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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/5249-0.txt b/5249-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..efbb84b --- /dev/null +++ b/5249-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5637 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in England in 1782, by Charles P. +Moritz, Edited by Henry Morley + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Travels in England in 1782 + + +Author: Charles P. Moritz + +Editor: Henry Morley + +Release Date: July 2, 2014 [eBook #5249] +[This file was first posted on June 11, 2002] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782*** + + +Transcribed from the 1886 Cassell & Company edition by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org + + + + + + TRAVELS IN ENGLAND + IN 1782 + + + * * * * * + + BY + + C. P. MORITZ. + + [Picture: Decorative graphic] + + CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited: + _LONDON_, _PARIS_, _NEW YORK & MELBOURNE_. + 1886. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +CHARLES P. MORITZ’S “Travels, chiefly on foot, through several parts of +England in 1782, described in Letters to a Friend,” were translated from +the German by a lady, and published in 1795. John Pinkerton included +them in the second volume of his Collection of Voyages and Travels. + +The writer of this account of England as it was about a hundred years +ago, and seven years before the French Revolution, was a young Prussian +clergyman, simply religious, calmly enthusiastic for the freer forms of +citizenship, which he found in England and contrasted with the military +system of Berlin. The touch of his times was upon him, with some of the +feeling that caused Frenchmen, after the first outbreak of the +Revolution, to hail Englishmen as “their forerunners in the glorious +race.” He had learnt English at home, and read Milton, whose name was +inscribed then in German literature on the banners of the free. + +In 1782 Charles Moritz came to England with little in his purse and +“Paradise Lost” in his pocket, which he meant to read in the Land of +Milton. He came ready to admire, and enthusiasm adds some colour to his +earliest impressions; but when they were coloured again by hard +experience, the quiet living sympathy remained. There is nothing small +in the young Pastor Moritz, we feel a noble nature in his true simplicity +of character. + +He stayed seven weeks with us, three of them in London. He travelled on +foot to Richmond, Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, and Matlock, with some +experience of a stage coach on the way back; and when, in dread of being +hurled from his perch on the top as the coach flew down hill, he tried a +safer berth among the luggage in the basket, he had further experience. +It was like that of Hood’s old lady, in the same place of inviting +shelter, who, when she crept out, had only breath enough left to murmur, +“Oh, them boxes!” + +Pastor Moritz’s experience of inns was such as he hardly could pick up in +these days of the free use of the feet. But in those days everybody who +was anybody rode. And even now, there might be cold welcome to a +shabby-looking pedestrian without a knapsack. Pastor Moritz had his +Milton in one pocket and his change of linen in the other. From some +inns he was turned away as a tramp, and in others he found cold comfort. +Yet he could be proud of a bit of practical wisdom drawn by himself out +of the “Vicar of Wakefield,” that taught him to conciliate the innkeeper +by drinking with him; and the more the innkeeper drank of the ale ordered +the better, because Pastor Moritz did not like it, and it did not like +him. He also felt experienced in the ways of the world when, having +taken example from the manners of a bar-maid, if he drank in a full room +he did not omit to say, “Your healths, gentlemen all.” + +Fielding’s Parson Adams, with his Æschylus in his pocket, and Parson +Moritz with his Milton, have points of likeness that bear strong witness +to Fielding’s power of entering into the spirit of a true and gentle +nature. After the first touches of enthusiastic sentiment, that +represent real freshness of enjoyment, there is no reaction to excess in +opposite extreme. The young foot traveller settles down to simple truth, +retains his faith in English character, and reports ill-usage without a +word of bitterness. + +The great charm of this book is its unconscious expression of the +writer’s character. His simple truthfulness presents to us of 1886 as +much of the England of 1782 as he was able to see with eyes full of +intelligence and a heart full of kindness. He heard Burke speak on the +death of his friend and patron Lord Rockingham, with sudden rebuke to an +indolent and inattentive house. He heard young Pitt, and saw how he +could fix, boy as he looked, every man’s attention. + + “Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us + To see oursels as others see us! + It wad frae many a blunder free us, + And foolish notion.” + +And when the power is so friendly as that of the Pastor Moritz, we may, +if wise, know ourselves better than from a thousand satires, but if +foolish we may let all run into self-praise. + + H. M. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + _On the Thames_, 31st _May_. + +AT length, my dearest Gedike, I find myself safely landed on the happy +shores of that country, a sight of which has, for many years, been my +most earnest wish; and whither I have so often in imagination transported +myself. A few hours ago the green hills of England yet swam imperfectly +before our eyes, scarcely perceptible in the distant horizon: they now +unfold themselves on either side, forming as it were a double +amphitheatre. The sun bursts through the clouds, and gilds alternately +the shrubs and meadows on the distant shores, and we now espy the tops of +two masts of ships just peeping above the surface of the deep. What an +awful warning to adventurous men! We now sail close by those very sands +(the Goodwin) where so many unfortunate persons have found their graves. + +The shores now regularly draw nearer to each other: the danger of the +voyage is over; and the season for enjoyment, unembittered by cares, +commences. How do we feel ourselves, we, who have long been wandering as +it were, in a boundless space, on having once more gained prospects that +are not without limits! I should imagine our sensations as somewhat like +those of the traveller who traverses the immeasurable deserts of America, +when fortunately he obtains a hut wherein to shelter himself; in those +moments he certainly enjoys himself; nor does he then complain of its +being too small. It is indeed the lot of man to be always circumscribed +to a narrow space, even when he wanders over the most extensive regions; +even when the huge sea envelops him all around, and wraps him close to +its bosom, in the act, as it were, of swallowing him up in a moment: +still he is separated from all the circumjacent immensity of space only +by one small part, or insignificant portion of that immensity. + +That portion of this space, which I now see surrounding me, is a most +delightful selection from the whole of beautiful nature. Here is the +Thames full of large and small ships and boats, dispersed here and there, +which are either sailing on with us, or lying at anchor; and there the +hills on either side, clad with so soft and mild a green, as I have +nowhere else ever seen equalled. The charming banks of the Elbe, which I +so lately quitted, are as much surpassed by these shores as autumn is by +spring! I see everywhere nothing but fertile and cultivated lands; and +those living hedges which in England more than in any other country, form +the boundaries of the green cornfields, and give to the whole of the +distant country the appearance of a large and majestic garden. The neat +villages and small towns with sundry intermediate country seats, suggest +ideas of prosperity and opulence which is not possible to describe. + +The prospect towards Gravesend is particularly beautiful. It is a clever +little town, built on the side of a hill; about which there lie hill and +dale and meadows, and arable land, intermixed with pleasure grounds and +country seats; all diversified in the most agreeable manner. On one of +the highest of these hills near Gravesend stands a windmill, which is a +very good object, as you see it at some distance, as well as part of the +country around it, on the windings of the Thames. But as few human +pleasures are ever complete and perfect, we too, amidst the pleasing +contemplation of all these beauties, found ourselves exposed on the +quarter-deck to uncommonly cold and piercing weather. An unintermitting +violent shower of rain has driven me into the cabin, where I am now +endeavouring to divert a gloomy hour by giving you the description of a +pleasing one. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + _London_, 2_nd_ _June_. + +THIS morning those of us who were fellow passengers together in the great +cabin, being six in number, requested to be set on shore in a boat, a +little before the vessel got to Dartford, which is still sixteen miles +from London. This expedient is generally adopted, instead of going up +the Thames, towards London, where on account of the astonishing number of +ships, which are always more crowded together the nearer you approach the +city, it frequently requires many days before a ship can finish her +passage. He therefore who wishes to lose no time unnecessarily, and +wishes also to avoid other inconveniences, such as frequent stoppages, +and perhaps, some alarming dashings against other ships, prefers +travelling those few miles by land in a post-chaise, which is not very +expensive, especially when three join together, as three passengers pay +no more than one. This indulgence is allowed by act of parliament. + +As we left the vessel we were honoured with a general huzza, or in the +English phrase with three cheers, echoed from the German sailors of our +ship. This nautical style of bidding their friends farewell our Germans +have learned from the English. The cliff where we landed was white and +chalky, and as the distance was not great, nor other means of conveyance +at hand, we resolved to go on foot to Dartford: immediately on landing we +had a pretty steep hill to climb, and that gained, we arrived at the +first English village, where an uncommon neatness in the structure of the +houses, which in general are built with red bricks and flat roofs, struck +me with a pleasing surprise, especially when I compared them with the +long, rambling, inconvenient, and singularly mean cottages of our +peasants. We now continued our way through the different villages, each +furnished with his staff, and thus exhibited no remote resemblance of a +caravan. Some few people who met us seemed to stare at us, struck, +perhaps, by the singularity of our dress, or the peculiarity of our +manner of travelling. On our route we passed a wood where a troop of +gipsies had taken up their abode around a fire under a tree. The +country, as we continued to advance, became more and more beautiful. +Naturally, perhaps, the earth is everywhere pretty much alike, but how +different is it rendered by art! How different is that on which I now +tread from ours, and every other spot I have ever seen. The soil is rich +even to exuberance, the verdure of the trees and hedges, in short the +whole of this paradisaical region is without a parallel! The roads too +are incomparable; I am astonished how they have got them so firm and +solid; every step I took I felt, and was conscious it was English ground +on which I trod. + +We breakfasted at Dartford. Here, for the first time, I saw an English +soldier, in his red uniform, his hair cut short and combed back on his +forehead, so as to afford a full view of his fine, broad, manly face. +Here too I first saw (what I deemed a true English fight) in the street, +two boys boxing. + +Our little party now separated, and got into two post-chaises, each of +which hold three persons, though it must be owned three cannot sit quite +so commodiously in these chaises as two: the hire of a post-chaise is a +shilling for every English mile. They may be compared to our extra +posts, because they are to be had at all times. But these carriages are +very neat and lightly built, so that you hardly perceive their motion as +they roll along these firm smooth roads; they have windows in front, and +on both sides. The horses are generally good, and the postillions +particularly smart and active, and always ride on a full trot. The one +we had wore his hair cut short, a round hat, and a brown jacket of +tolerable fine cloth, with a nosegay in his bosom. Now and then, when he +drove very hard, he looked round, and with a smile seemed to solicit our +approbation. A thousand charming spots, and beautiful landscapes, on +which my eye would long have dwelt with rapture, were now rapidly passed +with the speed of an arrow. + +Our road appeared to be undulatory, and our journey, like the journey of +life, seemed to be a pretty regular alternation of up hill and down, and +here and there it was diversified with copses and woods; the majestic +Thames every now and then, like a little forest of masts, rising to our +view, and anon losing itself among the delightful towns and villages. +The amazing large signs which at the entrance of villages hang in the +middle of the street, being fastened to large beams, which are extended +across the street from one house to another opposite to it, particularly +struck me; these sign-posts have the appearance of gates or of gateways, +for which I at first took them, but the whole apparatus, unnecessarily +large as it seems to be, is intended for nothing more than to tell the +inquisitive traveller that there is an inn. At length, stunned as it +were by this constant rapid succession of interesting objects to engage +our attention, we arrived at Greenwich nearly in a state of stupefaction. + + _The Prospect of London_. + +We first descried it enveloped in a thick smoke or fog. St. Paul’s arose +like some huge mountain above the enormous mass of smaller buildings. +The Monument, a very lofty column, erected in memory of the great fire of +London, exhibited to us, perhaps, chiefly on account of its immense +height, apparently so disproportioned to its other dimensions (for it +actually struck us as resembling rather a slender mast, towering up in +immeasurable height into the clouds, than as that it really is, a stately +obelisk) an unusual and singular appearance. Still we went on, and drew +nearer and nearer with amazing velocity, and the surrounding objects +became every moment more distinct. Westminster Abbey, the Tower, a +steeple, one church, and then another, presented themselves to our view; +and we could now plainly distinguish the high round chimneys on the tops +of the houses, which yet seemed to us to form an innumerable number of +smaller spires, or steeples. + +The road from Greenwich to London is actually busier and far more alive +than the most frequented streets in Berlin. At every step we met people +on horseback, in carriages, and foot passengers; and everywhere also, and +on each side of the road, well-built and noble houses, whilst all along, +at proper distances, the road was lined with lamp-posts. One thing, in +particular, struck and surprised me not a little. This was the number of +people we met riding and walking with spectacles on, among whom were many +who appeared stout, healthy, and young. We were stopped at least three +times at barriers or gates, here called turnpikes, to pay a duty or toll +which, however small, as being generally paid in their copper coinage, in +the end amounted to some shillings. + +At length we arrived at the magnificent bridge of Westminster. The +prospect from this bridge alone seems to afford one the epitome of a +journey, or a voyage in miniature, as containing something of everything +that mostly occurs on a journey. It is a little assemblage of contrasts +and contrarieties. In contrast to the round, modern, and majestic +cathedral of St. Paul’s on your right, the venerable, old-fashioned, and +hugely noble, long abbey of Westminster, with its enormous pointed roof, +rises on the left. Down the Thames to the right you see Blackfriar’s +Bridge, which does not yield much, if at all, in beauty to that of +Westminster; on the left bank of the Thames are delightful terraces, +planted with trees, and those new tasteful buildings called the Adelphi. +On the Thames itself are countless swarms of little boats passing and +repassing, many with one mast and one sail, and many with none, in which +persons of all ranks are carried over. Thus there is hardly less stir +and bustle on this river, than there is in some of its own London’s +crowded streets. Here, indeed, you no longer see great ships, for they +come no farther than London Bridge. + +We now drove into the city by Charing Cross, and along the Strand, to +those very Adelphi Buildings which had just afforded us so charming a +prospect on Westminster Bridge. + +My two travelling companions, both in the ship and the post-chaise, were +two young Englishmen, who living in this part of the town, obligingly +offered me any assistance and services in their power, and in particular, +to procure me a lodging the same day in their neighbourhood. + +In the streets through which we passed, I must own the houses in general +struck me as if they were dark and gloomy, and yet at the same time they +also struck me as prodigiously great and majestic. At that moment, I +could not in my own mind compare the external view of London with that of +any other city I had ever before seen. But I remember (and surely it is +singular) that about five years ago, on my first entrance into Leipzig, I +had the very same sensations I now felt. It is possible that the high +houses, by which the streets at Leipzig are partly darkened, the great +number of shops, and the crowd of people, such as till then I had never +seen, might have some faint resemblance with the scene now surrounding me +in London. + +There are everywhere leading from the Strand to the Thames, some +well-built, lesser, or subordinate streets, of which the Adelphi +Buildings are now by far the foremost. One district in this +neighbourhood goes by the name of York Buildings, and in this lies George +Street, where my two travelling companions lived. There reigns in those +smaller streets towards the Thames so pleasing a calm, compared to the +tumult and bustle of people, and carriages, and horses, that are +constantly going up and down the Strand, that in going into one of them +you can hardly help fancying yourself removed at a distance from the +noise of the city, even whilst the noisiest part of it is still so near +at hand. + +It might be about ten or eleven o’clock when we arrived here. After the +two Englishmen had first given me some breakfast at their lodgings, which +consisted of tea and bread and butter, they went about with me +themselves, in their own neighbourhood, in search of an apartment, which +they at length procured for me for sixteen shillings a week, at the house +of a tailor’s widow who lived opposite to them. It was very fortunate, +on other accounts, that they went with me, for equipped as I was, having +neither brought clean linen nor change of clothes from my trunk, I might +perhaps have found it difficult to obtain good lodgings. + +It was a very uncommon but pleasing sensation I experienced on being now, +for the first time in my life, entirely among Englishmen: among people +whose language was foreign, their manners foreign, and in a foreign +climate, with whom, notwithstanding, I could converse as familiarly as +though we had been educated together from our infancy. It is certainly +an inestimable advantage to understand the language of the country +through which you travel. I did not at first give the people I was with +any reason to suspect I could speak English, but I soon found that the +more I spoke, the more attention and regard I met with. I now occupy a +large room in front on the ground floor, which has a carpet and mats, and +is very neatly furnished; the chairs are covered with leather, and the +tables are of mahogany. Adjoining to this I have another large room. I +may do just as I please, and keep my own tea, coffee, bread and butter, +for which purpose my landlady has given me a cupboard in my room, which +locks up. + +The family consists of the mistress of the house, her maid, and her two +sons, Jacky and Jerry; singular abbreviations for John and Jeremiah. The +eldest, Jacky, about twelve years old, is a very lively boy, and often +entertains me in the most pleasing manner by relating to me his different +employments at school, and afterwards desiring me in my turn to relate to +him all manner of things about Germany. He repeats his _amo_, _amas_, +_amavi_, in the same singing tone as our common school-boys. As I +happened once when he was by, to hum a lively tune, he stared at me with +surprise, and then reminded me it was Sunday; and so, that I might not +forfeit his good opinion by any appearance of levity, I gave him to +understand that, in the hurry of my journey, I had forgotten the day. He +has already shown me St. James’s Park, which is not far from hence; and +now let me give you some description of the renowned + + _St. James’s Park_. + +The park is nothing more than a semicircle, formed of an alley of trees, +which enclose a large green area in the middle of which is a marshy pond. + +The cows feed on this green turf, and their milk is sold here on the +spot, quite new. + +In all the alleys or walks there are benches, where you may rest +yourself. When you come through the Horse Guards (which is provided with +several passages) into the park, on the right hand is St. James’s Palace, +or the king’s place of residence, one of the meanest public buildings in +London. At the lower end, quite at the extremity, is the queen’s palace, +a handsome and modern building, but very much resembling a private house. +As for the rest, there are generally everywhere about St. James’s Park +very good houses, which is a great addition to it. There is also before +the semicircle of the trees just mentioned a large vacant space, where +the soldiers are exercised. + +How little this famous park is to be compared with our park at Berlin, I +need not mention. And yet one cannot but form a high idea of St. James’s +Park and other public places in London; this arises, perhaps, from their +having been oftener mentioned in romances and other books than ours have. +Even the squares and streets of London are more noted and better known +than many of our principal towns. + +But what again greatly compensates for the mediocrity of this park, is +the astonishing number of people who, towards evening in fine weather, +resort here; our finest walks are never so full even in the midst of +summer. The exquisite pleasure of mixing freely with such a concourse of +people, who are for the most part well-dressed and handsome, I have +experienced this evening for the first time. + +Before I went to the park I took another walk with my little Jacky, which +did not cost me much fatigue and yet was most uncommonly interesting. I +went down the little street in which I live, to the Thames nearly at the +end of it, towards the left, a few steps led me to a singularly pretty +terrace, planted with trees, on the very brink of the river. + +Here I had the most delightful prospect you can possibly imagine. Before +me was the Thames with all its windings, and the stately arches of its +bridges; Westminster with its venerable abbey to the right, to the left +again London, with St. Paul’s, seemed to wind all along the windings of +the Thames, and on the other side of the water lay Southwark, which is +now also considered as part of London. Thus, from this single spot, I +could nearly at one view see the whole city, at least that side of it +towards the Thames. Not far from hence, in this charming quarter of the +town, lived the renowned Garrick. Depend upon it I shall often visit +this delightful walk during my stay in London. + +To-day my two Englishmen carried me to a neighbouring tavern, or rather +an eating-house, where we paid a shilling each for some roast meat and a +salad, giving at the same time nearly half as much to the waiter, and yet +this is reckoned a cheap house, and a cheap style of living. But I +believe, for the future, I shall pretty often dine at home; I have +already begun this evening with my supper. I am now sitting by the fire +in my own room in London. The day is nearly at an end, the first I have +spent in England, and I hardly know whether I ought to call it only one +day, when I reflect what a quick and varied succession of new and +striking ideas have, in so short a time, passed in my mind. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + _London_, 5_th_ _June_. + +AT length, dearest Gedike, I am again settled, as I have now got my trunk +and all my things from the ship, which arrived only yesterday. Not +wishing to have it taken to the Custom House, which occasions a great +deal of trouble, I was obliged to give a douceur to the officers, and +those who came on board the ship to search it. Having pacified, as I +thought, one of them with a couple of shillings, another came forward and +protested against the delivery of the trunk upon trust till I had given +him as much. To him succeeded a third, so that it cost me six shillings, +which I willingly paid, because it would have cost me still more at the +Custom House. + +By the side of the Thames were several porters, one of whom took my huge +heavy trunk on his shoulders with astonishing ease, and carried it till I +met a hackney coach. This I hired for two shillings, immediately put the +trunk into it, accompanying it myself without paying anything extra for +my own seat. This is a great advantage in the English hackney coaches, +that you are allowed to take with you whatever you please, for you thus +save at least one half of what you must pay to a porter, and besides go +with it yourself, and are better accommodated. The observations and the +expressions of the common people here have often struck me as peculiar. +They are generally laconic, but always much in earnest and significant. +When I came home, my landlady kindly recommended it to the coachman not +to ask more than was just, as I was a foreigner; to which he answered, +“Nay, if he were not a foreigner I should not overcharge him.” + +My letters of recommendation to a merchant here, which I could not bring +with me on account of my hasty departure from Hamburgh, are also arrived. +These have saved me a great deal of trouble in the changing of my money. +I can now take my German money back to Germany, and when I return thither +myself, refund to the correspondent of the merchant here the sum which he +here pays me in English money. I should otherwise have been obliged to +sell my Prussian Fredericks-d’or for what they weighed; for some few +Dutch dollars which I was obliged to part with before I got this credit +they only gave me eight shillings. + +A foreigner has here nothing to fear from being pressed as a sailor, +unless, indeed, he should be found at any suspicious place. A singular +invention for this purpose of pressing is a ship, which is placed on land +not far from the Tower, on Tower Hill, furnished with masts and all the +appurtenances of a ship. The persons attending this ship promise simple +country people, who happen to be standing and staring at it, to show it +to them for a trifle, and as soon as they are in, they are secured as in +a trap, and according to circumstances made sailors of or let go again. + +The footway, paved with large stones on both sides of the street, appears +to a foreigner exceedingly convenient and pleasant, as one may there walk +in perfect safety, in no more danger from the prodigious crowd of carts +and coaches, than if one was in one’s own room, for no wheel dares come a +finger’s breadth upon the curb stone. However, politeness requires you +to let a lady, or any one to whom you wish to show respect, pass, not, as +we do, always to the right, but on the side next the houses or the wall, +whether that happens to be on the right or on the left, being deemed the +safest and most convenient. You seldom see a person of any understanding +or common sense walk in the middle of the streets in London, excepting +when they cross over, which at Charing Cross and other places, where +several streets meet, is sometimes really dangerous. + +It has a strange appearance—especially in the Strand, where there is a +constant succession of shop after shop, and where, not unfrequently, +people of different trades inhabit the same house—to see their doors or +the tops of their windows, or boards expressly for the purpose, all +written over from top to bottom with large painted letters. Every +person, of every trade or occupation, who owns ever so small a portion of +a house, makes a parade with a sign at his door; and there is hardly a +cobbler whose name and profession may not be read in large golden +characters by every one that passes. It is here not at all uncommon to +see on doors in one continued succession, “Children educated here,” +“Shoes mended here,” “Foreign spirituous liquors sold here,” and +“Funerals furnished here;” of all these inscriptions. I am sorry to +observe that “Dealer in foreign spirituous liquors” is by far the most +frequent. And indeed it is allowed by the English themselves, that the +propensity of the common people to the drinking of brandy or gin is +carried to a great excess; and I own it struck me as a peculiar +phraseology, when, to tell you that a person is intoxicated or drunk, you +hear them say, as they generally do, that he is in liquor. In the late +riots, which even yet are hardly quite subsided, and which are still the +general topic of conversation, more people have been found dead near +empty brandy-casks in the streets, than were killed by the musket-balls +of regiments that were called in. As much as I have seen of London +within these two days, there are on the whole I think not very many fine +streets and very fine houses, but I met everywhere a far greater number +and handsomer people than one commonly meets in Berlin. It gives me much +real pleasure when I walk from Charing Cross up the Strand, past St. +Paul’s to the Royal Exchange, to meet in the thickest crowd persons from +the highest to the lowest ranks, almost all well-looking people, and +cleanly and neatly dressed. I rarely see even a fellow with a +wheel-barrow who has not a shirt on, and that, too, such a one as shows +it has been washed; nor even a beggar without both a shirt and shoes and +stockings. The English are certainly distinguished for cleanliness. + +It has a very uncommon appearance in this tumult of people, where every +one, with hasty and eager step, seems to be pursuing either his business +or his pleasure, and everywhere making his way through the crowd, to +observe, as you often may, people pushing one against another, only +perhaps to see a funeral pass. The English coffins are made very +economically, according to the exact form of the body; they are flat, and +broad at top; tapering gradually from the middle, and drawing to a point +at the feet, not very unlike the case of a violin. + +A few dirty-looking men, who bear the coffin, endeavour to make their way +through the crowd as well as they can; and some mourners follow. The +people seem to pay as little attention to such a procession, as if a +hay-cart were driving past. The funerals of people of distinction, and +of the great, are, however, differently regarded. + +These funerals always appear to me the more indecent in a populous city, +from the total indifference of the beholders, and the perfect unconcern +with which they are beheld. The body of a fellow-creature is carried to +his long home as though it had been utterly unconnected with the rest of +mankind. And yet, in a small town or village, everyone knows everyone; +and no one can be so insignificant as not to be missed when he is taken +away. + +That same influenza which I left at Berlin, I have had the hard fortune +again to find here; and many people die of it. It is as yet very cold +for the time of the year, and I am obliged every day to have a fire. I +must own that the heat or warmth given by sea-coal, burnt in the chimney, +appears to me softer and milder than that given by our stoves. The sight +of the fire has also a cheerful and pleasing effect. Only you must take +care not to look at it steadily, and for a continuance, for this is +probably the reason that there are so many young old men in England, who +walk and ride in the public streets with their spectacles on; thus +anticipating, in the bloom of youth, those conveniences and comforts +which were intended for old age. + +I now constantly dine in my own lodgings; and I cannot but flatter myself +that my meals are regulated with frugality. My usual dish at supper is +some pickled salmon, which you eat in the liquor in which it is pickled, +along with some oil and vinegar; and he must be prejudiced or fastidious +who does not relish it as singularly well tasted and grateful food. + +I would always advise those who wish to drink coffee in England, to +mention beforehand how many cups are to be made with half an ounce; or +else the people will probably bring them a prodigious quantity of brown +water; which (notwithstanding all my admonitions) I have not yet been +able wholly to avoid. The fine wheaten bread which I find here, besides +excellent butter and Cheshire-cheese, makes up for my scanty dinners. +For an English dinner, to such lodgers as I am, generally consists of a +piece of half-boiled, or half-roasted meat; and a few cabbage leaves +boiled in plain water; on which they pour a sauce made of flour and +butter. This, I assure you, is the usual method of dressing vegetables +in England. + +The slices of bread and butter, which they give you with your tea, are as +thin as poppy leaves. But there is another kind of bread and butter +usually eaten with tea, which is toasted by the fire, and is incomparably +good. You take one slice after the other and hold it to the fire on a +fork till the butter is melted, so that it penetrates a number of slices +at once: this is called toast. + +The custom of sleeping without a feather-bed for a covering particularly +pleased me. You here lie between two sheets: underneath the bottom sheet +is a fine blanket, which, without oppressing you, keeps you sufficiently +warm. My shoes are not cleaned in the house, but by a person in the +neighbourhood, whose trade it is; who fetches them every morning, and +brings them back cleaned; for which she receives weekly so much. When +the maid is displeased with me, I hear her sometimes at the door call me +“the German”; otherwise in the family I go by the name of “the +Gentleman.” + +I have almost entirely laid aside riding in a coach, although it does not +cost near so much as it does at Berlin; as I can go and return any +distance not exceeding an English mile for a shilling, for which I should +there at least pay a florin. But, moderate as English fares are, still +you save a great deal, if you walk or go on foot, and know only how to +ask your way. From my lodging to the Royal Exchange is about as far as +from one end of Berlin to the other, and from the Tower and St. +Catharine’s, where the ships arrive in the Thames, as far again; and I +have already walked this distance twice, when I went to look after my +trunk before I got it out of the ship. As it was quite dark when I came +back the first evening, I was astonished at the admirable manner in which +the streets are lighted up; compared to which our streets in Berlin make +a most miserable show. The lamps are lighted whilst it is still +daylight, and are so near each other, that even on the most ordinary and +common nights, the city has the appearance of a festive illumination, for +which some German prince, who came to London for the first time, once, +they say, actually took it, and seriously believed it to have been +particularly ordered on account of his arrival. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + _The_ 9_th_ _June_, 1782. + +I PREACHED this day at the German church on Ludgate Hill, for the Rev. +Mr. Wendeborn. He is the author of “Die statischen Beyträge zur nähern +Kentniss Grossbrittaniens.” This valuable book has already been of +uncommon service to me, and I cannot but recommend it to everyone who +goes to England. It is the more useful, as you can with ease carry it in +your pocket, and you find in it information on every subject. It is +natural to suppose that Mr. Wendeborn, who has now been a length of time +in England, must have been able more frequently, and with greater +exactness to make his observations, than those who only pass through, or +make a very short stay. It is almost impossible for anyone, who has this +book always at hand, to omit anything worthy of notice in or about +London; or not to learn all that is most material to know of the state +and situation of the kingdom in general. + +Mr. Wendeborn lives in New Inn, near Temple Bar, in a philosophical, but +not unimproving, retirement. He is almost become a native; and his +library consists chiefly of English books. Before I proceed, I must just +mention, that he has not hired, but bought his apartments in this great +building, called New Inn: and this, I believe, is pretty generally the +case with the lodgings in this place. A purchaser of any of these rooms +is considered as a proprietor; and one who has got a house and home, and +has a right, in parliamentary or other elections, to give his vote, if he +is not a foreigner, which is the case with Mr. Wendeborn, who, +nevertheless, was visited by Mr. Fox when he was to be chosen member for +Westminster. + +I saw, for the first time, at Mr. Wendeborn’s, a very useful machine, +which is little known in Germany, or at least not much used. + +This is a press in which, by means of very strong iron springs, a written +paper may be printed on another blank paper, and you thus save yourself +the trouble of copying; and at the same time multiply your own +handwriting. Mr. Wendeborn makes use of this machine every time he sends +manuscripts abroad, of which he wishes to keep a copy. This machine was +of mahogany, and cost pretty high. I suppose it is because the +inhabitants of London rise so late, that divine service begin only at +half-past ten o’clock. I missed Mr. Wendeborn this morning, and was +therefore obliged to enquire of the door-keeper at St. Paul’s for a +direction to the German church, where I was to preach. He did not know +it. I then asked at another church, not far from thence. Here I was +directed right, and after I had passed through an iron gate to the end of +a long passage, I arrived just in time at the church, where, after the +sermon, I was obliged to read a public thanksgiving for the safe arrival +of our ship. The German clergy here dress exactly the same as the +English clergy—_i.e._, in long robes with wide sleeves—in which I +likewise was obliged to wrap myself. Mr. Wendeborn wears his own hair, +which curls naturally, and the toupee is combed up. + +The other German clergymen whom I have seen wear wigs, as well as many of +the English. + +I yesterday waited on our ambassador, Count Lucy, and was agreeably +surprised at the simplicity of his manner of living. He lives in a small +private house. His secretary lives upstairs, where also I met with the +Prussian consul, who happened just then to be paying him a visit. Below, +on the right hand, I was immediately shown into his Excellency’s room, +without being obliged to pass through an antechamber. He wore a blue +coat, with a red collar and red facings. He conversed with me, as we +drank a dish of coffee, on various learned topics; and when I told him of +the great dispute now going on about the _tacismus_ or _stacismus_, he +declared himself, as a born Greek, for the _stacismus_. + +When I came to take my leave, he desired me to come and see him without +ceremony whenever it suited me, as he should be always happy to see me. + +Mr. Leonhard, who has translated several celebrated English plays, such +as “The School for Scandal,” and some others, lives here as a private +person, instructing Germans in English, and Englishmen in German, with +great ability. He also it is who writes the articles concerning England +for the new Hamburgh newspaper, for which he is paid a stated yearly +stipend. I may add also, that he is the master of a German Freemasons’ +lodge in London, and representative of all the German lodges in +England—an employment of far more trouble than profit to him, for all the +world applies to him in all cases and emergencies. I also was +recommended to him from Hamburgh. He is a very complaisant man, and has +already shown me many civilities. He repeats English poetry with great +propriety, and speaks the language nearly with the same facility as he +does his mother language. He is married to an amiable Englishwoman. I +wish him all possible happiness. And now let me tell you something of +the so often imitated, but perhaps inimitable + + _Vauxhall_. + +I yesterday visited Vauxhall for the first time. I had not far to go +from my lodgings, in the Adelphi Buildings, to Westminster Bridge, where +you always find a great number of boats on the Thames, which are ready on +the least signal to serve those who will pay them a shilling or sixpence, +or according to the distance. + +From hence I went up the Thames to Vauxhall, and as I passed along I saw +Lambeth; and the venerable old palace belonging to the archbishops of +Canterbury lying on my left. + +Vauxhall is, properly speaking, the name of a little village in which the +garden, now almost exclusively bearing the same name, is situated. You +pay a shilling entrance. + +On entering it, I really found, or fancied I found, some resemblance to +our Berlin Vauxhall, if, according to Virgil, I may be permitted to +compare small things with great ones. The walks at least, with the +paintings at the end, and the high trees, which, here and there form a +beautiful grove, or wood, on either side, were so similar to those of +Berlin, that often, as I walked along them, I seemed to transport myself, +in imagination, once more to Berlin, and forgot for a moment that immense +seas, and mountains, and kingdoms now lie between us. I was the more +tempted to indulge in this reverie as I actually met with several +gentlemen, inhabitants of Berlin, in particular Mr. S—r, and some others, +with whom I spent the evening in the most agreeable manner. Here and +there (particularly in one of the charming woods which art has formed in +this garden) you are pleasingly surprised by the sudden appearance of the +statues of the most renowned English poets and philosophers, such as +Milton, Thomson, and others. But, what gave me most pleasure was the +statue of the German composer Handel, which, on entering the garden, is +not far distant from the orchestra. + +This orchestra is among a number of trees situated as in a little wood, +and is an exceedingly handsome one. As you enter the garden, you +immediately hear the sound of vocal and instrumental music. There are +several female singers constantly hired here to sing in public. + +On each side of the orchestra are small boxes, with tables and benches, +in which you sup. The walks before these, as well as in every other part +of the garden, are crowded with people of all ranks. I supped here with +Mr. S—r, and the secretary of the Prussian ambassador, besides a few +other gentlemen from Berlin; but what most astonished me was the boldness +of the women of the town, who often rushed in upon us by half dozens, and +in the most shameless manner importuned us for wine, for themselves and +their followers. Our gentlemen thought it either unwise, unkind, or +unsafe, to refuse them so small a boon altogether. + +Latish in the evening we were entertained with a sight, that is indeed +singularly curious and interesting. In a particular part of the garden a +curtain was drawn up, and by means of some mechanism of extraordinary +ingenuity, the eye and the ear are so completely deceived, that it is not +easy to persuade one’s self it is a deception, and that one does not +actually see and hear a natural waterfall from a high rock. As everyone +was flocking to this scene in crowds, there arose all at once a loud cry +of “Take care of your pockets.” This informed us, but too clearly, that +there were some pickpockets among the crowd, who had already made some +fortunate strokes. + +The rotunda, a magnificent circular building in the garden, particularly +engaged my attention. By means of beautiful chandeliers, and large +mirrors, it was illuminated in the most superb manner; and everywhere +decorated with delightful paintings, and statues, in the contemplation of +which you may spend several hours very agreeably, when you are tired of +the crowd and the bustle, in the walks of the garden. + +Among the paintings one represents the surrender of a besieged city. If +you look at this painting with attention, for any length of time, it +affects you so much that you even shed tears. The expression of the +greatest distress, even bordering on despair, on the part of the +besieged, the fearful expectation of the uncertain issue, and what the +victor will determine concerning those unfortunate people, may all be +read so plainly, and so naturally in the countenances of the inhabitants, +who are imploring for mercy, from the hoary head to the suckling whom his +mother holds up, that you quite forget yourself, and in the end scarcely +believe it to be a painting before you. + +You also here find the busts of the best English authors, placed all +round on the sides. Thus a Briton again meets with his Shakespeare, +Locke, Milton, and Dryden in the public places of his amusements; and +there also reveres their memory. Even the common people thus become +familiar with the names of those who have done honour to their nation; +and are taught to mention them with veneration. For this rotunda is also +an orchestra in which the music is performed in rainy weather. But +enough of Vauxhall! + +Certain it is that the English classical authors are read more generally, +beyond all comparison, than the German; which in general are read only by +the learned; or, at most, by the middle class of people. The English +national authors are in all hands, and read by all people, of which the +innumerable editions they have gone through are a sufficient proof. + +My landlady, who is only a tailor’s widow, reads her Milton; and tells +me, that her late husband first fell in love with her on this very +account: because she read Milton with such proper emphasis. This single +instance, perhaps, would prove but little; but I have conversed with +several people of the lower class, who all knew their national authors, +and who all have read many, if not all, of them. This elevates the lower +ranks, and brings them nearer to the higher. There is hardly any +argument or dispute in conversation, in the higher ranks, about which the +lower cannot also converse or give their opinion. Now, in Germany, since +Gellert, there has as yet been no poet’s name familiar to the people. +But the quick sale of the classical authors is here promoted also by +cheap and convenient editions. They have them all bound in pocket +volumes, as well as in a more pompous style. I myself bought Milton in +duodecimo for two shillings, neatly bound; it is such a one as I can, +with great convenience, carry in my pocket. It also appears to me to be +a good fashion, which prevails here, and here only, that the books which +are most read, are always to be had already well and neatly bound. At +stalls, and in the streets, you every now and then meet with a sort of +antiquarians, who sell single or odd volumes; sometimes perhaps of +Shakespeare, etc., so low as a penny; nay, even sometimes for a halfpenny +a piece. Of one of these itinerant antiquarians I bought the two volumes +of the Vicar of Wakefield for sixpence, _i.e._ for the half of an English +shilling. In what estimation our German literature is held in England, I +was enabled to judge, in some degree, by the printed proposals of a book +which I saw. The title was, “The Entertaining Museum, or Complete +Circulating Library,” which is to contain a list of all the English +classical authors, as well as translations of the best French, Spanish, +Italian, and even German novels. + +The moderate price of this book deserves also to be noticed; as by such +means books in England come more within the reach of the people; and of +course are more generally distributed among them. The advertisement +mentions that in order that everyone may have it in his power to buy this +work, and at once to furnish himself with a very valuable library, +without perceiving the expense, a number will be sent out weekly, which, +stitched, costs sixpence, and bound with the title on the back, +ninepence. The twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth numbers contain the first +and second volume of the Vicar of Wakefield, which I had just bought of +the antiquarian above-mentioned. + +The only translation from the German which has been particularly +successful in England, is Gesner’s “Death of Abel.” The translation of +that work has been oftener reprinted in England than ever the original +was in Germany. I have actually seen the eighteenth edition of it; and +if the English preface is to be regarded, it was written by a lady. +“Klopstock’s Messiah,” as is well known, has been here but ill received; +to be sure, they say it is but indifferently translated. I have not yet +been able to obtain a sight of it. The Rev. Mr. Wendeborn has written a +grammar for the German language in English, for the use of Englishmen, +which has met with much applause. + +I must not forget to mention, that the works of Mr. Jacob Boehmen are all +translated into English. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + _London_, 13_th_ _June_. + +OFTEN as I had heard Ranelagh spoken of, I had yet formed only an +imperfect idea of it. I supposed it to be a garden somewhat different +from that of Vauxhall; but, in fact, I hardly knew what I thought of it. +Yesterday evening I took a walk in order to visit this famous place of +amusement; but I missed my way and got to Chelsea; where I met a man with +a wheel-barrow, who not only very civilly showed me the right road, but +also conversed with me the whole of the distance which we walked +together. And finding, upon enquiry, that I was a subject of the King of +Prussia, he desired me, with much eagerness, to relate to him some +anecdotes concerning that mighty monarch. At length I arrived at +Ranelagh; and having paid my half-crown on entrance, I soon enquired for +the garden door, and it was readily shown to me; when, to my infinite +astonishment, I found myself in a poor, mean-looking, and ill-lighted +garden, where I met but few people. I had not been here long before I +was accosted by a young lady, who also was walking there, and who, +without ceremony, offered me her arm, asking me why I walked thus +solitarily? I now concluded, this could not possibly be the splendid, +much-boasted Ranelagh; and so, seeing not far from me a number of people +entering a door, I followed them, in hopes either to get out again, or to +vary the scene. + +But it is impossible to describe, or indeed to conceive, the effect it +had on me, when, coming out of the gloom of the garden, I suddenly +entered a round building, illuminated by many hundred lamps; the +splendour and beauty of which surpassed everything of the kind I had ever +seen before. Everything seemed here to be round; above, there was a +gallery divided into boxes; and in one part of it an organ with a +beautiful choir, from which issued both instrumental and vocal music. +All around, under this gallery, are handsome painted boxes for those who +wish to take refreshments: the floor was covered with mats, in the middle +of which are four high black pillars; within which there are neat +fire-places for preparing tea, coffee and punch; and all around, also, +there are placed tables, set out with all kinds of refreshments. Within +these four pillars, in a kind of magic rotundo, all the beau-monde of +London move perpetually round and round. + +I at first mixed with this immense concourse of people, of all sexes, +ages, countries, and characters; and I must confess, that the incessant +change of faces, the far greater number of which were strikingly +beautiful, together with the illumination, the extent and majestic +splendour of the place, with the continued sound of the music, makes an +inconceivably delightful impression on the imagination; and I take the +liberty to add, that, on seeing it now for the first time, I felt pretty +nearly the same sensations that I remember to have felt when, in early +youth, I first read the Fairy Tales. + +Being, however, at length tired of the crowd, and being tired also with +always moving round and round in a circle, I sat myself down in one of +the boxes, in order to take some refreshment, and was now contemplating +at my ease this prodigious collection and crowd of a happy, cheerful +world, who were here enjoying themselves devoid of care, when a waiter +very civilly asked me what refreshments I wished to have, and in a few +moments returned with what I asked for. To my astonishment he would +accept no money for these refreshments; which I could not comprehend, +till he told me that everything was included in the half-crown I had paid +at the door; and that I had only to command if I wished for anything +more; but that if I pleased, I might give him as a present a trifling +douceur. This I gave him with pleasure, as I could not help fancying I +was hardly entitled to so much civility and good attention for one single +half-crown. + +I now went up into the gallery, and seated myself in one of the boxes +there; and from thence becoming all at once a grave and moralising +spectator, I looked down on the concourse of people who were still moving +round and round in the fairy circle; and then I could easily distinguish +several stars and other orders of knighthood; French queues and bags +contrasted with plain English heads of hair, or professional wigs; old +age and youth, nobility and commonalty, all passing each other in the +motley swarm. An Englishman who joined me during this my reverie, +pointed out to me on my enquiring, princes and lords with their dazzling +stars; with which they eclipsed the less brilliant part of the company. + +Here some moved round in an eternal circle to see and be seen; there a +group of eager connoisseurs had placed themselves before the orchestra +and were feasting their ears, while others at the well-supplied tables +were regaling the parched roofs of their mouths in a more substantial +manner, and again others, like myself, were sitting alone, in the corner +of a box in the gallery, making their remarks and reflections on so +interesting a scene. + +I now and then indulged myself in the pleasure of exchanging, for some +minutes, all this magnificence and splendour for the gloom of the garden, +in order to renew the pleasing surprise I experienced on my first +entering the building. Thus I spent here some hours in the night in a +continual variation of entertainment; when the crowd now all at once +began to lessen, and I also took a coach and drove home. + +At Ranelagh the company appeared to me much better, and more select than +at Vauxhall; for those of the lower class who go there, always dress +themselves in their best, and thus endeavour to copy the great. Here I +saw no one who had not silk stockings on. Even the poorest families are +at the expense of a coach to go to Ranelagh, as my landlady assured me. +She always fixed on some one day in the year, on which, without fail, she +drove to Ranelagh. On the whole the expense at Ranelagh is nothing near +so great as it is at Vauxhall, if you consider the refreshments; for any +one who sups at Vauxhall, which most people do, is likely, for a very +moderate supper, to pay at least half-a-guinea. + + _The Parliament_. + +I had almost forgotten to tell you that I have already been to the +Parliament House; and yet this is of most importance. For, had I seen +nothing else in England but this, I should have thought my journey +thither amply rewarded. + +As little as I have hitherto troubled myself with politics, because +indeed with us it is but little worth our while, I was however desirous +of being present at a meeting of parliament—a wish that was soon amply +gratified. + +One afternoon, about three o’clock, at which hour, or thereabouts, the +house most commonly meets, I enquired for Westminster Hall, and was very +politely directed by an Englishman. These directions are always given +with the utmost kindness. You may ask whom you please, if you can only +make yourself tolerably well understood; and by thus asking every now and +then, you may with the greatest ease find your way throughout all London. + +Westminster Hall is an enormous Gothic building, whose vaulted roof is +supported, not by pillars, but instead of these there are, on each side, +large unnatural heads of angels, carved in wood, which seem to support +the roof. + +When you have passed through this long hall, you ascend a few steps at +the end, and are led through a dark passage into the House of Commons, +which, below, has a large double-door; and above, there is a small +staircase, by which you go to the gallery, the place allotted for +strangers. + +The first time I went up this small staircase, and had reached the rails, +I saw a very genteel man in black standing there. I accosted him without +any introduction, and I asked him whether I might be allowed to go into +the gallery. He told me that I must be introduced by a member, or else I +could not get admission there. Now, as I had not the honour to be +acquainted with a member, I was under the mortifying necessity of +retreating, and again going down-stairs, as I did much chagrined. And +now, as I was sullenly marching back, I heard something said about a +bottle of wine, which seemed to be addressed to me. + +I could not conceive what it could mean, till I got home, when my +obliging landlady told me I should have given the well-dressed man +half-a-crown, or a couple of shillings for a bottle of wine. Happy in +this information, I went again the next day; when the same man who before +had sent me away, after I had given him only two shillings, very politely +opened the door for me, and himself recommended me to a good seat in the +gallery. + +And thus I now, for the first time, saw the whole of the British nation +assembled in its representatives, in rather a mean-looking building, that +not a little resembles a chapel. The Speaker, an elderly man, with an +enormous wig, with two knotted kind of tresses, or curls, behind, in a +black cloak, his hat on his head, sat opposite to me on a lofty chair; +which was not unlike a small pulpit, save only that in the front of there +was no reading-desk. Before the Speaker’s chair stands a table, which +looks like an altar; and at this there sit two men, called clerks, +dressed in black, with black cloaks. On the table, by the side of the +great parchment acts, lies a huge gilt sceptre, which is always taken +away, and placed in a conservatory under the table, as soon as ever the +Speaker quits the chair; which he does as often as the House resolves +itself into a committee. A committee means nothing more than that the +House puts itself into a situation freely to discuss and debate any point +of difficulty and moment, and, while it lasts, the Speaker partly lays +aside his power as a legislator. As soon as this is over, some one tells +the Speaker that he may now again be seated; and immediately on the +Speaker being again in the chair, the sceptre is also replaced on the +table before him. + +All round on the sides of the house, under the gallery, are benches for +the members, covered with green cloth, always one above the other, like +our choirs in churches, in order that he who is speaking may see over +those who sit before him. The seats in the gallery are on the same plan. +The members of parliament keep their hats on, but the spectators in the +gallery are uncovered. + +The members of the House of Commons have nothing particular in their +dress. They even come into the House in their great coats, and with +boots and spurs. It is not at all uncommon to see a member lying +stretched out on one of the benches while others are debating. Some +crack nuts, others eat oranges, or whatever else is in season. There is +no end to their going in and out; and as often as any one wishes to go +out, he places himself before the Speaker, and makes him his bow, as if, +like a schoolboy, he asked tutor’s permission. + +Those who speak seem to deliver themselves with but little, perhaps not +always with even a decorous, gravity. All that is necessary is to stand +up in your place, take off your hat, turn to the Speaker (to whom all the +speeches are addressed), to hold your hat and stick in one hand, and with +the other to make any such motions as you fancy necessary to accompany +your speech. + +If it happens that a member rises who is but a bad speaker, or if what he +says is generally deemed not sufficiently interesting, so much noise is +made, and such bursts of laughter are raised, that the member who is +speaking can scarcely distinguish his own words. This must needs be a +distressing situation; and it seems then to be particularly laughable, +when the Speaker in his chair, like a tutor in a school, again and again +endeavours to restore order, which he does by calling out “_To order_, +_to order_,” apparently often without much attention being paid to it. + +On the contrary, when a favourite member, and one who speaks well and to +the purpose, rises, the most perfect silence reigns, and his friends and +admirers, one after another, make their approbation known by calling out, +“_Hear him_,” which is often repeated by the whole House at once; and in +this way so much noise is often made that the speaker is frequently +interrupted by this same emphatic “_Hear him_.” Notwithstanding which, +this calling out is always regarded as a great encouragement; and I have +often observed that one who began with some diffidence, and even somewhat +inauspiciously, has in the end been so animated that he has spoken with a +torrent of eloquence. + +As all speeches are directed to the Speaker, all the members always +preface their speeches with “_Sir_” and he, on being thus addressed, +generally moves his hat a little, but immediately puts it on again. This +“_Sir_” is often introduced in the course of their speeches, and serves +to connect what is said. It seems also to stand the orator in some stead +when any one’s memory fails him, or he is otherwise at a loss for matter. +For while he is saying “_Sir_,” and has thus obtained a little pause, he +recollects what is to follow. Yet I have sometimes seen some members +draw a kind of memorandum-book out of their pockets, like a candidate who +is at a loss in his sermon. This is the only instance in which a member +of the British parliament seems to read his speeches. + +The first day that I was at the House of Commons an English gentleman who +sat next to me in the gallery very obligingly pointed out to me the +principal members, such as Fox, Burke, Rigby, etc., all of whom I heard +speak. The debate happened to be whether, besides being made a peer, any +other specific reward should be bestowed by the nation on their gallant +admiral Rodney. In the course of the debate, I remember, Mr. Fox was +very sharply reprimanded by young Lord Fielding for having, when +minister, opposed the election of Admiral Hood as a member for +Westminster. + +Fox was sitting to the right of the Speaker, not far from the table on +which the gilt sceptre lay. He now took his place so near it that he +could reach it with his hand, and, thus placed, he gave it many a violent +and hearty thump, either to aid, or to show the energy with which he +spoke. If the charge was vehement, his defence was no less so. He +justified himself against Lord Fielding by maintaining that he had not +opposed this election in the character of a minister, but as an +individual, or private person; and that, as such, he had freely and +honestly given his vote for another—namely, for Sir Cecil Wray, adding +that the King, when he appointed him Secretary of State, had entered into +no agreement with him by which he lost his vote as an individual; to such +a requisition he never would have submitted. It is impossible for me to +describe with what fire and persuasive eloquence he spoke, and how the +Speaker in the chair incessantly nodded approbation from beneath his +solemn wig, and innumerable voices incessantly called out, “Hear him! +hear him!” and when there was the least sign that he intended to leave +off speaking they no less vociferously exclaimed, “Go on;” and so he +continued to speak in this manner for nearly two hours. Mr. Rigby, in +reply, made a short but humorous speech, in which he mentioned of how +little consequence the title of “lord” and “lady” was without money to +support it, and finished with the Latin proverb, “infelix paupertas—quia +ridiculos miseros facit.” After having first very judiciously observed +that previous inquiry should be made whether Admiral Rodney had made any +rich prizes or captures; because, if that should be the case, he would +not stand in need of further reward in money. I have since been almost +every day at the parliament house, and prefer the entertainment I there +meet with to most other amusements. + +Fox is still much beloved by the people, notwithstanding that they are +(and certainly with good reason) displeased at his being the cause of +Admiral Rodney’s recall, though even I have heard him again and again +almost extravagant in his encomiums on this noble admiral. The same +celebrated Charles Fox is a short, fat, and gross man, with a swarthy +complexion, and dark; and in general he is badly dressed. There +certainly is something Jewish in his looks. But upon the whole, he is +not an ill-made nor an ill-looking man, and there are many strong marks +of sagacity and fire in his eyes. I have frequently heard the people +here say that this same Mr. Fox is as cunning as a fox. Burke is a +well-made, tall, upright man, but looks elderly and broken. Rigby is +excessively corpulent, and has a jolly rubicund face. + +The little less than downright open abuse, and the many really rude +things which the members said to each other, struck me much. For +example, when one has finished, another rises, and immediately taxes with +absurdity all that the right honourable gentleman (for with this title +the members of the House of Commons always honour each other) had just +advanced. It would, indeed, be contrary to the rules of the House flatly +to tell each other that what they have spoken is _false_, or even +_foolish_. Instead of this, they turn themselves, as usual, to the +Speaker, and so, whilst their address is directed to him, they fancy they +violate neither the rules of parliament nor those of good breeding and +decorum, whilst they utter the most cutting personal sarcasms against the +member or the measure they oppose. + +It is quite laughable to see, as one sometimes does, one member speaking, +and another accompanying the speech with his action. This I remarked +more than once in a worthy old citizen, who was fearful of speaking +himself, but when his neighbour spoke he accompanied every energetic +sentence with a suitable gesticulation, by which means his whole body was +sometimes in motion. + +It often happens that the jett, or principal point in the debate is lost +in these personal contests and bickerings between each other. When they +last so long as to become quite tedious and tiresome, and likely to do +harm rather than good, the House takes upon itself to express its +disapprobation; and then there arises a general cry of, “The question! +the question!” This must sometimes be frequently repeated, as the +contending members are both anxious to have the last word. At length, +however, the question is put, and the votes taken, when the Speaker says, +“Those who are for the question are to say _aye_, and those who are +against it _no_.” You then hear a confused cry of “_aye_” and “_no_” but +at length the Speaker says, “I think there are more _ayes_ than _noes_, +or more _noes_ than _ayes_. The _ayes_ have it; or the _noes_ have it,” +as the case may be. But all the spectators must then retire from the +gallery; for then, and not till then, the voting really commences. And +now the members call aloud to the gallery, “Withdraw! withdraw!” On this +the strangers withdraw, and are shut up in a small room at the foot of +the stairs till the voting is over, when they are again permitted to take +their places in the gallery. Here I could not help wondering at the +impatience even of polished Englishmen. It is astonishing with what +violence, and even rudeness, they push and jostle one another as soon as +the room door is again opened, eager to gain the first and best seats in +the gallery. In this manner we (the strangers) have sometimes been sent +away two or three times in the course of one day, or rather evening, +afterwards again permitted to return. Among these spectators are people +of all ranks, and even, not unfrequently, ladies. Two shorthand writers +have sat sometimes not far distant from me, who (though it is rather by +stealth) endeavour to take down the words of the speaker; and thus all +that is very remarkable in what is said in parliament may generally be +read in print the next day. The shorthand writers, whom I noticed, are +supposed to be employed and paid by the editors of the different +newspapers. There are, it seems, some few persons who are constant +attendants on the parliament; and so they pay the door-keeper beforehand +a guinea for a whole session. I have now and then seen some of the +members bring their sons, whilst quite little boys, and carry them to +their seats along with themselves. + +A proposal was once made to erect a gallery in the House of Peers also +for the accommodation of spectators. But this never was carried into +effect. There appears to be much more politeness and more courteous +behaviour in the members of the upper House. But he who wishes to +observe mankind, and to contemplate the leading traits of the different +characters most strongly marked, will do well to attend frequently the +lower, rather than the other, House. + +Last Tuesday was (what is here called) hanging-day. There was also a +parliamentary election. I could only see one of the two sights, and +therefore naturally preferred the latter, while I only heard tolling at a +distance the death-bell of the sacrifice to justice. I now, therefore, +am going to describe to you, as well as can, an + + _Election for a Member of Parliament_. + +The cities of London and Westminster send, the one four, and the other +two, members to parliament. Mr. Fox is one of the two members for +Westminster. One seat was vacant, and that vacancy was now to be filled. +And the same Sir Cecil Wray, whom Fox had before opposed to Lord Hood, +was now publicly chosen. They tell me that at these elections, when +there is a strong opposition party, there is often bloody work; but this +election was, in the electioneering phrase, a “hollow thing”—_i.e._ quite +sure, as those who had voted for Admiral Hood now withdrew, without +standing a poll, as being convinced beforehand their chance to succeed +was desperate. + +The election was held in Covent Garden, a large market-place in the open +air. There was a scaffold erected just before the door of a very +handsome church, which is also called St. Paul’s, but which, however, is +not to be compared to the cathedral. + +A temporary edifice, formed only of boards and wood nailed together, was +erected on the occasion. It was called the hustings, and filled with +benches; and at one end of it, where the benches ended, mats were laid, +on which those who spoke to the people stood. In the area before the +hustings immense multitudes of people were assembled, of whom the +greatest part seemed to be of the lowest order. To this tumultuous +crowd, however, the speakers often bowed very low, and always addressed +them by the title of “gentlemen.” Sir Cecil Wray was obliged to step +forward and promise these same gentlemen, with hand and heart, that he +would faithfully fulfil his duties as their representative. He also made +an apology because, on account of his long journey and ill-health, he had +not been able to wait on them, as became him, at their respective houses. +The moment that he began to speak, even this rude rabble became all as +quiet as the raging sea after a storm, only every now and then rending +the air with the parliamentary cry of “Hear him! hear him!” and as soon +as he had done speaking, they again vociferated aloud an universal +“_huzza_,” every one at the same time waving his hat. + +And now, being formally declared to have been legally chosen, he again +bowed most profoundly, and returned thanks for the great honour done him, +when a well-dressed man, whose name I could not learn, stepped forward, +and in a well-indited speech congratulated both the chosen and the +choosers. “Upon my word,” said a gruff carter who stood near me, “that +man speaks well.” + +Even little boys clambered up and hung on the rails and on the +lamp-posts; and as if the speeches had also been addressed to them, they +too listened with the utmost attention, and they too testified their +approbation of it by joining lustily in the three cheers and waving their +hats. + +All the enthusiasm of my earliest years kindled by the patriotism of the +illustrious heroes of Rome. Coriolanus, Julius Cæsar, and Antony were +now revived in my mind; and though all I had just seen and heard be, in +fact, but the semblance of liberty, and that, too, tribunitial liberty, +yet at that moment I thought it charming, and it warmed my heart. Yes, +depend on it, my friend, when you here see how, in the happy country, the +lowest and meanest member of society thus unequivocally testifies the +interest which he takes in everything of a public nature; when you see +how even women and children bear a part in the great concerns of their +country; in short, how high and low, rich and poor, all concur in +declaring their feelings and their convictions that a carter, a common +tar, or a scavenger, is still a man—nay, an Englishman, and as such has +his rights and privileges defined and known as exactly and as well as his +king, or as his king’s minister—take my word for it, you will feel +yourself very differently affected from what you are when staring at our +soldiers in their exercises at Berlin. + +When Fox, who was among the voters, arrived at the beginning of the +election, he too was received with an universal shout of joy. At length, +when it was nearly over, the people took it into their heads to hear him +speak, and every one called out, “Fox! Fox!” I know not why, but I +seemed to catch some of the spirit of the place and time, and so I also +bawled “Fox! Fox!” and he was obliged to come forward and speak, for no +other reason that I could find but that the people wished to hear him +speak. In this speech he again confirmed, in the presence of the people, +his former declaration in parliament, that he by no means had any +influence as minister of State in this election, but only and merely as a +private person. + +When the whole was over, the rampant spirit of liberty and the wild +impatience of a genuine English mob were exhibited in perfection. In a +very few minutes the whole scaffolding, benches, and chairs, and +everything else, was completely destroyed, and the mat with which it had +been covered torn into ten thousand long strips, or pieces, or strings, +with which they encircled or enclosed multitudes of people of all ranks. +These they hurried along with them, and everything else that came in +their way, as trophies of joy; and thus, in the midst of exultation and +triumph, they paraded through many of the most populous streets of +London. + +Whilst in Prussia poets only speak of the love of country as one of the +dearest of all human affections, here there is no man who does not feel, +and describe with rapture, how much he loves his country. “Yes, for my +country I’ll shed the last drop of my blood!” often exclaims little +Jacky, the fine boy here in the house where I live, who is yet only about +twelve years old. The love of their country, and its unparalleled feats +in war are, in general, the subject of their ballads and popular songs, +which are sung about the streets by women, who sell them for a few +farthings. It was only the other day our Jacky brought one home, in +which the history of an admiral was celebrated who bravely continued to +command, even after his two legs were shot off and he was obliged to be +supported. I know not well by what means it has happened that the King +of England, who is certainly one of the best the nation ever had, is +become unpopular. I know not how many times I have heard people of all +sorts object to their king at the same time that they praised the King of +Prussia to the skies. Indeed, with some the veneration for our monarch +went so far that they seriously wished he was their king. All that seems +to shock and dishearten them is the prodigious armies he keeps up, and +the immense number of soldiers quartered in Berlin alone. Whereas in +London, at least in the city, not a single troop of soldiers of the +King’s guard dare make their appearance. + +A few days ago I saw what is here deemed a great sight—viz., a lord +mayor’s procession. The lord mayor was in an enormous large gilt coach, +which was followed by an astonishing number of most showy carriages, in +which the rest of the city magistrates, more properly called aldermen of +London, were seated. But enough for the present. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + _London_, _June_ 17_th_, 1782. + +I HAVE now been pretty nearly all over London, and, according to my own +notions, have now seen most of the things I was most anxious to see. +Hereafter, then, I propose to make an excursion into the country; and +this purpose, by the blessing of God, I hope to be able to carry into +effect in a very few days, for my curiosity is here almost satiated. I +seem to be tired and sick of the smoke of these sea-coal fires, and I +long, with almost childish impatience, once more to breathe a fresher and +clearer air. + +It must, I think, be owned, that upon the whole, London is neither so +handsomely nor so well built as Berlin is; but then it certainly has far +more fine squares. Of these there are many that in real magnificence and +beautiful symmetry far surpass our Gens d’Armes Markt, our Denhoschen and +William’s Place. The squares or quadrangular places contain the best and +most beautiful buildings of London; a spacious street, next to the +houses, goes all round them, and within that there is generally a round +grass-plot, railed in with iron rails, in the centre of which, in many of +them, there is a statue, which statues most commonly are equestrian and +gilt. In Grosvenor Square, instead of this green plot or area, there is +a little circular wood, intended, no doubt, to give one the idea of _rus +in urbe_. + +One of the longest and pleasantest walks I have yet taken is from +Paddington to Islington; where to the left you have a fine prospect of +the neighbouring hills, and in particular of the village of Hampstead, +which is built on one of them; and to the right the streets of London +furnish an endless variety of interesting views. It is true that it is +dangerous to walk here alone, especially in the afternoon and in an +evening, or at night, for it was only last week that a man was robbed and +murdered on this very same road. But I now hasten to another and a more +pleasing topic: + + _The British Museum_. + +I have had the happiness to become acquainted with the Rev. Mr. Woide; +who, though well known all over Europe to be one of the most learned men +of the age, is yet, if possible, less estimable for his learning than he +is for his unaffected goodness of heart. He holds a respectable office +in the museum, and was obliging enough to procure me permission to see +it, luckily the day before it was shut up. In general you must give in +your name a fortnight before you can he admitted. But after all, I am +sorry to say, it was the rooms, the glass cases, the shelves, or the +repository for the books in the British Museum which I saw, and not the +museum itself, we were hurried on so rapidly through the apartments. The +company, who saw it when and as I did, was various, and some of all +sorts; some, I believe, of the very lowest classes of the people, of both +sexes; for, as it is the property of the nation, every one has the same +right (I use the term of the country) to see it that another has. I had +Mr. Wendeborn’s book in my pocket, and it, at least, enabled me to take a +somewhat more particular notice of some of the principal things; such as +the Egyptian mummy, a head of Homer, &c. The rest of the company, +observing that I had some assistance which they had not, soon gathered +round me; I pointed out to them as we went along, from Mr. Wendeborn’s +German book, what there was most worth seeing here. The gentleman who +conducted us took little pains to conceal the contempt which he felt for +my communications when he found out that it was only a German description +of the British Museum I had got. The rapidly passing through this vast +suite of rooms, in a space of time little, if at all, exceeding an hour, +with leisure just to cast one poor longing look of astonishment on all +these stupendous treasures of natural curiosities, antiquities, and +literature, in the contemplation of which you could with pleasure spend +years, and a whole life might be employed in the study of them—quite +confuses, stuns, and overpowers one. In some branches this collection is +said to be far surpassed by some others; but taken altogether, and for +size, it certainly is equalled by none. The few foreign divines who +travel through England generally desire to have the Alexandrian +manuscript shewn them, in order to be convinced with their own eyes +whether the passage, “These are the three that bear record, &c.,” is to +be found there or not. + +The Rev. Mr. Woide lives at a place called Lisson Street, not far from +Paddington; a very village-looking little town, at the west end of +London. It is quite a rural and pleasant situation; for here I either +do, or fancy I do, already breathe a purer and freer air than in the +midst of the town. Of his great abilities, and particularly in oriental +literature, I need not inform you; but it will give you pleasure to hear +that he is actually meditating a fac-simile edition of the Alexandrian +MS. I have already mentioned the infinite obligations I lie under to +this excellent man for his extraordinary courtesy and kindness. + + _The Theatre in the Haymarket_. + +Last week I went twice to an English play-house. The first time “The +Nabob” was represented, of which the late Mr. Foote was the author, and +for the entertainment, a very pleasing and laughable musical farce, +called “The Agreeable Surprise.” The second time I saw “The English +Merchant:” which piece has been translated into German, and is known +among us by the title of “The Scotchwoman,” or “The Coffee-house.” I +have not yet seen the theatres of Covent Garden and Drury Lane, because +they are not open in summer. The best actors also usually spend May and +October in the country, and only perform in winter. + +A very few excepted, the comedians whom I saw were certainly nothing +extraordinary. For a seat in the boxes you pay five shillings, in the +pit three, in the first gallery two, and in the second or upper gallery, +one shilling. And it is the tenants in this upper gallery who, for their +shilling, make all that noise and uproar for which the English +play-houses are so famous. I was in the pit, which gradually rises, +amphitheatre-wise, from the orchestra, and is furnished with benches, one +above another, from the top to the bottom. Often and often, whilst I sat +there, did a rotten orange, or pieces of the peel of an orange, fly past +me, or past some of my neighbours, and once one of them actually hit my +hat, without my daring to look round, for fear another might then hit me +on my face. + +All over London as one walks, one everywhere, in the season, sees oranges +to sell; and they are in general sold tolerably cheap, one and even +sometimes two for a halfpenny; or, in our money, threepence. At the +play-house, however, they charged me sixpence for one orange, and that +noways remarkably good. + +Besides this perpetual pelting from the gallery, which renders an English +play-house so uncomfortable, there is no end to their calling out and +knocking with their sticks till the curtain is drawn up. I saw a +miller’s, or a baker’s boy, thus, like a huge booby, leaning over the +rails and knocking again and again on the outside, with all his might, so +that he was seen by everybody, without being in the least ashamed or +abashed. I sometimes heard, too, the people in the lower or middle +gallery quarrelling with those of the upper one. Behind me, in the pit, +sat a young fop, who, in order to display his costly stone buckles with +the utmost brilliancy, continually put his foot on my bench, and even +sometimes upon my coat, which I could avoid only by sparing him as much +space from my portion of the seat as would make him a footstool. In the +boxes, quite in a corner, sat several servants, who were said to be +placed there to keep the seats for the families they served till they +should arrive; they seemed to sit remarkably close and still, the reason +of which, I was told, was their apprehension of being pelted; for if one +of them dares but to look out of the box, he is immediately saluted with +a shower of orange peel from the gallery. + +In Foote’s “Nabob” there are sundry local and personal satires which are +entirely lost to a foreigner. The character of the Nabob was performed +by a Mr. Palmer. The jett of the character is, this Nabob, with many +affected airs and constant aims at gentility, is still but a silly +fellow, unexpectedly come into the possession of immense riches, and +therefore, of course, paid much court to by a society of natural +philosophers, Quakers, and I do not know who besides. Being tempted to +become one of their members, he is elected, and in order to ridicule +these would-be philosophers, but real knaves, a fine flowery fustian +speech is put into his mouth, which he delivers with prodigious pomp and +importance, and is listened to by the philosophers with infinite +complacency. The two scenes of the Quakers and philosophers, who, with +countenances full of imaginary importance, were seated at a green table +with their president at their head while the secretary, with the utmost +care, was making an inventory of the ridiculous presents of the Nabob, +were truly laughable. One of the last scenes was best received: it is +that in which the Nabob’s friend and school-fellow visit him, and address +him without ceremony by his Christian name; but to all their questions of +“Whether he does not recollect them? Whether he does not remember such +and such a play; or such and such a scrape into which they had fallen in +their youth?” he uniformly answers with a look of ineffable contempt, +only, “No sir!” Nothing can possibly be more ludicrous, nor more comic. + +The entertainment, “The Agreeable Surprise,” is really a very diverting +farce. I observed that, in England also, they represent school-masters +in ridiculous characters on the stage, which, though I am sorry for, I +own I do not wonder at, as the pedantry of school-masters in England, +they tell me, is carried at least as far as it is elsewhere. The same +person who, in the play, performed the school-fellow of the Nabob with a +great deal of nature and original humour, here acted the part of the +school-master: his name is Edwin, and he is, without doubt, one of the +best actors of all that I have seen. + +This school-master is in love with a certain country girl, whose name is +Cowslip, to whom he makes a declaration of his passion in a strange +mythological, grammatical style and manner, and to whom, among other +fooleries, he sings, quite enraptured, the following air, and seems to +work himself at least up to such a transport of passion as quite +overpowers him. He begins, you will observe, with the conjugation, and +ends with the declensions and the genders; the whole is inimitably droll: + + “Amo, amas, + I love a lass, + She is so sweet and tender, + It is sweet Cowslip’s Grace + In the Nominative Case. + And in the feminine Gender.” + +Those two sentences in particular, “in the Nominative Case,” and “in the +feminine Gender,” he affects to sing in a particularly languishing air, +as if confident that it was irresistible. This Edwin, in all his comic +characters, still preserves something so inexpressibly good-tempered in +his countenance, that notwithstanding all his burlesques and even +grotesque buffoonery, you cannot but be pleased with him. I own, I felt +myself doubly interested for every character which he represented. +Nothing could equal the tone and countenance of self-satisfaction with +which he answered one who asked him whether he was a scholar? “Why, I +was a master of scholars.” A Mrs. Webb represented a cheesemonger, and +played the part of a woman of the lower class so naturally as I have +nowhere else ever seen equalled. Her huge, fat, and lusty carcase, and +the whole of her external appearance seemed quite to be cut out for it. + +Poor Edwin was obliged, as school-master, to sing himself almost hoarse, +as he sometimes was called on to repeat his declension and conjugation +songs two or three times, only because it pleased the upper gallery, or +“the gods,” as the English call them, to roar out “encore.” Add to all +this, he was farther forced to thank them with a low bow for the great +honour done him by their applause. + +One of the highest comic touches in the piece seemed to me to consist in +a lie, which always became more and more enormous in the mouths of those +who told it again, during the whole of the piece. This kept the audience +in almost a continual fit of laughter. This farce is not yet printed, or +I really think I should be tempted to venture to make a translation, or +rather an imitation of it. + +“The English Merchant, or the Scotchwoman,” I have seen much better +performed abroad than it was here. Mr. Fleck, at Hamburg, in particular, +played the part of the English merchant with more interest, truth, and +propriety than one Aickin did here. He seemed to me to fail totally in +expressing the peculiar and original character of Freeport; instead of +which, by his measured step and deliberate, affected manner of speaking, +he converted him into a mere fine gentleman. + +The trusty old servant who wishes to give up his life for his master he, +too, had the stately walk, or strut, of a minister. The character of the +newspaper writer was performed by the same Mr. Palmer who acted the part +of the Nabob, but every one said, what I thought, that he made him far +too much of a gentleman. His person, and his dress also, were too +handsome for the character. + +The character of Amelia was performed by an actress, who made her first +appearance on the stage, and from a timidity natural on such an occasion, +and not unbecoming, spoke rather low, so that she could not everywhere be +heard; “Speak louder! speak louder!” cried out some rude fellow from the +upper-gallery, and she immediately, with infinite condescension, did all +she could, and not unsuccessfully, to please even an upper gallery +critic. + +The persons near me, in the pit, were often extravagantly lavish of their +applause. They sometimes clapped a single solitary sentiment, that was +almost as unmeaning as it was short, if it happened to be pronounced only +with some little emphasis, or to contain some little point, some popular +doctrine, a singularly pathetic stroke, or turn of wit. + +“The Agreeable Surprise” was repeated, and I saw it a second time with +unabated pleasure. It is become a favourite piece, and always announced +with the addition of the favourite musical farce. The theatre appeared +to me somewhat larger than the one at Hamburg, and the house was both +times very full. Thus much for English plays, play-houses, and players. + + _English Customs and Education_. + +A few words more respecting pedantry. I have seen the regulation of one +seminary of learning, here called an academy. Of these places of +education, there is a prodigious number in London, though, +notwithstanding their pompous names, they are in reality nothing more +than small schools set up by private persons, for children and young +people. + +One of the Englishmen who were my travelling companions, made me +acquainted with a Dr. G— who lives near P—, and keeps an academy for the +education of twelve young people, which number is here, as well as at our +Mr. Kumpe’s, never exceeded, and the same plan has been adopted and +followed by many others, both here and elsewhere. + +At the entrance I perceived over the door of the house a large board, and +written on it, Dr. G—’s Academy. Dr. G— received me with great courtesy +as a foreigner, and shewed me his school-room, which was furnished just +in the same manner as the classes in our public schools are, with benches +and a professor’s chair or pulpit. + +The usher at Dr. G—’s is a young clergyman, who, seated also in a chair +or desk, instructs the boys in the Greek and Latin grammars. + +Such an under-teacher is called an usher, and by what I can learn, is +commonly a tormented being, exactly answering the exquisite description +given of him in the “Vicar of Wakefield.” We went in during the hours of +attendance, and he was just hearing the boys decline their Latin, which +he did in the old jog-trot way; and I own it had an odd sound to my ears, +when instead of pronouncing, for example _viri veeree_ I heard them say +_viri_, _of the man_, exactly according to the English pronunciation, and +_viro_, _to the man_. The case was just the same afterwards with the +Greek. + +Mr. G— invited us to dinner, when I became acquainted with his wife, a +very genteel young woman, whose behaviour to the children was such that +she might be said to contribute more to their education than any one +else. The children drank nothing but water. For every boarder Dr. G— +receives yearly no more than thirty pounds sterling, which however, he +complained of as being too little. From forty to fifty pounds is the +most that is generally paid in these academies. + +I told him of our improvements in the manner of education, and also spoke +to him of the apparent great worth of character of his usher. He +listened very attentively, but seemed to have thought little himself on +this subject. Before and after dinner the Lord’s Prayer was repeated in +French, which is done in several places, as if they were eager not to +waste without some improvement, even this opportunity also, to practise +the French, and thus at once accomplish two points. I afterwards told +him my opinion of this species of prayer, which however, he did not take +amiss. + +After dinner the boys had leave to play in a very small yard, which in +most schools or academies, in the city of London, is the _ne plus ultra_ +of their playground in their hours of recreation. But Mr. G— has another +garden at the end of the town, where he sometimes takes them to walk. + +After dinner Mr. G— himself instructed the children in writing, +arithmetic, and French, all which seemed to be well taught here, +especially writing, in which the young people in England far surpass, I +believe, all others. This may perhaps be owing to their having occasion +to learn only one sort of letters. As the midsummer holidays were now +approaching (at which time the children in all the academies go home for +four weeks), everyone was obliged with the utmost care to copy a written +model, in order to show it to their parents, because this article is most +particularly examined, as everybody can tell what is or is not good +writing. The boys knew all the rules of syntax by heart. + +All these academies are in general called boarding-schools. Some few +retain the old name of schools only, though it is possible that in real +merit they may excel the so much-boasted of academies. + +It is in general the clergy, who have small incomes, who set up these +schools both in town and country, and grown up people who are foreigners, +are also admitted here to learn the English language. Mr. G— charged for +board, lodging, and instruction in the English, two guineas a-week. He +however, who is desirous of perfecting himself in the English, will do +better to go some distance into the country, and board himself with any +clergyman who takes scholars, where he will hear nothing but English +spoken, and may at every opportunity be taught both by young and old. + +There are in England, besides the two universities, but few great schools +or colleges. In London, there are only St. Paul’s and Westminster +schools; the rest are almost all private institutions, in which there +reigns a kind of family education, which is certainly the most natural, +if properly conducted. Some few grammar schools, or Latin schools, are +notwithstanding here and there to be met with, where the master receives +a fixed salary, besides the ordinary profits of the school paid by the +scholars. + +You see in the streets of London, great and little boys running about in +long blue coats, which, like robes, reach quite down to the feet, and +little white bands, such as the clergy wear. These belong to a +charitable institution, or school, which hears the name of the Blue Coat +School. The singing of the choristers in the streets, so usual with us, +is not at all customary here. Indeed, there is in England, or at least +in London, such a constant walking, riding, and driving up and down in +the streets, that it would not be very practicable. Parents here in +general, nay even those of the lowest classes, seem to be kind and +indulgent to their children, and do not, like our common people, break +their spirits too much by blows and sharp language. Children should +certainly be inured early to set a proper value on themselves; whereas +with us, parents of the lower class bring up their children to the same +slavery under which they themselves groan. + +Notwithstanding the constant new appetites and calls of fashion, they +here remain faithful to nature—till a certain age. What a contrast, when +I figure to myself our petted, pale-faced Berlin boys, at six years old, +with a large bag, and all the parade of grown-up persons, nay even with +laced coats; and here, on the contrary see nothing but fine, ruddy, slim, +active boys, with their bosoms open, and their hair cut on their +forehead, whilst behind it flows naturally in ringlets. It is something +uncommon here to meet a young man, and more especially a boy, with a pale +or sallow face, with deformed features, or disproportioned limbs. With +us, alas! it is not to be concealed, the case is very much otherwise; if +it were not, handsome people would hardly strike us so very much as they +do in this country. + +This free, loose, and natural dress is worn till they are eighteen, or +even till they are twenty. It is then, indeed, discontinued by the +higher ranks, but with the common people it always remains the same. +They then begin to have their hair dressed, and curled with irons, to +give the head a large bushy appearance, and half their backs are covered +with powder. I am obliged to remain still longer under the hands of an +English, than I was under a German hair-dresser; and to sweat under his +hot irons with which he curls my hair all over, in order that I may +appear among Englishmen, somewhat English. I must here observe that the +English hair-dressers are also barbers, an office however, which they +perform very badly indeed; though I cannot but consider shaving as a far +more proper employment for these petit maîtres than it is for surgeons, +who you know in our country are obliged to shave us. It is incredible +how much the English at present Frenchify themselves; the only things yet +wanting are bags and swords, with which at least I have seen no one +walking publicly, but I am told they are worn at court. + +In the morning it is usual to walk out in a sort of negligée or morning +dress, your hair not dressed, but merely rolled up in rollers, and in a +frock and boots. In Westminster, the morning lasts till four or five +o’clock, at which time they dine, and supper and going to bed are +regulated accordingly. They generally do not breakfast till ten o’clock. +The farther you go from the court into the city, the more regular and +domestic the people become; and there they generally dine about three +o’clock, _i.e._ as soon as the business or ‘Change is over. + +Trimmed suits are not yet worn, and the most usual dress is in summer, a +short white waistcoat, black breeches, white silk stockings, and a frock, +generally of very dark blue cloth, which looks like black; and the +English seem in general to prefer dark colours. If you wish to be full +dressed, you wear black. Officers rarely wear their uniforms, but dress +like other people, and are to be known to be officers only by a cockade +in their hats. + +It is a common observation, that the more solicitous any people are about +dress, the more effeminate they are. I attribute it entirely to this +idle adventitious passion for finery, that these people are become so +over and above careful of their persons; they are for ever, and on every +occasion, putting one another on their guard against catching cold; +“you’ll certainly catch cold,” they always tell you if you happen to be a +little exposed to the draught of the air, or if you be not clad, as they +think, sufficiently warm. The general topic of conversation in summer, +is on the important objects of whether such and such an acquaintance be +in town, or such a one in the country. Far from blaming it, I think it +natural and commendable, that nearly one half of the inhabitants of this +great city migrate into the country in summer. And into the country, I +too, though not a Londoner, hope soon to wander. + +Electricity happens at present to be the puppet-show of the English. +Whoever at all understands electricity is sure of being noticed and +successful. This a certain Mr. Katterfelto experiences, who gives +himself out for a Prussian, speaks bad English, and understands beside +the usual electrical and philosophical experiments, some legerdemain +tricks, with which (at least according to the papers) he sets the whole +world in wonder. For in almost every newspaper that appears, there are +some verses on the great Katterfelto, which some one or other of his +hearers are said to have made extempore. Every sensible person considers +Katterfelto as a puppy, an ignoramus, a braggadocio, and an impostor; +notwithstanding which he has a number of followers. He has demonstrated +to the people, that the influenza is occasioned by a small kind of +insect, which poisons the air; and a nostrum, which he pretends to have +found out to prevent or destroy it, is eagerly bought of him. A few days +ago he put into the papers: “It is true that Mr. Katterfelto has always +wished for cold and rainy weather, in order to destroy the pernicious +insects in the air; but now, on the contrary, he wishes for nothing more +than for fair weather, as his majesty and the whole royal family have +determined, the first fine day, to be eye-witnesses of the great wonder, +which this learned philosopher will render visible to them.” Yet all +this while the royal family have not so much as even thought of seeing +the wonders of Mr. Katterfelto. This kind of rhodomontade is very finely +expressed in English by the word puff, which in its literal sense, +signifies a blowing, or violent gust of wind, and in the metaphorical +sense, a boasting or bragging. + +Of such puffs the English newspapers are daily full, particularly of +quack medicines and empirics, by means of which many a one here (and +among others a German who goes by the name of the German doctor) are +become rich. An advertisement of a lottery in the papers begins with +capitals in this manner,—“Ten Thousand Pounds for a Sixpence! Yes, +however astonishing it may seem, it is nevertheless undoubtedly true, +that for the small stake of sixpence, ten thousand pounds, and other +capital prizes, may be won, etc.”—But enough for this time of the puffs +of the English. + +I yesterday dined with the Rev. Mr. Schrader, son-in-law to Professor +Foster of Halle. He is chaplain to the German chapel at St. James’s; but +besides himself he has a colleague or a reader, who is also in orders, +but has only fifty pounds yearly salary. Mr. Schrader also instructs the +younger princes and princesses of the royal family in their religion. At +his house I saw the two chaplains, Mr. Lindeman and Mr. Kritter, who went +with the Hanoverian troops to Minorca, and who were returned with the +garrison. They were exposed to every danger along with the troops. The +German clergy, as well as every other person in any public station +immediately under Government, are obliged to pay a considerable tax out +of their salaries. + +The English clergy (and I fear those still more particularly who live in +London) are noticeable, and lamentably conspicuous, by a very free, +secular, and irregular way of life. Since my residence in England, one +has fought a duel in Hyde Park, and shot his antagonist. He was tried +for the offence, and it was evident the judge thought him guilty of +murder; but the jury declared him guilty only of manslaughter; and on +this verdict he was burnt in the hand, if that may be called burning +which is done with a cold iron; this being a privilege which the nobility +and clergy enjoy above other murderers. + +Yesterday week, after I had preached for Mr. Wendeborne, we passed an +English church in which, we understood the sermon was not yet quite +finished. On this we went in, and then I heard a young man preaching, +with a tolerable good voice, and a proper delivery; but, like the English +in general, his manner was unimpassioned, and his tone monotonous. From +the church we went to a coffee-house opposite to it, and there we dined. +We had not been long there before the same clergyman whom we had just +heard preaching, also came in. He called for pen and ink, and hastily +wrote down a few pages on a long sheet of paper, which he put into his +pocket; I suppose it was some rough sketch or memorandum that occurred to +him at that moment, and which he thus reserved for some future sermon. +He too ordered some dinner, which he had no sooner ate, than he returned +immediately to the same church. We followed him, and he again mounted +the pulpit, where he drew from his pocket a written paper, or book of +notes, and delivered in all probability those very words which he had +just before composed in our presence at the coffee-house. + +In these coffee-houses, however, there generally prevails a very decorous +stillness and silence. Everyone speaks softly to those only who sit next +him. The greater part read the newspapers, and no one ever disturbs +another. The room is commonly on the ground floor, and you enter it +immediately from the street; the seats are divided by wooden wainscot +partitions. Many letters and projects are here written and planned, and +many of those that you find in the papers are dated from some of these +coffee-houses. There is, therefore, nothing incredible, nor very +extraordinary, in a person’s composing a sermon here, excepting that one +would imagine it might have been done better at home, and certainly +should not have thus been put off to the last minute. + +Another long walk that I have taken pretty often, is through Hanover +Square and Cavendish Square, to Bulstrode Street, near Paddington, where +the Danish ambassador lives, and where I have often visited the Danish +_Charge d’Affaires_, M. Schornborn. He is well known in Germany, as +having attempted to translate Pindar into German. Besides this, and +besides being known to be a man of genius, he is known to be a great +proficient in most of the branches of natural philosophy. I have spent +many very pleasant hours with him. + +Sublime poetry, and in particular odes, are his forte; there are indeed +few departments of learning in which he has not extensive knowledge, and +he is also well read in the Greek and Roman authors. Everything he +studies, he studies merely from the love he bears to the science itself, +and by no means for the love of fame. + +One could hardly help saying it is a pity that so excellent a man should +be so little known, were it not generally the case with men of +transcendent merit. But what makes him still more valuable is his pure +and open soul, and his amiable unaffected simplicity of character, which +has gained him the love and confidence of all who know him. He has +heretofore been secretary to the ambassador at Algiers; and even here in +London, when he is not occupied by the business arising from his public +station, he lives exceedingly retired, and devotes his time almost +entirely to the study of the sciences. The more agreeable I find such an +acquaintance, the harder it will be for me to lose, as I soon must, his +learned, his instructive, and his friendly conversation. + +I have seen the large Freemasons’ Hall here, at the tavern of the same +name. This hall is of an astonishing height and breadth, and to me it +looked almost like a church. The orchestra is very much raised, and from +that you have a fine view of the whole hall, which makes a majestic +appearance. The building is said to have cost an immense sum. But to +that the lodges in Germany also contributed. Freemasonry seems to be +held in but little estimation in England, perhaps because most of the +lodges are now degenerated into mere drinking clubs; though I hope there +still are some who assemble for nobler and more essential purposes. The +Duke of Cumberland is now grand master. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + _London_, 20_th_ _June_, 1782. + +AT length my determination of going into the country takes effect; and I +am to set off this very afternoon in a stage; so that I now write to you +my last letter from London, I mean till I return from my pilgrimage, for +as soon as ever I have got beyond the dangerous neighbourhood of London, +I shall certainly no longer suffer myself to be cooped up in a +post-coach, but take my staff and pursue my journey on foot. In the +meantime, however, I will relate to you what I may either have forgotten +to write before, or what I have seen worth notice within these few days +last past; among which the foremost is + + _St. Paul’s_. + +I must own that on my entrance into this massy building, an uncommon +vacancy, which seemed to reign in it, rather damped than raised an +impression of anything majestic in me. All around me I could see nothing +but immense bare walls and pillars. Above me, at an astonishing height, +was the vaulted stone roof; and beneath me a plain, flat even floor, +paved with marble. No altar was to be seen, or any other sign that this +was a place where mankind assembled to adore the Almighty. For the +church itself, or properly that part of it where they perform divine +service, seems as it were a piece stuck on or added to the main edifice, +and is separated from the large round empty space by an iron gate, or +door. Did the great architects who adopted this style of building mean +by this to say that such a temple is most proper for the adoration of the +Almighty? If this was their aim, I can only say I admire the great +temple of nature, the azure vaulted sky, and the green carpet with which +the earth is spread. This is truly a large temple; but then there is in +it no void, no spot unappropriated, or unfulfilled, but everywhere proofs +in abundance of the presence of the Almighty. If, however, mankind, in +their honest ambition to worship the great God of nature, in a style not +wholly unsuitable to the great object of their reverence, and in their +humble efforts at magnificence, aim in some degree to rival the +magnificence of nature, particular pains should be taken to hit on +something that might atone for the unavoidable loss of the animation and +ampleness of nature; something in short that should clearly indicate the +true and appropriated design and purpose of such a building. If, on the +other hand, I could be contented to consider St. Paul’s merely as a work +of art, built as if merely to show the amazing extent of human powers, I +should certainly gaze at it with admiration and astonishment, but then I +wish rather to contemplate it with awe and veneration. But, I perceive, +I am wandering out of my way. St. Paul’s is here, as it is, a noble +pile, and not unworthy of this great nation. And even if I were sure +that I could, you would hardly thank me for showing you how it might have +been still more worthy of this intelligent people. I make a conscience +however of telling you always, with fidelity, what impression everything +I see or hear makes on me at the time. For a small sum of money I was +conducted all over the church by a man whose office it seemed to be, and +he repeated to me, I dare say, exactly his lesson, which no doubt he has +perfectly got by rote: of how many feet long and broad it was; how many +years it was in building, and in what year built. Much of this rigmarole +story, which, like a parrot, he repeated mechanically, I could willingly +have dispensed with. In the part that was separated from the rest by the +iron gate above mentioned, was what I call the church itself; furnished +with benches, pews, pulpit, and an altar; and on each side seats for the +choristers, as there are in our cathedrals. This church seemed to have +been built purposely in such a way, that the bishop, or dean, or +dignitary, who should preach there, might not be obliged to strain his +voice too much. I was now conducted to that part which is called the +whispering gallery, which is a circumference of prodigious extent, just +below the cupola. Here I was directed to place myself in a part of it +directly opposite to my conductor, on the other side of the gallery, so +that we had the whole breadth of the church between us, and here as I +stood, he, knowing his cue no doubt, flung to the door with all his +force, which gave a sound that I could compare to nothing less than a +peal of thunder. I was next desired to apply my ear to the wall, which, +when I did, I heard the words of my conductor: “Can you hear me?” which +he softly whispered quite on the other side, as plain and as loud as one +commonly speaks to a deaf person. This scheme to condense and invigorate +sound at so great a distance is really wonderful. I once noticed some +sound of the same sort in the senatorial cellar at Bremen; but neither +that, nor I believe any other in the world, can pretend to come in +competition with this. + +I now ascended several steps to the great gallery, which runs on the +outside of the great dome, and here I remained nearly two hours, as I +could hardly, in less time, satisfy myself with the prospect of the +various interesting objects that lay all round me, and which can no where +be better seen, than from hence. + +Every view, and every object I studied attentively, by viewing them again +and again on every side, for I was anxious to make a lasting impression +of it on my imagination. + +Below me lay steeples, houses, and palaces in countless numbers; the +squares with their grass plots in their middle that lay agreeably +dispersed and intermixed, with all the huge clusters of buildings, +forming meanwhile a pleasing contrast, and a relief to the jaded eye. + +At one end rose the Tower—itself a city—with a wood of masts behind it; +and at the other Westminster Abbey with its steeples. There I beheld, +clad in smiles, those beautiful green hills that skirt the environs of +Paddington and Islington; here, on the opposite bank of the Thames, lay +Southwark; the city itself it seems to be impossible for any eye to take +in entirely, for with all my pains I found it impossible to ascertain +either where it ended, or where the circumjacent villages began; far as +the eye could reach, it seemed to be all one continued chain of +buildings. + +I well remember how large I thought Berlin when first I saw it from the +steeple of St. Mary, and from the Temple Yard Hills, but how did it now +sink and fall in my imagination, when I compared it with London! + +It is, however, idle and vain to attempt giving you in words, any +description, however faint and imperfect, of such a prospect as I have +just been viewing. He who wishes at one view to see a world in +miniature, must come to the dome of St Paul’s. + +The roof of St. Paul’s itself with its two lesser steeples lay below me, +and as I fancied, looked something like the background of a small ridge +of hills, which you look down upon when you have attained the summit of +some huge rock or mountain. I should gladly have remained here sometime +longer, but a gust of wind, which in this situation was so powerful that +it was hardly possible to withstand it, drove me down. + +Notwithstanding that St. Paul’s is itself very high, the elevation of the +ground on which it stands contributes greatly to its elevation. + +The church of St. Peter at Berlin, notwithstanding the total difference +between them in the style of building, appears in some respects to have a +great resemblance to St. Paul’s in London. At least its large high black +roof rises above the other surrounding buildings just as St. Paul’s does. + +What else I saw in this stately cathedral was only a wooden model of this +very edifice, which was made before the church was built, and which +suggests some not unpleasing reflections when one compares it with the +enormous building itself. + +The churchyard is enclosed with an iron rail, and it appears a +considerable distance if you go all round. + +Owing to some cause or other, the site of St. Paul’s strikes you as being +confined, and it is certain that this beautiful church is on every side +closely surrounded by houses. + +A marble statue of Queen Anne in an enclosed piece of ground in the west +front of the church is something of an ornament to that side. + +The size of the bell of St. Paul’s is also worthy of notice, as it is +reckoned one of those that are deemed the largest in Europe. It takes +its place, they say, next to that at Vienna. + +Everything that I saw in St. Paul’s cost me only a little more than a +shilling, which I paid in pence and halfpence, according to a regulated +price, fixed for every different curiosity. + + _Westminster Abbey_. + +On a very gloomy dismal day, just such a one as it ought to be, I went to +see Westminster Abbey. + +I entered at a small door, which brought me immediately to the poets’ +corner, where the monuments and busts of the principal poets, artists, +generals, and great men, are placed. + +Not far from the door, immediately on my entrance, I perceived the statue +of Shakespeare, as large as life; with a band, &c., in the dress usual in +his time. + +A passage out of one of Shakespeare’s own plays (the _Tempest_), in which +he describes in the most solemn and affecting manner, the end, or the +dissolution of all things, is here, with great propriety, put up as his +epitaph; as though none but Shakespeare could do justice to Shakespeare. + +Not far from this immortal bard is Rowe’s monument, which, as it is +intimated in the few lines that are inscribed as his epitaph, he himself +had desired to be placed there. + +At no great distance I saw the bust of that amiable writer, Goldsmith: to +whom, as well as to Butler, whose monument is in a distant part of the +abbey, though they had scarcely necessary bread to eat during their life +time, handsome monuments are now raised. Here, too you see, almost in a +row, the monuments of Milton, Dryden, Gay, and Thomson. The inscription +on Gay’s tombstone is, if not actually immoral, yet futile and weak; +though he is said to have written it himself: + + “Life is a jest, and all things shew it, + ‘I thought so once but now I know it.” + +Our Handel has also a monument here, where he is represented as large as +life. + +An actress, Pritchard, and Booth, an actor, have also very distinguished +monuments erected here to their memories. + +For Newton, as was proper, there is a very costly one. It is above, at +the entrance of the choir, and exactly opposite to this, at the end of +the church, another is erected, which refers you to the former. + +As I passed along the side walls of Westminster Abbey, I hardly saw any +thing but marble monuments of great admirals, but which were all too much +loaded with finery and ornaments, to make on me at least, the intended +impression. + +I always returned with most pleasure to the poets’ corner, where the most +sensible, most able, and most learned men, of the different ages, were +re-assembled; and particularly where the elegant simplicity of the +monuments made an elevated and affecting impression on the mind, while a +perfect recollection of some favourite passage, of a Shakespeare, or +Milton, recurred to my idea, and seemed for a moment to re-animate and +bring back the spirits of those truly great men. + +Of Addison and Pope I have found no monuments here. The vaults where the +kings are buried, and some other things worth notice in the abbey, I have +not yet seen; but perhaps I may at my return to London from the country. + +I have made every necessary preparation for this journey: In the first +place, I have an accurate map of England in my pocket; besides an +excellent book of the roads, which Mr. Pointer, the English merchant to +whom I am recommended, has lent me. The title is “A new and accurate +description of all the direct and principal cross roads in Great +Britain.” This book, I hope, will be of great service to me in my +ramblings. + +I was for a long time undecided which way I should go, whether to the +Isle of Wight, to Portsmouth, or to Derbyshire, which is famous for its +natural curiosities, and also for its romantic situation. At length I +have determined on Derbyshire. + +During my absence I leave my trunk at Mr. Mulhausen’s (one of Mr. +Pointer’s senior partners), that I may not be at the needless expense of +paying for my lodging without making use of it. This Mr. Pointer lived +long in Germany, and is politely partial to us and our language, and +speaks it well. He is a well-bred and singularly obliging man; and one +who possesses a vast fund of information, and a good taste. I cannot but +feel myself happy in having obtained a recommendation to so accomplished +a man. I got it from Messrs. Persent and Dorner, to whom I had the +honour to be recommended by Mr. Von Taubenheim, Privy Counsellor at +Berlin. These recommendations have been of infinite use to me. + +I propose to go to-day as far as Richmond; for which place a stage sets +out about two o’clock from some inn, not far from the new church in the +Strand. Four guineas, some linen, my English book of the roads, and a +map and pocket-book, together with Milton’s Paradise Lost, which I must +put in my pocket, compose the whole of my equipage; and I hope to walk +very lightly with it. But it now strikes half-past one, and of course it +is time for me to be at the stage. Farewell! I will write to you again +from Richmond. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + _Richmond_, 21_st_ _June_, 1782. + +YESTERDAY afternoon I had the luxury for the first time of being driven +in an English stage. These coaches are, at least in the eyes of a +foreigner, quite elegant, lined in the inside; and with two seats large +enough to accommodate six persons; but it must be owned, when the +carriage is full, the company are rather crowded. + +At the White Hart from whence the coach sets out, there was, at first +only an elderly lady who got in; but as we drove along, it was soon +filled, and mostly by ladies, there being only one more gentleman and +myself. The conversation of the ladies among themselves, who appeared to +be a little acquainted with each other, seemed to me to be but very +insipid and tiresome. All I could do was, I drew out my book of the +roads, and marked the way we were going. + +Before you well know that you are out of London you are already in +Kensington and Hammersmith; because there are all the way houses on both +sides, after you are out of the city; just as you may remember the case +is with us when you drive from Berlin to Schoneberg; although in point of +prospect, houses and streets, the difference, no doubt, is prodigious. + +It was a fine day, and there were various delightful prospects on both +sides, on which the eye would willingly have dwelt longer, had not our +coach rolled on past them, so provokingly quick. It appeared somewhat +singular to me, when at a few miles from London, I saw at a distance a +beautiful white house; and perceived on the high road, on which we were +driving, a direction post, on which were written these words: “that great +white house at a distance is a boarding-school!” + +The man who was with us in the coach pointed out to us the country seats +of the lords and great people by which we passed; and entertained us with +all kind of stories of robberies which had been committed on travellers, +hereabouts; so that the ladies at last began to be rather afraid; on +which he began to stand up for the superior honour of the English +robbers, when compared with the French: the former he said robbed only, +the latter both robbed and murdered. + +Notwithstanding this there are in England another species of villains, +who also murder, and that oftentimes for the merest trifle, of which they +rob the person murdered. These are called footpads, and are the lowest +class of English rogues; amongst whom in general there reigns something +like some regard to character. + +The highest order of thieves are the pickpockets or cutpurses, whom you +find everywhere; and sometimes even in the best companies. They are +generally well and handsomely dressed, so that you take them to be +persons of rank; as indeed may sometimes be the case: persons who by +extravagance and excesses have reduced themselves to want, and find +themselves obliged at last to have recourse to pilfering and thieving. + +Next to them come the highwaymen, who rob on horseback; and often, they +say, even with unloaded pistols, they terrify travellers, in order to put +themselves in possession of their purses. Among these persons, however, +there are instances of true greatness of soul, there are numberless +instances of their returning a part of their booty, where the party +robbed has appeared to be particularly distressed; and they are seldom +guilty of murder. + +Then comes the third and lowest, and worst of all thieves and rogues, the +footpads before mentioned; who are on foot, and often murder in the most +inhuman manner, for the sake of only a few shillings, any unfortunate +people who happen to fall in their way. Of this several mournful +instances may be read almost daily in the English papers. Probably they +murder, because they cannot like highwaymen, aided by their horses, make +a rapid flight: and therefore such pests are frequently pretty easily +pursued and taken if the person robbed gives information of his robbery +in time. + +But to return to our stage, I must observe, that they have here a curious +way of riding, not in, but upon a stage-coach. Persons to whom it is not +convenient to pay a full price, instead of the inside, sit on the top of +the coach, without any seats or even a rail. By what means passengers +thus fasten themselves securely on the roof of these vehicles, I know +not; but you constantly see numbers seated there, apparently at their +ease, and in perfect safety. + +This they call riding on the outside; for which they pay only half as +much as those pay who are within: we had at present six of these +passengers over our heads, who, when we alighted, frequently made such a +noise and bustle, as sometimes almost frightened us. He who can properly +balance himself, rides not incommodiously on the outside; and in summer +time, in fine weather, on account of the prospects, it certainly is more +pleasant than it is within: excepting that the company is generally low, +and the dust is likewise more troublesome than in the inside, where, at +any rate, you may draw up the windows according to your pleasure. + +In Kensington, where we stopped, a Jew applied for a place along with us; +but as there was no seat vacant in the inside, he would not ride on the +outside, which seemed not quite to please my travelling companions. They +could not help thinking it somewhat preposterous that a Jew should be +ashamed to ride on the outside, or on any side, and in any way; since as +they added, he was nothing more than a Jew. This antipathy and prejudice +against the Jews, I have noticed to be far more common here, than it is +even with us, who certainly are not partial to them. + +Of the beautiful country seats and villas which we now passed, I could +only through the windows of our coach gain a partial and indistinct +prospect, which led me to wish, as I soon most earnestly did, to be +released from this movable prison. Towards evening we arrived at +Richmond. In London, before I set out, I had paid one shilling; another +was now demanded, so that upon the whole, from London to Richmond, the +passage in the stage costs just two shillings. + +As soon as I had alighted at an inn and had drunk my tea, I went out +immediately to see the town and the circumjacent country. + +Even this town, though hardly out of sight of London, is more +countrified, pleasanter, and more cheerful than London, and the houses do +not seem to be so much blackened by smoke. The people also appeared to +me here more sociable and more hospitable. I saw several sitting on +benches before their doors, to enjoy the cool breeze of the evening. On +a large green area in the middle of the town, a number of boys, and even +young men, were enjoying themselves, and playing at trap-ball. In the +streets there reigned here, compared to London, a pleasing rural +tranquillity, and I breathed a purer and fresher air. + +I went now out of the town over a bridge, which lies across the Thames, +and where you pay a penny as often as you pass over it. The bridge is +lofty and built in the form of an arch, and from it you enter immediately +into a most charming valley, that winds all along the banks of the +Thames. + +It was evening. The sun was just shedding her last parting rays on the +valley; but such an evening, and such a valley! Oh, it is impossible I +should ever forget them. The terrace at Richmond does assuredly afford +one of the finest prospects in the world. Whatever is charming in +nature, or pleasing in art, is to be seen here. Nothing I had ever seen, +or ever can see elsewhere, is to be compared to it. My feelings, during +the few short enraptured minutes that I stood there, it is impossible for +any pen to describe. + +One of my first sensations was chagrin and sorrow for the days and hours +I had wasted in London, and I had vented a thousand bitter reproaches on +my irresolution, that I had not long ago quitted that huge dungeon to +come here and pass my time in paradise. + +Yes, my friend, whatever be your ideas of paradise, and how luxuriantly +soever it may be depicted to your imagination, I venture to foretell that +here you will be sure to find all those ideas realised. In every point +of view, Richmond is assuredly one of the first situations in the world. +Here it was that Thomson and Pope gleaned from nature all those beautiful +passages with which their inimitable writings abound. + +Instead of the incessant distressing noise in London, I saw here at a +distance, sundry little family parties walking arm in arm along the banks +of the Thames. Everything breathed a soft and pleasing calm, which +warmed my heart and filed it with some of the most pleasing sensations of +which our nature is susceptible. + +Beneath I trod on that fresh, even, and soft verdure which is to be seen +only in England. On one side of me lay a wood, than which nature cannot +produce a finer, and on the other the Thames, with its shelvy bank and +charming lawns rising like an amphitheatre, along which, here and there, +one espies a picturesque white house, aspiring in majestic simplicity to +pierce the dark foliage of the surrounding trees; thus studding, like +stars in the galaxy, the rich expanse of this charming vale. + +Sweet Richmond! never, no, never, shall I forget that lovely evening, +when from thy fairy hills thou didst so hospitably smile on me, a poor +lonely, insignificant stranger! As I traversed to and fro thy meads, thy +little swelling hills and flowery dells, and above all that queen of all +rivers, thy own majestic Thames, I forgot all sublunary cares, and +thought only of heaven and heavenly things. Happy, thrice happy am I, I +again and again exclaimed, that I am no longer in yon gloomy city, but +here in Elysium, in Richmond. + +O ye copsy hills, ye green meadows, and ye rich streams in this blessed +country, how have ye enchanted me? Still, however, let me recollect and +resolve, as I firmly do, that even ye shall not prevent my return to +those barren and dusty lands where my, perhaps a less indulgent, destiny +has placed me, and where, in the due discharge of all the arduous and +important duties of that humble function to which providence has called +me, I must and I will faithfully exert my best talents, and in that +exertion find pleasure, and I trust, happiness. In every future moment +of my life, however, the recollection of this scene, and the feelings it +inspired, shall cheer my labours and invigorate my efforts. + +These were some of my reflections, my dearest friend, during my solitary +walk. Of the evening I passed at Richmond, I speak feebly when I content +myself with saying only, it was one of the pleasantest I ever spent in my +life. + +I now resolved to go to bed early, with a firm purpose of also rising +early the next day to revisit this charming walk; for I thought to +myself, I have now seen this temple of the modern world imperfectly; I +have seen it only by moonlight. How much more charming must it be when +glistening with the morning dew! These fond hopes, alas, were all +disappointed. In all great schemes of enjoyment, it is, I believe, no +bad way always to figure to yourself some possible evil that may arise, +and to anticipate a disappointment. If I had done so, I should not +perhaps have felt the mortification I then experienced quite so pungent. +By some means or other I stayed too long out, and so when I returned to +Richmond, I had forgot the name and the sign of the inn where I had +before stopped; it cost me no little trouble to find it again. + +When at last I got back, I told the people what a sweet walk I had had, +and they then spoke much of a prospect from a neighbouring hill, known by +the name of Richmond Hill, which was the very same hill from the top of +which I had just been gazing at the houses in the vale, the preceding +evening. From this same kill, therefore, I resolved the next morning to +see the sun rise. + +The landlady of this house was a notable one, and talked so much and so +loud to her servants, that I could not get to sleep till it was pretty +late. However, I was up next morning at three o’clock, and was now +particularly sensible of the great inconveniences they sustain in England +by their bad custom of rising so late, for as I was the only one in this +family who was up, I could not get out of the house. This obliged me to +spend three most irksome and heavy hours till six o’clock; however, a +servant at length opened the door, and I rushed out to climb Richmond +Hill. To my infinite disappointment, within the space of an hour, the +sky had become overcast, and it was now so cloudy that I could not even +see, nor of course enjoy one half of the delightful prospect that lay +before me. + +On the top of this hill is an alley of chestnut trees, under which here +and there seats are placed. Behind the alley is a row of well-built +gentlemen’s country seats. One does not wonder to see it thus occupied; +besides the pure air, the prospect exceeds everything else of the kind in +the world. I never saw a palace which, if I were the owner of it, I +would not give for any of the houses I now saw on Richmond Terrace. + +The descent of the hill to the Thames is covered with verdure, the Thames +at the foot of it forms near a semicircle, in which it seems to embrace +woody plains, with meadows and country seats in its bosom. On one side +you see the town and its magnificent bridge, and on the other a dark +wood. + +At a distance you could perceive, peeping out among the meadows and +woods, sundry small villages, so that notwithstanding the dulness of the +weather, this prospect even now was one of the finest I had ever seen. +But what is the reason that yesterday evening my feelings were far more +acute and lively, the impressions made on me much stronger, when from the +vale I viewed the hill and fancied that there was in it every thing that +was delightful, than they are this morning, when from the hill I +overlooked the vale and knew pretty exactly what it contained? + +I have now finished my breakfast, and once more seize my staff, the only +companion I have, and now again set out on this romantic journey on foot. +From Windsor you shall hear more of me. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + _Windsor_, 23_rd_ _June_. + +I HAVE already, my dearest friend, now that I write to you from hence, +experienced so many inconveniences as a traveller on foot, that I am at +some loss to determine whether or no I shall go on with my journey in the +same manner. + +A traveller on foot in this country seems to be considered as a sort of +wild man or out-of-the way being, who is stared at, pitied, suspected, +and shunned by everybody that meets him. At least this has hitherto been +my case on the road from Richmond to Windsor. + +My host at Richmond, yesterday morning, could not sufficiently express +his surprise that I intended to venture to walk as far as Oxford, and +still farther. He however was so kind as to send his son, a clever +little boy, to show me the road leading to Windsor. + +At first I walked along a very pleasant footway by the side of the +Thames, where close to my right lay the king’s garden. On the opposite +bank of the Thames was Isleworth, a spot that seemed to be distinguished +by some elegant gentlemen’s country-seats and gardens. Here I was +obliged to ferry the river in order to get into the Oxford Road, which +also leads to Windsor. + +When I was on the other side of the water, I came to a house and asked a +man who was standing at the door if I was on the right road to Oxford. +“Yes,” said he, “but you want a carriage to carry you thither.” When I +answered him that I intended walking it, he looked at me significantly, +shook his head, and went into the house again. + +I was now on the road to Oxford. It is a charming fine broad road, and I +met on it carriages without number, which, however, on account of the +heat, occasioned a dust that was extremely troublesome and disagreeable. +The fine green hedges, which border the roads in England, contribute +greatly to render them pleasant. This was the case in the road I now +travelled, for when I was tired I sat down in the shade under one of +these hedges and read Milton. But this relief was soon rendered +disagreeable to me, for those who rode or drove past me, stared at me +with astonishment, and made many significant gestures as if they thought +my head deranged; so singular must it needs have appeared to them to see +a man sitting along the side of a public road and reading. I therefore +found myself obliged, when I wished to rest myself and read, to look out +for a retired spot in some by-lane or crossroad. + +When I again walked, many of the coachmen who drove by called out to me, +ever and anon, and asked if I would not ride on the outside; and when, +every now and then, a farmer on horseback met me, he said, and seemingly +with an air of pity for me, “’Tis warm walking, sir;” and when I passed +through a village, every old woman testified her pity by an exclamation +of—“Good God!” + +As far as Hounslow the way was very pleasant; afterwards I thought it not +quite so good. It lay across a common, which was of a considerable +extent, and bare and naked, excepting that here and there I saw sheep +feeding. + +I now began to be very tired, when, to my astonishment, I saw a tree in +the middle of the common that stood quite solitary, and spread a shade +like an arbour round it. At the bottom, round the trunk, a bench was +placed, on which one may sit down. Beneath the shade of this tree I +reposed myself a little, read some of Milton, and made a note in my +memorandum-book that I would remember this tree, which had so charitably +and hospitably received under its shade a weary traveller. This, you +see, I have now done. + +The short English miles are delightful for walking. You are always +pleased to find, every now and then, in how short a time you have walked +a mile, though, no doubt, a mile is everywhere a mile, I walk but a +moderate pace, and can accomplish four English miles in an hour. It used +to take me pretty nearly the same time for one German mile. Now it is a +pleasing exchange to find that in two hours I can walk eight miles. And +now I fancy I was about seventeen miles from London, when I came to an +inn, where, for a little wine and water, I was obliged to pay sixpence. +An Englishman who happened to be sitting by the side of the innkeeper +found out that I was a German, and, of course, from the country of his +queen, in praise of whom he was quite lavish, observing more than once +that England never had had such a queen, and would not easily get such +another. + +It now began to grow hot. On the left hand, almost close to the high +road, I met with a singularly clear rivulet. In this I bathed, and was +much refreshed, and afterwards, with fresh alacrity, continued my +journey. + +I had now got over the common, and was once more in a country rich and +well cultivated beyond all conception. This continued to be the case as +far as Slough, which is twenty miles and a half from London, on the way +to Oxford, and from which to the left there is a road leading to Windsor, +whose high white castle I have already seen at a distance. + +I made no stay here, but went directly to the right, along a very +pleasant high road, between meadows and green hedges, towards Windsor, +where I arrived about noon. + +It strikes a foreigner as something particular and unusual when, on +passing through these fine English towns, he observed one of those +circumstances by which the towns in Germany are distinguished from the +villages—no walls, no gates, no sentries, nor garrisons. No stern +examiner comes here to search and inspect us or our baggage; no imperious +guard here demands a sight of our passports; perfectly free and +unmolested, we here walk through villages and towns as unconcerned as we +should through a house of our own. + +Just before I got to Windsor I passed Eton College, one of the first +public schools in England, and perhaps in the world. I have before +observed that there are in England fewer of these great schools than one +might expect. It lay on my left; and on the right, directly opposite to +it, was an inn, into which I went. + +I suppose it was during the hour of recreation, or in playtime, when I +got to Eton, for I saw the boys in the yard before the college, which was +enclosed by a low wall, in great numbers, walking and running up and +down. + +Their dress struck me particularly. From the biggest to the least, they +all wore black cloaks, or gowns, over coloured clothes, through which +there was an aperture for their arms. They also wore besides a square +hat or cap, that seemed to be covered with velvet, such as our clergymen +in many places wear. + +They were differently employed—some talking together, some playing, and +some had their books in their hands, and were reading; but I was soon +obliged to get out of their sight, they stared at me so as I came along, +all over dust, with my stick in my hand. + +As I entered the inn, and desired to have something to eat, the +countenance of the waiter soon gave me to understand that I should there +find no very friendly reception. Whatever I got they seemed to give me +with such an air as showed too plainly how little they thought of me, and +as if they considered me but as a beggar. I must do them the justice to +own, however, that they suffered me to pay like a gentleman. No doubt +this was the first time this pert, bepowdered puppy had ever been called +on to wait on a poor devil who entered their place on foot. I was tired, +and asked for a bedroom where I might sleep. They showed me into one +that much resembled a prison for malefactors. I requested that I might +have a better room at night; on which, without any apology, they told me +that they had no intention of lodging me, as they had no room for such +guests, but that I might go back to Slough, where very probably I might +get a night’s lodging. + +With money in my pocket, and a consciousness, moreover, that I was doing +nothing that was either imprudent, unworthy, or really mean, I own it +mortified and vexed me to find myself obliged to put up with this +impudent ill-usage from people who ought to reflect that they are but the +servants of the public, and little likely to recommend themselves to the +high by being insolent to the low. They made me, however, pay them two +shillings for my dinner and coffee, which I had just thrown down, and was +preparing to shake off the dust from my shoes, and quit this inhospitable +St. Christopher, when the green hills of Windsor smiled so friendly upon +me, that they seemed to invite me first to visit them. + +And now trudging through the streets of Windsor, I at length mounted a +sort of hill; a steep path led me on to its summit, close to the walls of +the castle, where I had an uncommonly extensive and fine prospect, which +so much raised my heart, that in a moment I forgot not only the insults +of waiters and tavern-keepers, but the hardship of my lot in being +obliged to travel in a manner that exposed me to the scorn of a people +whom I wished to respect. Below me lay the most beautiful landscapes in +the world—all the rich scenery that nature, in her best attire, can +exhibit. Here were the spots that furnished those delightful themes of +which the muse of Denham and Pope made choice. I seemed to view a whole +world at once, rich and beautiful beyond conception. At that moment what +more could I have wished for? + +And the venerable castle, that royal edifice which, in every part of it, +has strong traces of antiquity, smiles through its green trees, like the +serene countenance of some hoary sage, who, by the vigour of a happy +constitution, still retains many of the charms of youth. + +Nothing inspired me with more veneration and awe than the fine old +building St. George’s Church, which, as you come down from the castle, is +on your right. At the sight of it past centuries seemed to revive in my +imagination. + +But I will see no more of those sights which are shown you by one of +those venal praters, who ten times a day, parrot-wise, repeat over the +same dull lesson they have got by heart. The surly fellow, who for a +shilling conducted me round the church, had nearly, with his chattering, +destroyed the finest impressions. Henry VIII., Charles I., and Edward +IV. are buried here. After all, this church, both within and without, +has a most melancholy and dismal appearance. + +They were building at what is called the queen’s palace, and prodigious +quantities of materials are provided for that purpose. + +I now went down a gentle declivity into the delightful park at Windsor, +at the foot of which it looks so sombrous and gloomy that I could hardly +help fancying it was some vast old Gothic temple. This forest certainly, +in point of beauty, surpasses everything of the kind you can figure to +yourself. To its own charms, when I saw it, there were added a most +pleasing and philosophical solitude, the coolness of an evening breeze, +all aided by the soft sounds of music, which, at this distance from the +castle, from whence it issued, was inexpressibly sweet. It threw me into +a sort of enthusiastic and pleasing reverie, which made me ample amends +for the fatigues, discourtesies, and continued cross accidents I had +encountered in the course of the day. + +I now left the forest; the clock struck six, and the workmen were going +home from their work. + +I have forgot to mention the large round tower of the castle, which is +also a very ancient building. The roads that lead to it are all along +their sides planted with shrubs; these, being modern and lively, make a +pleasing contrast to the fine old mossy walls. On the top of this tower +the flag of Great Britain is usually displayed, which, however, as it was +now late in the evening, was taken in. + +As I came down from the castle I saw the king driving up to it in a very +plain, two-wheeled, open carriage. The people here were politer than I +used to think they were in London, for I did not see a single person, +high or low, who did not pull off their hats as their sovereign passed +them. + +I was now again in Windsor, and found myself, not far from the castle, +opposite to a very capital inn, where I saw many officers and several +persons of consequence going in and out. And here at this inn, contrary +to all expectation, I was received by the landlord with great civility, +and even kindness—very contrary to the haughty and insolent airs which +the upstart at the other, and his jackanapes of a waiter, there thought +fit to give themselves. + +However, it seemed to be my fate to be still a scandal and an eyesore to +all the waiters. The maid, by the order of her master, showed me a room +where I might adjust my dress a little; but I could hear her mutter and +grumble as she went along with me. Having put myself a little to rights, +I went down into the coffee-room, which is immediately at the entrance of +the house, and told the landlord that I thought I wished to have yet one +more walk. On this he obligingly directed me to stroll down a pleasant +field behind his house, at the foot of which, he said, I should find the +Thames, and a good bathing place. + +I followed his advice; and this evening was, if possible, finer than the +preceding. Here again, as I had been told I should, I found the Thames +with all its gentle windings. Windsor shone nearly as bright over the +green vale as those charming houses on Richmond Hill, and the verdure was +not less soft and delicate. The field I was in seemed to slope a little +towards the Thames. I seated myself near a bush, and there waited the +going down of the sun. At a distance I saw a number of people bathing in +the Thames. When, after sunset, they were a little dispersed, I drew +near the spot I had been directed to; and here, for the first time, I +sported in the cool tide of the Thames. The bank was steep, but my +landlord had dug some steps that went down into the water, which is +extremely convenient for those who cannot swim. Whilst I was there, a +couple of smart lively apprentice boys came also from the town, who, with +the greatest expedition, threw off their clothes and leathern aprons, and +plunged themselves, head foremost, into the water, where they opposed the +tide with their sinewy arms till they were tired. They advised me, with +much natural civility, to untie my hair, and that then, like them, I +might plunge into the stream head foremost. + +Refreshed and strengthened by this cool bath, I took a long walk by +moonlight on the banks of the Thames. To my left were the towers of +Windsor, before me a little village with a steeple, the top of which +peeped out among the green trees, at a distance two inviting hills which +I was to climb in the morning, and around me the green cornfields. Oh! +how indescribably beautiful was this evening and this walk! At a +distance among the houses I could easily descry the inn where I lodged, +and where I seemed to myself at length to have found a place of refuge +and a home; and I thought, if I could but stay there, I should not be +very sorry if I were never to find another. + +How soon did all these pleasing dreams vanish! On my return the waiters +(who, from my appearance, too probably expected but a trifling reward for +their attentions to me) received me gruffly, and as if they were sorry to +see me again. This was not all; I had the additional mortification to be +again roughly accosted by the cross maid who had before shown me to the +bed-chamber, and who, dropping a kind of half courtesy, with a suppressed +laugh, sneeringly told me I might look out for another lodging, as I +could not sleep there, since the room she had by mistake shown me was +already engaged. It can hardly be necessary to tell you that I loudly +protested against this sudden change. At length the landlord came, and I +appealed to him; and he with great courtesy immediately desired another +room to be shown me, in which, however, there were two beds, so that I +was obliged to admit a companion. Thus was I very near being a second +time turned out of an inn. + +Directly under my room was the tap-room, from which I could plainly hear +too much of the conversation of some low people, who were drinking and +singing songs, in which, as far as I could understand them, there were +many passages at least as vulgar and nonsensical as ours. + +This company, I guessed, consisted chiefly of soldiers and low fellows. +I was hardly well lulled to sleep by this hurly-burly, when my chum +(probably one of the drinking party below) came stumbling into the room +and against my bed. At length, though not without some difficulty, he +found his own bed, into which he threw himself just as he was, without +staying to pull off either clothes or boots. + +This morning I rose very early, as I had proposed, in order to climb the +two hills which yesterday presented me with so inviting a prospect, and +in particular that one of them on the summit of which a high white house +appeared among the dark-green trees; the other was close by. + +I found no regular path leading to these hills, and therefore went +straight forward, without minding roads, only keeping in view the object +of my aim. This certainly created me some trouble. I had sometimes a +hedge, and sometimes a hog to walk round; but at length I had attained +the foot of the so earnestly wished-for hill with the high white house on +its summit, when, just as I was going to ascend it, and was already +pleasing myself in the idea with the prospect from the white house, +behold I read these words on a board: “Take care! there are steel traps +and spring guns here.” + +All my labour was lost, and I now went round to the other hill; but here +were also steel traps and spring gnus, though probably never intended to +annoy such a wanderer as myself, who wished only to enjoy the fine +morning air from this eminence. + +Thus disappointed in my hopes, I returned to Windsor, much in the same +temper and manner as I had yesterday morning from Richmond Hill; where my +wishes had also been frustrated. + +When I got to my inn, I received from the ill-tempered maid, who seemed +to have been stationed there on purpose to plague and vex me, the polite +welcome, that on no account should I sleep another night there. Luckily, +that was not my intention. I now write to you in the coffee room, where +two Germans are talking together, who certainly little suspect how well I +understand them; if I were to make myself known to them, as a German, +most probably, even these fellows would not speak to me, because I travel +on foot. I fancy they are Hanoverians! The weather is so fine that, +notwithstanding the inconveniences I have hitherto experienced on this +account, I think I shall continue my journey in the same manner. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + + _Oxford_, _June_ 25. + +TO what various, singular, and unaccountable fatalities and adventures +are not foot-travellers exposed, in this land of carriages and horses! +But, I will begin my relation in form and order. + +In Windsor, I was obliged to pay for an old fowl I had for supper, for a +bedroom which I procured with some difficulty, and not without murmurs, +and in which, to complete my misadventures, I was disturbed by a drunken +fellow; and for a couple of dishes of tea, nine shillings, of which the +fowl alone was charged six shillings. + +As I was going away the waiter, who had served me with so very ill a +grace, placed himself on the stairs and said, “Pray remember the waiter.” +I gave him three halfpence, on which he saluted me with the heartiest +“G—d d—n you, sir!” I had ever heard. At the door stood the cross maid, +who also accosted me with, “Pray remember the chambermaid.” “Yes, yes,” +said I, “I shall long remember your most ill-mannered behaviour and +shameful incivility;” and so I gave her nothing. I hope she was stung +and nettled at my reproof; however, she strove to stifle her anger by a +contemptuous, loud, hoarse laugh. Thus, as I left Windsor, I was +literally followed by abuses and curses. + +I am very sorry to say that I rejoiced when I once more perceived the +towers of Windsor behind me. It is not proper for wanderers to be +prowling near the palaces of kings, and so I sat me down, +philosophically, in the shade of a green hedge, and again read Milton, no +friend of kings, though the first of poets. Whatever I may think of +their inns, it is impossible not to admire and be charmed with this +country. + +I took my way through Slough, by Salthill, to Maidenhead. At Salthill, +which can hardly be called even a village, I saw a barber’s shop, and so +I resolved to get myself both shaved and dressed. For putting my hair a +little in order, and shaving me, I was forced to pay him a shilling. +Opposite to this shop there stands an elegant house and a neat garden. + +Between Salthill and Maidenhead, I met with the first very remarkable and +alarming adventure that has occurred during my pilgrimage. + +Hitherto I had scarcely met a single foot passenger, whilst coaches +without number every moment rolled past me, for there are few roads, even +in England, more crowded than this western road, which leads to Bath and +Bristol as well as to Oxford. I now also began to meet numbers of people +on horseback, which is by no means an usual method of travelling. + +The road now led me along a low sunken piece of ground between high +trees, so that I could not see far before me, when a fellow in a brown +frock and round hat, with a stick in his hand a great deal stronger than +mine, came up to me. His countenance immediately struck me as having in +it something suspicious. He however passed me; but, before I was aware, +he turned back and asked me for a halfpenny to buy, as he said, some +bread, as he had eaten nothing that day. I felt in my pocket, and found +that I had no halfpence: no, nor even a sixpence; in short, nothing but +shillings. I told him the circumstance, which I hoped would excuse me; +on which he said, with an air and manner the drift of which I could not +understand, “God bless my soul!” This drew my attention still closer to +the huge brawny fist, which grasped his stick, and that closer attention +determined me immediately to put my hand in my pocket and give him a +shilling. Meanwhile a coach came up. The fellow thanked me and went on. +Had the coach come a moment sooner, I should not easily have given him +the shilling, which, God knows, I could not well spare. Whether this was +a footpad or not, I will not pretend to say, but he had every appearance +of it. + +I now came to Maidenhead bridge, which is five-and-twenty English miles +from London. + +The English milestones give me much pleasure, and they certainly are a +great convenience to travellers. They have often seemed to ease me of +half the distance of a journey merely by telling me how far I had already +gone, and by assuring me that I was on the right road. For, besides the +distance from London, every milestone informs you that to the next place +is so many miles, and where there are cross-roads there are +direction-posts, so that it is hardly possible to lose one’s-self in +walking. I must confess that all this journey has seemed but as it were +one continued walk for pleasure. + +From Maidenhead bridge there is a delightful prospect towards a hill, +which extends itself along the right bank of the Thames, and on the top +of it there are two beautiful country seats, all surrounded with meadows +and parks. The first is called Taplow, and belongs to the Earl of +Inchiquin; and a little farther Cliefden, which also belongs to him. + +These villas seem all to be surrounded with green meadows, lying along +thick woods, and, altogether, are most charming. + +From this bridge it is not far to Maidenhead, near which, on the left, is +another prospect of a beautiful seat, belonging to Pennyston Powney, Esq. + +All this knowledge I have gained chiefly from my English guide; which I +have constantly in my hand; and in which everything most worthy of notice +in every mile is marked. These notices I get confirmed or refuted by the +people at whose houses I stop; who wonder how I, who am a foreigner, have +come to be so well acquainted with their country. + +Maidenhead is a place of little note; for some mulled ale, which I +desired them to make me, I was obliged to pay ninepence. I fancy they +did not take me to be either a great, or a very rich man, for I heard +them say, as I passed on, “A stout fellow!” This, though perhaps not +untrue, did not seem to sound in my ears as very respectful. + +At the end of the village was a shoemaker’s shop, just as at the end of +Salthill there was a barber’s shop. + +From hence I went to Henley, which is eleven miles from Maidenhead, and +thirty-six from London. + +Having walked pretty fast for six English miles together, and being now +only five miles from Henley, I came to a rising ground where there just +happened to be a milestone, near which I sat down, to enjoy one of the +most delightful prospects, the contemplation of which I recommend to +everyone who may ever happen to come to this spot. Close before me rose +a soft hill, full of green cornfields, fenced with quick-hedges, and the +top of it was encircled with a wood. + +At some little distance, in a large semicircle, one green hill rose after +another, all around me, gently raising themselves aloft from the banks of +the Thames, and on which woods, meadows, arable lands, and villages were +interspersed in the greatest and most beautiful variety; whilst at their +foot the Thames meandered, in most picturesque windings, among villages, +gentlemen’s seats, and green vales. + +The banks of the Thames are everywhere beautiful, everywhere charming; +how delighted was I with the sight of it when, having lost it for a short +time, I suddenly and unexpectedly saw it again with all its beautiful +banks. In the vale below, flocks were feeding; and from the hills I +heard the sweet chimes of distant bells. + +The circumstance that renders these English prospects so enchantingly +beautiful, is a concurrence and union of the _tout ensemble_. Everything +coincides and conspires to render them fine, moving pictures. It is +impossible to name, or find a spot, on which the eye would not delight to +dwell. Any of the least beautiful of any of these views that I have seen +in England would, anywhere in Germany, be deemed a paradise. + +Reinforced, as it were, by this gratifying prospect, to support fresh +fatigues, I now walked a quick pace, both up and down the hills, the five +remaining miles to Henley, where I arrived about four in the afternoon. + +To the left, just before I got to Henley, on this side of the Thames, I +saw on a hill a fine park and a magnificent country seat, at present +occupied by General Conway. + +Just before my entrance into Henley, I walked a little directly on the +banks of the Thames; and sat myself down in the high grass, whilst +opposite to me, on the other side, lay the park on the hill. As I was a +little tired, I fell asleep, and when I awoke the last rays of the +setting sun just shone upon me. + +Invigorated by this sweet, though short, slumber, I walked on and entered +the town. Its appearance, however, indicated that it was too fine a +place for me, and so I determined to stop at an inn on the road-side, +such a one as the Vicar of Wakefield well calls, “the resort of indigence +and frugality.” + +The worst of it was, no one, even in these places of refuge, would take +me in. Yet, on this road, I met two farmers, the first of whom I asked +whether he thought I could get a night’s lodging at a house which I saw +at a distance, by the road side. “Yes, sir, I daresay you may,” he +replied. But he was mistaken: when I came there, I was accosted with +that same harsh salutation, which though, alas, no longer quite new to +me, was still unpleasing to my ears; “We have got no beds; you can’t stay +here to-night.” It was the same at the other inn on the road; I was +therefore obliged to determine to walk on as far as Nettlebed, which was +five miles farther, where I arrived rather late in the evening, when it +was indeed quite dark. + +Everything seemed to be all alive in this little village; there was a +party of militia soldiers who were dancing, singing, and making merry. +Immediately on my entrance into the village, the first house that I saw, +lying on my left, was an inn, from which, as usual in England, a large +beam extended across the street to the opposite house, from which hung +dangling an astonishing large sign, with the name of the proprietor. + +“May I stay here to-night?” I asked with eagerness. “Why, yes, you may;” +an answer which, however cold and surly, made me exceedingly happy. + +They showed me into the kitchen, and set me down to sup at the same table +with some soldiers and the servants. I now, for the first time, found +myself in one of those kitchens which I had so often read of in +Fielding’s fine novels; and which certainly give one, on the whole, a +very accurate idea of English manners. + +The chimney in this kitchen, where they were roasting and boiling, seemed +to be taken off from the rest of the room and enclosed by a wooden +partition; the rest of the apartment was made use of as a sitting and +eating-room. All round on the sides were shelves with pewter dishes and +plates, and the ceiling was well stored with provisions of various kinds, +such as sugar-loaves, black-puddings, hams, sausages, flitches of bacon, +&c. + +While I was eating, a post-chaise drove up, and in a moment both the +folding-doors were thrown open and the whole house set in motion, in +order to receive, with all due respect, these guests, who, no doubt, were +supposed to be persons of consequence. The gentlemen alighted, however, +only for a moment, and called for nothing but a couple of pots of beer, +and then drove away again. Notwithstanding, the people of the house +behaved to them with all possible attention, for they came in a +post-chaise. + +Though this was only an ordinary village, and they certainly did not take +me for a person of consequence, they yet gave me a carpeted bedroom, and +a very good bed. + +The next morning I put on clean linen, which I had along with me, and +dressed myself as well as I could. And now, when I thus made my +appearance, they did not, as they had the evening before, show me into +the kitchen, but into the parlour, a room that seemed to be allotted for +strangers, on the ground-floor. I was also now addressed by the most +respectful term, “sir;” whereas the evening before I had been called only +“master”: by this latter appellation, I believe, it is usual to address +only farmers and quite common people. + +This was Sunday, and all the family were in their Sunday-clothes. I now +began to be much pleased with this village, and so I resolved to stop at +it for the day, and attend divine service. For this purpose I borrowed a +prayer-book of my host. Mr. Illing was his name, which struck me the +more, perhaps, because it is a very common name in Germany. During my +breakfast I read over several parts of the English liturgy, and could not +help being struck at the circumstance that every word in the whole +service seems to be prescribed and dictated to the clergyman. They do +not visit the sick but by a prescribed form; as, for instance, they must +begin by saying, “Peace be to this house,” &c. + +Its being called a prayer-book, rather than, like ours, a hymn-book, +arises from the nature of the English service, which is composed very +little of singing, and almost entirely of praying. The psalms of David, +however, are here translated into English verse, and are generally +printed at the end of English prayer-books. + +The prayer-book which my landlord lent me was quite a family piece, for +all his children’s births and names, and also his own wedding-day, were +very carefully set down on it. Even on this account alone the book would +not have been uninteresting to me. + +At half-past nine the service began. Directly opposite to our house, the +boys of the village were all drawn up, as if they had been recruits to be +drilled; all well-looking, healthy lads, neat and decently dressed, and +with their hair cut short and combed on the forehead, according to the +English fashion; their bosoms were open, and the white frills of their +shirts turned back on each side. They seemed to be drawn up here at the +entrance of the village merely to wait the arrival of the clergyman. + +I walked a little way out of the village, where, at some distance, I saw +several people coming from another village, to attend divine service here +at Nettlebed. + +At length came the parson on horseback. The boys pulled off their hats, +and all made him very low bows. He appeared to be rather an elderly man, +and wore his own hair round and decently dressed, or rather curled +naturally. + +The bell now rung in, and so I too, with a sort of secret proud +sensation, as if I also had been an Englishman, went with my prayer-book +under my arm to church, along with the rest of the congregation; and when +I got into the church, the clerk very civilly seated me close to the +pulpit. + +Nothing can possibly be more simple, apt, and becoming than the few +decorations of this church. + +Directly over the altar, on two tables in large letters, the ten +commandments were written. There surely is much wisdom and propriety in +thus placing, full in the view of the people, the sum and substance of +all morality. + +Under the pulpit near the steps that led up to it, was a desk, from which +the clergyman read the liturgy, the responses were all regularly made by +the clerk; the whole congregation joining occasionally, though but in a +low voice; as for instance, the minister said, “Lord, have mercy upon +us!” the clerk and the congregation immediately subjoin, “and forgive us +all our sins.” In general, when the clergyman offers up a prayer, the +clerk and the whole congregation answer only, Amen! + +The English service must needs be exceedingly fatiguing to the +officiating minister, inasmuch as besides a sermon, the greatest part of +the liturgy falls to his share to read, besides the psalms and two +lessons. + +The joining of the whole congregation in prayer has something exceedingly +solemn and affecting in it. + +Two soldiers, who sat near me in the church, and who had probably been in +London, seemed to wish to pass for philosophers, and wits; for they did +not join in the prayers of the church. + +The service was now pretty well advanced, when I observed some little +stir in the desk, the clerk was busy, and they seemed to be preparing for +something new and solemn, and I also perceived several musical +instruments. The clergyman now stopped, and the clerk then said in a +loud voice, “Let us sing to the praise and glory of God, the +forty-seventh psalm.” + +I cannot well express how affecting and edifying it seemed to me, to hear +this whole orderly and decent congregation, in this small country church, +joining together with vocal and instrumental music, in the praise of +their Maker. It was the more grateful, as having been performed, not by +mercenary musicians, but by the peaceful and pious inhabitants of this +sweet village. I can hardly figure to myself any offering more likely to +be grateful to God. + +The congregation sang and prayed alternately several times, and the tunes +of the psalms were particularly lively and cheerful, though at the same +time sufficiently grave, and uncommonly interesting. I am a warm admirer +of all sacred music, and I cannot but add that that of the Church of +England is particularly calculated to raise the heart to devotion; I own +it often affected me even to tears. + +The clergyman now stood up and made a short but very proper discourse on +this text: “Not all they who say, Lord, Lord! shall enter the kingdom of +heaven.” His language was particularly plain, though forcible; his +arguments were no less plain, convincing, and earnest, but contained +nothing that was particularly striking. I do not think the sermon lasted +more than half an hour. + +This clergyman had not perhaps a very prepossessing appearance; I thought +him also a little distant and reserved, and I did not quite like his +returning the bows of the farmers with a very formal nod. + +I stayed till the service was quite over, and then went out of the church +with the congregation, and amused myself with reading the inscriptions on +the tombstones in the churchyard, which in general, are simpler, more +pathetic, and better written than ours. + +There were some of them which, to be sure, were ludicrous and laughable +enough. + +Among these is one on the tomb of a smith, which on account of its +singularity, I here copy and send you. + + “My sledge and anvil he declined, + My bellows too have lost their wind; + My fire’s extinct, my forge decayed, + My coals are spent, my iron’s gone, + My nails are drove: my work is done.” + +Many of these epitaphs closed with the following quaint rhymes: + + “Physicians were in vain; + God knew the best; + So here I rest.” + +In the body of the church I saw a marble monument of a son of the +celebrated Dr. Wallis, with the following simple and affecting +inscription: + + “The same good sense which qualified him for every public employment + Taught him to spend his life here in retirement.” + +All the farmers whom I saw there were dressed, not as ours are, in coarse +frocks, but with some taste, in fine good cloth; and were to be +distinguished from the people of the town, not so much by their dress, as +by the greater simplicity and modesty of their behaviour. + +Some soldiers, who probably were ambitious of being thought to know the +world, and to be wits, joined me, as I was looking at the church, and +seemed to be quite ashamed of it, as they said it was only a very +miserable church. On which I took the liberty to inform them, that no +church could be miserable which contained orderly and good people. + +I stayed here to dinner. In the afternoon there was no service; the +young people however, went to church, and there sang some few psalms; +others of the congregation were also present. This was conducted with so +much decorum, that I could hardly help considering it as actually a kind +of church-service. I stayed with great pleasure till this meeting also +was over. + +I seemed indeed to be enchanted, and as if I could not leave this +village. Three times did I get off, in order to go on farther, and as +often returned, more than half resolved to spend a week, or more, in my +favourite Nettlebed. + +But the recollection that I had but a few weeks to stay in England, and +that I must see Derbyshire, at length drove me away. I cast many a +longing, lingering look on the little church-steeple, and those +hospitable friendly roofs, where, all that morning, I had found myself so +perfectly at home. + +It was now nearly three o’clock in the afternoon when I left this place, +and I was still eighteen miles from Oxford. However, I seemed resolved +to make more than one stage of it to Oxford, that seat of the muses, and +so, by passing the night about five miles from it, to reach it in good +time next morning. + +The road from Nettlebed seemed to me but as one long fine gravel walk in +a neat garden. And my pace in it was varied, like that of one walking in +a garden: I sometimes walked quick, then slow, and then sat down and read +Milton. + +When I had got about eight miles from Nettlebed, and was now not far from +Dorchester, I had the Thames at some distance on my left, and on the +opposite side I saw an extensive hill, behind which a tall mast seemed to +rise. This led me to suppose that on the other side of the hill there +must needs also be a river. The prospect I promised myself from this +hill could not possibly be passed, and so I went out of the road to the +left over a bridge across the Thames, and mounted the hill, always +keeping the mast in view. When I had attained the summit, I found (and +not without some shame and chagrin) that it was all an illusion. There +was, in fact, nothing before me but a great plain, and the mast had been +fixed there, either as a maypole only, or to entice curious people out of +their way. + +I therefore now again, slowly and sullenly, descended the hill, at the +bottom of which was a house, where several people were looking out of the +window, and, as I supposed, laughing at me. Even if it were so, it +seemed to be but fair, and so it rather amused, than vexed me, and I +continued to jog on, without much regretting my waste journey to the +mast. + +Not far from Dorchester, I had another delightful view. The country here +became so fine, that I positively could not prevail on myself to quit it, +and so I laid myself down on the green turf, which was so fresh and +sweet, that I could almost have been contented, like Nebuchadnezzar, to +have grazed on it. The moon was at the full; the sun darted its last +parting rays through the green hedges, to all which was added, the +overpowering fragrance of the meadows, the diversified song of the birds, +the hills that skirted the Thames, some of them of a light, and others of +a dark-green hue, with the tufted tops of trees dispersed here and there +among them. The contemplation of all these delightful circumstances +well-nigh overcame me. + +I arrived rather late at Dorchester. This is only a small place, but +there is in it a large and noble old church. As I was walking along, I +saw several ladies with their heads dressed, leaning out of their +windows, or standing before the houses, and this made me conclude that +this was too fine a place for me, and so I determined to walk on +three-quarters of a mile farther to Nuneham, which place is only five +miles from Oxford. When I reached Nuneham, I was not a little tired, and +it was also quite dark. + +The place consists of two rows of low, neat houses, built close to each +other, and as regular and uniform as a London street. All the doors +seemed to be shut, and even a light was to be seen only in a few of them. + +At length quite at the end of the place, I perceived a great sign hanging +across the street, and the last house to the left was the inn, at which +everything seemed to be still in motion. + +I entered without ceremony, and told them my errand, which was, that I +intended to sleep there that night. “By no means,” was the answer, “it +was utterly impossible; the whole house was full, and all their beds +engaged, and, as I had come so far, I might even as well walk on the +remaining five miles to Oxford.” + +Being very hungry, I requested that, at least, they would give me +something to eat. To this they answered that, as I could not stay all +night there, it would be more proper for me to sup where I lodged, and so +I might go on. + +At length, quite humbled by the untowardness of my circumstances, I asked +for a pot of beer, and that they did vouchsafe to give me, for ready +money only; but a bit of bread to eat with it (for which also I would +willingly have paid) they peremptorily refused me. + +Such unparalleled inhospitality I really could not have expected in an +English inn, but resolving, with a kind of spiteful indignation, to see +how far their inhumanity would carry them, I begged that they would only +let me sleep on a bench, and merely give me house-room, adding, that if +they would grant me that boon only, I would pay them the same as for a +bed, for, that I was so tired, I could not possibly go any farther. Even +in the moment that I was thus humbly soliciting this humble boon, they +banged the door to full in my face. + +As here, in a small village, they had refused to receive me, it seemed to +be presumption to hope that I should gain admittance at Oxford. What +could I do? I was much tired, and so, as it was not a very cold night, I +resolved to pass it in the open air; in this resolution, bouncing from +this rude inn, I went to look out for a convenient spot for that purpose +in an adjoining field, beneath some friendly tree. Just as I had found a +place, which I thought would do, and was going to pull off my great coat +to lay under my head by way of pillow, I heard someone behind me, +following me with a quick pace. At first I was alarmed, but my fears +were soon dispelled by his calling after me, and asking “if I would +accept of company.” + +As little as anyone is to be trusted who thus follows you into a field in +a dark night, yet it was a pleasure to me to find that there were still +some beings not quite inhuman, and at least one person who still +interested himself about me, I therefore stopped, and as he came up to me +he said that if I was a good walker, we might keep each other company, as +he was also going to Oxford. I readily accepted of his proposal, and so +we immediately set off together. + +Now, as I could not tell whether my travelling companion was to be +trusted or not, I soon took an opportunity to let him know that I was +poor, and much distressed. To confirm this, I told him of the inhumanity +with which I had just been treated at the inn, where they refused a poor +wanderer so much as a place to lay his head, or even a morsel of bread +for his money. + +My companion somewhat excused the people by saying that the house was +really full of people who had been at work in the neighbourhood, and now +slept there. But that they had refused me a bit of bread he certainly +could not justify. As we went along, other topics of conversation were +started, and among other things he asked me where I came from that day. + +I answered from Nettlebed, and added, that I had attended divine service +there that morning. + +“As you probably passed through Dorchester this afternoon,” said he, “you +might have heard me preach also, had you come into the church there, for +that is my curacy, from which I am just come, and am now returning to +Oxford.” “So you are a clergyman;” said I, quite overjoyed that, in a +dark night, I had met a companion on the road, who was of the same +profession as myself. “And I, also,” said I, “am a preacher of the +gospel, though not of this country.” And now I thought it right to give +him to understand, that it was not, as I had before intimated, out of +absolute poverty, but with a view of becoming better acquainted with men +and manners, that I thus travelled on foot. He was as much pleased with +this agreeable meeting as myself, and before we took a step farther, we +cordially shook hands. + +He now began to address me in Latin, and on my answering him in that +language, which I attempted to pronounce according to the English manner +of speaking it, he applauded me not a little for my correct +pronunciation. He then told me, that some years ago, in the night also, +and nearly at the same spot where he found me, he had met another German, +who likewise spoke to him in Latin; but this unknown countryman of mine +had pronounced it so very badly, that he said it was absolutely +unintelligible. + +The conversation now turned on various theological matters; and among +others on the novel notions of a Dr. Priestly, whom he roundly blamed. I +was not at all disposed to dispute that point with him, and so, +professing with great sincerity, a high esteem for the Church of England, +and great respect and regard for its clergy, I seemed to gain his good +opinion. + +Beguiling the tediousness of the road by such discourse, we were now got, +almost without knowing it, quite to Oxford. + +He told me I should now see one of the finest and most beautiful cities, +not only in England, but in all Europe. All he lamented, was, that on +account of the darkness of the night, I should not immediately see it. + +This really was the case: “And now,” said he, as we entered the town, “I +introduce you into Oxford by one of the finest, the longest, and most +beautiful streets, not only in this city, but in England, and I may +safely add in all Europe.” + +The beauty and the magnificence of the street I could not distinguish; +but of its length I was perfectly sensible by my fatigue; for we still +went on, and still through the longest, the finest, and most beautiful +street in Europe, which seemed to have no end; nor had I any assurance +that I should be able to find a bed for myself in all this famous street. +At length my companion stopped to take leave of me, and said he should +now go to his college. + +“And I,” said I, “will seat myself for the night on this stone bench and +await the morning, as it will be in vain for me, I imagine, to look for +shelter in a house at this time of night.” + +“Seat yourself on a stone!” said my companion, and shook his head. “No, +no! come along with me to a neighbouring ale-house, where it is possible +they mayn’t be gone to bed, and we may yet find company.” We went on a +few houses further, and then knocked at a door. It was then nearly +twelve. They readily let us in; but how great was my astonishment, when, +on being shown into a room on the left, I saw a great number of +clergymen, all with their gowns and bands on, sitting round a large +table, each with his pot of beer before him. My travelling companion +introduced me to them, as a German clergyman, whom he could not +sufficiently praise for my correct pronunciation of the Latin, my +orthodoxy, and my good walking. + +I now saw myself in a moment, as it were, all at once transported into +the midst of a company, all apparently very respectable men, but all +strangers to me. And it appeared to me extraordinary that I should, thus +at midnight, be in Oxford, in a large company of Oxonian clergy, without +well knowing how I had got there. Meanwhile, however, I took all the +pains in my power to recommend myself to my company, and in the course of +conversation, I gave them as good an account as I could of our German +universities, neither denying nor concealing that, now and then, we had +riots and disturbances. “Oh, we are very unruly here, too,” said one of +the clergymen as he took a hearty draught out of his pot of beer, and +knocked on the table with his hand. The conversation now became louder, +more general, and a little confused; they enquired after Mr. Bruns, at +present professor at Helmstadt, and who was known by many of them. + +Among these gentlemen there was one of the name of Clerk, who seemed +ambitious to pass for a great wit, which he attempted by starting sundry +objections to the Bible. I should have liked him better if he had +confined himself to punning and playing on his own name, by telling us +again and again, that he should still be at least a Clerk, even though he +should never become a clergyman. Upon the whole, however, he was, in his +way, a man of some humour, and an agreeable companion. + +Among other objections to the Scriptures, he started this one to my +travelling companion, whose name I now learnt was Maud, that it was said +in the Bible that God was a wine-bibber. On this Mr. Maud fell into a +violent passion, and maintained that it was utterly impossible that any +such passage should be found in the Bible. Another divine, a Mr. Caern +referred us to his absent brother, who had already been forty years in +the church, and must certainly know something of such a passage if it +were in the Bible, but he would venture to lay any wager his brother knew +nothing of it. + +“Waiter! fetch a Bible!” called out Mr. Clerk, and a great family Bible +was immediately brought in, and opened on the table among all the beer +jugs. + +Mr. Clerk turned over a few leaves, and in the book of Judges, 9th +chapter, verse xiii, he read, “Should I leave my wine, which cheereth God +and man?” + +Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, who had before been most violent, now sat as if +struck dumb. A silence of some minutes prevailed, when all at once, the +spirit of revelation seemed to come on me, and I said, “Why, gentlemen, +you must be sensible that it is but an allegorical expression;” and I +added, “how often in the Bible are kings called gods!” + +“Why, yes, to be sure,” said Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, “it is an +allegorical expression; nothing can be more clear; it is a metaphor, and +therefore it is absurd to understand it in a literal sense.” And now +they, in their turn, triumphed over poor Clerk, and drank large draughts +to my health in strong ale; which, as my company seemed to like so much, +I was sorry I could not like. It either intoxicated or stupefied me; and +I do think it overpowers one much sooner than so much wine would. The +conversation now turned on many other different subjects. At last, when +morning drew near, Mr. Maud suddenly exclaimed, “D-n me, I must read +prayers this morning at All-Souls!” D-n me is an abbreviation of G—d d—n +me; which, in England, does not seem to mean more mischief or harm than +any of our or their common expletives in conversation, such as O gemini! +or, The deuce take me! + +Before Mr. Maud went away, he invited me to go and see him in the +morning, and very politely offered himself to show me the curiosities of +Oxford. The rest of the company now also dispersed; and as I had once +(though in so singular a manner) been introduced into so reputable a +society, the people of the house made no difficulty of giving me lodging, +but with great civility showed me a very decent bed-chamber. + +I am almost ashamed to own, that next morning, when I awoke, I had got so +dreadful a headache, from the copious and numerous toasts of my jolly and +reverend friends, that I could not possibly get up; still less could I +wait on Mr. Maud at his college. + +The inn where I was goes by the name of the Mitre. Compared to Windsor, +I here found prince-like attendance. Being, perhaps, a little elevated +the preceding evening, I had in the gaiety, or perhaps in the vanity of +my heart, told the waiter, that he must not think, because I came on +foot, that therefore I should give him less than others gave. I assured +him of the contrary. It was probably not a little owing to this +assurance that I had so much attention shown to me. + +I now determined to stay at least a couple of days at Oxford; it was +necessary and proper, if for no other reason, yet merely that I might +have clean linen. No people are so cleanly as the English, nor so +particular about neat and clean linen. For, one afternoon, my shirt not +having been lately changed, as I was walking through a little street, I +heard two women, who were standing at a door, call after me, “Look at the +gentleman there! a fine gentleman, indeed, who cannot afford even a clean +shirt!” + +I dined below with the family, and a few other persons, and the +conversation in general was agreeable enough. I was obliged to tell them +many wonderful stories (for who are so illiterate or insensible as not to +be delighted with the marvellous!) concerning Germany and the King of +Prussia. They could not sufficiently admire my courage in determining to +travel on foot, although they could not help approving of the motive. At +length, however, it came out, and they candidly owned, that I should not +have been received into their house, had I not been introduced as I was. + +I was now confirmed in my suspicions, that, in England, any person +undertaking so long a journey on foot, is sure to be looked upon and +considered as either a beggar or a vagabond, or some necessitous wretch, +which is a character not much more popular than that of a rogue; so that +I could now easily account for my reception in Windsor and at Nuneham. +But, with all my partiality for this country, it is impossible even in +theory, and much less so in practice, to approve of a system which +confines all the pleasures and benefits of travel to the rich. A poor +peripatetic is hardly allowed even the humble merit of being honest. + +As I still intended to pursue my journey to Derbyshire, I was advised (at +least till I got further into the country) to take a place in a +post-coach. They told me that the further I got from London, the more +reasonable and humble I should find the people; everything would be +cheaper, and everybody more hospitable. This determined me to go in the +post-coach from Oxford to Birmingham; where Mr. Pointer, of London, had +recommended me to a Mr. Fothergill, a merchant there; and from thence to +continue my journey on foot. + +Monday I spent at Oxford, but rather unpleasantly, on account of my +headache. Mr. Maud himself came to fetch me, as he had promised he +would, but I found myself unable to go with him. + +Notwithstanding this, in the afternoon, I took a little walk up a hill, +which lies to the north of Oxford; and from the top of which I could see +the whole city; which did not, however, appear to me nearly so beautiful +and magnificent as Mr. Maud had described it to me during our last +night’s walk. + +The colleges are mostly in the Gothic taste, and much overloaded with +ornaments, and built with grey stone; which, perhaps, while it is new, +looks pretty well, but it has now the most dingy, dirty, and disgusting +appearance that you can possibly imagine. + +Only one of these colleges is in the modern style. The houses of the +city are in general ordinary, in some parts quite miserable; in some +streets they are only one story high, and have shingled roofs. To me +Oxford seemed to have but a dull and gloomy look; and I cannot but wonder +how it ever came to be considered as so fine a city, and next to London. + +I remained on the hill, on which there was a flight of steps that led to +a subterraneous walk, till sunset, and saw several students walking here, +who wore their black gowns over their coloured clothes, and flat square +hats, just like those I had seen worn by the Eton scholars. This is the +general dress of all those who belong to the universities, with the +exception of a very trifling difference, by which persons of high birth +and rank are distinguished. + +It is probably on account of these gowns that the members of the +university are called Gownsmen, to distinguish them from the citizens, +who are called Townsmen; and when you want to mention all the inhabitants +of Oxford together, you say, “the whole town, Gownsmen and Townsmen.” + +This dress, I must own, pleases me far beyond the boots, cockades, and +other frippery, of many of our students. Nor am I less delighted with +the better behaviour and conduct which, in general, does so much credit +to the students of Oxford. + +The next morning Mr. Maud, according to his promise, showed me some of +the things most worthy of notice in Oxford. And first he took me to his +own room in his own college, which was on the ground floor, very low and +dark, and resembled a cell, at least as much as a place of study. The +name of this college is Corpus Christi. He next conducted me to All +Souls’ College, a very elegant building, in which the chapel is +particularly beautiful. Mr. Maud also showed me, over the altar here, a +fine painting of Mengs, at the sight of which he showed far more +sensibility than I thought him possessed of. He said that +notwithstanding he saw that painting almost daily, he never saw it +without being much affected. + +The painting represented Mary Magdalene when she first suddenly sees +Jesus standing before her, and falls at His feet. And in her countenance +pain, joy, grief, in short almost all the strongest of our passions, are +expressed in so masterly a manner, that no man of true taste was ever +tired of contemplating it; the longer it is looked at the more it is +admired. He now also showed me the library of this college, which is +provided with a gallery round the top, and the whole is most admirably +regulated and arranged. Among other things, I here saw a description of +Oxford, with plates to illustrate it: and I cannot help observing what, +though trite, is true, that all these places look much better, and are +far more beautiful on paper, than they appeared to me to be as I looked +at them where they actually stand. + +Afterwards Mr. Maud conducted me to the Bodleian Library, which is not +unworthy of being compared to the Vatican at Rome; and next to the +building which is called the Theatre, and where the public orations are +delivered. This is a circular building with a gallery all round it, +which is furnished with benches one above the other, on which the +doctors, masters of arts, and students sit, and directly opposite to each +other are erected two chairs, or pulpits, from which the disputants +harangue and contend. + +Christ Church and Queen’s College are the most modern, and, I think, +indisputably the best built of all the colleges. Balliol College seems +particularly to be distinguished on account of its antiquity, and its +complete Gothic style of building. + +Mr. Maud told me that a good deal of money might be sometimes earned by +preaching at Oxford; for all the members of a certain standing are +obliged in their turn to preach in the church of the university; but many +of them, when it comes to their turn, prefer the procuring a substitute; +and so not unfrequently pay as high as five or six guineas for a sermon. + +Mr. Maud also told me he had been now eighteen years at this university, +and might be made a doctor whenever he chose it: he was a master of arts, +and according to his own account gave lectures in his college on the +classics. He also did the duty and officiated as curate, occasionally, +in some of the neighbouring villages. Going along the street we met the +English poet laureate, Warton, now rather an elderly man; and yet he is +still the fellow of a college. His greatest pleasure next to poetry is, +as Mr. Maud told me, shooting wild ducks. + +Mr. Maud seemed upon the whole to be a most worthy and philanthropic man. +He told me, that where he now officiated the clerk was dead, and had left +a numerous family in the greatest distress; and that he was going to the +place next day, on purpose to try if he could bring about the election of +the son, a lad about sixteen years of age, in the place of his deceased +father, as clerk, to support a necessitous family. + +At the Mitre, the inn where I lodged, there was hardly a minute in which +some students or others did not call, either to drink, or to amuse +themselves in conversation with the daughter of the landlord, who is not +only handsome, but sensible, and well behaved. + +They often spoke to me much in praise of a German, of the name of +Mitchel, at least they pronounced it so, who had for many years rendered +himself famous as a musician. I was rejoiced to hear one of my +countrymen thus praised by the English; and wished to have paid him a +visit, but I had not the good fortune to find him at home. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + + _Castleton_, _June_ 30_th_. + +BEFORE I tell you anything of the place where I now am, I will proceed +regularly in my narrative, and so begin now where I left off in my last +letter. On Tuesday afternoon Mr. Maud took me to the different walks +about Oxford, and often remarked, that they were not only the finest in +England, but he believed in Europe. I own I do not think he over-rated +their merit. There is one in particular near the river, and close to +some charming meadows, behind Corpus Christi College, which may fairly +challenge the world. + +We here seated ourselves on a bench, and Mr. Maud drew a review from his +pocket, where, among other things, a German book of Professor Beckman’s +was reviewed and applauded. Mr. Maud seemed, on this occasion, to show +some respect for German literature. At length we parted. He went to +fill up the vacancy of the clerk’s place at Dorchester, and I to the +Mitre, to prepare for my departure from Oxford, which took place on +Wednesday morning at three o’clock, in the post-coach. Considering the +pleasing, if not kind attention shown me here, I own I thought my bill +not unreasonable; though to be sure, it made a great hole in my little +purse. + +Within this coach there was another young man, who, though dressed in +black, yet to judge from the cockade in his hat might be an officer. The +outside was quite full with soldiers and their wives. The women of the +lower class here wear a kind of short cloak made of red cloth: but women +in general, from the highest to the lowest, wear hats, which differ from +each other less in fashion than they do in fineness. + +Fashion is so generally attended to among the English women, that the +poorest maid-servant is careful to be in the fashion. They seem to be +particularly so in their hats or bonnets, which they all wear: and they +are in my opinion far more becoming than the very unsightly hoods and +caps which our German women, of the rank of citizens, wear. There is, +through all ranks here, not near so great a distinction between high and +low as there is in Germany. + +I had, during this day, a little headache; which rendered me more silent +and reserved to my company than is either usual in England or natural to +me. The English are taxed, perhaps too hastily, with being shy and +distant to strangers. I do not think this was, even formerly, their true +character; or that any such sentiment is conveyed in Virgil’s +“_Hospitibus feros_.” Be this as it may, the case was here reversed. +The Englishman here spoke to me several times in a very friendly manner, +while I testified not the least inclination to enter into conversation +with him. + +He however owned afterwards that it was this very apparent reserve of +mine that first gained me his good opinion. + +He said he had studied physic, but with no immediate view of practising +it. His intention, he said, was to go to the East Indies, and there, +first, to try his fortune as an officer. And he was now going to +Birmingham, merely to take leave of his three sisters, whom he much +loved, and who were at school there. + +I endeavoured to merit his confidence by telling him in my turn of my +journey on foot through England; and by relating to him a few of the most +remarkable of my adventures. He frankly told me he thought it was +venturing a great deal, yet he applauded the design of my journey, and +did not severely censure my plan. On my asking him why Englishmen, who +were so remarkable for acting up to their own notions and ideas, did not, +now and then, merely to see life in every point of view, travel on foot. +“Oh,” said he, “we are too rich, too lazy, and too proud.” + +And most true it is, that the poorest Englishman one sees, is prouder and +better pleased to expose himself to the danger of having his neck broken +on the outside of a stage, than to walk any considerable distance, though +he might walk ever so much at his ease. I own I was frightened and +distressed when I saw the women, where we occasionally stopped, get down +from the top of the coach. One of them was actually once in much danger +of a terrible fall from the roof, because, just as she was going to +alight, the horses all at once unexpectedly went on. From Oxford to +Birmingham is sixty-two miles; but all that was to be seen between the +two places was entirely lost to me, for I was again mewed up in a +post-coach, and driven along with such velocity from one place to +another, that I seemed to myself as doing nothing less than travelling. + +My companion, however, made me amends in some measure for this loss. He +seemed to be an exceedingly good-tempered and intelligent man; and I felt +in this short time a prepossession in his favour one does not easily form +for an ordinary person. This, I flattered myself, was also the case with +him, and it would mortify me not a little to think he had quite forgotten +me, as I am sure I shall never forget him. + +Just as we had been sometime eagerly conversing about Shakespeare, we +arrived, without either of us having thought of it, at +Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s birthplace, where our coach stopped, +that being the end of one stage. We were still two-and-twenty miles from +Birmingham, and ninety-four from London. I need not tell you what our +feelings were, on thus setting our feet on classic ground. + +It was here that perhaps the greatest genius nature ever produced was +born. Here he first lisped his native tongue; here first conceived the +embryos of those compositions which were afterwards to charm a listening +world; and on these plains the young Hercules first played. And here, +too, in this lowly hut, with a few friends, he happily spent the decline +of his life, after having retired from the great theatre of that busy +world whose manners he had so faithfully portrayed. + +The river Avon is here pretty broad, and a row of neat though humble +cottages, only one storey high, with shingled roofs, are ranged all along +its banks. These houses impressed me strongly with the idea of +patriarchal simplicity and content. + +We went to see Shakespeare’s own house, which, of all the houses at +Stratford I think is now the worst, and one that made the least +appearance. Yet, who would not be proud to be the owner of it? There +now however lived in it only two old people, who show it to strangers for +a trifle, and what little they earn thus is their chief income. + +Shakespeare’s chair, in which he used to sit before the door, was so cut +to pieces that it hardly looked like a chair; for every one that travels +through Stratford cuts off a chip as a remembrance, which he carefully +preserves, and deems a precious relic, I also cut myself a piece of it, +but reverencing Shakespeare as I do, I am almost ashamed to own to you it +was so small that I have lost it, and therefore you will not see it on my +return. + +As we travelled, I observed every spot with attention, fancying to myself +that such or such a spot might be the place where such a genius as +Shakespeare’s first dawned, and received those first impressions from +surrounding nature which are so strongly marked in all his works. The +first impressions of childhood, I knew, were strong and permanent; of +course I made sure of seeing here some images at least of the wonderful +conceptions of this wonderful man. But my imagination misled me, and I +was disappointed; for I saw nothing in the country thereabouts at all +striking, or in any respect particularly beautiful. It was not at all +wild and romantic; but rather distinguished for an air of neatness and +simplicity. + +We arrived at Birmingham about three o’clock in the afternoon. I had +already paid sixteen shillings at Stratford for my place in the coach +from Oxford to Birmingham. At Oxford they had not asked anything of me, +and indeed you are not obliged in general in England, as you are in +Germany, to pay your passage beforehand. + +My companion and myself alighted at the inn where the coach stopped. We +parted with some reluctance, and I was obliged to promise him that, on my +return to London, I would certainly call on him, for which purpose he +gave me his address. His father was Dr. Wilson, a celebrated author in +his particular style of writing. + +I now inquired for the house of Mr. Fothergill, to whom I was +recommended, and I was readily directed to it, but had the misfortune to +learn, at the same time, that this very Mr. Fothergill had died about +eight days before. As, therefore, under these circumstances, my +recommendation to him was likely to be but of little use, I had the less +desire to tarry long at Birmingham, and so, without staying a minute +longer, I immediately inquired the road to Derby, and left Birmingham. +Of this famous manufacturing town, therefore, I can give you no account. + +The road from Birmingham onwards is not very agreeable, being in general +uncommonly sandy. Yet the same evening I reached a little place called +Sutton, where everything, however, appeared to be too grand for me to +hope to obtain lodgings in it, till quite at the end of it I came to a +small inn with the sign of the Swan, under which was written Aulton, +brickmaker. + +This seemed to have something in it that suited me, and therefore I +boldly went into it; and when in I did not immediately, as heretofore, +inquire if I could stay all night there, but asked for a pint of ale. I +own I felt myself disheartened by their calling me nothing but master, +and by their showing me into the kitchen, where the landlady was sitting +at a table and complaining much of the toothache. The compassion I +expressed for her on this account, as a stranger, seemed soon to +recommend me to her favour, and she herself asked me if I would not stay +the night there? To this I most readily assented; and thus I was again +happy in a lodging for another night. + +The company I here met with consisted of a female chimney-sweeper and her +children, who, on my sitting down in the kitchen, soon drank to my +health, and began a conversation with me and the landlady. + +She related to us her history, which I am not ashamed to own I thought +not uninteresting. She had married early, but had the hard luck to be +soon deprived of her husband, by his being pressed as a soldier. She +neither saw nor heard of him for many years, so concluded he was dead. +Thus destitute, she lived seven years as a servant in Ireland, without +any one’s knowing that she was married. During this time her husband, +who was a chimney-sweeper, came back to England and settled at Lichfield, +resumed his old trade, and did well in it. As soon as he was in good +circumstances, he everywhere made inquiry for his wife, and at last found +out where she was, and immediately fetched her from Ireland. There +surely is something pleasing in this constancy of affection in a +chimney-sweeper. She told us, with tears in her eyes, in what a style of +grandeur he had conducted her into Lichfield; and how, in honour to her, +he made a splendid feast on the occasion. At this same Lichfield, which +is only two miles from Sutton, and through which she said the road lay +which I was to travel to-morrow, she still lived with this same excellent +husband, where they were noted for their industry, where everybody +respected them, and where, though in the lowest sphere, they are passing +through life neither uselessly nor unhappily. + +The landlady, during her absence, told me as in confidence, that this +chimney-sweeper’s husband, as meanly as I might fancy she now appeared, +was worth a thousand pounds, and that without reckoning in their plate +and furniture, that he always wore his silver watch, and that when he +passed through Sutton, and lodged there, he paid like a nobleman. + +She further remarked that the wife was indeed rather low-lived; but that +the husband was one of the best-behaved, politest, and civilest men in +the world. I had myself taken notice that this same dingy companion of +mine had something singularly coarse and vulgar in her pronunciation. +The word old, for example, she sounded like auld. In other respects, I +had not yet remarked any striking variety or difference from the +pronunciation of Oxford or London. + +To-morrow the chimney-sweeper, said she, her husband, would not be at +home, but if I came back by the way of Lichfield, she would take the +liberty to request the honour of a visit, and to this end she told me her +name and the place of her abode. + +At night the rest of the family, a son and daughter of the landlady, came +home, and paid all possible attention to their sick mother. I supped +with the family, and they here behaved to me as if we had already lived +many years together. + +Happening to mention that I was, if not a scholar, yet a student, the son +told me there was at Sutton a celebrated grammar-school, where the +school-master received two hundred pounds a year settled salary, besides +the income arising from the scholars. + +And this was only in a village. I thought, and not without some shame +and sorrow, of our grammar-schools in Germany, and the miserable pay of +the masters. + +When I paid my reckoning the next morning, I observed the uncommon +difference here and at Windsor, Nettlebed, and Oxford. At Oxford I was +obliged to pay for my supper, bed, and breakfast at least three +shillings, and one to the waiter. I here paid for my supper, bed, and +breakfast only one shilling, and to the daughter, whom I was to consider +as chambermaid, fourpence; for which she very civilly thanked me, and +gave me a written recommendation to an inn at Lichfield, where I should +be well lodged, as the people in Lichfield were, in general, she said, +very proud. This written recommendation was a masterpiece of +orthography, and showed that in England, as well as elsewhere, there are +people who write entirely from the ear, and as they pronounce. In +English, however, it seems to look particularly odd, but perhaps that may +be the case in all languages that are not native. + +I took leave here, as one does of good friends, with a certain promise +that on my return I would certainly call on them again. + +At noon I got to Lichfield, an old-fashioned town with narrow dirty +streets, where for the first time I saw round panes of glass in the +windows. The place to mime wore an unfriendly appearance; I therefore +made no use of my recommendation, but went straight through, and only +bought some bread at a baker’s, which I took along with me. + +At night I reached Burton, where the famous Burton ale is brewed. By +this time I felt myself pretty well tired, and therefore proposed to stay +the night here. But my courage failed me, and I dropped the resolution +immediately on my entering the town. The houses and everything else +seemed to wear as grand an appearance, almost, as if I had been still in +London. And yet the manners of some of its inhabitants were so +thoroughly rustic and rude, that I saw them actually pointing at me with +their fingers as a foreigner. And now, to complete my chagrin and +mortification, I came to a long street, where everybody on both sides of +the way were at their doors, and actually made me run the gauntlet +through their inquiring looks. Some even hissed at me as I passed along. +All my arguments to induce me to pluck up my courage, such as the +certainty that I should never see these people again nor they me, were of +no use. Burton became odious and almost insupportable to me; and the +street appeared as long and tired me as much, as if I had walked a mile. +This strongly-marked contemptuous treatment of a stranger, who was +travelling through their country merely from the respect he bore it, I +experienced nowhere but at Burton. + +How happy did I feel when I again found myself out of their town, +although at that moment I did not know where I should find a lodging for +the night, and was, besides, excessively tired. But I pursued my +journey, and still kept in the road to Derby, along a footpath which I +knew to be right. It led across a very pleasant mead, the hedges of +which were separated by stiles, over which I was often obliged to +clamber. When I had walked some distance without meeting with an inn on +the road, and it had already begun to be dark, I at last sat me down near +a small toll-house, or a turnpike-gate, in order to rest myself, and also +to see whether the man at the turnpike could and would lodge me. + +After I had sat here a considerable time, a farmer came riding by, and +asked me where I wanted to go? I told him I was so tired that I could go +no farther. On this the good-natured and truly hospitable man, of his +own accord and without the least distrust, offered to take me behind him +on his horse and carry me to a neighbouring inn, where he said I might +stay all night. + +The horse was a tall one, and I could not easily get up. The +turnpike-man, who appeared to be quite decrepid and infirm, on this came +out. I took it for granted, however, that he who appeared to have hardly +sufficient strength to support himself could not help me. This poor +looking, feeble old man, however, took hold of me with one arm, and +lifted me with a single jerk upon the horse so quick and so alertly that +it quite astonished me. + +And now I trotted on with my charming farmer, who did not ask me one +single impertinent question, but set me down quietly at the inn, and +immediately rode away to his own village, which lay to the left. + +This inn was called the Bear, and not improperly; for the landlord went +about and growled at his people just like a bear, so that at first I +expected no favourable reception. I endeavoured to gentle him a little +by asking for a mug of ale, and once or twice drinking to him. This +succeeded; he soon became so very civil and conversable, that I began to +think him quite a pleasant fellow. This device I had learnt of the +“Vicar of Wakefield,” who always made his hosts affable by inviting them +to drink with him. It was an expedient that suited me also in another +point of view, as the strong ale of England did not at all agree with me. + +This innkeeper called me sir; and he made his people lay a separate table +for himself and me; for he said he could see plainly I was a gentleman. + +In our chat, we talked much of George the Second, who appeared to be his +favourite king, much more so than George the Third. And among others +things, we talked of the battle at Dettingen, of which he knew many +particulars. I was obliged also in my turn to tell him stories of our +great King of Prussia, and his numerous armies, and also what sheep sold +for in Prussia. After we had been thus talking some time, chiefly on +political matters, he all at once asked me if I could blow the French +horn? This he supposed I could do, only because I came from Germany; for +he said he remembered, when he was a boy, a German had once stopped at +the inn with his parents who blew the French horn extremely well. He +therefore fancied this was a talent peculiar to the Germans. + +I removed this error, and we resumed our political topics, while his +children and servants at some distance listened with great respect to our +conversation. + +Thus I again spent a very agreeable evening; and when I had breakfasted +in the morning, my bill was not more than it had been at Sutton. I at +length reached the common before Derby on Friday morning. The air was +mild, and I seemed to feel myself uncommonly cheerful and happy. About +noon the romantic part of the country began to open upon me. I came to a +lofty eminence, where all at once I saw a boundless prospect of hills +before me, behind which fresh hills seemed always to arise, and to be +infinite. + +The ground now seemed undulatory, and to rise and fall like waves; when +at the summit of the rise I seemed to be first raised aloft, and had an +extensive view all around me, and the next moment, when I went down the +hill, I lost it. + +In the afternoon I saw Derby in the vale before me, and I was now an +hundred and twenty-six miles from London. Derby is but a small, and not +very considerable town. It was market-day when I got there, and I was +obliged to pass through a crowd of people: but there was here no such +odious curiosity, no offensive staring, as at Burton. At this place too +I took notice that I began to be always civilly bowed to by the children +of the villages through which I passed. + +From Derby to the baths of Matlock, which is one of the most romantic +situations, it was still fifteen miles. On my way thither, I came to a +long and extensive village, which I believe was called Duffield. They +here at least did not show me into the kitchen, but into the parlour; and +I dined on cold victuals. + +The prints and pictures which I have generally seen at these inns are, I +think, almost always prints of the royal family, oftentimes in a group, +where the king, as the father of the family, assembles his children +around him; or else I have found a map of London, and not seldom the +portrait of the King of Prussia; I have met with it several times. You +also sometimes see some of the droll prints of Hogarth. The heat being +now very great, I several times in this village heard the commiserating +exclamation of “Good God Almighty!” by which the people expressed their +pity for me, as being a poor foot passenger. + +At night I again stopped at an inn on the road, about five miles from +Matlock. I could easily have reached Matlock, but I wished rather to +reserve the first view of the country till the next day than to get there +when it was dark. + +But I was not equally fortunate in this inn, as in the two former. The +kitchen was full of farmers, among whom I could not distinguish the +landlord, whose health I should otherwise immediately have drank. It is +true I heard a country girl who was also in the kitchen, as often as she +drank say, “Your health, gentlemen all!” But I do not know how it was, I +forgot to drink any one’s health, which I afterwards found was taken much +amiss. The landlord drank twice to my health sneeringly, as if to +reprimand me for my incivility; and then began to join the rest in +ridiculing me, who almost pointed at me with their fingers. I was thus +obliged for a time to serve the farmers as a laughing-stock, till at +length one of them compassionately said, “Nay, nay, we must do him no +harm, for he is a stranger.” The landlord, I suppose, to excuse himself, +as if he thought he had perhaps before gone too far said, “Ay, God forbid +we should hurt any stranger,” and ceased his ridicule; but when I was +going to drink his health, he slighted and refused my attention, and told +me, with a sneer, all I had to do was to seat myself in the +chimney-corner, and not trouble myself about the rest of the world. The +landlady seemed to pity me, and so she led me into another room where I +could be alone, saying, “What wicked people!” + +I left this unfriendly roof early the next morning, and now quickly +proceeded to Matlock. + +The extent of my journey I had now resolved should be the great cavern +near Castleton, in the high Peak of Derbyshire. It was about twenty +miles beyond Matlock. + +The country here had quite a different appearance from that at Windsor +and Richmond. Instead of green meadows and pleasant hills, I now saw +barren mountains and lofty rocks; instead of fine living hedges, the +fields and pasture lands here were fenced with a wall of grey stone; and +of this very same stone, which is here everywhere to be found in plenty, +all the houses are built in a very uniform and patriarchal manner, +inasmuch as the rough stones are almost without any preparation placed +one upon another, and compose four walls, so that in case of necessity, a +man might here without much trouble build himself a house. At Derby the +houses seem to be built of the same stone. + +The situation of Matlock itself surpassed every idea I had formed of it. +On the right were some elegant houses for the bathing company, and lesser +cottages suspended like birds’ nests in a high rock; to the left, deep in +the bottom, there was a fine bold river, which was almost hid from the +eye by a majestic arch formed by high trees, which hung over it. A +prodigious stone wall extended itself above a mile along its border, and +all along there is a singularly romantic and beautiful secret walk, +sheltered and adorned by many beautiful shrubs. + +The steep rock was covered at the top with green bushes, and now and then +a sheep, or a cow, separated from the grazing flock, came to the edge of +the precipice, and peeped over it. + +I have got, in Milton’s “Paradise Lost,” which I am reading thoroughly +through, just to the part where he describes Paradise, when I arrived +here and the following passage, which I read at the brink of the river, +had a most striking and pleasing effect on me. The landscape here +described was as exactly similar to that I saw before me, as if the poet +had taken it from hence + + “—delicious Paradise, + Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green, + As with a rural mound, the champion head + Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides + With thicket overgrown, grotesque and wild, + Access denied.”—_Book_ IV. v. 132. + +From Matlock Baths you go over Matlock Bridge, to the little town of +Matlock itself, which, in reality, scarcely deserves the name of a +village, as it consists of but a few and miserable houses. There is +here, on account of the baths, a number of horses and carriages, and a +great thoroughfare. From hence I came through some villages to a small +town of the name of Bakewell. The whole country in this part is hilly +and romantic. Often my way led me, by small passes, over astonishing +eminences, where, in the deep below me, I saw a few huts or cottages +lying. The fencing of the fields with grey stone gave the whole a wild +and not very promising appearance. The hills were in general not wooded, +but naked and barren; and you saw the flocks at a distance grazing on +their summit. + +As I was coming through one of the villages, I heard a great farmer’s boy +eagerly ask another if he did not think I was a Frenchman. It seemed as +if he had been waiting some time to see the wonder; for, he spoke as +though his wish was now accomplished. + +When I was past Bakewell, a place far inferior to Derby, I came by the +side of a broad river, to a small eminence, where a fine cultivated field +lay before me. This field, all at once, made an indescribable and very +pleasing impression on me, which at first, I could not account for; till +I recollected having seen, in my childhood, near the village where I was +educated, a situation strikingly similar to that now before me here in +England. + +This field, as if it had been in Germany, was not enclosed with hedges, +but every spot in it was uninterruptedly diversified with all kinds of +crops and growths of different green and yellowish colours, which gave +the whole a most pleasing effect; but besides this large field, the +general view of the country, and a thousand other little circumstances +which I cannot now particularly enumerate, served to bring back to my +recollection the years of my youth. + +Here I rested myself a while, and when I was going on again I thought of +the place of my residence, on all my acquaintances, and not a little on +you, my dearest friend, and imagined what you would think and say, if you +were to see your friend thus wandering here all alone, totally unknown, +and in a foreign land. And at that moment I first seriously felt the +idea of distance, and the thought that I was now in England, so very far +from all I loved, or who loved me, produced in me such sensations as I +have not often felt. + +It was perhaps the same with you, my dearest friend, when on our journey +to Hamburg we drove from Perlsbeg, to your birthplace, the village of +Boberow; where, among the farmers, you again found your own playmates, +one of whom was now become the bailiff of the place. On your asking them +whether they knew you, one and all of them answered so heartily, “O, yes, +yes—why, your are Master Frederic.” The pedantic school-master, you will +remember, was not so frank. He expressed himself in the stiff town +phrase of, “He had not the honour of knowing you, as during your +residence in that village, when a child, he had not been _in loco_.” + +I now came through a little place of the name of Ashford, and wished to +reach the small village of Wardlow, which was only three miles distant, +when two men came after me, at a distance, whom I had already seen at +Matlock, who called to me to wait for them. These were the only foot +passengers since Mr. Maud, who had offered to walk with me. + +The one was a saddler, and wore a short brown jacket and an apron, with a +round hat. The other was very decently dressed, but a very silent man, +whereas the saddler was quite talkative. + +I listened with astonishment when I heard him begin to speak of Homer, of +Horace, and of Virgil; and still more when he quoted several passages, by +memory, from each of these authors, pronouncing the words, and laying his +emphasis, with as much propriety as I could possibly have expected, had +he been educated at Cambridge or at Oxford. He advised me not to go to +Wardlow, where I should find bad accommodations, but rather a few miles +to Tideswell, where he lived. This name is, by a singular abbreviation, +pronounced Tidsel, the same as Birmingham is called by the common people +Brummidgeham. + +We halted at a small ale-house on the road-side, where the saddler +stopped to drink and talk, and from whence he was in no haste to depart. +He had the generosity and honour, however, to pay my share of the +reckoning, because, as he said, he had brought me hither. + +At no great distance from the house we came to a rising ground, where my +philosophical saddler made me observe a prospect, which was perhaps the +only one of the kind in England. Below us was a hollow, not unlike a +huge kettle, hollowed out of the surrounding mass of earth; and at the +bottom of it a little valley, where the green meadow was divided by a +small rivulet, that ran in serpentine windings, its banks graced with the +most inviting walks; behind a small winding, there is just seen a house +where one of the most distinguished inhabitants of this happy vale, a +great philosopher, lives retired, dedicating almost all his time to his +favourite studies. He has transplanted a number of foreign plants into +his grounds. My guide fell into almost a poetic rapture as he pointed +out to me the beauties of this vale, while our third companion, who grew +tired, became impatient at our tediousness. + +We were now led by a steep road to the vale, through which we passed, and +then ascended again among the hills on the other side. + +Not far from Tideswell our third companion left us, as he lived in a +neighbouring place. As we now at length saw Tideswell lying before us in +the vale, the saddler began to give me an account of his family, adding, +by way of episode, that he never quarrelled with his wife, nor had ever +once threatened her with his fist, much less, ever lifted it against her. +For his own sake, he said, he never called her names, nor gave her the +lie. I must here observe, that it is the greatest offence you can give +any one in England to say to him, _you lie_. + +To be called a _liar_ is a still greater affront, and you _are a damned +liar_, is the very acme of vulgar abuse. + +Just as in Germany, no one will bear the name of a _scoundrel_, or +_knave_, or as in all quarrels, the bestowing such epithets on our +adversary is the signal for fighting, so the term of a _liar_ in England +is the most offensive, and is always resented by blows. A man would +never forgive himself, nor be forgiven, who could bear to be called a +_liar_. + +Our Jackey in London once looked at me with astonishment, on my happening +to say to him in a joke, you _are a liar_. I assure you I had much to do +before I could pacify him. + +If one may form a judgment of the character of the whole nation, from +such little circumstances as this, I must say this rooted hatred of the +word liar appears to me to be no bad trait in the English. + +But to return to my travelling companion, who further told me that he was +obliged to earn his livelihood, at some distance from home, and that he +was now returning for the first time, for these two months, to his +family. + +He showed me a row of trees near the town which he said his father had +planted, and which, therefore, he never could look at but with emotion, +though he passed them often as he went backwards and forwards on his +little journeys to and from his birthplace. His father, he added, had +once been a rich man, but had expended all his fortune to support one +son. Unfortunately for himself as well as his family, his father had +gone to America and left the rest of his children poor, notwithstanding +which, his memory was still dear to him, and he was always affected by +the sight of these trees. + +Tideswell consists of two rows of low houses, built of rough grey stone. +My guide, immediately on our entrance into the place, bade me take notice +of the church, which was very handsome, and notwithstanding its age, had +still some pretensions to be considered as an edifice built in the modern +taste. + +He now asked me whether he should show me to a great inn or to a cheap +one, and as I preferred the latter, he went with me himself to a small +public-house, and very particularly recommended me to their care as his +fellow-traveller, and a clever man not without learning. + +The people here also endeavoured to accommodate me most magnificently, +and for this purpose gave me some toasted cheese, which was Cheshire +cheese roasted and half melted at the fire. This, in England it seems, +is reckoned good eating, but, unfortunately for me, I could not touch a +bit of it; I therefore invited my landlord to partake of it, and he +indeed seemed to feast on it. As I neither drank brandy nor ale, he told +me I lived far too sparingly for a foot traveller; he wondered how I had +strength to walk so well and so far. + +I avail myself of this opportunity to observe that the English innkeepers +are in general great ale drinkers, and for this reason most of them are +gross and corpulent; in particular they are plump and rosy in their +faces. I once heard it said of one of them, that the extravasated claret +in his phiz might well remind one, as Falstaff says of Bardolph, of +hell-fire. + +The next morning my landlady did me the honour to drink coffee with me, +but helped me very sparingly to milk and sugar. It was Sunday, and I +went with my landlord to a barber, on whose shop was written “Shaving for +a penny.” There were a great many inhabitants assembled there, who took +me for a gentleman, on account, I suppose, of my hat, which I had bought +in London for a guinea, and which they all admired. I considered this as +a proof that pomp and finery had not yet become general thus far from +London. + +You frequently find in England, at many of the houses of the common +people, printed papers, with sundry apt and good moral maxims and rules +fastened against the room door, just as we find them in Germany. On such +wretched paper some of the most delightful and the finest sentiments may +be read, such as would do honour to any writer of any country. + +For instance, I read among other things this golden rule on such an +ordinary printed paper stuck against a room door, “Make no comparisons;” +and if you consider how many quarrels, and how much mischief arise in the +world from odious comparisons of the merits of one with the merits of +another, the most delightful lessons of morality are contained in the few +words of the above-mentioned rule. + +A man to whom I gave sixpence conducted me out of the town to the road +leading to Castleton, which was close to a wall of stones confusedly +heaped one upon another, as I have before described. The whole country +was hilly and rough, and the ground covered with brown heath. Here and +there some sheep were feeding. + +I made a little digression to a hill to the left, where I had a prospect +awfully beautiful, composed almost entirely of naked rocks, far and near, +among which, those that were entirely covered with black heath made a +most tremendous appearance. + +I was now a hundred and seventy miles from London, when I ascended one of +the highest hills, and all at once perceived a beautiful vale below me, +which was traversed by rivers and brooks and enclosed on all sides by +hills. In this vale lay Castleton, a small town with low houses, which +takes its name from an old castle, whose ruins are still to be seen here. + +A narrow path, which wound itself down the side of the rock, led me +through the vale into the street of Castleton, where I soon found an inn, +and also soon dined. After dinner I made the best of my way to the +cavern. + +A little rivulet, which runs through the middle of the town, led me to +its entrance. + +I stood here a few moments, full of wonder and astonishment at the +amazing height of the steep rock before me, covered on each side with ivy +and other shrubs. At its summit are the decayed wall and towers of an +ancient castle which formerly stood on this rock, and at its foot the +monstrous aperture or mouth to the entrance of the cavern, where it is +pitch dark when one looks down even at mid-day. + +As I was standing here full of admiration, I perceived, at the entrance +of the cavern, a man of a rude and rough appearance, who asked me if I +wished to see the Peak, and the echo strongly reverberated his coarse +voice. + +Answering as I did in the affirmative, he next further asked me if I +should want to be carried to the other side of the stream, telling me at +the same time what the sum would be which I must pay for it. + +This man had, along with his black stringy hair and his dirty and +tattered clothes, such a singularly wild and infernal look, that he +actually struck me as a real Charon. His voice, and the questions he +asked me, were not of a kind to remove this notion, so that, far from its +requiring any effort of imagination, I found it not easy to avoid +believing that, at length, I had actually reached Avernus, was about to +cross Acheron, and to be ferried by Charon. + +I had no sooner agreed to his demand, than he told me all I had to do was +boldly to follow him, and thus we entered the cavern. + +To the left, in the entrance of the cavern, lay the trunk of a tree that +had been cut down, on which several of the boys of the town were playing. + +Our way seemed to be altogether on a descent, though not steep, so that +the light which came in at the mouth of the cavern near the entrance +gradually forsook us, and when we had gone forward a few steps farther, I +was astonished by a sight which, of all other, I here the least expected. +I perceived to the right, in the hollow of the cavern, a whole +subterranean village, where the inhabitants, on account of its being +Sunday, were resting from their work, and with happy and cheerful looks +were sitting at the doors of their huts along with their children. + +We had scarcely passed these small subterranean houses when I perceived a +number of large wheels, on which on week days these human moles, the +inhabitants of the cavern, make ropes. + +I fancied I here saw the wheel of Ixion, and the incessant labour of the +Danaides. + +The opening through which the light came seemed, as we descended, every +moment to become less and less, and the darkness at every step to +increase, till at length only a few rays appeared, as if darting through +a crevice, and just tinging the small clouds of smoke which, at dusk, +raised themselves to the mouth of the cavern. + +This gradual growth, or increase of darkness, awakens in a contemplative +mind a soft melancholy. As you go down the gentle descent of the cavern, +you can hardly help fancying the moment is come when, without pain or +grief, the thread of life is about to be snapped; and that you are now +going thus quietly to that land of peace where trouble is no more. + +At length the great cavern in the rock closed itself, in the same manner +as heaven and earth seem to join each other, when we came to a little +door, where an old woman came out of one of the huts, and brought two +candles, of which we each took one. + +My guide now opened the door, which completely shut out the faint +glimmering of light, which, till then, it was still possible to perceive, +and led us to the inmost centre of this dreary temple of old Chaos and +Night, as if, till now, we had only been traversing the outer courts. +The rock was here so low, that we were obliged to stoop very much for +some few steps in order to get through; but how great was my +astonishment, when we had passed this narrow passage and again stood +upright, at once to perceive, as well as the feeble light of our candles +would permit, the amazing length, breadth, and height of the cavern; +compared to which the monstrous opening through which we had already +passed was nothing! + +After we had wandered here more than an hour, as beneath a dark and dusky +sky, on a level, sandy soil, the rock gradually lowered itself, and we +suddenly found ourselves on the edge of a broad river, which, from the +glimmering of our candles amid the total darkness, suggested sundry +interesting reflections. To the side of this river a small boat was +moored, with some straw in its bottom. Into this boat my guide desired +me to step, and lay myself down in it quite flat; because, as he said, +towards the middle of the river, the rock would almost touch the water. + +When I had laid myself down as directed, he himself jumped into the +water, and drew the boat after him. + +All around us was one still, solemn, and deadly silence; and as the boat +advanced, the rock seemed to stoop, and come nearer and nearer to us, +till at length it nearly touched my face; and as I lay, I could hardly +hold the candle upright. I seemed to myself to be in a coffin rather +than in a boat, as I had no room to stir hand or foot till we had passed +this frightful strait, and the rock rose again on the other side, where +my guide once more handed me ashore. + +The cavern was now become, all at once, broad and high: and then suddenly +it was again low and narrow. + +I observed on both sides as we passed along a prodigious number of great +and small petrified plants and animals, which, however, we could not +examine, unless we had been disposed to spend some days in the cavern. + +And thus we arrived at the opposite side, at the second river or stream, +which, however, was not so broad as the first, as one may see across it +to the other side; across this stream my guide carried me on his +shoulders, because there was here no boat to carry us over. + +From thence we only went a few steps farther, when we came to a very +small piece of water which extended itself lengthways, and led us to the +end of the cavern. + +The path along the edge of this water was wet and slippery, and sometimes +so very narrow, that one can hardly set one foot before the other. + +Notwithstanding, I wandered with pleasure on this subterranean shore, and +was regaling myself with the interesting contemplation of all these +various wonderful objects, in this land of darkness and shadow of death, +when, all at once, something like music at a distance sounded in mine +ears. + +I instantly stopped, full of astonishment, and eagerly asked my guide +what this might mean? He answered, “Only have patience, and you shall +soon see.” + +But as we advanced, the sounds of harmony seemed to die away; the noise +became weaker and weaker; and at length it seemed to sink into a gentle +hissing or hum, like distant drops of falling rain. + +And how great was my amazement when, ere long, I actually saw and felt a +violent shower of rain falling from the rock, as from a thick cloud, +whose drops, which now fell on our candles, had caused that same +melancholy sound which I had heard at a distance. + +This was what is here called a mizzling rain, which fell from the ceiling +or roof of the cavern, through the veins of the rock. + +We did not dare to approach too near with our candles, as they might +easily have been extinguished by the falling drops; and so we perhaps +have been forced to seek our way back in vain. + +We continued our march therefore along the side of the water, and often +saw on the sides large apertures in the rock, which seemed to be new or +subordinate caverns, all which we passed without looking into. At length +my guide prepared me for one of the finest sights we had yet seen, which +we should now soon behold. + +And we had hardly gone on a few paces, when we entered what might easily +have been taken for a majestic temple, with lofty arches, supported by +beautiful pillars, formed by the plastic hand of some ingenious artist. + +This subterranean temple, in the structure of which no human hand had +borne a part, appeared to me at that moment to surpass all the most +stupendous buildings in the world, in point of regularity, magnificence, +and beauty. + +Full of admiration and reverence, here, even in the inmost recesses of +nature, I saw the majesty of the Creator displayed; and before I quitted +this temple, here, in this solemn silence and holy gloom, I thought it +would be a becoming act of true religion to adore, as I cordially did, +the God of nature. + +We now drew near the end of our journey. Our faithful companion, the +water, guided us through the remainder of the cavern, where the rock is +arched for the last time, and then sinks till it touches the water, which +here forms a semicircle, and thus the cavern closes, so that no mortal +can go one step farther. + +My guide here again jumped into the water, swam a little way under the +rock, and then came back quite wet, to show me that it was impossible to +go any further, unless this rock could be blown up with powder, and a +second cavern opened. I now thought all we had to do was to return the +nearest way; but there were new difficulties still to encounter, and new +scenes to behold still more beautiful than any I had yet seen. + +My guide now turned and went back towards the left, where I followed him +through a large opening in the rock. + +And here he first asked me if I could determine to creep a considerable +distance through the rock, where it nearly touched the ground. Having +consented to do so, he told me I had only to follow him, warning me at +the same time to take great care of my candle. + +Thus we crept on our hands and feet, on the wet and muddy ground, through +the opening in the rock, which was often scarcely large enough for us to +get through with our bodies. + +When at length we had got through this troublesome passage, I saw in the +cavern a steep hill, which was so high that it seemed to lose itself as +in a cloud, in the summit of the rock. + +This hill was so wet and slippery, that as soon as I attempted to ascend, +I fell down. My guide, however, took hold of my hand and told me I had +only resolutely to follow him. + +We now ascended such an amazing height, and there were such precipices on +each side, that it makes me giddy even now when I think of it. + +When we at length had gained the summit, where the hill seemed to lose +itself in the rock, my guide placed me where I could stand firm, and told +me to stay there quietly. In the meantime he himself went down the hill +with his candle, and left me alone. + +I lost sight of him for some moments, but at length I perceived, not him, +indeed, but his candle, quite in the bottom, from whence it seemed to +shine like a bright and twinkling star. + +After I had enjoyed this indescribably beautiful sight for some time, my +guide came back, and carried me safely down the hill again on his +shoulders. And as I now stood below, he went up and let his candle shine +again through an opening of the rock, while I covered mine with my hand; +and it was now as if on a dark night a bright star shone down upon me, a +sight which, in point of beauty, far surpassed all that I had ever seen. + +Our journey was now ended, and we returned, not without trouble and +difficulty, through the narrow passage. We again entered the temple we +had a short time before left; again heard the pattering of the rain, +which sounded as rain when we were near it, but which at a distance +seemed a sonorous, dull, and melancholy hum; and now again we returned +across the quiet streams through the capacious entrance of the cavern to +the little door, where we had before taken our leave of daylight, which, +after so long a darkness, we now again hailed with joy. + +Before my guide opened the door, he told me I should now have a view of a +sight that would surpass all the foregoing. I found that he was in the +right, for when he had only half opened the door, it really seemed as if +I was looking into Elysium. + +The day seemed to be gradually breaking, and night and darkness to have +vanished. At a distance you again just saw the smoke of the cottages, +and then the cottages themselves; and as we ascended we saw the boys +still playing around the hewn trunk, till at length the reddish purple +stripes in the sky faintly appeared through the mouth of the hole; yet, +just as we came out, the sun was setting in the west. + +Thus had I spent nearly the whole afternoon till it was quite evening in +the cavern; and when I looked at myself, I was, as to my dress, not much +unlike my guide; my shoes scarcely hung to my feet, they were so soft and +so torn by walking so long on the damp sand, and the hard pointed stones. + +I paid no more than half-a-crown for seeing all that I had seen, with a +trifle to my guide; for it seems he does not get the half-crown, but is +obliged to account for it to his master, who lives very comfortably on +the revenue he derives from this cavern, and is able to keep a man to +show it to strangers. + +When I came home I sent for a shoemaker. There was one who lived just +opposite; and he immediately came to examine my shoes. He told me he +could not sufficiently wonder at the badness of the work, for they were +shoes I had brought from Germany. Notwithstanding this, he undertook, as +he had no new ones ready, to mend them for me as well as he could. This +led me to make a very agreeable acquaintance with this shoemaker; for +when I expressed to him my admiration of the cavern, it pleased him +greatly that in so insignificant a place as Castleton there should be +anything which could inspire people with astonishment, who came from such +distant countries; and thereupon offered to take a walk with me, to show +me, at no great distance, the famous mountain called Mam Tor, which is +reckoned among the things of most note in Derbyshire. + +This mountain is covered with verdure on its summit and sides; but at the +end it is a steep precipice. The middle part does not, like other +mountains, consist of rock, but of a loose earth, which gives way, and +either rolls from the top of the precipice in little pieces, or tears +itself loose in large masses, and falls with a thundering crash, thus +forming a hill on its side which is continually increasing. + +From these circumstances probably is derived the name of Mam Tor, which +literally signifies Mother Hill; for Tor is either an abbreviation of, or +the old word for, Tower, and means not only a lofty building, but any +eminence. Mam is a familiar term, that obtains in all languages, for +Mother; and this mountain, like a mother, produces several other small +hills. + +The inhabitants here have a superstitious notion that this mountain, +notwithstanding its daily loss, never decreases, but always keeps its +own, and remains the same. + +My companion told me a shocking history of an inhabitant of Castleton who +laid a wager that he would ascend this steep precipice. + +As the lower part is not quite so steep, but rather slanting upwards, he +could get good hold in this soft loose earth, and clambered up, without +looking round. At length he had gained more than half the ascent, and +was just at the part where it projects and overlooks its basis. From +this astonishing height the unfortunate man cast down his eyes, whilst +the threatening point of the rock hung over him, with tottering masses of +earth. + +He trembled all over, and was just going to relinquish his hold, not +daring to move backwards or forwards; in this manner he hung for some +time between heaven and earth, surrounded by despair. However, his +sinews would bear it no longer, and therefore, in an effort of despair, +he once more collected all his strength and got hold of first one loose +stone, and then another, all of which would have failed him had he not +immediately caught hold of another. By these means, however, at length, +to his own, as well as to the astonishment of all the spectators, he +avoided almost instant and certain death, safely gained the summit of the +hill, and won his wager. + +I trembled as I heard this relation, seeing the mountain and the +precipice in question so near to me, I could not help figuring to myself +the man clambering up it. + +Not far from hence is Elden Hole, a cavity or pit, or hole in the earth, +of such a monstrous depth, that if you throw in a pebble stone, and lay +your ear to the edge of the hole, you hear it falling for a long time. + +As soon as it comes to the bottom it emits a sound as if some one were +uttering a loud sigh. The first noise it makes on its being first parted +with affects the ear like a subterranean thunder. This rumbling or +thundering noise continues for some time, and then decreases as the stone +falls against first one hard rock and then another at a greater and a +greater depth, and at length, when it has for some time been falling, the +noise stops with a kind of whizzing or a hissing murmur. The people have +also a world of superstitious stories relating to this place, one of +which is that some person once threw into it a goose, which appeared +again at two miles’ distance in the great cavern I have already +mentioned, quite stripped of its feathers. But I will not stuff my +letters with many of these fabulous histories. + +They reckon that they have in Derbyshire seven wonders of nature, of +which this Elden Hole, the hill of Mam Tor, and the great cavern I have +been at are the principal. + +The remaining four wonders are Pool’s Hole, which has some resemblance to +this that I have seen, as I am told, for I did not see it; next St. +Anne’s Well, where there are two springs which rise close to each other, +the one of which is boiling hot, the other as cold as ice; the next is +Tide’s Well, not far from the town of that name through which I passed. +It is a spring or well, which in general flows or runs underground +imperceptibly, and then all at once rushes forth with a mighty rumbling +or subterranean noise, which is said to have something musical in it, and +overflows its banks; lastly Chatsworth, a palace or seat belonging to the +Dukes of Devonshire, at the foot of a mountain whose summit is covered +with eternal snow, and therefore always gives one the idea of winter, at +the same time that the most delightful spring blooms at its foot. I can +give you no further description of these latter wonders, as I only know +them by the account given me by others. They were the subjects with +which my guide, the shoemaker, entertained me during our walk. + +While this man was showing me everything within his knowledge that he +thought most interesting, he often expressed his admiration on thinking +how much of the world I had already seen; and the idea excited in him so +lively a desire to travel, that I had much to do to reason him out of it. +He could not help talking of it the whole evening, and again and again +protested that, had he not got a wife and child, he would set off in the +morning at daybreak along with me; for here in Castleton there is but +little to be earned by the hardest labour or even genius. Provisions are +not cheap, and in short, there is no scope for exertion. This honest man +was not yet thirty. + +As we returned, he wished yet to show me the lead mines, but it was too +late. Yet, late as it was, he mended my shoes the same evening, and I +must do him the justice to add in a very masterly manner. + +But I am sorry to tell you I have brought a cough from the cavern that +does not at all please me; indeed, it occasions me no little pain, which +makes me suppose that one must needs breathe a very unwholesome damp air +in this cavern. But then, were that the case, I do not comprehend how my +friend Charon should have held it out so long and so well as he has. + +This morning I was up very early in order to view the ruins, and to climb +a high hill alongside of them. The ruins are directly over the mouth of +the hole on the hill, which extends itself some distance over the cavern +beyond the ruins, and always widens, though here in front it is so narrow +that the building takes up the whole. + +From the ruins all around there is nothing but steep rock, so that there +is no access to it but from the town, where a crooked path from the foot +of the hill is hewn in the rock, but is also prodigiously steep. + +The spot on which the ruins stand is now all overgrown with nettles and +thistles. Formerly, it is said, there was a bridge from this mountain to +the opposite one, of which one may yet discover some traces, as in the +vale which divides the two rocks we still find the remains of some of the +arches on which the bridge rested. This vale, which lies at the back of +the ruins and probably over the cavern, is called the Cave’s Way, and is +one of the greatest thoroughfares to the town. In the part at which, at +some distance, it begins to descend between these two mountains, its +descent is so gentle that one is not at all tired in going down it; but +if you should happen to miss the way between the two rocks and continue +on the heights, you are in great danger of falling from the rock, which +every moment becomes steeper and steeper. + +The mountain on which the ruins stand is everywhere rocky. The one on +the left of it, which is separated by the vale, is perfectly verdant and +fertile, and on its summit the pasture hands are divided by stones, piled +up in the form of a wall. This green mountain is at least three times as +high as that on which the ruins stand. + +I began to clamber up the green mountain, which is also pretty steep; and +when I had got more than half way up without having once looked back, I +was nearly in the same situation as the adventurer who clambered up Mam +Tor Hill, for when I looked round, I found my eye had not been trained to +view, unmoved, so prodigious a height. Castleton with the surrounding +country lay below me like a map, the roofs of the houses seemed almost +close to the ground, and the mountain with the ruins itself seemed to be +lying at my feet. + +I grew giddy at the prospect, and it required all my reason to convince +me that I was in no danger, and that, at all events, I could only +scramble down the green turf in the same manner as I had got up. At +length I seemed to grow accustomed to this view till it really gave me +pleasure, and I now climbed quite to the summit and walked over the +meadows, and at length reached the way which gradually descends between +the two mountains. + +At the top of the green mountain I met with some neat country girls, who +were milking their cows, and coming this same way with their milk-pails +on their heads. + +This little rural party formed a beautiful group when some of them with +their milk-pails took shelter, as it began to rain, under a part of the +rock, beneath which they sat down on natural stone benches, and there, +with pastoral innocence and glee, talked and laughed till the shower was +over. + +My way led me into the town, from whence I now write, and which I intend +leaving in order to begin my journey back to London, but I think I shall +not now pursue quite the same road. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + + _Northampton_. + +WHEN I took my leave of the honest shoemaker in Castleton, who would have +rejoiced to have accompanied me, I resolved to return, not by Tideswell, +but by Wardlow, which is nearer. + +I there found but one single inn, and in it only a landlady, who told me +that her husband was at work in the lead mines, and that the cavern at +Castleton, and all that I had yet seen, was nothing to be compared to +these lead mines. Her husband, she said, would be happy to show them to +me. + +When I came to offer to pay her for my dinner she made some difficulty +about it, because, as I had neither drank ale or brandy, by the selling +of which she chiefly made her livelihood, she said she could not well +make out my bill. On this I called for a mug of ale (which I did not +drink) in order to enable me the better to settle her reckoning. + +At this same time I saw my innkeeper of Tideswell, who, however, had not, +like me, come on foot, but prancing proudly on horseback. + +As I proceeded, and saw the hills rise before me, which were still fresh +in my memory, having so recently become acquainted with them in my +journey thither, I was just reading the passage in Milton relative to the +creation, in which the Angel describes to Adam how the water subsided, +and + + “Immediately the mountains huge appear + Emergent, and their broad bare backs upheave + Into the clouds, their tops ascend the sky.” + + _Book VII._, 1. 285. + +It seemed to me, while reading this passage, as if everything around me +were in the act of creating, and the mountains themselves appeared to +emerge or rise, so animated was the scene. + +I had felt something not very unlike this on my journey hither, as I was +sitting opposite to a hill, whose top was covered with trees, and was +reading in Milton the sublime description of the combat of the angels, +where the fallen angels are made, with but little regard to chronology, +to attack their antagonists with artillery and cannon, as if it had been +a battle on earth of the present age. The better angels, however, defend +themselves against their antagonists by each seizing on some hill by the +tufts on its summit, tearing them up by the root, and thus bearing them +in their hands to fling them at their enemy: + + “—they ran, they flew, + From their foundation loos’ning to and fro, + They pluck’d the seated hills with all their load, + Rocks, waters, woods, and by the shaggy tops + Uplifting bore them in their hands—.” + + Book _VI._, 1. 642. + +I seemed to fancy to myself that I actually saw an angel there standing +and plucking up a hill before me and shaking it in the air. + +When I came to the last village before I got to Matlock, as it was now +evening and dark, I determined to spend the night there, and inquired for +an inn, which, I was told, was at the end of the village; and so on I +walked, and kept walking till near midnight before I found this same inn. +The place seemed to have no end. On my journey to Castleton I must +either not have passed through this village or not have noticed its +length. Much tired, and not a little indisposed, I at length arrived at +the inn, where I sat myself down by the fire in the kitchen, and asked +for something to eat. As they told me I could not have a bed here, I +replied I absolutely would not be driven away, for that if nothing better +could be had I would sit all night by the fire. This I actually prepared +to do, and laid my head on the table in order to sleep. + +When the people in the kitchen thought that I was asleep, I heard them +taking about me, and guessing who or what I might be. One woman alone +seemed to take my part, and said, “I daresay he is a well-bred +gentleman;” another scouted that notion, merely because, as she said, “I +had come on foot;” and “depend on it,” said she, “he is some poor +travelling creature!” My ears yet ring with the contemptuous tone with +which she uttered, “poor travelling creature!” It seems to express all +the wretchedness of one who neither has house nor home—a vagabond and +outcast of society. + +At last, when these unfeeling people saw that I was determined, at all +events, to stay there all night, they gave me a bed, but not till I had +long given up all hopes of getting one. And in the morning, when they +asked me a shilling for it, I gave them half-a-crown, adding, with +something of an air, that I would have no change. This I did, though +perhaps foolishly, to show them that I was not quite “_a poor creature_.” +And now they took leave of me with great civility and many excuses; and I +now continued my journey much at my ease. + +When I had passed Matlock I did not go again towards Derby, but took the +road to the left towards Nottingham. Here the hills gradually +disappeared; and my journey now lay through meadow grounds and cultivated +fields. + +I must here inform you that the word _Peake_, or _Pike_, in old English +signifies a point or summit. The _Peak_ of Derbyshire, therefore, means +that part of the country which is hilly, or where the mountains are +highest. + +Towards noon I again came to an eminence, where I found but one single +solitary inn, which had a singular inscription on its sign. It was in +rhyme, and I remember only that it ended with these words, “Refresh, and +then go on.” “Entertainment for man and horse.” This I have seen on +several signs, but the most common, at all the lesser ale-houses, is, “A. +B. C. or D. dealer in foreign spirituous liquors.” + +I dined here on cold meat and salad. This, or else eggs and salad, was +my usual supper, and my dinner too, at the inns at which I stopped. It +was but seldom that I had the good fortune to get anything hot. The +salad, for which they brought me all the ingredients, I was always +obliged to dress myself. This, I believe, is always done in England. + +The road was now tolerably pleasant, but the country seemed here to be +uniform and unvaried, even to dulness. However, it was a very fine +evening, and as I passed through a village just before sunset several +people who met me accosted me with a phrase which, at first, I thought +odd, but which I now think civil, if not polite. As if I could possibly +want information on such a point as they passed me, they all very +courteously told me, “’Twas a fine evening,” or “A pleasant night.” + +I have also often met people who as they passed me obligingly and kindly +asked: “How do you do?” To which unexpected question from total +strangers I have now learned to answer, “Pretty well, I thank you; how do +you do?” This manner of address must needs appear very singular to a +foreigner, who is all at once asked by a person whom he has never seen +before how he does. + +After I had passed through this village I came to a green field, at the +side of which I met with an ale-house. The mistress was sitting at the +window. I asked her if I could stay the night there. She said “No!” and +shut the window in my face. + +This unmannerliness recalled to my recollection the many receptions of +this kind to which I have now so often been exposed, and I could not +forbear uttering aloud my indignation at the inhospitality of the +English. This harsh sentiment I soon corrected, however, as I walked on, +by recollecting, and placing in the opposite scale, the unbounded and +unequalled generosity of this nation, and also the many acts of real and +substantial kindness which I had myself experienced in it. + +I at last came to another inn, where there was written on the sign: “The +Navigation Inn,” because it is the depot, or storehouse, of the colliers +of the Trent. + +A rougher or ruder kind of people I never saw than these colliers, whom I +here met assembled in the kitchen, and in whose company I was obliged to +spend the evening. + +Their language, their dress, their manners were, all of them, singularly +vulgar and disagreeable, and their expressions still more so, for they +hardly spoke a word, without adding “a G—d d— me” to it, and thus +cursing, quarrelling, drinking, singing, and fighting, they seemed to be +pleased, and to enjoy the evening. I must do them the justice to add, +that none of them, however, at all molested me or did me any harm. On +the contrary, every one again and again drank my health, and I took care +not to forget to drink theirs in return. The treatment of my host at +Matlock was still fresh in my memory, and so, as often as I drank, I +never omitted saying, “Your healths, gentlemen all!” + +When two Englishmen quarrel, the fray is carried on, and decided, rather +by actions than by words; though loud and boisterous, they do not say +much, and frequently repeat the same thing over and over again, always +clinching it with an additional “G— d— you!” Their anger seems to +overpower their utterance, and can vent only by coming to blows. + +The landlady, who sat in the kitchen along with all this goodly company, +was nevertheless well dressed, and a remarkably well-looking woman. As +soon as I had supped I hastened to bed, but could not sleep; my quondam +companions, the colliers, made such a noise the whole night through. In +the morning, when I got up, there was not cue to be seen nor heard. + +I was now only a few miles from Nottingham, where I arrived towards noon. + +This, of all the towns I have yet seen, except London, seemed to me to be +one of the best, and is undoubtedly the cleanest. Everything here wore a +modern appearance, and a large place in the centre, scarcely yielded to a +London square in point of beauty. + +From the town a charming footpath leads you across the meadows to the +high-road, where there is a bridge over the Trent. Not far from this +bridge was an inn, where I dined, though I could get nothing but +bread-and-butter, of which I desired to have a toast made. + +Nottingham lies high, and made a beautiful appearance at a distance, with +its neat high houses, red roofs, and its lofty steeples. I have not seen +so fine a prospect in any other town in England. + +I now came through several villages, as Ruddington, Bradmore, and Buny, +to Castol, where I stayed all night. + +This whole afternoon I heard the ringing of bells in many of the +villages. Probably it is some holiday which they thus celebrate. It was +cloudy weather, and I felt myself not at all well, and in these +circumstances this ringing discomposed me still more, and made me at +length quite low-spirited and melancholy. + +At Castol there were three inns close to each other, in which, to judge +only from the outside of the houses, little but poverty was to be +expected. In the one at which I at length stopped there was only a +landlady, a sick butcher, and a sick carter, both of whom had come to +stay the night. This assemblage of sick persons gave me the idea of an +hospital, and depressed me still more. I felt some degree of fever, was +very restless all night, and so I kept my bed very late the next morning, +until the woman of the house came and aroused me by saying she had been +uneasy on my account. And now I formed the resolution to go to Leicester +in the post-coach. + +I was now only four miles from Loughborough, a small, and I think, not a +very handsome town, where I arrived late at noon, and dined at the last +inn on the road that leads to Leicester. Here again, far beyond +expectation, the people treated me like a gentleman, and let me dine in +the parlour. + +From Loughborough to Leicester was only ten miles, but the road was sandy +and very unpleasant walking. + +I came through a village called Mountsorrel, which perhaps takes its name +from a little hill at the end of it. As for the rest, it was all one +large plain, all the way to Leicester. + +Towards evening I came to a pleasant meadow just before I got to +Leicester, through which a footpath led me to the town, which made a good +appearance as I viewed it lengthways, and indeed much larger than it +really is. + +I went up a long street before I got to the house from which the +post-coaches set out, and which is also an inn. I here learnt that the +stage was to set out that evening for London, but that the inside was +already full; some places were, however, still left on the outside. + +Being obliged to bestir myself to get back to London, as the time drew +near when the Hamburg captain, with whom I intend to return, had fixed +his departure, I determined to take a place as far as Northampton on the +outside. + +But this ride from Leicester to Northampton I shall remember as long as I +live. + +The coach drove from the yard through a part of the house. The inside +passengers got in in the yard, but we on the outside were obliged to +clamber up in the public street, because we should have had no room for +our heads to pass under the gateway. + +My companions on the top of the coach were a farmer, a young man very +decently dressed, and a blackamoor. + +The getting up alone was at the risk of one’s life, and when I was up I +was obliged to sit just at the corner of the coach, with nothing to hold +by but a sort of little handle fastened on the side. I sat nearest the +wheel, and the moment that we set off I fancied that I saw certain death +await me. All I could do was to take still safer hold of the handle, and +to be more and more careful to preserve my balance. + +The machine now rolled along with prodigious rapidity, over the stones +through the town, and every moment we seemed to fly into the air, so that +it was almost a miracle that we still stuck to the coach and did not +fall. We seemed to be thus on the wing, and to fly, as often as we +passed through a village, or went down a hill. + +At last the being continually in fear of my life became insupportable, +and as we were going up a hill, and consequently proceeding rather slower +than usual, I crept from the top of the coach and got snug into the +basket. + +“O, sir, sir, you will be shaken to death!” said the black, but I +flattered myself he exaggerated the unpleasantness of my post. + +As long as we went up hill it was easy and pleasant. And, having had +little or no sleep the night before, I was almost asleep among the trunks +and the packages; but how was the case altered when we came to go down +hill! then all the trunks and parcels began, as it were, to dance around +me, and everything in the basket seemed to be alive, and I every moment +received from them such violent blows that I thought my last hour was +come. I now found that what the black had told me was no exaggeration, +but all my complaints were useless. I was obliged to suffer this torture +nearly an hour, till we came to another hill again, when quite shaken to +pieces and sadly bruised, I again crept to the top of the coach, and took +possession of my former seat. “Ah, did not I tell you that you would be +shaken to death?” said the black, as I was getting up, but I made him no +reply. Indeed, I was ashamed; and I now write this as a warning to all +strangers to stage-coaches who may happen to take it into their heads, +without being used to it, to take a place on the outside of an English +post-coach, and still more, a place in the basket. + +About midnight we arrived at Harborough, where I could only rest myself a +moment, before we were again called to set off, full drive, through a +number of villages, so that a few hours before daybreak we had reached +Northampton, which is, however, thirty-three miles from Leicester. + +From Harborough to Leicester I had a most dreadful journey, it rained +incessantly; and as before we had been covered with dust, we now were +soaked with rain. My neighbour, the young man who sat next me in the +middle, that my inconveniences might be complete, every now and then fell +asleep; and as, when asleep, he perpetually bolted and rolled against me, +with the whole weight of his body, more than once he was very near +pushing me entirely off my seat. + +We at last reached Northampton, where I immediately went to bed, and have +slept almost till noon. To-morrow morning I intend to continue my +journey to London in some other stage-coach. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + + _London_, 15th _July_, 1782. + +THE journey from Northampton to London I can again hardly call a journey, +but rather a perpetual motion, or removal from one place to another, in a +close box; during your conveyance you may, perhaps, if you are in luck, +converse with two or three people shut up along with you. + +But I was not so fortunate, for my three travelling companions were all +farmers, who slept so soundly that even the hearty knocks of the head +with which they often saluted each other, did not awake them. + +Their faces, bloated and discoloured by their copious use of ale and +brandy, looked, as they lay before me, like so many lumps of dead flesh. +When now and then they woke, sheep, in which they all dealt, was the +first and last topic of their conversation. One of the three, however, +differed not a little from the other two; his face was sallow and thin, +his eyes quite sunk and hollow, his long, lank fingers hung quite loose, +and as if detached from his hands. He was, in short, the picture of +avarice and misanthropy. The former he certainly was; for at every stage +he refused to give the coachman the accustomed perquisite, which every +body else paid; and every farthing he was forced to part with, forced a +“G—d d—n” from his heart. As he sat in the coach, he seemed anxious to +shun the light; and so shut up every window that he could come at, except +when now and then I opened them to take a slight view of the charms of +the country through which we seemed to be flying, rather than driving. + +Our road lay through Newport Pagnell, Dunstable, St. Albans, Barnet, to +Islington, or rather to London itself. But these names are all I know of +the different places. + +At Dunstable, if I do not mistake, we breakfasted; and here, as is usual, +everything was paid for in common by all the passengers; as I did not +know this, I ordered coffee separately; however, when it came, the three +farmers also drank of it, and gave me some of their tea. + +They asked me what part of the world I came from; whereas we in Germany +generally inquired what countryman a person is. + +When we had breakfasted, and were again seated in the coach, all the +farmers, the lean one excepted, seemed quite alive again, and now began a +conversation on religion and on politics. + +One of them brought the history of Samson on the carpet, which the +clergyman of his parish, he said, had lately explained, I dare say very +satisfactorily; though this honest farmer still had a great many doubts +about the great gate which Samson carried away, and about the foxes with +the firebrands between their tails. In other respects, however, the man +seemed not to be either uninformed or sceptical. + +They now proceeded to relate to each other various stories, chiefly out +of the Bible; not merely as important facts, but as interesting +narratives, which they would have told and listened to with equal +satisfaction had they met them anywhere else. One of them had only heard +these stories from his minister in the church, not being able to read +them himself. + +The one that sat next to him now began to talk about the Jews of the Old +Testament, and assured us that the present race were all descended from +those old ones. “Ay, and they are all damned to all eternity!” said his +companion, as coolly and as confidently as if at that moment he had seen +them burning in the bottomless pit. + +We now frequently took up fresh passengers, who only rode a short +distance with us, and then got out again. Among others was a woman from +London, whose business was the making of brandy. She entertained us with +a very circumstantial narrative of all the shocking scenes during the +late riot in that city. What particularly struck me was her saying that +she saw a man, opposite to her house, who was so furious, that he stood +on the wall of a house that was already half burnt down, and there, like +a demon, with his own hands pulled down and tossed about the bricks which +the fire had spared, till at length he was shot, and fell back among the +flames. + +At length we arrived at London without any accident, in a hard rain, +about one o’clock. I had been obliged to pay sixteen shillings +beforehand at Northampton, for the sixty miles to London. This the +coachman seemed not to know for certain, and therefore asked me more +earnestly if I was sure I had paid: I assured him I had, and he took my +word. + +I looked like a crazy creature when I arrived in London; notwithstanding +which, Mr. Pointer, with whom I left my trunk, received me in the most +friendly manner, and desired me during dinner to relate to him my +adventures. + +The same evening I called on Mr. Leonhardi, who, as I did not wish to +hire a lodging for the few days I might be obliged to wait for a fair +wind, got me into the Freemasons’ Tavern. And here I have been waiting +these eight days, and the wind still continues contrary for Hambro’; +though I do now most heartily wish for a fair wind, as I can no longer +make any improvement by my stay, since I must keep myself in constant +readiness to embark whenever the wind changes; and therefore I dare go no +great distance. + +Everybody here is now full of the Marquis of Rockingham’s death, and the +change of the ministry in consequence of it. They are much displeased +that Fox has given up his seat; and yet it is singular, they still are +much concerned, and interest themselves for him, as if whatever +interested him were the interest of the nation. On Tuesday there was a +highly important debate in Parliament. Fox was called on to assign the +true reasons of his resignation before the nation. At eleven o’clock the +gallery was so full that nobody could get a place, and the debates only +began at three, and lasted this evening till ten. + +About four Fox came. Every one was full of expectation. He spoke at +first with great vehemence, but it was observed that he gradually became +more and more moderate, and when at length he had vindicated the step he +had taken, and showed it to be, in every point of view, just, wise, and +honourable, he added, with great force and pathos, “and now I stand here +once more as poor as ever I was.” It was impossible to hear such a +speech and such declarations unmoved. + +General Conway then gave his reasons why he did not resign, though he was +of the same political principles as Mr. Fox and Mr. Burke; he was of the +same opinion with them in regard to the independency of America; the more +equal representation of the people in Parliament, and the regulations +necessary in Ireland; but he did not think the present minister, Lord +Shelburne, would act contrary to those principles. As soon as he did, he +should likewise resign, but not before. + +Burke now stood up and made a most elegant though florid speech, in +praise of the late Marquis of Rockingham. As he did not meet with +sufficient attention, and heard much talking and many murmurs, he said, +with much vehemence and a sense of injured merit, “This is not treatment +for so old a member of Parliament as I am, and I will be heard!”—on which +there was immediately a most profound silence. After he had said much +more in praise of Rockingham, he sub-joined, that with regard to General +Conway’s remaining in the ministry, it reminded him of a fable he had +heard in his youth, of a wolf, who, on having clothed himself as a sheep, +was let into the fold by a lamb, who indeed did say to him, “Where did +you get those long nails, and those sharp teeth, mamma?” But +nevertheless let him in; the consequence of which was he murdered the +whole flock. Now with respect to General Conway, it appeared to him, +just as though the lamb certainly did perceive the nails and teeth of the +wolf, but notwithstanding, was so good-tempered to believe that the wolf +would change his nature, and become a lamb. By this, he did not mean to +reflect on Lord Shelburne: only of this he was certain, that the present +administration was a thousand times worse than that under Lord North (who +was present). + +When I heard Mr. Pitt speak for the first time, I was astonished that a +man of so youthful an appearance should stand up at all; but I was still +more astonished to see how, while he spoke, he engaged universal +attention. He seems to me not to be more than one-and-twenty. This same +Pitt is now minister, and even Chancellor of the Exchequer. + +It is shocking to a foreigner, to see what violent satires on men, rather +than on things, daily appear in the newspapers, of which they tell me +there are at least a dozen, if not more, published every day. Some of +them side with the Ministry, and still more I think with the Opposition. +A paper that should be quite impartial, if that were possible, I +apprehend would be deemed so insipid as to find no readers. No longer +ago than yesterday, it was mentioned in one of these newspapers, that +when Fox, who is fallen, saw so young a man as Pitt made the minister, he +exclaimed with Satan, who, in “Paradise Lost,” on perceiving the man +approved by God, called out, “O hateful sight!” + +On Thursday the king went with the usual solemnity to prorogue the +Parliament for a stated time. But I pass this over as a matter that has +already been so often described. + +I have also, during this period, become acquainted with Baron Grothaus, +the famous walker, to whom I had also a letter of recommendation from +Baron Groote of Hambro’. He lives in Chesterfield House, not far from +General Paoli, to whom he has promised to introduce me, if I have time to +call on him again. + +I have suffered much this week from the violent cough I brought with me +from the hole in Derbyshire, so that I could not for some days stir; +during which time Messrs. Schonborn and Leonhardi have visited me very +attentively, and contributed much to my amendment. + +I have been obliged to relate as much about my journey out of London here +as I probably shall in Germany of all England in general. To most people +to whom I give an account of my journey, what I have seen is quite new. +I must, however, here insert a few remarks on the elocution, or manner of +speaking, of this country, which I had forgot before to write to you. + +English eloquence appears to me not to be nearly so capable of so much +variety and diffusion as ours is. Add to this, in their Parliamentary +speeches, in sermons in the pulpit, in the dialogues on the stage; nay, +even in common conversation, their periods at the end of a sentence are +always accompanied by a certain singular uniform fall of the voice, +which, notwithstanding its monotony has in it something so peculiar, and +so difficult, that I defy any foreigner ever completely to acquire it. +Mr. Leonhardi in particular seemed to me, in some passages which he +repeated out of _Hamlet_, to have learnt to sink his voice in the true +English manner; yet any one might know from his speaking that he is not +an Englishman. The English place the accent oftener on the adjectives +than they do on the substantive, which, though undoubtedly the most +significant word in any sentence, has frequently less stress laid on it +than you hear laid on mere epithets. On the stage they pronounce the +syllables and words extremely distinct, so that at the theatres you may +always gain most instruction in English elocution and pronunciation. + +This kingdom is remarkable for running into dialect: even in London they +are said to have one. They say, for example, “it a’nt” instead of “it is +not;” “I don’t know,” for “I do not know;” “I don’t know him,” for “I do +not know him;” the latter of which phrases has often deceived me, as I +mistook a negative for an affirmative. + +The word “sir,” in English, has a great variety of significations. With +the appellation of “sir,” an Englishman addresses his king, his friend, +his foe, his servant, and his dog; he makes use of it when asking a +question politely; and a member of Parliament, merely to fill up a +vacancy, when he happens to be at a loss. “Sir?” in an inquiring tone of +voice, signifies what is your desire? “Sir!” in a humble tone—gracious +Sovereign!—“Sir!” in surly tone, a box on the ear at your service! To a +dog it means a good beating. And in a speech in Parliament, accompanied +by a pause, it signifies, I cannot now recollect what it is I wish to say +farther. + +I do not recollect to have heard any expression repeated oftener than +this, “Never mind it!” A porter one day fell down, and cut his head on +the pavement: “O, never mind it!” said an Englishman who happened to be +passing by. When I had my trunk fetched from the ship in a boat, the +waterman rowed among the boats, and his boy, who stood at the head of his +boat, got a sound drubbing, because the others would not let him pass: +“O, never mind it!” said the old one, and kept rowing on. + +The Germans who have been here any time almost constantly make use of +Anglicisms, such as “_es will nicht thun_” (it will not do), instead of +_es ist nicht hinlänglich_ (it is not sufficient), and many such. Nay, +some even say, “_Ich habe es nicht geminded_” (I did not mind it), +instead of _ich habe mich nicht daran errinnert_, oder _daran gedacht_ (I +did not recollect it, or I did not think of it). + +You can immediately distinguish Englishmen when they speak German, by +their pronunciation according to the English manner; instead of _Ich +befinde mich wohl_, they say _Ich befirmich u’hol_ (I am very well), the +_w_ being as little noticed as _u_ quickly sounded. + +I have often heard, when directing any one in the street, the phrase, “Go +down the street as far as ever you can go, and ask anybody.” Just as we +say, “Every child can direct you.” + +I have already noticed in England they learn to write a much finer hand +than with us. This probably arises from their making use of only one +kind of writing, in which the letters are all so exact that you would +take it for print. + +In general, in speaking, reading, in their expressions, and in writing, +they seem, in England, to have more decided rules than we have. The +lowest man expresses himself in proper phrases, and he who publishes a +book, at least writes correctly, though the matter be ever so ordinary. +In point of style, when they write, they seem to be all of the same +country, profession, rank, and station. + +The printed English sermons are beyond all question the best in the +world; yet I have sometimes heard sad, miserable stuff from their +pulpits. I have been in some churches where the sermons seem to have +been transcribed or compiled from essays and pamphlets; and the motley +composition, after all, very badly put together. It is said that there +are a few in London, by whom some of the English clergy are supposed to +get their sermons made for money. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + + _London_, 18th _July_. + +I WRITE to you now for the last time from London; and, what is still +more, from St. Catherine’s, one of the most execrable holes in all this +great city, where I am obliged to stay, because the great ships arrive in +the Thames here, and go from hence, and we shall sail as soon as the wind +changes. This it has just now done, yet still it seems we shall not sail +till to-morrow. To-day therefore I can still relate to you all the +little that I have farther noticed. + +On Monday morning I moved from the Freemasons’ Tavern to a public-house +here, of which the master is a German; and where all the Hambro’ captains +lodge. At the Freemasons’ Tavern, the bill for eight days’ lodging, +breakfast, and dinner came to one guinea and nine shillings and nine +pence. Breakfast, dinner, and coffee were always, with distinction, +reckoned a shilling each. For my lodging I paid only twelve shillings a +week, which was certainly cheap enough. + +At the German’s house in St. Catherine’s, on the contrary, everything is +more reasonable, and you here eat, drink, and lodge for half-a-guinea a +week. Notwithstanding, however, I would not advise anybody who wishes to +see London, to lodge here long; for St. Catherine’s is one of the most +out-of-the-way and inconvenient places in the whole town. + +He who lands here first sees this miserable, narrow, dirty street, and +this mass of ill-built, old, ruinous houses; and of course forms, at +first sight, no very favourable idea of this beautiful and renowned city. + +From Bullstrode Street, or Cavendish Square, to St. Catherine’s, is +little less than half a day’s journey. Nevertheless, Mr. Schonborn has +daily visited me since I have lived here; and I have always walked back +half-way with him. This evening we took leave of each other near St. +Paul’s, and this separation cost me not a few tears. + +I have had a very agreeable visit this afternoon from Mr. Hansen, one of +the assistants to the “Zollner book for all ranks of men” who brought me +a letter from the Rev. Mr. Zollner at Berlin, and just arrived at London +when I was going away. He is going on business to Liverpool. I have +these few days past, for want of better employment, walked through +several parts of London that I had not before seen. Yesterday I +endeavoured to reach the west end of the town; and I walked several +miles, when finding it was grown quite dark, I turned back quite tired, +without having accomplished my end. + +Nothing in London makes so disgusting an appearance to a foreigner, as +the butchers’ shops, especially in the environs of the Tower. Guts and +all the nastiness are thrown into the middle of the street, and cause an +insupportable stench. + +I have forgot to describe the ’Change to you; this beautiful building is +a long square in the centre of which is an open area, where the merchants +assemble. All round, there are covered walks supported by pillars on +which the name of the different commercial nations you may wish to find +are written up, that among the crowd of people you may be able to find +each other. There are also stone benches made under the covered walks, +which after a ramble from St. Catherine’s, for example, hither, are very +convenient to rest yourself. + +On the walls all kinds of handbills are stuck up. Among others I read +one of singular contents. A clergyman exhorted the people not to assent +to the shameful Act of Parliament for the toleration of Catholics, by +suffering their children to their eternal ruin to be instructed and +educated by them; but rather to give him, an orthodox clergyman of the +Church of England, this employ and this emolument. + +In the middle of the area is a stone statue of Charles the Second. As I +sat here on a bench, and gazed on the immense crowds that people London, +I thought that, as to mere dress and outward appearance, these here did +not seem to be materially different from our people at Berlin. + +Near the ’Change is a shop where, for a penny or even a halfpenny only, +you may read as many newspapers as you will. There are always a number +of people about these shops, who run over the paper as they stand, pay +their halfpenny, and then go on. + +Near the ’Change there is a little steeple with a set of bells which have +a charming tone, but they only chime one or two lively tunes, though in +this part of the City you constantly hear bells ringing in your ears. + +It has struck me that in London there is no occasion for any elementary +works or prints, for the instruction of children. One need only lead +them into the City, and show them the things themselves as they really +are. For here it is contrived, as much as possible, to place in view for +the public inspection every production of art, and every effort of +industry. Paintings, mechanisms, curiosities of all kinds, are here +exhibited in the large and light shop windows, in the most advantageous +manner; nor are spectators wanting, who here and there, in the middle of +the street, stand still to observe any curious performance. Such a +street seemed to me to resemble a well regulated cabinet of curiosities. + +But the squares, where the finest houses are, disdain and reject all such +shows and ornaments, which are adapted only to shopkeepers’ houses. The +squares, moreover, are not nearly so crowded or so populous as the +streets and the other parts of the city. There is nearly as much +difference between these squares and the Strand in London, in point of +population and bustle, as there is between Millbank and Fredericksstadt +in Berlin. + +I do not at present recollect anything further, my dear friend, worth +your attention, which I can now write to you, except that everything is +ready for our departure to-morrow. I paid Captain Hilkes, with whom I +came over from Hambro’, four guineas for my passage and my board in the +cabin. But Captain Braunschweig, with whom I am to return, charges me +five guineas; because provisions, he says, are dearer in London than at +Hambro’. I now have related to you all my adventures and all my history +from the time that I took leave of you in the street, my voyage hither +with Captain Hilkes excepted. Of this, all that I think it necessary to +mention is, that, to my great dissatisfaction, it lasted a fortnight, and +three days I was sea-sick. Of my voyage back I will give you a personal +account. And now remember me to Biester, and farewell till I see you +again. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782*** + + +******* This file should be named 5249-0.txt or 5249-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/2/4/5249 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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Moritz</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in England in 1782, by Charles P. +Moritz, Edited by Henry Morley + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Travels in England in 1782 + + +Author: Charles P. Moritz + +Editor: Henry Morley + +Release Date: July 2, 2014 [eBook #5249] +[This file was first posted on June 11, 2002] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1886 Cassell & Company edition by +David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<h1><span class="smcap">Travels in England</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall"><span class="smcap">In</span></span><span +class="GutSmall"> 1782</span></h1> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">BY</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">C. P. MORITZ.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/tpb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative graphic" +title= +"Decorative graphic" +src="images/tps.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center">CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited:<br +/> +<span class="GutSmall"><i>LONDON</i></span><span +class="GutSmall">, </span><span +class="GutSmall"><i>PARIS</i></span><span class="GutSmall">, +</span><span class="GutSmall"><i>NEW YORK & +MELBOURNE</i></span><span class="GutSmall">.</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">1886.</span></p> +<h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">Charles</span> P. <span +class="smcap">Moritz’s</span> “Travels, chiefly on +foot, through several parts of England in 1782, described in +Letters to a Friend,” were translated from the German by a +lady, and published in 1795. John Pinkerton included them +in the second volume of his Collection of Voyages and +Travels.</p> +<p>The writer of this account of England as it was about a +hundred years ago, and seven years before the French Revolution, +was a young Prussian clergyman, simply religious, calmly +enthusiastic for the freer forms of citizenship, which he found +in England and contrasted with the military system of +Berlin. The touch of his times was upon him, with some of +the feeling that caused Frenchmen, after the first outbreak of +the Revolution, to hail Englishmen as “their forerunners in +the glorious race.” He had learnt English at home, +and read Milton, whose name was inscribed then in German +literature on the banners of the free.</p> +<p>In 1782 Charles Moritz came to England with little in his +purse and “Paradise Lost” in his pocket, which he +meant to read in the Land of Milton. He came ready to +admire, and enthusiasm adds some colour to his earliest +impressions; but when they were coloured again by hard +experience, the quiet living sympathy remained. There is +nothing small in the young Pastor Moritz, we feel a noble nature +in his true simplicity of character.</p> +<p>He stayed seven weeks with us, three of them in London. +He travelled on foot to Richmond, Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, +and Matlock, with some experience of a stage coach on the way +back; and when, in dread of being hurled from his perch on the +top as the coach flew down hill, he tried a safer berth among the +luggage in the basket, he had further experience. It was +like that of Hood’s old lady, in the same place of inviting +shelter, who, when she crept out, had only breath enough left to +murmur, “Oh, them boxes!”</p> +<p>Pastor Moritz’s experience of inns was such as he hardly +could pick up in these days of the free use of the feet. +But in those days everybody who was anybody rode. And even +now, there might be cold welcome to a shabby-looking pedestrian +without a knapsack. Pastor Moritz had his Milton in one +pocket and his change of linen in the other. From some inns +he was turned away as a tramp, and in others he found cold +comfort. Yet he could be proud of a bit of practical wisdom +drawn by himself out of the “Vicar of Wakefield,” +that taught him to conciliate the innkeeper by drinking with him; +and the more the innkeeper drank of the ale ordered the better, +because Pastor Moritz did not like it, and it did not like +him. He also felt experienced in the ways of the world +when, having taken example from the manners of a bar-maid, if he +drank in a full room he did not omit to say, “Your healths, +gentlemen all.”</p> +<p>Fielding’s Parson Adams, with his Æschylus in his +pocket, and Parson Moritz with his Milton, have points of +likeness that bear strong witness to Fielding’s power of +entering into the spirit of a true and gentle nature. After +the first touches of enthusiastic sentiment, that represent real +freshness of enjoyment, there is no reaction to excess in +opposite extreme. The young foot traveller settles down to +simple truth, retains his faith in English character, and reports +ill-usage without a word of bitterness.</p> +<p>The great charm of this book is its unconscious expression of +the writer’s character. His simple truthfulness +presents to us of 1886 as much of the England of 1782 as he was +able to see with eyes full of intelligence and a heart full of +kindness. He heard Burke speak on the death of his friend +and patron Lord Rockingham, with sudden rebuke to an indolent and +inattentive house. He heard young Pitt, and saw how he +could fix, boy as he looked, every man’s attention.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us<br /> +To see oursels as others see us!<br /> +It wad frae many a blunder free us,<br /> + And foolish notion.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And when the power is so friendly as that of the Pastor +Moritz, we may, if wise, know ourselves better than from a +thousand satires, but if foolish we may let all run into +self-praise.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">H. M.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>On the Thames</i>, 31st +<i>May</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> length, my dearest Gedike, I +find myself safely landed on the happy shores of that country, a +sight of which has, for many years, been my most earnest wish; +and whither I have so often in imagination transported +myself. A few hours ago the green hills of England yet swam +imperfectly before our eyes, scarcely perceptible in the distant +horizon: they now unfold themselves on either side, forming as it +were a double amphitheatre. The sun bursts through the +clouds, and gilds alternately the shrubs and meadows on the +distant shores, and we now espy the tops of two masts of ships +just peeping above the surface of the deep. What an awful +warning to adventurous men! We now sail close by those very +sands (the Goodwin) where so many unfortunate persons have found +their graves.</p> +<p>The shores now regularly draw nearer to each other: the danger +of the voyage is over; and the season for enjoyment, unembittered +by cares, commences. How do we feel ourselves, we, who have +long been wandering as it were, in a boundless space, on having +once more gained prospects that are not without limits! I +should imagine our sensations as somewhat like those of the +traveller who traverses the immeasurable deserts of America, when +fortunately he obtains a hut wherein to shelter himself; in those +moments he certainly enjoys himself; nor does he then complain of +its being too small. It is indeed the lot of man to be +always circumscribed to a narrow space, even when he wanders over +the most extensive regions; even when the huge sea envelops him +all around, and wraps him close to its bosom, in the act, as it +were, of swallowing him up in a moment: still he is separated +from all the circumjacent immensity of space only by one small +part, or insignificant portion of that immensity.</p> +<p>That portion of this space, which I now see surrounding me, is +a most delightful selection from the whole of beautiful +nature. Here is the Thames full of large and small ships +and boats, dispersed here and there, which are either sailing on +with us, or lying at anchor; and there the hills on either side, +clad with so soft and mild a green, as I have nowhere else ever +seen equalled. The charming banks of the Elbe, which I so +lately quitted, are as much surpassed by these shores as autumn +is by spring! I see everywhere nothing but fertile and +cultivated lands; and those living hedges which in England more +than in any other country, form the boundaries of the green +cornfields, and give to the whole of the distant country the +appearance of a large and majestic garden. The neat +villages and small towns with sundry intermediate country seats, +suggest ideas of prosperity and opulence which is not possible to +describe.</p> +<p>The prospect towards Gravesend is particularly +beautiful. It is a clever little town, built on the side of +a hill; about which there lie hill and dale and meadows, and +arable land, intermixed with pleasure grounds and country seats; +all diversified in the most agreeable manner. On one of the +highest of these hills near Gravesend stands a windmill, which is +a very good object, as you see it at some distance, as well as +part of the country around it, on the windings of the +Thames. But as few human pleasures are ever complete and +perfect, we too, amidst the pleasing contemplation of all these +beauties, found ourselves exposed on the quarter-deck to +uncommonly cold and piercing weather. An unintermitting +violent shower of rain has driven me into the cabin, where I am +now endeavouring to divert a gloomy hour by giving you the +description of a pleasing one.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, 2<i>nd</i> +<i>June</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> morning those of us who were +fellow passengers together in the great cabin, being six in +number, requested to be set on shore in a boat, a little before +the vessel got to Dartford, which is still sixteen miles from +London. This expedient is generally adopted, instead of +going up the Thames, towards London, where on account of the +astonishing number of ships, which are always more crowded +together the nearer you approach the city, it frequently requires +many days before a ship can finish her passage. He +therefore who wishes to lose no time unnecessarily, and wishes +also to avoid other inconveniences, such as frequent stoppages, +and perhaps, some alarming dashings against other ships, prefers +travelling those few miles by land in a post-chaise, which is not +very expensive, especially when three join together, as three +passengers pay no more than one. This indulgence is allowed +by act of parliament.</p> +<p>As we left the vessel we were honoured with a general huzza, +or in the English phrase with three cheers, echoed from the +German sailors of our ship. This nautical style of bidding +their friends farewell our Germans have learned from the +English. The cliff where we landed was white and chalky, +and as the distance was not great, nor other means of conveyance +at hand, we resolved to go on foot to Dartford: immediately on +landing we had a pretty steep hill to climb, and that gained, we +arrived at the first English village, where an uncommon neatness +in the structure of the houses, which in general are built with +red bricks and flat roofs, struck me with a pleasing surprise, +especially when I compared them with the long, rambling, +inconvenient, and singularly mean cottages of our peasants. +We now continued our way through the different villages, each +furnished with his staff, and thus exhibited no remote +resemblance of a caravan. Some few people who met us seemed +to stare at us, struck, perhaps, by the singularity of our dress, +or the peculiarity of our manner of travelling. On our +route we passed a wood where a troop of gipsies had taken up +their abode around a fire under a tree. The country, as we +continued to advance, became more and more beautiful. +Naturally, perhaps, the earth is everywhere pretty much alike, +but how different is it rendered by art! How different is +that on which I now tread from ours, and every other spot I have +ever seen. The soil is rich even to exuberance, the verdure +of the trees and hedges, in short the whole of this paradisaical +region is without a parallel! The roads too are +incomparable; I am astonished how they have got them so firm and +solid; every step I took I felt, and was conscious it was English +ground on which I trod.</p> +<p>We breakfasted at Dartford. Here, for the first time, I +saw an English soldier, in his red uniform, his hair cut short +and combed back on his forehead, so as to afford a full view of +his fine, broad, manly face. Here too I first saw (what I +deemed a true English fight) in the street, two boys boxing.</p> +<p>Our little party now separated, and got into two post-chaises, +each of which hold three persons, though it must be owned three +cannot sit quite so commodiously in these chaises as two: the +hire of a post-chaise is a shilling for every English mile. +They may be compared to our extra posts, because they are to be +had at all times. But these carriages are very neat and +lightly built, so that you hardly perceive their motion as they +roll along these firm smooth roads; they have windows in front, +and on both sides. The horses are generally good, and the +postillions particularly smart and active, and always ride on a +full trot. The one we had wore his hair cut short, a round +hat, and a brown jacket of tolerable fine cloth, with a nosegay +in his bosom. Now and then, when he drove very hard, he +looked round, and with a smile seemed to solicit our +approbation. A thousand charming spots, and beautiful +landscapes, on which my eye would long have dwelt with rapture, +were now rapidly passed with the speed of an arrow.</p> +<p>Our road appeared to be undulatory, and our journey, like the +journey of life, seemed to be a pretty regular alternation of up +hill and down, and here and there it was diversified with copses +and woods; the majestic Thames every now and then, like a little +forest of masts, rising to our view, and anon losing itself among +the delightful towns and villages. The amazing large signs +which at the entrance of villages hang in the middle of the +street, being fastened to large beams, which are extended across +the street from one house to another opposite to it, particularly +struck me; these sign-posts have the appearance of gates or of +gateways, for which I at first took them, but the whole +apparatus, unnecessarily large as it seems to be, is intended for +nothing more than to tell the inquisitive traveller that there is +an inn. At length, stunned as it were by this constant +rapid succession of interesting objects to engage our attention, +we arrived at Greenwich nearly in a state of stupefaction.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>The Prospect of London</i>.</p> +<p>We first descried it enveloped in a thick smoke or fog. +St. Paul’s arose like some huge mountain above the enormous +mass of smaller buildings. The Monument, a very lofty +column, erected in memory of the great fire of London, exhibited +to us, perhaps, chiefly on account of its immense height, +apparently so disproportioned to its other dimensions (for it +actually struck us as resembling rather a slender mast, towering +up in immeasurable height into the clouds, than as that it really +is, a stately obelisk) an unusual and singular appearance. +Still we went on, and drew nearer and nearer with amazing +velocity, and the surrounding objects became every moment more +distinct. Westminster Abbey, the Tower, a steeple, one +church, and then another, presented themselves to our view; and +we could now plainly distinguish the high round chimneys on the +tops of the houses, which yet seemed to us to form an innumerable +number of smaller spires, or steeples.</p> +<p>The road from Greenwich to London is actually busier and far +more alive than the most frequented streets in Berlin. At +every step we met people on horseback, in carriages, and foot +passengers; and everywhere also, and on each side of the road, +well-built and noble houses, whilst all along, at proper +distances, the road was lined with lamp-posts. One thing, +in particular, struck and surprised me not a little. This +was the number of people we met riding and walking with +spectacles on, among whom were many who appeared stout, healthy, +and young. We were stopped at least three times at barriers +or gates, here called turnpikes, to pay a duty or toll which, +however small, as being generally paid in their copper coinage, +in the end amounted to some shillings.</p> +<p>At length we arrived at the magnificent bridge of +Westminster. The prospect from this bridge alone seems to +afford one the epitome of a journey, or a voyage in miniature, as +containing something of everything that mostly occurs on a +journey. It is a little assemblage of contrasts and +contrarieties. In contrast to the round, modern, and +majestic cathedral of St. Paul’s on your right, the +venerable, old-fashioned, and hugely noble, long abbey of +Westminster, with its enormous pointed roof, rises on the +left. Down the Thames to the right you see +Blackfriar’s Bridge, which does not yield much, if at all, +in beauty to that of Westminster; on the left bank of the Thames +are delightful terraces, planted with trees, and those new +tasteful buildings called the Adelphi. On the Thames itself +are countless swarms of little boats passing and repassing, many +with one mast and one sail, and many with none, in which persons +of all ranks are carried over. Thus there is hardly less +stir and bustle on this river, than there is in some of its own +London’s crowded streets. Here, indeed, you no longer +see great ships, for they come no farther than London Bridge.</p> +<p>We now drove into the city by Charing Cross, and along the +Strand, to those very Adelphi Buildings which had just afforded +us so charming a prospect on Westminster Bridge.</p> +<p>My two travelling companions, both in the ship and the +post-chaise, were two young Englishmen, who living in this part +of the town, obligingly offered me any assistance and services in +their power, and in particular, to procure me a lodging the same +day in their neighbourhood.</p> +<p>In the streets through which we passed, I must own the houses +in general struck me as if they were dark and gloomy, and yet at +the same time they also struck me as prodigiously great and +majestic. At that moment, I could not in my own mind +compare the external view of London with that of any other city I +had ever before seen. But I remember (and surely it is +singular) that about five years ago, on my first entrance into +Leipzig, I had the very same sensations I now felt. It is +possible that the high houses, by which the streets at Leipzig +are partly darkened, the great number of shops, and the crowd of +people, such as till then I had never seen, might have some faint +resemblance with the scene now surrounding me in London.</p> +<p>There are everywhere leading from the Strand to the Thames, +some well-built, lesser, or subordinate streets, of which the +Adelphi Buildings are now by far the foremost. One district +in this neighbourhood goes by the name of York Buildings, and in +this lies George Street, where my two travelling companions +lived. There reigns in those smaller streets towards the +Thames so pleasing a calm, compared to the tumult and bustle of +people, and carriages, and horses, that are constantly going up +and down the Strand, that in going into one of them you can +hardly help fancying yourself removed at a distance from the +noise of the city, even whilst the noisiest part of it is still +so near at hand.</p> +<p>It might be about ten or eleven o’clock when we arrived +here. After the two Englishmen had first given me some +breakfast at their lodgings, which consisted of tea and bread and +butter, they went about with me themselves, in their own +neighbourhood, in search of an apartment, which they at length +procured for me for sixteen shillings a week, at the house of a +tailor’s widow who lived opposite to them. It was +very fortunate, on other accounts, that they went with me, for +equipped as I was, having neither brought clean linen nor change +of clothes from my trunk, I might perhaps have found it difficult +to obtain good lodgings.</p> +<p>It was a very uncommon but pleasing sensation I experienced on +being now, for the first time in my life, entirely among +Englishmen: among people whose language was foreign, their +manners foreign, and in a foreign climate, with whom, +notwithstanding, I could converse as familiarly as though we had +been educated together from our infancy. It is certainly an +inestimable advantage to understand the language of the country +through which you travel. I did not at first give the +people I was with any reason to suspect I could speak English, +but I soon found that the more I spoke, the more attention and +regard I met with. I now occupy a large room in front on +the ground floor, which has a carpet and mats, and is very neatly +furnished; the chairs are covered with leather, and the tables +are of mahogany. Adjoining to this I have another large +room. I may do just as I please, and keep my own tea, +coffee, bread and butter, for which purpose my landlady has given +me a cupboard in my room, which locks up.</p> +<p>The family consists of the mistress of the house, her maid, +and her two sons, Jacky and Jerry; singular abbreviations for +John and Jeremiah. The eldest, Jacky, about twelve years +old, is a very lively boy, and often entertains me in the most +pleasing manner by relating to me his different employments at +school, and afterwards desiring me in my turn to relate to him +all manner of things about Germany. He repeats his +<i>amo</i>, <i>amas</i>, <i>amavi</i>, in the same singing tone +as our common school-boys. As I happened once when he was +by, to hum a lively tune, he stared at me with surprise, and then +reminded me it was Sunday; and so, that I might not forfeit his +good opinion by any appearance of levity, I gave him to +understand that, in the hurry of my journey, I had forgotten the +day. He has already shown me St. James’s Park, which +is not far from hence; and now let me give you some description +of the renowned</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>St. James’s Park</i>.</p> +<p>The park is nothing more than a semicircle, formed of an alley +of trees, which enclose a large green area in the middle of which +is a marshy pond.</p> +<p>The cows feed on this green turf, and their milk is sold here +on the spot, quite new.</p> +<p>In all the alleys or walks there are benches, where you may +rest yourself. When you come through the Horse Guards +(which is provided with several passages) into the park, on the +right hand is St. James’s Palace, or the king’s place +of residence, one of the meanest public buildings in +London. At the lower end, quite at the extremity, is the +queen’s palace, a handsome and modern building, but very +much resembling a private house. As for the rest, there are +generally everywhere about St. James’s Park very good +houses, which is a great addition to it. There is also +before the semicircle of the trees just mentioned a large vacant +space, where the soldiers are exercised.</p> +<p>How little this famous park is to be compared with our park at +Berlin, I need not mention. And yet one cannot but form a +high idea of St. James’s Park and other public places in +London; this arises, perhaps, from their having been oftener +mentioned in romances and other books than ours have. Even +the squares and streets of London are more noted and better known +than many of our principal towns.</p> +<p>But what again greatly compensates for the mediocrity of this +park, is the astonishing number of people who, towards evening in +fine weather, resort here; our finest walks are never so full +even in the midst of summer. The exquisite pleasure of +mixing freely with such a concourse of people, who are for the +most part well-dressed and handsome, I have experienced this +evening for the first time.</p> +<p>Before I went to the park I took another walk with my little +Jacky, which did not cost me much fatigue and yet was most +uncommonly interesting. I went down the little street in +which I live, to the Thames nearly at the end of it, towards the +left, a few steps led me to a singularly pretty terrace, planted +with trees, on the very brink of the river.</p> +<p>Here I had the most delightful prospect you can possibly +imagine. Before me was the Thames with all its windings, +and the stately arches of its bridges; Westminster with its +venerable abbey to the right, to the left again London, with St. +Paul’s, seemed to wind all along the windings of the +Thames, and on the other side of the water lay Southwark, which +is now also considered as part of London. Thus, from this +single spot, I could nearly at one view see the whole city, at +least that side of it towards the Thames. Not far from +hence, in this charming quarter of the town, lived the renowned +Garrick. Depend upon it I shall often visit this delightful +walk during my stay in London.</p> +<p>To-day my two Englishmen carried me to a neighbouring tavern, +or rather an eating-house, where we paid a shilling each for some +roast meat and a salad, giving at the same time nearly half as +much to the waiter, and yet this is reckoned a cheap house, and a +cheap style of living. But I believe, for the future, I +shall pretty often dine at home; I have already begun this +evening with my supper. I am now sitting by the fire in my +own room in London. The day is nearly at an end, the first +I have spent in England, and I hardly know whether I ought to +call it only one day, when I reflect what a quick and varied +succession of new and striking ideas have, in so short a time, +passed in my mind.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, 5<i>th</i> +<i>June</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> length, dearest Gedike, I am +again settled, as I have now got my trunk and all my things from +the ship, which arrived only yesterday. Not wishing to have +it taken to the Custom House, which occasions a great deal of +trouble, I was obliged to give a douceur to the officers, and +those who came on board the ship to search it. Having +pacified, as I thought, one of them with a couple of shillings, +another came forward and protested against the delivery of the +trunk upon trust till I had given him as much. To him +succeeded a third, so that it cost me six shillings, which I +willingly paid, because it would have cost me still more at the +Custom House.</p> +<p>By the side of the Thames were several porters, one of whom +took my huge heavy trunk on his shoulders with astonishing ease, +and carried it till I met a hackney coach. This I hired for +two shillings, immediately put the trunk into it, accompanying it +myself without paying anything extra for my own seat. This +is a great advantage in the English hackney coaches, that you are +allowed to take with you whatever you please, for you thus save +at least one half of what you must pay to a porter, and besides +go with it yourself, and are better accommodated. The +observations and the expressions of the common people here have +often struck me as peculiar. They are generally laconic, +but always much in earnest and significant. When I came +home, my landlady kindly recommended it to the coachman not to +ask more than was just, as I was a foreigner; to which he +answered, “Nay, if he were not a foreigner I should not +overcharge him.”</p> +<p>My letters of recommendation to a merchant here, which I could +not bring with me on account of my hasty departure from Hamburgh, +are also arrived. These have saved me a great deal of +trouble in the changing of my money. I can now take my +German money back to Germany, and when I return thither myself, +refund to the correspondent of the merchant here the sum which he +here pays me in English money. I should otherwise have been +obliged to sell my Prussian Fredericks-d’or for what they +weighed; for some few Dutch dollars which I was obliged to part +with before I got this credit they only gave me eight +shillings.</p> +<p>A foreigner has here nothing to fear from being pressed as a +sailor, unless, indeed, he should be found at any suspicious +place. A singular invention for this purpose of pressing is +a ship, which is placed on land not far from the Tower, on Tower +Hill, furnished with masts and all the appurtenances of a +ship. The persons attending this ship promise simple +country people, who happen to be standing and staring at it, to +show it to them for a trifle, and as soon as they are in, they +are secured as in a trap, and according to circumstances made +sailors of or let go again.</p> +<p>The footway, paved with large stones on both sides of the +street, appears to a foreigner exceedingly convenient and +pleasant, as one may there walk in perfect safety, in no more +danger from the prodigious crowd of carts and coaches, than if +one was in one’s own room, for no wheel dares come a +finger’s breadth upon the curb stone. However, +politeness requires you to let a lady, or any one to whom you +wish to show respect, pass, not, as we do, always to the right, +but on the side next the houses or the wall, whether that happens +to be on the right or on the left, being deemed the safest and +most convenient. You seldom see a person of any +understanding or common sense walk in the middle of the streets +in London, excepting when they cross over, which at Charing Cross +and other places, where several streets meet, is sometimes really +dangerous.</p> +<p>It has a strange appearance—especially in the Strand, +where there is a constant succession of shop after shop, and +where, not unfrequently, people of different trades inhabit the +same house—to see their doors or the tops of their windows, +or boards expressly for the purpose, all written over from top to +bottom with large painted letters. Every person, of every +trade or occupation, who owns ever so small a portion of a house, +makes a parade with a sign at his door; and there is hardly a +cobbler whose name and profession may not be read in large golden +characters by every one that passes. It is here not at all +uncommon to see on doors in one continued succession, +“Children educated here,” “Shoes mended +here,” “Foreign spirituous liquors sold here,” +and “Funerals furnished here;” of all these +inscriptions. I am sorry to observe that “Dealer in +foreign spirituous liquors” is by far the most +frequent. And indeed it is allowed by the English +themselves, that the propensity of the common people to the +drinking of brandy or gin is carried to a great excess; and I own +it struck me as a peculiar phraseology, when, to tell you that a +person is intoxicated or drunk, you hear them say, as they +generally do, that he is in liquor. In the late riots, +which even yet are hardly quite subsided, and which are still the +general topic of conversation, more people have been found dead +near empty brandy-casks in the streets, than were killed by the +musket-balls of regiments that were called in. As much as I +have seen of London within these two days, there are on the whole +I think not very many fine streets and very fine houses, but I +met everywhere a far greater number and handsomer people than one +commonly meets in Berlin. It gives me much real pleasure +when I walk from Charing Cross up the Strand, past St. +Paul’s to the Royal Exchange, to meet in the thickest crowd +persons from the highest to the lowest ranks, almost all +well-looking people, and cleanly and neatly dressed. I +rarely see even a fellow with a wheel-barrow who has not a shirt +on, and that, too, such a one as shows it has been washed; nor +even a beggar without both a shirt and shoes and stockings. +The English are certainly distinguished for cleanliness.</p> +<p>It has a very uncommon appearance in this tumult of people, +where every one, with hasty and eager step, seems to be pursuing +either his business or his pleasure, and everywhere making his +way through the crowd, to observe, as you often may, people +pushing one against another, only perhaps to see a funeral +pass. The English coffins are made very economically, +according to the exact form of the body; they are flat, and broad +at top; tapering gradually from the middle, and drawing to a +point at the feet, not very unlike the case of a violin.</p> +<p>A few dirty-looking men, who bear the coffin, endeavour to +make their way through the crowd as well as they can; and some +mourners follow. The people seem to pay as little attention +to such a procession, as if a hay-cart were driving past. +The funerals of people of distinction, and of the great, are, +however, differently regarded.</p> +<p>These funerals always appear to me the more indecent in a +populous city, from the total indifference of the beholders, and +the perfect unconcern with which they are beheld. The body +of a fellow-creature is carried to his long home as though it had +been utterly unconnected with the rest of mankind. And yet, +in a small town or village, everyone knows everyone; and no one +can be so insignificant as not to be missed when he is taken +away.</p> +<p>That same influenza which I left at Berlin, I have had the +hard fortune again to find here; and many people die of it. +It is as yet very cold for the time of the year, and I am obliged +every day to have a fire. I must own that the heat or +warmth given by sea-coal, burnt in the chimney, appears to me +softer and milder than that given by our stoves. The sight +of the fire has also a cheerful and pleasing effect. Only +you must take care not to look at it steadily, and for a +continuance, for this is probably the reason that there are so +many young old men in England, who walk and ride in the public +streets with their spectacles on; thus anticipating, in the bloom +of youth, those conveniences and comforts which were intended for +old age.</p> +<p>I now constantly dine in my own lodgings; and I cannot but +flatter myself that my meals are regulated with frugality. +My usual dish at supper is some pickled salmon, which you eat in +the liquor in which it is pickled, along with some oil and +vinegar; and he must be prejudiced or fastidious who does not +relish it as singularly well tasted and grateful food.</p> +<p>I would always advise those who wish to drink coffee in +England, to mention beforehand how many cups are to be made with +half an ounce; or else the people will probably bring them a +prodigious quantity of brown water; which (notwithstanding all my +admonitions) I have not yet been able wholly to avoid. The +fine wheaten bread which I find here, besides excellent butter +and Cheshire-cheese, makes up for my scanty dinners. For an +English dinner, to such lodgers as I am, generally consists of a +piece of half-boiled, or half-roasted meat; and a few cabbage +leaves boiled in plain water; on which they pour a sauce made of +flour and butter. This, I assure you, is the usual method +of dressing vegetables in England.</p> +<p>The slices of bread and butter, which they give you with your +tea, are as thin as poppy leaves. But there is another kind +of bread and butter usually eaten with tea, which is toasted by +the fire, and is incomparably good. You take one slice +after the other and hold it to the fire on a fork till the butter +is melted, so that it penetrates a number of slices at once: this +is called toast.</p> +<p>The custom of sleeping without a feather-bed for a covering +particularly pleased me. You here lie between two sheets: +underneath the bottom sheet is a fine blanket, which, without +oppressing you, keeps you sufficiently warm. My shoes are +not cleaned in the house, but by a person in the neighbourhood, +whose trade it is; who fetches them every morning, and brings +them back cleaned; for which she receives weekly so much. +When the maid is displeased with me, I hear her sometimes at the +door call me “the German”; otherwise in the family I +go by the name of “the Gentleman.”</p> +<p>I have almost entirely laid aside riding in a coach, although +it does not cost near so much as it does at Berlin; as I can go +and return any distance not exceeding an English mile for a +shilling, for which I should there at least pay a florin. +But, moderate as English fares are, still you save a great deal, +if you walk or go on foot, and know only how to ask your +way. From my lodging to the Royal Exchange is about as far +as from one end of Berlin to the other, and from the Tower and +St. Catharine’s, where the ships arrive in the Thames, as +far again; and I have already walked this distance twice, when I +went to look after my trunk before I got it out of the +ship. As it was quite dark when I came back the first +evening, I was astonished at the admirable manner in which the +streets are lighted up; compared to which our streets in Berlin +make a most miserable show. The lamps are lighted whilst it +is still daylight, and are so near each other, that even on the +most ordinary and common nights, the city has the appearance of a +festive illumination, for which some German prince, who came to +London for the first time, once, they say, actually took it, and +seriously believed it to have been particularly ordered on +account of his arrival.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>The</i> 9<i>th</i> <i>June</i>, +1782.</p> +<p>I <span class="smcap">preached</span> this day at the German +church on Ludgate Hill, for the Rev. Mr. Wendeborn. He is +the author of “Die statischen Beyträge zur nähern +Kentniss Grossbrittaniens.” This valuable book has +already been of uncommon service to me, and I cannot but +recommend it to everyone who goes to England. It is the +more useful, as you can with ease carry it in your pocket, and +you find in it information on every subject. It is natural +to suppose that Mr. Wendeborn, who has now been a length of time +in England, must have been able more frequently, and with greater +exactness to make his observations, than those who only pass +through, or make a very short stay. It is almost impossible +for anyone, who has this book always at hand, to omit anything +worthy of notice in or about London; or not to learn all that is +most material to know of the state and situation of the kingdom +in general.</p> +<p>Mr. Wendeborn lives in New Inn, near Temple Bar, in a +philosophical, but not unimproving, retirement. He is +almost become a native; and his library consists chiefly of +English books. Before I proceed, I must just mention, that +he has not hired, but bought his apartments in this great +building, called New Inn: and this, I believe, is pretty +generally the case with the lodgings in this place. A +purchaser of any of these rooms is considered as a proprietor; +and one who has got a house and home, and has a right, in +parliamentary or other elections, to give his vote, if he is not +a foreigner, which is the case with Mr. Wendeborn, who, +nevertheless, was visited by Mr. Fox when he was to be chosen +member for Westminster.</p> +<p>I saw, for the first time, at Mr. Wendeborn’s, a very +useful machine, which is little known in Germany, or at least not +much used.</p> +<p>This is a press in which, by means of very strong iron +springs, a written paper may be printed on another blank paper, +and you thus save yourself the trouble of copying; and at the +same time multiply your own handwriting. Mr. Wendeborn +makes use of this machine every time he sends manuscripts abroad, +of which he wishes to keep a copy. This machine was of +mahogany, and cost pretty high. I suppose it is because the +inhabitants of London rise so late, that divine service begin +only at half-past ten o’clock. I missed Mr. Wendeborn +this morning, and was therefore obliged to enquire of the +door-keeper at St. Paul’s for a direction to the German +church, where I was to preach. He did not know it. I +then asked at another church, not far from thence. Here I +was directed right, and after I had passed through an iron gate +to the end of a long passage, I arrived just in time at the +church, where, after the sermon, I was obliged to read a public +thanksgiving for the safe arrival of our ship. The German +clergy here dress exactly the same as the English +clergy—<i>i.e.</i>, in long robes with wide +sleeves—in which I likewise was obliged to wrap +myself. Mr. Wendeborn wears his own hair, which curls +naturally, and the toupee is combed up.</p> +<p>The other German clergymen whom I have seen wear wigs, as well +as many of the English.</p> +<p>I yesterday waited on our ambassador, Count Lucy, and was +agreeably surprised at the simplicity of his manner of +living. He lives in a small private house. His +secretary lives upstairs, where also I met with the Prussian +consul, who happened just then to be paying him a visit. +Below, on the right hand, I was immediately shown into his +Excellency’s room, without being obliged to pass through an +antechamber. He wore a blue coat, with a red collar and red +facings. He conversed with me, as we drank a dish of +coffee, on various learned topics; and when I told him of the +great dispute now going on about the <i>tacismus</i> or +<i>stacismus</i>, he declared himself, as a born Greek, for the +<i>stacismus</i>.</p> +<p>When I came to take my leave, he desired me to come and see +him without ceremony whenever it suited me, as he should be +always happy to see me.</p> +<p>Mr. Leonhard, who has translated several celebrated English +plays, such as “The School for Scandal,” and some +others, lives here as a private person, instructing Germans in +English, and Englishmen in German, with great ability. He +also it is who writes the articles concerning England for the new +Hamburgh newspaper, for which he is paid a stated yearly +stipend. I may add also, that he is the master of a German +Freemasons’ lodge in London, and representative of all the +German lodges in England—an employment of far more trouble +than profit to him, for all the world applies to him in all cases +and emergencies. I also was recommended to him from +Hamburgh. He is a very complaisant man, and has already +shown me many civilities. He repeats English poetry with +great propriety, and speaks the language nearly with the same +facility as he does his mother language. He is married to +an amiable Englishwoman. I wish him all possible +happiness. And now let me tell you something of the so +often imitated, but perhaps inimitable</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Vauxhall</i>.</p> +<p>I yesterday visited Vauxhall for the first time. I had +not far to go from my lodgings, in the Adelphi Buildings, to +Westminster Bridge, where you always find a great number of boats +on the Thames, which are ready on the least signal to serve those +who will pay them a shilling or sixpence, or according to the +distance.</p> +<p>From hence I went up the Thames to Vauxhall, and as I passed +along I saw Lambeth; and the venerable old palace belonging to +the archbishops of Canterbury lying on my left.</p> +<p>Vauxhall is, properly speaking, the name of a little village +in which the garden, now almost exclusively bearing the same +name, is situated. You pay a shilling entrance.</p> +<p>On entering it, I really found, or fancied I found, some +resemblance to our Berlin Vauxhall, if, according to Virgil, I +may be permitted to compare small things with great ones. +The walks at least, with the paintings at the end, and the high +trees, which, here and there form a beautiful grove, or wood, on +either side, were so similar to those of Berlin, that often, as I +walked along them, I seemed to transport myself, in imagination, +once more to Berlin, and forgot for a moment that immense seas, +and mountains, and kingdoms now lie between us. I was the +more tempted to indulge in this reverie as I actually met with +several gentlemen, inhabitants of Berlin, in particular Mr. +S—r, and some others, with whom I spent the evening in the +most agreeable manner. Here and there (particularly in one +of the charming woods which art has formed in this garden) you +are pleasingly surprised by the sudden appearance of the statues +of the most renowned English poets and philosophers, such as +Milton, Thomson, and others. But, what gave me most +pleasure was the statue of the German composer Handel, which, on +entering the garden, is not far distant from the orchestra.</p> +<p>This orchestra is among a number of trees situated as in a +little wood, and is an exceedingly handsome one. As you +enter the garden, you immediately hear the sound of vocal and +instrumental music. There are several female singers +constantly hired here to sing in public.</p> +<p>On each side of the orchestra are small boxes, with tables and +benches, in which you sup. The walks before these, as well +as in every other part of the garden, are crowded with people of +all ranks. I supped here with Mr. S—r, and the +secretary of the Prussian ambassador, besides a few other +gentlemen from Berlin; but what most astonished me was the +boldness of the women of the town, who often rushed in upon us by +half dozens, and in the most shameless manner importuned us for +wine, for themselves and their followers. Our gentlemen +thought it either unwise, unkind, or unsafe, to refuse them so +small a boon altogether.</p> +<p>Latish in the evening we were entertained with a sight, that +is indeed singularly curious and interesting. In a +particular part of the garden a curtain was drawn up, and by +means of some mechanism of extraordinary ingenuity, the eye and +the ear are so completely deceived, that it is not easy to +persuade one’s self it is a deception, and that one does +not actually see and hear a natural waterfall from a high +rock. As everyone was flocking to this scene in crowds, +there arose all at once a loud cry of “Take care of your +pockets.” This informed us, but too clearly, that +there were some pickpockets among the crowd, who had already made +some fortunate strokes.</p> +<p>The rotunda, a magnificent circular building in the garden, +particularly engaged my attention. By means of beautiful +chandeliers, and large mirrors, it was illuminated in the most +superb manner; and everywhere decorated with delightful +paintings, and statues, in the contemplation of which you may +spend several hours very agreeably, when you are tired of the +crowd and the bustle, in the walks of the garden.</p> +<p>Among the paintings one represents the surrender of a besieged +city. If you look at this painting with attention, for any +length of time, it affects you so much that you even shed +tears. The expression of the greatest distress, even +bordering on despair, on the part of the besieged, the fearful +expectation of the uncertain issue, and what the victor will +determine concerning those unfortunate people, may all be read so +plainly, and so naturally in the countenances of the inhabitants, +who are imploring for mercy, from the hoary head to the suckling +whom his mother holds up, that you quite forget yourself, and in +the end scarcely believe it to be a painting before you.</p> +<p>You also here find the busts of the best English authors, +placed all round on the sides. Thus a Briton again meets +with his Shakespeare, Locke, Milton, and Dryden in the public +places of his amusements; and there also reveres their +memory. Even the common people thus become familiar with +the names of those who have done honour to their nation; and are +taught to mention them with veneration. For this rotunda is +also an orchestra in which the music is performed in rainy +weather. But enough of Vauxhall!</p> +<p>Certain it is that the English classical authors are read more +generally, beyond all comparison, than the German; which in +general are read only by the learned; or, at most, by the middle +class of people. The English national authors are in all +hands, and read by all people, of which the innumerable editions +they have gone through are a sufficient proof.</p> +<p>My landlady, who is only a tailor’s widow, reads her +Milton; and tells me, that her late husband first fell in love +with her on this very account: because she read Milton with such +proper emphasis. This single instance, perhaps, would prove +but little; but I have conversed with several people of the lower +class, who all knew their national authors, and who all have read +many, if not all, of them. This elevates the lower ranks, +and brings them nearer to the higher. There is hardly any +argument or dispute in conversation, in the higher ranks, about +which the lower cannot also converse or give their opinion. +Now, in Germany, since Gellert, there has as yet been no +poet’s name familiar to the people. But the quick +sale of the classical authors is here promoted also by cheap and +convenient editions. They have them all bound in pocket +volumes, as well as in a more pompous style. I myself +bought Milton in duodecimo for two shillings, neatly bound; it is +such a one as I can, with great convenience, carry in my +pocket. It also appears to me to be a good fashion, which +prevails here, and here only, that the books which are most read, +are always to be had already well and neatly bound. At +stalls, and in the streets, you every now and then meet with a +sort of antiquarians, who sell single or odd volumes; sometimes +perhaps of Shakespeare, etc., so low as a penny; nay, even +sometimes for a halfpenny a piece. Of one of these +itinerant antiquarians I bought the two volumes of the Vicar of +Wakefield for sixpence, <i>i.e.</i> for the half of an English +shilling. In what estimation our German literature is held +in England, I was enabled to judge, in some degree, by the +printed proposals of a book which I saw. The title was, +“The Entertaining Museum, or Complete Circulating +Library,” which is to contain a list of all the English +classical authors, as well as translations of the best French, +Spanish, Italian, and even German novels.</p> +<p>The moderate price of this book deserves also to be noticed; +as by such means books in England come more within the reach of +the people; and of course are more generally distributed among +them. The advertisement mentions that in order that +everyone may have it in his power to buy this work, and at once +to furnish himself with a very valuable library, without +perceiving the expense, a number will be sent out weekly, which, +stitched, costs sixpence, and bound with the title on the back, +ninepence. The twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth numbers +contain the first and second volume of the Vicar of Wakefield, +which I had just bought of the antiquarian above-mentioned.</p> +<p>The only translation from the German which has been +particularly successful in England, is Gesner’s +“Death of Abel.” The translation of that work +has been oftener reprinted in England than ever the original was +in Germany. I have actually seen the eighteenth edition of +it; and if the English preface is to be regarded, it was written +by a lady. “Klopstock’s Messiah,” as is +well known, has been here but ill received; to be sure, they say +it is but indifferently translated. I have not yet been +able to obtain a sight of it. The Rev. Mr. Wendeborn has +written a grammar for the German language in English, for the use +of Englishmen, which has met with much applause.</p> +<p>I must not forget to mention, that the works of Mr. Jacob +Boehmen are all translated into English.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, 13<i>th</i> +<i>June</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Often</span> as I had heard Ranelagh +spoken of, I had yet formed only an imperfect idea of it. I +supposed it to be a garden somewhat different from that of +Vauxhall; but, in fact, I hardly knew what I thought of it. +Yesterday evening I took a walk in order to visit this famous +place of amusement; but I missed my way and got to Chelsea; where +I met a man with a wheel-barrow, who not only very civilly showed +me the right road, but also conversed with me the whole of the +distance which we walked together. And finding, upon +enquiry, that I was a subject of the King of Prussia, he desired +me, with much eagerness, to relate to him some anecdotes +concerning that mighty monarch. At length I arrived at +Ranelagh; and having paid my half-crown on entrance, I soon +enquired for the garden door, and it was readily shown to me; +when, to my infinite astonishment, I found myself in a poor, +mean-looking, and ill-lighted garden, where I met but few +people. I had not been here long before I was accosted by a +young lady, who also was walking there, and who, without +ceremony, offered me her arm, asking me why I walked thus +solitarily? I now concluded, this could not possibly be the +splendid, much-boasted Ranelagh; and so, seeing not far from me a +number of people entering a door, I followed them, in hopes +either to get out again, or to vary the scene.</p> +<p>But it is impossible to describe, or indeed to conceive, the +effect it had on me, when, coming out of the gloom of the garden, +I suddenly entered a round building, illuminated by many hundred +lamps; the splendour and beauty of which surpassed everything of +the kind I had ever seen before. Everything seemed here to +be round; above, there was a gallery divided into boxes; and in +one part of it an organ with a beautiful choir, from which issued +both instrumental and vocal music. All around, under this +gallery, are handsome painted boxes for those who wish to take +refreshments: the floor was covered with mats, in the middle of +which are four high black pillars; within which there are neat +fire-places for preparing tea, coffee and punch; and all around, +also, there are placed tables, set out with all kinds of +refreshments. Within these four pillars, in a kind of magic +rotundo, all the beau-monde of London move perpetually round and +round.</p> +<p>I at first mixed with this immense concourse of people, of all +sexes, ages, countries, and characters; and I must confess, that +the incessant change of faces, the far greater number of which +were strikingly beautiful, together with the illumination, the +extent and majestic splendour of the place, with the continued +sound of the music, makes an inconceivably delightful impression +on the imagination; and I take the liberty to add, that, on +seeing it now for the first time, I felt pretty nearly the same +sensations that I remember to have felt when, in early youth, I +first read the Fairy Tales.</p> +<p>Being, however, at length tired of the crowd, and being tired +also with always moving round and round in a circle, I sat myself +down in one of the boxes, in order to take some refreshment, and +was now contemplating at my ease this prodigious collection and +crowd of a happy, cheerful world, who were here enjoying +themselves devoid of care, when a waiter very civilly asked me +what refreshments I wished to have, and in a few moments returned +with what I asked for. To my astonishment he would accept +no money for these refreshments; which I could not comprehend, +till he told me that everything was included in the half-crown I +had paid at the door; and that I had only to command if I wished +for anything more; but that if I pleased, I might give him as a +present a trifling douceur. This I gave him with pleasure, +as I could not help fancying I was hardly entitled to so much +civility and good attention for one single half-crown.</p> +<p>I now went up into the gallery, and seated myself in one of +the boxes there; and from thence becoming all at once a grave and +moralising spectator, I looked down on the concourse of people +who were still moving round and round in the fairy circle; and +then I could easily distinguish several stars and other orders of +knighthood; French queues and bags contrasted with plain English +heads of hair, or professional wigs; old age and youth, nobility +and commonalty, all passing each other in the motley swarm. +An Englishman who joined me during this my reverie, pointed out +to me on my enquiring, princes and lords with their dazzling +stars; with which they eclipsed the less brilliant part of the +company.</p> +<p>Here some moved round in an eternal circle to see and be seen; +there a group of eager connoisseurs had placed themselves before +the orchestra and were feasting their ears, while others at the +well-supplied tables were regaling the parched roofs of their +mouths in a more substantial manner, and again others, like +myself, were sitting alone, in the corner of a box in the +gallery, making their remarks and reflections on so interesting a +scene.</p> +<p>I now and then indulged myself in the pleasure of exchanging, +for some minutes, all this magnificence and splendour for the +gloom of the garden, in order to renew the pleasing surprise I +experienced on my first entering the building. Thus I spent +here some hours in the night in a continual variation of +entertainment; when the crowd now all at once began to lessen, +and I also took a coach and drove home.</p> +<p>At Ranelagh the company appeared to me much better, and more +select than at Vauxhall; for those of the lower class who go +there, always dress themselves in their best, and thus endeavour +to copy the great. Here I saw no one who had not silk +stockings on. Even the poorest families are at the expense +of a coach to go to Ranelagh, as my landlady assured me. +She always fixed on some one day in the year, on which, without +fail, she drove to Ranelagh. On the whole the expense at +Ranelagh is nothing near so great as it is at Vauxhall, if you +consider the refreshments; for any one who sups at Vauxhall, +which most people do, is likely, for a very moderate supper, to +pay at least half-a-guinea.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>The Parliament</i>.</p> +<p>I had almost forgotten to tell you that I have already been to +the Parliament House; and yet this is of most importance. +For, had I seen nothing else in England but this, I should have +thought my journey thither amply rewarded.</p> +<p>As little as I have hitherto troubled myself with politics, +because indeed with us it is but little worth our while, I was +however desirous of being present at a meeting of +parliament—a wish that was soon amply gratified.</p> +<p>One afternoon, about three o’clock, at which hour, or +thereabouts, the house most commonly meets, I enquired for +Westminster Hall, and was very politely directed by an +Englishman. These directions are always given with the +utmost kindness. You may ask whom you please, if you can +only make yourself tolerably well understood; and by thus asking +every now and then, you may with the greatest ease find your way +throughout all London.</p> +<p>Westminster Hall is an enormous Gothic building, whose vaulted +roof is supported, not by pillars, but instead of these there +are, on each side, large unnatural heads of angels, carved in +wood, which seem to support the roof.</p> +<p>When you have passed through this long hall, you ascend a few +steps at the end, and are led through a dark passage into the +House of Commons, which, below, has a large double-door; and +above, there is a small staircase, by which you go to the +gallery, the place allotted for strangers.</p> +<p>The first time I went up this small staircase, and had reached +the rails, I saw a very genteel man in black standing +there. I accosted him without any introduction, and I asked +him whether I might be allowed to go into the gallery. He +told me that I must be introduced by a member, or else I could +not get admission there. Now, as I had not the honour to be +acquainted with a member, I was under the mortifying necessity of +retreating, and again going down-stairs, as I did much +chagrined. And now, as I was sullenly marching back, I +heard something said about a bottle of wine, which seemed to be +addressed to me.</p> +<p>I could not conceive what it could mean, till I got home, when +my obliging landlady told me I should have given the well-dressed +man half-a-crown, or a couple of shillings for a bottle of +wine. Happy in this information, I went again the next day; +when the same man who before had sent me away, after I had given +him only two shillings, very politely opened the door for me, and +himself recommended me to a good seat in the gallery.</p> +<p>And thus I now, for the first time, saw the whole of the +British nation assembled in its representatives, in rather a +mean-looking building, that not a little resembles a +chapel. The Speaker, an elderly man, with an enormous wig, +with two knotted kind of tresses, or curls, behind, in a black +cloak, his hat on his head, sat opposite to me on a lofty chair; +which was not unlike a small pulpit, save only that in the front +of there was no reading-desk. Before the Speaker’s +chair stands a table, which looks like an altar; and at this +there sit two men, called clerks, dressed in black, with black +cloaks. On the table, by the side of the great parchment +acts, lies a huge gilt sceptre, which is always taken away, and +placed in a conservatory under the table, as soon as ever the +Speaker quits the chair; which he does as often as the House +resolves itself into a committee. A committee means nothing +more than that the House puts itself into a situation freely to +discuss and debate any point of difficulty and moment, and, while +it lasts, the Speaker partly lays aside his power as a +legislator. As soon as this is over, some one tells the +Speaker that he may now again be seated; and immediately on the +Speaker being again in the chair, the sceptre is also replaced on +the table before him.</p> +<p>All round on the sides of the house, under the gallery, are +benches for the members, covered with green cloth, always one +above the other, like our choirs in churches, in order that he +who is speaking may see over those who sit before him. The +seats in the gallery are on the same plan. The members of +parliament keep their hats on, but the spectators in the gallery +are uncovered.</p> +<p>The members of the House of Commons have nothing particular in +their dress. They even come into the House in their great +coats, and with boots and spurs. It is not at all uncommon +to see a member lying stretched out on one of the benches while +others are debating. Some crack nuts, others eat oranges, +or whatever else is in season. There is no end to their +going in and out; and as often as any one wishes to go out, he +places himself before the Speaker, and makes him his bow, as if, +like a schoolboy, he asked tutor’s permission.</p> +<p>Those who speak seem to deliver themselves with but little, +perhaps not always with even a decorous, gravity. All that +is necessary is to stand up in your place, take off your hat, +turn to the Speaker (to whom all the speeches are addressed), to +hold your hat and stick in one hand, and with the other to make +any such motions as you fancy necessary to accompany your +speech.</p> +<p>If it happens that a member rises who is but a bad speaker, or +if what he says is generally deemed not sufficiently interesting, +so much noise is made, and such bursts of laughter are raised, +that the member who is speaking can scarcely distinguish his own +words. This must needs be a distressing situation; and it +seems then to be particularly laughable, when the Speaker in his +chair, like a tutor in a school, again and again endeavours to +restore order, which he does by calling out “<i>To +order</i>, <i>to order</i>,” apparently often without much +attention being paid to it.</p> +<p>On the contrary, when a favourite member, and one who speaks +well and to the purpose, rises, the most perfect silence reigns, +and his friends and admirers, one after another, make their +approbation known by calling out, “<i>Hear him</i>,” +which is often repeated by the whole House at once; and in this +way so much noise is often made that the speaker is frequently +interrupted by this same emphatic “<i>Hear +him</i>.” Notwithstanding which, this calling out is +always regarded as a great encouragement; and I have often +observed that one who began with some diffidence, and even +somewhat inauspiciously, has in the end been so animated that he +has spoken with a torrent of eloquence.</p> +<p>As all speeches are directed to the Speaker, all the members +always preface their speeches with “<i>Sir</i>” and +he, on being thus addressed, generally moves his hat a little, +but immediately puts it on again. This +“<i>Sir</i>” is often introduced in the course of +their speeches, and serves to connect what is said. It +seems also to stand the orator in some stead when any one’s +memory fails him, or he is otherwise at a loss for matter. +For while he is saying “<i>Sir</i>,” and has thus +obtained a little pause, he recollects what is to follow. +Yet I have sometimes seen some members draw a kind of +memorandum-book out of their pockets, like a candidate who is at +a loss in his sermon. This is the only instance in which a +member of the British parliament seems to read his speeches.</p> +<p>The first day that I was at the House of Commons an English +gentleman who sat next to me in the gallery very obligingly +pointed out to me the principal members, such as Fox, Burke, +Rigby, etc., all of whom I heard speak. The debate happened +to be whether, besides being made a peer, any other specific +reward should be bestowed by the nation on their gallant admiral +Rodney. In the course of the debate, I remember, Mr. Fox +was very sharply reprimanded by young Lord Fielding for having, +when minister, opposed the election of Admiral Hood as a member +for Westminster.</p> +<p>Fox was sitting to the right of the Speaker, not far from the +table on which the gilt sceptre lay. He now took his place +so near it that he could reach it with his hand, and, thus +placed, he gave it many a violent and hearty thump, either to +aid, or to show the energy with which he spoke. If the +charge was vehement, his defence was no less so. He +justified himself against Lord Fielding by maintaining that he +had not opposed this election in the character of a minister, but +as an individual, or private person; and that, as such, he had +freely and honestly given his vote for another—namely, for +Sir Cecil Wray, adding that the King, when he appointed him +Secretary of State, had entered into no agreement with him by +which he lost his vote as an individual; to such a requisition he +never would have submitted. It is impossible for me to +describe with what fire and persuasive eloquence he spoke, and +how the Speaker in the chair incessantly nodded approbation from +beneath his solemn wig, and innumerable voices incessantly called +out, “Hear him! hear him!” and when there was the +least sign that he intended to leave off speaking they no less +vociferously exclaimed, “Go on;” and so he continued +to speak in this manner for nearly two hours. Mr. Rigby, in +reply, made a short but humorous speech, in which he mentioned of +how little consequence the title of “lord” and +“lady” was without money to support it, and finished +with the Latin proverb, “infelix paupertas—quia +ridiculos miseros facit.” After having first very +judiciously observed that previous inquiry should be made whether +Admiral Rodney had made any rich prizes or captures; because, if +that should be the case, he would not stand in need of further +reward in money. I have since been almost every day at the +parliament house, and prefer the entertainment I there meet with +to most other amusements.</p> +<p>Fox is still much beloved by the people, notwithstanding that +they are (and certainly with good reason) displeased at his being +the cause of Admiral Rodney’s recall, though even I have +heard him again and again almost extravagant in his encomiums on +this noble admiral. The same celebrated Charles Fox is a +short, fat, and gross man, with a swarthy complexion, and dark; +and in general he is badly dressed. There certainly is +something Jewish in his looks. But upon the whole, he is +not an ill-made nor an ill-looking man, and there are many strong +marks of sagacity and fire in his eyes. I have frequently +heard the people here say that this same Mr. Fox is as cunning as +a fox. Burke is a well-made, tall, upright man, but looks +elderly and broken. Rigby is excessively corpulent, and has +a jolly rubicund face.</p> +<p>The little less than downright open abuse, and the many really +rude things which the members said to each other, struck me +much. For example, when one has finished, another rises, +and immediately taxes with absurdity all that the right +honourable gentleman (for with this title the members of the +House of Commons always honour each other) had just +advanced. It would, indeed, be contrary to the rules of the +House flatly to tell each other that what they have spoken is +<i>false</i>, or even <i>foolish</i>. Instead of this, they +turn themselves, as usual, to the Speaker, and so, whilst their +address is directed to him, they fancy they violate neither the +rules of parliament nor those of good breeding and decorum, +whilst they utter the most cutting personal sarcasms against the +member or the measure they oppose.</p> +<p>It is quite laughable to see, as one sometimes does, one +member speaking, and another accompanying the speech with his +action. This I remarked more than once in a worthy old +citizen, who was fearful of speaking himself, but when his +neighbour spoke he accompanied every energetic sentence with a +suitable gesticulation, by which means his whole body was +sometimes in motion.</p> +<p>It often happens that the jett, or principal point in the +debate is lost in these personal contests and bickerings between +each other. When they last so long as to become quite +tedious and tiresome, and likely to do harm rather than good, the +House takes upon itself to express its disapprobation; and then +there arises a general cry of, “The question! the +question!” This must sometimes be frequently +repeated, as the contending members are both anxious to have the +last word. At length, however, the question is put, and the +votes taken, when the Speaker says, “Those who are for the +question are to say <i>aye</i>, and those who are against it +<i>no</i>.” You then hear a confused cry of +“<i>aye</i>” and “<i>no</i>” but at +length the Speaker says, “I think there are more +<i>ayes</i> than <i>noes</i>, or more <i>noes</i> than +<i>ayes</i>. The <i>ayes</i> have it; or the <i>noes</i> +have it,” as the case may be. But all the spectators +must then retire from the gallery; for then, and not till then, +the voting really commences. And now the members call aloud +to the gallery, “Withdraw! withdraw!” On this +the strangers withdraw, and are shut up in a small room at the +foot of the stairs till the voting is over, when they are again +permitted to take their places in the gallery. Here I could +not help wondering at the impatience even of polished +Englishmen. It is astonishing with what violence, and even +rudeness, they push and jostle one another as soon as the room +door is again opened, eager to gain the first and best seats in +the gallery. In this manner we (the strangers) have +sometimes been sent away two or three times in the course of one +day, or rather evening, afterwards again permitted to +return. Among these spectators are people of all ranks, and +even, not unfrequently, ladies. Two shorthand writers have +sat sometimes not far distant from me, who (though it is rather +by stealth) endeavour to take down the words of the speaker; and +thus all that is very remarkable in what is said in parliament +may generally be read in print the next day. The shorthand +writers, whom I noticed, are supposed to be employed and paid by +the editors of the different newspapers. There are, it +seems, some few persons who are constant attendants on the +parliament; and so they pay the door-keeper beforehand a guinea +for a whole session. I have now and then seen some of the +members bring their sons, whilst quite little boys, and carry +them to their seats along with themselves.</p> +<p>A proposal was once made to erect a gallery in the House of +Peers also for the accommodation of spectators. But this +never was carried into effect. There appears to be much +more politeness and more courteous behaviour in the members of +the upper House. But he who wishes to observe mankind, and +to contemplate the leading traits of the different characters +most strongly marked, will do well to attend frequently the +lower, rather than the other, House.</p> +<p>Last Tuesday was (what is here called) hanging-day. +There was also a parliamentary election. I could only see +one of the two sights, and therefore naturally preferred the +latter, while I only heard tolling at a distance the death-bell +of the sacrifice to justice. I now, therefore, am going to +describe to you, as well as can, an</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Election for a Member of +Parliament</i>.</p> +<p>The cities of London and Westminster send, the one four, and +the other two, members to parliament. Mr. Fox is one of the +two members for Westminster. One seat was vacant, and that +vacancy was now to be filled. And the same Sir Cecil Wray, +whom Fox had before opposed to Lord Hood, was now publicly +chosen. They tell me that at these elections, when there is +a strong opposition party, there is often bloody work; but this +election was, in the electioneering phrase, a “hollow +thing”—<i>i.e.</i> quite sure, as those who had voted +for Admiral Hood now withdrew, without standing a poll, as being +convinced beforehand their chance to succeed was desperate.</p> +<p>The election was held in Covent Garden, a large market-place +in the open air. There was a scaffold erected just before +the door of a very handsome church, which is also called St. +Paul’s, but which, however, is not to be compared to the +cathedral.</p> +<p>A temporary edifice, formed only of boards and wood nailed +together, was erected on the occasion. It was called the +hustings, and filled with benches; and at one end of it, where +the benches ended, mats were laid, on which those who spoke to +the people stood. In the area before the hustings immense +multitudes of people were assembled, of whom the greatest part +seemed to be of the lowest order. To this tumultuous crowd, +however, the speakers often bowed very low, and always addressed +them by the title of “gentlemen.” Sir Cecil +Wray was obliged to step forward and promise these same +gentlemen, with hand and heart, that he would faithfully fulfil +his duties as their representative. He also made an apology +because, on account of his long journey and ill-health, he had +not been able to wait on them, as became him, at their respective +houses. The moment that he began to speak, even this rude +rabble became all as quiet as the raging sea after a storm, only +every now and then rending the air with the parliamentary cry of +“Hear him! hear him!” and as soon as he had done +speaking, they again vociferated aloud an universal +“<i>huzza</i>,” every one at the same time waving his +hat.</p> +<p>And now, being formally declared to have been legally chosen, +he again bowed most profoundly, and returned thanks for the great +honour done him, when a well-dressed man, whose name I could not +learn, stepped forward, and in a well-indited speech +congratulated both the chosen and the choosers. “Upon +my word,” said a gruff carter who stood near me, +“that man speaks well.”</p> +<p>Even little boys clambered up and hung on the rails and on the +lamp-posts; and as if the speeches had also been addressed to +them, they too listened with the utmost attention, and they too +testified their approbation of it by joining lustily in the three +cheers and waving their hats.</p> +<p>All the enthusiasm of my earliest years kindled by the +patriotism of the illustrious heroes of Rome. Coriolanus, +Julius Cæsar, and Antony were now revived in my mind; and +though all I had just seen and heard be, in fact, but the +semblance of liberty, and that, too, tribunitial liberty, yet at +that moment I thought it charming, and it warmed my heart. +Yes, depend on it, my friend, when you here see how, in the happy +country, the lowest and meanest member of society thus +unequivocally testifies the interest which he takes in everything +of a public nature; when you see how even women and children bear +a part in the great concerns of their country; in short, how high +and low, rich and poor, all concur in declaring their feelings +and their convictions that a carter, a common tar, or a +scavenger, is still a man—nay, an Englishman, and as such +has his rights and privileges defined and known as exactly and as +well as his king, or as his king’s minister—take my +word for it, you will feel yourself very differently affected +from what you are when staring at our soldiers in their exercises +at Berlin.</p> +<p>When Fox, who was among the voters, arrived at the beginning +of the election, he too was received with an universal shout of +joy. At length, when it was nearly over, the people took it +into their heads to hear him speak, and every one called out, +“Fox! Fox!” I know not why, but I seemed +to catch some of the spirit of the place and time, and so I also +bawled “Fox! Fox!” and he was obliged to come +forward and speak, for no other reason that I could find but that +the people wished to hear him speak. In this speech he +again confirmed, in the presence of the people, his former +declaration in parliament, that he by no means had any influence +as minister of State in this election, but only and merely as a +private person.</p> +<p>When the whole was over, the rampant spirit of liberty and the +wild impatience of a genuine English mob were exhibited in +perfection. In a very few minutes the whole scaffolding, +benches, and chairs, and everything else, was completely +destroyed, and the mat with which it had been covered torn into +ten thousand long strips, or pieces, or strings, with which they +encircled or enclosed multitudes of people of all ranks. +These they hurried along with them, and everything else that came +in their way, as trophies of joy; and thus, in the midst of +exultation and triumph, they paraded through many of the most +populous streets of London.</p> +<p>Whilst in Prussia poets only speak of the love of country as +one of the dearest of all human affections, here there is no man +who does not feel, and describe with rapture, how much he loves +his country. “Yes, for my country I’ll shed the +last drop of my blood!” often exclaims little Jacky, the +fine boy here in the house where I live, who is yet only about +twelve years old. The love of their country, and its +unparalleled feats in war are, in general, the subject of their +ballads and popular songs, which are sung about the streets by +women, who sell them for a few farthings. It was only the +other day our Jacky brought one home, in which the history of an +admiral was celebrated who bravely continued to command, even +after his two legs were shot off and he was obliged to be +supported. I know not well by what means it has happened +that the King of England, who is certainly one of the best the +nation ever had, is become unpopular. I know not how many +times I have heard people of all sorts object to their king at +the same time that they praised the King of Prussia to the +skies. Indeed, with some the veneration for our monarch +went so far that they seriously wished he was their king. +All that seems to shock and dishearten them is the prodigious +armies he keeps up, and the immense number of soldiers quartered +in Berlin alone. Whereas in London, at least in the city, +not a single troop of soldiers of the King’s guard dare +make their appearance.</p> +<p>A few days ago I saw what is here deemed a great +sight—viz., a lord mayor’s procession. The lord +mayor was in an enormous large gilt coach, which was followed by +an astonishing number of most showy carriages, in which the rest +of the city magistrates, more properly called aldermen of London, +were seated. But enough for the present.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, <i>June</i> +17<i>th</i>, 1782.</p> +<p>I <span class="smcap">have</span> now been pretty nearly all +over London, and, according to my own notions, have now seen most +of the things I was most anxious to see. Hereafter, then, I +propose to make an excursion into the country; and this purpose, +by the blessing of God, I hope to be able to carry into effect in +a very few days, for my curiosity is here almost satiated. +I seem to be tired and sick of the smoke of these sea-coal fires, +and I long, with almost childish impatience, once more to breathe +a fresher and clearer air.</p> +<p>It must, I think, be owned, that upon the whole, London is +neither so handsomely nor so well built as Berlin is; but then it +certainly has far more fine squares. Of these there are +many that in real magnificence and beautiful symmetry far surpass +our Gens d’Armes Markt, our Denhoschen and William’s +Place. The squares or quadrangular places contain the best +and most beautiful buildings of London; a spacious street, next +to the houses, goes all round them, and within that there is +generally a round grass-plot, railed in with iron rails, in the +centre of which, in many of them, there is a statue, which +statues most commonly are equestrian and gilt. In Grosvenor +Square, instead of this green plot or area, there is a little +circular wood, intended, no doubt, to give one the idea of <i>rus +in urbe</i>.</p> +<p>One of the longest and pleasantest walks I have yet taken is +from Paddington to Islington; where to the left you have a fine +prospect of the neighbouring hills, and in particular of the +village of Hampstead, which is built on one of them; and to the +right the streets of London furnish an endless variety of +interesting views. It is true that it is dangerous to walk +here alone, especially in the afternoon and in an evening, or at +night, for it was only last week that a man was robbed and +murdered on this very same road. But I now hasten to +another and a more pleasing topic:</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>The British Museum</i>.</p> +<p>I have had the happiness to become acquainted with the Rev. +Mr. Woide; who, though well known all over Europe to be one of +the most learned men of the age, is yet, if possible, less +estimable for his learning than he is for his unaffected goodness +of heart. He holds a respectable office in the museum, and +was obliging enough to procure me permission to see it, luckily +the day before it was shut up. In general you must give in +your name a fortnight before you can he admitted. But after +all, I am sorry to say, it was the rooms, the glass cases, the +shelves, or the repository for the books in the British Museum +which I saw, and not the museum itself, we were hurried on so +rapidly through the apartments. The company, who saw it +when and as I did, was various, and some of all sorts; some, I +believe, of the very lowest classes of the people, of both sexes; +for, as it is the property of the nation, every one has the same +right (I use the term of the country) to see it that another +has. I had Mr. Wendeborn’s book in my pocket, and it, +at least, enabled me to take a somewhat more particular notice of +some of the principal things; such as the Egyptian mummy, a head +of Homer, &c. The rest of the company, observing that I +had some assistance which they had not, soon gathered round me; I +pointed out to them as we went along, from Mr. Wendeborn’s +German book, what there was most worth seeing here. The +gentleman who conducted us took little pains to conceal the +contempt which he felt for my communications when he found out +that it was only a German description of the British Museum I had +got. The rapidly passing through this vast suite of rooms, +in a space of time little, if at all, exceeding an hour, with +leisure just to cast one poor longing look of astonishment on all +these stupendous treasures of natural curiosities, antiquities, +and literature, in the contemplation of which you could with +pleasure spend years, and a whole life might be employed in the +study of them—quite confuses, stuns, and overpowers +one. In some branches this collection is said to be far +surpassed by some others; but taken altogether, and for size, it +certainly is equalled by none. The few foreign divines who +travel through England generally desire to have the Alexandrian +manuscript shewn them, in order to be convinced with their own +eyes whether the passage, “These are the three that bear +record, &c.,” is to be found there or not.</p> +<p>The Rev. Mr. Woide lives at a place called Lisson Street, not +far from Paddington; a very village-looking little town, at the +west end of London. It is quite a rural and pleasant +situation; for here I either do, or fancy I do, already breathe a +purer and freer air than in the midst of the town. Of his +great abilities, and particularly in oriental literature, I need +not inform you; but it will give you pleasure to hear that he is +actually meditating a fac-simile edition of the Alexandrian +MS. I have already mentioned the infinite obligations I lie +under to this excellent man for his extraordinary courtesy and +kindness.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>The Theatre in the +Haymarket</i>.</p> +<p>Last week I went twice to an English play-house. The +first time “The Nabob” was represented, of which the +late Mr. Foote was the author, and for the entertainment, a very +pleasing and laughable musical farce, called “The Agreeable +Surprise.” The second time I saw “The English +Merchant:” which piece has been translated into German, and +is known among us by the title of “The Scotchwoman,” +or “The Coffee-house.” I have not yet seen the +theatres of Covent Garden and Drury Lane, because they are not +open in summer. The best actors also usually spend May and +October in the country, and only perform in winter.</p> +<p>A very few excepted, the comedians whom I saw were certainly +nothing extraordinary. For a seat in the boxes you pay five +shillings, in the pit three, in the first gallery two, and in the +second or upper gallery, one shilling. And it is the +tenants in this upper gallery who, for their shilling, make all +that noise and uproar for which the English play-houses are so +famous. I was in the pit, which gradually rises, +amphitheatre-wise, from the orchestra, and is furnished with +benches, one above another, from the top to the bottom. +Often and often, whilst I sat there, did a rotten orange, or +pieces of the peel of an orange, fly past me, or past some of my +neighbours, and once one of them actually hit my hat, without my +daring to look round, for fear another might then hit me on my +face.</p> +<p>All over London as one walks, one everywhere, in the season, +sees oranges to sell; and they are in general sold tolerably +cheap, one and even sometimes two for a halfpenny; or, in our +money, threepence. At the play-house, however, they charged +me sixpence for one orange, and that noways remarkably good.</p> +<p>Besides this perpetual pelting from the gallery, which renders +an English play-house so uncomfortable, there is no end to their +calling out and knocking with their sticks till the curtain is +drawn up. I saw a miller’s, or a baker’s boy, +thus, like a huge booby, leaning over the rails and knocking +again and again on the outside, with all his might, so that he +was seen by everybody, without being in the least ashamed or +abashed. I sometimes heard, too, the people in the lower or +middle gallery quarrelling with those of the upper one. +Behind me, in the pit, sat a young fop, who, in order to display +his costly stone buckles with the utmost brilliancy, continually +put his foot on my bench, and even sometimes upon my coat, which +I could avoid only by sparing him as much space from my portion +of the seat as would make him a footstool. In the boxes, +quite in a corner, sat several servants, who were said to be +placed there to keep the seats for the families they served till +they should arrive; they seemed to sit remarkably close and +still, the reason of which, I was told, was their apprehension of +being pelted; for if one of them dares but to look out of the +box, he is immediately saluted with a shower of orange peel from +the gallery.</p> +<p>In Foote’s “Nabob” there are sundry local +and personal satires which are entirely lost to a +foreigner. The character of the Nabob was performed by a +Mr. Palmer. The jett of the character is, this Nabob, with +many affected airs and constant aims at gentility, is still but a +silly fellow, unexpectedly come into the possession of immense +riches, and therefore, of course, paid much court to by a society +of natural philosophers, Quakers, and I do not know who +besides. Being tempted to become one of their members, he +is elected, and in order to ridicule these would-be philosophers, +but real knaves, a fine flowery fustian speech is put into his +mouth, which he delivers with prodigious pomp and importance, and +is listened to by the philosophers with infinite +complacency. The two scenes of the Quakers and +philosophers, who, with countenances full of imaginary +importance, were seated at a green table with their president at +their head while the secretary, with the utmost care, was making +an inventory of the ridiculous presents of the Nabob, were truly +laughable. One of the last scenes was best received: it is +that in which the Nabob’s friend and school-fellow visit +him, and address him without ceremony by his Christian name; but +to all their questions of “Whether he does not recollect +them? Whether he does not remember such and such a play; or +such and such a scrape into which they had fallen in their +youth?” he uniformly answers with a look of ineffable +contempt, only, “No sir!” Nothing can possibly +be more ludicrous, nor more comic.</p> +<p>The entertainment, “The Agreeable Surprise,” is +really a very diverting farce. I observed that, in England +also, they represent school-masters in ridiculous characters on +the stage, which, though I am sorry for, I own I do not wonder +at, as the pedantry of school-masters in England, they tell me, +is carried at least as far as it is elsewhere. The same +person who, in the play, performed the school-fellow of the Nabob +with a great deal of nature and original humour, here acted the +part of the school-master: his name is Edwin, and he is, without +doubt, one of the best actors of all that I have seen.</p> +<p>This school-master is in love with a certain country girl, +whose name is Cowslip, to whom he makes a declaration of his +passion in a strange mythological, grammatical style and manner, +and to whom, among other fooleries, he sings, quite enraptured, +the following air, and seems to work himself at least up to such +a transport of passion as quite overpowers him. He begins, +you will observe, with the conjugation, and ends with the +declensions and the genders; the whole is inimitably droll:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Amo, amas,<br /> +I love a lass,<br /> +She is so sweet and tender,<br /> +It is sweet Cowslip’s Grace<br /> +In the Nominative Case.<br /> +And in the feminine Gender.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Those two sentences in particular, “in the Nominative +Case,” and “in the feminine Gender,” he affects +to sing in a particularly languishing air, as if confident that +it was irresistible. This Edwin, in all his comic +characters, still preserves something so inexpressibly +good-tempered in his countenance, that notwithstanding all his +burlesques and even grotesque buffoonery, you cannot but be +pleased with him. I own, I felt myself doubly interested +for every character which he represented. Nothing could +equal the tone and countenance of self-satisfaction with which he +answered one who asked him whether he was a scholar? +“Why, I was a master of scholars.” A Mrs. Webb +represented a cheesemonger, and played the part of a woman of the +lower class so naturally as I have nowhere else ever seen +equalled. Her huge, fat, and lusty carcase, and the whole +of her external appearance seemed quite to be cut out for it.</p> +<p>Poor Edwin was obliged, as school-master, to sing himself +almost hoarse, as he sometimes was called on to repeat his +declension and conjugation songs two or three times, only because +it pleased the upper gallery, or “the gods,” as the +English call them, to roar out “encore.” Add to +all this, he was farther forced to thank them with a low bow for +the great honour done him by their applause.</p> +<p>One of the highest comic touches in the piece seemed to me to +consist in a lie, which always became more and more enormous in +the mouths of those who told it again, during the whole of the +piece. This kept the audience in almost a continual fit of +laughter. This farce is not yet printed, or I really think +I should be tempted to venture to make a translation, or rather +an imitation of it.</p> +<p>“The English Merchant, or the Scotchwoman,” I have +seen much better performed abroad than it was here. Mr. +Fleck, at Hamburg, in particular, played the part of the English +merchant with more interest, truth, and propriety than one Aickin +did here. He seemed to me to fail totally in expressing the +peculiar and original character of Freeport; instead of which, by +his measured step and deliberate, affected manner of speaking, he +converted him into a mere fine gentleman.</p> +<p>The trusty old servant who wishes to give up his life for his +master he, too, had the stately walk, or strut, of a +minister. The character of the newspaper writer was +performed by the same Mr. Palmer who acted the part of the Nabob, +but every one said, what I thought, that he made him far too much +of a gentleman. His person, and his dress also, were too +handsome for the character.</p> +<p>The character of Amelia was performed by an actress, who made +her first appearance on the stage, and from a timidity natural on +such an occasion, and not unbecoming, spoke rather low, so that +she could not everywhere be heard; “Speak louder! speak +louder!” cried out some rude fellow from the upper-gallery, +and she immediately, with infinite condescension, did all she +could, and not unsuccessfully, to please even an upper gallery +critic.</p> +<p>The persons near me, in the pit, were often extravagantly +lavish of their applause. They sometimes clapped a single +solitary sentiment, that was almost as unmeaning as it was short, +if it happened to be pronounced only with some little emphasis, +or to contain some little point, some popular doctrine, a +singularly pathetic stroke, or turn of wit.</p> +<p>“The Agreeable Surprise” was repeated, and I saw +it a second time with unabated pleasure. It is become a +favourite piece, and always announced with the addition of the +favourite musical farce. The theatre appeared to me +somewhat larger than the one at Hamburg, and the house was both +times very full. Thus much for English plays, play-houses, +and players.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>English Customs and +Education</i>.</p> +<p>A few words more respecting pedantry. I have seen the +regulation of one seminary of learning, here called an +academy. Of these places of education, there is a +prodigious number in London, though, notwithstanding their +pompous names, they are in reality nothing more than small +schools set up by private persons, for children and young +people.</p> +<p>One of the Englishmen who were my travelling companions, made +me acquainted with a Dr. G— who lives near P—, and +keeps an academy for the education of twelve young people, which +number is here, as well as at our Mr. Kumpe’s, never +exceeded, and the same plan has been adopted and followed by many +others, both here and elsewhere.</p> +<p>At the entrance I perceived over the door of the house a large +board, and written on it, Dr. G—’s Academy. Dr. +G— received me with great courtesy as a foreigner, and +shewed me his school-room, which was furnished just in the same +manner as the classes in our public schools are, with benches and +a professor’s chair or pulpit.</p> +<p>The usher at Dr. G—’s is a young clergyman, who, +seated also in a chair or desk, instructs the boys in the Greek +and Latin grammars.</p> +<p>Such an under-teacher is called an usher, and by what I can +learn, is commonly a tormented being, exactly answering the +exquisite description given of him in the “Vicar of +Wakefield.” We went in during the hours of +attendance, and he was just hearing the boys decline their Latin, +which he did in the old jog-trot way; and I own it had an odd +sound to my ears, when instead of pronouncing, for example +<i>viri veeree</i> I heard them say <i>viri</i>, <i>of the +man</i>, exactly according to the English pronunciation, and +<i>viro</i>, <i>to the man</i>. The case was just the same +afterwards with the Greek.</p> +<p>Mr. G— invited us to dinner, when I became acquainted +with his wife, a very genteel young woman, whose behaviour to the +children was such that she might be said to contribute more to +their education than any one else. The children drank +nothing but water. For every boarder Dr. G— receives +yearly no more than thirty pounds sterling, which however, he +complained of as being too little. From forty to fifty +pounds is the most that is generally paid in these academies.</p> +<p>I told him of our improvements in the manner of education, and +also spoke to him of the apparent great worth of character of his +usher. He listened very attentively, but seemed to have +thought little himself on this subject. Before and after +dinner the Lord’s Prayer was repeated in French, which is +done in several places, as if they were eager not to waste +without some improvement, even this opportunity also, to practise +the French, and thus at once accomplish two points. I +afterwards told him my opinion of this species of prayer, which +however, he did not take amiss.</p> +<p>After dinner the boys had leave to play in a very small yard, +which in most schools or academies, in the city of London, is the +<i>ne plus ultra</i> of their playground in their hours of +recreation. But Mr. G— has another garden at the end +of the town, where he sometimes takes them to walk.</p> +<p>After dinner Mr. G— himself instructed the children in +writing, arithmetic, and French, all which seemed to be well +taught here, especially writing, in which the young people in +England far surpass, I believe, all others. This may +perhaps be owing to their having occasion to learn only one sort +of letters. As the midsummer holidays were now approaching +(at which time the children in all the academies go home for four +weeks), everyone was obliged with the utmost care to copy a +written model, in order to show it to their parents, because this +article is most particularly examined, as everybody can tell what +is or is not good writing. The boys knew all the rules of +syntax by heart.</p> +<p>All these academies are in general called +boarding-schools. Some few retain the old name of schools +only, though it is possible that in real merit they may excel the +so much-boasted of academies.</p> +<p>It is in general the clergy, who have small incomes, who set +up these schools both in town and country, and grown up people +who are foreigners, are also admitted here to learn the English +language. Mr. G— charged for board, lodging, and +instruction in the English, two guineas a-week. He however, +who is desirous of perfecting himself in the English, will do +better to go some distance into the country, and board himself +with any clergyman who takes scholars, where he will hear nothing +but English spoken, and may at every opportunity be taught both +by young and old.</p> +<p>There are in England, besides the two universities, but few +great schools or colleges. In London, there are only St. +Paul’s and Westminster schools; the rest are almost all +private institutions, in which there reigns a kind of family +education, which is certainly the most natural, if properly +conducted. Some few grammar schools, or Latin schools, are +notwithstanding here and there to be met with, where the master +receives a fixed salary, besides the ordinary profits of the +school paid by the scholars.</p> +<p>You see in the streets of London, great and little boys +running about in long blue coats, which, like robes, reach quite +down to the feet, and little white bands, such as the clergy +wear. These belong to a charitable institution, or school, +which hears the name of the Blue Coat School. The singing +of the choristers in the streets, so usual with us, is not at all +customary here. Indeed, there is in England, or at least in +London, such a constant walking, riding, and driving up and down +in the streets, that it would not be very practicable. +Parents here in general, nay even those of the lowest classes, +seem to be kind and indulgent to their children, and do not, like +our common people, break their spirits too much by blows and +sharp language. Children should certainly be inured early +to set a proper value on themselves; whereas with us, parents of +the lower class bring up their children to the same slavery under +which they themselves groan.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding the constant new appetites and calls of +fashion, they here remain faithful to nature—till a certain +age. What a contrast, when I figure to myself our petted, +pale-faced Berlin boys, at six years old, with a large bag, and +all the parade of grown-up persons, nay even with laced coats; +and here, on the contrary see nothing but fine, ruddy, slim, +active boys, with their bosoms open, and their hair cut on their +forehead, whilst behind it flows naturally in ringlets. It +is something uncommon here to meet a young man, and more +especially a boy, with a pale or sallow face, with deformed +features, or disproportioned limbs. With us, alas! it is +not to be concealed, the case is very much otherwise; if it were +not, handsome people would hardly strike us so very much as they +do in this country.</p> +<p>This free, loose, and natural dress is worn till they are +eighteen, or even till they are twenty. It is then, indeed, +discontinued by the higher ranks, but with the common people it +always remains the same. They then begin to have their hair +dressed, and curled with irons, to give the head a large bushy +appearance, and half their backs are covered with powder. I +am obliged to remain still longer under the hands of an English, +than I was under a German hair-dresser; and to sweat under his +hot irons with which he curls my hair all over, in order that I +may appear among Englishmen, somewhat English. I must here +observe that the English hair-dressers are also barbers, an +office however, which they perform very badly indeed; though I +cannot but consider shaving as a far more proper employment for +these petit maîtres than it is for surgeons, who you know +in our country are obliged to shave us. It is incredible +how much the English at present Frenchify themselves; the only +things yet wanting are bags and swords, with which at least I +have seen no one walking publicly, but I am told they are worn at +court.</p> +<p>In the morning it is usual to walk out in a sort of +negligée or morning dress, your hair not dressed, but +merely rolled up in rollers, and in a frock and boots. In +Westminster, the morning lasts till four or five o’clock, +at which time they dine, and supper and going to bed are +regulated accordingly. They generally do not breakfast till +ten o’clock. The farther you go from the court into +the city, the more regular and domestic the people become; and +there they generally dine about three o’clock, <i>i.e.</i> +as soon as the business or ‘Change is over.</p> +<p>Trimmed suits are not yet worn, and the most usual dress is in +summer, a short white waistcoat, black breeches, white silk +stockings, and a frock, generally of very dark blue cloth, which +looks like black; and the English seem in general to prefer dark +colours. If you wish to be full dressed, you wear +black. Officers rarely wear their uniforms, but dress like +other people, and are to be known to be officers only by a +cockade in their hats.</p> +<p>It is a common observation, that the more solicitous any +people are about dress, the more effeminate they are. I +attribute it entirely to this idle adventitious passion for +finery, that these people are become so over and above careful of +their persons; they are for ever, and on every occasion, putting +one another on their guard against catching cold; +“you’ll certainly catch cold,” they always tell +you if you happen to be a little exposed to the draught of the +air, or if you be not clad, as they think, sufficiently +warm. The general topic of conversation in summer, is on +the important objects of whether such and such an acquaintance be +in town, or such a one in the country. Far from blaming it, +I think it natural and commendable, that nearly one half of the +inhabitants of this great city migrate into the country in +summer. And into the country, I too, though not a Londoner, +hope soon to wander.</p> +<p>Electricity happens at present to be the puppet-show of the +English. Whoever at all understands electricity is sure of +being noticed and successful. This a certain Mr. +Katterfelto experiences, who gives himself out for a Prussian, +speaks bad English, and understands beside the usual electrical +and philosophical experiments, some legerdemain tricks, with +which (at least according to the papers) he sets the whole world +in wonder. For in almost every newspaper that appears, +there are some verses on the great Katterfelto, which some one or +other of his hearers are said to have made extempore. Every +sensible person considers Katterfelto as a puppy, an ignoramus, a +braggadocio, and an impostor; notwithstanding which he has a +number of followers. He has demonstrated to the people, +that the influenza is occasioned by a small kind of insect, which +poisons the air; and a nostrum, which he pretends to have found +out to prevent or destroy it, is eagerly bought of him. A +few days ago he put into the papers: “It is true that Mr. +Katterfelto has always wished for cold and rainy weather, in +order to destroy the pernicious insects in the air; but now, on +the contrary, he wishes for nothing more than for fair weather, +as his majesty and the whole royal family have determined, the +first fine day, to be eye-witnesses of the great wonder, which +this learned philosopher will render visible to +them.” Yet all this while the royal family have not +so much as even thought of seeing the wonders of Mr. +Katterfelto. This kind of rhodomontade is very finely +expressed in English by the word puff, which in its literal +sense, signifies a blowing, or violent gust of wind, and in the +metaphorical sense, a boasting or bragging.</p> +<p>Of such puffs the English newspapers are daily full, +particularly of quack medicines and empirics, by means of which +many a one here (and among others a German who goes by the name +of the German doctor) are become rich. An advertisement of +a lottery in the papers begins with capitals in this +manner,—“Ten Thousand Pounds for a Sixpence! +Yes, however astonishing it may seem, it is nevertheless +undoubtedly true, that for the small stake of sixpence, ten +thousand pounds, and other capital prizes, may be won, +etc.”—But enough for this time of the puffs of the +English.</p> +<p>I yesterday dined with the Rev. Mr. Schrader, son-in-law to +Professor Foster of Halle. He is chaplain to the German +chapel at St. James’s; but besides himself he has a +colleague or a reader, who is also in orders, but has only fifty +pounds yearly salary. Mr. Schrader also instructs the +younger princes and princesses of the royal family in their +religion. At his house I saw the two chaplains, Mr. +Lindeman and Mr. Kritter, who went with the Hanoverian troops to +Minorca, and who were returned with the garrison. They were +exposed to every danger along with the troops. The German +clergy, as well as every other person in any public station +immediately under Government, are obliged to pay a considerable +tax out of their salaries.</p> +<p>The English clergy (and I fear those still more particularly +who live in London) are noticeable, and lamentably conspicuous, +by a very free, secular, and irregular way of life. Since +my residence in England, one has fought a duel in Hyde Park, and +shot his antagonist. He was tried for the offence, and it +was evident the judge thought him guilty of murder; but the jury +declared him guilty only of manslaughter; and on this verdict he +was burnt in the hand, if that may be called burning which is +done with a cold iron; this being a privilege which the nobility +and clergy enjoy above other murderers.</p> +<p>Yesterday week, after I had preached for Mr. Wendeborne, we +passed an English church in which, we understood the sermon was +not yet quite finished. On this we went in, and then I +heard a young man preaching, with a tolerable good voice, and a +proper delivery; but, like the English in general, his manner was +unimpassioned, and his tone monotonous. From the church we +went to a coffee-house opposite to it, and there we dined. +We had not been long there before the same clergyman whom we had +just heard preaching, also came in. He called for pen and +ink, and hastily wrote down a few pages on a long sheet of paper, +which he put into his pocket; I suppose it was some rough sketch +or memorandum that occurred to him at that moment, and which he +thus reserved for some future sermon. He too ordered some +dinner, which he had no sooner ate, than he returned immediately +to the same church. We followed him, and he again mounted +the pulpit, where he drew from his pocket a written paper, or +book of notes, and delivered in all probability those very words +which he had just before composed in our presence at the +coffee-house.</p> +<p>In these coffee-houses, however, there generally prevails a +very decorous stillness and silence. Everyone speaks softly +to those only who sit next him. The greater part read the +newspapers, and no one ever disturbs another. The room is +commonly on the ground floor, and you enter it immediately from +the street; the seats are divided by wooden wainscot +partitions. Many letters and projects are here written and +planned, and many of those that you find in the papers are dated +from some of these coffee-houses. There is, therefore, +nothing incredible, nor very extraordinary, in a person’s +composing a sermon here, excepting that one would imagine it +might have been done better at home, and certainly should not +have thus been put off to the last minute.</p> +<p>Another long walk that I have taken pretty often, is through +Hanover Square and Cavendish Square, to Bulstrode Street, near +Paddington, where the Danish ambassador lives, and where I have +often visited the Danish <i>Charge d’Affaires</i>, M. +Schornborn. He is well known in Germany, as having +attempted to translate Pindar into German. Besides this, +and besides being known to be a man of genius, he is known to be +a great proficient in most of the branches of natural +philosophy. I have spent many very pleasant hours with +him.</p> +<p>Sublime poetry, and in particular odes, are his forte; there +are indeed few departments of learning in which he has not +extensive knowledge, and he is also well read in the Greek and +Roman authors. Everything he studies, he studies merely +from the love he bears to the science itself, and by no means for +the love of fame.</p> +<p>One could hardly help saying it is a pity that so excellent a +man should be so little known, were it not generally the case +with men of transcendent merit. But what makes him still +more valuable is his pure and open soul, and his amiable +unaffected simplicity of character, which has gained him the love +and confidence of all who know him. He has heretofore been +secretary to the ambassador at Algiers; and even here in London, +when he is not occupied by the business arising from his public +station, he lives exceedingly retired, and devotes his time +almost entirely to the study of the sciences. The more +agreeable I find such an acquaintance, the harder it will be for +me to lose, as I soon must, his learned, his instructive, and his +friendly conversation.</p> +<p>I have seen the large Freemasons’ Hall here, at the +tavern of the same name. This hall is of an astonishing +height and breadth, and to me it looked almost like a +church. The orchestra is very much raised, and from that +you have a fine view of the whole hall, which makes a majestic +appearance. The building is said to have cost an immense +sum. But to that the lodges in Germany also +contributed. Freemasonry seems to be held in but little +estimation in England, perhaps because most of the lodges are now +degenerated into mere drinking clubs; though I hope there still +are some who assemble for nobler and more essential +purposes. The Duke of Cumberland is now grand master.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, 20<i>th</i> +<i>June</i>, 1782.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> length my determination of going +into the country takes effect; and I am to set off this very +afternoon in a stage; so that I now write to you my last letter +from London, I mean till I return from my pilgrimage, for as soon +as ever I have got beyond the dangerous neighbourhood of London, +I shall certainly no longer suffer myself to be cooped up in a +post-coach, but take my staff and pursue my journey on +foot. In the meantime, however, I will relate to you what I +may either have forgotten to write before, or what I have seen +worth notice within these few days last past; among which the +foremost is</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>St. Paul’s</i>.</p> +<p>I must own that on my entrance into this massy building, an +uncommon vacancy, which seemed to reign in it, rather damped than +raised an impression of anything majestic in me. All around +me I could see nothing but immense bare walls and pillars. +Above me, at an astonishing height, was the vaulted stone roof; +and beneath me a plain, flat even floor, paved with marble. +No altar was to be seen, or any other sign that this was a place +where mankind assembled to adore the Almighty. For the +church itself, or properly that part of it where they perform +divine service, seems as it were a piece stuck on or added to the +main edifice, and is separated from the large round empty space +by an iron gate, or door. Did the great architects who +adopted this style of building mean by this to say that such a +temple is most proper for the adoration of the Almighty? If +this was their aim, I can only say I admire the great temple of +nature, the azure vaulted sky, and the green carpet with which +the earth is spread. This is truly a large temple; but then +there is in it no void, no spot unappropriated, or unfulfilled, +but everywhere proofs in abundance of the presence of the +Almighty. If, however, mankind, in their honest ambition to +worship the great God of nature, in a style not wholly unsuitable +to the great object of their reverence, and in their humble +efforts at magnificence, aim in some degree to rival the +magnificence of nature, particular pains should be taken to hit +on something that might atone for the unavoidable loss of the +animation and ampleness of nature; something in short that should +clearly indicate the true and appropriated design and purpose of +such a building. If, on the other hand, I could be +contented to consider St. Paul’s merely as a work of art, +built as if merely to show the amazing extent of human powers, I +should certainly gaze at it with admiration and astonishment, but +then I wish rather to contemplate it with awe and +veneration. But, I perceive, I am wandering out of my +way. St. Paul’s is here, as it is, a noble pile, and +not unworthy of this great nation. And even if I were sure +that I could, you would hardly thank me for showing you how it +might have been still more worthy of this intelligent +people. I make a conscience however of telling you always, +with fidelity, what impression everything I see or hear makes on +me at the time. For a small sum of money I was conducted +all over the church by a man whose office it seemed to be, and he +repeated to me, I dare say, exactly his lesson, which no doubt he +has perfectly got by rote: of how many feet long and broad it +was; how many years it was in building, and in what year +built. Much of this rigmarole story, which, like a parrot, +he repeated mechanically, I could willingly have dispensed +with. In the part that was separated from the rest by the +iron gate above mentioned, was what I call the church itself; +furnished with benches, pews, pulpit, and an altar; and on each +side seats for the choristers, as there are in our +cathedrals. This church seemed to have been built purposely +in such a way, that the bishop, or dean, or dignitary, who should +preach there, might not be obliged to strain his voice too +much. I was now conducted to that part which is called the +whispering gallery, which is a circumference of prodigious +extent, just below the cupola. Here I was directed to place +myself in a part of it directly opposite to my conductor, on the +other side of the gallery, so that we had the whole breadth of +the church between us, and here as I stood, he, knowing his cue +no doubt, flung to the door with all his force, which gave a +sound that I could compare to nothing less than a peal of +thunder. I was next desired to apply my ear to the wall, +which, when I did, I heard the words of my conductor: “Can +you hear me?” which he softly whispered quite on the other +side, as plain and as loud as one commonly speaks to a deaf +person. This scheme to condense and invigorate sound at so +great a distance is really wonderful. I once noticed some +sound of the same sort in the senatorial cellar at Bremen; but +neither that, nor I believe any other in the world, can pretend +to come in competition with this.</p> +<p>I now ascended several steps to the great gallery, which runs +on the outside of the great dome, and here I remained nearly two +hours, as I could hardly, in less time, satisfy myself with the +prospect of the various interesting objects that lay all round +me, and which can no where be better seen, than from hence.</p> +<p>Every view, and every object I studied attentively, by viewing +them again and again on every side, for I was anxious to make a +lasting impression of it on my imagination.</p> +<p>Below me lay steeples, houses, and palaces in countless +numbers; the squares with their grass plots in their middle that +lay agreeably dispersed and intermixed, with all the huge +clusters of buildings, forming meanwhile a pleasing contrast, and +a relief to the jaded eye.</p> +<p>At one end rose the Tower—itself a city—with a +wood of masts behind it; and at the other Westminster Abbey with +its steeples. There I beheld, clad in smiles, those +beautiful green hills that skirt the environs of Paddington and +Islington; here, on the opposite bank of the Thames, lay +Southwark; the city itself it seems to be impossible for any eye +to take in entirely, for with all my pains I found it impossible +to ascertain either where it ended, or where the circumjacent +villages began; far as the eye could reach, it seemed to be all +one continued chain of buildings.</p> +<p>I well remember how large I thought Berlin when first I saw it +from the steeple of St. Mary, and from the Temple Yard Hills, but +how did it now sink and fall in my imagination, when I compared +it with London!</p> +<p>It is, however, idle and vain to attempt giving you in words, +any description, however faint and imperfect, of such a prospect +as I have just been viewing. He who wishes at one view to +see a world in miniature, must come to the dome of St +Paul’s.</p> +<p>The roof of St. Paul’s itself with its two lesser +steeples lay below me, and as I fancied, looked something like +the background of a small ridge of hills, which you look down +upon when you have attained the summit of some huge rock or +mountain. I should gladly have remained here sometime +longer, but a gust of wind, which in this situation was so +powerful that it was hardly possible to withstand it, drove me +down.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding that St. Paul’s is itself very high, the +elevation of the ground on which it stands contributes greatly to +its elevation.</p> +<p>The church of St. Peter at Berlin, notwithstanding the total +difference between them in the style of building, appears in some +respects to have a great resemblance to St. Paul’s in +London. At least its large high black roof rises above the +other surrounding buildings just as St. Paul’s does.</p> +<p>What else I saw in this stately cathedral was only a wooden +model of this very edifice, which was made before the church was +built, and which suggests some not unpleasing reflections when +one compares it with the enormous building itself.</p> +<p>The churchyard is enclosed with an iron rail, and it appears a +considerable distance if you go all round.</p> +<p>Owing to some cause or other, the site of St. Paul’s +strikes you as being confined, and it is certain that this +beautiful church is on every side closely surrounded by +houses.</p> +<p>A marble statue of Queen Anne in an enclosed piece of ground +in the west front of the church is something of an ornament to +that side.</p> +<p>The size of the bell of St. Paul’s is also worthy of +notice, as it is reckoned one of those that are deemed the +largest in Europe. It takes its place, they say, next to +that at Vienna.</p> +<p>Everything that I saw in St. Paul’s cost me only a +little more than a shilling, which I paid in pence and halfpence, +according to a regulated price, fixed for every different +curiosity.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Westminster Abbey</i>.</p> +<p>On a very gloomy dismal day, just such a one as it ought to +be, I went to see Westminster Abbey.</p> +<p>I entered at a small door, which brought me immediately to the +poets’ corner, where the monuments and busts of the +principal poets, artists, generals, and great men, are +placed.</p> +<p>Not far from the door, immediately on my entrance, I perceived +the statue of Shakespeare, as large as life; with a band, +&c., in the dress usual in his time.</p> +<p>A passage out of one of Shakespeare’s own plays (the +<i>Tempest</i>), in which he describes in the most solemn and +affecting manner, the end, or the dissolution of all things, is +here, with great propriety, put up as his epitaph; as though none +but Shakespeare could do justice to Shakespeare.</p> +<p>Not far from this immortal bard is Rowe’s monument, +which, as it is intimated in the few lines that are inscribed as +his epitaph, he himself had desired to be placed there.</p> +<p>At no great distance I saw the bust of that amiable writer, +Goldsmith: to whom, as well as to Butler, whose monument is in a +distant part of the abbey, though they had scarcely necessary +bread to eat during their life time, handsome monuments are now +raised. Here, too you see, almost in a row, the monuments +of Milton, Dryden, Gay, and Thomson. The inscription on +Gay’s tombstone is, if not actually immoral, yet futile and +weak; though he is said to have written it himself:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Life is a jest, and all things shew it,<br +/> +‘I thought so once but now I know it.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Our Handel has also a monument here, where he is represented +as large as life.</p> +<p>An actress, Pritchard, and Booth, an actor, have also very +distinguished monuments erected here to their memories.</p> +<p>For Newton, as was proper, there is a very costly one. +It is above, at the entrance of the choir, and exactly opposite +to this, at the end of the church, another is erected, which +refers you to the former.</p> +<p>As I passed along the side walls of Westminster Abbey, I +hardly saw any thing but marble monuments of great admirals, but +which were all too much loaded with finery and ornaments, to make +on me at least, the intended impression.</p> +<p>I always returned with most pleasure to the poets’ +corner, where the most sensible, most able, and most learned men, +of the different ages, were re-assembled; and particularly where +the elegant simplicity of the monuments made an elevated and +affecting impression on the mind, while a perfect recollection of +some favourite passage, of a Shakespeare, or Milton, recurred to +my idea, and seemed for a moment to re-animate and bring back the +spirits of those truly great men.</p> +<p>Of Addison and Pope I have found no monuments here. The +vaults where the kings are buried, and some other things worth +notice in the abbey, I have not yet seen; but perhaps I may at my +return to London from the country.</p> +<p>I have made every necessary preparation for this journey: In +the first place, I have an accurate map of England in my pocket; +besides an excellent book of the roads, which Mr. Pointer, the +English merchant to whom I am recommended, has lent me. The +title is “A new and accurate description of all the direct +and principal cross roads in Great Britain.” This +book, I hope, will be of great service to me in my ramblings.</p> +<p>I was for a long time undecided which way I should go, whether +to the Isle of Wight, to Portsmouth, or to Derbyshire, which is +famous for its natural curiosities, and also for its romantic +situation. At length I have determined on Derbyshire.</p> +<p>During my absence I leave my trunk at Mr. Mulhausen’s +(one of Mr. Pointer’s senior partners), that I may not be +at the needless expense of paying for my lodging without making +use of it. This Mr. Pointer lived long in Germany, and is +politely partial to us and our language, and speaks it +well. He is a well-bred and singularly obliging man; and +one who possesses a vast fund of information, and a good +taste. I cannot but feel myself happy in having obtained a +recommendation to so accomplished a man. I got it from +Messrs. Persent and Dorner, to whom I had the honour to be +recommended by Mr. Von Taubenheim, Privy Counsellor at +Berlin. These recommendations have been of infinite use to +me.</p> +<p>I propose to go to-day as far as Richmond; for which place a +stage sets out about two o’clock from some inn, not far +from the new church in the Strand. Four guineas, some +linen, my English book of the roads, and a map and pocket-book, +together with Milton’s Paradise Lost, which I must put in +my pocket, compose the whole of my equipage; and I hope to walk +very lightly with it. But it now strikes half-past one, and +of course it is time for me to be at the stage. +Farewell! I will write to you again from Richmond.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Richmond</i>, 21<i>st</i> +<i>June</i>, 1782.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Yesterday</span> afternoon I had the +luxury for the first time of being driven in an English +stage. These coaches are, at least in the eyes of a +foreigner, quite elegant, lined in the inside; and with two seats +large enough to accommodate six persons; but it must be owned, +when the carriage is full, the company are rather crowded.</p> +<p>At the White Hart from whence the coach sets out, there was, +at first only an elderly lady who got in; but as we drove along, +it was soon filled, and mostly by ladies, there being only one +more gentleman and myself. The conversation of the ladies +among themselves, who appeared to be a little acquainted with +each other, seemed to me to be but very insipid and +tiresome. All I could do was, I drew out my book of the +roads, and marked the way we were going.</p> +<p>Before you well know that you are out of London you are +already in Kensington and Hammersmith; because there are all the +way houses on both sides, after you are out of the city; just as +you may remember the case is with us when you drive from Berlin +to Schoneberg; although in point of prospect, houses and streets, +the difference, no doubt, is prodigious.</p> +<p>It was a fine day, and there were various delightful prospects +on both sides, on which the eye would willingly have dwelt +longer, had not our coach rolled on past them, so provokingly +quick. It appeared somewhat singular to me, when at a few +miles from London, I saw at a distance a beautiful white house; +and perceived on the high road, on which we were driving, a +direction post, on which were written these words: “that +great white house at a distance is a boarding-school!”</p> +<p>The man who was with us in the coach pointed out to us the +country seats of the lords and great people by which we passed; +and entertained us with all kind of stories of robberies which +had been committed on travellers, hereabouts; so that the ladies +at last began to be rather afraid; on which he began to stand up +for the superior honour of the English robbers, when compared +with the French: the former he said robbed only, the latter both +robbed and murdered.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding this there are in England another species of +villains, who also murder, and that oftentimes for the merest +trifle, of which they rob the person murdered. These are +called footpads, and are the lowest class of English rogues; +amongst whom in general there reigns something like some regard +to character.</p> +<p>The highest order of thieves are the pickpockets or cutpurses, +whom you find everywhere; and sometimes even in the best +companies. They are generally well and handsomely dressed, +so that you take them to be persons of rank; as indeed may +sometimes be the case: persons who by extravagance and excesses +have reduced themselves to want, and find themselves obliged at +last to have recourse to pilfering and thieving.</p> +<p>Next to them come the highwaymen, who rob on horseback; and +often, they say, even with unloaded pistols, they terrify +travellers, in order to put themselves in possession of their +purses. Among these persons, however, there are instances +of true greatness of soul, there are numberless instances of +their returning a part of their booty, where the party robbed has +appeared to be particularly distressed; and they are seldom +guilty of murder.</p> +<p>Then comes the third and lowest, and worst of all thieves and +rogues, the footpads before mentioned; who are on foot, and often +murder in the most inhuman manner, for the sake of only a few +shillings, any unfortunate people who happen to fall in their +way. Of this several mournful instances may be read almost +daily in the English papers. Probably they murder, because +they cannot like highwaymen, aided by their horses, make a rapid +flight: and therefore such pests are frequently pretty easily +pursued and taken if the person robbed gives information of his +robbery in time.</p> +<p>But to return to our stage, I must observe, that they have +here a curious way of riding, not in, but upon a +stage-coach. Persons to whom it is not convenient to pay a +full price, instead of the inside, sit on the top of the coach, +without any seats or even a rail. By what means passengers +thus fasten themselves securely on the roof of these vehicles, I +know not; but you constantly see numbers seated there, apparently +at their ease, and in perfect safety.</p> +<p>This they call riding on the outside; for which they pay only +half as much as those pay who are within: we had at present six +of these passengers over our heads, who, when we alighted, +frequently made such a noise and bustle, as sometimes almost +frightened us. He who can properly balance himself, rides +not incommodiously on the outside; and in summer time, in fine +weather, on account of the prospects, it certainly is more +pleasant than it is within: excepting that the company is +generally low, and the dust is likewise more troublesome than in +the inside, where, at any rate, you may draw up the windows +according to your pleasure.</p> +<p>In Kensington, where we stopped, a Jew applied for a place +along with us; but as there was no seat vacant in the inside, he +would not ride on the outside, which seemed not quite to please +my travelling companions. They could not help thinking it +somewhat preposterous that a Jew should be ashamed to ride on the +outside, or on any side, and in any way; since as they added, he +was nothing more than a Jew. This antipathy and prejudice +against the Jews, I have noticed to be far more common here, than +it is even with us, who certainly are not partial to them.</p> +<p>Of the beautiful country seats and villas which we now passed, +I could only through the windows of our coach gain a partial and +indistinct prospect, which led me to wish, as I soon most +earnestly did, to be released from this movable prison. +Towards evening we arrived at Richmond. In London, before I +set out, I had paid one shilling; another was now demanded, so +that upon the whole, from London to Richmond, the passage in the +stage costs just two shillings.</p> +<p>As soon as I had alighted at an inn and had drunk my tea, I +went out immediately to see the town and the circumjacent +country.</p> +<p>Even this town, though hardly out of sight of London, is more +countrified, pleasanter, and more cheerful than London, and the +houses do not seem to be so much blackened by smoke. The +people also appeared to me here more sociable and more +hospitable. I saw several sitting on benches before their +doors, to enjoy the cool breeze of the evening. On a large +green area in the middle of the town, a number of boys, and even +young men, were enjoying themselves, and playing at +trap-ball. In the streets there reigned here, compared to +London, a pleasing rural tranquillity, and I breathed a purer and +fresher air.</p> +<p>I went now out of the town over a bridge, which lies across +the Thames, and where you pay a penny as often as you pass over +it. The bridge is lofty and built in the form of an arch, +and from it you enter immediately into a most charming valley, +that winds all along the banks of the Thames.</p> +<p>It was evening. The sun was just shedding her last +parting rays on the valley; but such an evening, and such a +valley! Oh, it is impossible I should ever forget +them. The terrace at Richmond does assuredly afford one of +the finest prospects in the world. Whatever is charming in +nature, or pleasing in art, is to be seen here. Nothing I +had ever seen, or ever can see elsewhere, is to be compared to +it. My feelings, during the few short enraptured minutes +that I stood there, it is impossible for any pen to describe.</p> +<p>One of my first sensations was chagrin and sorrow for the days +and hours I had wasted in London, and I had vented a thousand +bitter reproaches on my irresolution, that I had not long ago +quitted that huge dungeon to come here and pass my time in +paradise.</p> +<p>Yes, my friend, whatever be your ideas of paradise, and how +luxuriantly soever it may be depicted to your imagination, I +venture to foretell that here you will be sure to find all those +ideas realised. In every point of view, Richmond is +assuredly one of the first situations in the world. Here it +was that Thomson and Pope gleaned from nature all those beautiful +passages with which their inimitable writings abound.</p> +<p>Instead of the incessant distressing noise in London, I saw +here at a distance, sundry little family parties walking arm in +arm along the banks of the Thames. Everything breathed a +soft and pleasing calm, which warmed my heart and filed it with +some of the most pleasing sensations of which our nature is +susceptible.</p> +<p>Beneath I trod on that fresh, even, and soft verdure which is +to be seen only in England. On one side of me lay a wood, +than which nature cannot produce a finer, and on the other the +Thames, with its shelvy bank and charming lawns rising like an +amphitheatre, along which, here and there, one espies a +picturesque white house, aspiring in majestic simplicity to +pierce the dark foliage of the surrounding trees; thus studding, +like stars in the galaxy, the rich expanse of this charming +vale.</p> +<p>Sweet Richmond! never, no, never, shall I forget that lovely +evening, when from thy fairy hills thou didst so hospitably smile +on me, a poor lonely, insignificant stranger! As I +traversed to and fro thy meads, thy little swelling hills and +flowery dells, and above all that queen of all rivers, thy own +majestic Thames, I forgot all sublunary cares, and thought only +of heaven and heavenly things. Happy, thrice happy am I, I +again and again exclaimed, that I am no longer in yon gloomy +city, but here in Elysium, in Richmond.</p> +<p>O ye copsy hills, ye green meadows, and ye rich streams in +this blessed country, how have ye enchanted me? Still, +however, let me recollect and resolve, as I firmly do, that even +ye shall not prevent my return to those barren and dusty lands +where my, perhaps a less indulgent, destiny has placed me, and +where, in the due discharge of all the arduous and important +duties of that humble function to which providence has called me, +I must and I will faithfully exert my best talents, and in that +exertion find pleasure, and I trust, happiness. In every +future moment of my life, however, the recollection of this +scene, and the feelings it inspired, shall cheer my labours and +invigorate my efforts.</p> +<p>These were some of my reflections, my dearest friend, during +my solitary walk. Of the evening I passed at Richmond, I +speak feebly when I content myself with saying only, it was one +of the pleasantest I ever spent in my life.</p> +<p>I now resolved to go to bed early, with a firm purpose of also +rising early the next day to revisit this charming walk; for I +thought to myself, I have now seen this temple of the modern +world imperfectly; I have seen it only by moonlight. How +much more charming must it be when glistening with the morning +dew! These fond hopes, alas, were all disappointed. +In all great schemes of enjoyment, it is, I believe, no bad way +always to figure to yourself some possible evil that may arise, +and to anticipate a disappointment. If I had done so, I +should not perhaps have felt the mortification I then experienced +quite so pungent. By some means or other I stayed too long +out, and so when I returned to Richmond, I had forgot the name +and the sign of the inn where I had before stopped; it cost me no +little trouble to find it again.</p> +<p>When at last I got back, I told the people what a sweet walk I +had had, and they then spoke much of a prospect from a +neighbouring hill, known by the name of Richmond Hill, which was +the very same hill from the top of which I had just been gazing +at the houses in the vale, the preceding evening. From this +same kill, therefore, I resolved the next morning to see the sun +rise.</p> +<p>The landlady of this house was a notable one, and talked so +much and so loud to her servants, that I could not get to sleep +till it was pretty late. However, I was up next morning at +three o’clock, and was now particularly sensible of the +great inconveniences they sustain in England by their bad custom +of rising so late, for as I was the only one in this family who +was up, I could not get out of the house. This obliged me +to spend three most irksome and heavy hours till six +o’clock; however, a servant at length opened the door, and +I rushed out to climb Richmond Hill. To my infinite +disappointment, within the space of an hour, the sky had become +overcast, and it was now so cloudy that I could not even see, nor +of course enjoy one half of the delightful prospect that lay +before me.</p> +<p>On the top of this hill is an alley of chestnut trees, under +which here and there seats are placed. Behind the alley is +a row of well-built gentlemen’s country seats. One +does not wonder to see it thus occupied; besides the pure air, +the prospect exceeds everything else of the kind in the +world. I never saw a palace which, if I were the owner of +it, I would not give for any of the houses I now saw on Richmond +Terrace.</p> +<p>The descent of the hill to the Thames is covered with verdure, +the Thames at the foot of it forms near a semicircle, in which it +seems to embrace woody plains, with meadows and country seats in +its bosom. On one side you see the town and its magnificent +bridge, and on the other a dark wood.</p> +<p>At a distance you could perceive, peeping out among the +meadows and woods, sundry small villages, so that notwithstanding +the dulness of the weather, this prospect even now was one of the +finest I had ever seen. But what is the reason that +yesterday evening my feelings were far more acute and lively, the +impressions made on me much stronger, when from the vale I viewed +the hill and fancied that there was in it every thing that was +delightful, than they are this morning, when from the hill I +overlooked the vale and knew pretty exactly what it +contained?</p> +<p>I have now finished my breakfast, and once more seize my +staff, the only companion I have, and now again set out on this +romantic journey on foot. From Windsor you shall hear more +of me.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Windsor</i>, 23<i>rd</i> +<i>June</i>.</p> +<p>I <span class="smcap">have</span> already, my dearest friend, +now that I write to you from hence, experienced so many +inconveniences as a traveller on foot, that I am at some loss to +determine whether or no I shall go on with my journey in the same +manner.</p> +<p>A traveller on foot in this country seems to be considered as +a sort of wild man or out-of-the way being, who is stared at, +pitied, suspected, and shunned by everybody that meets him. +At least this has hitherto been my case on the road from Richmond +to Windsor.</p> +<p>My host at Richmond, yesterday morning, could not sufficiently +express his surprise that I intended to venture to walk as far as +Oxford, and still farther. He however was so kind as to +send his son, a clever little boy, to show me the road leading to +Windsor.</p> +<p>At first I walked along a very pleasant footway by the side of +the Thames, where close to my right lay the king’s +garden. On the opposite bank of the Thames was Isleworth, a +spot that seemed to be distinguished by some elegant +gentlemen’s country-seats and gardens. Here I was +obliged to ferry the river in order to get into the Oxford Road, +which also leads to Windsor.</p> +<p>When I was on the other side of the water, I came to a house +and asked a man who was standing at the door if I was on the +right road to Oxford. “Yes,” said he, +“but you want a carriage to carry you thither.” +When I answered him that I intended walking it, he looked at me +significantly, shook his head, and went into the house again.</p> +<p>I was now on the road to Oxford. It is a charming fine +broad road, and I met on it carriages without number, which, +however, on account of the heat, occasioned a dust that was +extremely troublesome and disagreeable. The fine green +hedges, which border the roads in England, contribute greatly to +render them pleasant. This was the case in the road I now +travelled, for when I was tired I sat down in the shade under one +of these hedges and read Milton. But this relief was soon +rendered disagreeable to me, for those who rode or drove past me, +stared at me with astonishment, and made many significant +gestures as if they thought my head deranged; so singular must it +needs have appeared to them to see a man sitting along the side +of a public road and reading. I therefore found myself +obliged, when I wished to rest myself and read, to look out for a +retired spot in some by-lane or crossroad.</p> +<p>When I again walked, many of the coachmen who drove by called +out to me, ever and anon, and asked if I would not ride on the +outside; and when, every now and then, a farmer on horseback met +me, he said, and seemingly with an air of pity for me, +“’Tis warm walking, sir;” and when I passed +through a village, every old woman testified her pity by an +exclamation of—“Good God!”</p> +<p>As far as Hounslow the way was very pleasant; afterwards I +thought it not quite so good. It lay across a common, which +was of a considerable extent, and bare and naked, excepting that +here and there I saw sheep feeding.</p> +<p>I now began to be very tired, when, to my astonishment, I saw +a tree in the middle of the common that stood quite solitary, and +spread a shade like an arbour round it. At the bottom, +round the trunk, a bench was placed, on which one may sit +down. Beneath the shade of this tree I reposed myself a +little, read some of Milton, and made a note in my +memorandum-book that I would remember this tree, which had so +charitably and hospitably received under its shade a weary +traveller. This, you see, I have now done.</p> +<p>The short English miles are delightful for walking. You +are always pleased to find, every now and then, in how short a +time you have walked a mile, though, no doubt, a mile is +everywhere a mile, I walk but a moderate pace, and can accomplish +four English miles in an hour. It used to take me pretty +nearly the same time for one German mile. Now it is a +pleasing exchange to find that in two hours I can walk eight +miles. And now I fancy I was about seventeen miles from +London, when I came to an inn, where, for a little wine and +water, I was obliged to pay sixpence. An Englishman who +happened to be sitting by the side of the innkeeper found out +that I was a German, and, of course, from the country of his +queen, in praise of whom he was quite lavish, observing more than +once that England never had had such a queen, and would not +easily get such another.</p> +<p>It now began to grow hot. On the left hand, almost close +to the high road, I met with a singularly clear rivulet. In +this I bathed, and was much refreshed, and afterwards, with fresh +alacrity, continued my journey.</p> +<p>I had now got over the common, and was once more in a country +rich and well cultivated beyond all conception. This +continued to be the case as far as Slough, which is twenty miles +and a half from London, on the way to Oxford, and from which to +the left there is a road leading to Windsor, whose high white +castle I have already seen at a distance.</p> +<p>I made no stay here, but went directly to the right, along a +very pleasant high road, between meadows and green hedges, +towards Windsor, where I arrived about noon.</p> +<p>It strikes a foreigner as something particular and unusual +when, on passing through these fine English towns, he observed +one of those circumstances by which the towns in Germany are +distinguished from the villages—no walls, no gates, no +sentries, nor garrisons. No stern examiner comes here to +search and inspect us or our baggage; no imperious guard here +demands a sight of our passports; perfectly free and unmolested, +we here walk through villages and towns as unconcerned as we +should through a house of our own.</p> +<p>Just before I got to Windsor I passed Eton College, one of the +first public schools in England, and perhaps in the world. +I have before observed that there are in England fewer of these +great schools than one might expect. It lay on my left; and +on the right, directly opposite to it, was an inn, into which I +went.</p> +<p>I suppose it was during the hour of recreation, or in +playtime, when I got to Eton, for I saw the boys in the yard +before the college, which was enclosed by a low wall, in great +numbers, walking and running up and down.</p> +<p>Their dress struck me particularly. From the biggest to +the least, they all wore black cloaks, or gowns, over coloured +clothes, through which there was an aperture for their +arms. They also wore besides a square hat or cap, that +seemed to be covered with velvet, such as our clergymen in many +places wear.</p> +<p>They were differently employed—some talking together, +some playing, and some had their books in their hands, and were +reading; but I was soon obliged to get out of their sight, they +stared at me so as I came along, all over dust, with my stick in +my hand.</p> +<p>As I entered the inn, and desired to have something to eat, +the countenance of the waiter soon gave me to understand that I +should there find no very friendly reception. Whatever I +got they seemed to give me with such an air as showed too plainly +how little they thought of me, and as if they considered me but +as a beggar. I must do them the justice to own, however, +that they suffered me to pay like a gentleman. No doubt +this was the first time this pert, bepowdered puppy had ever been +called on to wait on a poor devil who entered their place on +foot. I was tired, and asked for a bedroom where I might +sleep. They showed me into one that much resembled a prison +for malefactors. I requested that I might have a better +room at night; on which, without any apology, they told me that +they had no intention of lodging me, as they had no room for such +guests, but that I might go back to Slough, where very probably I +might get a night’s lodging.</p> +<p>With money in my pocket, and a consciousness, moreover, that I +was doing nothing that was either imprudent, unworthy, or really +mean, I own it mortified and vexed me to find myself obliged to +put up with this impudent ill-usage from people who ought to +reflect that they are but the servants of the public, and little +likely to recommend themselves to the high by being insolent to +the low. They made me, however, pay them two shillings for +my dinner and coffee, which I had just thrown down, and was +preparing to shake off the dust from my shoes, and quit this +inhospitable St. Christopher, when the green hills of Windsor +smiled so friendly upon me, that they seemed to invite me first +to visit them.</p> +<p>And now trudging through the streets of Windsor, I at length +mounted a sort of hill; a steep path led me on to its summit, +close to the walls of the castle, where I had an uncommonly +extensive and fine prospect, which so much raised my heart, that +in a moment I forgot not only the insults of waiters and +tavern-keepers, but the hardship of my lot in being obliged to +travel in a manner that exposed me to the scorn of a people whom +I wished to respect. Below me lay the most beautiful +landscapes in the world—all the rich scenery that nature, +in her best attire, can exhibit. Here were the spots that +furnished those delightful themes of which the muse of Denham and +Pope made choice. I seemed to view a whole world at once, +rich and beautiful beyond conception. At that moment what +more could I have wished for?</p> +<p>And the venerable castle, that royal edifice which, in every +part of it, has strong traces of antiquity, smiles through its +green trees, like the serene countenance of some hoary sage, who, +by the vigour of a happy constitution, still retains many of the +charms of youth.</p> +<p>Nothing inspired me with more veneration and awe than the fine +old building St. George’s Church, which, as you come down +from the castle, is on your right. At the sight of it past +centuries seemed to revive in my imagination.</p> +<p>But I will see no more of those sights which are shown you by +one of those venal praters, who ten times a day, parrot-wise, +repeat over the same dull lesson they have got by heart. +The surly fellow, who for a shilling conducted me round the +church, had nearly, with his chattering, destroyed the finest +impressions. Henry VIII., Charles I., and Edward IV. are +buried here. After all, this church, both within and +without, has a most melancholy and dismal appearance.</p> +<p>They were building at what is called the queen’s palace, +and prodigious quantities of materials are provided for that +purpose.</p> +<p>I now went down a gentle declivity into the delightful park at +Windsor, at the foot of which it looks so sombrous and gloomy +that I could hardly help fancying it was some vast old Gothic +temple. This forest certainly, in point of beauty, +surpasses everything of the kind you can figure to +yourself. To its own charms, when I saw it, there were +added a most pleasing and philosophical solitude, the coolness of +an evening breeze, all aided by the soft sounds of music, which, +at this distance from the castle, from whence it issued, was +inexpressibly sweet. It threw me into a sort of +enthusiastic and pleasing reverie, which made me ample amends for +the fatigues, discourtesies, and continued cross accidents I had +encountered in the course of the day.</p> +<p>I now left the forest; the clock struck six, and the workmen +were going home from their work.</p> +<p>I have forgot to mention the large round tower of the castle, +which is also a very ancient building. The roads that lead +to it are all along their sides planted with shrubs; these, being +modern and lively, make a pleasing contrast to the fine old mossy +walls. On the top of this tower the flag of Great Britain +is usually displayed, which, however, as it was now late in the +evening, was taken in.</p> +<p>As I came down from the castle I saw the king driving up to it +in a very plain, two-wheeled, open carriage. The people +here were politer than I used to think they were in London, for I +did not see a single person, high or low, who did not pull off +their hats as their sovereign passed them.</p> +<p>I was now again in Windsor, and found myself, not far from the +castle, opposite to a very capital inn, where I saw many officers +and several persons of consequence going in and out. And +here at this inn, contrary to all expectation, I was received by +the landlord with great civility, and even kindness—very +contrary to the haughty and insolent airs which the upstart at +the other, and his jackanapes of a waiter, there thought fit to +give themselves.</p> +<p>However, it seemed to be my fate to be still a scandal and an +eyesore to all the waiters. The maid, by the order of her +master, showed me a room where I might adjust my dress a little; +but I could hear her mutter and grumble as she went along with +me. Having put myself a little to rights, I went down into +the coffee-room, which is immediately at the entrance of the +house, and told the landlord that I thought I wished to have yet +one more walk. On this he obligingly directed me to stroll +down a pleasant field behind his house, at the foot of which, he +said, I should find the Thames, and a good bathing place.</p> +<p>I followed his advice; and this evening was, if possible, +finer than the preceding. Here again, as I had been told I +should, I found the Thames with all its gentle windings. +Windsor shone nearly as bright over the green vale as those +charming houses on Richmond Hill, and the verdure was not less +soft and delicate. The field I was in seemed to slope a +little towards the Thames. I seated myself near a bush, and +there waited the going down of the sun. At a distance I saw +a number of people bathing in the Thames. When, after +sunset, they were a little dispersed, I drew near the spot I had +been directed to; and here, for the first time, I sported in the +cool tide of the Thames. The bank was steep, but my +landlord had dug some steps that went down into the water, which +is extremely convenient for those who cannot swim. Whilst I +was there, a couple of smart lively apprentice boys came also +from the town, who, with the greatest expedition, threw off their +clothes and leathern aprons, and plunged themselves, head +foremost, into the water, where they opposed the tide with their +sinewy arms till they were tired. They advised me, with +much natural civility, to untie my hair, and that then, like +them, I might plunge into the stream head foremost.</p> +<p>Refreshed and strengthened by this cool bath, I took a long +walk by moonlight on the banks of the Thames. To my left +were the towers of Windsor, before me a little village with a +steeple, the top of which peeped out among the green trees, at a +distance two inviting hills which I was to climb in the morning, +and around me the green cornfields. Oh! how indescribably +beautiful was this evening and this walk! At a distance +among the houses I could easily descry the inn where I lodged, +and where I seemed to myself at length to have found a place of +refuge and a home; and I thought, if I could but stay there, I +should not be very sorry if I were never to find another.</p> +<p>How soon did all these pleasing dreams vanish! On my +return the waiters (who, from my appearance, too probably +expected but a trifling reward for their attentions to me) +received me gruffly, and as if they were sorry to see me +again. This was not all; I had the additional mortification +to be again roughly accosted by the cross maid who had before +shown me to the bed-chamber, and who, dropping a kind of half +courtesy, with a suppressed laugh, sneeringly told me I might +look out for another lodging, as I could not sleep there, since +the room she had by mistake shown me was already engaged. +It can hardly be necessary to tell you that I loudly protested +against this sudden change. At length the landlord came, +and I appealed to him; and he with great courtesy immediately +desired another room to be shown me, in which, however, there +were two beds, so that I was obliged to admit a companion. +Thus was I very near being a second time turned out of an +inn.</p> +<p>Directly under my room was the tap-room, from which I could +plainly hear too much of the conversation of some low people, who +were drinking and singing songs, in which, as far as I could +understand them, there were many passages at least as vulgar and +nonsensical as ours.</p> +<p>This company, I guessed, consisted chiefly of soldiers and low +fellows. I was hardly well lulled to sleep by this +hurly-burly, when my chum (probably one of the drinking party +below) came stumbling into the room and against my bed. At +length, though not without some difficulty, he found his own bed, +into which he threw himself just as he was, without staying to +pull off either clothes or boots.</p> +<p>This morning I rose very early, as I had proposed, in order to +climb the two hills which yesterday presented me with so inviting +a prospect, and in particular that one of them on the summit of +which a high white house appeared among the dark-green trees; the +other was close by.</p> +<p>I found no regular path leading to these hills, and therefore +went straight forward, without minding roads, only keeping in +view the object of my aim. This certainly created me some +trouble. I had sometimes a hedge, and sometimes a hog to +walk round; but at length I had attained the foot of the so +earnestly wished-for hill with the high white house on its +summit, when, just as I was going to ascend it, and was already +pleasing myself in the idea with the prospect from the white +house, behold I read these words on a board: “Take care! +there are steel traps and spring guns here.”</p> +<p>All my labour was lost, and I now went round to the other +hill; but here were also steel traps and spring gnus, though +probably never intended to annoy such a wanderer as myself, who +wished only to enjoy the fine morning air from this eminence.</p> +<p>Thus disappointed in my hopes, I returned to Windsor, much in +the same temper and manner as I had yesterday morning from +Richmond Hill; where my wishes had also been frustrated.</p> +<p>When I got to my inn, I received from the ill-tempered maid, +who seemed to have been stationed there on purpose to plague and +vex me, the polite welcome, that on no account should I sleep +another night there. Luckily, that was not my +intention. I now write to you in the coffee room, where two +Germans are talking together, who certainly little suspect how +well I understand them; if I were to make myself known to them, +as a German, most probably, even these fellows would not speak to +me, because I travel on foot. I fancy they are +Hanoverians! The weather is so fine that, notwithstanding +the inconveniences I have hitherto experienced on this account, I +think I shall continue my journey in the same manner.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Oxford</i>, <i>June</i> 25.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">To</span> what various, singular, and +unaccountable fatalities and adventures are not foot-travellers +exposed, in this land of carriages and horses! But, I will +begin my relation in form and order.</p> +<p>In Windsor, I was obliged to pay for an old fowl I had for +supper, for a bedroom which I procured with some difficulty, and +not without murmurs, and in which, to complete my misadventures, +I was disturbed by a drunken fellow; and for a couple of dishes +of tea, nine shillings, of which the fowl alone was charged six +shillings.</p> +<p>As I was going away the waiter, who had served me with so very +ill a grace, placed himself on the stairs and said, “Pray +remember the waiter.” I gave him three halfpence, on +which he saluted me with the heartiest “G—d d—n +you, sir!” I had ever heard. At the door stood the +cross maid, who also accosted me with, “Pray remember the +chambermaid.” “Yes, yes,” said I, +“I shall long remember your most ill-mannered behaviour and +shameful incivility;” and so I gave her nothing. I +hope she was stung and nettled at my reproof; however, she strove +to stifle her anger by a contemptuous, loud, hoarse laugh. +Thus, as I left Windsor, I was literally followed by abuses and +curses.</p> +<p>I am very sorry to say that I rejoiced when I once more +perceived the towers of Windsor behind me. It is not proper +for wanderers to be prowling near the palaces of kings, and so I +sat me down, philosophically, in the shade of a green hedge, and +again read Milton, no friend of kings, though the first of +poets. Whatever I may think of their inns, it is impossible +not to admire and be charmed with this country.</p> +<p>I took my way through Slough, by Salthill, to +Maidenhead. At Salthill, which can hardly be called even a +village, I saw a barber’s shop, and so I resolved to get +myself both shaved and dressed. For putting my hair a +little in order, and shaving me, I was forced to pay him a +shilling. Opposite to this shop there stands an elegant +house and a neat garden.</p> +<p>Between Salthill and Maidenhead, I met with the first very +remarkable and alarming adventure that has occurred during my +pilgrimage.</p> +<p>Hitherto I had scarcely met a single foot passenger, whilst +coaches without number every moment rolled past me, for there are +few roads, even in England, more crowded than this western road, +which leads to Bath and Bristol as well as to Oxford. I now +also began to meet numbers of people on horseback, which is by no +means an usual method of travelling.</p> +<p>The road now led me along a low sunken piece of ground between +high trees, so that I could not see far before me, when a fellow +in a brown frock and round hat, with a stick in his hand a great +deal stronger than mine, came up to me. His countenance +immediately struck me as having in it something suspicious. +He however passed me; but, before I was aware, he turned back and +asked me for a halfpenny to buy, as he said, some bread, as he +had eaten nothing that day. I felt in my pocket, and found +that I had no halfpence: no, nor even a sixpence; in short, +nothing but shillings. I told him the circumstance, which I +hoped would excuse me; on which he said, with an air and manner +the drift of which I could not understand, “God bless my +soul!” This drew my attention still closer to the +huge brawny fist, which grasped his stick, and that closer +attention determined me immediately to put my hand in my pocket +and give him a shilling. Meanwhile a coach came up. +The fellow thanked me and went on. Had the coach come a +moment sooner, I should not easily have given him the shilling, +which, God knows, I could not well spare. Whether this was +a footpad or not, I will not pretend to say, but he had every +appearance of it.</p> +<p>I now came to Maidenhead bridge, which is five-and-twenty +English miles from London.</p> +<p>The English milestones give me much pleasure, and they +certainly are a great convenience to travellers. They have +often seemed to ease me of half the distance of a journey merely +by telling me how far I had already gone, and by assuring me that +I was on the right road. For, besides the distance from +London, every milestone informs you that to the next place is so +many miles, and where there are cross-roads there are +direction-posts, so that it is hardly possible to lose +one’s-self in walking. I must confess that all this +journey has seemed but as it were one continued walk for +pleasure.</p> +<p>From Maidenhead bridge there is a delightful prospect towards +a hill, which extends itself along the right bank of the Thames, +and on the top of it there are two beautiful country seats, all +surrounded with meadows and parks. The first is called +Taplow, and belongs to the Earl of Inchiquin; and a little +farther Cliefden, which also belongs to him.</p> +<p>These villas seem all to be surrounded with green meadows, +lying along thick woods, and, altogether, are most charming.</p> +<p>From this bridge it is not far to Maidenhead, near which, on +the left, is another prospect of a beautiful seat, belonging to +Pennyston Powney, Esq.</p> +<p>All this knowledge I have gained chiefly from my English +guide; which I have constantly in my hand; and in which +everything most worthy of notice in every mile is marked. +These notices I get confirmed or refuted by the people at whose +houses I stop; who wonder how I, who am a foreigner, have come to +be so well acquainted with their country.</p> +<p>Maidenhead is a place of little note; for some mulled ale, +which I desired them to make me, I was obliged to pay +ninepence. I fancy they did not take me to be either a +great, or a very rich man, for I heard them say, as I passed on, +“A stout fellow!” This, though perhaps not +untrue, did not seem to sound in my ears as very respectful.</p> +<p>At the end of the village was a shoemaker’s shop, just +as at the end of Salthill there was a barber’s shop.</p> +<p>From hence I went to Henley, which is eleven miles from +Maidenhead, and thirty-six from London.</p> +<p>Having walked pretty fast for six English miles together, and +being now only five miles from Henley, I came to a rising ground +where there just happened to be a milestone, near which I sat +down, to enjoy one of the most delightful prospects, the +contemplation of which I recommend to everyone who may ever +happen to come to this spot. Close before me rose a soft +hill, full of green cornfields, fenced with quick-hedges, and the +top of it was encircled with a wood.</p> +<p>At some little distance, in a large semicircle, one green hill +rose after another, all around me, gently raising themselves +aloft from the banks of the Thames, and on which woods, meadows, +arable lands, and villages were interspersed in the greatest and +most beautiful variety; whilst at their foot the Thames +meandered, in most picturesque windings, among villages, +gentlemen’s seats, and green vales.</p> +<p>The banks of the Thames are everywhere beautiful, everywhere +charming; how delighted was I with the sight of it when, having +lost it for a short time, I suddenly and unexpectedly saw it +again with all its beautiful banks. In the vale below, +flocks were feeding; and from the hills I heard the sweet chimes +of distant bells.</p> +<p>The circumstance that renders these English prospects so +enchantingly beautiful, is a concurrence and union of the <i>tout +ensemble</i>. Everything coincides and conspires to render +them fine, moving pictures. It is impossible to name, or +find a spot, on which the eye would not delight to dwell. +Any of the least beautiful of any of these views that I have seen +in England would, anywhere in Germany, be deemed a paradise.</p> +<p>Reinforced, as it were, by this gratifying prospect, to +support fresh fatigues, I now walked a quick pace, both up and +down the hills, the five remaining miles to Henley, where I +arrived about four in the afternoon.</p> +<p>To the left, just before I got to Henley, on this side of the +Thames, I saw on a hill a fine park and a magnificent country +seat, at present occupied by General Conway.</p> +<p>Just before my entrance into Henley, I walked a little +directly on the banks of the Thames; and sat myself down in the +high grass, whilst opposite to me, on the other side, lay the +park on the hill. As I was a little tired, I fell asleep, +and when I awoke the last rays of the setting sun just shone upon +me.</p> +<p>Invigorated by this sweet, though short, slumber, I walked on +and entered the town. Its appearance, however, indicated +that it was too fine a place for me, and so I determined to stop +at an inn on the road-side, such a one as the Vicar of Wakefield +well calls, “the resort of indigence and +frugality.”</p> +<p>The worst of it was, no one, even in these places of refuge, +would take me in. Yet, on this road, I met two farmers, the +first of whom I asked whether he thought I could get a +night’s lodging at a house which I saw at a distance, by +the road side. “Yes, sir, I daresay you may,” +he replied. But he was mistaken: when I came there, I was +accosted with that same harsh salutation, which though, alas, no +longer quite new to me, was still unpleasing to my ears; +“We have got no beds; you can’t stay here +to-night.” It was the same at the other inn on +the road; I was therefore obliged to determine to walk on as far +as Nettlebed, which was five miles farther, where I arrived +rather late in the evening, when it was indeed quite dark.</p> +<p>Everything seemed to be all alive in this little village; +there was a party of militia soldiers who were dancing, singing, +and making merry. Immediately on my entrance into the +village, the first house that I saw, lying on my left, was an +inn, from which, as usual in England, a large beam extended +across the street to the opposite house, from which hung dangling +an astonishing large sign, with the name of the proprietor.</p> +<p>“May I stay here to-night?” I asked with +eagerness. “Why, yes, you may;” an answer +which, however cold and surly, made me exceedingly happy.</p> +<p>They showed me into the kitchen, and set me down to sup at the +same table with some soldiers and the servants. I now, for +the first time, found myself in one of those kitchens which I had +so often read of in Fielding’s fine novels; and which +certainly give one, on the whole, a very accurate idea of English +manners.</p> +<p>The chimney in this kitchen, where they were roasting and +boiling, seemed to be taken off from the rest of the room and +enclosed by a wooden partition; the rest of the apartment was +made use of as a sitting and eating-room. All round on the +sides were shelves with pewter dishes and plates, and the ceiling +was well stored with provisions of various kinds, such as +sugar-loaves, black-puddings, hams, sausages, flitches of bacon, +&c.</p> +<p>While I was eating, a post-chaise drove up, and in a moment +both the folding-doors were thrown open and the whole house set +in motion, in order to receive, with all due respect, these +guests, who, no doubt, were supposed to be persons of +consequence. The gentlemen alighted, however, only for a +moment, and called for nothing but a couple of pots of beer, and +then drove away again. Notwithstanding, the people of the +house behaved to them with all possible attention, for they came +in a post-chaise.</p> +<p>Though this was only an ordinary village, and they certainly +did not take me for a person of consequence, they yet gave me a +carpeted bedroom, and a very good bed.</p> +<p>The next morning I put on clean linen, which I had along with +me, and dressed myself as well as I could. And now, when I +thus made my appearance, they did not, as they had the evening +before, show me into the kitchen, but into the parlour, a room +that seemed to be allotted for strangers, on the +ground-floor. I was also now addressed by the most +respectful term, “sir;” whereas the evening before I +had been called only “master”: by this latter +appellation, I believe, it is usual to address only farmers and +quite common people.</p> +<p>This was Sunday, and all the family were in their +Sunday-clothes. I now began to be much pleased with this +village, and so I resolved to stop at it for the day, and attend +divine service. For this purpose I borrowed a prayer-book +of my host. Mr. Illing was his name, which struck me the +more, perhaps, because it is a very common name in Germany. +During my breakfast I read over several parts of the English +liturgy, and could not help being struck at the circumstance that +every word in the whole service seems to be prescribed and +dictated to the clergyman. They do not visit the sick but +by a prescribed form; as, for instance, they must begin by +saying, “Peace be to this house,” &c.</p> +<p>Its being called a prayer-book, rather than, like ours, a +hymn-book, arises from the nature of the English service, which +is composed very little of singing, and almost entirely of +praying. The psalms of David, however, are here translated +into English verse, and are generally printed at the end of +English prayer-books.</p> +<p>The prayer-book which my landlord lent me was quite a family +piece, for all his children’s births and names, and also +his own wedding-day, were very carefully set down on it. +Even on this account alone the book would not have been +uninteresting to me.</p> +<p>At half-past nine the service began. Directly opposite +to our house, the boys of the village were all drawn up, as if +they had been recruits to be drilled; all well-looking, healthy +lads, neat and decently dressed, and with their hair cut short +and combed on the forehead, according to the English fashion; +their bosoms were open, and the white frills of their shirts +turned back on each side. They seemed to be drawn up here +at the entrance of the village merely to wait the arrival of the +clergyman.</p> +<p>I walked a little way out of the village, where, at some +distance, I saw several people coming from another village, to +attend divine service here at Nettlebed.</p> +<p>At length came the parson on horseback. The boys pulled +off their hats, and all made him very low bows. He appeared +to be rather an elderly man, and wore his own hair round and +decently dressed, or rather curled naturally.</p> +<p>The bell now rung in, and so I too, with a sort of secret +proud sensation, as if I also had been an Englishman, went with +my prayer-book under my arm to church, along with the rest of the +congregation; and when I got into the church, the clerk very +civilly seated me close to the pulpit.</p> +<p>Nothing can possibly be more simple, apt, and becoming than +the few decorations of this church.</p> +<p>Directly over the altar, on two tables in large letters, the +ten commandments were written. There surely is much wisdom +and propriety in thus placing, full in the view of the people, +the sum and substance of all morality.</p> +<p>Under the pulpit near the steps that led up to it, was a desk, +from which the clergyman read the liturgy, the responses were all +regularly made by the clerk; the whole congregation joining +occasionally, though but in a low voice; as for instance, the +minister said, “Lord, have mercy upon us!” the clerk +and the congregation immediately subjoin, “and forgive us +all our sins.” In general, when the clergyman offers +up a prayer, the clerk and the whole congregation answer only, +Amen!</p> +<p>The English service must needs be exceedingly fatiguing to the +officiating minister, inasmuch as besides a sermon, the greatest +part of the liturgy falls to his share to read, besides the +psalms and two lessons.</p> +<p>The joining of the whole congregation in prayer has something +exceedingly solemn and affecting in it.</p> +<p>Two soldiers, who sat near me in the church, and who had +probably been in London, seemed to wish to pass for philosophers, +and wits; for they did not join in the prayers of the church.</p> +<p>The service was now pretty well advanced, when I observed some +little stir in the desk, the clerk was busy, and they seemed to +be preparing for something new and solemn, and I also perceived +several musical instruments. The clergyman now stopped, and +the clerk then said in a loud voice, “Let us sing to the +praise and glory of God, the forty-seventh psalm.”</p> +<p>I cannot well express how affecting and edifying it seemed to +me, to hear this whole orderly and decent congregation, in this +small country church, joining together with vocal and +instrumental music, in the praise of their Maker. It was +the more grateful, as having been performed, not by mercenary +musicians, but by the peaceful and pious inhabitants of this +sweet village. I can hardly figure to myself any offering +more likely to be grateful to God.</p> +<p>The congregation sang and prayed alternately several times, +and the tunes of the psalms were particularly lively and +cheerful, though at the same time sufficiently grave, and +uncommonly interesting. I am a warm admirer of all sacred +music, and I cannot but add that that of the Church of England is +particularly calculated to raise the heart to devotion; I own it +often affected me even to tears.</p> +<p>The clergyman now stood up and made a short but very proper +discourse on this text: “Not all they who say, Lord, Lord! +shall enter the kingdom of heaven.” His language was +particularly plain, though forcible; his arguments were no less +plain, convincing, and earnest, but contained nothing that was +particularly striking. I do not think the sermon lasted +more than half an hour.</p> +<p>This clergyman had not perhaps a very prepossessing +appearance; I thought him also a little distant and reserved, and +I did not quite like his returning the bows of the farmers with a +very formal nod.</p> +<p>I stayed till the service was quite over, and then went out of +the church with the congregation, and amused myself with reading +the inscriptions on the tombstones in the churchyard, which in +general, are simpler, more pathetic, and better written than +ours.</p> +<p>There were some of them which, to be sure, were ludicrous and +laughable enough.</p> +<p>Among these is one on the tomb of a smith, which on account of +its singularity, I here copy and send you.</p> +<blockquote><p>“My sledge and anvil he declined,<br /> +My bellows too have lost their wind;<br /> +My fire’s extinct, my forge decayed,<br /> +My coals are spent, my iron’s gone,<br /> +My nails are drove: my work is done.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Many of these epitaphs closed with the following quaint +rhymes:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Physicians were in vain;<br /> +God knew the best;<br /> +So here I rest.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In the body of the church I saw a marble monument of a son of +the celebrated Dr. Wallis, with the following simple and +affecting inscription:</p> +<blockquote><p>“The same good sense which qualified him for +every public employment<br /> +Taught him to spend his life here in retirement.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>All the farmers whom I saw there were dressed, not as ours +are, in coarse frocks, but with some taste, in fine good cloth; +and were to be distinguished from the people of the town, not so +much by their dress, as by the greater simplicity and modesty of +their behaviour.</p> +<p>Some soldiers, who probably were ambitious of being thought to +know the world, and to be wits, joined me, as I was looking at +the church, and seemed to be quite ashamed of it, as they said it +was only a very miserable church. On which I took the +liberty to inform them, that no church could be miserable which +contained orderly and good people.</p> +<p>I stayed here to dinner. In the afternoon there was no +service; the young people however, went to church, and there sang +some few psalms; others of the congregation were also +present. This was conducted with so much decorum, that I +could hardly help considering it as actually a kind of +church-service. I stayed with great pleasure till this +meeting also was over.</p> +<p>I seemed indeed to be enchanted, and as if I could not leave +this village. Three times did I get off, in order to go on +farther, and as often returned, more than half resolved to spend +a week, or more, in my favourite Nettlebed.</p> +<p>But the recollection that I had but a few weeks to stay in +England, and that I must see Derbyshire, at length drove me +away. I cast many a longing, lingering look on the little +church-steeple, and those hospitable friendly roofs, where, all +that morning, I had found myself so perfectly at home.</p> +<p>It was now nearly three o’clock in the afternoon when I +left this place, and I was still eighteen miles from +Oxford. However, I seemed resolved to make more than one +stage of it to Oxford, that seat of the muses, and so, by passing +the night about five miles from it, to reach it in good time next +morning.</p> +<p>The road from Nettlebed seemed to me but as one long fine +gravel walk in a neat garden. And my pace in it was varied, +like that of one walking in a garden: I sometimes walked quick, +then slow, and then sat down and read Milton.</p> +<p>When I had got about eight miles from Nettlebed, and was now +not far from Dorchester, I had the Thames at some distance on my +left, and on the opposite side I saw an extensive hill, behind +which a tall mast seemed to rise. This led me to suppose +that on the other side of the hill there must needs also be a +river. The prospect I promised myself from this hill could +not possibly be passed, and so I went out of the road to the left +over a bridge across the Thames, and mounted the hill, always +keeping the mast in view. When I had attained the summit, I +found (and not without some shame and chagrin) that it was all an +illusion. There was, in fact, nothing before me but a great +plain, and the mast had been fixed there, either as a maypole +only, or to entice curious people out of their way.</p> +<p>I therefore now again, slowly and sullenly, descended the +hill, at the bottom of which was a house, where several people +were looking out of the window, and, as I supposed, laughing at +me. Even if it were so, it seemed to be but fair, and so it +rather amused, than vexed me, and I continued to jog on, without +much regretting my waste journey to the mast.</p> +<p>Not far from Dorchester, I had another delightful view. +The country here became so fine, that I positively could not +prevail on myself to quit it, and so I laid myself down on the +green turf, which was so fresh and sweet, that I could almost +have been contented, like Nebuchadnezzar, to have grazed on +it. The moon was at the full; the sun darted its last +parting rays through the green hedges, to all which was added, +the overpowering fragrance of the meadows, the diversified song +of the birds, the hills that skirted the Thames, some of them of +a light, and others of a dark-green hue, with the tufted tops of +trees dispersed here and there among them. The +contemplation of all these delightful circumstances well-nigh +overcame me.</p> +<p>I arrived rather late at Dorchester. This is only a +small place, but there is in it a large and noble old +church. As I was walking along, I saw several ladies with +their heads dressed, leaning out of their windows, or standing +before the houses, and this made me conclude that this was too +fine a place for me, and so I determined to walk on +three-quarters of a mile farther to Nuneham, which place is only +five miles from Oxford. When I reached Nuneham, I was not a +little tired, and it was also quite dark.</p> +<p>The place consists of two rows of low, neat houses, built +close to each other, and as regular and uniform as a London +street. All the doors seemed to be shut, and even a light +was to be seen only in a few of them.</p> +<p>At length quite at the end of the place, I perceived a great +sign hanging across the street, and the last house to the left +was the inn, at which everything seemed to be still in +motion.</p> +<p>I entered without ceremony, and told them my errand, which +was, that I intended to sleep there that night. “By +no means,” was the answer, “it was utterly +impossible; the whole house was full, and all their beds engaged, +and, as I had come so far, I might even as well walk on the +remaining five miles to Oxford.”</p> +<p>Being very hungry, I requested that, at least, they would give +me something to eat. To this they answered that, as I could +not stay all night there, it would be more proper for me to sup +where I lodged, and so I might go on.</p> +<p>At length, quite humbled by the untowardness of my +circumstances, I asked for a pot of beer, and that they did +vouchsafe to give me, for ready money only; but a bit of bread to +eat with it (for which also I would willingly have paid) they +peremptorily refused me.</p> +<p>Such unparalleled inhospitality I really could not have +expected in an English inn, but resolving, with a kind of +spiteful indignation, to see how far their inhumanity would carry +them, I begged that they would only let me sleep on a bench, and +merely give me house-room, adding, that if they would grant me +that boon only, I would pay them the same as for a bed, for, that +I was so tired, I could not possibly go any farther. Even +in the moment that I was thus humbly soliciting this humble boon, +they banged the door to full in my face.</p> +<p>As here, in a small village, they had refused to receive me, +it seemed to be presumption to hope that I should gain admittance +at Oxford. What could I do? I was much tired, and so, +as it was not a very cold night, I resolved to pass it in the +open air; in this resolution, bouncing from this rude inn, I went +to look out for a convenient spot for that purpose in an +adjoining field, beneath some friendly tree. Just as I had +found a place, which I thought would do, and was going to pull +off my great coat to lay under my head by way of pillow, I heard +someone behind me, following me with a quick pace. At first +I was alarmed, but my fears were soon dispelled by his calling +after me, and asking “if I would accept of +company.”</p> +<p>As little as anyone is to be trusted who thus follows you into +a field in a dark night, yet it was a pleasure to me to find that +there were still some beings not quite inhuman, and at least one +person who still interested himself about me, I therefore +stopped, and as he came up to me he said that if I was a good +walker, we might keep each other company, as he was also going to +Oxford. I readily accepted of his proposal, and so we +immediately set off together.</p> +<p>Now, as I could not tell whether my travelling companion was +to be trusted or not, I soon took an opportunity to let him know +that I was poor, and much distressed. To confirm this, I +told him of the inhumanity with which I had just been treated at +the inn, where they refused a poor wanderer so much as a place to +lay his head, or even a morsel of bread for his money.</p> +<p>My companion somewhat excused the people by saying that the +house was really full of people who had been at work in the +neighbourhood, and now slept there. But that they had +refused me a bit of bread he certainly could not justify. +As we went along, other topics of conversation were started, and +among other things he asked me where I came from that day.</p> +<p>I answered from Nettlebed, and added, that I had attended +divine service there that morning.</p> +<p>“As you probably passed through Dorchester this +afternoon,” said he, “you might have heard me preach +also, had you come into the church there, for that is my curacy, +from which I am just come, and am now returning to +Oxford.” “So you are a clergyman;” said +I, quite overjoyed that, in a dark night, I had met a companion +on the road, who was of the same profession as myself. +“And I, also,” said I, “am a preacher of the +gospel, though not of this country.” And now I +thought it right to give him to understand, that it was not, as I +had before intimated, out of absolute poverty, but with a view of +becoming better acquainted with men and manners, that I thus +travelled on foot. He was as much pleased with this +agreeable meeting as myself, and before we took a step farther, +we cordially shook hands.</p> +<p>He now began to address me in Latin, and on my answering him +in that language, which I attempted to pronounce according to the +English manner of speaking it, he applauded me not a little for +my correct pronunciation. He then told me, that some years +ago, in the night also, and nearly at the same spot where he +found me, he had met another German, who likewise spoke to him in +Latin; but this unknown countryman of mine had pronounced it so +very badly, that he said it was absolutely unintelligible.</p> +<p>The conversation now turned on various theological matters; +and among others on the novel notions of a Dr. Priestly, whom he +roundly blamed. I was not at all disposed to dispute that +point with him, and so, professing with great sincerity, a high +esteem for the Church of England, and great respect and regard +for its clergy, I seemed to gain his good opinion.</p> +<p>Beguiling the tediousness of the road by such discourse, we +were now got, almost without knowing it, quite to Oxford.</p> +<p>He told me I should now see one of the finest and most +beautiful cities, not only in England, but in all Europe. +All he lamented, was, that on account of the darkness of the +night, I should not immediately see it.</p> +<p>This really was the case: “And now,” said he, as +we entered the town, “I introduce you into Oxford by one of +the finest, the longest, and most beautiful streets, not only in +this city, but in England, and I may safely add in all +Europe.”</p> +<p>The beauty and the magnificence of the street I could not +distinguish; but of its length I was perfectly sensible by my +fatigue; for we still went on, and still through the longest, the +finest, and most beautiful street in Europe, which seemed to have +no end; nor had I any assurance that I should be able to find a +bed for myself in all this famous street. At length my +companion stopped to take leave of me, and said he should now go +to his college.</p> +<p>“And I,” said I, “will seat myself for the +night on this stone bench and await the morning, as it will be in +vain for me, I imagine, to look for shelter in a house at this +time of night.”</p> +<p>“Seat yourself on a stone!” said my companion, and +shook his head. “No, no! come along with me to a +neighbouring ale-house, where it is possible they mayn’t be +gone to bed, and we may yet find company.” We went on +a few houses further, and then knocked at a door. It was +then nearly twelve. They readily let us in; but how great +was my astonishment, when, on being shown into a room on the +left, I saw a great number of clergymen, all with their gowns and +bands on, sitting round a large table, each with his pot of beer +before him. My travelling companion introduced me to them, +as a German clergyman, whom he could not sufficiently praise for +my correct pronunciation of the Latin, my orthodoxy, and my good +walking.</p> +<p>I now saw myself in a moment, as it were, all at once +transported into the midst of a company, all apparently very +respectable men, but all strangers to me. And it appeared +to me extraordinary that I should, thus at midnight, be in +Oxford, in a large company of Oxonian clergy, without well +knowing how I had got there. Meanwhile, however, I took all +the pains in my power to recommend myself to my company, and in +the course of conversation, I gave them as good an account as I +could of our German universities, neither denying nor concealing +that, now and then, we had riots and disturbances. +“Oh, we are very unruly here, too,” said one of the +clergymen as he took a hearty draught out of his pot of beer, and +knocked on the table with his hand. The conversation now +became louder, more general, and a little confused; they enquired +after Mr. Bruns, at present professor at Helmstadt, and who was +known by many of them.</p> +<p>Among these gentlemen there was one of the name of Clerk, who +seemed ambitious to pass for a great wit, which he attempted by +starting sundry objections to the Bible. I should have +liked him better if he had confined himself to punning and +playing on his own name, by telling us again and again, that he +should still be at least a Clerk, even though he should never +become a clergyman. Upon the whole, however, he was, in his +way, a man of some humour, and an agreeable companion.</p> +<p>Among other objections to the Scriptures, he started this one +to my travelling companion, whose name I now learnt was Maud, +that it was said in the Bible that God was a wine-bibber. +On this Mr. Maud fell into a violent passion, and maintained that +it was utterly impossible that any such passage should be found +in the Bible. Another divine, a Mr. Caern referred us to +his absent brother, who had already been forty years in the +church, and must certainly know something of such a passage if it +were in the Bible, but he would venture to lay any wager his +brother knew nothing of it.</p> +<p>“Waiter! fetch a Bible!” called out Mr. Clerk, and +a great family Bible was immediately brought in, and opened on +the table among all the beer jugs.</p> +<p>Mr. Clerk turned over a few leaves, and in the book of Judges, +9th chapter, verse xiii, he read, “Should I leave my wine, +which cheereth God and man?”</p> +<p>Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, who had before been most violent, now +sat as if struck dumb. A silence of some minutes prevailed, +when all at once, the spirit of revelation seemed to come on me, +and I said, “Why, gentlemen, you must be sensible that it +is but an allegorical expression;” and I added, “how +often in the Bible are kings called gods!”</p> +<p>“Why, yes, to be sure,” said Mr. Maud and Mr. +Caern, “it is an allegorical expression; nothing can be +more clear; it is a metaphor, and therefore it is absurd to +understand it in a literal sense.” And now they, in +their turn, triumphed over poor Clerk, and drank large draughts +to my health in strong ale; which, as my company seemed to like +so much, I was sorry I could not like. It either +intoxicated or stupefied me; and I do think it overpowers one +much sooner than so much wine would. The conversation now +turned on many other different subjects. At last, when +morning drew near, Mr. Maud suddenly exclaimed, “D-n me, I +must read prayers this morning at All-Souls!” D-n me +is an abbreviation of G—d d—n me; which, in England, +does not seem to mean more mischief or harm than any of our or +their common expletives in conversation, such as O gemini! or, +The deuce take me!</p> +<p>Before Mr. Maud went away, he invited me to go and see him in +the morning, and very politely offered himself to show me the +curiosities of Oxford. The rest of the company now also +dispersed; and as I had once (though in so singular a manner) +been introduced into so reputable a society, the people of the +house made no difficulty of giving me lodging, but with great +civility showed me a very decent bed-chamber.</p> +<p>I am almost ashamed to own, that next morning, when I awoke, I +had got so dreadful a headache, from the copious and numerous +toasts of my jolly and reverend friends, that I could not +possibly get up; still less could I wait on Mr. Maud at his +college.</p> +<p>The inn where I was goes by the name of the Mitre. +Compared to Windsor, I here found prince-like attendance. +Being, perhaps, a little elevated the preceding evening, I had in +the gaiety, or perhaps in the vanity of my heart, told the +waiter, that he must not think, because I came on foot, that +therefore I should give him less than others gave. I +assured him of the contrary. It was probably not a little +owing to this assurance that I had so much attention shown to +me.</p> +<p>I now determined to stay at least a couple of days at Oxford; +it was necessary and proper, if for no other reason, yet merely +that I might have clean linen. No people are so cleanly as +the English, nor so particular about neat and clean linen. +For, one afternoon, my shirt not having been lately changed, as I +was walking through a little street, I heard two women, who were +standing at a door, call after me, “Look at the gentleman +there! a fine gentleman, indeed, who cannot afford even a clean +shirt!”</p> +<p>I dined below with the family, and a few other persons, and +the conversation in general was agreeable enough. I was +obliged to tell them many wonderful stories (for who are so +illiterate or insensible as not to be delighted with the +marvellous!) concerning Germany and the King of Prussia. +They could not sufficiently admire my courage in determining to +travel on foot, although they could not help approving of the +motive. At length, however, it came out, and they candidly +owned, that I should not have been received into their house, had +I not been introduced as I was.</p> +<p>I was now confirmed in my suspicions, that, in England, any +person undertaking so long a journey on foot, is sure to be +looked upon and considered as either a beggar or a vagabond, or +some necessitous wretch, which is a character not much more +popular than that of a rogue; so that I could now easily account +for my reception in Windsor and at Nuneham. But, with all +my partiality for this country, it is impossible even in theory, +and much less so in practice, to approve of a system which +confines all the pleasures and benefits of travel to the +rich. A poor peripatetic is hardly allowed even the humble +merit of being honest.</p> +<p>As I still intended to pursue my journey to Derbyshire, I was +advised (at least till I got further into the country) to take a +place in a post-coach. They told me that the further I got +from London, the more reasonable and humble I should find the +people; everything would be cheaper, and everybody more +hospitable. This determined me to go in the post-coach from +Oxford to Birmingham; where Mr. Pointer, of London, had +recommended me to a Mr. Fothergill, a merchant there; and from +thence to continue my journey on foot.</p> +<p>Monday I spent at Oxford, but rather unpleasantly, on account +of my headache. Mr. Maud himself came to fetch me, as he +had promised he would, but I found myself unable to go with +him.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding this, in the afternoon, I took a little walk +up a hill, which lies to the north of Oxford; and from the top of +which I could see the whole city; which did not, however, appear +to me nearly so beautiful and magnificent as Mr. Maud had +described it to me during our last night’s walk.</p> +<p>The colleges are mostly in the Gothic taste, and much +overloaded with ornaments, and built with grey stone; which, +perhaps, while it is new, looks pretty well, but it has now the +most dingy, dirty, and disgusting appearance that you can +possibly imagine.</p> +<p>Only one of these colleges is in the modern style. The +houses of the city are in general ordinary, in some parts quite +miserable; in some streets they are only one story high, and have +shingled roofs. To me Oxford seemed to have but a dull and +gloomy look; and I cannot but wonder how it ever came to be +considered as so fine a city, and next to London.</p> +<p>I remained on the hill, on which there was a flight of steps +that led to a subterraneous walk, till sunset, and saw several +students walking here, who wore their black gowns over their +coloured clothes, and flat square hats, just like those I had +seen worn by the Eton scholars. This is the general dress +of all those who belong to the universities, with the exception +of a very trifling difference, by which persons of high birth and +rank are distinguished.</p> +<p>It is probably on account of these gowns that the members of +the university are called Gownsmen, to distinguish them from the +citizens, who are called Townsmen; and when you want to mention +all the inhabitants of Oxford together, you say, “the whole +town, Gownsmen and Townsmen.”</p> +<p>This dress, I must own, pleases me far beyond the boots, +cockades, and other frippery, of many of our students. Nor +am I less delighted with the better behaviour and conduct which, +in general, does so much credit to the students of Oxford.</p> +<p>The next morning Mr. Maud, according to his promise, showed me +some of the things most worthy of notice in Oxford. And +first he took me to his own room in his own college, which was on +the ground floor, very low and dark, and resembled a cell, at +least as much as a place of study. The name of this college +is Corpus Christi. He next conducted me to All Souls’ +College, a very elegant building, in which the chapel is +particularly beautiful. Mr. Maud also showed me, over the +altar here, a fine painting of Mengs, at the sight of which he +showed far more sensibility than I thought him possessed +of. He said that notwithstanding he saw that painting +almost daily, he never saw it without being much affected.</p> +<p>The painting represented Mary Magdalene when she first +suddenly sees Jesus standing before her, and falls at His +feet. And in her countenance pain, joy, grief, in short +almost all the strongest of our passions, are expressed in so +masterly a manner, that no man of true taste was ever tired of +contemplating it; the longer it is looked at the more it is +admired. He now also showed me the library of this college, +which is provided with a gallery round the top, and the whole is +most admirably regulated and arranged. Among other things, +I here saw a description of Oxford, with plates to illustrate it: +and I cannot help observing what, though trite, is true, that all +these places look much better, and are far more beautiful on +paper, than they appeared to me to be as I looked at them where +they actually stand.</p> +<p>Afterwards Mr. Maud conducted me to the Bodleian Library, +which is not unworthy of being compared to the Vatican at Rome; +and next to the building which is called the Theatre, and where +the public orations are delivered. This is a circular +building with a gallery all round it, which is furnished with +benches one above the other, on which the doctors, masters of +arts, and students sit, and directly opposite to each other are +erected two chairs, or pulpits, from which the disputants +harangue and contend.</p> +<p>Christ Church and Queen’s College are the most modern, +and, I think, indisputably the best built of all the +colleges. Balliol College seems particularly to be +distinguished on account of its antiquity, and its complete +Gothic style of building.</p> +<p>Mr. Maud told me that a good deal of money might be sometimes +earned by preaching at Oxford; for all the members of a certain +standing are obliged in their turn to preach in the church of the +university; but many of them, when it comes to their turn, prefer +the procuring a substitute; and so not unfrequently pay as high +as five or six guineas for a sermon.</p> +<p>Mr. Maud also told me he had been now eighteen years at this +university, and might be made a doctor whenever he chose it: he +was a master of arts, and according to his own account gave +lectures in his college on the classics. He also did the +duty and officiated as curate, occasionally, in some of the +neighbouring villages. Going along the street we met the +English poet laureate, Warton, now rather an elderly man; and yet +he is still the fellow of a college. His greatest pleasure +next to poetry is, as Mr. Maud told me, shooting wild ducks.</p> +<p>Mr. Maud seemed upon the whole to be a most worthy and +philanthropic man. He told me, that where he now officiated +the clerk was dead, and had left a numerous family in the +greatest distress; and that he was going to the place next day, +on purpose to try if he could bring about the election of the +son, a lad about sixteen years of age, in the place of his +deceased father, as clerk, to support a necessitous family.</p> +<p>At the Mitre, the inn where I lodged, there was hardly a +minute in which some students or others did not call, either to +drink, or to amuse themselves in conversation with the daughter +of the landlord, who is not only handsome, but sensible, and well +behaved.</p> +<p>They often spoke to me much in praise of a German, of the name +of Mitchel, at least they pronounced it so, who had for many +years rendered himself famous as a musician. I was rejoiced +to hear one of my countrymen thus praised by the English; and +wished to have paid him a visit, but I had not the good fortune +to find him at home.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Castleton</i>, <i>June</i> +30<i>th</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Before</span> I tell you anything of the +place where I now am, I will proceed regularly in my narrative, +and so begin now where I left off in my last letter. On +Tuesday afternoon Mr. Maud took me to the different walks about +Oxford, and often remarked, that they were not only the finest in +England, but he believed in Europe. I own I do not think he +over-rated their merit. There is one in particular near the +river, and close to some charming meadows, behind Corpus Christi +College, which may fairly challenge the world.</p> +<p>We here seated ourselves on a bench, and Mr. Maud drew a +review from his pocket, where, among other things, a German book +of Professor Beckman’s was reviewed and applauded. +Mr. Maud seemed, on this occasion, to show some respect for +German literature. At length we parted. He went to +fill up the vacancy of the clerk’s place at Dorchester, and +I to the Mitre, to prepare for my departure from Oxford, which +took place on Wednesday morning at three o’clock, in the +post-coach. Considering the pleasing, if not kind attention +shown me here, I own I thought my bill not unreasonable; though +to be sure, it made a great hole in my little purse.</p> +<p>Within this coach there was another young man, who, though +dressed in black, yet to judge from the cockade in his hat might +be an officer. The outside was quite full with soldiers and +their wives. The women of the lower class here wear a kind +of short cloak made of red cloth: but women in general, from the +highest to the lowest, wear hats, which differ from each other +less in fashion than they do in fineness.</p> +<p>Fashion is so generally attended to among the English women, +that the poorest maid-servant is careful to be in the +fashion. They seem to be particularly so in their hats or +bonnets, which they all wear: and they are in my opinion far more +becoming than the very unsightly hoods and caps which our German +women, of the rank of citizens, wear. There is, through all +ranks here, not near so great a distinction between high and low +as there is in Germany.</p> +<p>I had, during this day, a little headache; which rendered me +more silent and reserved to my company than is either usual in +England or natural to me. The English are taxed, perhaps +too hastily, with being shy and distant to strangers. I do +not think this was, even formerly, their true character; or that +any such sentiment is conveyed in Virgil’s +“<i>Hospitibus feros</i>.” Be this as it may, +the case was here reversed. The Englishman here spoke to me +several times in a very friendly manner, while I testified not +the least inclination to enter into conversation with him.</p> +<p>He however owned afterwards that it was this very apparent +reserve of mine that first gained me his good opinion.</p> +<p>He said he had studied physic, but with no immediate view of +practising it. His intention, he said, was to go to the +East Indies, and there, first, to try his fortune as an +officer. And he was now going to Birmingham, merely to take +leave of his three sisters, whom he much loved, and who were at +school there.</p> +<p>I endeavoured to merit his confidence by telling him in my +turn of my journey on foot through England; and by relating to +him a few of the most remarkable of my adventures. He +frankly told me he thought it was venturing a great deal, yet he +applauded the design of my journey, and did not severely censure +my plan. On my asking him why Englishmen, who were so +remarkable for acting up to their own notions and ideas, did not, +now and then, merely to see life in every point of view, travel +on foot. “Oh,” said he, “we are too rich, +too lazy, and too proud.”</p> +<p>And most true it is, that the poorest Englishman one sees, is +prouder and better pleased to expose himself to the danger of +having his neck broken on the outside of a stage, than to walk +any considerable distance, though he might walk ever so much at +his ease. I own I was frightened and distressed when I saw +the women, where we occasionally stopped, get down from the top +of the coach. One of them was actually once in much danger +of a terrible fall from the roof, because, just as she was going +to alight, the horses all at once unexpectedly went on. +From Oxford to Birmingham is sixty-two miles; but all that was to +be seen between the two places was entirely lost to me, for I was +again mewed up in a post-coach, and driven along with such +velocity from one place to another, that I seemed to myself as +doing nothing less than travelling.</p> +<p>My companion, however, made me amends in some measure for this +loss. He seemed to be an exceedingly good-tempered and +intelligent man; and I felt in this short time a prepossession in +his favour one does not easily form for an ordinary person. +This, I flattered myself, was also the case with him, and it +would mortify me not a little to think he had quite forgotten me, +as I am sure I shall never forget him.</p> +<p>Just as we had been sometime eagerly conversing about +Shakespeare, we arrived, without either of us having thought of +it, at Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s birthplace, where +our coach stopped, that being the end of one stage. We were +still two-and-twenty miles from Birmingham, and ninety-four from +London. I need not tell you what our feelings were, on thus +setting our feet on classic ground.</p> +<p>It was here that perhaps the greatest genius nature ever +produced was born. Here he first lisped his native tongue; +here first conceived the embryos of those compositions which were +afterwards to charm a listening world; and on these plains the +young Hercules first played. And here, too, in this lowly +hut, with a few friends, he happily spent the decline of his +life, after having retired from the great theatre of that busy +world whose manners he had so faithfully portrayed.</p> +<p>The river Avon is here pretty broad, and a row of neat though +humble cottages, only one storey high, with shingled roofs, are +ranged all along its banks. These houses impressed me +strongly with the idea of patriarchal simplicity and content.</p> +<p>We went to see Shakespeare’s own house, which, of all +the houses at Stratford I think is now the worst, and one that +made the least appearance. Yet, who would not be proud to +be the owner of it? There now however lived in it only two +old people, who show it to strangers for a trifle, and what +little they earn thus is their chief income.</p> +<p>Shakespeare’s chair, in which he used to sit before the +door, was so cut to pieces that it hardly looked like a chair; +for every one that travels through Stratford cuts off a chip as a +remembrance, which he carefully preserves, and deems a precious +relic, I also cut myself a piece of it, but reverencing +Shakespeare as I do, I am almost ashamed to own to you it was so +small that I have lost it, and therefore you will not see it on +my return.</p> +<p>As we travelled, I observed every spot with attention, +fancying to myself that such or such a spot might be the place +where such a genius as Shakespeare’s first dawned, and +received those first impressions from surrounding nature which +are so strongly marked in all his works. The first +impressions of childhood, I knew, were strong and permanent; of +course I made sure of seeing here some images at least of the +wonderful conceptions of this wonderful man. But my +imagination misled me, and I was disappointed; for I saw nothing +in the country thereabouts at all striking, or in any respect +particularly beautiful. It was not at all wild and +romantic; but rather distinguished for an air of neatness and +simplicity.</p> +<p>We arrived at Birmingham about three o’clock in the +afternoon. I had already paid sixteen shillings at +Stratford for my place in the coach from Oxford to +Birmingham. At Oxford they had not asked anything of me, +and indeed you are not obliged in general in England, as you are +in Germany, to pay your passage beforehand.</p> +<p>My companion and myself alighted at the inn where the coach +stopped. We parted with some reluctance, and I was obliged +to promise him that, on my return to London, I would certainly +call on him, for which purpose he gave me his address. His +father was Dr. Wilson, a celebrated author in his particular +style of writing.</p> +<p>I now inquired for the house of Mr. Fothergill, to whom I was +recommended, and I was readily directed to it, but had the +misfortune to learn, at the same time, that this very Mr. +Fothergill had died about eight days before. As, therefore, +under these circumstances, my recommendation to him was likely to +be but of little use, I had the less desire to tarry long at +Birmingham, and so, without staying a minute longer, I +immediately inquired the road to Derby, and left +Birmingham. Of this famous manufacturing town, therefore, I +can give you no account.</p> +<p>The road from Birmingham onwards is not very agreeable, being +in general uncommonly sandy. Yet the same evening I reached +a little place called Sutton, where everything, however, appeared +to be too grand for me to hope to obtain lodgings in it, till +quite at the end of it I came to a small inn with the sign of the +Swan, under which was written Aulton, brickmaker.</p> +<p>This seemed to have something in it that suited me, and +therefore I boldly went into it; and when in I did not +immediately, as heretofore, inquire if I could stay all night +there, but asked for a pint of ale. I own I felt myself +disheartened by their calling me nothing but master, and by their +showing me into the kitchen, where the landlady was sitting at a +table and complaining much of the toothache. The compassion +I expressed for her on this account, as a stranger, seemed soon +to recommend me to her favour, and she herself asked me if I +would not stay the night there? To this I most readily +assented; and thus I was again happy in a lodging for another +night.</p> +<p>The company I here met with consisted of a female +chimney-sweeper and her children, who, on my sitting down in the +kitchen, soon drank to my health, and began a conversation with +me and the landlady.</p> +<p>She related to us her history, which I am not ashamed to own I +thought not uninteresting. She had married early, but had +the hard luck to be soon deprived of her husband, by his being +pressed as a soldier. She neither saw nor heard of him for +many years, so concluded he was dead. Thus destitute, she +lived seven years as a servant in Ireland, without any +one’s knowing that she was married. During this time +her husband, who was a chimney-sweeper, came back to England and +settled at Lichfield, resumed his old trade, and did well in +it. As soon as he was in good circumstances, he everywhere +made inquiry for his wife, and at last found out where she was, +and immediately fetched her from Ireland. There surely is +something pleasing in this constancy of affection in a +chimney-sweeper. She told us, with tears in her eyes, in +what a style of grandeur he had conducted her into Lichfield; and +how, in honour to her, he made a splendid feast on the +occasion. At this same Lichfield, which is only two miles +from Sutton, and through which she said the road lay which I was +to travel to-morrow, she still lived with this same excellent +husband, where they were noted for their industry, where +everybody respected them, and where, though in the lowest sphere, +they are passing through life neither uselessly nor +unhappily.</p> +<p>The landlady, during her absence, told me as in confidence, +that this chimney-sweeper’s husband, as meanly as I might +fancy she now appeared, was worth a thousand pounds, and that +without reckoning in their plate and furniture, that he always +wore his silver watch, and that when he passed through Sutton, +and lodged there, he paid like a nobleman.</p> +<p>She further remarked that the wife was indeed rather +low-lived; but that the husband was one of the best-behaved, +politest, and civilest men in the world. I had myself taken +notice that this same dingy companion of mine had something +singularly coarse and vulgar in her pronunciation. The word +old, for example, she sounded like auld. In other respects, +I had not yet remarked any striking variety or difference from +the pronunciation of Oxford or London.</p> +<p>To-morrow the chimney-sweeper, said she, her husband, would +not be at home, but if I came back by the way of Lichfield, she +would take the liberty to request the honour of a visit, and to +this end she told me her name and the place of her abode.</p> +<p>At night the rest of the family, a son and daughter of the +landlady, came home, and paid all possible attention to their +sick mother. I supped with the family, and they here +behaved to me as if we had already lived many years together.</p> +<p>Happening to mention that I was, if not a scholar, yet a +student, the son told me there was at Sutton a celebrated +grammar-school, where the school-master received two hundred +pounds a year settled salary, besides the income arising from the +scholars.</p> +<p>And this was only in a village. I thought, and not +without some shame and sorrow, of our grammar-schools in Germany, +and the miserable pay of the masters.</p> +<p>When I paid my reckoning the next morning, I observed the +uncommon difference here and at Windsor, Nettlebed, and +Oxford. At Oxford I was obliged to pay for my supper, bed, +and breakfast at least three shillings, and one to the +waiter. I here paid for my supper, bed, and breakfast only +one shilling, and to the daughter, whom I was to consider as +chambermaid, fourpence; for which she very civilly thanked me, +and gave me a written recommendation to an inn at Lichfield, +where I should be well lodged, as the people in Lichfield were, +in general, she said, very proud. This written +recommendation was a masterpiece of orthography, and showed that +in England, as well as elsewhere, there are people who write +entirely from the ear, and as they pronounce. In English, +however, it seems to look particularly odd, but perhaps that may +be the case in all languages that are not native.</p> +<p>I took leave here, as one does of good friends, with a certain +promise that on my return I would certainly call on them +again.</p> +<p>At noon I got to Lichfield, an old-fashioned town with narrow +dirty streets, where for the first time I saw round panes of +glass in the windows. The place to mime wore an unfriendly +appearance; I therefore made no use of my recommendation, but +went straight through, and only bought some bread at a +baker’s, which I took along with me.</p> +<p>At night I reached Burton, where the famous Burton ale is +brewed. By this time I felt myself pretty well tired, and +therefore proposed to stay the night here. But my courage +failed me, and I dropped the resolution immediately on my +entering the town. The houses and everything else seemed to +wear as grand an appearance, almost, as if I had been still in +London. And yet the manners of some of its inhabitants were +so thoroughly rustic and rude, that I saw them actually pointing +at me with their fingers as a foreigner. And now, to +complete my chagrin and mortification, I came to a long street, +where everybody on both sides of the way were at their doors, and +actually made me run the gauntlet through their inquiring +looks. Some even hissed at me as I passed along. All +my arguments to induce me to pluck up my courage, such as the +certainty that I should never see these people again nor they me, +were of no use. Burton became odious and almost +insupportable to me; and the street appeared as long and tired me +as much, as if I had walked a mile. This strongly-marked +contemptuous treatment of a stranger, who was travelling through +their country merely from the respect he bore it, I experienced +nowhere but at Burton.</p> +<p>How happy did I feel when I again found myself out of their +town, although at that moment I did not know where I should find +a lodging for the night, and was, besides, excessively +tired. But I pursued my journey, and still kept in the road +to Derby, along a footpath which I knew to be right. It led +across a very pleasant mead, the hedges of which were separated +by stiles, over which I was often obliged to clamber. When +I had walked some distance without meeting with an inn on the +road, and it had already begun to be dark, I at last sat me down +near a small toll-house, or a turnpike-gate, in order to rest +myself, and also to see whether the man at the turnpike could and +would lodge me.</p> +<p>After I had sat here a considerable time, a farmer came riding +by, and asked me where I wanted to go? I told him I was so +tired that I could go no farther. On this the good-natured +and truly hospitable man, of his own accord and without the least +distrust, offered to take me behind him on his horse and carry me +to a neighbouring inn, where he said I might stay all night.</p> +<p>The horse was a tall one, and I could not easily get up. +The turnpike-man, who appeared to be quite decrepid and infirm, +on this came out. I took it for granted, however, that he +who appeared to have hardly sufficient strength to support +himself could not help me. This poor looking, feeble old +man, however, took hold of me with one arm, and lifted me with a +single jerk upon the horse so quick and so alertly that it quite +astonished me.</p> +<p>And now I trotted on with my charming farmer, who did not ask +me one single impertinent question, but set me down quietly at +the inn, and immediately rode away to his own village, which lay +to the left.</p> +<p>This inn was called the Bear, and not improperly; for the +landlord went about and growled at his people just like a bear, +so that at first I expected no favourable reception. I +endeavoured to gentle him a little by asking for a mug of ale, +and once or twice drinking to him. This succeeded; he soon +became so very civil and conversable, that I began to think him +quite a pleasant fellow. This device I had learnt of the +“Vicar of Wakefield,” who always made his hosts +affable by inviting them to drink with him. It was an +expedient that suited me also in another point of view, as the +strong ale of England did not at all agree with me.</p> +<p>This innkeeper called me sir; and he made his people lay a +separate table for himself and me; for he said he could see +plainly I was a gentleman.</p> +<p>In our chat, we talked much of George the Second, who appeared +to be his favourite king, much more so than George the +Third. And among others things, we talked of the battle at +Dettingen, of which he knew many particulars. I was obliged +also in my turn to tell him stories of our great King of Prussia, +and his numerous armies, and also what sheep sold for in +Prussia. After we had been thus talking some time, chiefly +on political matters, he all at once asked me if I could blow the +French horn? This he supposed I could do, only because I +came from Germany; for he said he remembered, when he was a boy, +a German had once stopped at the inn with his parents who blew +the French horn extremely well. He therefore fancied this +was a talent peculiar to the Germans.</p> +<p>I removed this error, and we resumed our political topics, +while his children and servants at some distance listened with +great respect to our conversation.</p> +<p>Thus I again spent a very agreeable evening; and when I had +breakfasted in the morning, my bill was not more than it had been +at Sutton. I at length reached the common before Derby on +Friday morning. The air was mild, and I seemed to feel +myself uncommonly cheerful and happy. About noon the +romantic part of the country began to open upon me. I came +to a lofty eminence, where all at once I saw a boundless prospect +of hills before me, behind which fresh hills seemed always to +arise, and to be infinite.</p> +<p>The ground now seemed undulatory, and to rise and fall like +waves; when at the summit of the rise I seemed to be first raised +aloft, and had an extensive view all around me, and the next +moment, when I went down the hill, I lost it.</p> +<p>In the afternoon I saw Derby in the vale before me, and I was +now an hundred and twenty-six miles from London. Derby is +but a small, and not very considerable town. It was +market-day when I got there, and I was obliged to pass through a +crowd of people: but there was here no such odious curiosity, no +offensive staring, as at Burton. At this place too I took +notice that I began to be always civilly bowed to by the children +of the villages through which I passed.</p> +<p>From Derby to the baths of Matlock, which is one of the most +romantic situations, it was still fifteen miles. On my way +thither, I came to a long and extensive village, which I believe +was called Duffield. They here at least did not show me +into the kitchen, but into the parlour; and I dined on cold +victuals.</p> +<p>The prints and pictures which I have generally seen at these +inns are, I think, almost always prints of the royal family, +oftentimes in a group, where the king, as the father of the +family, assembles his children around him; or else I have found a +map of London, and not seldom the portrait of the King of +Prussia; I have met with it several times. You also +sometimes see some of the droll prints of Hogarth. The heat +being now very great, I several times in this village heard the +commiserating exclamation of “Good God Almighty!” by +which the people expressed their pity for me, as being a poor +foot passenger.</p> +<p>At night I again stopped at an inn on the road, about five +miles from Matlock. I could easily have reached Matlock, +but I wished rather to reserve the first view of the country till +the next day than to get there when it was dark.</p> +<p>But I was not equally fortunate in this inn, as in the two +former. The kitchen was full of farmers, among whom I could +not distinguish the landlord, whose health I should otherwise +immediately have drank. It is true I heard a country girl +who was also in the kitchen, as often as she drank say, +“Your health, gentlemen all!” But I do not know +how it was, I forgot to drink any one’s health, which I +afterwards found was taken much amiss. The landlord drank +twice to my health sneeringly, as if to reprimand me for my +incivility; and then began to join the rest in ridiculing me, who +almost pointed at me with their fingers. I was thus obliged +for a time to serve the farmers as a laughing-stock, till at +length one of them compassionately said, “Nay, nay, we must +do him no harm, for he is a stranger.” The landlord, +I suppose, to excuse himself, as if he thought he had perhaps +before gone too far said, “Ay, God forbid we should hurt +any stranger,” and ceased his ridicule; but when I was +going to drink his health, he slighted and refused my attention, +and told me, with a sneer, all I had to do was to seat myself in +the chimney-corner, and not trouble myself about the rest of the +world. The landlady seemed to pity me, and so she led me +into another room where I could be alone, saying, “What +wicked people!”</p> +<p>I left this unfriendly roof early the next morning, and now +quickly proceeded to Matlock.</p> +<p>The extent of my journey I had now resolved should be the +great cavern near Castleton, in the high Peak of +Derbyshire. It was about twenty miles beyond Matlock.</p> +<p>The country here had quite a different appearance from that at +Windsor and Richmond. Instead of green meadows and pleasant +hills, I now saw barren mountains and lofty rocks; instead of +fine living hedges, the fields and pasture lands here were fenced +with a wall of grey stone; and of this very same stone, which is +here everywhere to be found in plenty, all the houses are built +in a very uniform and patriarchal manner, inasmuch as the rough +stones are almost without any preparation placed one upon +another, and compose four walls, so that in case of necessity, a +man might here without much trouble build himself a house. +At Derby the houses seem to be built of the same stone.</p> +<p>The situation of Matlock itself surpassed every idea I had +formed of it. On the right were some elegant houses for the +bathing company, and lesser cottages suspended like birds’ +nests in a high rock; to the left, deep in the bottom, there was +a fine bold river, which was almost hid from the eye by a +majestic arch formed by high trees, which hung over it. A +prodigious stone wall extended itself above a mile along its +border, and all along there is a singularly romantic and +beautiful secret walk, sheltered and adorned by many beautiful +shrubs.</p> +<p>The steep rock was covered at the top with green bushes, and +now and then a sheep, or a cow, separated from the grazing flock, +came to the edge of the precipice, and peeped over it.</p> +<p>I have got, in Milton’s “Paradise Lost,” +which I am reading thoroughly through, just to the part where he +describes Paradise, when I arrived here and the following +passage, which I read at the brink of the river, had a most +striking and pleasing effect on me. The landscape here +described was as exactly similar to that I saw before me, as if +the poet had taken it from hence</p> +<blockquote><p>“—delicious Paradise,<br /> +Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green,<br /> +As with a rural mound, the champion head<br /> +Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides<br /> +With thicket overgrown, grotesque and wild,<br /> +Access denied.”—<i>Book</i> IV. v. 132.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>From Matlock Baths you go over Matlock Bridge, to the little +town of Matlock itself, which, in reality, scarcely deserves the +name of a village, as it consists of but a few and miserable +houses. There is here, on account of the baths, a number of +horses and carriages, and a great thoroughfare. From hence +I came through some villages to a small town of the name of +Bakewell. The whole country in this part is hilly and +romantic. Often my way led me, by small passes, over +astonishing eminences, where, in the deep below me, I saw a few +huts or cottages lying. The fencing of the fields with grey +stone gave the whole a wild and not very promising +appearance. The hills were in general not wooded, but naked +and barren; and you saw the flocks at a distance grazing on their +summit.</p> +<p>As I was coming through one of the villages, I heard a great +farmer’s boy eagerly ask another if he did not think I was +a Frenchman. It seemed as if he had been waiting some time +to see the wonder; for, he spoke as though his wish was now +accomplished.</p> +<p>When I was past Bakewell, a place far inferior to Derby, I +came by the side of a broad river, to a small eminence, where a +fine cultivated field lay before me. This field, all at +once, made an indescribable and very pleasing impression on me, +which at first, I could not account for; till I recollected +having seen, in my childhood, near the village where I was +educated, a situation strikingly similar to that now before me +here in England.</p> +<p>This field, as if it had been in Germany, was not enclosed +with hedges, but every spot in it was uninterruptedly diversified +with all kinds of crops and growths of different green and +yellowish colours, which gave the whole a most pleasing effect; +but besides this large field, the general view of the country, +and a thousand other little circumstances which I cannot now +particularly enumerate, served to bring back to my recollection +the years of my youth.</p> +<p>Here I rested myself a while, and when I was going on again I +thought of the place of my residence, on all my acquaintances, +and not a little on you, my dearest friend, and imagined what you +would think and say, if you were to see your friend thus +wandering here all alone, totally unknown, and in a foreign +land. And at that moment I first seriously felt the idea of +distance, and the thought that I was now in England, so very far +from all I loved, or who loved me, produced in me such sensations +as I have not often felt.</p> +<p>It was perhaps the same with you, my dearest friend, when on +our journey to Hamburg we drove from Perlsbeg, to your +birthplace, the village of Boberow; where, among the farmers, you +again found your own playmates, one of whom was now become the +bailiff of the place. On your asking them whether they knew +you, one and all of them answered so heartily, “O, yes, +yes—why, your are Master Frederic.” The +pedantic school-master, you will remember, was not so +frank. He expressed himself in the stiff town phrase of, +“He had not the honour of knowing you, as during your +residence in that village, when a child, he had not been <i>in +loco</i>.”</p> +<p>I now came through a little place of the name of Ashford, and +wished to reach the small village of Wardlow, which was only +three miles distant, when two men came after me, at a distance, +whom I had already seen at Matlock, who called to me to wait for +them. These were the only foot passengers since Mr. Maud, +who had offered to walk with me.</p> +<p>The one was a saddler, and wore a short brown jacket and an +apron, with a round hat. The other was very decently +dressed, but a very silent man, whereas the saddler was quite +talkative.</p> +<p>I listened with astonishment when I heard him begin to speak +of Homer, of Horace, and of Virgil; and still more when he quoted +several passages, by memory, from each of these authors, +pronouncing the words, and laying his emphasis, with as much +propriety as I could possibly have expected, had he been educated +at Cambridge or at Oxford. He advised me not to go to +Wardlow, where I should find bad accommodations, but rather a few +miles to Tideswell, where he lived. This name is, by a +singular abbreviation, pronounced Tidsel, the same as Birmingham +is called by the common people Brummidgeham.</p> +<p>We halted at a small ale-house on the road-side, where the +saddler stopped to drink and talk, and from whence he was in no +haste to depart. He had the generosity and honour, however, +to pay my share of the reckoning, because, as he said, he had +brought me hither.</p> +<p>At no great distance from the house we came to a rising +ground, where my philosophical saddler made me observe a +prospect, which was perhaps the only one of the kind in +England. Below us was a hollow, not unlike a huge kettle, +hollowed out of the surrounding mass of earth; and at the bottom +of it a little valley, where the green meadow was divided by a +small rivulet, that ran in serpentine windings, its banks graced +with the most inviting walks; behind a small winding, there is +just seen a house where one of the most distinguished inhabitants +of this happy vale, a great philosopher, lives retired, +dedicating almost all his time to his favourite studies. He +has transplanted a number of foreign plants into his +grounds. My guide fell into almost a poetic rapture as he +pointed out to me the beauties of this vale, while our third +companion, who grew tired, became impatient at our +tediousness.</p> +<p>We were now led by a steep road to the vale, through which we +passed, and then ascended again among the hills on the other +side.</p> +<p>Not far from Tideswell our third companion left us, as he +lived in a neighbouring place. As we now at length saw +Tideswell lying before us in the vale, the saddler began to give +me an account of his family, adding, by way of episode, that he +never quarrelled with his wife, nor had ever once threatened her +with his fist, much less, ever lifted it against her. For +his own sake, he said, he never called her names, nor gave her +the lie. I must here observe, that it is the greatest +offence you can give any one in England to say to him, <i>you +lie</i>.</p> +<p>To be called a <i>liar</i> is a still greater affront, and you +<i>are a damned liar</i>, is the very acme of vulgar abuse.</p> +<p>Just as in Germany, no one will bear the name of a +<i>scoundrel</i>, or <i>knave</i>, or as in all quarrels, the +bestowing such epithets on our adversary is the signal for +fighting, so the term of a <i>liar</i> in England is the most +offensive, and is always resented by blows. A man would +never forgive himself, nor be forgiven, who could bear to be +called a <i>liar</i>.</p> +<p>Our Jackey in London once looked at me with astonishment, on +my happening to say to him in a joke, you <i>are a +liar</i>. I assure you I had much to do before I could +pacify him.</p> +<p>If one may form a judgment of the character of the whole +nation, from such little circumstances as this, I must say this +rooted hatred of the word liar appears to me to be no bad trait +in the English.</p> +<p>But to return to my travelling companion, who further told me +that he was obliged to earn his livelihood, at some distance from +home, and that he was now returning for the first time, for these +two months, to his family.</p> +<p>He showed me a row of trees near the town which he said his +father had planted, and which, therefore, he never could look at +but with emotion, though he passed them often as he went +backwards and forwards on his little journeys to and from his +birthplace. His father, he added, had once been a rich man, +but had expended all his fortune to support one son. +Unfortunately for himself as well as his family, his father had +gone to America and left the rest of his children poor, +notwithstanding which, his memory was still dear to him, and he +was always affected by the sight of these trees.</p> +<p>Tideswell consists of two rows of low houses, built of rough +grey stone. My guide, immediately on our entrance into the +place, bade me take notice of the church, which was very +handsome, and notwithstanding its age, had still some pretensions +to be considered as an edifice built in the modern taste.</p> +<p>He now asked me whether he should show me to a great inn or to +a cheap one, and as I preferred the latter, he went with me +himself to a small public-house, and very particularly +recommended me to their care as his fellow-traveller, and a +clever man not without learning.</p> +<p>The people here also endeavoured to accommodate me most +magnificently, and for this purpose gave me some toasted cheese, +which was Cheshire cheese roasted and half melted at the +fire. This, in England it seems, is reckoned good eating, +but, unfortunately for me, I could not touch a bit of it; I +therefore invited my landlord to partake of it, and he indeed +seemed to feast on it. As I neither drank brandy nor ale, +he told me I lived far too sparingly for a foot traveller; he +wondered how I had strength to walk so well and so far.</p> +<p>I avail myself of this opportunity to observe that the English +innkeepers are in general great ale drinkers, and for this reason +most of them are gross and corpulent; in particular they are +plump and rosy in their faces. I once heard it said of one +of them, that the extravasated claret in his phiz might well +remind one, as Falstaff says of Bardolph, of hell-fire.</p> +<p>The next morning my landlady did me the honour to drink coffee +with me, but helped me very sparingly to milk and sugar. It +was Sunday, and I went with my landlord to a barber, on whose +shop was written “Shaving for a penny.” There +were a great many inhabitants assembled there, who took me for a +gentleman, on account, I suppose, of my hat, which I had bought +in London for a guinea, and which they all admired. I +considered this as a proof that pomp and finery had not yet +become general thus far from London.</p> +<p>You frequently find in England, at many of the houses of the +common people, printed papers, with sundry apt and good moral +maxims and rules fastened against the room door, just as we find +them in Germany. On such wretched paper some of the most +delightful and the finest sentiments may be read, such as would +do honour to any writer of any country.</p> +<p>For instance, I read among other things this golden rule on +such an ordinary printed paper stuck against a room door, +“Make no comparisons;” and if you consider how many +quarrels, and how much mischief arise in the world from odious +comparisons of the merits of one with the merits of another, the +most delightful lessons of morality are contained in the few +words of the above-mentioned rule.</p> +<p>A man to whom I gave sixpence conducted me out of the town to +the road leading to Castleton, which was close to a wall of +stones confusedly heaped one upon another, as I have before +described. The whole country was hilly and rough, and the +ground covered with brown heath. Here and there some sheep +were feeding.</p> +<p>I made a little digression to a hill to the left, where I had +a prospect awfully beautiful, composed almost entirely of naked +rocks, far and near, among which, those that were entirely +covered with black heath made a most tremendous appearance.</p> +<p>I was now a hundred and seventy miles from London, when I +ascended one of the highest hills, and all at once perceived a +beautiful vale below me, which was traversed by rivers and brooks +and enclosed on all sides by hills. In this vale lay +Castleton, a small town with low houses, which takes its name +from an old castle, whose ruins are still to be seen here.</p> +<p>A narrow path, which wound itself down the side of the rock, +led me through the vale into the street of Castleton, where I +soon found an inn, and also soon dined. After dinner I made +the best of my way to the cavern.</p> +<p>A little rivulet, which runs through the middle of the town, +led me to its entrance.</p> +<p>I stood here a few moments, full of wonder and astonishment at +the amazing height of the steep rock before me, covered on each +side with ivy and other shrubs. At its summit are the +decayed wall and towers of an ancient castle which formerly stood +on this rock, and at its foot the monstrous aperture or mouth to +the entrance of the cavern, where it is pitch dark when one looks +down even at mid-day.</p> +<p>As I was standing here full of admiration, I perceived, at the +entrance of the cavern, a man of a rude and rough appearance, who +asked me if I wished to see the Peak, and the echo strongly +reverberated his coarse voice.</p> +<p>Answering as I did in the affirmative, he next further asked +me if I should want to be carried to the other side of the +stream, telling me at the same time what the sum would be which I +must pay for it.</p> +<p>This man had, along with his black stringy hair and his dirty +and tattered clothes, such a singularly wild and infernal look, +that he actually struck me as a real Charon. His voice, and +the questions he asked me, were not of a kind to remove this +notion, so that, far from its requiring any effort of +imagination, I found it not easy to avoid believing that, at +length, I had actually reached Avernus, was about to cross +Acheron, and to be ferried by Charon.</p> +<p>I had no sooner agreed to his demand, than he told me all I +had to do was boldly to follow him, and thus we entered the +cavern.</p> +<p>To the left, in the entrance of the cavern, lay the trunk of a +tree that had been cut down, on which several of the boys of the +town were playing.</p> +<p>Our way seemed to be altogether on a descent, though not +steep, so that the light which came in at the mouth of the cavern +near the entrance gradually forsook us, and when we had gone +forward a few steps farther, I was astonished by a sight which, +of all other, I here the least expected. I perceived to the +right, in the hollow of the cavern, a whole subterranean village, +where the inhabitants, on account of its being Sunday, were +resting from their work, and with happy and cheerful looks were +sitting at the doors of their huts along with their children.</p> +<p>We had scarcely passed these small subterranean houses when I +perceived a number of large wheels, on which on week days these +human moles, the inhabitants of the cavern, make ropes.</p> +<p>I fancied I here saw the wheel of Ixion, and the incessant +labour of the Danaides.</p> +<p>The opening through which the light came seemed, as we +descended, every moment to become less and less, and the darkness +at every step to increase, till at length only a few rays +appeared, as if darting through a crevice, and just tinging the +small clouds of smoke which, at dusk, raised themselves to the +mouth of the cavern.</p> +<p>This gradual growth, or increase of darkness, awakens in a +contemplative mind a soft melancholy. As you go down the +gentle descent of the cavern, you can hardly help fancying the +moment is come when, without pain or grief, the thread of life is +about to be snapped; and that you are now going thus quietly to +that land of peace where trouble is no more.</p> +<p>At length the great cavern in the rock closed itself, in the +same manner as heaven and earth seem to join each other, when we +came to a little door, where an old woman came out of one of the +huts, and brought two candles, of which we each took one.</p> +<p>My guide now opened the door, which completely shut out the +faint glimmering of light, which, till then, it was still +possible to perceive, and led us to the inmost centre of this +dreary temple of old Chaos and Night, as if, till now, we had +only been traversing the outer courts. The rock was here so +low, that we were obliged to stoop very much for some few steps +in order to get through; but how great was my astonishment, when +we had passed this narrow passage and again stood upright, at +once to perceive, as well as the feeble light of our candles +would permit, the amazing length, breadth, and height of the +cavern; compared to which the monstrous opening through which we +had already passed was nothing!</p> +<p>After we had wandered here more than an hour, as beneath a +dark and dusky sky, on a level, sandy soil, the rock gradually +lowered itself, and we suddenly found ourselves on the edge of a +broad river, which, from the glimmering of our candles amid the +total darkness, suggested sundry interesting reflections. +To the side of this river a small boat was moored, with some +straw in its bottom. Into this boat my guide desired me to +step, and lay myself down in it quite flat; because, as he said, +towards the middle of the river, the rock would almost touch the +water.</p> +<p>When I had laid myself down as directed, he himself jumped +into the water, and drew the boat after him.</p> +<p>All around us was one still, solemn, and deadly silence; and +as the boat advanced, the rock seemed to stoop, and come nearer +and nearer to us, till at length it nearly touched my face; and +as I lay, I could hardly hold the candle upright. I seemed +to myself to be in a coffin rather than in a boat, as I had no +room to stir hand or foot till we had passed this frightful +strait, and the rock rose again on the other side, where my guide +once more handed me ashore.</p> +<p>The cavern was now become, all at once, broad and high: and +then suddenly it was again low and narrow.</p> +<p>I observed on both sides as we passed along a prodigious +number of great and small petrified plants and animals, which, +however, we could not examine, unless we had been disposed to +spend some days in the cavern.</p> +<p>And thus we arrived at the opposite side, at the second river +or stream, which, however, was not so broad as the first, as one +may see across it to the other side; across this stream my guide +carried me on his shoulders, because there was here no boat to +carry us over.</p> +<p>From thence we only went a few steps farther, when we came to +a very small piece of water which extended itself lengthways, and +led us to the end of the cavern.</p> +<p>The path along the edge of this water was wet and slippery, +and sometimes so very narrow, that one can hardly set one foot +before the other.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding, I wandered with pleasure on this subterranean +shore, and was regaling myself with the interesting contemplation +of all these various wonderful objects, in this land of darkness +and shadow of death, when, all at once, something like music at a +distance sounded in mine ears.</p> +<p>I instantly stopped, full of astonishment, and eagerly asked +my guide what this might mean? He answered, “Only +have patience, and you shall soon see.”</p> +<p>But as we advanced, the sounds of harmony seemed to die away; +the noise became weaker and weaker; and at length it seemed to +sink into a gentle hissing or hum, like distant drops of falling +rain.</p> +<p>And how great was my amazement when, ere long, I actually saw +and felt a violent shower of rain falling from the rock, as from +a thick cloud, whose drops, which now fell on our candles, had +caused that same melancholy sound which I had heard at a +distance.</p> +<p>This was what is here called a mizzling rain, which fell from +the ceiling or roof of the cavern, through the veins of the +rock.</p> +<p>We did not dare to approach too near with our candles, as they +might easily have been extinguished by the falling drops; and so +we perhaps have been forced to seek our way back in vain.</p> +<p>We continued our march therefore along the side of the water, +and often saw on the sides large apertures in the rock, which +seemed to be new or subordinate caverns, all which we passed +without looking into. At length my guide prepared me for +one of the finest sights we had yet seen, which we should now +soon behold.</p> +<p>And we had hardly gone on a few paces, when we entered what +might easily have been taken for a majestic temple, with lofty +arches, supported by beautiful pillars, formed by the plastic +hand of some ingenious artist.</p> +<p>This subterranean temple, in the structure of which no human +hand had borne a part, appeared to me at that moment to surpass +all the most stupendous buildings in the world, in point of +regularity, magnificence, and beauty.</p> +<p>Full of admiration and reverence, here, even in the inmost +recesses of nature, I saw the majesty of the Creator displayed; +and before I quitted this temple, here, in this solemn silence +and holy gloom, I thought it would be a becoming act of true +religion to adore, as I cordially did, the God of nature.</p> +<p>We now drew near the end of our journey. Our faithful +companion, the water, guided us through the remainder of the +cavern, where the rock is arched for the last time, and then +sinks till it touches the water, which here forms a semicircle, +and thus the cavern closes, so that no mortal can go one step +farther.</p> +<p>My guide here again jumped into the water, swam a little way +under the rock, and then came back quite wet, to show me that it +was impossible to go any further, unless this rock could be blown +up with powder, and a second cavern opened. I now thought +all we had to do was to return the nearest way; but there were +new difficulties still to encounter, and new scenes to behold +still more beautiful than any I had yet seen.</p> +<p>My guide now turned and went back towards the left, where I +followed him through a large opening in the rock.</p> +<p>And here he first asked me if I could determine to creep a +considerable distance through the rock, where it nearly touched +the ground. Having consented to do so, he told me I had +only to follow him, warning me at the same time to take great +care of my candle.</p> +<p>Thus we crept on our hands and feet, on the wet and muddy +ground, through the opening in the rock, which was often scarcely +large enough for us to get through with our bodies.</p> +<p>When at length we had got through this troublesome passage, I +saw in the cavern a steep hill, which was so high that it seemed +to lose itself as in a cloud, in the summit of the rock.</p> +<p>This hill was so wet and slippery, that as soon as I attempted +to ascend, I fell down. My guide, however, took hold of my +hand and told me I had only resolutely to follow him.</p> +<p>We now ascended such an amazing height, and there were such +precipices on each side, that it makes me giddy even now when I +think of it.</p> +<p>When we at length had gained the summit, where the hill seemed +to lose itself in the rock, my guide placed me where I could +stand firm, and told me to stay there quietly. In the +meantime he himself went down the hill with his candle, and left +me alone.</p> +<p>I lost sight of him for some moments, but at length I +perceived, not him, indeed, but his candle, quite in the bottom, +from whence it seemed to shine like a bright and twinkling +star.</p> +<p>After I had enjoyed this indescribably beautiful sight for +some time, my guide came back, and carried me safely down the +hill again on his shoulders. And as I now stood below, he +went up and let his candle shine again through an opening of the +rock, while I covered mine with my hand; and it was now as if on +a dark night a bright star shone down upon me, a sight which, in +point of beauty, far surpassed all that I had ever seen.</p> +<p>Our journey was now ended, and we returned, not without +trouble and difficulty, through the narrow passage. We +again entered the temple we had a short time before left; again +heard the pattering of the rain, which sounded as rain when we +were near it, but which at a distance seemed a sonorous, dull, +and melancholy hum; and now again we returned across the quiet +streams through the capacious entrance of the cavern to the +little door, where we had before taken our leave of daylight, +which, after so long a darkness, we now again hailed with +joy.</p> +<p>Before my guide opened the door, he told me I should now have +a view of a sight that would surpass all the foregoing. I +found that he was in the right, for when he had only half opened +the door, it really seemed as if I was looking into Elysium.</p> +<p>The day seemed to be gradually breaking, and night and +darkness to have vanished. At a distance you again just saw +the smoke of the cottages, and then the cottages themselves; and +as we ascended we saw the boys still playing around the hewn +trunk, till at length the reddish purple stripes in the sky +faintly appeared through the mouth of the hole; yet, just as we +came out, the sun was setting in the west.</p> +<p>Thus had I spent nearly the whole afternoon till it was quite +evening in the cavern; and when I looked at myself, I was, as to +my dress, not much unlike my guide; my shoes scarcely hung to my +feet, they were so soft and so torn by walking so long on the +damp sand, and the hard pointed stones.</p> +<p>I paid no more than half-a-crown for seeing all that I had +seen, with a trifle to my guide; for it seems he does not get the +half-crown, but is obliged to account for it to his master, who +lives very comfortably on the revenue he derives from this +cavern, and is able to keep a man to show it to strangers.</p> +<p>When I came home I sent for a shoemaker. There was one +who lived just opposite; and he immediately came to examine my +shoes. He told me he could not sufficiently wonder at the +badness of the work, for they were shoes I had brought from +Germany. Notwithstanding this, he undertook, as he had no +new ones ready, to mend them for me as well as he could. +This led me to make a very agreeable acquaintance with this +shoemaker; for when I expressed to him my admiration of the +cavern, it pleased him greatly that in so insignificant a place +as Castleton there should be anything which could inspire people +with astonishment, who came from such distant countries; and +thereupon offered to take a walk with me, to show me, at no great +distance, the famous mountain called Mam Tor, which is reckoned +among the things of most note in Derbyshire.</p> +<p>This mountain is covered with verdure on its summit and sides; +but at the end it is a steep precipice. The middle part +does not, like other mountains, consist of rock, but of a loose +earth, which gives way, and either rolls from the top of the +precipice in little pieces, or tears itself loose in large +masses, and falls with a thundering crash, thus forming a hill on +its side which is continually increasing.</p> +<p>From these circumstances probably is derived the name of Mam +Tor, which literally signifies Mother Hill; for Tor is either an +abbreviation of, or the old word for, Tower, and means not only a +lofty building, but any eminence. Mam is a familiar term, +that obtains in all languages, for Mother; and this mountain, +like a mother, produces several other small hills.</p> +<p>The inhabitants here have a superstitious notion that this +mountain, notwithstanding its daily loss, never decreases, but +always keeps its own, and remains the same.</p> +<p>My companion told me a shocking history of an inhabitant of +Castleton who laid a wager that he would ascend this steep +precipice.</p> +<p>As the lower part is not quite so steep, but rather slanting +upwards, he could get good hold in this soft loose earth, and +clambered up, without looking round. At length he had +gained more than half the ascent, and was just at the part where +it projects and overlooks its basis. From this astonishing +height the unfortunate man cast down his eyes, whilst the +threatening point of the rock hung over him, with tottering +masses of earth.</p> +<p>He trembled all over, and was just going to relinquish his +hold, not daring to move backwards or forwards; in this manner he +hung for some time between heaven and earth, surrounded by +despair. However, his sinews would bear it no longer, and +therefore, in an effort of despair, he once more collected all +his strength and got hold of first one loose stone, and then +another, all of which would have failed him had he not +immediately caught hold of another. By these means, +however, at length, to his own, as well as to the astonishment of +all the spectators, he avoided almost instant and certain death, +safely gained the summit of the hill, and won his wager.</p> +<p>I trembled as I heard this relation, seeing the mountain and +the precipice in question so near to me, I could not help +figuring to myself the man clambering up it.</p> +<p>Not far from hence is Elden Hole, a cavity or pit, or hole in +the earth, of such a monstrous depth, that if you throw in a +pebble stone, and lay your ear to the edge of the hole, you hear +it falling for a long time.</p> +<p>As soon as it comes to the bottom it emits a sound as if some +one were uttering a loud sigh. The first noise it makes on +its being first parted with affects the ear like a subterranean +thunder. This rumbling or thundering noise continues for +some time, and then decreases as the stone falls against first +one hard rock and then another at a greater and a greater depth, +and at length, when it has for some time been falling, the noise +stops with a kind of whizzing or a hissing murmur. The +people have also a world of superstitious stories relating to +this place, one of which is that some person once threw into it a +goose, which appeared again at two miles’ distance in the +great cavern I have already mentioned, quite stripped of its +feathers. But I will not stuff my letters with many of +these fabulous histories.</p> +<p>They reckon that they have in Derbyshire seven wonders of +nature, of which this Elden Hole, the hill of Mam Tor, and the +great cavern I have been at are the principal.</p> +<p>The remaining four wonders are Pool’s Hole, which has +some resemblance to this that I have seen, as I am told, for I +did not see it; next St. Anne’s Well, where there are two +springs which rise close to each other, the one of which is +boiling hot, the other as cold as ice; the next is Tide’s +Well, not far from the town of that name through which I +passed. It is a spring or well, which in general flows or +runs underground imperceptibly, and then all at once rushes forth +with a mighty rumbling or subterranean noise, which is said to +have something musical in it, and overflows its banks; lastly +Chatsworth, a palace or seat belonging to the Dukes of +Devonshire, at the foot of a mountain whose summit is covered +with eternal snow, and therefore always gives one the idea of +winter, at the same time that the most delightful spring blooms +at its foot. I can give you no further description of these +latter wonders, as I only know them by the account given me by +others. They were the subjects with which my guide, the +shoemaker, entertained me during our walk.</p> +<p>While this man was showing me everything within his knowledge +that he thought most interesting, he often expressed his +admiration on thinking how much of the world I had already seen; +and the idea excited in him so lively a desire to travel, that I +had much to do to reason him out of it. He could not help +talking of it the whole evening, and again and again protested +that, had he not got a wife and child, he would set off in the +morning at daybreak along with me; for here in Castleton there is +but little to be earned by the hardest labour or even +genius. Provisions are not cheap, and in short, there is no +scope for exertion. This honest man was not yet thirty.</p> +<p>As we returned, he wished yet to show me the lead mines, but +it was too late. Yet, late as it was, he mended my shoes +the same evening, and I must do him the justice to add in a very +masterly manner.</p> +<p>But I am sorry to tell you I have brought a cough from the +cavern that does not at all please me; indeed, it occasions me no +little pain, which makes me suppose that one must needs breathe a +very unwholesome damp air in this cavern. But then, were +that the case, I do not comprehend how my friend Charon should +have held it out so long and so well as he has.</p> +<p>This morning I was up very early in order to view the ruins, +and to climb a high hill alongside of them. The ruins are +directly over the mouth of the hole on the hill, which extends +itself some distance over the cavern beyond the ruins, and always +widens, though here in front it is so narrow that the building +takes up the whole.</p> +<p>From the ruins all around there is nothing but steep rock, so +that there is no access to it but from the town, where a crooked +path from the foot of the hill is hewn in the rock, but is also +prodigiously steep.</p> +<p>The spot on which the ruins stand is now all overgrown with +nettles and thistles. Formerly, it is said, there was a +bridge from this mountain to the opposite one, of which one may +yet discover some traces, as in the vale which divides the two +rocks we still find the remains of some of the arches on which +the bridge rested. This vale, which lies at the back of the +ruins and probably over the cavern, is called the Cave’s +Way, and is one of the greatest thoroughfares to the town. +In the part at which, at some distance, it begins to descend +between these two mountains, its descent is so gentle that one is +not at all tired in going down it; but if you should happen to +miss the way between the two rocks and continue on the heights, +you are in great danger of falling from the rock, which every +moment becomes steeper and steeper.</p> +<p>The mountain on which the ruins stand is everywhere +rocky. The one on the left of it, which is separated by the +vale, is perfectly verdant and fertile, and on its summit the +pasture hands are divided by stones, piled up in the form of a +wall. This green mountain is at least three times as high +as that on which the ruins stand.</p> +<p>I began to clamber up the green mountain, which is also pretty +steep; and when I had got more than half way up without having +once looked back, I was nearly in the same situation as the +adventurer who clambered up Mam Tor Hill, for when I looked +round, I found my eye had not been trained to view, unmoved, so +prodigious a height. Castleton with the surrounding country +lay below me like a map, the roofs of the houses seemed almost +close to the ground, and the mountain with the ruins itself +seemed to be lying at my feet.</p> +<p>I grew giddy at the prospect, and it required all my reason to +convince me that I was in no danger, and that, at all events, I +could only scramble down the green turf in the same manner as I +had got up. At length I seemed to grow accustomed to this +view till it really gave me pleasure, and I now climbed quite to +the summit and walked over the meadows, and at length reached the +way which gradually descends between the two mountains.</p> +<p>At the top of the green mountain I met with some neat country +girls, who were milking their cows, and coming this same way with +their milk-pails on their heads.</p> +<p>This little rural party formed a beautiful group when some of +them with their milk-pails took shelter, as it began to rain, +under a part of the rock, beneath which they sat down on natural +stone benches, and there, with pastoral innocence and glee, +talked and laughed till the shower was over.</p> +<p>My way led me into the town, from whence I now write, and +which I intend leaving in order to begin my journey back to +London, but I think I shall not now pursue quite the same +road.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Northampton</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> I took my leave of the honest +shoemaker in Castleton, who would have rejoiced to have +accompanied me, I resolved to return, not by Tideswell, but by +Wardlow, which is nearer.</p> +<p>I there found but one single inn, and in it only a landlady, +who told me that her husband was at work in the lead mines, and +that the cavern at Castleton, and all that I had yet seen, was +nothing to be compared to these lead mines. Her husband, +she said, would be happy to show them to me.</p> +<p>When I came to offer to pay her for my dinner she made some +difficulty about it, because, as I had neither drank ale or +brandy, by the selling of which she chiefly made her livelihood, +she said she could not well make out my bill. On this I +called for a mug of ale (which I did not drink) in order to +enable me the better to settle her reckoning.</p> +<p>At this same time I saw my innkeeper of Tideswell, who, +however, had not, like me, come on foot, but prancing proudly on +horseback.</p> +<p>As I proceeded, and saw the hills rise before me, which were +still fresh in my memory, having so recently become acquainted +with them in my journey thither, I was just reading the passage +in Milton relative to the creation, in which the Angel describes +to Adam how the water subsided, and</p> +<blockquote><p>“Immediately the mountains huge appear<br /> +Emergent, and their broad bare backs upheave<br /> +Into the clouds, their tops ascend the sky.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Book VII.</i>, 1. 285.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It seemed to me, while reading this passage, as if everything +around me were in the act of creating, and the mountains +themselves appeared to emerge or rise, so animated was the +scene.</p> +<p>I had felt something not very unlike this on my journey +hither, as I was sitting opposite to a hill, whose top was +covered with trees, and was reading in Milton the sublime +description of the combat of the angels, where the fallen angels +are made, with but little regard to chronology, to attack their +antagonists with artillery and cannon, as if it had been a battle +on earth of the present age. The better angels, however, +defend themselves against their antagonists by each seizing on +some hill by the tufts on its summit, tearing them up by the +root, and thus bearing them in their hands to fling them at their +enemy:</p> +<blockquote><p>“—they ran, they flew,<br /> +From their foundation loos’ning to and fro,<br /> +They pluck’d the seated hills with all their load,<br /> +Rocks, waters, woods, and by the shaggy tops<br /> +Uplifting bore them in their hands—.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">Book <i>VI.</i>, 1. 642.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>I seemed to fancy to myself that I actually saw an angel there +standing and plucking up a hill before me and shaking it in the +air.</p> +<p>When I came to the last village before I got to Matlock, as it +was now evening and dark, I determined to spend the night there, +and inquired for an inn, which, I was told, was at the end of the +village; and so on I walked, and kept walking till near midnight +before I found this same inn. The place seemed to have no +end. On my journey to Castleton I must either not have +passed through this village or not have noticed its length. +Much tired, and not a little indisposed, I at length arrived at +the inn, where I sat myself down by the fire in the kitchen, and +asked for something to eat. As they told me I could not +have a bed here, I replied I absolutely would not be driven away, +for that if nothing better could be had I would sit all night by +the fire. This I actually prepared to do, and laid my head +on the table in order to sleep.</p> +<p>When the people in the kitchen thought that I was asleep, I +heard them taking about me, and guessing who or what I might +be. One woman alone seemed to take my part, and said, +“I daresay he is a well-bred gentleman;” another +scouted that notion, merely because, as she said, “I had +come on foot;” and “depend on it,” said she, +“he is some poor travelling creature!” My ears +yet ring with the contemptuous tone with which she uttered, +“poor travelling creature!” It seems to express +all the wretchedness of one who neither has house nor +home—a vagabond and outcast of society.</p> +<p>At last, when these unfeeling people saw that I was +determined, at all events, to stay there all night, they gave me +a bed, but not till I had long given up all hopes of getting +one. And in the morning, when they asked me a shilling for +it, I gave them half-a-crown, adding, with something of an air, +that I would have no change. This I did, though perhaps +foolishly, to show them that I was not quite “<i>a poor +creature</i>.” And now they took leave of me with +great civility and many excuses; and I now continued my journey +much at my ease.</p> +<p>When I had passed Matlock I did not go again towards Derby, +but took the road to the left towards Nottingham. Here the +hills gradually disappeared; and my journey now lay through +meadow grounds and cultivated fields.</p> +<p>I must here inform you that the word <i>Peake</i>, or +<i>Pike</i>, in old English signifies a point or summit. +The <i>Peak</i> of Derbyshire, therefore, means that part of the +country which is hilly, or where the mountains are highest.</p> +<p>Towards noon I again came to an eminence, where I found but +one single solitary inn, which had a singular inscription on its +sign. It was in rhyme, and I remember only that it ended +with these words, “Refresh, and then go on.” +“Entertainment for man and horse.” This I have +seen on several signs, but the most common, at all the lesser +ale-houses, is, “A. B. C. or D. dealer in foreign +spirituous liquors.”</p> +<p>I dined here on cold meat and salad. This, or else eggs +and salad, was my usual supper, and my dinner too, at the inns at +which I stopped. It was but seldom that I had the good +fortune to get anything hot. The salad, for which they +brought me all the ingredients, I was always obliged to dress +myself. This, I believe, is always done in England.</p> +<p>The road was now tolerably pleasant, but the country seemed +here to be uniform and unvaried, even to dulness. However, +it was a very fine evening, and as I passed through a village +just before sunset several people who met me accosted me with a +phrase which, at first, I thought odd, but which I now think +civil, if not polite. As if I could possibly want +information on such a point as they passed me, they all very +courteously told me, “’Twas a fine evening,” or +“A pleasant night.”</p> +<p>I have also often met people who as they passed me obligingly +and kindly asked: “How do you do?” To which +unexpected question from total strangers I have now learned to +answer, “Pretty well, I thank you; how do you +do?” This manner of address must needs appear very +singular to a foreigner, who is all at once asked by a person +whom he has never seen before how he does.</p> +<p>After I had passed through this village I came to a green +field, at the side of which I met with an ale-house. The +mistress was sitting at the window. I asked her if I could +stay the night there. She said “No!” and shut +the window in my face.</p> +<p>This unmannerliness recalled to my recollection the many +receptions of this kind to which I have now so often been +exposed, and I could not forbear uttering aloud my indignation at +the inhospitality of the English. This harsh sentiment I +soon corrected, however, as I walked on, by recollecting, and +placing in the opposite scale, the unbounded and unequalled +generosity of this nation, and also the many acts of real and +substantial kindness which I had myself experienced in it.</p> +<p>I at last came to another inn, where there was written on the +sign: “The Navigation Inn,” because it is the depot, +or storehouse, of the colliers of the Trent.</p> +<p>A rougher or ruder kind of people I never saw than these +colliers, whom I here met assembled in the kitchen, and in whose +company I was obliged to spend the evening.</p> +<p>Their language, their dress, their manners were, all of them, +singularly vulgar and disagreeable, and their expressions still +more so, for they hardly spoke a word, without adding “a +G—d d— me” to it, and thus cursing, +quarrelling, drinking, singing, and fighting, they seemed to be +pleased, and to enjoy the evening. I must do them the +justice to add, that none of them, however, at all molested me or +did me any harm. On the contrary, every one again and again +drank my health, and I took care not to forget to drink theirs in +return. The treatment of my host at Matlock was still fresh +in my memory, and so, as often as I drank, I never omitted +saying, “Your healths, gentlemen all!”</p> +<p>When two Englishmen quarrel, the fray is carried on, and +decided, rather by actions than by words; though loud and +boisterous, they do not say much, and frequently repeat the same +thing over and over again, always clinching it with an additional +“G— d— you!” Their anger seems to +overpower their utterance, and can vent only by coming to +blows.</p> +<p>The landlady, who sat in the kitchen along with all this +goodly company, was nevertheless well dressed, and a remarkably +well-looking woman. As soon as I had supped I hastened to +bed, but could not sleep; my quondam companions, the colliers, +made such a noise the whole night through. In the morning, +when I got up, there was not cue to be seen nor heard.</p> +<p>I was now only a few miles from Nottingham, where I arrived +towards noon.</p> +<p>This, of all the towns I have yet seen, except London, seemed +to me to be one of the best, and is undoubtedly the +cleanest. Everything here wore a modern appearance, and a +large place in the centre, scarcely yielded to a London square in +point of beauty.</p> +<p>From the town a charming footpath leads you across the meadows +to the high-road, where there is a bridge over the Trent. +Not far from this bridge was an inn, where I dined, though I +could get nothing but bread-and-butter, of which I desired to +have a toast made.</p> +<p>Nottingham lies high, and made a beautiful appearance at a +distance, with its neat high houses, red roofs, and its lofty +steeples. I have not seen so fine a prospect in any other +town in England.</p> +<p>I now came through several villages, as Ruddington, Bradmore, +and Buny, to Castol, where I stayed all night.</p> +<p>This whole afternoon I heard the ringing of bells in many of +the villages. Probably it is some holiday which they thus +celebrate. It was cloudy weather, and I felt myself not at +all well, and in these circumstances this ringing discomposed me +still more, and made me at length quite low-spirited and +melancholy.</p> +<p>At Castol there were three inns close to each other, in which, +to judge only from the outside of the houses, little but poverty +was to be expected. In the one at which I at length stopped +there was only a landlady, a sick butcher, and a sick carter, +both of whom had come to stay the night. This assemblage of +sick persons gave me the idea of an hospital, and depressed me +still more. I felt some degree of fever, was very restless +all night, and so I kept my bed very late the next morning, until +the woman of the house came and aroused me by saying she had been +uneasy on my account. And now I formed the resolution to go +to Leicester in the post-coach.</p> +<p>I was now only four miles from Loughborough, a small, and I +think, not a very handsome town, where I arrived late at noon, +and dined at the last inn on the road that leads to +Leicester. Here again, far beyond expectation, the people +treated me like a gentleman, and let me dine in the parlour.</p> +<p>From Loughborough to Leicester was only ten miles, but the +road was sandy and very unpleasant walking.</p> +<p>I came through a village called Mountsorrel, which perhaps +takes its name from a little hill at the end of it. As for +the rest, it was all one large plain, all the way to +Leicester.</p> +<p>Towards evening I came to a pleasant meadow just before I got +to Leicester, through which a footpath led me to the town, which +made a good appearance as I viewed it lengthways, and indeed much +larger than it really is.</p> +<p>I went up a long street before I got to the house from which +the post-coaches set out, and which is also an inn. I here +learnt that the stage was to set out that evening for London, but +that the inside was already full; some places were, however, +still left on the outside.</p> +<p>Being obliged to bestir myself to get back to London, as the +time drew near when the Hamburg captain, with whom I intend to +return, had fixed his departure, I determined to take a place as +far as Northampton on the outside.</p> +<p>But this ride from Leicester to Northampton I shall remember +as long as I live.</p> +<p>The coach drove from the yard through a part of the +house. The inside passengers got in in the yard, but we on +the outside were obliged to clamber up in the public street, +because we should have had no room for our heads to pass under +the gateway.</p> +<p>My companions on the top of the coach were a farmer, a young +man very decently dressed, and a blackamoor.</p> +<p>The getting up alone was at the risk of one’s life, and +when I was up I was obliged to sit just at the corner of the +coach, with nothing to hold by but a sort of little handle +fastened on the side. I sat nearest the wheel, and the +moment that we set off I fancied that I saw certain death await +me. All I could do was to take still safer hold of the +handle, and to be more and more careful to preserve my +balance.</p> +<p>The machine now rolled along with prodigious rapidity, over +the stones through the town, and every moment we seemed to fly +into the air, so that it was almost a miracle that we still stuck +to the coach and did not fall. We seemed to be thus on the +wing, and to fly, as often as we passed through a village, or +went down a hill.</p> +<p>At last the being continually in fear of my life became +insupportable, and as we were going up a hill, and consequently +proceeding rather slower than usual, I crept from the top of the +coach and got snug into the basket.</p> +<p>“O, sir, sir, you will be shaken to death!” said +the black, but I flattered myself he exaggerated the +unpleasantness of my post.</p> +<p>As long as we went up hill it was easy and pleasant. +And, having had little or no sleep the night before, I was almost +asleep among the trunks and the packages; but how was the case +altered when we came to go down hill! then all the trunks and +parcels began, as it were, to dance around me, and everything in +the basket seemed to be alive, and I every moment received from +them such violent blows that I thought my last hour was +come. I now found that what the black had told me was no +exaggeration, but all my complaints were useless. I was +obliged to suffer this torture nearly an hour, till we came to +another hill again, when quite shaken to pieces and sadly +bruised, I again crept to the top of the coach, and took +possession of my former seat. “Ah, did not I tell you +that you would be shaken to death?” said the black, as I +was getting up, but I made him no reply. Indeed, I was +ashamed; and I now write this as a warning to all strangers to +stage-coaches who may happen to take it into their heads, without +being used to it, to take a place on the outside of an English +post-coach, and still more, a place in the basket.</p> +<p>About midnight we arrived at Harborough, where I could only +rest myself a moment, before we were again called to set off, +full drive, through a number of villages, so that a few hours +before daybreak we had reached Northampton, which is, however, +thirty-three miles from Leicester.</p> +<p>From Harborough to Leicester I had a most dreadful journey, it +rained incessantly; and as before we had been covered with dust, +we now were soaked with rain. My neighbour, the young man +who sat next me in the middle, that my inconveniences might be +complete, every now and then fell asleep; and as, when asleep, he +perpetually bolted and rolled against me, with the whole weight +of his body, more than once he was very near pushing me entirely +off my seat.</p> +<p>We at last reached Northampton, where I immediately went to +bed, and have slept almost till noon. To-morrow morning I +intend to continue my journey to London in some other +stage-coach.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, 15th <i>July</i>, +1782.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> journey from Northampton to +London I can again hardly call a journey, but rather a perpetual +motion, or removal from one place to another, in a close box; +during your conveyance you may, perhaps, if you are in luck, +converse with two or three people shut up along with you.</p> +<p>But I was not so fortunate, for my three travelling companions +were all farmers, who slept so soundly that even the hearty +knocks of the head with which they often saluted each other, did +not awake them.</p> +<p>Their faces, bloated and discoloured by their copious use of +ale and brandy, looked, as they lay before me, like so many lumps +of dead flesh. When now and then they woke, sheep, in which +they all dealt, was the first and last topic of their +conversation. One of the three, however, differed not a +little from the other two; his face was sallow and thin, his eyes +quite sunk and hollow, his long, lank fingers hung quite loose, +and as if detached from his hands. He was, in short, the +picture of avarice and misanthropy. The former he certainly +was; for at every stage he refused to give the coachman the +accustomed perquisite, which every body else paid; and every +farthing he was forced to part with, forced a “G—d +d—n” from his heart. As he sat in the coach, he +seemed anxious to shun the light; and so shut up every window +that he could come at, except when now and then I opened them to +take a slight view of the charms of the country through which we +seemed to be flying, rather than driving.</p> +<p>Our road lay through Newport Pagnell, Dunstable, St. Albans, +Barnet, to Islington, or rather to London itself. But these +names are all I know of the different places.</p> +<p>At Dunstable, if I do not mistake, we breakfasted; and here, +as is usual, everything was paid for in common by all the +passengers; as I did not know this, I ordered coffee separately; +however, when it came, the three farmers also drank of it, and +gave me some of their tea.</p> +<p>They asked me what part of the world I came from; whereas we +in Germany generally inquired what countryman a person is.</p> +<p>When we had breakfasted, and were again seated in the coach, +all the farmers, the lean one excepted, seemed quite alive again, +and now began a conversation on religion and on politics.</p> +<p>One of them brought the history of Samson on the carpet, which +the clergyman of his parish, he said, had lately explained, I +dare say very satisfactorily; though this honest farmer still had +a great many doubts about the great gate which Samson carried +away, and about the foxes with the firebrands between their +tails. In other respects, however, the man seemed not to be +either uninformed or sceptical.</p> +<p>They now proceeded to relate to each other various stories, +chiefly out of the Bible; not merely as important facts, but as +interesting narratives, which they would have told and listened +to with equal satisfaction had they met them anywhere else. +One of them had only heard these stories from his minister in the +church, not being able to read them himself.</p> +<p>The one that sat next to him now began to talk about the Jews +of the Old Testament, and assured us that the present race were +all descended from those old ones. “Ay, and they are +all damned to all eternity!” said his companion, as coolly +and as confidently as if at that moment he had seen them burning +in the bottomless pit.</p> +<p>We now frequently took up fresh passengers, who only rode a +short distance with us, and then got out again. Among +others was a woman from London, whose business was the making of +brandy. She entertained us with a very circumstantial +narrative of all the shocking scenes during the late riot in that +city. What particularly struck me was her saying that she +saw a man, opposite to her house, who was so furious, that he +stood on the wall of a house that was already half burnt down, +and there, like a demon, with his own hands pulled down and +tossed about the bricks which the fire had spared, till at length +he was shot, and fell back among the flames.</p> +<p>At length we arrived at London without any accident, in a hard +rain, about one o’clock. I had been obliged to pay +sixteen shillings beforehand at Northampton, for the sixty miles +to London. This the coachman seemed not to know for +certain, and therefore asked me more earnestly if I was sure I +had paid: I assured him I had, and he took my word.</p> +<p>I looked like a crazy creature when I arrived in London; +notwithstanding which, Mr. Pointer, with whom I left my trunk, +received me in the most friendly manner, and desired me during +dinner to relate to him my adventures.</p> +<p>The same evening I called on Mr. Leonhardi, who, as I did not +wish to hire a lodging for the few days I might be obliged to +wait for a fair wind, got me into the Freemasons’ +Tavern. And here I have been waiting these eight days, and +the wind still continues contrary for Hambro’; though I do +now most heartily wish for a fair wind, as I can no longer make +any improvement by my stay, since I must keep myself in constant +readiness to embark whenever the wind changes; and therefore I +dare go no great distance.</p> +<p>Everybody here is now full of the Marquis of +Rockingham’s death, and the change of the ministry in +consequence of it. They are much displeased that Fox has +given up his seat; and yet it is singular, they still are much +concerned, and interest themselves for him, as if whatever +interested him were the interest of the nation. On Tuesday +there was a highly important debate in Parliament. Fox was +called on to assign the true reasons of his resignation before +the nation. At eleven o’clock the gallery was so full +that nobody could get a place, and the debates only began at +three, and lasted this evening till ten.</p> +<p>About four Fox came. Every one was full of +expectation. He spoke at first with great vehemence, but it +was observed that he gradually became more and more moderate, and +when at length he had vindicated the step he had taken, and +showed it to be, in every point of view, just, wise, and +honourable, he added, with great force and pathos, “and now +I stand here once more as poor as ever I was.” It was +impossible to hear such a speech and such declarations +unmoved.</p> +<p>General Conway then gave his reasons why he did not resign, +though he was of the same political principles as Mr. Fox and Mr. +Burke; he was of the same opinion with them in regard to the +independency of America; the more equal representation of the +people in Parliament, and the regulations necessary in Ireland; +but he did not think the present minister, Lord Shelburne, would +act contrary to those principles. As soon as he did, he +should likewise resign, but not before.</p> +<p>Burke now stood up and made a most elegant though florid +speech, in praise of the late Marquis of Rockingham. As he +did not meet with sufficient attention, and heard much talking +and many murmurs, he said, with much vehemence and a sense of +injured merit, “This is not treatment for so old a member +of Parliament as I am, and I will be heard!”—on which +there was immediately a most profound silence. After he had +said much more in praise of Rockingham, he sub-joined, that with +regard to General Conway’s remaining in the ministry, it +reminded him of a fable he had heard in his youth, of a wolf, +who, on having clothed himself as a sheep, was let into the fold +by a lamb, who indeed did say to him, “Where did you get +those long nails, and those sharp teeth, mamma?” But +nevertheless let him in; the consequence of which was he murdered +the whole flock. Now with respect to General Conway, it +appeared to him, just as though the lamb certainly did perceive +the nails and teeth of the wolf, but notwithstanding, was so +good-tempered to believe that the wolf would change his nature, +and become a lamb. By this, he did not mean to reflect on +Lord Shelburne: only of this he was certain, that the present +administration was a thousand times worse than that under Lord +North (who was present).</p> +<p>When I heard Mr. Pitt speak for the first time, I was +astonished that a man of so youthful an appearance should stand +up at all; but I was still more astonished to see how, while he +spoke, he engaged universal attention. He seems to me not +to be more than one-and-twenty. This same Pitt is now +minister, and even Chancellor of the Exchequer.</p> +<p>It is shocking to a foreigner, to see what violent satires on +men, rather than on things, daily appear in the newspapers, of +which they tell me there are at least a dozen, if not more, +published every day. Some of them side with the Ministry, +and still more I think with the Opposition. A paper that +should be quite impartial, if that were possible, I apprehend +would be deemed so insipid as to find no readers. No longer +ago than yesterday, it was mentioned in one of these newspapers, +that when Fox, who is fallen, saw so young a man as Pitt made the +minister, he exclaimed with Satan, who, in “Paradise +Lost,” on perceiving the man approved by God, called out, +“O hateful sight!”</p> +<p>On Thursday the king went with the usual solemnity to prorogue +the Parliament for a stated time. But I pass this over as a +matter that has already been so often described.</p> +<p>I have also, during this period, become acquainted with Baron +Grothaus, the famous walker, to whom I had also a letter of +recommendation from Baron Groote of Hambro’. He lives +in Chesterfield House, not far from General Paoli, to whom he has +promised to introduce me, if I have time to call on him +again.</p> +<p>I have suffered much this week from the violent cough I +brought with me from the hole in Derbyshire, so that I could not +for some days stir; during which time Messrs. Schonborn and +Leonhardi have visited me very attentively, and contributed much +to my amendment.</p> +<p>I have been obliged to relate as much about my journey out of +London here as I probably shall in Germany of all England in +general. To most people to whom I give an account of my +journey, what I have seen is quite new. I must, however, +here insert a few remarks on the elocution, or manner of +speaking, of this country, which I had forgot before to write to +you.</p> +<p>English eloquence appears to me not to be nearly so capable of +so much variety and diffusion as ours is. Add to this, in +their Parliamentary speeches, in sermons in the pulpit, in the +dialogues on the stage; nay, even in common conversation, their +periods at the end of a sentence are always accompanied by a +certain singular uniform fall of the voice, which, +notwithstanding its monotony has in it something so peculiar, and +so difficult, that I defy any foreigner ever completely to +acquire it. Mr. Leonhardi in particular seemed to me, in +some passages which he repeated out of <i>Hamlet</i>, to have +learnt to sink his voice in the true English manner; yet any one +might know from his speaking that he is not an Englishman. +The English place the accent oftener on the adjectives than they +do on the substantive, which, though undoubtedly the most +significant word in any sentence, has frequently less stress laid +on it than you hear laid on mere epithets. On the stage +they pronounce the syllables and words extremely distinct, so +that at the theatres you may always gain most instruction in +English elocution and pronunciation.</p> +<p>This kingdom is remarkable for running into dialect: even in +London they are said to have one. They say, for example, +“it a’nt” instead of “it is not;” +“I don’t know,” for “I do not +know;” “I don’t know him,” for “I +do not know him;” the latter of which phrases has often +deceived me, as I mistook a negative for an affirmative.</p> +<p>The word “sir,” in English, has a great variety of +significations. With the appellation of “sir,” +an Englishman addresses his king, his friend, his foe, his +servant, and his dog; he makes use of it when asking a question +politely; and a member of Parliament, merely to fill up a +vacancy, when he happens to be at a loss. +“Sir?” in an inquiring tone of voice, signifies what +is your desire? “Sir!” in a humble +tone—gracious Sovereign!—“Sir!” in surly +tone, a box on the ear at your service! To a dog it means a +good beating. And in a speech in Parliament, accompanied by +a pause, it signifies, I cannot now recollect what it is I wish +to say farther.</p> +<p>I do not recollect to have heard any expression repeated +oftener than this, “Never mind it!” A porter +one day fell down, and cut his head on the pavement: “O, +never mind it!” said an Englishman who happened to be +passing by. When I had my trunk fetched from the ship in a +boat, the waterman rowed among the boats, and his boy, who stood +at the head of his boat, got a sound drubbing, because the others +would not let him pass: “O, never mind it!” said the +old one, and kept rowing on.</p> +<p>The Germans who have been here any time almost constantly make +use of Anglicisms, such as “<i>es will nicht +thun</i>” (it will not do), instead of <i>es ist nicht +hinlänglich</i> (it is not sufficient), and many such. +Nay, some even say, “<i>Ich habe es nicht +geminded</i>” (I did not mind it), instead of <i>ich habe +mich nicht daran errinnert</i>, oder <i>daran gedacht</i> (I did +not recollect it, or I did not think of it).</p> +<p>You can immediately distinguish Englishmen when they speak +German, by their pronunciation according to the English manner; +instead of <i>Ich befinde mich wohl</i>, they say <i>Ich +befirmich u’hol</i> (I am very well), the <i>w</i> being as +little noticed as <i>u</i> quickly sounded.</p> +<p>I have often heard, when directing any one in the street, the +phrase, “Go down the street as far as ever you can go, and +ask anybody.” Just as we say, “Every child can +direct you.”</p> +<p>I have already noticed in England they learn to write a much +finer hand than with us. This probably arises from their +making use of only one kind of writing, in which the letters are +all so exact that you would take it for print.</p> +<p>In general, in speaking, reading, in their expressions, and in +writing, they seem, in England, to have more decided rules than +we have. The lowest man expresses himself in proper +phrases, and he who publishes a book, at least writes correctly, +though the matter be ever so ordinary. In point of style, +when they write, they seem to be all of the same country, +profession, rank, and station.</p> +<p>The printed English sermons are beyond all question the best +in the world; yet I have sometimes heard sad, miserable stuff +from their pulpits. I have been in some churches where the +sermons seem to have been transcribed or compiled from essays and +pamphlets; and the motley composition, after all, very badly put +together. It is said that there are a few in London, by +whom some of the English clergy are supposed to get their sermons +made for money.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>, 18th <i>July</i>.</p> +<p>I <span class="smcap">write</span> to you now for the last +time from London; and, what is still more, from St. +Catherine’s, one of the most execrable holes in all this +great city, where I am obliged to stay, because the great ships +arrive in the Thames here, and go from hence, and we shall sail +as soon as the wind changes. This it has just now done, yet +still it seems we shall not sail till to-morrow. To-day +therefore I can still relate to you all the little that I have +farther noticed.</p> +<p>On Monday morning I moved from the Freemasons’ Tavern to +a public-house here, of which the master is a German; and where +all the Hambro’ captains lodge. At the +Freemasons’ Tavern, the bill for eight days’ lodging, +breakfast, and dinner came to one guinea and nine shillings and +nine pence. Breakfast, dinner, and coffee were always, with +distinction, reckoned a shilling each. For my lodging I +paid only twelve shillings a week, which was certainly cheap +enough.</p> +<p>At the German’s house in St. Catherine’s, on the +contrary, everything is more reasonable, and you here eat, drink, +and lodge for half-a-guinea a week. Notwithstanding, +however, I would not advise anybody who wishes to see London, to +lodge here long; for St. Catherine’s is one of the most +out-of-the-way and inconvenient places in the whole town.</p> +<p>He who lands here first sees this miserable, narrow, dirty +street, and this mass of ill-built, old, ruinous houses; and of +course forms, at first sight, no very favourable idea of this +beautiful and renowned city.</p> +<p>From Bullstrode Street, or Cavendish Square, to St. +Catherine’s, is little less than half a day’s +journey. Nevertheless, Mr. Schonborn has daily visited me +since I have lived here; and I have always walked back half-way +with him. This evening we took leave of each other near St. +Paul’s, and this separation cost me not a few tears.</p> +<p>I have had a very agreeable visit this afternoon from Mr. +Hansen, one of the assistants to the “Zollner book for all +ranks of men” who brought me a letter from the Rev. Mr. +Zollner at Berlin, and just arrived at London when I was going +away. He is going on business to Liverpool. I have +these few days past, for want of better employment, walked +through several parts of London that I had not before seen. +Yesterday I endeavoured to reach the west end of the town; and I +walked several miles, when finding it was grown quite dark, I +turned back quite tired, without having accomplished my end.</p> +<p>Nothing in London makes so disgusting an appearance to a +foreigner, as the butchers’ shops, especially in the +environs of the Tower. Guts and all the nastiness are +thrown into the middle of the street, and cause an insupportable +stench.</p> +<p>I have forgot to describe the ’Change to you; this +beautiful building is a long square in the centre of which is an +open area, where the merchants assemble. All round, there +are covered walks supported by pillars on which the name of the +different commercial nations you may wish to find are written up, +that among the crowd of people you may be able to find each +other. There are also stone benches made under the covered +walks, which after a ramble from St. Catherine’s, for +example, hither, are very convenient to rest yourself.</p> +<p>On the walls all kinds of handbills are stuck up. Among +others I read one of singular contents. A clergyman +exhorted the people not to assent to the shameful Act of +Parliament for the toleration of Catholics, by suffering their +children to their eternal ruin to be instructed and educated by +them; but rather to give him, an orthodox clergyman of the Church +of England, this employ and this emolument.</p> +<p>In the middle of the area is a stone statue of Charles the +Second. As I sat here on a bench, and gazed on the immense +crowds that people London, I thought that, as to mere dress and +outward appearance, these here did not seem to be materially +different from our people at Berlin.</p> +<p>Near the ’Change is a shop where, for a penny or even a +halfpenny only, you may read as many newspapers as you +will. There are always a number of people about these +shops, who run over the paper as they stand, pay their halfpenny, +and then go on.</p> +<p>Near the ’Change there is a little steeple with a set of +bells which have a charming tone, but they only chime one or two +lively tunes, though in this part of the City you constantly hear +bells ringing in your ears.</p> +<p>It has struck me that in London there is no occasion for any +elementary works or prints, for the instruction of +children. One need only lead them into the City, and show +them the things themselves as they really are. For here it +is contrived, as much as possible, to place in view for the +public inspection every production of art, and every effort of +industry. Paintings, mechanisms, curiosities of all kinds, +are here exhibited in the large and light shop windows, in the +most advantageous manner; nor are spectators wanting, who here +and there, in the middle of the street, stand still to observe +any curious performance. Such a street seemed to me to +resemble a well regulated cabinet of curiosities.</p> +<p>But the squares, where the finest houses are, disdain and +reject all such shows and ornaments, which are adapted only to +shopkeepers’ houses. The squares, moreover, are not +nearly so crowded or so populous as the streets and the other +parts of the city. There is nearly as much difference +between these squares and the Strand in London, in point of +population and bustle, as there is between Millbank and +Fredericksstadt in Berlin.</p> +<p>I do not at present recollect anything further, my dear +friend, worth your attention, which I can now write to you, +except that everything is ready for our departure +to-morrow. I paid Captain Hilkes, with whom I came over +from Hambro’, four guineas for my passage and my board in +the cabin. But Captain Braunschweig, with whom I am to +return, charges me five guineas; because provisions, he says, are +dearer in London than at Hambro’. I now have related +to you all my adventures and all my history from the time that I +took leave of you in the street, my voyage hither with Captain +Hilkes excepted. Of this, all that I think it necessary to +mention is, that, to my great dissatisfaction, it lasted a +fortnight, and three days I was sea-sick. Of my voyage back +I will give you a personal account. And now remember me to +Biester, and farewell till I see you again.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 5249-h.htm or 5249-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/2/4/5249 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6dda1f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #5249 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/5249) diff --git a/old/teng10.txt b/old/teng10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c2eafb4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/teng10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5909 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in England in 1782, by Charles P. Moritz + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Travels in England in 1782 + +Author: Charles P. Moritz + +Release Date: March, 2004 [EBook #5249] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on June 11, 2002] +[Most recently updated: June 11, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782 *** + + + + +Transcribed from the 1886 Cassell & Company edition by David Price, +email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk + + + + +TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782 + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + + +Charles P. Moritz's "Travels, chiefly on foot, through several parts +of England in 1782, described in Letters to a Friend," were +translated from the German by a lady, and published in 1795. John +Pinkerton included them in the second volume of his Collection of +Voyages and Travels. + +The writer of this account of England as it was about a hundred +years ago, and seven years before the French Revolution, was a young +Prussian clergyman, simply religious, calmly enthusiastic for the +freer forms of citizenship, which he found in England and contrasted +with the military system of Berlin. The touch of his times was upon +him, with some of the feeling that caused Frenchmen, after the first +outbreak of the Revolution, to hail Englishmen as "their forerunners +in the glorious race." He had learnt English at home, and read +Milton, whose name was inscribed then in German literature on the +banners of the free. + +In 1782 Charles Moritz came to England with little in his purse and +"Paradise Lost" in his pocket, which he meant to read in the Land of +Milton. He came ready to admire, and enthusiasm adds some colour to +his earliest impressions; but when they were coloured again by hard +experience, the quiet living sympathy remained. There is nothing +small in the young Pastor Moritz, we feel a noble nature in his true +simplicity of character. + +He stayed seven weeks with us, three of them in London. He +travelled on foot to Richmond, Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, and +Matlock, with some experience of a stage coach on the way back; and +when, in dread of being hurled from his perch on the top as the +coach flew down hill, he tried a safer berth among the luggage in +the basket, he had further experience. It was like that of Hood's +old lady, in the same place of inviting shelter, who, when she crept +out, had only breath enough left to murmur, "Oh, them boxes!" + +Pastor Moritz's experience of inns was such as he hardly could pick +up in these days of the free use of the feet. But in those days +everybody who was anybody rode. And even now, there might be cold +welcome to a shabby-looking pedestrian without a knapsack. Pastor +Moritz had his Milton in one pocket and his change of linen in the +other. From some inns he was turned away as a tramp, and in others +he found cold comfort. Yet he could be proud of a bit of practical +wisdom drawn by himself out of the "Vicar of Wakefield," that taught +him to conciliate the innkeeper by drinking with him; and the more +the innkeeper drank of the ale ordered the better, because Pastor +Moritz did not like it, and it did not like him. He also felt +experienced in the ways of the world when, having taken example from +the manners of a bar-maid, if he drank in a full room he did not +omit to say, "Your healths, gentlemen all." + +Fielding's Parson Adams, with his AEschylus in his pocket, and +Parson Moritz with his Milton, have points of likeness that bear +strong witness to Fielding's power of entering into the spirit of a +true and gentle nature. After the first touches of enthusiastic +sentiment, that represent real freshness of enjoyment, there is no +reaction to excess in opposite extreme. The young foot traveller +settles down to simple truth, retains his faith in English +character, and reports ill-usage without a word of bitterness. + +The great charm of this book is its unconscious expression of the +writer's character. His simple truthfulness presents to us of 1886 +as much of the England of 1782 as he was able to see with eyes full +of intelligence and a heart full of kindness. He heard Burke speak +on the death of his friend and patron Lord Rockingham, with sudden +rebuke to an indolent and inattentive house. He heard young Pitt, +and saw how he could fix, boy as he looked, every man's attention. + + +"Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us +To see oursels as others see us! +It wad frae many a blunder free us, + And foolish notion." + + +And when the power is so friendly as that of the Pastor Moritz, we +may, if wise, know ourselves better than from a thousand satires, +but if foolish we may let all run into self-praise. + +H. M. + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +On the Thames, 31st May. + +At length, my dearest Gedike, I find myself safely landed on the +happy shores of that country, a sight of which has, for many years, +been my most earnest wish; and whither I have so often in +imagination transported myself. A few hours ago the green hills of +England yet swam imperfectly before our eyes, scarcely perceptible +in the distant horizon: they now unfold themselves on either side, +forming as it were a double amphitheatre. The sun bursts through +the clouds, and gilds alternately the shrubs and meadows on the +distant shores, and we now espy the tops of two masts of ships just +peeping above the surface of the deep. What an awful warning to +adventurous men! We now sail close by those very sands (the +Goodwin) where so many unfortunate persons have found their graves. + +The shores now regularly draw nearer to each other: the danger of +the voyage is over; and the season for enjoyment, unembittered by +cares, commences. How do we feel ourselves, we, who have long been +wandering as it were, in a boundless space, on having once more +gained prospects that are not without limits! I should imagine our +sensations as somewhat like those of the traveller who traverses the +immeasurable deserts of America, when fortunately he obtains a hut +wherein to shelter himself; in those moments he certainly enjoys +himself; nor does he then complain of its being too small. It is +indeed the lot of man to be always circumscribed to a narrow space, +even when he wanders over the most extensive regions; even when the +huge sea envelops him all around, and wraps him close to its bosom, +in the act, as it were, of swallowing him up in a moment: still he +is separated from all the circumjacent immensity of space only by +one small part, or insignificant portion of that immensity. + +That portion of this space, which I now see surrounding me, is a +most delightful selection from the whole of beautiful nature. Here +is the Thames full of large and small ships and boats, dispersed +here and there, which are either sailing on with us, or lying at +anchor; and there the hills on either side, clad with so soft and +mild a green, as I have nowhere else ever seen equalled. The +charming banks of the Elbe, which I so lately quitted, are as much +surpassed by these shores as autumn is by spring! I see everywhere +nothing but fertile and cultivated lands; and those living hedges +which in England more than in any other country, form the boundaries +of the green cornfields, and give to the whole of the distant +country the appearance of a large and majestic garden. The neat +villages and small towns with sundry intermediate country seats, +suggest ideas of prosperity and opulence which is not possible to +describe. + +The prospect towards Gravesend is particularly beautiful. It is a +clever little town, built on the side of a hill; about which there +lie hill and dale and meadows, and arable land, intermixed with +pleasure grounds and country seats; all diversified in the most +agreeable manner. On one of the highest of these hills near +Gravesend stands a windmill, which is a very good object, as you see +it at some distance, as well as part of the country around it, on +the windings of the Thames. But as few human pleasures are ever +complete and perfect, we too, amidst the pleasing contemplation of +all these beauties, found ourselves exposed on the quarter-deck to +uncommonly cold and piercing weather. An unintermitting violent +shower of rain has driven me into the cabin, where I am now +endeavouring to divert a gloomy hour by giving you the description +of a pleasing one. + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +London, 2nd June. + +This morning those of us who were fellow passengers together in the +great cabin, being six in number, requested to be set on shore in a +boat, a little before the vessel got to Dartford, which is still +sixteen miles from London. This expedient is generally adopted, +instead of going up the Thames, towards London, where on account of +the astonishing number of ships, which are always more crowded +together the nearer you approach the city, it frequently requires +many days before a ship can finish her passage. He therefore who +wishes to lose no time unnecessarily, and wishes also to avoid other +inconveniences, such as frequent stoppages, and perhaps, some +alarming dashings against other ships, prefers travelling those few +miles by land in a post-chaise, which is not very expensive, +especially when three join together, as three passengers pay no more +than one. This indulgence is allowed by act of parliament. + +As we left the vessel we were honoured with a general huzza, or in +the English phrase with three cheers, echoed from the German sailors +of our ship. This nautical style of bidding their friends farewell +our Germans have learned from the English. The cliff where we +landed was white and chalky, and as the distance was not great, nor +other means of conveyance at hand, we resolved to go on foot to +Dartford: immediately on landing we had a pretty steep hill to +climb, and that gained, we arrived at the first English village, +where an uncommon neatness in the structure of the houses, which in +general are built with red bricks and flat roofs, struck me with a +pleasing surprise, especially when I compared them with the long, +rambling, inconvenient, and singularly mean cottages of our +peasants. We now continued our way through the different villages, +each furnished with his staff, and thus exhibited no remote +resemblance of a caravan. Some few people who met us seemed to +stare at us, struck, perhaps, by the singularity of our dress, or +the peculiarity of our manner of travelling. On our route we passed +a wood where a troop of gipsies had taken up their abode around a +fire under a tree. The country, as we continued to advance, became +more and more beautiful. Naturally, perhaps, the earth is +everywhere pretty much alike, but how different is it rendered by +art! How different is that on which I now tread from ours, and +every other spot I have ever seen. The soil is rich even to +exuberance, the verdure of the trees and hedges, in short the whole +of this paradisaical region is without a parallel! The roads too +are incomparable; I am astonished how they have got them so firm and +solid; every step I took I felt, and was conscious it was English +ground on which I trod. + +We breakfasted at Dartford. Here, for the first time, I saw an +English soldier, in his red uniform, his hair cut short and combed +back on his forehead, so as to afford a full view of his fine, +broad, manly face. Here too I first saw (what I deemed a true +English fight) in the street, two boys boxing. + +Our little party now separated, and got into two post-chaises, each +of which hold three persons, though it must be owned three cannot +sit quite so commodiously in these chaises as two: the hire of a +post-chaise is a shilling for every English mile. They may be +compared to our extra posts, because they are to be had at all +times. But these carriages are very neat and lightly built, so that +you hardly perceive their motion as they roll along these firm +smooth roads; they have windows in front, and on both sides. The +horses are generally good, and the postillions particularly smart +and active, and always ride on a full trot. The one we had wore his +hair cut short, a round hat, and a brown jacket of tolerable fine +cloth, with a nosegay in his bosom. Now and then, when he drove +very hard, he looked round, and with a smile seemed to solicit our +approbation. A thousand charming spots, and beautiful landscapes, +on which my eye would long have dwelt with rapture, were now rapidly +passed with the speed of an arrow. + +Our road appeared to be undulatory, and our journey, like the +journey of life, seemed to be a pretty regular alternation of up +hill and down, and here and there it was diversified with copses and +woods; the majestic Thames every now and then, like a little forest +of masts, rising to our view, and anon losing itself among the +delightful towns and villages. The amazing large signs which at the +entrance of villages hang in the middle of the street, being +fastened to large beams, which are extended across the street from +one house to another opposite to it, particularly struck me; these +sign-posts have the appearance of gates or of gateways, for which I +at first took them, but the whole apparatus, unnecessarily large as +it seems to be, is intended for nothing more than to tell the +inquisitive traveller that there is an inn. At length, stunned as +it were by this constant rapid succession of interesting objects to +engage our attention, we arrived at Greenwich nearly in a state of +stupefaction. + +The Prospect of London. + +We first descried it enveloped in a thick smoke or fog. St. Paul's +arose like some huge mountain above the enormous mass of smaller +buildings. The Monument, a very lofty column, erected in memory of +the great fire of London, exhibited to us, perhaps, chiefly on +account of its immense height, apparently so disproportioned to its +other dimensions (for it actually struck us as resembling rather a +slender mast, towering up in immeasurable height into the clouds, +than as that it really is, a stately obelisk) an unusual and +singular appearance. Still we went on, and drew nearer and nearer +with amazing velocity, and the surrounding objects became every +moment more distinct. Westminster Abbey, the Tower, a steeple, one +church, and then another, presented themselves to our view; and we +could now plainly distinguish the high round chimneys on the tops of +the houses, which yet seemed to us to form an innumerable number of +smaller spires, or steeples. + +The road from Greenwich to London is actually busier and far more +alive than the most frequented streets in Berlin. At every step we +met people on horseback, in carriages, and foot passengers; and +everywhere also, and on each side of the road, well-built and noble +houses, whilst all along, at proper distances, the road was lined +with lamp-posts. One thing, in particular, struck and surprised me +not a little. This was the number of people we met riding and +walking with spectacles on, among whom were many who appeared stout, +healthy, and young. We were stopped at least three times at +barriers or gates, here called turnpikes, to pay a duty or toll +which, however small, as being generally paid in their copper +coinage, in the end amounted to some shillings. + +At length we arrived at the magnificent bridge of Westminster. The +prospect from this bridge alone seems to afford one the epitome of a +journey, or a voyage in miniature, as containing something of +everything that mostly occurs on a journey. It is a little +assemblage of contrasts and contrarieties. In contrast to the +round, modern, and majestic cathedral of St. Paul's on your right, +the venerable, old-fashioned, and hugely noble, long abbey of +Westminster, with its enormous pointed roof, rises on the left. +Down the Thames to the right you see Blackfriar's Bridge, which does +not yield much, if at all, in beauty to that of Westminster; on the +left bank of the Thames are delightful terraces, planted with trees, +and those new tasteful buildings called the Adelphi. On the Thames +itself are countless swarms of little boats passing and repassing, +many with one mast and one sail, and many with none, in which +persons of all ranks are carried over. Thus there is hardly less +stir and bustle on this river, than there is in some of its own +London's crowded streets. Here, indeed, you no longer see great +ships, for they come no farther than London Bridge + +We now drove into the city by Charing Cross, and along the Strand, +to those very Adelphi Buildings which had just afforded us so +charming a prospect on Westminster Bridge. + +My two travelling companions, both in the ship and the post-chaise, +were two young Englishmen, who living in this part of the town, +obligingly offered me any assistance and services in their power, +and in particular, to procure me a lodging the same day in their +neighbourhood. + +In the streets through which we passed, I must own the houses in +general struck me as if they were dark and gloomy, and yet at the +same time they also struck me as prodigiously great and majestic. +At that moment, I could not in my own mind compare the external view +of London with that of any other city I had ever before seen. But I +remember (and surely it is singular) that about five years ago, on +my first entrance into Leipzig, I had the very same sensations I now +felt. It is possible that the high houses, by which the streets at +Leipzig are partly darkened, the great number of shops, and the +crowd of people, such as till then I had never seen, might have some +faint resemblance with the scene now surrounding me in London. + +There are everywhere leading from the Strand to the Thames, some +well-built, lesser, or subordinate streets, of which the Adelphi +Buildings are now by far the foremost. One district in this +neighbourhood goes by the name of York Buildings, and in this lies +George Street, where my two travelling companions lived. There +reigns in those smaller streets towards the Thames so pleasing a +calm, compared to the tumult and bustle of people, and carriages, +and horses, that are constantly going up and down the Strand, that +in going into one of them you can hardly help fancying yourself +removed at a distance from the noise of the city, even whilst the +noisiest part of it is still so near at hand. + +It might be about ten or eleven o'clock when we arrived here. After +the two Englishmen had first given me some breakfast at their +lodgings, which consisted of tea and bread and butter, they went +about with me themselves, in their own neighbourhood, in search of +an apartment, which they at length procured for me for sixteen +shillings a week, at the house of a tailor's widow who lived +opposite to them. It was very fortunate, on other accounts, that +they went with me, for equipped as I was, having neither brought +clean linen nor change of clothes from my trunk, I might perhaps +have found it difficult to obtain good lodgings. + +It was a very uncommon but pleasing sensation I experienced on being +now, for the first time in my life, entirely among Englishmen: +among people whose language was foreign, their manners foreign, and +in a foreign climate, with whom, notwithstanding, I could converse +as familiarly as though we had been educated together from our +infancy. It is certainly an inestimable advantage to understand the +language of the country through which you travel. I did not at +first give the people I was with any reason to suspect I could speak +English, but I soon found that the more I spoke, the more attention +and regard I met with. I now occupy a large room in front on the +ground floor, which has a carpet and mats, and is very neatly +furnished; the chairs are covered with leather, and the tables are +of mahogany. Adjoining to this I have another large room. I may do +just as I please, and keep my own tea, coffee, bread and butter, for +which purpose my landlady has given me a cupboard in my room, which +locks up. + +The family consists of the mistress of the house, her maid, and her +two sons, Jacky and Jerry; singular abbreviations for John and +Jeremiah. The eldest, Jacky, about twelve years old, is a very +lively boy, and often entertains me in the most pleasing manner by +relating to me his different employments at school, and afterwards +desiring me in my turn to relate to him all manner of things about +Germany. He repeats his amo, amas, amavi, in the same singing tone +as our common school-boys. As I happened once when he was by, to +hum a lively tune, he stared at me with surprise, and then reminded +me it was Sunday; and so, that I might not forfeit his good opinion +by any appearance of levity, I gave him to understand that, in the +hurry of my journey, I had forgotten the day. He has already shown +me St. James's Park, which is not far from hence; and now let me +give you some description of the renowned + +St. James's Park. + +The park is nothing more than a semicircle, formed of an alley of +trees, which enclose a large green area in the middle of which is a +marshy pond. + +The cows feed on this green turf, and their milk is sold here on the +spot, quite new. + +In all the alleys or walks there are benches, where you may rest +yourself. When you come through the Horse Guards (which is provided +with several passages) into the park, on the right hand is St. +James's Palace, or the king's place of residence, one of the meanest +public buildings in London. At the lower end, quite at the +extremity, is the queen's palace, a handsome and modern building, +but very much resembling a private house. As for the rest, there +are generally everywhere about St. James's Park very good houses, +which is a great addition to it. There is also before the +semicircle of the trees just mentioned a large vacant space, where +the soldiers are exercised. + +How little this famous park is to be compared with our park at +Berlin, I need not mention. And yet one cannot but form a high idea +of St. James's Park and other public places in London; this arises, +perhaps, from their having been oftener mentioned in romances and +other books than ours have. Even the squares and streets of London +are more noted and better known than many of our principal towns. + +But what again greatly compensates for the mediocrity of this park, +is the astonishing number of people who, towards evening in fine +weather, resort here; our finest walks are never so full even in the +midst of summer. The exquisite pleasure of mixing freely with such +a concourse of people, who are for the most part well-dressed and +handsome, I have experienced this evening for the first time. + +Before I went to the park I took another walk with my little Jacky, +which did not cost me much fatigue and yet was most uncommonly +interesting. I went down the little street in which I live, to the +Thames nearly at the end of it, towards the left, a few steps led me +to a singularly pretty terrace, planted with trees, on the very +brink of the river. + +Here I had the most delightful prospect you can possibly imagine. +Before me was the Thames with all its windings, and the stately +arches of its bridges; Westminster with its venerable abbey to the +right, to the left again London, with St. Paul's, seemed to wind all +along the windings of the Thames, and on the other side of the water +lay Southwark, which is now also considered as part of London. +Thus, from this single spot, I could nearly at one view see the +whole city, at least that side of it towards the Thames. Not far +from hence, in this charming quarter of the town, lived the renowned +Garrick. Depend upon it I shall often visit this delightful walk +during my stay in London. + +To-day my two Englishmen carried me to a neighbouring tavern, or +rather an eating-house, where we paid a shilling each for some roast +meat and a salad, giving at the same time nearly half as much to the +waiter, and yet this is reckoned a cheap house, and a cheap style of +living. But I believe, for the future, I shall pretty often dine at +home; I have already begun this evening with my supper. I am now +sitting by the fire in my own room in London. The day is nearly at +an end, the first I have spent in England, and I hardly know whether +I ought to call it only one day, when I reflect what a quick and +varied succession of new and striking ideas have, in so short a +time, passed in my mind. + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +London, 5th June. + +At length, dearest Gedike, I am again settled, as I have now got my +trunk and all my things from the ship, which arrived only yesterday. +Not wishing to have it taken to the Custom House, which occasions a +great deal of trouble, I was obliged to give a douceur to the +officers, and those who came on board the ship to search it. Having +pacified, as I thought, one of them with a couple of shillings, +another came forward and protested against the delivery of the trunk +upon trust till I had given him as much. To him succeeded a third, +so that it cost me six shillings, which I willingly paid, because it +would have cost me still more at the Custom House. + +By the side of the Thames were several porters, one of whom took my +huge heavy trunk on his shoulders with astonishing ease, and carried +it till I met a hackney coach. This I hired for two shillings, +immediately put the trunk into it, accompanying it myself without +paying anything extra for my own seat. This is a great advantage in +the English hackney coaches, that you are allowed to take with you +whatever you please, for you thus save at least one half of what you +must pay to a porter, and besides go with it yourself, and are +better accommodated. The observations and the expressions of the +common people here have often struck me as peculiar. They are +generally laconic, but always much in earnest and significant. When +I came home, my landlady kindly recommended it to the coachman not +to ask more than was just, as I was a foreigner; to which he +answered, "Nay, if he were not a foreigner I should not overcharge +him." + +My letters of recommendation to a merchant here, which I could not +bring with me on account of my hasty departure from Hamburgh, are +also arrived. These have saved me a great deal of trouble in the +changing of my money. I can now take my German money back to +Germany, and when I return thither myself, refund to the +correspondent of the merchant here the sum which he here pays me in +English money. I should otherwise have been obliged to sell my +Prussian Fredericks-d'or for what they weighed; for some few Dutch +dollars which I was obliged to part with before I got this credit +they only gave me eight shillings. + +A foreigner has here nothing to fear from being pressed as a sailor, +unless, indeed, he should be found at any suspicious place. A +singular invention for this purpose of pressing is a ship, which is +placed on land not far from the Tower, on Tower Hill, furnished with +masts and all the appurtenances of a ship. The persons attending +this ship promise simple country people, who happen to be standing +and staring at it, to show it to them for a trifle, and as soon as +they are in, they are secured as in a trap, and according to +circumstances made sailors of or let go again. + +The footway, paved with large stones on both sides of the street, +appears to a foreigner exceedingly convenient and pleasant, as one +may there walk in perfect safety, in no more danger from the +prodigious crowd of carts and coaches, than if one was in one's own +room, for no wheel dares come a finger's breadth upon the curb +stone. However, politeness requires you to let a lady, or any one +to whom you wish to show respect, pass, not, as we do, always to the +right, but on the side next the houses or the wall, whether that +happens to be on the right or on the left, being deemed the safest +and most convenient. You seldom see a person of any understanding +or common sense walk in the middle of the streets in London, +excepting when they cross over, which at Charing Cross and other +places, where several streets meet, is sometimes really dangerous. + +It has a strange appearance--especially in the Strand, where there +is a constant succession of shop after shop, and where, not +unfrequently, people of different trades inhabit the same house--to +see their doors or the tops of their windows, or boards expressly +for the purpose, all written over from top to bottom with large +painted letters. Every person, of every trade or occupation, who +owns ever so small a portion of a house, makes a parade with a sign +at his door; and there is hardly a cobbler whose name and profession +may not be read in large golden characters by every one that passes. +It is here not at all uncommon to see on doors in one continued +succession, "Children educated here," "Shoes mended here," "Foreign +spirituous liquors sold here," and "Funerals furnished here;" of all +these inscriptions. I am sorry to observe that "Dealer in foreign +spirituous liquors" is by far the most frequent. And indeed it is +allowed by the English themselves, that the propensity of the common +people to the drinking of brandy or gin is carried to a great +excess; and I own it struck me as a peculiar phraseology, when, to +tell you that a person is intoxicated or drunk, you hear them say, +as they generally do, that he is in liquor. In the late riots, +which even yet are hardly quite subsided, and which are still the +general topic of conversation, more people have been found dead near +empty brandy-casks in the streets, than were killed by the musket- +balls of regiments that were called in. As much as I have seen of +London within these two days, there are on the whole I think not +very many fine streets and very fine houses, but I met everywhere a +far greater number and handsomer people than one commonly meets in +Berlin. It gives me much real pleasure when I walk from Charing +Cross up the Strand, past St. Paul's to the Royal Exchange, to meet +in the thickest crowd persons from the highest to the lowest ranks, +almost all well-looking people, and cleanly and neatly dressed. I +rarely see even a fellow with a wheel-barrow who has not a shirt on, +and that, too, such a one as shows it has been washed; nor even a +beggar without both a shirt and shoes and stockings. The English +are certainly distinguished for cleanliness. + +It has a very uncommon appearance in this tumult of people, where +every one, with hasty and eager step, seems to be pursuing either +his business or his pleasure, and everywhere making his way through +the crowd, to observe, as you often may, people pushing one against +another, only perhaps to see a funeral pass. The English coffins +are made very economically, according to the exact form of the body; +they are flat, and broad at top; tapering gradually from the middle, +and drawing to a point at the feet, not very unlike the case of a +violin. + +A few dirty-looking men, who bear the coffin, endeavour to make +their way through the crowd as well as they can; and some mourners +follow. The people seem to pay as little attention to such a +procession, as if a hay-cart were driving past. The funerals of +people of distinction, and of the great, are, however, differently +regarded. + +These funerals always appear to me the more indecent in a populous +city, from the total indifference of the beholders, and the perfect +unconcern with which they are beheld. The body of a fellow-creature +is carried to his long home as though it had been utterly +unconnected with the rest of mankind. And yet, in a small town or +village, everyone knows everyone; and no one can be so insignificant +as not to be missed when he is taken away. + +That same influenza which I left at Berlin, I have had the hard +fortune again to find here; and many people die of it. It is as yet +very cold for the time of the year, and I am obliged every day to +have a fire. I must own that the heat or warmth given by sea-coal, +burnt in the chimney, appears to me softer and milder than that +given by our stoves. The sight of the fire has also a cheerful and +pleasing effect. Only you must take care not to look at it +steadily, and for a continuance, for this is probably the reason +that there are so many young old men in England, who walk and ride +in the public streets with their spectacles on; thus anticipating, +in the bloom of youth, those conveniences and comforts which were +intended for old age. + +I now constantly dine in my own lodgings; and I cannot but flatter +myself that my meals are regulated with frugality. My usual dish at +supper is some pickled salmon, which you eat in the liquor in which +it is pickled, along with some oil and vinegar; and he must be +prejudiced or fastidious who does not relish it as singularly well +tasted and grateful food. + +I would always advise those who wish to drink coffee in England, to +mention beforehand how many cups are to be made with half an ounce; +or else the people will probably bring them a prodigious quantity of +brown water; which (notwithstanding all my admonitions) I have not +yet been able wholly to avoid. The fine wheaten bread which I find +here, besides excellent butter and Cheshire-cheese, makes up for my +scanty dinners. For an English dinner, to such lodgers as I am, +generally consists of a piece of half-boiled, or half-roasted meat; +and a few cabbage leaves boiled in plain water; on which they pour a +sauce made of flour and butter. This, I assure you, is the usual +method of dressing vegetables in England. + +The slices of bread and butter, which they give you with your tea, +are as thin as poppy leaves. But there is another kind of bread and +butter usually eaten with tea, which is toasted by the fire, and is +incomparably good. You take one slice after the other and hold it +to the fire on a fork till the butter is melted, so that it +penetrates a number of slices at once: this is called toast. + +The custom of sleeping without a feather-bed for a covering +particularly pleased me. You here lie between two sheets: +underneath the bottom sheet is a fine blanket, which, without +oppressing you, keeps you sufficiently warm. My shoes are not +cleaned in the house, but by a person in the neighbourhood, whose +trade it is; who fetches them every morning, and brings them back +cleaned; for which she receives weekly so much. When the maid is +displeased with me, I hear her sometimes at the door call me "the +German"; otherwise in the family I go by the name of "the +Gentleman." + +I have almost entirely laid aside riding in a coach, although it +does not cost near so much as it does at Berlin; as I can go and +return any distance not exceeding an English mile for a shilling, +for which I should there at least pay a florin. But, moderate as +English fares are, still you save a great deal, if you walk or go on +foot, and know only how to ask your way. From my lodging to the +Royal Exchange is about as far as from one end of Berlin to the +other, and from the Tower and St. Catharine's, where the ships +arrive in the Thames, as far again; and I have already walked this +distance twice, when I went to look after my trunk before I got it +out of the ship. As it was quite dark when I came back the first +evening, I was astonished at the admirable manner in which the +streets are lighted up; compared to which our streets in Berlin make +a most miserable show. The lamps are lighted whilst it is still +daylight, and are so near each other, that even on the most ordinary +and common nights, the city has the appearance of a festive +illumination, for which some German prince, who came to London for +the first time, once, they say, actually took it, and seriously +believed it to have been particularly ordered on account of his +arrival. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +The 9th June, 1782. + +I preached this day at the German church on Ludgate Hill, for the +Rev. Mr. Wendeborn. He is the author of "Die statischen Beytrage +zur nahern Kentniss Grossbrittaniens." This valuable book has +already been of uncommon service to me, and I cannot but recommend +it to everyone who goes to England. It is the more useful, as you +can with ease carry it in your pocket, and you find in it +information on every subject. It is natural to suppose that Mr. +Wendeborn, who has now been a length of time in England, must have +been able more frequently, and with greater exactness to make his +observations, than those who only pass through, or make a very short +stay. It is almost impossible for anyone, who has this book always +at hand, to omit anything worthy of notice in or about London; or +not to learn all that is most material to know of the state and +situation of the kingdom in general. + +Mr. Wendeborn lives in New Inn, near Temple Bar, in a philosophical, +but not unimproving, retirement. He is almost become a native; and +his library consists chiefly of English books. Before I proceed, I +must just mention, that he has not hired, but bought his apartments +in this great building, called New Inn: and this, I believe, is +pretty generally the case with the lodgings in this place. A +purchaser of any of these rooms is considered as a proprietor; and +one who has got a house and home, and has a right, in parliamentary +or other elections, to give his vote, if he is not a foreigner, +which is the case with Mr. Wendeborn, who, nevertheless, was visited +by Mr. Fox when he was to be chosen member for Westminster. + +I saw, for the first time, at Mr. Wendeborn's, a very useful +machine, which is little known in Germany, or at least not much +used. + +This is a press in which, by means of very strong iron springs, a +written paper may be printed on another blank paper, and you thus +save yourself the trouble of copying; and at the same time multiply +your own handwriting. Mr. Wendeborn makes use of this machine every +time he sends manuscripts abroad, of which he wishes to keep a copy. +This machine was of mahogany, and cost pretty high. I suppose it is +because the inhabitants of London rise so late, that divine service +begin only at half-past ten o'clock. I missed Mr. Wendeborn this +morning, and was therefore obliged to enquire of the door-keeper at +St. Paul's for a direction to the German church, where I was to +preach. He did not know it. I then asked at another church, not +far from thence. Here I was directed right, and after I had passed +through an iron gate to the end of a long passage, I arrived just in +time at the church, where, after the sermon, I was obliged to read a +public thanksgiving for the safe arrival of our ship. The German +clergy here dress exactly the same as the English clergy--i.e., in +long robes with wide sleeves--in which I likewise was obliged to +wrap myself. Mr. Wendeborn wears his own hair, which curls +naturally, and the toupee is combed up. + +The other German clergymen whom I have seen wear wigs, as well as +many of the English. + +I yesterday waited on our ambassador, Count Lucy, and was agreeably +surprised at the simplicity of his manner of living. He lives in a +small private house. His secretary lives upstairs, where also I met +with the Prussian consul, who happened just then to be paying him a +visit. Below, on the right hand, I was immediately shown into his +Excellency's room, without being obliged to pass through an +antechamber. He wore a blue coat, with a red collar and red +facings. He conversed with me, as we drank a dish of coffee, on +various learned topics; and when I told him of the great dispute now +going on about the tacismus or stacismus, he declared himself, as a +born Greek, for the stacismus. + +When I came to take my leave, he desired me to come and see him +without ceremony whenever it suited me, as he should be always happy +to see me. + +Mr. Leonhard, who has translated several celebrated English plays, +such as "The School for Scandal," and some others, lives here as a +private person, instructing Germans in English, and Englishmen in +German, with great ability. He also it is who writes the articles +concerning England for the new Hamburgh newspaper, for which he is +paid a stated yearly stipend. I may add also, that he is the master +of a German Freemasons' lodge in London, and representative of all +the German lodges in England--an employment of far more trouble than +profit to him, for all the world applies to him in all cases and +emergencies. I also was recommended to him from Hamburgh. He is a +very complaisant man, and has already shown me many civilities. He +repeats English poetry with great propriety, and speaks the language +nearly with the same facility as he does his mother language. He is +married to an amiable Englishwoman. I wish him all possible +happiness. And now let me tell you something of the so often +imitated, but perhaps inimitable + +Vauxhall. + +I yesterday visited Vauxhall for the first time. I had not far to +go from my lodgings, in the Adelphi Buildings, to Westminster +Bridge, where you always find a great number of boats on the Thames, +which are ready on the least signal to serve those who will pay them +a shilling or sixpence, or according to the distance. + +From hence I went up the Thames to Vauxhall, and as I passed along I +saw Lambeth; and the venerable old palace belonging to the +archbishops of Canterbury lying on my left. + +Vauxhall is, properly speaking, the name of a little village in +which the garden, now almost exclusively bearing the same name, is +situated. You pay a shilling entrance. + +On entering it, I really found, or fancied I found, some resemblance +to our Berlin Vauxhall, if, according to Virgil, I may be permitted +to compare small things with great ones. The walks at least, with +the paintings at the end, and the high trees, which, here and there +form a beautiful grove, or wood, on either side, were so similar to +those of Berlin, that often, as I walked along them, I seemed to +transport myself, in imagination, once more to Berlin, and forgot +for a moment that immense seas, and mountains, and kingdoms now lie +between us. I was the more tempted to indulge in this reverie as I +actually met with several gentlemen, inhabitants of Berlin, in +particular Mr. S--r, and some others, with whom I spent the evening +in the most agreeable manner. Here and there (particularly in one +of the charming woods which art has formed in this garden) you are +pleasingly surprised by the sudden appearance of the statues of the +most renowned English poets and philosophers, such as Milton, +Thomson, and others. But, what gave me most pleasure was the statue +of the German composer Handel, which, on entering the garden, is not +far distant from the orchestra. + +This orchestra is among a number of trees situated as in a little +wood, and is an exceedingly handsome one. As you enter the garden, +you immediately hear the sound of vocal and instrumental music. +There are several female singers constantly hired here to sing in +public. + +On each side of the orchestra are small boxes, with tables and +benches, in which you sup. The walks before these, as well as in +every other part of the garden, are crowded with people of all +ranks. I supped here with Mr. S--r, and the secretary of the +Prussian ambassador, besides a few other gentlemen from Berlin; but +what most astonished me was the boldness of the women of the town, +who often rushed in upon us by half dozens, and in the most +shameless manner importuned us for wine, for themselves and their +followers. Our gentlemen thought it either unwise, unkind, or +unsafe, to refuse them so small a boon altogether. + +Latish in the evening we were entertained with a sight, that is +indeed singularly curious and interesting. In a particular part of +the garden a curtain was drawn up, and by means of some mechanism of +extraordinary ingenuity, the eye and the ear are so completely +deceived, that it is not easy to persuade one's self it is a +deception, and that one does not actually see and hear a natural +waterfall from a high rock. As everyone was flocking to this scene +in crowds, there arose all at once a loud cry of "Take care of your +pockets." This informed us, but too clearly, that there were some +pickpockets among the crowd, who had already made some fortunate +strokes. + +The rotunda, a magnificent circular building in the garden, +particularly engaged my attention. By means of beautiful +chandeliers, and large mirrors, it was illuminated in the most +superb manner; and everywhere decorated with delightful paintings, +and statues, in the contemplation of which you may spend several +hours very agreeably, when you are tired of the crowd and the +bustle, in the walks of the garden. + +Among the paintings one represents the surrender of a besieged city. +If you look at this painting with attention, for any length of time, +it affects you so much that you even shed tears. The expression of +the greatest distress, even bordering on despair, on the part of the +besieged, the fearful expectation of the uncertain issue, and what +the victor will determine concerning those unfortunate people, may +all be read so plainly, and so naturally in the countenances of the +inhabitants, who are imploring for mercy, from the hoary head to the +suckling whom his mother holds up, that you quite forget yourself, +and in the end scarcely believe it to be a painting before you. + +You also here find the busts of the best English authors, placed all +round on the sides. Thus a Briton again meets with his Shakespeare, +Locke, Milton, and Dryden in the public places of his amusements; +and there also reveres their memory. Even the common people thus +become familiar with the names of those who have done honour to +their nation; and are taught to mention them with veneration. For +this rotunda is also an orchestra in which the music is performed in +rainy weather. But enough of Vauxhall! + +Certain it is that the English classical authors are read more +generally, beyond all comparison, than the German; which in general +are read only by the learned; or, at most, by the middle class of +people. The English national authors are in all hands, and read by +all people, of which the innumerable editions they have gone through +are a sufficient proof. + +My landlady, who is only a tailor's widow, reads her Milton; and +tells me, that her late husband first fell in love with her on this +very account: because she read Milton with such proper emphasis. +This single instance, perhaps, would prove but little; but I have +conversed with several people of the lower class, who all knew their +national authors, and who all have read many, if not all, of them. +This elevates the lower ranks, and brings them nearer to the higher. +There is hardly any argument or dispute in conversation, in the +higher ranks, about which the lower cannot also converse or give +their opinion. Now, in Germany, since Gellert, there has as yet +been no poet's name familiar to the people. But the quick sale of +the classical authors is here promoted also by cheap and convenient +editions. They have them all bound in pocket volumes, as well as in +a more pompous style. I myself bought Milton in duodecimo for two +shillings, neatly bound; it is such a one as I can, with great +convenience, carry in my pocket. It also appears to me to be a good +fashion, which prevails here, and here only, that the books which +are most read, are always to be had already well and neatly bound. +At stalls, and in the streets, you every now and then meet with a +sort of antiquarians, who sell single or odd volumes; sometimes +perhaps of Shakespeare, etc., so low as a penny; nay, even sometimes +for a halfpenny a piece. Of one of these itinerant antiquarians I +bought the two volumes of the Vicar of Wakefield for sixpence, i.e. +for the half of an English shilling. In what estimation our German +literature is held in England, I was enabled to judge, in some +degree, by the printed proposals of a book which I saw. The title +was, "The Entertaining Museum, or Complete Circulating Library," +which is to contain a list of all the English classical authors, as +well as translations of the best French, Spanish, Italian, and even +German novels. + +The moderate price of this book deserves also to be noticed; as by +such means books in England come more within the reach of the +people; and of course are more generally distributed among them. +The advertisement mentions that in order that everyone may have it +in his power to buy this work, and at once to furnish himself with a +very valuable library, without perceiving the expense, a number will +be sent out weekly, which, stitched, costs sixpence, and bound with +the title on the back, ninepence. The twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth +numbers contain the first and second volume of the Vicar of +Wakefield, which I had just bought of the antiquarian above- +mentioned. + +The only translation from the German which has been particularly +successful in England, is Gesner's "Death of Abel." The translation +of that work has been oftener reprinted in England than ever the +original was in Germany. I have actually seen the eighteenth +edition of it; and if the English preface is to be regarded, it was +written by a lady. "Klopstock's Messiah," as is well known, has +been here but ill received; to be sure, they say it is but +indifferently translated. I have not yet been able to obtain a +sight of it. The Rev. Mr. Wendeborn has written a grammar for the +German language in English, for the use of Englishmen, which has met +with much applause. + +I must not forget to mention, that the works of Mr. Jacob Boehmen +are all translated into English. + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +London, 13th June. + +Often as I had heard Ranelagh spoken of, I had yet formed only an +imperfect idea of it. I supposed it to be a garden somewhat +different from that of Vauxhall; but, in fact, I hardly knew what I +thought of it. Yesterday evening I took a walk in order to visit +this famous place of amusement; but I missed my way and got to +Chelsea; where I met a man with a wheel-barrow, who not only very +civilly showed me the right road, but also conversed with me the +whole of the distance which we walked together. And finding, upon +enquiry, that I was a subject of the King of Prussia, he desired me, +with much eagerness, to relate to him some anecdotes concerning that +mighty monarch. At length I arrived at Ranelagh; and having paid my +half-crown on entrance, I soon enquired for the garden door, and it +was readily shown to me; when, to my infinite astonishment, I found +myself in a poor, mean-looking, and ill-lighted garden, where I met +but few people. I had not been here long before I was accosted by a +young lady, who also was walking there, and who, without ceremony, +offered me her arm, asking me why I walked thus solitarily? I now +concluded, this could not possibly be the splendid, much-boasted +Ranelagh; and so, seeing not far from me a number of people entering +a door, I followed them, in hopes either to get out again, or to +vary the scene. + +But it is impossible to describe, or indeed to conceive, the effect +it had on me, when, coming out of the gloom of the garden, I +suddenly entered a round building, illuminated by many hundred +lamps; the splendour and beauty of which surpassed everything of the +kind I had ever seen before. Everything seemed here to be round; +above, there was a gallery divided into boxes; and in one part of it +an organ with a beautiful choir, from which issued both instrumental +and vocal music. All around, under this gallery, are handsome +painted boxes for those who wish to take refreshments: the floor +was covered with mats, in the middle of which are four high black +pillars; within which there are neat fire-places for preparing tea, +coffee and punch; and all around, also, there are placed tables, set +out with all kinds of refreshments. Within these four pillars, in a +kind of magic rotundo, all the beau-monde of London move perpetually +round and round. + +I at first mixed with this immense concourse of people, of all +sexes, ages, countries, and characters; and I must confess, that the +incessant change of faces, the far greater number of which were +strikingly beautiful, together with the illumination, the extent and +majestic splendour of the place, with the continued sound of the +music, makes an inconceivably delightful impression on the +imagination; and I take the liberty to add, that, on seeing it now +for the first time, I felt pretty nearly the same sensations that I +remember to have felt when, in early youth, I first read the Fairy +Tales. + +Being, however, at length tired of the crowd, and being tired also +with always moving round and round in a circle, I sat myself down in +one of the boxes, in order to take some refreshment, and was now +contemplating at my ease this prodigious collection and crowd of a +happy, cheerful world, who were here enjoying themselves devoid of +care, when a waiter very civilly asked me what refreshments I wished +to have, and in a few moments returned with what I asked for. To my +astonishment he would accept no money for these refreshments; which +I could not comprehend, till he told me that everything was included +in the half-crown I had paid at the door; and that I had only to +command if I wished for anything more; but that if I pleased, I +might give him as a present a trifling douceur. This I gave him +with pleasure, as I could not help fancying I was hardly entitled to +so much civility and good attention for one single half-crown. + +I now went up into the gallery, and seated myself in one of the +boxes there; and from thence becoming all at once a grave and +moralising spectator, I looked down on the concourse of people who +were still moving round and round in the fairy circle; and then I +could easily distinguish several stars and other orders of +knighthood; French queues and bags contrasted with plain English +heads of hair, or professional wigs; old age and youth, nobility and +commonalty, all passing each other in the motley swarm. An +Englishman who joined me during this my reverie, pointed out to me +on my enquiring, princes and lords with their dazzling stars; with +which they eclipsed the less brilliant part of the company. + +Here some moved round in an eternal circle to see and be seen; there +a group of eager connoisseurs had placed themselves before the +orchestra and were feasting their ears, while others at the well- +supplied tables were regaling the parched roofs of their mouths in a +more substantial manner, and again others, like myself, were sitting +alone, in the corner of a box in the gallery, making their remarks +and reflections on so interesting a scene. + +I now and then indulged myself in the pleasure of exchanging, for +some minutes, all this magnificence and splendour for the gloom of +the garden, in order to renew the pleasing surprise I experienced on +my first entering the building. Thus I spent here some hours in the +night in a continual variation of entertainment; when the crowd now +all at once began to lessen, and I also took a coach and drove home. + +At Ranelagh the company appeared to me much better, and more select +than at Vauxhall; for those of the lower class who go there, always +dress themselves in their best, and thus endeavour to copy the +great. Here I saw no one who had not silk stockings on. Even the +poorest families are at the expense of a coach to go to Ranelagh, as +my landlady assured me. She always fixed on some one day in the +year, on which, without fail, she drove to Ranelagh. On the whole +the expense at Ranelagh is nothing near so great as it is at +Vauxhall, if you consider the refreshments; for any one who sups at +Vauxhall, which most people do, is likely, for a very moderate +supper, to pay at least half-a-guinea. + +The Parliament. + +I had almost forgotten to tell you that I have already been to the +Parliament House; and yet this is of most importance. For, had I +seen nothing else in England but this, I should have thought my +journey thither amply rewarded. + +As little as I have hitherto troubled myself with politics, because +indeed with us it is but little worth our while, I was however +desirous of being present at a meeting of parliament--a wish that +was soon amply gratified. + +One afternoon, about three o'clock, at which hour, or thereabouts, +the house most commonly meets, I enquired for Westminster Hall, and +was very politely directed by an Englishman. These directions are +always given with the utmost kindness. You may ask whom you please, +if you can only make yourself tolerably well understood; and by thus +asking every now and then, you may with the greatest ease find your +way throughout all London. + +Westminster Hall is an enormous Gothic building, whose vaulted roof +is supported, not by pillars, but instead of these there are, on +each side, large unnatural heads of angels, carved in wood, which +seem to support the roof. + +When you have passed through this long hall, you ascend a few steps +at the end, and are led through a dark passage into the House of +Commons, which, below, has a large double-door; and above, there is +a small staircase, by which you go to the gallery, the place +allotted for strangers. + +The first time I went up this small staircase, and had reached the +rails, I saw a very genteel man in black standing there. I accosted +him without any introduction, and I asked him whether I might be +allowed to go into the gallery. He told me that I must be +introduced by a member, or else I could not get admission there. +Now, as I had not the honour to be acquainted with a member, I was +under the mortifying necessity of retreating, and again going down- +stairs, as I did much chagrined. And now, as I was sullenly +marching back, I heard something said about a bottle of wine, which +seemed to be addressed to me. + +I could not conceive what it could mean, till I got home, when my +obliging landlady told me I should have given the well-dressed man +half-a-crown, or a couple of shillings for a bottle of wine. Happy +in this information, I went again the next day; when the same man +who before had sent me away, after I had given him only two +shillings, very politely opened the door for me, and himself +recommended me to a good seat in the gallery. + +And thus I now, for the first time, saw the whole of the British +nation assembled in its representatives, in rather a mean-looking +building, that not a little resembles a chapel. The Speaker, an +elderly man, with an enormous wig, with two knotted kind of tresses, +or curls, behind, in a black cloak, his hat on his head, sat +opposite to me on a lofty chair; which was not unlike a small +pulpit, save only that in the front of there was no reading-desk. +Before the Speaker's chair stands a table, which looks like an +altar; and at this there sit two men, called clerks, dressed in +black, with black cloaks. On the table, by the side of the great +parchment acts, lies a huge gilt sceptre, which is always taken +away, and placed in a conservatory under the table, as soon as ever +the Speaker quits the chair; which he does as often as the House +resolves itself into a committee. A committee means nothing more +than that the House puts itself into a situation freely to discuss +and debate any point of difficulty and moment, and, while it lasts, +the Speaker partly lays aside his power as a legislator. As soon as +this is over, some one tells the Speaker that he may now again be +seated; and immediately on the Speaker being again in the chair, the +sceptre is also replaced on the table before him. + +All round on the sides of the house, under the gallery, are benches +for the members, covered with green cloth, always one above the +other, like our choirs in churches, in order that he who is speaking +may see over those who sit before him. The seats in the gallery are +on the same plan. The members of parliament keep their hats on, but +the spectators in the gallery are uncovered. + +The members of the House of Commons have nothing particular in their +dress. They even come into the House in their great coats, and with +boots and spurs. It is not at all uncommon to see a member lying +stretched out on one of the benches while others are debating. Some +crack nuts, others eat oranges, or whatever else is in season. +There is no end to their going in and out; and as often as any one +wishes to go out, he places himself before the Speaker, and makes +him his bow, as if, like a schoolboy, he asked tutor's permission. + +Those who speak seem to deliver themselves with but little, perhaps +not always with even a decorous, gravity. All that is necessary is +to stand up in your place, take off your hat, turn to the Speaker +(to whom all the speeches are addressed), to hold your hat and stick +in one hand, and with the other to make any such motions as you +fancy necessary to accompany your speech. + +If it happens that a member rises who is but a bad speaker, or if +what he says is generally deemed not sufficiently interesting, so +much noise is made, and such bursts of laughter are raised, that the +member who is speaking can scarcely distinguish his own words. This +must needs be a distressing situation; and it seems then to be +particularly laughable, when the Speaker in his chair, like a tutor +in a school, again and again endeavours to restore order, which he +does by calling out "To order, to order," apparently often without +much attention being paid to it. + +On the contrary, when a favourite member, and one who speaks well +and to the purpose, rises, the most perfect silence reigns, and his +friends and admirers, one after another, make their approbation +known by calling out, "Hear him," which is often repeated by the +whole House at once; and in this way so much noise is often made +that the speaker is frequently interrupted by this same emphatic +"Hear him." Notwithstanding which, this calling out is always +regarded as a great encouragement; and I have often observed that +one who began with some diffidence, and even somewhat +inauspiciously, has in the end been so animated that he has spoken +with a torrent of eloquence. + +As all speeches are directed to the Speaker, all the members always +preface their speeches with "Sir" and he, on being thus addressed, +generally moves his hat a little, but immediately puts it on again. +This "Sir" is often introduced in the course of their speeches, and +serves to connect what is said. It seems also to stand the orator +in some stead when any one's memory fails him, or he is otherwise at +a loss for matter. For while he is saying "Sir," and has thus +obtained a little pause, he recollects what is to follow. Yet I +have sometimes seen some members draw a kind of memorandum-book out +of their pockets, like a candidate who is at a loss in his sermon. +This is the only instance in which a member of the British +parliament seems to read his speeches. + +The first day that I was at the House of Commons an English +gentleman who sat next to me in the gallery very obligingly pointed +out to me the principal members, such as Fox, Burke, Rigby, etc., +all of whom I heard speak. The debate happened to be whether, +besides being made a peer, any other specific reward should be +bestowed by the nation on their gallant admiral Rodney. In the +course of the debate, I remember, Mr. Fox was very sharply +reprimanded by young Lord Fielding for having, when minister, +opposed the election of Admiral Hood as a member for Westminster. + +Fox was sitting to the right of the Speaker, not far from the table +on which the gilt sceptre lay. He now took his place so near it +that he could reach it with his hand, and, thus placed, he gave it +many a violent and hearty thump, either to aid, or to show the +energy with which he spoke. If the charge was vehement, his defence +was no less so. He justified himself against Lord Fielding by +maintaining that he had not opposed this election in the character +of a minister, but as an individual, or private person; and that, as +such, he had freely and honestly given his vote for another--namely, +for Sir Cecil Wray, adding that the King, when he appointed him +Secretary of State, had entered into no agreement with him by which +he lost his vote as an individual; to such a requisition he never +would have submitted. It is impossible for me to describe with what +fire and persuasive eloquence he spoke, and how the Speaker in the +chair incessantly nodded approbation from beneath his solemn wig, +and innumerable voices incessantly called out, "Hear him! hear him!" +and when there was the least sign that he intended to leave off +speaking they no less vociferously exclaimed, "Go on;" and so he +continued to speak in this manner for nearly two hours. Mr. Rigby, +in reply, made a short but humorous speech, in which he mentioned of +how little consequence the title of "lord" and "lady" was without +money to support it, and finished with the Latin proverb, "infelix +paupertas--quia ridiculos miseros facit." After having first very +judiciously observed that previous inquiry should be made whether +Admiral Rodney had made any rich prizes or captures; because, if +that should be the case, he would not stand in need of further +reward in money. I have since been almost every day at the +parliament house, and prefer the entertainment I there meet with to +most other amusements. + +Fox is still much beloved by the people, notwithstanding that they +are (and certainly with good reason) displeased at his being the +cause of Admiral Rodney's recall, though even I have heard him again +and again almost extravagant in his encomiums on this noble admiral. +The same celebrated Charles Fox is a short, fat, and gross man, with +a swarthy complexion, and dark; and in general he is badly dressed. +There certainly is something Jewish in his looks. But upon the +whole, he is not an ill-made nor an ill-looking man, and there are +many strong marks of sagacity and fire in his eyes. I have +frequently heard the people here say that this same Mr. Fox is as +cunning as a fox. Burke is a well-made, tall, upright man, but +looks elderly and broken. Rigby is excessively corpulent, and has a +jolly rubicund face. + +The little less than downright open abuse, and the many really rude +things which the members said to each other, struck me much. For +example, when one has finished, another rises, and immediately taxes +with absurdity all that the right honourable gentleman (for with +this title the members of the House of Commons always honour each +other) had just advanced. It would, indeed, be contrary to the +rules of the House flatly to tell each other that what they have +spoken is FALSE, or even FOOLISH. Instead of this, they turn +themselves, as usual, to the Speaker, and so, whilst their address +is directed to him, they fancy they violate neither the rules of +parliament nor those of good breeding and decorum, whilst they utter +the most cutting personal sarcasms against the member or the measure +they oppose. + +It is quite laughable to see, as one sometimes does, one member +speaking, and another accompanying the speech with his action. This +I remarked more than once in a worthy old citizen, who was fearful +of speaking himself, but when his neighbour spoke he accompanied +every energetic sentence with a suitable gesticulation, by which +means his whole body was sometimes in motion. + +It often happens that the jett, or principal point in the debate is +lost in these personal contests and bickerings between each other. +When they last so long as to become quite tedious and tiresome, and +likely to do harm rather than good, the House takes upon itself to +express its disapprobation; and then there arises a general cry of, +"The question! the question!" This must sometimes be frequently +repeated, as the contending members are both anxious to have the +last word. At length, however, the question is put, and the votes +taken, when the Speaker says, "Those who are for the question are to +say AYE, and those who are against it NO." You then hear a confused +cry of "AYE" and "NO" but at length the Speaker says, "I think there +are more AYES than NOES, or more NOES than AYES. The AYES have it; +or the NOES have it," as the case may be. But all the spectators +must then retire from the gallery; for then, and not till then, the +voting really commences. And now the members call aloud to the +gallery, "Withdraw! withdraw!" On this the strangers withdraw, and +are shut up in a small room at the foot of the stairs till the +voting is over, when they are again permitted to take their places +in the gallery. Here I could not help wondering at the impatience +even of polished Englishmen. It is astonishing with what violence, +and even rudeness, they push and jostle one another as soon as the +room door is again opened, eager to gain the first and best seats in +the gallery. In this manner we (the strangers) have sometimes been +sent away two or three times in the course of one day, or rather +evening, afterwards again permitted to return. Among these +spectators are people of all ranks, and even, not unfrequently, +ladies. Two shorthand writers have sat sometimes not far distant +from me, who (though it is rather by stealth) endeavour to take down +the words of the speaker; and thus all that is very remarkable in +what is said in parliament may generally be read in print the next +day. The shorthand writers, whom I noticed, are supposed to be +employed and paid by the editors of the different newspapers. There +are, it seems, some few persons who are constant attendants on the +parliament; and so they pay the door-keeper beforehand a guinea for +a whole session. I have now and then seen some of the members bring +their sons, whilst quite little boys, and carry them to their seats +along with themselves. + +A proposal was once made to erect a gallery in the House of Peers +also for the accommodation of spectators. But this never was +carried into effect. There appears to be much more politeness and +more courteous behaviour in the members of the upper House. But he +who wishes to observe mankind, and to contemplate the leading traits +of the different characters most strongly marked, will do well to +attend frequently the lower, rather than the other, House. + +Last Tuesday was (what is here called) hanging-day. There was also +a parliamentary election. I could only see one of the two sights, +and therefore naturally preferred the latter, while I only heard +tolling at a distance the death-bell of the sacrifice to justice. I +now, therefore, am going to describe to you, as well as can, an + +Election for a Member of Parliament. + +The cities of London and Westminster send, the one four, and the +other two, members to parliament. Mr. Fox is one of the two members +for Westminster. One seat was vacant, and that vacancy was now to +be filled. And the same Sir Cecil Wray, whom Fox had before opposed +to Lord Hood, was now publicly chosen. They tell me that at these +elections, when there is a strong opposition party, there is often +bloody work; but this election was, in the electioneering phrase, a +"hollow thing"--i.e. quite sure, as those who had voted for Admiral +Hood now withdrew, without standing a poll, as being convinced +beforehand their chance to succeed was desperate. + +The election was held in Covent Garden, a large market-place in the +open air. There was a scaffold erected just before the door of a +very handsome church, which is also called St. Paul's, but which, +however, is not to be compared to the cathedral. + +A temporary edifice, formed only of boards and wood nailed together, +was erected on the occasion. It was called the hustings, and filled +with benches; and at one end of it, where the benches ended, mats +were laid, on which those who spoke to the people stood. In the +area before the hustings immense multitudes of people were +assembled, of whom the greatest part seemed to be of the lowest +order. To this tumultuous crowd, however, the speakers often bowed +very low, and always addressed them by the title of "gentlemen." +Sir Cecil Wray was obliged to step forward and promise these same +gentlemen, with hand and heart, that he would faithfully fulfil his +duties as their representative. He also made an apology because, on +account of his long journey and ill-health, he had not been able to +wait on them, as became him, at their respective houses. The moment +that he began to speak, even this rude rabble became all as quiet as +the raging sea after a storm, only every now and then rending the +air with the parliamentary cry of "Hear him! hear him!" and as soon +as he had done speaking, they again vociferated aloud an universal +"huzza," every one at the same time waving his hat. + +And now, being formally declared to have been legally chosen, he +again bowed most profoundly, and returned thanks for the great +honour done him, when a well-dressed man, whose name I could not +learn, stepped forward, and in a well-indited speech congratulated +both the chosen and the choosers. "Upon my word," said a gruff +carter who stood near me, "that man speaks well." + +Even little boys clambered up and hung on the rails and on the lamp- +posts; and as if the speeches had also been addressed to them, they +too listened with the utmost attention, and they too testified their +approbation of it by joining lustily in the three cheers and waving +their hats. + +All the enthusiasm of my earliest years kindled by the patriotism of +the illustrious heroes of Rome. Coriolanus, Julius Caesar, and +Antony were now revived in my mind; and though all I had just seen +and heard be, in fact, but the semblance of liberty, and that, too, +tribunitial liberty, yet at that moment I thought it charming, and +it warmed my heart. Yes, depend on it, my friend, when you here see +how, in the happy country, the lowest and meanest member of society +thus unequivocally testifies the interest which he takes in +everything of a public nature; when you see how even women and +children bear a part in the great concerns of their country; in +short, how high and low, rich and poor, all concur in declaring +their feelings and their convictions that a carter, a common tar, or +a scavenger, is still a man--nay, an Englishman, and as such has his +rights and privileges defined and known as exactly and as well as +his king, or as his king's minister--take my word for it, you will +feel yourself very differently affected from what you are when +staring at our soldiers in their exercises at Berlin. + +When Fox, who was among the voters, arrived at the beginning of the +election, he too was received with an universal shout of joy. At +length, when it was nearly over, the people took it into their heads +to hear him speak, and every one called out, "Fox! Fox!" I know +not why, but I seemed to catch some of the spirit of the place and +time, and so I also bawled "Fox! Fox!" and he was obliged to come +forward and speak, for no other reason that I could find but that +the people wished to hear him speak. In this speech he again +confirmed, in the presence of the people, his former declaration in +parliament, that he by no means had any influence as minister of +State in this election, but only and merely as a private person. + +When the whole was over, the rampant spirit of liberty and the wild +impatience of a genuine English mob were exhibited in perfection. +In a very few minutes the whole scaffolding, benches, and chairs, +and everything else, was completely destroyed. and the mat with +which it had been covered torn into ten thousand long strips, or +pieces, or strings, with which they encircled or enclosed multitudes +of people of all ranks. These they hurried along with them, and +everything else that came in their way, as trophies of joy; and +thus, in the midst of exultation and triumph, they paraded through +many of the most populous streets of London. + +Whilst in Prussia poets only speak of the love of country as one of +the dearest of all human affections, here there is no man who does +not feel, and describe with rapture, how much he loves his country. +"Yes, for my country I'll shed the last drop of my blood!" often +exclaims little Jacky, the fine boy here in the house where I live, +who is yet only about twelve years old. The love of their country, +and its unparalleled feats in war are, in general, the subject of +their ballads and popular songs, which are sung about the streets by +women, who sell them for a few farthings. It was only the other day +our Jacky brought one home, in which the history of an admiral was +celebrated who bravely continued to command, even after his two legs +were shot off and he was obliged to be supported. I know not well +by what means it has happened that the King of England, who is +certainly one of the best the nation ever had, is become unpopular. +I know not how many times I have heard people of all sorts object to +their king at the same time that they praised the King of Prussia to +the skies. Indeed, with some the veneration for our monarch went so +far that they seriously wished he was their king. All that seems to +shock and dishearten them is the prodigious armies he keeps up, and +the immense number of soldiers quartered in Berlin alone. Whereas +in London, at least in the city, not a single troop of soldiers of +the King's guard dare make their appearance. + +A few days ago I saw what is here deemed a great sight--viz., a lord +mayor's procession. The lord mayor was in an enormous large gilt +coach, which was followed by an astonishing number of most showy +carriages, in which the rest of the city magistrates, more properly +called aldermen of London, were seated. But enough for the present. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +London, June 17th, 1782. + +I have now been pretty nearly all over London, and, according to my +own notions, have now seen most of the things I was most anxious to +see. Hereafter, then, I propose to make an excursion into the +country; and this purpose, by the blessing of God, I hope to be able +to carry into effect in a very few days, for my curiosity is here +almost satiated. I seem to be tired and sick of the smoke of these +sea-coal fires, and I long, with almost childish impatience, once +more to breathe a fresher and clearer air. + +It must, I think, be owned, that upon the whole, London is neither +so handsomely nor so well built as Berlin is; but then it certainly +has far more fine squares. Of these there are many that in real +magnificence and beautiful symmetry far surpass our Gens d'Armes +Markt, our Denhoschen and William's Place. The squares or +quadrangular places contain the best and most beautiful buildings of +London; a spacious street, next to the houses, goes all round them, +and within that there is generally a round grass-plot, railed in +with iron rails, in the centre of which, in many of them, there is a +statue, which statues most commonly are equestrian and gilt. In +Grosvenor Square, instead of this green plot or area, there is a +little circular wood, intended, no doubt, to give one the idea of +rus in urbe. + +One of the longest and pleasantest walks I have yet taken is from +Paddington to Islington; where to the left you have a fine prospect +of the neighbouring hills, and in particular of the village of +Hampstead, which is built on one of them; and to the right the +streets of London furnish an endless variety of interesting views. +It is true that it is dangerous to walk here alone, especially in +the afternoon and in an evening, or at night, for it was only last +week that a man was robbed and murdered on this very same road. But +I now hasten to another and a more pleasing topic: + +The British Museum. + +I have had the happiness to become acquainted with the Rev. Mr. +Woide; who, though well known all over Europe to be one of the most +learned men of the age, is yet, if possible, less estimable for his +learning than he is for his unaffected goodness of heart. He holds +a respectable office in the museum, and was obliging enough to +procure me permission to see it, luckily the day before it was shut +up. In general you must give in your name a fortnight before you +can he admitted. But after all, I am sorry to say, it was the +rooms, the glass cases, the shelves, or the repository for the books +in the British Museum which I saw, and not the museum itself, we +were hurried on so rapidly through the apartments. The company, who +saw it when and as I did, was various, and some of all sorts; some, +I believe, of the very lowest classes of the people, of both sexes; +for, as it is the property of the nation, every one has the same +right (I use the term of the country) to see it that another has. I +had Mr. Wendeborn's book in my pocket, and it, at least, enabled me +to take a somewhat more particular notice of some of the principal +things; such as the Egyptian mummy, a head of Homer, &c. The rest +of the company, observing that I had some assistance which they had +not, soon gathered round me; I pointed out to them as we went along, +from Mr. Wendeborn's German book, what there was most worth seeing +here. The gentleman who conducted us took little pains to conceal +the contempt which he felt for my communications when he found out +that it was only a German description of the British Museum I had +got. The rapidly passing through this vast suite of rooms, in a +space of time little, if at all, exceeding an hour, with leisure +just to cast one poor longing look of astonishment on all these +stupendous treasures of natural curiosities, antiquities, and +literature, in the contemplation of which you could with pleasure +spend years, and a whole life might be employed in the study of +them--quite confuses, stuns, and overpowers one. In some branches +this collection is said to be far surpassed by some others; but +taken altogether, and for size, it certainly is equalled by none. +The few foreign divines who travel through England generally desire +to have the Alexandrian manuscript shewn them, in order to be +convinced with their own eyes whether the passage, "These are the +three that bear record, &c.," is to be found there or not. + +The Rev. Mr. Woide lives at a place called Lisson Street, not far +from Paddington; a very village-looking little town, at the west end +of London. It is quite a rural and pleasant situation; for here I +either do, or fancy I do, already breathe a purer and freer air than +in the midst of the town. Of his great abilities, and particularly +in oriental literature, I need not inform you; but it will give you +pleasure to hear that he is actually meditating a fac-simile edition +of the Alexandrian MS. I have already mentioned the infinite +obligations I lie under to this excellent man for his extraordinary +courtesy and kindness. + +The Theatre in the Haymarket. + +Last week I went twice to an English play-house. The first time +"The Nabob" was represented, of which the late Mr. Foote was the +author, and for the entertainment, a very pleasing and laughable +musical farce, called "The Agreeable Surprise." The second time I +saw "The English Merchant:" which piece has been translated into +German, and is known among us by the title of "The Scotchwoman," or +"The Coffee-house." I have not yet seen the theatres of Covent +Garden and Drury Lane, because they are not open in summer. The +best actors also usually spend May and October in the country, and +only perform in winter. + +A very few excepted, the comedians whom I saw were certainly nothing +extraordinary. For a seat in the boxes you pay five shillings, in +the pit three, in the first gallery two, and in the second or upper +gallery, one shilling. And it is the tenants in this upper gallery +who, for their shilling, make all that noise and uproar for which +the English play-houses are so famous. I was in the pit, which +gradually rises, amphitheatre-wise, from the orchestra, and is +furnished with benches, one above another, from the top to the +bottom. Often and often, whilst I sat there, did a rotten orange, +or pieces of the peel of an orange, fly past me, or past some of my +neighbours, and once one of them actually hit my hat, without my +daring to look round, for fear another might then hit me on my face. + +All over London as one walks, one everywhere, in the season, sees +oranges to sell; and they are in general sold tolerably cheap, one +and even sometimes two for a halfpenny; or, in our money, +threepence. At the play-house, however, they charged me sixpence +for one orange, and that noways remarkably good. + +Besides this perpetual pelting from the gallery, which renders an +English play-house so uncomfortable, there is no end to their +calling out and knocking with their sticks till the curtain is drawn +up. I saw a miller's, or a baker's boy, thus, like a huge booby, +leaning over the rails and knocking again and again on the outside, +with all his might, so that he was seen by everybody, without being +in the least ashamed or abashed. I sometimes heard, too, the people +in the lower or middle gallery quarrelling with those of the upper +one. Behind me, in the pit, sat a young fop, who, in order to +display his costly stone buckles with the utmost brilliancy, +continually put his foot on my bench, and even sometimes upon my +coat, which I could avoid only by sparing him as much space from my +portion of the seat as would make him a footstool. In the boxes, +quite in a corner, sat several servants, who were said to be placed +there to keep the seats for the families they served till they +should arrive; they seemed to sit remarkably close and still, the +reason of which, I was told, was their apprehension of being pelted; +for if one of them dares but to look out of the box, he is +immediately saluted with a shower of orange peel from the gallery. + +In Foote's "Nabob" there are sundry local and personal satires which +are entirely lost to a foreigner. The character of the Nabob was +performed by a Mr. Palmer. The jett of the character is, this +Nabob, with many affected airs and constant aims at gentility, is +still but a silly fellow, unexpectedly come into the possession of +immense riches, and therefore, of course, paid much court to by a +society of natural philosophers, Quakers, and I do not know who +besides. Being tempted to become one of their members, he is +elected, and in order to ridicule these would-be philosophers, but +real knaves, a fine flowery fustian speech is put into his mouth, +which he delivers with prodigious pomp and importance, and is +listened to by the philosophers with infinite complacency. The two +scenes of the Quakers and philosophers, who, with countenances full +of imaginary importance, were seated at a green table with their +president at their head while the secretary, with the utmost care, +was making an inventory of the ridiculous presents of the Nabob, +were truly laughable. One of the last scenes was best received: it +is that in which the Nabob's friend and school-fellow visit him, and +address him without ceremony by his Christian name; but to all their +questions of "Whether he does not recollect them? Whether he does +not remember such and such a play; or such and such a scrape into +which they had fallen in their youth?" he uniformly answers with a +look of ineffable contempt, only, "No sir!" Nothing can possibly be +more ludicrous, nor more comic. + +The entertainment, "The Agreeable Surprise," is really a very +diverting farce. I observed that, in England also, they represent +school-masters in ridiculous characters on the stage, which, though +I am sorry for, I own I do not wonder at, as the pedantry of school- +masters in England, they tell me, is carried at least as far as it +is elsewhere. The same person who, in the play, performed the +school-fellow of the Nabob with a great deal of nature and original +humour, here acted the part of the school-master: his name is +Edwin, and he is, without doubt, one of the best actors of all that +I have seen. + +This school-master is in love with a certain country girl, whose +name is Cowslip, to whom he makes a declaration of his passion in a +strange mythological, grammatical style and manner, and to whom, +among other fooleries, he sings, quite enraptured, the following +air, and seems to work himself at least up to such a transport of +passion as quite overpowers him. He begins, you will observe, with +the conjugation, and ends with the declensions and the genders; the +whole is inimitably droll: + + +"Amo, amas, +I love a lass, +She is so sweet and tender, +It is sweet Cowslip's Grace +In the Nominative Case. +And in the feminine Gender." + + +Those two sentences in particular, "in the Nominative Case," and "in +the feminine Gender," he affects to sing in a particularly +languishing air, as if confident that it was irresistible. This +Edwin, in all his comic characters, still preserves something so +inexpressibly good-tempered in his countenance, that notwithstanding +all his burlesques and even grotesque buffoonery, you cannot but be +pleased with him. I own, I felt myself doubly interested for every +character which he represented. Nothing could equal the tone and +countenance of self-satisfaction with which he answered one who +asked him whether he was a scholar? "Why, I was a master of +scholars." A Mrs. Webb represented a cheesemonger, and played the +part of a woman of the lower class so naturally as I have nowhere +else ever seen equalled. Her huge, fat, and lusty carcase, and the +whole of her external appearance seemed quite to be cut out for it. + +Poor Edwin was obliged, as school-master, to sing himself almost +hoarse, as he sometimes was called on to repeat his declension and +conjugation songs two or three times, only because it pleased the +upper gallery, or "the gods," as the English call them, to roar out +"encore." Add to all this, he was farther forced to thank them with +a low bow for the great honour done him by their applause. + +One of the highest comic touches in the piece seemed to me to +consist in a lie, which always became more and more enormous in the +mouths of those who told it again, during the whole of the piece. +This kept the audience in almost a continual fit of laughter. This +farce is not yet printed, or I really think I should be tempted to +venture to make a translation, or rather an imitation of it. + +"The English Merchant, or the Scotchwoman," I have seen much better +performed abroad than it was here. Mr. Fleck, at Hamburg, in +particular, played the part of the English merchant with more +interest, truth, and propriety than one Aickin did here. He seemed +to me to fail totally in expressing the peculiar and original +character of Freeport; instead of which, by his measured step and +deliberate, affected manner of speaking, he converted him into a +mere fine gentleman. + +The trusty old servant who wishes to give up his life for his master +he, too, had the stately walk, or strut, of a minister. The +character of the newspaper writer was performed by the same Mr. +Palmer who acted the part of the Nabob, but every one said, what I +thought, that he made him far too much of a gentleman. His person, +and his dress also, were too handsome for the character. + +The character of Amelia was performed by an actress, who made her +first appearance on the stage, and from a timidity natural on such +an occasion, and not unbecoming, spoke rather low, so that she could +not everywhere be heard; "Speak louder! speak louder!" cried out +some rude fellow from the upper-gallery, and she immediately, with +infinite condescension, did all she could, and not unsuccessfully, +to please even an upper gallery critic. + +The persons near me, in the pit, were often extravagantly lavish of +their applause. They sometimes clapped a single solitary sentiment, +that was almost as unmeaning as it was short, if it happened to be +pronounced only with some little emphasis, or to contain some little +point, some popular doctrine, a singularly pathetic stroke, or turn +of wit. + +"The Agreeable Surprise" was repeated, and I saw it a second time +with unabated pleasure. It is become a favourite piece, and always +announced with the addition of the favourite musical farce. The +theatre appeared to me somewhat larger than the one at Hamburg, and +the house was both times very full. Thus much for English plays, +play-houses, and players. + +English Customs and Education. + +A few words more respecting pedantry. I have seen the regulation of +one seminary of learning, here called an academy. Of these places +of education, there is a prodigious number in London, though, +notwithstanding their pompous names, they are in reality nothing +more than small schools set up by private persons, for children and +young people. + +One of the Englishmen who were my travelling companions, made me +acquainted with a Dr. G-- who lives near P--, and keeps an academy +for the education of twelve young people, which number is here, as +well as at our Mr. Kumpe's, never exceeded, and the same plan has +been adopted and followed by many others, both here and elsewhere. + +At the entrance I perceived over the door of the house a large +board, and written on it, Dr. G--'s Academy. Dr. G-- received me +with great courtesy as a foreigner, and shewed me his school-room, +which was furnished just in the same manner as the classes in our +public schools are, with benches and a professor's chair or pulpit. + +The usher at Dr. G--'s is a young clergyman, who, seated also in a +chair or desk, instructs the boys in the Greek and Latin grammars. + +Such an under-teacher is called an usher, and by what I can learn, +is commonly a tormented being, exactly answering the exquisite +description given of him in the "Vicar of Wakefield." We went in +during the hours of attendance, and he was just hearing the boys +decline their Latin, which he did in the old jog-trot way; and I own +it had an odd sound to my ears, when instead of pronouncing, for +example viri veeree I heard them say viri, of the man, exactly +according to the English pronunciation, and viro, to the man. The +case was just the same afterwards with the Greek. + +Mr. G-- invited us to dinner, when I became acquainted with his +wife, a very genteel young woman, whose behaviour to the children +was such that she might be said to contribute more to their +education than any one else. The children drank nothing but water. +For every boarder Dr. G-- receives yearly no more than thirty pounds +sterling, which however, he complained of as being too little. From +forty to fifty pounds is the most that is generally paid in these +academies. + +I told him of our improvements in the manner of education, and also +spoke to him of the apparent great worth of character of his usher. +He listened very attentively, but seemed to have thought little +himself on this subject. Before and after dinner the Lord's Prayer +was repeated in French, which is done in several places, as if they +were eager not to waste without some improvement, even this +opportunity also, to practise the French, and thus at once +accomplish two points. I afterwards told him my opinion of this +species of prayer, which however, he did not take amiss. + +After dinner the boys had leave to play in a very small yard, which +in most schools or academies, in the city of London, is the ne plus +ultra of their playground in their hours of recreation. But Mr. G-- +has another garden at the end of the town, where he sometimes takes +them to walk. + +After dinner Mr. G-- himself instructed the children in writing, +arithmetic, and French, all which seemed to be well taught here, +especially writing, in which the young people in England far +surpass, I believe, all others. This may perhaps be owing to their +having occasion to learn only one sort of letters. As the midsummer +holidays were now approaching (at which time the children in all the +academies go home for four weeks), everyone was obliged with the +utmost care to copy a written model, in order to show it to their +parents, because this article is most particularly examined, as +everybody can tell what is or is not good writing. The boys knew +all the rules of syntax by heart. + +All these academies are in general called boarding-schools. Some +few retain the old name of schools only, though it is possible that +in real merit they may excel the so much-boasted of academies. + +It is in general the clergy, who have small incomes, who set up +these schools both in town and country, and grown up people who are +foreigners, are also admitted here to learn the English language. +Mr. G-- charged for board, lodging, and instruction in the English, +two guineas a-week. He however, who is desirous of perfecting +himself in the English, will do better to go some distance into the +country, and board himself with any clergyman who takes scholars, +where he will hear nothing but English spoken, and may at every +opportunity be taught both by young and old. + +There are in England, besides the two universities, but few great +schools or colleges. In London, there are only St. Paul's and +Westminster schools; the rest are almost all private institutions, +in which there reigns a kind of family education, which is certainly +the most natural, if properly conducted. Some few grammar schools, +or Latin schools, are notwithstanding here and there to be met with, +where the master receives a fixed salary, besides the ordinary +profits of the school paid by the scholars. + +You see in the streets of London, great and little boys running +about in long blue coats, which, like robes, reach quite down to the +feet, and little white bands, such as the clergy wear. These belong +to a charitable institution, or school, which hears the name of the +Blue Coat School. The singing of the choristers in the streets, so +usual with us, is not at all customary here. Indeed, there is in +England, or at least in London, such a constant walking, riding, and +driving up and down in the streets, that it would not be very +practicable. Parents here in general, nay even those of the lowest +classes, seem to be kind and indulgent to their children, and do +not, like our common people, break their spirits too much by blows +and sharp language. Children should certainly be inured early to +set a proper value on themselves; whereas with us, parents of the +lower class bring up their children to the same slavery under which +they themselves groan. + +Notwithstanding the constant new appetites and calls of fashion, +they here remain faithful to nature--till a certain age. What a +contrast, when I figure to myself our petted, pale-faced Berlin +boys, at six years old, with a large bag, and all the parade of +grown-up persons, nay even with laced coats; and here, on the +contrary see nothing but fine, ruddy, slim, active boys, with their +bosoms open, and their hair cut on their forehead, whilst behind it +flows naturally in ringlets. It is something uncommon here to meet +a young man, and more especially a boy, with a pale or sallow face, +with deformed features, or disproportioned limbs. With us, alas! it +is not to be concealed, the case is very much otherwise; if it were +not, handsome people would hardly strike us so very much as they do +in this country. + +This free, loose, and natural dress is worn till they are eighteen, +or even till they are twenty. It is then, indeed, discontinued by +the higher ranks, but with the common people it always remains the +same. They then begin to have their hair dressed, and curled with +irons, to give the head a large bushy appearance, and half their +backs are covered with powder. I am obliged to remain still longer +under the hands of an English, than I was under a German hair- +dresser; and to sweat under his hot irons with which he curls my +hair all over, in order that I may appear among Englishmen, somewhat +English. I must here observe that the English hair-dressers are +also barbers, an office however, which they perform very badly +indeed; though I cannot but consider shaving as a far more proper +employment for these petit maitres than it is for surgeons, who you +know in our country are obliged to shave us. It is incredible how +much the English at present Frenchify themselves; the only things +yet wanting are bags and swords, with which at least I have seen no +one walking publicly, but I am told they are worn at court. + +In the morning it is usual to walk out in a sort of negligee or +morning dress, your hair not dressed, but merely rolled up in +rollers, and in a frock and boots. In Westminster, the morning +lasts till four or five o'clock, at which time they dine, and supper +and going to bed are regulated accordingly. They generally do not +breakfast till ten o'clock. The farther you go from the court into +the city, the more regular and domestic the people become; and there +they generally dine about three o'clock, i.e. as soon as the +business or 'Change is over. + +Trimmed suits are not yet worn, and the most usual dress is in +summer, a short white waistcoat, black breeches, white silk +stockings, and a frock, generally of very dark blue cloth, which +looks like black; and the English seem in general to prefer dark +colours. If you wish to be full dressed, you wear black. Officers +rarely wear their uniforms, but dress like other people, and are to +be known to be officers only by a cockade in their hats. + +It is a common observation, that the more solicitous any people are +about dress, the more effeminate they are. I attribute it entirely +to this idle adventitious passion for finery, that these people are +become so over and above careful of their persons; they are for +ever, and on every occasion, putting one another on their guard +against catching cold; "you'll certainly catch cold," they always +tell you if you happen to be a little exposed to the draught of the +air, or if you be not clad, as they think, sufficiently warm. The +general topic of conversation in summer, is on the important objects +of whether such and such an acquaintance be in town, or such a one +in the country. Far from blaming it, I think it natural and +commendable, that nearly one half of the inhabitants of this great +city migrate into the country in summer. And into the country, I +too, though not a Londoner, hope soon to wander. + +Electricity happens at present to be the puppet-show of the English. +Whoever at all understands electricity is sure of being noticed and +successful. This a certain Mr. Katterfelto experiences, who gives +himself out for a Prussian, speaks bad English, and understands +beside the usual electrical and philosophical experiments, some +legerdemain tricks, with which (at least according to the papers) he +sets the whole world in wonder. For in almost every newspaper that +appears, there are some verses on the great Katterfelto, which some +one or other of his hearers are said to have made extempore. Every +sensible person considers Katterfelto as a puppy, an ignoramus, a +braggadocio, and an impostor; notwithstanding which he has a number +of followers. He has demonstrated to the people, that the influenza +is occasioned by a small kind of insect, which poisons the air; and +a nostrum, which he pretends to have found out to prevent or destroy +it, is eagerly bought of him. A few days ago he put into the +papers: "It is true that Mr. Katterfelto has always wished for cold +and rainy weather, in order to destroy the pernicious insects in the +air; but now, on the contrary, he wishes for nothing more than for +fair weather, as his majesty and the whole royal family have +determined, the first fine day, to be eye-witnesses of the great +wonder, which this learned philosopher will render visible to them." +Yet all this while the royal family have not so much as even thought +of seeing the wonders of Mr. Katterfelto. This kind of rhodomontade +is very finely expressed in English by the word puff, which in its +literal sense, signifies a blowing, or violent gust of wind, and in +the metaphorical sense, a boasting or bragging. + +Of such puffs the English newspapers are daily full, particularly of +quack medicines and empirics, by means of which many a one here (and +among others a German who goes by the name of the German doctor) are +become rich. An advertisement of a lottery in the papers begins +with capitals in this manner,--"Ten Thousand Pounds for a Sixpence! +Yes, however astonishing it may seem, it is nevertheless undoubtedly +true, that for the small stake of sixpence, ten thousand pounds, and +other capital prizes, may be won, etc."--But enough for this time of +the puffs of the English. + +I yesterday dined with the Rev. Mr. Schrader, son-in-law to +Professor Foster of Halle. He is chaplain to the German chapel at +St. James's; but besides himself he has a colleague or a reader, who +is also in orders, but has only fifty pounds yearly salary. Mr. +Schrader also instructs the younger princes and princesses of the +royal family in their religion. At his house I saw the two +chaplains, Mr. Lindeman and Mr. Kritter, who went with the +Hanoverian troops to Minorca, and who were returned with the +garrison. They were exposed to every danger along with the troops. +The German clergy, as well as every other person in any public +station immediately under Government, are obliged to pay a +considerable tax out of their salaries. + +The English clergy (and I fear those still more particularly who +live in London) are noticeable, and lamentably conspicuous, by a +very free, secular, and irregular way of life. Since my residence +in England, one has fought a duel in Hyde Park, and shot has +antagonist. He was tried for the offence, and it was evident the +judge thought him guilty of murder; but the jury declared him guilty +only of manslaughter; and on this verdict he was burnt in the hand, +if that may be called burning which is done with a cold iron; this +being a privilege which the nobility and clergy enjoy above other +murderers. + +Yesterday week, after I had preached for Mr. Wendeborne, we passed +an English church in which, we understood the sermon was not yet +quite finished. On this we went in, and then I heard a young man +preaching, with a tolerable good voice, and a proper delivery; but, +like the English in general, his manner was unimpassioned, and his +tone monotonous. From the church we went to a coffee-house opposite +to it, and there we dined. We had not been long there before the +same clergyman whom we had just heard preaching, also came in. He +called for pen and ink, and hastily wrote down a few pages on a long +sheet of paper, which he put into his pocket; I suppose it was some +rough sketch or memorandum that occurred to him at that moment, and +which he thus reserved for some future sermon. He too ordered some +dinner, which he had no sooner ate, than he returned immediately to +the same church. We followed him, and he again mounted the pulpit, +where he drew from his pocket a written paper, or book of notes, and +delivered in all probability those very words which he had just +before composed in our presence at the coffee-house. + +In these coffee-houses, however, there generally prevails a very +decorous stillness and silence. Everyone speaks softly to those +only who sit next him. The greater part read the newspapers, and no +one ever disturbs another. The room is commonly on the ground +floor, and you enter it immediately from the street; the seats are +divided by wooden wainscot partitions. Many letters and projects +are here written and planned, and many of those that you find in the +papers are dated from some of these coffee-houses. There is, +therefore, nothing incredible, nor very extraordinary, in a person's +composing a sermon here, excepting that one would imagine it might +have been done better at home, and certainly should not have thus +been put off to the last minute. + +Another long walk that I have taken pretty often, is through Hanover +Square and Cavendish Square, to Bulstrode Street, near Paddington, +where the Danish ambassador lives, and where I have often visited +the Danish Charge d'Affaires, M. Schornborn. He is well known in +Germany, as having attempted to translate Pindar into German. +Besides this, and besides being known to be a man of genius, he is +known to be a great proficient in most of the branches of natural +philosophy. I have spent many very pleasant hours with him. + +Sublime poetry, and in particular odes, are his forte; there are +indeed few departments of learning in which he has not extensive +knowledge, and he is also well read in the Greek and Roman authors. +Everything he studies, he studies merely from the love he bears to +the science itself, and by no means for the love of fame. + +One could hardly help saying it is a pity that so excellent a man +should be so little known, were it not generally the case with men +of transcendent merit. But what makes him still more valuable is +his pure and open soul, and his amiable unaffected simplicity of +character, which has gained him the love and confidence of all who +know him. He has heretofore been secretary to the ambassador at +Algiers; and even here in London, when he is not occupied by the +business arising from his public station, he lives exceedingly +retired, and devotes his time almost entirely to the study of the +sciences. The more agreeable I find such an acquaintance, the +harder it will be for me to lose, as I soon must, his learned, his +instructive, and his friendly conversation. + +I have seen the large Freemasons' Hall here, at the tavern of the +same name. This hall is of an astonishing height and breadth, and +to me it looked almost like a church. The orchestra is very much +raised, and from that you have a fine view of the whole hall, which +makes a majestic appearance. The building is said to have cost an +immense sum. But to that the lodges in Germany also contributed. +Freemasonry seems to be held in but little estimation in England, +perhaps because most of the lodges are now degenerated into mere +drinking clubs; though I hope there still are some who assemble for +nobler and more essential purposes. The Duke of Cumberland is now +grand master. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +London, 20th June, 1782. + +At length my determination of going into the country takes effect; +and I am to set off this very afternoon in a stage; so that I now +write to you my last letter from London, I mean till I return from +my pilgrimage, for as soon as ever I have got beyond the dangerous +neighbourhood of London, I shall certainly no longer suffer myself +to be cooped up in a post-coach, but take my staff and pursue my +journey on foot. In the meantime, however, I will relate to you +what I may either have forgotten to write before, or what I have +seen worth notice within these few days last past; among which the +foremost is + +St. Paul's. + +I must own that on my entrance into this massy building, an uncommon +vacancy, which seemed to reign in it, rather damped than raised an +impression of anything majestic in me. All around me I could see +nothing but immense bare walls and pillars. Above me, at an +astonishing height, was the vaulted stone roof; and beneath me a +plain, flat even floor, paved with marble. No altar was to be seen, +or any other sign that this was a place where mankind assembled to +adore the Almighty. For the church itself, or properly that part of +it where they perform divine service, seems as it were a piece stuck +on or added to the main edifice, and is separated from the large +round empty space by an iron gate, or door. Did the great +architects who adopted this style of building mean by this to say +that such a temple is most proper for the adoration of the Almighty? +If this was their aim, I can only say I admire the great temple of +nature, the azure vaulted sky, and the green carpet with which the +earth is spread. This is truly a large temple; but then there is in +it no void, no spot unappropriated, or unfulfilled, but everywhere +proofs in abundance of the presence of the Almighty. If, however, +mankind, in their honest ambition to worship the great God of +nature, in a style not wholly unsuitable to the great object of +their reverence, and in their humble efforts at magnificence, aim in +some degree to rival the magnificence of nature, particular pains +should be taken to hit on something that might atone for the +unavoidable loss of the animation and ampleness of nature; something +in short that should clearly indicate the true and appropriated +design and purpose of such a building. If, on the other hand, I +could be contented to consider St. Paul's merely as a work of art, +built as if merely to show the amazing extent of human powers, I +should certainly gaze at it with admiration and astonishment, but +then I wish rather to contemplate it with awe and veneration. But, +I perceive, I am wandering out of my way. St. Paul's is here, as it +is, a noble pile, and not unworthy of this great nation. And even +if I were sure that I could, you would hardly thank me for showing +you how it might have been still more worthy of this intelligent +people. I make a conscience however of telling you always, with +fidelity, what impression everything I see or hear makes on me at +the time. For a small sum of money I was conducted all over the +church by a man whose office it seemed to be, and he repeated to me, +I dare say, exactly his lesson, which no doubt he has perfectly got +by rote: of how many feet long and broad it was; how many years it +was in building, and in what year built. Much of this rigmarole +story, which, like a parrot, he repeated mechanically, I could +willingly have dispensed with. In the part that was separated from +the rest by the iron gate above mentioned, was what I call the +church itself; furnished with benches, pews, pulpit, and an altar; +and on each side seats for the choristers, as there are in our +cathedrals. This church seemed to have been built purposely in such +a way, that the bishop, or dean, or dignitary, who should preach +there, might not be obliged to strain his voice too much. I was now +conducted to that part which is called the whispering gallery, which +is a circumference of prodigious extent, just below the cupola. +Here I was directed to place myself in a part of it directly +opposite to my conductor, on the other side of the gallery, so that +we had the whole breadth of the church between us, and here as I +stood, he, knowing his cue no doubt, flung to the door with all his +force, which gave a sound that I could compare to nothing less than +a peal of thunder. I was next desired to apply my ear to the wall, +which, when I did, I heard the words of my conductor: "Can you hear +me?" which he softly whispered quite on the other side, as plain and +as loud as one commonly speaks to a deaf person. This scheme to +condense and invigorate sound at so great a distance is really +wonderful. I once noticed some sound of the same sort in the +senatorial cellar at Bremen; but neither that, nor I believe any +other in the world, can pretend to come in competition with this. + +I now ascended several steps to the great gallery, which runs on the +outside of the great dome, and here I remained nearly two hours, as +I could hardly, in less time, satisfy myself with the prospect of +the various interesting objects that lay all round me, and which can +no where be better seen, than from hence. + +Every view, and every object I studied attentively, by viewing them +again and again on every side, for I was anxious to make a lasting +impression of it on my imagination. + +Below me lay steeples, houses, and palaces in countless numbers; the +squares with their grass plots in their middle that lay agreeably +dispersed and intermixed, with all the huge clusters of buildings, +forming meanwhile a pleasing contrast, and a relief to the jaded +eye. + +At one end rose the Tower--itself a city--with a wood of masts +behind it; and at the other Westminster Abbey with its steeples. +There I beheld, clad in smiles, those beautiful green hills that +skirt the environs of Paddington and Islington; here, on the +opposite bank of the Thames, lay Southwark; the city itself it seems +to be impossible for any eye to take in entirely, for with all my +pains I found it impossible to ascertain either where it ended, or +where the circumjacent villages began; far as the eye could reach, +it seemed to be all one continued chain of buildings. + +I well remember how large I thought Berlin when first I saw it from +the steeple of St. Mary, and from the Temple Yard Hills, but how did +it now sink and fall in my imagination, when I compared it with +London! + +It is, however, idle and vain to attempt giving you in words, any +description, however faint and imperfect, of such a prospect as I +have just been viewing. He who wishes at one view to see a world in +miniature, must come to the dome of St Paul's. + +The roof of St. Paul's itself with its two lesser steeples lay below +me, and as I fancied, looked something like the background of a +small ridge of hills, which you look down upon when you have +attained the summit of some huge rock or mountain. I should gladly +have remained here sometime longer, but a gust of wind, which in +this situation was so powerful that it was hardly possible to +withstand it, drove me down. + +Notwithstanding that St. Paul's is itself very high, the elevation +of the ground on which it stands contributes greatly to its +elevation. + +The church of St. Peter at Berlin, notwithstanding the total +difference between them in the style of building, appears in some +respects to have a great resemblance to St. Paul's in London. At +least its large high black roof rises above the other surrounding +buildings just as St. Paul's does. + +What else I saw in this stately cathedral was only a wooden model of +this very edifice, which was made before the church was built, and +which suggests some not unpleasing reflections when one compares it +with the enormous building itself. + +The churchyard is enclosed with an iron rail, and it appears a +considerable distance if you go all round. + +Owing to some cause or other, the site of St. Paul's strikes you as +being confined, and it is certain that this beautiful church is on +every side closely surrounded by houses. + +A marble statue of Queen Anne in an enclosed piece of ground in the +west front of the church is something of an ornament to that side. + +The size of the bell of St. Paul's is also worthy of notice, as it +is reckoned one of those that are deemed the largest in Europe. It +takes its place, they say, next to that at Vienna. + +Everything that I saw in St. Paul's cost me only a little more than +a shilling, which I paid in pence and halfpence, according to a +regulated price, fixed for every different curiosity. + +Westminster Abbey. + +On a very gloomy dismal day, just such a one as it ought to be, I +went to see Westminster Abbey. + +I entered at a small door, which brought me immediately to the +poets' corner, where the monuments and busts of the principal poets, +artists, generals, and great men, are placed. + +Not far from the door, immediately on my entrance, I perceived the +statue of Shakespeare, as large as life; with a band, &c., in the +dress usual in his time. + +A passage out of one of Shakespeare's own plays (the Tempest), in +which he describes in the most solemn and affecting manner, the end, +or the dissolution of all things, is here, with great propriety, put +up as his epitaph; as though none but Shakespeare could do justice +to Shakespeare. + +Not far from this immortal bard is Rowe's monument, which, as it is +intimated in the few lines that are inscribed as his epitaph, he +himself had desired to be placed there. + +At no great distance I saw the bust of that amiable writer, +Goldsmith: to whom, as well as to Butler, whose monument is in a +distant part of the abbey, though they had scarcely necessary bread +to eat during their life time, handsome monuments are now raised. +Here, too you see, almost in a row, the monuments of Milton, Dryden, +Gay, and Thomson. The inscription on Gay's tombstone is, if not +actually immoral, yet futile and weak; though he is said to have +written it himself: + + +"Life is a jest, and all things shew it, +'I thought so once but now I know it." + + +Our Handel has also a monument here, where he is represented as +large as life. + +An actress, Pritchard, and Booth, an actor, have also very +distinguished monuments erected here to their memories. + +For Newton, as was proper, there is a very costly one. It is above, +at the entrance of the choir, and exactly opposite to this, at the +end of the church, another is erected, which refers you to the +former. + +As I passed along the side walls of Westminster Abbey, I hardly saw +any thing but marble monuments of great admirals, but which were all +too much loaded with finery and ornaments, to make on me at least, +the intended impression. + +I always returned with most pleasure to the poets' corner, where the +most sensible, most able, and most learned men, of the different +ages, were re-assembled; and particularly where the elegant +simplicity of the monuments made an elevated and affecting +impression on the mind, while a perfect recollection of some +favourite passage, of a Shakespeare, or Milton, recurred to my idea, +and seemed for a moment to re-animate and bring back the spirits of +those truly great men. + +Of Addison and Pope I have found no monuments here. The vaults +where the kings are buried, and some other things worth notice in +the abbey, I have not yet seen; but perhaps I may at my return to +London from the country. + +I have made every necessary preparation for this journey: In the +first place, I have an accurate map of England in my pocket; besides +an excellent book of the roads, which Mr. Pointer, the English +merchant to whom I am recommended, has lent me. The title is "A new +and accurate description of all the direct and principal cross roads +in Great Britain." This book, I hope, will be of great service to +me in my ramblings. + +I was for a long time undecided which way I should go, whether to +the Isle of Wight, to Portsmouth, or to Derbyshire, which is famous +for its natural curiosities, and also for its romantic situation. +At length I have determined on Derbyshire. + +During my absence I leave my trunk at Mr. Mulhausen's (one of Mr. +Pointer's senior partners), that I may not be at the needless +expense of paying for my lodging without making use of it. This Mr. +Pointer lived long in Germany, and is politely partial to us and our +language, and speaks it well. He is a well-bred and singularly +obliging man; and one who possesses a vast fund of information, and +a good taste. I cannot but feel myself happy in having obtained a +recommendation to so accomplished a man. I got it from Messrs. +Persent and Dorner, to whom I had the honour to be recommended by +Mr. Von Taubenheim, Privy Counsellor at Berlin. These +recommendations have been of infinite use to me. + +I propose to go to-day as far as Richmond; for which place a stage +sets out about two o'clock from some inn, not far from the new +church in the Strand. Four guineas, some linen, my English book of +the roads, and a map and pocket-book, together with Milton's +Paradise Lost, which I must put in my pocket, compose the whole of +my equipage; and I hope to walk very lightly with it. But it now +strikes half-past one, and of course it is time for me to be at the +stage. Farewell! I will write to you again from Richmond. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +Richmond, 21st June, 1782. + +Yesterday afternoon I had the luxury for the first time of being +driven in an English stage. These coaches are, at least in the eyes +of a foreigner, quite elegant, lined in the inside; and with two +seats large enough to accommodate six persons; but it must be owned, +when the carriage is full, the company are rather crowded. + +At the White Hart from whence the coach sets out, there was, at +first only an elderly lady who got in; but as we drove along, it was +soon filled, and mostly by ladies, there being only one more +gentleman and myself. The conversation of the ladies among +themselves, who appeared to be a little acquainted with each other, +seemed to me to be but very insipid and tiresome. All I could do +was, I drew out my book of the roads, and marked the way we were +going. + +Before you well know that you are out of London you are already in +Kensington and Hammersmith; because there are all the way houses on +both sides, after you are out of the city; just as you may remember +the case is with us when you drive from Berlin to Schoneberg; +although in point of prospect, houses and streets, the difference, +no doubt, is prodigious. + +It was a fine day, and there were various delightful prospects on +both sides, on which the eye would willingly have dwelt longer, had +not our coach rolled on past them, so provokingly quick. It +appeared somewhat singular to me, when at a few miles from London, I +saw at a distance a beautiful white house; and perceived on the high +road, on which we were driving, a direction post, on which were +written these words: "that great white house at a distance is a +boarding-school!" + +The man who was with us in the coach pointed out to us the country +seats of the lords and great people by which we passed; and +entertained us with all kind of stories of robberies which had been +committed on travellers, hereabouts; so that the ladies at last +began to be rather afraid; on which he began to stand up for the +superior honour of the English robbers, when compared with the +French: the former he said robbed only, the latter both robbed and +murdered. + +Notwithstanding this there are in England another species of +villains, who also murder, and that oftentimes for the merest +trifle, of which they rob the person murdered. These are called +footpads, and are the lowest class of English rogues; amongst whom +in general there reigns something like some regard to character. + +The highest order of thieves are the pickpockets or cutpurses, whom +you find everywhere; and sometimes even in the best companies. They +are generally well and handsomely dressed, so that you take them to +be persons of rank; as indeed may sometimes be the case: persons +who by extravagance and excesses have reduced themselves to want, +and find themselves obliged at last to have recourse to pilfering +and thieving. + +Next to them come the highwaymen, who rob on horseback; and often, +they say, even with unloaded pistols, they terrify travellers, in +order to put themselves in possession of their purses. Among these +persons, however, there are instances of true greatness of soul, +there are numberless instances of their returning a part of their +booty, where the party robbed has appeared to be particularly +distressed; and they are seldom guilty of murder. + +Then comes the third and lowest, and worst of all thieves and +rogues, the footpads before mentioned; who are on foot, and often +murder in the most inhuman manner, for the sake of only a few +shillings, any unfortunate people who happen to fall in their way. +Of this several mournful instances may be read almost daily in the +English papers. Probably they murder, because they cannot like +highwaymen, aided by their horses, make a rapid flight: and +therefore such pests are frequently pretty easily pursued and taken +if the person robbed gives information of his robbery in time. + +But to return to our stage, I must observe, that they have here a +curious way of riding, not in, but upon a stage-coach. Persons to +whom it is not convenient to pay a full price, instead of the +inside, sit on the top of the coach, without any seats or even a +rail. By what means passengers thus fasten themselves securely on +the roof of these vehicles, I know not; but you constantly see +numbers seated there, apparently at their ease, and in perfect +safety. + +This they call riding on the outside; for which they pay only half +as much as those pay who are within: we had at present six of these +passengers over our heads, who, when we alighted, frequently made +such a noise and bustle, as sometimes almost frightened us. He who +can properly balance himself, rides not incommodiously on the +outside; and in summer time, in fine weather, on account of the +prospects, it certainly is more pleasant than it is within: +excepting that the company is generally low, and the dust is +likewise more troublesome than in the inside, where, at any rate, +you may draw up the windows according to your pleasure. + +In Kensington, where we stopped, a Jew applied for a place along +with us; but as there was no seat vacant in the inside, he would not +ride on the outside, which seemed not quite to please my travelling +companions. They could not help thinking it somewhat preposterous +that a Jew should be ashamed to ride on the outside, or on any side, +and in any way; since as they added, he was nothing more than a Jew. +This antipathy and prejudice against the Jews, I have noticed to be +far more common here, than it is even with us, who certainly are not +partial to them. + +Of the beautiful country seats and villas which we now passed, I +could only through the windows of our coach gain a partial and +indistinct prospect, which led me to wish, as I soon most earnestly +did, to be released from this movable prison. Towards evening we +arrived at Richmond. In London, before I set out, I had paid one +shilling; another was now demanded, so that upon the whole, from +London to Richmond, the passage in the stage costs just two +shillings. + +As soon as I had alighted at an inn and had drunk my tea, I went out +immediately to see the town and the circumjacent country. + +Even this town, though hardly out of sight of London, is more +countrified, pleasanter, and more cheerful than London, and the +houses do not seem to be so much blackened by smoke. The people +also appeared to me here more sociable and more hospitable. I saw +several sitting on benches before their doors, to enjoy the cool +breeze of the evening. On a large green area in the middle of the +town, a number of boys, and even young men, were enjoying +themselves, and playing at trap-ball. In the streets there reigned +here, compared to London, a pleasing rural tranquillity, and I +breathed a purer and fresher air. + +I went now out of the town over a bridge, which lies across the +Thames, and where you pay a penny as often as you pass over it. The +bridge is lofty and built in the form of an arch, and from it you +enter immediately into a most charming valley, that winds all along +the banks of the Thames. + +It was evening. The sun was just shedding her last parting rays on +the valley; but such an evening, and such a valley! Oh, it is +impossible I should ever forget them. The terrace at Richmond does +assuredly afford one of the finest prospects in the world. Whatever +is charming in nature, or pleasing in art, is to be seen here. +Nothing I had ever seen, or ever can see elsewhere, is to be +compared to it. My feelings, during the few short enraptured +minutes that I stood there, it is impossible for any pen to +describe. + +One of my first sensations was chagrin and sorrow for the days and +hours I had wasted in London, and I had vented a thousand bitter +reproaches on my irresolution, that I had not long ago quitted that +huge dungeon to come here and pass my time in paradise. + +Yes, my friend, whatever be your ideas of paradise, and how +luxuriantly soever it may be depicted to your imagination, I venture +to foretell that here you will be sure to find all those ideas +realised. In every point of view, Richmond is assuredly one of the +first situations in the world. Here it was that Thomson and Pope +gleaned from nature all those beautiful passages with which their +inimitable writings abound. + +Instead of the incessant distressing noise in London, I saw here at +a distance, sundry little family parties walking arm in arm along +the banks of the Thames. Everything breathed a soft and pleasing +calm, which warmed my heart and filed it with some of the most +pleasing sensations of which our nature is susceptible. + +Beneath I trod on that fresh, even, and soft verdure which is to be +seen only in England. On one side of me lay a wood, than which +nature cannot produce a finer, and on the other the Thames, with its +shelvy bank and charming lawns rising like an amphitheatre, along +which, here and there, one espies a picturesque white house, +aspiring in majestic simplicity to pierce the dark foliage of the +surrounding trees; thus studding, like stars in the galaxy, the rich +expanse of this charming vale. + +Sweet Richmond! never, no, never, shall I forget that lovely +evening, when from thy fairy hills thou didst so hospitably smile on +me, a poor lonely, insignificant stranger! As I traversed to and +fro thy meads, thy little swelling hills and flowery dells, and +above all that queen of all rivers, thy own majestic Thames, I +forgot all sublunary cares, and thought only of heaven and heavenly +things. Happy, thrice happy am I, I again and again exclaimed, that +I am no longer in yon gloomy city, but here in Elysium, in Richmond. + +O ye copsy hills, ye green meadows, and ye rich streams in this +blessed country, how have ye enchanted me? Still, however, let me +recollect and resolve, as I firmly do, that even ye shall not +prevent my return to those barren and dusty lands where my, perhaps +a less indulgent, destiny has placed me, and where, in the due +discharge of all the arduous and important duties of that humble +function to which providence has called me, I must and I will +faithfully exert my best talents, and in that exertion find +pleasure, and I trust, happiness. In every future moment of my +life, however, the recollection of this scene, and the feelings it +inspired, shall cheer my labours and invigorate my efforts. + +These were some of my reflections, my dearest friend, during my +solitary walk. Of the evening I passed at Richmond, I speak feebly +when I content myself with saying only, it was one of the +pleasantest I ever spent in my life. + +I now resolved to go to bed early, with a firm purpose of also +rising early the next day to revisit this charming walk; for I +thought to myself, I have now seen this temple of the modern world +imperfectly; I have seen it only by moonlight. How much more +charming must it be when glistening with the morning dew! These +fond hopes, alas, were all disappointed. In all great schemes of +enjoyment, it is, I believe, no bad way always to figure to yourself +some possible evil that may arise, and to anticipate a +disappointment. If I had done so, I should not perhaps have felt +the mortification I then experienced quite so pungent. By some +means or other I stayed too long out, and so when I returned to +Richmond, I had forgot the name and the sign of the inn where I had +before stopped; it cost me no little trouble to find it again. + +When at last I got back, I told the people what a sweet walk I had +had, and they then spoke much of a prospect from a neighbouring +hill, known by the name of Richmond Hill, which was the very same +hill from the top of which I had just been gazing at the houses in +the vale, the preceding evening. From this same kill, therefore, I +resolved the next morning to see the sun rise. + +The landlady of this house was a notable one, and talked so much and +so loud to her servants, that I could not get to sleep till it was +pretty late. However, I was up next morning at three o'clock, and +was now particularly sensible of the great inconveniences they +sustain in England by their bad custom of rising so late, for as I +was the only one in this family who was up, I could not get out of +the house. This obliged me to spend three most irksome and heavy +hours till six o'clock; however, a servant at length opened the +door, and I rushed out to climb Richmond Hill. To my infinite +disappointment, within the space of an hour, the sky had become +overcast, and it was now so cloudy that I could not even see, nor of +course enjoy one half of the delightful prospect that lay before me. + +On the top of this hill is an alley of chestnut trees, under which +here and there seats are placed. Behind the alley is a row of well- +built gentlemen's country seats. One does not wonder to see it thus +occupied; besides the pure air, the prospect exceeds everything else +of the kind in the world. I never saw a palace which, if I were the +owner of it, I would not give for any of the houses I now saw on +Richmond Terrace. + +The descent of the hill to the Thames is covered with verdure, the +Thames at the foot of it forms near a semicircle, in which it seems +to embrace woody plains, with meadows and country seats in its +bosom. On one side you see the town and its magnificent bridge, and +on the other a dark wood. + +At a distance you could perceive, peeping out among the meadows and +woods, sundry small villages, so that notwithstanding the dulness of +the weather, this prospect even now was one of the finest I had ever +seen. But what is the reason that yesterday evening my feelings +were far more acute and lively, the impressions made on me much +stronger, when from the vale I viewed the hill and fancied that +there was in it every thing that was delightful, than they are this +morning, when from the hill I overlooked the vale and knew pretty +exactly what it contained? + +I have now finished my breakfast, and once more seize my staff, the +only companion I have, and now again set out on this romantic +journey on foot. From Windsor you shall hear more of me. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + +Windsor, 23rd June. + +I have already, my dearest friend, now that I write to you from +hence, experienced so many inconveniences as a traveller on foot, +that I am at some loss to determine whether or no I shall go on with +my journey in the same manner. + +A traveller on foot in this country seems to be considered as a sort +of wild man or out-of-the way being, who is stared at, pitied, +suspected, and shunned by everybody that meets him. At least this +has hitherto been my case on the road from Richmond to Windsor. + +My host at Richmond, yesterday morning, could not sufficiently +express his surprise that I intended to venture to walk as far as +Oxford, and still farther. He however was so kind as to send his +son, a clever little boy, to show me the road leading to Windsor. + +At first I walked along a very pleasant footway by the side of the +Thames, where close to my right lay the king's garden. On the +opposite bank of the Thames was Isleworth, a spot that seemed to be +distinguished by some elegant gentlemen's country-seats and gardens. +Here I was obliged to ferry the river in order to get into the +Oxford Road, which also leads to Windsor. + +When I was on the other side of the water, I came to a house and +asked a man who was standing at the door if I was on the right road +to Oxford. "Yes," said he, "but you want a carriage to carry you +thither." When I answered him that I intended walking it, he looked +at me significantly, shook his head, and went into the house again. + +I was now on the road to Oxford. It is a charming fine broad road, +and I met on it carriages without number, which, however, on account +of the heat, occasioned a dust that was extremely troublesome and +disagreeable. The fine green hedges, which border the roads in +England, contribute greatly to render them pleasant. This was the +case in the road I now travelled, for when I was tired I sat down in +the shade under one of these hedges and read Milton. But this +relief was soon rendered disagreeable to me, for those who rode or +drove past me, stared at me with astonishment, and made many +significant gestures as if they thought my head deranged; so +singular must it needs have appeared to them to see a man sitting +along the side of a public road and reading. I therefore found +myself obliged, when I wished to rest myself and read, to look out +for a retired spot in some by-lane or crossroad. + +When I again walked, many of the coachmen who drove by called out to +me, ever and anon, and asked if I would not ride on the outside; and +when, every now and then, a farmer on horseback met me, he said, and +seemingly with an air of pity for me, "'Tis warm walking, sir;" and +when I passed through a village, every old woman testified her pity +by an exclamation of--"Good God!" + +As far as Hounslow the way was very pleasant; afterwards I thought +it not quite so good. It lay across a common, which was of a +considerable extent, and bare and naked, excepting that here and +there I saw sheep feeding. + +I now began to be very tired, when, to my astonishment, I saw a tree +in the middle of the common that stood quite solitary, and spread a +shade like an arbour round it. At the bottom, round the trunk, a +bench was placed, on which one may sit down. Beneath the shade of +this tree I reposed myself a little, read some of Milton, and made a +note in my memorandum-book that I would remember this tree, which +had so charitably and hospitably received under its shade a weary +traveller. This, you see, I have now done. + +The short English miles are delightful for walking. You are always +pleased to find, every now and then, in how short a time you have +walked a mile, though, no doubt, a mile is everywhere a mile, I walk +but a moderate pace, and can accomplish four English miles in an +hour. It used to take me pretty nearly the same time for one German +mile. Now it is a pleasing exchange to find that in two hours I can +walk eight miles. And now I fancy I was about seventeen miles from +London, when I came to an inn, where, for a little wine and water, I +was obliged to pay sixpence. An Englishman who happened to be +sitting by the side of the innkeeper found out that I was a German, +and, of course, from the country of his queen, in praise of whom he +was quite lavish, observing more than once that England never had +had such a queen, and would not easily get such another. + +It now began to grow hot. On the left hand, almost close to the +high road, I met with a singularly clear rivulet. In this I bathed, +and was much refreshed, and afterwards, with fresh alacrity, +continued my journey. + +I had now got over the common, and was once more in a country rich +and well cultivated beyond all conception. This continued to be the +case as far as Slough, which is twenty miles and a half from London, +on the way to Oxford, and from which to the left there is a road +leading to Windsor, whose high white castle I have already seen at a +distance. + +I made no stay here, but went directly to the right, along a very +pleasant high road, between meadows and green hedges, towards +Windsor, where I arrived about noon. + +It strikes a foreigner as something particular and unusual when, on +passing through these fine English towns, he observed one of those +circumstances by which the towns in Germany are distinguished from +the villages--no walls, no gates, no sentries, nor garrisons. No +stern examiner comes here to search and inspect us or our baggage; +no imperious guard here demands a sight of our passports; perfectly +free and unmolested, we here walk through villages and towns as +unconcerned as we should through a house of our own. + +Just before I got to Windsor I passed Eton College, one of the first +public schools in England, and perhaps in the world. I have before +observed that there are in England fewer of these great schools than +one might expect. It lay on my left; and on the right, directly +opposite to it, was an inn, into which I went. + +I suppose it was during the hour of recreation, or in playtime, when +I got to Eton, for I saw the boys in the yard before the college, +which was enclosed by a low wall, in great numbers, walking and +running up and down. + +Their dress struck me particularly. From the biggest to the least, +they all wore black cloaks, or gowns, over coloured clothes, through +which there was an aperture for their arms. They also wore besides +a square hat or cap, that seemed to be covered with velvet, such as +our clergymen in many places wear. + +They were differently employed--some talking together, some playing, +and some had their books in their hands, and were reading; but I was +soon obliged to get out of their sight, they stared at me so as I +came along, all over dust, with my stick in my hand. + +As I entered the inn, and desired to have something to eat, the +countenance of the waiter soon gave me to understand that I should +there find no very friendly reception. Whatever I got they seemed +to give me with such an air as showed too plainly how little they +thought of me, and as if they considered me but as a beggar. I must +do them the justice to own, however, that they suffered me to pay +like a gentleman. No doubt this was the first time this pert, +bepowdered puppy had ever been called on to wait on a poor devil who +entered their place on foot. I was tired, and asked for a bedroom +where I might sleep. They showed me into one that much resembled a +prison for malefactors. I requested that I might have a better room +at night; on which, without any apology, they told me that they had +no intention of lodging me, as they had no room for such guests, but +that I might go back to Slough, where very probably I might get a +night's lodging. + +With money in my pocket, and a consciousness, moreover, that I was +doing nothing that was either imprudent, unworthy, or really mean, I +own it mortified and vexed me to find myself obliged to put up with +this impudent ill-usage from people who ought to reflect that they +are but the servants of the public, and little likely to recommend +themselves to the high by being insolent to the low. They made me, +however, pay them two shillings for my dinner and coffee, which I +had just thrown down, and was preparing to shake off the dust from +my shoes, and quit this inhospitable St. Christopher, when the green +hills of Windsor smiled so friendly upon me, that they seemed to +invite me first to visit them. + +And now trudging through the streets of Windsor, I at length mounted +a sort of hill; a steep path led me on to its summit, close to the +walls of the castle, where I had an uncommonly extensive and fine +prospect, which so much raised my heart, that in a moment I forgot +not only the insults of waiters and tavern-keepers, but the hardship +of my lot in being obliged to travel in a manner that exposed me to +the scorn of a people whom I wished to respect. Below me lay the +most beautiful landscapes in the world--all the rich scenery that +nature, in her best attire, can exhibit. Here were the spots that +furnished those delightful themes of which the muse of Denham and +Pope made choice. I seemed to view a whole world at once, rich and +beautiful beyond conception. At that moment what more could I have +wished for? + +And the venerable castle, that royal edifice which, in every part of +it, has strong traces of antiquity, smiles through its green trees, +like the serene countenance of some hoary sage, who, by the vigour +of a happy constitution, still retains many of the charms of youth. + +Nothing inspired me with more veneration and awe than the fine old +building St. George's Church, which, as you come down from the +castle, is on your right. At the sight of it past centuries seemed +to revive in my imagination. + +But I will see no more of those sights which are shown you by one of +those venal praters, who ten times a day, parrot-wise, repeat over +the same dull lesson they have got by heart. The surly fellow, who +for a shilling conducted me round the church, had nearly, with his +chattering, destroyed the finest impressions. Henry VIII., Charles +I., and Edward IV. are buried here. After all, this church, both +within and without, has a most melancholy and dismal appearance. + +They were building at what is called the queen's palace, and +prodigious quantities of materials are provided for that purpose. + +I now went down a gentle declivity into the delightful park at +Windsor, at the foot of which it looks so sombrous and gloomy that I +could hardly help fancying it was some vast old Gothic temple. This +forest certainly, in point of beauty, surpasses everything of the +kind you can figure to yourself. To its own charms, when I saw it, +there were added a most pleasing and philosophical solitude, the +coolness of an evening breeze, all aided by the soft sounds of +music, which, at this distance from the castle, from whence it +issued, was inexpressibly sweet. It threw me into a sort of +enthusiastic and pleasing reverie, which made me ample amends for +the fatigues, discourtesies, and continued cross accidents I had +encountered in the course of the day. + +I now left the forest; the clock struck six, and the workmen were +going home from their work. + +I have forgot to mention the large round tower of the castle, which +is also a very ancient building. The roads that lead to it are all +along their sides planted with shrubs; these, being modern and +lively, make a pleasing contrast to the fine old mossy walls. On +the top of this tower the flag of Great Britain is usually +displayed, which, however, as it was now late in the evening, was +taken in. + +As I came down from the castle I saw the king driving up to it in a +very plain, two-wheeled, open carriage. The people here were +politer than I used to think they were in London, for I did not see +a single person, high or low, who did not pull off their hats as +their sovereign passed them. + +I was now again in Windsor, and found myself, not far from the +castle, opposite to a very capital inn, where I saw many officers +and several persons of consequence going in and out. And here at +this inn, contrary to all expectation, I was received by the +landlord with great civility, and even kindness--very contrary to +the haughty and insolent airs which the upstart at the other, and +his jackanapes of a waiter, there thought fit to give themselves. + +However, it seemed to be my fate to be still a scandal and an +eyesore to all the waiters. The maid, by the order of her master, +showed me a room where I might adjust my dress a little; but I could +hear her mutter and grumble as she went along with me. Having put +myself a little to rights, I went down into the coffee-room, which +is immediately at the entrance of the house, and told the landlord +that I thought I wished to have yet one more walk. On this he +obligingly directed me to stroll down a pleasant field behind his +house, at the foot of which, he said, I should find the Thames, and +a good bathing place. + +I followed his advice; and this evening was, if possible, finer than +the preceding. Here again, as I had been told I should, I found the +Thames with all its gentle windings. Windsor shone nearly as bright +over the green vale as those charming houses on Richmond Hill, and +the verdure was not less soft and delicate. The field I was in +seemed to slope a little towards the Thames. I seated myself near a +bush, and there waited the going down of the sun. At a distance I +saw a number of people bathing in the Thames. When, after sunset, +they were a little dispersed, I drew near the spot I had been +directed to; and here, for the first time, I sported in the cool +tide of the Thames. The bank was steep, but my landlord had dug +some steps that went down into the water, which is extremely +convenient for those who cannot swim. Whilst I was there, a couple +of smart lively apprentice boys came also from the town, who, with +the greatest expedition, threw off their clothes and leathern +aprons, and plunged themselves, head foremost, into the water, where +they opposed the tide with their sinewy arms till they were tired. +They advised me, with much natural civility, to untie my hair, and +that then, like them, I might plunge into the stream head foremost. + +Refreshed and strengthened by this cool bath, I took a long walk by +moonlight on the banks of the Thames. To my left were the towers of +Windsor, before me a little village with a steeple, the top of which +peeped out among the green trees, at a distance two inviting hills +which I was to climb in the morning, and around me the green +cornfields. Oh! how indescribably beautiful was this evening and +this walk! At a distance among the houses I could easily descry the +inn where I lodged, and where I seemed to myself at length to have +found a place of refuge and a home; and I thought, if I could but +stay there, I should not be very sorry if I were never to find +another. + +How soon did all these pleasing dreams vanish! On my return the +waiters (who, from my appearance, too probably expected but a +trifling reward for their attentions to me) received me gruffly, and +as if they were sorry to see me again. This was not all; I had the +additional mortification to be again roughly accosted by the cross +maid who had before shown me to the bed-chamber, and who, dropping a +kind of half courtesy, with a suppressed laugh, sneeringly told me I +might look out for another lodging, as I could not sleep there, +since the room she had by mistake shown me was already engaged. It +can hardly be necessary to tell you that I loudly protested against +this sudden change. At length the landlord came, and I appealed to +him; and he with great courtesy immediately desired another room to +be shown me, in which, however, there were two beds, so that I was +obliged to admit a companion. Thus was I very near being a second +time turned out of an inn. + +Directly under my room was the tap-room, from which I could plainly +hear too much of the conversation of some low people, who were +drinking and singing songs, in which, as far as I could understand +them, there were many passages at least as vulgar and nonsensical as +ours. + +This company, I guessed, consisted chiefly of soldiers and low +fellows. I was hardly well lulled to sleep by this hurly-burly, +when my chum (probably one of the drinking party below) came +stumbling into the room and against my bed. At length, though not +without some difficulty, he found his own bed, into which he threw +himself just as he was, without staying to pull off either clothes +or boots. + +This morning I rose very early, as I had proposed, in order to climb +the two hills which yesterday presented me with so inviting a +prospect, and in particular that one of them on the summit of which +a high white house appeared among the dark-green trees; the other +was close by. + +I found no regular path leading to these hills, and therefore went +straight forward, without minding roads, only keeping in view the +object of my aim. This certainly created me some trouble. I had +sometimes a hedge, and sometimes a hog to walk round; but at length +I had attained the foot of the so earnestly wished-for hill with the +high white house on its summit, when, just as I was going to ascend +it, and was already pleasing myself in the idea with the prospect +from the white house, behold I read these words on a board: "Take +care! there are steel traps and spring guns here." + +All my labour was lost, and I now went round to the other hill; but +here were also steel traps and spring gnus, though probably never +intended to annoy such a wanderer as myself, who wished only to +enjoy the fine morning air from this eminence. + +Thus disappointed in my hopes, I returned to Windsor, much in the +same temper and manner as I had yesterday morning from Richmond +Hill; where my wishes had also been frustrated. + +When I got to my inn, I received from the ill-tempered maid, who +seemed to have been stationed there on purpose to plague and vex me, +the polite welcome, that on no account should I sleep another night +there. Luckily, that was not my intention. I now write to you in +the coffee room, where two Germans are talking together, who +certainly little suspect how well I understand them; if I were to +make myself known to them, as a German, most probably, even these +fellows would not speak to me, because I travel on foot. I fancy +they are Hanoverians! The weather is so fine that, notwithstanding +the inconveniences I have hitherto experienced on this account, I +think I shall continue my journey in the same manner. + + + +CHAPTER X. + + + +Oxford, June 25. + +To what various, singular, and unaccountable fatalities and +adventures are not foot-travellers exposed, in this land of +carriages and horses! But, I will begin my relation in form and +order. + +In Windsor, I was obliged to pay for an old fowl I had for supper, +for a bedroom which I procured with some difficulty, and not without +murmurs, and in which, to complete my misadventures, I was disturbed +by a drunken fellow; and for a couple of dishes of tea, nine +shillings, of which the fowl alone was charged six shillings. + +As I was going away the waiter, who had served me with so very ill a +grace, placed himself on the stairs and said, "Pray remember the +waiter." I gave him three halfpence, on which he saluted me with +the heartiest "G-d d-n you, sir!" I had ever heard. At the door +stood the cross maid, who also accosted me with, "Pray remember the +chambermaid." "Yes, yes," said I, "I shall long remember your most +ill-mannered behaviour and shameful incivility;" and so I gave her +nothing. I hope she was stung and nettled at my reproof; however, +she strove to stifle her anger by a contemptuous, loud, hoarse +laugh. Thus, as I left Windsor, I was literally followed by abuses +and curses. + +I am very sorry to say that I rejoiced when I once more perceived +the towers of Windsor behind me. It is not proper for wanderers to +be prowling near the palaces of kings, and so I sat me down, +philosophically, in the shade of a green hedge, and again read +Milton, no friend of kings, though the first of poets. Whatever I +may think of their inns, it is impossible not to admire and be +charmed with this country. + +I took my way through Slough, by Salthill, to Maidenhead. At +Salthill, which can hardly be called even a village, I saw a +barber's shop, and so I resolved to get myself both shaved and +dressed. For putting my hair a little in order, and shaving me, I +was forced to pay him a shilling. Opposite to this shop there +stands an elegant house and a neat garden. + +Between Salthill and Maidenhead, I met with the first very +remarkable and alarming adventure that has occurred during my +pilgrimage. + +Hitherto I had scarcely met a single foot passenger, whilst coaches +without number every moment rolled past me, for there are few roads, +even in England, more crowded than this western road, which leads to +Bath and Bristol as well as to Oxford. I now also began to meet +numbers of people on horseback, which is by no means an usual method +of travelling. + +The road now led me along a low sunken piece of ground between high +trees, so that I could not see far before me, when a fellow in a +brown frock and round hat, with a stick in his hand a great deal +stronger than mine, came up to me. His countenance immediately +struck me as having in it something suspicious. He however passed +me; but, before I was aware, he turned back and asked me for a +halfpenny to buy, as he said, some bread, as he had eaten nothing +that day. I felt in my pocket, and found that I had no halfpence: +no, nor even a sixpence; in short, nothing but shillings. I told +him the circumstance, which I hoped would excuse me; on which he +said, with an air and manner the drift of which I could not +understand, "God bless my soul!" This drew my attention still +closer to the huge brawny fist, which grasped his stick, and that +closer attention determined me immediately to put my hand in my +pocket and give him a shilling. Meanwhile a coach came up. The +fellow thanked me and went on. Had the coach come a moment sooner, +I should not easily have given him the shilling, which, God knows, I +could not well spare. Whether this was a footpad or not, I will not +pretend to say, but he had every appearance of it. + +I now came to Maidenhead bridge, which is five-and-twenty English +miles from London. + +The English milestones give me much pleasure, and they certainly are +a great convenience to travellers. They have often seemed to ease +me of half the distance of a journey merely by telling me how far I +had already gone, and by assuring me that I was on the right road. +For, besides the distance from London, every milestone informs you +that to the next place is so many miles, and where there are cross- +roads there are direction-posts, so that it is hardly possible to +lose one's-self in walking. I must confess that all this journey +has seemed but as it were one continued walk for pleasure. + +From Maidenhead bridge there is a delightful prospect towards a +hill, which extends itself along the right bank of the Thames, and +on the top of it there are two beautiful country seats, all +surrounded with meadows and parks. The first is called Taplow, and +belongs to the Earl of Inchiquin; and a little farther Cliefden, +which also belongs to him. + +These villas seem all to be surrounded with green meadows, lying +along thick woods, and, altogether, are most charming. + +From this bridge it is not far to Maidenhead, near which, on the +left, is another prospect of a beautiful seat, belonging to +Pennyston Powney, Esq. + +All this knowledge I have gained chiefly from my English guide; +which I have constantly in my hand; and in which everything most +worthy of notice in every mile is marked. These notices I get +confirmed or refuted by the people at whose houses I stop; who +wonder how I, who am a foreigner, have come to be so well acquainted +with their country. + +Maidenhead is a place of little note; for some mulled ale, which I +desired them to make me, I was obliged to pay ninepence. I fancy +they did not take me to be either a great, or a very rich man, for I +heard them say, as I passed on, "A stout fellow!" This, though +perhaps not untrue, did not seem to sound in my ears as very +respectful. + +At the end of the village was a shoemaker's shop, just as at the end +of Salthill there was a barber's shop. + +From hence I went to Henley, which is eleven miles from Maidenhead, +and thirty-six from London. + +Having walked pretty fast for six English miles together, and being +now only five miles from Henley, I came to a rising ground where +there just happened to be a milestone, near which I sat down, to +enjoy one of the most delightful prospects, the contemplation of +which I recommend to everyone who may ever happen to come to this +spot. Close before me rose a soft hill, full of green cornfields, +fenced with quick-hedges, and the top of it was encircled with a +wood. + +At some little distance, in a large semicircle, one green hill rose +after another, all around me, gently raising themselves aloft from +the banks of the Thames, and on which woods, meadows, arable lands, +and villages were interspersed in the greatest and most beautiful +variety; whilst at their foot the Thames meandered, in most +picturesque windings, among villages, gentlemen's seats, and green +vales. + +The banks of the Thames are everywhere beautiful, everywhere +charming; how delighted was I with the sight of it when, having lost +it for a short time, I suddenly and unexpectedly saw it again with +all its beautiful banks. In the vale below, flocks were feeding; +and from the hills I heard the sweet chimes of distant bells. + +The circumstance that renders these English prospects so +enchantingly beautiful, is a concurrence and union of the tout +ensemble. Everything coincides and conspires to render them fine, +moving pictures. It is impossible to name, or find a spot, on which +the eye would not delight to dwell. Any of the least beautiful of +any of these views that I have seen in England would, anywhere in +Germany, be deemed a paradise. + +Reinforced, as it were, by this gratifying prospect, to support +fresh fatigues, I now walked a quick pace, both up and down the +hills, the five remaining miles to Henley, where I arrived about +four in the afternoon. + +To the left, just before I got to Henley, on this side of the +Thames, I saw on a hill a fine park and a magnificent country seat, +at present occupied by General Conway. + +Just before my entrance into Henley, I walked a little directly on +the banks of the Thames; and sat myself down in the high grass, +whilst opposite to me, on the other side, lay the park on the hill. +As I was a little tired, I fell asleep, and when I awoke the last +rays of the setting sun just shone upon me. + +Invigorated by this sweet, though short, slumber, I walked on and +entered the town. Its appearance, however, indicated that it was +too fine a place for me, and so I determined to stop at an inn on +the road-side, such a one as the Vicar of Wakefield well calls, "the +resort of indigence and frugality." + +The worst of it was, no one, even in these places of refuge, would +take me in. Yet, on this road, I met two farmers, the first of whom +I asked whether he thought I could get a night's lodging at a house +which I saw at a distance, by the road side. "Yes, sir, I daresay +you may," he replied. But he was mistaken: when I came there, I +was accosted with that same harsh salutation, which though, alas, no +longer quite new to me, was still unpleasing to my ears; "We have +got no beds; you can't stay here to-night." It was the same at the +other inn on the road; I was therefore obliged to determine to walk +on as far as Nettlebed, which was five miles farther, where I +arrived rather late in the evening, when it was indeed quite dark. + +Everything seemed to be all alive in this little village; there was +a party of militia soldiers who were dancing, singing, and making +merry. Immediately on my entrance into the village, the first house +that I saw, lying on my left, was an inn, from which, as usual in +England, a large beam extended across the street to the opposite +house, from which hung dangling an astonishing large sign, with the +name of the proprietor. + +"May I stay here to-night?" I asked with eagerness. "Why, yes, you +may;" an answer which, however cold and surly, made me exceedingly +happy. + +They showed me into the kitchen, and set me down to sup at the same +table with some soldiers and the servants. I now, for the first +time, found myself in one of those kitchens which I had so often +read of in Fielding's fine novels; and which certainly give one, on +the whole, a very accurate idea of English manners. + +The chimney in this kitchen, where they were roasting and boiling, +seemed to be taken off from the rest of the room and enclosed by a +wooden partition; the rest of the apartment was made use of as a +sitting and eating-room. All round on the sides were shelves with +pewter dishes and plates, and the ceiling was well stored with +provisions of various kinds, such as sugar-loaves, black-puddings, +hams, sausages, flitches of bacon, &c. + +While I was eating, a post-chaise drove up, and in a moment both the +folding-doors were thrown open and the whole house set in motion, in +order to receive, with all due respect, these guests, who, no doubt, +were supposed to be persons of consequence. The gentlemen alighted, +however, only for a moment, and called for nothing but a couple of +pots of beer, and then drove away again. Notwithstanding, the +people of the house behaved to them with all possible attention, for +they came in a post-chaise. + +Though this was only an ordinary village, and they certainly did not +take me for a person of consequence, they yet gave me a carpeted +bedroom, and a very good bed. + +The next morning I put on clean linen, which I had along with me, +and dressed myself as well as I could. And now, when I thus made my +appearance, they did not, as they had the evening before, show me +into the kitchen, but into the parlour, a room that seemed to be +allotted for strangers, on the ground-floor. I was also now +addressed by the most respectful term, "sir;" whereas the evening +before I had been called only "master": by this latter appellation, +I believe, it is usual to address only farmers and quite common +people. + +This was Sunday, and all the family were in their Sunday-clothes. I +now began to be much pleased with this village, and so I resolved to +stop at it for the day, and attend divine service. For this purpose +I borrowed a prayer-book of my host. Mr. Illing was his name, which +struck me the more, perhaps, because it is a very common name in +Germany. During my breakfast I read over several parts of the +English liturgy, and could not help being struck at the circumstance +that every word in the whole service seems to be prescribed and +dictated to the clergyman. They do not visit the sick but by a +prescribed form; as, for instance, they must begin by saying, "Peace +be to this house," &c. + +Its being called a prayer-book, rather than, like ours, a hymn-book, +arises from the nature of the English service, which is composed +very little of singing, and almost entirely of praying. The psalms +of David, however, are here translated into English verse, and are +generally printed at the end of English prayer-books. + +The prayer-book which my landlord lent me was quite a family piece, +for all his children's births and names, and also his own wedding- +day, were very carefully set down on it. Even on this account alone +the book would not have been uninteresting to me. + +At half-past nine the service began. Directly opposite to our +house, the boys of the village were all drawn up, as if they had +been recruits to be drilled; all well-looking, healthy lads, neat +and decently dressed, and with their hair cut short and combed on +the forehead, according to the English fashion; their bosoms were +open, and the white frills of their shirts turned back on each side. +They seemed to be drawn up here at the entrance of the village +merely to wait the arrival of the clergyman. + +I walked a little way out of the village, where, at some distance, I +saw several people coming from another village, to attend divine +service here at Nettlebed. + +At length came the parson on horseback. The boys pulled off their +hats, and all made him very low bows. He appeared to be rather an +elderly man, and wore his own hair round and decently dressed, or +rather curled naturally. + +The bell now rung in, and so I too, with a sort of secret proud +sensation, as if I also had been an Englishman, went with my prayer- +book under my arm to church, along with the rest of the +congregation; and when I got into the church, the clerk very civilly +seated me close to the pulpit. + +Nothing can possibly be more simple, apt, and becoming than the few +decorations of this church. + +Directly over the altar, on two tables in large letters, the ten +commandments were written. There surely is much wisdom and +propriety in thus placing, full in the view of the people, the sum +and substance of all morality. + +Under the pulpit near the steps that led up to it, was a desk, from +which the clergyman read the liturgy, the responses were all +regularly made by the clerk; the whole congregation joining +occasionally, though but in a low voice; as for instance, the +minister said, "Lord, have mercy upon us!" the clerk and the +congregation immediately subjoin, "and forgive us all our sins." In +general, when the clergyman offers up a prayer, the clerk and the +whole congregation answer only, Amen! + +The English service must needs be exceedingly fatiguing to the +officiating minister, inasmuch as besides a sermon, the greatest +part of the liturgy falls to his share to read, besides the psalms +and two lessons. + +The joining of the whole congregation in prayer has something +exceedingly solemn and affecting in it. + +Two soldiers, who sat near me in the church, and who had probably +been in London, seemed to wish to pass for philosophers, and wits; +for they did not join in the prayers of the church. + +The service was now pretty well advanced, when I observed some +little stir in the desk, the clerk was busy, and they seemed to be +preparing for something new and solemn, and I also perceived several +musical instruments. The clergyman now stopped, and the clerk then +said in a loud voice, "Let us sing to the praise and glory of God, +the forty-seventh psalm." + +I cannot well express how affecting and edifying it seemed to me, to +hear this whole orderly and decent congregation, in this small +country church, joining together with vocal and instrumental music, +in the praise of their Maker. It was the more grateful, as having +been performed, not by mercenary musicians, but by the peaceful and +pious inhabitants of this sweet village. I can hardly figure to +myself any offering more likely to be grateful to God. + +The congregation sang and prayed alternately several times, and the +tunes of the psalms were particularly lively and cheerful, though at +the same time sufficiently grave, and uncommonly interesting. I am +a warm admirer of all sacred music, and I cannot but add that that +of the Church of England is particularly calculated to raise the +heart to devotion; I own it often affected me even to tears. + +The clergyman now stood up and made a short but very proper +discourse on this text: "Not all they who say, Lord, Lord! shall +enter the kingdom of heaven." His language was particularly plain, +though forcible; his arguments were no less plain, convincing, and +earnest, but contained nothing that was particularly striking. I do +not think the sermon lasted more than half an hour. + +This clergyman had not perhaps a very prepossessing appearance; I +thought him also a little distant and reserved, and I did not quite +like his returning the bows of the farmers with a very formal nod. + +I stayed till the service was quite over, and then went out of the +church with the congregation, and amused myself with reading the +inscriptions on the tombstones in the churchyard, which in general, +are simpler, more pathetic, and better written than ours. + +There were some of them which, to be sure, were ludicrous and +laughable enough. + +Among these is one on the tomb of a smith, which on account of its +singularity, I here copy and send you. + + +"My sledge and anvil he declined, +My bellows too have lost their wind; +My fire's extinct, my forge decayed, +My coals are spent, my iron's gone, +My nails are drove: my work is done." + + +Many of these epitaphs closed with the following quaint rhymes: + + +"Physicians were in vain; +God knew the best; +So here I rest." + + +In the body of the church I saw a marble monument of a son of the +celebrated Dr. Wallis, with the following simple and affecting +inscription: + + +"The same good sense which qualified him for every public employment +Taught him to spend his life here in retirement." + + +All the farmers whom I saw there were dressed, not as ours are, in +coarse frocks, but with some taste, in fine good cloth; and were to +be distinguished from the people of the town, not so much by their +dress, as by the greater simplicity and modesty of their behaviour. + +Some soldiers, who probably were ambitious of being thought to know +the world, and to be wits, joined me, as I was looking at the +church, and seemed to be quite ashamed of it, as they said it was +only a very miserable church. On which I took the liberty to inform +them, that no church could be miserable which contained orderly and +good people. + +I stayed here to dinner. In the afternoon there was no service; the +young people however, went to church, and there sang some few +psalms; others of the congregation were also present. This was +conducted with so much decorum, that I could hardly help considering +it as actually a kind of church-service. I stayed with great +pleasure till this meeting also was over. + +I seemed indeed to be enchanted, and as if I could not leave this +village. Three times did I get off, in order to go on farther, and +as often returned, more than half resolved to spend a week, or more, +in my favourite Nettlebed. + +But the recollection that I had but a few weeks to stay in England, +and that I must see Derbyshire, at length drove me away. I cast +many a longing, lingering look on the little church-steeple, and +those hospitable friendly roofs, where, all that morning, I had +found myself so perfectly at home. + +It was now nearly three o'clock in the afternoon when I left this +place, and I was still eighteen miles from Oxford. However, I +seemed resolved to make more than one stage of it to Oxford, that +seat of the muses, and so, by passing the night about five miles +from it, to reach it in good time next morning. + +The road from Nettlebed seemed to me but as one long fine gravel +walk in a neat garden. And my pace in it was varied, like that of +one walking in a garden: I sometimes walked quick, then slow, and +then sat down and read Milton. + +When I had got about eight miles from Nettlebed, and was now not far +from Dorchester, I had the Thames at some distance on my left, and +on the opposite side I saw an extensive hill, behind which a tall +mast seemed to rise. This led me to suppose that on the other side +of the hill there must needs also be a river. The prospect I +promised myself from this hill could not possibly be passed, and so +I went out of the road to the left over a bridge across the Thames, +and mounted the hill, always keeping the mast in view. When I had +attained the summit, I found (and not without some shame and +chagrin) that it was all an illusion. There was, in fact, nothing +before me but a great plain, and the mast had been fixed there, +either as a maypole only, or to entice curious people out of their +way. + +I therefore now again, slowly and sullenly, descended the hill, at +the bottom of which was a house, where several people were looking +out of the window, and, as I supposed, laughing at me. Even if it +were so, it seemed to be but fair, and so it rather amused, than +vexed me, and I continued to jog on, without much regretting my +waste journey to the mast. + +Not far from Dorchester, I had another delightful view. The country +here became so fine, that I positively could not prevail on myself +to quit it, and so I laid myself down on the green turf, which was +so fresh and sweet, that I could almost have been contented, like +Nebuchadnezzar, to have grazed on it. The moon was at the full; the +sun darted its last parting rays through the green hedges, to all +which was added, the overpowering fragrance of the meadows, the +diversified song of the birds, the hills that skirted the Thames, +some of them of a light, and others of a dark-green hue, with the +tufted tops of trees dispersed here and there among them. The +contemplation of all these delightful circumstances well-nigh +overcame me. + +I arrived rather late at Dorchester. This is only a small place, +but there is in it a large and noble old church. As I was walking +along, I saw several ladies with their heads dressed, leaning out of +their windows, or standing before the houses, and this made me +conclude that this was too fine a place for me, and so I determined +to walk on three-quarters of a mile farther to Nuneham, which place +is only five miles from Oxford. When I reached Nuneham, I was not a +little tired, and it was also quite dark. + +The place consists of two rows of low, neat houses, built close to +each other, and as regular and uniform as a London street. All the +doors seemed to be shut, and even a light was to be seen only in a +few of them. + +At length quite at the end of the place, I perceived a great sign +hanging across the street, and the last house to the left was the +inn, at which everything seemed to be still in motion. + +I entered without ceremony, and told them my errand, which was, that +I intended to sleep there that night. "By no means," was the +answer, "it was utterly impossible; the whole house was full, and +all their beds engaged, and, as I had come so far, I might even as +well walk on the remaining five miles to Oxford." + +Being very hungry, I requested that, at least, they would give me +something to eat. To this they answered that, as I could not stay +all night there, it would be more proper for me to sup where I +lodged, and so I might go on. + +At length, quite humbled by the untowardness of my circumstances, I +asked for a pot of beer, and that they did vouchsafe to give me, for +ready money only; but a bit of bread to eat with it (for which also +I would willingly have paid) they peremptorily refused me. + +Such unparalleled inhospitality I really could not have expected in +an English inn, but resolving, with a kind of spiteful indignation, +to see how far their inhumanity would carry them, I begged that they +would only let me sleep on a bench, and merely give me house-room, +adding, that if they would grant me that boon only, I would pay them +the same as for a bed, for, that I was so tired, I could not +possibly go any farther. Even in the moment that I was thus humbly +soliciting this humble boon, they banged the door to full in my +face. + +As here, in a small village, they had refused to receive me, it +seemed to be presumption to hope that I should gain admittance at +Oxford. What could I do? I was much tired, and so, as it was not a +very cold night, I resolved to pass it in the open air; in this +resolution, bouncing from this rude inn, I went to look out for a +convenient spot for that purpose in an adjoining field, beneath some +friendly tree. Just as I had found a place, which I thought would +do, and was going to pull off my great coat to lay under my head by +way of pillow, I heard someone behind me, following me with a quick +pace. At first I was alarmed, but my fears were soon dispelled by +his calling after me, and asking "if I would accept of company." + +As little as anyone is to be trusted who thus follows you into a +field in a dark night, yet it was a pleasure to me to find that +there were still some beings not quite inhuman, and at least one +person who still interested himself about me, I therefore stopped, +and as he came up to me he said that if I was a good walker, we +might keep each other company, as he was also going to Oxford. I +readily accepted of his proposal, and so we immediately set off +together. + +Now, as I could not tell whether my travelling companion was to be +trusted or not, I soon took an opportunity to let him know that I +was poor, and much distressed. To confirm this, I told him of the +inhumanity with which I had just been treated at the inn, where they +refused a poor wanderer so much as a place to lay his head, or even +a morsel of bread for his money. + +My companion somewhat excused the people by saying that the house +was really full of people who had been at work in the neighbourhood, +and now slept there. But that they had refused me a bit of bread he +certainly could not justify. As we went along, other topics of +conversation were started, and among other things he asked me where +I came from that day. + +I answered from Nettlebed, and added, that I had attended divine +service there that morning. + +"As you probably passed through Dorchester this afternoon," said he, +"you might have heard me preach also, had you come into the church +there, for that is my curacy, from which I am just come, and am now +returning to Oxford." "So you are a clergyman;" said I, quite +overjoyed that, in a dark night, I had met a companion on the road, +who was of the same profession as myself. "And I, also," said I, +"am a preacher of the gospel, though not of this country." And now +I thought it right to give him to understand, that it was not, as I +had before intimated, out of absolute poverty, but with a view of +becoming better acquainted with men and manners, that I thus +travelled on foot. He was as much pleased with this agreeable +meeting as myself, and before we took a step farther, we cordially +shook hands. + +He now began to address me in Latin, and on my answering him in that +language, which I attempted to pronounce according to the English +manner of speaking it, he applauded me not a little for my correct +pronunciation. He then told me, that some years ago, in the night +also, and nearly at the same spot where he found me, he had met +another German, who likewise spoke to him in Latin; but this unknown +countryman of mine had pronounced it so very badly, that he said it +was absolutely unintelligible. + +The conversation now turned on various theological matters; and +among others on the novel notions of a Dr. Priestly, whom he roundly +blamed. I was not at all disposed to dispute that point with him, +and so, professing with great sincerity, a high esteem for the +Church of England, and great respect and regard for its clergy, I +seemed to gain his good opinion. + +Beguiling the tediousness of the road by such discourse, we were now +got, almost without knowing it, quite to Oxford. + +He told me I should now see one of the finest and most beautiful +cities, not only in England, but in all Europe. All he lamented, +was, that on account of the darkness of the night, I should not +immediately see it. + +This really was the case: "And now," said he, as we entered the +town, "I introduce you into Oxford by one of the finest, the +longest, and most beautiful streets, not only in this city, but in +England, and I may safely add in all Europe." + +The beauty and the magnificence of the street I could not +distinguish; but of its length I was perfectly sensible by my +fatigue; for we still went on, and still through the longest, the +finest, and most beautiful street in Europe, which seemed to have no +end; nor had I any assurance that I should be able to find a bed for +myself in all this famous street. At length my companion stopped to +take leave of me, and said he should now go to his college. + +"And I," said I, "will seat myself for the night on this stone bench +and await the morning, as it will be in vain for me, I imagine, to +look for shelter in a house at this time of night." + +"Seat yourself on a stone!" said my companion, and shook his head. +"No, no! come along with me to a neighbouring ale-house, where it is +possible they mayn't be gone to bed, and we may yet find company." +We went on a few houses further, and then knocked at a door. It was +then nearly twelve. They readily let us in; but how great was my +astonishment, when, on being shown into a room on the left, I saw a +great number of clergymen, all with their gowns and bands on, +sitting round a large table, each with his pot of beer before him. +My travelling companion introduced me to them, as a German +clergyman, whom he could not sufficiently praise for my correct +pronunciation of the Latin, my orthodoxy, and my good walking. + +I now saw myself in a moment, as it were, all at once transported +into the midst of a company, all apparently very respectable men, +but all strangers to me. And it appeared to me extraordinary that I +should, thus at midnight, be in Oxford, in a large company of +Oxonian clergy, without well knowing how I had got there. +Meanwhile, however, I took all the pains in my power to recommend +myself to my company, and in the course of conversation, I gave them +as good an account as I could of our German universities, neither +denying nor concealing that, now and then, we had riots and +disturbances. "Oh, we are very unruly here, too," said one of the +clergymen as he took a hearty draught out of his pot of beer, and +knocked on the table with his hand. The conversation now became +louder, more general, and a little confused; they enquired after Mr. +Bruns, at present professor at Helmstadt, and who was known by many +of them. + +Among these gentlemen there was one of the name of Clerk, who seemed +ambitious to pass for a great wit, which he attempted by starting +sundry objections to the Bible. I should have liked him better if +he had confined himself to punning and playing on his own name, by +telling us again and again, that he should still be at least a +Clerk, even though he should never become a clergyman. Upon the +whole, however, he was, in his way, a man of some humour, and an +agreeable companion. + +Among other objections to the Scriptures, he started this one to my +travelling companion, whose name I now learnt was Maud, that it was +said in the Bible that God was a wine-bibber. On this Mr. Maud fell +into a violent passion, and maintained that it was utterly +impossible that any such passage should be found in the Bible. +Another divine, a Mr. Caern referred us to his absent brother, who +had already been forty years in the church, and must certainly know +something of such a passage if it were in the Bible, but he would +venture to lay any wager his brother knew nothing of it. + +"Waiter! fetch a Bible!" called out Mr. Clerk, and a great family +Bible was immediately brought in, and opened on the table among all +the beer jugs. + +Mr. Clerk turned over a few leaves, and in the book of Judges, 9th +chapter, verse xiii, he read, "Should I leave my wine, which +cheereth God and man?" + +Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, who had before been most violent, now sat as +if struck dumb. A silence of some minutes prevailed, when all at +once, the spirit of revelation seemed to come on me, and I said, +"Why, gentlemen, you must be sensible that it is but an allegorical +expression;" and I added, "how often in the Bible are kings called +gods!" + +"Why, yes, to be sure," said Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, "it is an +allegorical expression; nothing can be more clear; it is a metaphor, +and therefore it is absurd to understand it in a literal sense." +And now they, in their turn, triumphed over poor Clerk, and drank +large draughts to my health in strong ale; which, as my company +seemed to like so much, I was sorry I could not like. It either +intoxicated or stupefied me; and I do think it overpowers one much +sooner than so much wine would. The conversation now turned on many +other different subjects. At last, when morning drew near, Mr. Maud +suddenly exclaimed, "D-n me, I must read prayers this morning at +All-Souls!" D-n me is an abbreviation of G-d d-n me; which, in +England, does not seem to mean more mischief or harm than any of our +or their common expletives in conversation, such as O gemini! or, +The deuce take me! + +Before Mr. Maud went away, he invited me to go and see him in the +morning, and very politely offered himself to show me the +curiosities of Oxford. The rest of the company now also dispersed; +and as I had once (though in so singular a manner) been introduced +into so reputable a society, the people of the house made no +difficulty of giving me lodging, but with great civility showed me a +very decent bed-chamber. + +I am almost ashamed to own, that next morning, when I awoke, I had +got so dreadful a headache, from the copious and numerous toasts of +my jolly and reverend friends, that I could not possibly get up; +still less could I wait on Mr. Maud at his college. + +The inn where I was goes by the name of the Mitre. Compared to +Windsor, I here found prince-like attendance. Being, perhaps, a +little elevated the preceding evening, I had in the gaiety, or +perhaps in the vanity of my heart, told the waiter, that he must not +think, because I came on foot, that therefore I should give him less +than others gave. I assured him of the contrary. It was probably +not a little owing to this assurance that I had so much attention +shown to me. + +I now determined to stay at least a couple of days at Oxford; it was +necessary and proper, if for no other reason, yet merely that I +might have clean linen. No people are so cleanly as the English, +nor so particular about neat and clean linen. For, one afternoon, +my shirt not having been lately changed, as I was walking through a +little street, I heard two women, who were standing at a door, call +after me, "Look at the gentleman there! a fine gentleman, indeed, +who cannot afford even a clean shirt!" + +I dined below with the family, and a few other persons, and the +conversation in general was agreeable enough. I was obliged to tell +them many wonderful stories (for who are so illiterate or insensible +as not to be delighted with the marvellous!) concerning Germany and +the King of Prussia. They could not sufficiently admire my courage +in determining to travel on foot, although they could not help +approving of the motive. At length, however, it came out, and they +candidly owned, that I should not have been received into their +house, had I not been introduced as I was. + +I was now confirmed in my suspicions, that, in England, any person +undertaking so long a journey on foot, is sure to be looked upon and +considered as either a beggar or a vagabond, or some necessitous +wretch, which is a character not much more popular than that of a +rogue; so that I could now easily account for my reception in +Windsor and at Nuneham. But, with all my partiality for this +country, it is impossible even in theory, and much less so in +practice, to approve of a system which confines all the pleasures +and benefits of travel to the rich. A poor peripatetic is hardly +allowed even the humble merit of being honest. + +As I still intended to pursue my journey to Derbyshire, I was +advised (at least till I got further into the country) to take a +place in a post-coach. They told me that the further I got from +London, the more reasonable and humble I should find the people; +everything would be cheaper, and everybody more hospitable. This +determined me to go in the post-coach from Oxford to Birmingham; +where Mr. Pointer, of London, had recommended me to a Mr. +Fothergill, a merchant there; and from thence to continue my journey +on foot. + +Monday I spent at Oxford, but rather unpleasantly, on account of my +headache. Mr. Maud himself came to fetch me, as he had promised he +would, but I found myself unable to go with him. + +Notwithstanding this, in the afternoon, I took a little walk up a +hill, which lies to the north of Oxford; and from the top of which I +could see the whole city; which did not, however, appear to me +nearly so beautiful and magnificent as Mr. Maud had described it to +me during our last night's walk. + +The colleges are mostly in the Gothic taste, and much overloaded +with ornaments, and built with grey stone; which, perhaps, while it +is new, looks pretty well, but it has now the most dingy, dirty, and +disgusting appearance that you can possibly imagine. + +Only one of these colleges is in the modern style. The houses of +the city are in general ordinary, in some parts quite miserable; in +some streets they are only one story high, and have shingled roofs. +To me Oxford seemed to have but a dull and gloomy look; and I cannot +but wonder how it ever came to be considered as so fine a city, and +next to London. + +I remained on the hill, on which there was a flight of steps that +led to a subterraneous walk, till sunset, and saw several students +walking here, who wore their black gowns over their coloured +clothes, and flat square hats, just like those I had seen worn by +the Eton scholars. This is the general dress of all those who +belong to the universities, with the exception of a very trifling +difference, by which persons of high birth and rank are +distinguished. + +It is probably on account of these gowns that the members of the +university are called Gownsmen, to distinguish them from the +citizens, who are called Townsmen; and when you want to mention all +the inhabitants of Oxford together, you say, "the whole town, +Gownsmen and Townsmen." + +This dress, I must own, pleases me far beyond the boots, cockades, +and other frippery, of many of our students. Nor am I less +delighted with the better behaviour and conduct which, in general, +does so much credit to the students of Oxford. + +The next morning Mr. Maud, according to his promise, showed me some +of the things most worthy of notice in Oxford. And first he took me +to his own room in his own college, which was on the ground floor, +very low and dark, and resembled a cell, at least as much as a place +of study. The name of this college is Corpus Christi. He next +conducted me to All Souls' College, a very elegant building, in +which the chapel is particularly beautiful. Mr. Maud also showed +me, over the altar here, a fine painting of Mengs, at the sight of +which he showed far more sensibility than I thought him possessed +of. He said that notwithstanding he saw that painting almost daily, +he never saw it without being much affected. + +The painting represented Mary Magdalene when she first suddenly sees +Jesus standing before her, and falls at His feet. And in her +countenance pain, joy, grief, in short almost all the strongest of +our passions, are expressed in so masterly a manner, that no man of +true taste was ever tired of contemplating it; the longer it is +looked at the more it is admired. He now also showed me the library +of this college, which is provided with a gallery round the top, and +the whole is most admirably regulated and arranged. Among other +things, I here saw a description of Oxford, with plates to +illustrate it: and I cannot help observing what, though trite, is +true, that all these places look much better, and are far more +beautiful on paper, than they appeared to me to be as I looked at +them where they actually stand. + +Afterwards Mr. Maud conducted me to the Bodleian Library, which is +not unworthy of being compared to the Vatican at Rome; and next to +the building which is called the Theatre, and where the public +orations are delivered. This is a circular building with a gallery +all round it, which is furnished with benches one above the other, +on which the doctors, masters of arts, and students sit, and +directly opposite to each other are erected two chairs, or pulpits, +from which the disputants harangue and contend. + +Christ Church and Queen's College are the most modern, and, I think, +indisputably the best built of all the colleges. Balliol College +seems particularly to be distinguished on account of its antiquity, +and its complete Gothic style of building. + +Mr. Maud told me that a good deal of money might be sometimes earned +by preaching at Oxford; for all the members of a certain standing +are obliged in their turn to preach in the church of the university; +but many of them, when it comes to their turn, prefer the procuring +a substitute; and so not unfrequently pay as high as five or six +guineas for a sermon. + +Mr. Maud also told me he had been now eighteen years at this +university, and might be made a doctor whenever he chose it: he was +a master of arts, and according to his own account gave lectures in +his college on the classics. He also did the duty and officiated as +curate, occasionally, in some of the neighbouring villages. Going +along the street we met the English poet laureate, Warton, now +rather an elderly man; and yet he is still the fellow of a college. +His greatest pleasure next to poetry is, as Mr. Maud told me, +shooting wild ducks. + +Mr. Maud seemed upon the whole to be a most worthy and philanthropic +man. He told me, that where he now officiated the clerk was dead, +and had left a numerous family in the greatest distress; and that he +was going to the place next day, on purpose to try if he could bring +about the election of the son, a lad about sixteen years of age, in +the place of his deceased father, as clerk, to support a necessitous +family. + +At the Mitre, the inn where I lodged, there was hardly a minute in +which some students or others did not call, either to drink, or to +amuse themselves in conversation with the daughter of the landlord, +who is not only handsome, but sensible, and well behaved. + +They often spoke to me much in praise of a German, of the name of +Mitchel, at least they pronounced it so, who had for many years +rendered himself famous as a musician. I was rejoiced to hear one +of my countrymen thus praised by the English; and wished to have +paid him a visit, but I had not the good fortune to find him at +home. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + + +Castleton, June 30th. + +Before I tell you anything of the place where I now am, I will +proceed regularly in my narrative, and so begin now where I left off +in my last letter. On Tuesday afternoon Mr. Maud took me to the +different walks about Oxford, and often remarked, that they were not +only the finest in England, but he believed in Europe. I own I do +not think he over-rated their merit. There is one in particular +near the river, and close to some charming meadows, behind Corpus +Christi College, which may fairly challenge the world. + +We here seated ourselves on a bench, and Mr. Maud drew a review from +his pocket, where, among other things, a German book of Professor +Beckman's was reviewed and applauded. Mr. Maud seemed, on this +occasion, to show some respect for German literature. At length we +parted. He went to fill up the vacancy of the clerk's place at +Dorchester, and I to the Mitre, to prepare for my departure from +Oxford, which took place on Wednesday morning at three o'clock, in +the post-coach. Considering the pleasing, if not kind attention +shown me here, I own I thought my bill not unreasonable; though to +be sure, it made a great hole in my little purse. + +Within this coach there was another young man, who, though dressed +in black, yet to judge from the cockade in his hat might be an +officer. The outside was quite full with soldiers and their wives. +The women of the lower class here wear a kind of short cloak made of +red cloth: but women in general, from the highest to the lowest, +wear hats, which differ from each other less in fashion than they do +in fineness. + +Fashion is so generally attended to among the English women, that +the poorest maid-servant is careful to be in the fashion. They seem +to be particularly so in their hats or bonnets, which they all wear: +and they are in my opinion far more becoming than the very unsightly +hoods and caps which our German women, of the rank of citizens, +wear. There is, through all ranks here, not near so great a +distinction between high and low as there is in Germany. + +I had, during this day, a little headache; which rendered me more +silent and reserved to my company than is either usual in England or +natural to me. The English are taxed, perhaps too hastily, with +being shy and distant to strangers. I do not think this was, even +formerly, their true character; or that any such sentiment is +conveyed in Virgil's "Hospitibus feros." Be this as it may, the +case was here reversed. The Englishman here spoke to me several +times in a very friendly manner, while I testified not the least +inclination to enter into conversation with him. + +He however owned afterwards that it was this very apparent reserve +of mine that first gained me his good opinion. + +He said he had studied physic, but with no immediate view of +practising it. His intention, he said, was to go to the East +Indies, and there, first, to try his fortune as an officer. And he +was now going to Birmingham, merely to take leave of his three +sisters, whom he much loved, and who were at school there. + +I endeavoured to merit his confidence by telling him in my turn of +my journey on foot through England; and by relating to him a few of +the most remarkable of my adventures. He frankly told me he thought +it was venturing a great deal, yet he applauded the design of my +journey, and did not severely censure my plan. On my asking him why +Englishmen, who were so remarkable for acting up to their own +notions and ideas, did not, now and then, merely to see life in +every point of view, travel on foot. "Oh," said he, "we are too +rich, too lazy, and too proud." + +And most true it is, that the poorest Englishman one sees, is +prouder and better pleased to expose himself to the danger of having +his neck broken on the outside of a stage, than to walk any +considerable distance, though he might walk ever so much at his +ease. I own I was frightened and distressed when I saw the women, +where we occasionally stopped, get down from the top of the coach. +One of them was actually once in much danger of a terrible fall from +the roof, because, just as she was going to alight, the horses all +at once unexpectedly went on. From Oxford to Birmingham is sixty- +two miles; but all that was to be seen between the two places was +entirely lost to me, for I was again mewed up in a post-coach, and +driven along with such velocity from one place to another, that I +seemed to myself as doing nothing less than travelling. + +My companion, however, made me amends in some measure for this loss. +He seemed to be an exceedingly good-tempered and intelligent man; +and I felt in this short time a prepossession in his favour one does +not easily form for an ordinary person. This, I flattered myself, +was also the case with him, and it would mortify me not a little to +think he had quite forgotten me, as I am sure I shall never forget +him. + +Just as we had been sometime eagerly conversing about Shakespeare, +we arrived, without either of us having thought of it, at Stratford- +upon-Avon, Shakespeare's birthplace, where our coach stopped, that +being the end of one stage. We were still two-and-twenty miles from +Birmingham, and ninety-four from London. I need not tell you what +our feelings were, on thus setting our feet on classic ground. + +It was here that perhaps the greatest genius nature ever produced +was born. Here he first lisped his native tongue; here first +conceived the embryos of those compositions which were afterwards to +charm a listening world; and on these plains the young Hercules +first played. And here, too, in this lowly hut, with a few friends, +he happily spent the decline of his life, after having retired from +the great theatre of that busy world whose manners he had so +faithfully portrayed. + +The river Avon is here pretty broad, and a row of neat though humble +cottages, only one storey high, with shingled roofs, are ranged all +along its banks. These houses impressed me strongly with the idea +of patriarchal simplicity and content. + +We went to see Shakespeare's own house, which, of all the houses at +Stratford I think is now the worst, and one that made the least +appearance. Yet, who would not be proud to be the owner of it? +There now however lived in it only two old people, who show it to +strangers for a trifle, and what little they earn thus is their +chief income. + +Shakespeare's chair, in which he used to sit before the door, was so +cut to pieces that it hardly looked like a chair; for every one that +travels through Stratford cuts off a chip as a remembrance, which he +carefully preserves, and deems a precious relic, I also cut myself a +piece of it, but reverencing Shakespeare as I do, I am almost +ashamed to own to you it was so small that I have lost it, and +therefore you will not see it on my return. + +As we travelled, I observed every spot with attention, fancying to +myself that such or such a spot might be the place where such a +genius as Shakespeare's first dawned, and received those first +impressions from surrounding nature which are so strongly marked in +all his works. The first impressions of childhood, I knew, were +strong and permanent; of course I made sure of seeing here some +images at least of the wonderful conceptions of this wonderful man. +But my imagination misled me, and I was disappointed; for I saw +nothing in the country thereabouts at all striking, or in any +respect particularly beautiful. It was not at all wild and +romantic; but rather distinguished for an air of neatness and +simplicity. + +We arrived at Birmingham about three o'clock in the afternoon. I +had already paid sixteen shillings at Stratford for my place in the +coach from Oxford to Birmingham. At Oxford they had not asked +anything of me, and indeed you are not obliged in general in +England, as you are in Germany, to pay your passage beforehand. + +My companion and myself alighted at the inn where the coach stopped. +We parted with some reluctance, and I was obliged to promise him +that, on my return to London, I would certainly call on him, for +which purpose he gave me his address. His father was Dr. Wilson, a +celebrated author in his particular style of writing. + +I now inquired for the house of Mr. Fothergill, to whom I was +recommended, and I was readily directed to it, but had the +misfortune to learn, at the same time, that this very Mr. Fothergill +had died about eight days before. As, therefore, under these +circumstances, my recommendation to him was likely to be but of +little use, I had the less desire to tarry long at Birmingham, and +so, without staying a minute longer, I immediately inquired the road +to Derby, and left Birmingham. Of this famous manufacturing town, +therefore, I can give you no account. + +The road from Birmingham onwards is not very agreeable, being in +general uncommonly sandy. Yet the same evening I reached a little +place called Sutton, where everything, however, appeared to be too +grand for me to hope to obtain lodgings in it, till quite at the end +of it I came to a small inn with the sign of the Swan, under which +was written Aulton, brickmaker. + +This seemed to have something in it that suited me, and therefore I +boldly went into it; and when in I did not immediately, as +heretofore, inquire if I could stay all night there, but asked for a +pint of ale. I own I felt myself disheartened by their calling me +nothing but master, and by their showing me into the kitchen, where +the landlady was sitting at a table and complaining much of the +toothache. The compassion I expressed for her on this account, as a +stranger, seemed soon to recommend me to her favour, and she herself +asked me if I would not stay the night there? To this I most +readily assented; and thus I was again happy in a lodging for +another night. + +The company I here met with consisted of a female chimney-sweeper +and her children, who, on my sitting down in the kitchen, soon drank +to my health, and began a conversation with me and the landlady. + +She related to us her history, which I am not ashamed to own I +thought not uninteresting. She had married early, but had the hard +luck to be soon deprived of her husband, by his being pressed as a +soldier. She neither saw nor heard of him for many years, so +concluded he was dead. Thus destitute, she lived seven years as a +servant in Ireland, without any one's knowing that she was married. +During this time her husband, who was a chimney-sweeper, came back +to England and settled at Lichfield, resumed his old trade, and did +well in it. As soon as he was in good circumstances, he everywhere +made inquiry for his wife, and at last found out where she was, and +immediately fetched her from Ireland. There surely is something +pleasing in this constancy of affection in a chimney-sweeper. She +told us, with tears in her eyes, in what a style of grandeur he had +conducted her into Lichfield; and how, in honour to her, he made a +splendid feast on the occasion. At this same Lichfield, which is +only two miles from Sutton, and through which she said the road lay +which I was to travel to-morrow, she still lived with this same +excellent husband, where they were noted for their industry, where +everybody respected them, and where, though in the lowest sphere, +they are passing through life neither uselessly nor unhappily. + +The landlady, during her absence, told me as in confidence, that +this chimney-sweeper's husband, as meanly as I might fancy she now +appeared, was worth a thousand pounds, and that without reckoning in +their plate and furniture, that he always wore his silver watch, and +that when he passed through Sutton, and lodged there, he paid like a +nobleman. + +She further remarked that the wife was indeed rather low-lived; but +that the husband was one of the best-behaved, politest, and civilest +men in the world. I had myself taken notice that this same dingy +companion of mine had something singularly coarse and vulgar in her +pronunciation. The word old, for example, she sounded like auld. +In other respects, I had not yet remarked any striking variety or +difference from the pronunciation of Oxford or London. + +To-morrow the chimney-sweeper, said she, her husband, would not be +at home, but if I came back by the way of Lichfield, she would take +the liberty to request the honour of a visit, and to this end she +told me her name and the place of her abode. + +At night the rest of the family, a son and daughter of the landlady, +came home, and paid all possible attention to their sick mother. I +supped with the family, and they here behaved to me as if we had +already lived many years together. + +Happening to mention that I was, if not a scholar, yet a student, +the son told me there was at Sutton a celebrated grammar-school, +where the school-master received two hundred pounds a year settled +salary, besides the income arising from the scholars. + +And this was only in a village. I thought, and not without some +shame and sorrow, of our grammar-schools in Germany, and the +miserable pay of the masters. + +When I paid my reckoning the next morning, I observed the uncommon +difference here and at Windsor, Nettlebed, and Oxford. At Oxford I +was obliged to pay for my supper, bed, and breakfast at least three +shillings, and one to the waiter. I here paid for my supper, bed, +and breakfast only one shilling, and to the daughter, whom I was to +consider as chambermaid, fourpence; for which she very civilly +thanked me, and gave me a written recommendation to an inn at +Lichfield, where I should be well lodged, as the people in Lichfield +were, in general, she said, very proud. This written recommendation +was a masterpiece of orthography, and showed that in England, as +well as elsewhere, there are people who write entirely from the ear, +and as they pronounce. In English, however, it seems to look +particularly odd, but perhaps that may be the case in all languages +that are not native. + +I took leave here, as one does of good friends, with a certain +promise that on my return I would certainly call on them again. + +At noon I got to Lichfield, an old-fashioned town with narrow dirty +streets, where for the first time I saw round panes of glass in the +windows. The place to mime wore an unfriendly appearance; I +therefore made no use of my recommendation, but went straight +through, and only bought some bread at a baker's, which I took along +with me. + +At night I reached Burton, where the famous Burton ale is brewed. +By this time I felt myself pretty well tired, and therefore proposed +to stay the night here. But my courage failed me, and I dropped the +resolution immediately on my entering the town. The houses and +everything else seemed to wear as grand an appearance, almost, as if +I had been still in London. And yet the manners of some of its +inhabitants were so thoroughly rustic and rude, that I saw them +actually pointing at me with their fingers as a foreigner. And now, +to complete my chagrin and mortification, I came to a long street, +where everybody on both sides of the way were at their doors, and +actually made me run the gauntlet through their inquiring looks. +Some even hissed at me as I passed along. All my arguments to +induce me to pluck up my courage, such as the certainty that I +should never see these people again nor they me, were of no use. +Burton became odious and almost insupportable to me; and the street +appeared as long and tired me as much, as if I had walked a mile. +This strongly-marked contemptuous treatment of a stranger, who was +travelling through their country merely from the respect he bore it, +I experienced nowhere but at Burton. + +How happy did I feel when I again found myself out of their town, +although at that moment I did not know where I should find a lodging +for the night, and was, besides, excessively tired. But I pursued +my journey, and still kept in the road to Derby, along a footpath +which I knew to be right. It led across a very pleasant mead, the +hedges of which were separated by stiles, over which I was often +obliged to clamber. When I had walked some distance without meeting +with an inn on the road, and it had already begun to be dark, I at +last sat me down near a small toll-house, or a turnpike-gate, in +order to rest myself, and also to see whether the man at the +turnpike could and would lodge me. + +After I had sat here a considerable time, a farmer came riding by, +and asked me where I wanted to go? I told him I was so tired that I +could go no farther. On this the good-natured and truly hospitable +man, of his own accord and without the least distrust, offered to +take me behind him on his horse and carry me to a neighbouring inn, +where he said I might stay all night. + +The horse was a tall one, and I could not easily get up. The +turnpike-man, who appeared to be quite decrepid and infirm, on this +came out. I took it for granted, however, that he who appeared to +have hardly sufficient strength to support himself could not help +me. This poor looking, feeble old man, however, took hold of me +with one arm, and lifted me with a single jerk upon the horse so +quick and so alertly that it quite astonished me. + +And now I trotted on with my charming farmer, who did not ask me one +single impertinent question, but set me down quietly at the inn, and +immediately rode away to his own village, which lay to the left. + +This inn was called the Bear, and not improperly; for the landlord +went about and growled at his people just like a bear, so that at +first I expected no favourable reception. I endeavoured to gentle +him a little by asking for a mug of ale, and once or twice drinking +to him. This succeeded; he soon became so very civil and +conversable, that I began to think him quite a pleasant fellow. +This device I had learnt of the "Vicar of Wakefield," who always +made his hosts affable by inviting them to drink with him. It was +an expedient that suited me also in another point of view, as the +strong ale of England did not at all agree with me. + +This innkeeper called me sir; and he made his people lay a separate +table for himself and me; for he said he could see plainly I was a +gentleman. + +In our chat, we talked much of George the Second, who appeared to be +his favourite king, much more so than George the Third. And among +others things, we talked of the battle at Dettingen, of which he +knew many particulars. I was obliged also in my turn to tell him +stories of our great King of Prussia, and his numerous armies, and +also what sheep sold for in Prussia. After we had been thus talking +some time, chiefly on political matters, he all at once asked me if +I could blow the French horn? This he supposed I could do, only +because I came from Germany; for he said he remembered, when he was +a boy, a German had once stopped at the inn with his parents who +blew the French horn extremely well. He therefore fancied this was +a talent peculiar to the Germans. + +I removed this error, and we resumed our political topics, while his +children and servants at some distance listened with great respect +to our conversation. + +Thus I again spent a very agreeable evening; and when I had +breakfasted in the morning, my bill was not more than it had been at +Sutton. I at length reached the common before Derby on Friday +morning. The air was mild, and I seemed to feel myself uncommonly +cheerful and happy. About noon the romantic part of the country +began to open upon me. I came to a lofty eminence, where all at +once I saw a boundless prospect of hills before me, behind which +fresh hills seemed always to arise, and to be infinite. + +The ground now seemed undulatory, and to rise and fall like waves; +when at the summit of the rise I seemed to be first raised aloft, +and had an extensive view all around me, and the next moment, when I +went down the hill, I lost it. + +In the afternoon I saw Derby in the vale before me, and I was now an +hundred and twenty-six miles from London. Derby is but a small, and +not very considerable town. It was market-day when I got there, and +I was obliged to pass through a crowd of people: but there was here +no such odious curiosity, no offensive staring, as at Burton. At +this place too I took notice that I began to be always civilly bowed +to by the children of the villages through which I passed. + +From Derby to the baths of Matlock, which is one of the most +romantic situations, it was still fifteen miles. On my way thither, +I came to a long and extensive village, which I believe was called +Duffield. They here at least did not show me into the kitchen, but +into the parlour; and I dined on cold victuals. + +The prints and pictures which I have generally seen at these inns +are, I think, almost always prints of the royal family, oftentimes +in a group, where the king, as the father of the family, assembles +his children around him; or else I have found a map of London, and +not seldom the portrait of the King of Prussia; I have met with it +several times. You also sometimes see some of the droll prints of +Hogarth. The heat being now very great, I several times in this +village heard the commiserating exclamation of "Good God Almighty!" +by which the people expressed their pity for me, as being a poor +foot passenger. + +At night I again stopped at an inn on the road, about five miles +from Matlock. I could easily have reached Matlock, but I wished +rather to reserve the first view of the country till the next day +than to get there when it was dark. + +But I was not equally fortunate in this inn, as in the two former. +The kitchen was full of farmers, among whom I could not distinguish +the landlord, whose health I should otherwise immediately have +drank. It is true I heard a country girl who was also in the +kitchen, as often as she drank say, "Your health, gentlemen all!" +But I do not know how it was, I forgot to drink any one's health, +which I afterwards found was taken much amiss. The landlord drank +twice to my health sneeringly, as if to reprimand me for my +incivility; and then began to join the rest in ridiculing me, who +almost pointed at me with their fingers. I was thus obliged for a +time to serve the farmers as a laughing-stock, till at length one of +them compassionately said, "Nay, nay, we must do him no harm, for he +is a stranger." The landlord, I suppose, to excuse himself, as if +he thought he had perhaps before gone too far said, "Ay, God forbid +we should hurt any stranger," and ceased his ridicule; but when I +was going to drink his health, he slighted and refused my attention, +and told me, with a sneer, all I had to do was to seat myself in the +chimney-corner, and not trouble myself about the rest of the world. +The landlady seemed to pity me, and so she led me into another room +where I could be alone, saying, "What wicked people!" + +I left this unfriendly roof early the next morning, and now quickly +proceeded to Matlock. + +The extent of my journey I had now resolved should be the great +cavern near Castleton, in the high Peak of Derbyshire. It was about +twenty miles beyond Matlock. + +The country here had quite a different appearance from that at +Windsor and Richmond. Instead of green meadows and pleasant hills, +I now saw barren mountains and lofty rocks; instead of fine living +hedges, the fields and pasture lands here were fenced with a wall of +grey stone; and of this very same stone, which is here everywhere to +be found in plenty, all the houses are built in a very uniform and +patriarchal manner, inasmuch as the rough stones are almost without +any preparation placed one upon another, and compose four walls, so +that in case of necessity, a man might here without much trouble +build himself a house. At Derby the houses seem to be built of the +same stone. + +The situation of Matlock itself surpassed every idea I had formed of +it. On the right were some elegant houses for the bathing company, +and lesser cottages suspended like birds' nests in a high rock; to +the left, deep in the bottom, there was a fine bold river, which was +almost hid from the eye by a majestic arch formed by high trees, +which hung over it. A prodigious stone wall extended itself above a +mile along its border, and all along there is a singularly romantic +and beautiful secret walk, sheltered and adorned by many beautiful +shrubs. + +The steep rock was covered at the top with green bushes, and now and +then a sheep, or a cow, separated from the grazing flock, came to +the edge of the precipice, and peeped over it. + +I have got, in Milton's "Paradise Lost," which I am reading +thoroughly through, just to the part where he describes Paradise, +when I arrived here and the following passage, which I read at the +brink of the river, had a most striking and pleasing effect on me. +The landscape here described was as exactly similar to that I saw +before me, as if the poet had taken it from hence + + +"--delicious Paradise, +Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green, +As with a rural mound, the champion head +Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides +With thicket overgrown, grotesque and wild, +Access denied."--Book IV. v. 132. + + +From Matlock Baths you go over Matlock Bridge, to the little town of +Matlock itself, which, in reality, scarcely deserves the name of a +village, as it consists of but a few and miserable houses. There is +here, on account of the baths, a number of horses and carriages, and +a great thoroughfare. From hence I came through some villages to a +small town of the name of Bakewell. The whole country in this part +is hilly and romantic. Often my way led me, by small passes, over +astonishing eminences, where, in the deep below me, I saw a few huts +or cottages lying. The fencing of the fields with grey stone gave +the whole a wild and not very promising appearance. The hills were +in general not wooded, but naked and barren; and you saw the flocks +at a distance grazing on their summit. + +As I was coming through one of the villages, I heard a great +farmer's boy eagerly ask another if he did not think I was a +Frenchman. It seemed as if he had been waiting some time to see the +wonder; for, he spoke as though his wish was now accomplished. + +When I was past Bakewell, a place far inferior to Derby, I came by +the side of a broad river, to a small eminence, where a fine +cultivated field lay before me. This field, all at once, made an +indescribable and very pleasing impression on me, which at first, I +could not account for; till I recollected having seen, in my +childhood, near the village where I was educated, a situation +strikingly similar to that now before me here in England. + +This field, as if it had been in Germany, was not enclosed with +hedges, but every spot in it was uninterruptedly diversified with +all kinds of crops and growths of different green and yellowish +colours, which gave the whole a most pleasing effect; but besides +this large field, the general view of the country, and a thousand +other little circumstances which I cannot now particularly +enumerate, served to bring back to my recollection the years of my +youth. + +Here I rested myself a while, and when I was going on again I +thought of the place of my residence, on all my acquaintances, and +not a little on you, my dearest friend, and imagined what you would +think and say, if you were to see your friend thus wandering here +all alone, totally unknown, and in a foreign land. And at that +moment I first seriously felt the idea of distance, and the thought +that I was now in England, so very far from all I loved, or who +loved me, produced in me such sensations as I have not often felt. + +It was perhaps the same with you, my dearest friend, when on our +journey to Hamburg we drove from Perlsbeg, to your birthplace, the +village of Boberow; where, among the farmers, you again found your +own playmates, one of whom was now become the bailiff of the place. +On your asking them whether they knew you, one and all of them +answered so heartily, "O, yes, yes--why, your are Master Frederic." +The pedantic school-master, you will remember, was not so frank. He +expressed himself in the stiff town phrase of, "He had not the +honour of knowing you, as during your residence in that village, +when a child, he had not been in loco." + +I now came through a little place of the name of Ashford, and wished +to reach the small village of Wardlow, which was only three miles +distant, when two men came after me, at a distance, whom I had +already seen at Matlock, who called to me to wait for them. These +were the only foot passengers since Mr. Maud, who had offered to +walk with me. + +The one was a saddler, and wore a short brown jacket and an apron, +with a round hat. The other was very decently dressed, but a very +silent man, whereas the saddler was quite talkative. + +I listened with astonishment when I heard him begin to speak of +Homer, of Horace, and of Virgil; and still more when he quoted +several passages, by memory, from each of these authors, pronouncing +the words, and laying his emphasis, with as much propriety as I +could possibly have expected, had he been educated at Cambridge or +at Oxford. He advised me not to go to Wardlow, where I should find +bad accommodations, but rather a few miles to Tideswell, where he +lived. This name is, by a singular abbreviation, pronounced Tidsel, +the same as Birmingham is called by the common people Brummidgeham. + +We halted at a small ale-house on the road-side, where the saddler +stopped to drink and talk, and from whence he was in no haste to +depart. He had the generosity and honour, however, to pay my share +of the reckoning, because, as he said, he had brought me hither. + +At no great distance from the house we came to a rising ground, +where my philosophical saddler made me observe a prospect, which was +perhaps the only one of the kind in England. Below us was a hollow, +not unlike a huge kettle, hollowed out of the surrounding mass of +earth; and at the bottom of it a little valley, where the green +meadow was divided by a small rivulet, that ran in serpentine +windings, its banks graced with the most inviting walks; behind a +small winding, there is just seen a house where one of the most +distinguished inhabitants of this happy vale, a great philosopher, +lives retired, dedicating almost all his time to his favourite +studies. He has transplanted a number of foreign plants into his +grounds. My guide fell into almost a poetic rapture as he pointed +out to me the beauties of this vale, while our third companion, who +grew tired, became impatient at our tediousness. + +We were now led by a steep road to the vale, through which we +passed, and then ascended again among the hills on the other side. + +Not far from Tideswell our third companion left us, as he lived in a +neighbouring place. As we now at length saw Tideswell lying before +us in the vale, the saddler began to give me an account of his +family, adding, by way of episode, that he never quarrelled with his +wife, nor had ever once threatened her with his fist, much less, +ever lifted it against her. For his own sake, he said, he never +called her names, nor gave her the lie. I must here observe, that +it is the greatest offence you can give any one in England to say to +him, YOU LIE. + +To be called a LIAR is a still greater affront, and you ARE A DAMNED +LIAR, is the very acme of vulgar abuse. + +Just as in Germany, no one will bear the name of a SCOUNDREL, or +KNAVE, or as in all quarrels, the bestowing such epithets on our +adversary is the signal for fighting, so the term of a LIAR in +England is the most offensive, and is always resented by blows. A +man would never forgive himself, nor be forgiven, who could bear to +be called a LIAR. + +Our Jackey in London once looked at me with astonishment, on my +happening to say to him in a joke, you ARE A LIAR. I assure you I +had much to do before I could pacify him. + +If one may form a judgment of the character of the whole nation, +from such little circumstances as this, I must say this rooted +hatred of the word liar appears to me to be no bad trait in the +English. + +But to return to my travelling companion, who further told me that +he was obliged to earn his livelihood, at some distance from home, +and that he was now returning for the first time, for these two +months, to his family. + +He showed me a row of trees near the town which he said his father +had planted, and which, therefore, he never could look at but with +emotion, though he passed them often as he went backwards and +forwards on his little journeys to and from his birthplace. His +father, he added, had once been a rich man, but had expended all his +fortune to support one son. Unfortunately for himself as well as +his family, his father had gone to America and left the rest of his +children poor, notwithstanding which, his memory was still dear to +him, and he was always affected by the sight of these trees. + +Tideswell consists of two rows of low houses, built of rough grey +stone. My guide, immediately on our entrance into the place, bade +me take notice of the church, which was very handsome, and +notwithstanding its age, had still some pretensions to be considered +as an edifice built in the modern taste. + +He now asked me whether he should show me to a great inn or to a +cheap one, and as I preferred the latter, he went with me himself to +a small public-house, and very particularly recommended me to their +care as his fellow-traveller, and a clever man not without learning. + +The people here also endeavoured to accommodate me most +magnificently, and for this purpose gave me some toasted cheese, +which was Cheshire cheese roasted and half melted at the fire. +This, in England it seems, is reckoned good eating, but, +unfortunately for me, I could not touch a bit of it; I therefore +invited my landlord to partake of it, and he indeed seemed to feast +on it. As I neither drank brandy nor ale, he told me I lived far +too sparingly for a foot traveller; he wondered how I had strength +to walk so well and so far. + +I avail myself of this opportunity to observe that the English +innkeepers are in general great ale drinkers, and for this reason +most of them are gross and corpulent; in particular they are plump +and rosy in their faces. I once heard it said of one of them, that +the extravasated claret in his phiz might well remind one, as +Falstaff says of Bardolph, of hell-fire. + +The next morning my landlady did me the honour to drink coffee with +me, but helped me very sparingly to milk and sugar. It was Sunday, +and I went with my landlord to a barber, on whose shop was written +"Shaving for a penny." There were a great many inhabitants +assembled there, who took me for a gentleman, on account, I suppose, +of my hat, which I had bought in London for a guinea, and which they +all admired. I considered this as a proof that pomp and finery had +not yet become general thus far from London. + +You frequently find in England, at many of the houses of the common +people, printed papers, with sundry apt and good moral maxims and +rules fastened against the room door, just as we find them in +Germany. On such wretched paper some of the most delightful and the +finest sentiments may be read, such as would do honour to any writer +of any country. + +For instance, I read among other things this golden rule on such an +ordinary printed paper stuck against a room door, "Make no +comparisons;" and if you consider how many quarrels, and how much +mischief arise in the world from odious comparisons of the merits of +one with the merits of another, the most delightful lessons of +morality are contained in the few words of the above-mentioned rule. + +A man to whom I gave sixpence conducted me out of the town to the +road leading to Castleton, which was close to a wall of stones +confusedly heaped one upon another, as I have before described. The +whole country was hilly and rough, and the ground covered with brown +heath. Here and there some sheep were feeding. + +I made a little digression to a hill to the left, where I had a +prospect awfully beautiful, composed almost entirely of naked rocks, +far and near, among which, those that were entirely covered with +black heath made a most tremendous appearance. + +I was now a hundred and seventy miles from London, when I ascended +one of the highest hills, and all at once perceived a beautiful vale +below me, which was traversed by rivers and brooks and enclosed on +all sides by hills. In this vale lay Castleton, a small town with +low houses, which takes its name from an old castle, whose ruins are +still to be seen here. + +A narrow path, which wound itself down the side of the rock, led me +through the vale into the street of Castleton, where I soon found an +inn, and also soon dined. After dinner I made the best of my way to +the cavern. + +A little rivulet, which runs through the middle of the town, led me +to its entrance. + +I stood here a few moments, full of wonder and astonishment at the +amazing height of the steep rock before me, covered on each side +with ivy and other shrubs. At its summit are the decayed wall and +towers of an ancient castle which formerly stood on this rock, and +at its foot the monstrous aperture or mouth to the entrance of the +cavern, where it is pitch dark when one looks down even at mid-day. + +As I was standing here full of admiration, I perceived, at the +entrance of the cavern, a man of a rude and rough appearance, who +asked me if I wished to see the Peak, and the echo strongly +reverberated his coarse voice. + +Answering as I did in the affirmative, he next further asked me if I +should want to be carried to the other side of the stream, telling +me at the same time what the sum would be which I must pay for it. + +This man had, along with his black stringy hair and his dirty and +tattered clothes, such a singularly wild and infernal look, that he +actually struck me as a real Charon. His voice, and the questions +he asked me, were not of a kind to remove this notion, so that, far +from its requiring any effort of imagination, I found it not easy to +avoid believing that, at length, I had actually reached Avernus, was +about to cross Acheron, and to be ferried by Charon. + +I had no sooner agreed to his demand, than he told me all I had to +do was boldly to follow him, and thus we entered the cavern. + +To the left, in the entrance of the cavern, lay the trunk of a tree +that had been cut down, on which several of the boys of the town +were playing. + +Our way seemed to be altogether on a descent, though not steep, so +that the light which came in at the mouth of the cavern near the +entrance gradually forsook us, and when we had gone forward a few +steps farther, I was astonished by a sight which, of all other, I +here the least expected. I perceived to the right, in the hollow of +the cavern, a whole subterranean village, where the inhabitants, on +account of its being Sunday, were resting from their work, and with +happy and cheerful looks were sitting at the doors of their huts +along with their children. + +We had scarcely passed these small subterranean houses when I +perceived a number of large wheels, on which on week days these +human moles, the inhabitants of the cavern, make ropes. + +I fancied I here saw the wheel of Ixion, and the incessant labour of +the Danaides. + +The opening through which the light came seemed, as we descended, +every moment to become less and less, and the darkness at every step +to increase, till at length only a few rays appeared, as if darting +through a crevice, and just tinging the small clouds of smoke which, +at dusk, raised themselves to the mouth of the cavern. + +This gradual growth, or increase of darkness, awakens in a +contemplative mind a soft melancholy. As you go down the gentle +descent of the cavern, you can hardly help fancying the moment is +come when, without pain or grief, the thread of life is about to be +snapped; and that you are now going thus quietly to that land of +peace where trouble is no more. + +At length the great cavern in the rock closed itself, in the same +manner as heaven and earth seem to join each other, when we came to +a little door, where an old woman came out of one of the huts, and +brought two candles, of which we each took one. + +My guide now opened the door, which completely shut out the faint +glimmering of light, which, till then, it was still possible to +perceive, and led us to the inmost centre of this dreary temple of +old Chaos and Night, as if, till now, we had only been traversing +the outer courts. The rock was here so low, that we were obliged to +stoop very much for some few steps in order to get through; but how +great was my astonishment, when we had passed this narrow passage +and again stood upright, at once to perceive, as well as the feeble +light of our candles would permit, the amazing length, breadth, and +height of the cavern; compared to which the monstrous opening +through which we had already passed was nothing! + +After we had wandered here more than an hour, as beneath a dark and +dusky sky, on a level, sandy soil, the rock gradually lowered +itself, and we suddenly found ourselves on the edge of a broad +river, which, from the glimmering of our candles amid the total +darkness, suggested sundry interesting reflections. To the side of +this river a small boat was moored, with some straw in its bottom. +Into this boat my guide desired me to step, and lay myself down in +it quite flat; because, as he said, towards the middle of the river, +the rock would almost touch the water. + +When I had laid myself down as directed, he himself jumped into the +water, and drew the boat after him. + +All around us was one still, solemn, and deadly silence; and as the +boat advanced, the rock seemed to stoop, and come nearer and nearer +to us, till at length it nearly touched my face; and as I lay, I +could hardly hold the candle upright. I seemed to myself to be in a +coffin rather than in a boat, as I had no room to stir hand or foot +till we had passed this frightful strait, and the rock rose again on +the other side, where my guide once more handed me ashore. + +The cavern was now become, all at once, broad and high: and then +suddenly it was again low and narrow. + +I observed on both sides as we passed along a prodigious number of +great and small petrified plants and animals, which, however, we +could not examine, unless we had been disposed to spend some days in +the cavern. + +And thus we arrived at the opposite side, at the second river or +stream, which, however, was not so broad as the first, as one may +see across it to the other side; across this stream my guide carried +me on his shoulders, because there was here no boat to carry us +over. + +From thence we only went a few steps farther, when we came to a very +small piece of water which extended itself lengthways, and led us to +the end of the cavern. + +The path along the edge of this water was wet and slippery, and +sometimes so very narrow, that one can hardly set one foot before +the other. + +Notwithstanding, I wandered with pleasure on this subterranean +shore, and was regaling myself with the interesting contemplation of +all these various wonderful objects, in this land of darkness and +shadow of death, when, all at once, something like music at a +distance sounded in mine ears. + +I instantly stopped, full of astonishment, and eagerly asked my +guide what this might mean? He answered, "Only have patience, and +you shall soon see." + +But as we advanced, the sounds of harmony seemed to die away; the +noise became weaker and weaker; and at length it seemed to sink into +a gentle hissing or hum, like distant drops of falling rain. + +And how great was my amazement when, ere long, I actually saw and +felt a violent shower of rain falling from the rock, as from a thick +cloud, whose drops, which now fell on our candles, had caused that +same melancholy sound which I had heard at a distance. + +This was what is here called a mizzling rain, which fell from the +ceiling or roof of the cavern, through the veins of the rock. + +We did not dare to approach too near with our candles, as they might +easily have been extinguished by the falling drops; and so we +perhaps have been forced to seek our way back in vain. + +We continued our march therefore along the side of the water, and +often saw on the sides large apertures in the rock, which seemed to +be new or subordinate caverns, all which we passed without looking +into. At length my guide prepared me for one of the finest sights +we had yet seen, which we should now soon behold. + +And we had hardly gone on a few paces, when we entered what might +easily have been taken for a majestic temple, with lofty arches, +supported by beautiful pillars, formed by the plastic hand of some +ingenious artist. + +This subterranean temple, in the structure of which no human hand +had borne a part, appeared to me at that moment to surpass all the +most stupendous buildings in the world, in point of regularity, +magnificence, and beauty. + +Full of admiration and reverence, here, even in the inmost recesses +of nature, I saw the majesty of the Creator displayed; and before I +quitted this temple, here, in this solemn silence and holy gloom, I +thought it would be a becoming act of true religion to adore, as I +cordially did, the God of nature. + +We now drew near the end of our journey. Our faithful companion, +the water, guided us through the remainder of the cavern, where the +rock is arched for the last time, and then sinks till it touches the +water, which here forms a semicircle, and thus the cavern closes, so +that no mortal can go one step farther. + +My guide here again jumped into the water, swam a little way under +the rock, and then came back quite wet, to show me that it was +impossible to go any further, unless this rock could be blown up +with powder, and a second cavern opened. I now thought all we had +to do was to return the nearest way; but there were new difficulties +still to encounter, and new scenes to behold still more beautiful +than any I had yet seen. + +My guide now turned and went back towards the left, where I followed +him through a large opening in the rock. + +And here he first asked me if I could determine to creep a +considerable distance through the rock, where it nearly touched the +ground. Having consented to do so, he told me I had only to follow +him, warning me at the same time to take great care of my candle. + +Thus we crept on our hands and feet, on the wet and muddy ground, +through the opening in the rock, which was often scarcely large +enough for us to get through with our bodies. + +When at length we had got through this troublesome passage, I saw in +the cavern a steep hill, which was so high that it seemed to lose +itself as in a cloud, in the summit of the rock. + +This hill was so wet and slippery, that as soon as I attempted to +ascend, I fell down. My guide, however, took hold of my hand and +told me I had only resolutely to follow him. + +We now ascended such an amazing height, and there were such +precipices on each side, that it makes me giddy even now when I +think of it. + +When we at length had gained the summit, where the hill seemed to +lose itself in the rock, my guide placed me where I could stand +firm, and told me to stay there quietly. In the meantime he himself +went down the hill with his candle, and left me alone. + +I lost sight of him for some moments, but at length I perceived, not +him, indeed, but his candle, quite in the bottom, from whence it +seemed to shine like a bright and twinkling star. + +After I had enjoyed this indescribably beautiful sight for some +time, my guide came back, and carried me safely down the hill again +on his shoulders. And as I now stood below, he went up and let his +candle shine again through an opening of the rock, while I covered +mine with my hand; and it was now as if on a dark night a bright +star shone down upon me, a sight which, in point of beauty, far +surpassed all that I had ever seen. + +Our journey was now ended, and we returned, not without trouble and +difficulty, through the narrow passage. We again entered the temple +we had a short time before left; again heard the pattering of the +rain, which sounded as rain when we were near it, but which at a +distance seemed a sonorous, dull, and melancholy hum; and now again +we returned across the quiet streams through the capacious entrance +of the cavern to the little door, where we had before taken our +leave of daylight, which, after so long a darkness, we now again +hailed with joy. + +Before my guide opened the door, he told me I should now have a view +of a sight that would surpass all the foregoing. I found that he +was in the right, for when he had only half opened the door, it +really seemed as if I was looking into Elysium. + +The day seemed to be gradually breaking, and night and darkness to +have vanished. At a distance you again just saw the smoke of the +cottages, and then the cottages themselves; and as we ascended we +saw the boys still playing around the hewn trunk, till at length the +reddish purple stripes in the sky faintly appeared through the mouth +of the hole; yet, just as we came out, the sun was setting in the +west. + +Thus had I spent nearly the whole afternoon till it was quite +evening in the cavern; and when I looked at myself, I was, as to my +dress, not much unlike my guide; my shoes scarcely hung to my feet, +they were so soft and so torn by walking so long on the damp sand, +and the hard pointed stones. + +I paid no more than half-a-crown for seeing all that I had seen, +with a trifle to my guide; for it seems he does not get the half- +crown, but is obliged to account for it to his master, who lives +very comfortably on the revenue he derives from this cavern, and is +able to keep a man to show it to strangers. + +When I came home I sent for a shoemaker. There was one who lived +just opposite; and he immediately came to examine my shoes. He told +me he could not sufficiently wonder at the badness of the work, for +they were shoes I had brought from Germany. Notwithstanding this, +he undertook, as he had no new ones ready, to mend them for me as +well as he could. This led me to make a very agreeable acquaintance +with this shoemaker; for when I expressed to him my admiration of +the cavern, it pleased him greatly that in so insignificant a place +as Castleton there should be anything which could inspire people +with astonishment, who came from such distant countries; and +thereupon offered to take a walk with me, to show me, at no great +distance, the famous mountain called Mam Tor, which is reckoned +among the things of most note in Derbyshire. + +This mountain is covered with verdure on its summit and sides; but +at the end it is a steep precipice. The middle part does not, like +other mountains, consist of rock, but of a loose earth, which gives +way, and either rolls from the top of the precipice in little +pieces, or tears itself loose in large masses, and falls with a +thundering crash, thus forming a hill on its side which is +continually increasing. + +From these circumstances probably is derived the name of Mam Tor, +which literally signifies Mother Hill; for Tor is either an +abbreviation of, or the old word for, Tower, and means not only a +lofty building, but any eminence. Mam is a familiar term, that +obtains in all languages, for Mother; and this mountain, like a +mother, produces several other small hills. + +The inhabitants here have a superstitious notion that this mountain, +notwithstanding its daily loss, never decreases, but always keeps +its own, and remains the same. + +My companion told me a shocking history of an inhabitant of +Castleton who laid a wager that he would ascend this steep +precipice. + +As the lower part is not quite so steep, but rather slanting +upwards, he could get good hold in this soft loose earth, and +clambered up, without looking round. At length he had gained more +than half the ascent, and was just at the part where it projects and +overlooks its basis. From this astonishing height the unfortunate +man cast down his eyes, whilst the threatening point of the rock +hung over him, with tottering masses of earth. + +He trembled all over, and was just going to relinquish his hold, not +daring to move backwards or forwards; in this manner he hung for +some time between heaven and earth, surrounded by despair. However, +his sinews would bear it no longer, and therefore, in an effort of +despair, he once more collected all his strength and got hold of +first one loose stone, and then another, all of which would have +failed him had he not immediately caught hold of another. By these +means, however, at length, to his own, as well as to the +astonishment of all the spectators, he avoided almost instant and +certain death, safely gained the summit of the hill, and won his +wager. + +I trembled as I heard this relation, seeing the mountain and the +precipice in question so near to me, I could not help figuring to +myself the man clambering up it. + +Not far from hence is Elden Hole, a cavity or pit, or hole in the +earth, of such a monstrous depth, that if you throw in a pebble +stone, and lay your ear to the edge of the hole, you hear it falling +for a long time. + +As soon as it comes to the bottom it emits a sound as if some one +were uttering a loud sigh. The first noise it makes on its being +first parted with affects the ear like a subterranean thunder. This +rumbling or thundering noise continues for some time, and then +decreases as the stone falls against first one hard rock and then +another at a greater and a greater depth, and at length, when it has +for some time been falling, the noise stops with a kind of whizzing +or a hissing murmur. The people have also a world of superstitious +stories relating to this place, one of which is that some person +once threw into it a goose, which appeared again at two miles' +distance in the great cavern I have already mentioned, quite +stripped of its feathers. But I will not stuff my letters with many +of these fabulous histories. + +They reckon that they have in Derbyshire seven wonders of nature, of +which this Elden Hole, the hill of Mam Tor, and the great cavern I +have been at are the principal. + +The remaining four wonders are Pool's Hole, which has some +resemblance to this that I have seen, as I am told, for I did not +see it; next St. Anne's Well, where there are two springs which rise +close to each other, the one of which is boiling hot, the other as +cold as ice; the next is Tide's Well, not far from the town of that +name through which I passed. It is a spring or well, which in +general flows or runs underground imperceptibly, and then all at +once rushes forth with a mighty rumbling or subterranean noise, +which is said to have something musical in it, and overflows its +banks; lastly Chatsworth, a palace or seat belonging to the Dukes of +Devonshire, at the foot of a mountain whose summit is covered with +eternal snow, and therefore always gives one the idea of winter, at +the same time that the most delightful spring blooms at its foot. I +can give you no further description of these latter wonders, as I +only know them by the account given me by others. They were the +subjects with which my guide, the shoemaker, entertained me during +our walk. + +While this man was showing me everything within his knowledge that +he thought most interesting, he often expressed his admiration on +thinking how much of the world I had already seen; and the idea +excited in him so lively a desire to travel, that I had much to do +to reason him out of it. He could not help talking of it the whole +evening, and again and again protested that, had he not got a wife +and child, he would set off in the morning at daybreak along with +me; for here in Castleton there is but little to be earned by the +hardest labour or even genius. Provisions are not cheap, and in +short, there is no scope for exertion. This honest man was not yet +thirty. + +As we returned, he wished yet to show me the lead mines, but it was +too late. Yet, late as it was, he mended my shoes the same evening, +and I must do him the justice to add in a very masterly manner. + +But I am sorry to tell you I have brought a cough from the cavern +that does not at all please me; indeed, it occasions me no little +pain, which makes me suppose that one must needs breathe a very +unwholesome damp air in this cavern. But then, were that the case, +I do not comprehend how my friend Charon should have held it out so +long and so well as he has. + +This morning I was up very early in order to view the ruins, and to +climb a high hill alongside of them. The ruins are directly over +the mouth of the hole on the hill, which extends itself some +distance over the cavern beyond the ruins, and always widens, though +here in front it is so narrow that the building takes up the whole. + +From the ruins all around there is nothing but steep rock, so that +there is no access to it but from the town, where a crooked path +from the foot of the hill is hewn in the rock, but is also +prodigiously steep. + +The spot on which the ruins stand is now all overgrown with nettles +and thistles. Formerly, it is said, there was a bridge from this +mountain to the opposite one, of which one may yet discover some +traces, as in the vale which divides the two rocks we still find the +remains of some of the arches on which the bridge rested. This +vale, which lies at the back of the ruins and probably over the +cavern, is called the Cave's Way, and is one of the greatest +thoroughfares to the town. In the part at which, at some distance, +it begins to descend between these two mountains, its descent is so +gentle that one is not at all tired in going down it; but if you +should happen to miss the way between the two rocks and continue on +the heights, you are in great danger of falling from the rock, which +every moment becomes steeper and steeper. + +The mountain on which the ruins stand is everywhere rocky. The one +on the left of it, which is separated by the vale, is perfectly +verdant and fertile, and on its summit the pasture hands are divided +by stones, piled up in the form of a wall. This green mountain is +at least three times as high as that on which the ruins stand. + +I began to clamber up the green mountain, which is also pretty +steep; and when I had got more than half way up without having once +looked back, I was nearly in the same situation as the adventurer +who clambered up Mam Tor Hill, for when I looked round, I found my +eye had not been trained to view, unmoved, so prodigious a height. +Castleton with the surrounding country lay below me like a map, the +roofs of the houses seemed almost close to the ground, and the +mountain with the ruins itself seemed to be lying at my feet. + +I grew giddy at the prospect, and it required all my reason to +convince me that I was in no danger, and that, at all events, I +could only scramble down the green turf in the same manner as I had +got up. At length I seemed to grow accustomed to this view till it +really gave me pleasure, and I now climbed quite to the summit and +walked over the meadows, and at length reached the way which +gradually descends between the two mountains. + +At the top of the green mountain I met with some neat country girls, +who were milking their cows, and coming this same way with their +milk-pails on their heads. + +This little rural party formed a beautiful group when some of them +with their milk-pails took shelter, as it began to rain, under a +part of the rock, beneath which they sat down on natural stone +benches, and there, with pastoral innocence and glee, talked and +laughed till the shower was over. + +My way led me into the town, from whence I now write, and which I +intend leaving in order to begin my journey back to London, but I +think I shall not now pursue quite the same road. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + + +Northampton. + +When I took my leave of the honest shoemaker in Castleton, who would +have rejoiced to have accompanied me, I resolved to return, not by +Tideswell, but by Wardlow, which is nearer. + +I there found but one single inn, and in it only a landlady, who +told me that her husband was at work in the lead mines, and that the +cavern at Castleton, and all that I had yet seen, was nothing to be +compared to these lead mines. Her husband, she said, would be happy +to show them to me. + +When I came to offer to pay her for my dinner she made some +difficulty about it, because, as I had neither drank ale or brandy, +by the selling of which she chiefly made her livelihood, she said +she could not well make out my bill. On this I called for a mug of +ale (which I did not drink) in order to enable me the better to +settle her reckoning. + +At this same time I saw my innkeeper of Tideswell, who, however, had +not, like me, come on foot, but prancing proudly on horseback. + +As I proceeded, and saw the hills rise before me, which were still +fresh in my memory, having so recently become acquainted with them +in my journey thither, I was just reading the passage in Milton +relative to the creation, in which the Angel describes to Adam how +the water subsided, and + + +"Immediately the mountains huge appear +Emergent, and their broad bare backs upheave +Into the clouds, their tops ascend the sky." +Book VII., 1. 285. + + +It seemed to me, while reading this passage, as if everything around +me were in the act of creating, and the mountains themselves +appeared to emerge or rise, so animated was the scene. + +I had felt something not very unlike this on my journey hither, as I +was sitting opposite to a hill, whose top was covered with trees, +and was reading in Milton the sublime description of the combat of +the angels, where the fallen angels are made, with but little regard +to chronology, to attack their antagonists with artillery and +cannon, as if it had been a battle on earth of the present age. The +better angels, however, defend themselves against their antagonists +by each seizing on some hill by the tufts on its summit, tearing +them up by the root, and thus bearing them in their hands to fling +them at their enemy: + + +"--they ran, they flew, +From their foundation loos'ning to and fro, +They pluck'd the seated hills with all their load, +Rocks, waters, woods, and by the shaggy tops +Uplifting bore them in their hands--." +Book VI., 1. 642. + + +I seemed to fancy to myself that I actually saw an angel there +standing and plucking up a hill before me and shaking it in the air. + +When I came to the last village before I got to Matlock, as it was +now evening and dark, I determined to spend the night there, and +inquired for an inn, which, I was told, was at the end of the +village; and so on I walked, and kept walking till near midnight +before I found this same inn. The place seemed to have no end. On +my journey to Castleton I must either not have passed through this +village or not have noticed its length. Much tired, and not a +little indisposed, I at length arrived at the inn, where I sat +myself down by the fire in the kitchen, and asked for something to +eat. As they told me I could not have a bed here, I replied I +absolutely would not be driven away, for that if nothing better +could be had I would sit all night by the fire. This I actually +prepared to do, and laid my head on the table in order to sleep. + +When the people in the kitchen thought that I was asleep, I heard +them taking about me, and guessing who or what I might be. One +woman alone seemed to take my part, and said, "I daresay he is a +well-bred gentleman;" another scouted that notion, merely because, +as she said, "I had come on foot;" and "depend on it," said she, "he +is some poor travelling creature!" My ears yet ring with the +contemptuous tone with which she uttered, "poor travelling +creature!" It seems to express all the wretchedness of one who +neither has house nor home--a vagabond and outcast of society. + +At last, when these unfeeling people saw that I was determined, at +all events, to stay there all night, they gave me a bed, but not +till I had long given up all hopes of getting one. And in the +morning, when they asked me a shilling for it, I gave them half-a- +crown, adding, with something of an air, that I would have no +change. This I did, though perhaps foolishly, to show them that I +was not quite "A POOR CREATURE." And now they took leave of me with +great civility and many excuses; and I now continued my journey much +at my ease. + +When I had passed Matlock I did not go again towards Derby, but took +the road to the left towards Nottingham. Here the hills gradually +disappeared; and my journey now lay through meadow grounds and +cultivated fields. + +I must here inform you that the word Peake, or Pike, in old English +signifies a point or summit. The Peak of Derbyshire, therefore, +means that part of the country which is hilly, or where the +mountains are highest. + +Towards noon I again came to an eminence, where I found but one +single solitary inn, which had a singular inscription on its sign. +It was in rhyme, and I remember only that it ended with these words, +"Refresh, and then go on." "Entertainment for man and horse." This +I have seen on several signs, but the most common, at all the lesser +ale-houses, is, "A. B. C. or D. dealer in foreign spirituous +liquors." + +I dined here on cold meat and salad. This, or else eggs and salad, +was my usual supper, and my dinner too, at the inns at which I +stopped. It was but seldom that I had the good fortune to get +anything hot. The salad, for which they brought me all the +ingredients, I was always obliged to dress myself. This, I believe, +is always done in England. + +The road was now tolerably pleasant, but the country seemed here to +be uniform and unvaried, even to dulness. However, it was a very +fine evening, and as I passed through a village just before sunset +several people who met me accosted me with a phrase which, at first, +I thought odd, but which I now think civil, if not polite. As if I +could possibly want information on such a point as they passed me, +they all very courteously told me, "'Twas a fine evening," or "A +pleasant night." + +I have also often met people who as they passed me obligingly and +kindly asked: "How do you do?" To which unexpected question from +total strangers I have now learned to answer, "Pretty well, I thank +you; how do you do?" This manner of address must needs appear very +singular to a foreigner, who is all at once asked by a person whom +he has never seen before how he does. + +After I had passed through this village I came to a green field, at +the side of which I met with an ale-house. The mistress was sitting +at the window. I asked her if I could stay the night there. She +said No!" and shut the window in my face. + +This unmannerliness recalled to my recollection the many receptions +of this kind to which I have now so often been exposed, and I could +not forbear uttering aloud my indignation at the inhospitality of +the English. This harsh sentiment I soon corrected, however, as I +walked on, by recollecting, and placing in the opposite scale, the +unbounded and unequalled generosity of this nation, and also the +many acts of real and substantial kindness which I had myself +experienced in it. + +I at last came to another inn, where there was written on the sign: +"The Navigation Inn," because it is the depot, or storehouse, of the +colliers of the Trent. + +A rougher or ruder kind of people I never saw than these colliers, +whom I here met assembled in the kitchen, and in whose company I was +obliged to spend the evening. + +Their language, their dress, their manners were, all of them, +singularly vulgar and disagreeable, and their expressions still more +so, for they hardly spoke a word, without adding "a G-d d-- me" to +it, and thus cursing, quarrelling, drinking, singing, and fighting, +they seemed to be pleased, and to enjoy the evening. I must do them +the justice to add, that none of them, however, at all molested me +or did me any harm. On the contrary, every one again and again +drank my health, and I took care not to forget to drink theirs in +return. The treatment of my host at Matlock was still fresh in my +memory, and so, as often as I drank, I never omitted saying, "Your +healths, gentlemen all!" + +When two Englishmen quarrel, the fray is carried on, and decided, +rather by actions than by words; though loud and boisterous, they do +not say much, and frequently repeat the same thing over and over +again, always clinching it with an additional "G-- d-- you!" Their +anger seems to overpower their utterance, and can vent only by +coming to blows. + +The landlady, who sat in the kitchen along with all this goodly +company, was nevertheless well dressed, and a remarkably well- +looking woman. As soon as I had supped I hastened to bed, but could +not sleep; my quondam companions, the colliers, made such a noise +the whole night through. In the morning, when I got up, there was +not cue to be seen nor heard. + +I was now only a few miles from Nottingham, where I arrived towards +noon. + +This, of all the towns I have yet seen, except London, seemed to me +to be one of the best, and is undoubtedly the cleanest. Everything +here wore a modern appearance, and a large place in the centre, +scarcely yielded to a London square in point of beauty. + +From the town a charming footpath leads you across the meadows to +the high-road, where there is a bridge over the Trent. Not far from +this bridge was an inn, where I dined, though I could get nothing +but bread-and-butter, of which I desired to have a toast made. + +Nottingham lies high, and made a beautiful appearance at a distance, +with its neat high houses, red roofs, and its lofty steeples. I +have not seen so fine a prospect in any other town in England. + +I now came through several villages, as Ruddington, Bradmore, and +Buny, to Castol, where I stayed all night. + +This whole afternoon I heard the ringing of bells in many of the +villages. Probably it is some holiday which they thus celebrate. +It was cloudy weather, and I felt myself not at all well, and in +these circumstances this ringing discomposed me still more, and made +me at length quite low-spirited and melancholy. + +At Castol there were three inns close to each other, in which, to +judge only from the outside of the houses, little but poverty was to +be expected. In the one at which I at length stopped there was only +a landlady, a sick butcher, and a sick carter, both of whom had come +to stay the night. This assemblage of sick persons gave me the idea +of an hospital, and depressed me still more. I felt some degree of +fever, was very restless all night, and so I kept my bed very late +the next morning, until the woman of the house came and aroused me +by saying she had been uneasy on my account. And now I formed the +resolution to go to Leicester in the post-coach. + +I was now only four miles from Loughborough, a small, and I think, +not a very handsome town, where I arrived late at noon, and dined at +the last inn on the road that leads to Leicester. Here again, far +beyond expectation, the people treated me like a gentleman, and let +me dine in the parlour. + +From Loughborough to Leicester was only ten miles, but the road was +sandy and very unpleasant walking. + +I came through a village called Mountsorrel, which perhaps takes its +name from a little hill at the end of it. As for the rest, it was +all one large plain, all the way to Leicester. + +Towards evening I came to a pleasant meadow just before I got to +Leicester, through which a footpath led me to the town, which made a +good appearance as I viewed it lengthways, and indeed much larger +than it really is. + +I went up a long street before I got to the house from which the +post-coaches set out, and which is also an inn. I here learnt that +the stage was to set out that evening for London, but that the +inside was already full; some places were, however, still left on +the outside. + +Being obliged to bestir myself to get back to London, as the time +drew near when the Hamburg captain, with whom I intend to return, +had fixed his departure, I determined to take a place as far as +Northampton on the outside. + +But this ride from Leicester to Northampton I shall remember as long +as I live. + +The coach drove from the yard through a part of the house. The +inside passengers got in in the yard, but we on the outside were +obliged to clamber up in the public street, because we should have +had no room for our heads to pass under the gateway. + +My companions on the top of the coach were a farmer, a young man +very decently dressed, and a blackamoor. + +The getting up alone was at the risk of one's life, and when I was +up I was obliged to sit just at the corner of the coach, with +nothing to hold by but a sort of little handle fastened on the side. +I sat nearest the wheel, and the moment that we set off I fancied +that I saw certain death await me. All I could do was to take still +safer hold of the handle, and to be more and more careful to +preserve my balance. + +The machine now rolled along with prodigious rapidity, over the +stones through the town, and every moment we seemed to fly into the +air, so that it was almost a miracle that we still stuck to the +coach and did not fall. We seemed to be thus on the wing, and to +fly, as often as we passed through a village, or went down a hill. + +At last the being continually in fear of my life became +insupportable, and as we were going up a hill, and consequently +proceeding rather slower than usual, I crept from the top of the +coach and got snug into the basket. + +"O, sir, sir, you will be shaken to death!" said the black, but I +flattered myself he exaggerated the unpleasantness of my post. + +As long as we went up hill it was easy and pleasant. And, having +had little or no sleep the night before, I was almost asleep among +the trunks and the packages; but how was the case altered when we +came to go down hill! then all the trunks and parcels began, as it +were, to dance around me, and everything in the basket seemed to be +alive, and I every moment received from them such violent blows that +I thought my last hour was come. I now found that what the black +had told me was no exaggeration, but all my complaints were useless. +I was obliged to suffer this torture nearly an hour, till we came to +another hill again, when quite shaken to pieces and sadly bruised, I +again crept to the top of the coach, and took possession of my +former seat. "Ah, did not I tell you that you would be shaken to +death?" said the black, as I was getting up, but I made him no +reply. Indeed, I was ashamed; and I now write this as a warning to +all strangers to stage-coaches who may happen to take it into their +heads, without being used to it, to take a place on the outside of +an English post-coach, and still more, a place in the basket. + +About midnight we arrived at Harborough, where I could only rest +myself a moment, before we were again called to set off, full drive, +through a number of villages, so that a few hours before daybreak we +had reached Northampton, which is, however, thirty-three miles from +Leicester. + +From Harborough to Leicester I had a most dreadful journey, it +rained incessantly; and as before we had been covered with dust, we +now were soaked with rain. My neighbour, the young man who sat next +me in the middle, that my inconveniences might be complete, every +now and then fell asleep; and as, when asleep, he perpetually bolted +and rolled against me, with the whole weight of his body, more than +once he was very near pushing me entirely off my seat. + +We at last reached Northampton, where I immediately went to bed, and +have slept almost till noon. To-morrow morning I intend to continue +my journey to London in some other stage-coach. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + + +London, 15th July, 1782. + +The journey from Northampton to London I can again hardly call a +journey, but rather a perpetual motion, or removal from one place to +another, in a close box; during your conveyance you may, perhaps, if +you are in luck, converse with two or three people shut up along +with you. + +But I was not so fortunate, for my three travelling companions were +all farmers, who slept so soundly that even the hearty knocks of the +head with which they often saluted each other, did not awake them. + +Their faces, bloated and discoloured by their copious use of ale and +brandy, looked, as they lay before me, like so many lumps of dead +flesh. When now and then they woke, sheep, in which they all dealt, +was the first and last topic of their conversation. One of the +three, however, differed not a little from the other two; his face +was sallow and thin, his eyes quite sunk and hollow, his long, lank +fingers hung quite loose, and as if detached from his hands. He +was, in short, the picture of avarice and misanthropy. The former +he certainly was; for at every stage he refused to give the coachman +the accustomed perquisite, which every body else paid; and every +farthing he was forced to part with, forced a "G-d d--n" from his +heart. As he sat in the coach, he seemed anxious to shun the light; +and so shut up every window that he could come at, except when now +and then I opened them to take a slight view of the charms of the +country through which we seemed to be flying, rather than driving. + +Our road lay through Newport Pagnell, Dunstable, St. Albans, Barnet, +to Islington, or rather to London itself. But these names are all I +know of the different places. + +At Dunstable, if I do not mistake, we breakfasted; and here, as is +usual, everything was paid for in common by all the passengers; as I +did not know this, I ordered coffee separately; however, when it +came, the three farmers also drank of it, and gave me some of their +tea. + +They asked me what part of the world I came from; whereas we in +Germany generally inquired what countryman a person is. + +When we had breakfasted, and were again seated in the coach, all the +farmers, the lean one excepted, seemed quite alive again, and now +began a conversation on religion and on politics. + +One of them brought the history of Samson on the carpet, which the +clergyman of his parish, he said, had lately explained, I dare say +very satisfactorily; though this honest farmer still had a great +many doubts about the great gate which Samson carried away, and +about the foxes with the firebrands between their tails. In other +respects, however, the man seemed not to be either uninformed or +sceptical. + +They now proceeded to relate to each other various stories, chiefly +out of the Bible; not merely as important facts, but as interesting +narratives, which they would have told and listened to with equal +satisfaction had they met them anywhere else. One of them had only +heard these stories from his minister in the church, not being able +to read them himself. + +The one that sat next to him now began to talk about the Jews of the +Old Testament, and assured us that the present race were all +descended from those old ones. "Ay, and they are all damned to all +eternity!" said his companion, as coolly and as confidently as if at +that moment he had seen them burning in the bottomless pit. + +We now frequently took up fresh passengers, who only rode a short +distance with us, and then got out again. Among others was a woman +from London, whose business was the making of brandy. She +entertained us with a very circumstantial narrative of all the +shocking scenes during the late riot in that city. What +particularly struck me was her saying that she saw a man, opposite +to her house, who was so furious, that he stood on the wall of a +house that was already half burnt down, and there, like a demon, +with his own hands pulled down and tossed about the bricks which the +fire had spared, till at length he was shot, and fell back among the +flames. + +At length we arrived at London without any accident, in a hard rain, +about one o'clock. I had been obliged to pay sixteen shillings +beforehand at Northampton, for the sixty miles to London. This the +coachman seemed not to know for certain, and therefore asked me more +earnestly if I was sure I had paid: I assured him I had, and he +took my word. + +I looked like a crazy creature when I arrived in London; +notwithstanding which, Mr. Pointer, with whom I left my trunk, +received me in the most friendly manner, and desired me during +dinner to relate to him my adventures. + +The same evening I called on Mr. Leonhardi, who, as I did not wish +to hire a lodging for the few days I might be obliged to wait for a +fair wind, got me into the Freemasons' Tavern. And here I have been +waiting these eight days, and the wind still continues contrary for +Hambro'; though I do now most heartily wish for a fair wind, as I +can no longer make any improvement by my stay, since I must keep +myself in constant readiness to embark whenever the wind changes; +and therefore I dare go no great distance. + +Everybody here is now full of the Marquis of Rockingham's death, and +the change of the ministry in consequence of it. They are much +displeased that Fox has given up his seat; and yet it is singular, +they still are much concerned, and interest themselves for him, as +if whatever interested him were the interest of the nation. On +Tuesday there was a highly important debate in Parliament. Fox was +called on to assign the true reasons of his resignation before the +nation. At eleven o'clock the gallery was so full that nobody could +get a place, and the debates only began at three, and lasted this +evening till ten. + +About four Fox came. Every one was full of expectation. He spoke +at first with great vehemence, but it was observed that he gradually +became more and more moderate, and when at length he had vindicated +the step he had taken, and showed it to be, in every point of view, +just, wise, and honourable, he added, with great force and pathos, +"and now I stand here once more as poor as ever I was." It was +impossible to hear such a speech and such declarations unmoved. + +General Conway then gave his reasons why he did not resign, though +he was of the same political principles as Mr. Fox and Mr. Burke; he +was of the same opinion with them in regard to the independency of +America; the more equal representation of the people in Parliament, +and the regulations necessary in Ireland; but he did not think the +present minister, Lord Shelburne, would act contrary to those +principles. As soon as he did, he should likewise resign, but not +before. + +Burke now stood up and made a most elegant though florid speech, in +praise of the late Marquis of Rockingham. As he did not meet with +sufficient attention, and heard much talking and many murmurs, he +said, with much vehemence and a sense of injured merit, "This is not +treatment for so old a member of Parliament as I am, and I will be +heard!"--on which there was immediately a most profound silence. +After he had said much more in praise of Rockingham, he sub-joined, +that with regard to General Conway's remaining in the ministry, it +reminded him of a fable he had heard in his youth, of a wolf, who, +on having clothed himself as a sheep, was let into the fold by a +lamb, who indeed did say to him, "Where did you get those long +nails, and those sharp teeth, mamma?" But nevertheless let him in; +the consequence of which was he murdered the whole flock. Now with +respect to General Conway, it appeared to him, just as though the +lamb certainly did perceive the nails and teeth of the wolf, but +notwithstanding, was so good-tempered to believe that the wolf would +change his nature, and become a lamb. By this, he did not mean to +reflect on Lord Shelburne: only of this he was certain, that the +present administration was a thousand times worse than that under +Lord North (who was present). + +When I heard Mr. Pitt speak for the first time, I was astonished +that a man of so youthful an appearance should stand up at all; but +I was still more astonished to see how, while he spoke, he engaged +universal attention. He seems to me not to be more than one-and- +twenty. This same Pitt is now minister, and even Chancellor of the +Exchequer. + +It is shocking to a foreigner, to see what violent satires on men, +rather than on things, daily appear in the newspapers, of which they +tell me there are at least a dozen, if not more, published every +day. Some of them side with the Ministry, and still more I think +with the Opposition. A paper that should be quite impartial, if +that were possible, I apprehend would be deemed so insipid as to +find no readers. No longer ago than yesterday, it was mentioned in +one of these newspapers, that when Fox, who is fallen, saw so young +a man as Pitt made the minister, he exclaimed with Satan, who, in +"Paradise Lost," on perceiving the man approved by God, called out, +"O hateful sight!" + +On Thursday the king went with the usual solemnity to prorogue the +Parliament for a stated time. But I pass this over as a matter that +has already been so often described. + +I have also, during this period, become acquainted with Baron +Grothaus, the famous walker, to whom I had also a letter of +recommendation from Baron Groote of Hambro'. He lives in +Chesterfield House, not far from General Paoli, to whom he has +promised to introduce me, if I have time to call on him again. + +I have suffered much this week from the violent cough I brought with +me from the hole in Derbyshire, so that I could not for some days +stir; during which time Messrs. Schonborn and Leonhardi have visited +me very attentively, and contributed much to my amendment. + +I have been obliged to relate as much about my journey out of London +here as I probably shall in Germany of all England in general. To +most people to whom I give an account of my journey, what I have +seen is quite new. I must, however, here insert a few remarks on +the elocution, or manner of speaking, of this country, which I had +forgot before to write to you. + +English eloquence appears to me not to be nearly so capable of so +much variety and diffusion as ours is. Add to this, in their +Parliamentary speeches, in sermons in the pulpit, in the dialogues +on the stage; nay, even in common conversation, their periods at the +end of a sentence are always accompanied by a certain singular +uniform fall of the voice, which, notwithstanding its monotony has +in it something so peculiar, and so difficult, that I defy any +foreigner ever completely to acquire it. Mr. Leonhardi in +particular seemed to me, in some passages which he repeated out of +Hamlet, to have learnt to sink his voice in the true English manner; +yet any one might know from his speaking that he is not an +Englishman. The English place the accent oftener on the adjectives +than they do on the substantive, which, though undoubtedly the most +significant word in any sentence, has frequently less stress laid on +it than you hear laid on mere epithets. On the stage they pronounce +the syllables and words extremely distinct, so that at the theatres +you may always gain most instruction in English elocution and +pronunciation. + +This kingdom is remarkable for running into dialect: even in London +they are said to have one. They say, for example, "it a'nt" instead +of "it is not;" "I don't know," for "I do not know;" "I don't know +him," for "I do not know him;" the latter of which phrases has often +deceived me, as I mistook a negative for an affirmative. + +The word "sir," in English, has a great variety of significations. +With the appellation of "sir," an Englishman addresses his king, his +friend, his foe, his servant, and his dog; he makes use of it when +asking a question politely; and a member of Parliament, merely to +fill up a vacancy, when he happens to be at a loss. "Sir?" in an +inquiring tone of voice, signifies what is your desire? "Sir!" in a +humble tone--gracious Sovereign!--"Sir!" in surly tone, a box on the +ear at your service! To a dog it means a good beating. And in a +speech in Parliament, accompanied by a pause, it signifies, I cannot +now recollect what it is I wish to say farther. + +I do not recollect to have heard any expression repeated oftener +than this, "Never mind it!" A porter one day fell down, and cut his +head on the pavement: "O, never mind it!" said an Englishman who +happened to be passing by. When I had my trunk fetched from the +ship in a boat, the waterman rowed among the boats, and his boy, who +stood at the head of his boat, got a sound drubbing, because the +others would not let him pass: "O, never mind it!" said the old +one, and kept rowing on. + +The Germans who have been here any time almost constantly make use +of Anglicisms, such as "es will nicht thun" (it will not do), +instead of es ist nicht hinlanglich (it is not sufficient), and many +such. Nay, some even say, "Ich habe es nicht geminded" (I did not +mind it), instead of ich habe mich nicht daran errinnert, oder daran +gedacht (I did not recollect it, or I did not think of it). + +You can immediately distinguish Englishmen when they speak German, +by their pronunciation according to the English manner; instead of +Ich befinde mich wohl, they say Ich befirmich u'hol (I am very +well), the w being as little noticed as u quickly sounded. + +I have often heard, when directing any one in the street, the +phrase, "Go down the street as far as ever you can go, and ask +anybody." Just as we say, "Every child can direct you." + +I have already noticed in England they learn to write a much finer +hand than with us. This probably arises from their making use of +only one kind of writing, in which the letters are all so exact that +you would take it for print. + +In general, in speaking, reading, in their expressions, and in +writing, they seem, in England, to have more decided rules than we +have. The lowest man expresses himself in proper phrases, and he +who publishes a book, at least writes correctly, though the matter +be ever so ordinary. In point of style, when they write, they seem +to be all of the same country, profession, rank, and station. + +The printed English sermons are beyond all question the best in the +world; yet I have sometimes heard sad, miserable stuff from their +pulpits. I have been in some churches where the sermons seem to +have been transcribed or compiled from essays and pamphlets; and the +motley composition, after all, very badly put together. It is said +that there are a few in London, by whom some of the English clergy +are supposed to get their sermons made for money. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + + +London, 18th July. + +I write to you now for the last time from London; and, what is still +more, from St. Catherine's, one of the most execrable holes in all +this great city, where I am obliged to stay, because the great ships +arrive in the Thames here, and go from hence, and we shall sail as +soon as the wind changes. This it has just now done, yet still it +seems we shall not sail till to-morrow. To-day therefore I can +still relate to you all the little that I have farther noticed. + +On Monday morning I moved from the Freemasons' Tavern to a public- +house here, of which the master is a German; and where all the +Hambro' captains lodge. At the Freemasons' Tavern, the bill for +eight days' lodging, breakfast, and dinner came to one guinea and +nine shillings and nine pence. Breakfast, dinner, and coffee were +always, with distinction, reckoned a shilling each. For my lodging +I paid only twelve shillings a week, which was certainly cheap +enough. + +At the German's house in St. Catherine's, on the contrary, +everything is more reasonable, and you here eat, drink, and lodge +for half-a-guinea a week. Notwithstanding, however, I would not +advise anybody who wishes to see London, to lodge here long; for St. +Catherine's is one of the most out-of-the-way and inconvenient +places in the whole town. + +He who lands here first sees this miserable, narrow, dirty street, +and this mass of ill-built, old, ruinous houses; and of course +forms, at first sight, no very favourable idea of this beautiful and +renowned city. + +From Bullstrode Street, or Cavendish Square, to St. Catherine's, is +little less than half a day's journey. Nevertheless, Mr. Schonborn +has daily visited me since I have lived here; and I have always +walked back half-way with him. This evening we took leave of each +other near St. Paul's, and this separation cost me not a few tears. + +I have had a very agreeable visit this afternoon from Mr. Hansen, +one of the assistants to the "Zollner book for all ranks of men" who +brought me a letter from the Rev. Mr. Zollner at Berlin, and just +arrived at London when I was going away. He is going on business to +Liverpool. I have these few days past, for want of better +employment, walked through several parts of London that I had not +before seen. Yesterday I endeavoured to reach the west end of the +town; and I walked several miles, when finding it was grown quite +dark, I turned back quite tired, without having accomplished my end. + +Nothing in London makes so disgusting an appearance to a foreigner, +as the butchers' shops, especially in the environs of the Tower. +Guts and all the nastiness are thrown into the middle of the street, +and cause an insupportable stench. + +I have forgot to describe the 'Change to you; this beautiful +building is a long square in the centre of which is an open area, +where the merchants assemble. All round, there are covered walks +supported by pillars on which the name of the different commercial +nations you may wish to find are written up, that among the crowd of +people you may be able to find each other. There are also stone +benches made under the covered walks, which after a ramble from St. +Catherine's, for example, hither, are very convenient to rest +yourself. + +On the walls all kinds of handbills are stuck up. Among others I +read one of singular contents. A clergyman exhorted the people not +to assent to the shameful Act of Parliament for the toleration of +Catholics, by suffering their children to their eternal ruin to be +instructed and educated by them; but rather to give him, an orthodox +clergyman of the Church of England, this employ and this emolument. + +In the middle of the area is a stone statue of Charles the Second. +As I sat here on a bench, and gazed on the immense crowds that +people London, I thought that, as to mere dress and outward +appearance, these here did not seem to be materially different from +our people at Berlin. + +Near the 'Change is a shop where, for a penny or even a halfpenny +only, you may read as many newspapers as you will. There are always +a number of people about these shops, who run over the paper as they +stand, pay their halfpenny, and then go on. + +Near the 'Change there is a little steeple with a set of bells which +have a charming tone, but they only chime one or two lively tunes, +though in this part of the City you constantly hear bells ringing in +your ears. + +It has struck me that in London there is no occasion for any +elementary works or prints, for the instruction of children. One +need only lead them into the City, and show them the things +themselves as they really are. For here it is contrived, as much as +possible, to place in view for the public inspection every +production of art, and every effort of industry. Paintings, +mechanisms, curiosities of all kinds, are here exhibited in the +large and light shop windows, in the most advantageous manner; nor +are spectators wanting, who here and there, in the middle of the +street, stand still to observe any curious performance. Such a +street seemed to me to resemble a well regulated cabinet of +curiosities. + +But the squares, where the finest houses are, disdain and reject all +such shows and ornaments, which are adapted only to shopkeepers' +houses. The squares, moreover, are not nearly so crowded or so +populous as the streets and the other parts of the city. There is +nearly as much difference between these squares and the Strand in +London, in point of population and bustle, as there is between +Millbank and Fredericksstadt in Berlin. + +I do not at present recollect anything further, my dear friend, +worth your attention, which I can now write to you, except that +everything is ready for our departure to-morrow. I paid Captain +Hilkes, with whom I came over from Hambro', four guineas for my +passage and my board in the cabin. But Captain Braunschweig, with +whom I am to return, charges me five guineas; because provisions, he +says, are dearer in London than at Hambro'. I now have related to +you all my adventures and all my history from the time that I took +leave of you in the street, my voyage hither with Captain Hilkes +excepted. Of this, all that I think it necessary to mention is, +that, to my great dissatisfaction, it lasted a fortnight, and three +days I was sea-sick. Of my voyage back I will give you a personal +account. And now remember me to Biester, and farewell till I see +you again. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782 *** + +This file should be named teng10.txt or teng10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, teng11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, teng10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Travels in England in 1782 + +Author: Charles P. Moritz + +Release Date: March, 2004 [EBook #5249] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on June 11, 2002] +[Most recently updated: June 11, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII +</pre> +<p> +<a name="startoftext"></a> +Transcribed from the 1886 Cassell & Company edition by David Price, +email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +INTRODUCTION<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +Charles P. Moritz’s “Travels, chiefly on foot, through several +parts of England in 1782, described in Letters to a Friend,” were +translated from the German by a lady, and published in 1795. John +Pinkerton included them in the second volume of his Collection of Voyages +and Travels.<br> +<br> +The writer of this account of England as it was about a hundred years +ago, and seven years before the French Revolution, was a young Prussian +clergyman, simply religious, calmly enthusiastic for the freer forms +of citizenship, which he found in England and contrasted with the military +system of Berlin. The touch of his times was upon him, with some +of the feeling that caused Frenchmen, after the first outbreak of the +Revolution, to hail Englishmen as “their forerunners in the glorious +race.” He had learnt English at home, and read Milton, whose +name was inscribed then in German literature on the banners of the free.<br> +<br> +In 1782 Charles Moritz came to England with little in his purse and +“Paradise Lost” in his pocket, which he meant to read in +the Land of Milton. He came ready to admire, and enthusiasm adds +some colour to his earliest impressions; but when they were coloured +again by hard experience, the quiet living sympathy remained. +There is nothing small in the young Pastor Moritz, we feel a noble nature +in his true simplicity of character.<br> +<br> +He stayed seven weeks with us, three of them in London. He travelled +on foot to Richmond, Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, and Matlock, with +some experience of a stage coach on the way back; and when, in dread +of being hurled from his perch on the top as the coach flew down hill, +he tried a safer berth among the luggage in the basket, he had further +experience. It was like that of Hood’s old lady, in the +same place of inviting shelter, who, when she crept out, had only breath +enough left to murmur, “Oh, them boxes!”<br> +<br> +Pastor Moritz’s experience of inns was such as he hardly could +pick up in these days of the free use of the feet. But in those +days everybody who was anybody rode. And even now, there might +be cold welcome to a shabby-looking pedestrian without a knapsack. +Pastor Moritz had his Milton in one pocket and his change of linen in +the other. From some inns he was turned away as a tramp, and in +others he found cold comfort. Yet he could be proud of a bit of +practical wisdom drawn by himself out of the “Vicar of Wakefield,” +that taught him to conciliate the innkeeper by drinking with him; and +the more the innkeeper drank of the ale ordered the better, because +Pastor Moritz did not like it, and it did not like him. He also +felt experienced in the ways of the world when, having taken example +from the manners of a bar-maid, if he drank in a full room he did not +omit to say, “Your healths, gentlemen all.”<br> +<br> +Fielding’s Parson Adams, with his Æschylus in his pocket, +and Parson Moritz with his Milton, have points of likeness that bear +strong witness to Fielding’s power of entering into the spirit +of a true and gentle nature. After the first touches of enthusiastic +sentiment, that represent real freshness of enjoyment, there is no reaction +to excess in opposite extreme. The young foot traveller settles +down to simple truth, retains his faith in English character, and reports +ill-usage without a word of bitterness.<br> +<br> +The great charm of this book is its unconscious expression of the writer’s +character. His simple truthfulness presents to us of 1886 as much +of the England of 1782 as he was able to see with eyes full of intelligence +and a heart full of kindness. He heard Burke speak on the death +of his friend and patron Lord Rockingham, with sudden rebuke to an indolent +and inattentive house. He heard young Pitt, and saw how he could +fix, boy as he looked, every man’s attention.<br> +<br> +<br> +“Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us<br> +To see oursels as others see us!<br> +It wad frae many a blunder free us,<br> + And foolish notion.”<br> +<br> +<br> +And when the power is so friendly as that of the Pastor Moritz, we may, +if wise, know ourselves better than from a thousand satires, but if +foolish we may let all run into self-praise.<br> +<br> +H. M.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER I.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>On the Thames, </i>31st <i>May.<br> +<br> +</i>At length, my dearest Gedike, I find myself safely landed on the +happy shores of that country, a sight of which has, for many years, +been my most earnest wish; and whither I have so often in imagination +transported myself. A few hours ago the green hills of England +yet swam imperfectly before our eyes, scarcely perceptible in the distant +horizon: they now unfold themselves on either side, forming as it were +a double amphitheatre. The sun bursts through the clouds, and +gilds alternately the shrubs and meadows on the distant shores, and +we now espy the tops of two masts of ships just peeping above the surface +of the deep. What an awful warning to adventurous men! We +now sail close by those very sands (the Goodwin) where so many unfortunate +persons have found their graves.<br> +<br> +The shores now regularly draw nearer to each other: the danger of the +voyage is over; and the season for enjoyment, unembittered by cares, +commences. How do we feel ourselves, we, who have long been wandering +as it were, in a boundless space, on having once more gained prospects +that are not without limits! I should imagine our sensations as +somewhat like those of the traveller who traverses the immeasurable +deserts of America, when fortunately he obtains a hut wherein to shelter +himself; in those moments he certainly enjoys himself; nor does he then +complain of its being too small. It is indeed the lot of man to +be always circumscribed to a narrow space, even when he wanders over +the most extensive regions; even when the huge sea envelops him all +around, and wraps him close to its bosom, in the act, as it were, of +swallowing him up in a moment: still he is separated from all the circumjacent +immensity of space only by one small part, or insignificant portion +of that immensity.<br> +<br> +That portion of this space, which I now see surrounding me, is a most +delightful selection from the whole of beautiful nature. Here +is the Thames full of large and small ships and boats, dispersed here +and there, which are either sailing on with us, or lying at anchor; +and there the hills on either side, clad with so soft and mild a green, +as I have nowhere else ever seen equalled. The charming banks +of the Elbe, which I so lately quitted, are as much surpassed by these +shores as autumn is by spring! I see everywhere nothing but fertile +and cultivated lands; and those living hedges which in England more +than in any other country, form the boundaries of the green cornfields, +and give to the whole of the distant country the appearance of a large +and majestic garden. The neat villages and small towns with sundry +intermediate country seats, suggest ideas of prosperity and opulence +which is not possible to describe.<br> +<br> +The prospect towards Gravesend is particularly beautiful. It is +a clever little town, built on the side of a hill; about which there +lie hill and dale and meadows, and arable land, intermixed with pleasure +grounds and country seats; all diversified in the most agreeable manner. +On one of the highest of these hills near Gravesend stands a windmill, +which is a very good object, as you see it at some distance, as well +as part of the country around it, on the windings of the Thames. +But as few human pleasures are ever complete and perfect, we too, amidst +the pleasing contemplation of all these beauties, found ourselves exposed +on the quarter-deck to uncommonly cold and piercing weather. An +unintermitting violent shower of rain has driven me into the cabin, +where I am now endeavouring to divert a gloomy hour by giving you the +description of a pleasing one.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER II.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>London,</i> <i>2nd June.<br> +<br> +</i>This morning those of us who were fellow passengers together in +the great cabin, being six in number, requested to be set on shore in +a boat, a little before the vessel got to Dartford, which is still sixteen +miles from London. This expedient is generally adopted, instead +of going up the Thames, towards London, where on account of the astonishing +number of ships, which are always more crowded together the nearer you +approach the city, it frequently requires many days before a ship can +finish her passage. He therefore who wishes to lose no time unnecessarily, +and wishes also to avoid other inconveniences, such as frequent stoppages, +and perhaps, some alarming dashings against other ships, prefers travelling +those few miles by land in a post-chaise, which is not very expensive, +especially when three join together, as three passengers pay no more +than one. This indulgence is allowed by act of parliament.<br> +<br> +As we left the vessel we were honoured with a general huzza, or in the +English phrase with three cheers, echoed from the German sailors of +our ship. This nautical style of bidding their friends farewell +our Germans have learned from the English. The cliff where we +landed was white and chalky, and as the distance was not great, nor +other means of conveyance at hand, we resolved to go on foot to Dartford: +immediately on landing we had a pretty steep hill to climb, and that +gained, we arrived at the first English village, where an uncommon neatness +in the structure of the houses, which in general are built with red +bricks and flat roofs, struck me with a pleasing surprise, especially +when I compared them with the long, rambling, inconvenient, and singularly +mean cottages of our peasants. We now continued our way through +the different villages, each furnished with his staff, and thus exhibited +no remote resemblance of a caravan. Some few people who met us +seemed to stare at us, struck, perhaps, by the singularity of our dress, +or the peculiarity of our manner of travelling. On our route we +passed a wood where a troop of gipsies had taken up their abode around +a fire under a tree. The country, as we continued to advance, +became more and more beautiful. Naturally, perhaps, the earth +is everywhere pretty much alike, but how different is it rendered by +art! How different is that on which I now tread from ours, and +every other spot I have ever seen. The soil is rich even to exuberance, +the verdure of the trees and hedges, in short the whole of this paradisaical +region is without a parallel! The roads too are incomparable; +I am astonished how they have got them so firm and solid; every step +I took I felt, and was conscious it was English ground on which I trod.<br> +<br> +We breakfasted at Dartford. Here, for the first time, I saw an +English soldier, in his red uniform, his hair cut short and combed back +on his forehead, so as to afford a full view of his fine, broad, manly +face. Here too I first saw (what I deemed a true English fight) +in the street, two boys boxing.<br> +<br> +Our little party now separated, and got into two post-chaises, each +of which hold three persons, though it must be owned three cannot sit +quite so commodiously in these chaises as two: the hire of a post-chaise +is a shilling for every English mile. They may be compared to +our extra posts, because they are to be had at all times. But +these carriages are very neat and lightly built, so that you hardly +perceive their motion as they roll along these firm smooth roads; they +have windows in front, and on both sides. The horses are generally +good, and the postillions particularly smart and active, and always +ride on a full trot. The one we had wore his hair cut short, a +round hat, and a brown jacket of tolerable fine cloth, with a nosegay +in his bosom. Now and then, when he drove very hard, he looked +round, and with a smile seemed to solicit our approbation. A thousand +charming spots, and beautiful landscapes, on which my eye would long +have dwelt with rapture, were now rapidly passed with the speed of an +arrow.<br> +<br> +Our road appeared to be undulatory, and our journey, like the journey +of life, seemed to be a pretty regular alternation of up hill and down, +and here and there it was diversified with copses and woods; the majestic +Thames every now and then, like a little forest of masts, rising to +our view, and anon losing itself among the delightful towns and villages. +The amazing large signs which at the entrance of villages hang in the +middle of the street, being fastened to large beams, which are extended +across the street from one house to another opposite to it, particularly +struck me; these sign-posts have the appearance of gates or of gateways, +for which I at first took them, but the whole apparatus, unnecessarily +large as it seems to be, is intended for nothing more than to tell the +inquisitive traveller that there is an inn. At length, stunned +as it were by this constant rapid succession of interesting objects +to engage our attention, we arrived at Greenwich nearly in a state of +stupefaction.<br> +<br> +<i>The Prospect of London.<br> +<br> +</i>We first descried it enveloped in a thick smoke or fog. St. +Paul’s arose like some huge mountain above the enormous mass of +smaller buildings. The Monument, a very lofty column, erected +in memory of the great fire of London, exhibited to us, perhaps, chiefly +on account of its immense height, apparently so disproportioned to its +other dimensions (for it actually struck us as resembling rather a slender +mast, towering up in immeasurable height into the clouds, than as that +it really is, a stately obelisk) an unusual and singular appearance. +Still we went on, and drew nearer and nearer with amazing velocity, +and the surrounding objects became every moment more distinct. +Westminster Abbey, the Tower, a steeple, one church, and then another, +presented themselves to our view; and we could now plainly distinguish +the high round chimneys on the tops of the houses, which yet seemed +to us to form an innumerable number of smaller spires, or steeples.<br> +<br> +The road from Greenwich to London is actually busier and far more alive +than the most frequented streets in Berlin. At every step we met +people on horseback, in carriages, and foot passengers; and everywhere +also, and on each side of the road, well-built and noble houses, whilst +all along, at proper distances, the road was lined with lamp-posts. +One thing, in particular, struck and surprised me not a little. +This was the number of people we met riding and walking with spectacles +on, among whom were many who appeared stout, healthy, and young. +We were stopped at least three times at barriers or gates, here called +turnpikes, to pay a duty or toll which, however small, as being generally +paid in their copper coinage, in the end amounted to some shillings.<br> +<br> +At length we arrived at the magnificent bridge of Westminster. +The prospect from this bridge alone seems to afford one the epitome +of a journey, or a voyage in miniature, as containing something of everything +that mostly occurs on a journey. It is a little assemblage of +contrasts and contrarieties. In contrast to the round, modern, +and majestic cathedral of St. Paul’s on your right, the venerable, +old-fashioned, and hugely noble, long abbey of Westminster, with its +enormous pointed roof, rises on the left. Down the Thames to the +right you see Blackfriar’s Bridge, which does not yield much, +if at all, in beauty to that of Westminster; on the left bank of the +Thames are delightful terraces, planted with trees, and those new tasteful +buildings called the Adelphi. On the Thames itself are countless +swarms of little boats passing and repassing, many with one mast and +one sail, and many with none, in which persons of all ranks are carried +over. Thus there is hardly less stir and bustle on this river, +than there is in some of its own London’s crowded streets. +Here, indeed, you no longer see great ships, for they come no farther +than London Bridge<br> +<br> +We now drove into the city by Charing Cross, and along the Strand, to +those very Adelphi Buildings which had just afforded us so charming +a prospect on Westminster Bridge.<br> +<br> +My two travelling companions, both in the ship and the post-chaise, +were two young Englishmen, who living in this part of the town, obligingly +offered me any assistance and services in their power, and in particular, +to procure me a lodging the same day in their neighbourhood.<br> +<br> +In the streets through which we passed, I must own the houses in general +struck me as if they were dark and gloomy, and yet at the same time +they also struck me as prodigiously great and majestic. At that +moment, I could not in my own mind compare the external view of London +with that of any other city I had ever before seen. But I remember +(and surely it is singular) that about five years ago, on my first entrance +into Leipzig, I had the very same sensations I now felt. It is +possible that the high houses, by which the streets at Leipzig are partly +darkened, the great number of shops, and the crowd of people, such as +till then I had never seen, might have some faint resemblance with the +scene now surrounding me in London.<br> +<br> +There are everywhere leading from the Strand to the Thames, some well-built, +lesser, or subordinate streets, of which the Adelphi Buildings are now +by far the foremost. One district in this neighbourhood goes by +the name of York Buildings, and in this lies George Street, where my +two travelling companions lived. There reigns in those smaller +streets towards the Thames so pleasing a calm, compared to the tumult +and bustle of people, and carriages, and horses, that are constantly +going up and down the Strand, that in going into one of them you can +hardly help fancying yourself removed at a distance from the noise of +the city, even whilst the noisiest part of it is still so near at hand.<br> +<br> +It might be about ten or eleven o’clock when we arrived here. +After the two Englishmen had first given me some breakfast at their +lodgings, which consisted of tea and bread and butter, they went about +with me themselves, in their own neighbourhood, in search of an apartment, +which they at length procured for me for sixteen shillings a week, at +the house of a tailor’s widow who lived opposite to them. +It was very fortunate, on other accounts, that they went with me, for +equipped as I was, having neither brought clean linen nor change of +clothes from my trunk, I might perhaps have found it difficult to obtain +good lodgings.<br> +<br> +It was a very uncommon but pleasing sensation I experienced on being +now, for the first time in my life, entirely among Englishmen: among +people whose language was foreign, their manners foreign, and in a foreign +climate, with whom, notwithstanding, I could converse as familiarly +as though we had been educated together from our infancy. It is +certainly an inestimable advantage to understand the language of the +country through which you travel. I did not at first give the +people I was with any reason to suspect I could speak English, but I +soon found that the more I spoke, the more attention and regard I met +with. I now occupy a large room in front on the ground floor, +which has a carpet and mats, and is very neatly furnished; the chairs +are covered with leather, and the tables are of mahogany. Adjoining +to this I have another large room. I may do just as I please, +and keep my own tea, coffee, bread and butter, for which purpose my +landlady has given me a cupboard in my room, which locks up.<br> +<br> +The family consists of the mistress of the house, her maid, and her +two sons, Jacky and Jerry; singular abbreviations for John and Jeremiah. +The eldest, Jacky, about twelve years old, is a very lively boy, and +often entertains me in the most pleasing manner by relating to me his +different employments at school, and afterwards desiring me in my turn +to relate to him all manner of things about Germany. He repeats +his <i>amo</i>, <i>amas</i>, <i>amavi</i>, in the same singing tone +as our common school-boys. As I happened once when he was by, +to hum a lively tune, he stared at me with surprise, and then reminded +me it was Sunday; and so, that I might not forfeit his good opinion +by any appearance of levity, I gave him to understand that, in the hurry +of my journey, I had forgotten the day. He has already shown me +St. James’s Park, which is not far from hence; and now let me +give you some description of the renowned<br> +<br> +<i>St. James’s Park.<br> +<br> +</i>The park is nothing more than a semicircle, formed of an alley of +trees, which enclose a large green area in the middle of which is a +marshy pond.<br> +<br> +The cows feed on this green turf, and their milk is sold here on the +spot, quite new.<br> +<br> +In all the alleys or walks there are benches, where you may rest yourself. +When you come through the Horse Guards (which is provided with several +passages) into the park, on the right hand is St. James’s Palace, +or the king’s place of residence, one of the meanest public buildings +in London. At the lower end, quite at the extremity, is the queen’s +palace, a handsome and modern building, but very much resembling a private +house. As for the rest, there are generally everywhere about St. +James’s Park very good houses, which is a great addition to it. +There is also before the semicircle of the trees just mentioned a large +vacant space, where the soldiers are exercised.<br> +<br> +How little this famous park is to be compared with our park at Berlin, +I need not mention. And yet one cannot but form a high idea of +St. James’s Park and other public places in London; this arises, +perhaps, from their having been oftener mentioned in romances and other +books than ours have. Even the squares and streets of London are +more noted and better known than many of our principal towns.<br> +<br> +But what again greatly compensates for the mediocrity of this park, +is the astonishing number of people who, towards evening in fine weather, +resort here; our finest walks are never so full even in the midst of +summer. The exquisite pleasure of mixing freely with such a concourse +of people, who are for the most part well-dressed and handsome, I have +experienced this evening for the first time.<br> +<br> +Before I went to the park I took another walk with my little Jacky, +which did not cost me much fatigue and yet was most uncommonly interesting. +I went down the little street in which I live, to the Thames nearly +at the end of it, towards the left, a few steps led me to a singularly +pretty terrace, planted with trees, on the very brink of the river.<br> +<br> +Here I had the most delightful prospect you can possibly imagine. +Before me was the Thames with all its windings, and the stately arches +of its bridges; Westminster with its venerable abbey to the right, to +the left again London, with St. Paul’s, seemed to wind all along +the windings of the Thames, and on the other side of the water lay Southwark, +which is now also considered as part of London. Thus, from this +single spot, I could nearly at one view see the whole city, at least +that side of it towards the Thames. Not far from hence, in this +charming quarter of the town, lived the renowned Garrick. Depend +upon it I shall often visit this delightful walk during my stay in London.<br> +<br> +To-day my two Englishmen carried me to a neighbouring tavern, or rather +an eating-house, where we paid a shilling each for some roast meat and +a salad, giving at the same time nearly half as much to the waiter, +and yet this is reckoned a cheap house, and a cheap style of living. +But I believe, for the future, I shall pretty often dine at home; I +have already begun this evening with my supper. I am now sitting +by the fire in my own room in London. The day is nearly at an +end, the first I have spent in England, and I hardly know whether I +ought to call it only one day, when I reflect what a quick and varied +succession of new and striking ideas have, in so short a time, passed +in my mind.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER III.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>London, 5th June.<br> +<br> +</i>At length, dearest Gedike, I am again settled, as I have now got +my trunk and all my things from the ship, which arrived only yesterday. +Not wishing to have it taken to the Custom House, which occasions a +great deal of trouble, I was obliged to give a douceur to the officers, +and those who came on board the ship to search it. Having pacified, +as I thought, one of them with a couple of shillings, another came forward +and protested against the delivery of the trunk upon trust till I had +given him as much. To him succeeded a third, so that it cost me +six shillings, which I willingly paid, because it would have cost me +still more at the Custom House.<br> +<br> +By the side of the Thames were several porters, one of whom took my +huge heavy trunk on his shoulders with astonishing ease, and carried +it till I met a hackney coach. This I hired for two shillings, +immediately put the trunk into it, accompanying it myself without paying +anything extra for my own seat. This is a great advantage in the +English hackney coaches, that you are allowed to take with you whatever +you please, for you thus save at least one half of what you must pay +to a porter, and besides go with it yourself, and are better accommodated. +The observations and the expressions of the common people here have +often struck me as peculiar. They are generally laconic, but always +much in earnest and significant. When I came home, my landlady +kindly recommended it to the coachman not to ask more than was just, +as I was a foreigner; to which he answered, “Nay, if he were not +a foreigner I should not overcharge him.”<br> +<br> +My letters of recommendation to a merchant here, which I could not bring +with me on account of my hasty departure from Hamburgh, are also arrived. +These have saved me a great deal of trouble in the changing of my money. +I can now take my German money back to Germany, and when I return thither +myself, refund to the correspondent of the merchant here the sum which +he here pays me in English money. I should otherwise have been +obliged to sell my Prussian Fredericks-d’or for what they weighed; +for some few Dutch dollars which I was obliged to part with before I +got this credit they only gave me eight shillings.<br> +<br> +A foreigner has here nothing to fear from being pressed as a sailor, +unless, indeed, he should be found at any suspicious place. A +singular invention for this purpose of pressing is a ship, which is +placed on land not far from the Tower, on Tower Hill, furnished with +masts and all the appurtenances of a ship. The persons attending +this ship promise simple country people, who happen to be standing and +staring at it, to show it to them for a trifle, and as soon as they +are in, they are secured as in a trap, and according to circumstances +made sailors of or let go again.<br> +<br> +The footway, paved with large stones on both sides of the street, appears +to a foreigner exceedingly convenient and pleasant, as one may there +walk in perfect safety, in no more danger from the prodigious crowd +of carts and coaches, than if one was in one’s own room, for no +wheel dares come a finger’s breadth upon the curb stone. +However, politeness requires you to let a lady, or any one to whom you +wish to show respect, pass, not, as we do, always to the right, but +on the side next the houses or the wall, whether that happens to be +on the right or on the left, being deemed the safest and most convenient. +You seldom see a person of any understanding or common sense walk in +the middle of the streets in London, excepting when they cross over, +which at Charing Cross and other places, where several streets meet, +is sometimes really dangerous.<br> +<br> +It has a strange appearance - especially in the Strand, where there +is a constant succession of shop after shop, and where, not unfrequently, +people of different trades inhabit the same house - to see their doors +or the tops of their windows, or boards expressly for the purpose, all +written over from top to bottom with large painted letters. Every +person, of every trade or occupation, who owns ever so small a portion +of a house, makes a parade with a sign at his door; and there is hardly +a cobbler whose name and profession may not be read in large golden +characters by every one that passes. It is here not at all uncommon +to see on doors in one continued succession, “Children educated +here,” “Shoes mended here,” “Foreign spirituous +liquors sold here,” and “Funerals furnished here;” +of all these inscriptions. I am sorry to observe that “Dealer +in foreign spirituous liquors” is by far the most frequent. +And indeed it is allowed by the English themselves, that the propensity +of the common people to the drinking of brandy or gin is carried to +a great excess; and I own it struck me as a peculiar phraseology, when, +to tell you that a person is intoxicated or drunk, you hear them say, +as they generally do, that he is in liquor. In the late riots, +which even yet are hardly quite subsided, and which are still the general +topic of conversation, more people have been found dead near empty brandy-casks +in the streets, than were killed by the musket-balls of regiments that +were called in. As much as I have seen of London within these +two days, there are on the whole I think not very many fine streets +and very fine houses, but I met everywhere a far greater number and +handsomer people than one commonly meets in Berlin. It gives me +much real pleasure when I walk from Charing Cross up the Strand, past +St. Paul’s to the Royal Exchange, to meet in the thickest crowd +persons from the highest to the lowest ranks, almost all well-looking +people, and cleanly and neatly dressed. I rarely see even a fellow +with a wheel-barrow who has not a shirt on, and that, too, such a one +as shows it has been washed; nor even a beggar without both a shirt +and shoes and stockings. The English are certainly distinguished +for cleanliness.<br> +<br> +It has a very uncommon appearance in this tumult of people, where every +one, with hasty and eager step, seems to be pursuing either his business +or his pleasure, and everywhere making his way through the crowd, to +observe, as you often may, people pushing one against another, only +perhaps to see a funeral pass. The English coffins are made very +economically, according to the exact form of the body; they are flat, +and broad at top; tapering gradually from the middle, and drawing to +a point at the feet, not very unlike the case of a violin.<br> +<br> +A few dirty-looking men, who bear the coffin, endeavour to make their +way through the crowd as well as they can; and some mourners follow. +The people seem to pay as little attention to such a procession, as +if a hay-cart were driving past. The funerals of people of distinction, +and of the great, are, however, differently regarded.<br> +<br> +These funerals always appear to me the more indecent in a populous city, +from the total indifference of the beholders, and the perfect unconcern +with which they are beheld. The body of a fellow-creature is carried +to his long home as though it had been utterly unconnected with the +rest of mankind. And yet, in a small town or village, everyone +knows everyone; and no one can be so insignificant as not to be missed +when he is taken away.<br> +<br> +That same influenza which I left at Berlin, I have had the hard fortune +again to find here; and many people die of it. It is as yet very +cold for the time of the year, and I am obliged every day to have a +fire. I must own that the heat or warmth given by sea-coal, burnt +in the chimney, appears to me softer and milder than that given by our +stoves. The sight of the fire has also a cheerful and pleasing +effect. Only you must take care not to look at it steadily, and +for a continuance, for this is probably the reason that there are so +many young old men in England, who walk and ride in the public streets +with their spectacles on; thus anticipating, in the bloom of youth, +those conveniences and comforts which were intended for old age.<br> +<br> +I now constantly dine in my own lodgings; and I cannot but flatter myself +that my meals are regulated with frugality. My usual dish at supper +is some pickled salmon, which you eat in the liquor in which it is pickled, +along with some oil and vinegar; and he must be prejudiced or fastidious +who does not relish it as singularly well tasted and grateful food.<br> +<br> +I would always advise those who wish to drink coffee in England, to +mention beforehand how many cups are to be made with half an ounce; +or else the people will probably bring them a prodigious quantity of +brown water; which (notwithstanding all my admonitions) I have not yet +been able wholly to avoid. The fine wheaten bread which I find +here, besides excellent butter and Cheshire-cheese, makes up for my +scanty dinners. For an English dinner, to such lodgers as I am, +generally consists of a piece of half-boiled, or half-roasted meat; +and a few cabbage leaves boiled in plain water; on which they pour a +sauce made of flour and butter. This, I assure you, is the usual +method of dressing vegetables in England.<br> +<br> +The slices of bread and butter, which they give you with your tea, are +as thin as poppy leaves. But there is another kind of bread and +butter usually eaten with tea, which is toasted by the fire, and is +incomparably good. You take one slice after the other and hold +it to the fire on a fork till the butter is melted, so that it penetrates +a number of slices at once: this is called toast.<br> +<br> +The custom of sleeping without a feather-bed for a covering particularly +pleased me. You here lie between two sheets: underneath the bottom +sheet is a fine blanket, which, without oppressing you, keeps you sufficiently +warm. My shoes are not cleaned in the house, but by a person in +the neighbourhood, whose trade it is; who fetches them every morning, +and brings them back cleaned; for which she receives weekly so much. +When the maid is displeased with me, I hear her sometimes at the door +call me “the German”; otherwise in the family I go by the +name of “the Gentleman.”<br> +<br> +I have almost entirely laid aside riding in a coach, although it does +not cost near so much as it does at Berlin; as I can go and return any +distance not exceeding an English mile for a shilling, for which I should +there at least pay a florin. But, moderate as English fares are, +still you save a great deal, if you walk or go on foot, and know only +how to ask your way. From my lodging to the Royal Exchange is +about as far as from one end of Berlin to the other, and from the Tower +and St. Catharine’s, where the ships arrive in the Thames, as +far again; and I have already walked this distance twice, when I went +to look after my trunk before I got it out of the ship. As it +was quite dark when I came back the first evening, I was astonished +at the admirable manner in which the streets are lighted up; compared +to which our streets in Berlin make a most miserable show. The +lamps are lighted whilst it is still daylight, and are so near each +other, that even on the most ordinary and common nights, the city has +the appearance of a festive illumination, for which some German prince, +who came to London for the first time, once, they say, actually took +it, and seriously believed it to have been particularly ordered on account +of his arrival.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER IV.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>The 9th June</i>, 1782.<br> +<br> +I preached this day at the German church on Ludgate Hill, for the Rev. +Mr. Wendeborn. He is the author of “Die statischen Beyträge +zur nähern Kentniss Grossbrittaniens.” This valuable +book has already been of uncommon service to me, and I cannot but recommend +it to everyone who goes to England. It is the more useful, as +you can with ease carry it in your pocket, and you find in it information +on every subject. It is natural to suppose that Mr. Wendeborn, +who has now been a length of time in England, must have been able more +frequently, and with greater exactness to make his observations, than +those who only pass through, or make a very short stay. It is +almost impossible for anyone, who has this book always at hand, to omit +anything worthy of notice in or about London; or not to learn all that +is most material to know of the state and situation of the kingdom in +general.<br> +<br> +Mr. Wendeborn lives in New Inn, near Temple Bar, in a philosophical, +but not unimproving, retirement. He is almost become a native; +and his library consists chiefly of English books. Before I proceed, +I must just mention, that he has not hired, but bought his apartments +in this great building, called New Inn: and this, I believe, is pretty +generally the case with the lodgings in this place. A purchaser +of any of these rooms is considered as a proprietor; and one who has +got a house and home, and has a right, in parliamentary or other elections, +to give his vote, if he is not a foreigner, which is the case with Mr. +Wendeborn, who, nevertheless, was visited by Mr. Fox when he was to +be chosen member for Westminster.<br> +<br> +I saw, for the first time, at Mr. Wendeborn’s, a very useful machine, +which is little known in Germany, or at least not much used.<br> +<br> +This is a press in which, by means of very strong iron springs, a written +paper may be printed on another blank paper, and you thus save yourself +the trouble of copying; and at the same time multiply your own handwriting. +Mr. Wendeborn makes use of this machine every time he sends manuscripts +abroad, of which he wishes to keep a copy. This machine was of +mahogany, and cost pretty high. I suppose it is because the inhabitants +of London rise so late, that divine service begin only at half-past +ten o’clock. I missed Mr. Wendeborn this morning, and was +therefore obliged to enquire of the door-keeper at St. Paul’s +for a direction to the German church, where I was to preach. He +did not know it. I then asked at another church, not far from +thence. Here I was directed right, and after I had passed through +an iron gate to the end of a long passage, I arrived just in time at +the church, where, after the sermon, I was obliged to read a public +thanksgiving for the safe arrival of our ship. The German clergy +here dress exactly the same as the English clergy - <i>i.e</i>., in +long robes with wide sleeves - in which I likewise was obliged to wrap +myself. Mr. Wendeborn wears his own hair, which curls naturally, +and the toupee is combed up.<br> +<br> +The other German clergymen whom I have seen wear wigs, as well as many +of the English.<br> +<br> +I yesterday waited on our ambassador, Count Lucy, and was agreeably +surprised at the simplicity of his manner of living. He lives +in a small private house. His secretary lives upstairs, where +also I met with the Prussian consul, who happened just then to be paying +him a visit. Below, on the right hand, I was immediately shown +into his Excellency’s room, without being obliged to pass through +an antechamber. He wore a blue coat, with a red collar and red +facings. He conversed with me, as we drank a dish of coffee, on +various learned topics; and when I told him of the great dispute now +going on about the <i>tacismus </i>or <i>stacismus, </i>he declared +himself, as a born Greek, for the <i>stacismus.<br> +<br> +</i>When I came to take my leave, he desired me to come and see him +without ceremony whenever it suited me, as he should be always happy +to see me.<br> +<br> +Mr. Leonhard, who has translated several celebrated English plays, such +as “The School for Scandal,” and some others, lives here +as a private person, instructing Germans in English, and Englishmen +in German, with great ability. He also it is who writes the articles +concerning England for the new Hamburgh newspaper, for which he is paid +a stated yearly stipend. I may add also, that he is the master +of a German Freemasons’ lodge in London, and representative of +all the German lodges in England - an employment of far more trouble +than profit to him, for all the world applies to him in all cases and +emergencies. I also was recommended to him from Hamburgh. +He is a very complaisant man, and has already shown me many civilities. +He repeats English poetry with great propriety, and speaks the language +nearly with the same facility as he does his mother language. +He is married to an amiable Englishwoman. I wish him all possible +happiness. And now let me tell you something of the so often imitated, +but perhaps inimitable<br> +<br> +<i>Vauxhall.<br> +<br> +</i>I yesterday visited Vauxhall for the first time. I had not +far to go from my lodgings, in the Adelphi Buildings, to Westminster +Bridge, where you always find a great number of boats on the Thames, +which are ready on the least signal to serve those who will pay them +a shilling or sixpence, or according to the distance.<br> +<br> +From hence I went up the Thames to Vauxhall, and as I passed along I +saw Lambeth; and the venerable old palace belonging to the archbishops +of Canterbury lying on my left.<br> +<br> +Vauxhall is, properly speaking, the name of a little village in which +the garden, now almost exclusively bearing the same name, is situated. +You pay a shilling entrance.<br> +<br> +On entering it, I really found, or fancied I found, some resemblance +to our Berlin Vauxhall, if, according to Virgil, I may be permitted +to compare small things with great ones. The walks at least, with +the paintings at the end, and the high trees, which, here and there +form a beautiful grove, or wood, on either side, were so similar to +those of Berlin, that often, as I walked along them, I seemed to transport +myself, in imagination, once more to Berlin, and forgot for a moment +that immense seas, and mountains, and kingdoms now lie between us. +I was the more tempted to indulge in this reverie as I actually met +with several gentlemen, inhabitants of Berlin, in particular Mr. S--r, +and some others, with whom I spent the evening in the most agreeable +manner. Here and there (particularly in one of the charming woods +which art has formed in this garden) you are pleasingly surprised by +the sudden appearance of the statues of the most renowned English poets +and philosophers, such as Milton, Thomson, and others. But, what +gave me most pleasure was the statue of the German composer Handel, +which, on entering the garden, is not far distant from the orchestra.<br> +<br> +This orchestra is among a number of trees situated as in a little wood, +and is an exceedingly handsome one. As you enter the garden, you +immediately hear the sound of vocal and instrumental music. There +are several female singers constantly hired here to sing in public.<br> +<br> +On each side of the orchestra are small boxes, with tables and benches, +in which you sup. The walks before these, as well as in every +other part of the garden, are crowded with people of all ranks. +I supped here with Mr. S--r, and the secretary of the Prussian ambassador, +besides a few other gentlemen from Berlin; but what most astonished +me was the boldness of the women of the town, who often rushed in upon +us by half dozens, and in the most shameless manner importuned us for +wine, for themselves and their followers. Our gentlemen thought +it either unwise, unkind, or unsafe, to refuse them so small a boon +altogether.<br> +<br> +Latish in the evening we were entertained with a sight, that is indeed +singularly curious and interesting. In a particular part of the +garden a curtain was drawn up, and by means of some mechanism of extraordinary +ingenuity, the eye and the ear are so completely deceived, that it is +not easy to persuade one’s self it is a deception, and that one +does not actually see and hear a natural waterfall from a high rock. +As everyone was flocking to this scene in crowds, there arose all at +once a loud cry of “Take care of your pockets.” This +informed us, but too clearly, that there were some pickpockets among +the crowd, who had already made some fortunate strokes.<br> +<br> +The rotunda, a magnificent circular building in the garden, particularly +engaged my attention. By means of beautiful chandeliers, and large +mirrors, it was illuminated in the most superb manner; and everywhere +decorated with delightful paintings, and statues, in the contemplation +of which you may spend several hours very agreeably, when you are tired +of the crowd and the bustle, in the walks of the garden.<br> +<br> +Among the paintings one represents the surrender of a besieged city. +If you look at this painting with attention, for any length of time, +it affects you so much that you even shed tears. The expression +of the greatest distress, even bordering on despair, on the part of +the besieged, the fearful expectation of the uncertain issue, and what +the victor will determine concerning those unfortunate people, may all +be read so plainly, and so naturally in the countenances of the inhabitants, +who are imploring for mercy, from the hoary head to the suckling whom +his mother holds up, that you quite forget yourself, and in the end +scarcely believe it to be a painting before you.<br> +<br> +You also here find the busts of the best English authors, placed all +round on the sides. Thus a Briton again meets with his Shakespeare, +Locke, Milton, and Dryden in the public places of his amusements; and +there also reveres their memory. Even the common people thus become +familiar with the names of those who have done honour to their nation; +and are taught to mention them with veneration. For this rotunda +is also an orchestra in which the music is performed in rainy weather. +But enough of Vauxhall!<br> +<br> +Certain it is that the English classical authors are read more generally, +beyond all comparison, than the German; which in general are read only +by the learned; or, at most, by the middle class of people. The +English national authors are in all hands, and read by all people, of +which the innumerable editions they have gone through are a sufficient +proof.<br> +<br> +My landlady, who is only a tailor’s widow, reads her Milton; and +tells me, that her late husband first fell in love with her on this +very account: because she read Milton with such proper emphasis. +This single instance, perhaps, would prove but little; but I have conversed +with several people of the lower class, who all knew their national +authors, and who all have read many, if not all, of them. This +elevates the lower ranks, and brings them nearer to the higher. +There is hardly any argument or dispute in conversation, in the higher +ranks, about which the lower cannot also converse or give their opinion. +Now, in Germany, since Gellert, there has as yet been no poet’s +name familiar to the people. But the quick sale of the classical +authors is here promoted also by cheap and convenient editions. +They have them all bound in pocket volumes, as well as in a more pompous +style. I myself bought Milton in duodecimo for two shillings, +neatly bound; it is such a one as I can, with great convenience, carry +in my pocket. It also appears to me to be a good fashion, which +prevails here, and here only, that the books which are most read, are +always to be had already well and neatly bound. At stalls, and +in the streets, you every now and then meet with a sort of antiquarians, +who sell single or odd volumes; sometimes perhaps of Shakespeare, etc., +so low as a penny; nay, even sometimes for a halfpenny a piece. +Of one of these itinerant antiquarians I bought the two volumes of the +Vicar of Wakefield for sixpence, <i>i.e. </i>for the half of an English +shilling. In what estimation our German literature is held in +England, I was enabled to judge, in some degree, by the printed proposals +of a book which I saw. The title was, “The Entertaining +Museum, or Complete Circulating Library,” which is to contain +a list of all the English classical authors, as well as translations +of the best French, Spanish, Italian, and even German novels.<br> +<br> +The moderate price of this book deserves also to be noticed; as by such +means books in England come more within the reach of the people; and +of course are more generally distributed among them. The advertisement +mentions that in order that everyone may have it in his power to buy +this work, and at once to furnish himself with a very valuable library, +without perceiving the expense, a number will be sent out weekly, which, +stitched, costs sixpence, and bound with the title on the back, ninepence. +The twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth numbers contain the first and second +volume of the Vicar of Wakefield, which I had just bought of the antiquarian +above-mentioned.<br> +<br> +The only translation from the German which has been particularly successful +in England, is Gesner’s “Death of Abel.” The +translation of that work has been oftener reprinted in England than +ever the original was in Germany. I have actually seen the eighteenth +edition of it; and if the English preface is to be regarded, it was +written by a lady. “Klopstock’s Messiah,” as +is well known, has been here but ill received; to be sure, they say +it is but indifferently translated. I have not yet been able to +obtain a sight of it. The Rev. Mr. Wendeborn has written a grammar +for the German language in English, for the use of Englishmen, which +has met with much applause.<br> +<br> +I must not forget to mention, that the works of Mr. Jacob Boehmen are +all translated into English.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER V.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>London</i>, <i>13th June.<br> +<br> +</i>Often as I had heard Ranelagh spoken of, I had yet formed only an +imperfect idea of it. I supposed it to be a garden somewhat different +from that of Vauxhall; but, in fact, I hardly knew what I thought of +it. Yesterday evening I took a walk in order to visit this famous +place of amusement; but I missed my way and got to Chelsea; where I +met a man with a wheel-barrow, who not only very civilly showed me the +right road, but also conversed with me the whole of the distance which +we walked together. And finding, upon enquiry, that I was a subject +of the King of Prussia, he desired me, with much eagerness, to relate +to him some anecdotes concerning that mighty monarch. At length +I arrived at Ranelagh; and having paid my half-crown on entrance, I +soon enquired for the garden door, and it was readily shown to me; when, +to my infinite astonishment, I found myself in a poor, mean-looking, +and ill-lighted garden, where I met but few people. I had not +been here long before I was accosted by a young lady, who also was walking +there, and who, without ceremony, offered me her arm, asking me why +I walked thus solitarily? I now concluded, this could not possibly +be the splendid, much-boasted Ranelagh; and so, seeing not far from +me a number of people entering a door, I followed them, in hopes either +to get out again, or to vary the scene.<br> +<br> +But it is impossible to describe, or indeed to conceive, the effect +it had on me, when, coming out of the gloom of the garden, I suddenly +entered a round building, illuminated by many hundred lamps; the splendour +and beauty of which surpassed everything of the kind I had ever seen +before. Everything seemed here to be round; above, there was a +gallery divided into boxes; and in one part of it an organ with a beautiful +choir, from which issued both instrumental and vocal music. All +around, under this gallery, are handsome painted boxes for those who +wish to take refreshments: the floor was covered with mats, in the middle +of which are four high black pillars; within which there are neat fire-places +for preparing tea, coffee and punch; and all around, also, there are +placed tables, set out with all kinds of refreshments. Within +these four pillars, in a kind of magic rotundo, all the beau-monde of +London move perpetually round and round.<br> +<br> +I at first mixed with this immense concourse of people, of all sexes, +ages, countries, and characters; and I must confess, that the incessant +change of faces, the far greater number of which were strikingly beautiful, +together with the illumination, the extent and majestic splendour of +the place, with the continued sound of the music, makes an inconceivably +delightful impression on the imagination; and I take the liberty to +add, that, on seeing it now for the first time, I felt pretty nearly +the same sensations that I remember to have felt when, in early youth, +I first read the Fairy Tales.<br> +<br> +Being, however, at length tired of the crowd, and being tired also with +always moving round and round in a circle, I sat myself down in one +of the boxes, in order to take some refreshment, and was now contemplating +at my ease this prodigious collection and crowd of a happy, cheerful +world, who were here enjoying themselves devoid of care, when a waiter +very civilly asked me what refreshments I wished to have, and in a few +moments returned with what I asked for. To my astonishment he +would accept no money for these refreshments; which I could not comprehend, +till he told me that everything was included in the half-crown I had +paid at the door; and that I had only to command if I wished for anything +more; but that if I pleased, I might give him as a present a trifling +douceur. This I gave him with pleasure, as I could not help fancying +I was hardly entitled to so much civility and good attention for one +single half-crown.<br> +<br> +I now went up into the gallery, and seated myself in one of the boxes +there; and from thence becoming all at once a grave and moralising spectator, +I looked down on the concourse of people who were still moving round +and round in the fairy circle; and then I could easily distinguish several +stars and other orders of knighthood; French queues and bags contrasted +with plain English heads of hair, or professional wigs; old age and +youth, nobility and commonalty, all passing each other in the motley +swarm. An Englishman who joined me during this my reverie, pointed +out to me on my enquiring, princes and lords with their dazzling stars; +with which they eclipsed the less brilliant part of the company.<br> +<br> +Here some moved round in an eternal circle to see and be seen; there +a group of eager connoisseurs had placed themselves before the orchestra +and were feasting their ears, while others at the well-supplied tables +were regaling the parched roofs of their mouths in a more substantial +manner, and again others, like myself, were sitting alone, in the corner +of a box in the gallery, making their remarks and reflections on so +interesting a scene.<br> +<br> +I now and then indulged myself in the pleasure of exchanging, for some +minutes, all this magnificence and splendour for the gloom of the garden, +in order to renew the pleasing surprise I experienced on my first entering +the building. Thus I spent here some hours in the night in a continual +variation of entertainment; when the crowd now all at once began to +lessen, and I also took a coach and drove home.<br> +<br> +At Ranelagh the company appeared to me much better, and more select +than at Vauxhall; for those of the lower class who go there, always +dress themselves in their best, and thus endeavour to copy the great. +Here I saw no one who had not silk stockings on. Even the poorest +families are at the expense of a coach to go to Ranelagh, as my landlady +assured me. She always fixed on some one day in the year, on which, +without fail, she drove to Ranelagh. On the whole the expense +at Ranelagh is nothing near so great as it is at Vauxhall, if you consider +the refreshments; for any one who sups at Vauxhall, which most people +do, is likely, for a very moderate supper, to pay at least half-a-guinea.<br> +<br> +<i>The Parliament.<br> +<br> +</i>I had almost forgotten to tell you that I have already been to the +Parliament House; and yet this is of most importance. For, had +I seen nothing else in England but this, I should have thought my journey +thither amply rewarded.<br> +<br> +As little as I have hitherto troubled myself with politics, because +indeed with us it is but little worth our while, I was however desirous +of being present at a meeting of parliament - a wish that was soon amply +gratified.<br> +<br> +One afternoon, about three o’clock, at which hour, or thereabouts, +the house most commonly meets, I enquired for Westminster Hall, and +was very politely directed by an Englishman. These directions +are always given with the utmost kindness. You may ask whom you +please, if you can only make yourself tolerably well understood; and +by thus asking every now and then, you may with the greatest ease find +your way throughout all London.<br> +<br> +Westminster Hall is an enormous Gothic building, whose vaulted roof +is supported, not by pillars, but instead of these there are, on each +side, large unnatural heads of angels, carved in wood, which seem to +support the roof.<br> +<br> +When you have passed through this long hall, you ascend a few steps +at the end, and are led through a dark passage into the House of Commons, +which, below, has a large double-door; and above, there is a small staircase, +by which you go to the gallery, the place allotted for strangers.<br> +<br> +The first time I went up this small staircase, and had reached the rails, +I saw a very genteel man in black standing there. I accosted him +without any introduction, and I asked him whether I might be allowed +to go into the gallery. He told me that I must be introduced by +a member, or else I could not get admission there. Now, as I had +not the honour to be acquainted with a member, I was under the mortifying +necessity of retreating, and again going down-stairs, as I did much +chagrined. And now, as I was sullenly marching back, I heard something +said about a bottle of wine, which seemed to be addressed to me.<br> +<br> +I could not conceive what it could mean, till I got home, when my obliging +landlady told me I should have given the well-dressed man half-a-crown, +or a couple of shillings for a bottle of wine. Happy in this information, +I went again the next day; when the same man who before had sent me +away, after I had given him only two shillings, very politely opened +the door for me, and himself recommended me to a good seat in the gallery.<br> +<br> +And thus I now, for the first time, saw the whole of the British nation +assembled in its representatives, in rather a mean-looking building, +that not a little resembles a chapel. The Speaker, an elderly +man, with an enormous wig, with two knotted kind of tresses, or curls, +behind, in a black cloak, his hat on his head, sat opposite to me on +a lofty chair; which was not unlike a small pulpit, save only that in +the front of there was no reading-desk. Before the Speaker’s +chair stands a table, which looks like an altar; and at this there sit +two men, called clerks, dressed in black, with black cloaks. On +the table, by the side of the great parchment acts, lies a huge gilt +sceptre, which is always taken away, and placed in a conservatory under +the table, as soon as ever the Speaker quits the chair; which he does +as often as the House resolves itself into a committee. A committee +means nothing more than that the House puts itself into a situation +freely to discuss and debate any point of difficulty and moment, and, +while it lasts, the Speaker partly lays aside his power as a legislator. +As soon as this is over, some one tells the Speaker that he may now +again be seated; and immediately on the Speaker being again in the chair, +the sceptre is also replaced on the table before him.<br> +<br> +All round on the sides of the house, under the gallery, are benches +for the members, covered with green cloth, always one above the other, +like our choirs in churches, in order that he who is speaking may see +over those who sit before him. The seats in the gallery are on +the same plan. The members of parliament keep their hats on, but +the spectators in the gallery are uncovered.<br> +<br> +The members of the House of Commons have nothing particular in their +dress. They even come into the House in their great coats, and +with boots and spurs. It is not at all uncommon to see a member +lying stretched out on one of the benches while others are debating. +Some crack nuts, others eat oranges, or whatever else is in season. +There is no end to their going in and out; and as often as any one wishes +to go out, he places himself before the Speaker, and makes him his bow, +as if, like a schoolboy, he asked tutor’s permission.<br> +<br> +Those who speak seem to deliver themselves with but little, perhaps +not always with even a decorous, gravity. All that is necessary +is to stand up in your place, take off your hat, turn to the Speaker +(to whom all the speeches are addressed), to hold your hat and stick +in one hand, and with the other to make any such motions as you fancy +necessary to accompany your speech.<br> +<br> +If it happens that a member rises who is but a bad speaker, or if what +he says is generally deemed not sufficiently interesting, so much noise +is made, and such bursts of laughter are raised, that the member who +is speaking can scarcely distinguish his own words. This must +needs be a distressing situation; and it seems then to be particularly +laughable, when the Speaker in his chair, like a tutor in a school, +again and again endeavours to restore order, which he does by calling +out “<i>To order, to order</i>,” apparently often without +much attention being paid to it.<br> +<br> +On the contrary, when a favourite member, and one who speaks well and +to the purpose, rises, the most perfect silence reigns, and his friends +and admirers, one after another, make their approbation known by calling +out, “<i>Hear him</i>,” which is often repeated by the whole +House at once; and in this way so much noise is often made that the +speaker is frequently interrupted by this same emphatic “<i>Hear +him</i>.” Notwithstanding which, this calling out is always +regarded as a great encouragement; and I have often observed that one +who began with some diffidence, and even somewhat inauspiciously, has +in the end been so animated that he has spoken with a torrent of eloquence.<br> +<br> +As all speeches are directed to the Speaker, all the members always +preface their speeches with “<i>Sir</i>” and he, on being +thus addressed, generally moves his hat a little, but immediately puts +it on again. This “<i>Sir</i>” is often introduced +in the course of their speeches, and serves to connect what is said. +It seems also to stand the orator in some stead when any one’s +memory fails him, or he is otherwise at a loss for matter. For +while he is saying “<i>Sir</i>,” and has thus obtained a +little pause, he recollects what is to follow. Yet I have sometimes +seen some members draw a kind of memorandum-book out of their pockets, +like a candidate who is at a loss in his sermon. This is the only +instance in which a member of the British parliament seems to read his +speeches.<br> +<br> +The first day that I was at the House of Commons an English gentleman +who sat next to me in the gallery very obligingly pointed out to me +the principal members, such as Fox, Burke, Rigby, etc., all of whom +I heard speak. The debate happened to be whether, besides being +made a peer, any other specific reward should be bestowed by the nation +on their gallant admiral Rodney. In the course of the debate, +I remember, Mr. Fox was very sharply reprimanded by young Lord Fielding +for having, when minister, opposed the election of Admiral Hood as a +member for Westminster.<br> +<br> +Fox was sitting to the right of the Speaker, not far from the table +on which the gilt sceptre lay. He now took his place so near it +that he could reach it with his hand, and, thus placed, he gave it many +a violent and hearty thump, either to aid, or to show the energy with +which he spoke. If the charge was vehement, his defence was no +less so. He justified himself against Lord Fielding by maintaining +that he had not opposed this election in the character of a minister, +but as an individual, or private person; and that, as such, he had freely +and honestly given his vote for another - namely, for Sir Cecil Wray, +adding that the King, when he appointed him Secretary of State, had +entered into no agreement with him by which he lost his vote as an individual; +to such a requisition he never would have submitted. It is impossible +for me to describe with what fire and persuasive eloquence he spoke, +and how the Speaker in the chair incessantly nodded approbation from +beneath his solemn wig, and innumerable voices incessantly called out, +“Hear him! hear him!” and when there was the least sign +that he intended to leave off speaking they no less vociferously exclaimed, +“Go on;” and so he continued to speak in this manner for +nearly two hours. Mr. Rigby, in reply, made a short but humorous +speech, in which he mentioned of how little consequence the title of +“lord” and “lady” was without money to support +it, and finished with the Latin proverb, “infelix paupertas - +quia ridiculos miseros facit.” After having first very judiciously +observed that previous inquiry should be made whether Admiral Rodney +had made any rich prizes or captures; because, if that should be the +case, he would not stand in need of further reward in money. I +have since been almost every day at the parliament house, and prefer +the entertainment I there meet with to most other amusements.<br> +<br> +Fox is still much beloved by the people, notwithstanding that they are +(and certainly with good reason) displeased at his being the cause of +Admiral Rodney’s recall, though even I have heard him again and +again almost extravagant in his encomiums on this noble admiral. +The same celebrated Charles Fox is a short, fat, and gross man, with +a swarthy complexion, and dark; and in general he is badly dressed. +There certainly is something Jewish in his looks. But upon the +whole, he is not an ill-made nor an ill-looking man, and there are many +strong marks of sagacity and fire in his eyes. I have frequently +heard the people here say that this same Mr. Fox is as cunning as a +fox. Burke is a well-made, tall, upright man, but looks elderly +and broken. Rigby is excessively corpulent, and has a jolly rubicund +face.<br> +<br> +The little less than downright open abuse, and the many really rude +things which the members said to each other, struck me much. For +example, when one has finished, another rises, and immediately taxes +with absurdity all that the right honourable gentleman (for with this +title the members of the House of Commons always honour each other) +had just advanced. It would, indeed, be contrary to the rules +of the House flatly to tell each other that what they have spoken is +<i>false, </i>or even <i>foolish</i>. Instead of this, they turn +themselves, as usual, to the Speaker, and so, whilst their address is +directed to him, they fancy they violate neither the rules of parliament +nor those of good breeding and decorum, whilst they utter the most cutting +personal sarcasms against the member or the measure they oppose.<br> +<br> +It is quite laughable to see, as one sometimes does, one member speaking, +and another accompanying the speech with his action. This I remarked +more than once in a worthy old citizen, who was fearful of speaking +himself, but when his neighbour spoke he accompanied every energetic +sentence with a suitable gesticulation, by which means his whole body +was sometimes in motion.<br> +<br> +It often happens that the jett, or principal point in the debate is +lost in these personal contests and bickerings between each other. +When they last so long as to become quite tedious and tiresome, and +likely to do harm rather than good, the House takes upon itself to express +its disapprobation; and then there arises a general cry of, “The +question! the question!” This must sometimes be frequently +repeated, as the contending members are both anxious to have the last +word. At length, however, the question is put, and the votes taken, +when the Speaker says, “Those who are for the question are to +say <i>aye, </i>and those who are against it <i>no</i>.” +You then hear a confused cry of “<i>aye</i>” and “<i>no</i>” +but at length the Speaker says, “I think there are more <i>ayes +</i>than <i>noes</i>, or more <i>noes </i>than <i>ayes</i>. The +<i>ayes </i>have it; or the <i>noes </i>have it,” as the case +may be. But all the spectators must then retire from the gallery; +for then, and not till then, the voting really commences. And +now the members call aloud to the gallery, “Withdraw! withdraw!” +On this the strangers withdraw, and are shut up in a small room at the +foot of the stairs till the voting is over, when they are again permitted +to take their places in the gallery. Here I could not help wondering +at the impatience even of polished Englishmen. It is astonishing +with what violence, and even rudeness, they push and jostle one another +as soon as the room door is again opened, eager to gain the first and +best seats in the gallery. In this manner we (the strangers) have +sometimes been sent away two or three times in the course of one day, +or rather evening, afterwards again permitted to return. Among +these spectators are people of all ranks, and even, not unfrequently, +ladies. Two shorthand writers have sat sometimes not far distant +from me, who (though it is rather by stealth) endeavour to take down +the words of the speaker; and thus all that is very remarkable in what +is said in parliament may generally be read in print the next day. +The shorthand writers, whom I noticed, are supposed to be employed and +paid by the editors of the different newspapers. There are, it +seems, some few persons who are constant attendants on the parliament; +and so they pay the door-keeper beforehand a guinea for a whole session. +I have now and then seen some of the members bring their sons, whilst +quite little boys, and carry them to their seats along with themselves.<br> +<br> +A proposal was once made to erect a gallery in the House of Peers also +for the accommodation of spectators. But this never was carried +into effect. There appears to be much more politeness and more +courteous behaviour in the members of the upper House. But he +who wishes to observe mankind, and to contemplate the leading traits +of the different characters most strongly marked, will do well to attend +frequently the lower, rather than the other, House.<br> +<br> +Last Tuesday was (what is here called) hanging-day. There was +also a parliamentary election. I could only see one of the two +sights, and therefore naturally preferred the latter, while I only heard +tolling at a distance the death-bell of the sacrifice to justice. +I now, therefore, am going to describe to you, as well as can, an<br> +<br> +<i>Election for a Member of Parliament.<br> +<br> +</i>The cities of London and Westminster send, the one four, and the +other two, members to parliament. Mr. Fox is one of the two members +for Westminster. One seat was vacant, and that vacancy was now +to be filled. And the same Sir Cecil Wray, whom Fox had before +opposed to Lord Hood, was now publicly chosen. They tell me that +at these elections, when there is a strong opposition party, there is +often bloody work; but this election was, in the electioneering phrase, +a “hollow thing” - <i>i.e. </i>quite sure, as those who +had voted for Admiral Hood now withdrew, without standing a poll, as +being convinced beforehand their chance to succeed was desperate.<br> +<br> +The election was held in Covent Garden, a large market-place in the +open air. There was a scaffold erected just before the door of +a very handsome church, which is also called St. Paul’s, but which, +however, is not to be compared to the cathedral.<br> +<br> +A temporary edifice, formed only of boards and wood nailed together, +was erected on the occasion. It was called the hustings, and filled +with benches; and at one end of it, where the benches ended, mats were +laid, on which those who spoke to the people stood. In the area +before the hustings immense multitudes of people were assembled, of +whom the greatest part seemed to be of the lowest order. To this +tumultuous crowd, however, the speakers often bowed very low, and always +addressed them by the title of “gentlemen.” Sir Cecil +Wray was obliged to step forward and promise these same gentlemen, with +hand and heart, that he would faithfully fulfil his duties as their +representative. He also made an apology because, on account of +his long journey and ill-health, he had not been able to wait on them, +as became him, at their respective houses. The moment that he +began to speak, even this rude rabble became all as quiet as the raging +sea after a storm, only every now and then rending the air with the +parliamentary cry of “Hear him! hear him!” and as soon as +he had done speaking, they again vociferated aloud an universal “<i>huzza</i>,” +every one at the same time waving his hat.<br> +<br> +And now, being formally declared to have been legally chosen, he again +bowed most profoundly, and returned thanks for the great honour done +him, when a well-dressed man, whose name I could not learn, stepped +forward, and in a well-indited speech congratulated both the chosen +and the choosers. “Upon my word,” said a gruff carter +who stood near me, “that man speaks well.”<br> +<br> +Even little boys clambered up and hung on the rails and on the lamp-posts; +and as if the speeches had also been addressed to them, they too listened +with the utmost attention, and they too testified their approbation +of it by joining lustily in the three cheers and waving their hats.<br> +<br> +All the enthusiasm of my earliest years kindled by the patriotism of +the illustrious heroes of Rome. Coriolanus, Julius Cæsar, +and Antony were now revived in my mind; and though all I had just seen +and heard be, in fact, but the semblance of liberty, and that, too, +tribunitial liberty, yet at that moment I thought it charming, and it +warmed my heart. Yes, depend on it, my friend, when you here see +how, in the happy country, the lowest and meanest member of society +thus unequivocally testifies the interest which he takes in everything +of a public nature; when you see how even women and children bear a +part in the great concerns of their country; in short, how high and +low, rich and poor, all concur in declaring their feelings and their +convictions that a carter, a common tar, or a scavenger, is still a +man - nay, an Englishman, and as such has his rights and privileges +defined and known as exactly and as well as his king, or as his king’s +minister - take my word for it, you will feel yourself very differently +affected from what you are when staring at our soldiers in their exercises +at Berlin.<br> +<br> +When Fox, who was among the voters, arrived at the beginning of the +election, he too was received with an universal shout of joy. +At length, when it was nearly over, the people took it into their heads +to hear him speak, and every one called out, “Fox! Fox!” +I know not why, but I seemed to catch some of the spirit of the place +and time, and so I also bawled “Fox! Fox!” and he +was obliged to come forward and speak, for no other reason that I could +find but that the people wished to hear him speak. In this speech +he again confirmed, in the presence of the people, his former declaration +in parliament, that he by no means had any influence as minister of +State in this election, but only and merely as a private person.<br> +<br> +When the whole was over, the rampant spirit of liberty and the wild +impatience of a genuine English mob were exhibited in perfection. +In a very few minutes the whole scaffolding, benches, and chairs, and +everything else, was completely destroyed. and the mat with which it +had been covered torn into ten thousand long strips, or pieces, or strings, +with which they encircled or enclosed multitudes of people of all ranks. +These they hurried along with them, and everything else that came in +their way, as trophies of joy; and thus, in the midst of exultation +and triumph, they paraded through many of the most populous streets +of London.<br> +<br> +Whilst in Prussia poets only speak of the love of country as one of +the dearest of all human affections, here there is no man who does not +feel, and describe with rapture, how much he loves his country. +“Yes, for my country I’ll shed the last drop of my blood!” +often exclaims little Jacky, the fine boy here in the house where I +live, who is yet only about twelve years old. The love of their +country, and its unparalleled feats in war are, in general, the subject +of their ballads and popular songs, which are sung about the streets +by women, who sell them for a few farthings. It was only the other +day our Jacky brought one home, in which the history of an admiral was +celebrated who bravely continued to command, even after his two legs +were shot off and he was obliged to be supported. I know not well +by what means it has happened that the King of England, who is certainly +one of the best the nation ever had, is become unpopular. I know +not how many times I have heard people of all sorts object to their +king at the same time that they praised the King of Prussia to the skies. +Indeed, with some the veneration for our monarch went so far that they +seriously wished he was their king. All that seems to shock and +dishearten them is the prodigious armies he keeps up, and the immense +number of soldiers quartered in Berlin alone. Whereas in London, +at least in the city, not a single troop of soldiers of the King’s +guard dare make their appearance.<br> +<br> +A few days ago I saw what is here deemed a great sight - viz., a lord +mayor’s procession. The lord mayor was in an enormous large +gilt coach, which was followed by an astonishing number of most showy +carriages, in which the rest of the city magistrates, more properly +called aldermen of London, were seated. But enough for the present.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER VI.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>London, June</i> 17<i>th, </i>1782.<br> +<br> +I have now been pretty nearly all over London, and, according to my +own notions, have now seen most of the things I was most anxious to +see. Hereafter, then, I propose to make an excursion into the +country; and this purpose, by the blessing of God, I hope to be able +to carry into effect in a very few days, for my curiosity is here almost +satiated. I seem to be tired and sick of the smoke of these sea-coal +fires, and I long, with almost childish impatience, once more to breathe +a fresher and clearer air.<br> +<br> +It must, I think, be owned, that upon the whole, London is neither so +handsomely nor so well built as Berlin is; but then it certainly has +far more fine squares. Of these there are many that in real magnificence +and beautiful symmetry far surpass our Gens d’Armes Markt, our +Denhoschen and William’s Place. The squares or quadrangular +places contain the best and most beautiful buildings of London; a spacious +street, next to the houses, goes all round them, and within that there +is generally a round grass-plot, railed in with iron rails, in the centre +of which, in many of them, there is a statue, which statues most commonly +are equestrian and gilt. In Grosvenor Square, instead of this +green plot or area, there is a little circular wood, intended, no doubt, +to give one the idea of <i>rus in urbe.<br> +<br> +</i>One of the longest and pleasantest walks I have yet taken is from +Paddington to Islington; where to the left you have a fine prospect +of the neighbouring hills, and in particular of the village of Hampstead, +which is built on one of them; and to the right the streets of London +furnish an endless variety of interesting views. It is true that +it is dangerous to walk here alone, especially in the afternoon and +in an evening, or at night, for it was only last week that a man was +robbed and murdered on this very same road. But I now hasten to +another and a more pleasing topic:<br> +<br> +<i>The British Museum.<br> +<br> +</i>I have had the happiness to become acquainted with the Rev. Mr. +Woide; who, though well known all over Europe to be one of the most +learned men of the age, is yet, if possible, less estimable for his +learning than he is for his unaffected goodness of heart. He holds +a respectable office in the museum, and was obliging enough to procure +me permission to see it, luckily the day before it was shut up. +In general you must give in your name a fortnight before you can he +admitted. But after all, I am sorry to say, it was the rooms, +the glass cases, the shelves, or the repository for the books in the +British Museum which I saw, and not the museum itself, we were hurried +on so rapidly through the apartments. The company, who saw it +when and as I did, was various, and some of all sorts; some, I believe, +of the very lowest classes of the people, of both sexes; for, as it +is the property of the nation, every one has the same right (I use the +term of the country) to see it that another has. I had Mr. Wendeborn’s +book in my pocket, and it, at least, enabled me to take a somewhat more +particular notice of some of the principal things; such as the Egyptian +mummy, a head of Homer, &c. The rest of the company, observing +that I had some assistance which they had not, soon gathered round me; +I pointed out to them as we went along, from Mr. Wendeborn’s German +book, what there was most worth seeing here. The gentleman who +conducted us took little pains to conceal the contempt which he felt +for my communications when he found out that it was only a German description +of the British Museum I had got. The rapidly passing through this +vast suite of rooms, in a space of time little, if at all, exceeding +an hour, with leisure just to cast one poor longing look of astonishment +on all these stupendous treasures of natural curiosities, antiquities, +and literature, in the contemplation of which you could with pleasure +spend years, and a whole life might be employed in the study of them +- quite confuses, stuns, and overpowers one. In some branches +this collection is said to be far surpassed by some others; but taken +altogether, and for size, it certainly is equalled by none. The +few foreign divines who travel through England generally desire to have +the Alexandrian manuscript shewn them, in order to be convinced with +their own eyes whether the passage, “These are the three that +bear record, &c.,” is to be found there or not.<br> +<br> +The Rev. Mr. Woide lives at a place called Lisson Street, not far from +Paddington; a very village-looking little town, at the west end of London. +It is quite a rural and pleasant situation; for here I either do, or +fancy I do, already breathe a purer and freer air than in the midst +of the town. Of his great abilities, and particularly in oriental +literature, I need not inform you; but it will give you pleasure to +hear that he is actually meditating a fac-simile edition of the Alexandrian +MS. I have already mentioned the infinite obligations I lie under +to this excellent man for his extraordinary courtesy and kindness.<br> +<br> +<i>The Theatre in the Haymarket.<br> +<br> +</i>Last week I went twice to an English play-house. The first +time “The Nabob” was represented, of which the late Mr. +Foote was the author, and for the entertainment, a very pleasing and +laughable musical farce, called “The Agreeable Surprise.” +The second time I saw “The English Merchant:” which piece +has been translated into German, and is known among us by the title +of “The Scotchwoman,” or “The Coffee-house.” +I have not yet seen the theatres of Covent Garden and Drury Lane, because +they are not open in summer. The best actors also usually spend +May and October in the country, and only perform in winter.<br> +<br> +A very few excepted, the comedians whom I saw were certainly nothing +extraordinary. For a seat in the boxes you pay five shillings, +in the pit three, in the first gallery two, and in the second or upper +gallery, one shilling. And it is the tenants in this upper gallery +who, for their shilling, make all that noise and uproar for which the +English play-houses are so famous. I was in the pit, which gradually +rises, amphitheatre-wise, from the orchestra, and is furnished with +benches, one above another, from the top to the bottom. Often +and often, whilst I sat there, did a rotten orange, or pieces of the +peel of an orange, fly past me, or past some of my neighbours, and once +one of them actually hit my hat, without my daring to look round, for +fear another might then hit me on my face.<br> +<br> +All over London as one walks, one everywhere, in the season, sees oranges +to sell; and they are in general sold tolerably cheap, one and even +sometimes two for a halfpenny; or, in our money, threepence. At +the play-house, however, they charged me sixpence for one orange, and +that noways remarkably good.<br> +<br> +Besides this perpetual pelting from the gallery, which renders an English +play-house so uncomfortable, there is no end to their calling out and +knocking with their sticks till the curtain is drawn up. I saw +a miller’s, or a baker’s boy, thus, like a huge booby, leaning +over the rails and knocking again and again on the outside, with all +his might, so that he was seen by everybody, without being in the least +ashamed or abashed. I sometimes heard, too, the people in the +lower or middle gallery quarrelling with those of the upper one. +Behind me, in the pit, sat a young fop, who, in order to display his +costly stone buckles with the utmost brilliancy, continually put his +foot on my bench, and even sometimes upon my coat, which I could avoid +only by sparing him as much space from my portion of the seat as would +make him a footstool. In the boxes, quite in a corner, sat several +servants, who were said to be placed there to keep the seats for the +families they served till they should arrive; they seemed to sit remarkably +close and still, the reason of which, I was told, was their apprehension +of being pelted; for if one of them dares but to look out of the box, +he is immediately saluted with a shower of orange peel from the gallery.<br> +<br> +In Foote’s “Nabob” there are sundry local and personal +satires which are entirely lost to a foreigner. The character +of the Nabob was performed by a Mr. Palmer. The jett of the character +is, this Nabob, with many affected airs and constant aims at gentility, +is still but a silly fellow, unexpectedly come into the possession of +immense riches, and therefore, of course, paid much court to by a society +of natural philosophers, Quakers, and I do not know who besides. +Being tempted to become one of their members, he is elected, and in +order to ridicule these would-be philosophers, but real knaves, a fine +flowery fustian speech is put into his mouth, which he delivers with +prodigious pomp and importance, and is listened to by the philosophers +with infinite complacency. The two scenes of the Quakers and philosophers, +who, with countenances full of imaginary importance, were seated at +a green table with their president at their head while the secretary, +with the utmost care, was making an inventory of the ridiculous presents +of the Nabob, were truly laughable. One of the last scenes was +best received: it is that in which the Nabob’s friend and school-fellow +visit him, and address him without ceremony by his Christian name; but +to all their questions of “Whether he does not recollect them? +Whether he does not remember such and such a play; or such and such +a scrape into which they had fallen in their youth?” he uniformly +answers with a look of ineffable contempt, only, “No sir!” +Nothing can possibly be more ludicrous, nor more comic.<br> +<br> +The entertainment, “The Agreeable Surprise,” is really a +very diverting farce. I observed that, in England also, they represent +school-masters in ridiculous characters on the stage, which, though +I am sorry for, I own I do not wonder at, as the pedantry of school-masters +in England, they tell me, is carried at least as far as it is elsewhere. +The same person who, in the play, performed the school-fellow of the +Nabob with a great deal of nature and original humour, here acted the +part of the school-master: his name is Edwin, and he is, without doubt, +one of the best actors of all that I have seen.<br> +<br> +This school-master is in love with a certain country girl, whose name +is Cowslip, to whom he makes a declaration of his passion in a strange +mythological, grammatical style and manner, and to whom, among other +fooleries, he sings, quite enraptured, the following air, and seems +to work himself at least up to such a transport of passion as quite +overpowers him. He begins, you will observe, with the conjugation, +and ends with the declensions and the genders; the whole is inimitably +droll:<br> +<br> +<br> +“Amo, amas,<br> +I love a lass,<br> +She is so sweet and tender,<br> +It is sweet Cowslip’s Grace<br> +In the Nominative Case.<br> +And in the feminine Gender.”<br> +<br> +<br> +Those two sentences in particular, “in the Nominative Case,” +and “in the feminine Gender,” he affects to sing in a particularly +languishing air, as if confident that it was irresistible. This +Edwin, in all his comic characters, still preserves something so inexpressibly +good-tempered in his countenance, that notwithstanding all his burlesques +and even grotesque buffoonery, you cannot but be pleased with him. +I own, I felt myself doubly interested for every character which he +represented. Nothing could equal the tone and countenance of self-satisfaction +with which he answered one who asked him whether he was a scholar? +“Why, I was a master of scholars.” A Mrs. Webb represented +a cheesemonger, and played the part of a woman of the lower class so +naturally as I have nowhere else ever seen equalled. Her huge, +fat, and lusty carcase, and the whole of her external appearance seemed +quite to be cut out for it.<br> +<br> +Poor Edwin was obliged, as school-master, to sing himself almost hoarse, +as he sometimes was called on to repeat his declension and conjugation +songs two or three times, only because it pleased the upper gallery, +or “the gods,” as the English call them, to roar out “encore.” +Add to all this, he was farther forced to thank them with a low bow +for the great honour done him by their applause.<br> +<br> +One of the highest comic touches in the piece seemed to me to consist +in a lie, which always became more and more enormous in the mouths of +those who told it again, during the whole of the piece. This kept +the audience in almost a continual fit of laughter. This farce +is not yet printed, or I really think I should be tempted to venture +to make a translation, or rather an imitation of it.<br> +<br> +“The English Merchant, or the Scotchwoman,” I have seen +much better performed abroad than it was here. Mr. Fleck, at Hamburg, +in particular, played the part of the English merchant with more interest, +truth, and propriety than one Aickin did here. He seemed to me +to fail totally in expressing the peculiar and original character of +Freeport; instead of which, by his measured step and deliberate, affected +manner of speaking, he converted him into a mere fine gentleman.<br> +<br> +The trusty old servant who wishes to give up his life for his master +he, too, had the stately walk, or strut, of a minister. The character +of the newspaper writer was performed by the same Mr. Palmer who acted +the part of the Nabob, but every one said, what I thought, that he made +him far too much of a gentleman. His person, and his dress also, +were too handsome for the character.<br> +<br> +The character of Amelia was performed by an actress, who made her first +appearance on the stage, and from a timidity natural on such an occasion, +and not unbecoming, spoke rather low, so that she could not everywhere +be heard; “Speak louder! speak louder!” cried out some rude +fellow from the upper-gallery, and she immediately, with infinite condescension, +did all she could, and not unsuccessfully, to please even an upper gallery +critic.<br> +<br> +The persons near me, in the pit, were often extravagantly lavish of +their applause. They sometimes clapped a single solitary sentiment, +that was almost as unmeaning as it was short, if it happened to be pronounced +only with some little emphasis, or to contain some little point, some +popular doctrine, a singularly pathetic stroke, or turn of wit.<br> +<br> +“The Agreeable Surprise” was repeated, and I saw it a second +time with unabated pleasure. It is become a favourite piece, and +always announced with the addition of the favourite musical farce. +The theatre appeared to me somewhat larger than the one at Hamburg, +and the house was both times very full. Thus much for English +plays, play-houses, and players.<br> +<br> +<i>English Customs and Education.<br> +<br> +</i>A few words more respecting pedantry. I have seen the regulation +of one seminary of learning, here called an academy. Of these +places of education, there is a prodigious number in London, though, +notwithstanding their pompous names, they are in reality nothing more +than small schools set up by private persons, for children and young +people.<br> +<br> +One of the Englishmen who were my travelling companions, made me acquainted +with a Dr. G-- who lives near P--, and keeps an academy for the education +of twelve young people, which number is here, as well as at our Mr. +Kumpe’s, never exceeded, and the same plan has been adopted and +followed by many others, both here and elsewhere.<br> +<br> +At the entrance I perceived over the door of the house a large board, +and written on it, Dr. G--’s Academy. Dr. G-- received me +with great courtesy as a foreigner, and shewed me his school-room, which +was furnished just in the same manner as the classes in our public schools +are, with benches and a professor’s chair or pulpit.<br> +<br> +The usher at Dr. G--’s is a young clergyman, who, seated also +in a chair or desk, instructs the boys in the Greek and Latin grammars.<br> +<br> +Such an under-teacher is called an usher, and by what I can learn, is +commonly a tormented being, exactly answering the exquisite description +given of him in the “Vicar of Wakefield.” We went +in during the hours of attendance, and he was just hearing the boys +decline their Latin, which he did in the old jog-trot way; and I own +it had an odd sound to my ears, when instead of pronouncing, for example +<i>viri veeree </i>I heard them say <i>viri, of the man, </i>exactly +according to the English pronunciation, and <i>viro, to the man. +</i>The case was just the same afterwards with the Greek.<br> +<br> +Mr. G-- invited us to dinner, when I became acquainted with his wife, +a very genteel young woman, whose behaviour to the children was such +that she might be said to contribute more to their education than any +one else. The children drank nothing but water. For every +boarder Dr. G-- receives yearly no more than thirty pounds sterling, +which however, he complained of as being too little. From forty +to fifty pounds is the most that is generally paid in these academies.<br> +<br> +I told him of our improvements in the manner of education, and also +spoke to him of the apparent great worth of character of his usher. +He listened very attentively, but seemed to have thought little himself +on this subject. Before and after dinner the Lord’s Prayer +was repeated in French, which is done in several places, as if they +were eager not to waste without some improvement, even this opportunity +also, to practise the French, and thus at once accomplish two points. +I afterwards told him my opinion of this species of prayer, which however, +he did not take amiss.<br> +<br> +After dinner the boys had leave to play in a very small yard, which +in most schools or academies, in the city of London, is the <i>ne</i> +<i>plus ultra </i>of their playground in their hours of recreation. +But Mr. G-- has another garden at the end of the town, where he sometimes +takes them to walk.<br> +<br> +After dinner Mr. G-- himself instructed the children in writing, arithmetic, +and French, all which seemed to be well taught here, especially writing, +in which the young people in England far surpass, I believe, all others. +This may perhaps be owing to their having occasion to learn only one +sort of letters. As the midsummer holidays were now approaching +(at which time the children in all the academies go home for four weeks), +everyone was obliged with the utmost care to copy a written model, in +order to show it to their parents, because this article is most particularly +examined, as everybody can tell what is or is not good writing. +The boys knew all the rules of syntax by heart.<br> +<br> +All these academies are in general called boarding-schools. Some +few retain the old name of schools only, though it is possible that +in real merit they may excel the so much-boasted of academies.<br> +<br> +It is in general the clergy, who have small incomes, who set up these +schools both in town and country, and grown up people who are foreigners, +are also admitted here to learn the English language. Mr. G-- +charged for board, lodging, and instruction in the English, two guineas +a-week. He however, who is desirous of perfecting himself in the +English, will do better to go some distance into the country, and board +himself with any clergyman who takes scholars, where he will hear nothing +but English spoken, and may at every opportunity be taught both by young +and old.<br> +<br> +There are in England, besides the two universities, but few great schools +or colleges. In London, there are only St. Paul’s and Westminster +schools; the rest are almost all private institutions, in which there +reigns a kind of family education, which is certainly the most natural, +if properly conducted. Some few grammar schools, or Latin schools, +are notwithstanding here and there to be met with, where the master +receives a fixed salary, besides the ordinary profits of the school +paid by the scholars.<br> +<br> +You see in the streets of London, great and little boys running about +in long blue coats, which, like robes, reach quite down to the feet, +and little white bands, such as the clergy wear. These belong +to a charitable institution, or school, which hears the name of the +Blue Coat School. The singing of the choristers in the streets, +so usual with us, is not at all customary here. Indeed, there +is in England, or at least in London, such a constant walking, riding, +and driving up and down in the streets, that it would not be very practicable. +Parents here in general, nay even those of the lowest classes, seem +to be kind and indulgent to their children, and do not, like our common +people, break their spirits too much by blows and sharp language. +Children should certainly be inured early to set a proper value on themselves; +whereas with us, parents of the lower class bring up their children +to the same slavery under which they themselves groan.<br> +<br> +Notwithstanding the constant new appetites and calls of fashion, they +here remain faithful to nature - till a certain age. What a contrast, +when I figure to myself our petted, pale-faced Berlin boys, at six years +old, with a large bag, and all the parade of grown-up persons, nay even +with laced coats; and here, on the contrary see nothing but fine, ruddy, +slim, active boys, with their bosoms open, and their hair cut on their +forehead, whilst behind it flows naturally in ringlets. It is +something uncommon here to meet a young man, and more especially a boy, +with a pale or sallow face, with deformed features, or disproportioned +limbs. With us, alas! it is not to be concealed, the case is very +much otherwise; if it were not, handsome people would hardly strike +us so very much as they do in this country.<br> +<br> +This free, loose, and natural dress is worn till they are eighteen, +or even till they are twenty. It is then, indeed, discontinued +by the higher ranks, but with the common people it always remains the +same. They then begin to have their hair dressed, and curled with +irons, to give the head a large bushy appearance, and half their backs +are covered with powder. I am obliged to remain still longer under +the hands of an English, than I was under a German hair-dresser; and +to sweat under his hot irons with which he curls my hair all over, in +order that I may appear among Englishmen, somewhat English. I +must here observe that the English hair-dressers are also barbers, an +office however, which they perform very badly indeed; though I cannot +but consider shaving as a far more proper employment for these petit +maîtres than it is for surgeons, who you know in our country are +obliged to shave us. It is incredible how much the English at +present Frenchify themselves; the only things yet wanting are bags and +swords, with which at least I have seen no one walking publicly, but +I am told they are worn at court.<br> +<br> +In the morning it is usual to walk out in a sort of negligée +or morning dress, your hair not dressed, but merely rolled up in rollers, +and in a frock and boots. In Westminster, the morning lasts till +four or five o’clock, at which time they dine, and supper and +going to bed are regulated accordingly. They generally do not +breakfast till ten o’clock. The farther you go from the +court into the city, the more regular and domestic the people become; +and there they generally dine about three o’clock, <i>i.e. </i>as +soon as the business or ‘Change is over.<br> +<br> +Trimmed suits are not yet worn, and the most usual dress is in summer, +a short white waistcoat, black breeches, white silk stockings, and a +frock, generally of very dark blue cloth, which looks like black; and +the English seem in general to prefer dark colours. If you wish +to be full dressed, you wear black. Officers rarely wear their +uniforms, but dress like other people, and are to be known to be officers +only by a cockade in their hats.<br> +<br> +It is a common observation, that the more solicitous any people are +about dress, the more effeminate they are. I attribute it entirely +to this idle adventitious passion for finery, that these people are +become so over and above careful of their persons; they are for ever, +and on every occasion, putting one another on their guard against catching +cold; “you’ll certainly catch cold,” they always tell +you if you happen to be a little exposed to the draught of the air, +or if you be not clad, as they think, sufficiently warm. The general +topic of conversation in summer, is on the important objects of whether +such and such an acquaintance be in town, or such a one in the country. +Far from blaming it, I think it natural and commendable, that nearly +one half of the inhabitants of this great city migrate into the country +in summer. And into the country, I too, though not a Londoner, +hope soon to wander.<br> +<br> +Electricity happens at present to be the puppet-show of the English. +Whoever at all understands electricity is sure of being noticed and +successful. This a certain Mr. Katterfelto experiences, who gives +himself out for a Prussian, speaks bad English, and understands beside +the usual electrical and philosophical experiments, some legerdemain +tricks, with which (at least according to the papers) he sets the whole +world in wonder. For in almost every newspaper that appears, there +are some verses on the great Katterfelto, which some one or other of +his hearers are said to have made extempore. Every sensible person +considers Katterfelto as a puppy, an ignoramus, a braggadocio, and an +impostor; notwithstanding which he has a number of followers. +He has demonstrated to the people, that the influenza is occasioned +by a small kind of insect, which poisons the air; and a nostrum, which +he pretends to have found out to prevent or destroy it, is eagerly bought +of him. A few days ago he put into the papers:<i> </i>“It +is true that Mr. Katterfelto has always wished for cold and rainy weather, +in order to destroy the pernicious insects in the air; but now, on the +contrary, he wishes for nothing more than for fair weather, as his majesty +and the whole royal family have determined, the first fine day, to be +eye-witnesses of the great wonder, which this learned philosopher will +render visible to them.” Yet all this while the royal family +have not so much as even thought of seeing the wonders of Mr. Katterfelto. +This kind of rhodomontade is very finely expressed in English by the +word puff, which in its literal sense, signifies a blowing, or violent +gust of wind, and in the metaphorical sense, a boasting or bragging.<br> +<br> +Of such puffs the English newspapers are daily full, particularly of +quack medicines and empirics, by means of which many a one here (and +among others a German who goes by the name of the German doctor) are +become rich. An advertisement of a lottery in the papers begins +with capitals in this manner, - “Ten Thousand Pounds for a Sixpence! +Yes, however astonishing it may seem, it is nevertheless undoubtedly +true, that for the small stake of sixpence, ten thousand pounds, and +other capital prizes, may be won, etc.” - But enough for this +time of the puffs of the English.<br> +<br> +I yesterday dined with the Rev. Mr. Schrader, son-in-law to Professor +Foster of Halle. He is chaplain to the German chapel at St. James’s; +but besides himself he has a colleague or a reader, who is also in orders, +but has only fifty pounds yearly salary. Mr. Schrader also instructs +the younger princes and princesses of the royal family in their religion. +At his house I saw the two chaplains, Mr. Lindeman and Mr. Kritter, +who went with the Hanoverian troops to Minorca, and who were returned +with the garrison. They were exposed to every danger along with +the troops. The German clergy, as well as every other person in +any public station immediately under Government, are obliged to pay +a considerable tax out of their salaries.<br> +<br> +The English clergy (and I fear those still more particularly who live +in London) are noticeable, and lamentably conspicuous, by a very free, +secular, and irregular way of life. Since my residence in England, +one has fought a duel in Hyde Park, and shot has antagonist. He +was tried for the offence, and it was evident the judge thought him +guilty of murder; but the jury declared him guilty only of manslaughter; +and on this verdict he was burnt in the hand, if that may be called +burning which is done with a cold iron; this being a privilege which +the nobility and clergy enjoy above other murderers.<br> +<br> +Yesterday week, after I had preached for Mr. Wendeborne, we passed an +English church in which, we understood the sermon was not yet quite +finished. On this we went in, and then I heard a young man preaching, +with a tolerable good voice, and a proper delivery; but, like the English +in general, his manner was unimpassioned, and his tone monotonous. +From the church we went to a coffee-house opposite to it, and there +we dined. We had not been long there before the same clergyman +whom we had just heard preaching, also came in. He called for +pen and ink, and hastily wrote down a few pages on a long sheet of paper, +which he put into his pocket; I suppose it was some rough sketch or +memorandum that occurred to him at that moment, and which he thus reserved +for some future sermon. He too ordered some dinner, which he had +no sooner ate, than he returned immediately to the same church. +We followed him, and he again mounted the pulpit, where he drew from +his pocket a written paper, or book of notes, and delivered in all probability +those very words which he had just before composed in our presence at +the coffee-house.<br> +<br> +In these coffee-houses, however, there generally prevails a very decorous +stillness and silence. Everyone speaks softly to those only who +sit next him. The greater part read the newspapers, and no one +ever disturbs another. The room is commonly on the ground floor, +and you enter it immediately from the street; the seats are divided +by wooden wainscot partitions. Many letters and projects are here +written and planned, and many of those that you find in the papers are +dated from some of these coffee-houses. There is, therefore, nothing +incredible, nor very extraordinary, in a person’s composing a +sermon here, excepting that one would imagine it might have been done +better at home, and certainly should not have thus been put off to the +last minute.<br> +<br> +Another long walk that I have taken pretty often, is through Hanover +Square and Cavendish Square, to Bulstrode Street, near Paddington, where +the Danish ambassador lives, and where I have often visited the Danish +<i>Charge d’Affaires</i>, M. Schornborn. He is well known +in Germany, as having attempted to translate Pindar into German. +Besides this, and besides being known to be a man of genius, he is known +to be a great proficient in most of the branches of natural philosophy. +I have spent many very pleasant hours with him.<br> +<br> +Sublime poetry, and in particular odes, are his forte; there are indeed +few departments of learning in which he has not extensive knowledge, +and he is also well read in the Greek and Roman authors. Everything +he studies, he studies merely from the love he bears to the science +itself, and by no means for the love of fame.<br> +<br> +One could hardly help saying it is a pity that so excellent a man should +be so little known, were it not generally the case with men of transcendent +merit. But what makes him still more valuable is his pure and +open soul, and his amiable unaffected simplicity of character, which +has gained him the love and confidence of all who know him. He +has heretofore been secretary to the ambassador at Algiers; and even +here in London, when he is not occupied by the business arising from +his public station, he lives exceedingly retired, and devotes his time +almost entirely to the study of the sciences. The more agreeable +I find such an acquaintance, the harder it will be for me to lose, as +I soon must, his learned, his instructive, and his friendly conversation.<br> +<br> +I have seen the large Freemasons’ Hall here, at the tavern of +the same name. This hall is of an astonishing height and breadth, +and to me it looked almost like a church. The orchestra is very +much raised, and from that you have a fine view of the whole hall, which +makes a majestic appearance. The building is said to have cost +an immense sum. But to that the lodges in Germany also contributed. +Freemasonry seems to be held in but little estimation in England, perhaps +because most of the lodges are now degenerated into mere drinking clubs; +though I hope there still are some who assemble for nobler and more +essential purposes. The Duke of Cumberland is now grand master.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER VII.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>London, 20th June, </i>1782.<br> +<br> +At length my determination of going into the country takes effect; and +I am to set off this very afternoon in a stage; so that I now write +to you my last letter from London, I mean till I return from my pilgrimage, +for as soon as ever I have got beyond the dangerous neighbourhood of +London, I shall certainly no longer suffer myself to be cooped up in +a post-coach, but take my staff and pursue my journey on foot. +In the meantime, however, I will relate to you what I may either have +forgotten to write before, or what I have seen worth notice within these +few days last past; among which the foremost is<br> +<br> +<i>St. Paul’s.<br> +<br> +</i>I must own that on my entrance into this massy building, an uncommon +vacancy, which seemed to reign in it, rather damped than raised an impression +of anything majestic in me. All around me I could see nothing +but immense bare walls and pillars. Above me, at an astonishing +height, was the vaulted stone roof; and beneath me a plain, flat even +floor, paved with marble. No altar was to be seen, or any other +sign that this was a place where mankind assembled to adore the Almighty. +For the church itself, or properly that part of it where they perform +divine service, seems as it were a piece stuck on or added to the main +edifice, and is separated from the large round empty space by an iron +gate, or door. Did the great architects who adopted this style +of building mean by this to say that such a temple is most proper for +the adoration of the Almighty? If this was their aim, I can only +say I admire the great temple of nature, the azure vaulted sky, and +the green carpet with which the earth is spread. This is truly +a large temple; but then there is in it no void, no spot unappropriated, +or unfulfilled, but everywhere proofs in abundance of the presence of +the Almighty. If, however, mankind, in their honest ambition to +worship the great God of nature, in a style not wholly unsuitable to +the great object of their reverence, and in their humble efforts at +magnificence, aim in some degree to rival the magnificence of nature, +particular pains should be taken to hit on something that might atone +for the unavoidable loss of the animation and ampleness of nature; something +in short that should clearly indicate the true and appropriated design +and purpose of such a building. If, on the other hand, I could +be contented to consider St. Paul’s merely as a work of art, built +as if merely to show the amazing extent of human powers, I should certainly +gaze at it with admiration and astonishment, but then I wish rather +to contemplate it with awe and veneration. But, I perceive, I +am wandering out of my way. St. Paul’s is here, as it is, +a noble pile, and not unworthy of this great nation. And even +if I were sure that I could, you would hardly thank me for showing you +how it might have been still more worthy of this intelligent people. +I make a conscience however of telling you always, with fidelity, what +impression everything I see or hear makes on me at the time. For +a small sum of money I was conducted all over the church by a man whose +office it seemed to be, and he repeated to me, I dare say, exactly his +lesson, which no doubt he has perfectly got by rote: of how many feet +long and broad it was; how many years it was in building, and in what +year built. Much of this rigmarole story, which, like a parrot, +he repeated mechanically, I could willingly have dispensed with. +In the part that was separated from the rest by the iron gate above +mentioned, was what I call the church itself; furnished with benches, +pews, pulpit, and an altar; and on each side seats for the choristers, +as there are in our cathedrals. This church seemed to have been +built purposely in such a way, that the bishop, or dean, or dignitary, +who should preach there, might not be obliged to strain his voice too +much. I was now conducted to that part which is called the whispering +gallery, which is a circumference of prodigious extent, just below the +cupola. Here I was directed to place myself in a part of it directly +opposite to my conductor, on the other side of the gallery, so that +we had the whole breadth of the church between us, and here as I stood, +he, knowing his cue no doubt, flung to the door with all his force, +which gave a sound that I could compare to nothing less than a peal +of thunder. I was next desired to apply my ear to the wall, which, +when I did, I heard the words of my conductor: “Can you hear me?” +which he softly whispered quite on the other side, as plain and as loud +as one commonly speaks to a deaf person. This scheme to condense +and invigorate sound at so great a distance is really wonderful. +I once noticed some sound of the same sort in the senatorial cellar +at Bremen; but neither that, nor I believe any other in the world, can +pretend to come in competition with this.<br> +<br> +I now ascended several steps to the great gallery, which runs on the +outside of the great dome, and here I remained nearly two hours, as +I could hardly, in less time, satisfy myself with the prospect of the +various interesting objects that lay all round me, and which can no +where be better seen, than from hence.<br> +<br> +Every view, and every object I studied attentively, by viewing them +again and again on every side, for I was anxious to make a lasting impression +of it on my imagination.<br> +<br> +Below me lay steeples, houses, and palaces in countless numbers; the +squares with their grass plots in their middle that lay agreeably dispersed +and intermixed, with all the huge clusters of buildings, forming meanwhile +a pleasing contrast, and a relief to the jaded eye.<br> +<br> +At one end rose the Tower - itself a city - with a wood of masts behind +it; and at the other Westminster Abbey with its steeples. There +I beheld, clad in smiles, those beautiful green hills that skirt the +environs of Paddington and Islington; here, on the opposite bank of +the Thames, lay Southwark; the city itself it seems to be impossible +for any eye to take in entirely, for with all my pains I found it impossible +to ascertain either where it ended, or where the circumjacent villages +began; far as the eye could reach, it seemed to be all one continued +chain of buildings.<br> +<br> +I well remember how large I thought Berlin when first I saw it from +the steeple of St. Mary, and from the Temple Yard Hills, but how did +it now sink and fall in my imagination, when I compared it with London!<br> +<br> +It is, however, idle and vain to attempt giving you in words, any description, +however faint and imperfect, of such a prospect as I have just been +viewing. He who wishes at one view to see a world in miniature, +must come to the dome of St Paul’s.<br> +<br> +The roof of St. Paul’s itself with its two lesser steeples lay +below me, and as I fancied, looked something like the background of +a small ridge of hills, which you look down upon when you have attained +the summit of some huge rock or mountain. I should gladly have +remained here sometime longer, but a gust of wind, which in this situation +was so powerful that it was hardly possible to withstand it, drove me +down.<br> +<br> +Notwithstanding that St. Paul’s is itself very high, the elevation +of the ground on which it stands contributes greatly to its elevation.<br> +<br> +The church of St. Peter at Berlin, notwithstanding the total difference +between them in the style of building, appears in some respects to have +a great resemblance to St. Paul’s in London. At least its +large high black roof rises above the other surrounding buildings just +as St. Paul’s does.<br> +<br> +What else I saw in this stately cathedral was only a wooden model of +this very edifice, which was made before the church was built, and which +suggests some not unpleasing reflections when one compares it with the +enormous building itself.<br> +<br> +The churchyard is enclosed with an iron rail, and it appears a considerable +distance if you go all round.<br> +<br> +Owing to some cause or other, the site of St. Paul’s strikes you +as being confined, and it is certain that this beautiful church is on +every side closely surrounded by houses.<br> +<br> +A marble statue of Queen Anne in an enclosed piece of ground in the +west front of the church is something of an ornament to that side.<br> +<br> +The size of the bell of St. Paul’s is also worthy of notice, as +it is reckoned one of those that are deemed the largest in Europe. +It takes its place, they say, next to that at Vienna.<br> +<br> +Everything that I saw in St. Paul’s cost me only a little more +than a shilling, which I paid in pence and halfpence, according to a +regulated price, fixed for every different curiosity.<br> +<br> +<i>Westminster Abbey.<br> +<br> +</i>On a very gloomy dismal day, just such a one as it ought to be, +I went to see Westminster Abbey.<br> +<br> +I entered at a small door, which brought me immediately to the poets’ +corner, where the monuments and busts of the principal poets, artists, +generals, and great men, are placed.<br> +<br> +Not far from the door, immediately on my entrance, I perceived the statue +of Shakespeare, as large as life; with a band, &c., in the dress +usual in his time.<br> +<br> +A passage out of one of Shakespeare’s own plays (the <i>Tempest</i>), +in which he describes in the most solemn and affecting manner, the end, +or the dissolution of all things, is here, with great propriety, put +up as his epitaph; as though none but Shakespeare could do justice to +Shakespeare.<br> +<br> +Not far from this immortal bard is Rowe’s monument, which, as +it is intimated in the few lines that are inscribed as his epitaph, +he himself had desired to be placed there.<br> +<br> +At no great distance I saw the bust of that amiable writer, Goldsmith: +to whom, as well as to Butler, whose monument is in a distant part of +the abbey, though they had scarcely necessary bread to eat during their +life time, handsome monuments are now raised. Here, too you see, +almost in a row, the monuments of Milton, Dryden, Gay, and Thomson. +The inscription on Gay’s tombstone is, if not actually immoral, +yet futile and weak; though he is said to have written it himself:<br> +<br> +<br> +“Life is a jest, and all things shew it,<br> +‘I thought so once but now I know it.”<br> +<br> +<br> +Our Handel has also a monument here, where he is represented as large +as life.<br> +<br> +An actress, Pritchard, and Booth, an actor, have also very distinguished +monuments erected here to their memories.<br> +<br> +For Newton, as was proper, there is a very costly one. It is above, +at the entrance of the choir, and exactly opposite to this, at the end +of the church, another is erected, which refers you to the former.<br> +<br> +As I passed along the side walls of Westminster Abbey, I hardly saw +any thing but marble monuments of great admirals, but which were all +too much loaded with finery and ornaments, to make on me at least, the +intended impression.<br> +<br> +I always returned with most pleasure to the poets’ corner, where +the most sensible, most able, and most learned men, of the different +ages, were re-assembled; and particularly where the elegant simplicity +of the monuments made an elevated and affecting impression on the mind, +while a perfect recollection of some favourite passage, of a Shakespeare, +or Milton, recurred to my idea, and seemed for a moment to re-animate +and bring back the spirits of those truly great men.<br> +<br> +Of Addison and Pope I have found no monuments here. The vaults +where the kings are buried, and some other things worth notice in the +abbey, I have not yet seen; but perhaps I may at my return to London +from the country.<br> +<br> +I have made every necessary preparation for this journey: In the first +place, I have an accurate map of England in my pocket; besides an excellent +book of the roads, which Mr. Pointer, the English merchant to whom I +am recommended, has lent me. The title is “A new and accurate +description of all the direct and principal cross roads in Great Britain.” +This book, I hope, will be of great service to me in my ramblings.<br> +<br> +I was for a long time undecided which way I should go, whether to the +Isle of Wight, to Portsmouth, or to Derbyshire, which is famous for +its natural curiosities, and also for its romantic situation. +At length I have determined on Derbyshire.<br> +<br> +During my absence I leave my trunk at Mr. Mulhausen’s (one of +Mr. Pointer’s senior partners), that I may not be at the needless +expense of paying for my lodging without making use of it. This +Mr. Pointer lived long in Germany, and is politely partial to us and +our language, and speaks it well. He is a well-bred and singularly +obliging man; and one who possesses a vast fund of information, and +a good taste. I cannot but feel myself happy in having obtained +a recommendation to so accomplished a man. I got it from Messrs. +Persent and Dorner, to whom I had the honour to be recommended by Mr. +Von Taubenheim, Privy Counsellor at Berlin. These recommendations +have been of infinite use to me.<br> +<br> +I propose to go to-day as far as Richmond; for which place a stage sets +out about two o’clock from some inn, not far from the new church +in the Strand. Four guineas, some linen, my English book of the +roads, and a map and pocket-book, together with Milton’s Paradise +Lost, which I must put in my pocket, compose the whole of my equipage; +and I hope to walk very lightly with it. But it now strikes half-past +one, and of course it is time for me to be at the stage. Farewell! +I will write to you again from Richmond.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER VIII.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>Richmond, </i>21st <i>June, </i>1782.<br> +<br> +Yesterday afternoon I had the luxury for the first time of being driven +in an English stage. These coaches are, at least in the eyes of +a foreigner, quite elegant, lined in the inside; and with two seats +large enough to accommodate six persons; but it must be owned, when +the carriage is full, the company are rather crowded.<br> +<br> +At the White Hart from whence the coach sets out, there was, at first +only an elderly lady who got in; but as we drove along, it was soon +filled, and mostly by ladies, there being only one more gentleman and +myself. The conversation of the ladies among themselves, who appeared +to be a little acquainted with each other, seemed to me to be but very +insipid and tiresome. All I could do was, I drew out my book of +the roads, and marked the way we were going.<br> +<br> +Before you well know that you are out of London you are already in Kensington +and Hammersmith; because there are all the way houses on both sides, +after you are out of the city; just as you may remember the case is +with us when you drive from Berlin to Schoneberg; although in point +of prospect, houses and streets, the difference, no doubt, is prodigious.<br> +<br> +It was a fine day, and there were various delightful prospects on both +sides, on which the eye would willingly have dwelt longer, had not our +coach rolled on past them, so provokingly quick. It appeared somewhat +singular to me, when at a few miles from London, I saw at a distance +a beautiful white house; and perceived on the high road, on which we +were driving, a direction post, on which were written these words: “that +great white house at a distance is a boarding-school!”<br> +<br> +The man who was with us in the coach pointed out to us the country seats +of the lords and great people by which we passed; and entertained us +with all kind of stories of robberies which had been committed on travellers, +hereabouts; so that the ladies at last began to be rather afraid; on +which he began to stand up for the superior honour of the English robbers, +when compared with the French: the former he said robbed only, the latter +both robbed and murdered.<br> +<br> +Notwithstanding this there are in England another species of villains, +who also murder, and that oftentimes for the merest trifle, of which +they rob the person murdered. These are called footpads, and are +the lowest class of English rogues; amongst whom in general there reigns +something like some regard to character.<br> +<br> +The highest order of thieves are the pickpockets or cutpurses, whom +you find everywhere; and sometimes even in the best companies. +They are generally well and handsomely dressed, so that you take them +to be persons of rank; as indeed may sometimes be the case: persons +who by extravagance and excesses have reduced themselves to want, and +find themselves obliged at last to have recourse to pilfering and thieving.<br> +<br> +Next to them come the highwaymen, who rob on horseback; and often, they +say, even with unloaded pistols, they terrify travellers, in order to +put themselves in possession of their purses. Among these persons, +however, there are instances of true greatness of soul, there are numberless +instances of their returning a part of their booty, where the party +robbed has appeared to be particularly distressed; and they are seldom +guilty of murder.<br> +<br> +Then comes the third and lowest, and worst of all thieves and rogues, +the footpads before mentioned; who are on foot, and often murder in +the most inhuman manner, for the sake of only a few shillings, any unfortunate +people who happen to fall in their way. Of this several mournful +instances may be read almost daily in the English papers. Probably +they murder, because they cannot like highwaymen, aided by their horses, +make a rapid flight: and therefore such pests are frequently pretty +easily pursued and taken if the person robbed gives information of his +robbery in time.<br> +<br> +But to return to our stage, I must observe, that they have here a curious +way of riding, not in, but upon a stage-coach. Persons to whom +it is not convenient to pay a full price, instead of the inside, sit +on the top of the coach, without any seats or even a rail. By +what means passengers thus fasten themselves securely on the roof of +these vehicles, I know not; but you constantly see numbers seated there, +apparently at their ease, and in perfect safety.<br> +<br> +This they call riding on the outside; for which they pay only half as +much as those pay who are within: we had at present six of these passengers +over our heads, who, when we alighted, frequently made such a noise +and bustle, as sometimes almost frightened us. He who can properly +balance himself, rides not incommodiously on the outside; and in summer +time, in fine weather, on account of the prospects, it certainly is +more pleasant than it is within: excepting that the company is generally +low, and the dust is likewise more troublesome than in the inside, where, +at any rate, you may draw up the windows according to your pleasure.<br> +<br> +In Kensington, where we stopped, a Jew applied for a place along with +us; but as there was no seat vacant in the inside, he would not ride +on the outside, which seemed not quite to please my travelling companions. +They could not help thinking it somewhat preposterous that a Jew should +be ashamed to ride on the outside, or on any side, and in any way; since +as they added, he was nothing more than a Jew. This antipathy +and prejudice against the Jews, I have noticed to be far more common +here, than it is even with us, who certainly are not partial to them.<br> +<br> +Of the beautiful country seats and villas which we now passed, I could +only through the windows of our coach gain a partial and indistinct +prospect, which led me to wish, as I soon most earnestly did, to be +released from this movable prison. Towards evening we arrived +at Richmond. In London, before I set out, I had paid one shilling; +another was now demanded, so that upon the whole, from London to Richmond, +the passage in the stage costs just two shillings.<br> +<br> +As soon as I had alighted at an inn and had drunk my tea, I went out +immediately to see the town and the circumjacent country.<br> +<br> +Even this town, though hardly out of sight of London, is more countrified, +pleasanter, and more cheerful than London, and the houses do not seem +to be so much blackened by smoke. The people also appeared to +me here more sociable and more hospitable. I saw several sitting +on benches before their doors, to enjoy the cool breeze of the evening. +On a large green area in the middle of the town, a number of boys, and +even young men, were enjoying themselves, and playing at trap-ball. +In the streets there reigned here, compared to London, a pleasing rural +tranquillity, and I breathed a purer and fresher air.<br> +<br> +I went now out of the town over a bridge, which lies across the Thames, +and where you pay a penny as often as you pass over it. The bridge +is lofty and built in the form of an arch, and from it you enter immediately +into a most charming valley, that winds all along the banks of the Thames.<br> +<br> +It was evening. The sun was just shedding her last parting rays +on the valley; but such an evening, and such a valley! Oh, it +is impossible I should ever forget them. The terrace at Richmond +does assuredly afford one of the finest prospects in the world. +Whatever is charming in nature, or pleasing in art, is to be seen here. +Nothing I had ever seen, or ever can see elsewhere, is to be compared +to it. My feelings, during the few short enraptured minutes that +I stood there, it is impossible for any pen to describe.<br> +<br> +One of my first sensations was chagrin and sorrow for the days and hours +I had wasted in London, and I had vented a thousand bitter reproaches +on my irresolution, that I had not long ago quitted that huge dungeon +to come here and pass my time in paradise.<br> +<br> +Yes, my friend, whatever be your ideas of paradise, and how luxuriantly +soever it may be depicted to your imagination, I venture to foretell +that here you will be sure to find all those ideas realised. In +every point of view, Richmond is assuredly one of the first situations +in the world. Here it was that Thomson and Pope gleaned from nature +all those beautiful passages with which their inimitable writings abound.<br> +<br> +Instead of the incessant distressing noise in London, I saw here at +a distance, sundry little family parties walking arm in arm along the +banks of the Thames. Everything breathed a soft and pleasing calm, +which warmed my heart and filed it with some of the most pleasing sensations +of which our nature is susceptible.<br> +<br> +Beneath I trod on that fresh, even, and soft verdure which is to be +seen only in England. On one side of me lay a wood, than which +nature cannot produce a finer, and on the other the Thames, with its +shelvy bank and charming lawns rising like an amphitheatre, along which, +here and there, one espies a picturesque white house, aspiring in majestic +simplicity to pierce the dark foliage of the surrounding trees; thus +studding, like stars in the galaxy, the rich expanse of this charming +vale.<br> +<br> +Sweet Richmond! never, no, never, shall I forget that lovely evening, +when from thy fairy hills thou didst so hospitably smile on me, a poor +lonely, insignificant stranger! As I traversed to and fro thy +meads, thy little swelling hills and flowery dells, and above all that +queen of all rivers, thy own majestic Thames, I forgot all sublunary +cares, and thought only of heaven and heavenly things. Happy, +thrice happy am I, I again and again exclaimed, that I am no longer +in yon gloomy city, but here in Elysium, in Richmond.<br> +<br> +O ye copsy hills, ye green meadows, and ye rich streams in this blessed +country, how have ye enchanted me? Still, however, let me recollect +and resolve, as I firmly do, that even ye shall not prevent my return +to those barren and dusty lands where my, perhaps a less indulgent, +destiny has placed me, and where, in the due discharge of all the arduous +and important duties of that humble function to which providence has +called me, I must and I will faithfully exert my best talents, and in +that exertion find pleasure, and I trust, happiness. In every +future moment of my life, however, the recollection of this scene, and +the feelings it inspired, shall cheer my labours and invigorate my efforts.<br> +<br> +These were some of my reflections, my dearest friend, during my solitary +walk. Of the evening I passed at Richmond, I speak feebly when +I content myself with saying only, it was one of the pleasantest I ever +spent in my life.<br> +<br> +I now resolved to go to bed early, with a firm purpose of also rising +early the next day to revisit this charming walk; for I thought to myself, +I have now seen this temple of the modern world imperfectly; I have +seen it only by moonlight. How much more charming must it be when +glistening with the morning dew! These fond hopes, alas, were +all disappointed. In all great schemes of enjoyment, it is, I +believe, no bad way always to figure to yourself some possible evil +that may arise, and to anticipate a disappointment. If I had done +so, I should not perhaps have felt the mortification I then experienced +quite so pungent. By some means or other I stayed too long out, +and so when I returned to Richmond, I had forgot the name and the sign +of the inn where I had before stopped; it cost me no little trouble +to find it again.<br> +<br> +When at last I got back, I told the people what a sweet walk I had had, +and they then spoke much of a prospect from a neighbouring hill, known +by the name of Richmond Hill, which was the very same hill from the +top of which I had just been gazing at the houses in the vale, the preceding +evening. From this same kill, therefore, I resolved the next morning +to see the sun rise.<br> +<br> +The landlady of this house was a notable one, and talked so much and +so loud to her servants, that I could not get to sleep till it was pretty +late. However, I was up next morning at three o’clock, and +was now particularly sensible of the great inconveniences they sustain +in England by their bad custom of rising so late, for as I was the only +one in this family who was up, I could not get out of the house. +This obliged me to spend three most irksome and heavy hours till six +o’clock; however, a servant at length opened the door, and I rushed +out to climb Richmond Hill. To my infinite disappointment, within +the space of an hour, the sky had become overcast, and it was now so +cloudy that I could not even see, nor of course enjoy one half of the +delightful prospect that lay before me.<br> +<br> +On the top of this hill is an alley of chestnut trees, under which here +and there seats are placed. Behind the alley is a row of well-built +gentlemen’s country seats. One does not wonder to see it +thus occupied; besides the pure air, the prospect exceeds everything +else of the kind in the world. I never saw a palace which, if +I were the owner of it, I would not give for any of the houses I now +saw on Richmond Terrace.<br> +<br> +The descent of the hill to the Thames is covered with verdure, the Thames +at the foot of it forms near a semicircle, in which it seems to embrace +woody plains, with meadows and country seats in its bosom. On +one side you see the town and its magnificent bridge, and on the other +a dark wood.<br> +<br> +At a distance you could perceive, peeping out among the meadows and +woods, sundry small villages, so that notwithstanding the dulness of +the weather, this prospect even now was one of the finest I had ever +seen. But what is the reason that yesterday evening my feelings +were far more acute and lively, the impressions made on me much stronger, +when from the vale I viewed the hill and fancied that there was in it +every thing that was delightful, than they are this morning, when from +the hill I overlooked the vale and knew pretty exactly what it contained?<br> +<br> +I have now finished my breakfast, and once more seize my staff, the +only companion I have, and now again set out on this romantic journey +on foot. From Windsor you shall hear more of me.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER IX.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>Windsor</i>, 23rd <i>June.<br> +<br> +</i>I have already, my dearest friend, now that I write to you from +hence, experienced so many inconveniences as a traveller on foot, that +I am at some loss to determine whether or no I shall go on with my journey +in the same manner.<br> +<br> +A traveller on foot in this country seems to be considered as a sort +of wild man or out-of-the way being, who is stared at, pitied, suspected, +and shunned by everybody that meets him. At least this has hitherto +been my case on the road from Richmond to Windsor.<br> +<br> +My host at Richmond, yesterday morning, could not sufficiently express +his surprise that I intended to venture to walk as far as Oxford, and +still farther. He however was so kind as to send his son, a clever +little boy, to show me the road leading to Windsor.<br> +<br> +At first I walked along a very pleasant footway by the side of the Thames, +where close to my right lay the king’s garden. On the opposite +bank of the Thames was Isleworth, a spot that seemed to be distinguished +by some elegant gentlemen’s country-seats and gardens. Here +I was obliged to ferry the river in order to get into the Oxford Road, +which also leads to Windsor.<br> +<br> +When I was on the other side of the water, I came to a house and asked +a man who was standing at the door if I was on the right road to Oxford. +“Yes,” said he, “but you want a carriage to carry +you thither.” When I answered him that I intended walking +it, he looked at me significantly, shook his head, and went into the +house again.<br> +<br> +I was now on the road to Oxford. It is a charming fine broad road, +and I met on it carriages without number, which, however, on account +of the heat, occasioned a dust that was extremely troublesome and disagreeable. +The fine green hedges, which border the roads in England, contribute +greatly to render them pleasant. This was the case in the road +I now travelled, for when I was tired I sat down in the shade under +one of these hedges and read Milton. But this relief was soon +rendered disagreeable to me, for those who rode or drove past me, stared +at me with astonishment, and made many significant gestures as if they +thought my head deranged; so singular must it needs have appeared to +them to see a man sitting along the side of a public road and reading. +I therefore found myself obliged, when I wished to rest myself and read, +to look out for a retired spot in some by-lane or crossroad.<br> +<br> +When I again walked, many of the coachmen who drove by called out to +me, ever and anon, and asked if I would not ride on the outside; and +when, every now and then, a farmer on horseback met me, he said, and +seemingly with an air of pity for me, “’Tis warm walking, +sir;” and when I passed through a village, every old woman testified +her pity by an exclamation of - “Good God!”<br> +<br> +As far as Hounslow the way was very pleasant; afterwards I thought it +not quite so good. It lay across a common, which was of a considerable +extent, and bare and naked, excepting that here and there I saw sheep +feeding.<br> +<br> +I now began to be very tired, when, to my astonishment, I saw a tree +in the middle of the common that stood quite solitary, and spread a +shade like an arbour round it. At the bottom, round the trunk, +a bench was placed, on which one may sit down. Beneath the shade +of this tree I reposed myself a little, read some of Milton, and made +a note in my memorandum-book that I would remember this tree, which +had so charitably and hospitably received under its shade a weary traveller. +This, you see, I have now done.<br> +<br> +The short English miles are delightful for walking. You are always +pleased to find, every now and then, in how short a time you have walked +a mile, though, no doubt, a mile is everywhere a mile, I walk but a +moderate pace, and can accomplish four English miles in an hour. +It used to take me pretty nearly the same time for one German mile. +Now it is a pleasing exchange to find that in two hours I can walk eight +miles. And now I fancy I was about seventeen miles from London, +when I came to an inn, where, for a little wine and water, I was obliged +to pay sixpence. An Englishman who happened to be sitting by the +side of the innkeeper found out that I was a German, and, of course, +from the country of his queen, in praise of whom he was quite lavish, +observing more than once that England never had had such a queen, and +would not easily get such another.<br> +<br> +It now began to grow hot. On the left hand, almost close to the +high road, I met with a singularly clear rivulet. In this I bathed, +and was much refreshed, and afterwards, with fresh alacrity, continued +my journey.<br> +<br> +I had now got over the common, and was once more in a country rich and +well cultivated beyond all conception. This continued to be the +case as far as Slough, which is twenty miles and a half from London, +on the way to Oxford, and from which to the left there is a road leading +to Windsor, whose high white castle I have already seen at a distance.<br> +<br> +I made no stay here, but went directly to the right, along a very pleasant +high road, between meadows and green hedges, towards Windsor, where +I arrived about noon.<br> +<br> +It strikes a foreigner as something particular and unusual when, on +passing through these fine English towns, he observed one of those circumstances +by which the towns in Germany are distinguished from the villages - +no walls, no gates, no sentries, nor garrisons. No stern examiner +comes here to search and inspect us or our baggage; no imperious guard +here demands a sight of our passports; perfectly free and unmolested, +we here walk through villages and towns as unconcerned as we should +through a house of our own.<br> +<br> +Just before I got to Windsor I passed Eton College, one of the first +public schools in England, and perhaps in the world. I have before +observed that there are in England fewer of these great schools than +one might expect. It lay on my left; and on the right, directly +opposite to it, was an inn, into which I went.<br> +<br> +I suppose it was during the hour of recreation, or in playtime, when +I got to Eton, for I saw the boys in the yard before the college, which +was enclosed by a low wall, in great numbers, walking and running up +and down.<br> +<br> +Their dress struck me particularly. From the biggest to the least, +they all wore black cloaks, or gowns, over coloured clothes, through +which there was an aperture for their arms. They also wore besides +a square hat or cap, that seemed to be covered with velvet, such as +our clergymen in many places wear.<br> +<br> +They were differently employed - some talking together, some playing, +and some had their books in their hands, and were reading; but I was +soon obliged to get out of their sight, they stared at me so as I came +along, all over dust, with my stick in my hand.<br> +<br> +As I entered the inn, and desired to have something to eat, the countenance +of the waiter soon gave me to understand that I should there find no +very friendly reception. Whatever I got they seemed to give me +with such an air as showed too plainly how little they thought of me, +and as if they considered me but as a beggar. I must do them the +justice to own, however, that they suffered me to pay like a gentleman. +No doubt this was the first time this pert, bepowdered puppy had ever +been called on to wait on a poor devil who entered their place on foot. +I was tired, and asked for a bedroom where I might sleep. They +showed me into one that much resembled a prison for malefactors. +I requested that I might have a better room at night; on which, without +any apology, they told me that they had no intention of lodging me, +as they had no room for such guests, but that I might go back to Slough, +where very probably I might get a night’s lodging.<br> +<br> +With money in my pocket, and a consciousness, moreover, that I was doing +nothing that was either imprudent, unworthy, or really mean, I own it +mortified and vexed me to find myself obliged to put up with this impudent +ill-usage from people who ought to reflect that they are but the servants +of the public, and little likely to recommend themselves to the high +by being insolent to the low. They made me, however, pay them +two shillings for my dinner and coffee, which I had just thrown down, +and was preparing to shake off the dust from my shoes, and quit this +inhospitable St. Christopher, when the green hills of Windsor smiled +so friendly upon me, that they seemed to invite me first to visit them.<br> +<br> +And now trudging through the streets of Windsor, I at length mounted +a sort of hill; a steep path led me on to its summit, close to the walls +of the castle, where I had an uncommonly extensive and fine prospect, +which so much raised my heart, that in a moment I forgot not only the +insults of waiters and tavern-keepers, but the hardship of my lot in +being obliged to travel in a manner that exposed me to the scorn of +a people whom I wished to respect. Below me lay the most beautiful +landscapes in the world - all the rich scenery that nature, in her best +attire, can exhibit. Here were the spots that furnished those +delightful themes of which the muse of Denham and Pope made choice. +I seemed to view a whole world at once, rich and beautiful beyond conception. +At that moment what more could I have wished for?<br> +<br> +And the venerable castle, that royal edifice which, in every part of +it, has strong traces of antiquity, smiles through its green trees, +like the serene countenance of some hoary sage, who, by the vigour of +a happy constitution, still retains many of the charms of youth.<br> +<br> +Nothing inspired me with more veneration and awe than the fine old building +St. George’s Church, which, as you come down from the castle, +is on your right. At the sight of it past centuries seemed to +revive in my imagination.<br> +<br> +But I will see no more of those sights which are shown you by one of +those venal praters, who ten times a day, parrot-wise, repeat over the +same dull lesson they have got by heart. The surly fellow, who +for a shilling conducted me round the church, had nearly, with his chattering, +destroyed the finest impressions. Henry VIII., Charles I., and +Edward IV. are buried here. After all, this church, both within +and without, has a most melancholy and dismal appearance.<br> +<br> +They were building at what is called the queen’s palace, and prodigious +quantities of materials are provided for that purpose.<br> +<br> +I now went down a gentle declivity into the delightful park at Windsor, +at the foot of which it looks so sombrous and gloomy that I could hardly +help fancying it was some vast old Gothic temple. This forest +certainly, in point of beauty, surpasses everything of the kind you +can figure to yourself. To its own charms, when I saw it, there +were added a most pleasing and philosophical solitude, the coolness +of an evening breeze, all aided by the soft sounds of music, which, +at this distance from the castle, from whence it issued, was inexpressibly +sweet. It threw me into a sort of enthusiastic and pleasing reverie, +which made me ample amends for the fatigues, discourtesies, and continued +cross accidents I had encountered in the course of the day.<br> +<br> +I now left the forest; the clock struck six, and the workmen were going +home from their work.<br> +<br> +I have forgot to mention the large round tower of the castle, which +is also a very ancient building. The roads that lead to it are +all along their sides planted with shrubs; these, being modern and lively, +make a pleasing contrast to the fine old mossy walls. On the top +of this tower the flag of Great Britain is usually displayed, which, +however, as it was now late in the evening, was taken in.<br> +<br> +As I came down from the castle I saw the king driving up to it in a +very plain, two-wheeled, open carriage. The people here were politer +than I used to think they were in London, for I did not see a single +person, high or low, who did not pull off their hats as their sovereign +passed them.<br> +<br> +I was now again in Windsor, and found myself, not far from the castle, +opposite to a very capital inn, where I saw many officers and several +persons of consequence going in and out. And here at this inn, +contrary to all expectation, I was received by the landlord with great +civility, and even kindness - very contrary to the haughty and insolent +airs which the upstart at the other, and his jackanapes of a waiter, +there thought fit to give themselves.<br> +<br> +However, it seemed to be my fate to be still a scandal and an eyesore +to all the waiters. The maid, by the order of her master, showed +me a room where I might adjust my dress a little; but I could hear her +mutter and grumble as she went along with me. Having put myself +a little to rights, I went down into the coffee-room, which is immediately +at the entrance of the house, and told the landlord that I thought I +wished to have yet one more walk. On this he obligingly directed +me to stroll down a pleasant field behind his house, at the foot of +which, he said, I should find the Thames, and a good bathing place.<br> +<br> +I followed his advice; and this evening was, if possible, finer than +the preceding. Here again, as I had been told I should, I found +the Thames with all its gentle windings. Windsor shone nearly +as bright over the green vale as those charming houses on Richmond Hill, +and the verdure was not less soft and delicate. The field I was +in seemed to slope a little towards the Thames. I seated myself +near a bush, and there waited the going down of the sun. At a +distance I saw a number of people bathing in the Thames. When, +after sunset, they were a little dispersed, I drew near the spot I had +been directed to; and here, for the first time, I sported in the cool +tide of the Thames. The bank was steep, but my landlord had dug +some steps that went down into the water, which is extremely convenient +for those who cannot swim. Whilst I was there, a couple of smart +lively apprentice boys came also from the town, who, with the greatest +expedition, threw off their clothes and leathern aprons, and plunged +themselves, head foremost, into the water, where they opposed the tide +with their sinewy arms till they were tired. They advised me, +with much natural civility, to untie my hair, and that then, like them, +I might plunge into the stream head foremost.<br> +<br> +Refreshed and strengthened by this cool bath, I took a long walk by +moonlight on the banks of the Thames. To my left were the towers +of Windsor, before me a little village with a steeple, the top of which +peeped out among the green trees, at a distance two inviting hills which +I was to climb in the morning, and around me the green cornfields. +Oh! how indescribably beautiful was this evening and this walk! +At a distance among the houses I could easily descry the inn where I +lodged, and where I seemed to myself at length to have found a place +of refuge and a home; and I thought, if I could but stay there, I should +not be very sorry if I were never to find another.<br> +<br> +How soon did all these pleasing dreams vanish! On my return the +waiters (who, from my appearance, too probably expected but a trifling +reward for their attentions to me) received me gruffly, and as if they +were sorry to see me again. This was not all; I had the additional +mortification to be again roughly accosted by the cross maid who had +before shown me to the bed-chamber, and who, dropping a kind of half +courtesy, with a suppressed laugh, sneeringly told me I might look out +for another lodging, as I could not sleep there, since the room she +had by mistake shown me was already engaged. It can hardly be +necessary to tell you that I loudly protested against this sudden change. +At length the landlord came, and I appealed to him; and he with great +courtesy immediately desired another room to be shown me, in which, +however, there were two beds, so that I was obliged to admit a companion. +Thus was I very near being a second time turned out of an inn.<br> +<br> +Directly under my room was the tap-room, from which I could plainly +hear too much of the conversation of some low people, who were drinking +and singing songs, in which, as far as I could understand them, there +were many passages at least as vulgar and nonsensical as ours.<br> +<br> +This company, I guessed, consisted chiefly of soldiers and low fellows. +I was hardly well lulled to sleep by this hurly-burly, when my chum +(probably one of the drinking party below) came stumbling into the room +and against my bed. At length, though not without some difficulty, +he found his own bed, into which he threw himself just as he was, without +staying to pull off either clothes or boots.<br> +<br> +This morning I rose very early, as I had proposed, in order to climb +the two hills which yesterday presented me with so inviting a prospect, +and in particular that one of them on the summit of which a high white +house appeared among the dark-green trees; the other was close by.<br> +<br> +I found no regular path leading to these hills, and therefore went straight +forward, without minding roads, only keeping in view the object of my +aim. This certainly created me some trouble. I had sometimes +a hedge, and sometimes a hog to walk round; but at length I had attained +the foot of the so earnestly wished-for hill with the high white house +on its summit, when, just as I was going to ascend it, and was already +pleasing myself in the idea with the prospect from the white house, +behold I read these words on a board: “Take care! there are steel +traps and spring guns here.”<br> +<br> +All my labour was lost, and I now went round to the other hill; but +here were also steel traps and spring gnus, though probably never intended +to annoy such a wanderer as myself, who wished only to enjoy the fine +morning air from this eminence.<br> +<br> +Thus disappointed in my hopes, I returned to Windsor, much in the same +temper and manner as I had yesterday morning from Richmond Hill; where +my wishes had also been frustrated.<br> +<br> +When I got to my inn, I received from the ill-tempered maid, who seemed +to have been stationed there on purpose to plague and vex me, the polite +welcome, that on no account should I sleep another night there. +Luckily, that was not my intention. I now write to you in the +coffee room, where two Germans are talking together, who certainly little +suspect how well I understand them; if I were to make myself known to +them, as a German, most probably, even these fellows would not speak +to me, because I travel on foot. I fancy they are Hanoverians! +The weather is so fine that, notwithstanding the inconveniences I have +hitherto experienced on this account, I think I shall continue my journey +in the same manner.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER X.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>Oxford, June </i>25.<br> +<br> +To what various, singular, and unaccountable fatalities and adventures +are not foot-travellers exposed, in this land of carriages and horses! +But, I will begin my relation in form and order.<br> +<br> +In Windsor, I was obliged to pay for an old fowl I had for supper, for +a bedroom which I procured with some difficulty, and not without murmurs, +and in which, to complete my misadventures, I was disturbed by a drunken +fellow; and for a couple of dishes of tea, nine shillings, of which +the fowl alone was charged six shillings.<br> +<br> +As I was going away the waiter, who had served me with so very ill a +grace, placed himself on the stairs and said, “Pray remember the +waiter.” I gave him three halfpence, on which he saluted +me with the heartiest “G-d d-n you, sir!” I had ever heard. +At the door stood the cross maid, who also accosted me with, “Pray +remember the chambermaid.” “Yes, yes,” said +I, “I shall long remember your most ill-mannered behaviour and +shameful incivility;” and so I gave her nothing. I hope +she was stung and nettled at my reproof; however, she strove to stifle +her anger by a contemptuous, loud, hoarse laugh. Thus, as I left +Windsor, I was literally followed by abuses and curses.<br> +<br> +I am very sorry to say that I rejoiced when I once more perceived the +towers of Windsor behind me. It is not proper for wanderers to +be prowling near the palaces of kings, and so I sat me down, philosophically, +in the shade of a green hedge, and again read Milton, no friend of kings, +though the first of poets. Whatever I may think of their inns, +it is impossible not to admire and be charmed with this country.<br> +<br> +I took my way through Slough, by Salthill, to Maidenhead. At Salthill, +which can hardly be called even a village, I saw a barber’s shop, +and so I resolved to get myself both shaved and dressed. For putting +my hair a little in order, and shaving me, I was forced to pay him a +shilling. Opposite to this shop there stands an elegant house +and a neat garden.<br> +<br> +Between Salthill and Maidenhead, I met with the first very remarkable +and alarming adventure that has occurred during my pilgrimage.<br> +<br> +Hitherto I had scarcely met a single foot passenger, whilst coaches +without number every moment rolled past me, for there are few roads, +even in England, more crowded than this western road, which leads to +Bath and Bristol as well as to Oxford. I now also began to meet +numbers of people on horseback, which is by no means an usual method +of travelling.<br> +<br> +The road now led me along a low sunken piece of ground between high +trees, so that I could not see far before me, when a fellow in a brown +frock and round hat, with a stick in his hand a great deal stronger +than mine, came up to me. His countenance immediately struck me +as having in it something suspicious. He however passed me; but, +before I was aware, he turned back and asked me for a halfpenny to buy, +as he said, some bread, as he had eaten nothing that day. I felt +in my pocket, and found that I had no halfpence: no, nor even a sixpence; +in short, nothing but shillings. I told him the circumstance, +which I hoped would excuse me; on which he said, with an air and manner +the drift of which I could not understand, “God bless my soul!” +This drew my attention still closer to the huge brawny fist, which grasped +his stick, and that closer attention determined me immediately to put +my hand in my pocket and give him a shilling. Meanwhile a coach +came up. The fellow thanked me and went on. Had the coach +come a moment sooner, I should not easily have given him the shilling, +which, God knows, I could not well spare. Whether this was a footpad +or not, I will not pretend to say, but he had every appearance of it.<br> +<br> +I now came to Maidenhead bridge, which is five-and-twenty English miles +from London.<br> +<br> +The English milestones give me much pleasure, and they certainly are +a great convenience to travellers. They have often seemed to ease +me of half the distance of a journey merely by telling me how far I +had already gone, and by assuring me that I was on the right road. +For, besides the distance from London, every milestone informs you that +to the next place is so many miles, and where there are cross-roads +there are direction-posts, so that it is hardly possible to lose one’s-self +in walking. I must confess that all this journey has seemed but +as it were one continued walk for pleasure.<br> +<br> +From Maidenhead bridge there is a delightful prospect towards a hill, +which extends itself along the right bank of the Thames, and on the +top of it there are two beautiful country seats, all surrounded with +meadows and parks. The first is called Taplow, and belongs to +the Earl of Inchiquin; and a little farther Cliefden, which also belongs +to him.<br> +<br> +These villas seem all to be surrounded with green meadows, lying along +thick woods, and, altogether, are most charming.<br> +<br> +From this bridge it is not far to Maidenhead, near which, on the left, +is another prospect of a beautiful seat, belonging to Pennyston Powney, +Esq.<br> +<br> +All this knowledge I have gained chiefly from my English guide; which +I have constantly in my hand; and in which everything most worthy of +notice in every mile is marked. These notices I get confirmed +or refuted by the people at whose houses I stop; who wonder how I, who +am a foreigner, have come to be so well acquainted with their country.<br> +<br> +Maidenhead is a place of little note; for some mulled ale, which I desired +them to make me, I was obliged to pay ninepence. I fancy they +did not take me to be either a great, or a very rich man, for I heard +them say, as I passed on, “A stout fellow!” This, +though perhaps not untrue, did not seem to sound in my ears as very +respectful.<br> +<br> +At the end of the village was a shoemaker’s shop, just as at the +end of Salthill there was a barber’s shop.<br> +<br> +From hence I went to Henley, which is eleven miles from Maidenhead, +and thirty-six from London.<br> +<br> +Having walked pretty fast for six English miles together, and being +now only five miles from Henley, I came to a rising ground where there +just happened to be a milestone, near which I sat down, to enjoy one +of the most delightful prospects, the contemplation of which I recommend +to everyone who may ever happen to come to this spot. Close before +me rose a soft hill, full of green cornfields, fenced with quick-hedges, +and the top of it was encircled with a wood.<br> +<br> +At some little distance, in a large semicircle, one green hill rose +after another, all around me, gently raising themselves aloft from the +banks of the Thames, and on which woods, meadows, arable lands, and +villages were interspersed in the greatest and most beautiful variety; +whilst at their foot the Thames meandered, in most picturesque windings, +among villages, gentlemen’s seats, and green vales.<br> +<br> +The banks of the Thames are everywhere beautiful, everywhere charming; +how delighted was I with the sight of it when, having lost it for a +short time, I suddenly and unexpectedly saw it again with all its beautiful +banks. In the vale below, flocks were feeding; and from the hills +I heard the sweet chimes of distant bells.<br> +<br> +The circumstance that renders these English prospects so enchantingly +beautiful, is a concurrence and union of the <i>tout ensemble</i>. +Everything coincides and conspires to render them fine, moving pictures. +It is impossible to name, or find a spot, on which the eye would not +delight to dwell. Any of the least beautiful of any of these views +that I have seen in England would, anywhere in Germany, be deemed a +paradise.<br> +<br> +Reinforced, as it were, by this gratifying prospect, to support fresh +fatigues, I now walked a quick pace, both up and down the hills, the +five remaining miles to Henley, where I arrived about four in the afternoon.<br> +<br> +To the left, just before I got to Henley, on this side of the Thames, +I saw on a hill a fine park and a magnificent country seat, at present +occupied by General Conway.<br> +<br> +Just before my entrance into Henley, I walked a little directly on the +banks of the Thames; and sat myself down in the high grass, whilst opposite +to me, on the other side, lay the park on the hill. As I was a +little tired, I fell asleep, and when I awoke the last rays of the setting +sun just shone upon me.<br> +<br> +Invigorated by this sweet, though short, slumber, I walked on and entered +the town. Its appearance, however, indicated that it was too fine +a place for me, and so I determined to stop at an inn on the road-side, +such a one as the Vicar of Wakefield well calls, “the resort of +indigence and frugality.”<br> +<br> +The worst of it was, no one, even in these places of refuge, would take +me in. Yet, on this road, I met two farmers, the first of whom +I asked whether he thought I could get a night’s lodging at a +house which I saw at a distance, by the road side. “Yes, +sir, I daresay you may,” he replied. But he was mistaken: +when I came there, I was accosted with that same harsh salutation, which +though, alas, no longer quite new to me, was still unpleasing to my +ears; “We have got no beds; you can’t stay here to-night.” + It was the same at the other inn on the road; I was therefore obliged +to determine to walk on as far as Nettlebed, which was five miles farther, +where I arrived rather late in the evening, when it was indeed quite +dark.<br> +<br> +Everything seemed to be all alive in this little village; there was +a party of militia soldiers who were dancing, singing, and making merry. +Immediately on my entrance into the village, the first house that I +saw, lying on my left, was an inn, from which, as usual in England, +a large beam extended across the street to the opposite house, from +which hung dangling an astonishing large sign, with the name of the +proprietor.<br> +<br> +“May I stay here to-night?” I asked with eagerness. +“Why, yes, you may;” an answer which, however cold and surly, +made me exceedingly happy.<br> +<br> +They showed me into the kitchen, and set me down to sup at the same +table with some soldiers and the servants. I now, for the first +time, found myself in one of those kitchens which I had so often read +of in Fielding’s fine novels; and which certainly give one, on +the whole, a very accurate idea of English manners.<br> +<br> +The chimney in this kitchen, where they were roasting and boiling, seemed +to be taken off from the rest of the room and enclosed by a wooden partition; +the rest of the apartment was made use of as a sitting and eating-room. +All round on the sides were shelves with pewter dishes and plates, and +the ceiling was well stored with provisions of various kinds, such as +sugar-loaves, black-puddings, hams, sausages, flitches of bacon, &c.<br> +<br> +While I was eating, a post-chaise drove up, and in a moment both the +folding-doors were thrown open and the whole house set in motion, in +order to receive, with all due respect, these guests, who, no doubt, +were supposed to be persons of consequence. The gentlemen alighted, +however, only for a moment, and called for nothing but a couple of pots +of beer, and then drove away again. Notwithstanding, the people +of the house behaved to them with all possible attention, for they came +in a post-chaise.<br> +<br> +Though this was only an ordinary village, and they certainly did not +take me for a person of consequence, they yet gave me a carpeted bedroom, +and a very good bed.<br> +<br> +The next morning I put on clean linen, which I had along with me, and +dressed myself as well as I could. And now, when I thus made my +appearance, they did not, as they had the evening before, show me into +the kitchen, but into the parlour, a room that seemed to be allotted +for strangers, on the ground-floor. I was also now addressed by +the most respectful term, “sir;” whereas the evening before +I had been called only “master”: by this latter appellation, +I believe, it is usual to address only farmers and quite common people.<br> +<br> +This was Sunday, and all the family were in their Sunday-clothes. +I now began to be much pleased with this village, and so I resolved +to stop at it for the day, and attend divine service. For this +purpose I borrowed a prayer-book of my host. Mr. Illing was his +name, which struck me the more, perhaps, because it is a very common +name in Germany. During my breakfast I read over several parts +of the English liturgy, and could not help being struck at the circumstance +that every word in the whole service seems to be prescribed and dictated +to the clergyman. They do not visit the sick but by a prescribed +form; as, for instance, they must begin by saying, “Peace be to +this house,” &c.<br> +<br> +Its being called a prayer-book, rather than, like ours, a hymn-book, +arises from the nature of the English service, which is composed very +little of singing, and almost entirely of praying. The psalms +of David, however, are here translated into English verse, and are generally +printed at the end of English prayer-books.<br> +<br> +The prayer-book which my landlord lent me was quite a family piece, +for all his children’s births and names, and also his own wedding-day, +were very carefully set down on it. Even on this account alone +the book would not have been uninteresting to me.<br> +<br> +At half-past nine the service began. Directly opposite to our +house, the boys of the village were all drawn up, as if they had been +recruits to be drilled; all well-looking, healthy lads, neat and decently +dressed, and with their hair cut short and combed on the forehead, according +to the English fashion; their bosoms were open, and the white frills +of their shirts turned back on each side. They seemed to be drawn +up here at the entrance of the village merely to wait the arrival of +the clergyman.<br> +<br> +I walked a little way out of the village, where, at some distance, I +saw several people coming from another village, to attend divine service +here at Nettlebed.<br> +<br> +At length came the parson on horseback. The boys pulled off their +hats, and all made him very low bows. He appeared to be rather +an elderly man, and wore his own hair round and decently dressed, or +rather curled naturally.<br> +<br> +The bell now rung in, and so I too, with a sort of secret proud sensation, +as if I also had been an Englishman, went with my prayer-book under +my arm to church, along with the rest of the congregation; and when +I got into the church, the clerk very civilly seated me close to the +pulpit.<br> +<br> +Nothing can possibly be more simple, apt, and becoming than the few +decorations of this church.<br> +<br> +Directly over the altar, on two tables in large letters, the ten commandments +were written. There surely is much wisdom and propriety in thus +placing, full in the view of the people, the sum and substance of all +morality.<br> +<br> +Under the pulpit near the steps that led up to it, was a desk, from +which the clergyman read the liturgy, the responses were all regularly +made by the clerk; the whole congregation joining occasionally, though +but in a low voice; as for instance, the minister said, “Lord, +have mercy upon us!” the clerk and the congregation immediately +subjoin, “and forgive us all our sins.” In general, +when the clergyman offers up a prayer, the clerk and the whole congregation +answer only, Amen!<br> +<br> +The English service must needs be exceedingly fatiguing to the officiating +minister, inasmuch as besides a sermon, the greatest part of the liturgy +falls to his share to read, besides the psalms and two lessons.<br> +<br> +The joining of the whole congregation in prayer has something exceedingly +solemn and affecting in it.<br> +<br> +Two soldiers, who sat near me in the church, and who had probably been +in London, seemed to wish to pass for philosophers, and wits; for they +did not join in the prayers of the church.<br> +<br> +The service was now pretty well advanced, when I observed some little +stir in the desk, the clerk was busy, and they seemed to be preparing +for something new and solemn, and I also perceived several musical instruments. +The clergyman now stopped, and the clerk then said in a loud voice, +“Let us sing to the praise and glory of God, the forty-seventh +psalm.”<br> +<br> +I cannot well express how affecting and edifying it seemed to me, to +hear this whole orderly and decent congregation, in this small country +church, joining together with vocal and instrumental music, in the praise +of their Maker. It was the more grateful, as having been performed, +not by mercenary musicians, but by the peaceful and pious inhabitants +of this sweet village. I can hardly figure to myself any offering +more likely to be grateful to God.<br> +<br> +The congregation sang and prayed alternately several times, and the +tunes of the psalms were particularly lively and cheerful, though at +the same time sufficiently grave, and uncommonly interesting. +I am a warm admirer of all sacred music, and I cannot but add that that +of the Church of England is particularly calculated to raise the heart +to devotion; I own it often affected me even to tears.<br> +<br> +The clergyman now stood up and made a short but very proper discourse +on this text: “Not all they who say, Lord, Lord! shall enter the +kingdom of heaven.” His language was particularly plain, +though forcible; his arguments were no less plain, convincing, and earnest, +but contained nothing that was particularly striking. I do not +think the sermon lasted more than half an hour.<br> +<br> +This clergyman had not perhaps a very prepossessing appearance; I thought +him also a little distant and reserved, and I did not quite like his +returning the bows of the farmers with a very formal nod.<br> +<br> +I stayed till the service was quite over, and then went out of the church +with the congregation, and amused myself with reading the inscriptions +on the tombstones in the churchyard, which in general, are simpler, +more pathetic, and better written than ours.<br> +<br> +There were some of them which, to be sure, were ludicrous and laughable +enough.<br> +<br> +Among these is one on the tomb of a smith, which on account of its singularity, +I here copy and send you.<br> +<br> +<br> +“My sledge and anvil he declined,<br> +My bellows too have lost their wind;<br> +My fire’s extinct, my forge decayed,<br> +My coals are spent, my iron’s gone,<br> +My nails are drove: my work is done.”<br> +<br> +<br> +Many of these epitaphs closed with the following quaint rhymes:<br> +<br> +<br> +“Physicians were in vain;<br> +God knew the best;<br> +So here I rest.”<br> +<br> +<br> +In the body of the church I saw a marble monument of a son of the celebrated +Dr. Wallis, with the following simple and affecting inscription:<br> +<br> +<br> +“The same good sense which qualified him for every public employment<br> +Taught him to spend his life here in retirement.”<br> +<br> +<br> +All the farmers whom I saw there were dressed, not as ours are, in coarse +frocks, but with some taste, in fine good cloth; and were to be distinguished +from the people of the town, not so much by their dress, as by the greater +simplicity and modesty of their behaviour.<br> +<br> +Some soldiers, who probably were ambitious of being thought to know +the world, and to be wits, joined me, as I was looking at the church, +and seemed to be quite ashamed of it, as they said it was only a very +miserable church. On which I took the liberty to inform them, +that no church could be miserable which contained orderly and good people.<br> +<br> +I stayed here to dinner. In the afternoon there was no service; +the young people however, went to church, and there sang some few psalms; +others of the congregation were also present. This was conducted +with so much decorum, that I could hardly help considering it as actually +a kind of church-service. I stayed with great pleasure till this +meeting also was over.<br> +<br> +I seemed indeed to be enchanted, and as if I could not leave this village. +Three times did I get off, in order to go on farther, and as often returned, +more than half resolved to spend a week, or more, in my favourite Nettlebed.<br> +<br> +But the recollection that I had but a few weeks to stay in England, +and that I must see Derbyshire, at length drove me away. I cast +many a longing, lingering look on the little church-steeple, and those +hospitable friendly roofs, where, all that morning, I had found myself +so perfectly at home.<br> +<br> +It was now nearly three o’clock in the afternoon when I left this +place, and I was still eighteen miles from Oxford. However, I +seemed resolved to make more than one stage of it to Oxford, that seat +of the muses, and so, by passing the night about five miles from it, +to reach it in good time next morning.<br> +<br> +The road from Nettlebed seemed to me but as one long fine gravel walk +in a neat garden. And my pace in it was varied, like that of one +walking in a garden: I sometimes walked quick, then slow, and then sat +down and read Milton.<br> +<br> +When I had got about eight miles from Nettlebed, and was now not far +from Dorchester, I had the Thames at some distance on my left, and on +the opposite side I saw an extensive hill, behind which a tall mast +seemed to rise. This led me to suppose that on the other side +of the hill there must needs also be a river. The prospect I promised +myself from this hill could not possibly be passed, and so I went out +of the road to the left over a bridge across the Thames, and mounted +the hill, always keeping the mast in view. When I had attained +the summit, I found (and not without some shame and chagrin) that it +was all an illusion. There was, in fact, nothing before me but +a great plain, and the mast had been fixed there, either as a maypole +only, or to entice curious people out of their way.<br> +<br> +I therefore now again, slowly and sullenly, descended the hill, at the +bottom of which was a house, where several people were looking out of +the window, and, as I supposed, laughing at me. Even if it were +so, it seemed to be but fair, and so it rather amused, than vexed me, +and I continued to jog on, without much regretting my waste journey +to the mast.<br> +<br> +Not far from Dorchester, I had another delightful view. The country +here became so fine, that I positively could not prevail on myself to +quit it, and so I laid myself down on the green turf, which was so fresh +and sweet, that I could almost have been contented, like Nebuchadnezzar, +to have grazed on it. The moon was at the full; the sun darted +its last parting rays through the green hedges, to all which was added, +the overpowering fragrance of the meadows, the diversified song of the +birds, the hills that skirted the Thames, some of them of a light, and +others of a dark-green hue, with the tufted tops of trees dispersed +here and there among them. The contemplation of all these delightful +circumstances well-nigh overcame me.<br> +<br> +I arrived rather late at Dorchester. This is only a small place, +but there is in it a large and noble old church. As I was walking +along, I saw several ladies with their heads dressed, leaning out of +their windows, or standing before the houses, and this made me conclude +that this was too fine a place for me, and so I determined to walk on +three-quarters of a mile farther to Nuneham, which place is only five +miles from Oxford. When I reached Nuneham, I was not a little +tired, and it was also quite dark.<br> +<br> +The place consists of two rows of low, neat houses, built close to each +other, and as regular and uniform as a London street. All the +doors seemed to be shut, and even a light was to be seen only in a few +of them.<br> +<br> +At length quite at the end of the place, I perceived a great sign hanging +across the street, and the last house to the left was the inn, at which +everything seemed to be still in motion.<br> +<br> +I entered without ceremony, and told them my errand, which was, that +I intended to sleep there that night. “By no means,” +was the answer, “it was utterly impossible; the whole house was +full, and all their beds engaged, and, as I had come so far, I might +even as well walk on the remaining five miles to Oxford.”<br> +<br> +Being very hungry, I requested that, at least, they would give me something +to eat. To this they answered that, as I could not stay all night +there, it would be more proper for me to sup where I lodged, and so +I might go on.<br> +<br> +At length, quite humbled by the untowardness of my circumstances, I +asked for a pot of beer, and that they did vouchsafe to give me, for +ready money only; but a bit of bread to eat with it (for which also +I would willingly have paid) they peremptorily refused me.<br> +<br> +Such unparalleled inhospitality I really could not have expected in +an English inn, but resolving, with a kind of spiteful indignation, +to see how far their inhumanity would carry them, I begged that they +would only let me sleep on a bench, and merely give me house-room, adding, +that if they would grant me that boon only, I would pay them the same +as for a bed, for, that I was so tired, I could not possibly go any +farther. Even in the moment that I was thus humbly soliciting +this humble boon, they banged the door to full in my face.<br> +<br> +As here, in a small village, they had refused to receive me, it seemed +to be presumption to hope that I should gain admittance at Oxford. +What could I do? I was much tired, and so, as it was not a very +cold night, I resolved to pass it in the open air; in this resolution, +bouncing from this rude inn, I went to look out for a convenient spot +for that purpose in an adjoining field, beneath some friendly tree. +Just as I had found a place, which I thought would do, and was going +to pull off my great coat to lay under my head by way of pillow, I heard +someone behind me, following me with a quick pace. At first I +was alarmed, but my fears were soon dispelled by his calling after me, +and asking “if I would accept of company.”<br> +<br> +As little as anyone is to be trusted who thus follows you into a field +in a dark night, yet it was a pleasure to me to find that there were +still some beings not quite inhuman, and at least one person who still +interested himself about me, I therefore stopped, and as he came up +to me he said that if I was a good walker, we might keep each other +company, as he was also going to Oxford. I readily accepted of +his proposal, and so we immediately set off together.<br> +<br> +Now, as I could not tell whether my travelling companion was to be trusted +or not, I soon took an opportunity to let him know that I was poor, +and much distressed. To confirm this, I told him of the inhumanity +with which I had just been treated at the inn, where they refused a +poor wanderer so much as a place to lay his head, or even a morsel of +bread for his money.<br> +<br> +My companion somewhat excused the people by saying that the house was +really full of people who had been at work in the neighbourhood, and +now slept there. But that they had refused me a bit of bread he +certainly could not justify. As we went along, other topics of +conversation were started, and among other things he asked me where +I came from that day.<br> +<br> +I answered from Nettlebed, and added, that I had attended divine service +there that morning.<br> +<br> +“As you probably passed through Dorchester this afternoon,” +said he, “you might have heard me preach also, had you come into +the church there, for that is my curacy, from which I am just come, +and am now returning to Oxford.” “So you are a clergyman;” +said I, quite overjoyed that, in a dark night, I had met a companion +on the road, who was of the same profession as myself. “And +I, also,” said I, “am a preacher of the gospel, though not +of this country.” And now I thought it right to give him +to understand, that it was not, as I had before intimated, out of absolute +poverty, but with a view of becoming better acquainted with men and +manners, that I thus travelled on foot. He was as much pleased +with this agreeable meeting as myself, and before we took a step farther, +we cordially shook hands.<br> +<br> +He now began to address me in Latin, and on my answering him in that +language, which I attempted to pronounce according to the English manner +of speaking it, he applauded me not a little for my correct pronunciation. +He then told me, that some years ago, in the night also, and nearly +at the same spot where he found me, he had met another German, who likewise +spoke to him in Latin; but this unknown countryman of mine had pronounced +it so very badly, that he said it was absolutely unintelligible.<br> +<br> +The conversation now turned on various theological matters; and among +others on the novel notions of a Dr. Priestly, whom he roundly blamed. +I was not at all disposed to dispute that point with him, and so, professing +with great sincerity, a high esteem for the Church of England, and great +respect and regard for its clergy, I seemed to gain his good opinion.<br> +<br> +Beguiling the tediousness of the road by such discourse, we were now +got, almost without knowing it, quite to Oxford.<br> +<br> +He told me I should now see one of the finest and most beautiful cities, +not only in England, but in all Europe. All he lamented, was, +that on account of the darkness of the night, I should not immediately +see it.<br> +<br> +This really was the case: “And now,” said he, as we entered +the town, “I introduce you into Oxford by one of the finest, the +longest, and most beautiful streets, not only in this city, but in England, +and I may safely add in all Europe.”<br> +<br> +The beauty and the magnificence of the street I could not distinguish; +but of its length I was perfectly sensible by my fatigue; for we still +went on, and still through the longest, the finest, and most beautiful +street in Europe, which seemed to have no end; nor had I any assurance +that I should be able to find a bed for myself in all this famous street. +At length my companion stopped to take leave of me, and said he should +now go to his college.<br> +<br> +“And I,” said I, “will seat myself for the night on +this stone bench and await the morning, as it will be in vain for me, +I imagine, to look for shelter in a house at this time of night.”<br> +<br> +“Seat yourself on a stone!” said my companion, and shook +his head. “No, no! come along with me to a neighbouring +ale-house, where it is possible they mayn’t be gone to bed, and +we may yet find company.” We went on a few houses further, +and then knocked at a door. It was then nearly twelve. They +readily let us in; but how great was my astonishment, when, on being +shown into a room on the left, I saw a great number of clergymen, all +with their gowns and bands on, sitting round a large table, each with +his pot of beer before him. My travelling companion introduced +me to them, as a German clergyman, whom he could not sufficiently praise +for my correct pronunciation of the Latin, my orthodoxy, and my good +walking.<br> +<br> +I now saw myself in a moment, as it were, all at once transported into +the midst of a company, all apparently very respectable men, but all +strangers to me. And it appeared to me extraordinary that I should, +thus at midnight, be in Oxford, in a large company of Oxonian clergy, +without well knowing how I had got there. Meanwhile, however, +I took all the pains in my power to recommend myself to my company, +and in the course of conversation, I gave them as good an account as +I could of our German universities, neither denying nor concealing that, +now and then, we had riots and disturbances. “Oh, we are +very unruly here, too,” said one of the clergymen as he took a +hearty draught out of his pot of beer, and knocked on the table with +his hand. The conversation now became louder, more general, and +a little confused; they enquired after Mr. Bruns, at present professor +at Helmstadt, and who was known by many of them.<br> +<br> +Among these gentlemen there was one of the name of Clerk, who seemed +ambitious to pass for a great wit, which he attempted by starting sundry +objections to the Bible. I should have liked him better if he +had confined himself to punning and playing on his own name, by telling +us again and again, that he should still be at least a Clerk, even though +he should never become a clergyman. Upon the whole, however, he +was, in his way, a man of some humour, and an agreeable companion.<br> +<br> +Among other objections to the Scriptures, he started this one to my +travelling companion, whose name I now learnt was Maud, that it was +said in the Bible that God was a wine-bibber. On this Mr. Maud +fell into a violent passion, and maintained that it was utterly impossible +that any such passage should be found in the Bible. Another divine, +a Mr. Caern referred us to his absent brother, who had already been +forty years in the church, and must certainly know something of such +a passage if it were in the Bible, but he would venture to lay any wager +his brother knew nothing of it.<br> +<br> +“Waiter! fetch a Bible!” called out Mr. Clerk, and a great +family Bible was immediately brought in, and opened on the table among +all the beer jugs.<br> +<br> +Mr. Clerk turned over a few leaves, and in the book of Judges, 9th chapter, +verse xiii, he read, “Should I leave my wine, which cheereth God +and man?”<br> +<br> +Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, who had before been most violent, now sat as +if struck dumb. A silence of some minutes prevailed, when all +at once, the spirit of revelation seemed to come on me, and I said, +“Why, gentlemen, you must be sensible that it is but an allegorical +expression;” and I added, “how often in the Bible are kings +called gods!”<br> +<br> +“Why, yes, to be sure,” said Mr. Maud and Mr. Caern, “it +is an allegorical expression; nothing can be more clear; it is a metaphor, +and therefore it is absurd to understand it in a literal sense.” +And now they, in their turn, triumphed over poor Clerk, and drank large +draughts to my health in strong ale; which, as my company seemed to +like so much, I was sorry I could not like. It either intoxicated +or stupefied me; and I do think it overpowers one much sooner than so +much wine would. The conversation now turned on many other different +subjects. At last, when morning drew near, Mr. Maud suddenly exclaimed, +“D-n me, I must read prayers this morning at All-Souls!” +D-n me is an abbreviation of G-d d-n me; which, in England, does not +seem to mean more mischief or harm than any of our or their common expletives +in conversation, such as O gemini! or, The deuce take me!<br> +<br> +Before Mr. Maud went away, he invited me to go and see him in the morning, +and very politely offered himself to show me the curiosities of Oxford. +The rest of the company now also dispersed; and as I had once (though +in so singular a manner) been introduced into so reputable a society, +the people of the house made no difficulty of giving me lodging, but +with great civility showed me a very decent bed-chamber.<br> +<br> +I am almost ashamed to own, that next morning, when I awoke, I had got +so dreadful a headache, from the copious and numerous toasts of my jolly +and reverend friends, that I could not possibly get up; still less could +I wait on Mr. Maud at his college.<br> +<br> +The inn where I was goes by the name of the Mitre. Compared to +Windsor, I here found prince-like attendance. Being, perhaps, +a little elevated the preceding evening, I had in the gaiety, or perhaps +in the vanity of my heart, told the waiter, that he must not think, +because I came on foot, that therefore I should give him less than others +gave. I assured him of the contrary. It was probably not +a little owing to this assurance that I had so much attention shown +to me.<br> +<br> +I now determined to stay at least a couple of days at Oxford; it was +necessary and proper, if for no other reason, yet merely that I might +have clean linen. No people are so cleanly as the English, nor +so particular about neat and clean linen. For, one afternoon, +my shirt not having been lately changed, as I was walking through a +little street, I heard two women, who were standing at a door, call +after me, “Look at the gentleman there! a fine gentleman, indeed, +who cannot afford even a clean shirt!”<br> +<br> +I dined below with the family, and a few other persons, and the conversation +in general was agreeable enough. I was obliged to tell them many +wonderful stories (for who are so illiterate or insensible as not to +be delighted with the marvellous!) concerning Germany and the King of +Prussia. They could not sufficiently admire my courage in determining +to travel on foot, although they could not help approving of the motive. +At length, however, it came out, and they candidly owned, that I should +not have been received into their house, had I not been introduced as +I was.<br> +<br> +I was now confirmed in my suspicions, that, in England, any person undertaking +so long a journey on foot, is sure to be looked upon and considered +as either a beggar or a vagabond, or some necessitous wretch, which +is a character not much more popular than that of a rogue; so that I +could now easily account for my reception in Windsor and at Nuneham. +But, with all my partiality for this country, it is impossible even +in theory, and much less so in practice, to approve of a system which +confines all the pleasures and benefits of travel to the rich. +A poor peripatetic is hardly allowed even the humble merit of being +honest.<br> +<br> +As I still intended to pursue my journey to Derbyshire, I was advised +(at least till I got further into the country) to take a place in a +post-coach. They told me that the further I got from London, the +more reasonable and humble I should find the people; everything would +be cheaper, and everybody more hospitable. This determined me +to go in the post-coach from Oxford to Birmingham; where Mr. Pointer, +of London, had recommended me to a Mr. Fothergill, a merchant there; +and from thence to continue my journey on foot.<br> +<br> +Monday I spent at Oxford, but rather unpleasantly, on account of my +headache. Mr. Maud himself came to fetch me, as he had promised +he would, but I found myself unable to go with him.<br> +<br> +Notwithstanding this, in the afternoon, I took a little walk up a hill, +which lies to the north of Oxford; and from the top of which I could +see the whole city; which did not, however, appear to me nearly so beautiful +and magnificent as Mr. Maud had described it to me during our last night’s +walk.<br> +<br> +The colleges are mostly in the Gothic taste, and much overloaded with +ornaments, and built with grey stone; which, perhaps, while it is new, +looks pretty well, but it has now the most dingy, dirty, and disgusting +appearance that you can possibly imagine.<br> +<br> +Only one of these colleges is in the modern style. The houses +of the city are in general ordinary, in some parts quite miserable; +in some streets they are only one story high, and have shingled roofs. +To me Oxford seemed to have but a dull and gloomy look; and I cannot +but wonder how it ever came to be considered as so fine a city, and +next to London.<br> +<br> +I remained on the hill, on which there was a flight of steps that led +to a subterraneous walk, till sunset, and saw several students walking +here, who wore their black gowns over their coloured clothes, and flat +square hats, just like those I had seen worn by the Eton scholars. +This is the general dress of all those who belong to the universities, +with the exception of a very trifling difference, by which persons of +high birth and rank are distinguished.<br> +<br> +It is probably on account of these gowns that the members of the university +are called Gownsmen, to distinguish them from the citizens, who are +called Townsmen; and when you want to mention all the inhabitants of +Oxford together, you say, “the whole town, Gownsmen and Townsmen.”<br> +<br> +This dress, I must own, pleases me far beyond the boots, cockades, and +other frippery, of many of our students. Nor am I less delighted +with the better behaviour and conduct which, in general, does so much +credit to the students of Oxford.<br> +<br> +The next morning Mr. Maud, according to his promise, showed me some +of the things most worthy of notice in Oxford. And first he took +me to his own room in his own college, which was on the ground floor, +very low and dark, and resembled a cell, at least as much as a place +of study. The name of this college is Corpus Christi. He +next conducted me to All Souls’ College, a very elegant building, +in which the chapel is particularly beautiful. Mr. Maud also showed +me, over the altar here, a fine painting of Mengs, at the sight of which +he showed far more sensibility than I thought him possessed of. +He said that notwithstanding he saw that painting almost daily, he never +saw it without being much affected.<br> +<br> +The painting represented Mary Magdalene when she first suddenly sees +Jesus standing before her, and falls at His feet. And in her countenance +pain, joy, grief, in short almost all the strongest of our passions, +are expressed in so masterly a manner, that no man of true taste was +ever tired of contemplating it; the longer it is looked at the more +it is admired. He now also showed me the library of this college, +which is provided with a gallery round the top, and the whole is most +admirably regulated and arranged. Among other things, I here saw +a description of Oxford, with plates to illustrate it: and I cannot +help observing what, though trite, is true, that all these places look +much better, and are far more beautiful on paper, than they appeared +to me to be as I looked at them where they actually stand.<br> +<br> +Afterwards Mr. Maud conducted me to the Bodleian Library, which is not +unworthy of being compared to the Vatican at Rome; and next to the building +which is called the Theatre, and where the public orations are delivered. +This is a circular building with a gallery all round it, which is furnished +with benches one above the other, on which the doctors, masters of arts, +and students sit, and directly opposite to each other are erected two +chairs, or pulpits, from which the disputants harangue and contend.<br> +<br> +Christ Church and Queen’s College are the most modern, and, I +think, indisputably the best built of all the colleges. Balliol +College seems particularly to be distinguished on account of its antiquity, +and its complete Gothic style of building.<br> +<br> +Mr. Maud told me that a good deal of money might be sometimes earned +by preaching at Oxford; for all the members of a certain standing are +obliged in their turn to preach in the church of the university; but +many of them, when it comes to their turn, prefer the procuring a substitute; +and so not unfrequently pay as high as five or six guineas for a sermon.<br> +<br> +Mr. Maud also told me he had been now eighteen years at this university, +and might be made a doctor whenever he chose it: he was a master of +arts, and according to his own account gave lectures in his college +on the classics. He also did the duty and officiated as curate, +occasionally, in some of the neighbouring villages. Going along +the street we met the English poet laureate, Warton, now rather an elderly +man; and yet he is still the fellow of a college. His greatest +pleasure next to poetry is, as Mr. Maud told me, shooting wild ducks.<br> +<br> +Mr. Maud seemed upon the whole to be a most worthy and philanthropic +man. He told me, that where he now officiated the clerk was dead, +and had left a numerous family in the greatest distress; and that he +was going to the place next day, on purpose to try if he could bring +about the election of the son, a lad about sixteen years of age, in +the place of his deceased father, as clerk, to support a necessitous +family.<br> +<br> +At the Mitre, the inn where I lodged, there was hardly a minute in which +some students or others did not call, either to drink, or to amuse themselves +in conversation with the daughter of the landlord, who is not only handsome, +but sensible, and well behaved.<br> +<br> +They often spoke to me much in praise of a German, of the name of Mitchel, +at least they pronounced it so, who had for many years rendered himself +famous as a musician. I was rejoiced to hear one of my countrymen +thus praised by the English; and wished to have paid him a visit, but +I had not the good fortune to find him at home.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER XI.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>Castleton</i>, <i>June</i> 30<i>th</i>.<br> +<br> +Before I tell you anything of the place where I now am, I will proceed +regularly in my narrative, and so begin now where I left off in my last +letter. On Tuesday afternoon Mr. Maud took me to the different +walks about Oxford, and often remarked, that they were not only the +finest in England, but he believed in Europe. I own I do not think +he over-rated their merit. There is one in particular near the +river, and close to some charming meadows, behind Corpus Christi College, +which may fairly challenge the world.<br> +<br> +We here seated ourselves on a bench, and Mr. Maud drew a review from +his pocket, where, among other things, a German book of Professor Beckman’s +was reviewed and applauded. Mr. Maud seemed, on this occasion, +to show some respect for German literature. At length we parted. +He went to fill up the vacancy of the clerk’s place at Dorchester, +and I to the Mitre, to prepare for my departure from Oxford, which took +place on Wednesday morning at three o’clock, in the post-coach. +Considering the pleasing, if not kind attention shown me here, I own +I thought my bill not unreasonable; though to be sure, it made a great +hole in my little purse.<br> +<br> +Within this coach there was another young man, who, though dressed in +black, yet to judge from the cockade in his hat might be an officer. +The outside was quite full with soldiers and their wives. The +women of the lower class here wear a kind of short cloak made of red +cloth: but women in general, from the highest to the lowest, wear hats, +which differ from each other less in fashion than they do in fineness.<br> +<br> +Fashion is so generally attended to among the English women, that the +poorest maid-servant is careful to be in the fashion. They seem +to be particularly so in their hats or bonnets, which they all wear: +and they are in my opinion far more becoming than the very unsightly +hoods and caps which our German women, of the rank of citizens, wear. +There is, through all ranks here, not near so great a distinction between +high and low as there is in Germany.<br> +<br> +I had, during this day, a little headache; which rendered me more silent +and reserved to my company than is either usual in England or natural +to me. The English are taxed, perhaps too hastily, with being +shy and distant to strangers. I do not think this was, even formerly, +their true character; or that any such sentiment is conveyed in Virgil’s +“<i>Hospitibus feros</i>.” Be this as it may, the +case was here reversed. The Englishman here spoke to me several +times in a very friendly manner, while I testified not the least inclination +to enter into conversation with him.<br> +<br> +He however owned afterwards that it was this very apparent reserve of +mine that first gained me his good opinion.<br> +<br> +He said he had studied physic, but with no immediate view of practising +it. His intention, he said, was to go to the East Indies, and +there, first, to try his fortune as an officer. And he was now +going to Birmingham, merely to take leave of his three sisters, whom +he much loved, and who were at school there.<br> +<br> +I endeavoured to merit his confidence by telling him in my turn of my +journey on foot through England; and by relating to him a few of the +most remarkable of my adventures. He frankly told me he thought +it was venturing a great deal, yet he applauded the design of my journey, +and did not severely censure my plan. On my asking him why Englishmen, +who were so remarkable for acting up to their own notions and ideas, +did not, now and then, merely to see life in every point of view, travel +on foot. “Oh,” said he, “we are too rich, too +lazy, and too proud.”<br> +<br> +And most true it is, that the poorest Englishman one sees, is prouder +and better pleased to expose himself to the danger of having his neck +broken on the outside of a stage, than to walk any considerable distance, +though he might walk ever so much at his ease. I own I was frightened +and distressed when I saw the women, where we occasionally stopped, +get down from the top of the coach. One of them was actually once +in much danger of a terrible fall from the roof, because, just as she +was going to alight, the horses all at once unexpectedly went on. +From Oxford to Birmingham is sixty-two miles; but all that was to be +seen between the two places was entirely lost to me, for I was again +mewed up in a post-coach, and driven along with such velocity from one +place to another, that I seemed to myself as doing nothing less than +travelling.<br> +<br> +My companion, however, made me amends in some measure for this loss. +He seemed to be an exceedingly good-tempered and intelligent man; and +I felt in this short time a prepossession in his favour one does not +easily form for an ordinary person. This, I flattered myself, +was also the case with him, and it would mortify me not a little to +think he had quite forgotten me, as I am sure I shall never forget him.<br> +<br> +Just as we had been sometime eagerly conversing about Shakespeare, we +arrived, without either of us having thought of it, at Stratford-upon-Avon, +Shakespeare’s birthplace, where our coach stopped, that being +the end of one stage. We were still two-and-twenty miles from +Birmingham, and ninety-four from London. I need not tell you what +our feelings were, on thus setting our feet on classic ground.<br> +<br> +It was here that perhaps the greatest genius nature ever produced was +born. Here he first lisped his native tongue; here first conceived +the embryos of those compositions which were afterwards to charm a listening +world; and on these plains the young Hercules first played. And +here, too, in this lowly hut, with a few friends, he happily spent the +decline of his life, after having retired from the great theatre of +that busy world whose manners he had so faithfully portrayed.<br> +<br> +The river Avon is here pretty broad, and a row of neat though humble +cottages, only one storey high, with shingled roofs, are ranged all +along its banks. These houses impressed me strongly with the idea +of patriarchal simplicity and content.<br> +<br> +We went to see Shakespeare’s own house, which, of all the houses +at Stratford I think is now the worst, and one that made the least appearance. +Yet, who would not be proud to be the owner of it? There now however +lived in it only two old people, who show it to strangers for a trifle, +and what little they earn thus is their chief income.<br> +<br> +Shakespeare’s chair, in which he used to sit before the door, +was so cut to pieces that it hardly looked like a chair; for every one +that travels through Stratford cuts off a chip as a remembrance, which +he carefully preserves, and deems a precious relic, I also cut myself +a piece of it, but reverencing Shakespeare as I do, I am almost ashamed +to own to you it was so small that I have lost it, and therefore you +will not see it on my return.<br> +<br> +As we travelled, I observed every spot with attention, fancying to myself +that such or such a spot might be the place where such a genius as Shakespeare’s +first dawned, and received those first impressions from surrounding +nature which are so strongly marked in all his works. The first +impressions of childhood, I knew, were strong and permanent; of course +I made sure of seeing here some images at least of the wonderful conceptions +of this wonderful man. But my imagination misled me, and I was +disappointed; for I saw nothing in the country thereabouts at all striking, +or in any respect particularly beautiful. It was not at all wild +and romantic; but rather distinguished for an air of neatness and simplicity.<br> +<br> +We arrived at Birmingham about three o’clock in the afternoon. +I had already paid sixteen shillings at Stratford for my place in the +coach from Oxford to Birmingham. At Oxford they had not asked +anything of me, and indeed you are not obliged in general in England, +as you are in Germany, to pay your passage beforehand.<br> +<br> +My companion and myself alighted at the inn where the coach stopped. +We parted with some reluctance, and I was obliged to promise him that, +on my return to London, I would certainly call on him, for which purpose +he gave me his address. His father was Dr. Wilson, a celebrated +author in his particular style of writing.<br> +<br> +I now inquired for the house of Mr. Fothergill, to whom I was recommended, +and I was readily directed to it, but had the misfortune to learn, at +the same time, that this very Mr. Fothergill had died about eight days +before. As, therefore, under these circumstances, my recommendation +to him was likely to be but of little use, I had the less desire to +tarry long at Birmingham, and so, without staying a minute longer, I +immediately inquired the road to Derby, and left Birmingham. Of +this famous manufacturing town, therefore, I can give you no account.<br> +<br> +The road from Birmingham onwards is not very agreeable, being in general +uncommonly sandy. Yet the same evening I reached a little place +called Sutton, where everything, however, appeared to be too grand for +me to hope to obtain lodgings in it, till quite at the end of it I came +to a small inn with the sign of the Swan, under which was written Aulton, +brickmaker.<br> +<br> +This seemed to have something in it that suited me, and therefore I +boldly went into it; and when in I did not immediately, as heretofore, +inquire if I could stay all night there, but asked for a pint of ale. +I own I felt myself disheartened by their calling me nothing but master, +and by their showing me into the kitchen, where the landlady was sitting +at a table and complaining much of the toothache. The compassion +I expressed for her on this account, as a stranger, seemed soon to recommend +me to her favour, and she herself asked me if I would not stay the night +there? To this I most readily assented; and thus I was again happy +in a lodging for another night.<br> +<br> +The company I here met with consisted of a female chimney-sweeper and +her children, who, on my sitting down in the kitchen, soon drank to +my health, and began a conversation with me and the landlady.<br> +<br> +She related to us her history, which I am not ashamed to own I thought +not uninteresting. She had married early, but had the hard luck +to be soon deprived of her husband, by his being pressed as a soldier. +She neither saw nor heard of him for many years, so concluded he was +dead. Thus destitute, she lived seven years as a servant in Ireland, +without any one’s knowing that she was married. During this +time her husband, who was a chimney-sweeper, came back to England and +settled at Lichfield, resumed his old trade, and did well in it. +As soon as he was in good circumstances, he everywhere made inquiry +for his wife, and at last found out where she was, and immediately fetched +her from Ireland. There surely is something pleasing in this constancy +of affection in a chimney-sweeper. She told us, with tears in +her eyes, in what a style of grandeur he had conducted her into Lichfield; +and how, in honour to her, he made a splendid feast on the occasion. +At this same Lichfield, which is only two miles from Sutton, and through +which she said the road lay which I was to travel to-morrow, she still +lived with this same excellent husband, where they were noted for their +industry, where everybody respected them, and where, though in the lowest +sphere, they are passing through life neither uselessly nor unhappily.<br> +<br> +The landlady, during her absence, told me as in confidence, that this +chimney-sweeper’s husband, as meanly as I might fancy she now +appeared, was worth a thousand pounds, and that without reckoning in +their plate and furniture, that he always wore his silver watch, and +that when he passed through Sutton, and lodged there, he paid like a +nobleman.<br> +<br> +She further remarked that the wife was indeed rather low-lived; but +that the husband was one of the best-behaved, politest, and civilest +men in the world. I had myself taken notice that this same dingy +companion of mine had something singularly coarse and vulgar in her +pronunciation. The word old, for example, she sounded like auld. +In other respects, I had not yet remarked any striking variety or difference +from the pronunciation of Oxford or London.<br> +<br> +To-morrow the chimney-sweeper, said she, her husband, would not be at +home, but if I came back by the way of Lichfield, she would take the +liberty to request the honour of a visit, and to this end she told me +her name and the place of her abode.<br> +<br> +At night the rest of the family, a son and daughter of the landlady, +came home, and paid all possible attention to their sick mother. +I supped with the family, and they here behaved to me as if we had already +lived many years together.<br> +<br> +Happening to mention that I was, if not a scholar, yet a student, the +son told me there was at Sutton a celebrated grammar-school, where the +school-master received two hundred pounds a year settled salary, besides +the income arising from the scholars.<br> +<br> +And this was only in a village. I thought, and not without some +shame and sorrow, of our grammar-schools in Germany, and the miserable +pay of the masters.<br> +<br> +When I paid my reckoning the next morning, I observed the uncommon difference +here and at Windsor, Nettlebed, and Oxford. At Oxford I was obliged +to pay for my supper, bed, and breakfast at least three shillings, and +one to the waiter. I here paid for my supper, bed, and breakfast +only one shilling, and to the daughter, whom I was to consider as chambermaid, +fourpence; for which she very civilly thanked me, and gave me a written +recommendation to an inn at Lichfield, where I should be well lodged, +as the people in Lichfield were, in general, she said, very proud. +This written recommendation was a masterpiece of orthography, and showed +that in England, as well as elsewhere, there are people who write entirely +from the ear, and as they pronounce. In English, however, it seems +to look particularly odd, but perhaps that may be the case in all languages +that are not native.<br> +<br> +I took leave here, as one does of good friends, with a certain promise +that on my return I would certainly call on them again.<br> +<br> +At noon I got to Lichfield, an old-fashioned town with narrow dirty +streets, where for the first time I saw round panes of glass in the +windows. The place to mime wore an unfriendly appearance; I therefore +made no use of my recommendation, but went straight through, and only +bought some bread at a baker’s, which I took along with me.<br> +<br> +At night I reached Burton, where the famous Burton ale is brewed. +By this time I felt myself pretty well tired, and therefore proposed +to stay the night here. But my courage failed me, and I dropped +the resolution immediately on my entering the town. The houses +and everything else seemed to wear as grand an appearance, almost, as +if I had been still in London. And yet the manners of some of +its inhabitants were so thoroughly rustic and rude, that I saw them +actually pointing at me with their fingers as a foreigner. And +now, to complete my chagrin and mortification, I came to a long street, +where everybody on both sides of the way were at their doors, and actually +made me run the gauntlet through their inquiring looks. Some even +hissed at me as I passed along. All my arguments to induce me +to pluck up my courage, such as the certainty that I should never see +these people again nor they me, were of no use. Burton became +odious and almost insupportable to me; and the street appeared as long +and tired me as much, as if I had walked a mile. This strongly-marked +contemptuous treatment of a stranger, who was travelling through their +country merely from the respect he bore it, I experienced nowhere but +at Burton.<br> +<br> +How happy did I feel when I again found myself out of their town, although +at that moment I did not know where I should find a lodging for the +night, and was, besides, excessively tired. But I pursued my journey, +and still kept in the road to Derby, along a footpath which I knew to +be right. It led across a very pleasant mead, the hedges of which +were separated by stiles, over which I was often obliged to clamber. +When I had walked some distance without meeting with an inn on the road, +and it had already begun to be dark, I at last sat me down near a small +toll-house, or a turnpike-gate, in order to rest myself, and also to +see whether the man at the turnpike could and would lodge me.<br> +<br> +After I had sat here a considerable time, a farmer came riding by, and +asked me where I wanted to go? I told him I was so tired that +I could go no farther. On this the good-natured and truly hospitable +man, of his own accord and without the least distrust, offered to take +me behind him on his horse and carry me to a neighbouring inn, where +he said I might stay all night.<br> +<br> +The horse was a tall one, and I could not easily get up. The turnpike-man, +who appeared to be quite decrepid and infirm, on this came out. +I took it for granted, however, that he who appeared to have hardly +sufficient strength to support himself could not help me. This +poor looking, feeble old man, however, took hold of me with one arm, +and lifted me with a single jerk upon the horse so quick and so alertly +that it quite astonished me.<br> +<br> +And now I trotted on with my charming farmer, who did not ask me one +single impertinent question, but set me down quietly at the inn, and +immediately rode away to his own village, which lay to the left.<br> +<br> +This inn was called the Bear, and not improperly; for the landlord went +about and growled at his people just like a bear, so that at first I +expected no favourable reception. I endeavoured to gentle him +a little by asking for a mug of ale, and once or twice drinking to him. +This succeeded; he soon became so very civil and conversable, that I +began to think him quite a pleasant fellow. This device I had +learnt of the “Vicar of Wakefield,” who always made his +hosts affable by inviting them to drink with him. It was an expedient +that suited me also in another point of view, as the strong ale of England +did not at all agree with me.<br> +<br> +This innkeeper called me sir; and he made his people lay a separate +table for himself and me; for he said he could see plainly I was a gentleman.<br> +<br> +In our chat, we talked much of George the Second, who appeared to be +his favourite king, much more so than George the Third. And among +others things, we talked of the battle at Dettingen, of which he knew +many particulars. I was obliged also in my turn to tell him stories +of our great King of Prussia, and his numerous armies, and also what +sheep sold for in Prussia. After we had been thus talking some +time, chiefly on political matters, he all at once asked me if I could +blow the French horn? This he supposed I could do, only because +I came from Germany; for he said he remembered, when he was a boy, a +German had once stopped at the inn with his parents who blew the French +horn extremely well. He therefore fancied this was a talent peculiar +to the Germans.<br> +<br> +I removed this error, and we resumed our political topics, while his +children and servants at some distance listened with great respect to +our conversation.<br> +<br> +Thus I again spent a very agreeable evening; and when I had breakfasted +in the morning, my bill was not more than it had been at Sutton. +I at length reached the common before Derby on Friday morning. +The air was mild, and I seemed to feel myself uncommonly cheerful and +happy. About noon the romantic part of the country began to open +upon me. I came to a lofty eminence, where all at once I saw a +boundless prospect of hills before me, behind which fresh hills seemed +always to arise, and to be infinite.<br> +<br> +The ground now seemed undulatory, and to rise and fall like waves; when +at the summit of the rise I seemed to be first raised aloft, and had +an extensive view all around me, and the next moment, when I went down +the hill, I lost it.<br> +<br> +In the afternoon I saw Derby in the vale before me, and I was now an +hundred and twenty-six miles from London. Derby is but a small, +and not very considerable town. It was market-day when I got there, +and I was obliged to pass through a crowd of people: but there was here +no such odious curiosity, no offensive staring, as at Burton. +At this place too I took notice that I began to be always civilly bowed +to by the children of the villages through which I passed.<br> +<br> +From Derby to the baths of Matlock, which is one of the most romantic +situations, it was still fifteen miles. On my way thither, I came +to a long and extensive village, which I believe was called Duffield. +They here at least did not show me into the kitchen, but into the parlour; +and I dined on cold victuals.<br> +<br> +The prints and pictures which I have generally seen at these inns are, +I think, almost always prints of the royal family, oftentimes in a group, +where the king, as the father of the family, assembles his children +around him; or else I have found a map of London, and not seldom the +portrait of the King of Prussia; I have met with it several times. +You also sometimes see some of the droll prints of Hogarth. The +heat being now very great, I several times in this village heard the +commiserating exclamation of “Good God Almighty!” by which +the people expressed their pity for me, as being a poor foot passenger.<br> +<br> +At night I again stopped at an inn on the road, about five miles from +Matlock. I could easily have reached Matlock, but I wished rather +to reserve the first view of the country till the next day than to get +there when it was dark.<br> +<br> +But I was not equally fortunate in this inn, as in the two former. +The kitchen was full of farmers, among whom I could not distinguish +the landlord, whose health I should otherwise immediately have drank. +It is true I heard a country girl who was also in the kitchen, as often +as she drank say, “Your health, gentlemen all!” But +I do not know how it was, I forgot to drink any one’s health, +which I afterwards found was taken much amiss. The landlord drank +twice to my health sneeringly, as if to reprimand me for my incivility; +and then began to join the rest in ridiculing me, who almost pointed +at me with their fingers. I was thus obliged for a time to serve +the farmers as a laughing-stock, till at length one of them compassionately +said, “Nay, nay, we must do him no harm, for he is a stranger.” +The landlord, I suppose, to excuse himself, as if he thought he had +perhaps before gone too far said, “Ay, God forbid we should hurt +any stranger,” and ceased his ridicule; but when I was going to +drink his health, he slighted and refused my attention, and told me, +with a sneer, all I had to do was to seat myself in the chimney-corner, +and not trouble myself about the rest of the world. The landlady +seemed to pity me, and so she led me into another room where I could +be alone, saying, “What wicked people!”<br> +<br> +I left this unfriendly roof early the next morning, and now quickly +proceeded to Matlock.<br> +<br> +The extent of my journey I had now resolved should be the great cavern +near Castleton, in the high Peak of Derbyshire. It was about twenty +miles beyond Matlock.<br> +<br> +The country here had quite a different appearance from that at Windsor +and Richmond. Instead of green meadows and pleasant hills, I now +saw barren mountains and lofty rocks; instead of fine living hedges, +the fields and pasture lands here were fenced with a wall of grey stone; +and of this very same stone, which is here everywhere to be found in +plenty, all the houses are built in a very uniform and patriarchal manner, +inasmuch as the rough stones are almost without any preparation placed +one upon another, and compose four walls, so that in case of necessity, +a man might here without much trouble build himself a house. At +Derby the houses seem to be built of the same stone.<br> +<br> +The situation of Matlock itself surpassed every idea I had formed of +it. On the right were some elegant houses for the bathing company, +and lesser cottages suspended like birds’ nests in a high rock; +to the left, deep in the bottom, there was a fine bold river, which +was almost hid from the eye by a majestic arch formed by high trees, +which hung over it. A prodigious stone wall extended itself above +a mile along its border, and all along there is a singularly romantic +and beautiful secret walk, sheltered and adorned by many beautiful shrubs.<br> +<br> +The steep rock was covered at the top with green bushes, and now and +then a sheep, or a cow, separated from the grazing flock, came to the +edge of the precipice, and peeped over it.<br> +<br> +I have got, in Milton’s “Paradise Lost,” which I am +reading thoroughly through, just to the part where he describes Paradise, +when I arrived here and the following passage, which I read at the brink +of the river, had a most striking and pleasing effect on me. The +landscape here described was as exactly similar to that I saw before +me, as if the poet had taken it from hence<br> +<br> +<br> +“ - delicious Paradise,<br> +Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green,<br> +As with a rural mound, the champion head<br> +Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides<br> +With thicket overgrown, grotesque and wild,<br> +Access denied.” - <i>Book</i> IV. v. 132.<br> +<br> +<br> +From Matlock Baths you go over Matlock Bridge, to the little town of +Matlock itself, which, in reality, scarcely deserves the name of a village, +as it consists of but a few and miserable houses. There is here, +on account of the baths, a number of horses and carriages, and a great +thoroughfare. From hence I came through some villages to a small +town of the name of Bakewell. The whole country in this part is +hilly and romantic. Often my way led me, by small passes, over +astonishing eminences, where, in the deep below me, I saw a few huts +or cottages lying. The fencing of the fields with grey stone gave +the whole a wild and not very promising appearance. The hills +were in general not wooded, but naked and barren; and you saw the flocks +at a distance grazing on their summit.<br> +<br> +As I was coming through one of the villages, I heard a great farmer’s +boy eagerly ask another if he did not think I was a Frenchman. +It seemed as if he had been waiting some time to see the wonder; for, +he spoke as though his wish was now accomplished.<br> +<br> +When I was past Bakewell, a place far inferior to Derby, I came by the +side of a broad river, to a small eminence, where a fine cultivated +field lay before me. This field, all at once, made an indescribable +and very pleasing impression on me, which at first, I could not account +for; till I recollected having seen, in my childhood, near the village +where I was educated, a situation strikingly similar to that now before +me here in England.<br> +<br> +This field, as if it had been in Germany, was not enclosed with hedges, +but every spot in it was uninterruptedly diversified with all kinds +of crops and growths of different green and yellowish colours, which +gave the whole a most pleasing effect; but besides this large field, +the general view of the country, and a thousand other little circumstances +which I cannot now particularly enumerate, served to bring back to my +recollection the years of my youth.<br> +<br> +Here I rested myself a while, and when I was going on again I thought +of the place of my residence, on all my acquaintances, and not a little +on you, my dearest friend, and imagined what you would think and say, +if you were to see your friend thus wandering here all alone, totally +unknown, and in a foreign land. And at that moment I first seriously +felt the idea of distance, and the thought that I was now in England, +so very far from all I loved, or who loved me, produced in me such sensations +as I have not often felt.<br> +<br> +It was perhaps the same with you, my dearest friend, when on our journey +to Hamburg we drove from Perlsbeg, to your birthplace, the village of +Boberow; where, among the farmers, you again found your own playmates, +one of whom was now become the bailiff of the place. On your asking +them whether they knew you, one and all of them answered so heartily, +“O, yes, yes - why, your are Master Frederic.” The +pedantic school-master, you will remember, was not so frank. He +expressed himself in the stiff town phrase of, “He had not the +honour of knowing you, as during your residence in that village, when +a child, he had not been <i>in loco</i>.”<br> +<br> +I now came through a little place of the name of Ashford, and wished +to reach the small village of Wardlow, which was only three miles distant, +when two men came after me, at a distance, whom I had already seen at +Matlock, who called to me to wait for them. These were the only +foot passengers since Mr. Maud, who had offered to walk with me.<br> +<br> +The one was a saddler, and wore a short brown jacket and an apron, with +a round hat. The other was very decently dressed, but a very silent +man, whereas the saddler was quite talkative.<br> +<br> +I listened with astonishment when I heard him begin to speak of Homer, +of Horace, and of Virgil; and still more when he quoted several passages, +by memory, from each of these authors, pronouncing the words, and laying +his emphasis, with as much propriety as I could possibly have expected, +had he been educated at Cambridge or at Oxford. He advised me +not to go to Wardlow, where I should find bad accommodations, but rather +a few miles to Tideswell, where he lived. This name is, by a singular +abbreviation, pronounced Tidsel, the same as Birmingham is called by +the common people Brummidgeham.<br> +<br> +We halted at a small ale-house on the road-side, where the saddler stopped +to drink and talk, and from whence he was in no haste to depart. +He had the generosity and honour, however, to pay my share of the reckoning, +because, as he said, he had brought me hither.<br> +<br> +At no great distance from the house we came to a rising ground, where +my philosophical saddler made me observe a prospect, which was perhaps +the only one of the kind in England. Below us was a hollow, not +unlike a huge kettle, hollowed out of the surrounding mass of earth; +and at the bottom of it a little valley, where the green meadow was +divided by a small rivulet, that ran in serpentine windings, its banks +graced with the most inviting walks; behind a small winding, there is +just seen a house where one of the most distinguished inhabitants of +this happy vale, a great philosopher, lives retired, dedicating almost +all his time to his favourite studies. He has transplanted a number +of foreign plants into his grounds. My guide fell into almost +a poetic rapture as he pointed out to me the beauties of this vale, +while our third companion, who grew tired, became impatient at our tediousness.<br> +<br> +We were now led by a steep road to the vale, through which we passed, +and then ascended again among the hills on the other side.<br> +<br> +Not far from Tideswell our third companion left us, as he lived in a +neighbouring place. As we now at length saw Tideswell lying before +us in the vale, the saddler began to give me an account of his family, +adding, by way of episode, that he never quarrelled with his wife, nor +had ever once threatened her with his fist, much less, ever lifted it +against her. For his own sake, he said, he never called her names, +nor gave her the lie. I must here observe, that it is the greatest +offence you can give any one in England to say to him, <i>you lie</i>.<br> +<br> +To be called a <i>liar </i>is a still greater affront, and you <i>are +a damned liar</i>, is the very acme of vulgar abuse.<br> +<br> +Just as in Germany, no one will bear the name of a <i>scoundrel, </i>or +<i>knave, </i>or as in all quarrels, the bestowing such epithets on +our adversary is the signal for fighting, so the term of a <i>liar </i>in +England is the most offensive, and is always resented by blows. +A man would never forgive himself, nor be forgiven, who could bear to +be called a <i>liar.<br> +<br> +</i>Our Jackey in London once looked at me with astonishment, on my +happening to say to him in a joke, you <i>are a liar</i>. I assure +you I had much to do before I could pacify him.<br> +<br> +If one may form a judgment of the character of the whole nation, from +such little circumstances as this, I must say this rooted hatred of +the word liar appears to me to be no bad trait in the English.<br> +<br> +But to return to my travelling companion, who further told me that he +was obliged to earn his livelihood, at some distance from home, and +that he was now returning for the first time, for these two months, +to his family.<br> +<br> +He showed me a row of trees near the town which he said his father had +planted, and which, therefore, he never could look at but with emotion, +though he passed them often as he went backwards and forwards on his +little journeys to and from his birthplace. His father, he added, +had once been a rich man, but had expended all his fortune to support +one son. Unfortunately for himself as well as his family, his +father had gone to America and left the rest of his children poor, notwithstanding +which, his memory was still dear to him, and he was always affected +by the sight of these trees.<br> +<br> +Tideswell consists of two rows of low houses, built of rough grey stone. +My guide, immediately on our entrance into the place, bade me take notice +of the church, which was very handsome, and notwithstanding its age, +had still some pretensions to be considered as an edifice built in the +modern taste.<br> +<br> +He now asked me whether he should show me to a great inn or to a cheap +one, and as I preferred the latter, he went with me himself to a small +public-house, and very particularly recommended me to their care as +his fellow-traveller, and a clever man not without learning.<br> +<br> +The people here also endeavoured to accommodate me most magnificently, +and for this purpose gave me some toasted cheese, which was Cheshire +cheese roasted and half melted at the fire. This, in England it +seems, is reckoned good eating, but, unfortunately for me, I could not +touch a bit of it; I therefore invited my landlord to partake of it, +and he indeed seemed to feast on it. As I neither drank brandy +nor ale, he told me I lived far too sparingly for a foot traveller; +he wondered how I had strength to walk so well and so far.<br> +<br> +I avail myself of this opportunity to observe that the English innkeepers +are in general great ale drinkers, and for this reason most of them +are gross and corpulent; in particular they are plump and rosy in their +faces. I once heard it said of one of them, that the extravasated +claret in his phiz might well remind one, as Falstaff says of Bardolph, +of hell-fire.<br> +<br> +The next morning my landlady did me the honour to drink coffee with +me, but helped me very sparingly to milk and sugar. It was Sunday, +and I went with my landlord to a barber, on whose shop was written “Shaving +for a penny.” There were a great many inhabitants assembled +there, who took me for a gentleman, on account, I suppose, of my hat, +which I had bought in London for a guinea, and which they all admired. +I considered this as a proof that pomp and finery had not yet become +general thus far from London.<br> +<br> +You frequently find in England, at many of the houses of the common +people, printed papers, with sundry apt and good moral maxims and rules +fastened against the room door, just as we find them in Germany. +On such wretched paper some of the most delightful and the finest sentiments +may be read, such as would do honour to any writer of any country.<br> +<br> +For instance, I read among other things this golden rule on such an +ordinary printed paper stuck against a room door, “Make no comparisons;” +and if you consider how many quarrels, and how much mischief arise in +the world from odious comparisons of the merits of one with the merits +of another, the most delightful lessons of morality are contained in +the few words of the above-mentioned rule.<br> +<br> +A man to whom I gave sixpence conducted me out of the town to the road +leading to Castleton, which was close to a wall of stones confusedly +heaped one upon another, as I have before described. The whole +country was hilly and rough, and the ground covered with brown heath. +Here and there some sheep were feeding.<br> +<br> +I made a little digression to a hill to the left, where I had a prospect +awfully beautiful, composed almost entirely of naked rocks, far and +near, among which, those that were entirely covered with black heath +made a most tremendous appearance.<br> +<br> +I was now a hundred and seventy miles from London, when I ascended one +of the highest hills, and all at once perceived a beautiful vale below +me, which was traversed by rivers and brooks and enclosed on all sides +by hills. In this vale lay Castleton, a small town with low houses, +which takes its name from an old castle, whose ruins are still to be +seen here.<br> +<br> +A narrow path, which wound itself down the side of the rock, led me +through the vale into the street of Castleton, where I soon found an +inn, and also soon dined. After dinner I made the best of my way +to the cavern.<br> +<br> +A little rivulet, which runs through the middle of the town, led me +to its entrance.<br> +<br> +I stood here a few moments, full of wonder and astonishment at the amazing +height of the steep rock before me, covered on each side with ivy and +other shrubs. At its summit are the decayed wall and towers of +an ancient castle which formerly stood on this rock, and at its foot +the monstrous aperture or mouth to the entrance of the cavern, where +it is pitch dark when one looks down even at mid-day.<br> +<br> +As I was standing here full of admiration, I perceived, at the entrance +of the cavern, a man of a rude and rough appearance, who asked me if +I wished to see the Peak, and the echo strongly reverberated his coarse +voice.<br> +<br> +Answering as I did in the affirmative, he next further asked me if I +should want to be carried to the other side of the stream, telling me +at the same time what the sum would be which I must pay for it.<br> +<br> +This man had, along with his black stringy hair and his dirty and tattered +clothes, such a singularly wild and infernal look, that he actually +struck me as a real Charon. His voice, and the questions he asked +me, were not of a kind to remove this notion, so that, far from its +requiring any effort of imagination, I found it not easy to avoid believing +that, at length, I had actually reached Avernus, was about to cross +Acheron, and to be ferried by Charon.<br> +<br> +I had no sooner agreed to his demand, than he told me all I had to do +was boldly to follow him, and thus we entered the cavern.<br> +<br> +To the left, in the entrance of the cavern, lay the trunk of a tree +that had been cut down, on which several of the boys of the town were +playing.<br> +<br> +Our way seemed to be altogether on a descent, though not steep, so that +the light which came in at the mouth of the cavern near the entrance +gradually forsook us, and when we had gone forward a few steps farther, +I was astonished by a sight which, of all other, I here the least expected. +I perceived to the right, in the hollow of the cavern, a whole subterranean +village, where the inhabitants, on account of its being Sunday, were +resting from their work, and with happy and cheerful looks were sitting +at the doors of their huts along with their children.<br> +<br> +We had scarcely passed these small subterranean houses when I perceived +a number of large wheels, on which on week days these human moles, the +inhabitants of the cavern, make ropes.<br> +<br> +I fancied I here saw the wheel of Ixion, and the incessant labour of +the Danaides.<br> +<br> +The opening through which the light came seemed, as we descended, every +moment to become less and less, and the darkness at every step to increase, +till at length only a few rays appeared, as if darting through a crevice, +and just tinging the small clouds of smoke which, at dusk, raised themselves +to the mouth of the cavern.<br> +<br> +This gradual growth, or increase of darkness, awakens in a contemplative +mind a soft melancholy. As you go down the gentle descent of the +cavern, you can hardly help fancying the moment is come when, without +pain or grief, the thread of life is about to be snapped; and that you +are now going thus quietly to that land of peace where trouble is no +more.<br> +<br> +At length the great cavern in the rock closed itself, in the same manner +as heaven and earth seem to join each other, when we came to a little +door, where an old woman came out of one of the huts, and brought two +candles, of which we each took one.<br> +<br> +My guide now opened the door, which completely shut out the faint glimmering +of light, which, till then, it was still possible to perceive, and led +us to the inmost centre of this dreary temple of old Chaos and Night, +as if, till now, we had only been traversing the outer courts. +The rock was here so low, that we were obliged to stoop very much for +some few steps in order to get through; but how great was my astonishment, +when we had passed this narrow passage and again stood upright, at once +to perceive, as well as the feeble light of our candles would permit, +the amazing length, breadth, and height of the cavern; compared to which +the monstrous opening through which we had already passed was nothing!<br> +<br> +After we had wandered here more than an hour, as beneath a dark and +dusky sky, on a level, sandy soil, the rock gradually lowered itself, +and we suddenly found ourselves on the edge of a broad river, which, +from the glimmering of our candles amid the total darkness, suggested +sundry interesting reflections. To the side of this river a small +boat was moored, with some straw in its bottom. Into this boat +my guide desired me to step, and lay myself down in it quite flat; because, +as he said, towards the middle of the river, the rock would almost touch +the water.<br> +<br> +When I had laid myself down as directed, he himself jumped into the +water, and drew the boat after him.<br> +<br> +All around us was one still, solemn, and deadly silence; and as the +boat advanced, the rock seemed to stoop, and come nearer and nearer +to us, till at length it nearly touched my face; and as I lay, I could +hardly hold the candle upright. I seemed to myself to be in a +coffin rather than in a boat, as I had no room to stir hand or foot +till we had passed this frightful strait, and the rock rose again on +the other side, where my guide once more handed me ashore.<br> +<br> +The cavern was now become, all at once, broad and high: and then suddenly +it was again low and narrow.<br> +<br> +I observed on both sides as we passed along a prodigious number of great +and small petrified plants and animals, which, however, we could not +examine, unless we had been disposed to spend some days in the cavern.<br> +<br> +And thus we arrived at the opposite side, at the second river or stream, +which, however, was not so broad as the first, as one may see across +it to the other side; across this stream my guide carried me on his +shoulders, because there was here no boat to carry us over.<br> +<br> +From thence we only went a few steps farther, when we came to a very +small piece of water which extended itself lengthways, and led us to +the end of the cavern.<br> +<br> +The path along the edge of this water was wet and slippery, and sometimes +so very narrow, that one can hardly set one foot before the other.<br> +<br> +Notwithstanding, I wandered with pleasure on this subterranean shore, +and was regaling myself with the interesting contemplation of all these +various wonderful objects, in this land of darkness and shadow of death, +when, all at once, something like music at a distance sounded in mine +ears.<br> +<br> +I instantly stopped, full of astonishment, and eagerly asked my guide +what this might mean? He answered, “Only have patience, +and you shall soon see.”<br> +<br> +But as we advanced, the sounds of harmony seemed to die away; the noise +became weaker and weaker; and at length it seemed to sink into a gentle +hissing or hum, like distant drops of falling rain.<br> +<br> +And how great was my amazement when, ere long, I actually saw and felt +a violent shower of rain falling from the rock, as from a thick cloud, +whose drops, which now fell on our candles, had caused that same melancholy +sound which I had heard at a distance.<br> +<br> +This was what is here called a mizzling rain, which fell from the ceiling +or roof of the cavern, through the veins of the rock.<br> +<br> +We did not dare to approach too near with our candles, as they might +easily have been extinguished by the falling drops; and so we perhaps +have been forced to seek our way back in vain.<br> +<br> +We continued our march therefore along the side of the water, and often +saw on the sides large apertures in the rock, which seemed to be new +or subordinate caverns, all which we passed without looking into. +At length my guide prepared me for one of the finest sights we had yet +seen, which we should now soon behold.<br> +<br> +And we had hardly gone on a few paces, when we entered what might easily +have been taken for a majestic temple, with lofty arches, supported +by beautiful pillars, formed by the plastic hand of some ingenious artist.<br> +<br> +This subterranean temple, in the structure of which no human hand had +borne a part, appeared to me at that moment to surpass all the most +stupendous buildings in the world, in point of regularity, magnificence, +and beauty.<br> +<br> +Full of admiration and reverence, here, even in the inmost recesses +of nature, I saw the majesty of the Creator displayed; and before I +quitted this temple, here, in this solemn silence and holy gloom, I +thought it would be a becoming act of true religion to adore, as I cordially +did, the God of nature.<br> +<br> +We now drew near the end of our journey. Our faithful companion, +the water, guided us through the remainder of the cavern, where the +rock is arched for the last time, and then sinks till it touches the +water, which here forms a semicircle, and thus the cavern closes, so +that no mortal can go one step farther.<br> +<br> +My guide here again jumped into the water, swam a little way under the +rock, and then came back quite wet, to show me that it was impossible +to go any further, unless this rock could be blown up with powder, and +a second cavern opened. I now thought all we had to do was to +return the nearest way; but there were new difficulties still to encounter, +and new scenes to behold still more beautiful than any I had yet seen.<br> +<br> +My guide now turned and went back towards the left, where I followed +him through a large opening in the rock.<br> +<br> +And here he first asked me if I could determine to creep a considerable +distance through the rock, where it nearly touched the ground. +Having consented to do so, he told me I had only to follow him, warning +me at the same time to take great care of my candle.<br> +<br> +Thus we crept on our hands and feet, on the wet and muddy ground, through +the opening in the rock, which was often scarcely large enough for us +to get through with our bodies.<br> +<br> +When at length we had got through this troublesome passage, I saw in +the cavern a steep hill, which was so high that it seemed to lose itself +as in a cloud, in the summit of the rock.<br> +<br> +This hill was so wet and slippery, that as soon as I attempted to ascend, +I fell down. My guide, however, took hold of my hand and told +me I had only resolutely to follow him.<br> +<br> +We now ascended such an amazing height, and there were such precipices +on each side, that it makes me giddy even now when I think of it.<br> +<br> +When we at length had gained the summit, where the hill seemed to lose +itself in the rock, my guide placed me where I could stand firm, and +told me to stay there quietly. In the meantime he himself went +down the hill with his candle, and left me alone.<br> +<br> +I lost sight of him for some moments, but at length I perceived, not +him, indeed, but his candle, quite in the bottom, from whence it seemed +to shine like a bright and twinkling star.<br> +<br> +After I had enjoyed this indescribably beautiful sight for some time, +my guide came back, and carried me safely down the hill again on his +shoulders. And as I now stood below, he went up and let his candle +shine again through an opening of the rock, while I covered mine with +my hand; and it was now as if on a dark night a bright star shone down +upon me, a sight which, in point of beauty, far surpassed all that I +had ever seen.<br> +<br> +Our journey was now ended, and we returned, not without trouble and +difficulty, through the narrow passage. We again entered the temple +we had a short time before left; again heard the pattering of the rain, +which sounded as rain when we were near it, but which at a distance +seemed a sonorous, dull, and melancholy hum; and now again we returned +across the quiet streams through the capacious entrance of the cavern +to the little door, where we had before taken our leave of daylight, +which, after so long a darkness, we now again hailed with joy.<br> +<br> +Before my guide opened the door, he told me I should now have a view +of a sight that would surpass all the foregoing. I found that +he was in the right, for when he had only half opened the door, it really +seemed as if I was looking into Elysium.<br> +<br> +The day seemed to be gradually breaking, and night and darkness to have +vanished. At a distance you again just saw the smoke of the cottages, +and then the cottages themselves; and as we ascended we saw the boys +still playing around the hewn trunk, till at length the reddish purple +stripes in the sky faintly appeared through the mouth of the hole; yet, +just as we came out, the sun was setting in the west.<br> +<br> +Thus had I spent nearly the whole afternoon till it was quite evening +in the cavern; and when I looked at myself, I was, as to my dress, not +much unlike my guide; my shoes scarcely hung to my feet, they were so +soft and so torn by walking so long on the damp sand, and the hard pointed +stones.<br> +<br> +I paid no more than half-a-crown for seeing all that I had seen, with +a trifle to my guide; for it seems he does not get the half-crown, but +is obliged to account for it to his master, who lives very comfortably +on the revenue he derives from this cavern, and is able to keep a man +to show it to strangers.<br> +<br> +When I came home I sent for a shoemaker. There was one who lived +just opposite; and he immediately came to examine my shoes. He +told me he could not sufficiently wonder at the badness of the work, +for they were shoes I had brought from Germany. Notwithstanding +this, he undertook, as he had no new ones ready, to mend them for me +as well as he could. This led me to make a very agreeable acquaintance +with this shoemaker; for when I expressed to him my admiration of the +cavern, it pleased him greatly that in so insignificant a place as Castleton +there should be anything which could inspire people with astonishment, +who came from such distant countries; and thereupon offered to take +a walk with me, to show me, at no great distance, the famous mountain +called Mam Tor, which is reckoned among the things of most note in Derbyshire.<br> +<br> +This mountain is covered with verdure on its summit and sides; but at +the end it is a steep precipice. The middle part does not, like +other mountains, consist of rock, but of a loose earth, which gives +way, and either rolls from the top of the precipice in little pieces, +or tears itself loose in large masses, and falls with a thundering crash, +thus forming a hill on its side which is continually increasing.<br> +<br> +From these circumstances probably is derived the name of Mam Tor, which +literally signifies Mother Hill; for Tor is either an abbreviation of, +or the old word for, Tower, and means not only a lofty building, but +any eminence. Mam is a familiar term, that obtains in all languages, +for Mother; and this mountain, like a mother, produces several other +small hills.<br> +<br> +The inhabitants here have a superstitious notion that this mountain, +notwithstanding its daily loss, never decreases, but always keeps its +own, and remains the same.<br> +<br> +My companion told me a shocking history of an inhabitant of Castleton +who laid a wager that he would ascend this steep precipice.<br> +<br> +As the lower part is not quite so steep, but rather slanting upwards, +he could get good hold in this soft loose earth, and clambered up, without +looking round. At length he had gained more than half the ascent, +and was just at the part where it projects and overlooks its basis. +From this astonishing height the unfortunate man cast down his eyes, +whilst the threatening point of the rock hung over him, with tottering +masses of earth.<br> +<br> +He trembled all over, and was just going to relinquish his hold, not +daring to move backwards or forwards; in this manner he hung for some +time between heaven and earth, surrounded by despair. However, +his sinews would bear it no longer, and therefore, in an effort of despair, +he once more collected all his strength and got hold of first one loose +stone, and then another, all of which would have failed him had he not +immediately caught hold of another. By these means, however, at +length, to his own, as well as to the astonishment of all the spectators, +he avoided almost instant and certain death, safely gained the summit +of the hill, and won his wager.<br> +<br> +I trembled as I heard this relation, seeing the mountain and the precipice +in question so near to me, I could not help figuring to myself the man +clambering up it.<br> +<br> +Not far from hence is Elden Hole, a cavity or pit, or hole in the earth, +of such a monstrous depth, that if you throw in a pebble stone, and +lay your ear to the edge of the hole, you hear it falling for a long +time.<br> +<br> +As soon as it comes to the bottom it emits a sound as if some one were +uttering a loud sigh. The first noise it makes on its being first +parted with affects the ear like a subterranean thunder. This +rumbling or thundering noise continues for some time, and then decreases +as the stone falls against first one hard rock and then another at a +greater and a greater depth, and at length, when it has for some time +been falling, the noise stops with a kind of whizzing or a hissing murmur. +The people have also a world of superstitious stories relating to this +place, one of which is that some person once threw into it a goose, +which appeared again at two miles’ distance in the great cavern +I have already mentioned, quite stripped of its feathers. But +I will not stuff my letters with many of these fabulous histories.<br> +<br> +They reckon that they have in Derbyshire seven wonders of nature, of +which this Elden Hole, the hill of Mam Tor, and the great cavern I have +been at are the principal.<br> +<br> +The remaining four wonders are Pool’s Hole, which has some resemblance +to this that I have seen, as I am told, for I did not see it; next St. +Anne’s Well, where there are two springs which rise close to each +other, the one of which is boiling hot, the other as cold as ice; the +next is Tide’s Well, not far from the town of that name through +which I passed. It is a spring or well, which in general flows +or runs underground imperceptibly, and then all at once rushes forth +with a mighty rumbling or subterranean noise, which is said to have +something musical in it, and overflows its banks; lastly Chatsworth, +a palace or seat belonging to the Dukes of Devonshire, at the foot of +a mountain whose summit is covered with eternal snow, and therefore +always gives one the idea of winter, at the same time that the most +delightful spring blooms at its foot. I can give you no further +description of these latter wonders, as I only know them by the account +given me by others. They were the subjects with which my guide, +the shoemaker, entertained me during our walk.<br> +<br> +While this man was showing me everything within his knowledge that he +thought most interesting, he often expressed his admiration on thinking +how much of the world I had already seen; and the idea excited in him +so lively a desire to travel, that I had much to do to reason him out +of it. He could not help talking of it the whole evening, and +again and again protested that, had he not got a wife and child, he +would set off in the morning at daybreak along with me; for here in +Castleton there is but little to be earned by the hardest labour or +even genius. Provisions are not cheap, and in short, there is +no scope for exertion. This honest man was not yet thirty.<br> +<br> +As we returned, he wished yet to show me the lead mines, but it was +too late. Yet, late as it was, he mended my shoes the same evening, +and I must do him the justice to add in a very masterly manner.<br> +<br> +But I am sorry to tell you I have brought a cough from the cavern that +does not at all please me; indeed, it occasions me no little pain, which +makes me suppose that one must needs breathe a very unwholesome damp +air in this cavern. But then, were that the case, I do not comprehend +how my friend Charon should have held it out so long and so well as +he has.<br> +<br> +This morning I was up very early in order to view the ruins, and to +climb a high hill alongside of them. The ruins are directly over +the mouth of the hole on the hill, which extends itself some distance +over the cavern beyond the ruins, and always widens, though here in +front it is so narrow that the building takes up the whole.<br> +<br> +From the ruins all around there is nothing but steep rock, so that there +is no access to it but from the town, where a crooked path from the +foot of the hill is hewn in the rock, but is also prodigiously steep.<br> +<br> +The spot on which the ruins stand is now all overgrown with nettles +and thistles. Formerly, it is said, there was a bridge from this +mountain to the opposite one, of which one may yet discover some traces, +as in the vale which divides the two rocks we still find the remains +of some of the arches on which the bridge rested. This vale, which +lies at the back of the ruins and probably over the cavern, is called +the Cave’s Way, and is one of the greatest thoroughfares to the +town. In the part at which, at some distance, it begins to descend +between these two mountains, its descent is so gentle that one is not +at all tired in going down it; but if you should happen to miss the +way between the two rocks and continue on the heights, you are in great +danger of falling from the rock, which every moment becomes steeper +and steeper.<br> +<br> +The mountain on which the ruins stand is everywhere rocky. The +one on the left of it, which is separated by the vale, is perfectly +verdant and fertile, and on its summit the pasture hands are divided +by stones, piled up in the form of a wall. This green mountain +is at least three times as high as that on which the ruins stand.<br> +<br> +I began to clamber up the green mountain, which is also pretty steep; +and when I had got more than half way up without having once looked +back, I was nearly in the same situation as the adventurer who clambered +up Mam Tor Hill, for when I looked round, I found my eye had not been +trained to view, unmoved, so prodigious a height. Castleton with +the surrounding country lay below me like a map, the roofs of the houses +seemed almost close to the ground, and the mountain with the ruins itself +seemed to be lying at my feet.<br> +<br> +I grew giddy at the prospect, and it required all my reason to convince +me that I was in no danger, and that, at all events, I could only scramble +down the green turf in the same manner as I had got up. At length +I seemed to grow accustomed to this view till it really gave me pleasure, +and I now climbed quite to the summit and walked over the meadows, and +at length reached the way which gradually descends between the two mountains.<br> +<br> +At the top of the green mountain I met with some neat country girls, +who were milking their cows, and coming this same way with their milk-pails +on their heads.<br> +<br> +This little rural party formed a beautiful group when some of them with +their milk-pails took shelter, as it began to rain, under a part of +the rock, beneath which they sat down on natural stone benches, and +there, with pastoral innocence and glee, talked and laughed till the +shower was over.<br> +<br> +My way led me into the town, from whence I now write, and which I intend +leaving in order to begin my journey back to London, but I think I shall +not now pursue quite the same road.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER XII.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +Northampton.<br> +<br> +When I took my leave of the honest shoemaker in Castleton, who would +have rejoiced to have accompanied me, I resolved to return, not by Tideswell, +but by Wardlow, which is nearer.<br> +<br> +I there found but one single inn, and in it only a landlady, who told +me that her husband was at work in the lead mines, and that the cavern +at Castleton, and all that I had yet seen, was nothing to be compared +to these lead mines. Her husband, she said, would be happy to +show them to me.<br> +<br> +When I came to offer to pay her for my dinner she made some difficulty +about it, because, as I had neither drank ale or brandy, by the selling +of which she chiefly made her livelihood, she said she could not well +make out my bill. On this I called for a mug of ale (which I did +not drink) in order to enable me the better to settle her reckoning.<br> +<br> +At this same time I saw my innkeeper of Tideswell, who, however, had +not, like me, come on foot, but prancing proudly on horseback.<br> +<br> +As I proceeded, and saw the hills rise before me, which were still fresh +in my memory, having so recently become acquainted with them in my journey +thither, I was just reading the passage in Milton relative to the creation, +in which the Angel describes to Adam how the water subsided, and<br> +<br> +<br> +“Immediately the mountains huge appear<br> +Emergent, and their broad bare backs upheave<br> +Into the clouds, their tops ascend the sky.”<br> +<i>Book VII., </i>1. 285.<br> +<br> +<br> +It seemed to me, while reading this passage, as if everything around +me were in the act of creating, and the mountains themselves appeared +to emerge or rise, so animated was the scene.<br> +<br> +I had felt something not very unlike this on my journey hither, as I +was sitting opposite to a hill, whose top was covered with trees, and +was reading in Milton the sublime description of the combat of the angels, +where the fallen angels are made, with but little regard to chronology, +to attack their antagonists with artillery and cannon, as if it had +been a battle on earth of the present age. The better angels, +however, defend themselves against their antagonists by each seizing +on some hill by the tufts on its summit, tearing them up by the root, +and thus bearing them in their hands to fling them at their enemy:<br> +<br> +<br> +“ - they ran, they flew,<br> +From their foundation loos’ning to and fro,<br> +They pluck’d the seated hills with all their load,<br> +Rocks, waters, woods, and by the shaggy tops<br> +Uplifting bore them in their hands - .”<br> +Book <i>VI., </i>1. 642.<br> +<br> +<br> +I seemed to fancy to myself that I actually saw an angel there standing +and plucking up a hill before me and shaking it in the air.<br> +<br> +When I came to the last village before I got to Matlock, as it was now +evening and dark, I determined to spend the night there, and inquired +for an inn, which, I was told, was at the end of the village; and so +on I walked, and kept walking till near midnight before I found this +same inn. The place seemed to have no end. On my journey +to Castleton I must either not have passed through this village or not +have noticed its length. Much tired, and not a little indisposed, +I at length arrived at the inn, where I sat myself down by the fire +in the kitchen, and asked for something to eat. As they told me +I could not have a bed here, I replied I absolutely would not be driven +away, for that if nothing better could be had I would sit all night +by the fire. This I actually prepared to do, and laid my head +on the table in order to sleep.<br> +<br> +When the people in the kitchen thought that I was asleep, I heard them +taking about me, and guessing who or what I might be. One woman +alone seemed to take my part, and said, “I daresay he is a well-bred +gentleman;” another scouted that notion, merely because, as she +said, “I had come on foot;” and “depend on it,” +said she, “he is some poor travelling creature!” My +ears yet ring with the contemptuous tone with which she uttered, “poor +travelling creature!” It seems to express all the wretchedness +of one who neither has house nor home - a vagabond and outcast of society.<br> +<br> +At last, when these unfeeling people saw that I was determined, at all +events, to stay there all night, they gave me a bed, but not till I +had long given up all hopes of getting one. And in the morning, +when they asked me a shilling for it, I gave them half-a-crown, adding, +with something of an air, that I would have no change. This I +did, though perhaps foolishly, to show them that I was not quite “<i>a +poor creature</i>.” And now they took leave of me with great +civility and many excuses; and I now continued my journey much at my +ease.<br> +<br> +When I had passed Matlock I did not go again towards Derby, but took +the road to the left towards Nottingham. Here the hills gradually +disappeared; and my journey now lay through meadow grounds and cultivated +fields.<br> +<br> +I must here inform you that the word <i>Peake, </i>or <i>Pike, </i>in +old English signifies a point or summit. The <i>Peak </i>of Derbyshire, +therefore, means that part of the country which is hilly, or where the +mountains are highest.<br> +<br> +Towards noon I again came to an eminence, where I found but one single +solitary inn, which had a singular inscription on its sign. It +was in rhyme, and I remember only that it ended with these words, “Refresh, +and then go on.” “Entertainment for man and horse.” +This I have seen on several signs, but the most common, at all the lesser +ale-houses, is, “A. B. C. or D. dealer in foreign spirituous liquors.”<br> +<br> +I dined here on cold meat and salad. This, or else eggs and salad, +was my usual supper, and my dinner too, at the inns at which I stopped. +It was but seldom that I had the good fortune to get anything hot. +The salad, for which they brought me all the ingredients, I was always +obliged to dress myself. This, I believe, is always done in England.<br> +<br> +The road was now tolerably pleasant, but the country seemed here to +be uniform and unvaried, even to dulness. However, it was a very +fine evening, and as I passed through a village just before sunset several +people who met me accosted me with a phrase which, at first, I thought +odd, but which I now think civil, if not polite. As if I could +possibly want information on such a point as they passed me, they all +very courteously told me, “’Twas a fine evening,” +or “A pleasant night.”<br> +<br> +I have also often met people who as they passed me obligingly and kindly +asked: “How do you do?” To which unexpected question +from total strangers I have now learned to answer, “Pretty well, +I thank you; how do you do?” This manner of address must +needs appear very singular to a foreigner, who is all at once asked +by a person whom he has never seen before how he does.<br> +<br> +After I had passed through this village I came to a green field, at +the side of which I met with an ale-house. The mistress was sitting +at the window. I asked her if I could stay the night there. +She said No!” and shut the window in my face.<br> +<br> +This unmannerliness recalled to my recollection the many receptions +of this kind to which I have now so often been exposed, and I could +not forbear uttering aloud my indignation at the inhospitality of the +English. This harsh sentiment I soon corrected, however, as I +walked on, by recollecting, and placing in the opposite scale, the unbounded +and unequalled generosity of this nation, and also the many acts of +real and substantial kindness which I had myself experienced in it.<br> +<br> +I at last came to another inn, where there was written on the sign: +“The Navigation Inn,” because it is the depot, or storehouse, +of the colliers of the Trent.<br> +<br> +A rougher or ruder kind of people I never saw than these colliers, whom +I here met assembled in the kitchen, and in whose company I was obliged +to spend the evening.<br> +<br> +Their language, their dress, their manners were, all of them, singularly +vulgar and disagreeable, and their expressions still more so, for they +hardly spoke a word, without adding “a G-d d-- me” to it, +and thus cursing, quarrelling, drinking, singing, and fighting, they +seemed to be pleased, and to enjoy the evening. I must do them +the justice to add, that none of them, however, at all molested me or +did me any harm. On the contrary, every one again and again drank +my health, and I took care not to forget to drink theirs in return. +The treatment of my host at Matlock was still fresh in my memory, and +so, as often as I drank, I never omitted saying, “Your healths, +gentlemen all!”<br> +<br> +When two Englishmen quarrel, the fray is carried on, and decided, rather +by actions than by words; though loud and boisterous, they do not say +much, and frequently repeat the same thing over and over again, always +clinching it with an additional “G-- d-- you!” Their +anger seems to overpower their utterance, and can vent only by coming +to blows.<br> +<br> +The landlady, who sat in the kitchen along with all this goodly company, +was nevertheless well dressed, and a remarkably well-looking woman. +As soon as I had supped I hastened to bed, but could not sleep; my quondam +companions, the colliers, made such a noise the whole night through. +In the morning, when I got up, there was not cue to be seen nor heard.<br> +<br> +I was now only a few miles from Nottingham, where I arrived towards +noon.<br> +<br> +This, of all the towns I have yet seen, except London, seemed to me +to be one of the best, and is undoubtedly the cleanest. Everything +here wore a modern appearance, and a large place in the centre, scarcely +yielded to a London square in point of beauty.<br> +<br> +From the town a charming footpath leads you across the meadows to the +high-road, where there is a bridge over the Trent. Not far from +this bridge was an inn, where I dined, though I could get nothing but +bread-and-butter, of which I desired to have a toast made.<br> +<br> +Nottingham lies high, and made a beautiful appearance at a distance, +with its neat high houses, red roofs, and its lofty steeples. +I have not seen so fine a prospect in any other town in England.<br> +<br> +I now came through several villages, as Ruddington, Bradmore, and Buny, +to Castol, where I stayed all night.<br> +<br> +This whole afternoon I heard the ringing of bells in many of the villages. +Probably it is some holiday which they thus celebrate. It was +cloudy weather, and I felt myself not at all well, and in these circumstances +this ringing discomposed me still more, and made me at length quite +low-spirited and melancholy.<br> +<br> +At Castol there were three inns close to each other, in which, to judge +only from the outside of the houses, little but poverty was to be expected. +In the one at which I at length stopped there was only a landlady, a +sick butcher, and a sick carter, both of whom had come to stay the night. +This assemblage of sick persons gave me the idea of an hospital, and +depressed me still more. I felt some degree of fever, was very +restless all night, and so I kept my bed very late the next morning, +until the woman of the house came and aroused me by saying she had been +uneasy on my account. And now I formed the resolution to go to +Leicester in the post-coach.<br> +<br> +I was now only four miles from Loughborough, a small, and I think, not +a very handsome town, where I arrived late at noon, and dined at the +last inn on the road that leads to Leicester. Here again, far +beyond expectation, the people treated me like a gentleman, and let +me dine in the parlour.<br> +<br> +From Loughborough to Leicester was only ten miles, but the road was +sandy and very unpleasant walking.<br> +<br> +I came through a village called Mountsorrel, which perhaps takes its +name from a little hill at the end of it. As for the rest, it +was all one large plain, all the way to Leicester.<br> +<br> +Towards evening I came to a pleasant meadow just before I got to Leicester, +through which a footpath led me to the town, which made a good appearance +as I viewed it lengthways, and indeed much larger than it really is.<br> +<br> +I went up a long street before I got to the house from which the post-coaches +set out, and which is also an inn. I here learnt that the stage +was to set out that evening for London, but that the inside was already +full; some places were, however, still left on the outside.<br> +<br> +Being obliged to bestir myself to get back to London, as the time drew +near when the Hamburg captain, with whom I intend to return, had fixed +his departure, I determined to take a place as far as Northampton on +the outside.<br> +<br> +But this ride from Leicester to Northampton I shall remember as long +as I live.<br> +<br> +The coach drove from the yard through a part of the house. The +inside passengers got in in the yard, but we on the outside were obliged +to clamber up in the public street, because we should have had no room +for our heads to pass under the gateway.<br> +<br> +My companions on the top of the coach were a farmer, a young man very +decently dressed, and a blackamoor.<br> +<br> +The getting up alone was at the risk of one’s life, and when I +was up I was obliged to sit just at the corner of the coach, with nothing +to hold by but a sort of little handle fastened on the side. I +sat nearest the wheel, and the moment that we set off I fancied that +I saw certain death await me. All I could do was to take still +safer hold of the handle, and to be more and more careful to preserve +my balance.<br> +<br> +The machine now rolled along with prodigious rapidity, over the stones +through the town, and every moment we seemed to fly into the air, so +that it was almost a miracle that we still stuck to the coach and did +not fall. We seemed to be thus on the wing, and to fly, as often +as we passed through a village, or went down a hill.<br> +<br> +At last the being continually in fear of my life became insupportable, +and as we were going up a hill, and consequently proceeding rather slower +than usual, I crept from the top of the coach and got snug into the +basket.<br> +<br> +“O, sir, sir, you will be shaken to death!” said the black, +but I flattered myself he exaggerated the unpleasantness of my post.<br> +<br> +As long as we went up hill it was easy and pleasant. And, having +had little or no sleep the night before, I was almost asleep among the +trunks and the packages; but how was the case altered when we came to +go down hill! then all the trunks and parcels began, as it were, to +dance around me, and everything in the basket seemed to be alive, and +I every moment received from them such violent blows that I thought +my last hour was come. I now found that what the black had told +me was no exaggeration, but all my complaints were useless. I +was obliged to suffer this torture nearly an hour, till we came to another +hill again, when quite shaken to pieces and sadly bruised, I again crept +to the top of the coach, and took possession of my former seat. +“Ah, did not I tell you that you would be shaken to death?” +said the black, as I was getting up, but I made him no reply. +Indeed, I was ashamed; and I now write this as a warning to all strangers +to stage-coaches who may happen to take it into their heads, without +being used to it, to take a place on the outside of an English post-coach, +and still more, a place in the basket.<br> +<br> +About midnight we arrived at Harborough, where I could only rest myself +a moment, before we were again called to set off, full drive, through +a number of villages, so that a few hours before daybreak we had reached +Northampton, which is, however, thirty-three miles from Leicester.<br> +<br> +From Harborough to Leicester I had a most dreadful journey, it rained +incessantly; and as before we had been covered with dust, we now were +soaked with rain. My neighbour, the young man who sat next me +in the middle, that my inconveniences might be complete, every now and +then fell asleep; and as, when asleep, he perpetually bolted and rolled +against me, with the whole weight of his body, more than once he was +very near pushing me entirely off my seat.<br> +<br> +We at last reached Northampton, where I immediately went to bed, and +have slept almost till noon. To-morrow morning I intend to continue +my journey to London in some other stage-coach.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER XIII.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +London, 15th <i>July, </i>1782.<br> +<br> +The journey from Northampton to London I can again hardly call a journey, +but rather a perpetual motion, or removal from one place to another, +in a close box; during your conveyance you may, perhaps, if you are +in luck, converse with two or three people shut up along with you.<br> +<br> +But I was not so fortunate, for my three travelling companions were +all farmers, who slept so soundly that even the hearty knocks of the +head with which they often saluted each other, did not awake them.<br> +<br> +Their faces, bloated and discoloured by their copious use of ale and +brandy, looked, as they lay before me, like so many lumps of dead flesh. +When now and then they woke, sheep, in which they all dealt, was the +first and last topic of their conversation. One of the three, +however, differed not a little from the other two; his face was sallow +and thin, his eyes quite sunk and hollow, his long, lank fingers hung +quite loose, and as if detached from his hands. He was, in short, +the picture of avarice and misanthropy. The former he certainly +was; for at every stage he refused to give the coachman the accustomed +perquisite, which every body else paid; and every farthing he was forced +to part with, forced a “G-d d--n” from his heart. +As he sat in the coach, he seemed anxious to shun the light; and so +shut up every window that he could come at, except when now and then +I opened them to take a slight view of the charms of the country through +which we seemed to be flying, rather than driving.<br> +<br> +Our road lay through Newport Pagnell, Dunstable, St. Albans, Barnet, +to Islington, or rather to London itself. But these names are +all I know of the different places.<br> +<br> +At Dunstable, if I do not mistake, we breakfasted; and here, as is usual, +everything was paid for in common by all the passengers; as I did not +know this, I ordered coffee separately; however, when it came, the three +farmers also drank of it, and gave me some of their tea.<br> +<br> +They asked me what part of the world I came from; whereas we in Germany +generally inquired what countryman a person is.<br> +<br> +When we had breakfasted, and were again seated in the coach, all the +farmers, the lean one excepted, seemed quite alive again, and now began +a conversation on religion and on politics.<br> +<br> +One of them brought the history of Samson on the carpet, which the clergyman +of his parish, he said, had lately explained, I dare say very satisfactorily; +though this honest farmer still had a great many doubts about the great +gate which Samson carried away, and about the foxes with the firebrands +between their tails. In other respects, however, the man seemed +not to be either uninformed or sceptical.<br> +<br> +They now proceeded to relate to each other various stories, chiefly +out of the Bible; not merely as important facts, but as interesting +narratives, which they would have told and listened to with equal satisfaction +had they met them anywhere else. One of them had only heard these +stories from his minister in the church, not being able to read them +himself.<br> +<br> +The one that sat next to him now began to talk about the Jews of the +Old Testament, and assured us that the present race were all descended +from those old ones. “Ay, and they are all damned to all +eternity!” said his companion, as coolly and as confidently as +if at that moment he had seen them burning in the bottomless pit.<br> +<br> +We now frequently took up fresh passengers, who only rode a short distance +with us, and then got out again. Among others was a woman from +London, whose business was the making of brandy. She entertained +us with a very circumstantial narrative of all the shocking scenes during +the late riot in that city. What particularly struck me was her +saying that she saw a man, opposite to her house, who was so furious, +that he stood on the wall of a house that was already half burnt down, +and there, like a demon, with his own hands pulled down and tossed about +the bricks which the fire had spared, till at length he was shot, and +fell back among the flames.<br> +<br> +At length we arrived at London without any accident, in a hard rain, +about one o’clock. I had been obliged to pay sixteen shillings +beforehand at Northampton, for the sixty miles to London. This +the coachman seemed not to know for certain, and therefore asked me +more earnestly if I was sure I had paid: I assured him I had, and he +took my word.<br> +<br> +I looked like a crazy creature when I arrived in London; notwithstanding +which, Mr. Pointer, with whom I left my trunk, received me in the most +friendly manner, and desired me during dinner to relate to him my adventures.<br> +<br> +The same evening I called on Mr. Leonhardi, who, as I did not wish to +hire a lodging for the few days I might be obliged to wait for a fair +wind, got me into the Freemasons’ Tavern. And here I have +been waiting these eight days, and the wind still continues contrary +for Hambro’; though I do now most heartily wish for a fair wind, +as I can no longer make any improvement by my stay, since I must keep +myself in constant readiness to embark whenever the wind changes; and +therefore I dare go no great distance.<br> +<br> +Everybody here is now full of the Marquis of Rockingham’s death, +and the change of the ministry in consequence of it. They are +much displeased that Fox has given up his seat; and yet it is singular, +they still are much concerned, and interest themselves for him, as if +whatever interested him were the interest of the nation. On Tuesday +there was a highly important debate in Parliament. Fox was called +on to assign the true reasons of his resignation before the nation. +At eleven o’clock the gallery was so full that nobody could get +a place, and the debates only began at three, and lasted this evening +till ten.<br> +<br> +About four Fox came. Every one was full of expectation. +He spoke at first with great vehemence, but it was observed that he +gradually became more and more moderate, and when at length he had vindicated +the step he had taken, and showed it to be, in every point of view, +just, wise, and honourable, he added, with great force and pathos, “and +now I stand here once more as poor as ever I was.” It was +impossible to hear such a speech and such declarations unmoved.<br> +<br> +General Conway then gave his reasons why he did not resign, though he +was of the same political principles as Mr. Fox and Mr. Burke; he was +of the same opinion with them in regard to the independency of America; +the more equal representation of the people in Parliament, and the regulations +necessary in Ireland; but he did not think the present minister, Lord +Shelburne, would act contrary to those principles. As soon as +he did, he should likewise resign, but not before.<br> +<br> +Burke now stood up and made a most elegant though florid speech, in +praise of the late Marquis of Rockingham. As he did not meet with +sufficient attention, and heard much talking and many murmurs, he said, +with much vehemence and a sense of injured merit, “This is not +treatment for so old a member of Parliament as I am, and I will be heard!” +- on which there was immediately a most profound silence. After +he had said much more in praise of Rockingham, he sub-joined, that with +regard to General Conway’s remaining in the ministry, it reminded +him of a fable he had heard in his youth, of a wolf, who, on having +clothed himself as a sheep, was let into the fold by a lamb, who indeed +did say to him, “Where did you get those long nails, and those +sharp teeth, mamma?” But nevertheless let him in; the consequence +of which was he murdered the whole flock. Now with respect to +General Conway, it appeared to him, just as though the lamb certainly +did perceive the nails and teeth of the wolf, but notwithstanding, was +so good-tempered to believe that the wolf would change his nature, and +become a lamb. By this, he did not mean to reflect on Lord Shelburne: +only of this he was certain, that the present administration was a thousand +times worse than that under Lord North (who was present).<br> +<br> +When I heard Mr. Pitt speak for the first time, I was astonished that +a man of so youthful an appearance should stand up at all; but I was +still more astonished to see how, while he spoke, he engaged universal +attention. He seems to me not to be more than one-and-twenty. +This same Pitt is now minister, and even Chancellor of the Exchequer.<br> +<br> +It is shocking to a foreigner, to see what violent satires on men, rather +than on things, daily appear in the newspapers, of which they tell me +there are at least a dozen, if not more, published every day. +Some of them side with the Ministry, and still more I think with the +Opposition. A paper that should be quite impartial, if that were +possible, I apprehend would be deemed so insipid as to find no readers. +No longer ago than yesterday, it was mentioned in one of these newspapers, +that when Fox, who is fallen, saw so young a man as Pitt made the minister, +he exclaimed with Satan, who, in “Paradise Lost,” on perceiving +the man approved by God, called out, “O hateful sight!”<br> +<br> +On Thursday the king went with the usual solemnity to prorogue the Parliament +for a stated time. But I pass this over as a matter that has already +been so often described.<br> +<br> +I have also, during this period, become acquainted with Baron Grothaus, +the famous walker, to whom I had also a letter of recommendation from +Baron Groote of Hambro’. He lives in Chesterfield House, +not far from General Paoli, to whom he has promised to introduce me, +if I have time to call on him again.<br> +<br> +I have suffered much this week from the violent cough I brought with +me from the hole in Derbyshire, so that I could not for some days stir; +during which time Messrs. Schonborn and Leonhardi have visited me very +attentively, and contributed much to my amendment.<br> +<br> +I have been obliged to relate as much about my journey out of London +here as I probably shall in Germany of all England in general. +To most people to whom I give an account of my journey, what I have +seen is quite new. I must, however, here insert a few remarks +on the elocution, or manner of speaking, of this country, which I had +forgot before to write to you.<br> +<br> +English eloquence appears to me not to be nearly so capable of so much +variety and diffusion as ours is. Add to this, in their Parliamentary +speeches, in sermons in the pulpit, in the dialogues on the stage; nay, +even in common conversation, their periods at the end of a sentence +are always accompanied by a certain singular uniform fall of the voice, +which, notwithstanding its monotony has in it something so peculiar, +and so difficult, that I defy any foreigner ever completely to acquire +it. Mr. Leonhardi in particular seemed to me, in some passages +which he repeated out of <i>Hamlet, </i>to have learnt to sink his voice +in the true English manner; yet any one might know from his speaking +that he is not an Englishman. The English place the accent oftener +on the adjectives than they do on the substantive, which, though undoubtedly +the most significant word in any sentence, has frequently less stress +laid on it than you hear laid on mere epithets. On the stage they +pronounce the syllables and words extremely distinct, so that at the +theatres you may always gain most instruction in English elocution and +pronunciation.<br> +<br> +This kingdom is remarkable for running into dialect: even in London +they are said to have one. They say, for example, “it a’nt” +instead of “it is not;” “I don’t know,” +for “I do not know;” “I don’t know him,” +for “I do not know him;” the latter of which phrases has +often deceived me, as I mistook a negative for an affirmative.<br> +<br> +The word “sir,” in English, has a great variety of significations. +With the appellation of “sir,” an Englishman addresses his +king, his friend, his foe, his servant, and his dog; he makes use of +it when asking a question politely; and a member of Parliament, merely +to fill up a vacancy, when he happens to be at a loss. “Sir?” +in an inquiring tone of voice, signifies what is your desire? +“Sir!” in a humble tone - gracious Sovereign! - “Sir!” +in surly tone, a box on the ear at your service! To a dog it means +a good beating. And in a speech in Parliament, accompanied by +a pause, it signifies, I cannot now recollect what it is I wish to say +farther.<br> +<br> +I do not recollect to have heard any expression repeated oftener than +this, “Never mind it!” A porter one day fell down, +and cut his head on the pavement: “O, never mind it!” said +an Englishman who happened to be passing by. When I had my trunk +fetched from the ship in a boat, the waterman rowed among the boats, +and his boy, who stood at the head of his boat, got a sound drubbing, +because the others would not let him pass: “O, never mind it!” +said the old one, and kept rowing on.<br> +<br> +The Germans who have been here any time almost constantly make use of +Anglicisms, such as “<i>es will nicht thun</i>” (it will +not do), instead of <i>es</i> <i>ist nicht hinlänglich </i>(it +is not sufficient), and many such. Nay, some even say, “<i>Ich +habe es nicht geminded</i>” (I did not mind it), instead of <i>ich +habe mich nicht daran errinnert, </i>oder <i>daran gedacht </i>(I did +not recollect it, or I did not think of it).<br> +<br> +You can immediately distinguish Englishmen when they speak German, by +their pronunciation according to the English manner; instead of <i>Ich +befinde mich wohl, </i>they say <i>Ich befirmich u’hol </i>(I +am very well), the <i>w </i>being as little noticed as <i>u</i> quickly +sounded.<br> +<br> +I have often heard, when directing any one in the street, the phrase, +“Go down the street as far as ever you can go, and ask anybody.” +Just as we say, “Every child can direct you.”<br> +<br> +I have already noticed in England they learn to write a much finer hand +than with us. This probably arises from their making use of only +one kind of writing, in which the letters are all so exact that you +would take it for print.<br> +<br> +In general, in speaking, reading, in their expressions, and in writing, +they seem, in England, to have more decided rules than we have. +The lowest man expresses himself in proper phrases, and he who publishes +a book, at least writes correctly, though the matter be ever so ordinary. +In point of style, when they write, they seem to be all of the same +country, profession, rank, and station.<br> +<br> +The printed English sermons are beyond all question the best in the +world; yet I have sometimes heard sad, miserable stuff from their pulpits. +I have been in some churches where the sermons seem to have been transcribed +or compiled from essays and pamphlets; and the motley composition, after +all, very badly put together. It is said that there are a few +in London, by whom some of the English clergy are supposed to get their +sermons made for money.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +CHAPTER XIV.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<i>London, </i>18th <i>July.<br> +<br> +</i>I write to you now for the last time from London; and, what is still +more, from St. Catherine’s, one of the most execrable holes in +all this great city, where I am obliged to stay, because the great ships +arrive in the Thames here, and go from hence, and we shall sail as soon +as the wind changes. This it has just now done, yet still it seems +we shall not sail till to-morrow. To-day therefore I can still +relate to you all the little that I have farther noticed.<br> +<br> +On Monday morning I moved from the Freemasons’ Tavern to a public-house +here, of which the master is a German; and where all the Hambro’ +captains lodge. At the Freemasons’ Tavern, the bill for +eight days’ lodging, breakfast, and dinner came to one guinea +and nine shillings and nine pence. Breakfast, dinner, and coffee +were always, with distinction, reckoned a shilling each. For my +lodging I paid only twelve shillings a week, which was certainly cheap +enough.<br> +<br> +At the German’s house in St. Catherine’s, on the contrary, +everything is more reasonable, and you here eat, drink, and lodge for +half-a-guinea a week. Notwithstanding, however, I would not advise +anybody who wishes to see London, to lodge here long; for St. Catherine's +is one of the most out-of-the-way and inconvenient places in the whole +town.<br> +<br> +He who lands here first sees this miserable, narrow, dirty street, and +this mass of ill-built, old, ruinous houses; and of course forms, at +first sight, no very favourable idea of this beautiful and renowned +city.<br> +<br> +From Bullstrode Street, or Cavendish Square, to St. Catherine’s, +is little less than half a day’s journey. Nevertheless, +Mr. Schonborn has daily visited me since I have lived here; and I have +always walked back half-way with him. This evening we took leave +of each other near St. Paul’s, and this separation cost me not +a few tears.<br> +<br> +I have had a very agreeable visit this afternoon from Mr. Hansen, one +of the assistants to the “Zollner book for all ranks of men” +who brought me a letter from the Rev. Mr. Zollner at Berlin, and just +arrived at London when I was going away. He is going on business +to Liverpool. I have these few days past, for want of better employment, +walked through several parts of London that I had not before seen. +Yesterday I endeavoured to reach the west end of the town; and I walked +several miles, when finding it was grown quite dark, I turned back quite +tired, without having accomplished my end.<br> +<br> +Nothing in London makes so disgusting an appearance to a foreigner, +as the butchers’ shops, especially in the environs of the Tower. +Guts and all the nastiness are thrown into the middle of the street, +and cause an insupportable stench.<br> +<br> +I have forgot to describe the ’Change to you; this beautiful building +is a long square in the centre of which is an open area, where the merchants +assemble. All round, there are covered walks supported by pillars +on which the name of the different commercial nations you may wish to +find are written up, that among the crowd of people you may be able +to find each other. There are also stone benches made under the +covered walks, which after a ramble from St. Catherine’s, for +example, hither, are very convenient to rest yourself.<br> +<br> +On the walls all kinds of handbills are stuck up. Among others +I read one of singular contents. A clergyman exhorted the people +not to assent to the shameful Act of Parliament for the toleration of +Catholics, by suffering their children to their eternal ruin to be instructed +and educated by them; but rather to give him, an orthodox clergyman +of the Church of England, this employ and this emolument.<br> +<br> +In the middle of the area is a stone statue of Charles the Second. +As I sat here on a bench, and gazed on the immense crowds that people +London, I thought that, as to mere dress and outward appearance, these +here did not seem to be materially different from our people at Berlin.<br> +<br> +Near the ’Change is a shop where, for a penny or even a halfpenny +only, you may read as many newspapers as you will. There are always +a number of people about these shops, who run over the paper as they +stand, pay their halfpenny, and then go on.<br> +<br> +Near the ’Change there is a little steeple with a set of bells +which have a charming tone, but they only chime one or two lively tunes, +though in this part of the City you constantly hear bells ringing in +your ears.<br> +<br> +It has struck me that in London there is no occasion for any elementary +works or prints, for the instruction of children. One need only +lead them into the City, and show them the things themselves as they +really are. For here it is contrived, as much as possible, to +place in view for the public inspection every production of art, and +every effort of industry. Paintings, mechanisms, curiosities of +all kinds, are here exhibited in the large and light shop windows, in +the most advantageous manner; nor are spectators wanting, who here and +there, in the middle of the street, stand still to observe any curious +performance. Such a street seemed to me to resemble a well regulated +cabinet of curiosities.<br> +<br> +But the squares, where the finest houses are, disdain and reject all +such shows and ornaments, which are adapted only to shopkeepers’ +houses. The squares, moreover, are not nearly so crowded or so +populous as the streets and the other parts of the city. There +is nearly as much difference between these squares and the Strand in +London, in point of population and bustle, as there is between Millbank +and Fredericksstadt in Berlin.<br> +<br> +I do not at present recollect anything further, my dear friend, worth +your attention, which I can now write to you, except that everything +is ready for our departure to-morrow. I paid Captain Hilkes, with +whom I came over from Hambro’, four guineas for my passage and +my board in the cabin. But Captain Braunschweig, with whom I am +to return, charges me five guineas; because provisions, he says, are +dearer in London than at Hambro’. I now have related to +you all my adventures and all my history from the time that I took leave +of you in the street, my voyage hither with Captain Hilkes excepted. +Of this, all that I think it necessary to mention is, that, to my great +dissatisfaction, it lasted a fortnight, and three days I was sea-sick. +Of my voyage back I will give you a personal account. And now +remember me to Biester, and farewell till I see you again.<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TRAVELS IN ENGLAND IN 1782 ***<br> +<pre> + +******This file should be named teng10h.htm or teng10h.zip****** +Corrected EDITIONS of our EBooks get a new NUMBER, teng11h.htm +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, teng10ah.htm + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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