -astonishing height of thirty<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span> or even forty feet, with a corresponding -thickness of six or seven inches at their base; and as these bamboos -spring in immense clusters from the ground, they grow at last into an -aspect which is truly beautiful. Innumerable slender leaves of a -delicate sea green color, clothe in masses the tops of these huge stems, -curving them downward by their weight, and giving them, especially when -sporting with the soft breezes of the pampas, the appearance of waving -plumes of most magnificent proportions, rising, bending, swaying in -long, graceful sweeps over the tops of the surrounding trees. An elegant -writer, describing this majestic Queen of the Grasses, has beautifully -said, “Grace, delicacy, richness of form and color, every element of -vegetable beauty, appear combined in this luxuriant dweller by the -streams of the tropics. Nothing is more cheerful to the eye of the -heated and wearied traveller, than the deep rocky basins formed by -mountain streams when filled with water, and overshadowed by clumps of -bamboo. They often lean over the stream on one side and arch the pathway -on the other, excluding almost every ray of sunlight from the cool -recesses below. Their delicate brittle leaves are stirred by the tiniest -zephyr, and bend to the pressure of the butterfly and the bee. Sometimes -clumps of bamboo stand on either side of the roads and form long vaulted -passages, as if by fretted Gothic arches, with here and there branches -of rich flowers and leaves hanging down like beautiful corbels. When the -gale of the hurricane comes, these groves of bamboo exchange an aspect -of beauty for that of grandeur. They are heaved and tossed like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span> the -billows of the sea, and their rich foliage driven in every direction -appears like surges breaking on the rocks.”</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>No sooner was the majada in readiness, than we commenced the somewhat -laborious, but at the same time pleasingly exciting business of filling -it, for which purpose we called upon the neighboring cattle farms of La -Yagua and Caucagua for assistance. So effectual were our efforts, that -in a few days we had collected two thousand animals for the brand, most -of which, having long passed the age when this operation is usually -performed, gave us in consequence a great deal of trouble. Occasionally, -by way of relaxation from our labors, we busied ourselves in training -the boys in the manly art of <i>torear</i>, or the scarcely less dangerous -one of breaking in wild horses, on which especially the hardy dwellers -of the Llanos eminently pride themselves. During our sojourn at Mata -Totumo, its owner became concerned in an incident highly illustrative of -this peculiar pride, so universal a trait among these children of Nature -and the Sun, illustrative no less of the almost entire freedom from -conventional restraint which exists between master and servant in the -Llanos. Our Leader had taken a strong fancy to a beautiful cream colored -horse, which, although partially trained to the saddle, missed no -opportunity of practising some of his old tricks, a favorite one being -apparently to unseat, whenever possible, his rider. This amusement he -several times indulged in at the expense of his master, and, as it -chanced, always in presence of his pet caporal,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a>{255}</span> Sarmiento, who -invariably gave <i>carte blanche</i> to his own witticisms on such occasions. -To these the good-humored master replied one day by challenging him to -ride the horse round the camp on a run without being thrown, a dollar to -be added to his wages if successful; if the reverse, the same amount to -be thereafter deducted. “Done,” cried Sarmiento, extending his hand -familiarly to his master; and without more words, having blindfolded the -horse by means of a sliding leather strap attached to the bridle, called -<i>tapaojos</i>, he placed upon him his own saddle and holsters, and the next -moment was firmly seated on his back. Then, removing the bandage, he at -once commenced belaboring the refractory stallion with his <i>chaparro</i>, -showering such powerful blows upon his haunches, that the terrified -animal rushed headlong through the camp, rearing, plunging, and tearing -along the plain at a fearful pace. All in vain were the efforts of the -nigh frantic steed to shake the unmerciful Centaur from his back; the -poor animal had to strive against one with whom contention was -ineffectual, and who finally brought him back triumphantly to the camp -as submissively meek as he had previously been savage and refractory.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Shortly after our arrival in that secluded spot, came the Corporation of -Mantecal, under whose jurisdiction we were, accompanied by many of the -inhabitants, to pay their respects and personal regards to the former -chieftain of the Llanos and late President of the Republic, tendering -him at the same time the hospitalities of the town—a few straggling -huts. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span> was a surprise party, nevertheless we acquitted ourselves with -becoming hospitality. Two fat calves were immediately slaughtered; and -these, together with numbers of armadillos, galapagos, and a fine sow -from the swamps near by, formed a banquet not unworthy a London board of -aldermen. A hastily constructed table, its top made from laths of bamboo -and tied with <i>bejucos</i> or creepers to four rough posts set in the -ground, was soon raised under the trees; the broad leaves of the wild -plantain formed the table cloth, while the shells of galapagos served -the double purpose of plates and dishes, entirely in keeping with the -rural entertainment.</p> - -<p>Here, as well as at Mata Gorda, game was most abundant, and we could at -all times count upon a ready supply with which to vary the more -substantial dishes. Deer were plentiful in the surrounding woods; but I -found them, after killing several, too thin at this season to be worth -hunting, especially as the savannas were teeming with the finest cattle -and wild hogs; the latter are in good condition at all times, and each -day our men brought to camp the spoils of one or more <i>capones</i> hanging -from the saddles.</p> - -<p>The ant-bear or great ant-eater, a stout and powerful animal measuring -six feet from the snout to the end of the tail, also ranged these -prairies; but although his flesh is well-flavored and easily procured, -it is never used for food, owing to his repulsive appearance. “He is -chiefly found in the inmost recesses of the forest, and seems partial to -the low and swampy parts near creeks, where the trocly-tree grows. -There<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_23" id="ill_23"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b257_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b257_sml.jpg" width="226" height="225" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p class="nind">he goes up and down in quest of ants, of which there is never the least -scarcity, so that he soon obtains a sufficient supply of food with very -little trouble. He cannot travel fast; man is superior to him in speed. -Without swiftness to enable him to escape from his enemies; without -teeth, the possession of which would assist him in self-defence; and -without the power of burrowing in the ground, by which he might conceal -himself from his pursuers, he still is capable of ranging through these -wilds in perfect safety; nor does he fear the fatal pressure of the -serpent’s fold, or the teeth of the famished jaguar. Nature has formed -his fore-legs wonderfully thick, and strong, and muscular, and armed his -feet with three tremendous sharp and crooked claws. Whenever he seizes -an animal with these formidable weapons, he hugs it close to his body, -and keeps it there till it dies through pressure,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span> or through want of -food. Nor does the ant-bear in the meantime suffer much from loss of -aliment, as it is a well-known fact that he can go longer without food -than, perhaps, any other animal, excepting the land-tortoise. His skin -is of a texture that perfectly resists the bite of a dog; his hinder -parts are protected by thick and shaggy hair, while his immense tail is -large enough to cover his whole body.”<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></p> - -<p>Numerous also were the foot-prints of the jaguar; yet, in my frequent -perambulations through the forest, it was never my fortune to encounter -this despot of the howling wilderness, although I one day mistook for -his voice that of the <i>titirijí</i> or great horned owl of the pampas. I -found him perched among the branches of a <i>guamo</i> tree, inclining his -large head toward me with a scrutinizing look peculiar to those birds, -as if taking mental notes of my appearance. Whenever I remained -perfectly quiet he gave utterance to his unearthly hootings, the woods -echoing and re-echoing the dismal sounds. The <i>titirijí</i> would seem to -be possessed of some ventriloquial power, for his voice, loud and deep -as it was, yet appeared to issue from a distance. The frequent effect of -this peculiarity is to mislead the unaccustomed hunter, who by it is -readily induced to wander on and on in unavailing search. Having -contemplated at leisure this singular bird, I finally levelled my -fowling-piece at him, and brought him down with a charge of buckshot -which I had destined for a deer. It proved a very fine specimen, with -wings as large as those of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span> good sized turkey, while two horn-like -tufts of feathers rose on each side of the head, which, in addition to -the large, glaring eyes, gave him a truly ferocious aspect. His food -consists of all kinds of wild fowl; however, not being over scrupulous, -he devours with equal relish rats, mice and snakes; while even monkeys -of the smaller sort are often his prey. This owl inhabits for the most -part the loneliest and gloomiest portions of the forest; but is -occasionally seen solemnly watching from some convenient tree-top the -various inhabitants of the farmyard.</p> - -<h3>MANTECAL.</h3> - -<p>In compliance with an invitation tendered to the General and his suite -by the good people of Mantecal, we started in a few days to visit their -village, not far distant from our encampment. When within three miles of -the place, we were welcomed by a large concourse of the inhabitants -coming to escort us. Almost the whole population turned out, saluting -our entry into the town with the firing of blunderbuses and other -firearms, and further gracing it with a most discordant uproar of -rickety harps, violins, and bandolas, enough to have driven frantic the -“Enraged Musician” of Hogarth.</p> - -<p>Mantecal was at one time quite a flourishing town, notwithstanding the -wars which ravaged it for many successive years; but since the great -epidemic of 1832, and subsequently, it has been well nigh depopulated, -while the few inhabitants who were not swept away by the scourge, -abandoned their homes. Thus the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span> once busy community became almost a -dismal wilderness,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Where at each step the stranger fears to wake<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>At the time of our visit to Mantecal but few houses remained standing, -sad monuments of past prosperity. We spent three days there, and the -inhabitants, hospitable in spite of their miserable condition, -entertained us to the utmost of their ability. Not only did they provide -the best accommodations the village afforded, but treated us in addition -to a nightly fandango, in which people of all castes and conditions -joined. These festivities ended, we gladly returned to our prairie home, -the more especially that the important duties we had there to perform -would probably delay our return to Maracay several weeks longer; also -the rainy season was fast approaching and each day we had warnings of -the coming tempest then brewing in the south.</p> - -<p>We continued to hunt those savannas while there were any <i>orejanos</i> to -brand, adding largely in the meantime to our stock of reserved oxen for -the markets of the upper country, which had already increased to a -considerable drove. We also made several excursions to the neighboring -cattle farms for the purpose of separating from their herds all the -<i>orejanos</i> whose mothers bore our brand. Judging from the number of -calves there collected, and without taking into consideration those -yearly discarded by the mothers, it was easy to perceive that the -revenues of those estates were greatly increased at our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span> cost, their -original stock being vastly inferior to ours. In this manner many of the -minor cattle farms enriched themselves at the expense of wealthy -neighbors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">MONKEY NOTIONS.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> <i>guamos</i> were now in full bearing, their luscious pods a grateful -refreshment to the heated and thirsty rambler through the woods. Monkeys -and macaws are particularly fond of this fruit; and on the tops of all -the highest guamo-trees could be seen family reunions of these -chatterers apparently discussing the merits of the crop.</p> - -<p>Of monkeys, the most conspicuous in the Llanos are the <i>araguato</i>, or -howling monkey (Simia ursina), and the <i>machango</i> (S. sajous), this last -a small grey monkey, very common in most parts of Venezuela. On account -of its wonderful agility and vivacious disposition the machango is much -esteemed as a pet by the inhabitants, many of whom keep one or more tied -to a post in the court-yard, where they enact to some extent the rôle of -buffoon to the whole family. They are, however, very mischievous -creatures, doing every possible damage in the house the moment they are -at large; but are especially destructive to cacao plantations<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span> and -cornfields. When about to commence their depredations in these, they -usually assemble in great numbers and exercise many precautions; the -first step is to station several of their number as sentinels upon the -highest trees, or any elevated situation overlooking the avenues leading -to the plantation, whence they warn the others of approaching danger. -The next proceeding is that of placing those of the females—which on -account of their young are prevented from assisting in the foray—in -some safe retreat. The precautions completed, they invest the cornfield -in earnest, pulling down the stocks and tearing off ears of corn with -astonishing expedition, chattering, laughing, and yelling all the while -like a set of mischievous boys in the absence of the dominie. When they -have accumulated a sufficient number of ears, they split the husks, and -tying them in pairs by means of an ingenious knot peculiar to -themselves, called in consequence monkey-tie, they throw them across -their backs, and thus equipped hasten to hide their booty in some safe -nook difficult of discovery by the neglectful majordomo, who not -unfrequently conceals his own defalcations in the yield of the -plantation by ascribing the deficiency to the thieving monkeys. It often -happens that while these last are engaged in their depredations, they -are surprised by the owner of the cornfield, who, eluding the vigilance -of the scouts, suddenly appears and pours a shower of shot into their -midst. Then with shrill cries of alarm the whole troop scamper off -helter-skelter, tumbling, pitching or hobbling along on all fours, but -never dropping a particle of their plunder. The belief obtains<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span> in the -Llanos, that when at length safe in their haunts, the careless sentinels -are arraigned before a council of elders, who after due deliberation -condemn them, after which the guilty parties are tied to a tree and -soundly whipped.</p> - -<p>No less remarkable is their ingenious method of crossing torrents and -other minor streams which they often encounter in their ceaseless -perambulations through the forest. As among men, all cannot swim with -equal facility, so it is also with monkeys; accordingly the leaders of -the troop, generally the strongest of the party, climb to the spreading -branches of some tree projecting over the stream; one of them then -twists his tail firmly around a branch, and letting his body hang, -seizes upon the tail of the nearest comrade, who in his turn performs -the same operation with the next, and so on until a sort of chain or -living pendulum is formed, which in obedience to the laws of equilibrium -oscillates slowly but constantly from their combined efforts to reach -the opposite bank. This finally achieved, the last monkey secures -himself to the most convenient tree. The others of the chain, now -disengaged from the tree at the opposite side of the stream, wade -through the water, each helped by his neighbor, assisted likewise by the -current. Some are, however, occasionally drowned, the last one in the -chain especially, which circumstance has probably given rise to the -popular proverb, <i>el último mono siempre se ahoga</i>—the last monkey is -sure to be drowned. Sagacious as these animals undoubtedly are, it is -often very easy to entrap them. One of the simplest methods consists in -cutting a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span> number of holes in a gourd barely large enough to admit of -squeezing in the monkey’s hands. The gourd thus prepared is filled with -corn and secured to the trunk of a tree, then shaken violently for a -time so as to attract the attention of the monkeys, and a few grains of -corn scattered in the neighborhood of the trap. The gourd is in fact the -dinner bell of the monkeys, which no sooner hear the well known sound, -than they descend in great numbers from their aerial homes, and each in -turn seizing the gourd, grasps through one of the holes a handful of -corn. ‘But in vain do they struggle to withdraw their hands without -relinquishing the prize; and at this critical moment, the concealed -author of their mishap suddenly makes his appearance, and tying their -hands carries them off to his cottage in the woods.</p> - -<p>More taciturn and retiring in his habits than the preceding, the -<i>araguato</i>—a large reddish monkey of the ring-tail genus—exhibits none -of those mischievous tricks which characterize the former, never -approaching the haunts of man nor ravaging the fields of the industrious -farmer. His only food consists of wild fruits, gathered as, with -astonishing rapidity, he springs from branch to branch. All the limbs of -this great monkey are admirably adapted to his roving habits; in these -he is assisted very materially by his long prehensile tail, which acts -the part of a fifth hand.</p> - -<p>The roar of the <i>araguato</i> is so extraordinary, that persons who hear it -for the first time invariably imagine it that of the jaguar. I think I -may assert without fear of mistake, that it can be heard at the -distance<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span> of three miles, especially in damp and cloudy weather. “This -most striking of all animal voices is heard occasionally at sunrise and -sunset, and sometimes in the heat of the day, but more frequently during -the darkness of night. When near, the roar is terrific; a naturalist has -compared it to the tempest howling through rocky caverns. It is a voice -so unearthly that, heard unexpectedly for the first time, it would fill -the mind with the most melancholy forebodings.”<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a></p> - -<p>“The Indians pretend,” observes Humboldt, that when the <i>araguatos</i> fill -the forest with their howlings, there is always one that chants as -leader to the chorus. The observation is pretty accurate. During a long -interval one solitary and strong voice is generally distinguished, till -its place is taken by another voice of a different pitch. We may observe -from time to time the same instinct of imitation among frogs, and almost -all animals which live together and exert their voices in union. The -missionaries further assert that when a female among the <i>araguatos</i> is -on the point of bringing forth, the choir suspends its howlings till the -moment of the birth of the young. I could not myself judge of the -accuracy of this assertion; but I do not believe it to be entirely -unfounded. I have observed that when an extraordinary incident—the -moans, for instance, of a wounded <i>araguato</i>—fixed the attention of the -band, the howlings were for some minutes suspended.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span> The face of this -singular monkey is nearly concealed by a sandy, bushy beard, extending -below and projecting considerably beyond his chin, giving him a very -dignified appearance. So striking is their resemblance to the human -species, that once, after having shot one, I almost felt as though I had -committed a murder. When I raised the poor creature from the ground upon -which he had fallen, his large grey eyes were bathed in tears, and every -feature expressed the deepest agony. Casting upon me a most eloquent -look of reproach, he endeavored to push me aside; but too much enfeebled -by his wound, lay down and calmly resigned himself to the scrutinizing -gaze of my English companions, who discussed and disputed about the -division of his still panting body—one wanting the skin for a smoking -cap and the drum of the throat for the bowl of his pipe, while the other -would be contented with nothing less than the whole carcass. For my own -part, I only desired to get out of sight of the dying creature; and -shouldering my gun, departed in a mood which determined me never again -to lift my hand against these innocent wild men of the woods.</p> - -<p>South America may be said to be, <i>par excellence</i>, the home of the -monkey tribe. Besides the foregoing, the great forest south of the -pampas of Apure is filled with the cries, yells, and roarings by night -and day—for some are nocturnal and others diurnal—of countless troops -of the various families of these quadrumana, roaming through it, from -the mysterious <i>Salvaje</i> (supposed by many to be a great and powerful -monkey, who, Gorilla-like, seizes upon defenceless<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span> women and carries -them off to some inaccessible tree in the forest), down to the tiny -marmoset, not larger than a flying-squirrel, but all possessing more or -less that degree of intelligence and cunning so nearly akin to human -instinct. Some are white-faced, with the rest of the body black; others -black-faced, forming a curious contrast with a thick head of hair -perfectly white. Bates observed on the Upper Amazon a very rare species -with a scarlet face, making the animal look pretty much like an Indian -bedaubed with arnatto,<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> as is the practice of the aborigines in a -wild state. Some have blue noses; others a dark ring around the eyes, -giving the creature a most ludicrous appearance, as if adorned with a -pair of spectacles.</p> - -<p>In the same region is found another curious genus of monkeys, namely, -the <i>owl-faced night apes</i>, described by Bates and Humboldt as being of -small size, the body about a foot long and the tail fourteen inches, and -are thickly clothed with soft, grey, and brown hair, similar in -substance to that of the rabbit. They sleep all day long in hollow -trees, and come forth to prey on insects, and eat fruits, only in the -night. Their physiognomy reminds one of an owl, or tiger-cat; the face -is round and encircled by a ruff of whitish fur. Bates had one of these -animals given him by a <i>compadre</i>, as a present from his newly-baptized -godson, and he describes it as being a great favorite with every one, -from the cleanliness of its habits and the prettiness of its features -and ways;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span> and the Municipal Judge of Ega, Don Carlos Mariana, had -another species of the same genus, which was most amusingly tame, -delighting to be caressed by all persons who came into the house, and at -night sleeping with his master in his own hammock, and nestling in his -bosom half the day as he lay reading.</p> - -<p>A very striking feature of most South American monkeys is the strong -resemblance they bear to the Indian race, just as those of Africa -resemble the negro, and those of the Indian Archipelago the Malay race -of men. Some of them look so much like Indians, that one cannot help -imagining there exists a near relationship between these dwellers of the -forest. The <i>capuchin</i> of the Orinoco, which Waterton has made so -celebrated, under the vague appellation of <i>nondescript</i>, and the <i>tití</i> -of the same locality, may be mentioned as exceptions to the rule, the -former on account of a long, bushy beard, and soft, glossy black head of -hair, nicely parted in the middle, like a refined exquisite, and the -latter with its finely-modelled head and most expressive features, which -added to a high degree of intelligence and sprightly restlessness -possessed by the little creature, make it a favorite pet, with ladies -especially, when reduced to domestic life. The <i>tití</i> is a medium-sized -monkey, with hair of a golden yellow; and what adds to its attraction as -a pet, is its cleanly habits, so unlike those of its congeners, washing -its hands whenever it comes near water, which makes them look at all -times like those of a well-nursed child. But, woe to the elegantly -furnished boudoir, if it should contrive to get loose,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a>{270}</span> which it often -does in spite of precautions, for it will prove a perfect <i>enfant -terrible</i> amongst the choicest trinkets of feminine adornment, smashing -everything within its reach, and examining into every nook and corner of -the wardrobe with perfect infantile curiosity. On the other hand, it -will completely rid the house of spiders and other like vermin, for -which tropical climates are famous, not even sparing the favorite -songster in its cage, for it is quite omnivorous in its tastes. Humboldt -relates of one he kept in his canoe, during his tedious exploration of -these rivers, that it would take particular pleasure in looking over the -plates of a work on Natural History, which the great philosopher used to -turn over occasionally for his own and his pet’s amusement; sitting -itself on the lap of its master, it would look intently on the figures -of the various animals with as much interest as a child would evince, -under like circumstances, but without betraying any especial emotion, -until it came to the plate representing the insects. Although the -engravings were not colored, the <i>tití</i> would now advance its little -hand in the hope of catching a spider, a grasshopper, or a wasp, -whenever it perceived one of these insects, of which it is particularly -fond. It remained perfectly indifferent when it was shown engravings of -skeletons or heads of mammiferous animals. “No other monkey,” adds -Humboldt, “has so much the physiognomy of a child as the <i>tití</i>; there -is the same expression of innocence, the same playful smile, the same -rapidity in the transition from joy to sorrow. Its large, handsome eyes -are instantly filled with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a>{271}</span> tears when it is seized with fear.” Even in -the wild state, the <i>tití</i> evinces a degree of cunning seldom found in -others of its class. An instance of this is shown in the manner in which -it robs the bee colony not only of its rich stores of sweet honey, but -also of its industrious tenants; stationing itself at the mouth of the -beehive—usually in the hollow branch of some tree in the forest—the -<i>tití</i> catches and eats up every member of the busy colony as they go in -and out on their laborious errands. When no more insects can be -obtained, and knowing instinctively that within that mysterious abode is -to be found something sweeter still, the little imp diligently commences -to dig into the aperture until a passage wide enough for the hand is -made, and then commences the work of destruction upon grubs and -honey-combs. Should these be placed too far down the opening to be -reached with the hand, the <i>tití</i> introduces its tail—which is -considerably longer than its arms—into the deposit of honey, and -withdrawing it, well bedaubed with the coveted prize, commences to enjoy -it with great gusto.</p> - -<p>Isidore Geoffrey St. Hilaire relates of another individual of this -genus, that “it distinguished between different objects depicted on an -engraving. M. Audouin showed it the portraits of a cat and a wasp; at -these it became very much terrified; whereas, at the sight of a figure -of a grasshopper or beetle, it precipitated itself on the picture, as if -to seize the objects there represented.”</p> - -<p>Bates mentions another rare species of the same genus, first described -by Humboldt, which was, if possible,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a>{272}</span> more playful and intelligent than -any of the preceding. “This rare and beautiful little monkey is only -seven inches in length, exclusive of the tail. It is named <i>leoninus</i>, -on account of the long brown mane which depends from the neck, and which -gives it very much the appearance of a diminutive lion. In the house -where it was kept it was familiar with every one; its greatest pleasure -seemed to be to climb about the bodies of different persons who entered. -The first time I went in, it ran across the room straight-way to the -chair on which I had sat down, and climbed up to my shoulder; arrived -there, it turned round and looked into my face, showing its little -teeth, and chattering as though it would say, ‘Well, and how do <i>you</i> -do?’ It showed more affection toward its master than toward strangers, -and would climb up to his head a dozen times in the course of an hour, -making a great show every time of searching there for certain -animalcula.”</p> - -<p>The same writer describes the ingenious mode of obtaining live -specimens, as practised by Indian hunters. “The mother, as in other -species of the monkey order, carries her young on her back. Individuals -are obtained alive by shooting them with the blow-pipe and arrows tipped -with diluted urarí poison. They run a considerable distance after being -pierced, and it requires an experienced hunter to track them. He is -considered the most expert who can keep pace with a wounded one, and -catch it in his arms when it falls exhausted. A pinch of salt, the -antidote to the poison, is then put in its mouth, and the creature -revives.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a>{273}</span></p> - -<p>As I write this in the quiet seclusion of the country, I hear among the -trees surrounding one of the finest mansions in Connecticut, the -twittering chatter of another little monkey, or marmoset, a <i>tití</i> of -the coast of Cartagena, which I procured from hence not long ago. It is -quite small, of a reddish-brown color, with a face resembling more an -African negro (for it is jet black) than the aborigines of the opposite -coast. A thick woolly coat of white hair covers its head, so that at a -distance the little creature looks as if ornamented with a cap of -snow-white feathers. Enjoying with myself the freedom of the hospitable -mansion, it is allowed to roam at pleasure among the branches of the -trees, but as the sun goes down, it invariably seeks the comforts of its -bed, prepared by its kind mistress, inside a market-basket in her own -room. Monito—this is its name—is an early riser, which makes it rather -inconvenient for the other inmates of the room; for, although the -windows are left open through the night, it will not stir until its -breakfast has been placed before the little scamp, who, in the meantime, -keeps such squealing and twittering as to rouse “Nini” and her mamma. -Its hunger satisfied, it bounds away to the tree-tops, leaping from -branch to branch with astonishing agility, which never fails to attract -a crowd of squirrels, which, mistaking it for one of their tribe, run -towards the stranger; but no sooner do they perceive the jetty phyz and -snowy locks of Don Monito, than, with one yell of astonishment, and the -utmost horror depicted in their countenance, they scamper off to a -respectable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>{274}</span> distance. Then follows a sort of inquiring colloquy between -both parties, all chatting at the same time, and making the air resound -all the while with the chirping palaver. It does not get beyond this, -however, for, at the first advance made on either side, one of the -parties, or both, scamper off ingloriously, thus verifying the saying—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“He who fights and runs away<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Lives to fight another day.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Not satisfied with the abundant fare of spiders caught around the roof, -Monito comes regularly to the house at certain hours, to be fed on more -dainty food, consisting of bits of sugar, cake, and delicious grapes, -fresh from the grapery, which the thoughtful ladies of the mansion have -in readiness for their guest. At times it pays a visit to the laundress, -at her establishment, for whom it has evinced a strong attachment, -owing, I suspect, to the fact that said dame invariably treats the -favorite to a good slice of bread and butter, of which it seems to be -very fond also. Selecting a comfortable place in some corner of the -room, it spends an hour or so chatting to the worthy laundress all the -while in a language only intelligible to itself. I fear, however, that -the country air of a northern climate does not quite agree with the -little South-American, for it has been observed, at times, in the -morning, shaking from head to foot, and seeking some convenient place on -the roof of the piazza, where it can have the full benefit of the sun’s -rays, a sure sign of a coming attack of chills and fever.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a>{275}</span> This -circumstance, and the fact of its having become more irritable and -morose than usual, has induced me to procure, from a friend in town, -another small monkey, in whose company it came from South America, -although of a different species, to see if the presence of its former -associate will restore its spirits; but to no purpose, for, after a fair -trial, we find that the attentions of this last, which is a most -restless and mischievous creature, pulling the invalid’s tail and -silvery tufts of hair, whenever they are brought together, instead of -proving a comfort to Monito, throws it into violent fits.</p> - -<p>The monkey in question is the <i>cari-blanco</i>, white-faced, of the River -Sinu, a higher grade of ape than the marmosets, and is, in consequence, -one of the most intelligent individuals of the family. It is really -entertaining to see such a small creature aping childhood so well as to -amuse itself and the rest of the family whose hospitality it enjoys, -with a doll and some marbles which it stole from the baby; and one of -the ladies having shown it a musical toy, which she blew to attract its -notice, the mimicking creature at once snatched the toy from her hand, -and immediately applied it to its mouth, endeavoring to produce the same -sounds, although without effect; whereupon it tried a like experiment on -the doll—which it carries constantly under its arm—but with no better -results. Another source of amusement is derived from a kitten belonging -to the baby, the sight of which produced at first as much astonishment -and curiosity as the interview between Monito and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a>{276}</span> squirrels brought -about. Now they are as good friends as if they had known each other a -lifetime; so much so that the baby finds it difficult to separate her -pussy from the dreaded monkey, which “Nini” abominates ever since Monito -bit her badly, for want of experience on her part in dealing with these -spiteful creatures.</p> - -<p>It is a fact worthy of notice, that most monkeys, especially those of a -higher grade, manifest on all occasions a strong attachment to young -animals, especially puppies and kittens, caressing and handling them -with the same care that a human being bestows on the young of their own -kind. I once obtained, in Costa Rica, a large female monkey of the -ring-tail species, which, in intelligence and <i>monerias</i> (monkey tricks) -surpassed any creature of this description I have yet seen or heard of; -so much so that Herr Müller, a German baker of San José, who owned the -pet, had given her the name of “Panchita,” or Little Frances; and so -captivated was I too by Miss Panchita, that I at once entered into -negotiations with the baker for her purchase. But of this more hereafter -in the <i>Second Series</i> of these sketches.</p> - -<p>Well, said Panchita was, like the rest of her class, particularly fond -of puppies; but not possessing sufficient discrimination to distinguish -between the ages of animals, and judging of this only through their -size, she seized, on one occasion, a small poodle, which happened to -pass near her, mistaking it for a puppy, and pressing it to her breast -with appropriate demonstrations of motherly solicitude, endeavored to -induce<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a>{277}</span> the dog to avail itself of the proffered donation; but a bite -from the ungrateful chap warned the would-be nurse of the dangers -arising from too close an intimacy with strangers. Poor Panchita! Having -brought her along with me to New York, and placed her in Barnum’s -celebrated boarding-school for dumb beasts from all parts of the world, -she shared the fate of the “Happy Family” during the disastrous fire -which consumed that renowned establishment.</p> - -<p>As an instance of the affection and intelligence displayed by these -singular creatures, I will mention here another South American monkey, -from the Upper Amazon river, of which the indefatigable collector of -natural history, Mr. Bates, says, alluding to one possessed by a -neighbor of his at Ega: “My friend was a tailor, and the little pet used -to spend the greater part of the day seated on his shoulder, while he -was at work on his board. It showed, nevertheless, great dislike to -strangers, and was not on good terms with any other member of my -friend’s household than himself, I saw no monkey that showed so strong a -personal attachment as this gentle, timid, silent little creature. The -eager and passionate Cebi seem to take the lead of all South American -monkeys in intelligence and docility, and the Coaitá has perhaps the -most gentle and impressive disposition; but the Parauacú, although a -dull, cheerless animal, excels all in this quality of capacity of -attachment to individuals of our own species. It is not wanting in -intelligence as well as moral goodness, proof of which was furnished one -day by an act of our little pet. My<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>{278}</span> neighbor had quitted his house in -the morning, without taking Parauacú with him, and the little creature -having missed its friend, and concluded, as it seemed, that he would be -sure to come to me, both being in the habit of paying me a daily visit -together, came straight to my dwelling, taking a short cut over gardens, -trees, and thickets, instead of going the roundabout way of the street. -It had never done this before, and we knew the route it had taken only -from a neighbor having watched its movements. On arriving at my house, -and not finding its master, it climbed to the top of my table, and sat -with an air of quiet resignation waiting for him. Shortly afterwards my -friend entered, and the gladdened pet then jumped to its usual perch on -his shoulder.”</p> - -<p>I will conclude this chapter—already, I fear, too long—with some -further remarks respecting the <i>Salvaje</i>, or “Wild Man of America,” as -it is called by those who, to this day, believe that such -<i>nondescript</i>—for no one seems to have ever seen it, except the -footprints—exists in the wilds of Venezuela. Both Father Gumilla and -Humboldt allude to the belief entertained by the people of those regions -in the existence of a great anthropoid ape, which was reputed to build -huts, carry off women, and devour jealous husbands. It is curious, -however, to see how these two great expounders of nature’s wonders -endeavor to solve the mystery. While the philosopher of the nineteenth -century explains the “fable,” as he calls it, by suggesting the -existence in these wilds of “one of those large bears, the footprints of -which resemble those of man, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>{279}</span> which are believed to carry off -women,” the devout philosopher of nearly two centuries ago boldly -ascribes the doings of the dreaded creature to no other individual than -the Devil himself, ever anxious to do all possible mischief among -Christians, especially those of the newly-organized missions of the -Upper Orinoco and Meta rivers; in proof of this the good missionary -father tells us that, “On one occasion, the infernal voice was -distinctly heard by Capt. Don Domingo Zorrilla, a native of Rioja, in -Spain, exhorting, from the top of a palm tree, the Gentile Indians, who -were ready to come out of the forest and become good Christians, not to -do it.” And, adds the credulous historian: “Alarmed with this terrific -noise, the valiant captain inquired of the Christian cacique who -accompanied him, from whence proceeded those frightful sounds? to which -the cacique replied, that these were the utterances of the Devil, which -the captain believed to be true, so great was the internal horror which -he felt; and I too believed it, by the faith I had in the great veracity -of said captain, and other unmistakable proofs I perceived afterwards at -the distance of only two leagues from the river Ubocá, all of which -happened on the 23d of February, 1716.”</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the strong faith entertained by the narrator on the -“great veracity of the valiant captain,” I am of opinion that the roar -of a well-organized band of <i>araguatos</i> was mistaken on this occasion -for the utterances of his Infernal Majesty.</p> - -<p>Still, the story of the <i>Salvaje</i> is not altogether discredited, even by -scientific men of high standing;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a>{280}</span> among the latter I may mention the -accomplished author of the “Romance of Natural History,” who not only -questions the authority of Humboldt in denying the existence of a great -anthropomorphous monkey in America, but boldly comes in support of those -who believe in this possible phenomena. I quote his words: “But it might -be permitted, in return, to ask what “large bear” is known to inhabit -Venezuela; and whether it is true that bears’ footsteps have a signal -resemblance to those of men; and that bears especially attack women. Is -not such a bear in South America quite as gratuitous as the monkey -himself? And, since species of <i>quadrumana</i> are characteristic of the -forests of that region, may it not be possible that some one rivalling -man in stature and strength, may there exist, as well as in Africa and -the Oriental Archipelago? The mighty gorilla himself has only just been -introduced to us.”<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p> - -<p><a name="ill_24" id="ill_24"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b280b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b280b_sml.jpg" width="544" height="303" alt="Image unavailable: AMONG THE CROCODILES." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">AMONG THE CROCODILES.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>{281}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">AMONG THE CROCODILES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> by this time completed our arrangements at Mata Totumo, we broke -up our camp on the 15th of March and departed for Los Laureles, the -ancient site of another cattle farm, now quite deserted, on the banks of -the river Matiyure.</p> - -<p>We found the house in ruins, and only a few remaining posts marking the -boundary of the former corrals. The first duty, therefore, was that of -repairing the fences, an operation which necessitated several days’ hard -labor. Meanwhile I found much enjoyment in exploring the woody banks of -the river, the wildness of whose aspect had for me a peculiar charm. -They were my daily resort, where, encompassed by the glorious solitude, -I essayed to picture for others those lovely scenes which still perfume -the shrine of memory in all their dewy freshness. To one who loves “the -cool sequestered haunts of Nature,” no spot could be more charming, -nothing more inspiring than to recline under the venerable shade of some -wide-branched guamo uplooking to the many-tinted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a>{282}</span> clouds as they sweep -in solemn majesty beneath the blue veil of heaven, and seem to melt into -the tree tops in the distance—trees whose gigantic height and size, -wall with magnificent vegetation the steep banks rising on either side -of the river, mirrored in its tranquil surface. The harsh scream of the -heron, or the ominous hootings of the tiger-owl, alone wake the echoes -where else</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“All things are calm, and fair, and passive—Earth<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Looks as if lulled upon an angel’s lap<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Into a breathless, dewy sleep.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Yet is this beautiful river celebrated for the number and size of its -crocodiles. As I sat sketching on the banks, I could perceive them -gliding slowly under the still waters, the upper part of the head alone -visible, and seeming to watch me with an evil eye. The beach being -strewn with their egg shells, I concluded this to be a favorite resort -with them during the breeding season. The female lays about forty eggs -in a hole which she digs in the sand, leaving to the hot sun the care of -hatching them. These eggs, twice as large as those of the turkey, are -considered a great delicacy by the Indians and jaguars, who frequently -purloin them before they are hatched.</p> - -<p>The <i>caricari</i> is another great enemy of young crocodiles, attacking -them as they come out of the shell. After they betake themselves to the -water, the older ones, prompted no doubt by motives of family pride to -keep them within their own circle, swallow these tender members, thus -preventing all other intimacies. Notwithstanding this admirable -provision of Divine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a>{283}</span> Wisdom, and a constant war maintained by man and -beast against them, they are so numerous in some charcos of the river -that, if stationary, their bodies would completely bridge its surface -from bank to bank.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_25" id="ill_25"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b283_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b283_sml.jpg" width="186" height="153" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p>Despite their great voracity, the mother exhibits some degree of -tenderness toward her offspring. Possessed, in this case, of an instinct -almost infallible, she returns at a period when incubation is completed, -and assists her young in extricating themselves from the shell. Unlike -the eggs of birds, crocodiles’ eggs are soft and pliable as those of the -turtle, yielding, when handled, to the pressure of the fingers, yet so -tough, that it is difficult to break them, and in appearance resembling -white parchment. At the very moment of liberation, the young crocodiles -display their savage nature in a wonderful degree, biting at every -object within reach; also the same vicious propensity is exhibited by -those extricated even before the completion of incubation. I was once -greatly amused in watching a struggle between two caricaris<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a>{284}</span> and one of -these youngsters not larger than a good-sized lizard. Each time the -birds made a dash at him, this little saurian, grunting savagely, darted -forward with wide-open jaws, looking for all the world like a young -dragon. During ten minutes the struggle continued without decided -advantage on either side, when one of the assailants, changing his -tactics, suddenly seized the crocodile by the neck with his sharp claws -and soared triumphantly with him into high air. There loosing his hold, -the bird followed his descent with wonderful rapidity, prepared, when he -reached the ground, to repeat the blow; but already half stunned, the -victim soon yielded to superior cunning.</p> - -<p>When the savannas are overflowed by the swollen rivers, these -carnivorous and malicious reptiles spread themselves over the face of -the country, committing great havoc among young animals. So destructive -had they proved to the calves and foals on this estate, that the owner -on one occasion offered a reward of half a dollar a head for every -crocodile killed upon his lands, it being sufficient for the claimant to -produce, in evidence of success, the two great tusks of the upper jaws. -The result of this <i>ukase</i> was, that before the expiration of a month, -more than four hundred crocodiles had been destroyed; yet no sensible -diminution was observable, neither did the persevering dragonade against -them quench in the least their boldness. This expedient proving useless, -they had been suffered to remain unmolested until our arrival at Los -Laureles, when we determined to exterminate those at least which -infested that pass of the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a>{285}</span> where we performed our daily ablutions -and watered the horses. Accordingly, one day a party of us, well -provided with every necessary, started for a bend of the river where the -water appeared to be very still and deep. None of the usual angling -implements were required in this sport; we used only a strong lazo and a -hoop about three feet in diameter made from a light vine common on the -banks of these rivers. Around this hoop the fresh lungs of a bullock, -cut into thin strips, were twisted and securely fastened. The running -noose of the lazo was then laid over the bait and tied there with -tendrils from the same vine. All being ready, this simple decoy was -launched into the middle of the stream, we retaining on shore the other -end of the lazo. Aroused by the splash, two large crocodiles soon -appeared and rushed for the bait with open jaws. The successful one, in -his eagerness to escape with his prize, burst the slender vines that -secured the noose to the hoop, which last projected beyond his snout, -and the noose on its recoil sliding over, firmly lazoed his upper jaw. -With shouts of exultation we hastened to the assistance of the man who -held the lazo, seeing him unable to cope with the monster, more than a -match for half a dozen men. By our united efforts we finally succeeded -in dragging him to within a few feet of the embankment, when, catching -sight of our earnest faces watching him over the cliff, he tossed up his -head with such sudden violence as to pull the thong through our hands to -its full length, and retreated in triumph to the middle of the stream. -The tough hide, however, from which the thong was twisted,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a>{286}</span> proved equal -to the emergency, and with one more strenuous effort we succeeded in -landing him upon the beach, while</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Le flot qui l’apporta, recule épouvanté.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Some of us who never before had so near a view of these vicious -creatures, were astonished at its size and strength, and our Esculapius, -assuming an appearance of bravery, approached among the first to -contemplate the vanquished foe, but evidently quaking with apprehension -of the huge tusks before him. His terror at length proving stronger than -the dread of his companions’ gibes, he seized the lazo, tugging with -such desperate energy to close the fearful chasm that the thong slipped -from his hands, he lost his balance, and the next moment found himself -lying almost within reach of the still open jaws. From these, -notwithstanding a considerable corporeal impediment, he escaped by -springing with the agility of a cat up the embankment, where he -remained, perhaps to ascertain whether the poet’s statement that -“distance lends enchantment to the view,” was correct by the crocodile -case before him. At length the object of his regards almost ceased -struggling, sure sign that his strength was failing; then with one more -pull we hauled him partially out of water, but no power could force him -entirely therefrom, as each time on reaching the bank he braced his fore -feet with unconquerable strength against it, so forcing himself back -into the stream. In this predicament we had no other resource than to -despatch him, and two or three sharp blows of a hatchet administered by -the roguish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>{287}</span> Roseliano, severed the upper jaw, with its beautiful row of -teeth, from the head, a surgical operation performed under the -supervision of our eminent Esculapius. The patient expired—no doubt to -the Doctor’s relief—not on his hands, and the “subject” was abandoned -to the myriads of caribes which, although their teeth could produce -little impression upon his tough cuirass, feasted with avidity on his -blood so long as it flowed from his mutilated head.</p> - -<p>We prepared a large supply of bait in like manner to the former, all of -which was seized by the hungry crocodiles with the same fatal results to -them. In the short space of three hours we succeeded in killing six -large ones, and could no doubt have destroyed a greater number, had not -the lazo been gnawed through by caribes, that pest of all rivers in this -region.</p> - -<p>The Indians of the Orinoco river, where the crocodiles are said to be -still larger and more savage, if possible, than those of its tributary -streams, make use of other devices for ridding themselves of those at -least that infest the places frequented by them. One of these -contrivances is as novel as most of the productions of their fertile -imaginations are for ministering to their wants, and consists in -shooting at the monsters’ eyes arrows tipped with a wild cane said to be -very poisonous to crocodiles, so much so that a few minutes after they -are seen floating on the water quite dead. Another device, equally -effective, consists in securing a strong rope, or lazo, to the middle of -a short but stout stick of hard wood, which is then covered up with a -large fish or piece of meat, and thrown in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a>{288}</span> water: not many minutes -elapse before the crocodile seizes and swallows the bait, stake and all, -when it is quickly hauled on shore by means of the lazo in the hands of -the Indians.</p> - -<p>By way of sport, these people avail themselves of the same artifice to -<i>torear</i>, as they call it, a crocodile on shore when sunning itself, but -this time without the bait, as the man alone is sufficient allurement to -rouse the monster’s appetite, especially if it is a man-eater -(<i>cebado</i>), the only improvement made on the stake being that of -sharpening both ends of it. The Indian now seizes the stick by the -middle, and fearlessly approaches the crocodile, which at once makes a -dash at its antagonist with its jaws wide open; but the <i>toreador</i> -easily evades the onset by stepping aside a little, as the reptile, on -account of the configuration of its spine, cannot turn round upon him, -except after describing a long circle; a second and a third onset are -equally unsuccessful, as the sportsman purposely avoids the collision by -moving off when the animal comes up close to him. Having by this time -proved his dexterity the Indian gives it the <i>coup de grace</i> by plunging -the stick in a vertical position into the ghastly jaws of the fierce -monster, which, feeling confident of crushing its enemy this time -between its powerful tusks, shuts them with a crash which only assists -in forcing both ends of the stake into the upper and lower jaws; thus -transfixed, the once terror of the river now becomes the sport of the -Indian boys, who eagerly seize upon the thong, and ignominiously drag -the reptile powerless over the sand.</p> - -<p>Our men secured a large supply of fat from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a>{289}</span> intestinal membrane of -the crocodiles: a sovereign remedy for bruises and cutaneous diseases -among horses. By exposing this fat to the sun, in horns slightly -punctured at the end, a fine oil equal to that of the whale, is obtained -by percolation and collected in basins placed under the horns.</p> - -<p>Selecting the jaws of the dead crocodiles containing the finest tusks, -we distributed the latter among our friends for tinder boxes and -amulets. It is universally believed throughout the Llanos that the -tusks, when worn next the flesh of man or beast, will preserve the -wearer from the poison of snakes, especially if obtained on Good Friday. -For this reason the smaller ones, set in gold or silver, are worn -suspended from the rosaries which form one of the principal ornaments of -the people in those parts. It is further believed that rings made of the -same material will apprise the wearer, of poison mixed in any draught by -causing an instantaneous effervescence of the liquid. The supposed -efficacy of these potential talismans was once peculiarly tested in our -own camp.</p> - -<p>Among the few luxuries carried by our commissariat into the Llanos was a -basket of champagne, which was reserved for state occasions. One -afternoon, while almost every person was enjoying his siesta, the -temptation seized one of our men to search for aguardiente among the -<i>petacas</i>. His good fortune discovered to him our little treasure of -champagne, and grabbing a bottle he at once commenced cutting with his -dagger the wires that secured the cork. Up this flew at last with a loud -report, which broke the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>{290}</span> dead silence of the camp and started to their -feet more than one drowsy slumberer.</p> - -<p>Our thief, seeing the profuse effervescence gushing out with great -force, endeavored at first to arrest it by clapping his hands over the -mouth of the bottle; but suddenly recollecting that he had on one of -those mysterious tusk-rings, the suspicion flashed to his mind of poison -intended for <i>el amo</i>, the master; and when in addition to this the -bewildered knave perceived that apparently the more he endeavored to -confine the liquid, so much more it frothed and bubbled, he was -overpowered with terror, shrieking out in an ecstasy of horror, “Ave -Maria Purisima! Help! Help! <i>cristianos</i>; this aguardiente must be -poisoned, or else the devil is in it.”</p> - -<p>On hearing these cries, every one sprang from his hammock, imagining the -camp attacked by a band of <i>malhechores</i>, and the would-be thief was -thus caught in the very act.</p> - -<p>As he was, however, out of his wits with fright, he escaped with only a -mild reprimand, the more especially that we enjoyed several hearty -laughs at his expense. Futile were our efforts at convincing the -frightened fellow that champagne was very good drink; he evidently -distrusted all our assertions. Some was then poured out and drank, and -the bottle passed round; but when it came to his turn, he persistently -refused to touch it. On being asked whether his surprise and repugnance -arose from seeing the liquid rushing out of the bottle, his reply was, -“Oh, no, <i>Señores</i>; I am not surprised to see it coming out, but how the -devil did it get in?”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>{291}</span></p> - -<p>With the intention of finishing a sketch of one of the crocodiles, I -next day revisited the battle field, and to my surprise discovered the -absence of one of the dead bodies; but presently perceived the mailed -carcass floating at some distance on the water. I was for some time at a -loss to discover what had occasioned his change of position, and I -finally concluded that its comrades must have given him honorable -interment in the deep. Desiring to ascertain, if possible, the facts of -the case, I determined to conceal myself near by and keep close watch. I -had been in hiding only a few moments when at least half a dozen -crocodiles approached the deceased, not, as I had imagined, to mourn his -loss, but to feast upon the many fish in their turn gorging themselves -upon the body. Then, almost to my horror, I beheld these monster -insatiates rend in pieces and devour the melancholy remains of the dear -defunct with grunts of revolting satisfaction. Nor did I perceive in -this case any of those “crocodile tears” with which travellers tell us -it is their hypocritical habit to bedew the head of a human victim. It -is said that when they have devoured a man, finding themselves unable to -swallow his head, they convey it to some secluded spot on the river -banks, there to weep over and bewail their inability with cries which -make night hideous.</p> - -<p>The size and appearance of crocodiles must be sometimes most -extraordinary, if we may credit our adventurous friend B., who boasted -so intimate an acquaintance with their habits, that one could easily -imagine such familiarity might breed contempt. Judge, O reader, if I -speak not truly.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a>{292}</span></p> - -<p>He related that one day, having labored successfully until noon in his -piscatory pursuit, overcome by fatigue and the intense heat of a -tropical sun, he turned his longing eyes toward shore in search of some -friendly shelter; but perceiving that, between him and the only copse of -trees which relieved the glaring scene, there stretched a dreary waste -of burning sand, he had not courage to traverse, even to reach so -tempting a goal—he sought a refuge more accessible. This to his great -joy he just then discovered in the form of what appeared to be the wreck -of an old canoe thrown on its side near the water’s edge. Here was a -cool retreat wherein to enjoy his siesta; so hastening toward it, his -satisfaction was complete on finding it sufficiently capacious to admit -of slinging to the protruding ribs his <i>chinchorro</i>, or grass hammock, -which, with his guitar and gourd of aguardiente, were his inseparable -companions. Refreshing himself with a good pull at the gourd, and -stretching himself in his hammock, he soon slept the profound sleep of -the weary. He awoke to find himself enveloped in a darkness which he -might have supposed that of midnight, but that it was unrelieved by moon -or friendly star. Completely bewildered, he sought a clew to this dark -mystery by moving forward with cautious steps and extended hands, -uncertain into what horror his next movement might betray him, when his -surprised attention was attracted, first to the spongy nature of the -ground, then to the clammy yet warm and sticky walls that on all sides -encountered his extended fingers. The discovery of these facts was -accompanied by the very unpleasant</p> - -<p><a name="ill_26" id="ill_26"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b292a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b292a_sml.jpg" width="368" height="229" alt="Image unavailable: CROCODILE BASKING IN THE SUN." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CROCODILE BASKING IN THE SUN.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>{293}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">conviction that he had mistaken the open jaws of some sleeping crocodile -for an old bongo. However, with his recovery from the first shock of -surprise returned the stoicism so characteristic of his race, which was -the more entirely reinstated by finding his well-filled gourd with his -beloved guitar lying near. Notwithstanding, however, a reviving draught -from the former, he soon became conscious of a void in his internal -economy, which he at once determined to fill at Mr. Crocodile’s expense; -thereupon drawing his knife, he without the least compunction made a -meal from the tenderest morsels within reach. And so eating, drinking, -sleeping and tuning his diminutive guitar to the cheering strains of -some lively ballad of the Llanos, he remained for days, he knew not how -many, an uncomplaining prisoner within those slimy walls. At length, -while mournfully draining the last remaining drop within his faithful -gourd, his dungeon walls were suddenly made visible to him by a faint -ray of light which penetrated his very soul with the desire once more to -behold its source. Snatching at the dear companions of his imprisonment, -without another moment’s delay he rushed for the opening that admitted -the life-giving ray, and discovered to his delighted surprise that his -jailer, having deserted the water for a siesta upon the sands—which he -recollected was the occasional habit of these monsters—had left -wide-open his prison doors. These he lost no time in passing, seizing -with firm hand as he flew, his <i>chinchorro</i>, still suspended from the -crocodile’s tusks he had so almost fatally mistaken for the ribs of an -old canoe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a>{294}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE CIMARRONERA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had been apprised that between a great bend of the river -Matiyure—forming the southern boundary of our savannas—and an -extensive flat overgrown with thorny bushes, there existed what the -Llaneros call a <i>cimarronera</i>, or great hiding place for cattle, which, -owing to the impenetrable nature of the jungle, had from time immemorial -baffled the efforts of every majordomo who had hunted these savannas. -Further we had ascertained that the cattle were there as numerous as a -colony of ants; but so savage and shy, as to never venture from their -wild sanctuary. Thither our efforts were to be directed, not only on -account of the good harvest in store, but also for the purpose of -breaking up, if possible, that den of runaways which, if left -unmolested, might in time become a serious obstacle in the way of -reducing those wild herds to at least a partial submission.</p> - -<p>The corrals, which I trust the patient reader has not forgotten we were -in process of building, being now ready, we commenced preparations for a -descent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a>{295}</span> upon the fierce hordes of that neglected section. Messengers -were therefore despatched to the people of Caucagua, an adjacent cattle -farm, apprising them of our intention, and with the dawn of day more -than an hundred hunters were assembled on the spot. Among them were some -of the best <i>enlazadores</i> that the country could produce, all of whom, -like the valiant Pentapolin—chosen model of the hero of La Mancha—had -his right arm bared to the shoulder that the wide sleeve of the Llanero -shirt might not interfere with the management of the lazo.</p> - -<p>As soon as the sun was high enough to light us through the bushes, a -detachment of hunters penetrated the bristling maze of thorny acacias, -and succeeded in driving out into the open savannas so large a herd of -cattle that it soon swelled to a considerable <i>rodeo</i>. No sooner, -however, did they discover the presence of the hunters, than becoming -frantic they rushed from side to side like a band of furies, and, -heedless of the shouts and goads of the horsemen, broke at length -through the ring of even these experienced hunters, scattering again in -all directions. In vain did the fearless pursuers throw themselves -between the wild mass and the jungle; so rapid and entire was the -dispersion that the plain which but now swarmed with the driven, -bellowing, maddened creatures, was cleared as if by magic, leaving the -disappointed hunters in sole possession. Only here and there a faint -cloud of dust in the distance betrayed the course that some of the -fugitives had taken. The men, enraged at this unexpected discomfiture, -could not be restrained from again entering the tangled<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a>{296}</span> labyrinth and -dragging thence by sheer force a number of the refractory brutes. After -deliberation, it was decided that several of the hunters should scour -the plain in search of the runaways, while the larger number rushed -again fearlessly into the jungle. These at last succeeded in securing -several fierce bulls, each of which was treated <i>secundum artem</i>, -depriving them of the chance of doing much mischief in future; for no -sooner were they down, than the knife and the saw were busy with their -horns, ears, &c. But the business was not accomplished without the usual -average of casualties in these contests, and on that occasion one of our -best hands was greatly imperilled. A ferocious bull was undergoing the -usual precautionary, though severe measures, for his subjugation, when -one of the men standing near, accidentally became entangled in the coils -of the lazo at a moment when the bull, infuriated, escaped from those -who held him. The poor fellow, although thrown violently to the ground -and severely stunned, almost miraculously escaped further injury. The -daring Sarmiento, one of those who witnessed the transaction, enraged at -sight of his helpless companion, sprang from his horse, seized the -sheep-skin which covered the saddle, and holding it before himself, -fearlessly advanced sword in hand to meet the bull, which, not -comprehending the challenge, stood panting and trembling with rage -before his bold adversary. The matador perceiving this, approached him -more closely and shook the sheep-skin in the animal’s face; then, firm -as a rock, he stood and dauntlessly awaited the coming struggle; it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a>{297}</span> -enough; with head lowered to the ground, and lashing himself furiously -with his powerful tail, the bull rushed upon his antagonist with a -terrific roar, causing every heart to tremble for the safety of the bold -matador. Then we heard a heavy fall, a deep groan; we saw only a cloud -of dust that concealed the scene; but we knew the Llanero had conquered. -Triumphant shouts of approbation filled the air, whilst I knew not -whether most to applaud the fearless grace with which the man had stood -his ground before this, the most powerful of all infuriate creatures, or -the dexterous celerity that had found, and with one fatal blow -penetrated, the narrow passage through the vertebrae into the spinal -marrow. But the scene in that remote corner of the earth recalled -forcibly to my mind the spirited lines in which the author of Childe -Harold thus depicts one of like nature in the midst of refined Europe:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Foiled, bleeding, breathless, furious to the last,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Full in the centre stands the bull at bay<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Mid wounds and clinging darts and lances brast,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And foes disabled in the brutal fray:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And now the matadors around him play,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Shake the red cloak, and poise the ready brand:<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Once more through all he bursts his thundering way—<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Vain rage! the mantle quits the conynge hand,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Wraps his fierce eye—’tis past—he sinks upon the sand!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Those who had galloped off in search of the scattered herd finally -returned, bringing a large addition to the stock, and we were driving -them to the <i>paradero</i>, when our Leader’s horse, a fiery charger of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a>{298}</span> -Goagiro breed,<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> little accustomed to the broken ground of the pampas, -lost his footing and fell with him while endeavoring to clear an -extensive <i>terronero</i>. Fortunately his rider received no injury; but -loosing hold of the bridle in his fall, the horse was soon careering -over the plain, and would inevitably have made good his escape, had not -some vaqueros hunting in that direction encountered and captured him -after a long race. Accidents of the kind are very common in the Llanos, -and often in consequence many persons are killed or otherwise injured. -The least evil to which the ousted rider may be subjected, is that of -being left alone, perhaps with a dislocated limb, on an extensive plain, -where the unfortunate may perish from hunger or exposure before -assistance chances to reach him. Our friend B., who once found himself -similarly circumstanced, related to us on this occasion the adventure, -which he swore by all the saints in the calendar had actually occurred -to him. Notwithstanding such exalted referees, a few grains of doubt -still disturbed our belief.</p> - -<p>“He was once,” he said, “engaged in hunting with a party of vaqueros on -the extensive savannas of Merecure, which form the great cajon or pampa -between the rivers Cunaviche and Arauca. Having started in the morning -with a full complement of men, there was no difficulty in forming the -<i>rodeo</i>; but, as in our own case, all their manœuvres proved -ineffectual in keeping together so great a number of untamed brutes, -which finally broke through the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a>{299}</span> ranks as easily as might a herd of wild -hogs through a field of reeds, and vanished in the distance. So great -was the cloud of dust they raised, that when it cleared, B., whose horse -during the confusion had stumbled in the hole of a prairie-owl, thrown, -and then deserted him, found himself solus in the midst of the wide -pampa, and so bewildered and confused by the general stampede, that he -was totally unable to discover the least clew by which to guide his -steps over those trackless wilds. Overcome with the fatigue of his -useless search, he threw himself upon the ground, finally quite -disheartened by the recollection that he had no lazo by which he would -have been enabled at any time to secure sufficient animal food for his -subsistence. Two whole days he thus passed hopelessly wandering and in -search of food, when, upon the third, kind Providence, compassionating -his sufferings, placed in his way a fat calf, which he succeeded in -capturing after a short chase. Having slaughtered it, he roasted the -whole at once lest it might spoil, then ravenously devoured the welcome -repast. This supply lasted several days, when again finding himself -minus food, he determined to put in practice a stratagem that he had -devised whereby to secure for himself in future an unfailing supply of -wholesome nourishment. He had observed the mother of the calf, -apparently in search of her offspring, lingering in the neighborhood, -moaning and bellowing in a most piteous manner. Availing himself of the -first eligible opportunity, he approached her on all fours, entirely -covered with the skin of her own calf, and forthwith commenced drawing -sustenance<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a>{300}</span> from the maternal fount; this he accomplished with so much -natural ease and grace, that the tender mother, after a few incredulous -sniffs, felt convinced at last of his being a perfect calf, and -accepting him for her own, bestowed upon him a good licking. Thus -graciously encouraged, and each day more delighted with the unrestrained -freedom of his new life, time rolled on and a year elapsed without his -ever regretting the loss of home or friends; while so powerful was the -effect of this novel mode of existence upon his person, that it had -materially altered his whole appearance, and as the calf skin seemed to -have actually adhered to his own, so he found himself rapidly -assimilating, as well in tastes as habits, to that interesting -quadruped.”</p> - -<p>About this period the majordomo undertook another hunt on these plains, -where he quickly succeeded in collecting a large number of cattle; but -although they were all, as usual, extremely difficult to manage, still -there was one of the number, a young bull with a fine pair of horns -twelve inches long, more refractory and troublesome than any of the -others, which fact—as B. was the bull—was owing probably to his -educated instincts, they enabling him to devise a variety of expedients -for the discomfiture of his pursuers. However he was at length obliged -to yield to superior numbers, and the unerring lazo finally brought him -struggling to the ground, when in an instant one of his captors, an -athletic sambo, had drawn his knife and commenced sharpening it upon the -horns of this novel minotaurus, preparatory to performing upon him the -usual necessary operations.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>{301}</span> But what language can do justice to the -astonishment of all beholders, when the apparent bull, casting aside his -hairy disguise, sprang erect from the ground, exclaiming as he did so: -“Stop, <i>amigos</i>! can you have forgotten your old comrade B., who was -lost a year ago in this <i>cimarronera</i>?”</p> - -<p>So perilous an adventure having convinced him of the risks attending a -savage life, his companions had no difficulty in persuading him to -return home with them, and thereafter found him of immense assistance in -their expeditions, as, being perfectly familiar with the haunts and -habits of the cattle in that cover, he could lead the vaqueros, when -required, with the sagacity of a pointer.</p> - -<p>This story, which B. related with the most admirable ingenuousness of -manner, recalled to his recollection a wonderful discovery upon which he -had chanced, while journeying on a pressing errand to Arauca.</p> - -<p>He had been riding hard all day across the plains, until at length, -overtaken by night, he was constrained to encamp on the spot. Grass and -water for his horse—a fine trotter—being abundant and at hand, he took -no precaution to prevent his straying, other than that of fastening the -animal’s feet on the right side with a <i>manea</i>, a strap with looped -nooses at both ends. In spite of this the horse wandered from him during -the night, a mishap which compelled poor B. to finish the remainder of -the journey on foot, besides being obliged to carry the ponderous saddle -upon his head.</p> - -<p>Having accomplished his errand at Arauca, and after an absence of -several weeks, he was returning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a>{302}</span> home by another route, riding a hired -animal, when to his great joy, on the way he found his steed in fine -condition, and his feet still secured by the strap. The horse he was -riding being already tired, he removed the saddle to the back of his own -steed, and immediately mounted him. But to his overpowering -astonishment, he discovered, on resuming the journey, that the gait of -his horse had undergone an extraordinary change, trotting as formerly on -the side that had remained free from the strap, but ambling on the one -which had been so long confined by it. His wife possessing an ambler, he -sold it immediately he reached home, it being thereafter a useless -expense, as, whenever in the future he and his better half wished to -ride at the same time, all that he had to do was to place her on the -ambling side, and then seating himself on the other they trotted and -ambled away to their hearts’ content.</p> - -<p>The nights were thus pleasantly spent, after the fatigues of the day, -most of our men having always some incident or story to relate in -connection with their own experience. One evening, Gaspar, the lame -negro who followed our camp in the humble capacity of washerman, -recounted to a circle of admiring listeners a thrilling adventure which -took place on this very spot, and in which he took a very conspicuous -part. He had been a slave to the wealthy Manuel Blanco, who owned at -that time nearly all these savannas, and possessed in consequence untold -wealth in cattle and horses. In that capacity Gaspar was often compelled -to attend the great hunts undertaken by his master against any <i>tigre -cebado</i> that might have committed depredations in the land.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a>{303}</span></p> - -<p>THE JAGUAR HUNT.</p> - -<p>“It was during the month of August,” said Gaspar, “when the savannas are -at the height of inundation, that the circumstances I am about to relate -occurred at this farm of Matiyure. At such times the tigers, finding the -low lands rather too damp for their delicate feet, seek refuge among the -<i>matas</i>, or in the immediate vicinity of the farm-house, coming out at -night to procure a good supper for themselves and cubs from amongst the -herds congregated on the <i>bancos</i>, and not unfrequently it happens they -carry their depredations to the very gates of the <i>majada</i>.</p> - -<p>“We had heard for several nights in succession what, in the opinion of -our people, was only the bellowing of <i>padrotes</i> assembling their herds, -but which the more sagacious hounds recognized at once as the roar of -their old acquaintance, the tiger, invariably answering each time with a -prolonged and dismal howl. It was easy to perceive, from the prints left -in the mud, that there were several of these animals, perhaps a mother -and her cubs. One fine morning the boys who tended the calves apprised -the majordomo that some wild beast had broken into the <i>chiquero</i>,<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> -and carried off the old sow, about giving birth to a litter; next day -the boar was missing, and so on until the <i>chiquero</i> was entirely -relieved of all the inmates. Fearing for our own lives and the safety -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a>{304}</span> our steeds, the majordomo made arrangements for a grand hunt, for -the purpose of exterminating, if possible, the whole of these marauders. -Our master, who was at that time in the village, was notified of the -plan, as were also all those who might wish to improve this opportunity -for the display of personal prowess.</p> - -<p>“The following day we had the satisfaction of seeing our master arrive -at the farm, accompanied by the <i>Padre</i> and a long retinue of -assistants, all of them zambos of undoubted courage and most -accomplished matadors. The <i>Padre</i>, a fat little gentleman not yet past -the prime of life, came more as a <i>curioso</i><a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> than, as many supposed, -to exorcise the demons of the jungle. Although he had the reputation of -being a very holy father, he did not disdain at times to lay aside the -cassock and join his parishioners in the manly sport of the Llanos.</p> - -<p>“We mustered about forty in all, which, together with a dozen or more -tiger-dogs, were considered quite sufficient for our purpose. Some of -the men carried lances cut to within six feet of the steel head, so that -the long shaft might not interfere with their movements in the jungle; -whilst others, trusting more to their own agility and skill, were simply -armed with their swords and a <i>saleo</i><a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> to cover their movements. I, -who was neither a matador nor a great horseman at the time, was -intrusted with the hazardous post of leading the dogs into the cover, -and therefore was more exposed than any of the rest to the anger of the -tiger.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a>{305}</span></p> - -<p>“We were not long in tracking the <i>pintado</i> to a neighboring <i>mata</i> by -the fresh prints of his paw in the soft mud and by a number of -turkey-buzzards hovering above the carcass in the woods.</p> - -<p>“On arriving at the place supposed to harbor the beast, all those of our -men who had lazos were stationed at convenient distances around the -wood, while I was ordered to lead the dogs into the jungle after the -concealed enemy. This I accomplished with due precautions, aware, as you -all know, that the <i>pintado</i> has the peculiarity of concealing himself -where not even a fox could hide itself without being discovered. -Presently I perceived a very strong smell—not unlike that arising from -a leather vat—which filled the air in whatever direction the dogs led -me, and soon after a tremendous howling from these worthies apprised me -in whose company they had thrust me. Simultaneously with the howling of -the dogs, I heard first a hoarse growling, not unlike a concert of -<i>araguatos</i> just before the rain, and, judging from the increased -barking of the hounds, I concluded that the enemy was in full retreat, -when I thought my time had come to show him my mettle. But lo! scarcely -had I advanced many paces, when, <i>Ave Maria, Señores!</i> the tiger gave -such a fearful roar as to shake the ground and the trees upon it. I do -not know what became of the dogs or the tiger at the moment; for my -part, all I can say is, that, without being aware of it, I found myself -again alongside of my companions, and, what was worse, in the presence -of the majordomo, who, by way of warning, discharged upon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>{306}</span> my ribs -sundry blows with his <i>chaparro</i>. It is needless to add, that after this -I considered myself ten times better off amidst my hounds, whom I had -every reason to expect would keep away the beast from me, I mean, of -course, the tiger. Upon my word, <i>camaradas</i>, and with all due respect -to <i>mi Comandante</i> Rávago, here present, I assure you that, of all -savage creatures, there is none so terrible as an angry majordomo.”</p> - -<p>“Thou didst find it so,” retorted the weather-beaten overseer, “when, -amidst a shower of bullets from the Spaniards, I dragged thee out like a -lame duck from the plaza at La Cruz; but proceed, my old buzzard, and -tell us what effect did the well-deserved thrashing produce on thy sooty -hide.”</p> - -<p>“Guided by the barking of the dogs, I again entered the wood with -renewed determination, for this time, at least, I was well provided with -a lance, which some humane companion placed in my hands, besides a -<i>saleo</i> which I picked up on my way thither. Thus armed and prepared for -the encounter, I fancied myself this time another Marcelino, slaying -everything around me; but how I acquitted myself afterwards the sequel -of my narrative will show you.</p> - -<p>“Well, <i>Señores</i>, I found <i>Tio Tigre</i><a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> at the foot of a large -algarroba-tree, surrounded by my dogs, whose movements he watched all -the time with an evil eye. To all appearances none of the contending -parties had yet come to any decisive move, although the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a>{307}</span> hounds kept -very closely on him. Cat-like, seated on his haunches and playfully -moving his tail from side to side, he awaited the attack of the barking -troop with becoming composure, never betraying the least symptom of -alarm, nor even deigning to stir a foot beyond his post to silence them. -At times he even appeared to disregard their menacing tone, rubbing his -eyes with his great paws as if doubtful which of my fat hounds would -afford him the best meal. Occasionally he licked his thick upper lip -with his fiery tongue, as if savoring beforehand the unexpected morsel -thus brought before him. Finally one of the dogs, which appeared more -courageous than the rest, made a sudden spring at his side, when I -thought my time had come to plunge my lance into his vitals. But before -I could measure the distance that separated me from the enemy, I had the -mortification to see my brave companion stretched lifeless on the -ground. This, I thought, was a bad beginning; but if ever I have a -chance at thy dirty skin (said I to the villain), I am going to dye it -of a different hue.</p> - -<p>“My dogs, however, were not to be intimidated so easily after this -unexpected discomfiture: on the contrary, growing more and more -clamorous all the time for the fate of their companion, they seemed -determined on avenging his death by renewing their attacks upon the -enemy. The tiger, however, conscious, no doubt, of the fate that awaited -him beyond his lair, obstinately refused to be driven out like a -polecat, but adhered firmly to his entrenchment at the foot of the -tree.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a>{308}</span></p> - -<p>“Now, there was among my pack of hounds a splendid fellow which had -always been a particular favorite of mine, not only on account of his -superior strength in dealing with refractory bulls, but also for his -friendly attachment to my person, which he had displayed more especially -whenever the majordomo showed himself overzealous on behalf of my master -by an undue punishment on me. Observing that the tiger still persisted -in maintaining his position, I said to Fierabras—for such was my -favorite’s name—Now then, my boy, show him your teeth! while I advanced -two or three steps with the intention of pinning the animal with my -lance to the body of the tree. But alas! vain attempt: with one stroke -from his huge paw, the tiger snatched the lance from my hands, and laid -me flat on the ground, inflicting at the same time the severe gash on my -neck that you may still observe. But that is not all; as the scoundrel, -disregarding all the rules of decency and politeness, very coolly sat -himself upon my face, nearly suffocating me with the weight of his body -and the strong exhalations arising from it. I thought that if I could -get at my <i>cuchillo</i>, which I carried by my side, I would soon get the -pride out of him; but in the situation I then was, it would have been -impossible and even hazardous to attempt anything of the kind. -Fortunately the tiger, like his near relative, the cat, seldom worries -his victims as long as they keep perfectly still. By this time some of -my friends outside—not hearing the loud whoops by which I encouraged -the dogs, and fearing something serious might have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a>{309}</span> happened to -me—hastened to the spot from whence proceeded the barking of the dogs, -and endeavored to rescue me from my perilous situation. The tangled -nature of the wood, however, not permitting the men to use their lazos, -one of my companions—a slave, like myself, and a most daring -matador—resolved to attack the tiger with his sword. Seizing the -sheep-skin from the seat of his saddle, and partly rolling it on his -left arm, he advanced boldly upon the tiger, and, with a voice that I -shall never forget, he cried out: ‘Now, then, <i>hijo ’una put</i> ... you -don’t know who Paulino Blanco is, or else you would not be making faces -at me there as if you were a monkey.’ The tiger, who most likely had, -during his nocturnal visits to the farm-house, heard something about the -famous matador, very wisely disregarded the insult flung at him, instead -of rushing on to his encounter like a mad bull. This somewhat -disconcerted the plans of the matador, who was also aware of the danger -of attacking the beast in his intrenchment; but finally losing all -manner of patience, Paulino made a rush on the tiger, not stopping until -he almost touched the animal’s nose with the sheep-skin; then plunging -his sword in the neck of his antagonist, both fell rolling on the -ground, cracking the brushwood as they struggled. In the meantime I was -not slow in improving the opportunity to crawl out in search of my lost -lance, which I soon found, and was enabled by means of it to return the -service rendered by my companion. To plunge the lance into the beast’s -heart and turn him on his side, was the work of a moment, after which -the tiger<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a>{310}</span> gradually relaxed his hold upon my prostrate companion, and -stretched himself out to die without a groan, but not before he had -inflicted several deep wounds on the neck and chest of his antagonist. -Thus ended the career of that scourge of the savannas, and my first -experience in tiger-hunting.</p> - -<p>“After this adventure it was easy to perceive that chasing the tiger on -his own ground was not an easy task by any means. Therefore our people -were induced to proceed more cautiously in the subsequent search that -was made for the others.</p> - -<p>“It was not long before the dogs, which were by this time aroused to a -sense of revenge and self-defence, fell in with the track of another -tiger, probably the wife of the defunct, as it was evident from the -footprints that she was followed by two younger ones. Fearing from past -experience that this second hunt might also prove as disastrous as the -former, it was agreed that all those who carried lances should enter the -wood on foot in order to attack the tigress in a body, should she refuse -to come out to open ground. I, of course, was too faint with loss of -blood to be able to follow up the trail this time; therefore the dogs -had been placed under the guidance of some one else, and shortly after I -had the satisfaction of hearing the bark of my chaps resounding through -the woods, which was a sure sign they had brought the game to a stand. I -was expecting every moment to hear the glad tidings of the destruction -of this female marauder, when, instead of the usual cry of victory, I -heard a tremendous rush and cracking of sticks, as if<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a>{311}</span> a herd of wild -hogs were endeavoring to escape. Judge of my disappointment when I -beheld the whole troop of men and dogs hurrying out of the wood; and at -the head of the fugitives no less a personage than his Reverence the -Padre, hotly chased by the enraged tigress, who, having witnessed the -slaughter in cold blood of one of her darlings, could not restrain her -fury any longer, charging headlong into the midst of the group. In spite -of his category, she would in all probability have made short work of -<i>Su Señoria</i>, had not the Padre conceived the good idea of dropping his -broad-brim behind him, which fortunately was carried away by a strong -gust of wind, thus exciting the enraged beast to a pursuit. The tigress, -after sporting with the hat like a bird after a butterfly, finding that -it was mere chaff, tore it in pieces, and again turned her attention -towards the reverend fugitive. In the meantime the Padre had not been -very slow in reaching his horse, which was tied at the foot of a -caujaro-tree a short distance from the wood. Unfortunately, just as he -was in the act of laying hands upon the bridle of his steed, the tigress -issued from amongst the high grass, and again charged him. At sight of -the dreaded beast, the horse, giving a toss to the halter in the air, -broke loose and scampered off, leaving his master to the tender mercies -of the tigress.</p> - -<p>“Swifter than a monkey, and in spite of his ponderous stomach, the Padre -went up the slender tree, which bent like a reed at every effort he made -to reach the branches, threatening to drop him between the open jaws of -the tigress, which by this time had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a>{312}</span> reached the foot of the tree. Here, -again, his patron saint, as it is alleged, saved him once more from the -impending danger. The truth, in my opinion, is that the tree was not -stout enough for the tigress to embrace it firmly to climb up, otherwise -all the good saints in heaven would not have prevented her from tearing -him down like a frightened <i>araguato</i>.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> His Reverence might have -remained there until the day of judgment, as the tigress had already -crouched beneath the tree, and he had no means at hand for driving her -off, not even through the power of excommunication, but for the timely -arrival of two <i>enlazadores</i>,<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> who, observing a horse scampering over -the plain without a rider, were attracted to the spot; these, unfolding -their lazos, threw them at the beast with such precision as to entangle -the animal at one and the same moment; she was thus prevented from doing -injury to either the Padre or themselves; for, every time she endeavored -to spring on the one, the other tighted his lazo to check her movement. -Furious with rage and foaming at the mouth, the tigress endeavored to -bite the lazos through and through; but finding the hide from which the -thong was twisted rather too tough even for her powerful tusks, she -rolled over the grass in trepidation and dismay at finding herself so -unexpectedly in the power of her captors.</p> - -<p>“It was a glorious sight to behold the savage creature thus struggling -with the slender lazos that bound<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a>{313}</span> her to the ground. Crippled as I was -from the effects of my first encounter with the tiger, I had sufficient -strength to reach the scene of action in time to take part in the death -of his wife also; but ere I dealt the first blow at her, I felt my arm -suddenly arrested by the Padre, who contended that the honor of putting -an end to her accursed existence belonged to him exclusively as being -the aggrieved party on this occasion. I therefore willingly surrendered -my lance to him, he having lost his own spear in the hurry of the -moment; and then he set to work cutting her up with all the nicety of us -folks, as if he had long been trained in the art of wielding a lance. -Nevertheless, the tigress would not allow herself to be so easily -conquered; at every stroke from the Padre’s lance, she seized the pole -with teeth and claws so firmly that we found it difficult to wrench it -from her grasp, and it was not until she had been literally cut to -pieces that she gave up the ghost—to the devil, I hope.</p> - -<p>“It was late in the afternoon when we finished our hunt, and turned our -horses’ heads in the direction of the farm-house. We should, no doubt, -have succeeded in killing as many more of these ferocious beasts, but -for the early mishap to myself and the good zambo Paulino, in -consequence of which we both had to be carried—or, rather, we carried -ourselves as well as we could—to the <i>pueblo</i>, in order to have our -wounds properly dressed. On our arrival at the house, we found our -mistress—who had already been acquainted with the facts by my -master—awaiting us at the gate of the inclosure, and apparently very -much excited<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a>{314}</span> with the news; for no sooner did Paulino pass the gate, -and without waiting for him to dismount from his horse, than she -accosted my companion in the following manner: ‘Well, Paulino, my boy, I -declare ... now tell me, how did the tiger scratch you, my poor fellow, -and what did you do to the scoundrel?’ with other similar expressions of -feminine curiosity. Paulino, who was more matter of fact than we poor -slave folks have generally the credit for, very prudently hesitated at -first to comply with the train of her requests, excusing himself by -saying, ‘Alas! mistress, it was a hard case, indeed; but, to tell you -the truth, I shouldn’t like to show you how.’</p> - -<p>“This reluctance on the part of my companion only helped to excite her -curiosity still more, until she commanded him, in a peremptory manner, -to explain to her the circumstances of the case. By this time Paulino -had, with some difficulty, extricated himself from the saddle, and -falling suddenly upon our mistress with a loud yell, he threw her upon -the ground and commenced biting and scratching her just as the tiger had -done to him. The yell from zambo and the shrieks from <i>mi Señora</i> soon -drew to the spot my master, and some gentlemen who had come to -congratulate him on the success of the hunt. Frantic with passion, and -in a tone of voice which made me tremble for poor Paulino, he roared -out, ‘How, now! Who’s taking such liberties with my wife, here!’ To -which Paulino very calmly replied, ‘ ’Tis nothing, master, I was only -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a>{315}</span>showing mistress how the tiger scratched me!’ ...”</p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">LOS BORALES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Aware</span> of the importance of a plentiful supply of water for the cattle -during the season of drought, we resolved to build a large reservoir in -the heart of the savannas before leaving the pampas, and with this -object now turned our steps toward the lagoon of Los Borales—so named -in honor of a species of water lily very abundant on its borders—which, -although quite a lake during the rainy season, often lost its waters by -evaporation and other causes when most needed. This required a dam to be -raised across one of the many creeks traversing these plains in all -directions, to arrest the flow when the floods begin ebbing, thus -leaving an artificial reservoir where previously only an extensive bog -existed. We installed ourselves within the shelter of a solitary grove, -and immediately commenced raising an embankment to several feet above -the level of the plain, taking the earth for the purpose from the bed of -a creek connecting with the lagoon. Digging to the depth of twelve feet, -we came upon a tree with trunk and branches in perfect<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a>{316}</span> preservation, -which, although it had evidently been thus entombed for ages, a breath -of air had power to crumble into dust. As from the time of our arrival -it had rained unceasingly, the water rapidly accumulated in the now -completed reservoir, though our satisfaction received something of a -damper from the fact that the fires were thereby constantly -extinguished, until we bethought ourselves of erecting over them a -covering of green boughs about three feet from the ground. Upon this we -laid large pieces of meat, which, covered with palm leaves, were -speedily cooked by the fire beneath.</p> - -<p>In that retired and solitary grove, seated on a pack-saddle, and -surrounded by lazos, bridles, and other emblems of our peaceful -occupation, I wrote under the dictation of our Leader, his emphatic -refusal to accept the Presidency of the Republic for a third time. -Little did we then dream that this spontaneous act of political -abnegation would be hailed with exultation by his enemies, in the hope -of working, as it did for a time, his ruin as well as that of the -Republic; and that the same plains where occurred this disinterested -proof of patriotism, should shortly afterward witness a scene of -bloodshed and persecution to him who, not long before, had been the -acknowledged guardian of his country’s liberties.</p> - -<p>Thunder storms were now of frequent occurrence. One night we were -awakened by a fearful clap from the approaching tempest. The prospect -was not inviting. Sheltered in our hammocks only by our <i>toldos</i>, and -raising among us all but a very small umbrella of philosophy, we awaited -the coming storm.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a>{317}</span> In a moment it was upon its with a raging wind that -threatened to overthrow and crush us beneath the falling branches of the -trees. Then from the heavens descended so continuous a sheet of -commingled fire and flood, that these at last appeared to become a part -of the atmosphere we breathed. Terrified by this fearful uproar, our -<i>madrina</i> of supernumerary horses, which, fearing the snakes, we had -quartered in the bed of a dried-up lagoon, dashed madly across the -plain, in spite of the combined efforts of their keepers. But no sooner -had these refractory animals abandoned the secure pastures for the high -grounds, than, attacked by snakes, three of them paid with their lives -their insubordination, and one of these unfortunates was afterward -brought staggering into the camp, groaning piteously. Unable in the -darkness to discover the cause of his sufferings, a light was speedily -procured by igniting a rag rolled in fat, when a most revolting -spectacle presented itself; the poor beast, so covered with blood that -he appeared literally to have been plunged into a bath of gore, had -evidently been bitten by a snake, possibly the same which in killing the -others had probably nearly exhausted its poison upon them, so that what -remained of the venom had not power to produce immediate death, but -effected a complete diapedesis or transudation of the blood. A -<i>curandero</i> present undertook to restore the poor animal by means of the -famous <i>oracion</i>, but on this occasion his skill was vain—the horse in -a short time expiring, apparently in great agony. The groans of the -dying animal, the thundering of the others along the waste, the shouts<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a>{318}</span> -and curses of their pursuers, who in the darkness were in danger of -being trampled under the feet of more than three hundred frightened -animals, mingled with the appalling fury of the elements, until it -seemed as though earth and heaven were struggling for the mastery. This -fearful scene oh, my unhappy country! shadowed forth but too faithfully -thy dark night of despotism; the anarchy, contentions, and wretchedness -of thy children; thy ravaged borders, where the “Wise and Good” had -formerly scattered plenty over the smiling land, and portrays now to me -as faithfully the night when I, with a handful of brave youths from -Maracaibo, was surprised upon the borders of its lake by the myrmidons -of the tyrant Monagas, and carried prisoners to the capital while -endeavoring to save the remnant of constitutional liberty in the -republic.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Our men, finding it impossible during the darkness to trace the -horses—among them all of those used for the saddle—were obliged to -postpone their search until sunrise. At length, as if wearied with its -wild orgies, this tumultuous night passed away, and the morning star -appeared leading the timid dawn. The earth, so late the dark abode of -chaos, now in bloom and beauty, seemed the favored daughter of the -spheres, sparkling in liquid gems, and radiant in the gorgeous splendor -of tropical spring, while myriads of white lilies, far as eye could -reach, mantled the plain, flooding with perfume the pure morning air. -Countless flocks of waterfowl, from the tiny <i>güirirí</i> to the -soldier-like crane of the pampas, crowded the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a>{319}</span> miniature lakes, which -the late storm had left in every hollow of the ground, and made the air -resound with their harsh and varied notes. Conspicuous among these last -were the several species of <i>garzas</i>—herons—those “Ladies of the -waters, delicate in form, beautiful in plumage, and graceful in their -movements,” whose slender, arching necks, curving here and there above -and through the sprouting grass, reminded one of the deadly snakes -lurking about the plain. There, too, the <i>carrao</i>, a bird less -prepossessing in appearance, but endowed with keen perception of a -coming change of weather, announced by loud cries, from which it derives -its name, the near approach of rain with singular precision. Clouds of -fluttering <i>gaviotas</i> or scissor-beaks (Rhynchops) skimmed the water in -wild, irregular flight, ploughing up the smaller fish with their -scissor-like beaks, and vexing the ear with harsh and piercing cries. On -all sides bellowing herds of cattle and troops of emaciated deer -wandered, panting as they sought for water and fresh food; while, -rescued from the torpor into which the protracted summer drought had -plunged them, the drowsy crocodiles and sluggish tortoises moved slowly -over the plain in search of the reviving element.</p> - -<p>It was no easy task to keep the fires burning after the deluging showers -of the previous night, in consequence of which we were threatened for a -while with starvation in the midst of plenty, as not only had our -temporary kitchen been destroyed, but every log of wood was drenched -with water; so were also our scanty garments and ponchos, most of them -being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a>{320}</span> likewise in a few hours covered with the larvæ of myriads of -flies which infested our camp. These <i>petites misères</i> were, however, -forgotten for the moment in the all-absorbing topic of the whereabouts -of our runaway horses. Happily the Llaneros, accustomed from their -infancy to observe the instincts of the animals surrounding them, -possess a sort of intuitive knowledge—with them it might be called a -science—of their movements and impulses.</p> - -<p>In following the trail of stray animals amidst thousands intercepting -each other in every direction, it is of course necessary to determine -the right one in order to prosecute the search with some degree of -success. The long experience and sagacity of our sturdy majordomo, whose -word was considered infallible in such matters, were of incalculable -advantage on this occasion. Calmly seated on his hammock, his -weather-beaten countenance turned toward the far horizon, he assembled -around him the wearied watchmen of the missing drove, still drenched by -the late tempest; and directing each squad as to the probable course -followed by the separate groups of horses, he ordered them to disperse -over the plain in pursuit of their uncertain errand. As the subsequent -results proved, on the afternoon of the following day, it was executed -with gratifying punctuality; and here I may be permitted to utter a -passing word of praise in behalf of these hardy cavaliers of the desert -plains, upon whose courage and sagacity often depends, not only the -success of such expeditions, but sometimes even the fate of a whole -army, whose progress would be seriously endangered without a competent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a>{321}</span> -body of cavalry to procure the necessary supply of beef. Scantily -provided with raiment, poorly paid, and the simple fare of the Llanos -for rations, they are at the post of duty at all hours, in the hot -sunshine of day, or “in thunder, in lightning, and in rain” by night, -always cheerful and happy, providing they have with them their -inharmonious guitar and plenty of tobacco with which to satisfy their -appetite for stimulus of some sort. Among the various duties of their -vocation, one of the hardest to which they are subjected is that of -keeping a constant watch over the cattle at night to prevent their -dispersion, as they are compelled to remain for hours on horseback and -“wide awake.” In order to accustom the cattle to the voice of their -nocturnal guardians, a constant chant in a peculiarly plaintive strain, -in which cattle seem rather to delight, is kept up until morning, when -only a few horsemen are necessary to retain them within the grazing -ground. Should the unruly herd, despite their vigilance, take alarm, as -is often the case, or evince any symptoms of uneasiness, the first care -of the men is to close in, in circle, and if this prove unavailing, they -place themselves at the head of the stampede, in order to check, if -possible, the progress of the affrighted multitude; but woe to the -unfortunate watchman whose horse, missing his footing, throws his rider, -for he will be trampled to death in an instant!</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>One afternoon we were apprised by a special messenger from El Frio, that -a tall, red-faced Englishman had arrived from the Orinoco, bringing any -quantity<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a>{322}</span> of fire-arms, ammunition, and—what appeared most -extraordinary to our informant—a genuine negro servant who could speak -English. As no written communication had been despatched along with the -bearer of this unexpected piece of intelligence, we had not an idea of -who this British Nimrod might be. We, however, hastened to welcome the -stranger, and for the purpose left Los Borales next morning for -head-quarters. On arriving, we were most agreeably surprised at meeting -no less a personage than Lord James Butler, now, as I understand, Earl -of Ormond. We then recollected that the previous year, when his lordship -had honored us with a visit at our home in the valleys of Aragua, he had -promised that should we carry out our projected expedition to the -pampas, he would meet us there. Accordingly, in expectation of this, he -had quitted Barbadoes—where he was stationed with his regiment—in his -yacht for the river Orinoco. There he left it and prosecuted the -remainder of the voyage in a clumsy bongo, up the Apure, arriving at San -Fernando nearly a month after quitting Ciudad Bolívar. At the former -place he was advised to proceed to Achaguas, where he would most likely -hear of our whereabouts. Obtaining there the requisite information, he -immediately set out for our cattle farm, distant about fifteen leagues; -but instead of providing him with a guide across the trackless waste, he -was merely furnished with a refractory mule, which they assured him -would take him to the next cattle farm, whence he would be directed -onward. He had not proceeded far on his solitary way, when the vicious -animal, taking fright<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a>{323}</span> at a prairie-owl just as night was approaching, -suddenly whirled round, and my lord, despite his long legs and English -horsemanship, lost his balance, was dismounted, and, what was worse, -left to shift for himself in the midst of a wide plain; the mule, -finding, perhaps, the load rather too much for him, scampering off -without even a parting compliment. Nor was his sable squire at hand to -render him the requisite assistance, as he had been left behind in -charge of the numberless accoutrements for the chase. Fortunately a peon -accidentally encountered the mule on his way home, and knowing the -tricks of the animal, secured him, and brought him back to the -discomfited traveller.</p> - -<p>His lordship related this adventure with much humor, and on our -expressing regret that he had met with so disagreeable a <i>contretemps</i>, -he coolly replied that he scarcely considered it in that light, and -rather regretted its speedy termination as having, possibly, deprived -him of some curious experiences.</p> - -<p>Although the best room in the house had been prepared for his -accommodation, we observed with surprise that when night came, he -insisted upon having his hammock slung in the open air. This, we -afterward discovered, was in consequence of his great horror for the -<i>murcielagos</i> clinging in clusters to the thatch-roof of the house; and -I must confess also that the guest-chamber in our Manor of the Pampas -had few attractions, and could offer none of the allurements of the -<i>dulce domo</i> to his lordship of Kilkenny Castle. Wines or delicacies of -any kind we had none; but as we were well aware that the hospitable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a>{324}</span> -Englishman always offers some choicer beverage than water to his guests, -we caused an old corozo-palm tree standing in front of the house to be -cut down, and from it we procured every afternoon a plentiful supply of -palm-wine. To obtain this, a trough is scooped out in the upper part of -the stem among the footstalks of the leaves; the opening is then covered -with the square piece of bark just cut out, and the wine or sap allowed -to accumulate in the trough during the night. A few hours are sufficient -to produce a pleasant vinous fermentation with a sweetish taste and a -flavor similar to that of Malaga wine; but if left to ferment for a -longer period, it acquires decidedly intoxicating properties.</p> - -<p>Although our sports were nearly over at this time, we endeavored to -entertain our distinguished visitor as well as circumstances would -permit. We escorted him several times to the savannas in search of game, -and even got up a <i>rodeo</i> and branding frolic for his special amusement, -with both of which he appeared highly delighted. During the excitement -of the <i>rodeo</i> he had another adventure, similar to that I have already -related as having occurred to my friend, Mr. Thomas, with a wild bull, -and which came very near proving more disastrous than his lordship’s -previous one with the refractory mule. We had just surrounded a large -herd of cattle, when, like the artist, inspired by the excitement of the -chase and its accompanying scenes, Lord James seized his sketch-book and -commenced to delineate them. He had not been long thus occupied, when a -bull, attracted perhaps by the commanding attitude of the draughtsman,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a>{325}</span> -broke through the ring, and made at him with fury in his eyes. -Unconscious of danger, he continued his occupation with as much -composure as if at a stag-hunt in the West Riding of Yorkshire. It was -too late to render him assistance, and we watched the issue with -breathless anxiety; but the bull, apparently awed by the immovable -attitude of the rider and his fearless composure, contented himself with -making a tremendous demonstration at the breast of the horse without -either touching him or his rider, and then, turning tail, vanished in -the distance. It was highly amusing to hear his lordship inquire the -meaning of all that flourish of trumpets, when a witty Llanero, standing -near, replied to him that it was evidently intended as a salutation from -the wild multitude to the honored guest.</p> - -<p>Startled by the noise and rush of so many animals over the plain, the -foxes—in the pursuit of which Englishmen are so lavish of trouble and -expense—could be seen running to and fro, endeavoring to escape; no -sooner did the noble son of Albion discover that this favorite game was -also to be found in the pampas, than he abandoned the exciting hunt of -the wild cattle for the first fox that crossed his path. He had not -proceeded far, however, when another fox, and then another, and finally -a legion of them offered to his eager pursuit. Bewildered by so many -bushy tails, he gave up the chase in disgust; and I am sorry to state -that this species of <i>embarras de richesse</i>, spoiled sport for him in -all his subsequent sorties, excepting when, on a visit to the creek of -Macanillal, we “caught a tartar” in the shape of a full-grown<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a>{326}</span> -crocodile, which we mistook for a young one. This adventure, however, -afforded him a good deal of amusement, and some surprise to those -engaged in the undertaking. It so happened that only the end of the -reptile’s tail was out of water in a very shallow spot, the rest of its -body being entirely buried among the roots of a large stump. Judging -from the apparent smallness of the tail that we could easily drag out -the creature, and his lordship having expressed a desire to obtain the -specimen for preservation, Roseliano immediately volunteered his -services. He tried in vain, however, to bring it to light unassisted, -whereupon a lazo was brought into requisition, and having noosed the -tail therewith, we succeeded in pulling the reptile out of its -hiding-place, when, to our great astonishment and trepidation, we -discovered that it was a large and full-grown female crocodile with a -brood of young ones among the roots of the old tree. She struggled -furiously in defence of her brood, several of which we captured and -presented to our guest; but when the time came for disposing of the -mother and recovering the lazo, we found that it would prove no child’s -play, inasmuch as she had full command of her jaws. After several -ineffectual attempts to stab her while in water, we succeeded at length -in dragging her partly from her lair, and then only were we enabled to -unfasten the noose. A stab or two in the armpits, causing a flow of -blood, speedily brought the caribes to finish the job, after which we -returned to the house, much gratified at having rid the creek of this -dangerous family.</p> - -<p>On our way back I met with a severe accident,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>{327}</span> and narrowly escaped -serious injury from it. We were cantering along a beautifully level -piece of ground, covered with short grass; this suggested to my English -friends the idea of testing the relative swiftness of our horses. Off we -at once started, and had proceeded but a short distance, when we found -our way obstructed by a dried-up creek. The Englishmen, as a matter of -course, delighted, leaped it at a bound; but my pony, not being -sufficiently strong to clear the obstruction, missed the opposite bank -and fell, rolling over with me into the ditch. I was a good deal bruised -in consequence, and the house being still at considerable distance, -suffered intensely in reaching it. This accident prevented me from -joining in the other sports devised for the entertainment of our noble -guest, who, however shortly afterward bade us adieu and returned to the -sea coast. He preferred, on this occasion, the route through Nutrias and -Barinas, that he might escape the tedious descent of the rivers; a -messenger was therefore despatched to Ciudad Bolívar, ordering his yacht -to meet him at Puerto Cabello. Disabled by my recent mishap, I could -not, much to my regret, accompany him; a guide of his own selection was, -however, furnished in the person of our negro troubadour Quintana, for -whom his lordship had evinced a decided predilection, even extending to -him an invitation to visit “Old England,” the friend and protector of -benighted Africa; but we could not spare him for so long a trip; and as -Llaneros have an innate aversion to trusting themselves on unknown -waters, the acquaintanceship terminated on the borders of the Caribbean -Sea.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a>{328}</span></p> - -<p>After the departure of our noble guest from El Frio, we began to think -that it was also high time for us to be getting ready for our return -homeward. The task of retracing our steps, however, was not an easy -thing to accomplish with three thousand oxen to look after, besides the -other animals we brought there; and this in the face of the approaching -inundation of the savannas.</p> - -<p>As soon as our preparations were completed, we took our final departure -from El Frio, which perhaps we were destined never to revisit, stopping -at San Pablo for a few days to make further arrangements at the pass for -crossing the river with our immense train of animals and baggage. On our -way to San Pablo, we were nigh being put to rout, and our labors -scattered to the winds, by an invasion of a small bloody fly termed -<i>mosquilla</i>, which makes its appearance at the commencement of the rainy -season, and which, for destructiveness to flesh and blood, surpasses any -thing I have yet seen in the shape of an insect. In an instant we were -enveloped in a swarm of these terrible creatures, which fastened -themselves upon us and the cattle with a tenacity like that of hungry -leeches, maddening both man and beast, and causing streams of blood to -flow from the bites. The only relief we found for a while was to drive -the cattle at full speed across the plain; but this expedient, although -for the time it frightened away the flies, came very near producing also -a complete dispersion of the herd. We therefore resigned ourselves to -endure their torturing attacks until they had gorged themselves with -blood.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_27" id="ill_27"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b328b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b328b_sml.jpg" width="300" height="496" alt="Image unavailable: OUR LEADER." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">OUR LEADER.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a>{329}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">OUR LEADER.</span><br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE ROMANCE OF A PATRIOT’S LIFE.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">From</span> San Pablo we despatched men on to Apurito, where we proposed -crossing the river with the cattle, to make preparations for this -toilsome work; and then started for Achaguas, the inhabitants of which -town had tendered our Leader an earnest invitation to visit his old -head-quarters. After an easy ride of about three hours, we forded on -horseback the arm of the Apure River which, running in a south-easterly -direction, forms with the Arauca and the main channel of the former the -island of Achaguas, on which the capital of the province, a collection -of mud hovels, is situated. A brood of scaly crocodiles basking in the -sun, and a herd of tame cattle refreshing themselves in the middle of -the stream, were the only signs of animation we perceived on our -approach to the renowned capital of the Apure. In spite of its present -dilapidated condition, Achaguas did not fail to interest me more than -any other spot in Apure, being my birthplace, and the stronghold for -many years of my country’s independence. The Governor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a>{330}</span> of the province, -Señor Arciniega, accompanied by the few officials in the place, came out -after a while to greet our Leader, as did also the veteran General -Cornelio Muñoz, former Commander of the famous <i>Guardia de Honor</i>, or -<i>Colorados de Paez</i>, which under the leadership of both these generals, -performed so many prodigies during the long struggle between Royalists -and Patriots, which resulted in the final overthrow of Spanish -domination in Colombia. At that epoch of historical interest to the -friends of liberty in America, Achaguas held the most conspicuous -position as the headquarters of the patriot armies, led by the subject -of the following remarks.</p> - -<p>The arms of the republic were at first unsuccessful, and Venezuela -submitted to the government of the mother country, the Spanish -commander, Don Domingo Monteverde, having triumphed over the patriot -forces in 1812. By this time, however, a new champion of the republican -cause was rising in the south, amidst the wild scenes I have endeavored -to depict in the foregoing pages. This champion was Captain José A. -Paez, then a youth of twenty Aprils, who conceived the happy idea of -collecting a horde of undisciplined Llaneros in the plains of Casanare -to oppose the overwhelming forces of Spain. His intimate acquaintance -with the country, and his thorough mastery in all the sports of the -Llaneros, admirably fitted him to carry out his plans successfully. How -he came there, and by what means he acquired the requisite proficiency -for the arduous enterprise, the following anecdote of his early career -will explain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a>{331}</span> When seventeen years of age, an uncle of his, the good -Priest of Araure, his native place, entrusted him with a large sum of -money to deliver safely into the hands of the curate of a distant -parish, furnishing him for the journey with a mule, an old pistol, and a -rusty sword; for, even at that period of comparative quiet and peace -(1807) it was dangerous for a traveller to venture over the roads alone, -and carrying with him the tempting metal. The future President of the -Republic, highly elated at the great confidence reposed in him, with the -usual inexperience of youth, spoke freely about his commission in the -first inn he stopped at to get his meals. The consequence of this -imprudence was, that shortly after he left the inn, he was attacked on -the road by three men, who, as a matter of course, demanded <i>la bolsa ó -la vida</i>. The youthful traveller, however, dismounted with the old -pistol in his hand already cocked, and now threatening one and then the -other of his assailants, endeavored to repel them. At last, being too -closely pressed, he fired the pistol at the nearest robber, with such -good aim that he killed his adversary on the spot, while the fragments -of the barrel, which burst at the same time, struck another in the face. -Then charging resolutely upon the third bandit with the rusty sword, he -quickly put both to flight, leaving behind them the corpse of their -wretched comrade. Notwithstanding the obvious propriety of his conduct -on this occasion, acting as he did in self-defence, the young man feared -the consequences; he imagined himself already accused, persecuted, -without the means of proving his innocence, and therefore determined to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a>{332}</span> -hide himself by going into the interior of the plains, hoping thus to -escape a punishment which his error made him regard as inevitable. -Determined to gain an honest livelihood, he sought employment on the -cattle farm of La Calzada, in the province of Barinas, where he soon -became inured to the fatigues of the ranger’s life; acquiring at the -same time, under the tuition of a cruel negro majordomo, that -proficiency in horsemanship which later in life gave him the superiority -over the enemy.</p> - -<p>Proud and jealous at the same time of his white apprentice, whom he -imagined had been sent there by his master to spy his actions, the negro -overseer of La Calzada spared no opportunity to put to the test the -courage and strength of the future champion of those plains, sometimes -compelling him to break in the most vicious horses, which often led him -off for days into the open fields; at other times ordering him away upon -the most hazardous ventures of the Llanos. Not satisfied with this show -of authority over his pupil, the brutal black Mentor of young Paez ended -the fatigues of a hard day’s labor by ordering him to bring a pail of -water and wash his muddy feet! But the tide of fortune soon changed; the -whirlwind of revolution offered Paez a new field of adventure, and the -humble peon of La Calzada rapidly gained the highest posts in the -patriot army, while the haughty overseer went to increase the ranks of -the opposing foe. In the course of events the majordomo was brought one -day a prisoner to Paez, who not only spared his life, but kept him -always near his person, his only revenge being to imitate the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a>{333}</span> tone of -his former tyrant when calling upon young Paez to exercise the functions -of the slave: “<i>Niño José Antonio!</i> bring a bowl of water to wash my -feet!” to which the old negro humbly replied, “I see, <i>niño</i>, you have -not forgotten your old tricks.”</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>When the revolution broke out, on the 19th of April, 1810, Paez enlisted -in the militia of Barinas as a common soldier, and soon after was -promoted to the rank of sergeant of cavalry. This, however, being rather -a slow process of promotion, he proceeded to organize an independent -body of cavalry, with which he rendered important service to the cause -of independence. But the path of glory was not without thorns, and our -young leader found himself a prisoner in the hands of the merciless -Spaniards, owing his preservation, as it was then believed, to the -influence of a miracle. In those days a war without quarter was fiercely -waged. The province of Barinas having been again occupied by the -royalist forces, Paez fell into the hands of the cruel Puy, was thrown -into prison and ordered to be executed in the city of Barinas the next -day. At that time military executions of captured enemies were conducted -by leading them out during the night to some lonely spot, where they -were despatched with the lance or the sword. Paez and a number of his -fellow-prisoners were thus being led out one night, when he observed, as -he was leaving the prison, that he was uncovered; believing himself to -be only going to make his deposition before the Governor, he requested -his companion in the cell to lend him his hat. The Spanish officer<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a>{334}</span> in -charge of the mournful cortege, failing to recognize him under this -guise, ordered him back to be exchanged for the owner of the hat, who, -he supposed, was the identical “captain of the rebels.” Thus he obtained -unwittingly a respite of one day. The following night he was awakened -about eleven o’clock by a great noise of horsemen and infantry in the -street. He imagined they were coming to lead him and the rest of his -fellow-prisoners to the place of execution. He prepared, therefore, to -die; but Providence saved his life once more. The noise of arms and -horses in the street had been occasioned by an alarm in consequence of -information received by Governor Puy, that a considerable army of -patriots was encamped on the banks of the Santo Domingo river, on which -Barinas is situated, and was about marching on the city. Several -parties, coming from different directions, confirmed the information -received by the Governor, and the panic became general. It was supposed -that the patriots in large numbers intended to take the Spanish garrison -by surprise and seize upon the Governor. The latter, therefore, -immediately abandoned Barinas with his forces, leaving only a few men to -guard the prison, for in his hurry he had forgotten to execute the -prisoners, as he had done before on similar occasions. This was the time -for Paez to make a bold effort to save his life. The next morning he -embraced the opportunity, broke his fetters, helped to release his -fellow-prisoners, and overpowered one of the sentinels, who attempted to -oppose his escape. Paez then fled to put himself once more at the head -of a small band of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a>{335}</span> patriots, to harass the enemy in the same province -of Barinas. On the morning succeeding the alarm, the royalists could not -discover an enemy for more than fifty miles around the city. The alarm -and panic occasioned by the reported approach of an enemy in the night, -confirmed by so many persons, some of whom had gone out to reconnoitre, -and the most singular disappearance, or absence, of this host on the -following morning, gave rise to the popular belief, existing to this day -among the common people, that the life of Paez was saved by the friendly -intercession and miraculous appearance of an army of departed spirits, -known as the <i>Ejército de las Animas</i>.</p> - -<p>The next exploit of the future champion of the Llanos took place amongst -the rugged mountains of Merida, to which point the remnants of the -republican forces were retreating after the disasters of 1814. Utterly -disheartened and surrounded on all sides by enemies, they hardly knew -which way to turn. The column to which Paez belonged finding itself -unexpectedly confronted on their march to Bailadores by a superior -force, made a stand at a place called Etanques, while the enemy -endeavored to gain the intermediate heights. The road which led to these -was a narrow and deep cut on the sides of the steep mountain, which did -not permit a force to deploy on being attacked; observing which, Paez, -who had no command of his own, and only figured as an <i>attaché</i> to a -small body of cavalry under Capt. Antonio Rangel, who commanded the -advanced post, strenuously urged the captain to pursue the royalists on -their march; Rangel,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a>{336}</span> however, contented himself with exchanging a few -shots with the latter, and returned to occupy his position. Unable to -restrain himself, Paez, who rode a spirited charger, dashed onward, -making a great noise, as if proceeding from many voices, discharging a -blunderbuss on the rear of the column, which killed the sergeant. -Alarmed with the voices and the report of the gun, the royalists were -seized with a sudden panic, and fled in consternation, throwing down -their arms, and upsetting everything and one another in their -precipitate flight, thus presenting an easier mark to the terrible lance -of their pursuer. The only opposition encountered by the latter was from -one José Maria Sanchez, a man renowned for his courage and much feared -by the people of Merida, who compelled Paez to dismount and struggle -hard with him for the possession of the exterminating weapon. Victorious -at last over his formidable antagonist, the reckless champion remained -complete master of the field. It was then that Paez, once again free to -act according to his own judgment and impulses, conceived the idea of -going through the centre of New Granada to the plains of Casanare, south -of the province of Apure. This plan was the result of experience, which -convinced him that the patriots could not triumph, notwithstanding their -unheard-of efforts, while the Spaniards held possession of the plains -and controlled the supply of horses. The acquisition of the Llanos gave -the superiority to the Spaniards, as, by means of it, they had a source -of supplies and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a>{337}</span> safe retreat. Paez determined, therefore, to make -that wild region the base of his military operations, and with this -object organized a body of horsemen in the plains of Casanare, which he -soon after led into the province of Apure.</p> - -<p>In the language of another, “no man was better calculated to command the -love and respect of his wild soldiery. Great bravery, a thorough -knowledge of localities, an affable and familiar treatment of his -followers, procured for Paez great popularity and an unlimited sway over -the minds of his men. He was one of the best riders in a district of -country celebrated for good horsemen, and understood the management of -the lance, his favorite weapon, almost to perfection. He possessed great -bodily strength and agility, and few could compete with him in the wild -sports of the Llaneros, or inhabitants of the immense plains of -Venezuela.”</p> - -<p>The Llanos are, in fact, a permanent camp of military instruction for -their intrepid inhabitants. Accustomed from their infancy to subdue the -wild horse, to master the wild bull, to swim across broad streams, and -to grapple in single combat with the crocodile, the tiger and wild boar, -the Llaneros learn to despise danger. When the war turned them from -their ordinary occupations, the enemy found them ready-made soldiers. -Inhabiting a genial atmosphere and endowed with iron constitutions, -their wants are few and insignificant; in peace, the lazo and the horse; -in war, the horse and the lance. Perfectly acquainted with the country -and unencumbered with heavy accoutrements, the dwellers of the Llanos -cannot<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a>{338}</span> be conquered except by men of the same region, and Venezuela -possesses in those limitless plains and in the breasts of their valorous -children, the strongest bulwark of her national independence.</p> - -<p>Paez, now master of his own military movements, resolved to meet the -enemy there, and, if possible, to bring about an engagement. On the 16th -of February, 1816, he commenced his march in pursuit of the royalist -chief, Don Francisco Lopez, and in three hours’ space met him at a place -called Mata de la Miel, on the right bank of the river Apure. The -royalist leader had two pieces of artillery and sixteen hundred men, -whom he drew up at once in order of battle. Paez’s forces amounted -altogether to about six hundred cavalry. It was evening and the night -fast advancing, on which account many of the patriot officers were of -opinion that the engagement should be postponed until the following day. -This very reason, however, determined the leader to enter at once into -action, as he feared that his soldiers, observing the great superiority -of the enemy in numbers, might take advantage of the night to desert. -Paez accordingly divided his forces in two columns, placing the one, -composed of New Granadians, under command of Captain Genaro Vasquez, and -the other, composed of Venezuelians, under Captain Ramon Nonato Perez. -The royalists were completely routed, and during all that night and the -two following days the forces led by Paez pursued and captured a great -portion of those under Don Francisco Lopez. Such was the action of Mata -de la Miel. There were left dead on the field four hundred royalists, -and a great number of prisoners were taken<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a>{339}</span> together with about three -thousand five hundred horses and nearly all the enemy’s arms. Four -months afterward, in June, Lopez again crossed the Apure with twelve -hundred horsemen and four hundred infantry, but Paez met him near -Mantecal and compelled him to retreat, after losing many men and horses.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding these advantages on the part of the patriot forces, the -result of the following campaigns (1814, 1815, and 1816) was most -disastrous to the arms of the republic elsewhere; Venezuela, New -Granada, and the plains of Casanare again fell into the hands of the -vengeful Spaniards. In 1816, a very numerous emigration of patriots, -consisting of men, women, and children, in a state of great destitution -and suffering, fled to the wilderness from the persecution of the -royalists, and took refuge in the camp of Paez. Many persons of -distinction were to be found among the fugitives, and a system of -government was established for the regulation of affairs. A meeting of -officers was held at Arichuna, and Paez appointed supreme chief, with -the rank of General of Brigade. He applied himself immediately to raise -sufficient forces to oppose Don Francisco Lopez and to acquire, if -possible, some resources in his extreme want. The hardships and -privations endured by the patriot army on the plains can scarcely be -conceived. The soldiers were so destitute of clothing as to be compelled -to use for a covering the hides of the cattle freshly killed; very few -had hats, none shoes. The ordinary and only food was beef, without salt -and without bread. There were, in addition to all this,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a>{340}</span> continual -rains, and the rivers and creeks had overflowed and covered over the -country. They wanted horses, and as these are indispensable to the -Llaneros, they must be obtained before any thing else. Only wild horses -could be procured, and they had to be tamed and broken. This was done in -squadrons, and it was a curious spectacle to see five or six hundred -riders at a time struggling to subdue these wild animals. Around the -ground were stationed several officers, mounted on well-trained horses, -whose duty it was to go after those which escaped from their riders, to -prevent them from carrying away the saddles, although these were made of -wood, with thongs of raw hides. Many years after these scenes, an -eye-witness wrote: “We courted danger in order to put an end, with -honor, to such a miserable life.” To provide against this misery, Paez -now turned his attention to the nearest source of supply, Barinas, a -city abounding in all the commodities he stood most in need of. Although -nearly two hundred miles distant, the patriot chieftain did not hesitate -to invade his old antagonist in the midst of the rainy season. The -undertaking could not, however, be executed without great peril and -hardships, he having to contend not only against the inveterate enemies -who occupied all the approaches to the city, but against the inundation -of the savannas at the time. The expedition, moreover, had to be -conducted with great secrecy, avoiding even the few channels left open -in those inland seas for the transit of men on horseback. Not in the -least deterred by obstacles so formidable in themselves, Paez got -together one thousand picked men, and two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a>{341}</span> thousand white horses, -animals of this color being reputed the best swimmers. With these, he -crossed the Apure and several other streams, then at the height of their -flood, being compelled besides to ford extensive lagoons of various -depths to avoid the numerous gunboats of the enemy, stationed at all the -important passes. On one of these, on the river Canaguá, the expedition -was fortunate enough to capture by surprise a gunboat and a large -quantity of hides, which were left behind with a strong guard for future -use. When near Barinas, Paez sent a detachment to surprise also the town -of Pedraza, to the south-east of the capital, with the object of drawing -the attention of the royalists in that direction. The ruse succeeded -admirably; the small detachment of men carried every thing before them, -penetrating as far as the plaza, and then retreated, according to -instructions, to rejoin the main body. Enraged at their audacity, the -Spanish commander at Barinas sent out a large force in pursuit of the -attacking party, thus weakening his own force. Paez then advanced -against Barinas, disposing his line of march in single file, each -horseman followed by his spare horse, tied to the tail of his own -sumpter. The object of this arrangement was to deceive the royalists -also in regard to the real numbers of the enemy, which from a distance -presented a very imposing appearance. Barinas is situated on the border -of an extensive plain, bounded on the south by the <i>mesa</i> of the same -name, through which Paez made his entry into the doomed city when the -sun was in the meridian. The dreaded army of “departed spirits” did not -produce a more<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a>{342}</span> appalling consternation among the royalists than the -apparition of this unexpected body of ragged horsemen. They knew full -well that, owing to the overflow of the savannas, no advance could be -made upon the city from the south. They felt equally secure against any -attack from the north and from the east, which were then entirely under -their control, while on the west they were still better protected by the -lofty Sierra Nevada. Without stopping to ascertain the real character of -the force before them, the royalists collected together in a great hurry -whatever valuables they prized most, and had already loaded several -mules with them, when the enemy, dashing forward in full gallop, arrived -in time to secure the rich booty, after dispersing the owners and their -troops. The half-clad followers of Paez then fell upon the stores and -abandoned houses of the royalists with the eagerness of men who had not -seen a respectable garment in a long time. One of the officers was -fortunate enough to capture a mule loaded with thirty thousand dollars -in gold, while every man in the party got more goods than he could -carry.</p> - -<p>Paez only remained a sufficient time at Barinas to arrange the -transportation of the booty, which took up nearly all the spare horses -brought along for this purpose; without these and the hides seized at -Canaguá, it would have been impossible to remove it to the patriot camp -in the wilderness. Owing to the presence of a strong flotilla of -gunboats at the mouth of the river, the captured vessel had to be -abandoned after a while, and the wearisome route across the inundated -savannas resumed by the returning caravan.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a>{343}</span> The hides served the double -purpose of covering for the goods and lighters to ferry them over the -streams. This species of leather canoe is an ingenious contrivance -frequently resorted to in those wild regions wherever there is a -scarcity of boats, and consists in a bag or trough formed by passing a -rope through a number of holes round the rim of the hide, and gathering -it over the goods. One end of the rope of sufficient length is then -handed over to a good swimmer, who takes it between his teeth and tows -the lighter after him. In this manner, the immense booty obtained at -Barinas was successfully transported over one hundred miles of inundated -plains, to the inconceivable joy of the wretched emigrants at the camp -of Arichuna.</p> - -<p>After allowing his troop sufficient time to rest from their fatigues, -and finding it to his advantage to resume the offensive, at least to -occupy the attention of his soldiers, Paez commenced his march toward -Achaguas, although the season was still very severe. The march was slow, -as, besides the difficulties of the road, they were encumbered by -numerous emigrants, and compelled, at every step, to procure supplies on -account of the want of stores. The great multitude of men, women, and -children, moving with the army, represented to the life the picture of a -nomadic people without home or country, who, after consuming the -resources of the district they have occupied, raise their tents to -conquer another.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> In this manner they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a>{344}</span> arrived at the sand hills or -Médanos de Araguayuna, where, having left the emigrants under the -protection of a resolute band of horsemen, Paez incorporated all the men -capable of bearing arms in his ranks, and marched against Lopez, whom he -supposed to be at Achaguas. But after proceeding a short distance, he -learned that the enemy, to the number of seventeen hundred horsemen and -four hundred infantry, was at the cattle farm called Yagual. Paez then -changed his course and took his position between the enemy and the city -of Achaguas. His army was divided into three columns, commanded by -Generals Urdaneta and Servier, and by Colonel Santander; they were -nearly all armed with lances, very few with muskets or carabines, and -the supply of ammunition was scanty. On the 8th of October, they came in -sight of the enemy, and although their number much exceeded that of the -patriot forces, Paez did not hesitate to give them battle. The conflict -was long and severe, but it was decidedly in favor of the patriots. Don -Francisco Lopez was compelled to abandon his position, after sustaining -a severe loss; on the next day he refused to renew the battle, and fell -back upon Achaguas, having previously shipped on the river Arauca all -his artillery and wounded for San Fernando. On the 13th, Lopez, having -made a short resistance, abandoned the town, of which Paez took -possession. Shortly after this, Lopez being attacked by surprise on the -banks of the Apure, was utterly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a>{345}</span> defeated, his forces dispersed, and he -himself lost his life.</p> - -<p>At the head of his brave soldiers, Paez rescued the province of Apure, a -part of that of Barinas, in Venezuela, and recovered that of Casanare, -in New Granada. Having increased his force by the new levies raised in -these provinces and in others, he formed that army which subsequently -rendered such important services in the cause of freedom, and whose -exploits have been so much admired.</p> - -<p>It is not my purpose to enter here into a detailed account of the events -of that epoch; the limits of this chapter, and the relationship existing -between the author and the subject of this hasty sketch, preclude the -possibility of such an undertaking, especially when better pens have -compiled them in the <i>Encyclopædia Britannica</i>—articles, Colombia and -Bolívar; in the <i>American Cyclopædia</i>—articles, Paez and Venezuela; -also in <i>Campaigns and Cruises in Venezuela</i>, and various other works by -English officers who served in the ranks of the patriot armies at the -time, to which English and American readers of history are especially -referred for a more comprehensive view of that fearful struggle. My -object is to give my readers some idea respecting the nature of that -contest in that part of Venezuela which, after years of unheard-of -privations and almost insurmountable difficulties, furnished at last the -elements which decided the fate of Colombia upon the plains of Carabobo, -Junin, and Boyacá.</p> - -<p>Vain were, after this, the efforts of the Spanish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a>{346}</span> invaders to destroy -what they contemptuously called the <i>Gang of Apure</i>, in their official -documents. Several expeditions were despatched from Spain about this -time, under the command of the ablest generals, and provided with all -the material for a vigorous campaign. One of these, led by -Lieut.-General Don Pablo Morillo, set sail from Cadiz on the 18th of -February, 1815. It consisted of sixty-five transport ships and other -smaller vessels, convoyed by the line-of-battle ship San Pedro Alcantara -(lost afterwards during the blockade of the Island of Margarita), -mounting seventy-four guns. The total number of men composing this -expedition, including marines, amounted to fifteen thousand. The ships -carrying this formidable armament cast anchor, on the third of April, -1815, in Puerto Santo, to the windward of Carupano, in Venezuela. -Morillo, the commander of this expedition, was a brave, active, and -energetic officer, cool in action, a severe disciplinarian, and was -beloved by his soldiers. Besides this force, there was a royalist army -of five thousand men in Venezuela, commanded by Morales.</p> - -<p>At first, General Morillo met with little or no opposition, until, going -to the interior, he encountered the wild horsemen of the plains. The -haughty temper of the Spanish commander-in-chief could not bear that a -handful of demi-savages, as he was pleased to style them, should insult -the pennant of Castile any longer, and he therefore prepared to capture -every one of them, with what results, the sequel of this narrative will -show.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a>{347}</span></p> - -<p>In the early part of January, 1817, the Spanish commanders, La Torre and -Calzada, effected a junction at Guasdualito, on the plains of Apure. -About the same time, the royalist brigadier, Don Ramon Correa, and -Lieutenant-Colonel Don Salvador Gorrin, left San Fernando, and with -their cavalry and infantry attacked the line of the patriots, and -completely routed Guerrero, the republican general, forcing him to fall -back upon Paez, after a bloody battle, in which the patriots sustained a -considerable loss. The siege of San Fernando being raised in consequence -of this triumph, the attention of La Torre and Calzada was directed to -Paez, who presented the greatest obstacle to their occupation of the -river Apure and its adjacent plains. An army of four thousand veteran -soldiers of all arms, including seventeen hundred of the cavalry -commanded by Colonel Remijio Ramos, presented a force sufficient to -inspire the Spanish commander with confidence, particularly as La Torre, -who was a brave and accomplished soldier, was anxious to distinguish -himself among his companions in arms. He, therefore, marched to the town -of San Vicente, following the right bank of the river Apure, with the -intention of attacking Paez, who was then in Mantecal. On the 28th of -January, the patriots and royalists met on the plain of Mucuritas; the -former, with a body of cavalry amounting only to eleven hundred -horsemen, and the latter with the forces already mentioned. The result -of the engagement was as unfortunate to La Torre as it proved -advantageous to the patriots under Paez, who on this occasion made up -for his inferiority in numbers by means of a stratagem<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a>{348}</span> which nearly -resulted in the destruction of the entire Spanish army. The order of -battle adopted by the royalist leader was the best which the nature of -the ground and the enemy he had to contend with would permit; his -infantry presented a strong and compact front, while his cavalry was -posted on the wings and on the rear. Paez having only cavalry, could not -come within the range of the enemy’s muskets without running the risk of -being wholly destroyed; and he consequently conceived the idea of -separating the royalist horse from the infantry. The presumptuous -confidence of Colonel Ramos and the inexperience of La Torre in the -Llanero’s tactics, facilitated the execution of Paez’s plan. Having -formed two columns with a portion of his forces, Paez ordered them to -attack the enemy’s flanks, and then immediately to retreat, as if they -had been repulsed. His object was to draw out the enemy’s cavalry in the -heat of the pursuit, and at once surround them with two other columns, -which he had ready prepared for that purpose. This simple manœuvre -had the desired effect, and La Torre’s cavalry was speedily destroyed. -The European hussars alone escaped, because they advanced with less -precipitancy and in better order. The republican leader now ordered the -dry grass of the plain to be set on fire, and it instantly became a sea -of flame. Fortunately for La Torre, his infantry retreating -precipitately in close column, succeeded in reaching a spot which had -been burned some time before. Even there his infantry sustained several -charges from Paez’s cavalry, compelling him ultimately to seek a refuge -in a dense wood on the right bank of the Apure,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a>{349}</span> where the pursuit -ceased for want of infantry on the part of the patriots. Of this battle, -General Morillo wrote: “Fourteen consecutive charges upon my wearied -battalions convinced me that these men were not a small gang of cowards, -as had been represented to me.” On the following morning Morillo joined -La Torre, and continued with him his march to San Fernando without -crossing the Apure, and always in sight of the republican cavalry; Paez -finally perceiving that the enemy avoided a new engagement, retired to -San Juan de Payara.</p> - -<p>In 1817, General Bolívar appeared in the province of Guayana, and his -first effort was to open his communication with Paez, who did not -hesitate to recognize his authority, although widely separated from the -Liberator’s head-quarters.</p> - -<p>From this period the patriots began to extend their operations; a series -of brilliant actions took place at various points, and the republican -cause appeared to revive on the line of the Apure and the Orinoco -rivers. The acquisition of Guayana under Piar was an important and -decisive event in the history of the war; by means of it, Bolívar was in -a situation to harass the posts occupied by the royalists, on any point -of the immense line embraced by the Orinoco and its numerous -tributaries.</p> - -<p>In the latter part of January, 1818, Bolívar joined him with two -thousand five hundred disciplined troops, among them the famous British -legion lately arrived, increasing the republican forces to about ten -thousand infantry and the same number of cavalry, which last was -composed of well-trained men, accustomed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a>{350}</span> to victory on the plains of -Apure. The plan of the campaign having been arranged between Bolívar and -Paez, they resolved to cross over the river Apure and march forthwith on -Calabozo, where Morillo had established his headquarters. But here a -great difficulty presented itself; the patriot forces had no boats in -which to cross that broad and deep river. It was then that Paez -conceived and executed the extraordinary plan of capturing with cavalry -the gun-boats of the enemy stationed on the river, opposite the point -toward which they were marching. An eye-witness and impartial foreigner, -attached to the British Legion, thus describes this hazardous -undertaking: “Bolívar stood on the shore gazing at these (the gun-boats) -in despair, and continued disconsolately parading in front of them, when -Paez, who had been on the look-out, rode up and inquired the cause of -his disquietude. His Excellency observed, ‘I would give the world to -have possession of the Spanish flotilla, for without it I can never -cross the river, and the troops are unable to march.’ ‘It shall be yours -in an hour,’ replied Paez. ‘It is impossible,’ said Bolívar, ‘and the -men must all perish.’ ‘Leave that to me,’ rejoined Paez, and galloped -off. In a few minutes he returned, bringing up his guard of honor, -consisting of 300 lancers selected from the main body of the Llaneros, -for their proved bravery and strength, and leading them to the bank, -thus briefly addressed them: ‘We must have these <i>flecheras</i>, or die. -Let those follow Tio<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> who please.’</p> - -<p><a name="ill_28" id="ill_28"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b350b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b350b_sml.jpg" width="514" height="300" alt="Image unavailable: CAPTURE OF SPANISH GUNBOATS BY LLANERO CAVALRY." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CAPTURE OF SPANISH GUNBOATS BY LLANERO CAVALRY.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a>{351}</span></p> - -<p>And at the same moment, spurring his horse, dashed into the river and -swam towards the flotilla. The guard followed him with their lances in -their hands, now encouraging their horses to bear up against the current -by swimming by their sides and patting their necks, and then shouting to -scare away the alligators, of which there were hundreds in the river, -till they reached the boats, when, mounting their horses, they sprang -from their backs on board them, headed by their leader, and, to the -astonishment of those who beheld them from the shore, captured every one -of them. To English officers, it may appear inconceivable that a body of -cavalry, with no other arms than their lances, and no other mode of -conveyance across a rapid river than their horses, should attack and -take a fleet of gun-boats amidst shoals of alligators; but, strange as -it may seem, it was actually accomplished, and there are many officers -now in England who can testify to the truth of it.”</p> - -<p>The unprejudiced author of this narrative, which I am compelled to -shorten for want of space, then adds:—“In short, he is altogether a -most wonderful man; and were the numerous and extraordinary incidents of -his life to be formed into a narrative, it would have more the semblance -of romance than authentic biography. He is, above all things, a sincere -patriot, and certainly a bright ornament to his country.”<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a>{352}</span></p> - -<p>This dangerous manœuvre was performed at a distance of two miles from -San Fernando, which, from that moment, was cut off from all -communication with Morillo. The patriot army being thus provided with -the means of transportation across the Apure, a body of cavalry was -immediately despatched in the direction of the road leading to Calabozo, -and succeeded in capturing by surprise a party of twenty-five men, who -composed the advanced post of the enemy. In consequence of this -manœuvre, Morillo was also taken by surprise on the 11th of February, -at a time when his hussars and a portion of the battalion of Castille -were at a place called Mision de Abajo, about three miles to the south -of Calabozo. Only a few men from both regiments, with a Colonel, -succeeded in making their escape to the intrenchments in the city. The -sturdy veteran, Morillo, could not believe the report of his Colonel, -that the whole patriot army was marching upon him. Haughtily accusing -that officer of cowardice, he sallied forth in person with his staff to -reconnoitre what he supposed to be a band of guerrillas; but he himself -had to flee for safety into the city, narrowly escaping death through -the stoical heroism of his insulted Colonel, who threw himself between -the Commander-in-chief and the lance of one of Paez’s staff officers.</p> - -<p>Instead of investing the royalists at once, Bolívar committed the error -of encamping for the night with all his troops at the village of El -Rastro, about four miles this side of Calabozo. Morillo improved<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a>{353}</span> this -opportunity to abandon the city under cover of night, and fell back on -Caracas, by the mountainous route of El Sombrero, where the patriots -could not follow him on account of the inferiority of their infantry. -Paez then returned to the Apure, while Bolívar remained with the bulk of -the army, to be soon after entirely annihilated at La Puerta by the -royalist General. But the Genius of the Andes was untiring in his -efforts to see his country, and the rest of the South American -Continent, free from European oppression.</p> - -<p>On the 16th January, 1819, Bolívar joined Paez again at San Juan de -Payara with a newly organized <i>corps d’armée</i>, and their united forces -amounted to four thousand men. Bolívar, as a recompense for the -important services rendered by Paez to his country, raised him to the -rank of General of Division, and left him in command of all the forces, -while he proceeded to Angostura, where Congress was to meet in February. -About this time the royalist Generals, Morillo and La Torre, also joined -their forces at San Fernando, amounting in all to six thousand five -hundred men of all arms. With these they immediately proceeded to attack -the patriots at San Juan in the beginning of February. Paez retreated -toward the Orinoco, transported all his infantry to the island of -Urbana, and took up a position, with his guard and two squadrons of -carabineers, at Cunaviche; the remainder of his horsemen he stationed on -the plains of Rio Claro, and a most cumbersome emigration of ten -thousand patriot refugees, that followed his camp, was taken to -Araguaquen. The plan adopted by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a>{354}</span> Paez on this occasion was precisely the -same as the one always practised by him in former campaigns; yet the -royalist General was so infatuated by his eagerness to destroy the “Gang -of Apure,” that he was easily led away into the wilderness before he was -conscious of his danger. On the 11th of February Morillo forced the pass -of the river Arauca, and the patriots fell back, keeping their adversary -under observation; at night, however, they retraced their steps, and in -the morning appeared situated at a short distance in the opposite -direction. Morillo counter-marched, and for many days wandered over that -wilderness, renewing his efforts to overtake an enemy which kept -constantly before him, like the mirage of the desert, and which did him -great injury by driving away the cattle. The only means he could employ -to overtake his opponent and force him to battle, was to use his -cavalry; but this jeopardized the only force which procured the -subsistence of the army, and might thus compromise its safety. Not even -at night were the royalists allowed to rest in peace. On one occasion -Paez caused a number of wild horses to be brought before the enemy’s -camp, and tying dry hides to the animals’ tails, they were stampeded -with shouts and shots towards the encampment. Imagining themselves -attacked by the whole Llanero cavalry, the royalists sprang to their -arms and opened fire on the affrighted horses, which caused that night -more alarm and confusion among them than the two thousand oxen which -Hannibal hurled against the Roman camp. At length, convinced of the -inutility of his efforts,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a>{355}</span> Morillo recrossed the Arauca, and in the -early part of March established his headquarters at Achaguas.</p> - -<p>On the first day of April, General Morillo again resumed the offensive, -marching along the left bank of the Arauca and approaching the position -occupied on the right bank by Generals Paez and Bolívar; the latter had -recently returned from the Congress at Angostura, where he had been -elected President of the Republic, and resumed the command in chief of -the army. Morillo made several feigned movements to the right and to the -left, as if he wished to cross the river, and at noon of the 2d, took up -his position nearly opposite that of Bolívar, out of range of the -cannon. For the purpose of drawing him forth, General Paez crossed the -river with one hundred and fifty horsemen, composed mostly of officers -who volunteered for the hazardous undertaking; with these he formed -three small columns and advanced upon the enemy. Morillo immediately put -all his forces in motion; his infantry and artillery commenced firing, -while the cavalry charged upon the small band of patriots, hoping to -overpower by numbers the weak columns of the enemy; he himself directed -his course toward the bank of the river. Paez, in the mean time, -retreated in order, purposely leaving the pass of the river on his rear. -Morillo, observing this, and supposing him inevitably lost, detached -from the army all the cavalry in pursuit of Paez, and directed his fire -upon the right bank, defended by some light troops. As soon, however, as -the republican General perceived that the enemy’s horse were at a -considerable distance from the army, and in disorder, he faced<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a>{356}</span> about -suddenly, attacked his pursuers in front and on the flanks, in small -groups of twenty men, and without giving them time to recover from their -astonishment or to re-form the lines, he routed them, occasioning great -loss. In vain they made the most obstinate resistance—in vain the -carabineers dismounted—all their efforts were useless; disconcerted and -taken by surprise, all those who opposed the vigorous attack were killed -upon the spot. The victors pursued the remnants of the force as far as -the enemy’s lines, slaying all whom they overtook. Their infantry, -thrown into confusion, sought refuge in the woods, the artillery ceased -firing, and night prevented the further destruction of the royalist -army. On the day following this encounter, Bolívar issued a decree, -conferring the cross of Liberators (<i>Libertadores</i>) on all the officers, -sergeants, corporals, and soldiers, who fought in this engagement, known -in history by the name of Queseras del Medio; while the following -proclamation announced to the army the success recently obtained by the -republican arms:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p class="c">SIMON BOLÍVAR PRESIDENT, <span class="smcap">Etc.</span>, <span class="smcap">Etc.</span></p> - -<p class="nind">“<i>To the Heroes of the Army of Apure</i>:</p> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">Soldiers!</span> You have just performed the most extraordinary action -that can be recorded in the military history of nations—one -hundred and fifty men, or, rather, one hundred and fifty heroes, -led on by the undaunted General Paez, have deliberately attacked in -front the whole Spanish army, under Morillo;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a>{357}</span> artillery, infantry, -cavalry, nothing availed to defend the enemy from the hundred and -fifty companions of the intrepid Paez. The columns of their cavalry -have disappeared under the strokes of our lances; their infantry -sought a shelter in the woods; the roar of their cannon was -silenced before the breasts of our horses, and only the darkness of -night preserved the army of the tyrant from complete and absolute -destruction.</p> - -<p>“Soldiers! The deed you have performed is but the prelude of what -you can accomplish. Prepare then for the combat, and reckon on -victory, which you carry on the point of your lances and bayonets.</p> - -<p class="r"> -“<span class="smcap">Bolívar.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="c"> -<small>“<span class="smcap">Head-quarters at Potreritos Marrereños</span>, April 3, 1819.”</small><br /> -</p></div> - -<p>After this engagement, Morillo, finding himself again deprived of his -cavalry in the heart of the savannas, retreated precipitately to -Achaguas, and finally to San Fernando, which place he fortified -strongly, and recrossing the Apure, sought a more advantageous position -against the attacks of his hovering enemy.</p> - -<p>The engagement of Queseras del Medio was the precursor of new plans and -bold projects, combined between Bolívar and Paez. The plains of -Venezuela, being now entirely rescued from the enemy, these two Generals -arranged the dangerous and important expedition that was to give freedom -to New Granada. Paez had the honor accorded him of choosing which of the -two should command the expedition. They both agreed that Bolívar should -march into New<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a>{358}</span> Granada, and that Paez should preserve, at all risks, -the possession of the plains of Apure. Victory crowned the republican -arms in New Granada, and Paez resolutely and successfully defended the -important territory confided to his care and protection.</p> - -<p>On the 17th December, 1819, Venezuela and New Granada were united into -one great republic, under the name of Colombia, with a territory -embracing nearly 500,000 square miles.</p> - -<p>The year 1821 is celebrated for the important victory obtained by the -republican army, under Bolívar and Paez, on the field of Carabobo, which -secured Venezuela to the patriots. General Bolívar’s forces amounted to -6,000 men. Only the first division of the army, commanded by Paez, took -part in the battle. This division was composed of the gallant British -Legion, already alluded to, the battalion of Apure, and 1,500 horsemen. -The field of Carabobo is a vast and open plain, lying in a southerly -direction from Valencia. An army endeavoring to enter this plain from -Tinaquillo, as the patriot army was attempting to do, is obliged, after -passing the river Chirgua, to penetrate over the defile called Buena -Vista, lying to the northeast. This defile is a formidable position, on -which a few men can easily arrest the progress of an army. If this pass -be gained, and the many obstructions be overcome, which an enemy can -easily oppose over a rough and craggy road of considerable length, there -still remains a narrow valley to be traversed, formed by hills, which -constitute the entrance on the west to the plain of Carabobo; here the -level ground commences. General La Torre,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a>{359}</span> the Spanish commander, had -stationed in the valley and on both sides on the hills commanding it, -several pieces of artillery, as well as strong bodies of infantry. On -the plain near the opening of the valley the extended line of infantry -was deployed in order of battle, with its right resting upon a thicket; -next followed another line, and between the flanks of both, there were -two strong bodies of cavalry. The second line of battle had on its left -the road to El Pao, and the cavalry on the same side was stationed on -the brow of a hill over which that road passes; the summit of the hill -was occupied by a battalion. Such was the military position of the -Spanish forces, amounting on this occasion to 9,000 men. On the 24th of -June, the patriot General occupied the defile, and from that place -observed the position of the enemy. The narrow road pursued by Bolívar -allowed him only the room necessary to file off, and the Spaniards not -only guarded the outlet into the plain, but commanded the valley with -their artillery and a large body of infantry. The position was -impregnable. It was therefore resolved that General Paez, with -considerable risk and difficulty, should penetrate through a foot-path -but little known, and turn the enemy’s right. This path was extremely -hazardous. It begins at the high road leading to San Carlos, to the west -of the valley; goes over the top of a small hill covered with woods, -which was commanded by the Spanish artillery, and leads into a ravine -where the men were compelled to pass singly, because it was very rough -and full of brambles and briars. When the enemy discovered the movement -of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a>{360}</span> advancing forces under Paez, he directed part of his own against -the latter, and some of his battalions came up to the ravine, as the -patriot battalion of Apure was beginning to pass it, and a vigorous -firing commenced and was continued on both sides. The republican corps -at last succeeded in passing the ravine, but no longer able to sustain -singly the enemy’s charge, was already giving way, when the British -Legion came up to their support. The enemy had by this time brought into -action four of his best battalions, against only one of the patriots. -But the gallant Britons now filed off and formed in order of battle, -under a murderous fire, with almost superhuman coolness, and kneeling -down, they could not be made to yield an inch of ground. Almost all its -officers were either killed or wounded; but the service rendered by -those brave foreigners was great indeed. Their heroic firmness gave time -for the battalion of Apure to rally and return to the charge, while two -companies of <i>Tiradores</i>, led on by the gallant Heras, came also into -the action. The enemy at last yielded under the simultaneous charge of -the bayonet made by these different corps and fell back upon the cavalry -for support. By this time the body-guard of General Paez, six hundred -strong, had passed the ravine, and charging the enemy’s horse on the -rear of its columns, routed them completely and decided the action on -that memorable day. Only one battalion, the famous Valencey, -successfully repelled the furious charges of the patriot cavalry, which -pursued the royalists as far as Valencia. General La Torre, with the -remnant of his forces, shut himself up in the fortifications<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a>{361}</span> of Puerto -Cabello, which were finally carried by assault on the 7th of November in -the same year by General Paez.</p> - -<p>The victory gained at Carabobo was complete and brilliant, decisive of -the fate of the republic, and glorious to the brave soldiers of Apure, -whose favored leader was raised by Bolívar to the rank of -General-in-chief on the field of battle—an appointment which was -subsequently ratified by Congress “in acknowledgment of his -extraordinary valor and military virtues.” How he afterwards became -Supreme Chief of Venezuela; twice President of the Republic: was -banished by a turbulent party calling themselves <i>Liberales</i>, narrowly -escaping with his life to the United States of America, from whence, -after an exile of ten years, he was recalled, and placed again at the -head of the nation by popular acclamation; became thoroughly disgusted -with the unruly disposition of his countrymen, and returned to end his -days in</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“The land of the free and the home of the brave;”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">he has fully recounted in his Autobiography,<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> recently published in -this country.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a>{362}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">When</span> we were apprised that every thing was ready at the pass, we moved -on from San Pablo with the horses, the cattle following behind by easy -marches, to allow them sufficient time to graze on the rich herbage by -the way.</p> - -<p>On our arrival at Apurito, we found the river quite swollen with the -recent showers and already extending from bank to bank. The first -business was to select among our men and horses the strongest and most -capable of enduring the fatigue and of guiding through the boisterous -waves of the Apure the various lots into which the cattle were divided -for the purpose. Our next step was to assemble at the pass a sufficient -number of canoes with expert paddlers to act in concert with the leading -men and horses, by flanking the swimmers in the river. Two long -palisades, running parallel down to the bank of the river and narrowing -toward the water, had already been constructed; through these the -animals, in lots of two hundred at a time, were driven at full speed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a>{363}</span> -with deafening shouts and earnest goading, while two men, stripped naked -and mounted on two spirited horses without saddles, headed the movement, -plunging headlong into the river pell-mell with the cattle, which were -thus encouraged to swim across. A herd of tame animals was stationed on -the opposite shore to incorporate the swimmers as they came out of the -water. Having done this, the leaders swam back to procure another lot of -animals, a feat they performed for about twenty successive times in the -course of the day. Nevertheless, the task was not so easily accomplished -as was practised with the horses; for it often happened that the bulls -became quite refractory and pugnacious, in which case the men in the -canoes were obliged to hold them by the horns, dragging them along by -main force as they paddled on; at other times the beasts got alongside -of the leading men and horses, and then the danger to both was imminent, -the bulls attacking them in the water; thus many valuable horses were -killed by these infuriated animals, while the men had several narrow -escapes. What with savage bulls, electric eels, crocodiles and -caribes—not to mention other pernicious creatures of the waters and the -broad expanse of the river before them—the task of these bold -adventurers is truly appalling; yet they go to work and accomplish their -task with a willing heart and a perfect <i>nonchalance</i> of every thing -around them. The same might be said also in regard to the noble steeds -which share with them the dangers of the river, acting at the same time -the part of floating bridges to the men, and as decoys to the cattle -during the passage. Their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>{364}</span> powers of endurance, in this instance, are -the more surprising, inasmuch as they are not allowed even a few -moments’ rest after they land, being kept in constant motion the whole -day.</p> - -<p>A number of horsemen with lazos were also stationed along the shore to -secure those bulls which, eluding the vigilance of the men in the -canoes, succeeded in regaining the land; many were drowned, however, in -the attempt, and their carcasses abandoned to the turkey-buzzards, from -an inherent disgust among the people of the Llanos for the flesh of -animals which have not been killed in the usual way. On one or two -occasions, the whole troop rebelled against their drivers and succeeded -in making their escape to their pasture fields, in spite of the horsemen -on shore; others, after reaching the sloping banks across the river -below the pass, were arrested in their flight by the overhanging cliffs, -and finally hurled to a watery grave by the rapid rise of the river.</p> - -<p>Thus the cost of these expeditions, although exceedingly interesting to -those participating in the excitement, is sometimes greater than the -profits arising therefrom, and none but Llaneros, who are accustomed to -live on beef and water, ought to indulge in this truly savage business. -Our loss in horses alone, without reckoning the expenses of the -expedition and the danger to flesh and bone, amounted on this occasion -to about thirty animals, which in round figures, setting the value of -every horse at the minimum price of one hundred dollars, would make the -sum of three thousand dollars; while the value of the cattle itself, -many of which were also lost to us, could hardly be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a>{365}</span> set down at five -dollars a head at that epoch. One of the horses was so valuable, that -our Leader requested the Doctor to attend the wounded animal and -endeavor to save his life if possible. On examination, it was found that -his bowels were partly forced out through the wound; but as he would not -allow any body to touch him, it was resolved to tie his feet; then -passing a pole through the legs of the animal, he was lifted from the -ground in a reverse position, to allow the Doctor to operate more -conveniently. It was already very dark, and the group of Llaneros -lifting the patient, with others holding up lighted torches made of rags -and tallow, and the humorous Esculapius leaning over the struggling -beast, presented a scene ludicrous in the extreme. In spite of the skill -with which he performed the operation, and the humane care of the owner, -the horse expired the same night.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_29" id="ill_29"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b365_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b365_sml.jpg" width="279" height="199" alt="Image unavailable: " /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a>{366}</span></p> - -<p>Three whole days were spent in the laborious occupation of forcing the -cattle across the river. Nor were the nights less diligently employed at -the village in the more entertaining recreation of dancing, flirting and -gambling, according to the tastes and inclinations of our motley -assembly. It must be confessed, however, that the latter had more -incentives for the people of that pastoral region than the shepherd’s -reed and crook. Occasionally a fight would occur during these nocturnal -revelries; but this, beyond some hard words and brandishing of swords -and daggers by moonlight, which rather added to the picturesqueness of -the scene, never ended in any thing very serious.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Caló el chapeo, requirió la espada,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Miró al soslayo, fuése y no hubo nada.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The river was now rising so rapidly, that in order to reach our camp in -the neighborhood of the village, we were obliged to place canoes across -the main street leading to it, for fear of coming in contact with any of -the numerous tenants of that stream. About this time the fish, conscious -of the approaching inundation of the savannas, commence to ascend the -river in search of those places best suited for spawning; and so great -is the number of those that seek a nuptial rendezvous, that the noise -they make in the water can be heard at some distance from the river. -During their migration the water becomes so tainted with their flavor, -that it is unfit to drink or wash in. Desirous of obtaining some live -specimens for sketching, I procured a <i>tarraya</i>, or throw net, which I -requested one of our men to launch near the bank; he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a>{367}</span> did so; but when -he tried to lift it, he found it impossible unassisted, which made us -fear that the net had got entangled among snags at the bottom of the -river. A companion was called to our assistance, and between us three, -we soon brought it up, when, to my astonishment and delight, I found the -net full of <i>coporos</i>, <i>palometas</i>; and other delicacies; the caribes, -however, soon rendered it perfectly useless, which circumstance I -considered a misfortune, as I could not keep the fish long without -spoiling. Next day I was advised by one of the villagers to place three -or four canoes, partly filled with water, across the stream; the fish, -finding their progress arrested by the obstruction, endeavored to jump -over; in doing which they fell in the canoes by hundreds. The -contrivance succeeded so well, that every morning I could depend on a -plentiful supply, both for my sketch-book and the frying-pan. My -attention was particularly attracted this time by a large fish called -the <i>valenton</i>, from its great strength which, as I was informed, -enables him to drag a canoe after him when caught with the hook and -line. A distressing occurrence took place there which nearly cost the -life of a young man while engaged in fishing for the <i>valenton</i>. The -angler and a friend were engaged in conversation, with their lines -thrown carelessly over the sides of the canoe, when the fish seized the -bait and ran off, as he is in the habit of doing. The jerk was so -violent, that the young man was unable to hold the line, and allowed it -to slip through his hands; he was not aware that at the end of the line -there was another hook, which buried itself in the thumb of his right<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a>{368}</span> -hand; the next moment he was violently pitched in the water and dragged -for some distance, when fortunately the line broke, and he was picked up -almost insensible by his companion. During its gambols in the river, the -<i>valenton</i> jumps sometimes three feet clear out of the water, raising a -large volume of spray and striking the surface with its powerful tail in -its fall; so great is the splash, that the noise can be heard a great -distance off, especially in the stillness of the night, when the fish -seems to be more busily engaged in hunting.</p> - -<p>The <i>payara</i> also delights at this time in those jumps so much dreaded -by fishermen,<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> and even by people wearing any red garment about their -persons; for this fish, like the caribe, is said to be attracted by that -color, just as wild bulls are; so much so that it often happens that one -of them springs on people thus attired in the canoes, though it always -pays dearly for its temerity, as, in consequence of the peculiar -structure of its jaws, the fish cannot disentangle itself from the -garment, to which it remains attached until released by the hand of its -intended victim, who is very glad of the chance thus unexpectedly thrown -in his way, for the payara is a most delicious fish, often weighing -twenty and thirty pounds, and withal very beautiful. Of this savage -propensity people avail themselves to capture this fish without hook or -line, on the large rivers, such as the Apure and Orinoco, where they -seem to be most daring; a piece of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a>{369}</span> red flannel, or some other strong -material, tied to the end of a long rod, being sufficient for the sport: -the tempting bait is held over the side of the canoe a few inches above -the surface of the water, and no sooner does the fish perceive the -alluring decoy, than with one spring it seizes it and remains as firmly -attached to it, as if held by an iron bolt; for in addition to its -formidable row of teeth, which are long and sharp as needles, the payara -has on the lower jaw two very much elongated fangs that penetrate the -head through corresponding passages in it which allow the points to -protrude close to the eyes of the fish, and unless it tears off the -piece, as it often does to the naked and arnatto-stained Indian while -paddling his canoe, the payara perishes by its own arms.</p> - -<p>Among the many eventful incidents of <i>la Independencia</i> still fresh in -the memory of our Leader, he relates an anecdote in connection with the -<i>Libertador</i>, Simon Bolívar, in which both these champions of freedom -participated while engaged on an important reconnoissance during the -rainy season. The savannas being, as usual, overflowed for the most -part, and there being no other means of transportation than the frail -canoes of the country, the two chieftains were compelled to travel in -one of these over their inundated domain, with the assistance of two -Indian paddlers. Fish were so numerous, that numbers of them, disturbed -by the strokes of the paddles against the sides of the canoe, jumped in -all directions, while not a few fell amidst the distinguished -passengers. The Libertador who, like almost all great men, had also his -weak points, possessed a very nervous temperament,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a>{370}</span> especially about -little things; therefore he felt quite uneasy at the unceremonious -intrusion from the finny inhabitants of his swampy realms, whose -movements he mistook for a mischievous propensity on their part to -attack the wayfarer. On the other hand, our Leader, who was always ready -to practise a good joke, seized the opportunity to occasionally tip the -canoe so as to make it ship water, and more fish along with it. -Whereupon his companion, who was not aware of the trick practised upon -him, imagining that the fish were becoming bolder as they advanced, -exclaimed in utter despair, “D——n it! <i>Compañero</i>, let us pull back, -for even the fish are savage in this country.”</p> - -<p>When the waters subside, thousands, nay, millions remain struggling in -the ponds and little pools, left on the savannas, where they soon perish -and rot away, tainting the air with their effluvium. Some of them, like -the <i>curito</i>, a species of Silurus, covered with transverse plates -surrounding the body, have the power of living buried in the indurated -mud, from whence they are called to life again by the returning showers. -As they form a most delicious mess, they are eagerly sought by men and -women, who resort to these places armed with wicker baskets, and collect -great numbers of the fish before they are carried away by the increasing -inundation of the savannas.</p> - -<p>A very singular belief, shared likewise, according to Sir Emerson -Tennent, by the people of Ceylon, exists in the Apure respecting fish -falling from the clouds. Alluding to this phenomenon, that ingenious -writer observes: “Both at Galle and Colombo in the southwest monsoon, -fish are popularly believed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a>{371}</span> have fallen from the clouds during -violent showers; but those found on the occasions that give rise to this -belief, consist of smallest fry, such as could be caught up by -water-spouts and vortices analogous to them, or otherwise blown on shore -from the surf; whereas those which suddenly appear in the replenished -tanks and in the hollows which they overflow, are mature and well-grown -fish. Besides, the latter are found under the circumstances I have -described, in all parts of the interior, whilst the prodigy of a -supposed fall of fish from the sky has been noticed, I apprehend, only -in the vicinity of the sea or of some inland water.”</p> - -<p>Although the author further explains the phenomenon on the supposition -that some fish are endowed with the power of locomotion over land, while -others in a torpid state remain buried in the mud until the return of -the rainy season; yet, I have been assured by reliable persons that live -fish have been picked up in places where no such possible contingencies -could occur; for instance, upon the roofs of houses or amidst wide -plains far from running water. Most of those thus found are small, from -three to seven inches long; but none of them capable of living more than -twenty minutes out of water; and the father of the writer once even -witnessed a fall of <i>bocachicos</i>, a fish which seldom lives over five -minutes out of its own element.</p> - -<p>In support of these views, which were embodied in my <i>Wild Scenes in -South America</i>, I now have the pleasure of adding the testimony of no -less an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a>{372}</span> authority than Gosse, who has collected a number of authentic -examples of this phenomenon in his <i>Romance of Natural History</i>. -According to his statements, fish-showers have occurred in all parts of -the world, not even excepting his own country—England,—where, early in -1859, the newspapers of South Wales recorded a shower of fish in the -Valley of Aberdare. The repeated statements attracted more notice than -usual, and the Rev. John Griffith, the vicar of the parish, communicated -the results of his inquiries to the <i>Evening Mail</i>.</p> - -<p>“If now we look to other lands,” continues the author, “we shall find -that the descent of fishes from the atmosphere, under conditions little -understood, is a phenomenon which rests on indubitable evidence. -Humboldt has published interesting details of the ejection of fish in -large quantities from volcanoes in South America. On the night between -the 19th and 20th of June, 1698, the summit of Carguairazo, a volcano -more than 19,000 feet in height, fell in, and the surrounding country -for nearly thirty-two square miles was covered with mud and fishes. A -similar eruption of fish from the volcano of Imbabura was supposed to -have been the cause of a putrid fever which raged in the town of Ibarra -seven years before that period.”</p> - -<p>This is accounted for on the supposition that subterraneous lakes, -communicating with surface-waters, form in cavities in the declivities, -or at the base of a volcano. In the course of time these internal -cavities are burst open by the force of the volcanic explosions, and -their contents discharged through the water.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a>{373}</span></p> - -<p>But the most extraordinary account recorded by Gosse is that of Dr. -Buist, of Bombay, who, after enumerating the cases above cited, and -others of similar character, goes on to say:—“In 1824 fishes fell at -Meerut on the men of her Majesty’s 14th Regiment, then out at drill, and -were caught in numbers. In July, 1826, live fish were seen to fall on -the grass at Moradabad during a storm. They were the common <i>Cyprinus</i>, -so prevalent in our Indian waters. On the 19th of February, 1830, at -noon, a heavy fall of fish occurred at the Nokulhatty factory, in the -Daccah Zillah; depositions on the subject were obtained from nine -different parties. The fish were all dead; most of them were large; some -were fresh; others were rotten and mutilated. They were seen at first in -the sky, like a flock of birds, descending rapidly to the ground; there -was rain drizzling, but no storm. On the 16th and 17th of May, 1833, a -fall of fish occurred in the Zillah of Foottehpoor, about three miles -north of Jumna, after a violent storm of wind and rain. The fish were -from a pound and a half to three pounds in weight, and the same species -as those found in the tanks in the neighborhood. They were all dead and -dry. A fall of fish occurred at Allahabad during a storm in May, 1835; -they were of the chowla species, and were found dead and dry after the -storm had passed over the district. On the 20th of September, 1839, -after a smart shower of rain, a quantity of fish, about three inches in -length, and all of the same kind, fell at the Sunderbunds, about twenty -miles south of Calcutta. On<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a>{374}</span> this occasion it was remarked that the fish -did not fall here and there irregularly over the ground, but in a -continuous straight line, not more than a span in breadth. The vast -multitudes of fish with which the low grounds around Bombay are covered, -about a week or ten days after the first burst of the monsoon, appear to -be derived from the adjoining pools or rivulets, and not to descend from -the sky. They are not, as far as I know, found in the higher parts of -the island. I have never seen them, though I have watched carefully, in -casks collecting water from the roofs of buildings, or heard of them on -the decks or awnings of vessels in the harbor, where they must have -appeared had they descended from the sky. One of the most remarkable -phenomena of this kind occurred during a tremendous deluge of rain at -Kattywar, on the 25th of July, 1850, where the ground around Rajkote was -found literally covered with fish; some of them were found on the top of -haystacks, where probably they had been drifted by the storm. In the -course of twenty-four successive hours twenty-seven inches of rain fell; -thirty-five fell in twenty-six hours, seven inches in one hour and a -half, being the heaviest fall on record. At Poonah, on the 3d of August, -1852, after a very heavy fall of rain, multitudes of fish were caught on -the ground in the cantonments, full half a mile from the nearest stream. -If showers of fish are to be explained on the assumption that they are -carried up by squalls or violent winds from rivers or spaces of water -not far away from where they fall, it would be nothing wonderful were -they seen to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a>{375}</span> descend from the air during the furious squalls which -occasionally occur in July.”</p> - -<p>Sir E. Tennent, before cited, also witnessed in Ceylon another of those -fish-showers:—“I had an opportunity, on one occasion only, of -witnessing the phenomenon which gives rise to this popular belief. I was -driving in the cinnamon gardens near the fort of Colombo, and saw a -violent but partial shower descend at no great distance before me. On -coming to the spot, I found a multitude of small silvery fish, from one -and a half to two inches in length, leaping on the gravel of the high -road, numbers of which I collected and brought away in my palanquin. The -spot was about half a mile from the sea, and entirely unconnected with -any water-course or pool.”<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a></p> - -<p>The same curious fact respecting the habits of certain kinds of fish in -the <i>Llanos</i>, which bury themselves in the mud at the close of the rainy -season, also appears to take place in India and Ceylon; for, according -to Gosse, “the pools, reservoirs, and tanks are well provided with fish -of various species, though the water twice every year becomes perfectly -evaporated, and the mud of the bottom is entirely converted into dust, -or takes the condition of baked clay, gaping with wide and deep clefts, -in which not the slightest sign of moisture can be detected. This is the -case with temporary hollows in the soil, which have no connection with -running streams or permanent waters,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a>{376}</span> from which they might be supposed -to receive a fresh stock of fish.”</p> - -<p>After proving conclusively that these fishes could not proceed from -either the clouds, as the generality of people believe, nor from -impregnated ova, as Mr. Farrell suggests, the author observes:—“Neither -of these hypotheses, then, will account for the fact; and we must admit -that the fishes of these regions, have the instinct to burrow down in -the solid mud of the bottom, at the approach of the dry season, and the -power of retaining life, doubtless in a torpid condition, until the -return of the periodic rains, as Theophrastus long ago observed.”</p> - -<p>But, who ever heard of showers of toads and frogs? Yet, such is the -fact, astonished reader; and were you to visit with me some of the -lagoons and ponds of South America at night, you would not fail to -notice that the air, as well as the earth and waters, seems filled with -the piercing, deafening noise proceeding from them. “According to -travellers in tropical America, the inhabitants of Porto Bello assert -that every drop of rain is changed into a toad; the most instructed, -however, believe that the spawn of these animals is raised with the -vapor from the adjoining swamps, and, being driven in the clouds over -the city, the ova are hatched as they descend in rain. ’Tis certain that -the streets after a night of heavy rain are almost covered with the -ill-favored reptiles; and it is impossible to walk without crushing -them. But heretic philosophers point to the mature growth of the vermin, -many of them being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a>{377}</span> six inches in length, and maintain that the -hypothesis just mentioned will scarcely account for the appearance of -these.”<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a></p> - -<p>But it is not South America alone that can boast of such an -extraordinary phenomenon; for the same accomplished author records -similar showers as occurring in England and various parts of the -Continent: “In two or three of these cases, the toads were not only -observed in countless numbers on the ground during and after heavy -storms of rain, but were seen to strike upon the roofs of houses, -bounding thence into the streets; they even fell upon the hats, and, in -one instance, were actually received into the outstretched hand.”</p> - -<p>It would seem that not even quadrupeds are exempt there, from the same -rule, for we often hear the phrase in English, “If it should rain cats -and dogs,” which I, for want of a better acquaintance with English -phraseology, am at a loss how to interpret. We all know that -stone-showers are not uncommon, especially ever since “the thunderer,” -Jupiter, <i>alias</i> Jove, lost his power among us through the advancing -strides of civilization. Previous to this, we are told of his paying -occasional visits to his lady-loves on earth in the shape of golden -showers, which have been exchanged subsequently for a less costly -material; but showers of “cats and dogs” I do not believe ever occurred, -even to an old sinner like him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a>{378}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Marvellous</span> as the Apure river is in point of living creatures, it is -nothing in comparison with the Orinoco, into which it flows, and the -Amazon river, that connects with the Orinoco through the Casiquiare and -Rio Negro. The recent explorations of Professor Agassiz in the Amazon, -and the former researches of Wallace on the latter river, prove, I hope -conclusively, that my statements concerning the fishes of these regions -are far below the mark in point of numbers, and that there is <i>no end</i> -to the varieties. Wallace, who spent nearly four years on the Rio Negro -collecting objects of natural history for the British Museum, and whose -principal fare consisted of the fish caught by his men, tells us, “I -began now to take a great interest in the beauty and variety of the -species, and, whenever I could, I made accurate drawings and -descriptions of them. Many are of a most excellent flavor, surpassing -anything I have tasted in England, either from the fresh<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a>{379}</span> or the salt -waters; and many species have real fat, which renders the water they are -boiled in a rich and agreeable broth. Not a drop of this is wasted, but, -with a little pepper and <i>farinha</i>, is all consumed, with as much relish -as if it were the most delicate soup.”<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></p> - -<p>And Agassiz, in his interesting lectures on the same subject, says: -“Now, what are the fishes which inhabit the Amazon? for I wanted to say -all this simply as a preparation to give you some definite idea of the -various types of fish which we find in that mighty basin. Not one of -those fishes with which we are familiar in our rivers is to be found -there; not one of those which are known in the rivers of Europe is to be -found there; not one from any other fresh water basin is to be found -there. The Amazon has fishes of its own, utterly different from those of -any other basin, and these fishes are different from those in all other -fresh water rivers of Brazil, and in each part of the Amazon there are -fish of a peculiar character, so that those which inhabit the lower -course of the Amazon differ from those found in the upper. So great is -the variety, that in small lakes of water, at parts of the Amazon, we -find an endless variety. I examined a little lake, just at the junction -of the Rio Negro with the Amazon. The lake was only a few hundred yards -in extent, and in that pool, for it was hardly anything more, I found in -the course of two months over two hundred different kinds of fish, and -three<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a>{380}</span> times larger than can be found in the Mississippi or in the -Senegal or Ganges or Nile. The number of fish found in the whole basin -of the Amazon is not less than two thousand different kinds, that is, -ten times as many as were known about a century ago to exist in the -whole world. And strange to say, it would seem that, in proportion as we -become acquainted with a larger number of these animals they should be -found to resemble one another more and more. On the contrary, however, -such are the peculiarities of their features, such is the infinite -number of circumstances which brings about differences among them, that -in proportion as I find a larger and larger number, I find the -difference between them seems to grow, and though it appears -paradoxical, it is strictly true.”</p> - -<p>And returning now to the Orinoco, the good missionary and -historiographer of that noble river, Father Gumilla, tells us that “So -great is the multitude of fishes and turtles, that the slime, excrements -and continual blood shed by those which devour or wound each other, is -the principal cause of the heaviness and bad taste of the water of the -Orinoco, which is also the case in some of the rivers of Hungary, and -can be more readily perceived in basins or reservoirs devoted to the -preservation of live fish, where the water soon becomes tainted and -unpalatable, although it may go in and out freely.</p> - -<p>“What astonishes still more is the novelty of the species and curious -shapes of these fishes, so different from those of our Europe, for not -even the sardinas have the flavor nor the shape of these. All that we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a>{381}</span> -can say, after a careful examination of these fishes, is, this one -resembles somewhat the trout, that one the sole, etc.; but no one can -say with certainty this is like any in Europe. But what of it, when it -is a fact that the fish found in the waters of the <i>tierra caliente</i> are -totally different from those of the <i>tierra fria</i>?”</p> - -<p>Of the modes of fishing practised by the Indians of his Mission, he also -tells us many curious devices. “Observe,” he says, “those four canoes, -manned by the boys of the Doctrina, and darting side by side along the -river; well, this is the most novel and the most curious mode of fishing -ever devised, as the fishes here called Bocachicos, Palometas, Lizas, -Sardinas, and many other kinds of smaller fry, jump of their own accord -into the canoes in such quantities that, were not the paddlers expert -enough and their craft propelled with such rapidity, these would soon -fill up and sink with the weight of the fish that fall in them; for each -kind has its proper season for spawning, and with the object of saving -some of their ova to multiply their species, they have been taught by -the Supreme Author of Nature to quit their haunts and seek some -convenient eddy, where, placing their tails against the current, they -receive in their gills the little eggs which may chance to fall in them; -and these are the only ones saved, the rest being devoured by other -fishes, whose numbers at and near these currents is immense, one shoal -crowding on the top of another.”</p> - -<p>In the rivers and streams of minor importance, where fish are not so -abundant, the natives, by way<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a>{382}</span> of pastime, and also to vary their fare, -avail themselves of the roots of two plants—the <i>cuna</i> and the -<i>barbasco</i>,<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> both of which possess the singular peculiarity of -intoxicating fish, even when the smallest quantity of the juice of the -roots is thrown in the stream, producing such commotion among the finny -inhabitants, that they fall an easy prey to the Indians, who take a -special delight in this wholesale slaughter. The <i>cuna</i> is a small -plant, somewhat like clover, producing a bulbous root like a small -turnip, but with very different smell and taste, and the <i>barbasco</i>, a -vine, very common in all parts of the country, and although both are -exceedingly deleterious to fish, they are not so to other creatures. The -process is very simple: A quantity of the roots or vines is slightly -pounded with a wooden mallet and thrown in the water, and no sooner do -the fish perceive the smell of it, than they rush frantically up and -down the stream to avoid its contact; those which take the former course -find their progress arrested by a file of Indians, who, armed with -poles, beat about the water to turn them back, which they quickly do, -but only to find their retreat cut off in that direction too, for their -cunning assailants have already taken the precaution to bar the stream -with a double row of stakes, the lower one higher than the upper. Not -discouraged in the least, the larger and stronger fish make another rush -up the stream; but no sooner do they come in contact with the noxious -herb than they retreat again towards the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a>{383}</span> barricade, and here, -redoubling their energies, leap over the first row of stakes, and thus -find themselves entrapped within the narrow limits of the stockade. In -the meantime the smaller fish, having neither the strength nor the -courage to save themselves, become thoroughly intoxicated with the -juices already disseminated in the water, and fall an easy prey to the -joyous urchins, who pounce upon them, and transfer them to the baskets -they carry for the purpose. This is a very amusing mode of fishing, and -during the excitement produces much merriment among the Indians; now a -fish slaps a redskin on the face with its tail; another one strikes -against the bare ribs of some one else, which never fails to draw peals -of laughter from their companions, who, in turn, become themselves the -laughing-stock of the others from similar mishaps.</p> - -<p>But the most amusing contrivance practised by these people with the -<i>cuna</i> is the following: An Indian takes a quantity of boiled maize and -grinds it to paste; one half of it is thoroughly incorporated with the -<i>cuna</i>, while the other half he reserves as a decoy to attract the fish -to a particular spot: he then calls his children, who, armed with -baskets, follow their father to the stream; here the fisherman commences -to throw small pellets of the unprepared paste in the water, which never -fails to attract great numbers of sardines, palometas, and other -delicacies, and changing suddenly his tactics, he exchanges the harmless -bait for the other, which no sooner is swallowed by the fish, than they -commence to turn somersaults in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a>{384}</span> air, with other antics no less -amusing to the boys, who as quickly transfer them to their baskets. It -is almost incredible the amount of fish that is thus procured in a short -time, enabling a poor Indian not only to supply the wants of his family, -but to afford his children a lively recreation.</p> - -<p>Still another mode of fishing, equally ingenious, is practised by the -Indians when the waters commence to ebb towards the Orinoco at the end -of the great floods, by means of strong stockades thrown across the -outlet of the great lagunas, which are the receptacle of immense -quantity of larger game, such as turtles and vagres (species of catfish) -weighing from fifty to seventy-five pounds; laulaus or valentones, from -two hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds; and above all, -innumerable manatís, from five hundred to one thousand pounds. European -Spaniards call this animal <i>Vaca Marina</i>, or sea cow, and the Brazilians -<i>Peixe Boi</i>, ox-fish, from its feeding on grass, and other peculiarities -which assimilate it to the bovine species. The manatí abounds in the -Apure, the Meta, and most of the large tributaries of the Orinoco below -the cataracts, and more especially in the lagoons formed by these rivers -during the season of great floods, which he prefers on account of the -abundant and tender food they offer them. Of this the astute Indians -avail themselves to entrap them, as no sooner do the waters commence to -fall than they watch attentively the channel through which the lake they -have chosen as a fish-magazine—for no better name can be applied, from -the finny multitude they secure there<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a>{385}</span> for months—is likely to drain -off. To this spot resort the entire population of the village or tribe, -who immediately commence to cut stakes of the requisite length and of -great thickness, to resist the onset of the formidable phalanxes of -monster fishes seeking a passage to the river. The stakes are then -driven in the bed of the channel close enough to permit only the exit of -the water and of the smaller fish, excluding the turtles and the fish of -greater magnitude. The stockade is further reinforced by cross-beams of -great strength thrown across the channel, firmly secured at both ends, -and resting against the stakes; and for greater security they further -strengthen them by an outer row of trunks of trees driven in the ground -close to the stockade. It may appear superfluous to take such -precautions against the apparently defenceless hosts imprisoned within -the boundaries of the lagoon; but so great and powerful are in fact the -avalanches of manatís struggling against this formidable barrier, that -it is often found necessary to reinforce it twice, and even three times -in the course of the season.</p> - -<p>Indeed it is scarcely credible, the number and size of the creatures -secured in this manner, whole tribes of Indians subsisting for months -together on the supply afforded by one of these reservoirs; but as these -lagoons eventually drain off towards the close of the rainy season, and -the Indians cannot exhaust them in spite of their insatiate voracity, -they are compelled at last, though reluctantly, to remove the -obstruction in time to allow the fish to return to the bed of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a>{386}</span> -stream before they are cut off from it; and it is asserted that on one -occasion, having neglected this precaution in time, more than three -thousand manatís, and a still greater number of large fish, perished in -the shallow water of one of these lagoons, with the exception only of -the turtles, who were, of course, in their element.</p> - -<p>The manatí is a <i>herbivorous</i> animal of the cetaceous family, of which -the whale is the type, and attains here from twelve to fifteen feet in -length. Some are caught that weigh over a thousand pounds. In shape it -resembles a seal somewhat, though its eyes and auricular organs are -extremely small, but very acute, so much so that great care is required -on the part of the fisherman who goes in pursuit of it, not to strike -the sides of his canoe with the paddle and frighten the game off. Its -principal means of propulsion exist in its tail, which is flat and -round, from three to four feet broad, and very powerful; but it -possesses in addition two pectoral fins, or armlets, situated at a -proportionate distance from the head, and these enable the animal to -come out of the water to browse on the rich herbage by the banks of -rivers and lagoons: these armlets serve the female, in addition, to hold -its young—always two in number, male and female—close to its breasts, -until they are old enough to follow the mother and eat grass, their only -food; and it is a curious fact, that although the mother often -delights—as is the habit of these cetacea—in gambols in the water, -when they sometimes jump several feet out of their element, they never -lose hold of their twins.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a>{387}</span></p> - -<p>The anatomy of this fresh-water whale is very curious, according to -Humboldt, who dissected one while on his way to the Orinoco. “The upper -lip was four inches longer than the lower one. It was covered with a -very fine skin, and served as a proboscis. The inside of the mouth, -which has a <i>sensible</i> warmth in the animal newly killed, presented a -very singular conformation. The tongue was almost motionless; but in -front of the tongue there was a fleshy excrescence in each jaw, and a -cavity lined with a very hard skin, into which the excrescence fitted. -The manatí eats such quantities of grass that we have found its stomach, -which is divided into several cavities, and its intestines (one hundred -and eight feet long) filled with it. Opening the animal at the back, we -were struck with the magnitude, form, and situation of its lungs. They -have very large cells, and resemble immense swimming-bladders. They are -three feet long; filled with air, they have a bulk of more than a -thousand cubic inches. I was surprised to see that, possessing such -receptacles of air, the manatí comes so often to the surface of the -water to breathe. Its flesh is very savory, though, from what prejudice -I know not, it is considered unhealthy and apt to produce fever. It -appeared to me to resemble pork rather than beef. It is most esteemed by -the Guamos and Ottomacs; and these two nations are particularly expert -in catching the manatí. The fat of the animal, known by the name of -manatí-butter (<i>manteca de manatí</i>) is used for lamps in the churches, -and is also employed in preparing food. It has not the fetid smell of -whale<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a>{388}</span> oil, or that of the other cetaceous animals which spout water. -The hide of the manatí, which is more than an inch and a half in -thickness, is cut into slips, and serves, like thongs of ox-leather, to -supply the place of cordage in the Llanos. When immersed in water, it -has the defect of undergoing a slight degree of putrefaction. Whips are -made from it in the Spanish colonies. Hence the words <i>latigo</i> and -<i>manatí</i> are synonymous. These whips of manatí leather are a cruel -instrument of punishment for the unhappy slaves, and even for the -Indians of the Missions, though, according to the laws, the latter ought -to be treated like freemen.”</p> - -<p>The address displayed by an Indian of the Orinoco in capturing with the -harpoon one of these monsters and bringing it into port, with only the -assistance of his wife to paddle and steer the frail canoe, is most -wonderful. While the woman propels the canoe, the man stands erect at -the bow, watching intently the moment when the manatí comes up to the -surface to breathe, which it does every few minutes. Off flies the -double-barbed harpoon from the hands of the fisherman, and implants -itself in the thick hide of the doomed monster, which no sooner feels -the piercing blow, than away it darts at a fearful rapidity, dragging -along after it the frail canoe, to the bow of which is attached one end -of the thong made from the tough hide of the manatí, while to the other -end is firmly secured the iron head of the harpoon itself. After vain -endeavors to avoid the danger that threatens it, now dashing rapidly -against the stream for an hour or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a>{389}</span> so, now seeking the calm surface of a -neighboring lagoon, during which time the sporting couple manage with -difficulty to keep their seats at the bottom of the canoe, holding fast -to the sides of it with both hands, the monster, bleeding and exhausted -after its precipitate flight, begins at last to slacken its pace, and -finally stops altogether. Now the hunter commences to pull it towards -him with much caution; but no sooner does the animal perceive the -dreaded canoe with its savage occupants, than off it sets anew at the -same lightning speed, though this time of less duration; again the -hunter pulls the game towards him, and again it endeavors to fly from -him; but having lost nearly all its strength, and probably convinced of -the uselessness of further efforts to escape, it now stops, rolls on its -back, and calmly awaits its fate on the surface of the water. By this -time the canoe is alongside of the captive, and, without further -concern, the Indian cuts it open with his knife, and as soon as the -water penetrates to its entrails, the great monster dies without a -struggle. And now, “what shall we do with it,” in the midst of a river -or lagoon four or five miles in width? How is this creature—weighing -perhaps a thousand pounds, and nearly as long as the canoe—to be landed -safely on the shore? How can a single man, assisted only by a frail -woman, without firm ground to set their feet upon, manage to stow away -the cumbrous load? Nothing easier, incredulous reader; “first catch the -hare and then make the soup,” and this the Indian hunter daily practises -in his native wilds, without much culinary advice from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a>{390}</span> Mrs. Glass. -Having secured their game, the hunters, or fishers, plunge in the water, -swimming all the while with their feet and one hand, while with the -other they tip over the canoe until it partly fills with water, which -brings it on a level with the carcass of the manatí; this accomplished, -the rest of the operation is easily done by sliding the canoe under the -carcass, and then baling out the water by means of calabash cups, which -cover their heads in lieu of hats. In proportion as they bale out the -water, the canoe rises above the surface, and when sufficiently high to -permit its being safely navigated through the boisterous waves of the -Orinoco, the husband leaps on the head of the animal and calmly takes -his seat, while the wife does the same on the broad tail of the monster -fish, and directing the bow of the canoe towards the shore, they paddle -themselves along with their cumbrous freight, which is soon disposed of -among the numerous relations and friends, who anxiously await their -arrival on the beach.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_30" id="ill_30"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b390b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b390b_sml.jpg" width="307" height="557" alt="Image unavailable: SCENES AT EL DORADO—(From a photograph.)" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">SCENES AT EL DORADO—(From a photograph.)</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a>{391}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE LAND OF EL DORADO.</span></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i8">“And yet unspoiled<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Guiana, whose great city Geryon’s sons<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a><br /></span> -<span class="i0">Call El Dorado.”—<i>Paradise Lost</i>, Book xi.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Before</span> we quit the shores of the Apure, I will invite the reader to -follow me in imagination, or, better still, in one of the many <i>bongos</i> -trading between this and the Orinoco river, on to the adjoining province -of Guayana, or <i>Guiana</i>, as it is more commonly known among English -writers and explorers. This will give us an opportunity of gliding over -one of the greatest rivers in the world, which nearly encircles a vast -territory hardly known to civilized man, that is just now attracting a -great deal of notice on account of the recent gold discoveries made -there; a country unsurpassed in natural treasures and resources; a sort -of hidden paradise which greedy gold-hunters of former times sought in -vain under the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a>{392}</span> gilded name of <span class="smcap">El Dorado</span>, and which, strange to say, has -remained, like the wealth of California, undiscovered until recently.</p> - -<p>What a train of awful recollections this once magic name of <span class="smcap">El Dorado</span> -brings to mind! What tales of woe, of daring adventure and blasted hopes -it has left behind for the entertainment and raillery of subsequent -generations! And yet, the gallant Raleigh—Sir Walter—like Galileo -before the tribunal of the Inquisition, was right in his belief that -there was gold enough in Guayana to load the entire fleet of Great -Britain in his time.</p> - -<p>But let us not anticipate the narrative of events, which will come, each -one in its turn. Availing ourselves, therefore, of the gentle current of -the Apure, we will proceed on our journey, stopping here and there to -get a shot at the enormous crocodiles—larger than any we have yet -seen—which infest its waters near its confluence with the Orinoco; and -perhaps also at some thirsty jaguar taking its young to drink. Humboldt -has described these scenes so vividly, that I must refer the reader to -the third volume of his “Travels,” Bohn’s edition, for further -information on the subject.</p> - -<p>Proceeding down the river, which here presents the singularity of -becoming narrower, on account of infiltrations through a spongy and -sandy soil, as well as other causes, we come suddenly upon a vast -expanse of waters, presenting all the appearance of an agitated sea, -from the conflict between breeze and current. This is the grand old -river we are in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a>{393}</span> quest of, the Orinoco. “The air resounded no longer -with the piercing cries of herons, flamingos, and spoonbills, crossing -in long files from one shore to the other. Our eyes sought in vain those -water-fowls, the habits of which vary in each climate. Scarcely could we -discover in the hollows of the waves a few large crocodiles, cutting -obliquely, by the help of their long tails, the surface of the agitated -waters. The horizon was bounded by a zone of forests, which nowhere -reached so far as the bed of the river. A vast beach, constantly parched -by the heat of the sun, desert and bare as the shores of the sea, -resembles at a distance, from the effects of the mirage, pools of -stagnant water. In these scattered features, we recognize the course of -the Orinoco, one of the most majestic rivers of the New World.”<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a></p> - -<p>At this point the Orinoco, already enriched with the tribute of the -Guaviare, the Inirida, the Meta, and the Arauca, which, like the Apure, -have their sources amidst the snowy mountains of New Granada, suddenly -changes its course, and, in conjunction with the latter, flows nearly in -a straight line towards the Atlantic, after describing an arc of a -circle around the western portion of Guayana. The vast territory thus -encompassed within its mighty embrace gives rise also to numerous other -rivers hardly inferior in magnitude to the above-named, such as the -Ventuari, the Cuchivero, the Paragua, the Caura, the Caroni, etc., all -of which flow into the Orinoco from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a>{394}</span> south, thus contributing to -swell the volume of its waters to the extent that it presents by the -time it reaches the ocean on the fifteenth meridian of longitude east of -Washington. Our route being in this direction also, we will not follow -the illustrious traveller in his laborious exploration of the Upper -Orinoco, the Casiquiare and the Rio Negro. I would, however, advise -those who are not conversant with his works to read his description of -the <i>Raudales</i>, or Great Rapids of Atures and Maipures, which he has -sketched with a masterly hand in his <i>Tableaux de la Nature</i>. The -following passage, quoted from said work, will convey to the reader some -idea of the magnificence of the river at that point:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“A foaming surface of four miles in length presents itself at once -to the eye: iron black masses of rock, resembling ruins and -battlemented towers, rise frowning from the waters. Rocks and -islands are adorned with the luxuriant vegetation of the tropical -forest; a perpetual mist hovers over the waters, and the summits of -the lofty palms pierce through the clouds of spray and vapor. When -the rays of the glowing evening sun are refracted in their humid -exhalations, a magic optical effect begins. Colored bows shine, -vanish, and reappear; and the ethereal image is swayed to and fro -by the breath of the sportive breeze. During the long rainy season, -the streaming waters bring down islands of vegetable mould, and -thus the naked rocks are studded with bright flower-beds adorned -with melastomas and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a>{395}</span> droseras, and with silver-leaved mimosas and -ferns. These spots recall to the recollection of the European those -blocks of granite decked with flowers which rise solitary amidst -the glaciers of Savoy, and are called by the dwellers in the Alps -‘Jardins,’ or ‘Courtils.’ ”</p></div> - -<p>This is the country of the India-rubber and the Brazil-nut trees, two of -the most stupendous denizens of the tropical forest; of the wild cacao, -the fragrant sarapia, or tonka-bean, the sassafras-laurel, the ananas or -wild pine-apple, and of numberless other useful products, as well as -baneful drugs; for here is gathered the mavacure-vine, from the juice of -which the Indians of this region compound the most virulent poison known -in nature, the <i>curare</i>, which the natives employ most effectively in -procuring game by the aid of their blow-pipes. So quick and certain are -its effects, that an animal wounded by one of the small arrows used for -the purpose drops dead before the creature is hardly conscious of its -danger; and singular enough, no evil effects whatever arise from -partaking of the game thus killed; for the <i>curare</i> is perfectly -harmless when taken internally.</p> - -<p>The Raudales are at present a serious impediment to the free navigation -of the river up to the frontiers of Brazil; although, as Humboldt justly -remarks, this obstruction could be avoided by cutting a canal around -them, the nature of the ground offering ample facilities for this -purpose; but this cannot be done advantageously until the country shall -be better stocked with population than at present.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a>{396}</span></p> - -<p>Proceeding down the stream, the only town of any importance we encounter -on the route is Ciudad Bolívar, formerly Angostura, which is the capital -of the State of Guayana and a mart of considerable trade with the llanos -of Apure, Calabozo, and Barinas. The old name of the city was changed in -honor of the Liberator, Simon Bolívar, who, after expelling the -Spaniards from New Granada, assembled here the first Congress which -proclaimed the union of the republic of Colombia in 1819. Pleasantly -situated on a bluff several feet above the high-water level of the -river, about three hundred miles from the sea, and connected by its -numerous tributaries with a country nearly as large as continental -Europe, Ciudad Bolívar is destined to become the seat of a vast -commerce, when the now almost desert region of Guayana shall have opened -its golden treasures to an enterprising generation. At present it -contains about ten thousand inhabitants; has a fine cathedral, -government house, and very handsome private residences and warehouses. -The business, according to all accounts, has fallen off greatly since -the war of seven years which, under the alleged name of <i>Federacion</i>, -devastated the rest of the republic. Happily for the State of Guayana, -it has always been kept free from these periodical turmoils by the -efforts of some truly patriotic men—among others, John B. Dalla-Costa, -Jr., the present President of the State, under whose enlightened -administration public improvements, roads, hospitals, schools, etc., are -being established, and the nucleus of a foreign immigration started on -the way<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a>{397}</span> to the gold fields. The commercial houses are principally -German, French, and Italian; but of late many Southern refugees from the -United States have been induced to try their fortunes on the banks of -the Orinoco; and, judging from past experience in the rapid development -of California and Australia, through the energies of the Anglo-Saxon -race, the <i>placers</i> of that golden paradise bid fair to become another -centre of commercial intercourse with foreign nations.</p> - -<p>It was from this place that the first expedition in search of El Dorado, -on this side of the continent, set out in 1595. None of those composing -it ever came back, however, to tell the sad tale of their discomfiture -by the fierce tribes of Indians which dwelt on the fine savannas lying -between the Caroni and Paragua rivers, beyond which popular belief, -assisted by the traditions of the aborigines themselves, had settled -definitely the existence of a region abounding in gold. Previous to -this, however, the fame of El Dorado had spread over the western part of -South America, and several expeditions had been fitted out in Venezuela, -New Granada, Quito, and Peru, with the avowed object of conquering the -wealthy empire of the Omeguas, whose sovereign, El Dorado, or the -“gilded king,” was represented as dwelling in palaces with columns of -massive gold. The climate of that region being warm throughout the year, -and the morals of the inhabitants not yet perverted by contact with -their would-be civilizers, his majesty’s attire, it was asserted, was in -keeping with the glitter of his dominions; a simple coating of -balsamiferous resins, in which the country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_398" id="page_398"></a>{398}</span> abounds, followed by a -sprinkling of gold-dust through the hollow tube of a bamboo, twice a -day, being sufficient to distinguish him from the rest of his naked -subjects: hence the name. But this sort of drapery being rather -uncomfortable at bed-time, it was removed every night by simply washing -with water—a most delightful luxury in warm countries—and as easily -replaced on the following day. Where such <i>embarras de richesse</i> could -be indulged in by a demi-savage monarch, gold mines must exist in -abundance; the sands of the rivers and lakes must consist of fine gold, -and the pebbles and rocks of the same precious metal. People were not, -however, in perfect accord respecting the precise locality of said -auriferous kingdom; some placing it on the eastern side of Guayana, as -already stated, under the name of <i>El Dorado de la Parime</i>; others, two -hundred and fifty leagues to the westward of this, near the eastern -slope of the Andes of New Granada; while not a few contended that it was -situated in the country of the Omeguas, somewhere near the waters of the -Upper Amazon.</p> - -<p>Such were the vague notions concerning the country of El Dorado, which -the people of former times sought in vain at the cost of many lives and -vast amounts of treasure. Strange blindness! when they had it right -before their eyes! for, as the noble missionary writer often quoted, -Father Gumilla, tells us respecting the wealth of South America: “Let us -ask the Englishman, Keymisco,<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> and other captains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_399" id="page_399"></a>{399}</span> countrymen of -his: Friends, what journeys are these? for what purpose so many -dangerous voyages, so many losses of treasure, ships, and sailors?<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> -Let us ask both Pizarros in Peru and Quito; both Quesadas in Santa Fé de -Bogotá; Orellana, on the Marañon, and Berrio on the Meta, as well as -many other famous chieftains: Gentlemen, what’s your hurry? what the -object of so many armaments, marches, and arduous explorations, -dangerous and painful?—‘We seek,’ they answer ‘the famous and opulent -El Dorado: let no one, therefore, be astonished at our determination and -earnest purpose; for what is worth much, must entail great sacrifices.’ ”</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The Athenians burst into laughter when they met and heard Diogenes -seeking for a man; but they laughed most foolishly, inasmuch as the -philosopher sought a man of truth only! one who should profess it -in earnest; and it should have been a matter of shame, rather than -raillery, with the men of Athens, to learn that so great a -philosopher could not find one among them. But we shall not err if -we laugh at the simplicity of those noble conquerors. Most singular -spectacle! To see so many Spanish chieftains stumbling at each step -over an El Dorado of inexhaustible richness, as is in reality the -entire new kingdom<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_400" id="page_400"></a>{400}</span> of Granada, and Tierra Firme, so abundant in -gold, silver, and emerald mines, such as those already found within -the jurisdictions of Pamplona, Mariquita, Muso, Neiva, Los -Remedios, Antioquia, Anserma, Choco, Barvacoas, and a great many -more which are waiting to be brought to light, as is indicated by -the golden sands carried down by rivers and torrents from the -mountains; thus showing their willingness to be disentombed. -Therefore, if there are so many scores of Dorados, immensely rich -and superabundant, only waiting to be worked; why so much -restlessness, so much expenditure and wandering after a Dorado? -What need had Peru to risk her militia in unknown regions to suffer -and perish in pursuit of a Dorado, while she possesses the -unrivalled golden fields of Caravalla, with many others? And the -inexhaustible silver mountain of Potosi, to say nothing of other -veins of the same metal, almost innumerable, though less prolific? -It was indeed a singular idea to seek abroad, at great cost of life -and treasure, the very thing they possessed at home.”<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a></p></div> - -<p>Nothing in the history of modern adventure can compare in hardihood, -determination, and reckless disregard of life, with those haphazard -undertakings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_401" id="page_401"></a>{401}</span> in the heart of South America which, although proving -invariably most disastrous to their promoters, resulted ultimately in a -real benefit to the colonial possessions of Spain in the New World, by -extending the geographical knowledge of those regions. To fully -comprehend the nature of the task which these adventurers imposed upon -themselves, it will suffice to say, with regard to Venezuela, that few -spots only, and these far apart, were then occupied by Europeans along -its extensive sea-coast. The thirst for gold, which characterized the -spirit of the time, and the reputation the country enjoyed for the -precious metal, as well as for the fine pearls obtained at Margarita and -other places, had attracted thither a crowd of lawless adventurers from -all parts of Europe, but more especially from Germany—the Emperor -Charles the Fifth having, in an evil hour, granted to a company of -Teutonic speculators all the territory comprised between Cabo de la Vela -and Maracapana, with privilege to capture and use as slaves all those of -the native inhabitants who should resist their exactions. The power thus -conferred on those merciless adventurers was freely used by them to -enslave the doomed lords of the land, who were hunted like wild beasts -in all directions, and quickly transported to the mines of Hispaniola, -or Saint Domingo, where they perished by thousands, the native -population of that island having already been exterminated in this -manner. To accomplish their work more effectually, expeditions were -organized and despatched to all parts of the country, some of which -penetrated beyond the llanos<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_402" id="page_402"></a>{402}</span> of Apure, Casanare, and Meta, as far as -the Caqueta and Putumayo, tributary rivers of the Upper Amazon. Others, -still more bold, disregarding the frigid blasts of the Sierra Nevada, -with its dizzy precipices and yawning chasms, sought the “Land of gold” -in a westerly direction, fighting their way not only against a frowning -nature, but also against the hardy mountain tribes, who disputed every -inch of ground to the bearded invaders. It was in this manner that the -rich domain of Cundinamarca, in New Granada, was made known to the -colonists of Venezuela, by Nicholas Federmann, in 1539, although Jimenez -de Quesada had preceded him, and Sebastian de Benalcazar, by the way of -the river Magdalena from the coast of Cartagena.</p> - -<p>“The junction of three bodies of troops on the table-land of New -Granada,” says Humboldt, “spread through all that part of America -occupied by the Spaniards the news of an immensely rich and populous -country, which remained to be conquered. Sebastian de Benalcazar marched -from Quito by way of Popayan (1536) to Bogotá; Nicolas Federmann, coming -from Venezuela, arrived from the east by the plains of Casanare and -Meta. These two captains found, already settled on the table-land of -Cundinamarca, the famous Adelantado Gonzalo Jimenez de Quesada, one of -whose descendants I saw near Zipaquirá, with bare feet, attending -cattle. The fortuitous meeting of the three conquistadores, one of the -most extraordinary and dramatic events of the history of the conquest, -took place in 1536.”</p> - -<p>No better avenger of the wrongs perpetrated on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_403" id="page_403"></a>{403}</span> the unfortunate -aborigines could have been provided against their merciless persecutors, -than this phantom of untold wealth, which, like the fugitive fountain -before Tantalus, haunted them day and night, in the camp of the wearied -soldier, in the alcove of the proud Hidalgo, and even in the quiet -seclusion of the cloister. And yet one cannot but admire the pluck of -those hardy cavaliers of old who, regardless of the almost insuperable -difficulties presented by an unknown and savage country, went boldly in -search of this new Ophir over lofty mountain ranges and desert plains, -which, even at this day, are the terror of the wayfarer. Three centuries -later, when Bolívar, with a well-appointed army and better roads than -Federmann met in his famous expedition, crossed the Cordilleras from the -plains of Venezuela, and undertook the recovery of New Granada from the -Spaniards in 1819, he lost nearly all his baggage-mules, and many -valuable lives besides, amidst the wintry <i>páramos</i> of that tempestuous -ridge.</p> - -<p>Of the earliest expeditions in search of El Dorado, those undertaken by -Jorge de Spira in 1534, and by Felipe de Urre or Utre,<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> in 1541, from -the coast of Coro, Venezuela, rank among the most extraordinary on -record. The former of these worthies had received the title of -<i>adelantado</i>, or governor, to the German colony in Tierra Firme, a -dignity which was associated in those days with the more vainglorious -aspirations<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_404" id="page_404"></a>{404}</span> of the conqueror, or <i>conquistador</i>, and to this end were -directed, more or less, all the efforts of the men appointed to places -of distinction in the New World, without neglecting to provide -themselves with the more substantial perquisites of the fraternity in -the shape of Indian captives, pearls, and gold. Accordingly, the -Adelantado took especial care to bring with him from Spain a force of -about four hundred men, many of whom were persons of distinction, and -landed in Coro in the early part of February of that year.</p> - -<p>Without troubling himself much about the affairs of the colony, the new -Adelantado proceeded immediately to scour the country in search of gold; -but finding none amongst the savage tribes he encountered beyond the -mountains of the coast, boldly plunged into the <i>mare magnum</i> of the -llanos, in spite of the opposition of the natives and the asperity of -the route. The vernal deluge of the low lands, however, put a stop in -due time to further progress, compelling him to seek the protection of -the hilly country to the westward, where years after was founded the -city of Barinas. Here he spent several months waiting for the return of -the dry season, and in vain endeavors to obtain provisions in a country -solely inhabited by savage tribes, that did not disdain to confront the -superior mettle of his men whenever they had a chance. Reduced at last -to the greatest extremity by famine and sickness, the Governor -despatched a portion of his force under one of his most tried captains, -with orders to penetrate into the valleys formed by the lofty range of -mountains further west.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_405" id="page_405"></a>{405}</span></p> - -<p>Goaded by hunger, and with the hope of finding more promising realms -than those they had encountered on the route from Coro, the soldiers of -Spira did not stop until they discovered on a high mountain what seemed -to be the granary of the tribes appertaining to that district, which -they were not slow in transporting to headquarters. Somewhat restored -with this opportune supply of food, and not in the least daunted by the -dangers that threatened him, Spira resolved to proceed on his forlorn -journey, sending back to Coro the sick and wounded under a competent -escort, which was to rejoin him in his camp. This accomplished, the -Adelantado resumed his march across the plains in a southward direction. -Keeping in sight of the western cordillera, and guided by the celestial -constellations at night, Spira and his brave companions presented the -spectacle so well described by Goldsmith in the following lines:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i8">“To distant climes, a dreary scene,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where half the convex world intrudes between,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Through torrid tracks with fainting step they go.”<br /></span> -<span class="i12"><i>The Deserted Village.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>After several months of arduous vicissitudes, when they nearly all -perished for want of provisions, subsisting in the mean time on the -tender shoots of heliconias and the most loathsome reptiles, they -stopped at last on the banks of the river Upia, having crossed many -others of no less consequence, such as the Apure, the Sarare, and the -Casanare, by what means the chronicles of the time do not tell us. -Completely exhausted now, and again threatened by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_406" id="page_406"></a>{406}</span> the approaching rainy -season, the weary caravan prepared to winter there, selecting for the -purpose some high ground near a forest, upon which they built huts and -considered themselves secure against the vernal flood. Vain precautions! -The thundering voice of the tropical tempest made itself heard at -length, and neither human ingenuity, nor high bank, nor tangled forest, -could turn aside the mighty swell which, like a partial deluge, sweeps -over the boundless plain at the vernal equinox. Thus the bold -Castilians, after courageously braving the terrors of a savage country -for nearly two years, found themselves reduced to a small space of dry -land, and in danger of being washed away at any moment. Ignorant of the -ways, and badly provided with the necessary appliances for procuring -game in a country so profusely endowed with this commodity, they were -still compelled to subsist on wild fruits and roots; even these could -not be procured but at the peril of ravenous jaguars, which, like -themselves, had been driven thither by the engulfing inundation. More -skilled in the art of swimming and navigating those waters, the vengeful -Indians watched stealthily every opportunity to pick off stragglers from -the camp; and thus many of those poor wretches were spared the horrors -of a lingering death by starvation, sickness, and despair. Yet, the -unconquerable spirit of their leader, far from yielding to the force of -circumstances, and wholly impressed with visions of a golden paradise, -only seemed to urge him on still farther in the unknown interior; for no -sooner was he released from his long confinement by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_407" id="page_407"></a>{407}</span> the subsidence of -the waters, than Spira crossed over to the south side of the river, and -proceeded on his journey, through innumerable hostile tribes of Indians, -who annoyed him considerably on his march. During his wanderings over -those immeasurable wilds, Spira obtained from an Indian captive some -information respecting more prosperous and populated lands to the -westward, the inhabitants of which were clad in fine cotton fabrics, and -wore ornaments of gold, showing a higher grade of civilization than that -of the savages he had encountered. Although at first he lent a willing -ear to the story, and even sent a strong body of men to reconnoitre the -lofty mountain range beyond, the Adelantado desisted from his projected -conquest in that direction, owing to the rugged nature of the route, as -reported by his men, and the little faith he placed on such statements -from Indian informers. The fact is, the Spaniards had proved such -troublesome guests, that the aborigines, to get rid of them, and -perceiving their eagerness for gold, constantly allured them towards the -wealth of other countries, situated farther off. Had Spira, on this -occasion, followed the advice of his informant, instead of persisting, -as he did, in his southern exploration, he would, in a short time, have -found the promised land of his expectations—the rich and fertile -country of the Muiscas, in one word, for he was then only a few days’ -march from their own capital on the high table-land of Bogotá. His bad -luck led him instead to a region so exactly the reverse of this, that -his companions gave it the name of <i>Mal Pais</i> (bad country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_408" id="page_408"></a>{408}</span>), not only -on account of the roughness of the land, but also of its inhabitants, -with whom they had several desperate engagements, before they were -enabled to proceed.</p> - -<p>Without losing sight of the friendly cordillera which had guided their -steps thus far, the Spaniards arrived at the village of a less -pugnacious tribe of Indians, which they christened with the name of -<i>Nuestra Señora</i>, or Our Lady, in commemoration of the Feast of the -Assumption, which they, in spite of their wretched condition, celebrated -with great pomp and rejoicings, in 1537. It is the same where they -afterwards founded the city of San Juan de los Llanos.<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> Here the -Spaniards heard again of regions abounding in gold and silver, situated -farther on; and although they had become rather incredulous respecting -such reports, they believed, on this occasion, what the Indians told -them, in consequence of finding there some signs of a more advanced -state of civilization, such as a temple, consecrated to the sun, and a -convent of virgins similar to those which were afterwards found among -the Muiscas and Peruvians. Without stopping even to rest his troop, -Spira crossed the Ariari, perhaps higher up than Macatoa, and before its -junction with the Guaviare. He then penetrated, by force of arms, into -the country of the Guayupes and Canicamares, two powerful tribes, and -shortly afterwards he discovered the head waters of the Papamene, where -he stopped some days to rest his men, and to obtain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_409" id="page_409"></a>{409}</span> guides among the -Indians to conduct him to the country of riches. The dwellers of -Papamene received Spira in a friendly manner, and established with his -soldiers a system of exchanges and communication most acceptable on both -sides; the strangers obtaining by these means the provisions they were -in need of, and the Indians those trinkets of foreign manufacture so -highly prized by them. But, tired at last of their troublesome guests, -the aborigines persuaded them that a little further on they would find -the country they were in quest of. To encourage them still more, five of -the natives volunteered to act as guides, pledging themselves to lead -them shortly to the heart of that happy country, from whence they would -return loaded with riches. Instead of this, the wily Indians conducted -them to a dismal labyrinth of swamps and quicksands, the abode of a -ferocious and warlike nation, dexterous in battle and in the management -of formidable lances of palm-wood, tipped with blades of human bone, -very sharp and pointed. When once in the heart of this horrid -wilderness, the guides disappeared one night, and left their friends to -shift for themselves.</p> - -<p>Not in the least disconcerted by the untoward contretemps, the stubborn -leader of the band, instead of retracing his steps, prepared at once to -make a thorough exploration of that region. To this end he detailed his -lieutenant, Esteban Martin—a well tried and competent individual—with -fifty infantry and twenty horsemen, to reconnoitre the position. Martin -soon discovered the difficulties of the undertaking,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_410" id="page_410"></a>{410}</span> and the dangers to -which they all would be exposed if the Governor persisted in his -project. After an ineffectual reconnoisance of five days’ duration, when -men and horses were constantly in danger of being swallowed up by the -treacherous ground, he returned to the camp, and again endeavored to -dissuade the Governor from his foolhardy scheme; but Spira was deaf to -the timely advice of his lieutenant. Ordering him to leave behind the -horses, and to take the fifty men already allotted to the service, he -enjoined Martin to resume the reconnoisance forthwith, by a different -route.</p> - -<p>The result of the foray was just as the lieutenant had foreseen. The -Indians allowed them to penetrate unmolested into the interior of their -stronghold, and then cut them up in detail. Although the Spaniards -fought like lions on this occasion, very few of them were fortunate -enough to reach headquarters, to apprise the stubborn Governor of his -danger. It became now necessary to effect a retreat from that den of -horrors which the Spaniards stigmatized with the appropriate name of -<i>Los Choques</i>—the Onslaughts—in allusion to the repeated attacks which -the enemy made upon them while endeavoring to accomplish their escape. -Unfortunately for the invaders, as they were then very near the line of -the equator, where it rains almost incessantly, they had to contend also -against the inclemency of the weather, which brought on a multitude of -diseases very fatal to men and horses; for they had neither the means -nor the physical strength to counteract them. Thus many of these brave -fellows<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_411" id="page_411"></a>{411}</span> became a prey to the distemper, among them several -distinguished individuals, whose names are given by Oviedo in his -“Historia de la Conquista,” such as Francisco Murcia de Rondon, who had -acted as secretary to King Francis the First of France during his -captivity in Spain.</p> - -<p>The most difficult part of the undertaking remained yet to be -accomplished, namely, that of retracing their steps to the sea-coast -through a flooded and deserted country; for, with the previous -experience of the natives, the villages were abandoned at the approach -of the dreaded foreigners, and stripped of their provisions. So great -was the destitution among the followers of Spira, that, on one occasion, -a party of his men fell in with an infant, left forsaken by its mother -in the hurry of the moment after a surprise; and, without the least -compunction, they devoured it along with some edible roots found in the -hut. When Spira heard of it he would have made an example of the -cannibals on the spot; but considering that he was still in an enemy’s -country, and that he could not very well spare the men—four in -number—he commuted the sentence of death passed upon them to some -other, though quite severe punishment. They all, however, got their -deserts after a while; for, as the historiographer Oviedo tells us, -every one of them died in the most distressing agony—although of -various diseases—at the thought of the horrid crime they had committed.</p> - -<p>A whole year was spent in this disastrous retreat, which, more than any -other feat of arms, proved the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_412" id="page_412"></a>{412}</span> mettle of the bold conquerors. The -remnants of what was a dashing phalanx—ninety men out of the four -hundred that five years before had started in search of wealth and -fame—reached Coro in February of 1539; and these, far from being -discouraged by past misfortunes, only inflamed the ardor of other -incautious adventurers to join them in a renewed search for El Dorado; -for we find Felipe de Urre and Pedro de Limpias, two of Spirals -followers, engaging in a similar expedition soon after the return of -this ill-fated conquistador, who did not long survive the hardships of -that fearful journey, for he died in Coro on the 12th of June, 1540. His -successor, as Governor of the colony, Bishop de las Bastidas, whose -mission as a prelate of the church should have been one of “peace on -earth, and good-will to men,” far from discountenancing these reckless -enterprises, became himself a most ardent votary of the “gilded king,” -to whom he prepared to pay his respects through his lieutenant, the -famous conquistador, Felipe de Urre, like Spira and Federmann, of German -nationality. The exchequer of the colony being rather short of funds at -the time, the Right Reverend sent an expedition under Pedro de Limpias, -to the lake of Maracaibo, for the purpose of obtaining its equivalent in -the shape of Indian captives, a species of merchandise which commanded a -ready sale among the traders on the coast of Tierra Firme. The -speculation succeeded so well that, by the month of June, 1541, the -Commander-in-chief was ready to start at the head of one hundred and -fifty men, well armed and equipped for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_413" id="page_413"></a>{413}</span> a protracted campaign. Urre -appointed as his chief of staff the ubiquitous Pedro de Limpias, a brave -and crafty adventurer, long experienced in Indian forays, especially -that of the unfortunate Jorge de Spira, and afterwards under Federmann, -during his perilous journey over the icy Sierras of Cundinamarca.</p> - -<p>The only pass through the northern cordillera then known to the -colonists was that of Agua-Caliente, a little to the south of the -present site of Puerto Cabello, and the same that Spira and Federmann -sought some years before in their march through to the Llanos. This pass -being situated some fifty leagues east of Coro, and no roads existing at -that time, the little band of Felipe de Urre had to follow the -coast-line intervening between both places, with no small inconvenience -to men and beasts, from the burning sands and the quagmires they must -have encountered.</p> - -<p>The route being pretty well known already, Urre had no difficulty in -finding the pass; and then following the line of march of his -predecessors in their famous perambulations through the Llanos, he -reached La Fragua, or Nuestra Señora, in safety, stopping there for a -while until the return of the dry season, and to obtain further -information respecting the mysterious land he was in quest of. His -astonishment was great, however, when he heard that, a few days before, -Hernan Perez de Quesada, with a large force from Cundinamarca, had -passed through that place in quest of El Dorado. Fearing that the -Spaniard might get ahead of him in this coveted conquest, Urre left his -winter quarters sooner than he had calculated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_414" id="page_414"></a>{414}</span> and reached the country -of Papamene. From thence he might have gained easy access to the -populous and well-stocked country of the Guayupes, but for his obstinacy -in keeping the track of Quesada in his march southward. Although warned -in time of the dangers of this route by a friendly Indian, who offered -to conduct him instead to the rich domain of Macatoa in a south-easterly -direction, the stubborn German still persisted in his purpose, with no -better luck than his rival; who barely escaped with his life, and the -loss of the greater portion of his followers, to the high table-land of -Papayan, after two years of wanderings and vicissitudes through the most -dismal solitudes and tangled forests.</p> - -<p>Compelled by the approaching rainy season to seek also the proximity of -the mountains, and with most of his force in a deplorable condition, -Urre hastened to establish his winter quarters on a spur of the Andes, -which stretches far into the low lands, and was named by them the Punta, -or Cape of Los Pardaos. But here an unexpected misfortune awaited them; -for the district being scarcely inhabited, they could find no provisions -during their long wintry captivity; subsisting, like Spira and his men, -on reptiles and the like. The greatest luxury they enjoyed at times was -a ball of corn-meal, well seasoned with a species of red-ants, and -roasted on the embers. The game was easily secured by placing the moist -paste near the mouth of the ant-nest, which soon attracted the insects, -and when well covered with them, they were kneaded together, the same -operation being repeated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_415" id="page_415"></a>{415}</span> several times, until the roll contained more -insects than paste. Reduced, in consequence, to the condition of walking -skeletons, and most of them covered with the most loathsome tumors and -ulcers, the forlorn wanderers could hardly extricate themselves from -that theatre of their misfortunes, when the subsidence of the waters -allowed them to seek their old quarters at La Fragua, to recruit before -engaging in new adventures.</p> - -<p>Although the force had dwindled down to less than half the number of -those originally brought from Coro, Felipe de Urre determined to resume -his explorations with only forty men, which was all that could be got -together, after leaving a sufficient number at La Fragua for the -protection of the sick. Remembering the advice given him by the Indian -guide of Papamene to look for the country of the Omeguas in a different -direction from that taken by Quesada in his perilous pilgrimage, Urre -set out in quest of Macatoa—situated on the right bank of the great -river Guaviare—as the most convenient centre for future operations -against the warlike Omeguas.</p> - -<p>Whether it was indifference on the part of the Indians, or a -preconcerted plan to bring their common enemy to speedy destruction at -the hands of the Omeguas, the most powerful nation among them, the fact -is, that the invaders found no difficulty in penetrating as far as -Macatoa by the help of Indian guides and assistance. In like manner the -lord of Macatoa, on being informed of the purpose which had brought the -strangers thus far, received them with every<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_416" id="page_416"></a>{416}</span> demonstration of -friendship, giving up to them the most commodious residences in the -town, and assisting them with provisions and attendants in abundance. -The same courtesies were extended to them at their departure, although -the Cacique warned his guests of the perils they would encounter if they -persisted in attacking the Omeguas with so small a force. In order to -expedite their march, the Cacique sent messengers ahead to apprise the -lord of the next tribe, his ally—situated some nine days’ journey from -Macatoa—of their coming, and recommending them strongly to his care and -attention. On arriving there, so captivated were the inhabitants with -the novelty of the strangers and their attire, especially with the -horses, that they became even more obsequious than the people of -Macatoa, and, like these, warned the leader of that squad of adventurers -not to engage in so desperate a combat with the Omeguas, representing -likewise to Felipe de Urre that these people possessed also domestic -quadrupeds of large size—probably llamas—which they could use like -horses if they chose. In addition to these facts the Spaniards were -reassured of the immense wealth in gold and silver everywhere to be -found among that populous nation, which news so excited their avarice -that, disregarding all the chances against the success of their -enterprise, they hastened towards the goal of their expectations.</p> - -<p>Perceiving that his arguments were of no avail with the Castilians, to -deter them from their rash undertaking, the friendly Cacique offered to -escort them with a few of his subjects, on the road to the nation<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_417" id="page_417"></a>{417}</span> of -the Omeguas, reaching the first of their outposts in five days. It is -related by the chronicles that, having ascended some high ground near -by, the Spaniards descried a city of such extraordinary extent and -magnificence, that, although not very far off, they could not see the -end of it. The streets were straight, and the buildings quite near each -other; among the latter was to be seen a superb edifice of vast -proportions, which the friendly Cacique told them was the palace of the -lord of that city, whose name was Cuarica; and that it served the double -function of habitation to his lordship, and temple to many gods, or -idols, of solid gold.</p> - -<p>Here the Cacique, having accomplished his errand, proposed to return to -his own dominions; but before taking leave of his <i>protegés</i>, he advised -Urre, as a last token of his regard, to capture, at all hazards, the men -stationed at the post, before they should carry the alarm into the city. -The suggestion was fully appreciated by the Commander and some officers -near him, all of whom being on horseback at that moment, immediately -gave chase to the fugitive Omeguas. One of these, finding himself hard -pressed by Urre, who rode ahead of his companions, turned round -suddenly, and struck the Commander so powerful a blow with his lance, -that it pierced right through his cuirass, penetrating deeply into the -ribs of the right side. Disconcerted with the blow, and the pain -inflicted by the wound, Urre abandoned the pursuit, and turned back to -rejoin his companions, while the fugitives made their escape into the -city.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_418" id="page_418"></a>{418}</span></p> - -<p>Greatly perplexed with this unexpected mishap to their Commander, and -fearing that, alarmed with the report carried by the advanced guard into -the city, the Omeguas would immediately sally forth to encounter them in -great numbers, the Spaniards, by the advice of their friendly Indian -guide, who still remained by them, placing their wounded leader in a -hammock, resolved to retire at once from the neighborhood. Their -apprehensions were soon realized; for, in a little while, they heard the -confused yells of the multitude, amidst the ominous booming of big drums -and other war instruments, preparing for the attack. Happily for the -retreating Spaniards, night came on soon after, which enabled them to -place a good distance between themselves and the advancing columns of -the enemy.</p> - -<p>On arriving at the village of their good friend the Cacique, the first -care was to attend to the chieftain’s wound, as well as circumstances -would permit; but hardly were they established here, when the Cacique, -apprised by some of his people who were working on their fields, -informed Urre of the approach of the Omeguas. Unable to place himself at -the head of his soldiers, the Commander ordered his lieutenant, Pedro de -Limpias, to give them battle at once, regardless of their numbers, -which, according to Oviedo, amounted to not less than fifteen thousand. -The ground being favorable for the use of cavalry, Limpias headed the -charge with the few horses he had at his command; and although the -Omeguas resisted for some time the onset of those animals,—seen by them -for the first time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_419" id="page_419"></a>{419}</span>—they at last commenced to give way; and the -infantry soldiers coming up at this moment under the orders of another -brave captain, one Bartolomé Belzar, completed the rout of the clamorous -hosts of Omeguas, who have never since, to this day, been heard of; for -Urre lost his life afterwards at the hands of a tyrant who ruled the -colony in his absence, as we shall see presently; and the country -remains still a perfect <i>terra incognita</i>, although several attempts -were made subsequently from Perú and Quito to find that mysterious land.</p> - -<p>Convinced that, with the small force at his disposal, it would have been -more than rashness to undertake the conquest of a city which, on so -short a notice, could raise fifteen thousand warriors, Urre -determined—so soon as his wound permitted him to mount his horse—to -return to Macatoa, and hence to La Fragua, which he reached after an -absence of three months. Great was the joy in the invalid camp of the -Spaniards, on the return of their friends; but greater still, at the -good tidings they brought of having found the long-sought-for realms of -El Dorado; for they had not the least doubt in their minds that such was -the country of the powerful nation whose great city they had looked on -with anxious eyes, but dared not enter.</p> - -<p>It is a singular coincidence that, while Gonzalo Pizarro was engaged -about this time in his ill-fated exploration of the country of Canelos, -the land of cinnamon-trees, he heard from the Indians of Muchifaro, that -not far from there—somewhat in the direction<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_420" id="page_420"></a>{420}</span> of Félipe de Urre’s -discoveries—a great Sire, most opulent in subjects and riches, and -whose name was Omeguas, or Omaguas, had his realms; Pizarro sent in -consequence his kinsman and confidential friend, Francisco Orellana, to -explore that region, with fifty men, who were launched upon the swift -current of the river Napo in a frail barge, constructed in the -wilderness, of very rude materials. But Orellana, probably disgusted by -this time with the sufferings already endured, instead of searching for -the “rich and fruitful land abounding with gold,” abandoned himself and -his companions to the current of the stream—one of the greatest -tributaries of the mighty Amazon—and once on the bosom of the Father of -Waters, sought the broad Atlantic, which he reached in safety after a -run of two thousand miles. “But it is marvellous,” Prescott says, “that -he should escape shipwreck in the perilous and unknown navigation of -that river. Many times his vessel was nearly dashed to pieces, on its -rocks and in its furious rapids; and he was in still greater peril from -the warlike tribes on its borders, who fell on his little troop whenever -he attempted to land, and followed in his wake for miles in their -canoes.”<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a></p> - -<p>The sufferings endured by Pizarro and his men on this occasion, remind -us of the miserable condition of Jorge de Spira and Felipe de Urre on -their retrograde march to Coro. “Every scrap of provisions had been long -since consumed. The last of their horses had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_421" id="page_421"></a>{421}</span> been devoured. To appease -the gnawings of hunger, they were fain to eat the leather of their -saddles and belts. The woods supplied them with scanty sustenance, and -they greedily fed upon toads, serpents, and such other reptiles as they -occasionally found.”</p> - -<p>But to return to the way-worn company under the German leader, Urre, -whom we left in rather a bad plight at their haven of La Fragua. After a -deliberate consultation among the principal captains of the band, it was -unanimously resolved to send to Coro for reinforcements, and Pedro de -Limpias having offered his services to that effect, he was despatched -forthwith by Felipe de Urre with a good portion of his force as an -escort; but suspecting, soon after, some evil intentions on the part of -his lieutenant, who was always at loggerheads with the German element of -the troop, the Commander followed him soon after, with the rest of the -men.</p> - -<p>Subsequent events proved that the apprehensions of the gallant German -were not unfounded; for on his approach to the settlements of the -colony, he learned that the government thereof had passed into the hands -of an usurper, a crafty lawyer, named Carvajal, Relator or Recorder of -the Audiencia of San Domingo, who, by forgery of despatches from that -body, had managed to appoint himself Governor, in the absence of the -lawful incumbent of the post. Felipe de Urre was, moreover, warned by -his friends of the machinations of his lieutenant, who, instead of -demanding the requisite contingent of men and horses to prosecute his -conquests, was plotting his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_422" id="page_422"></a>{422}</span> destruction, and that of his countrymen, -with the wily Carvajal. This individual, whom all accounts represent as -an unscrupulous tyrant and most accomplished hypocrite, succeeded, -nevertheless, in disarming Urre and his adherents, all of whom he had -the effrontery to put to death, on some specious pretext concocted -between himself and the spiteful Pedro de Limpias.</p> - -<p>Thus fell one of the bravest pioneers of South America, and a most -disinterested champion of its early colonization. “None of the -chieftains,” says Oviedo, “of the many that warred in the Indies, -stained his sword with blood less than he; for, having overrun more -provinces than any one else in his protracted journey of four years’ -duration, his moderation was impelled to war only when he found no other -means to obtain peace.”</p> - -<p>But the tyrannical rule of his murderer, Carvajal, was only of short -duration; for about this time the Emperor Charles the Fifth, cognizant -of the excesses practised against the unhappy aborigines—through the -representations of their zealous defender, the celebrated Father Las -Casas—and the deplorable state into which the country had fallen under -the bad management of the German company, annulled the charter granted -to the latter, and sent an eminent jurist, the Licentiate de Tolosa, -with full powers to regulate the affairs of the colony as Governor and -Captain-General thereof. On his arrival at Coro, Tolosa was soon posted -in regard to the conduct of the usurper Carvajal, who, for greater -security, kept himself at a distance from the sea-coast, in the new -settlement of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_423" id="page_423"></a>{423}</span> Tocuyo, far away in the interior. The Captain-General -managed things so well, however, that he contrived to pounce upon the -wretch, one night, when least expected; and having tried, and found him -guilty of the crimes imputed to him, he sentenced him to be -hanged—after being dragged on a hide through the streets of the -town—from the same tree, a splendid Ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, in the -centre of the plaza, which the tyrant had polluted with his numberless -atrocities, making use of it as a gibbet during his executions.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>We shall not follow the other conquerors in their restless search for El -Dorado, now in one direction, now in an opposite quarter, until it was -brought within the embrace of the mighty Orinoco, where Raleigh’s last -adventure was terminated by his unsuccessful attack upon Santo Tomé de -la Angostura, the present Ciudad Bolívar, where we must resume our -journey.</p> - -<p>Although the river has been well known for the last three hundred years, -the country within its boundaries, properly called Guayana, has remained -comparatively ignored by the outside world until these latter years. A -few settlements along its southern shore, and these principally -controlled by priestly exclusiveness, was all the advancement that had -been made there up to the destruction of the missions by the war of -independence. Since then the country had nearly returned to its primeval -state of savageness, when the “gold fever,” that most potent excitant<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_424" id="page_424"></a>{424}</span> -of all distempers, aroused the lethargic apathy of the inhabitants, and -now bids fair to communicate itself to people of keener sensibilities.</p> - -<p>It is possible that the missionary fathers, who had for a long time -entire control of the scattered villages south of the Orinoco, were well -informed respecting the existence of the gold fields which are being -brought to light just now; but the <i>frailes</i>—all of them European -Spaniards, and consequently strong supporters of their cause—were -wantonly massacred by some staff officers of General Bolívar, and not -one of them left to reveal the source of their reputed wealth. And, what -is most singular, the learned Humboldt, who explored the Orinoco in -nearly its whole course, devotes an entire chapter to prove the -non-existence of gold in Guayana, especially on the spot where it has -been found in the greatest abundance; although, with his characteristic -reserve and far-seeing perspicuity, he concludes with these words:</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>“Though the celebrity of the riches of Spanish Guiana is chiefly -assignable to the geographical situation of the country and the errors -of the old maps, we are not justified in denying the existence of any -auriferous land in the tract of country of 82,000 square leagues -(250,000 square miles), which stretches between the Orinoco and the -Amazon, on the east of the Andes of Quito and New Granada. What I saw of -this country between the second and eighth degrees of longitude, is -entirely composed of granite, and of a gneiss passing into micaceous and -talcous slate. These<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_425" id="page_425"></a>{425}</span> rocks appear naked in the lofty mountains of -Parima, as well as in the plains of the Atabapo and the Casiquiare. -Granite predominates there over the other rocks: and though in both -continents, the <i>granite of ancient formation</i> is pretty generally -destitute of gold ore, we cannot hence conclude that the granite of -Parima contains no vein, no stratum of auriferous quartz.”</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The error of the great traveller in this respect is assignable to the -fact that he never left the bed of the Orinoco, which is bordered, as he -states, by ledges of primitive formation. The auriferous deposits of the -State of Guayana are found in a range of mountains, having a general -course north-east and south-west, about a hundred miles south of the -Orinoco river, precisely where Sir Walter Raleigh placed his <i>El Dorado -de la Parime</i>.<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a></p> - -<p>Through the courtesy of J. B. Austin, Esq., of Philadelphia—a gentleman -of refined cultivation and thorough American energy, who has lately -returned from that region—I am enabled to place before my readers the -subjoined letter, containing an accurate statement concerning the -so-called “fabulous” realms of El Dorado,[A] as they now are:</p> - -<p>“The streams having their sources in these mountains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_426" id="page_426"></a>{426}</span> generally flow -into the Cuyuni and Masaruny rivers, tributaries of the Esequibo, though -some run into the Caroni, one of the great tributaries of the Orinoco. -As these gold deposits are approached, the geological features of the -country undergo an important change. Quartz appears in immense -quantities, running in broad veins through the savannas, or thickly -distributed over great extents. This is often auriferous to a slight -degree. South of the Yuruary river the system of plains is left behind, -and here are ranges of hills and mountains covered with dense, gloomy, -tropical forests, and intersected with numerous streams and rivers. The -principal formation, or ‘country rock,’ is highly metamorphosed talcose -and chloritic slates, broken often by upheavals of granite, and -traversed by veins and ledges of quartz, from thirty inches to ninety -feet wide. All this is auriferous, free gold in quartz, and of a -richness incredible, until seen and explored. The earth, rocks, and beds -of streams all yield gold in the greatest profusion, and over ten -thousand men are now at work there without any scientific direction, and -with the poorest appliances for labor, but all doing well, many -accumulating large sums of money. Every part of their labor is by hand, -and their tools and implements of the most ordinary character.</p> - -<p>“Here is timber sufficient for ages of consumption; abundant supplies of -water; a quiet, orderly people; good government, and deposits of gold -apparently inexhaustible. It seems strange that such a country has -remained so far hidden for such a length of time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_427" id="page_427"></a>{427}</span> It was known to the -aborigines, for we find their old pits, implements and pottery. Even as -late as the time of Sir Walter Raleigh it was known to the Indians, and -that gallant leader made four attempts to penetrate its fastnesses, but -each time was driven back by the Spaniards. Evidently it was known to -the Capuchin fathers, who colonized and christianized that section of -South America; but by them it was held as a great secret, and upon their -overthrow and massacre, in 1815, the trace was lost, until accidentally -discovered again a few years since.</p> - -<p>“It is a remarkable fact also, that the State of Guayana, since the date -of its independence from Spain in 1812, has remained free from those -internal dissensions and strifes so common in South American states. Its -inhabitants are orderly, honest, and industrious; their pursuits -pastoral and agricultural, and its rulers men of great political ability -and enlarged liberal views.</p> - -<p>“The climate of the State is salubrious, and the communications with the -mines good; wagons can pass from the river to them in five days, and -steamers run every fortnight from the river to England and France in -eighteen days, and monthly to New York in twelve days.</p> - -<p>“In a scientific point of view the country is most interesting. It is -emphatically an unexplored field; its geology, natural history, and -botany, almost unknown; pictorially it is very beautiful; protection to -life and property absolutely safe; and though somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_428" id="page_428"></a>{428}</span> rough in its -accommodations, still most interesting to the traveller.</p> - -<p>“With such unbounded sources of wealth within its borders, so accessible -to the great centres of commerce, and under such an enlightened -administration of public affairs, it requires no gift of prophecy to -foresee the rapidity of development now opening for the great and -prosperous State of Guayana.</p> - -<p>“The scenery throughout the canton of Upata partakes more of the -pastoral character, its most marked feature being quiet beauty. There -are places, such as the site of the mission of Santa Maria, the approach -to the Yuruary from Guacipati, the great palm forests near Palmar, and -the mountain range of Nuri, which are grand, even sublime; but generally -the scene is more park-like, the mountain forms quiet, the savannas -sweeping off in long swells, with trees scattered over them singly, in -groups, or groves, seemingly as if planted by man for pictorial effect. -The valleys are fertile and luxuriant—all the productions of the -tropical zone maturing almost without labor; the savannas furnish rich -pasturage for tens of thousands of cattle—the forests are prolific in -woods of the greatest value—the streams rapid, and their water good.</p> - -<p>“The auriferous deposits beyond the Yuruary have been traced from that -river through to the Ventuari, about four hundred miles; not, for all -this distance, by continuous exploration, but in detached efforts, -penetrating from the Orinoco at various points, and always striking the -same general system of veins.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_429" id="page_429"></a>{429}</span></p> - -<p>As I understand that Mr. Austin is engaged in writing a book on this -important subject, I abstain from further comments in the matter, -convinced as I am, that no one is better calculated than himself to -enlighten his countrymen respecting a region eminently adapted to the -enterprising energy of the Anglo-Saxon race.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Son árboles y piedras un tesoro,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Los montes plata y las arenas oro.”<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i12"><span class="smcap">Baralt</span>, <i>Oda á Colon</i>.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">In its trees and its stones are treasures untold,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Its mountains are silver, its sands are of gold.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="blk"><p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—According to the official returns of the State of Guayana -which I have before me, the exports of gold through the -Custom-house of Ciudad Bolívar for the months of April and May, -1867, amounted to $158,815.00.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td>By Steamer Pioneer,</td><td class="rt">1194</td><td align="left">ounces,</td><td class="c">or</td><td class="rt"> $28.568.00</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="ditto">“</span><span class="ditto">“</span><span class="ditto">“</span></td><td class="rt">1800</td><td align="left"><span class="ditto">“</span></td><td align="left"><span class="ditto">“</span></td><td class="rt">43.200.00</td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="ditto">“</span> Bark Rosedale</td><td class="rt">3627</td><td align="left"><span class="ditto">“</span></td><td align="left"><span class="ditto">“</span></td><td class="rt">87.032.00</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="left" class="bt">6620</td><td align="left"> </td><td class="bt" colspan="2">$158.800.00</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>This much without taking into consideration the vast amounts which -are carried away by private individuals, without passing through -the Custom-house to avoid the export duty levied on gold by the -Venezuelian government.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_430" id="page_430"></a>{430}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">I fear</span> that the description of the land of El Dorado has already been -extended beyond the limits assigned to that chapter; otherwise we might -continue our voyage down the noble river, and visit other points of -attraction along its course; such as the falls of the Caroni, three -miles above its confluence with the Orinoco. On its margins grows the -beautiful <i>Bomplandia trifoliata</i>, which yields the Angostura-bark of -the pharmacopœa—next to quinine, the most efficacious antidote -against the miasmas of these regions. It also furnishes the principal -ingredient in the composition of the fine bitters manufactured there -under that name. By descending the river still farther, we might enter -any of the thousand channels into which the Orinoco divides itself -before it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, and there take a look at the -curious race of men—the Waraun Indians—living on trees like apes, for -want of dry land upon which to stretch their limbs; or in rude huts -built on piles driven in the soft mud of the Great Delta. But as the -time draws near<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_431" id="page_431"></a>{431}</span> for our departure from the Llanos, and the rivers -commence to overflow the plains, we will reascend the Orinoco and rejoin -our friends, who await us impatiently on the banks of the Apure; or else -we might find ourselves, like Spira and his companions, cut off from the -rest of civilization. We shall also miss the curious -harvest—<i>cosecha</i>—of turtles’ eggs, which is gathered about this time -upon the sand-islands of the Orinoco, just above the mouth of the Apure. -Here the great turtles called <i>arraus</i> by the Indians, and <i>tortugas</i> by -the whites, assemble in vast multitudes during the dry season to perfect -the incubation of their eggs. This they accomplish by digging pits in -the sand with their hind feet, in which they deposit the eggs, covering -them afterwards very carefully, and entrusting the rest of the operation -to the heat of the sun. The people from far and near this <i>el dorado</i> of -eggs and turtles, then hasten to these sand-banks, and provision -themselves for “a rainy day” at the expense of the lawful tenants of -those islands.</p> - -<p>Other travellers having already studied the habits of these amphibia in -their native habitat, we may avail ourselves of their experience in -forming some idea of their prodigious increase, in spite of their -sluggish habits. I may mention, among others, Humboldt and Bates, who -have given to the world very graphic accounts of this singular -“harvest,” the former on the Orinoco,<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> and the latter on the Amazon -river.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> But<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_432" id="page_432"></a>{432}</span> the most interesting account within my knowledge is that -of Father Gumilla, who, having spent many years among these wilds, is -entitled to special attention on the part of the lovers of nature. As -his book is very rare and curious nowadays, I will, for the benefit of -my readers, give here a translation of the chapter devoted to the -subject:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">“<span class="smcap">Of the extraordinary harvest</span> (<i>Cosecha</i>) <span class="smcap">of turtles gathered by -the Indians of the Orinoco; their eggs, and of the peculiar oil -obtained from them.”</span></p></div> - -<p>“So great is the number of turtles in the Orinoco river, that whatever I -may say on this subject will fall far short of the actual truth; and I -even fear that many, in reading my authentic account of what I myself -have repeatedly seen, experienced, and touched with my own hands, will -accuse me of exaggeration; but it is a fact that it would be as -difficult to count the sands of the extensive banks of the Orinoco, as -to compute the immense number of turtles which it harbors on its borders -and in the depths of its currents.</p> - -<p>“Some idea may be formed of the enormous consumption of these creatures, -when we say that all the tribes and people of adjacent countries, and -even from those farther off, frequent the Orinoco with their families to -secure what I termed the harvest of turtles; for they not only maintain -themselves therewith during the months that it lasts, but also carry -away a large supply of turtle-meat, dried by fire, and a still greater<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_433" id="page_433"></a>{433}</span> -number of baskets of eggs, dried also by the same means. But what -principally attracts the people of these tribes is the oil which they -gather from the eggs of said turtles, in large quantities, to anoint -themselves throughout the year twice every day, and to sell to the more -remote tribes who cannot, or through fear dare not, go down the river -Orinoco.</p> - -<p>“As soon as the river begins to fall and to display its first sandbanks -in the month of February, the turtles commence to show themselves, in -order to deposit their eggs in the sand; those which appear first are -the small turtles called <i>terecayas</i>, weighing scarce an <i>arroba</i> of -twenty-five pounds; these lay twenty-two and sometimes twenty-four eggs, -like hen’s eggs, but without the shell, instead of which they are -covered by two membranes, one soft and the other thicker. With these -<i>terecayas</i> other turtle also appear, who, in the previous year, found -no sand in which to deposit their eggs, or were prevented from so doing -by the great number assembled there. These large turtles, which, when -three years old, weigh two <i>arrobas</i>—as I have proved by the -scales—deposit sixty-two, and ordinarily, sixty-four round eggs each, -larger than those of the <i>terecayas</i>, with stronger membrane, and with -which the Indians play ball on shore, or egg each other in sport. In -each nest of eggs there is one larger than the rest, from which the male -is hatched; all the others are females. About this time the Indians, of -various tribes, commence to arrive from all points of the adjacent -countries: some of them build their straw huts; others content -themselves by driving poles<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_434" id="page_434"></a>{434}</span> in the sand, from which to swing their -hammocks. A multitude of tigers also appear to turn up the turtles, -which they devour in spite of their strong cuirass; a circumstance which -by no means adds to the pleasure and satisfaction that the Indians -derive from their excursion to the Orinoco, since, in spite of all their -care, scarcely a year passes in which the tigers do not devour some of -the poor Indians, who have no other mode of keeping them off at night -than by fires, which, so long as they burn, keep the beasts at a -distance.</p> - -<p>“Fearing the heat of the sun—which often kills them on the -sand-banks—the turtles at first come out only at nightfall to lay their -eggs; but, as the season advances, the gathering is so great, that the -multitudes already out prevent the passage of still greater numbers, -which, with heads above water, are waiting a chance to pass on; and so -soon as an opportunity presents itself, they hasten to lay all their -eggs at once—the burthen of which they cannot support without great -inconvenience,—regardless of the sun and heat, which often costs many -of them their lives.</p> - -<p>“I have noticed three curious facts with reference to these -turtle-nests: the first is, that after opening with the utmost care the -holes in which these animals deposit their eggs, they take particular -pains to close them again, so as not to leave a trace by which the nest -may be found. For this purpose they leave the ground perfectly even with -the rest of the sand-bank; and in order that the marks of their feet may -not lead to their discovery, they pass over and around the nest several -times in succession before they quit the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_435" id="page_435"></a>{435}</span> ground. All their precautions -are in vain, however, for wherever there are eggs, the sand remains -quite loose, and gives way under foot; and by these means the eggs are -found in the early part of the season; but later, in the height of the -harvest, there is no need of looking for these signs; for, in the same -sands in which the first turtles laid, the second, third, and scores of -others also lay their eggs in such prodigious quantities, that wherever -the Indians may dig, they find them in heaps, the animals themselves -scattering them all over the ground while excavating their own nests.</p> - -<p>“The second curious fact that I have observed, by driving a pole near to -a newly-laid nest, is, that in three days’ time, the incubation of the -eggs is not only perfected, but the young turtles have broken through -the shell; so great is the power of the sun and the intensity of the -heat absorbed by the sand.</p> - -<p>“The third point noted by me is, that the young turtles, on coming out -of the shell—at which time they are about the size of a half -dollar,—do not leave the nest by daylight, nature having taught them -that the heat of the sun will kill them, and the birds of prey will -devour them. They come forth, therefore, in the silence and cool of the -night; and what has most excited my admiration is, that although the -hole from which they emerge may be half a mile or more from the river, -they never mistake the road, but go in a direct line to the water. This -pleased me so much, that I have repeatedly taken the turtles a great -distance from the river, carrying them covered, and turning them around -over and over again on the ground, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_436" id="page_436"></a>{436}</span> order to make them lose their -course; but whenever they found themselves free, they made straight for -the water, and I following them, admiring the wonderful goodness of the -Creator, who thus endows each of his creatures with powers to find its -natural element. What a lesson to us, who, in spite of the hope of -eternal reward and the danger of everlasting punishment, scarce succeed -in taking the right path for that ultimate goal for which the goodness -and mercy of God created us!</p> - -<p>“About this time the Indians, both men and women, rise very early, and -the former turn over as many turtles as they please, leaving them on -their backs in such a way as to render them incapable of resuming their -natural position; for although they strive with their paddles to right -themselves, their back is so high that they cannot touch the ground in -order to obtain a foothold. They are then carried by their captors to -the ranches, where they are made fast by leaving them on their backs, as -aforesaid. Meanwhile the women and children occupy themselves in filling -and carrying baskets of eggs and little turtles to the ranches, making -large heaps of the former, and keeping the latter in the baskets to -prevent their escape into the river, which they always do whenever they -can. The men also dig holes in the sand down to the level of the river, -which are quickly filled by the infiltration of the water, and place -therein large numbers of baby-turtles, to be eaten as wanted; each of -which makes a delicious mouthful, free from bones, the very shells being -soft and tasty. The number of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_437" id="page_437"></a>{437}</span> delicate young turtles eaten daily by the -innumerable families congregated there is incalculable. But the quantity -of eggs consumed is even greater, both as food and for the extraction of -oil; so great, indeed, that notwithstanding the size of the Orinoco -river, it is the opinion of the experts of that country that, were it -not for this extraordinary consumption of turtles and their eggs, the -increase of these animals in the river would be such as to render it -unnavigable; for boats would find it impossible to make way through the -immense number of turtles which would appear were all these eggs to be -hatched; in which opinion I participate also. In the same way, it is -said that on the fishing-banks of Newfoundland, frequented by so many -vessels, the shoals of codfish are so immense that the passage of -vessels is seriously embarrassed and delayed. It is also asserted that -each fisherman can catch as many as four hundred codfish per day.</p> - -<p>“Let us now see how the oil is extracted, which, as I have already said, -is the chief attraction which brings so many people to the Orinoco. -After washing the canoes which have brought them there, they draw them -on the beach, and pour several pailsfull of water into them: they then -wash the eggs in baskets, until not a grain of sand remains adhering to -them, and when perfectly clean, they are emptied into the canoes and -trod upon by children in the same way as grapes are mashed in -wine-making. Once full, the canoes are left exposed to the sun’s rays, -and in due time a fine and limpid liquid rises to the surface, which is -the oleaginous portion of the eggs; so abundant is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_438" id="page_438"></a>{438}</span> this, that I have -been surprised to see a frying-pan placed dry on the fire, and after -being heated, well beaten eggs poured therein, which, on touching the -hot pan, gave forth sufficient oil to fry the omelet, with a certainty -that it never sticks to the pan.</p> - -<p>“Whilst the heat of the sun is extracting this fine oil, the Indian -women place large pots over the fire, and the men with fine shells, very -suitable for the purpose, remove the oil from the surface of the mixture -in the canoes, and carry it to the pots, where the heat of the fire -boils and purifies it. If, during the operation of transferring the oil -any of the beaten eggs are taken along, they remain fixed in the bottom -of the pots. The oil, when purified, is put in suitable jars, and is -much finer and clearer than that of olives, as I have proven to many -Europeans, who could hardly believe it, in the following manner. I -filled half a glass with olive-oil; I then poured in a like quantity of -oil from the eggs of turtles; when, lo! they commenced to change -positions from top to bottom, first one and then the other, gradually -mixing together in the middle until they finally commingled, losing -their natural color and assuming an albuginous appearance like watered -milk; the mixture being left quiet for half an hour or more, the egg-oil -commenced to rise to the surface, and in a short time remained on top of -the olive-oil, just as the latter floats on the surface of water, both -resuming their natural color. But to return to our narrative.</p> - -<p>“At the dinner hour—although they are all the while eating eggs and -young turtles, just for the fun<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_439" id="page_439"></a>{439}</span> of it—a single animal will provide -three large and distinct dishes, ample for the largest family; a turtle, -split on both sides, furnishing the following portions, viz.: head and -neck, the two hind legs, and the pectoral paddles, which require a -good-sized pot to hold them. Before placing them in it, some large lumps -of fat are removed, yellow as the yolk of an egg; and this is another -source of gain, which the Indians take home; and as the turtle which -gives the least, yields two pounds of this fat, the profit is -considerable. The pot being placed on the fire, the husband takes the -shell which forms the turtle’s back, and the wife the breast-plate; and -after carefully chopping together the meat, fat, and great quantity of -eggs which still adhere to the shell, the latter serve them as pots -also, without the slightest danger of burning. Before the mess is quite -cooked, they put the shells on the fireplaces, and make their first -dish, the <i>gigote</i>, on the breast-plate, which is very delicious and -tender; and even the breast-plate itself is sometimes eaten, as it -becomes impregnated with the fat, and is quite palatable. The second -dish is made from the hash prepared on the shell taken from the turtle’s -back. This is quite a treat, and is called <i>garapacho</i>, I do not know -why. Finally, the third dish is the <i>olla</i>, or bouilli, which ends the -meal, and is washed down with plenty of <i>chicha</i>,<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> which they take -good care to provide themselves with in sufficient quantity for the -whole season.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_440" id="page_440"></a>{440}</span></p> - -<p>“One would scarcely believe how fat the children, and in fact the whole -pack of them, grow during the season; but no wonder, for as the good -Father Manuel Roman, the Superior of our Orinoco missions, has often -assured me, although born in Olmedo, and grown in Valladolid and -Salamanca, he did not miss the fine mutton of those places so long as he -could depend upon the turtles of the Orinoco. Other Spanish priests of -the same missions expressed themselves in like terms.</p> - -<p>“The gain and benefit derived from these turtles by the Indians does not -stop here; for, besides the immense number of eggs which they consume, -both as food and in the preparation of the oil, they also carry away -great quantities of them, dried like figs in the sun; or by the heat of -slumbering fires made underneath horizontal trellises raised for the -purpose. The amount of eggs thus purloined can easily be imagined from -the fact, that these people will readily give in exchange for a knife -four basketfuls of them, each of which contains at least one thousand -eggs. They also carry away as many turtles as they can conveniently stow -in the canoes, without danger of sinking, tying them securely therein to -prevent their escape.</p> - -<p>“Of this species of turtle, what most excited my surprise was the -immense number of eggs which each of them has within itself; for, -besides the roe ready to be laid this year, farther in they have the one -for the next season, of nearly the same size as the former, but -destitute of that covering or white membrane which envelops the eggs; -then follow those for the third year,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_441" id="page_441"></a>{441}</span> about the size of musket-balls; -for the fourth year, of the calibre for a fowling-piece; for the fifth -year, they are no bigger than buckshot; and at this rate they decrease -until they present a confused mass resembling turnip and mustard-seed; -and God only knows for how many years those creatures are endowed with -similar receptacles of life in embryo.”</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>This much was observed and related concerning the turtles of Orinoco by -the reverend missionary father in the early part of the seventeenth -century: let us now hear what the great philosopher of modern times says -in regard to these humble creatures; for he, too, spent several days -among the children of nature during the “harvest” of eggs and turtles -provided for them by their beneficent mother.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>“I acquired some general statistical notions on the spot, by consulting -the missionary of Urvana, his lieutenant, and the traders of Angostura. -The shore of Urvana furnishes one thousand botijas, or jars of oil -annually. The price of each jar at Angostura varies from two piastres to -two and a half. We may admit that the total produce of the three shores, -where the <i>cosecha</i>, or gathering of eggs, is annually made, is five -thousand botijas. Now, as two hundred eggs yield oil enough to fill a -bottle (limeta), it requires five thousand eggs for a jar or botija of -oil. Estimating at one hundred, or one hundred and sixteen, the number -of eggs that one tortoise produces, and reckoning that one-third of -these is broken at the time of laying,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_442" id="page_442"></a>{442}</span> particularly by the ‘mad -tortoises,’ we may presume that, to obtain annually five thousand jars -of oil, three hundred and thirty thousand <i>arrau</i> tortoises, the weight -of which amounts to one hundred and sixty-five thousand quintals, must -lay thirty-three millions of eggs on the three shores where this harvest -is gathered. The results of these calculations are much below the truth. -Many tortoises lay only sixty or seventy eggs; and a great number of -these animals are devoured by jaguars at the moment they emerge from the -water. The Indians bring away a great number of eggs, to eat them dried -in the sun; and they break a considerable number through carelessness -during the gathering. The number of eggs that are hatched before the -people can dig them up is so prodigious, that near the encampment of -Urvana I saw the whole shore of the Orinoco swarming with little -tortoises an inch in diameter, escaping with difficulty from the pursuit -of the Indian children. If to these considerations be added, that all -the <i>arraus</i> do not assemble on the three shores of the encampment; and -that there are many which lay their eggs in solitude, and some weeks -later, between the mouth of the Orinoco and the confluence of the Apure; -we must admit that the number of turtles which annually deposit their -eggs on the banks of the Lower Orinoco, is near a million. This number -is very great for so large an animal. In general large animals multiply -less considerably than the smaller ones.”<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_443" id="page_443"></a>{443}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_31" id="ill_31"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 70px;"> -<a href="images/illus-b443_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b443_sml.jpg" width="70" height="404" alt="Image unavailable: Arrow used in Turtle Shooting." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Arrow used in Turtle Shooting.</span> -</div> - -<p>So extraordinary do these things appear to those not conversant with the -wonders of South America, that, to strengthen my statements, I am often -compelled to quote from more familiar writers on this subject, for fear -of being accused of exaggeration, as has already happened with reference -to one simple fact of every-day occurrence among Indian hunters. I -allude to the mode of shooting turtles and crocodiles with arrows of a -peculiar construction, referred to at page 109, and which appeared for -the first time in previous editions of my <i>Wild Scenes in South -America</i>. The <i>London Saturday Review</i> of July 11th, 1863, commenting -upon this—to others than the practised eye of an Indian—most -extraordinary feat of skill, appeals to one of the best mathematicians -in the kingdom to learn if such a thing can be done at all; although in -other respects the remarks of the reviewer are highly flattering to the -book. I will endeavor to show, on this occasion, that nothing is easier -when you know how to do it, in support of which I could do no better -than appeal also to the testimony of English authorities. Both Wallace -and Bates mention the fact in their respective<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_444" id="page_444"></a>{444}</span> books of travel on the -Amazon and Rio Negro; and the latter accompanies his remarks with an -accurate representation of the arrow used for that purpose, which I -reproduce on the previous page, with the following paragraph alluding to -the mode of using it:</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>“Cardozo and I spent an hour paddling about. I was astonished at the -skill which the Indians display in shooting turtles. They did not wait -for their coming to the surface to breathe, but watched for the slight -movements in the water, which revealed their presence underneath. These -little tracks on the water are called the Siriri; the instant one was -perceived, an arrow flew from the bow of the nearest man, and never -failed to pierce the shell of the submerged animal. When the turtle was -very distant, of course the aim had to be taken at a considerable -elevation, but the marksmen preferred a longish range, because the arrow -then fell <i>perpendicularly</i> on the shell, and entered it more -deeply.”<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The writer goes on then to describe the arrow, which corresponds in -every particular with my own description of it at page 109. <i>En -passant</i>, I will remark here that both books containing it came out in -London about the same time; and I would recommend to lovers of travel -and adventure the perusal of Mr. Bates’ interesting chapter on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_445" id="page_445"></a>{445}</span> -harvest of turtles’ eggs among the sand-islands of the mighty Amazon, as -well as Humboldt’s narrative on the same subject among those of its -brother river, the Orinoco; both are exceedingly entertaining.</p> - -<p>But what will the mathematicians and military men of Great Britain, or -any other country, say, when I tell them of an Indian who, for a small -consideration, would strike a <i>medio-real</i>—half a dime—with an arrow -at an angle of 85°? This was done by placing the money on the top of a -lime or lemon close to the big toe of the archer’s left foot; he then -would bend backwards, assisted by the right one, allowing a sufficient -space between the bow and the lime for the arrow to turn down after -being shot up in the air; and so certain was the aim that the savage -made quite a little fortune about the streets of Caracas, where he -exhibited his skill during the short visit which his Cacique paid -President Paez at the Capital.</p> - -<p>It is also related of another Indian that he could shoot a buzzard -soaring above his head without looking at the bird, guided only by the -shadow cast upon the ground about midday. In connection with this the -reader will find in the work of the Rev. J. C. Fletcher, <i>Brazil and the -Brazilians</i>, a wood-cut representing an Indian archer shooting on his -back at a flock of ducks passing over him. A large and strong bow is -bent by his legs while he holds the butt-end of the arrow in his -hands—“In this way they are able to shoot game at a great distance.”</p> - -<p>Although these things appear very wonderful to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_446" id="page_446"></a>{446}</span> us, who cannot even -“draw a bow at a venture,” we should recollect that the very existence -of the savage depends upon the accuracy of his aim as, with lightning -speed, he flings the unerring arrow at his prey. No one thinks of -doubting the historical story about the Parthian children who were -obliged to bring down their morning’s meal from the top of a post with a -much more clumsy instrument—the <i>sling</i>, thereby acquiring the -wonderful dexterity for which their warriors were famed.</p> - -<p>Some may be inclined to doubt the truth of the stories found in profane -history, but will not dispute the testimony of Scripture, wherein we are -told that the giant-warrior Goliah was slain by the youth David, with -only the help of a sling and a “ pebble from the brook.” It may be said -that it was by Divine aid that David hit the mark so skillfully; but who -shall presume to say that such aid is withheld, because the being -requiring it is a savage and not one of the chosen race?</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>And now, my dear reader, though such wonderful exhibitions of skill as -are related above, may appear to your mind as savoring strongly of the -proverbial exaggeration which is supposed to accompany the relation of -all extraordinary feats of the chase, yet, if we reflect on the thousand -examples which come under our daily observation, illustrating the -marvelous inventive powers of man, and the manual skill required to -produce and apply many of his inventions, you cannot but conclude with -me that there are latent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_447" id="page_447"></a>{447}</span> powers given to us by the great Master, which, -when awakened by necessity, can surmount obstacles and attain ends -involving a degree of physical as well as mental perfection almost -superhuman. A constant supply of food is the first and greatest demand -of nature. To attain this, the inhabitants of the vast wilds of South -America have no other resource than the game which their streams and -forests afford; the acmé of their savage education is to excel in the -skill and cunning of the chase; their hunting implements are necessarily -rude and imperfect; consequently, great accuracy of aim, and steadiness -of nerve are required in their successful application.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_448" id="page_448"></a>{448}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">HOMEWARD BOUND.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> now accomplished the most difficult part of our labors, namely, -that of transporting three thousand wild animals across a rising stream -by such primitive means, we took advantage of the few canoes at our -disposal to transfer ourselves and chattels to the other side of the -river. This was not so easily done, as the <i>creciente</i> was rapidly -gaining upon us, with no small risk to our ponderous equipment, which -had to be landed on the sandy beach; and unless quickly removed, while -waiting for another canoe-load, our traps were in constant danger of -being carried off by the boisterous waves of the river. I had thus the -misfortune of being deprived of my hammock, which circumstance compelled -me to seek repose at night on the stiff hide covers of the baggage—not -a very comfortable couch after a hard ride in the hot sun.</p> - -<p>Our long train of baggage-mules and wild beasts necessitated many -stoppages by the way in order to incorporate stragglers, but more -frequently to hunt anew the runaways among the latter—not an easy -task.</p> - -<p><a name="ill_32" id="ill_32"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/illus-b448a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/illus-b448a_sml.jpg" width="540" height="327" alt="Image unavailable: HOMEWARD BOUND." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">HOMEWARD BOUND.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_449" id="page_449"></a>{449}</span></p> - -<p>The bulls especially showed a marked reluctance to leave behind their -bellowing harems in the everglades across the river. Such was their love -of home in this respect, that we were assured that most of those which -succeeded in evading our pursuit, made their way back to their savannas -in spite of the broad expanse of water which separated them. Much -valuable time and patience were lost in this way, while the increasing -inundation was following fast on our steps, so much so, that long after -we had left the banks of the river on our rear, we had to wade through a -continuous sheet of water, which was every moment rising above the -fetlocks of our beasts. We also had to ford several smaller streams, -already swollen by the rapid rise of the Apure; but, as no canoes could -be had amidst those wilds, for love or money, we availed ourselves of -the primitive contrivance devised on such occasions by means of a raw -hide fashioned into a lighter. The trunks and boxes were carefully piled -inside the skin, and if a person chose to avail himself of this frail -barge, he had only to sit steadily on the top of the baggage; the load -was then carefully launched on the water, the other end of the rope -intrusted to the swimmer and towed in safety to the other side. In this -manner our ponderous Doctor and a few others who were unwilling to -expose their own skin to the tender mercies of the caribes, were -successfully ferried across, although it required a steady nerve not to -stir an inch and thus upset the whole concern.</p> - -<p>Our march across the prairies presented a splendid sight and was -suggestive of a long file of prisoners<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_450" id="page_450"></a>{450}</span> after a well-contested field of -battle. At the head of the column, which extended for upward of a mile, -marched a strong picket of horsemen, the <i>Punteros</i>, guiding the -caravan; and on the sides and rear was another file of men with lazos -ready to unfold after deserters. Lively tunes and whistling were kept up -by the men for the diversion of the cattle, which appeared quite -delighted with the music and in consequence became less restive on the -march.</p> - -<p>When near San Jaime, I, together with a party of young companions, -having separated ourselves from the rest and taken another route, lost -ourselves in the intricate passes leading to the village. This -circumstance, although it delayed us for some time from reaching the -camp, led us to an abundant field of rich honey, the production of a -small wasp called <i>matajey</i>, which builds its nest on the branches of -the trees, in the shape of a large ball. The sting of this insect is so -distressing, that persons affected by it become feverish and benumbed; -therefore, in order to possess ourselves of its delicious honey-combs, -we took the precaution to smoke out the wasps by means of a burning rag -at the end of a long pole applied to the mouth of the nest, when the -whole swarm abandoned it to the hunters without molestation.</p> - -<p>It was almost dark when we arrived at San Jaime, having hit accidentally -upon the right path, after wandering the whole day through the woods; -but, being well supplied with honey and water, we did not regret as much -the loss of our dinner, as the fact of its having been prepared by -another kind of swarm, but this time of pretty girls, who had assembled -for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_451" id="page_451"></a>{451}</span> the purpose at the cottage of our hospitable host. We enjoyed, -however, the pleasure of their unsophisticated society for some time -before retiring to our hammocks where, fatigued by the toils of our -previous adventure, we speedily lost ourselves again in “sweet, balmy -sleep.”</p> - -<p>Being rather in a hurry to reach the pass before a sudden rise of the -creeks connected with the river Portuguesa, we were up long before -sunrise, and had barely time to partake of a substantial breakfast, -prepared by our charming entertainers.</p> - -<p>Immediately upon our arrival at the pass, we proceeded to force our -cattle across the river, which being less wide than the Apure, and our -herds having become more manageable after the long march, we were -enabled to execute it in better order and less time than at the former -river. Still we contrived somehow or other to tarry here longer than was -necessary, having wasted three days in accomplishing what might have -been the work of one. The fact is, that we were rather taken up with our -former feminine acquaintances, especially at the close of day, when the -party assembled in the barracoon, destined for the <i>fandango</i>, which was -usually kept up the whole night.</p> - -<p>Fitful accompaniment to these nocturnal revelries was the deafening -croaking of the toads and frogs, now abounding by myriads in the marshes -and quagmires of the vicinity. The shrill, metallic notes of the frogs, -and the hoarse croaking of their milky brethren, are a feature which -never fails to excite the astonishment of strangers in those regions. -The former especially are so striking, that were an Englishman<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_452" id="page_452"></a>{452}</span> or -American suddenly transported there, without knowledge of these sounds, -he would imagine himself at home, in the neighborhood of ten thousand -steam whistles. I was assured by our friend B., with reference to the -toads of Guadarrama, a village on the banks of the Portuguese, that one -night he was thrown down in the street by coming in contact with one of -these creatures, which he mistook for a boy in a stooping posture. -Indignant at, what he supposed, the indiscretion of the fellow, B. was -in the act of kicking him away when, to his surprise, he perceived the -seeming boy slowly moving off in the shape of a big toad!</p> - -<p>This, of course, is another of B.’s great yarns, which he endeavored to -pass on us as veritable facts occurring to him during his wandering -peregrinations; but really, putting aside his extravagant stories, such -is the volume of voice and long-sustained sopranos, bassos, and -contraltos of the toads and frogs of South America, that one would -suppose they had lungs as big as those of a manatí. And as regards the -size that these creatures attain here, I may quote a passage from a -recent book of travels in those countries which, had it not appeared in -London simultaneously with the first edition of the <i>Wild Scenes in -South America</i>,<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> any one might be inclined to think—after reading -the preceding remarks—that they had been suggested by the perusal of -the following paragraphs:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_453" id="page_453"></a>{453}</span></p> - -<p>“In soft, dripping weather, the country roads become almost impassable, -and my favorite resource was to sit still and read Tennyson or -Longfellow; but the studies of a novice in Brazil, on a wet evening, are -strangely interrupted by the extraordinary proceedings of frogs and -toads of all sorts and sizes, which testify their exuberant joy by the -most discordant noises. Croaking is no name for it. Some of the milder -and quieter kinds may perhaps be said to croak, but these are soon -silenced by another tribe, whose name is Legion, grunting, snorting, and -shrieking like a railway train at full speed; and when they stop for -want of breath, the ‘wondrous song’ is taken up by larger numbers of -other detestable batrachyans, which keep up a frantic revel of rattling -and clattering, such as I have never heard equalled, except by an -intoxicated chorus of May sweeps.</p> - -<p>“Some of the toads are enormous. In one of my mountain rambles I -suddenly spied a very beautiful lycopodium growing in large quantities -on a moist bank, and, without looking at my feet, sprang across the path -to gather a specimen. I stumbled over something very hard and immovable, -and nearly measured my length in the mud; but I seized the lycopodium, -and then turned round to look at the obstacle. It was a monstrous toad, -nearly a foot long, with great yellow pits around its spiteful eyes, and -as ugly a brute as ever I saw. He did not make the least attempt to -move, and seemed to be chuckling over the fact of nearly upsetting a -traveller. A friend of mine, however, told me that he had been offered a -still larger<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_454" id="page_454"></a>{454}</span> specimen as a present, which he declined to accept on the -ground of ferocity. He said it was as big as a hat, it opened its mouth -like an oyster, barked like a dog, and flew at his legs! A nice pet to -keep in a strawberry-bed!”<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p> - -<p>But I never was so struck with the power which frogs alone can exert “in -congress assembled,” as one night that I accompanied—soon after our -return from the Llanos—a military expedition to surprise a band of -revolutionists, who had been committing all sorts of depredations on the -plantations across the lake, and were preparing to attack the town of -Villa de Cura on the road to the plains. We started from Maracay in the -early part of a rainy night, and had to take a circuitous route—it -hardly deserved the name of road—around the eastern end of the lake to -reach the village of Magdaleno (headquarters of the marauders) before -daylight. As the expedition had to be conducted with much precaution, -neither drums nor bugles were allowed; consequently all orders had to be -given <i>viva-voce</i>. But when we reached the nearest point to the swampy -borders of the lake, I do not believe that even Stentor could have made -himself heard in the midst of that hellish uproar. To add to our -“confusion worse confounded,” the soil was so spongy and drenched with -the vernal deluge, that infantry and cavalry—we had no artillery—were -nearly swallowed up by the mud before firing a shot at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_455" id="page_455"></a>{455}</span> enemy; -fortunately we extricated ourselves before the latter were apprized of -our approach by a volley fired at our vanguard by one of their advanced -posts near the village, which, had they exhibited the least judgment in -military tactics, they might have stationed a little further off, where -we encountered a turbulent stream which only a portion of our force with -the utmost difficulty could cross. As it turned out, we entered the -village pell-mell with their advanced guard, and soon scattered them -over the neighboring mountains, where further pursuit was utterly -impossible.</p> - -<p>What a glorious chance these swampy realms of Venezuela would offer some -French gourmand desirous of migrating to South America! And yet, strange -to say, our people will not touch that epicurean <i>bonne-bouche</i>, which -has conferred a name upon a whole civilized nation: <i>les sauvages!</i></p> - -<p>Another noisy creature that makes its appearance about this time also, -is the <i>chicharra</i>, an insect of the locust tribe, with which the woods -are literally filled, and whose sharp, shrill, and continuous chant -almost surpasses that of the frogs themselves. Fortunately, they are -only heard in the day-time; and our route being mostly over open -prairies, we were not so constantly tormented by them, except whenever -we had to pass through the woods infested by these noisy insects. It -seemed to me that for every leaf of those truly gigantic trees there -were twenty <i>chicharras</i>, all singing at the top of their voices, -without the least intermission. What they live upon—for I did not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_456" id="page_456"></a>{456}</span> -perceive any damage to the foliage of the trees—and when do they get -their meals, my observations could not discover. Sullivan tells us of -two other insects of the tropics, which joined to the above, might rival -the nocturnal concerts of <i>maître crapeau</i>.</p> - -<p>“During our ride, I was startled by hearing what I fully imagined was -the whistle of a steam-engine; but I was informed it was a noise caused -by a beetle that is peculiar to Tobago. It is near the size of a man’s -hand; and fixing itself against a branch commences a kind of drumming -noise, which by degrees quickens to a whistle. It was so loud that, when -standing fully twenty yards from the tree where it was in operation, the -sound was so shrill that you had to raise your voice considerably to -address your neighbor. The entomological productions of the tropics -struck me as being quite as astonishing in size and nature as the -botanical or zoological wonders. There is another beetle, called the -razor-grinder, that imitates the sound of a knife-grinding machine so -exactly, that it is impossible to divest oneself of the belief that one -is in reality listening to ‘some needy knife-grinder’ who has wandered -out to the tropical wilds on spec.”<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a></p> - -<p>Some kinds of trees were also alive with another, though quite harmless -tenant, the <i>iguana</i>, a green lizard measuring nearly four feet in -length, and thick in proportion round the body, whose flesh is said to -surpass that of the tenderest chicken, and, I imagine—never having -tasted it—even that of the celebrated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_457" id="page_457"></a>{457}</span> French <i>bonne-bouche</i> referred -to above. The eggs which it lays in great profusion, I know from -personal experience, are quite sweet, and can be taken out of the -animal, without injury to the harmless creature, by cutting it open and -sewing it up again. While at San Jaime I heard a story in connection -with this reptile, which is very characteristic of the Spanish -commanders during the war of Independence, and whose memory is still -fresh throughout the country they overran with their exactions. It -appears that one of these gentlemen newly arrived from Spain, had -established his headquarters at San Jaime, which was by this time pretty -well cleaned out of everything that moved upon the earth. One day, the -<i>soi-disant</i> commander was going his rounds about the town, when he met -an Indian boy carrying a brace of <i>iguanas</i> suspended from a stick upon -his shoulders; these lizards, by virtue of their aerial prerogative, or -perhaps on account of their inexhaustible numbers, having escaped the -general onslaught upon other living creatures, not excepting the -inhabitants. The Spaniard, who had never seen iguanas in his country, -naturally had his curiosity aroused, and at once instituted as close an -interrogatory respecting these, as if a doomed “insurgent” had been -brought to him. “Say, boy, are they good to eat?”—“<i>Si, Señor</i>,” -replied the boy, who probably had never tasted in his life any other -kind of food.—“What will you take for them?” (quite -considerate).—“<i>Una peseta, Señor</i>” (a quarter of a dollar). A bargain -was at once made to the satisfaction of both parties, and the iguanas -were handed over to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_458" id="page_458"></a>{458}</span> the orderly beside the commander, who gave the -proper directions to have them served for dinner; and so delighted was -His Excellency with the dish, that he published at once a <i>bando</i> -offering a reward of twenty-five cents for every brace of iguanas -brought to him. Three days afterwards he had to countermand the order -through another <i>bando</i>, threatening with capital punishment any one who -would <i>dare</i> to bring him another brace of the horrid-looking creatures, -with which the juvenile portion of the town had by this time filled his -headquarters.</p> - -<p>The favorite haunts of the iguana are the Ceiba, and the Sand-box -trees—<i>Ura crepitans</i>—both bristling with sharp thorns, a good -protection against the persecution of predatory boys; otherwise these -lizards fall an easy prey, when perched upon more accessible localities, -by merely “whistling for them;” for being, as it appears, very fond of -musical sounds, they are readily lulled to sleep by that means, while -the captors prepare a noose at the end of a long rod with which they -secure their victim. They do not always fare badly, however, for being -easily domesticated, they are kept as pets by the female portion of the -household, where they become very useful in ridding the cottage of -cockroaches and other vermin. Their bitterest enemies, however, are -roving, lazy Indians, who not only consider them a dainty morsel, but -take particular delight in tormenting these inoffensive creatures by -quartering them alive, and teazing them in various ways; thus, when any -person is in a bad plight his troubles are compared to those of the -iguana<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_459" id="page_459"></a>{459}</span> in that predicament, as will be seen in the following popular -ditty:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Los trabajos de la iguana<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Cuando los Indios la cojen,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Le quitan los cuatro patas<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Y le dicen, iguana, corre!<br /></span> - -<span class="i5">——<br /></span> - -<span class="i0">When Indians seize the iguana<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Her sorrows are begun,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">They cut off her four feet,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And cry, “Iguana, run!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>How different the case would have been if, instead of the puny, harmless -creatures that iguanas are at the present day, their cruel tormentors -had lived in the times of their prototype, the <i>Iguanodon</i>, the most -colossal of the saurian reptiles, sixty feet in length, with a horn on -its snout as formidable as that of the rhinoceros, and teeth sharp -enough to munch to a jelly the most stately Ceiba or Sand-box tree. “It -is difficult to resist the feeling of astonishment, not to say -incredulity”—observes Figuier—“which creeps over one while -contemplating the disproportion so striking between this being of the -ancient world and its congener of the new.”<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> The Iguanodon was in -fact an iguana of huge dimensions, enjoying the freedom of the jungle -with the <i>Hylæosaurus</i> and the <i>Megalosaurus</i>—two other saurian -monsters of the cretaceous period. The latter is represented as -possessing teeth in perfect accord with the destructive functions -developed in this formidable creature, for they partake at once of the -knife, the sabre, and the saw.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_460" id="page_460"></a>{460}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.<br /><br /> -<span class="ttl">CALABOZO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">While</span> quietly absorbed one day in the pleasures of the angler by the -banks of a creek not far from the camp, I was startled in my peaceful -occupation by the report of fire-arms in that direction. There were -rumors concerning the depredations of a band of robbers in that -neighborhood, and therefore I had every reason to suppose they had been -bold enough to attack our little band of resolute men with a view to -plundering the camp. To pack up lines and portfolio was the work of an -instant, and hurrying toward the camp, I arrived breathless and panting -with fatigue in time to get the last glimpses of the cause of this -uproar in the shape of a <i>lancha</i> gliding quickly down the river. It -seems that the boatmen, delighted with the presence of the beloved -Chieftain of the Llanos, immediately recurred to the usual way of -expressing their enthusiasm, whether in peace or war, through the means -of the all-potent gunpowder. In the afternoon of the same day a -detachment of horse, composed for the most part of citizens from -Calabozo,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_461" id="page_461"></a>{461}</span> arrived at the pass to invite the general to their city, and -to offer him protection, in case of need, from the band of desperadoes -above mentioned; these had already been bold enough to attack the prison -guard of Calabozo, with the object of carrying off one of its inmates, a -prominent citizen of the place who had been implicated in the robbery of -a large drove of mules. Although it was currently reported that his two -sons were the perpetrators of this unworthy act, yet, the fact that the -animals were found on his estate, and his stout refusal to implicate his -sons, made him responsible for the robbery; he was therefore -incarcerated and his trial had commenced when his sons, adding sedition -to theft, attacked the prison during the night with a band of peons from -their own and other cattle estates. The result was most disastrous to -the assailants; one of the sons having been badly wounded in the strife -was taken prisoner and shot in the public square; while the other -forfeited his life soon after during the vigorous persecution undertaken -by the citizens against his band. Yet, this handful of men, badly armed -and without leaders, but with a wide field of forest and savannas for -retreat, and plenty of cattle for subsistence, continued for a long time -to engage the serious attention of the government; and finally, when the -following revolution broke out, they formed the nucleus around which the -rebel party mustered very strong. In this manner many depredators not -only evade the punishment of justice for their crimes, but eventually -rise in importance, and even become leading spirits in the land where -the laws are powerless in repressing their excesses.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_462" id="page_462"></a>{462}</span></p> - -<p>With this encouraging prospect before us, we bade adieu to the gay -brunettes of La Portuguesa and took the straightest route to Calabozo, -across the great <i>estero</i> or swamp of Camaguan. An entire day was spent -in wading through this refreshing transit route, which, owing to the -increasing rise of the river, had already acquired the aspect of a broad -lake. Our horses were most of the time immersed in the water up to the -saddle girths, and few of them escaped total submersion, wherever there -were any depressions of the ground. Many of the baggage mules -especially, having no rider to guide them, lost their footing and rolled -in the water, to the great discomfort of those who had any articles of -apparel in their loads. Toward the afternoon we emerged from this dismal -swamp and made a landing at a place called Banco Largo, celebrated in -the annals of the horse epidemic as the cattle estate upon which the -wrath of Heaven fell after the blasphemous boasting of its owner.</p> - -<p>We were beginning to appreciate the comfort of riding again upon firm -ground, when we observed a group of horsemen emerging from the palmar on -our right, galloping in the direction of our scouts, as if threatening -to cut them off. Fearing lest they might be the band of robbers whom we -had every reason to suspect of evil intentions, we put spurs to our -horses in hot chase of them. Mistaking us in turn for those gentry, the -strangers pushed on ahead of us to evade our pursuit. Our scouts -observing their retreat cut off by a larger force, were not slow in -their endeavors to reach the farm-house, where they could defend -themselves against the supposed robbers until we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_463" id="page_463"></a>{463}</span> could come up to their -assistance. The suspected party being mounted on fresh horses, we found -it difficult, however, to overtake them. Fortunately one of their horses -stumbled accidentally in a hole, throwing down the rider, which -circumstance placed him in our hands; from him we ascertained that they -were not <i>salteadores</i>, but <i>vaqueros</i> from a neighboring cattle farm, -whom the annoyances of the <i>mosquilla</i> had compelled to ride through the -palmar at robber’s speed. His companions observing that we permitted him -to depart in peace, now slackened their pace, and had their fears -dispelled before they could carry the alarm to other places that the -<i>salteadores</i> were close at hand.</p> - -<p>At Venegas, a cattle State not far from Calabozo, we parted company with -our herds, abandoning their care and guidance to the efficient caporals, -while we proceeded direct to the Palmyra of the Llanos, always escorted -by the citizen-guard who had come so far to meet us. Another deputation -from the city, composed of the most prominent persons in the place, met -us at the pass of the Guárico, and after a few congratulatory -compliments, we rode on without stopping until we reached the village of -the Mision de Abajo. Here we remained long enough to change our wet -garments and partake of a collation prepared at the summer residence of -an old soldier of Independence. This village is famous on account of -several crystalline springs issuing from deep gullies made by the water -on a hard conglomerate composed of sand, pebbles, and nodules of -beautiful agates; the whole cemented together by a calcareous substance, -consisting probably<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_464" id="page_464"></a>{464}</span> of minute shells of infusoria.<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> Some of the -pools measure several fathoms in depth; yet the water is so transparent, -that the smallest pebble can be clearly discerned at the bottom; I also -noticed many small fish. These sparkling natural fountains were shaded -by groves of balsamiferous plants, such as copaiferas, amyris, and -carob-trees, the dark foliage of which was relieved by a carpet of green -grass extending for miles around, the whole presenting an appearance of -a well-cultivated and beautifully laid out English park. Thither resort, -during the sultry months of summer, the inhabitants of Calabozo, who now -came out in vast numbers to welcome us to their beautiful city.</p> - -<p>The procession was formed on the extensive natural lawn, three miles in -length, between the village and the city, which rose in the distance -amidst the towering foliage of the fan-palms surrounding it in oriental -magnificence. As we entered the narrow, but cleanly streets, the firing -of muskets, pistols, and blunderbusses commenced amidst the <i>vivas</i> of -the population, while a shower of roses fell on the favored head of the -“Lion of the Llanos,”<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> as he passed under the windows of the houses.</p> - -<p>The city of Calabozo, capital of the province of El Guárico, is situated -upon the northern extremity of the <i>mesa</i> or plateau of the same name, -commanding<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_465" id="page_465"></a>{465}</span> an extensive view of the picturesque country watered by the -beautiful river which gives its name to the province. Unlike all the -other towns of the Llanos, Calabozo is an extremely well-built city, -with streets running at right angles. The houses are neat and -commodious, ranking with the best in the capital of the republic. It -contains a number of fine churches, one of which was built at the -expense of a wealthy cattle proprietor of the place; it is one of the -finest temples in the country.</p> - -<p>Words cannot do justice to the enthusiastic reception and boundless -hospitality extended to us on this occasion by the generous inhabitants. -In addition to the regular entertainments, such as breakfast and -dinner-parties, balls, and <i>fandangos</i> provided daily in their city -residences, we were occasionally treated to a <i>fête champêtre, á la -llanera</i>, in their <i>quintas</i> or country-houses. Most of these are -situated on the banks of the beautiful Guárico, on the slopes of the -plateau upon which the city is built; and there, amidst the most -luxuriant groves of orange, lemon, and other tropical fruits, the -abundant fare was served to us in true Llanero style. In the mean time -the <i>trovatori</i> of the Llanos did not fail to enliven the scene with -their never-ending <i>trovas llaneras</i>, in which especial mention was made -of the most prominent persons to whom we were indebted for this -munificent hospitality; but more particularly to the past deeds of the -personage who prompted it. The broad fan-shaped leaves of the -<i>moriche</i>-palm. (Mauritia flexuosa)—the celebrated Tree of Life of the -Warraoun Indians—supplied the most appropriate table-cloths on these<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_466" id="page_466"></a>{466}</span> -occasions, spread in the vicinity of some murmuring spring, issuing in -most cases from the foot of the palm-trees. The natives believe that -this plant possesses the power of pumping water from the ground by means -of its matted roots: they evidently confound cause and effect in this, -as well as in many other cases; for this luxuriant palm will not thrive -except in moist ground. The slopes of the <i>mesa</i> acting as a vast drain -to the plain above, offer this desideratum to the <i>moriche</i>-palm. Some -of the springs are of a thermal character, but not too warm to prevent -persons enjoying a most refreshing bath. I noticed, in one instance, two -springs running side by side, one of which was cold and the other warm. -The tide-flooded lands on the Lower Orinoco and Amazon rivers seem to be -particularly adapted to the development of this noble<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> species of -palm. “In those places,” says Wallace,<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> “there is no underwood to -break the view among interminable ranges of huge columnar trunks, rising -unbroken by branch or leaf to the height of eighty or a hundred feet, a -vast natural temple, which does not yield in grandeur and sublimity to -those of Palmyra or Athens.”</p> - -<p>A full-grown leaf of this tree is quite a load for one man to carry. The -petiole, or leaf-stock, is a solid beam ten or twelve feet long, while -the leaf or fan itself measures nine or ten across. The fruit, in -bunches of three hundred and upward, perfectly resembles the cones of -the white pine. When arrived at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_467" id="page_467"></a>{467}</span> its maturity, it is yellow within and -scarlet without, covered with scales.</p> - -<p>The benefits of this life-supporting tree may be reckoned as numerous as -the number of days in the year. From the unopened leaves the wild man of -the forest obtains a fibre remarkable for its toughness, and which he -twists into cordage for his bow-string and fishing tackle, or weaves it -into elegant hammocks and aprons for himself and family; he also plats -them neatly into mats and cloaks, and even sails for his canoe; when -fully expanded, these leaves form the best thatch for his hut. From the -terminal bud or inner layer of leaves, commonly styled the cabbage of -the palm, the Indian procures a vegetable quite analogous to, and more -tender and delicious than a similar production of the garden. The fruit -in like manner affords a variety of alimentary substances, according to -the season in which it is gathered, whether its saccharine pulp is fully -mature, or whether it is in a green state. Like the plantain and the -celebrated peach-palm of the Rio Negro, it is either eaten raw, when -fully ripe, or roasted—in the latter case tasting very much like -chestnuts. Soaked in water and allowed to ferment, it forms a pleasant -drink somewhat resembling <i>pulque</i>. The ripe fruit also yields by -boiling in water, an oil which is readily converted into soap by means -of the ashes of a Clusia, (<i>quiripití</i>.) “The spathe, too—a fibrous bag -which envelops the fruit before maturity—is much valued by the Indian, -furnishing him with an excellent and durable cloth. Taken off entire, it -forms bags in which he keeps the red paint for his toilet, or the silk -cotton for his arrows,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_468" id="page_468"></a>{468}</span> or he even stretches out the larger ones to make -himself a cap, cunningly woven by nature without a seam or joining. When -cut open longitudinally and pressed flat, it is used to preserve his -delicate feather ornaments and gala dresses, which are kept in a chest -of plaited palm-leaves between layers of smooth <i>bussú</i> cloth.”<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> The -trunk of the male tree contains a farinaceous meal, <i>yuruma</i>, resembling -sago, and like the fecula of the tapioca-root, it is readily converted -into bread by simply drying it on hot earthen plates. Allowed to rot in -the stem, this meal gives birth to numerous fat worms, highly esteemed -by Indian gourmands. Tapped near the base of the leaves, the trunk -yields also an abundance of a sweet liquor, which, when fermented, forms -one of the various kinds of palm-wines. Such are in substance some of -the most useful products of this veritable tree of life, with which the -existence of a rude people is as intimately connected, as that of -civilized man is with the luxuries and comforts that surround his home. -“When the Tamanacks,” says Humboldt, “are asked how the human race -survived the great deluge, the ‘age of water’ of the Mexicans, they say: -‘a man and a woman saved themselves on a high mountain, called Tamanacu, -situated on the banks of the Asiberu, and casting the fruit of the -moriche-palm, they saw the seeds contained in these fruits produce men -and women who repeopled the earth.’ Thus we find in all its simplicity, -among nations now in a savage state, a tradition which the Greeks -embellished with all the charms of imagination.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_469" id="page_469"></a>{469}</span></p> - -<p>To protect themselves from the attacks of mosquitoes and wild beasts, -the tribes roaming over the great delta of the Orinoco, are in the habit -of raising between the huge trunks of the palm-trees hanging platforms -skilfully interwoven with the foliage, which allow them to live in the -trees like monkeys. The floor of these aërial habitations is covered -with a coating of mud, on which the fires for household purposes are -made. Thus when the first explorers of the Orinoco River penetrated for -the first time into that exuberant <i>terra incognita</i>, they were -surprised to observe, among the tops of the palm-trees, flames issuing -at night as if suspended in the air. “The Guaranis still owe the -preservation of their physical, and perhaps their moral independence, to -the half-submerged, marshy soil over which they roam with a light and -rapid step, and to their elevated dwellings in the trees, a habitation -never likely to be chosen from motives of religious enthusiasm by an -American Stylites.”<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a></p> - -<p>I also met for the first time at Calabozo with the most splendid -rose-bush, or rather tree, I had ever seen, and which appears to be -indigenous to that hot region, as I am told that the same grows in great -luxuriance at San Fernando and Ciudad Bolívar, but was unknown to the -rest of the country previous to our visit to the Llanos. Being -passionately fond of flowers myself, I did not neglect to bring along -with me this beautiful new variety to our home in the Valleys of Aragua, -where it soon displayed its countless<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_470" id="page_470"></a>{470}</span> blossoms to the admiring gaze of -the passers by. From thence it was also carried by me to Caracas, where -it soon became the general favorite of the fair dames of the Capital, -who by unanimous accord named it, not as might be supposed after the -introducer, but after his father, with which the former was equally well -satisfied; and certainly no more beautiful compliment could have been -paid their favorite champion, than by associating his name with the -acknowledged Queen of Beauty among flowers. The size attained by this -plant surpasses any thing of the kind with which I am acquainted. When -favored by a dry and hot climate like that of Calabozo, its shoots -attain a height of fifteen to twenty feet with a corresponding -thickness; so that a hammock with its usual load can be supported -between two trees; and as these put out a great number of branches, each -of them loaded with flowers or buds ready to expand, they present a -sight truly splendid. A hundred blossoms may be plucked each morning of -the year without marring its luxuriant beauty. I have myself counted -over one thousand buds on a single plant. These flowers are of a -delicate pink color, with very regular petals of a deciduous nature; so -that in detaching themselves from the calix, they cover the ground upon -which the parent grows, with a rosy carpet.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Sin flores y sin hermosas<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Qué fuera de los mortales?<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Bien habeis nacido, rosas,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Sobre el lodo de los males.”<br /></span> -<span class="i8">—<span class="smcap">Arolas.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_471" id="page_471"></a>{471}</span></p> - -<p class="c"><span class="ttl">TRANSLATION</span>.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Without beauty, without flowers,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">What would be this world of ours?<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Well, that e’en in misery dire<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Find we roses ’mid the mire.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The truth of the above sentiment we soon realized; from this time a -succession of misfortunes, commencing with a violent attack of fever -which nearly carried us all to the grave, and ending with the -destruction of our property and peaceful homes, followed one another -without intermission.</p> - -<p>The fever was doubtless induced by our previous exposure on the journey -and subsequent dissipations at Calabozo, although the city itself is one -of the healthiest spots in the republic. Unfortunately, our physician, -who was blessed with a very jealous wife, had been summoned home by his -better half on hearing of our approach to the fairy metropolis of the -Llanos. However, there were two or three medical gentlemen in the place, -and these, with the unremitting kindness and assistance of the ladies, -managed to keep us alive until a skilful physician, who had been sent -for, arrived from the Valleys of Aragua. The critical condition of our -respected Leader and sire particularly gave them serious fears, as the -fever in his case had commenced to assume a malignant character. Courier -after courier was despatched across the miry plains to hasten the -arrival of the doctor, while the generous inhabitants vied with each -other in the anxious cares with which they surrounded the sick-bed of -their beloved guest. Years have rolled on, and many changes have since -taken place, both<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_472" id="page_472"></a>{472}</span> in the affairs of the nation and in the fortunes of -the subject of these remarks; yet, their love for the “Martyr of San -Antonio,”<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> far from diminishing, seems to have increased during his -protracted exile; for, as late as 1861, after the overthrow of Monagas, -a petition addressed to Pres. Tovar asking his recall, and signed by all -the inhabitants of Calabozo, has come to hand, protesting in the -strongest terms against the impolicy and injustice of leaving him still -in exile when the nation most needs his counsel and influence. Justly -deprecating the horrors of civil war and the want of unity which have -existed in the republic since the downfall of the Monagas party, the -petitioners conclude with this feeling outburst of patriotic solicitude -for the absence of their favorite champion: “From the far-off shores of -the Arauca, to the sources of our own Guárico, our anxious horsemen -watch incessantly the far horizon, inquire from the passing breezes of -the destinies of the Hero, who has condemned himself to voluntary exile, -and then exclaim with a sigh: ‘Were he again to lead us on to battle, -Victory would be forthcoming, strengthened by Peace, and blessed by the -vanquished.’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_473" id="page_473"></a>{473}</span> ”</p> - -<h2><a name="CONCLUSION" id="CONCLUSION"></a>CONCLUSION.</h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Here</span>, courteous reader, end our rough journeys across the Llanos, and -our real troubles commence; for having been involved—contrary to my own -inclination, it must be owned—in the political strifes so prevalent in -Spanish America, I have been compelled to wander ever since, from land -to land, like the mysterious Jew of the French novelist, Eugene Sue, -with neither settled home nor abiding place of rest. What I saw and -learned worth relating during my peregrinations, hither and thither, -will make the subject of the <i>Second Series</i> of these sketches, which, -if your patience is not exhausted or my repertoire does not give out, I -trust to lay before you at no distant day. In the meantime you must -excuse any imperfections in the style and composition of this book, -considering that I write in a language which is not my own, and which -often perplexes even those who have more claims to it than myself, so -many are its grammatical irregularities.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>Vide</i> New York “Herald,” of July 17th and Aug. 5th, 1867.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>Vide</i> New York “World,” of Aug. 5th, 1866.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Author of “Brazil and the Brazilians.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> “Such is the state to which colonial politics and -mal-administration have during three centuries reduced a country which, -for natural wealth, may vie with all that is most wonderful on earth.” -</p> -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Humboldt</span>, <i>Travels</i>, vol. iii., c. 27. -</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The late discoveries made in Venezuelian Guiana prove that -the statements of Sir Walter Raleigh and other adventurers of his time -were not without foundation, as gold of the finest quality and in the -greatest abundance, is now gathered over an extent of territory -surpassing in richness and natural resources the famous California and -Australia placers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> “Rambles and Scrambles in North and South America.”, by -Edward Sullivan, Esq. London, 1852.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The writer is mistaken; the Saddle stands four or five -miles east of this point, which is called <i>La Cumbre</i>, or the Summit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Centigrade thermom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Humboldt—Travels.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Travels in Peru and India.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Gosse’s “Romance of Natural History.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Romance of Natural History.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> A species of Mimosa.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Slavery has since been abolished in Venezuela.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> “Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Andres Bello.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Sullivan.—Rambles and Scrambles in North and South -America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Linnæus, in his enthusiasm for the delightful beverage -obtained from the cacao bean, named the plant that produces it -<i>theobroma</i>—food for the gods.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Journeys across the Pampas.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Mons. de Lavayesse, in his interesting work on Venezuela, -makes some pertinent remarks on this subject worthy of the consideration -and study of learned physiologists. “Why is it,” he says, “that -individuals proceeding from a mixture of African and indigenous American -blood, have greater strength, finer forms, more intellectual faculties -and moral energy, than the Negro or Indian? Why, although the white be, -in general, superior in strength of body, mental powers, and in moral -force, to the aboriginal American and to the negro—why, I ask, are the -individuals born of the union of a white with an Indian woman, (the -Mestizos, for instance,) inferior in mental and corporeal qualities to -the Zambos? Why are the Mestizos generally distinguished by finer -figures, agreeable countenances, and in mildness and docility of their -dispositions? Why is the mulatto, son of a white and a negress, superior -to the Zambo in intellectual faculties, but his inferior in physical? -Why is it, that when those races are mixed, their progeny is remarkable -for a more healthy and vigorous constitution, and for more vital energy, -than the individuals born in the same climate of indigenous European or -African blood, without mixture?”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> See Humboldt, Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of -America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Since the above first appeared in print, I find this fact -corroborated by Sir J. Emerson Tennent, in his interesting “Sketches on -the <span class="smcap">Nat. Hist. of Ceylon</span>,” as practised by the natives of that island.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> <i>Rastrero</i>—a native of El Rastro—literally, a mean -rogue.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The eyes of crocodiles are green.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Centigrade Thermom. = 97° to 126° Fah.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Wanderings in South America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Dr. Lindley, speaking of the properties of Aristolochias -in general, and more especially of A. serpentaria—a North American -species—observes: “As its name implies, it is used as an antidote to -serpent bites, a quality in which several other species participate, -among which may be mentioned A. trilobata, a Jamaica plant, also -employed as a sudden and powerful sudorific; and the Cartagena A. -unguicida, concerning which Jaquin writes, that the juice of the root, -chewed and introduced into the mouth of a serpent, so stupefies it that -it may for a long time be handled with impunity; if the reptile is -compelled to swallow a few drops, it perishes in -convulsions.”—<i>Vegetable Kingdom.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> The Romance of Natural History—Second Series, chap. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> <i>Tio Tigre</i> and <i>Tio Conejo</i>—Uncle Tiger and Uncle -Rabbit. These are the heroes of endless adventures, the mother’s -never-failing source of amusement to her children, supposed to have -taken place in the woods of Venezuela.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Waterton’s “Wanderings in South America.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Gosse: The Romance of Natural History.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> The pulpy covering of the seeds of Bixa orellana.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Gosse: The Romance of Natural History—First Series, p. -281.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Raised by a warlike tribe of Indians inhabiting the -peninsula of La Goagira, on the Gulf of Maracaibo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> The pig-pen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Amateur.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Sheep-skin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> For explanation, <a href="#page_231">see page 231</a>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Howling monkey.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Horsemen furnished with lazos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Nevertheless, Paez took particular care to preserve the -breed of cattle on the plains of Apure. Notwithstanding that he was -continually engaged in war, he issued most effective orders to prevent -its extinction. The origin of all the cattle estates which are at -present to be found in Venezuela is to be traced to the Apure plains.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Uncle. A name by which the Llaneros frequently address -Paez.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> <i>Recollections of a Service of Three Years during the War -of Extermination in the Republics of Venezuela and Colombia.</i> London, -1828. See also <i>Campaigns and Cruises in Venezuela</i>. London, 1831.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> Autobiografia del General José A. Paez. Nueva York, 1867.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> <a href="#page_062">See page 62</a>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> <i>Natural History of Ceylon.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> Gosse, <i>Romance of Natural History</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> Travels on the Rio Negro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> “Piscidea erithryna and Jacquinia -armillaris.”—<i>Humboldt.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Guerior? This was the name of a town founded at the -confluence of the Paragua and Caroni rivers, long since destroyed or -abandoned.—<i>The Author.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> Keymis, the lieutenant of Raleigh.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> The first of the voyages undertaken at Raleigh’s expense -was in 1595; the second, that of Laurence Keymis, in 1696; the third, -described by Thomas Masham, in 1597; and the fourth, in 1617. The first -and the last only were performed by Raleigh in person. This celebrated -man was beheaded October the 29th, 1618.—<span class="smcap">Humboldt.</span></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> The predictions of the old Missionary of the Orinoco have -been singularly verified in these latter times by the still more recent -discoveries in Peru; for, as I write this, the news comes from that -country that, in the mountains of Chanchamayo, Upper Amazon, “some gold -mines have been discovered, which, for their abundance and richness, -surpass those of California.”—<i>Nacional</i>, of Lima.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> Jorge de Spira (George von Speier) and Felipe de Utre -(Utre, Von Huten), as well as Federmann, were all Germans.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> <a href="#front">See map, at frontispiece</a>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> Conquest of Peru, vol. ii., p. 164.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> “All fables have some real foundation; that of El Dorado -resembles those myths of antiquity which, travelling from country to -country, have been successively adapted to different -localities.”—<i>Humboldt</i>, vol. iii., p. 26, <i>Bohn’s Edition</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> Travels to the Equinoctial Regions.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> The Naturalist on the Amazon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> A kind of beer made from Indian-corn.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Humboldt, Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> The Naturalist on the Amazons, vol. ii., p. 260. London, -1863.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> See London Athenæum of August 3, 1863, which contains a -full review of both books.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> South American Sketches, by Thos. Woodbine Hinchliff, F. -R. G. S.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Rambles in North and South America.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> <i>La Terre avant le Déluge.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> See Darwin, Geology of the Pampas, pp. 129-171. Murray, -1852.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> Leon de los Llanos, or Leon de Payara—the appellation -given to General Pæz by the people after the action of San Juan de -Payara in 1837, when he defeated with his body-guard of sixty Llaneros -the forces of the rebel chieftain Farfan, numbering one thousand.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> Linneus, in his enthusiasm for the splendid family of -palms, calls them the princes of the vegetable kingdom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> Palms of the Amazon and Rio Negro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> Wallace, Palms of the Amazon and Rio Negro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> The followers of a sect founded in Syria by the fanatical -pillar-saint, Simeon Sinanites.—<span class="smcap">Humboldt.</span></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> <i>San Antonio</i>, an old castle in Cumaná, where General Paez -was kept in durance for nine months by the late ruler of Venezuela, -General José T. Monagas.</p></div> - -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels and adventures in South and -Central America, by Ramón Páez - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 52612-h.htm or 52612-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/6/1/52612/ - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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