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diff --git a/old/52442-0.txt b/old/52442-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 0e2972c..0000000 --- a/old/52442-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18300 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition Under the Command -of Captains Lewis and Clark, by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: History of the Expedition Under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark - Vol. II - -Author: Meriwether Lewis - William Clark - -Editor: Paul Allen - -Release Date: June 30, 2016 [EBook #52442] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION *** - - - - -Produced by Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, The Filson Historical -Society and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by the Library of Congress) - - - - - -Volume I is available as Project Gutenberg eBook #16565. - -Obvious typos have been corrected, but period and inconsistent spelling -left as is. - - - - - HISTORY - OF - THE EXPEDITION - UNDER THE COMMAND OF - CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK, - TO - THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI, - THENCE - ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - AND DOWN THE - RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. - - PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6. - - By order of the - GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. - - PREPARED FOR THE PRESS - BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE. - - VOL. II. - - _PHILADELPHIA_: - PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND - ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK. - - J. Maxwell, Printer. - 1814. - - -DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit: - -BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the -thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of America, -A.D. 1814, Bradford & Inskeep, of the said district, have deposited -in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as -proprietors, to the words following, to wit: - -“History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and -Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky -Mountains, and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed -during the Years 1804-5-6, by order of the Government of the United -States. Prepared for the press by Paul Allen, Esquire.” - -In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled -“An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies -of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such -copies during the time therein mentioned.” And also to the act, -entitled, “An act supplementary to an act, entitled, “An act for the -encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and -books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the time -therein mentioned,” and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of -designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.” - - DAVID CALDWELL, - Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - VOL. II. - - CHAPTER I. - - The party proceed in canoes. Description of an Indian sweating - bath and burial place. Many dangerous rapids passed. Narrow - escape of one of the canoes. In the passage down they are - visited by several Indians, all of whom manifest pacific - dispositions. Description of the Sokulk tribe. Their dress, - and manner of building houses. Their pacific character. Their - habits of living. Their mode of boiling salmon. Vast quantities - of salmon amongst the Sokulk. Council held with this tribe. The - terror and consternation excited by captain Clark, concerning - which an interesting cause is related. Some account of the - Pisquitpaws. Their mode of burying the dead. 1 - - CHAPTER II. - - The party in their passage still visited by the Indians. - Lepage’s river described. Immense quantities of salmon caught - by the Indians. Description of the river Towahnahiooks. - Indian mode of stacking fish, and preparing them for market. - Description of the great falls. Description of an Indian canoe. - Alarm excited by an anticipated attack from the Eheltoots. A - very dangerous rapid passed in safety, called by the Indians - the Falls. Account of the Indian houses in the neighbourhood. - Another dreadful rapid passed without injury. Some account of - the Chilluckittequaw Indians. Captain Clark examines the great - rapids. Description of an Indian burial place. The rapids - passed in safety. 27 - - CHAPTER III. - - First appearance of tide water in the Columbia river. - Description of the Quicksand river. Some account of the - Skilloot Indians. The party pass the river Coweliskee. Some - account of the Wahkiacum Indians. Arrival on the borders of - the Pacific. Disagreeable and critical situation of the party - when first encamped. Their distress occasioned by the incessant - torrents of rain. Exposed for thirty days to this drenching - deluge, during which time their provisions are spoiled, and - most of their few articles of merchandise destroyed. Distress - of the party. Adventure of Shannon and his danger from the - Wahkiacum. Difficulty of finding a place suitable for a - permanent encampment. Visited by several Indians of different - tribes, on whom medals are bestowed. 58 - - CHAPTER IV. - - Extravagant passion of the natives for blue beads, which - constitute amongst them the circulating medium of the country. - The party still in search of a suitable place for winter - quarters. Still suffering from the constant deluges of rain. - Are visited by the Indians, with whom they traffic but little, - on account of the extravagant prices they ask for every - article. Return of captain Lewis who reports that he has found - a suitable place for winter quarters. The rain still continues. - They prepare to form an encampment on a point of high land on - the banks of the river Nutel. Captain Clark goes with a party - to find a place suitable for the manufacture of salt. He is - hospitably entertained by the Clatsops. This tribe addicted to - the vice of gambling. Sickness of some of the party, occasioned - by the incessant rains. They form, notwithstanding, a permanent - encampment for their winter quarters. 83 - - CHAPTER V. - - A party, headed by captain Clark, go in quest of a whale driven - on the shore of the Pacific to obtain some of the oil. They - pass the Clatsop river, which is described. The perilous nature - of this jaunt, and the grandeur of the scenery described. - Indian mode of extracting whale oil. The life of one of captain - Clark’s party preserved by the kindness of an Indian woman. A - short account of the Chinnooks, of the Clatsops, Killamucks, - the Lucktons, and an enumeration of several other tribes. - The manner of sepulchre among the Chinnooks, Clatsops, &c. - Description of their weapons of war and hunting. Their mode of - building houses. Their manufactures, and cookery. Their mode of - making canoes. Their great dexterity in managing that vehicle. 105 - - CHAPTER VI. - - An account of the Clatsops, Killamucks, Chinnooks and - Cathlamahs. Their uniform customs of flattening the forehead. - The dress of these savages, and their ornaments, described. - The licensed prostitution of the women, married and unmarried, - of which a ludicrous instance is given. The character of their - diseases. The common opinion, that the treatment of women is - the standard by which the virtues of an Indian may be known, - combatted, and disproved by examples. The respect entertained - by these Indians for old age, compared with the different - conduct of those nations who subsist by the chase. Their mode - of government. Their ignorance of ardent spirits, and their - fondness for gambling. Their dexterity in traffic. In what - articles their traffic consists. Their extraordinary attachment - to blue beads, which forms their circulating medium. 130 - - CHAPTER VII. - - A general description of the beasts, birds, and - plants, &c. found by the party in this expedition. 148 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Difficulty of procuring means of subsistence for the party. - They determine to resume their journey to the mountains. - They leave in the hands of the Indians a written memorandum, - importing their having penetrated to the Pacific, through the - route of the Missouri and Columbia, and through the Rocky - mountains. The party commence their return route. Dexterity of - the Cathlamah Indians in carving. Description of the Coweliskee - river. They experience much hospitality from the natives. An - instance of the extreme voracity of the vulture. The party - are visited by many strange Indians, all of whom are kind and - hospitable. Scarcity of game, and embarrassments of the party - on that account. Captain Clark discovers a tribe not seen in - the descent down the Columbia. Singular adventure to obtain - provisions from them. Particular description of the Multnomah - village and river. Description of mount Jefferson. Some - account by captain Clark of the Neerchokio tribe, and of their - architecture. Their sufferings by the small-pox. 202 - - CHAPTER IX. - - Description of Wappatoo island, and the mode in which the - nations gather wappatoo. The character of the soil and its - productions. The numerous tribes residing in its vicinity. The - probability that they were all of the tribe of the Multnomahs - originally, inferred from similarity of dress, manners, - language, &c. Description of their dress, weapons of war, their - mode of burying the dead. Description of another village, - called the Wahelellah village. Their mode of architecture. - Extraordinary height of Beacon rock. Unfriendly character of - the Indians at that place. The party, alarmed for their safety, - resolve to inflict summary vengeance, in case the Wahelellah - tribe persist in their outrages and insults. Interview with - the chief of that tribe, and confidence restored. Difficulty - of drawing the canoes over the rapids. Visited by a party of - the Yehugh tribe. Short notice of the Weocksockwillackum tribe. - Curious phenomenon observed in the Columbia, from the Rapids to - the Chilluckittequaws. 223 - - CHAPTER X. - - Captain Clark procures four horses for the transportation of - the baggage. Some further account of the Skilloot tribe. Their - joy at the first appearance of salmon in the Columbia. Their - thievish propensities. The party arrive at the village of - the Eneeshurs, where the natives are found alike unfriendly. - The party now provided with horses. The party prevented from - the exercise of hostility against this nation by a friendly - adjustment. The scarcity of timber so great that they are - compelled to buy wood to cook their provisions. Arrive at - the Wahhowpum village. Dance of the natives. Their ingenuity - in declining to purchase the canoes, on the supposition that - the party would be compelled to leave them behind defeated. - The party having obtained a complement of horses, proceed by - land. Arrive at the Pishquitpah village, and some account of - that people. Their frank and hospitable treatment from the - Wollawollahs. Their mode of dancing described. Their mode of - making fish-weirs. Their amiable character, and their unusual - affection for whites. 244 - - CHAPTER XI. - - The party still pursue their route towards the Kooskooskee on - horseback with Wollawollah guides. Character of the country. - The quamash and other flowering shrubs in bloom. The party - reach the Kinnooenim creek. They meet with an old acquaintance - called the Bighorn Indian. They arrive at the mouth of the - Kooskooskee. Singular custom among the Chopunnish women. - Difficulty of purchasing provisions from the natives, and the - new resort of the party to obtain them. The Chopunnish style - of architecture. Captain Clark turns physician, and performs - several experiments with success upon the natives, which they - reward. An instance of their honesty. The distress of the - Indians for want of provisions during the winter. The party - finally meet the Twistedhair, to whom was entrusted their - horses during their journey down. The quarrel between that - chief and another of his nation, on the subject of his horses. - The cause of this controversy stated at large. The two chiefs - reconciled by the interference of the party, and the horses - restored. Extraordinary instance of Indian hospitality towards - strangers. A council held with the Chopunnish, and the object - of the expedition explained in a very circuitous route of - explanation. The party again perform medical cures. The answer - of the Chopunnish to the speech delivered at the council, - confirmed by a singular ceremony of acquiescence. They promise - faithfully to follow the advice of their visiters. 264 - - CHAPTER XII. - - The party encamp amongst the Chopunnish, and receive further - evidences of their hospitality. The Indian mode of boiling - bear-flesh. Of gelding horses. Their mode of decoying the - deer within reach of their arrows. Character of the soil and - climate in the Rocky mountain. Varieties of climate. Character - of the natives. Their dress and ornaments. Mode of burying the - dead. The party administer medical relief to the natives. One - of the natives restored to the use of his limbs by sweating, - and the curious process by which perspiration was excited. - Another proof of Chopunnish hospitality. Success of their - sweating prescription on the Indian chief. Description of the - horned lizzard, and a variety of insects. The attachment of the - friends of a dying Indian to a tomahawk which he had stolen - from the party, and which they desired to bury with the body. - Description of the river Tommanamah. The Indians return an - answer to a proposition made by the party. 286 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - The party mingle in the diversions of the Willetpos Indians, - a tribe hitherto unnoticed. Their joy on the prospect of a - return. Description of the vegetables growing on the Rocky - mountains. Various preparations made to resume their journey. - The party set out, and arrive at Hungry creek. The serious - and desponding difficulties that obstructed their progress. - They are compelled to return and wait for a guide across - the mountains. Their distress for want of provisions. They - resolve to return to the Quamash flats. They are at last so - fortunate as to procure Indian guides, with whom they resume - their journey to the falls of the Missouri. The danger of - the route described. Their scarcity of provisions, and the - danger of their journey. Their course lying along the ridges - of mountains. Description of the warm springs, where the party - encamp. The fondness of the Indians for bathing in them. 309 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - The party proceed on their journey with their Indian guides, - and at length agree to divide, to take several routes, and - to meet again at the mouth of Yellowstone river. The route - of captain Lewis is to pursue the most direct road to the - falls of the Missouri, then to ascend Maria’s river, explore - the country, and to descend that river to its mouth. Captain - Lewis, accordingly, with nine men proceed up the eastern branch - of Clark’s river, and take leave of their Indian guides. - Description of that branch, and character of the surrounding - country. Description of the Cokalahishkit river. They arrive - at the ridge dividing the Missouri from the Columbia rivers. - Meet once more with the buffaloe and brown bear. Immense herds - of buffaloe discovered on the borders of Medicine river. The - party encamp on Whitebear islands. Singular adventure that - befel M’Neal. Captain Lewis, with three of his party proceed - to explore the source of Maria’s river. Tansy river described. - He reaches the dividing line of these two streams. General - character of the surrounding country. 329 - - CHAPTER XV. - - Captain Lewis and his party still proceed on the route - mentioned in the last chapter, and arrive at the forks of - Maria’s river; of which river a particular description - is given. Alarmed by the evidence that they are in the - neighbourhood of unfriendly Indians, and much distressed for - want of provisions, the weather proving unfavourable, they - are compelled to return. The face of the country described. - Interview with the unfriendly Indians, called Minnetarees of - Fort de Prairie. Mutual consternation. Resolution of captain - Lewis. They encamp together for the night, apparently with - amicable dispositions. The conversation that ensued between - these new visitants. The conflict occasioned by the Indians - attempting to seize the rifles and horses of the party, in - which one is mortally wounded. Captain Lewis kills another - Indian, and his narrow escape. Having taken four horses - belonging to the Indians, they hastened with all expedition - to join the party attached to captain Clark. Arriving near - the Missouri they are alarmed by the sound of rifles, which - proves fortunately to be from the party of their friends, - under the command of serjeant Ordway. The two detachments - thus fortunately united, leave their horses, and descend the - Missouri in canoes. They continue their route down the river - to form a junction with captain Clark. Vast quantities of - game found in their passage down the river. Captain Lewis - accidentally wounded by one of his own party. They proceed - down the Missouri, and at length join captain Clark. 347 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - The party commanded by captain Clark, previous to his being - joined by captain Lewis, proceed along Clark’s river, in - pursuance of the route mentioned in a preceding chapter. Their - sorry commemoration of our national anniversary. An instance of - Sacajawea’s strength of memory. Description of the river and of - the surrounding country as the party proceed. Several of the - horses belonging to the party supposed to be stolen by their - Indian neighbours. They reach Wisdom river. Extraordinary heat - of a spring. The strong attachment of the party for tobacco, - which they find on opening a cache. Serjeant Ordway recovers - the horses. Captain Clark divides his party, one detachment - of which was to descend the river: they reach Gallatin and - Jefferson rivers, of which a description is given. Arrive at - the Yellowstone river. Some account of Otter and Beaver rivers. - An example of Indian fortification. One of the party seriously - and accidentally wounded. Engaged in the construction of - canoes. Twenty-four horses stolen, probably by the Indians in - one night. 366 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - Captain Clark proceeds with his party down the river. - Description of an Indian lodge. Serjeant Pryor arrives with - the horses left by the party when they embarked in their - canoes; his difficulty in bringing them on. Remarkable rock - discovered by captain Clark, and the beauty of the prospect - from the summit. They continue their route down the river, - of which a particular description is given, as well as the - surrounding country. Yellowstone and Bighorn rivers compared. - Great quantities of game found on the banks of the rivers. - Immense herds of buffaloe. Fierceness of the white bear. - Encamp at the junction of the Yellowstone and Missouri. A - general outline given of Yellowstone river, comprehending the - shoals; its entrance recommended for the formation of a trading - establishment. The sufferings of the party from the musquetoes. - Serjeant Pryor, who, with a detachment of the party, was to - have brought on the horses, arrives and reports that they were - all stolen by the Indians; deprived of these animals, they - form for themselves Indian canoes of the skins of beasts, and - of curious structure, with which they descend the river over - the most difficult shoals and dangerous rapids. Meet with two - white men unexpectedly, from whom they procure intelligence of - the Indians formerly visited by the party. 385 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - The party, while descending the river in their skin canoes, - are overtaken by the detachment under captain Lewis, and the - whole party, now once more happily united, descend the Missouri - together. They once more visit the Minnetaree Indians, and - hold a council with that nation as well as with the Mahahas. - Captain Clark endeavours to persuade their chiefs to accompany - him to the United States, which invitation they decline, on - account of their fears of the Sioux, in their passage down the - river. Colter, one of the party, requests and obtains liberty - to remain among the Indians for the purpose of hunting beaver. - Friendly deportment of the Mandans; council held by captain - Clark with the chiefs of the different villages; the chief - named the Bigwhite, with his wife and son, agree to accompany - the party to the United States, who takes an affecting farewell - of his nation. Chaboneau, with his wife and child, decline - visiting the United States, and are left among the Indians. - The party at length proceed on their journey, and find that - the course of the Missouri has, in some places, changed since - their passage up that river. They arrive among the Ricaras. - Character of the Chayennes; their dress, habits, &c. Captain - Clark offers to the chief of this nation a medal, which he at - first refuses, believing it to be medicine, but which he is - afterwards prevailed on to accept. The Ricaras refuse to permit - one of their party to accompany captain Clark to the United - states until the return of their chief, who had formerly gone. - The party proceed rapidly down the river. Prepare to defend - themselves against the Tetons, but receive no injury from them. - Incredible numbers of buffaloe seen near White river. They - meet, at last, with the Tetons, and refuse their invitation to - land. Intrepidity of captain Clark. 403 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - The party return in safety to St. Louis. 423 - - Appendix. 435 - - - - -LEWIS AND CLARKE’S EXPEDITION UP THE MISSOURI. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - The party proceed in canoes--description of an Indian sweating - bath and burial place--many dangerous rapids passed--narrow - escape of one of the canoes--in the passage down they are - visited by several Indians, all of whom manifest pacific - dispositions--description of the Sokulk tribe--their dress, - and manner of building houses--their pacific character--their - habits of living--their mode of boiling salmon--vast quantities - of salmon amongst the Sokulk--council held with this tribe--the - terror and consternation excited by captain Clarke, concerning - which an interesting cause is related--some account of the - Pisquitpaws--their mode of burying the dead. - - -Friday, October 11, 1805. This morning the wind was from the east, and -the weather cloudy. We set out early, and at the distance of a mile -and a half reached a point of rocks in a bend of the river towards -the left, near to which was an old Indian house, and a meadow on the -opposite bank. Here the hills came down towards the water, and formed -by the rocks, which have fallen from their sides, a rapid over which we -dragged the canoes. We passed, a mile and a half further, two Indian -lodges in a bend towards the right, and at six miles from our camp of -last evening reached the mouth of a brook on the left. Just above this -stream we stopped for breakfast at a large encampment of Indians on the -same side: we soon began to trade with them for a stock of provisions, -and were so fortunate as to purchase seven dogs and all the fish they -would spare; while this traffic was going on, we observed a vapour bath -or sweating house in a different form from that used on the frontiers -of the United States, or in the Rocky mountains. It was a hallow square -of six or eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with -mud the other three sides, and covering the whole completely except -an aperture about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by -this hole, taking with them a number of heated stones, and jugs of -water; and after being seated round the room, throw the water on the -stones till the steam becomes of a temperature sufficiently high for -their purposes. The baths of the Indians in the Rocky mountains is of -different sizes, the most common being made of mud and sticks like an -oven, but the mode of raising the steam is exactly the same. Among -both these nations it is very uncommon for a man to bathe alone, he is -generally accompanied by one or sometimes several of his acquaintances; -indeed it is so essentially a social amusement, that to decline going -in to bathe when invited by a friend is one of the highest indignities -which can be offered to him. The Indians on the frontiers generally -use a bath which will accommodate only one person, and is formed of -a wickered work of willows about four feet high, arched at the top, -and covered with skins. In this the patient sits till by means of -the heated stones and water he has perspired sufficiently. Almost -universally these baths are in the neighbourhood of running water, -into which the Indians plunge immediately on coming out of the vapour -bath, and sometimes return again, and subject themselves to a second -perspiration. This practice is, however, less frequent among our -neighbouring nations than those to the westward. This bath is employed -either for pleasure or for health, and is used indiscriminately for -rheumatism, venereal, or in short for all kinds of diseases. - -On leaving this encampment we passed two more rapids, and some swift -water, and at the distance of four and a half miles reached one which -was much more difficult to pass. Three miles beyond this rapid, are -three huts of Indians on the right, where we stopped and obtained -in exchange for a few trifles some pashequa roots, five dogs and a -small quantity of dried fish. We made our dinner of part of each of -these articles, and then proceeded on without any obstruction, till -after making twelve and a half miles we came to a stony island on the -right side of the river, opposite to which is a rapid, and a second -at its lower point. About three and a half miles beyond the island is -a small brook which empties itself into a bend on the right, where we -encamped at two Indian huts, which are now inhabited. Here we met two -Indians belonging to a nation who reside at the mouth of this river. -We had made thirty-one miles to-day, although the weather was warm, -and we found the current obstructed by nine different rapids, more or -less difficult to pass. All these rapids are fishing places of great -resort in the season, and as we passed we observed near them, slabs -and pieces of split timber raised from the ground, and some entire -houses which are vacant at present, but will be occupied as soon as -the Indians return from the plains on both sides of the river, where -our chief informs us they are now hunting the antelope. Near each of -these houses is a small collection of graves, the burial places of -those who frequent these establishments. The dead are wrapped up in -robes of skins, and deposited in graves, which are covered over with -earth and marked or secured by little pickets or pieces of wood, stuck -promiscuously over and around it. The country on both sides, after -mounting a steep ascent of about two hundred feet, becomes an open, -level and fertile plain, which is, however, as well as the borders of -the river itself, perfectly destitute of any kind of timber; and the -chief growth which we observed consisted of a few low blackberries. -We killed some geese and ducks. The wind in the after part of the day -changed to the southwest and became high, but in the morning, - -Saturday 12, it shifted to the east, and we had a fair cool morning. -After purchasing all the provisions these Indians would spare, which -amounted to only three dogs and a few fish, we proceeded. We soon -reached a small island, and in the course of three miles passed three -other islands nearly opposite to each other, and a bad rapid on the -left in the neighbourhood of them. Within the following seven miles we -passed a small rapid, and an island on the left, another stony island -and a rapid on the right, just below which a brook comes in on the -same side, and came to a bend towards the right opposite to a small -island. From this place we saw some Indians on the hills, but they were -too far off for us to have any intercourse, and showed no disposition -to approach us. After going on two miles to a bend towards the left, -we found the plains, which till now had formed rugged cliffs over the -river, leaving small and narrow bottoms, become much lower on both -sides, and the river itself widens to the space of four hundred yards, -and continues for the same width, the country rising by a gentle ascent -towards the high plains. At two and a half miles is a small creek on -the left opposite to an island. For the three following miles, the -country is low and open on both sides, after which it gradually rises -till we reached a bend of the river towards the right, three and a half -miles further, in the course of which we passed a rapid and an island. -The wind now changed to the southwest, and became violent. We passed an -island at the distance of four miles, another one mile beyond it, where -the water was swift and shallow, and two miles further, a rapid at the -upper point of a small stony island. We went along this island by the -mouth of a brook on the right, and encamped on the same side opposite -to a small island close under the left shore. Our day’s journey had -been thirty miles, and we might have gone still further, but as the -evening was coming on we halted at the head of a rapid, which the -Indians represented as dangerous to pass, for the purpose of examining -it before we set out in the morning. The country has much the same -appearance as that we passed yesterday, consisting of open plains, -which when they approach the water are faced with a dark-coloured -rugged stone. The river is as usual much obstructed by islands and -rapids, some of which are difficult to pass. Neither the plains nor the -borders of the river possess any timber, except a few hackberry bushes -and willows, and as there is not much driftwood, fuel is very scarce. - -Sunday 13. The morning was windy and dark, and the rain which began -before daylight, continued till near twelve o’clock. Having viewed -very accurately the whole of this rapid we set out, the Indians going -on before us to pilot the canoes. We found it, as had been reported, a -very dangerous rapid, about two miles in length, and strewed with rocks -in every direction, so as to require great dexterity to avoid running -against them. We however passed through the channel, which is towards -the left, and about the centre of the rapid, without meeting with any -accident. Two miles below it we had another bad rapid, a mile beyond -which is a large creek in a bend to the left. This we called Kimooenim -creek. - -On leaving it the river soon became crowded with rough black rocks, -till at the distance of a mile it forms a rapid which continues for -four miles, and during the latter part of it for a mile and a half, -the whole river is compressed into a narrow channel, not more than -twenty-five yards wide. The water happened to be low as we passed, -but during the high waters, the navigation must be very difficult. -Immediately at the end of this rapid, is a large stream in a bend to -the right, which we called Drewyer’s river, after George Drewyer one of -the party. A little below the mouth of this river is a large fishing -establishment, where there are the scaffolds and timbers of several -houses piled up against each other, and the meadow adjoining contains -a number of holes, which seem to have been used as places of deposits -for fish for a great length of time. There were no entire houses -standing, and we saw only two Indians who had visited the narrows, -but we were overtaken by two others, who accompanied us on horseback -down the river, informing us that they meant to proceed by land down -to the great river. Nine and a half miles below Drewyer’s river, we -passed another rapid, and three and a half miles farther reached some -high cliffs in a bend to the left. Here after passing the timbers of a -house, which were preserved on forks, we encamped on the right side, -near a collection of graves, such as we had seen above. The country -was still an open plain without timber, and our day’s journey had -no variety, except the fishing houses which are scattered near the -situations convenient for fishing, but are now empty. Our two Indian -companions spent the night with us. - -Monday 14. The wind was high from the southwest during the evening, -and this morning it changed to the west, and the weather became very -cold until about twelve o’clock, when it shifted to the southwest, and -continued in that quarter during the rest of the day. We set out early, -and after passing some swift water, reached at two and a half miles -a rock of a very singular appearance. It was situated on a point to -the left, at some distance from the ascending country, very high and -large, and resembling in its shape the hull of a ship. At five miles -we passed a rapid; at eight another rapid, and a small island on the -right, and at ten and a half a small island on the right. We halted a -mile and a half below for the purpose of examining a much larger and -more dangerous rapid than those we had yet passed. It is three miles in -length, and very difficult to navigate. We had scarcely set out, when -three of the canoes stuck fast in endeavouring to avoid the rocks in -the channel; soon after in passing two small rocky islands, one of the -canoes struck a rock, but was prevented from upsetting, and fortunately -we all arrived safe at the lower end of the rapid. Here we dined, and -then proceeded, and soon reached another rapid on both sides of the -river, which was divided by an island. - -As we were descending it one of the boats was driven crosswise against -a rock in the middle of the current. The crew attempted to get her -off, but the waves dashed over her, and she soon filled; they got out -on the rock and held her above water with great exertion, till another -canoe was unloaded and sent to her relief; but they could not prevent -a great deal of her baggage from floating down the stream. As soon as -she was lightened, she was hurried down the channel leaving the crew on -the rock. They were brought off by the rest of the party, and the canoe -itself, and nearly all that had been washed overboard was recovered. -The chief loss was the bedding of two of the men, a tomahawk, and some -small articles. But all the rest were wet, and though by drying we were -able to save the powder, all the loose packages of which were in this -boat, yet we lost all the roots and other provisions, which are spoilt -by the water. In order to diminish the loss as far as was in our power, -we halted for the night on an island, and exposed every thing to dry. -On landing we found some split timber for houses which the Indians -had very securely covered with stone, and also a place where they had -deposited their fish. We have hitherto abstained scrupulously from -taking any thing belonging to the Indians; but on this occasion we were -compelled to depart from this rule; and as there was no other timber to -be found in any direction for firewood, and no owner appeared from whom -it could be purchased, we used a part of these split planks, bearing in -mind our obligation to repay the proprietor whenever we should discover -him. The only game which we observed were geese and ducks, of the -latter we killed some, and a few of the blue-winged teal. Our journey -was fifteen miles in length. - -Tuesday 15. The morning was fair, and being obliged to remain for the -purpose of drying the baggage, we sent out the hunters to the plains, -but they returned at ten o’clock, without having seen even the tracks -of any large game, but brought in three geese and two ducks. The plains -are waving, and as we walked in them, we could plainly discover a -range of mountains bearing southeast and northwest, becoming higher -as they advanced towards the north, the nearest point bearing south -about sixty miles from us. Our stores being sufficiently dry to be -reloaded, and as we shall be obliged to stop for the purpose of making -some celestial observations at the mouth of the river, which cannot be -at a great distance, we concluded to embark and complete the drying at -that place; we therefore set out at two o’clock. For the first four -miles we passed three islands, at the lower points of which were the -same number of rapids, besides a fourth at a distance from them. During -the next ten miles we passed eight islands and three more rapids, and -reached a point of rocks on the left side. The islands were of various -sizes, but were all composed of round stone and sand; the rapids were -in many places difficult and dangerous to pass. About this place -the country becomes lower than usual, the ground over the river not -being higher than ninety or a hundred feet, and extending back into -a waving plain. Soon after leaving this point of rocks, we entered a -narrow channel formed by the projecting cliffs of the bank, which rise -nearly perpendicular from the water. The river is not however rapid, -but gentle and smooth during its confinement, which lasts for three -miles when it falls, or rather widens, into a kind of basin nearly -round, and without any perceptible current. After passing through this -basin, we were joined by the three Indians who had piloted us through -the rapids since we left the forks, and who in company with our two -chiefs had gone before us. They had now halted here to warn us of a -dangerous rapid, which begins at the lower point of the basin. As the -day was too far spent to descend it, we determined to examine before we -attempted it, and therefore landed near an island at the head of the -rapid, and studied particularly all its narrow and difficult parts. -The spot where we landed was an old fishing establishment, of which -there yet remained the timbers of a house carefully raised on scaffolds -to protect them against the spring tide. Not being able to procure any -other fuel, and the night being cold, we were again obliged to use the -property of the Indians, who still remain in the plains hunting the -antelope. Our progress was only twenty miles in consequence of the -difficulty of passing the rapids. Our game consisted of two teal. - -Wednesday, 16. Having examined the rapids, which we found more -difficult than the report of the Indians had induced us to believe, -we set out early, and putting our Indian guide in front, our smallest -canoe next, and the rest in succession, began the descent: the passage -proved to be very disagreeable; as there is a continuation of shoals -extending from bank to bank for the distance of three miles, during -which the channel is narrow and crooked, and obstructed by large -rocks in every direction, so as to require great dexterity to avoid -being dashed on them. We got through the rapids with no injury to -any of the boats except the hindmost, which ran on a rock; but by -the assistance of the other boats, and of the Indians who were very -alert, she escaped, though the baggage she contained was wet. Within -three miles after leaving the rapid we passed three small islands, -on one of which were the parts of a house put on scaffolds as usual, -and soon after came to a rapid at the lower extremity of three small -islands; and a second at the distance of a mile and a half below them; -reaching six miles below the great rapid a point of rocks at a rapid -opposite to the upper point of a small island on the left. Three -miles further is another rapid; and two miles beyond this a very bad -rapid, or rather a fall of the river: this, on examination, proved -so difficult to pass, that we thought it imprudent to attempt, and -therefore unloaded the canoes and made a portage of three quarters of -a mile. The rapid, which is of about the same extent, is much broken -by rocks and shoals, and has a small island in it on the right side. -After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating -were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great -haste: we received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece -of tobacco to smoke with their tribe: on receiving the present they set -out to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they -remained in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of -our two chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our -approach and of our friendly dispositions towards them. After dinner -we reloaded the canoes and proceeded: we soon passed a rapid opposite -to the upper point of a sandy island on the left, which has a smaller -island near it. At three miles is a gravelly bar in the river: four -miles beyond this the Kimooenim empties itself into the Columbia, and -at its mouth has an island just below a small rapid. We halted above -the point of junction on the Kimooenim to confer with the Indians, -who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On landing we were -met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were indebted for -this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed us a few days -since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of influence, and -harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with the Indians, -we formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, near to which -we found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old chiefs with -the stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. We had scarcely -fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief came from the -Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at the head of -nearly two hundred men: they formed a regular procession, keeping time -to the noise, rather the music of their drums, which they accompanied -with their voices. As they advanced they formed a semicircle round us, -and continued singing for some time: we then smoked with them all, and -communicated, as well as we could by signs, our friendly intentions -towards all nations, and our joy at finding ourselves surrounded by -our children: we then proceeded to distribute presents to them, giving -the principal chief a large medal, a shirt and handkerchief; to the -second chief, a medal of a smaller size, and to a third chief who came -down from some of the upper villages, a small medal and a handkerchief. -This ceremony being concluded they left us; but in the course of the -afternoon several of them returned and remained with us till a late -hour. After they had dispersed we proceeded to purchase provisions, and -were enabled to collect seven dogs, to which some of the Indians added -small presents of fish, and one of them gave us twenty pounds of fat -dried horse-flesh. - -Thursday, October 17. The day being fair we were occupied in making -the necessary observations for determining our longitude, and obtained -a meridian altitude, from which it appeared that we were in latitude -46° 15´ 13´´ 9´´´. We also measured the two rivers by angles, and -found that at the junction the Columbia is nine hundred and sixty -yards wide, and Lewis’s river five hundred and seventy-five; but soon -after they unite, the former widens to the space of from one to three -miles, including the islands. From the point of junction the country -is a continued plain, which is low near the water, from which it -rises gradually, and the only elevation to be seen is a range of high -country running from the northeast towards the southwest, where it -joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the opposite -side about two miles from the Columbia. There is through this plain -no tree and scarcely any shrub, except a few willow bushes; and even -of smaller plants there is not much more than the prickly pear, which -is in great abundance, and is even more thorny and troublesome than -any we have yet seen. During this time the principal chief came down -with several of his warriors and smoked with us: we were also visited -by several men and women, who offered dogs and fish for sale, but as -the fish was out of season, and at present abundant in the river, we -contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs we could obtain. The -nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; and with them -are united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch, -emptying itself into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of -the latter river, and whose name is Chimnapum. The language of both -these nations, of each of which we obtained a vocabulary, differs but -little from each other, or from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the -Kooskooskee and Lewis’s river. In their dress and general appearance -also they resemble much those nations; the men wearing a robe of deer -or antelope skin, under which a few of them have a short leathern -shirt. The most striking difference between them is among the females, -the Sokulk women being more inclined to corpulency than any we have -yet seen: their stature is low, their faces broad, and their heads -flattened in such a manner that the forehead is in a straight line -from the nose to the crown of the head: their eyes are of a dirty -sable, their hair too is coarse and black, and braided as above without -ornament of any kind: instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, long -leathern shirts, highly decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk -females have no other covering but a truss or piece of leather tied -round the hips and then drawn tight between the legs. The ornaments -usually worn by both sexes are large blue or white beads, either -pendant from their ears, or round the necks, wrists, and arms: they -have likewise bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, and some trinkets -of shells, fish bones, and curious feathers. The houses of the Sokulks -are made of large mats of rushes, and are generally of a square -or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to sixty feet, and -supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet high: the top -is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen inches the -whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the light and -suffering the smoke to pass through: the roof is nearly flat, which -seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country, and -the house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle -of the large room, and immediately under the hole in the roof: the -rooms are ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing tackle, -as well as the bow for each inhabitant, and a large quiver of arrows, -which are headed with flint stones. - -The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in -a state of comparative happiness. The men like those on the Kimooenim, -are said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom we observe -the husband shares the labours of procuring subsistence much more than -is usual among savages. What may be considered as an unequivocal proof -of their good disposition, is the great respect which was shown to old -age. Among other marks of it, we observed in one of the houses an old -woman perfectly blind, and who we were informed had lived more than a -hundred winters. In this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best -position in the house, seemed to be treated with great kindness, and -whatever she said was listened to with much attention. They are by no -means intrusive, and as their fisheries supply them with a competent, -if not an abundant subsistence, although they receive thankfully -whatever we choose to give, they do not importune us by begging. The -fish is, indeed, their chief food, except the roots, and the casual -supplies of the antelope, which to those who have only bows and arrows, -must be very scanty. This diet may be the direct or the remote cause -of the chief disorder which prevails among them, as well as among the -Flatheads, on the Kooskooskee and Lewis’s river. With all these Indians -a bad soreness of the eyes is a very common disorder, which is suffered -to ripen by neglect, till many are deprived of one of their eyes, and -some have totally lost the use of both. This dreadful calamity may -reasonably, we think, be imputed to the constant reflection of the sun -on the waters where they are constantly fishing in the spring, summer -and fall, and during the rest of the year on the snows of a country -which affords no object to relieve the sight. Among the Sokulks too, -and indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence is fish, we -have observed that bad teeth are very general: some have the teeth, -particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and many -of both sexes, and even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. -This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among the -Indians, either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar -to the inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one -principal cause of it, the manner in which they eat their food. The -roots are swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently nearly -covered with a gritty sand: so little idea have they that this is -offensive, that all the roots they offer us for sale are in the same -condition. A second and a principal cause may be their great use of -the dried salmon, the bad effects of which are most probably increased -by their mode of cooking it, which is simply to warm, and then swallow -the rind, scales and flesh without any preparation. The Sokulks possess -but few horses, the greater part of their labours being performed in -canoes. Their amusements are similar to those of the Missouri Indians. - -In the course of the day captain Clarke, in a small canoe with two -men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles he passed -an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which is a small -and not a dangerous rapid. On the left bank of the river opposite to -this river is a fishing place, consisting of three mat houses. Here -were great quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds: and indeed from -the mouth of the river upwards he saw immense numbers of dead salmon -strewed along the shore or floating on the surface of the water, which -is so clear that the salmon may be seen swimming in the water at the -depth of fifteen or twenty feet. The Indians who had collected on the -banks to view him, now joined him in eighteen canoes, and accompanied -him up the river. A mile above the rapids he came to the lower point of -an island where the course of the river, which had been from its mouth -north 83° west, now became due west. He proceeded in that direction, -when observing three houses of mats at a short distance he landed to -visit them. On entering one of the houses he found it crowded with men, -women and children, who immediately provided a mat for him to sit on, -and one of the party undertook to prepare something to eat. He began -by bringing in a piece of pine wood that had drifted down the river, -which he split into small pieces, with a wedge made of the elks’ horn, -by means of a mallet of stone curiously carved. The pieces were then -laid on the fire, and several round stones placed upon them: one of -the squaws now brought a bucket of water, in which was a large salmon -about half dried, and as the stones became heated, they were put into -the bucket till the salmon was sufficiently boiled for use. It was then -taken out, put on a platter of rushes neatly made, and laid before -captain Clarke, and another was boiled for each of his men. During -these preparations he smoked with those about him who would accept -of tobacco, but very few were desirous of smoking, a custom which is -not general among them, and chiefly used as a matter of form in great -ceremonies. After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavour, -captain Clarke set out, and at the distance of four miles from the -last island, came to the lower point of another near the left shore, -where he halted at two large mat houses. Here as at the three houses -below, the inhabitants were occupied in splitting and drying salmon. -The multitudes of this fish are almost inconceivable. The water is -so clear that they can readily be seen at the depth of fifteen or -twenty feet, but at this season they float in such quantities down -the stream, and are drifted ashore, that the Indians have only to -collect, split and dry them on the scaffolds. Where they procure the -timber of which these scaffolds are composed he could not learn, but -as there are nothing but willow bushes to be seen for a great distance -from the place, it rendered very probable, what the Indians assured -him by signs, that they often used dried fish as fuel for the common -occasions of cooking. From this island they showed him the entrance of -a western branch of the Colombia, called the _Tapteal_, which as far as -could be seen bears nearly west, and empties itself about eight miles -above into the Columbia; the general course of which is northwest: -towards the southwest a range of highland runs parallel to the river, -at the distance of two miles on the left, while on the right side the -country is low and covered with the prickly pear, and a weed or plant -two or three feet high resembling whins. To the eastward is a range -of mountains about fifty or sixty miles distant, which bear north and -south; but neither in the low grounds, nor in the highlands is any -timber to be seen. The evening coming on he determined not to proceed -further than the island, and therefore returned to camp, accompanied -by three canoes, which contained twenty Indians. In the course of his -excursion he shot several grouse and ducks, and received some presents -of fish, for which he gave in return small pieces of riband. He also -killed a prairie cock, an animal of the pheasant kind, but about the -size of a small turkey. It measured from the beak to the end of the -toe two feet six inches and three quarters, from the extremity of the -wings three feet six inches, and the feathers of the tail were thirteen -inches long. This bird we have seen no where except on this river. Its -chief food is the grasshopper, and the seed of the wild plant which is -peculiar to this river and the upper parts of the Missouri. - -The men availed themselves of this day’s rest to mend their clothes, -dressing skins, and putting their arms in complete order, an object -always of primary concern, but particularly at a moment when we are -surrounded by so many strangers. - -Friday 18. We were visited this morning by several canoes of Indians, -who joined those who were already with us, and soon opened a numerous -council. We informed them as we had done all the other Indian nations -of our friendship for them, and of our desire to promote peace among -all our red children in this country. This was conveyed by signs -through the means of our two chiefs, and seemed to be perfectly -understood. We then made a second chief, and gave to all the chiefs -a string of wampum, in remembrance of what we had said. Whilst -the conference was going on four men came in a canoe from a large -encampment on an island about eight miles below, but after staying a -few minutes returned without saying a word to us. We now procured from -the principal chief and one of the Cuimnapum nation a sketch of the -Columbia, and the tribes of his nation living along its banks and those -of the Tapteet. They drew it with a piece of coal on a robe, and as we -afterwards transferred to paper, it exhibited a valuable specimen of -Indian delineation. - -Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our -stores, and fish being out of season, purchased forty dogs, for which -we gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, -brass wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed -perfectly satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie cocks killed this -morning, formed a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our -guide and the two young men who had accompanied him, two of the three -not being willing to go any further, and the third could be of no use -as he was not acquainted with the river below. We therefore took no -Indians but our two chiefs, and resumed our journey in the presence of -many of the Sokulks, who came to witness our departure. The morning was -cool and fair, and the wind from the southeast. Soon after proceeding, - -We passed the island in the mouth of Lewis river, and at eight miles -reached a larger island, which extends three miles in length. On going -down by this island there is another on the right, which commences -about the middle of it, and continues for three and a half miles. -While they continue parallel to each other they occasion a rapid near -the lower extremity of the first island, opposite to which on the -second island are nine lodges built of mats, and intended for the -accommodation of the fishermen, of whom we saw great numbers, and vast -quantities of dried fish on their scaffolds. - -On reaching the lower point of the island, we landed to examine a -bad rapid, and then undertook the passage which is very difficult, -as the channel lies between two small islands, with two others still -smaller near the left side of the river. Here are two Indian houses, -the inhabitants of which were as usual drying fish. We passed the -rapid without injury, and fourteen and a half miles from the mouth of -Lewis’s river, came to an island near the right shore, on which were -two other houses of Indians, pursuing the customary occupation. One -mile and a half beyond this place, is a mouth of a small brook under a -high hill on the left. It seems to run during its whole course through -the high country, which at this place begins, and rising to the height -of two hundred feet form cliffs of rugged black rocks which project a -considerable distance into the river. At this place too we observed a -mountain to the S. W. the form of which is conical, and its top covered -with snow. We followed the river as it entered these highlands, and at -the distance of two miles reached three islands, one on each side of -the river, and a third in the middle, on which were two houses, where -the Indians were drying fish opposite a small rapid. Near these a -fourth island begins, close to the right shore, where were nine lodges -of Indians, all employed with their fish. As we passed they called to -us to land, but as night was coming on, and there was no appearance -of wood in the neighborhood, we went on about a mile further, till -observing a log that had drifted down the river, we landed near it on -the left side, and formed our camp under a high hill, after having -made twenty miles to-day. Directly opposite to us are five houses of -Indians, who were drying fish on the same island where we had passed -the nine lodges, and on the other side of the river we saw a number -of horses feeding. Soon after landing, we were informed by our chiefs -that the large camp of nine houses, belonged to the first chief of all -the tribes in this quarter, and that he had called to request us to -land and pass the night with him as he had plenty of wood for us. This -intelligence would have been very acceptable if it had been explained -sooner, for we were obliged to use dried willows for fuel to cook with, -not being able to burn the drift-log which had tempted us to land. We -now sent the two chiefs along the left side of the river to invite the -great chief down to spend the night with us. He came at a late hour, -accompanied by twenty men, bringing a basket of mashed berries which he -left as a present for us, and formed a camp at a short distance from -us. The next morning, - -Saturday 19, the great chief with two of his inferior chiefs, and a -third belonging to a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very -early hour. The first of these is called _Yelleppit_, a handsome well -proportioned man, about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five -years of age, with a bold and dignified countenance; the rest were -not distinguished in their appearance. We smoked with them, and after -making a speech gave a medal, a handkerchief, and a string of wampum -to Yelleppit, and a string of wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He -requested us to remain till the middle of the day, in order that all -his nation might come and see us, but we excused ourselves by telling -him that on our return we would spend two or three days with him. This -conference detained us till nine o’clock, by which time great numbers -of the Indians had come down to visit us. On leaving them, we went -on for eight miles, when we came to an island near the left shore -which continued six miles in length. At the lower extremity of it is a -small island on which are five houses, at present vacant, though the -scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A short distance below, are -two more islands, one of them near the middle of the river. On this -there were seven houses; but as soon as the Indians, who were drying -fish, saw us, they fled to their houses, and not one of them appeared -till we had passed, when they came out in greater numbers than is usual -for houses of that size, which induced us to think that the inhabitants -of the five lodges had been alarmed at our approach and taken refuge -with them. We were very desirous of landing in order to relieve their -apprehensions, but as there was a bad rapid along the island, all our -care was necessary to prevent injury to the canoes. At the foot of this -rapid is a rock, on the left shore, which is fourteen miles from our -camp of last night, and resembles a hat in its shape. - -Four miles beyond this island we came to a rapid, from the appearance -of which it was judged prudent to examine it. After landing for that -purpose on the left side, we began to enter the channel which is -close under the opposite shore. It is a very dangerous rapid, strewed -with high rocks and rocky islands, and in many places obstructed by -shoals, over which the canoes were to be hauled, so that we were more -than two hours in passing through the rapids, which extend for the -same number of miles. The rapid has several small islands, and banks -of muscleshells are spread along the river in several places. In -order to lighten the boats, captain Clarke, with the two chiefs, the -interpreter, and his wife, had walked across the low grounds on the -left to the foot of the rapids. On the way, captain Clarke ascended a -cliff about two hundred feet above the water, from which he saw that -the country on both sides of the river immediately from its cliffs, -was low, and spreads itself into a level plain, extending for a -great distance on all sides. To the west, at the distance of about -one hundred and fifty miles, is a very high mountain covered with -snow, and from its direction and appearance, he supposed to be the -mount St. Helens, laid down by Vancouver, as visible from the mouth -of the Columbia: there is also another mountain of a conical form, -whose top is covered with snow, in a southwest direction. As captain -Clarke arrived at the lower end of the rapid before any, except one of -the small canoes, he sat down on a rock to wait for them, and seeing -a crane fly across the river, shot it, and it fell near him. Several -Indians had been before this passing on the opposite side towards the -rapids, and some few who had been nearly in front of him, being either -alarmed at his appearance or the report of the gun, fled to their -houses. Captain Clarke was afraid that these people had not yet heard -that white men were coming, and therefore, in order to allay their -uneasiness before the whole party should arrive, he got into the small -canoe with three men and rowed over towards the houses, and while -crossing, shot a duck, which fell into the water. As he approached, -no person was to be seen except three men in the plains, and they too -fled as he came near the shore. He landed before five houses close to -each other, but no one appeared, and the doors, which were of mat, -were closed. He went towards one of them with a pipe in his hand, and -pushing aside the mat entered the lodge, where he found thirty-two -persons, chiefly men and women, with a few children, all in the -greatest consternation; some hanging down their heads, others crying -and wringing their hands. He went up to them all and shook hands with -them in the most friendly manner; but their apprehensions, which had -for a moment subsided, revived on his taking out a burning glass, as -there was no roof to the house, and lighting his pipe: he then offered -it to several of the men, and distributed among the women and children -some small trinkets which he carried about with him, and gradually -restored some tranquillity among them. He then left this house, and -directing each of the men to go into a house, went himself to a second: -here we found the inhabitants more terrified than those he had first -seen; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and then visited the other -houses, where the men had been equally successful. After leaving the -houses he went out to sit on a rock, and beckoned to some of the men -to come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to join him till -the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately explained -our pacific intentions towards them. Soon after the interpreter’s -wife landed, and her presence dissipated all doubts of our being -well-disposed, since in this country, no woman ever accompanies a war -party: they therefore all came out and seemed perfectly reconciled; -nor could we indeed blame them for their terrors, which were perfectly -natural. They told the two chiefs that they knew we were not men, for -they had seen us fall from the clouds: in fact, unperceived by them, -captain Clarke had shot the white crane, which they had seen fall just -before he appeared to their eyes: the duck which he had killed also -fell close by him, and as there were a few clouds flying over at the -moment, they connected the fall of the birds and his sudden appearance, -and believed that he had himself dropped from the clouds; the noise of -the rifle, which they had never heard before, being considered merely -as the sound to announce so extraordinary an event. This belief was -strengthened, when on entering the room he brought down fire from -the heavens by means of his burning-glass: we soon convinced them -satisfactorily that we were only mortals, and after one of our chiefs -had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in great -harmony. These people do not speak precisely the same language as -the Indians above, but understand them in conversation. In a short -time we were joined by many of the inhabitants from below, several of -them on horseback, and all pleased to see us, and to exchange their -fish and berries for a few trinkets. We remained here to dine, and -then proceeded. At half a mile the hilly country on the right side -of the river ceased: at eleven miles we found a small rapid, and a -mile further came to a small island on the left, where there are some -willows. Since we had left the five lodges, we passed twenty more, -dispersed along the river at different parts of the valley on the -right; but as they were now apprised of our coming they showed no -signs of alarm. On leaving the island we passed three miles further -along a country which is low on both sides of the river, and encamped -under some willow trees on the left, having made thirty-six miles -to-day. Immediately opposite to us is an island close to the left -shore, and another in the middle of the river, on which are twenty-four -houses of Indians, all engaged in drying fish. We had scarcely landed -before about a hundred of them came over in their boats to visit us, -bringing with them a present of some wood, which was very acceptable: -we received them in as kind a manner as we could--smoked with all of -them, and gave the principal chief a string of wampum; but the highest -satisfaction they enjoyed was the music of two of our violins, with -which they seemed much delighted: they remained all night at our fires. -This tribe is a branch of the nation called Pishquitpaws, and can raise -about three hundred and fifty men. In dress they resemble the Indians -near the forks of the Columbia, except that their robes are smaller and -do not reach lower than the waist; indeed, three fourths of them have -scarcely any robes at all. The dress of the females is equally scanty; -for they wear only a small piece of a robe which covers their shoulders -and neck, and reaches down the back to the waist, where it is attached -by a piece of leather tied tight round the body: their breasts, which -are thus exposed to view, are large, ill-shaped, and are suffered to -hang down very low: their cheek-bones high, their heads flattened, and -their persons in general adorned with scarcely any ornaments. Both -sexes are employed in curing fish, of which they have great quantities -on their scaffolds. - -Sunday 20. The morning was cool, the wind from the southwest. Our -appearance had excited the curiosity of the neighbourhood so much, that -before we set out about two hundred Indians had collected to see us, -and as we were desirous of conciliating their friendship, we remained -to smoke and confer with them till breakfast. We then took our repast, -which consisted wholly of dog-flesh, and proceeded. We passed three -vacant houses near our camp, and at six miles reached the head of a -rapid, on descending which we soon came to another, very difficult and -dangerous. It is formed by a chain of large black rocks, stretching -from the right side of the river, and with several small islands on -the left, nearly choaking the channel of the river. To this place we -gave the name of the Pelican rapid, from seeing a number of pelicans -and black cormorants about it. Just below it is a small island near the -right shore, where are four houses of Indians, all busy in drying fish. -At sixteen miles from our camp we reached a bend to the left opposite -to a large island, and at one o’clock halted for dinner on the lower -point of an island on the right side of the channel. Close to this was -a larger island on the same side, and on the left bank of the river a -small one, a little below. We landed near some Indian huts, and counted -on this cluster of three islands, seventeen of their houses filled with -inhabitants, resembling in every respect those higher up the river; -like the inhabitants, they were busy in preparing fish. We purchased of -them some dried fish, which were not good, and a few berries, on which -we dined, and then walked to the head of the island for the purpose of -examining a vault, which we had marked in coming along. This place, in -which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty feet long and -twelve feet wide, and is formed by placing in the ground poles or forks -six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole length -of the structure. Against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards, -and pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. -It stands east and west, and neither of the extremities are closed. -On entering the western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped -carefully in leather robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were -then covered with a mat. This was the part destined for those who -had recently died: a little farther on, the bones half decayed were -scattered about, and in the centre of the building was a large pile -of them heaped promiscuously on each other. At the eastern extremity -was a mat, on which twenty-one sculls were placed in a circular -form, the mode of interment being first to wrap the body in robes, -and as it decays the bones are thrown into the heap, and the sculls -placed together. From the different boards and pieces of canoes which -form the vault, were suspended on the inside fishing-nets, baskets, -wooden-bowls, robes, skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, -obviously intended as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. -On the outside of the vault were the skeletons of several horses, -and great quantities of bones in the neighbourhood, which induced us -to believe that these animals were most probably sacrificed at the -funeral rites of their masters. Having dined we proceeded past a small -island, where were four huts of Indians, and at the lower extremity a -bad rapid. Half a mile beyond this, and at the distance of twenty-four -from our camp, we came to the commencement of the highlands on the -right, which are the first we have seen on that side since near the -Muscleshell rapids, leaving a valley forty miles in extent. Eight -miles lower we passed a large island in the middle of the river, below -which are eleven small islands, five on the right, the same number -on the left and one in the middle of the stream. A brook falls in on -the right side, and a small rivulet empties itself behind one of the -islands. The country on the right consists of high and rugged hills; -the left is a low plain with no timber on either side, except a few -small willow-brushes along the banks; though a few miles after leaving -these islands the country on the left rises to the same height with -that opposite to it, and becomes an undulating plain. Two miles after -passing a small rapid we reached a point of highland in a bend towards -the right, and encamped for the evening, after a journey of forty-two -miles. The river has been about a quarter of a mile in width, with a -current much more uniform than it was during the last two days. We -killed two speckled gulls, and several ducks of a delicious flavour. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - The party in their passage still visited by the - Indians--Lepage’s river described--immense quantities of - salmon caught by the Indians--description of the river - Towahnahiooks--Indian mode of stacking fish, and preparing - them for market--description of the great falls--description - of an Indian canoe--alarm excited by an anticipated attack - from the Eheltoots--a very dangerous rapid passed in safety, - called by the Indians the Falls--account of the Indian houses - in the neighbourhood--another dreadful rapid passed without - injury--some account of the Chilluckittequaw Indians--captain - Clarke examines the great rapids--description of an Indian - burial-place--the rapids passed in safety. - - -Monday 21. The morning was cool, and the wind from the southwest. -At five and a half miles we passed a small island, and one mile and -a half mile further, another in the middle of the river, which has -some rapid water near its head, and opposite to its lower extremity -are eight cabins of Indians on the right side. We landed near them to -breakfast; but such is the scarcity of wood that last evening we had -not been able to collect any thing except dry willows, and of those not -more than barely sufficient to cook our supper, and this morning we -could not find enough even to prepare breakfast. The Indians received -us with great kindness, and examined every thing they saw with much -attention. In their appearance and employments, as well as in their -language, they do not differ from those higher up the river. The dress -too is nearly the same; that of the men consisting of nothing but a -short robe of deer or goat skin; while the women wear only a piece of -dressed skin, falling from the neck so as to cover the front of the -body as low as the waist; a bandage tied round the body and passing -between the legs; and over this a short robe of deer and antelope skin -is occasionally thrown. Here we saw two blankets of scarlet, and one -of blue cloth, and also a sailor’s round jacket; but we obtained only -a few pounded roots, and some fish, for which we of course paid them. -Among other things we observed some acorns, the fruit of the white oak. -These they use as food either raw or roasted, and on inquiry informed -us that they were procured from the Indians who live near the great -falls. This place they designate by a name very commonly applied to -it by the Indians, and highly expressive, the word _Timm_, which they -pronounce so as to make it perfectly represent the sound of a distant -cataract. After breakfast we resumed our journey, and in the course of -three miles passed a rapid where large rooks were strewed across the -river, and at the head of which on the right shore were two huts of -Indians. We stopped here for the purpose of examining it, as we always -do whenever any danger is to be apprehended, and send round by land all -those who cannot swim. Five miles further is another rapid, formed by -large rocks projecting from each side, above which were five huts of -Indians on the right side, occupied like those we had already seen, in -drying fish. One mile below this is the lower point of an island close -to the right side, opposite to which on that shore, are two Indian huts. - -On the left side of the river at this place, are immense piles of -rocks, which seem to have slipped from the cliffs under which they -lie; they continue till spreading still farther into the river, at the -distance of a mile from the island, they occasion a very dangerous -rapid; a little below which on the right side are five huts. For many -miles the river is now narrow and obstructed with very large rocks -thrown into its channel; the hills continue high and covered, as is -very rarely the case, with a few low pine trees on their tops. Between -three and four miles below the last rapid occurs a second, which is -also difficult, and three miles below it is a small river, which seems -to rise in the open plains to the southeast, and falls in on the left. -It is forty yards wide at its mouth; but discharges only a small -quantity of water at present: we gave it the name of Lepage’s river -from Lepage one of our company. Near this little river and immediately -below it, we had to encounter a new rapid. The river is crowded in -every direction, with large rocks and small rocky islands; the passage -crooked and difficult, and for two miles we were obliged to wind with -great care along the narrow channels and between the huge rocks. At -the end of this rapid are four huts of Indians on the right, and two -miles below five more huts on the same side. Here we landed and passed -the night, after making thirty-three miles. The inhabitants of these -huts explained to us that they were the relations of those who live -at the great falls. They appear to be of the same nation with those -we have seen above, whom, indeed, they resemble in every thing except -that their language, although the same, has some words different. They -have all pierced noses, and the men when in full dress wear a long -tapering piece of shell or bead put through the nose. These people did -not, however, receive us with the same cordiality to which we have -been accustomed. They are poor; but we were able to purchase from them -some wood to make a fire for supper, of which they have but little, -and which they say they bring from the great falls. The hills in this -neighbourhood are high and rugged, and a few scattered trees, either -small pine or scrubby white oak, are occasionally seen on them. From -the last rapids we also observed the conical mountain towards the -southwest, which the Indians say is not far to the left of the great -falls. From its vicinity to that place we called it the Timm or Falls -mountain. The country through which we passed is furnished with several -fine springs, which rise either high up the sides of the hills or else -in the river meadows, and discharge themselves into the Columbia. -We could not help remarking that almost universally the fishing -establishments of the Indians, both on the Columbia and the waters of -Lewis’s river, are on the right bank. On inquiry we were led to believe -that the reason may be found in their fear of the Snake Indians; -between whom and themselves, considering the warlike temper of that -people, and the peaceful habits of the river tribes, it is very natural -that the latter should be anxious to interpose so good a barrier. -These Indians are described as residing on a great river to the south, -and always at war with the people of this neighbourhood. One of our -chiefs pointed out to-day a spot on the left where, not many years -ago, a great battle was fought, in which numbers of both nations were -killed. We were agreeably surprised this evening by a present of some -very good beer, made out of the remains of the bread, composed of the -Pashecoquamash, part of the stores we had laid in at the head of the -Kooskooskee, and which by frequent exposure become sour and moulded. - -[Illustration: Great Falls of COLUMBIA RIVER] - -Tuesday 22. The morning was fair and calm. We left our camp at nine -o’clock, and after going on for six miles came to the head of an -island, and a very bad rapid, where the rocks are scattered nearly -across the river. Just above this and on the right side are six huts of -Indians. At the distance of two miles below, are five more huts; the -inhabitants of which are all engaged in drying fish, and some of them -in their canoes killing fish with gigs; opposite to this establishment -is a small island in a bend towards the right, on which there were -such quantities of fish that we counted twenty stacks of dried and -pounded salmon. This small island is at the upper point of one much -larger, the sides of which are high uneven rooks, jutting over the -water: here there is a bad rapid. The island continues for four miles, -and at the middle of it is a large river, which appears to come from -the southeast, and empties itself on the left. We landed just above -its mouth in order to examine it, and soon found the route intercepted -by a deep, narrow channel, running into the Columbia above the large -entrance, so as to form a dry and rich island about 400 yards wide and -eight hundred long. Here as along the grounds of the river, the natives -had been digging large quantities of roots, as the soil was turned up -in many places. We reached the river about a quarter of a mile above -its mouth, at a place where a large body of water is compressed within -a channel of about two hundred yards in width, where it foams over -rocks, many of which are above the surface of the water. These narrows -are the end of a rapid which extends two miles back, where the river -is closely confined between two high hills, below which it is divided -by numbers of large rocks and small islands, covered with a low growth -of timber. This river, which is called by the Indians Towahnahiooks, -is two hundred yards wide at its mouth, has a very rapid current, and -contributes about one fourth as much water as the Columbia possesses -before the junction. Immediately at the entrance are three sand -islands, and near it the head of an island which runs parallel to the -large rocky island. We now returned to our boats, and passing the mouth -of the Towahnahiooks went between the islands. At the distance of two -miles we reached the lower end of this rocky island, where were eight -huts of Indians. Here too, we saw some large logs of wood, which were -most probably rafted down the Towahnahiooks; and a mile below, on the -right bank, were sixteen lodges of Indians, with whom we stopped to -smoke. Then at the distance of about a mile passed six more huts on the -same side, nearly opposite the lower extremity of the island, which -has its upper end in the mouth of the Towahnahiooks. Two miles below -we came to seventeen huts on the right side of the river, situated at -the commencement of the pitch which includes the great falls. Here we -halted, and immediately on landing walked down, accompanied by an old -Indian from the huts, in order to examine the falls, and ascertain on -which side we could make a portage most easily. We soon discovered that -the nearest route was on the right side, and therefore dropped down to -the head of the rapid, unloaded the canoes and took all the baggage -over by land to the foot of the rapid. The distance is twelve hundred -yards. On setting out we crossed a solid rock, about one third of the -whole distance; then reached a space of two hundred yards wide, which -forms a hollow, where the loose sand from the low grounds has been -driven by the winds, and is steep and loose, and therefore disagreeable -to pass; the rest of the route is over firm and solid ground. The -labour of crossing would have been very inconvenient, if the Indians -had not assisted us in carrying some of the heavy articles on their -horses; but for this service they repaid themselves so adroitly, that -on reaching the foot of the rapids we formed a camp in a position which -might secure us from the pilfering of the natives, which we apprehend -much more than we do their hostilities. Near our camp are five large -huts of Indians engaged in drying fish and preparing it for the market. -The manner of doing this, is by first opening the fish and exposing -it to the sun on their scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it is -pounded fine between two stones till it is pulverized, and is then -placed in a basket about two feet long and one in diameter, neatly made -of grass and rushes, and lined with the skin of a salmon stretched and -dried for the purpose. Here they are pressed down as hard as possible, -and the top covered with skins of fish which are secured by cords -through the holes of the basket. These baskets are then placed in some -dry situation, the corded part upwards, seven being usually placed as -close as they can be put together, and five on the top of them. The -whole is then wrapped up in mats, and made fast by cords, over which -mats are again thrown. Twelve of these baskets, each of which contains -from ninety to a hundred pounds, form a stack, which is now left -exposed till it is sent to market; the fish thus preserved are kept -sound and sweet for several years, and great quantities of it, they -inform us, are sent to the Indians who live below the falls, whence -it finds its way to the whites who visit the mouth of the Columbia. -We observe both near the lodges and on the rocks in the river, great -numbers of stacks of those pounded fish. - -Besides fish, these people supplied us with filberts and berries, and -we purchased a dog for supper; but it was with much difficulty that we -were able to buy wood enough to cook it. In the course of the day we -were visited by many Indians, from whom we learnt that the principal -chiefs of the bands, residing in this neighbourhood, are now hunting -in the mountains towards the southwest. On that side of the river -none of the Indians have any permanent habitations, and on inquiry we -were confirmed in our belief that it was for fear of attacks from the -Snake Indians with whom they are at war. This nation they represent -as very numerous and residing in a great number of villages on the -Towahnahiooks, where they live principally on salmon. That river they -add is not obstructed by rapids above its mouth, but there becomes -large and reaches to a considerable distance: the first villages of -the Snake Indians on that river being twelve days’ journey on a course -about southeast from this place. - -Wednesday 23. Having ascertained from the Indians, and by actual -examination, the best mode of bringing down the canoes, it was found -necessary, as the river was divided into several narrow channels, -by rocks and islands, to follow the route adopted by the Indians -themselves. This operation captain Clarke began this morning, and -after crossing to the other side of the river, hauled the canoes over -a point of land, so as to avoid a perpendicular fall of twenty feet. -At the distance of four hundred and fifty-seven yards we reached the -water, and embarked at a place where a long rocky island compresses the -channel of the river within the space of a hundred and fifty yards, -so as to form nearly a semicircle. On leaving this rocky island the -channel is somewhat wider, but a second and much larger island of hard -black rock, still divides it from the main stream, while on the left -shore it is closely bordered by perpendicular rocks. Having descended -in this way for a mile, we reached a pitch of the river, which being -divided by two large rocks, descends with great rapidity down a fall -eight feet in height: as the boats could not be navigated down this -steep descent, we were obliged to land and let them down as slowly -as possible by strong ropes of elk skin, which we had prepared for -the purpose. They all passed in safety except one, which being loosed -by the breaking of the ropes, was driven down, but was recovered by -the Indians below. With this rapid ends the first pitch of the great -falls, which is not great in point of height, and remarkable only for -the singular manner in which the rocks have divided its channel. From -the marks every where perceivable at the falls, it is obvious that in -high floods, which must be in the spring, the water below the falls -rises nearly to a level with that above them. Of this rise, which is -occasioned by some obstructions which we do not as yet know, the salmon -must avail themselves to pass up the river in such multitudes, that -that fish is almost the only one caught in great abundance above the -falls; but below that place, we observe the salmon trout, and the heads -of a species of trout smaller than the salmon trout, which is in great -quantities, and which they are now burying to be used as their winter -food. A hole of any size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined with -straw, over which skins are laid: on these the fish, after being well -dried, is laid, covered with other skins, and the hole closed with a -layer of earth twelve or fifteen inches deep. About three o’clock we -reached the lower camp, but our joy at having accomplished this object -was somewhat diminished, by the persecution of a new acquaintance. On -reaching the upper point of the portage, we found that the Indians had -been encamped there not long since, and had left behind them multitudes -of fleas. These sagacious animals were so pleased to exchange the -straw and fish skins, in which they had been living, for some better -residence, that we were soon covered with them, and during the portage -the men were obliged to strip to the skin, in order to brush them from -their bodies. They were not, however, so easily dislodged from our -clothes, and accompanied us in great numbers to our camp. - -We saw no game except a sea otter, which was shot in the narrow -channel as we came down, but we could not get it. Having therefore -scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs, a food to -which we are now compelled to have recourse, for the Indians are very -unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserve for -the market below. Fortunately, however, the habit of using this animal -has completely overcome the repugnance which we felt at first, and the -dog, if not a favourite dish, is always an acceptable one. The meridian -altitude of to-day gives 45° 42´ 57´´ 3-10 north, as the latitude of -our camp. - -On the beach near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a -different shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen: one of -these we got in exchange for our smallest canoe, giving a hatchet and -a few trinkets to the owner, who said he had purchased it from a white -man below the falls, by giving him a horse. These canoes are very -beautifully made; they are wide in the middle and tapering towards each -end, with curious figures carved on the bow. They are thin, but being -strengthed by cross bars, about an inch in diameter, which are tied -with strong pieces of bark through holes in the sides, are able to bear -very heavy burdens, and seem calculated to live in the roughest water. - -A great number of Indians both from above and below the falls visited -us to-day and towards evening we were informed by one of the chiefs -who had accompanied us, that he had overheard that the Indians -below intended to attack us as we went down the river: being at all -times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were not under greater -apprehensions than usual at this intelligence: we, therefore, only -reexamined our arms and increased the ammunition to one hundred rounds. -Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, were by no -means so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the Indians -leave us earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended attack -were confirmed, and they were very much alarmed. The next morning, - -Thursday 24, the Indians approached us with apparent caution and -behaved with more than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these -circumstances were not unobserved, now told us that they wished to -return home; that they could be no longer of any service to us, and -they could not understand the language of the people below the falls; -that those people formed a different nation from their own; that the -two people had been at war with each other, and as the Indians had -expressed a resolution to attack us, they would certainly kill them. -We endeavoured to quiet their fears, and requested them to stay two -nights longer in which time we would see the Indians below, and make -a peace between the two nations. They replied that they were anxious -to return and see their horses; we however insisted on their remaining -with us, not only in hopes of bringing about an accommodation between -them and their enemies, but because they might be able to detect any -hostile designs against us, and also assist us in passing the next -falls, which are not far off, and represented as very difficult: they -at length, agreed to stay with us two nights longer. About nine o’clock -we proceeded, and on leaving our camp near the lower fall, found the -river about four hundred yards wide, with a current more rapid than -usual, though with no perceptible descent. At the distance of two and a -half miles, the river widened into a large bend or basin on the right, -at the beginning of which are three huts of Indians. At the extremity -of this basin stands a high black rock, which, rising perpendicularly -from the right shore, seems to run wholly across the river; so totally -indeed does it appear to stop the passage, that we could not see where -the water escaped, except that the current appeared to be drawn with -more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, where was a great -roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, who went with us to -the top of this rock, from which we saw all the difficulties of the -channel. We were no longer at a loss to account for the rising of the -river at the falls, for this tremendous rock stretches across the -river, to meet the high hills of the left shore, leaving a channel -of only forty-five yards wide, through which the whole body of the -Columbia must press its way. The water thus forced into so narrow a -channel, is thrown into whirls, and swells and boils in every part with -the wildest agitation. But the alternative of carrying the boats over -this high rock was almost impossible in our present situation, and as -the chief danger seemed to be not from any rocks in the channel, but -from the great waves and whirlpools, we resolved to try the passage -in our boats, in hopes of being able by dexterous steering to escape. -This we attempted, and with great care were able to get through, to -the astonishment of all the Indians of the huts we had just passed, -who now collected to see us from the top of the rock. The channel -continues thus confined within a space of about half a mile, when the -rock ceased. We passed a single Indian hut at the foot of it, where -the river again enlarges itself to the width of two hundred yards, and -at the distance of a mile and a half stopped to view a very bad rapid; -this is formed by two rocky islands which divide the channel, the lower -and larger of which is in the middle of the river. The appearance of -this place was so unpromising, that we unloaded all the most valuable -articles, such as guns, ammunition, our papers, &c. and sent them by -land with all the men that could not swim to the extremity of the -rapids. We then descended with the canoes two at a time, and though -the canoes took in some water, we all went through safely; after which -we made two miles, and stopped in a deep bend of the river towards -the right, and encamped a little above a large village of twenty-one -houses. Here we landed and as it was late before all the canoes joined -us, we were obliged to remain here this evening, the difficulties of -the navigation having permitted us to make only six miles. This village -is situated at the extremity of a deep bend towards the right, and -immediately above a ledge of high rocks, twenty feet above the marks of -the highest flood, but broken in several places, so as to form channels -which are at present dry, extending nearly across the river; this forms -the second fall, or the place most probably which the Indians indicate -by the word Timm. While the canoes were coming on, captain Clarke -walked with two men down to examine these channels. On these rocks -the Indians are accustomed to dry fish, and as the season for that -purpose is now over, the poles which they use are tied up very securely -in bundles, and placed on the scaffolds. The stock of fish dried and -pounded were so abundant that he counted one hundred and seven of -them making more than ten thousand pounds of that provision. After -examining the narrows as well as the lateness of the hour would permit, -he returned to the village though a rocky open country, infested with -polecats. This village, the residence of a tribe called the Echeloots, -consists of twenty-one houses, scattered promiscuously over an elevated -situation, near a mound about thirty feet above the common level, which -has some remains of houses on it, and bears every appearance of being -artificial. - -The houses, which are the first wooden buildings we have seen since -leaving the Illinois country, are nearly equal in size, and exhibit a -very singular appearance. A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in -length, is dug to the depth of six feet. The sides are then lined with -split pieces of timber, rising just above the surface of the ground, -which are smoothed to the same width by burning, or shaved with small -iron axes. These timbers are secured in their erect position by a pole, -stretched along the side of the building near the caves, and supported -on a strong post fixed at each corner. The timbers at the gable ends -rise gradually higher, the middle pieces being the broadest. At the top -of these is a sort of semicircle, made to receive a ridge-pole, the -whole length of the house, propped by an additional post in the middle, -and forming the top of the roof. From this ridge-pole to the eaves of -the house, are placed a number of small poles or rafters, secured at -each end by fibres of the cedar. On these poles, which are connected by -small transverse bars of wood, is laid a covering of the white cedar, -or arbor vitæ, kept on by the strands of the cedar fibres: but a small -distance along the whole length of the ridge-pole is left uncovered for -the purpose of light, and permitting the smoke to pass through. The -roof thus formed has a descent about equal to that common amongst us, -and near the eaves is perforated with a number of small holes, made -most probably to discharge their arrows in case of an attack. The only -entrance is by a small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle -piece of timber, twenty-nine and a half inches high, and fourteen -inches broad, and reaching only eighteen inches above the earth. Before -this hole is hung a mat, and on pushing it aside and crawling through, -the descent is by a small wooden ladder, made in the form of those -used amongst us. One half of the inside is used as a place of deposit -for their dried fish, of which there are large quantities stored away, -and with a few baskets of berries form the only family provisions; the -other half adjoining the door, remains for the accommodation of the -family. On each side are arranged near the walls, small beds of mats -placed on little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from eighteen inches to -three feet from the ground, and in the middle of the vacant space is -the fire, or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is indeed usually -the case, the house contains three families. - -The inhabitants received us with great kindness--invited us to their -houses, and in the evening, after our camp had been formed, came in -great numbers to see us: accompanying them was a principal chief, and -several of the warriors of the nation below the great narrows. We -made use of this opportunity to attempt a reconciliation between them -and our two chiefs, and to put an end to the war which had disturbed -the two nations. By representing to the chiefs the evils which the war -inflicted on them, and the wants and privations to which it subjects -them, they soon became disposed to conciliate with each other, and -we had some reason to be satisfied with the sincerity of the mutual -professions that the war should no longer continue, and that in -future they would live in peace with each other. On concluding this -negotiation we proceeded to invest the chief with the insignia of -command, a medal and some small articles of clothing; after which the -violin was produced, and our men danced to the great delight of the -Indians, who remained with us till a late hour. - -Friday, 25. We walked down with several of the Indians to view the -part of the narrows which they represented as most dangerous: we found -it very difficult, but, as with our large canoes the portage was -impracticable, we concluded on carrying our most valuable articles by -land, and then hazarding the passage. We therefore returned to the -village, and after sending some of the party with our best stores to -make a portage, and fixed others on the rock to assist with ropes the -canoes that might meet with any difficulty, we began the descent, in -the presence of great numbers of Indians who had collected to witness -this exploit. The channel for three miles is worn through a hard -rough black rock from fifty to one hundred yards wide, in which the -water swells and boils in a tremendous manner. The three first canoes -escaped very well; the fourth, however, had nearly filled with water; -the fifth passed through with only a small quantity of water over her. -At half a mile we had got through the worst part, and having reloaded -our canoes went on very well for two and a half miles, except that one -of the boats was nearly lost by running against a rock. At the end -of this channel of three miles, in which the Indians inform us they -catch as many salmon as they wish, we reached a deep basin or bend -of the river towards the right, near the entrance of which are two -rocks. We crossed the basin, which has a quiet and gentle current, and -at the distance of a mile from its commencement, and a little below -where the river resumes its channel, reached a rock which divides it. -At this place we met our old chiefs, who, when we began the portage, -had walked down to a village below to smoke a pipe of friendship on -the renewal of peace. Just after our meeting we saw a chief of the -village above, with a party who had been out hunting, and were then -crossing the river with their horses on their way home. We landed to -smoke with this chief, whom we found a bold looking man of a pleasing -appearance, about fifty years of age, and dressed in a war jacket, a -cap, leggings and moccasins: we presented him with a medal and other -small articles, and he gave us some meat, of which he had been able to -procure but little; for on his route he had met with a war party of -Indians from the Towahnahiooks, between whom there was a battle. We -here smoked a parting pipe with our two faithful friends, the chiefs, -who had accompanied us from the heads of the river, and who now had -each bought a horse, intending to go home by land. On leaving this -rock the river is gentle, but strewed with a great number of rocks for -a few miles, when it becomes a beautiful still stream about half a -mile wide. At five miles from the large bend we came to the mouth of a -creek twenty yards wide, heading in the range of mountains which run -S.S.W. and S.W. for a long distance, and discharging a considerable -quantity of water: it is called by the Indians Quenett. We halted below -it under a high point of rocks on the left; and as it was necessary -to make some celestial observations, we formed a camp on the top of -these rocks. This situation is perfectly well calculated for defence -in case the Indians should incline to attack us, for the rocks form a -sort of natural fortification with the aid of the river and creek, and -is convenient to hunt along the foot of the mountains to the west and -southwest, where there are several species of timber which form fine -coverts for game. From this rock, the pinnacle of the round mountain -covered with snow, which we had seen a short distance below the forks -of the Columbia, and which we had called the Falls or Timm mountain, -is south 43° west, and about thirty-seven miles distant. The face of -the country on both sides of the river above and below the falls is -steep, rugged, and rocky, with a very small proportion of herbage, and -no timber, except a few bushes: the hills, however, to the west, have -some scattered pine, white oak and other kinds of trees. All the timber -used by the people at the upper falls is rafted down the Towahnahiooks; -and those who live at the head of the narrows we have just passed, -bring their wood in the same way from this creek to the lower part of -the narrows, from which it is carried three miles by land to their -habitations. - -Both above and below, as well as in the narrows, we saw a great number -of sea-otter or seals, and this evening one deer was killed, and great -signs of that animal seen near the camp. In the creek we shot a goose, -and saw much appearance of beaver, and one of the party also saw a -fish, which he took to be a drum fish. Among the willows we found -several snares, set by the natives for the purpose of catching wolves. - -Saturday, 26. The morning was fine: we sent six men to hunt and to -collect rosin to pitch the canoes, which, by being frequently hauled -over rocks, have become very leaky. The canoes were also brought out -to dry, and on examination it was found that many of the articles had -become spoiled by being repeatedly wet. We were occupied with the -observations necessary to determine our longitude, and with conferences -among the Indians, many of whom came on horseback to the opposite shore -in the forepart of the day, and showed some anxiety to cross over to -us: we did not however think it proper to send for them, but towards -evening two chiefs with fifteen men came over in a small canoe: they -proved to be the two principal chiefs of the tribes at and above the -falls, who had been absent on a hunting excursion as we passed their -residence: each of them on their arrival made us a present of deer’s -flesh, and small white cakes made of roots. Being anxious to ingratiate -ourselves in their favour so as to insure a friendly reception on -our return, we treated them with all the kindness we could show: we -acknowledged the chiefs, gave a medal of the small size, a red silk -handkerchief, an armband, a knife, and a piece of paint to each chief, -and small presents to several of the party, and half a deer: these -attentions were not lost on the Indians, who appeared very well pleased -with them. At night a fire was made in the middle of our camp, and as -the Indians sat round it our men danced to the music of the violin, -which so delighted them that several resolved to remain with us all -night: the rest crossed the river. All the tribes in this neighborhood -are at war with the Snake Indians, whom they all describe as living -on the Towahnahiooks, and whose nearest town is said to be four days’ -march from this place, and in a direction nearly southwest: there has -lately been a battle between these tribes, but we could not ascertain -the loss on either side. The water rose to-day eight inches, a rise -which we could only ascribe to the circumstance of the wind’s having -been up the river for the last twenty-four hours, since the influence -of the tide cannot be sensible here on account of the falls below. -The hunters returned in the evening; they had seen the tracks of elk -and bear in the mountains, and killed five deer, four very large gray -squirrels, and a grouse: they inform us that the country off the river -is broken, stony, and thinly timbered with pine and white oak; besides -these delicacies one of the men killed with a gig a salmon trout, -which, being fried in some bear’s oil, which had been given to us by -the chief whom we had met this morning below the narrows, furnished a -dish of a very delightful flavour. A number of white cranes were also -seen flying in different directions, but at such a height that we could -not procure any of them. - -The fleas, with whom we had contracted an intimacy at the falls, are so -unwilling to leave us, that the men are obliged to throw off all their -clothes, in order to relieve themselves from their persecution. - -Sunday 27. The wind was high from the westward during last night and -this morning, but the weather being fair we continued our celestial -observations. The two chiefs who remained with us, were joined by -seven Indians, who came in a canoe from below. To these men we were -very particular in our attentions; we smoked and eat with them; but -some of them who were tempted by the sight of our goods exposed to -dry, wished to take liberties with them; to which we were under the -necessity of putting an immediate check: this restraint displeased them -so much, that they returned down the river in a very ill humour. The -two chiefs however remained with us till the evening, when they crossed -the river to their party. Before they went we procured from them a -vocabulary of the Echeloot, their native language, and on comparison -were surprised at its difference from that of the Eneeshur tongue. In -fact although the Echeloots, who live at the great narrows, are not -more than six miles from the Eneeshurs or residents at and above the -great falls, the two people are separated by a broad distinction of -language. The Eneeshurs are understood by all the tribes residing on -the Columbia, above the falls; but at that place they meet with the -unintelligible language of the Echeloots, which then descends the river -to a considerable distance. Yet the variation may possibly be rather -a deep shade of dialect than a radical difference, since among both -many words are the same, and the identity cannot be accounted for by -supposing that their neighbourhood has interwoven them into their daily -conversations, because the same words are equally familiar among all -the Flathead bands which we have passed. To all these tribes too the -strange clucking or guttural noise which first struck us is common. -They also flatten the heads of the children in nearly the same manner, -but we now begin to observe that the heads of the males, as well as -of the other sex, are subjected to this operation, whereas among the -mountains the custom has confined it almost to the females. The hunters -brought home four deer, one grouse, and a squirrel. - -Monday 28. The morning was again cool and windy. Having dried our -goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above -to visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for -the same purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in -a queue, and had on a round hat and a sailor’s jacket, which he said -he had obtained from the people below the great rapids, who bought -them from the whites. This interview detained us till nine o’clock, -when we proceeded down the river, which is now bordered with cliffs -of loose dark coloured rocks about ninety feet high, with a thin -covering of pine and other small trees. At the distance of four miles -we reached a small village of eight houses under some high rocks on -the right, with a small creek on the opposite side of the river. We -landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the great -narrows: on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a cutlass, -and several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very fond. -There were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which were -cut and painted on the boards which form the sides of the room, and -though the workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they -were as highly esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescoes of more -civilized people. This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw, and their -language although somewhat different from that of the Echeloots, -has many of the same words, and is sufficiently intelligible to the -neighbouring Indians. We procured from them a vocabulary, and then -after buying five small dogs, some dried berries, and a white bread -or cake made of roots, we left them. The wind however rose so high, -that we were obliged after going one mile to land on the left side -opposite to a rocky island, and pass the day there. We formed our -camp in a niche above a point of high rocks, and as it was the only -safe harbour we could find, submitted to the inconvenience of lying -on the sand, exposed to the wind and rain during all the evening. The -high wind, which obliged us to consult the safety of our boats by not -venturing further, did not at all prevent the Indians from navigating -the river. We had not been long on shore, before a canoe with a man, -his wife and two children, came from below through the high waves with -a few roots to sell; and soon after we were visited by many Indians -from the village above, with whom we smoked and conversed. The canoes -used by these people are like those already described, built of white -cedar or pine, very light, wide in the middle, and tapering towards the -ends, the bow being raised and ornamented with carvings of the heads -of animals. As the canoe is the vehicle of transportation, the Indians -have acquired great dexterity in the management of it, and guide it -safely over the highest waves. They have among their utensils bowls and -baskets very neatly made of small bark and grass, in which they boil -their provisions. The only game seen to-day were two deer, of which -only one was killed, the other was wounded but escaped. - -Tuesday 29. The morning was still cloudy, and the wind from the west, -but as it had abated its violence, we set out at daylight. At the -distance of four miles we passed a creek on the right, one mile below -which is a village of seven houses on the same side. This is the -residence of the principal chief of the Chilluckittequaw nation, whom -we now found to be the same between whom and our two chiefs we had made -a peace at the Echeloot village. He received us very kindly, and set -before us pounded fish, filberts, nuts, the berries of the Sacacommis, -and white bread made of root. We gave in return a bracelet of riband -to each of the women of the house, with which they were very much -pleased. The chief had several articles, such as scarlet and blue -cloth, a sword, a jacket and hat, which must have been procured from -the whites, and on one side of the room were two wide split boards -placed together, so as to make space for a rude figure of a man cut and -painted on them. On pointing to this and asking them what it meant, he -said something, of which all we understood was “good,” and then stepped -to the image and brought out his bow and quiver, which, with some other -warlike instruments, were kept behind it. The chief then directed his -wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he brought out fourteen -fore-fingers, which he told us had once belonged to the same number of -his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations to the -southeast, to which place he pointed, alluding no doubt to the Snake -Indians, the common enemy of the nations on the Columbia. This bag is -about two feet in length, containing roots, pounded dirt, &c. which -the Indians only know how to appreciate. It is suspended in the middle -of the lodge, and it is supposed to be a species of sacrilege to be -touched by any but the owner. It is an object of religious fear, and -it is from its sanctity the safest place to deposit their medals and -their more valuable articles. The Indians have likewise small bags -which they preserve in their great medicine-bag, from whence they are -taken and worn around their waists and necks as amulets against any -real or imaginary evils. This was the first time we had ever known the -Indians to carry from the field any other trophy except the scalp. -They were shown with great exultation, and after an harangue which we -were left to presume was in praise of his exploits, the fingers were -carefully replaced among the valuable contents of the red medicine-bag. -This village being part of the same nation with the village we passed -above, the language of the two is the same, and their houses of similar -form and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty souls. The -inhabitants were unusually hospitable and good-humoured, so that we -gave to the place the name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted -here, and after purchasing twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few -dried berries, proceeded on our journey. The hills as we passed are -high with steep and rocky sides, and some pine and white oak, and -an undergrowth of shrubs scattered over them. Four miles below this -village is a small river on the right side; immediately below is a -village of Chilluckittequaws, consisting of eleven houses. Here we -landed and smoked a pipe with the inhabitants, who were very cheerful -and friendly. They as well as the people of the last village inform -us, that this river comes a considerable distance from the N.N.E. that -it has a great number of falls, which prevent the salmon from passing -up, and that there are ten nations residing on it who subsist on -berries, or such game as they can procure with their bows and arrows. -At its mouth the river is sixty yards wide, and has a deep and very -rapid channel. From the number of falls of which the Indians spoke, -we gave it the name of Cataract river. We purchased four dogs, and -then proceeded. The country as we advance is more rocky and broken, -and the pine and low whiteoak on the hills increase in great quantity. -Three miles below Cataract river we passed three large rocks in the -river; that in the middle is large and longer than the rest, and from -the circumstance of its having several square vaults on it, obtained -the name of Sepulchre island. A short distance below are two huts of -Indians on the right: the river now widens, and in three miles we came -to two more houses on the right; one mile beyond which is a rocky -island in a bend of the river towards the left. Within the next six -miles we passed fourteen huts of Indians, scattered on the right bank, -and then reached the entrance of a river on the left, which we called -Labieshe’s river, after Labieshe one of our party. Just above this -river is a low ground more thickly timbered than usual, and in front -are four huts of Indians on the bank, which are the first we have seen -on that side of the Columbia. The exception may be occasioned by this -spot’s being more than usually protected from the approach of their -enemies, by the creek, and the thick wood behind. - -We again embarked, and at the distance of a mile passed the mouth of -a rapid creek on the right eighteen yards wide: in this creek the -Indians whom we left take their fish, and from the number of canoes -which were in it, we called it Canoe creek. Opposite to this creek is -a large sandbar, which continues for four miles along the left side of -the river. Just below this a beautiful cascade falls in on the left -over a precipice of rock one hundred feet in height. One mile further -are four Indian huts in the low ground on the left: and two miles -beyond this a point of land on the right, where the mountains become -high on both sides, and possess more timber and greater varieties of -it than hitherto, and those on the left are covered with snow. One -mile from this point we halted for the night at three Indian huts on -the right, having made thirty-two miles. On our first arrival they -seemed surprised, but not alarmed at our appearance, and we soon became -intimate by means of smoking and our favourite entertainment for the -Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, some roots, and root-bread, -and we purchased from them three dogs. The houses of these people are -similar to those of the Indians above, and their language the same: -their dress also, consisting of robes or skins of wolves, deer, elk, -and wild-cat, is made nearly after the same model: their hair is worn -in plaits down each shoulder, and round their neck is put a strip of -some skin with the tail of the animal hanging down over the breast: -like the Indians above they are fond of otter skins, and give a great -price for them. We here saw the skin of a mountain sheep, which they -say live among the rocks in the mountains: the skin was covered with -white hair, the wool long, thick, and coarse, with long coarse hair on -the top of the neck, and the back resembling somewhat the bristles of -a goat. Immediately behind the village is a pond, in which were great -numbers of small swan. - -Wednesday, 30. A moderate rain fell during all last night, but the -morning was cool, and after taking a scanty breakfast of deer, we -proceeded. The river is now about three quarters of a mile wide, with a -current so gentle, that it does not exceed one mile and a half an hour; -but its course is obstructed by the projection of large rocks, which -seemed to have fallen promiscuously from the mountains into the bed -of the river. On the left side four different streams of water empty -themselves in cascades from the hills: what is, however, most singular -is, that there are stumps of pine trees scattered to some distance in -the river, which has the appearance of being dammed below and forced -to encroach on the shore: these obstructions continue till at the -distance of twelve miles, when we came to the mouth of a river on the -right, where we landed: we found it sixty yards wide, and its banks -possess two kinds of timber which we had not hitherto seen: one is a -very large species of ash; the other resembling in its bark the beech; -but the tree itself, as also the leaves, are smaller. We called this -stream Crusatte’s river, after Crusatte, one of our men: opposite to -its mouth the Columbia widens to the distance of a mile, with a large -sandbar, and large stones and rocks scattered through the channel. We -here saw several of the large buzzards, which are of the size of the -largest eagle, with the under part of their wings white: we also shot -a deer and three ducks; on part of which we dined, and then continued -down the Columbia. Above Crusatte’s river the low grounds are about -three quarters of a mile wide, rising gradually to the hills, and with -a rich soil covered with grass, fern, and other small undergrowth; but -below, the country rises with a steep ascent, and soon the mountains -approach to the river with steep rugged sides, covered with a very -thick growth of pine, cedar, cottonwood, and oak. The river is still -strewed with large rocks. Two and a half miles below Crusatte’s river -is a large creek on the right, with a small island in the mouth. Just -below this creek we passed along the right side of three small islands -on the right bank of the river, with a larger island on the opposite -side, and landed on an island very near the right shore at the head -of the great shoot, and opposite two smaller islands at the fall or -shoot itself. Just above the island on which we were encamped is a -small village of eight large houses in a bend on the right, where the -country, from having been very mountainous, becomes low for a short -distance. We had made fifteen miles to-day, during all which time we -were kept constantly wet with the rain; but as we were able to get on -this island some of the ash which we saw for the first time to-day, and -which makes a tolerable fire, we were as comfortable as the moistness -of the evening would permit. As soon as we landed, captain Lewis went -with five men to the village, which is situated near the river, with -ponds in the low grounds behind: the greater part of the inhabitants -were absent collecting roots down the river: the few, however, who -were at home, treated him very kindly, and gave him berries, nuts, -and fish; and in the house were a gun and several articles which must -have been procured from the whites; but not being able to procure any -information, he returned to the island. Captain Clarke had in the -meantime gone down to examine the shoot, and to discover the best route -for a portage. He followed an Indian path, which, at the distance of a -mile, led to a village on an elevated situation, the houses of which -had been large, but built in a different form from any we had yet seen, -but which had been lately abandoned, the greater part of the boards -being put into a pond near the village: this was most probably for the -purpose of drowning the fleas, which were in immense quantities near -the houses. After going about three miles the night obliged him to -return to the camp: he resumed his search in the morning. - -[Illustration: The Great Shoot or Rapid] - -Thursday, 31st, through the rain. At the extremity of the basin, in -which is situated the island where we are encamped, several rocks and -rocky islands are interspersed through the bed of the river. The rocks -on each side have fallen down from the mountains; that on the left -being high, and on the right the hill itself, which is lower, slipping -into the river; so that the current is here compressed within a space -of one hundred and fifty yards. Within this narrow limit it runs for -the distance of four hundred yards with great rapidity, swelling over -the rocks with a fall of about twenty feet: it then widens to two -hundred paces, and the current for a short distance becomes gentle; -but at the distance of a mile and a half, and opposite to the old -village mentioned yesterday, it is obstructed by a very bad rapid, -where the waves are unusually high, the river being confined between -large rocks, many of which are at the surface of the water. Captain -Clarke proceeded along the same path he had taken before, which led him -through a thick wood and along a hill side, till two and a half miles -below the shoots, he struck the river at the place whence the Indians -make their portage to the head of the shoot: he here sent Crusatte, the -principal waterman, up the stream, to examine if it were practicable -to bring the canoes down the water. In the meantime, he, with Joseph -Fields, continued his route down the river, along which the rapids -seem to stretch as far as he could see. At half a mile below the end -of the portage, he came to a house, the only remnant of a town, which, -from its appearance, must have been of great antiquity. The house was -uninhabited, and being old and decayed, he felt no disposition to -encounter the fleas, which abound in every situation of that kind, -and therefore did not enter. About half a mile below this house, in a -very thick part of the woods, is an ancient burial place: it consists -of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards closely connected, about -eight feet square and six in height; the top secured, covered with wide -boards sloping a little, so as to convey off the rain: the direction -of all of them is east and west, the door being on the eastern side, -and partially stopped with wide boards decorated with rude pictures of -men and other animals. On entering we found in some of them four dead -bodies, carefully wrapped in skins, tied with cords of grass and bark, -lying on a mat in a direction east and west: the other vaults contained -only bones, which were in some of them piled to the height of four -feet: on the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, hung -brass kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, baskets, -bowls, sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets and -small bones, the offerings of friendship or affection, which have been -saved by a pious veneration from the ferocity of war, or the more -dangerous temptations of individual gain: the whole of the walls as -well as the door were decorated with strange figures cut and painted -on them; and besides these were several wooden images of men, some of -them so old and decayed as to have almost lost their shape, which were -all placed against the sides of the vaults. These images, as well as -those in the houses we have lately seen, do not appear to be at all the -objects of adoration: in this place they were most probably intended as -resemblances of those whose decease they indicate; and when we observe -them in houses, they occupy the most conspicuous part; but are treated -more like ornaments than objects of worship. Near the vaults which are -standing, are the remains of others on the ground completely rotted and -covered with moss; and as they are formed of the most durable pine and -cedar timber, there is every appearance, that for a very long series -of years this retired spot has been the depository for the Indians -near this place. After examining this place captain Clarke went on, -and found the river as before strewed with large rocks, against which -the water ran with great rapidity. Just below the vaults the mountain, -which is but low on the right side, leaves the river, and is succeeded -by an open stony level, which extends down the river, while on the -left the mountain is still high and rugged. At two miles distance he -came to a village of four houses, which were now vacant and the doors -barred up: on looking in he saw the usual quantity of utensils still -remaining, from which he concluded that the inhabitants were at no -great distance collecting roots or hunting, in order to lay in their -supply of food for the winter; he left them and went on three miles -to a difficult rocky rapid, which was the last in view. Here, on the -right, are the remains of a large and ancient village, which could be -plainly traced by the holes for the houses and the deposits for fish: -after he had examined these rapids and the neighbouring country he -returned to camp by the same route: the only game he had obtained was -a sandhill crane. In the meantime we had been occupied in preparations -for making the portage, and in conference with the Indians, who came -down from the village to visit us. Towards evening two canoes arrived -from the village at the mouth of Cataract river, loaded with fish -and bears’ grease for the market below; as soon as they landed they -unloaded the canoes, turned them upside down on the beach, and encamped -under a shelving rock near our camp. We had an opportunity of seeing -to-day the hardihood of the Indians of the neighbouring village: one -of the men shot a goose, which fell into the river, and was floating -rapidly towards the great shoot, when an Indian observing it plunged in -after it: the whole mass of the waters of the Columbia, just preparing -to descend its narrow channel, carried the animal down with great -rapidity: the Indian followed it fearlessly to within one hundred and -fifty feet of the rocks, where he would inevitably have been dashed -to pieces; but seizing his prey he turned round and swam ashore with -great composure. We very willingly relinquished our right to the bird -in favour of the Indian who had thus saved it at the imminent hazard -of his life: he immediately set to work, and picked off about half -the feathers, and then without opening it ran a stick through it and -carried it off to roast. - -Friday, November 1, 1805. The morning was cool and the wind high from -the northeast. The Indians who arrived last night, took their empty -canoes on their shoulders and carried them below the great shoot, where -they put them in the water and brought them down the rapid, till at -the distance of two and a half miles they stopped to take in their -loading, which they had been afraid to trust in the last rapid, and had -therefore carried by land from the head of the shoot. - -After their example we carried our small canoe, and all the baggage -across the slippery rocks, to the foot of the shoot. The four large -canoes were next brought down, by slipping them along poles, placed -from one rock to another, and in some places by using partially streams -which escaped along side of the river. We were not, however, able to -bring them across without three of them receiving injuries, which -obliged us to stop at the end of the shoot to repair them. At this -shoot we saw great numbers of sea-otters; but they are so shy that -it is difficult to reach them with the musket: one of them that was -wounded to-day sunk and was lost. Having by this portage avoided the -rapid and shoot of four hundred yards in length, we re-embarked, passed -at a mile and a half the bad rapid opposite to the old village on the -right, and making our way through the rocks, saw the house just below -the end of the portage; the eight vaults near it; and at the distance -of four miles from the head of the shoot, reached a high rock, which -forms the upper part of an island near the left shore. Between this -island and the right shore we proceeded, leaving at the distance of a -mile and a half, the village of four houses on our right, and a mile -and a half lower came to the head of a rapid near the village on the -right. Here we halted for the night, having made only seven miles from -the head of the shoot. During the whole of the passage the river is -very much obstructed by rocks. The island, which is about three miles -long, reaches to the rapid which its lower extremity contributes to -form. The meridian altitude of to-day gave us the latitude of 45° 44´ -3´´ north. As we passed the village of four houses, we found that the -inhabitants had returned, and stopped to visit them. The houses are -similar to those already described, but larger, from thirty-five to -fifty feet long, and thirty feet wide, being sunk in the ground about -six feet, and raised the same height above. Their beds are raised -about four feet and a half above the floor, and the ascent is by a new -painted ladder, with which every family is provided, and under them -are stored their dried fish, while the space between the part of the -bed on which they lie and the wall of the house is occupied by the -nuts, roots, berries, and other provisions, which are spread on mats. -The fireplace is about eight feet long, and six feet wide, sunk a foot -below the floor, secured by a frame, with mats placed around for the -family to sit on. In all of the houses are images of men of different -shapes, and placed as ornaments in the parts of the house where they -are most seen. They gave us nuts, berries, and some dried fish to -eat, and we purchased, among other articles, a hat made after their -own taste, such as they wear, without a brim. They ask high prices -for all that they sell, observing that the whites below, pay dearly -for all which they carry there. We cannot learn precisely the nature -of the trade carried on by the Indians with the inhabitants below. -But as their knowledge of the whites seems to be very imperfect, and -the only articles which they carry to market, such as pounded fish, -bear-grass and roots, cannot be an object of much foreign traffic, -their intercourse appears to be an intermediate trade with the natives -near the mouth of the Columbia: from them these people obtain in -exchange for their fish, roots and bear-grass, blue and white beads, -copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and blue robes, and -a few articles of old European clothing. But their great object is to -obtain beads, an article which holds the first place in their ideas -of relative value, and to procure which they will sacrifice their -last article of clothing or the last mouthful of food. Independently -of their fondness for them as an ornament, these beads are the medium -of trade, by which they obtain from the Indians still higher up the -river, robes, skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, &c. Those Indians in -turn, employ them to procure from the Indians in the Rocky mountains, -bear-grass, pachico, roots, robes, &c. - -These Indians are rather below the common size, with high check-bones, -their noses pierced, and in full dress, ornamented with a tapering -piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. Their eyes are -exceedingly sore and weak, many of them have only a single eye, and -some perfectly blind. Their teeth prematurely decayed, and in frequent -instances, altogether worn away. Their general health, however, seems -to be good, the only disorder we have remarked, being, tumours in -different parts of the body. The women are small and homely in their -appearance, their legs and thighs much swelled, and their knees -remarkably large; deformities, which are no doubt owing to the manner -in which they set on their hams. They go nearly naked, having only a -piece of leather tied round the breast, falling thence, nearly as low -as the waist; a small robe about three feet square, and a piece of -leather, which ill supplies the place of a cover, tied between their -legs. Their hair is suffered to hang loose in every direction; and in -their persons, as well as in their cookery, they are filthy to a most -disgusting degree. We here observe that the women universally have -their heads flattened, and in many of the villages, we have lately seen -the female children undergo the operation. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - First appearance of tide water in the Columbia - river--description of the Quicksand river--some account of the - Skilloot Indians--the party pass the river Coweliske--some - account of the Washkiacum Indians--arrival on the borders of - the Pacific--disagreeable and critical situation of the party - when first encamped--their distress occasioned by the incessant - torrents of rain--exposed for thirty days to this drenching - deluge, during which time their provisions are spoiled, and - most of their few articles of merchandise destroyed--distress - of the party--adventure of Shannon and his danger from the - Washkiacums--difficulty of finding a place suitable for a - permanent encampment--visited by several Indians of different - tribes, on whom medals are bestowed. - - -Saturday, November 2. We now examined the rapid below more -particularly, and the danger appearing to be too great for the loaded -canoes, all those who could not swim were sent with the baggage by -land. The canoes then passed safely, and were reloaded; at the foot of -the rapid we took a meridian altitude of 59° 45´ 45´´. Just as we were -setting out seven squaws arrived across the portage loaded with dried -fish and bear-grass, neatly packed in bundles, and soon after four -Indians came down the rapid in a large canoe. After breakfasting we -left our camp at one o’clock, passed the upper point of an island which -is separated from the right shore by a narrow channel, through which -in high tides the water passes. But at present it contains no running -water, and a creek which falls into it from the mountains on the right, -is in the same dry condition, though it has the marks of discharging -immense torrents at some seasons. The island thus made is three miles -in length and about one in width; its situation is high and open, the -land rich, and at this time covered with grass and a great number of -strawberry vines, from which we gave it the name of Strawberry island. -In several places we observed that the Indians had been digging for -roots, and indeed the whole island bears every appearance of having -been at some period in a state of cultivation. On the left side of -the river the low ground is narrow and open: the rapid which we have -just passed is the last of all the descents of the Columbia. At this -place the first tide-water commences, and the river in consequence -widened immediately below the rapid. As we descended, we reached at -the distance of one mile from the rapid a creek under a bluff on the -left, at three miles is the lower point of Strawberry island. To this -immediately succeed three small islands covered with wood; in the -meadow to the right, and at some distance from the hills, stands a high -perpendicular rock, about eight hundred feet high, and four hundred -yards round the base; this we called the Beacon rock. Just below is an -Indian village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. - -At this village the river widens to nearly a mile in extent, the low -grounds too become wider, and they as well as the mountains on each -side are covered with pine, spruce-pine, cottonwood, a species of ash, -and some alder. After being so long accustomed to the dreary nakedness -of the country above, the change is as grateful to the eye, as it is -useful in supplying us with fuel. Four miles from the village is a -point of land on the right, where the hills become lower, but are still -thickly timbered. The river is now about two miles wide, the current -smooth and gentle, and the effect of the tide has been sensible since -leaving the rapid. Six miles lower is a rock rising from the middle of -the river to the height of one hundred feet, and about eighty yards -at its base. We continued six miles further, and halted for the night -under a high projecting rock on the left side of the river opposite the -point of a large meadow. The mountains, which from the great shoot to -this place are high, rugged, and thickly covered with timber chiefly of -the pine species, here leave the river on each side; the river becomes -two and a half miles in width, and the low grounds are extensive and -well supplied with wood. The Indians whom we left at the portage passed -us, on their way down the river, and seven others who were descending -in a canoe for the purpose of trading below, encamped with us. We had -made from the foot of the great shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The -ebb-tide rose at our camp about nine inches, the flood must rise much -higher. We saw great numbers of water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks -of various kinds, gulls, plover, and the white and gray brant, of which -last we killed eighteen. - -Sunday 3. We were detained until ten o’clock by a fog so thick that a -man would not be discerned at the distance of fifty steps. As soon as -it cleared off we set out in company with our new Indian acquaintances, -who came from a village near the great falls. The low grounds along -the river are covered so thickly with rushes, vines, and other small -growth, that they are almost impassable. At the distance of three miles -we reached the mouth of a river on the left, which seemed to lose -its waters in a sandbar opposite; the stream itself being only a few -inches in depth. But on attempting to wade across, we discovered that -the bed was a very bad quicksand, too deep to be passed on foot. We -went up a mile and a half to examine this river, and found it to be at -this distance a very considerable stream one hundred and twenty yards -wide at its narrowest part, with several small islands. Its character -resembles very much that of the river Platte. It drives its quicksand -over the low grounds with great impetuosity, and such is the quantity -of coarse sand which it discharges, that the accumulation has formed a -large sandbar or island, three miles long, and a mile and a half wide, -which divides the waters of the Quicksand river into two channels. This -sand island compresses the Columbia within a space of half a mile, -and throws its whole current against the right shore. Opposite to -this river, which we call Quicksand river, is a large creek to which -we gave the name of Seal river. The first appears to pass through the -low country, at the foot of the high range of mountains towards the -southeast, while the second as well as all the large creeks on the -right side of the Columbia, rise in the same ridge of mountains N.N.E. -from this place. The mountain, which we have supposed to be the mount -Hood of Vancouver, bears S. 85° E. about forty-seven miles from the -mouth of the Quicksand river. After dinner we proceeded, and at the -distance of three miles reached the lower mouth of Quicksand river. On -the opposite side a large creek falls in near the head of an island, -which extends for three miles and a half down the river; it is a mile -and a half in width, rocky at the upper end, has some timber round its -borders, but in the middle is open and has several ponds. Half a mile -lower is another island in the middle of the river, to which from its -appearance we gave the name of Diamond island. Here we met fifteen -Indians ascending the river in two canoes, but the only information we -could procure from them was, that they had seen three vessels, which we -presume to be European, at the mouth of the Columbia. We went along its -right side for three miles, and encamped opposite to it, after making -to-day thirteen miles. A canoe soon after arrived from the village at -the foot of the last rapid, with an Indian and his family, consisting -of a wife, three children, and a woman who had been taken prisoner -from the Snake Indians, living on a river from the south, which we -afterwards found to be the Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately -introduced to her, in hopes that being a Snake Indian also, they -might understand each other, but their language was not sufficiently -intelligible to permit them to converse together. The Indian had a gun -with a brass barrel and cock, which he appeared to value very highly. - -Below Quicksand river the country is low, rich and thickly wooded on -each side of the river: the islands have less timber, but are furnished -with a number of ponds near which are vast quantities of fowls, such -as swan, geese, brants, cranes, storks, white gulls, cormorants and -plover. The river is wide, and contains a great number of sea otters. - -In the evening the hunters brought in game for a sumptuous supper, -which we shared with the Indians, both parties of whom spent the night -with us. - -Monday 4. The weather was cloudy and cool, and the wind from the west. -During the night, the tide rose eighteen inches near our camp. We set -out about eight o’clock, and at the distance of three miles came to -the lower end of Diamond island. It is six miles long, nearly three in -width, and like the other islands, thinly covered with timber, and has -a number of ponds or small lakes scattered over its surface. Besides -the animals already mentioned we shot a deer on it this morning. -Near the end of Diamond island are two others, separated by a narrow -channel filled at high tides only, which continue on the right for -the distance of three miles, and like the adjacent low grounds, are -thickly covered with pine. Just below the last, we landed on the left -bank of the river, at a village of twenty five houses; all of these -were thatched with straw, and built of bark, except one which was -about fifty feet long, built of boards in the form of those higher up -the river, from which it differed however, in being completely above -ground, and covered with broad split boards; this village contains -about two hundred men of the Skilloot nation, who seem well provided -with canoes, of which there were at least fifty-two, and some of them -very large, drawn up in front of the village. On landing we found the -Indian from above, who had left us this morning, and who now invited -us into a lodge of which he appeared to own a part. Here he treated -us with a root, round in shape, and about the size of a small Irish -potatoe, which they call wappatoo, it is the common arrowhead or -sagittifolia, so much cultivated by the Chinese, and when roasted in -the embers till it becomes soft, has an agreeable taste, and is a -very good substitute for bread. After purchasing some more of this -root, we resumed our journey, and at seven miles distance came to the -head of a large island near the left. On the right shore is a fine -open prairie for about a mile, back of which the country rises, and -is supplied with timber, such as white oak, pine of different kinds, -wild crab, and several species of undergrowth, while along the borders -of the river, there are only a few cottonwood and ash trees. In this -prairie were also signs of deer and elk. When we landed for dinner, a -number of Indians from the last village, came down for the purpose, -as we supposed, of paying us a friendly visit, as they had put on -their favourite dresses. In addition to their usual covering they had -scarlet and blue blankets, sailors’ jackets and trowsers, shirts and -hats. They had all of them either war axes, spears and bow arrows, or -muskets and pistols, with tin powder flasks. We smoked with them and -endeavoured to show them every attention, but we soon found them very -assuming and disagreeable companions. While we were eating they stole -the pipe with which they were smoking, and the great coat of one of the -men. We immediately searched them all, and discovered the coat stuffed -under the root of a tree near where they were sitting; but the pipe we -could not recover. Finding us determined not to suffer any imposition, -and discontented with them, they showed their displeasure in the only -way which they dared, by returning in an ill humour to their village. -We then proceeded and soon met two canoes with twelve men of the same -Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the -canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow, and a -man in the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted -wood, and very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two -Indians finely dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced -us to give the name of Image canoe to the large island, the lower end -of which we now passed at the distance of nine miles from its head. -We had seen two smaller islands to the right, and three more near its -lower extremity. The Indians in the canoe here made signs that there -was a village behind those islands, and indeed we presumed there was -a channel on that side of the river, for one of the canoes passed in -that direction between the small islands, but we were anxious to press -forward, and therefore did not stop to examine more minutely. The river -was now about a mile and a half in width, with a gentle current, the -bottoms extensive and low, but not subject to be overflowed. Three -miles below the Image canoe island we came to four large houses on the -left side, at which place we had a full view of the mountain which -we first saw on the 19th of October, from the Muscleshell rapid, and -which we now find to be the mount St. Helen of Vancouver. It bears -north 25° east, about ninety miles distant; it rises in the form of a -sugar-loaf to a very great height, and is covered with snow. A mile -lower we passed a single house on the left, and another on the right. -The Indians had now learnt so much of us, that their curiosity was -without any mixture of fear, and their visits became very frequent and -troublesome. We therefore continued on till after night, in hopes of -getting rid of them; but after passing a village on each side, which on -account of the lateness of the hour we saw indistinctly, we found there -was no escaping from their importunities. We therefore landed at the -distance of seven miles below Image canoe island, and encamped near a -single house on the right, having made during the day twenty-nine miles. - -The Skilloots whom we passed to-day, speak a language somewhat -different from that of the Echeloots or Chilluekittequaws near the long -narrows. Their dress is similar, except that the Skilloots possess -more articles procured from the white traders; and there is further -difference between them, inasmuch as the Skilloots, both males and -females, have the head flattened. Their principal food is fish, and -wappatoo roots, and some elk and deer, in killing which with their -arrows, they seem very expert, for during the short time we remained -at the village three deer were brought in. We also observed there a -tame brairo. - -As soon as we landed we were visited by two canoes loaded with -Indians, from whom we purchased a few roots. The grounds along the -river continue low and rich, and the shrubs which cover them is a -large quantity of vines resembling the raspberry. On the right the low -grounds are terminated at the distance of five miles by a range of high -hills covered with tall timber, and running southeast and northwest. -The game as usual very abundant, and among other birds we observe some -white geese with a part of their wings black. - -Tuesday, 5. Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a -sand island opposite to us were immense numbers of geese, swan-ducks, -and other wild fowl, who, during the whole night, serenaded us with a -confusion of noises which completely prevented our sleeping. During the -latter part of the night it rained, and we therefore willingly left our -encampment at an early hour. We passed at three miles a small prairie, -where the river is only three quarters of a mile in width, and soon -after two houses on the left, half a mile distant from each other; from -one of which three men came in a canoe merely to look at us, and having -done so returned home. At eight miles we came to the lower point of an -island, separated from the right side by a narrow channel, on which, -a short distance above the end of the island, is situated a large -village: it is built more compactly than the generality of the Indian -villages, and the front has fourteen houses, which are ranged for a -quarter of a mile along the channel. As soon as we were discovered -seven canoes came out to see us, and after some traffic during which -they seemed well-disposed and orderly, accompanied us a short distance -below. The river here again widens to the space of a mile and a half. -As we descended we soon observed, behind a sharp point of rocks, a -channel a quarter of a mile wide, which we suppose must be the one -taken by the canoes yesterday on leaving Image-canoe island. A mile -below the channel are some low cliffs of rocks, near which is a large -island on the right side, and two small islands a little further on. -Here we met two canoes ascending the river. At this place the shore on -the right becomes bold and rocky, and the bank is bordered by a range -of high hills covered with a thick growth of pine: on the other side -is an extensive low island, separated from the left side by a narrow -channel. Here we stopped to dine, and found the island open, with an -abundant growth of grass, and a number of ponds well supplied with -fowls; and at the lower extremity are the remains of an old village. We -procured a swan, several ducks, and a brant, and saw some deer on the -island. Besides this island, the lower extremity of which is seventeen -miles from the channel just mentioned, we passed two or three smaller -ones in the same distance. Here the hills on the right retire from the -river, leaving a high plain, between which, on the left bank, a range -of high hills running southeast and covered with pine, forms a bold -and rocky shore. At the distance of six miles, however, these hills -again return and close the river on both sides. We proceeded on, and at -four miles reached a creek on the right, about twenty yards in width, -immediately below which is an old village. Three miles further, and at -the distance of thirty-two miles from our camp of last night, we halted -under a point of highland, with thick pine trees on the left bank of -the river. Before landing we met two canoes, the largest of which had -at the bow the image of a bear, and that of a man on the stern: there -were twenty-six Indians on board, but they all proceeded upwards, and -we were left, for the first time since we reached the waters of the -Columbia, without any of the natives with us during the night. Besides -the game already mentioned, we killed a grouse much larger than the -common size, and observed along the shore a number of striped snakes. -The river is here deep, and about a mile and a half in width. Here -too the ridge of low mountains running northwest and southeast, cross -the river, and form the western boundary of the plain through which we -have just passed. This great plain or valley begins above the mouth -of Quicksand river, and is about sixty miles wide in a straight line, -while on the right and left it extends to a great distance: it is a -fertile and delightful country, shaded by thick groves of tall timber, -watered by small ponds, and running on both sides of the river. The -soil is rich, and capable of any species of culture; but in the present -condition of the Indians, its chief production is the wappatoo root, -which grows spontaneously and exclusively in this region. Sheltered -as it is on both sides, the temperature is much milder than that of -the surrounding country; for even at this season of the year, we -observe very little appearance of frost. During its whole extent it -is inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, who either reside in it -permanently, or visit its waters in quest of fish and wappatoo roots: -we gave it the name of the Columbia valley. - -Wednesday, 6. The morning was cool, wet, and rainy. We proceeded at an -early hour between the high hills on both sides of the river, till at -the distance of four miles we came to two tents of Indians in a small -plain on the left, where the hills on the right recede a few miles from -the river, and a long narrow island stretches along the right shore. -Behind this island is the mouth of a large river a hundred and fifty -yards wide, and called by the Indians, Coweliske. We halted for dinner -on the island, but the red wood and green briars are so interwoven with -the pine, alder, ash, a species of beech, and other trees, that the -woods form a thicket, which our hunters could not penetrate. Below the -mouth of the Coweliske a very remarkable knob rises from the water’s -edge to the height of eighty feet, being two hundred paces round the -base; and as it is in a low part of the island, and some distance from -the high grounds, the appearance of it is very singular. On setting -out after dinner we overtook two canoes going down to trade: one of -the Indians, who spoke a few words of English, mentioned, that the -principal person who traded with them was a Mr. Haley, and he showed a -bow of iron and several other things which he said Mr. Haley had given -him. Nine miles below that river is a creek on the same; and between -them three smaller islands; one on the left shore, the other about the -middle of the river; and a third near the lower end of the long narrow -island, and opposite a high cliff of black rocks on the left, sixteen -miles from our camp. Here we were overtaken by the Indians from the two -tents we passed in the morning, from whom we now purchased wappatoo -roots, salmon, trout, and two beaver skins, for which last we gave five -small fish-hooks. At these cliffs the mountains, which had continued -high and rugged on the left, retired from the river, and as the hills -on the other side had left the water at the Coweliske, a beautiful -extensive plain now presented itself before us: for a few miles we -passed along side of an island a mile in width and three miles long, -below which is a smaller island, where the high rugged hills, thickly -covered with timber, border the right bank of the river, and terminate -the low grounds: these were supplied with common rushes, grass, and -nettles; in the moister parts with bullrushes and flags, and along the -water’s edge some willows. Here also were two ancient villages, now -abandoned by their inhabitants, of whom no vestige remains, except -two small dogs almost starved, and a prodigious quantity of fleas. -After crossing the plain and making five miles, we proceeded through -the hills for eight miles. The river is about a mile in width, and -the hills so steep that we could not for several miles find a place -sufficiently level to suffer us to sleep in a level position: at -length, by removing the large stones, we cleared a place fit for our -purpose above the reach of the tide, and after a journey of twenty-nine -miles slept among the smaller stones under a mountain to the right. The -weather was rainy during the whole day: we therefore made large fires -to dry our bedding and to kill the fleas, who have accumulated upon us -at every old village we have passed. - -Thursday 7. The morning was rainy and the fog so thick that we could -not see across the river. We observed however, opposite to our camp, -the upper point of an island, between which and the steep hills on the -right we proceeded for five miles. Three miles lower is the beginning -of an island separated from the right shore by a narrow channel; down -this we proceeded under the direction of some Indians whom we had just -met going up the river, and who returned in order to show us their -village. It consists of four houses only, situated on this channel -behind several marshy islands formed by two small creeks. On our -arrival they gave us some fish, and we afterwards purchased wappatoo -roots, fish, three dogs, and two otter skins, for which we gave -fish-hooks chiefly, that being an article of which they are very fond. - -These people seem to be of a different nation from those we have just -passed: they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all have their heads -flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, and their language differs -from that of the tribes above, with whom they trade for wappatoo roots. -The houses too are built in a different style, being raised entirely -above ground, with the eaves about five feet high, and the door at -the corner. Near the end opposite to this door is a single fireplace, -round which are the beds, raised four feet from the floor of earth; -over the fire are hung the fresh fish, and when dried they are stowed -away with the wappatoo roots under the beds. The dress of the men is -like that of the people above, but the women are clad in a peculiar -manner, the robe not reaching lower than the hip, and the body being -covered in cold weather by a sort of corset of fur, curiously plaited, -and reaching from the arms to the hip; added to this is a sort of -petticoat, or rather tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or broken -into small strands, and woven into a girdle by several cords of the -same material. Being tied round the middle, these strands hang down as -low as the knee in front, and to midleg behind, and are of sufficient -thickness to answer the purpose of concealment whilst the female -stands in an erect position, but in any other attitude is but a very -ineffectual defence. Sometimes the tissue is strings of silk grass, -twisted and knotted at the end. - -After remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded down the channel -with an Indian dressed in a sailor’s jacket for our pilot, and on -reaching the main channel were visited by some Indians who have a -temporary residence on a marshy island in the middle of the river, -where is a great abundance of water fowl. Here the mountainous country -again approaches the river on the left, and a higher mountain is -distinguished towards the southwest. At a distance of twenty miles -from our camp we halted at a village of Wahkiacums, consisting of -seven ill-looking houses, built in the same form with those above, -and situated at the foot of the high hills on the right, behind two -small marshy islands. We merely stopped to purchase some food and two -beaver skins, and then proceeded. Opposite to these islands the hills -on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind of bay crowded -with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally by the tide. -We had not gone far from this village when the fog cleared off, and we -enjoyed the delightful prospect of the ocean; that ocean, the object -of all our labours, the reward of all our anxieties. This cheering -view exhilarated the spirits of all the party, who were still more -delighted on hearing the distant roar of the breakers. We went on with -cheerfulness under the high, mountainous country which continued along -the right bank; the shore was however so bold and rocky, that we could -not, until after going fourteen miles from the last village, find any -spot fit for an encampment. At that distance, having made during the -day thirty-four miles, we spread our mats on the ground, and passed the -night in the rain. Here we were joined by our small canoe, which had -been separated from us during the fog this morning. Two Indians from -the last village also accompanied us to the camp, but, having detected -them in stealing a knife, they were sent off. - -[Illustration: Mouth of Columbia River] - -Friday 8. It rained this morning; and having changed the clothing which -had been wet during yesterday’s rain, we did not set out till nine -o’clock. Immediately opposite our camp is a rock at the distance of a -mile in the river, about twenty feet in diameter and fifty in height, -and towards the southwest some high mountains, one of which is covered -with snow at the top. We proceeded past several low islands in the -bay or bend of the river to the left, which is here five or six miles -wide. We were here overtaken by three Indians in a canoe who had salmon -to sell. On the right side we passed an old village, and then, at the -distance of three miles, entered an inlet or niche about six miles -across, and making a deep bend of nearly five miles into the hills -on the right shore, where it receives the waters of several creeks. -We coasted along this inlet, which, from its little depth, we called -Shallow bay, and at the bottom of it halted to dine near the remains of -an old village, from which, however, we kept at a cautious distance, as -it was occupied by great numbers of fleas. At this place we observed a -number of fowl, among which we killed a goose and two ducks, exactly -resembling in appearance and flavour the canvass-back duck of the -Susquehannah. After dinner the three Indians left us, and we then took -advantage of the returning tide, to go on about three miles to a point -on the right, eight miles distant from our camp; but here the waves -ran so high, and dashed about our canoes so much, that several of the -men became seasick. It was therefore judged imprudent to go on in the -present state of the weather, and we landed at the point. The situation -was extremely uncomfortable; the high hills jutted in so closely that -there was not room for us to lie level, nor to secure our baggage free -from the tide; and the water of the river is too salt to be used; but -the waves increasing every moment so much, that we could not move from -the spot with safety: we therefore fixed ourselves on the beach left -by the ebb-tide, and having raised the baggage on poles, passed a -disagreeable night, the rain during the day having wet us completely, -as indeed we have been for some days past. - -Saturday 9. Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our -camp during the night; but being accompanied by high winds from the -south, the canoes, which we could not place beyond its reach, were -filled with water, and were saved with much difficulty; our position -was very uncomfortable, but as it was impossible to move from it, we -waited for a change of weather. It rained, however, during the whole -day, and at two o’clock in the afternoon, the flood tide set in, -accompanied by a high wind from the south, which, about four o’clock, -shifted to the southwest, and blew almost a gale directly from the sea. -The immense waves now broke over the place where we were encamped, and -the large trees, some of them five or six feet thick, which had lodged -at the point, were drifted over our camp, and the utmost vigilance of -every man could scarcely save our canoes from being crushed to pieces. -We remained in the water and drenched with rain during the rest of the -day; our only food being some dried fish, and some rain-water which we -caught. Yet, though wet and cold, and some of them sick from using the -salt-water, the men are cheerful, and full of anxiety to see more of -the ocean. The rain continued all night, and, - -Sunday 10th, the following morning, the wind, however, lulled, and -the waves not being so high, we loaded our canoes and proceeded. The -mountains on the right are high, covered with timber, chiefly pine, -and descend in a bold and rocky shore to the water. We went through a -deep niche and several inlets on the right, while on the opposite side -is a large bay, above which the hills are close on the river. At the -distance of ten miles the wind rose from the northwest and the waves -became so high that we were forced to return for two miles to a place -where we could with safety unload. Here we landed at the mouth of a -small run, and having placed our baggage on a pile of drifted logs -waited until low water. The river then appeared more calm: we therefore -started, but after going a mile found the waves too high for our canoes -and were obliged to put to shore. We unloaded the canoes, and having -placed the baggage on a rock above the reach of the tide, encamped on -some drift logs which formed the only place where we could lie, the -hills rising steep over our heads to the height of five hundred feet. -All our baggage as well as ourselves were thoroughly wet with the rain, -which did not cease during the day; it continued violently during the -night, in the course of which the tide reached the logs on which we -lay, and set them afloat. - -Monday, 11. The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the -waves against the shore with great fury: the rain too fell in torrents, -and not only drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones on the -hill sides, which then came rolling down upon us. In this comfortless -situation we remained all day wet, cold, with nothing but dried fish to -satisfy our hunger; the canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves; -the baggage in another, and all the men scattered on floating logs, -or sheltering themselves in the crevices of the rocks and hill sides. -A hunter was despatched in hopes of finding some fresh meat, but the -hills were so steep, and covered with undergrowth and fallen timber, -that he could not penetrate them, and he was forced to return. About -twelve o’clock we were visited by five Indians in a canoe: they came -from above this place on the opposite side of the river, and their -language much resembles that of the Wahkiacum: they called themselves -_Cathlamahs_. In person they are small, ill made, and badly clothed; -though one of them had on a sailor’s round jacket and pantaloons, -which, as he explained by signs, he had received from the whites below -the point: we purchased from them thirteen red charr, a fish which we -found very excellent. After some time they went on board the boat, and -crossed the river, which is here five miles wide, through a very heavy -sea. - -Tuesday, 12. About three o’clock a tremendous gale of wind arose, -accompanied with lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it became light -for a short time, but a violent rain soon began and lasted during the -day. During this storm one of our boats, secured by being sunk with -great quantities of stone, got loose, but drifting against a rock, was -recovered without having received much injury. Our situation became now -much more dangerous, for the waves were driven with fury against the -rocks and trees, which till now had afforded us refuge: we therefore -took advantage of a low tide, and moved about half a mile round a point -to a small brook, which we had not observed till now on account of the -thick bushes and driftwood which concealed its mouth. Here we were more -safe; but still cold and wet, our clothes and bedding rotten as well -as wet, our baggage at a distance, and the canoes, our only means of -escape from this place, at the mercy of the waves: we were, however, -fortunate enough to enjoy good health, and even had the luxury of -getting some fresh salmon and three salmon trout in the brook. Three of -the men attempted to go round a point in our small Indian canoe, but -the high waves rendered her quite unmanageable; these boats requiring -the seamanship of the natives themselves to make them live in so rough -a sea. - -Wednesday, 13. During the night we had short intervals of fair weather, -but it began to rain in the morning, and continued through the day. In -order to obtain a view of the country below, captain Clarke followed -up the course of the brook, and with much fatigue, and after walking -three miles, ascended the first spur of the mountains. The whole lower -country was covered with almost impenetrable thickets of small pine, -with which is mixed a species of plant resembling arrowwood; twelve -or fifteen feet high, with a thorny stem, almost interwoven with -each other, and scattered among the fern and fallen timber: there is -also a red berry, somewhat like the solomon’s seal, which is called -by the natives, solme, and used as an article of diet. This thick -growth rendered travelling almost impossible, and it was rendered more -fatiguing by the steepness of the mountain, which was so great as to -oblige him to draw himself up by means of the bushes. The timber on the -hills is chiefly of a large tall species of pine, many of them eight -or ten feet in diameter at the stump, and rising sometimes more than -one hundred feet in height. The hail which fell two nights since is -still to be seen on the mountains: there was no game, and no traces of -any, except some old signs of elk: the cloudy weather prevented his -seeing to any distance, and he therefore returned to camp, and sent -three men in the Indian canoe to try if they could double the point and -find some safer harbour for our canoes. At every flood-tide the seas -break in great swells against the rocks, and drifts the trees among our -establishment, so as to render it very insecure. We were confined as -usual to dried fish, which is our last resource. - -Thursday, 14. It rained without intermission during last night and -to-day; the wind too is very high, and one of our canoes much injured -by being dashed against rocks. Five Indians from below came to us in -a canoe, and three of them having landed, informed us that they had -seen the men sent down yesterday. At this moment one of them arrived, -and informed us that these Indians had stolen his gig and basket: we -therefore ordered the two women who remained in the canoe, to restore -them; but this they refused, till we threatened to shoot, when they -gave back the articles, and we then ordered them to leave us. They -were of the Wahkiacum nation. The man now informed us that they had -gone round the point as far as the high sea would suffer them in the -canoe, and then landed, and that in the night he had separated from -his companions, who had gone further down: that at no great distance -from where we are is a beautiful sand beach and a good harbour. Captain -Lewis concluded to examine more minutely the lower part of the bay, -and taking one of the large canoes was landed at the point, whence he -proceeded by land with four men, and the canoe returned nearly filled -with water. - -Friday, 15. It continued raining all night, but in the morning the -weather became calm and fair: we therefore began to prepare for setting -out, but before we were ready a high wind sprang up from the southeast, -and obliged us to remain. The sun shone until one o’clock, and we were -thus enabled to dry our bedding and examine our baggage. The rain, -which has continued for the last ten days without an interval of more -than two hours, has completely wet all our merchandise, and spoiled -some of our fish, destroyed the robes, and rotted nearly one half -of our few remaining articles of clothing, particularly the leather -dresses. About three o’clock the wind fell, and we instantly loaded -the canoes, and left the miserable spot to which we have been confined -the last six days. On turning the point we came to the sand beach, -through which runs a small stream from the hills; at the mouth of which -is an ancient village of thirty-six houses, which has at present no -inhabitants except fleas. Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back -to meet us by captain Lewis. The day Shannon left us in the canoe, -he and Willard proceeded on till they met a party of twenty Indians, -who never having heard of us, did not know where they came from: they -however behaved with so much civility, and seemed so anxious that -the men should go with them towards the sea, that their suspicions -were excited, and they declined going on: the Indians, however, would -not leave them, and the men being confirmed in their suspicions, and -fearful if they went into the woods to sleep they would be cut to -pieces in the night, thought it best to pass the night in the midst of -the Indians: they therefore made a fire, and after talking with them -to a late hour, laid down with their rifles under their heads. As they -awoke this morning they found that the Indians had stolen and concealed -their guns: having demanded them in vain, Shannon seized a club, and -was about assaulting one of the Indians whom he suspected as a thief, -when another Indian began to load a fowling piece with an intention -of shooting him. He therefore stopped and explained by signs, that if -they did not give up the guns, a large party would come down the river -before the sun rose to such a height, and put every one of them to -death. Fortunately, captain Lewis and his party appeared at this time, -and the terrified Indians immediately brought the guns, and five of -them came on with Shannon. To these men we declared, that if ever any -of their nation stole any thing from us he should be instantly shot. -They reside to the north of this place, and speak a language different -from that of the people higher up the river. It was now apparent that -the sea was at all times too rough for us to proceed further down the -bay by water: we therefore landed, and having chosen the best spot we -could select, made our camp of boards from the old village. We were -now situated comfortably, and being visited by four Wahkiacums with -wappatoo roots, were enabled to make an agreeable addition to our food. - -Saturday 16. The morning was clear and beautiful. We therefore, put -out all our baggage to dry, and sent several of the party to hunt. Our -camp is in full view of the ocean, on the bay laid down by Vancouver, -which we distinguish by the name of Haley’s bay, from a trader who -visits the Indians here, and is a great favourite among them. The -meridian altitude of this day gave 46° 19´ 11´´ ⁷/₁₀ as the latitude of -our camp. The wind was strong from the southwest, and the waves very -high, yet the Indians were passing up and down the bay in canoes, and -several of them encamped near us. We smoked with them, but after our -recent experience of their thievish disposition, treated them with -caution. Though so much exposed to the bad weather, none of the party -have suffered, except one, who has a violent cold, in consequence of -sleeping for several nights in wet leather. The hunters brought in two -deer, a crane, some geese and ducks, and several brant, three of which -were white, except a black part of the wing, and much larger than the -gray brant, which is itself a size beyond the duck. - -Sunday 17. A fair cool morning and easterly wind. The tide rises at -this place eight feet six inches in height, and rolls over the beach in -great waves. - -About one o’clock captain Lewis returned, after having coasted down -Haley’s bay to cape Disappointment, and some distance to the north -along the sea coast. He was followed by several Chinnooks, among whom -were the principal chief and his family. They made us a present of a -boiled root, very much like the common liquorice in taste and size, and -called culwhamo: in return we gave double the value of their present, -and now learnt the danger of accepting any thing from them, since no -return, even if ten times the value of their gift, can satisfy them. -We were chiefly occupied in hunting, and were able to procure three -deer, four brant and two ducks, and also saw some signs of elk. Captain -Clarke now prepared for an excursion down the bay, and accordingly -started, - -Monday 18, at daylight, accompanied by eleven men. He proceeded along -the beach one mile to a point of rocks about forty feet high, where the -hills retire, leaving a wide beach, and a number of ponds covered with -water-fowl, between which and the mountain is a narrow bottom of alder -and small balsam trees. Seven miles from the rocks is the entrance of -a creek, or rather drain from the ponds and hills, where is a cabin of -Chinnooks. The cabin contained some children, and four women, one of -whom was in a most miserable state, covered with ulcers, proceeding -as we imagine, from the venereal disease, with which several of the -Chinnooks we have seen appear to be afflicted. We were taken across in -a canoe by two squaws, to each of whom we gave a fish-hook, and then -coasting along the bay, passed at two miles the low bluff of a small -hill, below which are the ruins of some old huts, and close to it the -remains of a whale. The country is low, open and marshy; interspersed -with some high pine and a thick undergrowth. Five miles from the creek, -we came to a stream forty yards wide at low water, which we called -Chinnook river. The hills up this river and towards the bay are not -high, but very thickly covered with large pine of several species: -in many places pine trees, three or four feet in thickness, are seen -growing on the bodies of large trees, which though fallen and covered -with moss, were in part sound. Here we dined on some brant and plover, -killed as we came along, and after crossing in a boat lying in the sand -near some old houses, proceeded along a bluff of yellow clay and soft -stone to a little bay or harbour, into which a drain from some ponds -empties: at this harbour the land is low, but as we went on it rose to -hills of eighty or ninety feet above the water. At the distance of one -mile is a second bay, and a mile beyond it, a small rocky island in a -deep bend, which seems to afford a very good harbour, and where the -natives inform us European vessels anchor for the purpose of trading. -We went on round another bay, in which is a second small island of -rocks, and crossed a small stream, which rises in a pond near the -sea coast, and after running through a low isthmus empties into the -bay. This narrow low ground, about two or three hundred yards wide, -separates from the main hills a kind of peninsula, the extremity of -which is two miles from the anchoring place; and this spot, which was -called cape Disappointment, is an elevated, circular knob, rising with -a steep ascent one hundred and fifty or one hundred and sixty feet -above the water, formed like the whole shore of the bay, as well as -of the seacoast, and covered with thick timber on the inner side, but -open and grassy in the exposure next the sea. From this cape a high -point of land bears south 20° west, about twenty-five miles distant. -In the range between these two eminences, is the opposite point of -the bay, a very low ground, which has been variously called cape Rond -by Lapeyrouse, and point Adams by Vancouver. The water for a great -distance off the mouth of the river, appears very shallow, and within -the mouth nearest to point Adams, is a large sandbar, almost covered at -high tide. We could not ascertain the direction of the deepest channel, -for the waves break with tremendous force the whole distance across -the bay, but the Indians point nearer to the opposite side as the best -passage. After remaining for some time on this elevation, we descended -across the low isthmus, and reached the ocean at the foot of a high -hill, about a mile in circumference, and projecting into the sea. We -crossed this hill, which is open and has a growth of high coarse grass, -and encamped on the north side of it, having made nineteen miles. -Besides the pounded fish and brant, we had for supper a flounder, which -we picked up on the beach. - -Tuesday 19. In the night it began to rain, and continued till eleven -o’clock. Two hunters were sent on to kill something for breakfast, and -the rest of the party after drying their blankets soon followed. At -three miles we overtook the hunters, and breakfasted on a small deer, -which they had been fortunate enough to kill. This, like all those we -have seen on this coast, are much darker than our common deer. Their -bodies too, are deeper, their legs shorter, and their eyes larger. The -branches of the horns are similar, but the upper part of the tail is -black, from the root to the end, and they do not leap, but jump like -a sheep frightened. We then continued over rugged hills and steep -hollows, near the sea, on a course about north 20° west, in a direct -line from the cape, till at the distance of five miles, we reached a -point of high land, below which a sandy beach extends, in a direction -north 10° west, to another high point about twenty miles distant. This -eminence we distinguished by the name of point Lewis. It is there that -the highlands, which at the commencement of the sandy beach, recede -towards Chinnook river, again approach the ocean. The intermediate -country is low, with many small ponds, crowded with birds, and watered -by the Chinnook, on the borders of which resides the nation of the same -name. We went four miles along the sandy beach to a small pine tree, on -which captain Clarke marked his name, with the year and day, and then -returned to the foot of the hills, passing on the shore a sturgeon ten -feet long, and several joints of the back bone of a whale, both which -seem to have been thrown ashore and foundered. After dining on the -remains of the small deer, we crossed in a southeastern direction to -the bay, where we arrived at the distance of two miles, then continued -along the bay, crossed Chinnook river, and encamped on its upper side, -in a sandy bottom. - -Wednesday 20. It rained in the course of the night. A hunter despatched -early to kill some food, returned with eight ducks, on which we -breakfasted, and then followed the course of the bay to the creek or -outlet of the ponds. It was now high tide, the stream three hundred -yards wide, and no person in the cabin to take us across. We therefore -made a small raft, on which one of the men passed and brought a canoe -to carry us over. As we went along the beach we were overtaken by -several Indians, who gave us dried sturgeon and wappatoo roots, and -soon met several parties of Chinnooks returning from the camp. When we -arrived there we found many Chinnooks, and two of them being chiefs, we -went through the ceremony of giving to each a medal, and to the most -distinguished a flag. Their names were Comcommoly and Chillahlawil. One -of the Indians had a robe made of two sea-otter skins, the fur of which -was the most beautiful we had ever seen; the owner resisted every -temptation to part with it, but at length could not resist the offer -of a belt of blue beads which Chaboneau’s wife wore round her waist. -During our absence the camp had been visited by many Indians, and the -men who had been employed in hunting killed several deer, and a variety -of wild fowls. - -Thursday 21. The morning was cloudy, and from noon till night it -rained. The wind too was high from the southeast, and the sea so rough -that the water reached our camp. Most of the Chinnooks returned home, -but we were visited in the course of the day by people of different -bands in the neighbourhood, among whom are the Chiltz, a nation -residing on the seacoast near Point Lewis, and the Clatsops, who live -immediately opposite on the south side of the Columbia. A chief from -the grand rapid also came to see us, and we gave him a medal. To each -of our visitors we made a present of a small piece of riband, and -purchased some cranberries and some articles of their manufacture, such -as mats, and household furniture, for all which we paid high prices. -After we had been relieved from these Indians, we were surprised at a -visit of a different kind; an old woman who is the wife of a Chinnook -chief, came with six young women, her daughters and nieces, and having -deliberately encamped near us, proceeded to cultivate an intimacy -between our men and her fair wards. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - Extravagant passion of the natives for blue beads, which - constitute amongst them the circulating medium of the - country--the party still in search of a suitable place for - winter quarters--still suffering from the constant deluges - of rain--are visited by the Indians, with whom they traffic - but little, on account of the extravagant prices they ask for - every article--return of captain Lewis, who reports that he - has found a suitable place for winter quarters--the rain still - continues--they prepare to form an encampment on a point of - highland on the banks of the river Nutel--captain Clarke goes - with a party to find a place suitable for the manufacture - of salt--he is hospitably entertained by the Clatsops--this - tribe addicted to the vice of gambling--sickness of some of - the party, occasioned by the incessant rains--they form, - notwithstanding, a permanent encampment for their winter - quarters. - - -Friday 22. It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a -tremendous gale of wind rose from the S.S.E. and continued during the -whole day with great violence. The sea runs so high that the water -comes into our camp, which the rain prevents us from leaving. We -purchased from the old squaw for armbands and rings, a few wappatoo -roots, on which we subsisted. They are nearly equal in flavour to the -Irish potatoe, and afford a very good substitute for bread. The bad -weather has driven several Indians to our camp, but they are still -under the terrors of the threat which we made on first seeing them, and -now behave with the greatest decency. - -Saturday 23. The rain continued through the night, but the morning was -calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out and killed three deer, four -brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over in -a canoe with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attach -an extravagant value, and their demands for it were so high that we -were fearful of reducing our small stock of merchandise, on which we -must depend for subsistence as we return, to venture on purchasing. To -ascertain however their ideas as to the value of different objects, -we offered for one of the skins a watch, a handkerchief, an American -dollar, and a bunch of red beads; but neither the curious mechanism -of the watch, nor even the red beads could tempt him; he refused the -offer, but asked for tiacomoshack or chief beads, the most common sort -of coarse blue-coloured beads, the article beyond all price in their -estimation. Of these blue beads we have but few, and therefore reserve -them for more necessitous circumstances. - -Sunday 24. The morning being fair, we dried our wet articles and sent -out the hunters, but they returned with only a single brant. In the -evening a chief and several men of the Chinnooks came to see us; we -smoked with them, and bought a sea-otter skin for some blue beads. -Having now examined the coast, it becomes necessary to decide on the -spot for our wintering quarters. The people of the country subsist -chiefly on dried fish and roots, but of these there does not seem -to be a sufficient quantity for our support, even were we able to -purchase, and the extravagant prices as well as our small store of -merchandise forbid us to depend on that resource. We must therefore -rely for subsistence on our arms, and be guided in the choice of our -residence by the abundance of game which any particular spot may offer. -The Indians say that the deer is most numerous at some distance above -on the river, but that the country on the opposite side of the bay is -better supplied with elk, an animal much larger and more easily killed -than deer, with a skin better fitted for clothing, and the meat of -which is more nutritive during the winter, when they are both poor. The -climate too is obviously much milder here than above the first range of -mountains, for the Indians are thinly clad, and say they have little -snow; indeed since our arrival the weather has been very warm, and -sometimes disagreeably so: and dressed as we are altogether in leather, -the cold would be very unpleasant if not injurious. The neighbourhood -of the sea is moreover recommended by the facility of supplying -ourselves with salt; and the hope of meeting some of the trading -vessels, who are expected in about three months, and from whom we may -procure a fresh supply of trinkets for our route homewards. These -considerations induced us to determine on visiting the opposite side -of the bay, and if there was an appearance of much game to establish -ourselves there during the winter. Next day, - -Monday 25, however, the wind was too high to suffer us to cross the -river, but as it blew generally from the east southeast, the coast on -the north was in some degree sheltered by the highlands. We therefore -set out, and keeping near the shore, halted for dinner in the shallow -bay, and after dark, reached a spot near a rock, at some distance in -the river, and close to our former camp of the 7th. inst. On leaving -our camp, seven Clatsops accompanied us in a canoe, but after going a -few miles crossed the bay through immense high waves, leaving us in -admiration, at the dexterity with which they threw aside each wave as -it threatened to come over their canoe. The evening was cloudy, and in -the morning, - -Tuesday 26, it rained. We set out with the wind from east northeast, -and a short distance above the rock, near our camp, began to cross the -river. We passed between some low, marshy islands, which we called the -Seal islands, and reached the south side of the Columbia at a bottom -three miles below a point, to which we gave the name of point Samuel. -After going along the shore for five miles, we entered a channel two -hundred yards in width, which separates from the main land a large, -but low island. On this channel, and at the foot of some highlands, is -a village, where we landed. It consists of nine large wooden houses, -inhabited by a tribe called Cathlamahs, who seem to differ neither in -dress, language, nor manners, from the Chinnooks and Wahkiacums: like -whom they live chiefly on fish and wappatoo roots. We found, however, -as we hoped, some elk meat: after dining on some fresh fish and roots, -which we purchased from them at an immoderate price, we coasted along a -deep bend of the river towards the south, and at night encamped under -a high hill; all the way from the village the land is high, and has -a thick growth of pine balsam, and other timber; but as it was still -raining very hard, it was with difficulty we procured wood enough to -make fires. Soon after we landed, three Indians from the Cathlawah -village came down with wappatoo roots, some of which we purchased with -fish-hooks. At daylight the next morning, - -Wednesday 27, eleven more came down with provisions, skins and mats -for sale, but the prices were too high for our reduced finances, and -we bought nothing. As we were preparing to set out we missed an axe, -which was found under the robe of one of the Indians, and they were all -prohibited in consequence from following us. We went on in the rain, -which had continued through the night, and passing between a number -of islands came to a small river, called by the Indians Kekemahke. We -afterwards came to a very remarkable knob of land, projecting about a -mile and a half towards Shallow bay, and about four miles round, while -the neck of land which connects it to the main shore is not more than -fifty yards wide. We went round this projection, which we named point -William; but the waves then became so high that we could not venture -any farther, and we therefore landed on a beautiful shore of pebbles of -various colours, and encamped near an old Indian hut on the isthmus. -In drawing our canoes in shore, we had the misfortune to make a split -two feet long in one of them. This isthmus opposed a formidable barrier -to the sea, for we now found that the water below is salt, while that -above is fresh and well tasted. It rained hard during the whole day; it -continued all night, and in the morning, - -Thursday 28, began more violently, attended with a high wind from the -southwest. It was now impossible to proceed on so rough a sea. We -therefore sent several men to hunt, and the rest of us remained during -the day, in a situation the most cheerless and uncomfortable. On this -little neck of land we are exposed with a miserable covering, which -does not deserve the name of a shelter to the violence of the winds; -all our bedding and stores, as well as our bodies are completely wet, -our clothes rotting with constant exposure, and no food except the -dried fish brought from the falls, to which we are again reduced. -The hunters all returned hungry, and drenched with rain, having seen -neither deer nor elk, and the swan and brant too shy to be approached. -At noon the wind shifted to the northwest, and blew with such -tremendous fury that many trees were blown down near us. This gale -lasted with short intervals during the whole night; but towards morning, - -Friday, 29th, the wind lulled, though the rain continued, and the waves -were still high. Captain Lewis took the Indian canoe, which is better -calculated for rough weather, and with five men went down to a small -bay below us, where we expect to find elk. Three other men set out at -the same time to hunt in different directions, and the rest remained -round the smoke of our fires drying leather, in order to make some new -clothes. The night brought only a continuation of rain and hail, with -short intervals of fair weather, till in the morning, - -Saturday, 30th, it cleared up about nine o’clock, and the sun shone -for several hours. Other hunters were now sent out, and we passed the -remainder of the day in drying our merchandise so long exposed. Several -of the men complain of disorders in their bowels, which can be ascribed -only to their diet of pounded fish mixed with salt-water: and they -are therefore directed to use for that purpose, the fresh water above -the point. The hunters had seen three elk, but could not obtain any -of them: they however brought in three hawks and a few black ducks, -of a species common in the United States, living in large flocks, and -feeding on grass: they are distinguished by a sharp white beak, toes -separated, and by having no craw. Besides these wild fowls, there are -in this neighbourhood a large kind of buzzard with white wings, the -gray and the bald eagle, the large red-tailed hawk, the blue magpye, -and great numbers of ravens and crows. We observe, however, few small -birds, the one which has most attracted our attention being a small -brown bird, which seems to frequent logs and the roots of trees. Of -other animals there is a great abundance. We see great quantities of -snakes, lizards, worms, and spiders, as well as small bugs, flies -and insects of different kinds. The vegetable productions are also -numerous. The hills along the coast are high and steep, and the general -covering is a growth of lofty pines of different species, some of which -rise more than two hundred feet, and are ten or twelve feet in diameter -near the root. Besides these trees we observe on the point a species of -ash, the alder, the laurel, one species of the wild crab, and several -kinds of underbrush, among which the rosebushes are conspicuous. - -Sunday, December 1, 1805. Again we had a cloudy day, and the wind so -high from the east, that having ventured in a boat with a view to hunt -at some distance, we were obliged to return. We resumed our occupation -of dressing leather and mending our old clothes, in which we passed the -day. The hunters came in with a report of their having seen two herds -of elk, but they could kill nothing, and we therefore again fed upon -dried fish. At sunset it began to rain violently, and continued all -night, and - -Monday, 2d, the next day. This disagreeable food, pounded fish, has -occasioned so much sickness among the men that it is now absolutely -necessary to vary it. Three hunters therefore set out, and three more -were sent up the Kekemahke creek in search of fish or birds. Towards -evening one of them returned: he had observed great appearances of elk, -and even seen two herds of them; but it rained so hard that he could -with difficulty get a shot: he had, however, at last killed one, at -the distance of six miles from the camp, and a canoe was now sent to -bring it. The party from Kekemahke creek were less successful: they had -seen no fish, and all the birds, in consequence probably of being much -hunted by the Indians, were too shy to be approached. - -Tuesday, 3. The wind was from the east, and the morning fair; but, as -if a whole day of fine weather was not permitted, towards night it -began to rain. Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the -spirits of the party, who were still more pleased, when the elk killed -yesterday was brought into camp. This was the first elk we had killed -on the west side of the Rocky mountains, and condemned as we have -been to the dried fish, forms a most nourishing food. After eating -the marrow of the shank-bones, the squaw chopped them fine, and by -boiling, extracted a pint of grease, superior to the tallow itself of -the animal. A canoe of eight Indians, who were carrying down wappatoo -roots to trade with the Clatsops, stopped at our camp: we bought a few -roots for small fish-hooks, and they then left us: but accustomed as we -are to the sight, we could not but view with admiration the wonderful -dexterity with which they guide their canoes over the most boisterous -seas; for though the waves were so high, that before they had gone half -a mile the canoe was several times out of sight, they proceeded with -the greatest calmness and serenity. Two of the hunters who set out -yesterday had lost their way, and did not return till this evening: -they had seen in their ramble great signs of elk, and had killed six -elk, which they had butchered and left at a great distance. A party was -sent in the morning, - -Wednesday, December 4, to carry the elk to a bay, some distance below, -to which place, if the weather permitted, we would all remove our camp -this evening; but the rain which had continued during the night lasted -all next day, and was accompanied by so high a wind from the southeast -and south, that we dared not risk our canoes on the water. It was high -water at eleven o’clock, when the spring-tide rose two feet higher than -the common flood-tides. We passed the day around our fires, and as we -are so situated that the smoke will not immediately leave the camp, we -are very much incommoded, and our eyes injured by it. No news has yet -been received from captain Lewis, and we begin to have much uneasiness -for his safety. - -Thursday, December 5. It rained during the whole night, and this -morning the rain and high wind compelled us to remain at our camp. -Besides the inconvenience of being thus stopped on our route, we now -found that all our stores and bedding are again wet with rain. The -high water was at twelve o’clock, and rose two inches beyond that of -yesterday. In the afternoon we were rejoiced at the return of captain -Lewis, who came in a canoe with three of his men, the other two being -left to guard six elk and five deer which they had killed: he had -examined the coast, and found a river a short distance below, on which -we might encamp during the winter, with a sufficiency of elk for our -subsistence within reach. This information was very satisfactory, and -we decided on going thither as soon as we could move from the point; -but all night and the following day, - -Friday 6, it rained, and the wind blew hard from the southwest, so that -the sea was still too rough for us to proceed. The high-tide of to-day -rose thirteen inches higher than it did yesterday, and obliged us to -move our camp to a high situation. Here we remained waiting for better -weather, till about dark the wind shifted to the north, and the sky was -clear. We had now some prospect of being able to leave our situation, -and indeed although some rain fell in the course of the night, the next -morning, - -Saturday 7, was fair; we therefore loaded our canoes, and proceeded. -But the tide was against us, and the waves very high, so that we were -obliged to proceed slowly and cautiously. We at length turned a point, -and found ourselves in a deep bay; here we landed for breakfast, and -were joined by the party sent out three days ago to look for the six -elk. In seeking for the elk they had missed their way for a day and a -half, and when they reached the place, found the elk so much spoiled -that they brought the skins only of four of them. After breakfast we -coasted round the bay, which is about four miles across, and receives, -besides several small creeks, two rivers called by the Indians, the one -Kilhowanakel, the other Netul. We called it Meriwether’s bay, from the -christian name of captain Lewis, who was no doubt the first white man -who surveyed it. As we went along the wind was high from the northeast, -and in the middle of the day it rained for two hours, and then cleared -off. On reaching the south side of the bay, we ascended the Netul for -three miles to the first point of highland on its western bank, and -formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty pines, about two hundred -yards from the water, and thirty feet above the level of the high tides. - -Sunday 8. This seemed the most eligible spot for our winter -establishment. In order therefore to find a place for making salt, -and to examine the country further, captain Clarke set out with five -men, and pursuing a course south, 60° west, over a dividing ridge, -through thick pine timber, much of which had fallen, passed the heads -of two small brooks. In the neighbourhood of these the land was swampy -and overflowed, and we waded knee-deep till we came to an open ridgy -prairie, covered with the plant known on our frontier by the name -of sacacommis. Here is a creek about sixty yards wide, and running -towards point Adams; they passed it on a small raft. At this place -they discovered a large herd of elk, and after pursuing them for three -miles over bad swamps and small ponds, we killed one of them. The -agility with which the elk crossed the swamps and bogs, seems almost -incredible; as we followed their track, the ground for a whole acre -would shake at our tread, and sometimes we sunk to our hips without -finding any bottom. Over the surface of these bogs is a species of -moss, among which are great numbers of cranberries, and occasionally -there rise from the swamp steep and small knobs of earth, thickly -covered with pine and laurel. On one of these we halted at night, but -it was scarcely large enough to suffer us to lie clear of the water, -and had very little dry wood. We succeeded however in collecting enough -to make a fire, and having stretched the elk skin to keep off the rain, -which still continued, slept till morning, - -Monday 9, when we rose, perfectly wet with rain during the night. Three -men were then sent in pursuit of the elk, while with the other three, -captain Clarke proceeded westward towards the sea. He passed over three -swamps, and then arrived at a creek, which was too deep to ford, and -there was no wood to make a raft. He therefore proceeded down it for a -short distance, till he found that he was between the forks of a creek. -One branch of which he had passed yesterday, turns round towards the -southwest to meet another of equal size from the south, and together -they form a small river, about seventy yards wide. He returned to the -place where he had left the raft, and having crossed proceeded down -about a mile, when he met three Indians. They were loaded with fresh -salmon which they had taken with a gig, and were now returning to their -village on the seacoast, where they invited him to accompany them. -He agreed, and they brought out a canoe hid along the banks of the -creek. In this they passed over the branch which he had just crossed -on a raft, and then carried the canoe a quarter of a mile to the -other fork, which they crossed and continued down to the mouth of the -river. At this place it makes a great bend, where the river is seventy -yards wide; just above, or to the south of which is the village. We -crossed over, and found that it consisted of three houses, inhabited -by twelve families of Clatsops. They were on the south exposure of a -hill, and sunk about four feet deep into the ground; the walls, roof, -and gable-ends being formed of split pine boards; the descent through -a small door down a ladder. There are two fires in the middle of the -room, and the beds disposed round the walls two or three feet from -the fall, so as to leave room under them for their bags, baskets and -household articles. The floor itself is covered with mats. Captain -Clarke was received with much attention. As soon as he entered, clean -mats were spread, and fish, berries and roots set before him on small -neat platters of rushes. After he had eaten, the men of the other -houses came and smoked with him. They all appeared much neater in their -persons and diet than Indians generally are, and frequently wash their -hands and faces, a ceremony by no means frequent elsewhere. While -he was conversing with them, a flock of brant lighted on the water, -and he with a small rifle shot one of them at a great distance. They -immediately jumped in, and brought it on shore, very much astonished -at the shot, which contributed to make them increase their attention. -Towards evening it began to rain and blow very violently from the -southwest: and captain Clarke therefore, determined to remain during -the night. When they thought his appetite had returned, an old woman -presented him in a bowl, made of light colored horn, a kind of sirrup, -pleasant to the taste, and made from a species of berry common in -this country, about the size of a cherry, and called by the Indians -shelwel: of these berries a bread is also prepared, which being boiled -with roots forms a soup, which was served in neat wooden trenchers: -this, with some cockles, was his repast. The men of the village now -collected, and began to gamble. The most common game, was one in which -one of the company was banker, and played against all the rest. He has -a piece of bone, about the size of a large bean, and having agreed -with any individual as to the value of the stake, would pass the bone -from one hand to the other, with great dexterity, singing at the same -time, to divert the attention of his adversary; and then holding it -in his hands, his antagonist was challenged to guess in which of them -the bone was, and lost or won as he pointed to the right or wrong -hand. To this game of hazard they abandoned themselves with great -ardor; sometimes every thing they possess is sacrificed to it, and -this evening several of the Indians lost all the beads which they had -with them. This lasted for three hours, when captain Clarke appearing -disposed to sleep, the man who had been most attentive, and whose name -was Cuskalah, spread two new mats near the fire, and ordering his wife -to retire to her own bed, the rest of the company dispersed at the same -time. Captain Clarke then lay down, but the violence with which the -fleas attacked him, did not leave his rest unbroken, and he rose, - -Tuesday 10, early. The morning was cloudy, with some rain: he walked -out on the seashore, and observed the Indians walking up and down the -creek and examining the shore: he was at a loss to understand their -object, till one of them came to him and explained that they were in -search of fish which had been thrown on shore and left by the tide, -adding in English, “sturgeon is very good.” There is indeed, every -reason to suppose, that these Clatsops depend for their subsistence -during the winter, chiefly on the fish thus casually thrown on the -coast. After amusing himself for some time on the beach, he returned -towards the village, and shot on his way two brant. As he came near -the village, one of the Indians asked him to shoot a duck about -thirty steps distant: he did so, and having accidentally shot off its -head, the bird was brought to the village by the Indians, all of whom -came round in astonishment: they examined the duck, the musket, and -the very small bullet, which were a hundred to the pound, and then -exclaimed, Clouch musquet, wake, commatax musquet: a good musket, do -not understand this kind of musket. They now placed before him their -best roots, fish, and sirrup, after which he attempted to purchase a -sea-otter skin with some red beads which he happened to have about -him; but they declined trading, as they valued none except blue or -white beads: he therefore bought nothing but a little berry bread and -a few roots in exchange for fish-hooks, and then set out to return by -the same route on which he came. He was accompanied by Cuskalah and -his brother as far as the third creek, and then proceeded to the camp -through a heavy rain. The whole party had been occupied during his -absence in cutting down trees to make huts, and in hunting. - -Wednesday, 11. The rain continued last night and the whole of this day. -We were, however, all employed in putting up our winter cabins, which -we are anxious to finish, as several of the men are beginning to suffer -from the excessive dampness: four of them have very violent colds, one -has a dysentery, a third has tumours on his legs, and two have been -injured by dislocation and straining of their limbs. - -Thursday, 12. We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In -the evening there arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a -principal chief, called Comowol. We gave him a medal, and treated -his companions with great attention; after which we began to bargain -for a small sea-otter skin, some wappatoo roots, and another species -of root called shanataque. We readily perceived that they were close -dealers, stickled much for trifles, and never closed the bargain until -they thought they had the advantage. The wappatoo is dear, as they -themselves are obliged to give a high price for it to the Indians -above. Blue beads are the articles most in request, the white occupy -the next place in their estimation; but they do not value much those of -any other colour. We succeeded at last in purchasing their whole cargo -for a few fish-hooks and a small sack of Indian tobacco, which we had -received from the Shoshonees. The next morning, - -Friday, 13th, we treated them to a breakfast on elk meat, of which -they seemed very fond; and having purchased from them two skins of -the lucervia, and two robes made of the skin of an animal about the -size of a cat, they left us. Two hunters returned with the pleasing -intelligence of their having killed eighteen elk about six miles off. -Our huts begin to rise, for though it rains all day we continue our -labours, and are rejoiced to find that the beautiful balsam pine splits -into excellent boards, more than two feet in width. In the evening -three Indians came in a canoe with provisions and skins for sale, and -spent the night with us. - -Saturday, 14. Again it rained all day, but by working constantly we -finished the walls of our huts, and nearly completed a house for our -provisions. The constant rains have completely spoiled our last supply -of elk; but notwithstanding that scarcely a man has been dry for a -great number of days, the sick are recovering. Four men were despatched -to guard the elk which were killed yesterday, till a larger party -joined them. Accordingly, - -Sunday 15, captain Clarke with sixteen men set out in three canoes, -and having rowed for three miles up the river turned up a large creek -from the right, and after going three miles further landed about the -height of the tide water. The men were then despatched in small parties -to bring in the elk, each man returning with a quarter of the animal. -In bringing the third and last load, nearly half the men missed their -way, and did not return till after night; five of them indeed were -not able to find their way at all. It had been cloudy all day, and -in the night began to rain, and as we had no cover were obliged to -sit up the greater part of the night, for as soon as we lay down the -rain would come under us, and compel us to rise. It was indeed a most -uncomfortable situation, but the five men who joined us in the morning, - -Monday 16, had been more unlucky, for in addition to the rain which had -poured down upon them all night, they had no fire, and drenched and -cold as they were when they reached us, exhibited a most distressing -sight. They had left their loads where they slept, and some men were -sent after them, while others were despatched after two more elk in -another bend of the creek, who after taking these last on board, -proceeded to our camp. It rained and hailed during the day, and a high -wind from the southeast not only threw down trees as we passed along, -but made the river so rough that we proceeded with great risk. We now -had the meat house covered, and all our game carefully hung up in small -pieces. - -Tuesday 17. It rained all night, and this morning there was a high -wind, and hail as well as rain fell; and on the top of a mountain about -ten miles to the southeast of us we observed some snow. The greater -part of our stores is wet, and our leathern tent is so rotten that the -slightest touch makes a rent in it, and it will now scarcely shelter -a spot large enough for our beds. We were all busy in finishing the -inside of the huts. The after part of the day was cool and fair. But -this respite was of very short duration, for all night it continued -raining and snowing alternately, and in the morning, - -Wednesday 18, we had snow and hail till twelve o’clock, after which it -changed to rain. The air now became cool and disagreeable, the wind -high and unsettled, so that being thinly dressed in leather, we were -able to do very little on the houses. - -Thursday 19. The rain continued all night with short intervals, but -the morning was fair and the wind from the southwest. Situated as we -are, our only occupation is to work as diligently as we can on our -houses, and to watch the changes of the weather, on which so much of -our comfort depends. We availed ourselves of this glimpse of sunshine, -to send across Meriwether’s bay for the boards of an old Indian house; -but before the party returned with them, the weather clouded, and we -again had hail and rain during the rest of the day. Our only visitors -were two Indians who spent a short time with us. - -Friday 20. A succession of rain and hail during the night. At ten -o’clock it cleared off for a short time, but the rain soon recommenced; -we now covered in four of our huts; three Indians came in a canoe with -mats, roots, and the berries of the sacacommis. These people proceed -with a dexterity and finesse in their bargains, which, if they have -not learnt from their foreign visitors, it may show how nearly allied -is the cunning of savages to the little arts of traffic. They begin by -asking double or treble the value of what they have to sell, and lower -their demand in proportion to the greater or less degree of ardor or -knowledge of the purchaser, who with all his management is not able to -procure the article for less than its real value, which the Indians -perfectly understand. Our chief medium of trade consists of blue and -white beads, files with which they sharpen their tools, fish-hooks, and -tobacco: but of all these articles blue beads and tobacco are the most -esteemed. - -Saturday 21. As usual it rained all night and continued without -intermission during the day. One of our Indian visitors was detected -in stealing a horn spoon, and turned out of the camp. We find that the -plant called sacacommis forms an agreeable mixture with tobacco, and we -therefore despatched two men to the open lands near the ocean, in order -to collect some of it, while the rest continued their work. - -Sunday 22. There was no interval in the rain last night and to-day; so -that we cannot go on rapidly with our buildings. Some of the men are -indeed quite sick, others have received bruises, and several complain -of biles. We discover too, that part of our elk meat is spoiling -in consequence of the warmth of the weather, though we have kept a -constant smoke under it. - -Monday 23. It continued raining the whole day, with no variation -except occasional thunder and hail. Two canoes of Clatsops came to us -with various articles for sale; we bought three mats and bags neatly -made of flags and rushes, and also the skin of a panther seven feet -long, including the tail. For all these we gave six small fish-hooks, -a worn-out file, and some pounded fish which had become so soft and -mouldy by exposure, that we could not use it: it is, however, highly -prized by the Indians of this neighbourhood. Although a very portable -and convenient food, the mode of curing seems known, or at least -practised only by the Indians near the great falls, and coming from -such a distance, has an additional value in the eyes of these people, -who are anxious to possess some food less precarious than their -ordinary subsistence. Among these Clatsops was a second chief to whom -we gave a medal, and sent some pounded fish to Cusealah, who could not -come to see us, on account of sickness. The next day, - -Tuesday 24, however, he came in a canoe with his young brother and two -squaws. Having treated captain Clarke so kindly at his village we were -pleased to see him, and he gave us two mats and a parcel of roots. -These we accepted, as it would have been offensive to decline the offer -but afterwards two files were demanded in return for the presents, and -not being able to spare those articles, we restored the mats and roots. -Cusealah was a little displeased: in the evening however he offered -each of us one of the squaws, and even this being declined, Cusealah as -well as the whole party of Indians were highly offended: the females -particularly seemed to be much incensed at our indifference about -their favours. The whole stock of meat being now completely spoiled, -our pounded fish became again our chief dependence. It had rained -constantly all day, but we still continued working and at last moved -into our huts. - -Wednesday 25. We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, -which was followed by a song from the men, as a compliment to us on the -return of Christmas, which we have always been accustomed to observe -as a day of rejoicing. After breakfast we divided our remaining stock -of tobacco, which amounted to twelve carrots, into two parts; one of -which we distributed among such of the party as made use of it, making -a present of a handkerchief to the others. The reminder of the day was -passed in good spirits, though there was nothing in our situation to -excite much gayety. The rain confined us to the house, and our only -luxuries in honour of the season, were some poor elk, so much spoiled -that we eat it through mere necessity, a few roots, and some spoiled -pounded fish. The next day, - -Thursday 26, brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, -and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore still obliged -to remain in our huts, and endeavoured to dry our wet articles before -the fire. The fleas which annoyed us near the portage of the great -falls, have taken such possession of our clothes, that we are obliged -to have a regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary -preliminary to sleeping at night. These animals indeed are so numerous, -that they are almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. When -they have once obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible to -expel them, and the Indians have frequently different houses, to which -they resort occasionally when the fleas have rendered their permanent -residence intolerable; yet in spite of these precautions, every Indian -is constantly attended by multitudes of them, and no one comes into our -houses without leaving behind him swarms of these tormenting insects. - -Friday 27. The rain did not cease last night, nor the greater part -of the day. In the evening we were visited by Comowool, the chief, -and four men of the Clatsop nation, who brought a very timely supply -of roots and berries. Among these was one called culhomo, resembling -liquorice in size and taste, and which they roast like a potatoe; there -was also the shanataque, a root of which they are very fond. It is of -a black colour, sweet to the taste, and is prepared for eating in a -kiln, as the Indians up the Columbia dry the pasheco. These as well as -the shellwell berries, they value highly, but were perfectly satisfied -with the return we made them, consisting of a small piece of sheepskin, -to wear round the chief’s head, a pair of earbobs for his son, a small -piece of brass, and a little riband. In addition to our old enemies the -fleas, we observed two musquitoes, or insects so completely resembling -them, that we can perceive no difference in their shape and appearance. - -Saturday, 28. Again it rained during the greater part of last night, -and continued all day. Five men were sent out to hunt, and five others -despatched to the seaside, each with a large kettle, in order to begin -the manufacture of salt. The route to the seacoast is about seven miles -in length, in a direction nearly west. Five miles of the distance is -through thick wood varied with hills, ravines and swamps, though the -land in general possesses a rich black mould. The remaining two miles -is formed of open waving prairies of sand, with ridges running parallel -to the river, and covered with green grass. The rest of the men were -employed in making pickets and gates for our new fort. Although we had -no sun, the weather was very warm. - -Sunday, 29. It rained the whole night, but ceased this morning, and -but little rain fell in the course of the day; still the weather was -cloudy and the wind high from the southeast. The Clatsop chief and his -party left us, after begging for a great number of articles, which, as -we could not spare them, we refused except a razor. We were employed -all day in picketting the fort: in the evening a young Wahkiacum chief, -with four men and two women, arrived with some dressed elk skin and -wappatoo for sale. We purchased about a bushel and a half of those -roots for some red beads, and small pieces of brass wire and old check. -The chief too made us a present of half a bushel more, for which we -gave him a medal, and a piece of riband, to tie round his hat. These -roots are extremely grateful, since our meat has become spoiled, and -we were desirous of purchasing the remainder; but the chief would not -dispose of any more, as he was on his way to trade with the Clatsops. -They remained with us however till the next day, - -Monday, 30, when they were joined by four more of their countrymen, -from the Wahkiacum village. These last began by offering us some roots; -but as we had now learned that they always expert three or four times -as much in return, as the real value of the articles, and are even -dissatisfied with that, we declined such dangerous presents. Towards -evening the hunters brought in four elk, and after a long course of -abstinence and miserable diet, we had a most sumptuous supper of elk’s -tongues and marrow. Besides this agreeable repast, the state of the -weather had been quite exhilarating. It had rained during the night, -but in the morning, though the high wind continued, we enjoyed the -fairest and most pleasant weather since our arrival; the sun having -shone at intervals, and there being only three showers in the course -of the day. By sunset we had completed the fortification, and now -announced to the Indians that every day at that hour the gates would -be closed, and they must leave the fort and not enter it till sunrise. -The Wahkiacums, who had remained with us, and who are very forward in -their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this order; but being -excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. - -Tuesday, 31. As if it were impossible to have twenty-four hours of -pleasant weather, the sky last evening clouded, and the rain began and -continued through the day. In the morning there came down two canoes, -one from the Wahkiacum village, the other contained three men and a -squaw of the Skilloot nation. They brought wappatoo, and shanataque -roots, dried fish, mats made of flags and rushes, dressed elk skins -and tobacco; for which, particularly the skins, they asked a very -extravagant price. We purchased some wappatoo, and a little tobacco, -very much like that we had seen among the Shoshonees, put up in small -neat bags made of rushes. These we obtained in exchange for a few -articles, among which fish-hooks are the most esteemed. One of the -Skilloots brought a gun which wanted some repair, and having put it in -order, we received from him a present of about a peck of wappatoo; we -then gave him a piece of sheep skin and blue cloth, to cover the lock, -and he very thankfully offered a further present of roots. There is, in -fact, an obvious superiority in these Skilloots over the Wahkiacums, -who are intrusive, thievish, and impertinent. Our new regulations, -however, and the appearance of the sentinel, have improved the -behaviour of all our Indian visitors. They left the fort before sunset, -even without being ordered. - -Besides the fleas, we observe a number of insects in motion to-day. -Snakes are yet to be seen; snails too, without covers, are common. On -the rivers, and along the shores of Meriwether’s bay, are many kinds of -large water fowls, but at this period they are excessively wild. The -early part of the night was fair. - -Wednesday, January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour, by a -discharge of a volley of small arms, to salute the new year. This is -the only mode of doing honour to the day which our situation permits, -for though we have reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our -only dainties are the boiled elk and wappatoo, enlivened by draughts -of pure water. We were visited by a few Clatsops, who came by water, -bringing roots and berries for sale. Among this nation we have observed -a man about twenty-five years old, of a much lighter complexion than -the Indians generally: his face was even freckled, and his hair -long; and of a colour inclining to red. He was in habits and manners -perfectly Indian; but, though he did not speak a word of English, he -seemed to understand more than the others of his party; and, as we -could obtain no account of his origin, we concluded that one of his -parents, at least, must have been completely white. - -These Indians staid with us during the night, and left the fort next -morning, - -Thursday 2, having disposed of their cargo for fishing-hooks and other -trifling articles. The hunters brought in two elk, and we obtained from -the traps another. This animal, as well as the beaver and the rackoon, -are in plenty near the seacoast, and along the small creeks and rivers -as high as the grand rapids, and in this country possess an extremely -good fur. - -The birds which most strike our attention are the large as well as -the small or whistling swan, the sandhill crane, the large and small -geese, cormorants, brown and white brant, duckinmallard, the canvass -and several other species of ducks. There is also a small crow, the -blue crested corvus, and the smaller corvus with a white breast, the -little brown wren, a large brown sparrow, the bald eagle, and the -beautiful buzzard of the Columbia. All these wild fowl continue with -us, though they are not in such numbers as on our first arrival in this -neighbourhood. - -Friday 4. At eleven o’clock we were visited by our neighbour the -Fia, or chief Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. -Besides roots, and berries, they brought for sale three dogs and some -fresh blubber. Having been so long accustomed to live on the flesh -of dogs, the greater part of us have acquired a fondness for it, and -our original aversion for it is overcome, by reflecting that while -we subsisted on that food we were fatter, stronger, and in general -enjoyed better health than at any period since leaving the buffaloe -country eastward of the mountains. The blubber, which is esteemed by -the Indians an excellent food, has been obtained, they tell us, from -their neighbours the Killamucks, a nation who live on the seacoast to -the southeast, and near one of whose villages a whale had recently been -thrown and foundered. Three of the hunters who had been despatched on -the 28th, returned about dark; they had been fifteen miles up the river -to the east of us, which falls into Meriwether’s bay, and had hunted a -considerable distance to the east; but they had not been able to kill -more than a single deer, and a few fowls, scarcely sufficient for their -subsistence; an incident which teaches us the necessity of keeping out -several parties of hunters, in order to procure a supply against any -exigency. - -Saturday 4. Comowool left us this morning with his party, highly -pleased with a present of an old pair of satin breeches. The hunters -were all sent in different directions, and we are now becoming more -anxious for their success since our store of wappatoo is all exhausted. - -Sunday 5. Two of the five men who had been despatched to make salt -returned. They had carefully examined the coast, but it was not till -the fifth day after their departure that they discovered a convenient -situation for their manufacture. At length they formed an establishment -about fifteen miles southwest of the fort, near some scattered houses -of the Clatsop and Killamuck nation, where they erected a comfortable -camp, and had killed a stock of provisions. The Indians had treated -them very kindly, and made them a present of the blubber of the whale, -some of which the men brought home. It was white and not unlike the -fat of pork, though of a coarser and more spongy texture, and on being -cooked was found to be tender and palatable, and in flavour resembling -the beaver. The men also brought with them a gallon of the salt, -which was white, fine, and very good, but not so strong as the rock -salt common to the western parts of the United States. It proves to -be a most agreeable addition to our food, and as the saltmakers can -manufacture three or four quarts a day, we have a prospect of a very -plentiful supply. The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of -importance to all the neighbouring Indians, and as we might be able to -procure some of it for ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from -the Indians, a small parcel of merchandise was prepared, and a party -of the men held in readiness to set out in the morning. As soon as this -resolution was known, Chaboneau and his wife requested that they might -be permitted to accompany us. The poor woman stated very earnestly that -she had travelled a great way with us to see the great water, yet she -had never been down to the coast, and now that this monstrous fish was -also to be seen, it seemed hard that she should not be permitted to see -neither the ocean nor the whale. So reasonable a request could not be -denied; they were therefore suffered to accompany captain Clarke, who, - -Monday 6, after an early breakfast set out with twelve men in two -canoes. He proceeded down the Netul into Meriwether bay, intending to -go to the Clatsop town, and there procure a guide through the creeks, -which there was reason to believe communicated not only with the -bay, but with a small river running towards the sea, near where our -saltmakers were encamped. Before however he could reach the Clatsop -village, the high wind from the northwest compelled him to put into -a small creek. He therefore resolved to attempt the passage without -a guide, and proceeded up the creek three miles, to some high open -land where he found a road. He therefore left the canoes, and followed -the path over three deep marshes to a pond about a mile long, and two -hundred yards wide. He kept on the left of this pond, and at length -came to the creek which he had crossed on a raft, when he had visited -Cuscalah’s village on the ninth of December. He proceeded down it, till -he found a small canoe, fit to hold three persons, in which the whole -party crossed the creek. Here they saw a herd of elk, and the men were -divided into small parties, and hunted them till after dark, when they -met again at the forks of the river. Three of the elk were wounded, but -night prevented their taking more than one, which was brought to the -camp, and cooked with sticks of pine which had drifted down the creeks. -The weather was beautiful, the sky clear, the moon shone brightly, a -circumstance the more agreeable as this is the first fair evening we -have enjoyed for two months. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - A party, headed by captain Clarke, go in quest of a whale - driven on the shore of the Pacific to obtain some of the - oil--they pass Clatsop river, which is described--the perilous - nature of this jaunt, and the grandeur of the scenery - described--Indian mode of extracting whale oil--the life - of one of captain Clarke’s party preserved by the kindness - of an Indian woman--a short account of the Chinnooks, of - the Clatsops, Killamucks, the Lucktons, and an enumeration - of several other tribes--the manner of sepulchre among the - Chinnooks, Clatsops, &c.--description of their weapons of war - and hunting--their mode of building houses--their manufactures, - and cookery--their mode of making canoes--their great dexterity - in managing that vehicle. - - -Tuesday, 7. There was a frost this morning. We rose early, and taking -eight pounds of flesh, which were all the remains of the elk, proceeded -up the south fork of the creek. At the distance of two miles we found a -pine tree, which had been felled by one of our saltmakers, and on which -we crossed the deepest part of the creek, and waded through the rest. -We then went over an open ridgy prairie, three quarters of a mile, to -the seabeach; after following which for three miles, we came to the -mouth of a beautiful river, with a bold, rapid current, eighty-five -yards wide, and three feet deep, in its shallowest crossings. On its -northeast side are the remains of an old village of Clatsops, inhabited -by only a single family, who appeared miserably poor and dirty. We gave -a man two fish-hooks, to ferry the party over the river, which, from -the tribe on its banks, we called Clatsop river. The creek, which we -had passed on a tree, approaches this river within about an hundred -yards, and by means of a portage, supplies a communication with the -villages near Point Adams. After going on for two miles, we found the -saltmakers encamped near four houses of Clatsops and Killamucks, -who, though poor, dirty, and covered with fleas, seemed kind and well -disposed. We persuaded a young Indian, by a present of a file, and a -promise of some other articles, to guide us to the spot where the whale -lay. He led us for two and a half miles over the round slippery stones -at the foot of a high hill projecting into the sea, and then suddenly -stopping, and uttering the word peshack or bad, explained by signs -that we could no longer follow the coast, but must cross the mountain. -This promised to be a most laborious undertaking, for the side is -nearly perpendicular, and the top lost in clouds. He, however, followed -an Indian path which wound along as much as possible, but still the -ascent was so steep, that at one place we drew ourselves for about -an hundred feet by means of bushes and roots. At length, after two -hours labour, we reached the top of the mountain, where we looked down -with astonishment on the prodigious height of ten or twelve hundred -feet, which we had ascended. Immediately below us, in the face of this -precipice, is a stratum of white earth, used, as our guide informed us, -as a paint by the neighbouring Indians. It obviously contains argile, -and resembles the earth of which the French porcelaine is made, though -whether it contains silex or magnesia, or in what proportions, we could -not observe. We were here met by fourteen Indians, loaded with oil and -blubber, the spoils of the whale, which they were carrying in very -heavy burdens, over this rough mountain. On leaving them, we proceeded -over a bad road till night, when we encamped on a small run: we were -all much fatigued, but the weather was pleasant, and, for the first -time since our arrival here, an entire day has passed without rain. In -the morning, - -Wednesday, 8, we set out early and proceeded to the top of the -mountain, the highest point of which is an open spot facing the ocean. -It is situated about thirty miles southeast of cape Disappointment, -and projects nearly two and a half miles into the sea. Here one of the -most delightful views in nature presents itself. Immediately in front -is the ocean, which breaks with fury on the coast, from the rocks of -cape Disappointment as far as the eye can discern to the northwest, and -against the highlands and irregular piles of rock which diversify the -shore to the southeast. To this boisterous scene, the Columbia, with -its tributary waters, widening into bays as it approaches the ocean, -and studded on both sides with the Chinnook and Clatsop villages, forms -a charming contrast; while immediately beneath our feet, are stretched -the rich prairies, enlivened by three beautiful streams, which conduct -the eye to small lakes at the foot of the hills. We stopped to enjoy -the romantic view from this place, which we distinguished by the -name of Clarke’s Point of View, and then followed our guide down the -mountain. The descent was steep and dangerous: in many places the hill -sides, which are formed principally of yellow clay, has been washed -by the late rains, and is now slipping into the sea, in large masses -of fifty and an hundred acres. In other parts, the path crosses the -rugged perpendicular rocks which overhang the sea, into which a false -step would have precipitated us. The mountains are covered with a very -thick growth of timber, chiefly pine and fir; some of which, near -Clarke’s Point of View, perfectly sound and solid, rise to the height -of two hundred and ten feet, and are from eight to twelve in diameter. -Intermixed is the white cedar, or arbor vitæ, and a small quantity of -black alder, two or three feet thick, and sixty or seventy in height. -At length we reached a single house, the remains of an old Killamuck -village, situated among some rocks, in a bay immediately on the coast. -We then continued for two miles along the sand beach; and after -crossing a creek, eighty yards in width, near which are five cabins, -reached the place where the waves had thrown the whale on shore. The -animal had been placed between two Killamuck villages, and such had -been their industry, that there now remained nothing more than the -skeleton, which we found to be one hundred and five feet in length. -Captain Clarke then returned to the village of five huts, on the creek, -to which he gave the name of Ecola, or Whale creek. The natives were -all busied in boiling the blubber, in a large square trough of wood, -by means of heated stones, and preserving the oil, thus extracted, in -bladders and the entrails of the whale. The refuse of the blubber, -which still contained a portion of oil, are hung up in large flitches, -and when wanted for use, are warmed on a wooden spit before the fire, -and eaten either alone, or dipped in oil, or with roots of the rush and -shanataque. These Killamucks, though they had great quantities, parted -with it reluctantly, and at such high prices, that our whole stock -of merchandise was exhausted in the purchase of about three hundred -pounds of blubber, and a few gallons of oil. With these we set out to -return; and having crossed Ecola creek, encamped on its bank, where -there was abundance of fine timber. We were soon joined by the men of -the village, with whom we smoked, and who gave us all the information -they possessed, relative to their country. These Killamucks are part of -a much larger nation of the same name, and they now reside chiefly in -four villages, each at the entrance of a creek, all of which fall into -a bay on the southwest coast; that at which we now are, being the most -northern, and at the distance of about forty-five miles southeast of -Point Adams. The rest of the nation are scattered along the coast, and -on the banks of a river, which, as we found it in their delineations, -we called Killamuck’s river, emptying itself in the same direction. -During the salmon season they catch great quantities of that fish, in -the small creeks, and when they fail, their chief resource was the -sturgeon and other fish stranded along the coast. The elk were very -numerous in the mountains, but they could not procure many of them with -their arrows; and their principal communication with strangers, was by -means of the Killamuck river, up which, they passed to the Shocatilcum -(or Columbia) to trade for wappatoo roots. In their dress, appearance, -and indeed every circumstance of life, they differ very little from -the Chinnooks, Clatsops, and other nations in the neighbourhood. The -chief variation we have observed is in the manner of burying the dead; -the bodies being secured in an oblong box of plank, which is placed -in an open canoe, lying on the ground, with a paddle, and other small -articles of the deceased by his side. - -Whilst smoking with the Indians, captain Clarke was surprised about ten -o’clock by a loud shrill outcry from the opposite village; on hearing -which, all the Indians immediately started up to cross the creek, and -the guide informed him that some one had been killed. On examination, -one of the men was discovered to be absent, and a guard despatched, -who met him crossing the creek in great haste. An Indian belonging to -another band, and who happened to be with the Killamucks that evening, -had treated him with much kindness, and walked arm in arm with him to a -tent where our man found a Chinnook squaw, who was an old acquaintance. -From the conversation and manner of the stranger, this woman discovered -that his object was to murder the white man, for the sake of the few -articles on his person, and when he rose, and pressed our man to go to -another tent where they would find something better to eat, she held -M’Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, he freed himself from -her, and was going on with his pretended friend, when she ran out and -gave the shriek which brought the men of the village over, and the -stranger ran off before M’Neal knew what had occasioned the alarm. - -Thursday, 9. The morning was fine, the wind from the northeast; and -having divided our stock of the blubber, we began at sunrise to -retread our steps, in order to reach fort Clatsop, at the distance of -thirty-five miles. We met several parties of Indians on their way to -trade for blubber and oil with the Killamucks; (our route lay across -the same mountains which we had already passed) we also overtook -a party returning from the village, and could not but regard With -astonishment the heavy loads which the women carry over these fatiguing -and dangerous paths. As one of the women was descending a steep part of -the mountain, her load slipped from her back, and she stood holding it -by a strap with one hand, and with the other supporting herself by a -bush: captain Clarke being near her, undertook to replace the load, and -found it almost as much as he could lift, and above one hundred pounds -in weight. Loaded as they were, they kept pace with us, till we reached -the saltmakers’ tents, where we passed the night, while they continued -their route. - -Friday, 10. We proceeded across Clatsop river, to the place where -we had left our canoes; and as the tide was coming in, immediately -embarked for the fort, at which place we arrived about ten o’clock at -night. During their absence, the men had been occupied in hunting and -dressing skins, but in this they were not very successful, as the deer -have become scarce, and are, indeed, seen chiefly near the prairies and -open grounds, along the coast. This morning, however, there came to -the fort twelve Indians, in a large canoe. They are of the Cathlamah -nation, our nearest neighbours above, on the south side of the river. -The tia, or chief, whose name was Shahawacap, having been absent on a -hunting excursion, as we passed his village, had never yet seen us, -and we therefore showed him the honours of our country, as well as our -reduced finances would permit. We invested him with a small medal, -and received a present of Indian tobacco and a basket of wappatoo in -return, for which we gave him a small piece of our tobacco, and thread -for a fishing net. They had brought dried salmon, wappatoo, dogs, -and mats made of rushes and flags: but we bought only some dogs and -wappatoo. These Cathlamahs speak the same language as the Chinnooks and -Clatsops, whom they also resemble in dress and manners. - -Saturday, 11. A party was sent out to bring in some elk killed -yesterday, and several were despatched after our Indian canoe, which -drifted away last night; but, though the whole neighbourhood was -diligently searched, we were unable to find it. This is a serious loss, -as she is much superior to our own canoes, and so light that four men -can carry her readily without fatigue, though she will carry from ten -to twelve hundred pounds, besides a crew of four. In the evening the -Cathlamahs left us, on their way to barter their wappatoo with the -Clatsops, for some blubber and oil, which these last have procured from -the Killamucks, in exchange for beads and other articles. - -Sunday, 12. Our meat is now becoming scarce; we, therefore, determined -to jerk it, and issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing -it among the four messes, and leaving to each the care of its own -provisions; a plan by which much is lost, in consequence of the -improvidence of the men. Two hunters had been despatched in the -morning, and one of them, Drewyer, had before evening, killed seven -elk. We should scarcely be able to subsist, were it not for the -exertions of this most excellent hunter. The game is scarce, and -nothing is now to be seen, except elk, which to almost all the men, -are very difficult to be procured: but Drewyer, who is the offspring -of a Canadian Frenchman, and an Indian woman, has passed his life in -the woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, the dextrous aim of -the frontier huntsman, with the intuitive sagacity of the Indian, in -pursuing the faintest tracks through the forest. All our men, however, -have indeed, become so expert with the rifle, that we are never under -apprehensions as to food, since, whenever there is game of any kind, we -are almost certain of procuring it. - -Monday, 13. Captain Lewis took all the men who could be spared, and -brought in the seven elk, which they had found untouched by the wolves, -of which there are a few in the neighbourhood. The last of the candles -which we brought with us being exhausted, we now began to make others -of elk tallow. From all that we have seen and learnt of the Chinnooks, -we have been induced to estimate the nation at about twenty-eight -houses, and four hundred souls. They reside chiefly along the banks of -a river, to which we gave the same name; and which, running parallel -to the seacoast, waters a low country with many stagnant ponds, and -then empties itself into Haley’s bay. The wild fowl of these ponds, and -the elk and deer of the neighbourhood, furnish them with occasional -luxuries; but their chief subsistence is derived from the salmon and -other fish, which are caught in the small streams, by means of nets -and gigs, or thrown on shore by the violence of the tide. To these are -added some roots, such as the wild liquorice, which is the most common, -the shanataque, and the wappatoo, brought down the river by the traders. - -The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being -small and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the -women, flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are -in part concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver, or -fox skins. They also employ in their dress, robes of the skin of a cat -peculiar to this country, and of another animal of the same size, which -is light and durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians, who -bring it from above. In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers -of red, blue, or spotted cloth, and some old sailors’ clothes, which -were very highly prized. The greater part of the men have guns, powder, -and ball. - -The women have, in general, handsome faces, but are low and -disproportioned, with small feet and large legs and thighs, occasioned, -probably, by strands of beads, or various strings, drawn so tight -above the ancles, as to prevent the circulation of the blood. Their -dress, like that of the Wahkiacums, consists of a short robe, and a -tissue of cedar bark. Their hair hangs loosely down the shoulders and -back; and their ears, neck, and wrists are ornamented with blue beads. -Another decoration which is very highly prized, consists of figures -made by puncturing the arms or legs; and on the arm of one of the -squaws, we observed the name of J. Bowman, executed in the same way. In -language, habits, and in almost every other particular, they resemble -the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, and indeed all the people near the mouth of -the Columbia. They, however, seem to be inferior to their neighbours -in honesty as well as spirit. No ill treatment or indignity, on our -part, seems to excite any feeling, except fear; nor, although better -provided than their neighbours with arms, have they enterprise enough -to use them advantageously against the animals of the forest, nor -offensively against their neighbours; who owe their safety more to the -timidity than the forbearance of the Chinnooks. We had heard instances -of pilfering whilst we were amongst them, and therefore had a general -order, excluding them from our encampment; so that whenever an Indian -wished to visit us, he began by calling out “No Chinnook.” It may be -probable that this first impression left a prejudice against them, -since when we were among the Clatsops, and other tribes at the mouth -of the Columbia, the Indians had less opportunity of stealing, if they -were so disposed. - -Tuesday, 14, we were employed in jerking the meat of the elk, and -searching for one of the canoes which had been carried off by the tide -last night. Having found it, we now had three of them drawn up out of -reach of the water, and the other secured by a strong cord, so as to be -ready for any emergency. - -After many inquiries and much observation, we are at length enabled to -obtain a connected view of the nations, who reside along the coast, on -both sides of the Columbia. - -To the south, our personal observation has not extended beyond the -Killamucks; but we obtained from those who were acquainted with the -seacoast, a list of the Indian tribes, in the order in which they -succeed each other, to a considerable distance. The first nation to the -south are the Clatsops, who reside on the southern side of the bay, and -along the seacoast, on both sides of Point Adams. They are represented -as the remains of a much larger nation; but about four years ago, a -disorder, to which till then they were strangers, but which seems, from -their description, to have been the small-pox, destroyed four chiefs, -and several hundreds of the nation. These are deposited in canoes, a -few miles below us on the bay, and the survivors do not number more -than fourteen houses, and about two hundred souls. Next to them along -the southeast coast, is a much larger nation, the Killamucks, who -number fifty houses, and a thousand souls. Their first establishment -are the four huts at the mouth of Ecola creek, thirty-five miles from -Point Adams; and two miles below are a few more huts; but the principal -town is situated twenty miles lower, at the entrance of a creek, called -Nielee, into the bay, which we designate by the name of Killamucks -bay. Into the same bay empties a second creek, five miles further, -where is a Killamuck village, called Kilherhurst; at two miles a third -creek, and a town called Kilherner; and at the same distance a town -called _Chishuck_, at the mouth of Killamuck river. Towerquotton and -_Chucklin_, are the names of two other towns, situated on creeks which -empty into the bottom of the bay, the last of which is seventy miles -from Point Adams. The Killamuck river is about one hundred yards wide, -and very rapid; but having no perpendicular fall, is the great avenue -for trade. There are two small villages of Killamucks settled above -its mouth, and the whole trading part of the tribe ascend it, till by -a short portage, they carry their canoes over to the Columbian valley, -and descend the Multnomah to Wappatoo island. Here they purchase -roots, which they carry down the Chockalilum or Columbia; and, after -trafficking with the tribes on its banks for the various articles which -they require, either return up the Columbia, or cross over through -the country of the Clatsops. This trade, however, is obviously little -more than a loose and irregular barter, on a very small scale; for -the materials for commerce are so extremely scanty and precarious, -that the stranding of a whale was an important commercial incident, -which interested all the adjoining country. The Killamucks have little -peculiar, either in character or manners, and resemble, in almost every -particular, the Clatsops and Chinnooks. - -Adjoining the Killamucks, and in a direction S. S. E. are the Lucktons, -a small tribe inhabiting the seacoast. They speak the same language -as the Killamucks, but do not belong to the same nation. The same -observation applies to the Kahunkle nation, their immediate neighbours, -who are supposed to consist of about four hundred souls. - -The Lickawis, a still more numerous nation, who have a large town of -eight hundred souls. - -The Youkone nation, who live in very large houses, and number seven -hundred souls. - -The Necketo nation, of the same number of persons. - -The Ulseah nation, a small town of one hundred and fifty souls. - -The Youitts, a tribe who live in a small town, containing not more than -one hundred and fifty souls. - -The Shiastuckle nation, who have a large town of nine hundred souls. - -The Killawats nation of five hundred souls collected into one large -town. - -With this last nation ends the language of the Killamucks: and the -coast, which then turns towards the southwest, is occupied by nations -whose languages vary from that of the Killamucks, and from each other. -Of these, the first in order are, - -The Cookoooose, a large nation of one thousand five hundred souls, -inhabiting the shore of the Pacific and the neighboring mountains. -We have seen several of this nation who were taken prisoners by the -Clatsops and Killamucks. Their complexion was much fairer than that of -the Indians near the mouth of the Columbia, and their heads were not -flattened. Next to these are, - -The Shalalahs, of whom we know nothing, except their numbers, which are -computed at twelve hundred souls. Then follow, - -The Luckasos, of about the same number, and - -The Hannakalals, whom we estimate at six hundred souls. - -This is the extent of the Indian information, and judging, as we can -do, with considerable accuracy from the number of sleeps, or days -journey, the distance which these tribes occupy along the coast, may be -estimated at three hundred and sixty miles. - -On the north of the Columbia, we have already seen the Chinnooks, -of four hundred souls, along the shores of Haley’s bay, and the low -grounds on Chinnook river. Their nearest neighbours to the northeast are - -The Killaxthokle, a small nation on the coast, of not more than eight -houses, and a hundred souls. To these succeed - -The Chilts, who reside above Point Lewis, and who are estimated at -seven hundred souls, and thirty-eight houses. Of this nation, we -saw, transiently, a few among the Chinnooks, from whom they did not -appear to differ. Beyond the Chilts we have seen none of the northwest -Indians, and all that we learnt, consisted of an enumeration of their -names and numbers. The nations next to the Chilts, are - -The Clamoitomish, of twelve houses, and two hundred and sixty souls. - -The Potoashees, of ten houses, and two hundred souls. - -The Pailsk, of ten houses, and two hundred souls. - -The Quinults, of sixty houses, and one thousand souls. - -The Chillates, of eight houses, and one hundred and fifty souls. - -The Calasthorte, of ten houses, and two hundred souls. - -The Quinnechant, consisting of two thousand souls. - -A particular detail of the characters, manners, and habits of the -tribes, must be left to some future adventurers, who may have more -leisure and a better opportunity than we had to accomplish this object. -Those who first visit the ground, can only be expected to furnish -sketches rude and imperfect. - -Wednesday, 15. Two hunting parties intended setting out this morning, -but they were prevented by incessant rain, which confined us all to the -fort. - -The Chinnooks, Clatsops, and most of the adjoining nations dispose of -the dead in canoes. For this purpose a scaffold is erected, by fixing -perpendicularly in the ground four long pieces of split timber. These -are placed two by two just wide enough apart to admit the canoe, and -sufficiently long to support its two extremities. The boards are -connected by a bar of wood run through them at the height of six feet, -on which is placed a small canoe containing the body of the deceased, -carefully wrapped in a robe of dressed skins, with a paddle, and some -articles belonging to the deceased, by his side. Over this canoe is -placed one of a larger size, reversed, with its gunwale resting on -the crossbars, so as to cover the body completely. One or more large -mats of rushes or flags are then rolled round the canoes, and the -whole secured by cords usually made of the bark of the white cedar. On -these crossbars are hung different articles of clothing, or culinary -utensils. The method practised by the Killamucks differs somewhat from -this; the body being deposited in an oblong box, of plank, which, -with the paddle, and other articles, is placed in a canoe, resting on -the ground. With the religious opinions of these people we are but -little acquainted, since we understand their language too imperfectly -to converse on a subject so abstract; but it is obvious, from the -different deposits which they place by their dead, that they believe -in a future state of existence.[1] - - [1] This fact is much too equivocal to warrant an inference so - important. These deposits might have been intended for nothing - more than the testimonials of surviving affection. Amongst - those savages, where the language was better understood, it - does not appear, that the Indians intended any thing more - by such sacrifices than to testify their reverence for the - dead.--EDITOR. - -Thursday, 16. To-day we finished curing our meat, and having now a -plentiful supply of elk, and salt, and our houses dry and comfortable, -we wait patiently for the moment of resuming our journey. - -The implements used in hunting, by the Clatsops, Chinnooks, and other -neighbouring nations, are the gun, bow and arrow, deadfall, pits, -snares, and spears or gigs. The guns are generally old American or -British muskets repaired for this trade; and although there are some -good pieces among them, they are constantly out of order, as the -Indians have not been sufficiently accustomed to arms to understand the -management of them. The powder is kept in small japanned tin flasks, -in which the traders sell it; and when the ball or shot fails, they -make use of gravel or pieces of metal from their pots, without being -sensible of the injury done to their guns. These arms are reserved -for hunting elk, and the few deer and bears in this neighbourhood; -but as they have no rifles, they are not very successful hunters. -The most common weapon is the bow and arrow, with which every man is -provided, even though he carries a gun, and which is used in every kind -of hunting. The bow is extremely neat, and being very thin and flat, -possesses great elasticity. It is made of the heart of the white cedar, -about two feet and a half in length, two inches wide at the centre, -whence it tapers to the width of half an inch at the extremities; and -the back is covered with the sinews of elk, fastened on by means of a -glue made from the sturgeon. The string is formed of the same sinews. -The arrow generally consists of two parts; the first is about twenty -inches long, and formed of light white pine, with the feather at one -end, and at the other a circular hole, which receives the second part, -formed of some harder wood, and about five inches long, and secured in -its place by means of sinews. The barb is either stone, or else of iron -or copper, in which latter place, the angle is more obtuse than any we -have seen. If, as sometimes happens, the arrow is formed of a single -piece, the whole is of a more durable wood, but the form just described -is preferred; because, as much of the game consists of wildfowl, on the -ponds, it is desirable that they should be constructed so as to float, -if they fall into the water. These arrows are kept in a quiver of elk -or young bear skin, opening not at the ends, as the common quivers, -but at the sides; which, for those who hunt in canoes, is much more -convenient. These weapons are not, however, very powerful, for many of -the elk we kill have been wounded with them; and, although the barb -with the small end of the arrows remain, yet the flesh closes, and -the animal suffers no permanent injury. The deadfalls and snares are -used in taking the wolf, the racoon, and the fox, of which there are, -however, but few in this country. The spear or gig employed in pursuit -of the sea-otter, (which they call spuck) the common otter, and beaver, -consists of two points of barbs, and is like those already described, -as common among the Indians on the upper part of the Columbia. The -pits are chiefly for the elk, and are therefore usually large and deep -cubes of twelve or fourteen feet in depth, and are made by the side of -some fallen tree lying across the path frequented by the elk. They are -covered with slender boughs and moss, and the elk either sinks into it -as he approaches the tree, or in leaping over the tree, falls into the -pit on the other side. - -Friday 17. Comowool and seven other Clatsops spent the day with us. He -made us a present of some roots and berries, and in return we gave -him an awl and some thread, which he wanted for the purpose of making -a net. We were not able to purchase any more of their provisions, the -prices being too high for our exhausted stock of merchandise. One of -the Indians was dressed in three very elegant skins of the sea-otter: -for these we were very desirous of trafficking; but he refused every -exchange except that of blue beads, of which he asked six fathom for -each skin, and as we had only four fathom left, he would not accept for -the remaining two, either a knife, or any quantity of beads of another -sort. - -In fishing, the Clatsops, Chinnooks and other nations near this place -employ the common straight net, the scooping or dipping net with a -long handle, the gig, and the hook and line. The first is of different -lengths and depths, and used in taking salmon, carr, and trout, in -the deep inlets among the marshy grounds, and the mouths of deep -creeks. The scooping net is used for small fish, in the spring and -summer season; and in both kinds the net is formed of silk grass, or -the bark of white cedar. The gig is used at all seasons, and for all -kinds of fish they can procure with it; so too is the hook and line, of -which the line is made of the same material as the net, and the hook -generally brought by the traders; though before the whites came, they -made hooks out of two small pieces of bone, resembling the European -hook, but with a much more acute angle, where the two pieces were -joined. - -Saturday 18. We were all occupied, in dressing skins, and preparing -clothes for our journey homewards. The houses in this neighbourhood -are all large wooden buildings, varying in length from twenty to sixty -feet, and from fourteen to twenty in width. They are constructed in the -following manner. Two posts of split timber or more, agreeably to the -number of partitions, are sunk in the ground, above which they rise to -the height of fourteen or eighteen feet. They are hollowed at the top, -so as to receive the ends of a round beam or pole, stretching from one -to the other, and forming the upper point of the roof for the whole -extent of the building. On each side of this range is placed another, -which forms the eaves of the house, and is about five feet high; but -as the building is often sunk to the depth of four or five feet, the -eaves come very near the surface of the earth. Smaller pieces of timber -are now extended by pairs, in the form of rafters, from the lower -to the upper beam, where they are attached at both ends with cords -of cedar bark. On these rafters two or three ranges of small poles -are placed horizontally, and secured in the same way with strings of -cedar bark. The sides are now made with a range of wide boards, sunk a -small distance into the ground, with the upper ends projecting above -the poles at the eaves, to which they are secured by a beam passing -outside, parallel with the eavepoles, and tied by cords of cedar bark -passing through holes made in the boards at certain distances. The -gable ends and partitions are formed in the same way, being fastened by -beams on the outside, parallel to the rafters. The roof is then covered -with a double range of thin boards, except an aperture of two or three -feet in the centre, for the smoke to pass through. The entrance is by -a small hole, cut out of the boards, and just large enough to admit -the body. The very largest houses only are divided by partitions, for -though three or four families reside in the same room, there is quite -space enough for all of them. In the centre of each room is a space -six or eight feet square, sunk to the depth of twelve inches below -the rest of the floor, and inclosed by four pieces of square timber. -Here they make the fire, for which purpose pine bark is generally -preferred. Around this fireplace, mats are spread, and serve as seats -during the day, and very frequently as beds at night; there is however -a more permanent bed made, by fixing, in two or sometimes three sides -of the room, posts reaching from the roof down to the ground, and at -the distance of four feet from the wall. From these posts to the wall -itself, one or two ranges of boards are placed so as to form shelves, -on which they either sleep, or where they stow away their various -articles of merchandise. The uncured fish is hung in the smoke of their -fires, as is also the flesh of the elk, when they are fortunate enough -to procure any, which is but rarely. - -Sunday 20. This morning we sent out two parties of hunters in different -directions. Soon after we were visited by two Clatsop men and a woman, -who brought several articles to trade: we purchased a small quantity -of train oil for a pair of brass armbands, and succeeded in obtaining -a sea-otter skin, for which we gave our only remaining four fathoms -of blue beads, the same quantity of white ones, and a knife: we gave -a fish-hook also in exchange for one of their hats. These are made -of cedar bark and bear-grass, interwoven together in the form of an -European hat, with a small brim of about two inches, and a high crown, -widening upwards. They are light, ornamented with various colours and -figures, and being nearly water-proof, are much more durable than -either chip or straw hats. These hats form a small article of traffic -with the whites, and the manufacture is one of the best exertions of -Indian industry. They are, however, very dexterous in making a variety -of domestic utensils, among which are bowls, spoons, scewers, spits, -and baskets. The bowl or trough is of different shapes, sometimes -round, semicircular, in the form of a canoe, or cubic, and generally -dug out of a single piece of wood, the larger vessels having holes in -the sides by way of handle, and all executed with great neatness. In -these vessels they boil their food, by throwing hot stones into the -water, and extract oil from different animals in the same way. Spoons -are not very abundant, nor is there any thing remarkable in their -shape, except that they are large and the bowl broad. Meat is roasted -on one end of a sharp scewer, placed erect before the fire, with the -other fixed in the ground. The spit for fish is split at the top into -two parts, between which the fish is placed, cut open, with its sides -extended by means of small splinters. The usual plate is a small mat -of rushes or flags, on which every thing is served. The instrument -with which they dig up roots, is a strong stick, about three feet and -a half long, sharpened and a little curved at the lower end, while the -upper is inserted into a handle, standing transversely, and made of -part of an elk or buck’s horn. But the most curious workmanship is that -of the basket. It is formed of cedar bark and bear-grass, so closely -interwoven, that it is water tight, without the aid of either gum or -resin. The form is generally conic, or rather the segment of a cone, -of which the smaller end is the bottom of the basket; and being made -of all sizes, from that of the smallest cup to the capacity of five or -six gallons, answer the double purpose of a covering for the head or -to contain water. Some of them are highly ornamented with strands of -bear-grass, woven into figures of various colours, which require great -labour; yet they are made very expeditiously and sold for a trifle. It -is for the construction of these baskets, that the bear-grass forms an -article of considerable traffic. It grows only near the snowy region -of the high mountains, and the blade, which is two feet long and about -three-eighths of an inch wide, is smooth, strong and pliant; the young -blades particularly, from their not being exposed to the sun and air, -have an appearance of great neatness, and are generally preferred. -Other bags and baskets, not water-proof, are made of cedar bark, -silk-grass, rushes, flags, and common coarse sedge, for the use of -families. In the manufactures, as well as in the ordinary work of the -house, the instrument most in use is a knife, or rather a dagger. The -handle of it is small, and has a strong loop of twine for the thumb, -to prevent its being wrested from the hand. On each side is a blade, -double-edged and pointed; the longer from nine to ten inches, the -shorter from four to five. This knife is carried about habitually in -the hand, sometimes exposed, but mostly when in company with strangers, -put under the robe. - -Monday, 20. We were visited by three Clatsops, who came merely for -the purpose of smoking and conversing with us. We have now only -three days’ provision, yet so accustomed have the men become to live -sparingly, and fast occasionally, that such a circumstance excites no -concern, as we all calculate on our dexterity as hunters. The industry -of the Indians is not confined to household utensils: the great proof -of their skill is the construction of their canoes. In a country, -indeed, where so much of the intercourse between different tribes is -carried on by water, the ingenuity of the people would naturally direct -itself to the improvement of canoes, which would gradually become, from -a mere safe conveyance, to an elegant ornament. We have accordingly -seen, on the Columbia, canoes of many forms, beginning with the simple -boats near the mountains, to those more highly decorated, because more -useful nearer the mouth of the Columbia. Below the grand cataract there -are four forms of canoes: the first and smallest is about fifteen feet -long, and calculated for one or two persons: it is, indeed, by no means -remarkable in its structure, and is chiefly employed by the Cathlamahs -and Wahkiacums among the marshy islands. The second is from twenty -to thirty-five feet long, about two and a half or three feet in the -beam, and two feet in the hold. It is chiefly remarkable in having the -bowsprit, which rises to some height above the bow, formed by tapering -gradually from the sides into a sharp point. Canoes of this shape are -common to all the nations below the grand rapids. - -But the canoes most used by the Columbia Indians, from the -Chilluckittequaws inclusive, to the ocean, are about thirty or -thirty-five feet long. The bow, which looks more like the stern of our -boats, is higher than the other end, and is ornamented with a sort of -comb, an inch in thickness, cut out of the same log which forms the -canoe, and extending nine or eleven inches from the bowsprit to the -bottom of the boat. The stern is nearly rounded off, and gradually -ascends to a point. This canoe is very light and convenient; for though -it will contain ten or twelve persons, it may be carried with great -ease by four. - -The fourth and largest species of canoe we did not meet till we reached -tide-water, near the grand rapids below, in which place they are found -among all the nations, especially the Killamucks, and others residing -on the seacoast. They are upwards of fifty feet long, and will carry -from eight to ten thousand pounds weight, or from twenty to thirty -persons. Like all the canoes we have mentioned, they are cut out of -a single trunk of a tree, which is generally white cedar, though the -fir is sometimes used. The sides are secured by crossbars, or round -sticks, two or three inches in thickness, which are inserted through -holes made just below the gunwale, and made fast with cords. The upper -edge of the gunwale itself is about five eighths of an inch thick, -and four or five in breadth, and folds outwards, so as to form a kind -of rim, which prevents the water from beating into the boat. The bow -and stern are about the same height, and each provided with a comb, -reaching to the bottom of the boat. At each end, also, are pedestals, -formed of the same solid piece, on which are placed strange grotesque -figures of men or animals, rising sometimes to the height of five -feet, and composed of small pieces of wood, firmly united, with great -ingenuity, by inlaying and mortising, without a spike of any kind. The -paddle is usually from four feet and a half to five feet in length; -the handle being thick for one third of its length, when it widens, -and is hollowed and thinned on each side of the centre, which forms -a sort of rib. When they embark, one Indian sits in the stern, and -steers with a paddle, the others kneel in pairs in the bottom of the -canoe, and sitting on their heels, paddle over the gunwale next to -them. In this way they ride with perfect safety the highest waves, -and venture without the least concern in seas, where other boats or -seamen could not live an instant. They sit quietly and paddle, with -no other movement; except, when any large wave throws the boat on -her side, and, to the eye of a spectator, she seems lost: the man to -windward then steadies her by throwing his body towards the upper -side, and sinking his paddle deep into the wave, appears to catch the -water and force it under the boat, which the same stroke pushes on -with great velocity. In the management of these canoes the women are -equally expert with the men; for in the smaller boats, which contain -four oarsmen, the helm is generally given to the female. As soon as -they land, the canoe is generally hauled on shore, unless she be very -heavily laden; but at night the load is universally discharged, and the -canoe brought on shore. - -Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was -increased by observing the very inadequate implements with which they -are made. These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool -employed in their building, from felling of the tree to the delicate -workmanship of the images, is a chisel made of an old file, about an -inch or an inch and a half in width. Even of this too, they have not -yet learnt the management, for the chisel is sometimes fixed in a -large block of wood, and being held in the right hand, the block is -pushed with the left without the aid of a mallet. But under all these -disadvantages, these canoes, which one would suppose to be the work -of years, are made in a few weeks. A canoe, however, is very highly -prized: in traffic, it is an article of the greatest value, except a -wife, which is of equal consideration; so that a lover generally gives -a canoe to the father in exchange for his daughter. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - An account of the Clatsops, Killamucks, Chinnooks and - Cathlamahs--their uniform custom of flattening the - forehead--the dress of these savages, and their ornaments, - described--the licensed prostitution of the women, married - and unmarried, of which a ludicrous instance is given--the - character of their diseases--the common opinion, that the - treatment of women is the standard by which the virtues of an - Indian may be known, combatted, and disproved by examples--the - respect entertained by these Indians for old age, compared - with the different conduct of those nations who subsist by the - chase--their mode of government--their ignorance of ardent - spirits, and their fondness for gambling--their dexterity - in traffic--in what articles their traffic consists--their - extraordinary attachment to blue beads, which forms their - circulating medium. - - -Tuesday, 21. Two of the hunters came back with three elk, which form a -timely addition to our stock of provisions. The Indian visiters left us -at twelve o’clock. - -The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks, and Cathlamahs, the four -neighbouring nations with whom we have had most intercourse, preserve -a general resemblance in person, dress, and manners. They are commonly -of a diminutive stature, badly shaped, and their appearance by no -means prepossessing. They have broad thick flat feet, thick ankles, -and crooked legs: the last of which deformities is to be ascribed, -in part, to the universal practice of squatting, or sitting on the -calves of their legs and heels, and also to the tight bandages of -beads and strings worn round the ankles, by the women, which prevent -the circulation of the blood, and render the legs, of the females, -particularly, ill shaped and swollen. The complexion is the usual -copper coloured brown of the North American tribes, though the -complexion is rather lighter than that of the Indians of the Missouri, -and the frontier of the United States: the mouth is wide and the lips -thick; the nose of a moderate size, fleshy, wide at the extremities, -with large nostrils, and generally low between the eyes, though there -are rare instances of high acqueline noses; the eyes are generally -black, though we occasionally see them of a dark yellowish brown, with -a black pupil. But the most distinguishing part of their physiognomy, -is the peculiar flatness and width of their forehead, a peculiarity -which they owe to one of these customs by which nature is sacrificed to -fantastic ideas of beauty. The custom, indeed, of flattening the head -by artificial pressure during infancy, prevails among all the nations -we have seen west of the rocky mountains. To the east of that barrier, -the fashion is so perfectly unknown, that there the western Indians, -with the exception of the Alliatan or Snake nation, are designated by -the common name of Flatheads. The singular usage, which nature could -scarcely seem to suggest to remote nations, might perhaps incline -us to believe in the common and not very ancient origin of all the -western nations. Such an opinion might well accommodate itself with -the fact, that while on the lower parts of the Columbia, both sexes -are universally flatheads, the custom diminishes in receding eastward, -from the common centre of the infection, till among the remoter tribes -near the mountains, nature recovers her rights, and the wasted folly -is confined to a few females. Such opinions, however, are corrected -or weakened by considering that the flattening of the head is not, in -fact, peculiar to that part of the continent, since it was among the -first objects which struck the attention of Columbus. - -But wherever it may have begun, the practice is now universal among -these nations. Soon after the birth of her child, the mother, anxious -to procure for her infant the recommendation of a broad forehead, -places it in the compressing machine, where it is kept for ten or -twelve months; though the females remain longer than the boys. The -operation is so gradual, that it is not attended with pain; but the -impression is deep and permanent. The heads of the children, when -they are released from the bandage, are not more than two inches thick -about the upper edge of the forehead, and still thinner above: nor with -all its efforts can nature ever restore its shape; the heads of grown -persons being often in a straight line from the nose to the top of the -forehead. - -The hair of both sexes is parted at the top of the head, and thence -falls loosely behind the ears, over the back and shoulders. They use -combs, of which they are very fond, and indeed, contrive without the -aid of them, to keep their hair in very good order. The dress of the -man consists in a small robe, reaching to the middle of the thigh, -tied by a string across the breast, with its corners hanging loosely -over their arms. These robes are, in general, composed of the skins -of a small animal, which we have supposed to be the brown mungo. They -have besides, those of the tiger, cat, deer, panther, bear, and elk, -which last is principally used in war parties. Sometimes they have a -blanket woven with the fingers, from the wool of their native sheep; -occasionally a mat is thrown over them to keep off rain; but except -this robe, they have no other article of clothing during winter or -summer, so that every part of the body, but the back and shoulders, is -exposed to view. They are very fond of the dress of the whites, whom -they call pashisheooks or clothmen; and whenever they can procure any -clothes, wear them in our manner: the only article, indeed, which we -have not seen among them is the shoe. - -The robe of the women is like that worn by the men, except that it does -not reach below the waist. Those most esteemed are made of strips of -sea-otter skin, which being twisted are interwoven with silk-grass, -or the bark of the white cedar, in such a manner that the fur appears -equally on both sides, so as to form a soft and warm covering. The skin -of the racoon or beaver are also employed in the same way, though on -other occasions these skins are simply dressed in the hair, and worn -without further preparation. The garment which covers the body from the -waist as low as the knee before and the thigh behind, is the tissue -already described, and is made either of the bruised bark of white -cedar, the twisted cords of silk-grass, or of flags and rushes. Neither -leggings nor moccasins are ever used, the mildness of the climate not -requiring them as a security from the weather, and their being so much -in the water rendering them an incumberance. The only covering for the -head is a hat made of bear-grass, and the bark of cedar, interwoven -in a conic form, with a knob of the same shape at the top. It has no -brim, but is held on the head by a string passing under the chin, -and tied to a small rim inside of the hat. The colours are generally -black and white only, and these are made into squares, triangles, and -sometimes rude figures of canoes and seamen harpooning whales. This is -all the usual dress of females; but if the weather be unusually severe, -they add a vest formed of skins like the robe, tied behind, without -any shoulder-straps to keep it up. As this vest covers the body from -the armpits to the waist, it conceals the breasts, but on all other -occasions they are suffered to remain loose and exposed, and present, -in old women especially, a most disgusting appearance. - -Sometimes, though not often, they mark their skins by puncturing and -introducing some coloured matter: this ornament is chiefly confined to -the women, who imprint on their legs and arms, circular or parallel -dots. On the arm of one of the squaws we read the name of J. Bowman, -apparently a trader who visits the mouth of the Columbia. The favourite -decoration however of both sexes, are the common coarse blue or white -beads, which are folded very tightly round their wrists and ancles, to -the width of three or four inches, and worn in large loose rolls round -the neck, or in the shape of earrings, or hanging from the nose, which -last mode is peculiar to the men. There is also a species of wampum -very much in use, which seems to be worn in its natural form without -any preparation. Its shape is a cone somewhat curved, about the size of -a raven’s quill at the base, and tapering to a point, its whole length -being from one to two and a half inches, and white, smooth, hard and -thin. A small thread is passed through it, and the wampum is either -suspended from the nose, or passed through the cartilage horizontally, -and forms a ring, from which other ornaments hang. This wampum is -employed in the same way as the beads, but is the favourite decoration -for the noses of the men. The men also use collars made of bears’ -claws, the women and children those of elks’ tusks, and both sexes are -adorned with bracelets of copper, iron, or brass, in various forms. - -Yet all these decorations are unavailing to conceal the deformities -of nature and the extravagance of fashion; nor have we seen any more -disgusting object than a Chinnook or Clatsop beauty in full attire. -Their broad flat foreheads, their falling breasts, their ill shaped -limbs, the aukwardness of their positions, and the filth which intrudes -through their finery; all these render a Chinnook or Clatsop beauty in -full attire, one of the most disgusting objects in nature. Fortunately -this circumstance conspired with the low diet and laborious exercise -of our men, to protect them from the persevering gallantry of the -fair sex, whose kindness always exceeded the ordinary courtesies -of hospitality. Among these people, as indeed among all Indians, -the prostitution of unmarried women is so far from being considered -criminal or improper, that the females themselves solicit the favours -of the other sex, with the entire approbation of their friends and -connexions. The person is in fact often the only property of a young -female, and is therefore the medium of trade, the return for presents, -and the reward for services. In most cases, however, the female is so -much at the disposal of her husband or parent, that she is farmed out -for hire. The Chinnook woman, who brought her six female relations -to our camp, had regular prices, proportioned to the beauty of each -female; and among all the tribes, a man will lend his wife or daughter -for a fish-hook or a strand of beads. To decline an offer of this -sort is indeed to disparage the charms of the lady, and therefore -gives such offence, that although we had occasionally to treat the -Indians with rigour, nothing seemed to irritate both sexes more than -our refusal to accept the favours of the females. On one occasion we -were amused by a Clatsop, who having been cured of some disorder by -our medical skill, brought his sister as a reward for our kindness. -The young lady was quite anxious to join in this expression of her -brother’s gratitude, and mortified that we did not avail ourselves of -it, she could not be prevailed on to leave the fort, but remained with -Chaboneau’s wife, in the next room to ours, for two or three days, -declining all the solicitations of the men, till finding, at last, -that we did not relent, she went away, regretting that her brother’s -obligations were unpaid. - -The little intercourse which the men have had with these women is, -however, sufficient to apprise us of the prevalence of the venereal -disease, with which one or two of the party had been so much afflicted, -as to render a salivation necessary. The infection in these cases was -communicated by the Chinnook women. The others do not appear to be -afflicted with it to any extent: indeed, notwithstanding this disorder -is certainly known to the Indians on the Columbia, yet the number -of infected persons is very inconsiderable. The existence of such a -disorder is very easily detected, particularly in the men, in their -open style of dress; yet in the whole route down the Columbia, we have -not seen more than two or three cases of gonorrhœa, and about double -that number of lues venerea. There does not seem to be any simples -which are used as specifics in this disorder, nor is any complete -cure ever effected. When once a patient is seized, the disorder ends -with his life only; though from the simplicity of their diet, and -the use of certain vegetables, they support it for many years with -but little inconvenience, and even enjoy tolerable health; yet their -life is always abridged by decrepitude or premature old age. The -Indians, who are mostly successful in treating this disorder, are the -Chippeways. Their specifics are the root of the lobelia, and that of a -species of sumac, common to the United States, the neighborhood of the -rocky mountains, and to the countries westward, and which is readily -distinguished by being the smallest of its kind, and by its winged rib, -or common footstalk, supporting leaves oppositely pinnate. Decoctions -of the roots are used very freely, without any limitation, and are said -to soften the violence of the lues, and even to be sovereign in the -cure of the gonorrhœa. - -The Clatsops and other nations at the mouth of the Columbia, have -visited us with great freedom, and we have endeavoured to cultivate -their intimacy, as well for the purpose of acquiring information, as -to leave behind us impressions favourable to our country. In their -intercourse with us they are very loquacious and inquisitive. Having -acquired much of their language, we are enabled with the assistance -of gestures, to hold conversations with great ease. We find them -inquisitive and loquacious, with understandings by no means deficient -in acuteness, and with very retentive memories; and though fond of -feasts, and generally cheerful, they are never gay. Every thing they -see excites their attention and inquiries, but having been accustomed -to see the whites, nothing appeared to give them more astonishment than -the air-gun. To all our inquiries they answer with great intelligence, -and the conversation rarely slackens, since there is a constant -discussion of the events, and trade, and polities, in the little but -active circle of Killamucks, Clatsops, Cathlamahs, Wahkiacums, and -Chinnooks. Among themselves, the conversation generally turns on the -subjects of trade, or smoking, or eating, or connexion with females, -before whom this last is spoken of with familiarity which would be in -the highest degree indecent, if custom had not rendered it inoffensive. - -The treatment of women is often considered as the standard by which the -moral qualities of savages are to be estimated. Our own observation, -however, induced us to think that the importance of the female in -savage life, has no necessary relation to the virtues of the men, -but is regulated wholly by their capacity to be useful. The Indians -whose treatment of the females is mildest, and who pay most deference -to their opinions, are by no means the most distinguished for their -virtues; nor is this deference attended by any increase of attachment, -since they are equally willing with the most brutal husband, to -prostitute their wives to strangers. On the other hand, the tribes -among whom the women are very much debased, possess the loftiest sense -of honour, the greatest liberality, and all the good qualities of -which their situation demands the exercise. Where the women can aid -in procuring subsistence for the tribe, they are treated with more -equality, and their importance is proportioned to the share which they -take in that labour; while in countries where subsistence is chiefly -procured by the exertions of the men, the women are considered and -treated as burdens. Thus, among the Clatsops and Chinnooks, who live -upon fish and roots, which the women are equally expert with the men -in procuring, the former have a rank and influence very rarely found -among Indians. The females are permitted to speak freely before the -men, to whom indeed they sometimes address themselves in a tone of -authority. On many subjects their judgments and opinions are respected, -and in matters of trade, their advice is generally asked and pursued. -The labours of the family too, are shared almost equally. The men -collect wood and make fires, assist in cleansing the fish, make the -houses, canoes, and wooden utensils; and whenever strangers are to be -entertained, or a great feast prepared, the meats are cooked and served -up by the men. The peculiar province of the female is to collect roots, -and to manufacture the various articles which are formed of rushes, -flags, cedar-bark, and bear-grass; but the management of the canoes, -and many of the occupations, which elsewhere devolves wholly on the -female, are here common to both sexes. - -The observation with regard to the importance of females, applies with -equal force to the treatment of old men. Among tribes who subsist by -hunting, the labours of the chase, and the wandering existence to -which that occupation condemns them, necessarily throws the burden of -procuring provisions on the active young men. As soon, therefore, as a -man is unable to pursue the chase, he begins to withdraw something from -the precarious supplies of the tribe. Still, however, his counsels may -compensate his want of activity; but in the next stage of infirmity, -when he can no longer travel from camp to camp, as the tribe roams -about for subsistence, he is then found to be a heavy burden. In this -situation they are abandoned among the Sioux, Assiniboins, and the -hunting tribes on the Missouri. As they are setting out for some new -excursion, where the old man is unable to follow, his children, or -nearest relations, place before him a piece of meat and some water, and -telling him that he has lived long enough, that it is now time for him -to go home to his relations, who could take better care of him than -his friends on earth, leave him, without remorse, to perish, when his -little supply is exhausted. The same custom is said to prevail among -the Minnetarees, Ahnahawas, and Ricaras, when they are attended by -old men on their hunting excursions. Yet, in their villages, we saw -no want of kindness to old men. On the contrary, probably because in -villages, the means of more abundant subsistence renders such cruelty -unnecessary, the old people appeared to be treated with attention, and -some of their feasts, particularly the buffaloe dances, were intended -chiefly as a contribution for the old and infirm. - -The dispositions of these people seem mild and inoffensive, and they -have uniformly behaved to us with great friendship. They are addicted -to begging and pilfering small articles, when it can be done without -danger of detection, but do not rob wantonly, nor to any large amount; -and some of them having purloined some of our meat, which the hunters -had been obliged to leave in the woods, they voluntarily brought some -dogs a few days after, by way of compensation. Our force and great -superiority in the use of firearms, enable us always to command, and -such is the friendly deportment of these people, that the men have -been accustomed to treat them with the greatest confidence. It is -therefore with difficulty that we can impress on our men a conviction -of the necessity of being always on our guard, since we are perfectly -acquainted with the treacherous character of Indians in general. We are -always prepared for an attack, and uniformly exclude all large parties -of Indians from the fort. Their large houses usually contain several -families, consisting of the parents, their sons and daughters-in-law, -and grand children, among whom the provisions are common, and whose -harmony is scarcely ever interrupted by disputes. Although polygamy -is permitted by their customs, very few have more than a single wife, -and she is brought immediately after the marriage into the husband’s -family, where she resides until increasing numbers oblige them to seek -another house. In this state the old man is not considered as the head -of the family, since the active duties, as well as the responsibility, -fall on some of the younger members. As these families gradually -expand into bands or tribes or nations, the paternal authority is -represented by the chief of each association. This chieftain however -is not hereditary; his ability to render service to his neighbours, -and the popularity which follows it, is at once the foundation and the -measure of his authority, the exercise of which does not extend beyond -a reprimand for some improper action. - -The harmony of their private life is indeed secured by their ignorance -of spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present which -civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. Although -they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do not appear to -possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; at least they have -never inquired after them; which they probably would have done if -once they had been introduced among them. Indeed we have not observed -any liquor of an intoxicating quality used among these or any Indians -west of the Rocky mountains, the universal beverage being pure water. -They however sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco -of which they are excessively fond, and the pleasures of which they -prolong as much as possible, by retaining vast quantities at a time, -till after circulating through the lungs and stomach it issues in -volumes from the mouth and nostrils. But the natural vice of all these -people is an attachment for games of hazard which they pursue with a -strange and ruinous avidity. The games are of two kinds. In the first, -one of the company assumes the office of banker, and plays against -the rest. He takes a small stone, about the size of a bean, which he -shifts from one hand to the other with great dexterity, repeating at -the same time a song adapted to the game, and which serves to divert -the attention of the company, till having agreed on the stake, he -holds out his hands, and the antagonist wins or loses as he succeeds -or fails at guessing in which hand the stone is. After the banker has -lost his money, or whenever he is tired, the stone is transferred to -another, who in turn challenges the rest of the company. The other -game is something like the play of ninepins; two pins are placed on -the floor, about the distance of a foot from each other, and a small -hole made behind them. The players then go about ten feet from the -hole, into which they try to roll a small piece resembling the men -used at draughts; if they succeed in putting it into the hole, they -win the stake; if the piece rolls between the pins, but does not go -into the hole, nothing is won or lost; but the wager is wholly lost if -the chequer rolls outside of the pins. Entire days are wasted at these -games, which are often continued through the night round the blaze of -their fires, till the last article of clothing or even the last blue -bead is won from the desperate adventurer. - -In traffic, they are keen, acute and intelligent, and they employ -in all their bargains a dexterity and finesse, which, if it be not -learnt from their foreign visitors, may show how nearly the cunning -of savages is allied to the little arts of more civilized trade. They -begin by asking double or treble the value of their merchandise, and -lower the demand in proportion to the ardor or experience in trade -of the purchaser; and if he expresses any anxiety, the smallest -article, perhaps a handfull of roots, will furnish a whole morning’s -negotiation. Being naturally suspicious, they of course conceive -that you are pursuing the same system. They, therefore, invariably -refuse the first offer, however high, fearful that they or we have -mistaken the value of the merchandise, and therefore cautiously wait -to draw us on to larger offers. In this way, after rejecting the most -extravagant prices, which we have offered merely for experiment, they -have afterwards importuned us for a tenth part of what they had before -refused. In this respect, they differ from almost all Indians, who will -generally exchange in a thoughtless moment the most valuable article -they possess, for any bauble which happens to please their fancy. - -These habits of cunning, or prudence, have been formed or increased by -their being engaged in a large part of the commerce of the Columbia; -of that trade, however, the great emporium is the falls, where all -the neighbouring nations assemble. The inhabitants of the Columbian -plains, after having passed the winter near the mountains, come down as -soon as the snow has left the valleys, and are occupied in collecting -and drying roots, till about the month of May. They then crowd to -the river, and fixing themselves on its north side, to avoid the -incursions of the Snake Indians, continue fishing, till about the first -of September, when the salmon are no longer fit for use. They then -bury their fish and return to the plains, where they remain gathering -quamash, till the snow obliges them to desist. They come back to the -Columbia, and taking their store of fish, retire to the foot of the -mountains, and along the creeks, which supply timber for houses, and -pass the winter in hunting deer or elk, which, with the aid of their -fish, enables them to subsist till in the spring they resume the circle -of their employments. During their residence on the river, from May to -September, or rather before they begin the regular fishery, they go -down to the falls, carrying with them skins, mats, silk grass, rushes, -and chappelell bread. They are here overtaken by the Chopunnish, and -other tribes of the Rocky mountains, who descend the Kooskooskee and -Lewis’s river for the purpose of selling bear-grass, horses, quamash, -and a few skins which they have obtained by hunting, or in exchange for -horses, with the Tushepaws. - -At the falls, they find the Chilluckittequaws, Eneeshurs, Echeloots, -and Skilloots, which last serve as intermediate traders or carriers -between the inhabitants above and below the falls. These tribes prepare -pounded fish for the market, and the nations below bring wappatoo, -roots, the fish of the seacoast, berries, and a variety of trinkets and -small articles which they have procured from the whites. - -The trade then begins. The Chopunnish, and Indians of the Rocky -mountains, exchange the articles which they have brought for wappatoo, -pounded fish, and beads. The Indians of the plains being their own -fishermen, take only wappatoo, horses, beads, and other articles, -procured from Europeans. The Indians, however, from Lewis’s river -to the falls, consume as food or fuel all the fish which they take; -so that the whole stock for exportation is prepared by the nations -between the Towahnahiooks and the falls, and amounts, as nearly as -we could estimate, to about thirty thousand weight, chiefly salmon, -above the quantity which they use themselves, or barter with the more -eastern Indians. This is now carried down the river by the Indians -at the falls, and is consumed among the nations at the mouth of the -Columbia, who in return give the fish of the seacoast, and the articles -which they obtain from the whites. The neighbouring people catch -large quantities of salmon and dry them, but they do not understand or -practice the art of drying and pounding it in the manner used at the -falls, and being very fond of it, are forced to purchase it at high -prices. This article, indeed, and the wappatoo, form the principle -subjects of trade with the people of our immediate vicinity. The -traffic is wholly carried on by water; there are even no roads or paths -through the country, except across the portages which connect the -creeks. - -But the circumstance which forms the soul of this trade, is the visit -of the whites. They arrive generally about the month of April, and -either remain until October, or return at that time; during which -time, having no establishment on shore, they anchor on the north side -of the bay, at the place already described, which is a spacious and -commodious harbour, perfectly secure from all except the south and -southeast winds; and as they leave it before winter, they do not suffer -from these winds, which, during that season, are the most usual and -the most violent. This situation is recommended by its neighbourhood -to fresh water and wood, as well as to excellent timber for repairs. -Here they are immediately visited by the tribes along the seacoast, by -the Cathlamahs, and lastly by the Skilloots, that numerous and active -people, who skirt the river between the marshy islands and the grand -rapids, as well as the Coweliskee, and who carry down the fish prepared -by their immediate neighbours the Chilluckittequaws, Eneeshurs, and -Echeeloots, residing from the grand rapids to the falls, as well as -all the articles which they have procured in barter at the market in -May. The accumulated trade of the Columbia now consists of dressed and -undressed skins of elk, sea-otter, the common otter, beaver, common -fox, spuck, and tiger cat. The articles of less importance, are a -small quantity of dried or pounded salmon, the biscuits made of the -chapelell roots, and some of the manufactures of the neighbourhood. -In return they receive guns (which are principally old British or -American muskets), powder, ball and shot, copper and brass kettles, -brass tea-kettles, and coffee-pots, blankets, from two to three points, -coarse scarlet and blue cloth, plates and strips of sheet copper and -brass, large brass wire, knives, tobacco, fish-hooks, buttons, and a -considerable quantity of sailors’ hats, trowsers, coats and shirts. But -as we have had occasion to remark more than once, the object of foreign -trade which is the most desired, are the common cheap, blue or white -beads, of about fifty or seventy to the penny weight, which are strung -on strands a fathom in length, and sold by the yard, or the length of -both arms: of these blue beads, which are called tia commashuck, or -chief beads, hold the first rank in their ideas of relative value: -the most inferior kind, are esteemed beyond the finest wampum, and -are temptations which can always seduce them to part with their most -valuable effects. Indeed, if the example of civilized life did not -completely vindicate their choice, we might wonder at their infatuated -attachment to a bauble in itself so worthless. Yet these beads are, -perhaps, quite as reasonable objects of research as the precious -metals, since they are at once beautiful ornaments for the person, -and the great circulating medium of trade with all the nations on the -Columbia. - -These strangers who visit the Columbia for the purpose of trade or -hunting, must be either English or Americans. The Indians inform us -that they speak the same language as we do, and indeed the few words -which the Indians have learnt from the sailors, such as musket, powder, -shot, knife, file, heave the lead, damned rascal, and other phrases of -that description, evidently show that the visitors speak the English -language. But as the greater part of them usually arrive in April, and -either remain till autumn, or revisit them at that time, which we could -not clearly understand, the trade cannot be direct from either England -or the United States, since the ships could not return thither during -the remainder of the year. When the Indians are asked where these -traders go on leaving the Columbia, they always point to the southwest, -whence we presume that they do not belong to any establishment at -Nootka Sound. They do, however, mention a trader by the name of Moore, -who sometimes touches at this place, and the last time he came, he -had on board three cows; and when he left them, continued along the -northwest coast, which renders it probable, that there may be a -settlement of whites in that direction. The names and description -of all these persons who visit them in the spring and autumn are -remembered with great accuracy, and we took down, exactly as they were -pronounced, the following list. The favourite trader is - -Mr. Haley, who visits them in a vessel with three masts, and continues -some time. The others are - -Youens, who comes also in a three masted vessel, and is a trader. - -Tallamon, in a three masted vessel, but he is not a trader. - -Callalamet in a ship of the same size, he is a trader, and they say has -a wooden leg. - - Swipton three masted vessel. trader. - Moore four do. do. - Mackey three do. do. - Washington three do. do. - Mesship three do. do. - Davidson three do. does not trade, but hunts elk. - Jackson three do. trader. - Bolch three do. do. - -Skelley, also a trader, in a vessel with three masts, but he has been -gone for some years. He had only one eye. - -It might be difficult to adjust the balance of the advantages or the -dangers of this trade to the nations of the Columbia, against the sale -of their furs, and the acquisition of a few bad guns and household -utensils. - -The nations near the mouth of the Columbia enjoy great tranquillity; -none of the tribes being engaged in war. Not long since, however, -there was a war on the coast to the southwest, in which the Killamucks -took several prisoners. These, as far as we could perceive, were -treated very well, and though nominally slaves, yet were adopted into -the families of their masters, and the young ones placed on the same -footing with the children of the purchaser. - -The month of February and the greater part of March were passed in the -same manner. Every day, parties as large as we could spare them from -our other occupations were sent out to hunt, and we were thus enabled -to command some days’ provision in advance. It consisted chiefly of -deer and elk; the first is very lean, and the flesh by no means as -good as that of the elk, which, though poor, is getting better: it is -indeed our chief dependence. At this time of the year it is in much -better order in the prairies near the point, where they feed on grass -and rushes, considerable quantities of which are yet green, than in -the woody country up the Netul. There, they subsist on huckleberry -bushes and fern, but chiefly on evergreen, called shallun, resembling -the laurel, which abounds through all the timbered lands, particularly -along the broken sides of hills. Toward the latter end of the month, -however, they left the prairies near Point Adams, and retired back to -the hills; but fortunately, at the same time the sturgeon and anchovies -began to appear, and afforded us a delightful variety of food. In the -mean time, the party on the seacoast supplied us with salt: but though -the kettles were kept boiling all day and night, the salt was made but -slowly; nor was it till the middle of this month that we succeeded in -procuring twenty gallons, of which twelve were put in kegs for our -journey as far as the deposits on the Missouri. - -The neighbouring tribes continued to visit us, for the purpose of -trading or merely to smoke with us. But on the 21st, a Chinnook chief, -whom we had never seen, came over with twenty-five of his men. His name -was Taheum, a man of about fifty years of age, with a larger figure -and a better carriage than most of his nation. We received him with -the usual ceremonies, gave the party something to eat, smoked most -copiously with them all, and presented the chief with a small medal. -They were all satisfied with their treatment; and though we were -willing to show the chief every civility, could not dispense with our -rule of not suffering so many strangers to sleep in the fort. They, -therefore, left us at sunset. On the twenty-fourth, Comowool, who -is by far the most friendly and decent savage we have seen in this -neighbourhood, came with a large party of Clatsops, bringing among -other articles, sturgeon and a small fish, which has just begun, within -a day or two past, to make their appearance in the Columbia. - -From this time, as the elk became scarce and lean, we made use of these -fish whenever we could catch them, or purchase them from the Indians. -But as we were too poor to indulge very largely in those luxuries, -the diet was by no means pleasant, and to the sick, especially, was -unwholesome. On the 15th of March we were visited by Delashilwilt, the -Chinnook chief, and his wife, accompanied by the same six damsels, -who in the autumn had encamped near us, on the other side of the bay, -and whose favours had been so troublesome to several of the men. They -formed a camp close to the fort, and began to renew their addresses -very assiduously, but we warned the men of the dangers of intercourse -with this frail society, and they cautiously abstained from connexion -with them. - -During the greater part of this month, five or six of the men were -sick; indeed, we have not had so many complaining since we left Wood -river; the general complaint is a bad cold and fever, something in the -nature of an influenza, which, joined with a few cases of venereal, and -accidental injuries, complete our invalid corps. These disorders may -chiefly be imputed to the nature of the climate. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - A general description of the beasts, birds and plants, &c. - found by the party in this expedition. - - -The vegetable productions of the country, which furnish a large -proportion of the food of the Indians, are the roots of a species of -thistle, the fern, the rush, the liquorice, and a small cylindric root, -resembling in flavour and consistency the sweet potatoe. - -1st. The thistle, called by the natives shanatanque, is a plant which -grows in a deep, rich, dry loam, with a considerable mixture of sand. -The stem is simple, ascending, cylindric, and hispid, and rising to the -height of three or four feet. The cauline life, which, as well as the -stem of the last season is dead, is simple, crenate, and oblong; rather -more obtuse at its apex than at its insertion, which is decurrent, -and its position declining; whilst the margin is armed with prickles, -and its disk is hairy. The flower too is dry and mutilated; but the -pericarp seems much like that of the common thistle. The root-leaves, -which still possess their verdure, and are about half grown, are of -a pale green colour. The root, however, is the only part used. It is -from nine to fifteen inches long, about the size of a man’s thumb, -perpendicular, fusiform, and with from two to four radicles. The rind -is of a brown colour, and somewhat rough. When first taken from the -earth, it is white, and nearly as crisp as a carrot, and in this state -is sometimes eaten without any preparation. But after it is prepared by -the same process used for the pasheco quamash, which is the most usual -and the best method, it becomes black, and much improved in flavour. -Its taste is exactly that of sugar, and it is indeed the sweetest -vegetable employed by the Indians. After being baked in the kiln, it is -either eaten simply or with train oil; sometimes pounded fine and mixed -with cold water, until it is reduced to the consistence of sagamity, or -Indian mush, which last method is the most agreeable to our palates. - -2. Three species of fern grow in this neighbourhood, but the root of -only one is eaten. It is very abundant in those parts of the open -lands and prairies which have a deep, loose, rich, black loam, without -any sand. There, it attains the height of four or five feet, and is a -beautiful plant with a fine green colour in summer. The stem, which -is smooth, cylindric, and slightly grooved on one side, rises erectly -about half its height, when it divides into two branches, or rather -long footstalks, which put forth in pairs from one side only, and near -the edges of the groove, declining backwards from the grooved side. -These footstalks are themselves grooved and cylindric, and as they -gradually taper toward the extremities, put forth others of a smaller -size, which are alternate, and have forty or fifty alternate, pinate, -horizontal, and sessile leaves: the leaves are multipartite for half -the length of their footstalk, when they assume the tongue-like form -altogether; being, moreover, revolute, with the upper disk smooth, -and the lower resembling cotton: the top is annual, and therefore -dead at present, but it produces no flower or fruit: the root itself -is perennial and grows horizontally; sometimes a little diverging, or -obliquely descending, and frequently dividing itself as it proceeds, -and shooting up a number of stems. It lies about four inches under -the surface of the earth, in a cylindrical form, with few or no -radicles, and varies from the size of a goose quill to that of a man’s -finger. The bark is black, thin, brittle, and rather rough, and easily -separates in flakes from the part which is eaten: the centre is divided -into two parts by a strong, flat, and white ligament, like a piece of -thin tape; on each side of which is a white substance, resembling, -after the root is roasted, both in appearance and flavour, the dough -of wheat. It has, however, a pungency which is disagreeable, but the -natives eat it voraciously, and it seems to be very nutritious. - -3. The rush is most commonly used by the Killamucks, and other Indians -on the seacoast, along the sands of which it grows in greatest -abundance. From each root a single stem rises erectly to the height of -three or four feet, somewhat thicker than a large quill, hollow and -jointed; about twenty or thirty long, lineal, stellate, or radiate and -horizontal leaves surround the stem at each joint, about half an inch -above which, its stem is sheathed like the sand rush. When green, it -resembles that plant also in appearance, as well as in having a rough -stem. It is not branching; nor does it bear, as far as we can discover, -either flower or seed. At the bottom of this stem, which is annual, is -a small, strong radicle, about an inch long, descending perpendicularly -to the root, while just above the junction of the radicle with the -stem, the latter is surrounded in the form of a wheel, with six or -nine small radicles, descending obliquely: the root attached to this -radicle is a perennial solid bulb, about an inch long, and of the -thickness of a man’s thumb, of an ovate form, depressed on one or two -of its sides, and covered with a thin, smooth, black rind: the pulp is -white, brittle, and easily masticated. It is commonly roasted, though -sometimes eaten raw; but in both states is rather an insipid root. - -4. The liquorice of this country does not differ from that common to -the United States. It here delights in a deep, loose, sandy soil, -and grows very large, and abundantly. It is prepared by roasting in -the embers, and pounding it slightly with a small stick, in order to -separate the strong ligament in the centre of the root, which is then -thrown away, and the rest chewed and swallowed. In this way it has an -agreeable flavour, not unlike that of the sweet potatoe. The root of -the cattail, or cooper’s flag, is eaten by the Indians. There is also, -a species of small, dry, tuberous root, two inches in length, and about -the thickness of the finger. They are eaten raw, are crisp, milky, and -of an agreeable flavour. - -5. Beside the small cylindric root mentioned above, is another of the -same form and appearance, which is usually boiled and eaten with train -oil. Its taste, however, is disagreeably bitter. But the most valuable -of all the Indian roots, is - -6. The wappatoo, or the bulb of the common sagittafolia, or common -arrowhead. It does not grow in this neighbourhood, but is in great -abundance in the marshy grounds of that beautiful valley, which -extends from near Quicksand river for seventy miles westward, and is a -principal article of trade between the inhabitants of that valley and -those of the seacoast. - -The shrub rises to the height of four or five feet; the stem simple -and much branched. The bark is of a reddish dark brown; the main stem -somewhat rough, while that of the bough is smooth; the leaf is about -one tenth of an inch long, obtuse at the apex, and acute and angular at -the insertion of the pedicle. The leaf is three fourths of an inch in -length, and three eighths in width, smooth, and of a paler green than -evergreens generally are. The fruit is a small deep purple berry, and -of a pleasant flavour; the natives eat the berry when ripe, but seldom -collect such quantities as to dry for winter use. - -The native fruits and berries in use among the Indians, are what they -call the shallun; the solme; the cranberry; a berry like the black haw; -the scarlet berry, of the plant called sacacommis; a purple berry, like -the huckleberry. - -1. The shallun is an evergreen plant, abounding in this neighbourhood, -and its leaves are the favourite food of the elk. It is a thick growth, -cylindrically rising to the height of three, and sometimes five feet, -and varying from the size of a goose quill, to that of a man’s thumb. -The stem is simple, branching, reclining, and partially fluxuose, -with a bark which, on the elder part, is of a reddish brown colour, -while the younger branches are red where exposed to the sun, and green -elsewhere. The leaf is three fourths of an inch in length, and two and -a half in breadth; of an oval form; the upper disk of a glossy deep -green, the under of a pale green; the fruit is a deep purple berry, -about the size of a common black cherry, oval, and rather bluntly -pointed; the pericarp is divided into five acute angular points, and -envelops a soft pulp, containing a great number of small brown seeds. - -2. The solme is a small, pale, red berry, the production of a plant, -resembling in size and shape that which produces the fruit, called -in the United States, Solomon’s seal-berry. The berry is attached to -the stem in the same manner. It is of a globular form; containing a -soft pulp, which envelops four seeds about the size of the seed of the -common small grape. It grows amongst the woodland moss, and is, to all -appearance, an annual plant. - -3. The cranberry is of the low and viny kind, and grows in the marshes -or bogs of this neighbourhood; it is precisely the same as the -cranberry of the United States. - -4. The fruit, which, though rather larger, resembles in shape the -black haw, is a light brown berry, the fruit of a tree about the size, -shape, and appearance in every respect, of that of the United States, -called the wild crab-apple. The leaf is also precisely the same, as -also the bark in texture and colour. The berries grow in clumps at the -end of the small branches; each berry supported by a separate stem, -and as many as from three to eighteen or twenty in a clump: the berry -is ovate, with one of its extremities attached to a peduncle, where -it is to a small degree concave, the wood of which is excessively -hard. The natives make their wedges of this wood, in splitting their -boards, their firewood, and in hollowing out their canoes; the wedge -when driven into solid dry pine, receives not the slightest injury. -Our party made use of it likewise for wedges and axe-handles. The -fruit is exceedingly acid, and resembles the flavour of the wild crab. -The pericarp of the berry contains a soft pulpy substance, divided -into four cells, each containing a single seed; the outer coat of the -pericarp, is a thin smooth though firm and tough pellicle. - -The plant called sacacommis by the Canadian traders, derives its name -from this circumstance: that the clerks of the trading companies are -generally very fond of smoking its leaves, which they carry about -with them in a small bag. It grows generally in an open piny woodland -country, or on its borders. We found this berry in the prairies -bordering on the Rocky mountains, or in the more open woodlands. It is -indiscriminately the growth of a very rich or a very poor soil, and is -found in the same abundance in both. The natives on the western side -of the Rocky mountains are very fond of this berry, although to us it -was a very tasteless and insipid fruit: the shrub is an evergreen, and -retains its verdure in the same perfection the whole season round. -However inclement the climate, the root puts forth a great number of -stems which separate near the surface of the ground, each stem from -the size of a small quill to that of a man’s finger: these are much -branched, the branches forming an acute angle with the stem, and all -more properly procumbent than creeping: although it sometimes puts -forth radicles from the stems and branches, which strike obliquely -into the ground: these radicles are by no means general or equable -in their distances from each other, nor do they appear calculated to -furnish nutriment to the plant: the bark is formed of several layers -of a smooth, thin, brittle and reddish substance easily separated from -the stem: the leaves with respect to their position are scattered, yet -closely arranged, and particularly near the extremities of the twigs: -the leaf is about three fourths of an inch in length; oval, pointed -and obtuse; of a deep green, slightly grooved; and the footstalk is -of proportionable length: the berry is attached in an irregular -manner to the small boughs among the leaves, and always supported by -separate, small and short peduncles: the insertion produces a slight -concavity in the berry, while its opposite side is slightly convex. The -outer coat of the pericarp is a thin, firm, tough pellicle: the inner -coat consists of a dry, mealy powder, of a yellowish white colour, -enveloping from four to six large, light, brown seeds: the colour of -the fruit is a fine scarlet: the natives eat these berries without -any preparation: the fruit ripens in September, and remains on the -bushes all winter unaffected by the frost: they are sometimes gathered -and hung in the lodges in bags, where they are dried without further -trouble. - -6. The deep purple berry, like the huckleberry, terminates bluntly, -and has a cap or cover at the end: the berries are attached separately -to the sides of the boughs by a short stem, hanging underneath and -they often grow very near each other, on the same bough: the berry -separates very easily from the stem; the leaves adhere closely: the -shrub rises to the height of six or eight feet, and sometimes grows -on high lands, but more frequently on low marshy grounds: the shrub -is an evergreen, and about ten inches in circumference, divides into -many irregular branches, and seldom more than one stem springs from one -root, although they associate very thickly: the bark is somewhat rough -and of a reddish brown colour: the wood is very hard: the leaves are -alternate and attached by a short footstalk to the horizontal sides -of the boughs: the form is a long oval, rather more acute towards the -apex than at the point of insertion: its margin slightly serrate, its -sides collapsing, thick, firm, smooth and glossy: the under surface is -of a pale or whitish green, and the upper of a fine deep green. This -beautiful shrub retains its verdure throughout the year, and is more -peculiarly beautiful in winter. The natives sometimes eat the berries -without preparation: sometimes they dry them in the sun, and at others -in their sweating kilns: they very frequently pound them, and bake -them in large loaves, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds: the bread -keeps very well for one season, and retains its juices better by this -mode of preparation than any other: this bread when broken is stirred -in cold water, until it acquires the consistency of soup, and then -eaten. - -The trees of a larger growth are very abundant; the whole neighbourhood -of the coast is supplied with great quantities of excellent timber. -The predominating growth is the fir, of which we have seen several -species. There is one singular circumstance attending all the pine of -this country, which is, that when consumed it yields not the slightest -particle of ashes. The first species grows to an immense size, and is -very commonly twenty-seven feet in circumference six feet above the -earth’s surface: they rise to the height of two hundred and thirty -feet, and one hundred and twenty of that height without a limb. We have -often found them thirty-six feet in circumference. One of our party -measured one, and found it to be forty-two feet in circumference, at a -point beyond the reach of an ordinary man. This trunk for the distance -of two hundred feet was destitute of limbs: this tree was perfectly -sound, and at a moderate calculation, its size may be estimated at -three hundred feet. The timber is throughout, and rives better than any -other species; the bark scales off in flakes irregularly round, and of -a reddish brown colour, particularly the younger growth: the trunk is -simple, branching, and not very proliferous. The leaf is acerose, one -tenth of an inch in width, and three fourths in length, firm, stiff, -and accuminate. It is triangular, a little declining, thickly scattered -on all sides of the bough, and springs from small triangular pedestals -of soft, spongy, elastic bark at the junction of the boughs. The bud -scales continue to encircle their respective twigs for several years. -Captain Lewis has counted as many as the growth of four years beyond -their scales; it yields but little rosin, and we have never been able -to discover the cone, although we have killed several. - -The second is a much more common species, and constitutes at least -one half of the timber in this neighbourhood. It seems to resemble -the spruce, rising from one hundred and sixty to one hundred and -eighty feet, and is from four to six in diameter, straight, round, and -regularly tapering. The bark is thin, of a dark colour, much divided in -small longitudinal interstices: the bark of the boughs and young trees -is somewhat smooth, but not equal to the balsam fir: the wood is white, -very soft, but difficult to rive: the trunk is a simple, branching, and -diffuse stem, not so proliferous as the pines and firs usually are. It -puts forth buds from the sides of the small boughs, as well as from -their extremities: the stem terminates like the cedar, in a slender -pointed top: the leaves are petiolate, the footstalks short, acerose, -rather more than half a line in width, and very unequal in length; the -greatest length seldom exceeds one inch, while other leaves intermixed -on every part of the bough, do not exceed a quarter of an inch. The -leaf has a small longitudinal channel on the upper disk, which is of a -deep and glossy green, while the under disk is of a whitish green only: -it yields but little rosin. What is remarkable, the cane is not longer -than the end of a man’s thumb, it is soft, flexible, of an ovate form, -and produced at the ends of the small twigs. - -The third species resembles in all points, the Canadian balsam fir. It -grows from two and a half to four feet in diameter, and rises to the -height of eighty or an hundred feet. The stem is simple, branching, and -proliferous: its leaves are sessile; acerose, one eighth of an inch in -length, and one sixteenth in width, thickly scattered on the twigs, -and adhere to the three under sides only; gibbous, a little declining, -obtusely pointed, soft, and flexible. The upper disk is longitudinally -marked with a slight channel, of a deep glossy-green; the under -of a pale green and not glossy. This tree affords in considerable -quantities, a fine deep aromatic balsam, resembling the balsam of -Canada in taste and appearance. The small pistils filled, rise like a -blister on the trunk and the branches. The bark that envelops these -pistils, is soft and easily punctured: the general appearance of the -bark is dark and smooth; but not so remarkable for that quality as the -white pine of our country. The wood is white and soft. - -The fourth species in size resembles the second. The stem is simple, -branching, ascending, and proliferous; the bark is of a reddish dark -brown, and thicker than that of the third species, divided by small -longitudinal interstices, not so much magnified as in the second -species. The relative position of the leaves resemble those of the -balsam fir, excepting that they are only two-thirds the width, and -little more than half the length, and that the upper disk is not so -green and glossy. The wood yields no balsam, and but little rosin. The -wood is white and tough although rather porous. - -The fifth species in size resembles the second, and has a trunk simple, -branching, and proliferous. The bark is of a thin dark brown, divided -longitudinally by interstices, and scaling off in thin rolling flakes. -It yields but little balsam: two-thirds of the diameter of the trunk in -the centre, presents a reddish white; the remainder is white, porous, -and tough; the twigs are much longer and more slender than in either of -the other species; the leaves are acerose, one-twentieth of an inch in -width, and one inch in length; sextile, inserted on all sides of the -bough, straight, and obliquely pointing towards the extremities. The -upper disk has a small longitudinal channel, and is of a deep green, -and not so glossy as the balsam fir. The under disk is of a pale green. - -We have seen a species of this fir on low marshy grounds, resembling -in all points the foregoing, except that it branches more diffusively. -This tree is generally thirty feet in height, and two in diameter. The -diffusion of its branches may result from its open situation, as it -seldom grows in the neighbourhood of another tree. The cone is two and -a half inches in length, and three and three-quarters in its greatest -circumference. It tapers regularly to a point, and is formed of the -imbricated scales, of a bluntly rounded form. A thin leaf is inserted -in the pith of the cone, which overlays the centre of, and extends half -an inch beyond the point of each scale. - -The sixth species does not differ from what is usually denominated -the white pine in Virginia. The unusual length of the cone seems to -constitute the only difference. It is sometimes sixteen or eighteen -inches in length, and is about four in circumference. It grows on the -north side of the Columbia, near the ocean. - -The seventh, and last species grows in low grounds, and in places -frequently overflown by the tide, seldom rising higher than thirty-five -feet, and not more than from two and a half to four in diameter: the -stem is simple, branching and proliferous: the bark resembles that of -the first species, but more rugged: the leaves are acerose, two-tenths -of an inch in width, three-fourths in length, firm, stiff, and a -little acuminated: they end in short pointed tendrils, gibbous, and -thickly scattered on all sides of the branch, though they adhere to -the three under sides only: those inserted on the under side incline -sidewise, with upward points, presenting the leaf in the shape of a -sithe: the others are pointing upwards, sextile and like those of the -first species, grow from the small triangular pedestals, of a bark, -spongy, soft and elastic. The under disk is of a deep glossy green, -the other of a pale whitish green: the boughs retain the leaves of a -six years growth: the bud scales resemble those of the first species: -the cone is of an ovate figure, three and a half inches in length, -and three in circumference, thickest in the middle, and tapering and -terminating in two obtuse points: it is composed of small, flexible -scales, imbricated, and of a reddish brown colour. Each of these scales -covers two small seeds, and is itself covered in the centre by a small, -thin, inferior scale, acutely pointed: these scales proceed from the -sides of the bough, as well as from its extremities. It was no where -seen above the Wappatoo. The stem of the black alder arrives to a great -size. It is simple, branching, and diffuse: the bark is smooth, of -a light colour, with white spreading spots, resembling those of the -beech: the leaf, fructification, &c. resemble precisely those of the -common alder of our country; the shrubs grow separately from different -roots, and not in clusters, like those of the United States. The -black alder does not cast its leaf until the first of December. It is -sometimes found growing to the height of sixty or seventy feet, and is -from two to four in diameter. - -3. There is a tree common to the Columbia river, below the entrance of -Cataract river, when devested of its foliage, much resembling the ash. -The trunk is simple, branching, and diffuse: the leaf is petiolate, -plain, divided by four deep lines, and resembling those of the palm, -and considerably lobate: the lobes terminate in from three to five -angular points, and their margins are indented with irregular and -somewhat circular incissures: the petiolate is cylindrical, smooth, -and seven inches long; the leaf itself eight inches in length, and -twelve in breadth: this tree is frequently three feet in diameter, and -rises from forty to fifty feet: the fruit is a winged seed, somewhat -resembling that of the maple. - -In the same part of the country there is also another growth, -resembling the white maple, though much smaller, and is seldom to be -seen of more than six or seven inches in diameter. These trees grow in -clusters, from fifteen to twenty feet in height, from the same bed of -roots, spreading, and leaning outwards: the twigs are long and slender, -the stem simple and branching, the bark, in colour, resembling the -white maple, the leaf is petiolate, plain, scattered, nearly circular, -with acute, angular incissures round the margin, of an inch in length, -and from six to eight in number: the acute angular points so formed, -are crenate, three inches in length and four in width: the petiole is -cylindric, smooth, and an inch and a quarter in length, and the fruit -is not known. - -The undergrowth consists of honeysuckles, alder, seven bark or nine -bark, huckleberry, a shrub like the quillwood, a plant like the -mountain-holley, a green briar, the fern. - -1. The honeysuckle common to the United States we found in this -neighbourhood. We first discovered the honeysuckle on the waters of -the Kooskooskee, near the Chopunnish nation, and again below the grand -rapids. - -2. The alder which is also common to our country, was found in great -abundance in the woodlands, on this side of the Rocky mountains. It -differs in the colour of its berry: this being of a pale sky blue, -while that of the United States is of a deep purple. - -3. The seven bark, or, as it is usually denominated, the nine bark of -the United States, is also common to this country. - -4. The huckleberry. There is a species of huckleberry, common to -the highlands, from the commencement of the Columbian valley to -the seacoast, rising to the height of six or eight feet, branching -and diffuse: the trunk is cylindrical, of a dark brown colour; the -collateral branches are green, smooth, and square, and put forth a -number of alternate branches of the same colour, and from the two -horizontal sides only. The fruit is a small deep purple berry, held in -much esteem by the natives: the leaf is of a pale green, and small, -three-fourths of an inch in length, and three-eighths in width, oval, -terminating more acutely at the apex than at the insertion of the -footstalk: the base is nearly entire, and but slightly serrate; the -footstalks are short: their relative position is alternate, two-ranked, -and proceeding from the horizontal sides of the boughs only. - -5. There are two species of shrubs, first seen at the grand rapids of -the Columbia, and which have since been seen elsewhere: they grow in -rich dry grounds, usually in the neighbourhood of some water course: -the roots are creeping and cylindrical: the stem of the first species -is from a foot to eighteen inches in height, and about as large as an -ordinary goose quill: it is simple, unbranched, and erect: its leaves -are cauline, compound and spreading: the leaflets are jointed, and -oppositely pinnate, three pair, and terminating in one sextile, widest -at the base, and tapering to an acuminate point: it is an inch and -a quarter in its greatest width, and three inches and a quarter in -length: each point of the margin is armed with a subulate thorn, and -from thirteen to seventeen in number: are veined, glossy, carinated -and wrinkled: their points obliquely tending towards the extremity of -the common footstalk: the stem of the second species is procumbent, -about the size of that of the first species, jointed and unbranched: -its leaves are cauline, compound, and oppositely pinnate: the rib is -from fourteen to sixteen inches in length, cylindric and smooth: the -leaflets are two inches and a half long, and one inch wide, and of -the greatest width half an inch from the base: this they regularly -surround, and from the same point tapering to an acute apex: this -is usually terminated with a small subulate thorn: they are jointed -and oppositely pinnate, consisting of six pair, and terminating in -one: sessile, serrate, and ending in a small subulate spire, from -twenty-five to twenty-seven in number: they are smooth, plain, and of -a deep green, and all obliquely tending towards the extremity of the -footstalk: they retain their green all winter. The large leafed thorn, -has a leaf about two inches and a half long, which is petiolate, and -conjugate: the leaflets are petiolate, acutely pointed, having their -margins cut with unequal and irregular incissures: the shrub, which -we had once mistaken for the large leafed thorn, resembled the stem -of that shrub, excepting the thorn: it bears a large three headed -leaf: the briar is of the class polyandria, and order poligymnia: the -flowers are single: the peduncle long and cylindrical: the calyx is -a perianth, of one leaf, five cleft, acutely pointed: the perianth -is proper, erect, inferior in both petals, and germen; the corolla -consists of five acute, pale scarlet petals, inserted in the receptacle -with a short and narrow cleft: the corolla is smooth, moderately long, -situated at the base of the germen, permanent, and in shape resembling -a cup: the stamens and filaments are subulate, inserted into the -receptacle, unequal and bent inwards, concealing the pystilium: the -anther is two lobed and influted, situated on the top of the filament -of the pystilium: the germ is conical, imbricated, superior, sessile -and short: the styles are short, compared with the stamen, capillary -smooth and obtuse: they are distributed over the surface of the germ, -and deciduous without any perceptible stamen. - -7. The green briar grows most abundantly in rich dry lands, in the -vicinity of a water course, and is found in small quantities in piny -lands at a distance from the water. In the former situation the stem -is frequently of the size of a man’s finger, and rises perpendicularly -four or five feet: it then descends in an arch, becomes procumbent, -or rests on some neighbouring plants: it is simple, unbranched, and -cylindric: in the latter situation it grows much smaller, and usually -procumbent: the stem is armed with sharped and forked briars: the leaf -is petiolate, ternate and resembles in shape and appearance that of -the purple raspberry, so common to the Atlantic states: the fruit is -a berry resembling the blackberry in all points, and is eaten when -ripe by the natives, which they hold in much esteem, although it is -not dried for winter consumption. This shrub was first discovered -at the entrance of Quicksand river: it grows so abundantly in the -fertile valley of Colombia, and the islands, that the country is almost -impenetrable: it retains its verdure late in summer. - -8. Besides the fern already described, as furnishing a nutritious root, -there are two other plants of the same species, which may be divided -into the large and the small: the large fern rises three or four feet: -the stem is a common footstalk, proceeding immediately from the -radix, somewhat flat, about the size of a man’s arm, and covered with -innumerable black coarse capillary radicles, issuing from every part of -its surface: one of these roots will send forth from twenty to forty -of these common footstalks, bending outwards from the common centre: -the ribs are cylindric and marked longitudinally their whole length, -with a groove on the upper side: on either side of this groove, and -a little below its edge the leaflets are inserted: these are shortly -petiolate for about two thirds the length of the middle rib, commencing -from the bottom, and from thence to the extremity sessile: the rib is -terminated by a single undivided lanceolate leaflet: these are from two -to four inches in length, and have a small acute angular projection, -and obliquely cut at the base: the upper surface is smooth, and of a -deep green: the under surface of a pale green and covered with a brown -protuberance of a woolly appearance, particularly near the central -fibre: the leaflets are alternately pinnate, and in number, from one -hundred and ten to one hundred and forty: they are shortest at the two -extremities of the common footstalk, largest in the centre, gradually -lengthening, and diminishing as they succeed each other. The small -fern rises likewise with a common footstalk from the radix, from four -to eight in number: from four to eight inches long: the central rib is -marked with a slight longitudinal groove throughout its whole length: -the leaflets are oppositely pinnate, about one third of the length of -the common footstalk, from the bottom, and thence alternately pinnate: -the footstalk terminates in a simple undivided lanceolate leaflet: -these are oblong, obtuse, convex, absolutely entire, and the upper disk -is marked with a slight longitudinal groove: near the upper extremity -these leaflets are decursively pinnate, as are all those of the large -fern. Both of these species preserve green during the winter. - -The quadrupeds of this country from the Rocky mountains to the Pacific -ocean, may be conveniently divided into the domestic and the wild -animals. The first embraces the horse and dog only. - -The horse is confined principally to the nations inhabiting the great -plains of Columbia, extending from latitude forty to fifty north, and -occupying the tract of territory lying between the Rocky mountains, -and a range of mountains which pass the Columbia river about the -great falls from longitude sixteen to one hundred and twenty-one -west. The Shoshonees, the Choppunish, Sokulks, Escheloots, Eneshures, -and Chilluckittequaws, all enjoy the benefit of that docile, noble, -and generous animal; and all of them, except the three last, possess -immense numbers. - -They appear to be of an excellent race, lofty, elegantly formed, active -and durable: many of them appear like fine English coursers; some of -them are pied with large spots of white irregularly scattered, and -intermixed with a dark brown bay: the greater part, however, are of -an uniform colour, marked with stars and white feet, and resemble in -fleetness and bottom, as well as in form and colour, the best blooded -horses of Virginia. The natives suffer them to run at large in the -plains, the grass of which affords them their only winter subsistence; -their masters taking no trouble to lay in a winter’s store for them: -notwithstanding, they will, unless much exercised, fatten on the dry -grass afforded by the plains during the winter. The plains are rarely -if ever moistened by rain, and the grass is consequently short and -thin. The natives, excepting those of the Rocky mountains, appear to -take no pains in selecting their male horses for breed; and indeed, -those of that class appear much the most indifferent. Whether the horse -was originally a native of this country or not, the soil and climate -appear to be perfectly well adapted to the nature of this animal. -Horses are said to be found wild in many parts of this extensive -country. The several tribes of Shoshonees who reside towards Mexico, -on the waters of the Mutlomah river, and particularly one of them, -called Shaboboah, have also a great number of mules, which the Indians -prize more highly than horses. An elegant horse may be purchased of the -natives for a few beads or other paltry trinkets, which in the United -States, would not cost more than one or two dollars. The abundance -and cheapness of horses, will be extremely advantageous to those who -may hereafter attempt the fur trade to the East Indies, by the way of -Columbia river, and the Pacific ocean. - -2. The dog is unusually small, about the size of an ordinary cur: he -is usually particoloured, amongst which, the black, white, brown, and -brindle are the colours most predominant: the head is long, the nose -pointed, the eyes small, the ears erect and pointed, like those of the -wolf: the hair is short and smooth, excepting on the tail, where it is -long and straight, like that of the ordinary cur-dog. The natives never -eat the flesh of this animal, and he appears to be in no other way -serviceable to them than in hunting the elk. - -The second division comprehends the brown, white, or grisly bear, the -black bear; the deer, common red deer, the black-tailed fallow deer, -the mule deer, the elk, the wolves, the large brown wolf, the small -wolf of the plains, the large wolf of the plains, the tyger-cat, the -foxes, the common red fox, the silver fox, the fisher or black fox, the -large red fox of the plains, the kit-fox, or small fox of the plains, -the antelope, the sheep, beaver, common otter, sea-otter, mink, seal, -racoon, squirrels, large gray squirrel, small gray squirrel, small -brown squirrel, ground squirrel, braro, rat, mouse, mole, panther, -hare, rabbit, polecat or skunk. - -First, the brown, white or grisly bear, which seem to be of the same -family, with an accidental variation of colour only, inhabit the -timbered parts of the Rocky mountains. These are rarely found on the -westerly side, and are more commonly below the Rocky mountains, in the -plains, or on their borders, amidst copses of brush and underwood, -and near the water courses. We are unable to learn that they inhabit -at all in the woody country, bordering on the coasts, as far in the -interior as the range of mountains which pass the Columbia, between the -great falls and the rapids of that river. - -2. The black bear differs in no respect from those common to the United -States. They chiefly inhabit timbered parts of the Rocky mountains, -and likewise the borders of the great plains of the Columbia. They are -sometimes found in the tract which lies between those plains and the -Pacific ocean. One of our hunters saw one of this species, which was -the only one we have discovered since our residence in fort Clatsop. - -3. The deer are of three kinds: the common red deer, the black-tailed -fallow deer, and the mule deer. - -1. The common red deer inhabit the rocky mountains, in the -neighbourhood of the Chopunnish, and about the Columbia, and down the -river as low as where the tide water commences. They do not appear to -differ essentially from those of the United States, being the same in -shape, size, and appearance. The tail is however different, which is of -an unusual length, far exceeding that of the common deer. Captain Lewis -measured one, and found it to be seventeen inches long. - -2. The black-tailed fallow deer are peculiar to this coast, and are -a distinct species, partaking equally of the qualities of the mule -and the common deer. Their ears are longer, and their winter coat -darker than those of the common deer. The receptacle of the eye more -conspicuous, their legs shorter, their bodies thicker and larger. The -tail is of the same length with that of the common deer, the hair on -the under side white, and on its sides and top of a deep jetty black: -the hams resemble in form and colour those of the mule, which it -likewise resembles in its gait. The black-tailed deer never runs at -full speed, but bounds with every foot from the ground, at the same -time, like the mule deer. He sometimes inhabits the woodlands, but -more often the prairies and open grounds. It may be generally said, -that he is of a size larger than the common deer, and less than the -mule deer. The flesh is seldom fat, and in flavour is far inferior to -any other of the species. - -3. The mule deer inhabit both the seacoast and the plains of the -Missouri, and likewise the borders of the Kooskooskee river, in the -neighbourhood of the Rocky mountains. It is not known whether they -exist in the interior of the great plains of the Columbia, or on the -lower borders, near the mountains which pass the river above the great -falls. The properties of this animal have already been noticed. - -4. The elk is of the same species with that which inhabits much the -greatest part of North America. They are common to every part of this -country, as well the timbered lands as the plains, but are much more -abundant in the former than in the latter. In the month of March we -discovered several which had not cast their horns, and others where -the new horns had grown to the length of six inches. The latter were -in much the best order, and from hence we draw the inference that the -leanest elk retain their horns the longest. - -5. The wolf is either the large brown wolf, or the wolf of the plains, -of which last there are two kinds, the large and the small. The large -brown wolf inhabits the woody countries on the borders of the Pacific, -and the mountains which pass the Columbia river, between the great -falls and rapids, and resembles in all points those of the United -States. - -The large and small wolves of the plains, principally inhabit the -open country and the woodlands on their borders. They resemble, both -in appearance and habit, those of the Missouri plains. They are by no -means abundant in the plains of the Columbia, as they meet there but -very little game for their subsistence. - -6. The tiger-cat inhabits the borders of the plains, and the woody -country in the neighbourhood of the Pacific. This animal is of a size -larger than the wild cat of our country, and much the same in form, -agility, and ferocity. The colour of the back, neck, and sides is -of a reddish brown, irregularly variegated with small spots of dark -brown: the tail is about two inches long, and nearly white, except the -extremity, which is black. It terminates abruptly, as if it had been -amputated: the belly is white, and beautifully variegated with small -black spots: the legs are of the same colour with the sides, and the -back is marked transversely with black stripes: the ears are black on -the outer side, covered with fine, short hair, except at the upper -point, which is furnished with a pencil of hair, fine, straight, and -black, three-fourths of an inch in length. The hair of this animal is -long and fine, far exceeding that of the wild cat of the United States, -but inferior in that quality to that of the bear of the northwest. The -skin of this animal is in great demand amongst the natives, for of this -they form their robes, and it requires four to make up the complement. - -7. Of the foxes we have seen several species. - -The large red fox of the plains, and the kit-fox or small red fox of -the plains, are the same which are found on the banks of the Missouri. -They are found almost exclusively in the open plains, or on the tops -of brush within the level country: the common red fox of the United -States, inhabits the country bordering the coast, nor does this animal -appear to have undergone any alteration. - -The black fox, or as it is termed in the neighbourhood of Detroit, -the fisher, is found in the woody country bordering on the coast. How -it should have acquired this appellation it is difficult to imagine, -as it certainly does not prey upon fish. These animals are extremely -strong and active, and admirably expert in climbing: this they perform -with the greatest ease, and bound from tree to tree in pursuit of the -squirrel or racoon, their most usual food. Their colour is of a jetty -black, excepting a small white spot upon the breast: the body is long, -the legs short, and resembling those of the ordinary turn spit dog. The -tail is remarkably long, and not differing in other particulars from -that of the ordinary fox. - -The silver fox is an animal very rare, even in the country he inhabits. -We have seen nothing but the skins of this animal, and those in the -possession of the natives of the woody country below the Columbia -falls, which makes us conjecture it to be an inhabitant of that country -exclusively. From the skin it appeared to be of the size of the large -red fox of the plains, resembling that animal in form, and particularly -in the dimensions of the tail. The legs captain Lewis conjectured to -be somewhat larger. It has a long deep lead coloured fur, for foil, -intermixed with long hairs, either of a black or white colour at the -lower part, and invariably white at the top, forming a most beautiful -silver gray. Captain Lewis thought this the most beautiful of the whole -species, excepting one which he discovered on the Missouri near the -natural walls. - -8. The antelope inhabits the great plains of the Columbia, and -resembles those found on the banks of the Missouri, and indeed in every -part of the untimbered country, but they are by no means so abundant -on this as on the other side of the Rocky mountains. The natives in -this place make themselves robes of their skins, and preserve the hair -entire. In the summer and autumn, when the salmon begin to decline, the -majority of the natives leave the sides of the river, and reside in the -open plains, to hunt the antelope, which they persue on horseback, and -shoot with their arrows. - -9. The sheep is found in many places, but mostly in the timbered parts -of the Rocky mountains. They live in greater numbers on the chain of -mountains forming the commencement of the woody country on the coast, -and passing the Columbia between the falls and rapids. We have only -seen the skins of these animals, which the natives dress with the wool, -and the blankets which they manufacture from the wool. The animal from -this evidence appears to be of the size of our common sheep, of a white -colour: the wool is fine on many parts of the body, but in length not -equal to that of our domestic sheep. On the back, and particularly on -the top of the head, this is intermixed with a considerable proportion -of long straight hairs. From the Indian account these animals have -erect pointed horns: one of our engagees informed us that he had seen -them in the black hills, and that the horns were lunated like those of -our domestic sheep. We have nevertheless too many proofs to admit a -doubt of their existing, and in considerable numbers on the mountains -near the coast. - -10. The beaver of this country is large and fat: the flesh is very -palatable, and at our table was a real luxury. On the 7th of January, -1806, our hunter found a beaver in his traps, of which he made a bait -for taking others: this bait will entice the beaver to the trap, as -far as he can smell it, and this may be fairly stated to be at the -distance of a mile, as their sense of smelling is very acute. To -prepare beaver bate, the castor or bark stone is first gently pressed -from the bladder-like bag which contains it, into a phial of four -ounces, with a large mouth: five or six of these stones are thus taken, -to which must be added a nutmeg, a dozen or fifteen cloves, and thirty -grains of cinnamon, finely pulverized and stirred together, and as much -ardent spirits added to the composition as will reduce the whole to -the consistency of mustard. All this must be carefully corked, as it -soon loses its efficacy if exposed to open air. The scent becomes much -stronger in four or five days after preparation, and, provided proper -precaution is exercised, will preserve its efficacy for months. Any -strong aromatic spices will answer; their sole virtue being to give -variety and pungency to the scent of the bark stone. The male beaver -has six stones, two of which contain a substance much like finely -pulverized bark, of a pale yellow colour, and in smell resembling -tanners oose; these are called bark stones or castors. Two others, -which like the bark stone resemble small bladders, contain pure strong -oil, of a strong rank smell, and are called the oil stone, and the -other two are the testicles. The bark stones are two inches in length: -the others are somewhat smaller, of an oval form, and lie in a bunch -together, between the skin and the root of the tail, with which they -are closely connected, and seem to communicate. The female brings forth -once in a year only, and has sometimes two and sometimes four at a -birth, which usually happens in the latter end of May and the beginning -of June: at this time she is said to drive the male from the lodge, -who would otherwise destroy the young. They propagate like the fowl, -by the gut, and the male has no other sexual distinction that we could -discover. - -11. The common otter has already been described, and this species does -not differ from those inhabiting the other parts of America. - -12. The sea-otter resides only on the seacoast, or in the neighbourhood -of the salt water. When fully grown, he arrives to the size of a large -mastiff dog. The ears and eyes, particularly the former, which are not -an inch in length, are thick, pointed, fleshy, and covered with short -hair: the tail is ten inches long, thick at the point of insertion and -partially covered with a deep fur on the upper side: the legs are very -short, and the feet, which have five toes each, are broad, large, and -webbed: the legs are covered with fur, and the feet with short hair: -the body of this animal is long, and of the same thickness throughout: -from the extremity of the tail to the nose they measure five feet. The -colour is a uniform dark brown, and, when in good order and season, -perfectly black. This animal is unrivalled for the beauty, richness, -and softness of his fur; the inner part of the fur, when opened, is -lighter than the surface in its natural position: there are some black -and shining hairs intermixed with the fur, which are rather longer, and -add much to its beauty: the fur about the ears, nose and eyes, in some -of this species, presents a lighter colour, sometimes a brown: their -young are often seen of a cream-coloured white about the nose, eyes and -forehead, and which are always much lighter than their other parts: -their fur is however much inferior to that of the full grown otter. - -13. The mink inhabits the woody country bordering on the coast, and -does not differ in any point from those of the United States. - -14. The seal are found on this coast in great numbers, and as far up -the Columbia river as the Great Falls, and none have been discovered -beyond them. The skins of such as captain Lewis examined, were covered -with a short, coarse, stiff, and glossy hair, of a reddish brown -colour. This animal, when in the water, appeared of a black colour, and -sometimes spotted with white. We believe that there are several species -of this animal to be found in this country, but we could not procure a -sufficient number to make the examination: the skins were precisely of -the same kind as our countrymen employ in the manufacture of trunks. - -15. The raccoon inhabits woody countries bordering on the coast, in -considerable numbers, and are caught by the natives with snares or -pitfalls: they hold their skins in but little or no estimation, and -very seldom make them into robes. - -16. The squirrels we have seen, are, - -The large gray squirrel. This animal appears to be an inhabitant of -a narrow tract of country, well covered with whiteoak timber, and -situated on the upper side of the mountains just below Columbia falls. -This animal we have only found in those tracts which have been covered -with timber; for in countries where pine is most abundant, he does not -appear: he is much superior in size to the common gray squirrel, and -resembles in form, colour and size, the fox squirrel of the Atlantic -states: the tail exceeds the whole length of the body and the head; -the eyes are dark, the whiskers long and black: the back sides of the -head and tail, and outward part of the legs, are all of a blue-coloured -gray: the breast, belly, and inner part of the body, are all of a pure -white: the hair is short, like that of the fox squirrel, though much -finer, and intermixed with a portion of fur. The natives hold the skin -of this animal in high estimation, which they use in forming their -robes. He subsists on the acorn and filberts, which last grows in great -abundance in the oak country. - -The small gray squirrel is common to every part of the Rocky mountains -where timber abounds. He differs from the dark brown squirrel in colour -only. The back sides, neck, head, tail and outer side of the legs, are -of a brownish lead-coloured gray: the tail is slightly touched with -a dark reddish colour, near the extremity of some of the hairs: the -throat, breast, belly, and inner parts of the legs, are of the colour -of a tanners’ ooze, and have a narrow strip of black, commencing behind -each shoulder, and entering longitudinally about three inches, between -the colours of the sides and belly. Their habits are precisely those of -the dark brown squirrel, and like them they are extremely nimble and -active. - -There is also a species of squirrel, evidently distinct, which we have -denominated the burrowing squirrel. He inhabits these plains, and -somewhat resembles those found on the Missouri: he measures one foot -and five inches in length, of which the tail comprises two and a half -inches only: the neck and legs are short; the ears are likewise short, -obtusely pointed, and lie close to the head, and the aperture larger -than will generally be found among burrowing animals. The eyes are of a -moderate size, the pupil black, and the iris of a dark sooty brown: the -whiskers are full, long, and black: the teeth, and, indeed, the whole -contour, resemble those of the squirrel: each foot has five toes; the -two inner ones of the fore feet are remarkably short, and are equipped -with blunt nails: the remaining toes on the front feet are long, black, -slightly curved, and sharply pointed: the hair of the tail is thickly -inserted on the sides only, which gives it a flat appearance, and a -long oval form: the tips of the hair forming the outer edges of the -tail are white, the other extremity of a fox red: the under part of -the tail resembles an iron gray; the upper is of a reddish brown: the -lower part of the jaws, the under part of the neck, legs and feet, from -the body and belly downwards, are of a light brick red: the nose and -eyes are of a darker shade, of the same colour: the upper part of the -head, neck and body, are of a curious brown gray, with a slight tinge -of brick red: the longer hairs of these parts are of a reddish white -colour, at their extremities, and falling together, give this animal a -speckled appearance. These animals form in large companies, like those -on the Missouri, occupying with their burrows sometimes two hundred -acres of land: the burrows are separate, and each possesses, perhaps, -ten or twelve of these inhabitants. There is a little mound in front of -the hole, formed of the earth thrown out of the burrow, and frequently -there are three or four distinct holes, forming one burrow, with -these entrances around the base of these little mounds. These mounds, -sometimes about two feet in height and four in diameter, are occupied -as watch-towers by the inhabitants of these little communities. The -squirrels, one or more, are irregularly distributed on the tract they -thus occupy, at the distance of ten, twenty, or sometimes from thirty -to forty yards. When any one approaches, they make a shrill whistling -sound, somewhat resembling tweet, tweet, tweet, the signal for their -party to take the alarm, and to retire into their intrenchments. They -feed on the roots of grass, &c. - -The small brown squirrel is a beautiful little animal, about the size -and form of the red squirrel of the eastern Atlantic states and western -lakes. The tail is as long as the body and neck, and formed like that -of the red squirrel: the eyes are black, the whiskers long and black -but not abundant: the back, sides, head, neck, and outer part of the -legs are of a reddish brown: the throat, breast, belly, and inner part -of the legs are of a pale red: the tail is a mixture of black and -fox-coloured red, in which the black predominates in the middle, and -the other on the edges and extremity: the hair of the body is about -half an inch long, and so fine and soft it has the appearance of fur: -the hair of the tail is coarser and double in length. This animal -subsists chiefly on the seeds of various species of pine and is always -found in the pine country. - -The ground squirrel is found in every part of this country, as well in -the prairies as in the woodlands, and is one of the few animals which -we have seen in every part of our journey, and differs in no respect -from those of the United States. - -There is still another species, denominated by captain Lewis, the -barking squirrel, found in the plains of the Missouri. This animal -commonly weighs three pounds: the colour is a uniform bright brick red -and gray, and the former predominates: the under side of the neck and -belly are lighter than the other parts of the body: the legs are short, -and the breast and shoulders wide: the head is stout and muscular, and -terminates more bluntly, wider, and flatter than that of the common -squirrel: the ears are short, and have the appearance of amputation: -the jaw is furnished with a pouch to contain his food, but not so large -as that of the common squirrel: the nose is armed with whiskers on -each side, and a few long hairs are inserted on each jaw, and directly -over the eyes: the eye is small and black: each foot has five toes, -and the two outer ones are much shorter than those in the centre. The -two inner toes of the fore-feet are long, sharp, and well adapted to -digging and scratching. From the extremity of the nose to the end -of the tail this animal measures one foot and five inches, of which -the tail occupies four inches. Notwithstanding the clumsiness of his -form, he is remarkably active, and he burrows in the ground with great -rapidity. These animals burrow and reside in their little subterraneous -villages like the burrowing squirrel. To these apartments, although six -or eight usually associate together, there is but one entrance. They -are of great depth, and captain Lewis once pursued one to the depth -of ten feet, and did not reach the end of the burrow. They occupy, in -this manner, several hundred acres of ground, and when at rest their -position is generally erect on their hinder feet and rump: they sit -with much confidence, and bark at the intruder as he approaches, with a -fretful and harmless intrepidity. The note resembles that of the little -toy-dog: the yelps are in quick and angry succession, attented by rapid -and convulsive motions, as if they were determined to sally forth in -defence of their freehold. They feed on the grass of their village, -the limits of which they never venture to exceed. As soon as the frost -commences, they shut themselves up in their caverns, and continue until -the spring opens. The flesh of this animal is not unpleasant to the -taste. - -17. Sewellel is a name given by the natives to a small animal found -in the timbered country on this coast. It is more abundant in the -neighbourhood of the great falls and rapids of the Columbia than on the -coast which we inhabit. - -The natives make great use of the skins of this animal in forming their -robes, which they dress with the fur on, and attach them together with -sinews of the elk or deer: the skin, when dressed, is from fourteen -to eighteen inches long, and from seven to nine in width: the tail is -always separated from the skin by the natives when making their robes. -This animal mounts a tree and burrows in the ground precisely like a -squirrel: the ears are short, thin, and pointed, and covered with a -fine short hair, of a uniform reddish brown: the bottom or the base of -the long hairs, which exceed the fur but little in length, as well as -the fur itself, are of a dark colour next to the skin for two thirds -of the length of this animal: the fur and hair are very fine, short, -thickly set, and silky: the ends of the fur and tip of the hair are of -a reddish brown, and that colour predominates in the usual appearance -of the animal. Captain Lewis offered considerable rewards to the -Indians, but was never able to procure one of these animals alive. - -18. The braro, so called from the French engagees, appears to be an -animal of the civet species, and much resembles the common badger. -These animals inhabit the open plains of the Columbia, sometimes those -of the Missouri, and are sometimes found in the woods: they burrow -in hard grounds with surprising ease and dexterity, and will cover -themselves in a very few moments: they have five long fixed nails on -each foot; those on the fore feet are much the longest, and one of -those on each hind foot is double, like that of the beaver: they weigh -from fourteen to eighteen pounds: the body is long in proportion to -its thickness: the fore legs are remarkably large, muscular, and are -formed like those of the turnspit dog, and, as well as the hind legs, -are short: these animals are broad across the shoulders and breast: -the neck is short, the mouth wide, and furnished with sharp, straight -teeth, both above and below, with four sharp, straight, pointed tusks, -two in the upper, and two in the lower jaw: the eyes are black and -small; whiskers are placed in four points on each side near the nose, -and on the jaws near the opening of the mouth: the ears are short, -wide, and oppressed, as if a part had been amputated: the tail is -four inches in length, the hair of which is longest at the point of -the junction with the body, and growing shorter until it ends in an -acute point: the hairs of the body are much shorter on the sides and -rump than those on any other part, which gives the body an apparent -flatness, particularly when the animal rests upon his belly: the hair -is upwards of three inches in length, especially on the rump, where it -extends so far towards the point of the tail, it conceals the shape of -that part, and gives to the whole of the hinder parts of the body the -appearance of a right angled triangle, of which the point of the tail -forms an acute angle: the small quantity of coarse fur intermixed with -the hair is of a reddish pale yellow. - -19. The rat which inhabits the Rocky mountains, like those on the -borders of the Missouri, in the neighbourhood of the mountains, have -the distinguishing traits of possessing a tail covered with hair -like the other parts of the body. These animals are probably of the -same species with those of the Atlantic states, which have not this -characteristic distinction: the ordinary house rat we found on the -banks of the Missouri, as far up as the woody country extends, and the -rat, such as has been described, captain Lewis found in the state of -Georgia, and also in Madison’s cave in Virginia. - -20. The mouse which inhabits this country are precisely the same with -those which inhabit the United States. - -21. The mole. This animal differs in no respect from the species so -common in the United States. - -22. The panther is found indifferently, either in the great plains of -the Columbia, the western side of the Rocky mountains, or on the coast -of the Pacific. He is the same animal so well known on the Atlantic -coast, and most commonly found on the frontiers, or unsettled parts of -our country. He is very seldom found, and when found, so wary, it is -difficult to reach him with a musket. - -23. The hare on this side of the Rocky mountains inhabits the great -plains of the Columbia. On the eastward of those mountains they inhabit -the plains of the Missouri. They weigh from seven to eleven pounds: the -eye is large and prominent, the pupil of a deep sea-green, occupying -one third of the diameter of the eye; the iris is of a bright yellowish -and silver colour; the ears are placed far back, and very near each -other, which the animal can, with surprising ease and quickness, -dilate, and throw forward, or contract, and hold upon his back at -pleasure: the head, neck, back, shoulders, thighs, and outer part of -the legs and thighs are of a lead colour: the sides, as they approach -the belly, become gradually more white: the belly, breast, and inner -part of the legs and thighs are white, with a light shade of lead -colour: the tail is round and bluntly pointed, covered with white, -soft, fine fur, not quite so long as on the other parts of the body: -the body is covered with a deep, fine, soft, close fur. The colours -here described are those which the animal assumes from the middle of -April to the middle of November; the rest of the year he is of a pure -white, except the black and reddish brown of the ears, which never -change. A few reddish brown spots are sometimes intermixed with the -white, at this season (February 26, 1806) on their heads and the upper -part of their necks and shoulders: the body of the animal is smaller -and longer in proportion to its height than the rabbit: when he runs -he conveys his tail straight behind, in the direction of his body: -he appears to run and bound with surprising agility and ease: he is -extremely fleet, and never burrows or takes shelter in the ground when -pursued. His teeth are like those of the rabbit, as is also his upper -lip, which is divided as high as the nose. His food is grass, herbs, -and in winter he feeds much on the bark of several aromatic herbs, -growing on the plains. Captain Lewis measured the leaps of this animal, -and found them commonly from eighteen to twenty-one feet: they are -generally found separate, and are never seen to associate in greater -numbers than two or three. - -24. The rabbit is the same with those of our own country, and are found -indifferently, either on the prairies or the woodlands, and are not -very abundant. - -25. The polecat is also found in every part of this country: they -are very abundant on some parts of the Columbia, particularly in the -neighbourhood of the Great falls and narrows of that river, where they -live in the cliffs along the river, and feed on the offal of the Indian -fishing shores. They are of the same species as those found in the -other parts of North America. - -The birds which we have seen between the Rocky mountains and the -Pacific may be divided into two classes, the terestrial and the -aquatic. In the former class are to be arranged, - -1. The grouse or prairie-hen. This is peculiarly the inhabitant of the -great plains of the Columbia, and does not differ from those of the -upper portion of the Missouri. The tail is pointed, the feathers in the -center, and much longer than those on the sides. This species differs -essentially in the formation of the plumage from those of the Illinois, -which have their tales composed of feathers of an equal length. In -the winter season this bird is booted to the first joint of the toes; -the toes are curiously bordered on their lower edges with narrow -hard scales, which are placed very close to each other, and extend -horizontally about one eighth of an inch on each side of the toes, -adding much to the broadness of the feet, a security which bounteous -nature has furnished them for passing over the snows with more ease, -and what is very remarkable, in the summer season these scales drop -from the feet. This bird has four toes on each foot, the colour is -a mixture of dark brown, reddish and yellowish brown, with white -confusedly mixed. In this assemblage of colours, the reddish brown -prevails most on the upper parts of the body, wings, and tail, and the -white underneath the belly, and the lower parts of the breast and tail. -These birds associate in large flocks in autumn and winter, and even -in summer are seen in companies of five or six. They feed on grass, -insects, leaves of various shrubs in the plains, and on the seeds of -several species of speth and wild rye, which grow in richer soils. In -winter their food consists of the buds of the willow and cottonwood, -and native berries. - -2. The cock of the plains is found on the plains of the Columbia -in great abundance, from the entrance of the southeast fork of the -Columbia to that of Clarke’s river. It is about two and three quarter -inches the size of our ordinary turkey: the beak is large, short, -covered and convex, the upper exceeding the lower chop: the nostrils -are large, and the back black; the colour is an uniform mixture of a -dark brown, resembling the dove, and a reddish and yellowish brown, -with some small black specks. In this mixture the dark brown prevails, -and has a slight cast of the dove-colour: the wider side of the large -feathers of the wings are of a dark brown only. The tail is composed -of nineteen feathers, and that inserted in the centre is the longest, -the remaining nine on each side gradually diminish. The tail when -folded comes to a very sharp point, and appears proportionally long, -when compared with the other parts of the body. In the act of flying, -the tail resembles that of the wild pigeon, although the motion of the -wings is much like that of the pheasant and grouse. This bird has four -toes on each foot, of which the hindmost is the shortest, and the leg -is covered with feathers about half the distance between the knee and -foot. When the wing is expanded there are wide openings between its -feathers, the plumage being too narrow to fill up the vacancy: the -wings are short in comparison with those of the grouse or pheasant. The -habits of this bird resemble those of the grouse, excepting that his -food is that of the leaf and buds of the pulpy-leafed thorn. Captain -Lewis did not remember to have seen this bird but in the neighbourhood -of that shrub, which they sometimes feed on, the prickly pear. The -gizzard is large, and much less compressed and muscular than in most -fowls, and perfectly resembles a maw. When this bird flies he utters a -cackling sound, not unlike that of the dunghill fowl. The flesh of the -cock of the plains is dark, and only tolerable in point of flavour, -and is not so palateable either as that of the pheasant or grouse. The -feathers about the head are pointed and stiff and short, fine and stiff -about the ears; at the base of the beak several hairs are to be seen. -This bird is invariably found in the plains. - -3. The pheasant, of which we distinguish the large black and white -pheasant, the small speckled pheasant, the small brown pheasant: - -1. The large black and white pheasant differs but little from those of -the United States; the brown is rather brighter, and has a more reddish -tint. This bird has eighteen feathers in the tail, of about six -inches in length. He is also booted to the toes: the two tufts of long -black feathers on each side of the neck, so common in the male of this -species inhabiting the United States, are no less observable in this -pheasant: the feathers on the body are of a dark brown, tipped with -white and black, in which mixture the black predominates; the white are -irregularly intermixed with those of the black and dark brown in every -part, but in greater proportion about the neck, breast, and belly: this -mixture makes this bird resemble much that kind of dunghill fowl, which -the housewives of our country call Domminicker. On the breast of some -of these species the white predominates: the tufts on the neck leave a -space about two and a half inches long, and one inch in width, where -no feathers grow, though concealed by the plumage connected with the -higher and under parts of the neck; this space enables them to contract -or dilate the feathers on the neck with more ease: the eye is dark, -the beak is black, curved, somewhat pointed, and the upper exceeds -the under chop: a narrow vermillion stripe runs above each eye, not -protuberant but uneven, with a number of minute rounded dots. The bird -feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the sacacommis, and -exclusively resides in that portion of the Rocky mountains watered by -the Columbia. - -2. The small speckled pheasant resides in the same country with the -foregoing, and differs only in size and colour. He is half the size of -the black and white pheasant, associates in much larger flocks, and is -very gentle: the black is more predominant, and the dark brown feathers -less frequent in this than in the larger species: the mixture of white -is more general on every part. This bird is smaller than our pheasant, -and the body more round: the flesh of both this species is dark, and -with our means of cooking, not well flavoured. - -3. The small brown pheasant is an inhabitant of the same country, and -is of the same size and shape of the speckled pheasant, which he -likewise resembles in his habits. The stripe above the eye in this -species is scarcely perceptible, and is, when closely examined, of -a yellow or orange colour, instead of the vermillion of the other -species: the colour is a uniform mixture of dark yellowish brown, with -a slight aspersion of brownish white on the breast, belly, and feathers -underneath the tail: the whole appearance has much the resemblance of -the common quail: this bird is also booted to the toes: the flesh of -this is preferable to the other two. - -4. The buzzard is, we believe, the largest bird of North America. One -which was taken by our hunters was not in good condition, and yet the -weight was twenty-five pounds. Between the extremity of the wings the -bird measured nine feet and two inches: from the extremity of the beak -to the toe, three feet nine and a half inches; from the hip to the toe, -two feet; the circumference of the head was nine and three-quarter -inches: that of the neck seven and a half inches; that of the body -inclusive of two feet three inches: the diameter of the eye is four and -a half tenths of an inch; the iris is of a pale scarlet red, and the -pupil of a deep sea-green: the head and part of the neck are uncovered -by feathers: the tail is composed of twelve feathers of equal length, -each of the length of fourteen inches: the legs are uncovered and not -entirely smooth: the toes are four in number, three forward, and that -in the centre much the largest; the fourth is short, inserted near the -inner of the three other toes, and rather projecting forward: the thigh -is covered with feathers as low as the knee, the top or upper part of -the toes are imbricated with broad scales, lying transversely: the -nails are black, short, and bluntly pointed: the under side of the wing -is covered with white down and feathers: a white stripe of about two -inches in width marks the outer part of the wing, embracing the lower -points of the plumage, covering the joints of the wing: the remainder -is of a deep black: the skin of the beak and head to the joining of -the neck, is of a pale orange colour; the other part, destitute of -plumage, is of a light flesh colour. It is not known that this bird -preys upon living animals: we have seen him feeding on the remains -of the whale and other fish thrown upon the coast by the violence of -the waves. This bird was not seen by any of the party until we had -descended Columbia river, below the great falls, and he is believed -to be of the vulture genus, although the bird lacks some of the -characteristics, particularly the hair on the neck, and the plumage on -the legs. - -5. The robin is an inhabitant of the Rocky mountains: the beak is -smooth, black, and convex; the upper chop exceeds the other in length, -and a few small black hairs garnish the sides of its base: the eye -is of a uniform deep sea-green colour: the legs, feet, and talons -are white, of which the front one is of the same length of the leg, -including the talon; these are slightly imbricated, curved, and sharply -pointed: the crown, from the beak back to the neck, embracing more than -half the circumference of the neck, the back, and tail, are all of a -bluish dark brown: the two outer feathers of the tail are dashed with -white near their tips, imperceptible when the tail is folded: a fine -black forms the ground of their wings; two stripes of the same colour -pass on either side of the head, from the base of the beak to the -junction, and embrace the eye to its upper edge: a third stripe of the -same colour passes from the sides of the neck to the tips of the wings, -across the croop, in the form of a gorget: the throat, neck, breast, -and belly, are of a fine brick red, tinged with yellow; a narrow stripe -of this colour commences just above the centre of each eye, and extends -backwards to the neck till it comes in contact with the black stripe -before mentioned, to which it seems to answer as a border: the feathers -forming the first and second ranges of the coverts of the two joints of -the wing next to the body, are beautifully tipped with this brick red, -as is also each large feather of the wing, on the short side of its -plumage. This beautiful little bird feeds on berries. The robin is an -inhabitant exclusively of the woody country; we have never heard its -note, which the coldness of the season may perhaps account for. - -The leather-winged bat, so common to the United States, likewise -inhabits this side of the Rocky mountains. - -6. The crow and raven is exactly the same in appearance and note as -that on the Atlantic, except that it is much smaller on the Columbia. - -7. The hawks too of this coast do not differ from those of the United -States. We here see the large brown hawk, the small or sparrow hawk, -and one of an intermediate size, called in the United States, the hen -hawk, which has a long tail and blue wings, and is extremely fierce, -and rapid in its flight. The hawks, crows, and ravens are common to -every part of this country, their nests being scattered in the high -cliffs, along the whole course of the Columbia and its southeastern -branches. - -8. The large blackbird is the same with those of our country, and are -found every where in this country. - -9. The large hooting owl we saw only on the Kooskooskee under the Rocky -mountains. It is the same in form and size with the owl of the United -States, though its colours, particularly the reddish brown, seem deeper -and brighter. - -10. The turtle-dove and the robin (except the Columbian robin already -described) are the same as those of the United States, and are found in -the plains as well as in the common broken country. - -11. The magpie is most commonly found in the open country, and resemble -those of the Missouri, already described. - -12. The large woodpecker or laycock, the lark woodpecker, and the -common small white woodpecker, with a red head, are the inhabitants -exclusively of the timbered lands, and differ in no respect from birds -of the same species in the United States. - -13. The lark, which is found in the plains only, and is not unlike -what is called in Virginia, the old field lark, is the same with those -already described as seen on the Missouri. - -14. The flycatcher is of two species. - -The first is of a small body, of a reddish brown colour: the tail -and neck short, and the beak pointed: some fine black specks are -intermingled with the reddish brown. This is of the same species with -that which remains all winter in Virginia, where it is sometimes called -the wren. - -The second species has recently returned, and emigrates during the -winter. The colours of this bird are, a yellowish brown, on the back, -head, neck, wing and tail; the breast and belly are of a yellowish -white; the tail is in the same proportion as that of the wren, but the -bird itself is of a size smaller than the wren: the beak is straight, -pointed, convex, rather large at the base, and the chops are of equal -length. The first species is smaller, and in fact the smallest bird -which captain Lewis had ever seen excepting the humming bird. Both of -this species are found exclusively in the woody country. - -15. Corvus. The blue-crested, and the small white-breasted corvus, are -both natives of the piny country, and are invariably found as well on -the Rocky mountains as on this coast. They have already been described. - -16. The snipe, &c. The common snipe of the marshes, and the common sand -snipe, are of the same species as those so well known in the United -States. They are by no means found in such abundance here as they are -on the coast of the Atlantic. - -17. The leathern winged bat, so familiar to the natives of the United -States, is likewise found on this side of the Rocky mountains. - -18. The white woodpecker, likewise frequents these regions, and reminds -our party of their native country, by his approaches. The head of -this bird is of a deep red colour, like that of the United States. -We have conjectured that he has lately returned, as he does not abide -in this country during the winter. The large woodpecker, and the lark -woodpecker, are found in this country, and resemble those of the United -States. - -19. The black woodpecker is found in most parts of the Rocky mountains, -as well as in the western and south-western mountains. He is about the -size of the lark woodpecker, or turtle-dove, although his wings are -longer than the wings of either of those birds: the beak is one inch -in length, black, curved at the base, and sharply pointed: the chops -are the same in length; around the base of the beak, including the eye -and a small part of the throat, there is a fine crimson red: the neck, -as low down as the crook in front, is of an iron gray: the belly and -breast present a curious mixture of white and blood-red, which has much -the appearance of paint, where the red predominates: the top of the -head, back, sides, and upper surface of the wings and tail, exhibit -the appearance of a glossy green, in a certain exposure to the light: -the under side of the wings and tail, is of a sooty black: the tail is -equipped with ten feathers, sharply pointed, and those in the centre -the longest, being about two and a half inches in length: the tongue -is barbed and pointed, and of an elastic and cartilagenous substance: -the eye is rather large, the pupil black, and the iris of a dark and -yellowish brown: the bird in its actions when flying, resembles the -small red-headed woodpecker common to the United States, and likewise -in its notes: the pointed tail renders essential service when the bird -is sitting and retaining his resting position against the perpendicular -sides of a tree: the legs and feet are black, and covered with wide -imbricated scales: he has four toes on each foot, two in the rear and -two in front, the nails of which are much curved and pointed remarkably -sharp: he feeds on bugs and a variety of insects. - -20. The calumet eagle, sometimes inhabits this side of the Rocky -mountains. This information captain Lewis derived from the natives, -in whose possession he had seen their plumage. These are of the same -species with those of the Missouri, and are the most beautiful of all -the family of eagles in America. The colours are black and white, and -beautifully variegated. The tail feathers, so highly prized by the -natives, are composed of twelve broad feathers of unequal length, -which are white, except within two inches of their extremities, where -they immediately change to a jetty black: the wings have each a large -circular white spot in the middle, which is only visible when they are -extended: the body is variously marked with black and white: in form -they resemble the bald eagle, but they are rather smaller, and fly -with much more rapidity. This bird is feared by all his carniverous -competitors, who, on his approach, leave the carcase instantly, on -which they had been feeding. The female breeds in the most inaccessible -parts of the mountains, where she makes her summer residence, and -descends to the plains only in the fall and winter seasons. The -natives are at this season on the watch, and so highly is this plumage -prized by the Mandans, the Minnetarees, and the Ricaras, that the tail -feathers of two of these eagles will be purchased by the exchange -of a good horse or gun, and such accoutrements. Amongst the great -and little Osages, and those nations inhabiting the countries where -the bird is more rarely seen, the price is even double of that above -mentioned. With these feathers the natives decorate the stems of their -sacred pipes or calumets, from whence the name of the calumet eagle is -derived. The Ricaras have domesticated this bird in many instances, for -the purpose of obtaining its plumage. The natives, on every part of the -continent, who can procure the feathers, attach them to their own hair, -and the manes and tails of their favourite horses, by way of ornament. -They also decorate their war caps or bonnets with these feathers. - -As to the aquatic birds of this country, we have to repeat the remark, -that, as we remained near the coast during the winter only, many birds, -common both in the summer and autumn, might have retired from the cold, -and been lost to our observation. We saw, however, - -The large blue, and brown herron; the fishing hawk; the blue-crested -fisher; several species of gulls; the cormorant; two species of loons; -brant of two kinds; geese; swan; and several species of ducks. - -1. The large blue and brown herrons, or cranes, as they are usually -termed in the United States, are found on the Columbia below -tide-water. They differ in no respect from the same species of bird in -the United States. The same may be observed of - -2. The fishing hawk, with the crown of the head white, and the back of -a mealy white, and - -3. Of the blue-crested or king-fisher, both of which are found every -where on the Columbia and its tributary waters; though the fishing hawk -is not abundant, particularly in the mountains. - -4. Of gulls, we have remarked four species on the coast and the river, -all common to the United States. - -5. The cormorant is, properly speaking, a large black duck that feeds -on fish. Captain Lewis could perceive no difference between this bird -and those ducks which inhabit the Potomack and other rivers on the -Atlantic coast. He never remembered to have seen those inhabiting the -Atlantic states, so high up the river as they have been found in this -quarter. We first discovered the corvus on the Kooskooskee, at the -entrance of Chopunish river: they increased in numbers as we descended, -and formed much the greatest portion of the water-fowl which we saw -until we reached the Columbia at the entrance of the tides. They abound -even here, but bear no proportion to the number of other water-fowl -seen at this place. - -6. The loon: there are two species of loons: the speckled loon, found -on every part of the rivers of this country. They are of the same -size, colour and form, with those of the Atlantic coast. - -The second species we found at the falls of Columbia, and from thence -downwards to the ocean. This bird is not more than half the size of -the speckled loon, the neck is, in front, long slender and white: the -plumage on the body and back of the head and neck are of a dun or ash -colour: the breast and belly are white, the beak like that of the -speckled loon; and like them, it cannot fly, but flutters along on the -surface of the water, or dives for security when pursued. - -7. The brant are of three kinds; the white, the brown, and the -pied. The white brant are very common on the shores of the Pacific, -particularly below the water, where they remain in vast numbers during -the winter: they feed like the swan-geese, on the grass, roots, and -seeds which grow in the marshes: this bird is about the size of the -brown brant, or a third less than the common Canadian wild goose: the -head is rather larger, the beak thicker than that of the wild goose, -shorter, and of much the same form, being of a yellowish white colour, -except the edges of the chops, which are frequently of a dark brown: -the legs and feet are of the same form of the goose, and are of a pale -flesh colour: the tail is composed of sixteen feathers of equal length -as those of the geese and brown brant are, and bears about the same -proportion in point of length: the eye is of a dark colour, and nothing -remarkable in size: the wings are larger when compared with those of -the geese, but not so much so as in the brown brant: the colour of -the plumage is a pure uniform white, except the large feathers at the -extremity of the wings, which are black: the large feathers at the -first joint of the wing next to the body are white: the note of this -bird differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles that -of the brown brant, but is somewhat different; it is like the note of a -young domestic goose, that has not perfectly attained its full sound: -the flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, preferable to either the -goose or brown brant. - -2. The brown brant are much of the same colour, form, and size as -the white, only that their wings are considerably longer and more -pointed: the plumage of the upper part of the body, neck, head, and -tail, are much the colour of the Canadian goose, but somewhat darker, -in consequence of some dark feathers irregularly scattered throughout: -they have not the same white on the neck and sides of the head as the -goose, nor is the neck darker than the body: like the goose, they -have some white feathers on the rump at the joining of the tail: the -beak is dark, and the legs and feet also dark with a greenish cast: -the breast and belly are of a lighter colour than the back, and is -also irregularly intermixed with dark brown and black feathers, which -give it a pied appearance: the flesh is darker and better than that -of the goose: the habits of these birds resemble those of the geese, -with this difference, that they do not remain in this climate in such -numbers during the winter as the others, and that they set out earlier -in the fall season on their return to the south, and arrive later in -the spring than the goose. There is no difference between this bird and -that called simply the brant, so common on the lakes, on the Ohio and -Mississippi. The small goose of this country is rather less than the -brant; its head and neck like the brant. - -3. The pied brant weigh about eight and a half pounds, differing from -the ordinary pied brant in their wings, which are neither so long -nor so pointed: the base of the beak is for a little distance white, -suddenly succeeded by a narrow line of dark brown: the remainder of -the neck, head, back, wings and tail, all except the tips of the -feathers, are of a bluish brown of the common wild goose: the breast -and belly are white, with an irregular mixture of black feathers, which -give those parts a pied appearance. From the legs back underneath the -tail and around its junction with the body above, the feathers are -white: the tail is composed of eighteen feathers, the longest in the -centre, and measures six inches with the barrel of the quill: those -on the sides of the tail are something shorter, and bend with the -extremities inwards towards the centre of the tail: the extremities -of these feathers are white: the beak is of a light flesh colour: the -legs and feet, which do not differ in structure from those of the goose -or brant of other species, are of an orange colour: the eye is small, -the iris of a dark yellowish brown, and pupil black: the note is much -that of the common pied brant, from which in fact, they are not to be -distinguished at a distance, although they certainly are of a distinct -species: the flesh is equally palatable with that of common pied brant. -They do not remain here during the winter in such numbers as the bird -above mentioned: this bird is here denominated the pied brant, on -account of the near resemblance, and for want of another appellation. - -8. The geese are either the large or small kind: the large goose -resembles our ordinary wild or Canadian goose; the small is rather less -than the brant, which it resembles in the head and neck, where it is -larger in proportion than that of the goose: the beak is thicker and -shorter; the note like that of a tame goose. In all other points it -resembles the large goose, with which it associates so frequently, that -it was some time before it was discovered to be of a distinct species. - -9. The swan are of two kinds, the large and the small: the large swan -is the same common to the Atlantic states: the small differs only from -the large in size and in note: it is about one fourth less, and its -note is entirely different. It cannot be justly imitated by the sound -of letters; it begins with a kind of whistling sound, and terminates in -a round full note, louder at the end: this note is as loud as that of -the large species; whence it might be denominated the whistling swan: -its habits, colour, and contour, appears to be precisely those of the -larger species: these birds were first found below the great narrows of -the Columbia, near the Chilluckittequaw nation: they are very abundant -in this neighbourhood, and remained with the party all winter, and in -number they exceed those of the larger species in the proportion of -five to one. - -10. Of ducks, we enumerate many kinds: the duckinmallard; the -canvass-back duck; the red-headed fishing duck, the black and white -duck; the little brown duck; black duck; two species of divers, and -blue-winged teal. - -1. The duckinmallard, or common large duck, resembles the domestic -duck, are very abundant, and found in every part of the river below the -mountains: they remain here all winter, but during this season do not -continue much above tide-water. - -2. The canvass-back duck is a most beautiful fowl, and most -delicious to the palate: it is found in considerable numbers in this -neighbourhood. It is of the same species with those of the Delaware, -Susquehannah and Potomack, where it is called the canvass-back duck, -and in James’ river it is known by the name of the shelled drake. -From this last mentioned river, it is said, however, that they have -almost totally disappeared. To the epicure of those parts of the United -States, where this game is in plenty, nothing need be said in praise -of its exquisite flavour, and those on the banks of the Columbia are -equally delicious. We saw nothing of them until after we had reached -the marshy islands. - -3. The red headed fishing duck is common to every part of the river, -and was likewise found in the Rocky mountains, and was the only duck -discovered in the waters of the Columbia within those mountains. They -feed chiefly on crawfish, and are the same in every respect as those on -the rivers and the mountains bordering on the Atlantic ocean. - -4. The black and white duck is small, and a size larger than the teal. -The male is beautifully variegated with black and white: the white -occupies the side of the head, breast and back, the tail, feathers of -the wings, and two tufts of feathers which cover the upper part of -the wings, when folded, and likewise the neck and head: the female is -darker. This is believed to be the same species of duck common to the -Atlantic coast, and called the butter-box: the beak is wide and short, -and, as well as the legs, of a dark colour, and the flesh extremely -well flavoured. In form it resembles the duckinmallard, although not -more than half the size of that bird. It generally resorts to the -grassy marshes, and feeds on grass seeds, as well as roots. - -5. The black duck is about the size of the blue-winged teal; the colour -of a dusky black; the breast and belly somewhat lighter, and of a dusky -brown: the legs stand longitudinally with the body, and the bird when -on shore, stands very erect: the legs and feet are of a dark brown: it -has four toes on each foot, and a short one at the heel: the long toes -are in front, unconnected with the web: the webs are attached to each -side of the several joints of the toe, and divided by several sinews -at each joint, the web assuming in the intermediate part an elliptical -form: the beak is about two inches long, straight, fluted on the sides, -and tapering to a sharp point: the upper chop is the longest, and bears -on its base, at its junction with the head, a little conic protuberance -of a cartilagenous substance, being of a reddish brown at the point: -the beak is of an ivory colour; the eye dark. These ducks usually -associate in large flocks, are very noisy, and have a sharp shrill -whistle: they are fat and agreeably flavoured; feed principally on -moss and vegetable productions of the water: they are not exclusively -confined to the water at all seasons, captain Lewis has noticed them on -many parts of the rivers Ohio and Mississippi. - -6. The divers are the same with those of the United States. The smaller -species have some white feathers about the rump, with no perceptible -tail, and are very acute and quick in their motion: the body is of a -reddish brown; the beak sharp, and somewhat curved, like that of the -pheasant: the toes are not connected, but webbed, like those of the -black duck. The larger species are about the size of the teal, and can -fly a short distance, which the smaller but seldom attempt: they have -a short tail; their colour is also a uniform brick reddish brown; the -beak is straight and pointed: the feet are of the same form with the -other species: the leg remarkably thin and flat, one edge being in -front. The food of both species is fish and flesh: their flesh is unfit -for use. - -7. The blue-winged teal is an excellent duck, and in all respects -the same as those of the United States. One of our hunters killed -a duck which appeared to be a male. It was of a size less than the -duckinmallard; the head, the neck as low as the croup, the back, tail, -and covert of the wings were all of a deep fine black, with a slight -mixture of purple about the head and neck: the belly and breast are -white: some long feathers which lie underneath the wings, and cover the -thighs, were of a pale dove colour, with fine black specks: the large -feathers of the wings are of a dove colour: the legs are dark; the feet -are composed of four toes, of which three are in front connected by a -web: the fourth is short and flat, and placed high on the heel behind -the leg; the tail is composed of fourteen short pointed feathers: the -beak of this duck is remarkably wide, and two inches in length: the -upper chop exceeds the under one, both in length and width, insomuch, -that when the beak is closed, the under chop is entirely concealed -by the upper: the tongue indenture on the margin of the chops, are -like those of the mallard: the nostrils are large, longitudinal, and -connected: a narrow strip of white garnishes the base of the upper -chop: this is succeeded by a pale sky-blue colour, occupying about an -inch; which again is succeeded by a transverse stripe of white, and -the extremity is a fine black: the eye is moderately large, the pupil -black, and of a fine orange colour: the feathers on the crown of the -head are longer than those on the upper part of the neck and other -parts of the head, which give it the appearance of being crested. - -The fish, which we have had an opportunity of seeing, are, the whale, -porpoise, skait, flounder, salmon, red char, two species of salmon -trout, mountain, or speckled trout, bottlenose, anchovy, and sturgeon. - -1. The whale is sometimes pursued, harpooned and taken by the Indians, -although it is much more frequently killed by running foul of the rocks -in violent storms, and thrown on shore by the action of the wind and -tide. In either case, the Indians preserve and eat the blubber and oil; -the bone they carefully extract and expose to sale. - -2. The porpoise is common on this coast, and as far up the river as the -water is brackish. The Indians sometimes gig them, and always eat their -flesh when they can procure it. - -3. The skait is also common in the salt water: we saw several of them -which had perished, and were thrown on shore by the tide. - -4. The flounder is also well known here, and we have often seen them -left on the beach after the departure of the tide. The Indians eat this -fish, and think it very fine. These several species of fish are the -same with those on the Atlantic coast. - -5. The common salmon and red char are the inhabitants of both the sea -and rivers; the former are usually the largest, and weigh from five -to fifteen pounds: they extend themselves into all the rivers and -little creeks on this side of the continent, and to them the natives -are much indebted for their subsistence: the body of the fish is from -two and an half to three feet long, and proportionably broad: it is -covered with imbricated scales, of a moderate size, and gills: the eye -is large, and the iris of a silvery colour: the pupil is black, the -rostrum or nose extends beyond the under jaw, and both jaws are armed -with a single series of long teeth, which are subulate and inflected -near the extremities of the jaws, where they are also more closely -arranged: they have some sharp teeth of smaller size, and some sharp -points placed on the tongue, which is thick and fleshy: the fins of -the back are two; the first is placed nearer the head than the ventral -fins, and has several rays: the second is placed far back, near the -tail, and has no rays. The flesh of this fish is, when in order, of -a deep flesh-coloured red, and every shade from that to an orange -yellow: when very meagre it is almost white: the roes of this fish -are in high estimation among the natives, who dry them in the sun, -and preserve them for a great length of time: they are of the size of -a small pea, nearly transparent, and of a reddish yellow cast; they -resemble very much, at a little distance, our common garden currants, -but are more yellow. Both the fins and belly of this fish are sometimes -red, particularly the male: the red char are rather broader, in -proportion to their length, than the common salmon: the scales are -also imbricated, but rather larger; the rostrum exceeds the under -jaw more, and the teeth are neither so large or so numerous as those -of the salmon: some of them are almost entirely red on the belly and -sides; others are much more white than the salmon, and none of them are -variegated with the dark spots which mark the body of the other: their -flesh, roes, and every other particular, with regard to the form, is -that of the salmon. - -6. Of the salmon trout, we observe two species, differing only in -colour; they are seldom more than two feet in length, and narrow -in proportion to their length, much more so than the salmon or red -char. The jaws are nearly of the same length, and are furnished with -a single series of small subulate straight teeth, not so long nor as -large as those of the salmon. The mouth is wide, and the tongue is -also furnished with some teeth: the fins are placed much like those of -the salmon. At the great falls we found this fish of a silvery white -colour on the belly and sides, and a bluish light brown on the back -and head; the second species is of a dark colour on its back, and its -sides and belly are yellow, with transverse stripes of dark brown; -sometimes a little red is intermixed with these colours on the belly -and sides towards the head. The eye, flesh, and roe, are like those -described of the salmon: the white species found below the falls, were -in excellent order, when the salmon were entirely out of season and -not fit for use. They associate with the red char, in little rivulets -and creeks: the Indians say that the salmon begin to run early in May. -The white salmon trout is about two feet and eight inches long, and -weighs ten pounds: the eye is moderately large, the pupil black, with -a small admixture of yellow, and iris of a silvery white, and a little -turbid near its border with a yellowish brown. The fins are small in -proportion to the fish; are bony but not pointed, except the tail and -back fins, which are pointed a little: the prime back fin and ventral -ones contain each ten rays, those of the gills thirteen, that of the -tail twelve, and the small fin placed near and above the tail has no -bony rays, but is a tough flexible substance, covered with smooth skin. -It is thicker in proportion to its width than the salmon: the tongue is -thick and firm, beset on each border with small subulate teeth, in a -single series: the teeth and the mouth are as before described. Neither -this fish nor the salmon are caught with the hook, nor do we know on -what they feed. - -7. The mountain or speckled trout are found in the waters of the -Columbia within the mountains: they are the same with those found in -the upper part of the Missouri, but are not so abundant in the Columbia -as on that river. We never saw this fish below the mountains, but -from the transparency and coldness of the Kooskooskee, we should not -doubt of its existence in that stream as low as its junction with the -southeast branch of the Columbia. - -8. The bottlenose is the same with that before mentioned on the -Missouri, and is found exclusively within the mountains. - -Of shell fish we observe the clam, periwinkle, common muscle, the -cockle, and a species with a circular flat shell. The clam of this -coast are very small; the shell consists of two valves, which open -with hinges: the shell is smooth, thin, of an oval form like that of -the common muscle, and of sky-blue colour. It is about one and a half -inches in length and hangs in clusters to the moss of the rocks: the -natives sometimes eat them. The periwinkle both of the river and the -ocean, are similar to those found in the same situation on the Atlantic -coast. The common muscle of the river are also the same with those on -the rivers of the Atlantic coast: the cockle is small, and resembles -much that of the Atlantic: there is also an animal that inhabits a -shell perfectly circular, about three inches in diameter, thin and -entire on the margin, convex and smooth on the upper side, plain on the -under part and covered with a number of minute capillary fibres, by -means of which it attaches itself to the sides of the rocks: the shell -is thin, and consists of one valve; a small circular aperture is formed -in the centre of the under shell: the animal is soft and boneless. - -The pellucid substance and fuci. The pellucid jelly-like substance, -called the sea-nettle, is found in great abundance along the strand, -where it has been thrown up by the waves and tide: there are two -species of the fuci thrown up in that manner: the first species at one -extremity consists of a large vesicle or hollow vessel, which will -contain from one to two gallons; it is of a conic form, the base of -which forms the extreme end, and is convex and globular, bearing at its -centre some short, broad, and angular fibres: the substance is about -the consistence of the rind of a citron mellon, and three-fourths of an -inch thick: the rind is smooth from the small extremity of the cone; a -long hollow cylindric and regular tapering tube extends to twenty or -thirty feet, and is then terminated with a number of branches, which -are flat, half an inch in width, rough, particularly on the edges, -where they are furnished with a number of little ovate vesicles or bags -of the size of a pigeon’s egg: this plant seems to be calculated to -float at each extremity, while the little end of the tube, from whence -the branches proceed, lie deepest in the water: the other species -seen on the coast towards the Killamucks, resembles a large pumpkin; -it is solid, and its specific gravity is greater than the water, -though sometimes thrown out by the waves: it is of a yellowish brown -colour; the rind smooth, and its consistence is harder than that of the -pumpkin; but easily cut with a knife: there are some dark brown fibres, -rather harder than any other part, which pass longitudinally through -the pulp or fleshy substance which forms the interior of this marine -production. - -The reptiles of this country are the rattlesnake, the gartersnake, -lizard, and snail. - -The gartersnake appears to belong to the same family with the common -gartersnakes of the Atlantic coast, and like that snake they inherit -no poisonous qualities: they have one hundred and sixty scuta on -the abdomen, and seventy on the tail: those on the abdomen near the -head and jaws as high as the eye, are of a bluish white, which, as -it recedes from the head, becomes of a dark brown: the field of the -back and sides black: a narrow stripe of a light yellow runs along -the centre of the back; on each side of this stripe there is a range -of small transverse, oblong spots, of a pale brick red, diminishing -as they recede from the head, and disappear at the commencement of -the tail: the pupil of the eye is black, with a narrow ring of white -bordering on its edge; the remainder of the iris is of a dark yellowish -brown. - -The horned lizard, called, and for what reason we never could learn, -the prairie buffaloe, is a native of these plains, as well as those -on the Missouri: they are of the same size, and much the same in -appearance as the black lizard: the belly is however broader, the -tail shorter, and the action much slower; the colour is generally -brown intermixed with yellowish brown spots: the animal is covered -with minute scales, interspersed with small horny points, like blunt -prickes on the upper surface of the body: the belly and throat resemble -those of the frog, and are of a light yellowish brown: the edge of the -belly is likewise beset with small horny projections, imparting to -those edges a serrate appearance: the eye is small and dark: above and -behind the eyes there are several projections of that bone, and their -extremities also being armed with a firm black substance, resemble the -appearance of horns sprouting from the head: these animals are found in -greatest numbers in the sandy open plains, and appear in the greatest -abundance after a shower of rain: they are sometimes found basking in -the sunshine, but conceal themselves in little holes of the earth in -much the greatest proportion of the time: this may account for their -appearance in such numbers after the rain, as their holes may thus be -rendered untenantable. - -9. The anchovy, which the natives call olthen, is so delicate a fish -that it soon becomes tainted, unless pickled or smoked: the natives -run a small stick through the gills and hang it up to dry in the smoke -of their lodges, or kindle small fires under it for the purpose of -drying: it needs no previous preparation of gutting, and will be cured -in twenty-four hours: the natives do not appear to be very scrupulous -about eating them when a little fœtid. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - Difficulty of procuring means of subsistence for the - party--they determine to resume their journey to the - mountains--they leave in the hands of the Indians a written - memorandum, importing their having penetrated to the - Pacific, through the route of the Missouri and Columbia, - and through the Rocky mountains--the party commence their - return route--dexterity of the Cathlamah Indians in - carving--description of the Coweliskee river--they experience - much hospitality from the natives--an instance of the extreme - voracity of the vulture--the party are visited by many strange - Indians, all of whom are kind and hospitable--scarcity of - game, and embarrassments of the party on that account--captain - Clarke discovers a tribe not seen in the descent down - the Columbia--singular adventure to obtain provisions - from them--particular description of the Multomah village - and river--description of mount Jefferson--some account - by captain Clarke of the Neerchokio tribe, and of their - architecture--their sufferings by the small-pox. - - -Many reasons had determined us to remain at fort Clatsop till the first -of April. Besides the want of fuel in the Columbian plains, and the -impracticability of passing the mountains before the beginning of June, -we were anxious to see some of the foreign traders, from whom, by means -of our ample letters of credit, we might have recruited our exhausted -stores of merchandise. About the middle of March however, we become -seriously alarmed for the want of food: the elk, our chief dependence, -had at length deserted their usual haunts in our neighborhood, and -retreated to the mountains. We were too poor to purchase other food -from the Indians, so that we were sometimes reduced, notwithstanding -all the exertions of our hunters, to a single day’s provision in -advance. The men too, whom the constant rains and confinement had -rendered unhealthy, might we hoped be benefitted by leaving the coast, -and resuming the exercise of travelling. We therefore determined to -leave fort Clatsop, ascend the river slowly, consume the month of -March in the woody country, where we hope to find subsistence, and in -this way reach the plains about the first of April, before which time -it will be impossible to attempt crossing them: for this purpose we -began our preparations. During the winter we had been very industrious -in dressing skins, so that we now had a sufficient quantity of -clothing, besides between three and four hundred pair of moccasins. -But the whole stock of goods on which we are to depend, either for the -purchase of horses or of food, during the long tour of nearly four -thousand miles, is so much diminished, that it might all be tied in -two handkerchiefs. We have in fact nothing but six blue robes, one -of scarlet, a coat and hat of the United States artillery uniform, -five robes made of our large flag, and a few old clothes trimmed with -riband. We therefore feel that our chief dependence must be on our -guns, which fortunately for us are all in good order, as we had taken -the precaution of bringing a number of extra locks, and one of our -men proved to be an excellent artist in that way. The powder had been -secured in leaden canisters, and though on many occasions they had been -under water, it remained perfectly dry, and we now found ourselves in -possession of one hundred and forty pounds of powder, and twice that -quantity of lead, a stock quite sufficient for the route homewards. - -After much trafficking, we at last succeeded in purchasing a canoe for -a uniform coat and half a carrot of tobacco, and took a canoe from the -Clatsops, as a reprisal for some elk which some of them had stolen from -us in the winter. We were now ready to leave fort Clatsop, but the rain -prevented us for several days from caulking the canoes, and we were -forced to wait for calm weather, before we could attempt to pass point -William. In the meantime we were visited by many of our neighbours, -for the purpose of taking leave of us. The Clatsop Commowool has been -the most kind and hospitable of all the Indians in this quarter; we -therefore gave him a certificate of the kindness and attention which -we had received from him, and added a more substantial proof of our -gratitude, the gift of all our houses and furniture. To the Chinnook -chief Delashelwilt, we gave a certificate of the same kind: we also -circulated among the natives several papers, one of which we also -posted up in the fort, to the following effect: - -“The object of this last, is, that through the medium of some civilized -person, who may see the same, it may be made known to the world, that -the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, -and who were sent out by the government of the United States to explore -the interior of the continent of North America, did penetrate the same -by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, to the discharge of the -latter into the Pacific ocean, where they arrived on the 14th day of -November 1805, and departed the 23d day of March, 1806, on their return -to the United States, by the same route by which they had come out.”[2] -On the back of some of these papers, we sketched the connexion of the -upper branches of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, with our route, and -the track which we intended to follow on our return. This memorandum -was all that we deemed it necessary to make; for there seemed but -little chance that any detailed report to our government, which we -might leave in the hands of the savages, to be delivered to foreign -traders, would ever reach the United States. To leave any of our men -here, in hopes of their procuring a passage home in some transient -vessel, would too much weaken our party, which we must necessarily -divide during our route; besides that, we will most probably be there -ourselves sooner than any trader, who, after spending the next summer -here, might go on some circuitous voyage. - - [2] By a singular casualty, this note fell into the possession - of captain Hill, who, while on the coast of the Pacific, - procured it from the natives. This note accompanied him on his - voyage to Canton, from whence it arrived in the United States. - The following is an extract of a letter, from a gentleman at - Canton to his friend in Philadelphia: - - _Extract of a letter from ---- to ---- in Philadelphia_. - - Canton, January, 1807. - - I wrote you last by the Governor Strong, Cleveland, for Boston; - the present is by the brig Lydia, Hill, of the same place. - - Captain Hill, while on the coast, met some Indian natives - near the mouth of the Columbia river, who delivered to him a - _paper_, of which I enclose you a copy. It had been committed - to their charge by captains Clarke and Lewis, who had - penetrated to the Pacific ocean. The original is a rough draft - with a pen of their outward route, and that which they intended - returning by. Just below the junction of Madison’s river, they - found an immense fall of _three hundred and sixty-two_ feet - perpendicular. This, I believe, exceeds in magnitude any other - known. From the natives captain Hill learned that they were all - in good health and spirits; had met many difficulties on their - progress, from various tribes of Indians, but had found them - about the sources of the Missouri very friendly, as were those - on Columbia river and the coast. - -The rains and wind still confined us to the fort; but at last our -provisions dwindled down to a single day’s stock, and it became -absolutely necessary to remove: we therefore sent a few hunters ahead, -and stopped the boats as well as we could with mud. The next morning, - -Sunday, March 23, 1806, the canoes were loaded, and at one o’clock -in the afternoon we look a final leave of fort Clatsop. The wind was -still high, but the alternative of remaining without provisions was -so unpleasant, that we hoped to be able to double point William. We -had scarcely left the fort when we met Delashelwilt, and a party of -twenty Chinnooks, who understanding that we had been trying to procure -a canoe, had brought one for sale. Being, however, already supplied, we -left them, and after getting out of Meriwether’s bay, began to coast -along the south side of the river: we doubled point William without -any injury, and at six o’clock reached, at the distance of sixteen -miles from fort Clatsop, the mouth of a small creek, where we found our -hunters. They had been fortunate enough to kill two elk, but at such a -distance that we could not send for them before the next morning. - -Monday, March 24, when they were brought in for breakfast. We then -proceeded. The country is covered with a thick growth of timber: the -water however is shallow to the distance of four miles from shore; and -although there is a channel deep enough for canoes on the south side, -yet as the tide was low, we found some difficulty in passing along. At -one o’clock we reached the Cathlamah village, where we halted for about -two hours, and purchased some wappatoo and a dog for the invalids. This -village we have already described, as situated opposite to the seal -islands: on one of these the Indians have placed their dead in canoes, -raised on scaffolds, above the reach of the tide. These people seem to -be more fond of carving in wood than their neighbours, and have various -specimens of their taste about the houses. The broad pieces supporting -the roof and the board through which doors are cut, are the objects on -which they chiefly display their ingenuity, and are ornamented with -curious figures, sometimes representing persons in a sitting posture -supporting a burden. On resuming our route among the seal islands, we -mistook our way, which an Indian observing, he pursued us and put us -into the right channel. He soon, however, embarrassed us, by claiming -the canoe we had taken from the Clatsops, and which he declared was -his property: we had found it among the Clatsops, and seized it as a -reprisal for a theft committed by that nation; but being unwilling to -do an act of injustice to this Indian, and having no time to discuss -the question of right, we compromised with him for an elk skin, with -which he returned perfectly satisfied. We continued our route along the -shore, and after making fifteen miles encamped at an old village of -nine houses, opposite to the lower village of the Wahkiacums. Here we -were overtaken by two Chinnooks, who came to us after dark, and spent -the night at our camp. We found plenty of wood for fires, which were -quite necessary, as the weather had became cold. This morning, - -Tuesday 25, proved so disagreeably cold that we did not set out before -seven o’clock, when having breakfasted, we continued along the southern -side of the river. The wind, however, as well as a strong current -was against us, so that we proceeded slowly. On landing for dinner -at noon, we were joined by some Clatsops, who had been on a trading -voyage to the Skilloots, and were now on their return loaded with dried -anchovies, wappatoo, and sturgeon. After dinner we crossed the river -to a large island, along the side of which we continued about a mile -till we reached a single house, occupied by three men, two women, and -the same number of boys, all of the Cathlamah nation. They were engaged -in fishing or trolling for sturgeon, of which they had caught about a -dozen, but they asked so much for them that we were afraid to purchase. -One of the men purchased the skin of a sea-otter, in exchange for a -dressed elk skin and a handkerchief. Near adjoining this house was -another party of Cathlamahs, who had been up the river on a fishing -excursion, and been successful in procuring a large supply, which they -were not disposed to sell. We proceeded on to the head of the island, -and then crossed to the north side of the river. Here the coast formed -a continued swamp for several miles back, so that it was late in the -evening before we were able to reach a spot fit for our camp. At -length we discovered the entrance of a small creek, opposite to the -place where we were encamped on the sixth of November, and though the -ground was low and moist, yet as the spot was sheltered from the wind, -we resolved to pass the night there: we had now made fifteen miles. -Here we found another party of ten Cathlamahs, who had established -a temporary residence here for the purpose of fishing sturgeon and -taking seal, in both of which they had been successful. They gave -us some of the flesh of the seal, which was a valuable addition -to the lean elk. The low grounds which we passed are supplied with -cottonwood, and the tree resembling the ash, except in its leaf, with -red willow, broad-leafed willow, seven bark, gooseberry, green briar, -and the large-leafed thorn. The wind was very high towards evening, and -continued to blow so violent in the morning, - -March 26, that we could not set out before eight o’clock. In the -meantime finding that one of our neighbours, the Cathlamahs, by name -Wallale, was a person of distinction, we gave him a medal of a small -size, with which he was invested with the usual ceremonies. He appeared -highly gratified, and requited us with a large sturgeon. The wind -having abated, we proceeded to an old village, where we halted for -dinner, having met on the way Sahawacap the principal chief of all the -Cathlamahs, who was on his return from a trading voyage up the river, -with wappatoo and fish, some of which he gave us, and we purchased a -little more. At dinner we were overtaken by two Wahkiacums, who have -been following us for twenty-four hours, with two dogs, for which they -are importuning us to give them some tobacco; but as we have very -little of that article left, they were obliged to go off disappointed. -We received at the same time an agreeable supply of three eagles and a -large goose, brought in by the hunters. After dinner we passed along -the north shore opposite to a high fine bottom and dry prairie, at the -upper end of which, near a grove of whiteoak trees, is an island which -we called Fanny’s island. There were some deer and elk at a distance -in the prairie, but as we could not stay to hunt, we continued till -late in the evening, when we encamped on the next island above Fanny’s. -According to the estimate we made in descending the river, which we -begin, however, to think was short, our journey of to-day was eighteen -miles. Some Indians came to us, but we were occupied in procuring wood, -which, we found it difficult to obtain in sufficient quantity for our -purposes, and they therefore did not remain long. - -Thursday, 27. We set out early, and were soon joined by some Skilloots, -with fish and roots for sale. At ten o’clock we stopped to breakfast at -two houses of the same nation, where we found our hunters, who had not -returned to camp last night, but had killed nothing. The inhabitants -seemed very kind and hospitable. They gave almost the whole party -as much as they could eat of dried anchovies, wappatoo, sturgeon, -quamash, and a small white tuberous root, two inches long, and as -thick as a man’s finger, which, when eaten raw, is crisp, milky, and -of an agreeable flavour. The Indians also urged us to remain with them -all day, and hunt elk and deer, which they said were abundant in the -neighbourhood; but as the weather would not permit us to dry and pitch -our canoes, we declined their offer and proceeded. At the distance -of two miles we passed the entrance of Coweliskee river. This stream -discharges itself on the north side of the Columbia, about three miles -above a remarkably high rocky knoll, the south side of which it washes -in passing, and which is separated from the northern hills by a wide -bottom of several miles in extent. The Coweliskee is one hundred and -fifty yards wide, deep and navigable, as the Indians assert, for a -considerable distance, and most probably waters the country west and -north of the range of mountains which cross the Columbia between the -great falls and rapids. On the lower side of this river, a few miles -from its entrance into the Columbia, is the principal village of the -Skilloots, a numerous people, differing, however, neither in language, -dress, nor manners, from the Clatsops, Chinnooks, and other nations at -the mouth of the Columbia. With the Chinnooks they have lately been -at war, and though hostilities have ceased, yet they have not resumed -their usual intercourse, so that the Skilloots do not go as far as -the sea, nor do the Chinnooks come higher up than the Seal islands, -the trade between them being carried on by the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, -and Wahkiacums, their mutual friends. On this same river, above the -Skilloots, resides the nation called Hullooetell, of whom we learnt -nothing, except that the nation was numerous. Late in the evening we -halted at the beginning of the bottom land, below Deer island, after -having made twenty miles. Along the low grounds on the river were -the cottonwood, sweet-willow, the oak, ash, the broad-leafed ash, -and the growth resembling the beech; while the hills are occupied -almost exclusively by different species of fir, and the black alder -is common to the hills as well as the low grounds. During the day we -passed a number of fishing camps, on both sides of the river, and were -constantly attended by small parties of the Skilloots, who behaved in -the most orderly manner, and from whom we purchased as much fish and -roots as we wanted on very moderate terms. The night continued as the -day had been, cold, wet, and disagreeable. - -Friday, 28. We left our camp at an early hour, and by nine o’clock -reached an old Indian village on the left side of Deer island. Here -we found a party of our men whom we had sent on yesterday to hunt, -and who now returned after killing seven deer, in the course of the -morning, out of upwards of a hundred which they had seen. They were -the common fallow deer with long tails, and though very poor are -better than the black-tailed fallow deer of the coast, from which they -differ materially. Soon after our arrival the weather became fair, and -we therefore immediately hauled the boats on shore, and having dried -them by means of large fires, put on the pitch. We also took this -opportunity of drying our baggage, and as some of the hunters had not -yet returned, it was deemed advisable to pass the night at our present -camp. This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate -name of Elalah, or Deer island, is surrounded on the water side by an -abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior -consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds. These afford -refuge to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, -a few canvass-backed ducks, and particularly the duckinmallard, the -most abundant of all. There are also great numbers of snakes resembling -our gartersnakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. Our -hunters brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a -tyger-cat, but such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, that they -had devoured in the space of a few hours, four of the deer killed this -morning; and one of our men declared, that they had besides dragged a -large buck about thirty yards, skinned it, and broke the back-bone. We -were visited during the day by a large canoe with ten Indians of the -Quathlapotle nation, who reside about seventeen miles above us. We had -advanced only five miles to-day. - -Saturday, 29. At an early hour we proceeded along the side of Deer -island, and halted for breakfast at the upper end of it, which is -properly the commencement of the great Columbian valley. We were here -joined by three men of the Towahnahiook nation, with whom we proceeded, -till at the distance of fourteen miles from our camp of last evening -we reached a large inlet or arm of the river, about three hundred -yards wide, up which they went to their villages. A short distance -above this inlet a considerable river empties itself from the north -side of the Columbia. Its name is Chawahnahiooks. It is about one -hundred and fifty yards wide, and at present discharges a large body -of water, though the Indians assure us that at a short distance above -its mouth, the navigation is obstructed by falls and rapids. Three -miles beyond the inlet is an island near the north shore of the river, -behind the lower end of which is a village of Quathlapotles, where we -landed, about three o’clock. The village consists of fourteen large -wooden houses. The people themselves received us very kindly, and -voluntarily spread before us wappatoo and anchovies, but as soon as we -had finished enjoying this hospitality, if it deserves that name, they -began to ask us for presents. They were, however, perfectly satisfied -with the small articles which we distributed according to custom, and -equally pleased with our purchasing some wappatoo, twelve dogs and -two sea-otter skins. We also gave to the chief a small medal, which -he, however, soon transferred to his wife. After remaining some time -we embarked, and coasting along this island, which after the nation we -called Quathlapotle island, encamped for this night in a small prairie -on the north side of the Columbia, having made by estimate nineteen -miles. The river is rising fast. In the course of the day we saw great -numbers of geese, ducks, and large and small swans, which last are -very abundant in the ponds where the wappatoo grows, as they feed much -on that root. We also observed the crested king-fisher, and the large -and small blackbird: and this evening heard, without seeing, the large -hooting owl. The frogs, which we have not found in the wet marshes -near the entrance of the Columbia, are now croaking in the swamps and -marshes with precisely the same note common in the United States. -The gartersnakes appear in quantities, and are scattered through the -prairies in large bundles of forty or fifty entwined round each other: -among the moss on the rocks we observed a species of small wild onions -growing so closely together as to form a perfect turf, and equal in -favour to the shives of our gardens, which they resemble in appearance -also. - -Sunday, 30. Soon after our departure we were met by three -Clanaminamums, one of whom are recognised as our companion yesterday. -He pressed us very much to visit his countrymen on the inlet, but we -had no time to make the circuit, and parted. We proceeded far before -a party of Claxtars, and Cathlacumups, passed us in two canoes, on -their way down the river; and soon after we were met by several other -canoes, filled with persons of different tribes on each side of the -river. We passed, also, several fishing camps, on Wappatoo island, and -then halted for breakfast on the north side of the river, near our camp -of the 4th of November. Here we were visited by several canoes from -two villages on Wappatoo island; the first, about two miles above us, -is called Clahnaquah, the other a mile above them, has the name of -Multnomah. After higgling much in the manner of those on the seacoast, -these Indians gave us a sturgeon with some wappatoo and pashequaw in -exchange for small fish-hooks. As we proceeded we were joined by other -Indians, and on coming opposite to the Clahnaquah village, we were -shown another village about two miles from the river on the northeast -side, and behind a pond running parallel with it. Here they said the -tribe called Shotos resided. About four o’clock the Indians all left -us. Their chief object in accompanying us appeared to be to gratify -curiosity; but though they behaved in the most friendly manner, most -of them were prepared with their instruments of war. About sunset we -reached a beautiful prairie, opposite the middle of what we had called -Image-canoe island, and having made twenty-three miles, encamped for -the night. In the prairie is a large pond or lake, and an open grove -of oak borders the back part. There are many deer and elk in the -neighbourhood, but they are very shy, and the annual fern which is now -abundant and dry, make such a rustling as the hunters pass through it, -that they could not come within reach of the game, and we obtained -nothing but a single duck. - -Monday 31. We set out very early, and at eight o’clock landed on the -north side of the river and breakfasted. Directly opposite is a large -wooden house, belonging to the Shahala nation, the inhabitants of which -came over to see us. We had observed in descending the river last year, -that there were at the same place, twenty-four other houses built of -wood and covered with straw, all of which are now destroyed: on inquiry -the Indians informed us, that their relations whom we saw last fall, -usually visit them at that season for the purpose of hunting deer and -elk, and collecting wappatoo, but that they had lately returned to -their residence at the Rapids, we presume in order to prepare for the -salmon season, as that fish will soon begin to run. At ten o’clock we -resumed our route along the north side of the river, and having passed -Diamond island, and Whitebrant island, halted for the night at the -lower point of a handsome prairie. Our camp which is twenty-five miles -from that of last night, is situated opposite to the upper entrance -of Quicksand river: a little below a stream from the north empties -itself into the Columbia, near the head of Whitebrant island. It is -about eighty yards wide, and at present discharges a large body of very -clear water, which near the Columbia overflows its low banks, and forms -several large ponds. The natives inform us that this river is of no -great extent, and rises in the mountains near us, and that at a mile -from its mouth it is divided into two nearly equal branches, both of -which are incapable of being navigated, on account of their numerous -falls and rapids. Not being able to learn any Indian name, we called -it Seal river, from the abundance of those animals near its mouth. At -the same place we saw a summer duck, or a wood duck, as it is sometimes -called; it is the same with those of the United States, and the first -we had seen since entering the Rocky mountains last summer. - -The hunters who had been obliged to halt below Seal river on account -of the waves being too high for their small canoe, returned after dark -with the unwelcome news that game was scarce in that quarter. - -Tuesday, April 1. Three Indians had followed us yesterday, and encamped -near us last night. On putting to them a variety of questions relative -to their country, they assured us that Quicksand river, which we had -hitherto deemed so considerable, extends no further than the southwest -side of mount Hood, which is south 85° east, forty miles distant from -this place; that it is moreover navigable for a very short distance -only, in consequence of falls and rapids, and that no nation inhabits -its borders. Several other persons affirmed that it rose near mount -Hood, and sergeant Pryor, who was sent for the purpose of examining -it, convinced us of the truth of their statement. He had found the -river three hundred yards wide, though the channel was not more than -fifty yards, and about six feet deep. The current was rapid, the water -turbid, the bed of the river is formed entirely of quicksand, and the -banks low and at present overflowed. He passed several islands, and at -three and a half miles distance a creek from the south, fifty yards -wide; his farthest course was six miles from the mouth of the river, -but there it seemed to bend to the east, and he heard the noise of -waterfalls. If Quicksand river then does not go beyond mount Hood, it -must leave the valley a few miles from its entrance, and run nearly -parallel with the Columbia. There must therefore be some other large -river, which we have not yet seen, to water the extensive country -between the mountains of the coast and Quicksand river; but the Indians -could give us no satisfactory information of any such stream. - -Whilst we were making these inquiries, a number of canoes came to us, -and among the rest a number of families were descending the river. -They told us that they lived at the Great rapids, but that a great -scarcity of provisions there, had induced them to come down in hopes -of finding subsistence in this fertile valley. All those who lived at -the rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress -for want of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish, -and not expecting the return of the salmon before the next full -moon, which will happen on the second of May: this intelligence was -disagreeable and embarrassing. From the falls to the Chopunnish nation, -the plains afford no deer, elk, or antelope, on which we can rely for -subsistence. The horses are very poor at this season, and the dogs must -be in the same condition if their food the fish have failed, so that -we had calculated entirely on purchasing fish. On the other hand it -is obviously inexpedient to wait for the return of the salmon, since -in that case we might not reach the Missouri before the ice would -prevent our navigating it. We might besides hazard the loss of our -horses, for the Chopunnish, with whom we left them, intend crossing -the mountains as early as possible, which is about the beginning of -May, and they would take our horses with them, or suffer them to -disperse, in either of which cases the passage of the mountains will be -almost impracticable. We therefore, after much deliberation, decided -to remain here till we collect meat enough to last us till we reach -the Chopunnish nation, to obtain canoes from the natives as we ascend, -either in exchange for our periougues, or by purchasing them with skins -and merchandise. These canoes may in turn be exchanged for horses with -the natives of the plains, till we obtain enough to travel altogether -by land. On reaching the southeast branch of the Columbia, four or five -men shall be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses in readiness, -and thus we shall have a stock of horses sufficient to transport our -baggage and to supply us with provisions, for we now perceive that they -will form our only certain resource for food. - -The hunters returned from the opposite side of the river with some deer -and elk, which were abundant there, as were also the tracks of the -black bear; while on the north side we could kill nothing. - -In the course of our dealings to-day we purchased a canoe from an -Indian, for which we gave six fathom of wampum beads. He seemed -perfectly satisfied and went away, but returned soon after, cancelled -the bargain, and giving back the wampum requested that we would restore -him the canoe. To this we consented, as we knew this method of trading -to be very common and deemed perfectly fair. - -Wednesday, 2. Being now determined to collect as much meat as possible, -two parties, consisting of nine men, were sent over the river to hunt, -three were ordered to range the country on this side, while all the -rest were employed in cutting and scaffolding the meat which we had -already. About eight o’clock several canoes arrived to visit us, and -among the rest were two young men, who were pointed out as Cashooks. -On inquiry, they said that their nation resided at the falls of a large -river, which empties itself into the south side of the Columbia, a few -miles below us, and they drew a map of the country, with a coal on a -mat. In order to verify this information, captain Clarke persuaded one -of the young men, by a present of a burning-glass, to accompany him to -the river, in search of which he immediately set out with a canoe and -seven of our men. After his departure other canoes arrived from above, -bringing families of women and children, who confirmed the accounts -of a scarcity of provisions. One of these families, consisting of ten -or twelve persons, encamped near us, and behaved perfectly well. The -hunters on this side of the river, returned with the skins of only two -deer, the animals being too poor for use. - -Thursday, 3. A considerable number of Indians crowded us to-day, many -of whom came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches -confirm the reports of scarcity among the nations above; which, indeed, -their appearance sufficiently prove, for they seem almost starved, and -greedily pick the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. - -In the evening captain Clarke returned from his excursion. On setting -out yesterday at half past eleven o’clock, he directed his course along -the south side of the river, where, at the distance of eight miles, -he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the Eloot -nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind Diamond -island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times along the -northern shore. He continued till three o’clock, when he landed at the -single house already mentioned, as the only remains of a village of -twenty-four straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers of small -canoes for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Shahalas, who -visit the place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are -part of the Neerchokioo tribe of the same nation. On entering one of -the apartments of the house, captain Clarke offered several articles -to the Indians, in exchange for wappatoo, but they appeared sullen -and ill-humoured, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat down -by the fire, opposite to the men, and taking a port-fire match from -his pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame, at the same time -took his pocket compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to -be in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match -now took fire, and burned violently, on which, the Indians terrified at -this strange exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo, -and laid it at his feet, begging him to put out the bad fire: while -an old woman continued to speak with great vehemence, as if praying -and imploring protection. Having received the roots, captain Clarke -put up the compass, and as the match went out of itself, tranquillity -was restored, though the women and children still took refuge in their -beds, and behind the men. He now paid them for what he had used, and -after lighting his pipe, and smoking with them, he continued down the -river. He now found what we had called Image-canoe island, to consist -of three islands, the one in the middle concealing the opening between -the other two in such a way, as to present to us on the opposite side -of the river, the appearance of a single island. At the lower point of -the third, and thirteen miles below the last village, he entered the -mouth of a large river, which was concealed by three small islands in -its mouth, from those who descend or go up the Columbia. This river, -which the Indians call Multnomah, from a nation of the same name, -residing near it on Wappatoo island, enters the Columbia, one hundred -and forty miles from the mouth of the latter river, of which it may -justly be considered as forming one fourth, though it had now fallen -eighteen inches below its greatest annual height. From its entrance -mount Regnier bears nearly north, mount St. Helen’s north, with a very -high humped mountain a little to the east of it, which seems to lie -in the same chain with the conic-pointed mountains before mentioned. -Mount Hood bore due east, and captain Clarke now discovered to the -southeast, a mountain which we had not yet seen, and to which he gave -the name of mount Jefferson. Like mount St. Helen’s its figure is a -regular cone covered with snow, and is probably of equal height with -that mountain, though being more distant, so large a portion of it -does not appear above the range of mountains which lie between these -and this point. Soon after entering the Multnomah he was met by an old -Indian descending the river alone in a canoe. After some conversation -with him, the pilot informed captain Clarke, that this old man belonged -to the Clackamos nation, who reside on a river forty miles up the -Multnomah. The current of this latter river, is as gentle as that of -the Columbia, its surface is smooth and even, and it appears to possess -water enough for the largest ship, since, on sounding with a line -of five fathoms, he could find no bottom for at least one third of -the width of the stream. At the distance of seven miles, he passed a -sluice or opening, on the right, eighty yards wide, and which separates -Wappatoo island from the continent, by emptying itself into the inlet -below. Three miles further up, he reached a large wooden house, on the -east side, where he intended to sleep, but on entering the rooms he -found such swarms of fleas that he preferred lying on the ground in the -neighbourhood. The guide informed him that this house is the temporary -residence of the Nemalquinner tribe of the Cushook nation, who reside -just below the falls of the Multnomah, but come down here occasionally -to collect wappatoo: it was thirty feet long, and forty deep; built -of broad boards, covered with the bark of white cedar; the floor on -a level with the surface of the earth, and the arrangement of the -interior like those near the seacoast. The inhabitants had left their -canoes, matts, bladders, train-oil, baskets, bowls, and trenchers, -lying about the house at the mercy of every visiter; a proof, indeed, -of the mutual respect for the property of each other, though we have -had very conclusive evidence that the property of white men is not -deemed equally sacred. The guide informed him further, that a small -distance above were two bayous, on which were a number of small houses -belonging to the Cushooks, but that the inhabitants had all gone up to -the falls of the Multnomah, for the purpose of fishing. Early the next -morning captain Clarke proceeded up the river, which, during the night, -had fallen about five inches. At the distance of two miles he came -to the centre of a bend under the highlands on the right side, from -which its course, as could be discerned, was to the east of southeast. -At this place the Multnomah is five hundred yards wide, and for half -that distance across, the cord of five fathoms would not reach the -bottom. It appears to be washing away its banks, and has more sandbars -and willow points than the Columbia. Its regular gentle current, the -depth and smoothness, and uniformity with which it rolls its vast body -of water, prove that its supplies are at once distant and regular; -nor, judging from its appearance and courses, is it rash to believe -that the Multnomah and its tributary streams water the vast extent of -country between the western mountains and those of the seacoast, as far -perhaps as the waters of the gulf of California. About eleven o’clock -he reached the house of the Neerchokioo, which he now found to contain -eight families; but they were all so much alarmed at his presence, -notwithstanding his visit yesterday, that he remained a very few -minutes only. Soon after setting out, he met five canoes filled with -the same number of families, belonging to the Shahala nation. They were -descending the river in search of subsistence, and seemed very desirous -of coming alongside of the boat; but as there were twenty-one men on -board, and the guide said that all these Shahalas, as well as their -relations at the house which we had just left, were mischievous bad -men, they were not suffered to approach. At three o’clock he halted for -an hour at the Nechecolee house, where his guide resided. This large -building is two hundred and twenty-six feet in front, entirely above -ground, and may be considered as a single house, because the whole is -under one roof; otherwise it would seem more like a range of buildings, -as it is divided into seven distinct apartments, each thirty feet -square, by means of broad boards set on end from the floor to the roof. -The apartments are separated from each other by a passage or alley four -feet wide, extending through the whole depth of the house, and the only -entrance is from this alley, through a small hole about twenty-two -inches wide, and not more than three feet high. The roof is formed -of rafters and round poles laid on them longitudinally. The whole is -covered with a double row of the bark of the white cedar, extending -from the top eighteen inches over the eaves, and secured as well as -smoothed by splinters of dried fir, inserted through it at regular -distances. In this manner the roof is made light, strong, and durable. -Near this house are the remains of several other large buildings, sunk -in the ground and constructed like those we had seen at the great -narrows of the Columbia, belonging to the Eloots, with whom these -people claim an affinity. In manners and dress these Nechecolees differ -but little from the Quathlapotles and others of this neighborhood; but -their language is the same used by the Eloots, and though it has some -words in common with the dialects spoken here, yet the whole air of -the language is obviously different. The men too are larger, and both -sexes better formed than among the nations below; and the females are -distinguished by wearing larger and longer robes, which are generally -of deer skin dressed in the hair, than the neighbouring women. In the -house were several old people of both sexes, who were treated with much -respect, and still seemed healthy, though most of them were perfectly -blind. On inquiring the cause of the decline of their village, an old -man, the father of the guide, and a person of some distinction, brought -forward a woman very much marked with the small-pox, and said, that -when a girl she was very near dying with the disorder which had left -those marks, and that all the inhabitants of the houses now in ruins -had fallen victims to the same disease. From the apparent age of the -woman, connected with her size at the time of her illness, captain -Clarke judged that the sickness must have been about thirty years ago, -the period about which we have supposed that the small-pox prevailed on -the seacoast. - -He then entered into a long conversation with regard to all the -adjacent country and its inhabitants, which the old man explained with -great intelligence, and then drew with his finger in the dust a sketch -of the Multnomah, and Wappatoo island. This captain Clarke copied -and preserved. He now purchased five dogs, and taking leave of the -Nechecolee village, returned to camp. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - Description of Wappatoo island, and the mode in which - the nations gather wappatoo--the character of the soil - and its productions--the numerous tribes residing in its - vicinity--the probability that they were all of the tribe - of the Multnomahs originally, inferred from similarity of - dress, manners, language, &c.--description of their dress, - weapons of war, their mode of burying the dead--description of - another village, called the Wahelellah village--their mode of - architecture--extraordinary height of Beacon rock--Unfriendly - character of the Indians at that place--The party, alarmed - for their safety, resolve to inflict summary vengeance, - in case the Wahelellah tribe persist in their outrages - and insults--interview with the chief of that tribe, and - confidence restored--difficulty of drawing the canoes over the - rapids--visited by a party of the Yehugh tribe--short notice of - the Weocksockwillackum tribe--curious phenomenon observed in - the Columbia, from the Rapids to the Chilluckittequaws. - - -Friday, April 4, 1804. The hunters were still out in every direction. -Those from the opposite side of the river returned with the flesh of a -bear and some venison, but the flesh of six deer and an elk which they -had killed was so meagre and unfit for use, that they had left it in -the woods. Two other deer were brought in, but as the game seemed poor, -we despatched a large party to some low grounds on the south, six miles -above us, to hunt there until our arrival. As usual many of the Indians -came to our camp, some descending the rivers with their families, and -others from below with no object except to gratify their curiosity. - -The visit of captain Clarke to the Multnomahs, now enabled us to -combine all that we had seen or learnt of the neighbouring countries -and nations. Of these the most important spot is Wappatoo island, a -large extent of country lying between the Multnomah, and an arm of the -Columbia, which we have called Wappatoo inlet, and separated from the -main land by a sluice eighty yards wide, which at the distance of -seven miles up the Multnomah connects that river with the inlet. The -island thus formed is about twenty miles long, and varies in breadth -from five to ten miles: the land is high and extremely fertile, and -on most parts is supplied with a heavy growth of cottonwood, ash, the -large-leafed ash, and sweet-willow, the black alder, common to the -coast, having now disappeared. But the chief wealth of this island -consists of the numerous ponds in the interior, abounding with the -common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) to the root of which is -attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. This bulb, to which the -Indians give the name of wappatoo, is the great article of food, and -almost the staple article of commerce on the Columbia. It is never out -of season; so that at all times of the year, the valley is frequented -by the neighbouring Indians who come to gather it. It is collected -chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose canoes from ten to -fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide, and nine inches deep, and -tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty inches wide. They -are sufficient to contain a single person and several bushels of roots, -yet so very light that a woman can carry them with ease; she takes one -of these canoes into a pond where the water is as high as the breast, -and by means of her toes, separates from the root this bulb, which on -being freed from the mud rises immediately to the surface of the water, -and is thrown into the canoe. In this manner these patient females -remain in the water for several hours even in the depth of winter. This -plant is found through the whole extent of the valley in which we now -are, but does not grow on the Columbia farther eastward. This valley is -bounded westward by the mountainous country bordering the coast, from -which it extends eastward thirty miles in a direct line, till it is -closed by the range of mountains crossing the Columbia above the great -falls. Its length from north to south we are unable to determine, but -we believe that the valley must extend to a great distance: it is in -fact the only desirable situation for a settlement on the western side -of the Rocky mountains, and being naturally fertile, would, if properly -cultivated, afford subsistence for forty or fifty thousand souls. -The highlands are generally of a dark rich loam, not much injured by -stones, and though waving, by no means too steep for cultivation, and -a few miles from the river they widen at least on the north side, into -rich extensive prairies. The timber on them is abundant, and consists -almost exclusively of the several species of fir already described, -and some of which grow to a great height. We measured a fallen tree of -that species, and found that including the stump of about six feet, -it was three hundred and eighteen feet in length, though its diameter -was only three feet. The dogwood is also abundant on the uplands; it -differs from that of the United States in having a much smoother bark, -and in being much larger, the trunk attaining a diameter of nearly two -feet. There is some white cedar of a large size, but no pine of any -kind. In the bottom lands are the cottonwood ash, large leafed ash, and -sweet willow. Interspersed with those are the pashequaw, shanataque, -and compound fern, of which the natives use the roots; the red -flowering current abounds on the upland, while along the river bottoms -grow luxuriantly the watercress, strawberry, cinquefoil, narrowdock, -sand-rush, and the flowering pea, which is not yet in bloom. There is -also a species of the bear’s-claw now blooming, but the large leafed -thorn has disappeared, nor do we see any longer the huckleberry, the -shallun, nor any of the other evergreen shrubs which bear berries, -except the species, the leaf of which has a prickly margin. - -Among the animals, we observe the martin, small geese, the small -speckled woodpecker, with a white back, the blue-crested corvus, -ravens, crows, eagles, vultures, and hawks. The mellow bug, long-legged -spider, as well as the butterfly and blowingfly, and tick, have already -made their appearance, but none of all these are distinguished from -animals of the same sort in the United States. The musquetoes too have -resumed their visits, but are not yet troublesome. - -The nations who inhabit this fertile neighbourhood are very numerous. -The Wappatoo inlet extends three hundred yards wide, for ten or -twelve miles to the south, as far as the hills near which it receives -the waters of a small creek whose sources are not far from those of -the Killamuck river. On that creek resides the Clackstar nation, a -numerous people of twelve hundred souls, who subsist on fish and -wappatoo, and who trade by means of the Killamuck river, with the -nation of that name on the seacoast. Lower down the inlet, towards the -Columbia, is the tribe called Cathlacumup. On the sluice which connects -the inlet with the Multnomah, are the tribes, Cathlanahquiah, and -Cathlacomatup: and on Wappatoo island, the tribes of Clannahminamun, -and Clahnaquah. Immediately opposite, near the Towahnahiooks, are -the Quathlapotles, and higher up on the side of the Columbia, the -Shotos. All these tribes, as well as the Cathlahaws, who live somewhat -lower on the river, and have an old village on Deer island, may be -considered as parts of the great Multnomah nation, which has its -principal residence on Wappatoo island, near the mouth of the large -river to which they give their name. Forty miles above its junction -with the Columbia, it receives the waters of the Clackamos, a river -which may be traced through a woody and fertile country to its sources -in mount Jefferson, almost to the foot of which it is navigable for -canoes. A nation of the same name resides in eleven villages along -its borders: they live chiefly on fish and roots, which abound in -the Clackamos and along its banks, though they sometimes descend to -the Columbia to gather wappatoo, where they cannot be distinguished -by dress or manners, or language from the tribes of Multnomahs. Two -days’ journey from the Columbia, or about twenty miles beyond the -entrance of the Clackamos, are the falls of the Multnomah. At this -place are the permanent residences of the Cushooks and Chahcowahs, -two tribes who are attracted to that place by the fish, and by the -convenience of trading across the mountains and down Killamuck river, -with the nation of Killamucks, from whom they procure train oil. These -falls were occasioned by the passage of a high range of mountains; -beyond which the country stretches into a vast level plain, wholly -destitute of timber. As far as the Indians, with whom we conversed, -had ever penetrated that country, it was inhabited by a nation called -Calahpoewah, a very numerous people whose villages, nearly forty in -number, are scattered along each side of the Multnomah, which furnish -them with their chief subsistence, fish, and the roots along its banks. - -All the tribes in the neighbourhood of Wappatoo island, we have -considered as Multnomahs; not because they are in any degree -subordinate to that nation; but they all seem to regard the Multnomahs -as the most powerful. There is no distinguished chief, except the -one at the head of the Multnomahs; and they are moreover linked by a -similarity of dress and manners, and houses and language, which much -more than the feeble restraints of Indian government contribute to make -one people. These circumstances also separate them from nations lower -down the river. The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Wahkiacums and Cathlamahs -understand each other perfectly; their language varies, however, -in some respects from that of the Skilloots; but on reaching the -Multnomah Indians, we found that although many words were the same, -and a great number differed only in the mode of accenting them, from -those employed by the Indians near the mouth of the Columbia, yet there -was a very sensible variation of language. The natives of the valley -are larger and rather better shaped than those of the seacoast: their -appearance too is generally healthy, but they are afflicted with the -common disease of the Columbia, soreness of the eyes. To whatever -this disorder may be imputed it is a great national calamity: at all -ages their eyes are sore and weak, and the loss of one eye is by no -means uncommon, while in grown persons total blindness is frequent, -and almost universal in old age. The dress of the men has nothing -different from that used below, but are chiefly remarked by a passion -for large brass buttons, which they fix on a sailor’s jacket, when they -are so fortunate as to obtain one, without regard to any arrangement. -The women also wear the short robe already described; but their hair -is most commonly braided into two tresses falling over each ear in -front of the body, and instead of the tissue of bark, they employ a -piece of leather in the shape of a pocket handkerchief tied round the -loins. This last is the only and ineffectual defence when the warmth -of the weather induces them to throw aside the robe. The houses are in -general on a level with the ground, though some are sunk to the depth -of two or three feet into the ground, and like those near the coast -adorned or disfigured by carvings or paintings on the posts, doors and -beds: they do not possess any peculiar weapon except a kind of broad -sword made of iron, from three to four feet long, the blade about four -inches wide, very thin and sharp at all its edges, as well as at the -point. They have also bludgeons of wood in the same form; and both -kinds generally hang at the head of their beds. These are formidable -weapons. Like the natives of the seacoast, they are also very fond of -cold, hot, and vapour baths, which are used at all seasons, and for the -purpose of health as well as pleasure. They, however, add a species of -bath peculiar to themselves, by washing the whole body with urine every -morning. - -The mode of burying the dead in canoes, is no longer practised by -the natives here. The place of deposit is a vault formed of boards, -slanting like the roof of a house from a pole supported by two forks. -Under this vault the dead are placed horizontally on boards, on the -surface of the earth, and carefully covered with mats. Many bodies -are here laid on each other, to the height of three or four corpses, -and different articles, which were most esteemed by the dead, are -placed by their side; their canoes themselves being sometimes broken to -strengthen the vault. - -The trade of all these inhabitants is in anchovies, sturgeon, but -chiefly in wappatoo, to obtain which, the inhabitants both above and -below them on the river, come at all seasons, and supply in turn, -beads, cloth, and various other articles procured from the Europeans. - -Saturday, April 5. We dried our meat as well as the cloudy weather -would permit. In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men who -killed the bear, found a nest of another with three cubs in it. He -returned to-day in hopes of finding her, but he brought only the cubs, -without being able to see the dam, and on this occasion, Drewyer, our -most experienced huntsman, assured us that he had never known a single -instance where a female bear, who had once been disturbed by a hunter -and obliged to leave her young, returned to them again. The young -bears were sold for wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited -us in parties during the day, and behaved very well. Having made our -preparations of dried meat, we set out next morning, - -Sunday 6, by nine o’clock, and continued along the north side of the -river for a few miles, and then crossed to the river to look for the -hunters, who had been sent forward the day before yesterday. We found -them at the upper end of the bottom with some Indians, for we are never -freed from the visits of the natives. They had killed three elk, and -wounded two others so badly, that it was still possible to get them. We -therefore landed, and having prepared scaffolds and secured the five -elk, we encamped for the night, and the following evening, - -Monday 7, the weather having been fair and pleasant, had dried a -sufficient quantity of meat to serve us as far as the Chopunnish, -with occasional supplies, if we can procure them, of dogs, roots, and -horses. In the course of the day several parties of Shahalas, from a -village eight miles above us, came to visit us, and behaved themselves -very properly, except that we were obliged to turn one of them from the -camp for stealing a piece of lead. Every thing was now ready for our -departure, but in the morning, - -Tuesday 8, the wind blew with great violence, and we were obliged to -unload our boats, which were soon after filled with water. The same -cause prevented our setting out to-day; we therefore despatched several -hunters round the neighbourhood, but in the evening they came back with -nothing but a duck. They had, however, seen some of the black-tailed, -jumping, or fallow deer, like those about fort Clatsop, which are -scarce near this place, where the common long-tailed fallow deer -are most abundant. They had also observed two black bears, the only -kind that we have discovered in this quarter. A party of six Indians -encamped at some distance, and late at night the sentinel stopped one -of the men, an old man who was creeping into camp in order to pilfer: -he contented himself with frightening the Indian, and then giving -him a few stripes with a switch, turned the fellow out, and he soon -afterwards left the place with all his party. - -Wednesday, 9. The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes, -and set out by seven o’clock. We stopped to take up two hunters who -had left us yesterday, but were unsuccessful in the chase, and then -proceeded to the Wahelellah village, situated on the north side of the -river, about a mile below Beacon rock. During the whole of the route -from our camp, we passed along under high, steep, and rocky sides of -the mountains, which now close on each side of the river, forming -stupendous precipices, covered with the fir and white cedar. Down -these heights frequently descend the most beautiful cascades, one of -which, a large creek, throws itself over a perpendicular rock three -hundred feet above the water, while other smaller streams precipitate -themselves from a still greater elevation, and evaporating in a mist, -again collect and form a second cascade before they reach the bottom -of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at this village. We here found -the tomahawk which had been stolen from us on the fourth of last -November: they assured us they had bought it of the Indians below; but -as the latter had already informed us that the Wahelellahs had such an -article, which they had stolen, we made no difficulty about retaking -our property. This village appears to be the wintering station of the -Wahelellahs and Clahelellahs, two tribes of the Shahala nation. The -greater part of the first tribe have lately removed to the falls of -the Multnomah, and the second have established themselves a few miles -higher up the Columbia, opposite the lower point of Brant island, where -they take salmon, that being the commencement of the rapids. They are -now in the act of removing, and carrying off with them, not only the -furniture and effects, but the bark and most of the boards of their -houses. In this way nine have been lately removed. There are still -fourteen standing, and in the rear of the village are the traces of ten -or twelve others of more ancient date. These houses are either sunk -in the ground or on a level with the surface, and are generally built -of boards and covered with cedar bark. In the single houses there is -generally a division near the door, which is in the end; or in case -the house be double, opens on the narrow passage between the two. Like -those we had seen below at the Neerehokioo tribe, the women wear longer -and larger robes than their neighbours the Multnomahs, and suspend -various ornaments from the cartilage of the nose: the hair is, however, -worn in the same sort of braid, falling over each ear, and the truss is -universal from the Wappatoo island to Lewis’s river. The men also form -their hair into two queues by means of otter skin thongs, which fall -over the ears so as to give that extraordinary width to the face which -is here considered so ornamental. These people seemed very unfriendly, -and our numbers alone seemed to secure us from ill treatment. While -we were at breakfast the grand chief of the Chilluckittequaws arrived, -with two inferior chiefs, and several men and women of his nation. -They were returning home, after trading in the Columbian valley, -and were loaded with wappatoo and dried anchovies, which, with some -beads, they had obtained in exchange for chappelell, bear-grass and -other small articles. As these people had been very kind to us as we -descended the river, we endeavoured to repay them by every attention -in our power. After purchasing, with much difficulty, a few dogs and -some wappatoo from the Wahelellahs, we left them at two o’clock, and -passing under the Beacon rock, reached in two hours the Clahelellah -village. This Beacon rock, which we now observed more accurately than -as we descended, stands on the north side of the river, insulated from -the hills. The northern side has a partial growth of fir or pine. To -the south it rises in an unbroken precipice to the height of seven -hundred feet, where it terminates in a sharp point, and may be seen -at the distance of twenty miles below. This rock may be considered as -the commencement of tide-water, though the influence of the tide is -perceptible here in autumn only, at which time the water is low. What -the precise difference at those seasons is, we cannot determine; but on -examining a rock which we lately passed, and comparing its appearance -now with that which we observed last November, we judge the flood of -this spring to be twelve feet above the height of the river at that -time. From Beacon rock as low as the marshy islands, the general width -of the river is from one to two miles, though in many places it is -still greater. On landing at the Clahelellahs we found them busy in -erecting their huts, which seem to be of a temporary kind only, so that -most probably they do not remain longer than the salmon season. Like -their countrymen, whom we had just left, these people were sulky and -ill-humoured, and so much on the alert to pilfer, that we were obliged -to keep them at a distance from our baggage. As our large canoes could -not ascend the rapids on the north side, we passed to the opposite -shore, and entered the narrow channel which separates it from Brant -island. The weather was very cold and rainy, and the wind so high, -that we were afraid to attempt the rapids this evening, and therefore, -finding a safe harbour, we encamped for the night. The wood in this -neighbourhood has lately been on fire, and the firs have discharged -considerable quantities of pitch, which we collected for some of our -boats. We saw to-day some turkey-buzzards, which are the first we have -observed on this side of the Rocky mountains. - -Thursday, 10. Early in the morning we dropped down the channel to the -lower end of Brant Island, and then drew our boats up the rapid. At -the distance of a quarter of a mile we crossed over to a village of -Clahelellahs, consisting of six houses, on the opposite side. The river -is here about four hundred yards wide, and the current so rapid, that -although we employed five oars for each canoe, we were borne down a -considerable distance. While we were at breakfast, one of the Indians -offered us two sheep-skins for sale, one, which was the skin of a full -grown sheep, was as large as that of a common deer: the second was -smaller, and the skin of the head, with the horns remaining, was made -into a cap, and highly prized as an ornament by the owner. He however -sold the cap to us for a knife, and the rest of the skin for those of -two elk; but as they observed our anxiety to purchase the other skin, -they would not accept the same price for it, and as we hoped to procure -more in the neighbourhood, we did not offer a greater. The horns of the -animal were black, smooth, and erect, and they rise from the middle -of the forehead, a little above the eyes, in a cylindrical form, to -the height of four inches, where they are pointed. The Clahelellahs -informed us that the sheep are very abundant on the heights, and -among the cliffs of the adjacent mountains; and that these two had -been lately killed out of a herd of thirty-six, at no great distance -from the village. We were soon joined by our hunters with three -black-tailed fallow deer, and having purchased a few white salmon, -proceeded on our route. The south side of the river is impassible, and -the rapidity of the current as well as the large rocks along the shore, -render the navigation of even the north side extremely difficult. -During the greater part of the day it was necessary to draw them along -the shore, and as we have only a single tow-rope that is strong enough, -we are obliged to bring them one after the other. In this tedious and -laborious manner, we at length reached the portage on the north side, -and carried our baggage to the top of a hill, about two hundred paces -distant, where we encamped for the night. The canoes were drawn on -shore and secured, but one of them having got loose, drifted down to -the last village, the inhabitants of which brought her back to us; an -instance of honesty which we rewarded with a present of two knives. It -rained all night and the next morning, - -Friday, 11, so that the tents, and skins which covered the baggage, -were wet. We therefore determined to take the canoes first over the -portage, in hopes that by the afternoon the rain would cease, and we -might carry our baggage across without injury. This was immediately -begun by almost the whole party, who in the course of the day dragged -four of the canoes to the head of the rapids, with great difficulty -and labour. A guard, consisting of one sick man and three who had been -lamed by accidents, remained with captain Lewis to guard the baggage. -This precaution was absolutely necessary to protect it from the -Wahelellahs, whom we discovered to be great thieves, notwithstanding -their apparent honesty in restoring our boat: indeed, so arrogant -and intrusive have they become, that nothing but our numbers, we are -convinced, saves us from attack. They crowded about us while we were -taking up the boats, and one of them had the insolence to throw stones -down the bank at two of our men. We found it necessary to depart -from our mild and pacific course of conduct. On returning to the -head of the portage, many of them met our men, and seemed very ill -disposed. Shields had stopped to purchase a dog, and being separated -from the rest of the party, two Indians pushed him out of the road, -and attempted to take the dog from him. He had no weapon but a long -knife, with which he immediately attacked them both, hoping to put -them to death before they had time to draw their arrows, but as soon -as they saw his design, they fled into the woods. Soon afterwards -we were told by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, which we had ourselves -learnt during the winter, that the Wahelellahs had carried off captain -Lewis’s dog to their village below. Three men well armed were instantly -despatched in pursuit of them, with orders to fire if there was the -slightest resistance or hesitation. At the distance of two miles, they -came within sight of the thieves, who finding themselves pursued, -left the dog and made off. We now ordered all the Indians out of our -camp, and explained to them, that whoever stole any of our baggage, -or insulted our men, should be instantly shot; a resolution which we -were determined to enforce, as it was now our only means of safety. We -were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahelellahs, who seemed -mortified at the behaviour of the Indians, and told us that the persons -at the head of their outrages were two very bad men, who belonged to -the Wahelellah tribe, but that the nation did not by any means wish to -displease us. This chief seemed very well disposed, and we had every -reason to believe was much respected by the neighbouring Indians. We -therefore gave him a small medal, and showed him all the attentions in -our power, with which he appeared very much gratified, and we trust -his interposition may prevent the necessity of our resorting to force -against his countrymen. - -Many Indians from the villages above, passed us in the course of the -day, on their return from trading with the natives of the valley, and -among others, we recognised an Eloot, who with ten or twelve of his -nation were on their way home to the long narrows of the Columbia. -These people do not, as we are compelled to do, drag their canoes up -the rapids, but leave them at the head, as they descend, and carrying -their goods across the portage, hire or borrow others from the people -below. When the trade is over they return to the foot of the rapids, -where they leave these boats and resume their own at the head of the -portage. The labour of carrying the goods across is equally shared -by the men and women, and we were struck by the contrast between the -decent conduct of all the natives from above, and the profligacy and -ill manners of the Wahelellahs. About three quarters of a mile below -our camp is a burial ground, which seems common to the Wahelellahs, -Clahelellahs, and Yehhuhs. It consists of eight sepulchres on the north -bank of the river. - -Saturday 12. The rain continued all night and this morning. Captain -Lewis now took with him all the men fit for duty, and began to drag the -remaining periogue over the rapids. This has become much more difficult -than when we passed in the autumn; at that time there were in the whole -distance of seven miles only three difficult points; but the water is -now considerably higher, and during all that distance the ascent is -exceedingly laborious and dangerous, nor would it be practicable to -descend, except by letting down the empty boats by means of ropes. -The route over this part, from the head to the foot of the portage, -is about three miles: the canoes which had been already dragged up -were very much injured, by being driven against the rocks, which no -precautions could prevent. This morning as we were drawing the fifth -canoe round a projecting rock, against which the current sets with -great violence, she unfortunately offered too much of her side to the -stream. It then drove her with such force, that with all the exertions -of the party we were unable to hold her, and were forced to let go the -cord, and see her drift down the stream, and be irrecoverably lost. We -then began to carry our effects across the portage, but as all those -who had short rifles took them in order to repel any attack from the -Indians, it was not until five o’clock in the afternoon that the -last of the party reached the head of the rapids, accompanied by our -new friend the Wahelellah chief. The afternoon being so far advanced, -and the weather rainy and cold, we determined to halt for the night, -though very desirous of going on, for during the three last days we -have not advanced more than seven miles. The portage is two thousand -eight hundred yards, along a narrow road, at all times rough, and now -rendered slippery by the rain. About half way is an old village which -the Clahelellah chief informs us is the occasional residence of his -tribe. These houses are uncommonly large, one of them measured one -hundred and sixty by forty feet, and the frames are constructed in -the usual manner, except that it is double so as to appear like one -house within another. The floors are on a level with the ground, and -the roofs have been taken down and sunk in a pond behind the village. -We find that our conduct yesterday has made the Indians much more -respectful; they do not crowd about us in such numbers, and behave with -much more propriety. Among those who visited us were about twenty of -the Yehhuhs, a tribe of Shahalas, whom we had found on the north side -the river, immediately above the rapids, but who had now emigrated -to the opposite shore, where they generally take salmon. Like their -relations the Wahelellahs, they have taken their houses with them, so -that only one is now standing where the old village was. We observe -generally, that the homes which have the floor on a level with the -earth, are smaller, and have more the appearance of being temporary -than those which are sunk in the ground, whence we presume that the -former are the dwellings during spring and summer, while the latter -are reserved for the autumn and winter. Most of the houses are built -of boards and covered with bark, though some of the more inferior kind -are constructed wholly of cedar bark, kept smooth and flat by small -splinters fixed crosswise through the bark, at the distance of twelve -or fourteen inches apart. There is but little difference in appearance -between these Yehhuhs, Wahelellahs, Clahelellahs, and Neerchokioos, -who compose the Shahala nation. On comparing the vocabulary of the -Wahelellahs with that of the Chinooks, we found that the names for -numbers were precisely the same, though the other parts of the language -were essentially different. The women of all these tribes braid their -hair, pierce the nose, and some of them have lines of dots reaching -from the ancle as high as the middle of the leg. These Yehhuhs behaved -with great propriety, and condemned the treatment we had received from -the Wahelellahs. We purchased from one of them the skin of a sheep -killed near this place, for which we gave in exchange the skins of -a deer and an elk. These animals, he tells us, usually frequent the -rocky parts of the mountains, where they are found in great numbers. -The bighorn is also an inhabitant of these mountains, and the natives -have several robes made of their skins. The mountains near this place -are high, steep, and strewed with rocks, which are principally black. -Several species of fir, white pine, and white cedar, forms their -covering, while near the river we see the cottonwood, sweet-willow, a -species of maple, the broad-leafed ash, the purple haw, a small species -of cherry, the purple currant, gooseberry, red-willow, the vining and -whiteberry honeysuckle, the huckleberry, sacacommis, two kinds of -mountain holly, and the common ash. - -Sunday 18. The loss of our periogue yesterday obliges us to distribute -our loading between the two canoes, and the two remaining periogues. -This being done, we proceeded along the north side of the river, but -soon finding that the increased loading rendered our vessels difficult -to manage, if not dangerous in case of high wind, the two periogues -only continued on their route, while captain Lewis with the canoes -crossed over to the Yehhuh village, with a view of purchasing one or -two more canoes. The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded -with inhabitants, and about sixty fighting men. They were very well -disposed, and we found no difficulty in procuring two small canoes, -in exchange for two robes and four elk skins. We also purchased with -deer skins, three dogs, an animal which has now become a favourite -food, for it is found to be a strong healthy diet, preferable to lean -deer or elk, and much superior to horse-flesh in any state. With these -he proceeded along the south side of the river, and joined us in the -evening. We had gone along the north shore as high as Cruzatte’s river, -to which place we had sent some hunters the day before yesterday, and -where we were detained by the high winds. The hunters however did not -join us, and we therefore, as soon as the wind had abated, proceeded on -for six miles, where we halted for Captain Lewis, and in the meantime -went out to hunt. We procured two black-tailed fallow deer which seem -to be the only kind inhabiting these mountains. Believing that the -hunters were still below us, we despatched a small canoe back for them, -and in the morning, - -April 14. they all joined us with four more deer. After breakfast we -resumed our journey, and though the wind was high during the day, yet -by keeping along the northern shore we were able to proceed without -danger. At one o’clock we halted for dinner at a large village situated -in a narrow bottom, just above the entrance of Canoe creek. The houses -are detached from each other, so as to occupy an extent of several -miles, though only twenty in number. Those which are inhabited are -on the surface of the earth, and built in the same shape as those -near the rapids; but there were others at present evacuated, which -are completely under ground. They are sunk about eight feet deep, and -covered with strong timbers, and several feet of earth in conical form. -On descending by means of a ladder through a hole at the top, which -answers the double purpose of a door and a chimney, we found that the -house consisted of a single room, nearly circular and about sixteen -feet in diameter. - -The inhabitants, who call themselves Weocksockwillacum, differ but -little from those near the rapids, the chief distinction in dress, -being a few leggings and moccasins, which we find here like those worn -by the Chopunnish. These people have ten or twelve very good horses, -which are the first we have seen since leaving this neighbourhood last -autumn. The country below is, indeed, of such a nature, as to prevent -the use of this animal, except in the Columbian valley, and there they -would be of great service, for the inhabitants reside chiefly on the -river side, and the country is too thickly wooded to suffer them to -hunt game on horseback. Most of these, they inform us, have been taken -in a warlike excursion, which was lately made against the Towanahiooks, -a part of the Snake nation living in the upper part of the Multnomah, -to the southeast of this place. Their language is the same with that of -the Chilluckittequaws. They seemed inclined to be very civil, and gave -us in exchange, some roots, shapelell, filberts, dried berries, and -five dogs. - -After dinner we proceeded, and passing at the distance of six miles, -the high cliffs on the left, encamped at the mouth of a small run on -the same side. A little above us is a village, consisting of about -one hundred fighting men of a tribe called Smackshops, many of whom -passed the evening with us: They do not differ in any respect from the -inhabitants of the village below. In hopes of purchasing horses we did -not set out the next morning, - -Tuesday 15, till after breakfast, and in the meantime exposed our -merchandise, and made them various offers; but as they declined -bartering, we left them and soon reached the Sepulchre rock, where we -halted a few minutes. The rock itself stands near the middle of the -river, and contains about two acres of ground above high water. On this -surface are scattered thirteen vaults, constructed like those below the -Rapids, and some of them more than half filled with dead bodies. After -satisfying our curiosity with these venerable remains, we returned -to the northern shore, and proceeded to a village at the distance of -four miles: on landing, we found that the inhabitants belonged to the -same nation we had just left, and as they also had horses, we made a -second attempt to purchase a few of them: but with all our dexterity in -exhibiting our wares, we could not induce them to sell, as we had none -of the only articles which they seemed desirous of procuring, a sort of -war hatchet, called by the northwest traders an eye-dog. We therefore -purchased two dogs, and taking leave of these Weocksockwillacums, -proceeded to another of their villages, just below the entrance of -Cataract river. Here too, we tried in vain to purchase some horses, nor -did we meet with more success at the two villages of Chilluckittequaws, -a few miles farther up the river. At three in the afternoon, we came -to the mouth of Quinett creek, which we ascended a short distance and -encamped for the night, at the spot we had called Rock fort. Here we -were soon visited by some of the people from the great narrows and -falls: and on our expressing a wish to purchase horses, they agreed to -meet us to-morrow on the north side of the river, where we would open -a traffic. They then returned to their villages to collect the horses, -and in the morning, - -Wednesday 16, captain Clarke crossed with nine men, and a large part -of the merchandise, in order to purchase twelve horses to transport -our baggage, and some pounded fish, as a reserve during the passage of -the Rocky mountains. The rest of the men were employed in hunting and -preparing saddles. - -From the rapids to this place, and indeed as far as the commencement -of the narrows, the Columbia is from half a mile to three quarters in -width, and possesses scarcely any current: its bed consists principally -of rock, except at the entrance of Labiche river, which takes its -rise in mount Hood, from which, like Quicksand river, it brings down -vast quantities of sand. During the whole course of the Columbia from -the Rapids to the Chilluckittequaws are the trunks of many large pine -trees standing erect in water, which is thirty feet deep at present, -and never less than ten. These trees could never have grown in their -present state, for they are all very much doated, and none of them -vegetate; so that the only reasonable account which can be given of -this phenomenon, is, that at some period, which the appearance of the -trees induces us to fix within twenty years, the rocks from the hill -sides have obstructed the narrow pass at the rapids, and caused the -river to spread through the woods. The mountains which border as far -as the Sepulchre rock, are high and broken, and its romantic views -occasionally enlivened by beautiful cascades rushing from the heights, -and forming a deep contrast with the firs, cedars and pines, which -darken their sides. From the Sepulchre rock, where the low country -begins, the long-leafed pine is the almost exclusive growth of timber; -but our present camp is the last spot where a single tree is to be -seen on the wide plains, which are now spread before us to the foot -of the Rocky mountains. It is however, covered with a rich verdure -of grass and herbs, some inches in height, which forms a delightful -and exhilarating prospect, after being confined to the mountains and -thick forests on the seacoast. The climate too, though only on the -border of the plains, is here very different from that we have lately -experienced. The air is drier and more pure, and the ground itself is -as free from moisture as if there had been no rain for the last ten -days. Around this place are many esculent plants used by the Indians: -among which is a currant, now in bloom, with a yellow blossom like -that of the yellow currant of the Missouri, from which however it -differs specifically. There is also a species of hyacinth growing in -the plains, which presents at this time a pretty flower of a pale blue -colour, and the bulb of which is boiled or baked, or dried in the sun, -and eaten by the Indians. This bulb, of the present year, is white, -flat in shape and not quite solid, and it overlays and presses closely -that of the last year, which, though much thinner and withered, is -equally wide, and sends forth from its sides a number of small radicles. - -Our hunters obtained one of the long-tailed deer with the young horns, -about two inches, and a large black or dark brown pheasant, such as -we had seen on the upper part of the Missouri. They also brought in -a large gray squirrel, and two others resembling it in shape, but -smaller than the common gray squirrel of the United States, and of a -pied gray and yellowish brown colour. In addition to this game, they -had seen some antelopes, and the tracks of several black bear, but no -appearance of elk. They had seen no birds, but found three eggs of the -party-coloured corvus. Though the salmon has not yet appeared, we have -seen less scarcity than we apprehended from the reports we had heard -below. At the rapids, the natives subsist chiefly on a few white salmon -trout, which they take at this time, and considerable quantities of -a small indifferent mullet of an inferior quality. Beyond that place -we see none except dried fish of the last season, nor is the sturgeon -caught by any of the natives above the Columbia, their whole stores -consisting of roots, and fish either dried or pounded. - -Captain Clarke had, in the meantime, been endeavouring to purchase -horses, without success, but they promised to trade with him if he -would go up to the Skilloot village, above the long narrows. He -therefore sent over to us for more merchandise, and then accompanied -them in the evening to that place, where he passed the night. The next -day, - -Thursday 17, he sent to inform us that he was still unable to purchase -any horses, but intended going as far as the Eneeshur village to-day, -whence he would return to meet us to-morrow at the Skilloot village. In -the evening the principal chief of the Chilluckittequaws came to see -us, accompanied by twelve of his nation, and hearing that we wanted -horses, he promised to meet us at the narrows with some for sale. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - Captain Clarke procures four horses for the transportation of - the baggage--some further account of the Skilloot tribe--their - joy at the first appearance of salmon in the Columbia--their - thievish propensities--the party arrive at the village of the - Eneeshurs, where the natives are found alike unfriendly--the - party now provided with horses--the party prevented from - the exercise of hostility against this nation by a friendly - adjustment--the scarcity of timber so great that they are - compelled to buy wood to cook their provisions--arrive at the - Wahhowpum village--dance of the natives--their ingenuity in - declining to purchase the canoes, on the supposition that the - party would be compelled to leave them behind defeated--the - party having obtained a complement of horses, proceed by - land--arrive at the Pishquitpah village, and some account of - that people--their frank and hospitable treatment from the - Wollawollahs--their mode of dancing described--their mode of - making fish-weirs--their amiable character, and their unusual - affection for the whites. - - -Friday, 18. We set out this morning after an early breakfast, and -crossing the river, continued along the north side for four miles, to -the foot of the first rapid. Here it was necessary to unload and make -a portage of seven paces over a rock, round which we then drew the -empty boats by means of a cord, and the assistance of setting poles. We -then reloaded, and at the distance of five miles, reached the basin at -the foot of the long narrows. After unloading and arranging the camp, -we went up to the Skilloot village, where we found captain Clarke. He -had not been able to procure more than four horses, for which he was -obliged to give double the price of those formerly purchased from the -Shoshonees and the first tribe of Flatheads. These, however, we hoped -might be sufficient with the aid of the small canoes to convey our -baggage as far as the villages near the Muscleshell rapid, where horses -are cheaper and more abundant, and where we may probably exchange the -canoes for as many horses as we want. The Skilloots, indeed, have a -number of horses, but they are unwilling to part with them, though at -last we laid out three parcels of merchandise, for each of which they -promised to bring us a horse in the morning. The long narrows have a -much more formidable appearance than when we passed them in the autumn, -so that it would, in fact, be impossible either to descend or go up -them in any kind of boat. As we had therefore no further use for the -two periogues, we cut them up for fuel, and early in the morning, - -Saturday 19, all the party began to carry the merchandise over the -portage. This we accomplished with the aid of our four horses, by three -o’clock in the afternoon, when we formed our camp a little above the -Skilloot village. Since we left them in the autumn they have removed -their village a few hundred yards lower down the river, and have -exchanged the cellars in which we then found them, for more pleasant -dwellings on the surface of the ground. These are formed by sticks, and -covered with mats and straw, and so large, that each is the residence -of several families. They are also much better clad than any of the -natives below, or than they were themselves last autumn; the dress of -the men consists generally of leggings, moccasins, and large robes, and -many of them wear shirts in the same form used by the Chopunnish and -Shoshonees, highly ornamented, as well as the leggings and moccasins, -with porcupine quills. Their modesty is protected by the skin of a fox -or some other animal, drawn under a girdle and hanging in front like -a narrow apron. The dress of the women differs but little from that -worn near the rapids; and both sexes wear the hair over the forehead -as low as the eyebrows, with large locks cut square at the ears, and -the rest hanging in two queues in front of the body. The robes are -made principally of the skins of deer, elk, bighorn, some wolf and -buffaloe, while the children use the skins of the large gray squirrel. -The buffaloe is procured from the nations higher up the river, who -occasionally visit the Missouri; indeed, the greater proportion of -their apparel is brought by the nations to the northwest, who come -to trade for pounded fish, copper, and beads. Their chief fuel is -straw, southern-wood, and small willows. The bear-grass, the bark of -the cedar, and the silk-grass are employed in various articles of -manufacture. - -The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day, at having caught a -single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities -in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival, the Indians -according to custom, dressed fish and cut it into small pieces, one -of which was given to each child in the village. In the good humour -excited by this occurrence, they parted, though reluctantly, with four -other horses, for which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a -single small one for a mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost -one of the horses by the negligence of the person to whose charge he -was committed. The rest were therefore hobbled and tied; but as the -nations here do not understand gelding, all the horses but one were -stallions, and this being the season when they are most vicious, we had -great difficulty in managing them, and were obliged to keep watch over -them all night. In the afternoon captain Clarke set out with four men -for the Eneeshur village at the grand falls, in order to make further -attempts to procure horses. - -Sunday, 20. As it was obviously our interest to preserve the good will -of these people, we passed over several small thefts which they have -committed, but this morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife -had been stolen during the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, -who seemed angry with his people and made a harangue to them, but we -did not recover the articles, and soon after, two of our spoons were -missing. We therefore ordered them all from our camp, threatening to -beat severely any one detected in purloining. This harshness irritated -them so much that they left us in an ill-humour, and we therefore -kept on our guard against any insult. Besides this knavery, the -faithlessness of the people is intolerable, frequently after receiving -goods in exchange for a horse, they return in a few hours and insist on -revoking the bargain, or receiving some additional value. We discovered -too, that the horse which was missing yesterday, had been gambled away -by the fellow from whom we had purchased him, to a man of a different -nation, who had carried him off. Besides these, we bought two more -horses, two dogs, and some chapelell, and also exchanged a couple of -elk skins for a gun belonging to the chief. This was all we could -obtain, for though they had a great abundance of dried fish, they would -not sell it, except at a price too exorbitant for our finances. We now -found that no more horses could be procured, and therefore prepared for -setting out to-morrow. One of the canoes, for which the Indians would -give us very little, was cut up for fuel, two others, together with -some elk skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads, and the -remaining two small canoes were despatched early next morning, - -Monday, 21, with all the baggage which could not be carried on -horseback. We had intended setting out at the same time, but one of our -horses broke loose during the night, and we were under the necessity of -sending several men in search of him. In the meantime, the Indians, who -were always on the alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, -though several of them were searched. Another fellow was detected in -carrying off a piece of iron, and kicked out of camp: captain Lewis -then, addressing the Indians, declared that he was not afraid to fight -them; for if he chose, he might easily put them to death, and burn -their village; that he did not wish to treat them ill if they did not -steal; and that although if he knew who had the tomahawks he would take -away the horses of the thieves, yet he would rather loose the property -altogether than take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs were -present at this harangue, hung their heads and made no reply. At ten -o’clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after, an Indian -who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came with -two horses, one of which he politely offered to carry our baggage. We -therefore loaded nine horses, and giving the tenth to Bratton, who was -still too sick to walk, about ten o’clock left the village of these -disagreeable people. At one o’clock we arrived at the village of the -Eneeshurs, where we found captain Clarke, who had been completely -unsuccessful in his attempts to purchase horses, the Eneeshurs being -quite as unfriendly as the Skilloots. Fortunately, however, the fellow -who had sold a horse, and afterwards lost him at gambling, belonged -to this village, and we insisted on taking the kettle and knife which -had been given to him for the horse, if he did not replace it by one -of equal value. He preferred the latter, and brought us a very good -horse. Being here joined by the canoes and baggage across the portage, -we halted half a mile above the town, and took dinner on some dogs, -after which we proceeded on about four miles and encamped at a village -of Eneeshurs, consisting of nine mat huts, a little below the mouth -of the Towahnahiooks. We obtained from these people a couple of dogs -and a small quantity of fuel, for which we were obliged to give a -higher price than usual. We also bought a horse with a back so much -injured, that he can scarcely be of much service to us, but the price -was some trifling articles, which in the United States would cost about -a dollar and a quarter. The dress, the manners, and the language of -the Eneeshurs differ in no respect from those of the Skilloots. Like -them too, these Eneeshurs are inhospitable and parsimonious, faithless -to their engagements, and in the midst of poverty and filth, retain -a degree of pride and arrogance which render our numbers our only -protection against insult, pillage, and even murder. We are, however, -assured by our Chopunnish guide, who appears to be a very sincere, -honest Indian, that the nations above will treat us with much more -hospitality. - -Tuesday 22. Two of our horses broke loose in the night and straggled -to some distance, so that we were not able to retake them and begin -our march before seven o’clock. We had just reached the top of the -hill near the village, when the load of one of the horses turned, and -the animal taking fright at a robe which still adhered to him, ran -furiously towards the village: just as he came there the robe fell, -and an Indian hid it in his hut. Two men went back after the horse -which they soon took, but the robe was still missing, and the Indians -denied having seen it. These repeated acts of knavery now exhausted -our patience, and captain Lewis therefore set out for the village, -determined to make them deliver up the robe, or to burn the village to -the ground. This disagreeable alternative was rendered unnecessary, for -on his way he met one of our men, who had found the robe in an Indian -hut hid behind some baggage. We resumed our route, and soon after -halted at a hill, from the top of which we enjoyed a commanding view of -the range of mountains in which mount Hood stands, and which continue -south as far as the eye can reach, with their tops covered with snow: -mount Hood itself bears south 30° west, and the snowy summit of mount -Jefferson south 10° west. Towards the south and at no great distance -we discern some woody country, and opposite this point of view is the -mouth of the Towahnahiooks. This river receives, at the distance of -eighteen or twenty miles, a branch from the right, which takes its -rise in mount Hood, while the main stream comes in a course from the -southeast, and ten or fifteen miles is joined by a second branch from -mount Jefferson. From this place we proceeded with our baggage in the -centre, escorted both before and behind by those of the men who were -without the care of horses, and having crossed a plain eight miles in -extent, reached a village of Eneeshurs, consisting of six houses. Here -we bought some dogs on which we dined near the village, and having -purchased another horse, went up the river four miles further, to -another Eneeshur village of seven mat houses. Our guide now informed -us that the next village was at such a distance that we should not -reach it this evening, and as we should be able to procure both dogs -and wood at this place, we determined to encamp. We here purchased a -horse, and engaged for a second in exchange for one of our canoes, but -as they were on the opposite side of the river, and the wind very high, -they were not able to cross before sunset, at which time the Indian had -returned home to the next village above. This evening, as well as at -dinner-time, we were obliged to buy wood to cook our meat, for there -is no timber in the country, and all the fuel is brought from a great -distance. We obtained as much as answered our purposes on moderate -terms, but as we are too poor to afford more than a single fire, and -lie without any shelter, we find the nights disagreeably cold, though -the weather is warm during the daytime. The next morning, - -Wednesday 23, two of the horses strayed away in consequence of -neglecting to tie them as had been directed. One of them was recovered, -but as we had a long ride to make before reaching the next village, we -could wait no longer than eleven o’clock for the other. Not being found -at that time we set out, and after marching for twelve miles over the -sands of a narrow rocky bottom on the north side of the river, came to -a village near the Rock rapid, at the mouth of a large creek, which we -had not observed in descending. It consisted of twelve temporary huts -of mat, inhabited by a tribe called Wahhowpum, who speak a language -very similar to that of the Chopunnish, whom they resemble also in -dress, both sexes being clad in robes and shirts as well as leggings -and moccasins. These people seemed much pleased to see us, and readily -gave us four dogs and some chapelell and wood in exchange for small -articles, such as pewter-buttons, strips of tin, iron, and brass, and -some twisted wire, which we had previously prepared for our journey -across the plains. These people, as well as some more living in five -huts a little below them, were waiting the return of the salmon. We -also found a Chopunnish returning home with his family and a dozen -young horses, some of which he wanted us to hire, but this we declined, -as in that case we should be obliged to maintain him and his family on -the route. After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and -having smoked with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men -danced. This civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing -such as we had not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle round the -dancers, who with their robes drawn tightly round the shoulders, and -divided into parties of five or six men, perform by crossing in a line -from one side of the circle to the other. All the parties, performers -as well as spectators, sang, and after proceeding in this way for some -time, the spectators join, and the whole concludes by a promiscuous -dance and song. Having finished, the natives retired at our request, -after promising to barter horses with us in the morning. The river is -by no means so difficult of passage nor obstructed by so many rapids as -it was in the autumn, the water being now sufficiently high to cover -the rocks in the bed. In the morning, - -Thursday 24, we began early to look for our horses, but they were not -collected before one o’clock. In the meantime we prepared saddles for -three new horses which we purchased from the Wahhowpums, and agreed -to hire three more from the Chopunnish Indian who was to accompany -us with his family. The natives also had promised to take our canoes -in exchange for horses; but when they found that we were resolved on -travelling by land, they refused giving us any thing, in hopes that we -would be forced to leave them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined -rather to cut them to pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, -and actually began to split them, on which they gave us several strands -of beads for each canoe. We had now a sufficient number of horses to -carry our baggage, and therefore proceeded wholly by land. At two -o’clock we set out, and passing between the hills and the northern -shore of the river, had a difficult and fatiguing march over a road -alternately sandy and rocky. At the distance of four miles, we came to -four huts of the Metcowwee tribe, two miles further the same number of -huts, and after making twelve miles from our last night’s camp, halted -at a larger village of five huts of Metcowwees. - -As we came along many of the natives passed and repassed without making -any advances to converse, though they behaved with distant respect. We -observed in our route no animals except the killdeer, the brown lizard, -and a moonax, which the people had domesticated as a favourite. Most of -the men complain of a soreness in their feet and legs, occasioned by -walking on rough stones and deep sands, after being accustomed for some -months past to a soft soil. We therefore determined to remain here this -evening, and for this purpose bought three dogs and some chapelell, -which we cooked with dry grass and willow boughs. The want of wood is -a serious inconvenience, on account of the coolness of the nights, -particularly when the wind sets from mount Hood, or in any western -direction: those winds being much colder than the winds from the Rocky -mountains. There are no dews in the plains, and from the appearance, we -presume, that no rain has fallen for several weeks. By nine o’clock the -following morning, - -Friday 25, we collected our horses and proceeded eleven miles to a -large village of fifty-one mat houses, where we purchased some wood and -a few dogs, on which we made our dinner. The village contained about -seven hundred persons of a tribe called Pishquitpah, whose residence on -the river is only during the spring and summer, the autumn and winter -being passed in hunting through the plains, and along the borders of -the mountains. The greater part of them were at a distance from the -river as we descended, and never having seen white men before, they -flocked round us in great numbers; but although they were exceedingly -curious they treated us with great respect, and were very urgent that -we should spend the night with them. Two principal chiefs were pointed -out by our Chopunnish companion, and acknowledged by the tribe, and -we therefore invested each of them with a small medal. We were also -very desirous of purchasing more horses; but as our principal stock -of merchandise consists of a dirk, a sword, and a few old clothes, -the Indians could not be induced to traffic with us. The Pishquitpahs -are generally of a good stature and proportion, and as the heads of -neither males nor females are so much flattened as those lower down the -river, their features are rather pleasant. The hair is braided in the -manner practised by their western neighbours; but the generality of -the men are dressed in a large robe, under which is a shirt reaching -to the knees, where it is met by long leggings, and the feet covered -with moccasins: others, however, wear only the truss and robe. As they -unite the occupations of hunting and fishing life, both sexes ride very -dexterously, their caparison being a saddle or pad of dressed skin, -stuffed with goats’ hair, and from which wooden stirrups are suspended; -and a hair rope tied at both ends to the under jaw of the animal. - -The horses, however, though good, suffer much, us do in fact all Indian -horses, from sore backs. Finding them not disposed to barter with us, -we left the Pishquitpahs at four o’clock, accompanied by eighteen or -twenty of their young men on horseback. At the distance of four miles, -we passed, without halting, five houses belonging to the Wollawollahs; -and five miles further, observing as many willows as would answer the -purpose of making fires, availed ourselves of the circumstance, by -encamping near them. The country through which we passed bore the same -appearance as that of yesterday. The hills on both sides of the river -are about two hundred and fifty feet high, generally abrupt and craggy, -and in many places presenting a perpendicular face of black, hard, and -solid rock. From the top of these hills, the country extends itself in -level plains to a very great distance, and though not as fertile as the -land near the falls, produces an abundant supply of low grass, which -is an excellent food for horses. This grass must indeed be unusually -nutritious, for even at this season of the year, after wintering on -the dry grass of the plains, and being used with greater severity than -is usual among the whites, many of these horses are perfectly fat, nor -have we, indeed, seen a single one who was poor. In the course of the -day we killed several rattlesnakes, like those of the United States, -and saw many of the common as well as the horned-lizard. We also killed -six ducks, one of which proved to be of a different species from any we -had yet seen, being distinguished by yellow legs, and feet webbed like -those of the duckinmallard. The Pishquitpahs passed the night with us, -and at their request, the violin was played; and some of the men amused -themselves with dancing. At the same time we succeeded in obtaining two -horses at nearly the same prices which had already been refused in the -village. In the morning, - -Saturday 26, we set out early. At the distance of three miles, the -river hills become low, and retiring to a great distance, leave a low, -level, extensive plain, which on the other side of the river, had begun -thirteen miles lower. As we were crossing this plain, we were overtaken -by several families travelling up the river with a number of horses, -and although their company was inconvenient, for the weather was warm, -the roads dusty, and their horses crowded in and broke our line of -march, yet we were unwilling to displease the Indians by any act of -severity. The plain possesses much grass and a variety of herbaceous -plants and shrubs; but after going twelve miles, we were fortunate -enough to find a few willows, which enabled us to cook a dinner of -jerked elk, and the remainder of the dogs purchased yesterday. We then -went on sixteen miles further, and six miles above our camp of the -nineteenth of October, encamped in the rain, about a mile below three -houses of Wollawollahs. Soon after we halted, an Indian boy took a -piece of bone, which he substituted for a fish-hook, and caught several -chub, nine inches long. - -Sunday, 27. We were detained till nine o’clock, before a horse, -which broke loose in the night, could be recovered. We then passed, -near our camp, a small river, called Youmalolam, proceeded through a -continuation, till at the distance of fifteen miles, the abrupt and -rocky hills three hundred feet high, return to the river. These we -ascended, and then crossed a higher plain for nine miles, when we again -came to the water side. We had been induced to make this long march -because we had but little provisions, and hoped to find a Wollawollah -village, which our guide had told us we should reach when next we met -the river. There was, however, no village to be seen, and as both the -men and horses were fatigued, we halted, and collecting some dry stalks -of weeds and the stems of a plant resembling southern wood, cooked a -small quantity of jerked meat for dinner. Soon after we were joined -by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we recognised a chief by the name -of Yellept, who had visited us on the nineteenth of October, when we -gave him a medal with the promise of a larger one on our return. He -appeared very much pleased at seeing us again, and invited us to remain -at his village three or four days, during which he would supply us with -the only food they had, and furnish us with horses for our journey. -After the cold, inhospitable treatment we have lately received, this -kind offer was peculiarly acceptable, and after a hasty meal, we -accompanied him to his village, six miles above, situated on the edge -of the low country, and about twelve miles below the mouth of Lewis’s -river. Immediately on our arrival, Yellept, who proved to be a man of -much influence, not only in his own, but in the neighbouring nations, -collected the inhabitants, and after having made an harangue, the -purport of which was to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, -set them an example, by bringing himself an armfull of wood, and a -platter containing three roasted mullets. They immediately assented -to one part, at least of the recommendation, by furnishing us with an -abundance of the only sort of fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs -growing in the plains. We then purchased four dogs, on which we supped -heartily, having been on short allowance for two days past. When we -were disposed to sleep, the Indians retired immediately on our request, -and indeed, uniformly conducted themselves with great propriety. These -people live on roots, which are very abundant in the plains, and -catch a few salmon-trout; but at present they seem to subsist chiefly -on a species of mullet, weighing from one to three pounds. They now -informed us that opposite to the village, there was a route which led -to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the south side of Lewis’s river, -that the road itself was good, and passed over a level country, well -supplied with water and grass, and that we should meet with plenty of -deer and antelope. We knew that a road in that direction would shorten -the distance at least eighty miles, and as the report of our guide -was confirmed by Yellept and other Indians, we did not hesitate to -adopt that course; they added, however, that there were no houses or -permanent residence of Indians on the road, and it was therefore deemed -prudent not to trust wholly to our guns, but to lay in a stock of -provisions. In the morning, - -Monday, 28, therefore we purchased ten dogs. While this trade was -carrying on by our men, Yellept brought a fine white horse, and -presented him to captain Clarke, expressing at the same time, a wish -to have a kettle; but on being informed that we had already disposed -of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would be content with -any present we should make in return. Captain Clarke therefore gave -his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a desire, adding -one hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, with which -he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, -and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of crossing -the river. But he would not listen to any proposal of leaving the -village. He wished us to remain two or three days; but would not let -us go to-day, for he had already sent to invite his neighbours, the -Chimnapoos, to come down this evening and join his people in a dance -for our amusement. We urged, in vain, that by setting out sooner, we -would the earlier return with the articles they desired; for a day, he -observed, would make but little difference. We at length mentioned, -that as there was no wind, it was now the best time to cross the river, -and would merely take the horses over, and return to sleep at their -village. To this he assented, and we then crossed with our horses, and -having hobbled them, returned to their camp. Fortunately there was -among these Wollawollahs, a prisoner belonging to a tribe of Shoshonee -or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the Multnomah, and visiting -occasionally the heads of the Wollawollah creek. Our Shoshonee woman, -Sacajaweah, though she belonged to a tribe near the Missouri, spoke -the same language as this prisoner, and by their means we were able to -explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their inquiries with -respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our conversation -inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several -sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered -the broken arm of one, gave some relief to another, whose knee was -contracted by rheumatism, and administered what we thought beneficial -for ulcers and eruptions of the skin, on various parts of the body, -which are very common disorders among them. But our most valuable -medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, and which, indeed, they -required very much: the complaint of the eyes, occasioned by living -on the water, and increased by the fine sand of the plains, being now -universal. - -A little before sunset, the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men, -and a few women, came to the village, and joining the Wollawollahs, -who were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle -round our camp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed -to dance, which they did for about an hour, to the tune of the violin. -They then requested to see the Indians dance. With this they readily -complied, and the whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and -children of the village, to several hundred, stood up, and sang and -danced at the same time. The exercise was not, indeed, very violent -nor very graceful, for the greater part of them were formed into a -solid column, round a kind of hollow square, stood on the same place, -and merely jumped up at intervals, to keep time to the music. Some, -however, of the more active warriors, entered the square, and danced -round it sidewise, and some of our men joined in the dance, to the -great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continued till ten -o’clock. The next morning, - -Tuesday 29, Yellept supplied us with two canoes in which we crossed -with all our baggage by eleven o’clock, but the horses having strayed -to some distance, we could not collect them in time to reach any fit -place to encamp if we began our journey, as night would overtake us -before we came to water. We therefore thought it adviseable to encamp -about a mile from the Columbia, on the mouth of the Wollawollah river. -This is a handsome stream, about fifty yards wide, and four and a half -feet in depth: its waters, which are clear, roll over a bed composed -principally of gravel, intermixed with some sand and mud, and though -the banks are low they do not seem to be overflowed. It empties -into the Columbia, about twelve or fifteen miles from the entrance -of Lewis’s river, and just above a range of high hills crossing the -Columbia. Its sources, like those of the Towahnahiooks, Lapage, -Youmalolam, and Wollawollah, come, as the Indians inform us, from -the north side of a range of mountains which we see to the east and -southeast, and which, commencing to the south of mount Hood, stretch in -a northeastern direction to the neighbourhood of a southern branch of -Lewis’s river, at some distance from the Rocky mountains. Two principal -branches however of the Towahnahiooks take their rise in mount -Jefferson and mount Hood, which in fact appear to separate the waters -of the Multnomah and Columbia. They are now about sixty-five or seventy -miles from this place, and although covered with snow, do not seem -high. To the south of these mountains the Indian prisoner says there -is a river, running towards the northwest, as large as the Columbia at -this place, which is nearly a mile. This account may be exaggerated, -but it serves to show that the Multnomah must be a very large river, -and that with the assistance of a southeastern branch of Lewis’s river, -passing round the eastern extremity of that chain of mountains in which -mounts Hood and Jefferson are so conspicuous, waters the vast tract of -country to the south, till its remote sources approach those of the -Missouri and Rio del Norde. - -Near our camp is a fish-weir, formed of two curtains of small willow -switches, matted together with wythes of the same plant, and extending -across the river in two parallel lines, six feet asunder. These are -supported by several parcels of poles, in the manner already described, -as in use among the Shoshonees, and are either rolled up or let down -at pleasure for a few feet, so as either to suffer the fish to pass -or detain them. A seine of fifteen or eighteen feet in length is -then dragged down the river by two persons, and the bottom drawn up -against the curtain of willows. They also employ a smaller seine like -a scooping net, one side of which is confined to a semicircular bow -five feet long, and half the size of a man’s arm, and the other side is -held by a strong rope, which being tied at both ends to the bow, forms -the chord to the semicircle. This is used by one person, but the only -fish which they can take at this time is a mullet of from four to five -pounds in weight, and this is the chief subsistence of a village of -twelve houses of Wollawollahs, a little below us on this river, as well -as of others on the opposite side of the Columbia. In the course of -the day we gave small medals to two inferior chiefs, each of whom made -us a present of a fine horse. We were in a poor condition to make an -adequate acknowledgment for this kindness, but gave several articles, -among which was a pistol, with some hundred rounds of ammunition. We -have indeed been treated by these people with an unusual degree of -kindness and civility. They seem to have been successful in their -hunting during the last winter, for all of them, but particularly the -women, are much better clad than when we saw them last; both sexes -among the Wollawollahs, as well as the Chimnapoos, being provided with -good robes, moccasins, long shirts, and leggings. Their ornaments are -similar to those used below, the hair cut in the forehead, and queues -falling over the shoulders in front of the body: some have some small -plaits at the earlocks, and others tie a bundle of the docked foretop -in front of the forehead. - -They were anxious that we should repeat our dance of last evening, but -as it rained a little and the wind was high, we found the weather too -cold for such amusement. - -Wednesday 30. Although we had hobbled and secured our new purchases, we -found some difficulty in collecting all our horses. In the meantime we -purchased several dogs, and two horses, besides exchanging one of our -least valuable horses for a very good one belonging to the Chopunnish -who is accompanying us with his family. The daughter of this man is now -about the age of puberty, and being incommoded by the disorder incident -to that age, she is not permitted to associate with the family, but -sleeps at a distance from her father’s camp, and on the route always -follows at some distance alone. This delicacy or affectation is -common to many nations of Indians, among whom a girl in that state is -separated from her family, and forbidden to use any article of the -household or kitchen furniture, or to engage in any occupation. We -have now twenty-three horses, many of whom are young and excellent -animals, but the greater part of them are afflicted with sore backs. -The Indians in general are cruel masters; they ride very hard, and -as the saddles are so badly constructed that it is almost impossible -to avoid wounding the back, yet they continue to ride when the poor -creatures are scarified in a dreadful manner. At eleven o’clock we -left these honest, worthy people, accompanied by our guide and the -Chopunnish family, and directed our course north 30° east, across -an open level sandy plain, unbroken except by large banks of pure -sand, which have drifted in many parts of the plain to the height of -fifteen or twenty feet. The rest of the plain is poor in point of soil, -but throughout is generally short grass interspersed with aromatic -shrubs, and a number of plants, the roots of which supply the chief -sustenance of the natives. Among these we observe a root something -like the sweet potatoe. At the distance of fourteen miles we reached -a branch of Wollawollah river, rising in the same range of mountains, -and empties itself six miles above the mouth of the latter. It is a -bold deep stream, about ten yards wide, and seems to be navigable for -canoes. The hills of this creek are generally abrupt and rocky, but -the narrow bottom is very fertile, and both possess twenty times as -much timber as the Columbia itself; indeed, we now find, for the first -time since leaving Rock-fort, an abundance of firewood. The growth -consists of cottonwood, birch, the crimson haw, red and sweet willow, -choke-cherry, yellow currants, gooseberry, the honeysuckle with a white -berry, rosebushes, sevenbark, sumac, together with some corn-grass and -rushes. The advantage of a comfortable fire induced us, as the night -was come, to halt at this place. We were soon supplied by Drewyer with -a beaver and an otter, of which we took only a part of the beaver, and -gave the rest to the Indians. The otter is a favourite food, though -much inferior, at least in our estimation, to the dog, which they will -not eat. The horse too is seldom eaten, and never except when absolute -necessity compels them to eat it, as the only alternative to prevent -their dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not, however, seem to -proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from attachment to the -animal itself, for many of them eat very heartily of the horse-beef -which we give them. At an early hour in the morning, - -Thursday, May 1, 1805, we collected our horses, and after breakfast set -out about seven o’clock, and followed the road up the creek. The low -grounds and plains presented the same appearance as that of yesterday, -except that the latter were less sandy. At the distance of nine miles, -the Chopunnish Indian, who was in front, pointed out an old unbeaten -road to the left, which he informed us was our shortest route. Before -venturing, however, to quit our present road, which was level, and not -only led us in the proper direction, but was well supplied with wood -and water, we halted to let our horses graze till the arrival of our -other guide, who happened to be at some distance behind. On coming up -he seemed much displeased with the other Indian, and declared that the -road we were pursuing was the proper one; that if we decided on taking -the left road, it would be necessary to remain till to-morrow morning, -and then make an entire day’s march before we could reach either water -or wood. To this the Chopunnish assented, but declared that he himself -meant to pursue that route, and we therefore gave him some powder and -lead which he requested. - -Four hunters whom we had sent out in the morning, joined us while we -halted, and brought us a beaver for dinner. We then took our leave of -the Chopunnish at one o’clock, and pursued our route up the creek, -through a country similar to that we had passed in the morning. But -at the distance of three miles, the hills on the north side became -lower, and the bottoms of the creek widened into a pleasant country, -two or three miles in extent. The timber too, is now more abundant, -and our guide tells us that we shall not want either wood or game from -this place as far as the Kooskooskee. We have already seen a number -of deer, of which we killed one, and observed great quantities of the -curlew, as well as some cranes, ducks, prairie larks, and several -species of sparrow, common to the prairies. There is, in fact, very -little difference in the general face of the country here from that -of the plains on the Missouri, except that the latter are enlivened -by vast herds of buffaloe, elk and other animals, which give it an -additional interest. Over these wide bottoms we continued on a course -north, 75° east, till, at the distance of seventeen miles from where -we dined, and twenty-six from our last encampment, we halted for -the night. We had scarcely encamped, when three young men came up -from the Wollawollah village, with a steel trap, which had been left -behind inadvertently, and which they had come a whole day’s journey -in order to restore. This act of integrity was the more pleasing, -because, though very rare among Indians, it corresponds perfectly with -the general behaviour of the Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost -carelessly several knives, which were always returned as soon as found. -We may, indeed, justly affirm, that of all the Indians whom we have -met since leaving the United States, the Wollawollahs were the most -hospitable, honest and sincere. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - The party still pursue their route towards the Kooskooskee - on horseback with Wollawollah guides--character of the - country--the quamash and other flowering shrubs in bloom--the - party reach the Kinnooenim creek--they meet with an old - acquaintance called the Bighorn Indian--they arrive at the - mouth of the Kooskooskee--singular custom among the Chopunnish - women--difficulty of purchasing provisions from the natives, - and the new resort of the party to obtain them--the Chopunnish - style of architecture--captain Clarke turns physician, and - performs several experiments with success upon the natives, - which they reward--an instance of their honesty--the distress - of the Indians for want of provisions during the winter--the - party finally meet the Twistedhair, to whom was entrusted - their horses during their journey down--the quarrel between - that chief and another of his nation, on the subject of his - horses--the causes of this controversy stated at large--the two - chiefs reconciled by the interference of the party, and the - horses restored--extraordinary instance of Indian hospitality - towards strangers--a council held with the Chopunnish, and the - object of the expedition explained in a very circuitous route - of explanation--the party again perform medical cures--the - answer of the Chopunnish to the speech delivered at the - council, confirmed by a singular ceremony of acquiescence--they - promise faithfully to follow the advice of their visiters. - - -Friday, May 2. We despatched two hunters ahead; but the horse we had -yesterday purchased from the Chopunnish, although closely hobbled, -contrived to break loose in the night, and went back to rejoin his -companions. He was however overtaken and brought to us about one -o’clock, and we then set forward. For three miles we followed a hilly -road on the north side of the creek, opposite to a wide bottom, where -a branch falls in from the southwest mountains, which, though covered -with snow, are about twenty-five miles distant, and do not appear high. -We then entered an extensive level bottom, with about fifty acres of -land well covered with pine near the creek, and the long-leafed pine -occasionally on the sides of the hills along its banks. After crossing -the creek at the distance of seven miles from our camp, we repassed -it seven miles further, near the junction of one of its branches from -the northeast. The main stream here bears to the south, towards the -mountains where it rises, and its bottoms then become narrow, as the -hills are higher. We followed the course of this northeast branch in a -direction N. 45° E. for eight and three quarter miles, when having made -nineteen miles, we halted in a little bottom on the north side. The -creek is here about four yards wide, and as far as we can perceive, it -comes from the east, but the road here turns from it into the high open -plain. The soil of the country seems to improve as we advance, and this -afternoon we see, in the bottoms, an abundance of quamash now in bloom. -We killed nothing but a duck, though we saw two deer at a distance, as -well as many sandhill crows, curlews, and other birds common to the -prairies, and there is much sign of both beaver and otter, along the -creeks. The three young Wollawollahs continued with us. During the day -we observed them eating the inner part of the young succulent stem of -a plant very common in the rich lands on the Mississippi, Ohio and its -branches. It is a large coarse plant, with a ternate leaf, the leaflets -of which are three-lobed, and covered with a woolly pubescence, while -the flower and fructification resemble that of the parsnip. On tasting -this plant, we found it agreeable, and eat heartily of it without any -inconvenience. - -Saturday, 3. We set out at an early hour, and crossed the high plains, -which we found more fertile and less sandy than below; yet, though the -grass is taller, there are very few aromatic shrubs. After pursuing -a course N. 25° E. for twelve miles, we reached the Kinnooenim. This -creek rises in the southwest mountains, and though only twelve yards -wide, discharges a considerable body of water into Lewis’s river, a -few miles above the narrows. Its bed is pebbled, its banks low, and -the hills near its sides high and rugged; but in its narrow bottoms -are found some cottonwood, willow, and the underbrush, which grows -equally on the east branch of the Wollawollah. After dining at the -Kinnooenim, we resumed our journey over the high plains, in the -direction of N. 45° E. and reached, at the distance of three miles, -a small branch of that creek about five yards wide. The lands in its -neighbourhood are composed of a dark rich loam; its hill sides, like -those of the Kinnooenim, are high, its bottoms narrow, and possess but -little timber. It increased however in quantity as we advanced along -the north side of the creek for eleven miles. At that distance we were -agreeably surprised by the appearance of Weahkoonut, or the Indian -whom we had called the Bighorn, from the circumstance of his wearing -a horn of that animal, suspended from his left arm. He had gone down -with us last year along Lewis’s river, and was highly serviceable in -preparing the minds of the natives for our reception. He is, moreover, -the first chief of a large band of Chopunnish; and hearing that we were -on our return, he had come with ten of his warriors to meet us. He -now turned back with us, and we continued up the bottoms of the creek -for two miles, till the road began to leave the creek, and cross the -hill to the plains. We therefore encamped for the night in a grove of -cottonwood, after we had made a disagreeable journey of twenty-eight -miles. During the greater part of the day the air was keen and cold, -and it alternately rained, hailed and snowed; but, though the wind blew -with great violence, it was fortunately from the southwest, and on our -backs. We had consumed at dinner the last of our dried meat, and nearly -all that was left of the dogs; so that we supped very scantily on the -remainder, and had nothing for to-morrow. Weahkoonut, however, assured -us that there was a house on the river at no great distance, where we -might supply ourselves with provisions. We now missed our guide and the -Wollawollahs, who left us abruptly this morning, and never returned. -After a disagreeable night, we collected our horses at an early hour. - -Sunday, 4, and proceeded with a continuation of the same weather. We -are now nearer to the southwest mountains, which appear to become -lower as they advance towards the northeast. We followed the road -over the plains, north 60° east, for four miles to a ravine, where -was the source of a small creek, down the hilly and rocky sides of -which we proceeded for eight miles to its entrance into Lewis’s river, -about seven miles and a half above the mouth of the Kooskooskee. Near -this place we found the house of which Weahkoonut had mentioned, and -where we now halted for breakfast. It contained six families, but so -miserably poor that all we could obtain from them were two lean dogs -and a few large cakes of half cured bread, made of a root resembling -the sweet potatoe, of all which we contrived to form a kind of soup. -The soil of the plain is good, but it has no timber. The range of -southwest mountains is about fifteen miles above us, but continues -to lower, and is still covered with snow to its base. After giving -a passage to Lewis’s river, near their northeastern extremity, they -terminate in a high level plain between that river and the Kooskooskee. -The salmon not having yet called them to the rivers, the greater part -of the Chopunnish are now dispersed in villages through this plain, for -the purpose of collecting quamash and cows, which here grow in great -abundance, the soil being extremely fertile, and in many places covered -with the long-leafed pine, the larch, and balsam-fir, which contribute -to render it less thirsty than the open unsheltered plains. After our -repast we continued our route along the west side of the river, where -as well as on the opposite shore, the high hills approach it closely, -till at the distance of three miles we halted opposite to two houses: -the inhabitants consisted of five families of Chopunnish, among whom -were Teton, or Sky, the younger of the two chiefs who accompanied us -in the autumn to the great falls of the Columbia, and also our old -pilot who had conducted us down the river to the Columbia. They both -advised us to cross here, and ascend the Kooskooskee on the northeast -side, this being the shortest and best route to the forks of that -river, where we should find the Twistedhair, in whose charge we left -our horses, and to which place they promised to show us the way. We -did not hesitate to accept this offer, and therefore crossed with -the assistance of three canoes; but as the night was coming on, we -purchased a little wood and some roots of cows, and encamped, though -we had made only fifteen miles to-day. The evening proved cold and -disagreeable, and the natives crowded round our fire in such numbers -that we could scarcely cook or even keep ourselves warm. At these -houses of Chopunnish we observed a small hut with a single fire, -which we are informed is appropriated for women who are undergoing -the operation of the menses; there they are obliged to retreat; the -men are not permitted to approach within a certain distance of them, -and when any thing is to be conveyed to those deserted females, the -person throws it to them forty or fifty paces off, and then retires. -It is singular, indeed, that amongst the nations of the wilderness, -there should be found customs and rites so nearly resembling those of -the Jews. It is scarcely necessary to allude more particularly to the -uncleanness of Jewish females and the rites of purification. - -Monday 5. We collected our horses, and at seven o’clock set forward -alone; for Weahkoonut, whose people resided above on the west side of -Lewis’s river, continued his route homeward when we crossed to the -huts. Our road was across the plains for four and a half miles, to -the entrance of the Kooskooskee. We then proceeded up that river, and -at five miles reached a large mat house, but could not procure any -provisions from the inhabitants, but on reaching another three miles -beyond, we were surprised at the liberality of an Indian, who gave -captain Clarke a very elegant gray mare, for which, all he requested -was a phial of eye-water. Last autumn, while we were encamped at the -mouth of the Chopunnish river, a man who complained of a pain in his -knee and thigh, was brought to us in hopes of receiving relief. The man -was to appearance recovered from his disorder, though he had not walked -for some time. But that we might not disappoint them, captain Clarke, -with much ceremony, washed and rubbed his sore limb, and gave him some -volatile liniment to continue the operation, which either caused, or -rather did not prevent his recovery. The man gratefully circulated our -praises, and our fame as physicians was increased by the efficacy of -some eye-water which we gave them at the same time. We are by no means -displeased at this new resource for obtaining subsistence, as they will -give us no provisions without merchandise, and our stock is now very -much reduced: we cautiously abstain from giving them any but harmless -medicines, and as we cannot possibly do harm, our prescriptions, though -unsanctioned by the faculty, may be useful, and are entitled to some -remuneration. Four miles beyond this house we came to another large -one, containing ten families, where we halted, and made our dinner -on two dogs and a small quantity of roots, which we did not procure -without much difficulty. Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing -by, and looking with great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor -half-starved puppy almost into captain Lewis’s plate, laughing heartily -at the humour of it. Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it -with great force into the fellow’s face, and seizing his tomahawk, -threatened to cut him down if he dared to repeat such insolence. He -immediately withdrew, apparently much mortified, and we continued our -repast of dog very quietly. Here we met our old Chopunnish guide, with -his family, and soon afterwards one of our horses, which had been -separated from the rest in the charge of the Twistedhair, and been -in this neighbourhood for several weeks, was caught and restored to -us. After dinner we proceeded to the entrance of Colter’s creek, at -the distance of four miles, and having made twenty and a half miles, -encamped on the lower side of it. Colter’s creek rises not far from -the Rocky mountains, and passing in the greater part of its course -through a country well supplied with pine, discharges a large body of -water. It is about twenty-five yards wide, with a pebbled bed and low -banks. At a little distance from us are two Chopunnish houses, one of -which contains eight families, and the other, which is by much the -largest we have ever seen, inhabited by at least thirty. It is rather a -kind of shed, built like all the other huts, of straw and mats in the -form of the roof of a house, one hundred and fifty-six feet long, and -about fifteen wide, closed at the ends, and having a number of doors -on each side. The vast interior is without partitions, but the fire -of each family is kindled in a row along the middle of the building, -and about ten feet apart. This village is the residence of one of the -principal chiefs of the nation, who is called Neeshnepahkeook, or -Cutnose, from the circumstance of having his nose cut from the stroke -of a lance in battle with the Snake Indians. We gave him a small medal, -but though he is a great chief, his influence among his own people -does not seem to be considerable, and his countenance possesses very -little intelligence. We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not -purchase any provisions, except a small quantity of the roots and -bread of the cows. They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and -made many applications for assistance, but we refused to do any thing -unless they gave us either dogs or horses to eat. We had soon nearly -fifty patients. A chief brought his wife with an abcess on her back, -and promised to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve -her. Captain Clarke, therefore, opened the abcess, introduced a tent, -and dressed it with basilicon. We prepared also, and distributed, some -doses of the flour of sulphur and cream of tarter, with directions for -its use. For these we obtained several dogs, but too poor for use, -and we therefore postponed our medical operations till the morning. In -the meantime a number of Indians, beside the residents of the village, -gathered about us or encamped in the woody bottom of the creek. - -In the evening, we learnt by means of a Snake Indian, who happens to -be at this place, that one of the old men has been endeavouring to -excite prejudices against us, by observing that he thought we were bad -men, and came here, most probably, for the purpose of killing them. In -order to remove such impressions, we made a speech, in which, by means -of the Snake Indian, we told them our country and all the purposes of -our visit. While we were engaged in this occupation, we were joined by -Weahkoonut, who assisted us in effacing all unfavourable impressions -from the minds of the Indians. The following morning, - -Tuesday 6, our practice became more valuable. The woman declared that -she had slept better than at any time since her illness. She was -therefore dressed a second time, and her husband, according to promise, -brought us a horse, which we immediately killed. Besides this woman, -we had crowds of other applicants, chiefly afflicted with sore eyes, -and after administering to them for several hours, found ourselves once -more in possession of a plentiful meal, for the inhabitants began to -be more accommodating, and one of them even gave us a horse for our -remedies to his daughter, a little girl, who was afflicted with the -rheumatism. We moreover, exchanged one of our horses with Weahkoonut, -by the addition of a small flag, which procured us an excellent sorrel -horse. We here found three men, of a nation called Skeetsomish, who -reside at the falls of a large river, emptying itself into the north -side of the Columbia. This river takes its rise from a large lake in -the mountains, at no great distance from the falls where these natives -live. We shall designate this river, hereafter, by the name of Clarke’s -river, as we do not know its Indian appellation, and we are the first -whites who have ever visited its principal branches; for the Great -Lake river mentioned by Mr. Fidler, if at all connected with Clarke’s -river, must be a very inconsiderable branch. To this river, moreover, -which we have hitherto called Clarke’s river, which rises in the -southwest mountains, we restored the name of Towahnahiooks, the name -by which it is known to the Eneeshurs. In dress and appearance these -Skeetsomish were not to be distinguished from the Chopunnish, but their -language is entirely different, a circumstance which we did not learn -till their departure, when it was too late to procure from them a -vocabulary. - -About two o’clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied -by Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men, and a man who said he was the -brother of the Twistedhair. At four miles we came to a single house -of three families, but we could not procure provisions of any kind; -and five miles further we halted for the night near another house, -built like the rest, of sticks, mats and dried hay, and containing six -families. It was now so difficult to procure any thing to eat that -our chief dependence was on the horse which we received yesterday for -medicine; but to our great disappointment, he broke the rope by which -he was confined, made his escape, and left us supperless in the rain. -The next morning, - -Wednesday 7, Weahkoonut and his party left us, and we proceeded up the -river with the brother of the Twistedhair as a guide. The Kooskooskee -is now rising fast, the water is clear and cold, and as all the socks -and shoals are now covered, the navigation is safe, notwithstanding the -rapidity of the current. The timber begins about the neighbourhood of -Colter’s creek, and consists chiefly of long-leafed pine. After going -four miles, we reached a house of six families, below the entrance of -a small creek, where our guide advised us to cross the river, as the -route was better, and the game more abundant near the mouth of the -Chopunnish. We therefore unloaded, and by means of a single canoe, -passed to the south side in about four hours, during which time we -dined. An Indian of one of the houses now brought two canisters of -powder, which his dog had discovered under ground in a bottom some -miles above. We immediately knew them to be the same we had buried -last autumn, and as he had kept them safely, and had honesty enough to -return them, we rewarded him inadequately, but as well as we could, -with a steel for striking fire. We set out at three o’clock, and -pursued a difficult and stony road for two miles, when we left the -river and ascended the hills on the right, which begin to resemble -mountains. But when we reached the heights we saw before us a beautiful -level country, partially ornamented with the long-leafed pine, and -supplied with an excellent pasture of thick grass, and a variety of -herbaceous plants, the abundant productions of a dark rich soil. In -many parts of the plain, the earth is thrown up into little mounds, -by some animal, whose habits most resemble those of the salamander; -but although these tracks are scattered over all the plains from the -Mississippi to the Pacific, we have never yet been able to obtain a -sight of the animal itself. - -As we entered the plain Neeshnepahkee, the Cutnose, overtook us, and -after accompanying us a few miles, turned to the right to visit some of -his people, who were now gathering roots in the plain. Having crossed -the plain a little to the south of east, we descended a long steep -hill, at the distance of five miles, to a creek six yards wide, which -empties itself into the Kooskooskee. We ascended this little stream -for a mile, and encamped at an Indian establishment of six houses, -which seem to have been recently evacuated. Here we were joined by -Neeshnepahkee, and the Shoshonee who had interpreted for us on the -fifth. - -From the plain we observed that the spurs of the Rocky mountains are -still perfectly covered with snow, which the Indians inform us is so -deep that we shall not be able to pass before the next full moon, -that is, the first of June: though others place the time for crossing -at a still greater distance. To us, who are desirous of reaching the -plains of the Missouri, if for no other reason, for the purpose of -enjoying a good meal, this intelligence was by no means welcome, and -gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter’s creek, -which formed our supper, part of which had already been our dinner. -Observing, however, some deer, and a great appearance of more, we -determined to make an attempt to get some of them, and therefore, after -a cold night’s rest, - -Thursday, 8, most of the hunters set out at daylight. By eleven o’clock -they all returned, with four deer, and a duck of an uncommon kind, -which, with the remains of our horse, formed a stock of provisions such -as we had not lately possessed. Without our facilities of procuring -subsistence with guns, the natives of this country must often suffer -very severely. During last winter they were so much distressed for -food, that they were obliged to boil and eat the moss growing on -the pine trees. At the same period they cut down nearly all the -long-leafed pines, which we observed on the ground, for the purpose -of collecting its seed, which resemble in size and shape that of the -large sunflower, and when roasted or boiled, is nutritious and not -disagreeable to the taste. At the present season they peal this pine -tree, and eat the inner and succulent bark. In the creek near us, they -also procure trout by means of a falling trap, constructed on the same -plan with those common to the United States. We gave Neeshnepahkee -and his people some of our game and horse-beef, besides the entrails -of the deer, and four fawns which we found inside of two of them. -They did not eat any of it perfectly raw, but the entrails had very -little cooking, and the fawns were boiled, whole, and the hide, hair -and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was offended at not having as -much venison as he wished, and refused to interpret; but as we took no -notice of him, he became very officious in the course of a few hours, -and made many efforts to reinstate himself in our favour. The mother -of the Twistedhair, and Neeshnepahkeeook now drew a sketch, which we -preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky mountains. They make -the main southern branch of Lewis’s river, much more extensive than -the other, and place a great number of Shoshonee villages on its -western side. Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we set -out, in company with Neeshnepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother -of Twistedhair having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a -level plain, with little wood, through which we passed in a direction -parallel to the river, for four miles, when we met the Twistedhair and -six of his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part -of our saddles, last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavourable -conjectures on finding that he received us with great coldness. -Shortly after he began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was -answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel -had arisen between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterwards -understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and -were desirous of terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them -we should go on to the first water and encamp. We therefore set out, -followed by all the Indians, and having reached, at two miles distance, -a small stream, running to the right, we encamped with the two chiefs -and their little bands, forming separate camps, at a distance from -each other. They all appeared to be in an ill humour, and as we had -already heard reports that the Indians had discovered and carried -off our saddles, and that the horses were very much scattered, we -began to be uneasy, lest there should be too much foundation for the -report. We were therefore anxious to reconcile the two chiefs as soon -as possible, and desired the Shoshonee to interpret for us, while we -attempted a mediation; but he peremptorily refused to speak a word: -he observed that it was a quarrel between the two chiefs, and he had -therefore no right to interfere; nor could all our representations, -that by merely repeating what we said, he could not possibly be -considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce him to take any part -in it. Soon afterwards Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent -to invite the Twistedhair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the -invitation, and as we were smoking the pipe over our fire, he informed -us, that according to his promise, on leaving us at the falls of the -Colombia, he had collected our horses and taken charge of them, as -soon as he had reached home. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeooks -and Tunnachemootoolt (the Brokenarm) who, as we passed, had been on -a war party against the Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis’s -river, returned, and becoming jealous of him, because the horses had -been confided to his care, were constantly quarrelling with him. At -length, being an old man, and unwilling to live in perpetual dispute -with the two chiefs, he had given up the care of the horses, which -had consequently become very much scattered. The greater part of them -were, however, still in this neighbourhood; some in the forks between -the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, and three or four at the village of -the Brokenarm, about half a day’s march higher up the river. He added, -that on the rise of the river in the spring, the earth had fallen -from the door of the cache and exposed the saddles, some of which had -probably been lost; but as soon as he was acquainted with the situation -of them, he had them buried in another deposit, where they now are. -He now promised that if we would stay to-morrow at his house, a few -miles from this place, he would collect such of the horses as were in -the neighbourhood, and send his young men for those in the forks over -the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit the Brokenarm, who -was a chief of great eminence, and that he would himself guide us to -his dwelling. We told him that we meant to follow his advice in every -respect; that we had confided our horses to his charge, and expected -that he would deliver them to us, on which we should willingly pay him -the two guns and ammunition, as we had promised. With this he seemed -very much pleased, and declared that he would use every exertion to -restore our horses. We now sent for the Cutnose, and after smoking for -some time, took occasion to express to the two chiefs, our regret at -seeing a misunderstanding between them. Neeshnepahkeeook told us that -the Twistedhair was a bad old man, and wore two faces; for instead of -taking care of our horses, he had suffered his young men to hunt with -them, so that they had been very much injured, and that it was for -this reason that the Brokenarm and himself had forbidden him to use -them. The Twistedhair made no reply to this speech, after which we -told Neeshnepahkeeook of our arrangement for to-morrow. He appeared -very well satisfied, and said that he would himself go with us to the -Brokenarm, who expected that we would see him, and who had _two bad -horses for us_, an expression by which was meant that he intended -making us a present of two valuable horses. That chief, he also -informed us, had been apprised of our want of provisions, and sent four -young men to meet us with a supply; but having taken a different road, -they had missed us. After this interview we retired to rest at a late -hour, and in the morning, - -Friday 9, after sending out several hunters, we proceeded through a -level rich country, similar to that of yesterday, for six miles, when -we reached the house of the Twistedhair, situated near some larch -trees, and a few bushes of balsam fir. It was built in the usual form, -of sticks, mats, and dried hay; and although it contained no more than -two fires and twelve persons, was provided with the customary appendage -of a small hut, to which females in certain situations were to retreat. -As soon as we halted at this place, we went with the Twistedhair to -the spot where he had buried our saddles, and two other young Indians -were despatched after the horses. Our hunters joined us with nothing -but a few pheasants, the only deer which they killed being lost in the -river. We therefore dined on soup, made of the roots of cows, which -we purchased of the Indians. Late in the afternoon, the Twistedhair -returned with about half the saddles we had left in the autumn, and -some powder and lead which was buried at the same place. Soon after, -the Indians brought us twenty-one of our horses, the greater part of -whom were in excellent order, though some had not yet recovered from -hard usage, and three had sore backs. We were however very glad to -procure them in any condition. Several Indians came down from the -village of Tunnachemootoolt, and passed the night with us. The Cutnose -and Twistedhair seem now perfectly reconciled, for they both slept in -the house of the latter. The man who had imposed himself upon us as a -brother of the Twistedhair, also came and renewed his advances, but we -now found that he was an impertinent proud fellow, of no respectability -in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate -his intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very -uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail -which began about seven o’clock, changed in about two hours to a heavy -fall of snow, which continued till after six o’clock - -Saturday, 10, the next morning, when it ceased, after covering the -ground eight inches deep, and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon -collected our horses, and after a scanty breakfast of roots, set out on -a course S. 35° E. across the plains, the soil of which being covered -with snow, we could only judge from observing that near the ravines, -where it had melted, the mud was deep, black, and well supplied with -quamash. The road was very slippery, and the snow stuck to the horses’ -feet and made them slip down very frequently. After going about -sixteen miles, we came to the hills of Commearp creek, which are six -hundred feet in height, but the tops of which only are covered with -snow, the lower parts as well as the bottoms of the creek having had -nothing but rain while it snowed in the high plains. On descending -these hills to the creek, we reached about four o’clock, the house -of Tunnachemootoolt, where was displayed the flag which we had given -him, raised on a staff: under this we were received with due form, -and then conducted a short distance to a good spot for an encampment, -on Commearp creek. We soon collected the men of consideration, and -after smoking, explained how destitute we were of provisions. The -chief spoke to the people, who immediately brought about two bushels -of dried quamash roots, some cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried -salmon trout: we thanked them for this supply, but observed that, not -being accustomed to live on roots alone, we feared that such diet might -make our men sick, and therefore proposed to exchange one of our good -horses, which was rather poor, for one that was fatter, and which we -might kill. The hospitality of the chief was offended at the idea of an -exchange; he observed that his people had an abundance of young horses, -and that if we were disposed to use that food, we might have as many as -we wanted. Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, without -asking any thing in return, an act of liberal hospitality much greater -than any we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky mountains, if it be -not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in -this part of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling -the natives that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we -were refreshed, we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare -our repast. During this time, a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, -came from his village about six miles distant, with a party of fifty -men, for the purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle, -and he alighted and smoked with us, while his retinue, who had five -elegant horses, continued mounted at a short distance. While this -was going on, the chief had a large leathern tent spread for us, and -desired that we would make that our home whilst we remained at his -village. We removed there, and having made a fire, and cooked a supper -of horse-beef and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, -and spent the evening in explaining who we were, the objects of our -journey, and giving answers to their inquiries. To each of the chiefs, -Tunnachemootoolt, and Hohastillpilp, we gave a small medal, explaining -their use and importance, as honorary distinctions both among the -whites and red men. Our men are delighted at once more having made a -hearty meal. They have generally been in the habit of crowding the -houses of the Indians, and endeavouring to purchase provisions on the -best terms they could; for the inhospitality of the country was such, -that in the extreme of hunger they were often obliged to treat the -natives with but little ceremony, but this the Twistedhair had told us -was disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and liberal, -we ordered our men to treat them with great respect and not to throng -round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well together. -After our council, the Indians felt no disposition to retire, and our -tent was crowded with them all night. The next morning, - -Sunday 11, we arose early and breakfasted again on horse-flesh. This -village of Tunnachemootoolt, is in fact only a single house, one -hundred and fifty feet long, built after the Chopunnish fashion, with -sticks, straw, and dried grass. It contains twenty-four fires, about -double that number of families, and might perhaps muster one hundred -fighting men. The usual outhouse, or retiring hut for females, is -not omitted. Their chief subsistence is roots, and the noise made -by the women in pounding them, gives the hearer the idea of a nail -factory. Yet notwithstanding so many families are crowded together, -the Chopunnish are much more cleanly in their persons and habitations, -than any people we have met since we left the Ottoes on the river -Platte. In the course of the morning, a chief named Yoompahkatim, a -stout good looking man, of about forty years of age, who had lost his -left eye, arrived from his village on the south side of Lewis’s river. -We gave him a small medal, and finding that there were now present -the principal chiefs of the Chopunnish nation, Tunnachemootoolt (the -Brokenarm) Neeshnepahkeeook, Yoompahkatim, and Hohastilpilp, whose rank -is in the order they are mentioned, we thought this a favourable moment -to explain to them the intentions of our government. We therefore -collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of the -relative situation of our country, on a mat, with a piece of coal, -detailed the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to -preserve harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of -establishing trading houses for their relief and support. It was not -without difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that -we were able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much -of which might have been lost or distorted, in its circuitous route -through a variety of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in -English to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau; -he interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language, and she then -put it into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explained -it to the Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded in -communicating the impression they wished, and then adjourned the -council; after which we amused them by showing the wonders of the -compass, the spy-glass, the magnet, the watch and air-gun, each of -which attracted its share of admiration. They said that after we had -left the Minnetarees last autumn, three young Chopunnish had gone over -to that nation, who had mentioned our visit and the extraordinary -articles we had with us, but they placed no confidence in it until now. -Among other persons present, was a youth, son of the Chopunnish chief, -of much consideration, killed not long since by the Minnetarees of Fort -de Prairie. As soon as the council was over, he brought a very fine -mare with a colt, and begged us to accept them as a proof that he meant -to pursue our advice, for he had opened his ears to our councils, -which had made his heart glad. We now resumed our medical labours, and -had a number of patients afflicted with scrophula, rheumatism and sore -eyes, to all which we administered very cheerfully as far as our skill -and supplies of medicine would permit. We also visited a chief who has -for three years past so completely lost the use of his limbs, that he -lies like a perfect corpse in whatever position he is placed, yet he -eats heartily, digests his food very well, has a regular pulse, and -retains his flesh; in short, were he not somewhat pale from lying so -long out of the sun, he might be mistaken for a man in perfect health. -This disease does not seem to be common; indeed, we have seen only -three cases of it among the Chopunnish, who alone are afflicted with -it. The scrophulous disorders we may readily conjecture to originate in -the long confinement to vegetable diet; which may perhaps also increase -the soreness of the eyes; but this strange disorder baffles at once our -curiosity and our skill. Our assistance was again demanded early the -next morning, - -Monday 12, by a crowd of Indians, to whom we gave eye-water. Shortly -after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, to -decide on the answer to our speech; and the result was, as we were -informed, that they confided in what we had told them, and resolved -to follow our advice. This resolution once made, the principal -chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of the roots of -cows, and going round to all the kettles and baskets, in which his -people were cooking, thickened the soup into a kind of mush. He then -began a harangue, making known the result of the deliberations among -the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, concluded by an -invitation to all who agreed to the proceedings of the council, to -come and eat, while those who would not abide by the decision of the -chiefs were requested to show their dissent by not partaking in the -feast. During this animated harangue, the women, who were probably -uneasy at the prospect of forming this new connexion with strangers, -tore their hair, and wrung their hands with the greatest appearance of -distress. But the concluding appeal of the orator effectually stopped -the mouths of every malcontent, and the proceedings were ratified, -and the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity. The chiefs and -warriors then came in a body to visit us, as we were seated near our -tent, and at their instance, two young men, one of whom was the son -of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other of the youth whose father had been -killed by the Pahkees, presented to each of us a fine horse. We caused -the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a pound of -powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the young -men from whom we had received the horses. They then invited us into -the tent, and told us that they now wished to answer what we had told -them yesterday; but that many of their people were at that moment -waiting in great pain for our medical assistance. It was therefore -agreed that captain Clarke, who is the favourite physician, should -visit the sick, while captain Lewis would hold the council; which was -accordingly opened by an old man, the father of Hohastilpilp. He began -by declaring that the nation had listened with attention to our advice, -and had only one heart and one tongue in declaring their determination -to follow it. They knew well the advantages of peace, for they valued -the lives of their young men too much to expose them to the dangers -of war; and their desire to live quietly with their neighbours, had -induced them last summer to send three warriors with a pipe to the -Shoshonees, in the plains of Columbia, south of Lewis’s river. These -ministers of peace had been killed by the Shoshonees, against whom the -nation immediately took up arms. They had met them last winter, and -killed forty-two men, with the loss of only three of their own party; -so that having revenged their deceased brethren, they would no longer -make war on the Shoshonees, but receive them as friends. As to going -with us to the plains of the Missouri, they would be very willing to do -so, for though the Blackfoot Indians and the Pahkees had shed much of -their blood, they still wished to live in peace with them. But we had -not yet seen either of these nations, and it would therefore be unsafe -for them to venture, till they were assured of not being attacked by -them. Still, however, some of their young men would accompany us across -the mountains, and if they could effect a peace with their enemies, -the whole nation would go over to the Missouri in the course of next -summer. On our proposal that one of the chiefs should go with us to -the country of the whites, they had not yet decided, but would let us -know before we left them. But that, at all events, the whites might -calculate on their attachment and their best services, for though poor, -their hearts were good. The snow was, however, still so deep on the -mountains, that we should perish in attempting the passage, but if we -waited till after the next full moon, the snows would have sufficiently -melted to enable our horses to subsist on the grass. As soon as this -speech was concluded, captain Lewis replied at some length: with this -they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the pipe, made us a -present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave the Brokenarm -a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all who -should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it was -exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To the -Twistedhair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a -gun, an hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should -have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In -the course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh -exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humour. On our -expressing a wish to cross the river, and form a camp, in order to hunt -and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few -miles distant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to -cross. We invited the Twistedhair to settle near our camp, for he has -several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he -promised to do so. Having now settled all their affairs, the Indians -divided themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of -hiding a bone, already described, as common to all the natives of this -country, which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - The party encamp amongst the Chopunnish, and receive further - evidences of their hospitality--the Indian mode of boiling - bears-flesh--of gelding horses--their mode of decoying the - deer within reach of their arrows--character of the soil and - climate in the Rocky mountains--varieties of climate--character - of the natives--their dress and ornaments--mode of burying - the dead--the party administer medical relief to the - natives--one of the natives restored to the use of his limbs - by sweating, and the curious process by which perspiration was - excited--another proof of Chopunnish hospitably--success of - their sweating prescription on the Indian chief--description of - the horned lizzard, and a variety of insects--the attachment - of the friends of a dying Indian to a tomahawk which he had - stolen from the party, and which they desired to bury with the - body--description of the river Tommanamah--the Indians return - an answer to a proposition made by the party. - - -Tuesday, 15. Our medical visits occupied us till a late hour, after -which we collected our horses and proceeded for two miles in a -southeastern direction, crossing a branch from the right, at the -distance of a mile. We then turned nearly north, and crossing an -extensive open bottom, about a mile and a half wide, reached the bank -of the Kooskooskee. Here we expected the canoe which they had promised; -but although a man had been despatched with it at the appointed time, -he did not arrive before sunset. We therefore encamped, with a number -of Indians who had followed us from the village, and in the morning. - -Wednesday 14, after sending out some hunters, transported the baggage -by means of the canoe, and then drove our horses into the river, over -which they swam without accident, although it is one hundred and fifty -yards wide, and the current very rapid. We then descended the river -about half a mile, and formed our camp on the spot which the Indians -had recommended. It was about forty paces from the river, and formerly -an Indian habitation; but nothing remained at present but a circle -thirty yards in diameter, sunk in the ground about four feet, with -a wall round it of nearly three and a half feet in height. In this -place we deposited our baggage, and round its edges formed our tents -of sticks and grass. This situation is in many respects advantageous. -It is an extensive level bottom, thinly covered with long-leafed pine, -with a rich soil, affording excellent pasture, and supplied, as well -as the high and broken hills on the east and northeast, with the best -game in the neighbourhood; while its vicinity to the river makes it -convenient for the salmon, which are now expected daily. As soon as we -had encamped, Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastilpilp, with about twelve of -their nation, came to the opposite side and began to sing, this being -the usual token of friendship on similar occasions. We sent the canoe -for them, and the two chiefs came over with several of the party, -among whom were the two young men who had given us the two horses in -behalf of the nation. After smoking some time, Hohastilpilp presented -to captain Lewis an elegant gray gelding, which he had brought for -the purpose, and was perfectly satisfied at receiving in return a -handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four pounds of powder. - -The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male and female -bear, the first of which was large and fat, and of a bay colour; the -second meagre, grisly, and of smaller size. They were of the species -common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might well be termed the -variegated bear, for they are found occasionally of a black grisly -brown or red colour. There is every reason to believe them to be of -precisely the same species. Those of different colours are killed -together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white and -bay associated together on the Missouri; and some nearly white were -seen in this neighbourhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to -find any two bears of the same colour, and if the difference in colour -were to constitute a distinction of species, the number would increase -to almost twenty. Soon after they killed a female bear with two cubs. -The mother was black, with a considerable intermixture of white hairs -and a white spot on the breast. One of the cubs was jet black, and -the other of a light reddish brown, or bay colour. The foil of these -variegated bears, are much finer, longer, and more abundant than that -of the common black bear: but the most striking difference between them -is, that the former are larger, have longer tusks, and longer as well -as blunter talons; that they prey more on other animals; that they lie -neither so long nor so closely in winter quarters, and never climb a -tree, however closely pressed by the hunters. This variegated bear, -though specifically the same with those we met on the Missouri, are by -no means so ferocious, probably, because of the scarcity of game, and -the habit of living on roots may have weaned them from the practices -of attacking and devouring animals. Still, however, they are not so -passive as the common black bear, which are also to be found here; for -they have already fought with our hunters, though with less fury than -those on the other side of the mountain. - -A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it was a real -luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately -prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which were thrown a number -of smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down, and -the stones were heated, they were laid next to each other, in a level -position, and covered with a quantity of branches of pine, on which -were placed flitches of the bear, and thus placing the boughs and flesh -alternately for several courses, leaving a thick layer of pine on the -top. On this heap was then poured a small quantity of water, and the -whole covered with earth to the depth of four inches. After remaining -in this state about three hours, the meat was taken off, and was -really more tender than that which we had boiled or roasted, though the -strong flavour of the pine, rendered it disagreeable to our palates. -This repast gave them much satisfaction, for though they sometimes kill -the black bear, yet they attack very reluctantly the furious variegated -bear, and only when they can pursue him on horseback, through the -plains, and shoot him with arrows. - -The stone horses we found so troublesome that we have endeavoured to -exchange them for either mares or geldings; but although we offered two -for one, they were unwilling to barter. It was therefore determined to -castrate them; and being desirous of ascertaining the best method of -performing this operation, two were gelded in the usual manner, while -one of the natives tried the experiment in the Indian way, without -tying the string of the stone (which he assured us was much the better -plan) and carefully scraping the string clean and separating it from -the adjoining veins before cutting it. All the horses recovered; but we -afterwards found that those on which the Indian mode had been tried, -although they bled more profusely at first, neither swell nor appear -to suffer as much as the others, and recovered sooner, so that we are -fully persuaded that the Indian method is preferable to our own. - -May 15. As we shall now be compelled to pass some time in this -neighbourhood, a number of hunters were sent in different directions, -and the rest were employed in completing the camp. From this labour -we, however, exempted five of the men, two of whom are afflicted with -cholic, and the others complain of violent pains in the head, all -which are occasioned, we presume, by the diet of roots, to which they -have recently been confined. We secured the baggage with a shelter -of grass, and made a kind of bower of the under part of an old sail; -the leathern tent being now too rotten for use, while the men formed -very comfortable huts in the shape of the awning of a wagon, by means -of willow poles and grass. Tunnachemootoolt and his young men left -us this morning on their way home; and soon after we were visited by -a party of fourteen Indians on horseback, armed with bows and arrows -going on a hunting excursion. The chief game is the deer, and whenever -the ground will permit, the favourite hunt is on horseback; but in the -woodlands, where this is impracticable, they make use of a decoy. This -consists of the skin of the head and upper part of the neck of a deer, -kept in its natural shape by a frame of small sticks on the inside. -As soon as the hunter perceives a deer he conceals himself, and with -his hand moves the decoy so as to represent a real deer in the act of -feeding, which is done so naturally that the game is seduced within -reach of their arrows. - -We also exercised our horses by driving them together, so as to -accustom them to each other, and incline them the less to separate. The -next morning, - -Friday 16, an Indian returned with one of them, which had strayed away -in the night to a considerable distance, an instance of integrity and -kindness by no means singular among the Chopunnish. Hohastilpilp, -with the rest of the natives left us to-day. The hunters who have -as yet come in, brought nothing, except a few pheasants, so that -we still place our chief reliance on the mush made of roots (among -these the cows and the quamash are the principal) with which we use -a small onion, which grows in great abundance, and which corrects -any bad effects they may have on the stomach. The cows and quamash, -particularly, incline to produce flatulency, to obviate which we -employ a kind of fennel, called by the Shoshonees, yearhah, resembling -anniseed in flavour, and a very agreeable food. - -In the course of the day two other hunters brought in a deer. The -game they said was scarce; but they had wounded three bear as white -as sheep. The last hunters who had left us yesterday, also came in -to-night, with information, that at the distance of five or six miles, -they attempted to cross Collins’s creek, on the other side, where game -is most abundant, but that they could not ford it with their horses, -on account of its depth, and the rapidity of the current. - -Saturday, 17. It rained during the greater part of the night, and our -flimsy covering being insufficient for our protection, we lay in the -water most of the time. What was more unlucky, our chronometer became -wet, and, in consequence, somewhat rusty, but by care we hope to -restore it. The rain continued nearly the whole day, while on the high -plains the snow is falling, and already two or three inches in depth. -The bad weather confined us to the camp and kept the Indians from us, -so that for the first time since we left the narrows of the Columbia, a -day has passed without our being visited by any of the natives. - -The country along the Rocky mountains for several hundred miles in -length and about fifty wide, is a high level plain; in all its parts -extremely fertile, and in many places covered with a growth of tall -long-leafed pine. This plain is chiefly interrupted near the streams -of water, where the hills are steep and lofty; but the soil is good, -being unincumbered by much stone, and possess more timber than the -level country. Under shelter of these hills, the bottom lands skirt -the margin of the rivers, and though narrow and confined, are still -fertile and rarely inundated. Nearly the whole of this wide spread -tract is covered with a profusion of grass and plants, which are at -this time as high as the knee. Among these are a variety of esculent -plants and roots, acquired without much difficulty, and yielding not -only a nutritious, but a very agreeable food. The air is pure and dry, -the climate quite as mild, if not milder, than the same parallels of -latitude in the Atlantic states, and must be equally healthy, for all -the disorders which we have witnessed, may fairly be imputed more -to the nature of the diet than to any intemperance of climate. This -general observation is of course to be qualified, since in the same -tract of country, the degrees of the combination of heat and cold obey -the influence of situation. Thus the rains of the low grounds near -our camp, are snows in the high plains, and while the sun shines with -intense heat in the confined bottoms, the plains enjoy a much colder -air, and the vegetation is retarded at least fifteen days, while at -the foot of the mountains the snows are still many feet in depth; so -that within twenty miles of our camp we observe the rigours of winter -cold, the cool air of spring and the oppressive heat of midsummer. Even -on the plains, however, where the snow has fallen, it seems to do but -little injury to the grass and other plants, which, though apparently -tender and susceptible, are still blooming, at the height of nearly -eighteen inches through the snow. In short, this district affords many -advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield every -object necessary for the subsistence and comfort of civilized man. - -The Chopunnish themselves are in general stout, well formed, and -active; they have high, and many of them aqueline noses, and the -general appearance of the face is cheerful and agreeable, though -without any indication of gayety and mirth. Like most of the Indians -they extract their beards; but the women only pluck the hair from the -rest of the body. That of the men is very often suffered to grow, nor -does there appear to be any natural deficiency in that respect; for we -observe several men, who, if they had adopted the practice of shaving, -would have been as well supplied as ourselves. The dress of both sexes -resembles that of the Shoshonees, and consists of a long shirt reaching -to the thigh, leggings as high as the waist, moccasins and robes, all -of which are formed of skins. - -Their ornaments are beads, shells, and pieces of brass attached to -different parts of the dress, or tied round the arms, neck, wrists, -and over the shoulders: to these are added pearls and beads, suspended -from the ears, and a single shell of wampum through the nose. The -head-dress of the men is a bandeau of fox or otter skin, either with or -without the fur, and sometimes an ornament is tied to a plait of hair, -falling from the crown of the head: that of the women is a cap without -rim, formed of bear grass and cedar bark; while the hair itself, of -both sexes, falls in two rows down the front of the body. Collars of -bears’ claws are also common. But the personal ornament most esteemed -is a sort of breastplate, formed of a strip of otter skin, six inches -wide, cut out of the whole length of the back of the animal, including -the head; this being dressed with the hair on, a hole is made at the -upper end, through which the head of the wearer is placed, and the skin -hangs in front with the tail reaching below the knee, and ornamented -with pieces of pearl, red cloth, and wampum; or, in short, any other -fanciful decoration. Tippets also are occasionally worn. That of -Hohastilpilp was formed of human scalps, and adorned with the thumbs -and fingers of several men slain by him in battle. - -The Chopunnish are among the most amiable men we have seen. Their -character is placid and gentle, rarely moved into passion, yet not -often enlivened by gayety. Their amusements consist in running races, -shooting with arrows at a target, and they partake of the great and -prevailing vice of gambling. They are, however, by no means so much -attached to baubles as the generality of Indians, but are anxious -to obtain articles of utility, such as knives, tomahawks, kettles, -blankets, and awls for moccasins. They have also suffered so much from -the superiority of their enemies, that they are equally desirous of -procuring arms and ammunition, which they are gradually acquiring, for -the band of Tunnachemootoolt have already six guns, which they acquired -from the Minnetarees. - -The Chopunnish bury their dead in sepulchres, formed of boards, -constructed like the roof of a house. The body is rolled in skins and -laid one over another, separated by a board only, both above and below. -We have sometimes seen their dead buried in wooden boxes, and rolled -in skins in the manner above mentioned. They sacrifice their horses, -canoes, and every other species of property to their dead; the bones of -many horses are seen lying round their sepulchres. - -Among the reptiles common to this country are the two species of -innocent snakes already described, and the rattlesnake, which last is -of the same species as that of the Missouri, and though abundant here, -is the only poisonous snake we have seen between the Pacific and the -Missouri. Besides these there are the common black lizard and horned -lizard. Of frogs there are several kinds, such as the small green -tree frog, the small frog common in the United States, which sings in -the spring of the year, a species of frog frequenting the water, much -larger than the bull-frog, and in shape between the delicate length of -the bull-frog, and the shorter and less graceful form of the toad like; -the last of which, however, its body is covered with little pustules, -or lumps: we have never heard it make a noise of any kind. Neither the -toad bull-frog; the moccasin-snake, nor the copperhead-snake are to be -found here. Captain Lewis killed a snake near the camp three feet and -eleven inches in length, and much the colour of the rattlesnake. There -was no poisonous tooth to be found. It had two hundred and eighteen -scuta on the abdomen, and fifty-nine squama or half formed scuta on -the tail. The eye was of a moderate size: the iris of a dark yellowish -brown, and the pupil black. There was nothing remarkable in the form -of the head, which was not so wide across the jaws as that of the -poisonous class of snakes usually are. - -There is a species of lizard, which we have called the horned lizard, -about the size and much resembling in figure the ordinary black lizard. -The belly is, notwithstanding, broader, the tail shorter, and the -action much slower than the ordinary lizard. It crawls like the toad, -is of a brown colour, and interspersed with yellowish brown spots; -it is covered with minute shells, interspersed with little horny -projections like prickles on the upper part of the body. The belly and -throat resemble the frogs, and are of a light yellowish brown. The -edge of the belly is regularly beset with these horny projections, -which give to those edges a serrate figure; the eye is small and of a -dark colour. Above and behind the eyes are several projections of the -bone, which being armed at the extremities with a firm black substance, -having the appearance of horns sprouting from the head, has induced -us to call it the horned lizard. These animals are found in great -abundance in the sandy parts of the plains, and after a shower of rain -are seen basking in the sun. For the greatest part of the time they are -concealed in holes. They are found in great numbers on the banks of -the Missouri, and in the plains through which we have passed above the -Wollawollahs. - -Most of the insects common to the United States are seen in this -country: such as the butterfly, the common housefly, the blowingfly, -the horsefly, except one species of it, the gold-coloured earfly, the -place of which is supplied by a fly of a brown colour, which attaches -itself to the same part of the horse, and is equally troublesome. -There are likewise nearly all the varieties of beatles known in the -Atlantic states, except the large cow beatle, and the black beatle, -commonly called the tumblebug. Neither the hornet, the wasp, nor -the yellowjacket inhabit this part of the country, but there is an -insect resembling the last of these, though much larger, which is very -numerous, particularly in the Rocky mountains and on the waters of the -Columbia; the body and abdomen are yellow, with transverse circles of -black, the head black, and the wings, which are four in number, of a -dark brown colour: their nests are built in the ground, and resemble -that of the hornet, with an outer covering to the comb. These insects -are fierce, and sting very severely, so that we found them very -troublesome in frightening our horses as we passed the mountains. The -silkworm is also found here, as well as the humble-bee, though the -honey-bee is not. - -May 18. Twelve hunters set out this morning after the bear, which are -now our chief dependence; but as they are now ferocious, the hunters -henceforward never go except in pairs. Soon after they left us, a party -of Chopunnish erected a hut on the opposite side of the river in order -to watch the salmon, which is expected to arrive every day. For this -purpose they have constructed with sticks, a kind of wharf, projecting -about ten feet into the river, and three feet above its surface, on -the extremity of which one of the fishermen exercised himself with a -scooping net, similar to that used in our country; but after several -hours’ labour he was still unsuccessful. In the course of the morning -three Indians called at our camp and told us that they had been hunting -near the place where we met the Chopunnish last autumn, and which is -called by then the quamash grounds, but after roaming about for several -days had killed nothing. We gave them a small piece of meat, which they -said they would keep for their small children, which they said were -very hungry, and then, after smoking, took leave of us. Some of our -hunters returned almost equally unsuccessful. They had gone over the -whole country between Collins’s creek and the Kooskooskee, to their -junction, at the distance of ten miles, without seeing either a deer or -bear, and at last brought in a single hawk and a salmon dropped by an -eagle. This last was not in itself considerable, but gave us hopes of -soon seeing that fish in the river, an event which we ardently desire, -for though the rapid rise of the river denotes a great decrease of snow -on the mountains, yet we shall not be able to leave our camp for some -time. - -Monday, 19. After a cold rainy night, during a greater part of which we -lay in the water, the weather became fair, and we then sent some men -to a village above us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. -They carried with them for this purpose a small collection of alls, -knitting pins, and armbands, with which they obtained several bushels -of the root of cows, and some bread of the same material. They were -followed too by a train of invalids from the village, who came to ask -for our assistance. The men were generally afflicted with sore eyes, -but the women had besides this a variety of other disorders, chiefly -rheumatic, a violent pain and weakness in the loins, which is a common -complaint among the females, and one of them seemed much dejected, and -as we thought, from the account of her disease, hysterical. We gave her -thirty drops of laudanum, and after administering eye-water and rubbing -the rheumatic patients with volatile linament, and giving cathartics to -others, they all thought themselves much relieved, and returned highly -satisfied to the village. We were fortunate enough to retake one of the -horses on which we crossed the Rocky mountains in the autumn, and which -had become almost wild since that time. - -Tuesday, 20. Again it rained during the night, and the greater part of -this day. Our hunters were out in different directions, but though they -saw a bear and a deer or two, they only killed one of the latter, which -proved to be of the mule-deer species. The next day, - -Wednesday 21, finding the rain still continue we left our ragged sail -tent, and formed a hut with willow poles and grass. The rest of the -men were occupied in building a canoe for present use, as the Indians -promise to give us a horse for it when we leave them. We received -nothing from our hunters except a single sandhill crane, which are -very abundant in this neighbourhood, and consumed at dinner the last -morsel of meat which we have. As there now seems but little probability -of our procuring a stock of dried meat, and the fish is as yet an -uncertain resource, we made a division of all our stock of merchandise, -so as to enable the men to purchase a store of roots and bread for the -mountains. We might ourselves collect those roots, but as there are -several species of hemlock growing among the cows, and difficult to -be distinguished from that plant, we are afraid to suffer the men to -collect them, lest the party might be poisoned by mistaking them. On -parcelling out the stores, the stock of each man was found to consist -of only one awl and one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermillion, two -needles, a few skeins of thread, and about a yard of riband--a slender -means of bartering for our subsistence; but the men have been now so -much accustomed to privations, that neither the want of meat nor the -scanty funds of the party, excite the least anxiety among them. - -Thursday, 22. We availed ourselves of the fair weather to dry our -baggage and store of roots, and being still without meat, killed one -of our colts, intending to reserve the other three for the mountains. -In the afternoon we were amused by a large party of Indians, on the -opposite side of the river, hunting on horseback. After riding at full -speed down the steep hills, they at last drove the deer into the river, -where we shot it, and two Indians immediately pursued it on a raft, and -took it. Several hunters, who had gone to a considerable distance near -the mountains, returned with five deer. They had purchased also two red -salmon trout, which the Indians say remain in this river during the -greater part of the winter, but are not good at this season, as it in -fact appeared, for they were very meagre. The salmon, we understand, -are now arrived at no great distance, in Lewis’s river, but some days -will yet elapse before they come up to this place. This, as well as the -scarcity of game, made us wish to remove lower down; but on examination -we found that there was no place in that direction calculated for a -camp, and therefore resolved to remain in our present position. Some -uneasiness has been excited by a report, that two nights ago a party -of Shoshonees had surrounded a Chopunnish house, on the south side of -Lewis’s river, but the inhabitants having discovered their intentions, -had escaped without injury. - -Friday, 23. The hunters were sent out to make a last effort to procure -provisions, but after examining the whole country between Collins’s -creek and the Kooskooskee, they found nothing except a few pheasants -of the dark brown kind. In the meantime we were visited by four Indians -who had come from a village on Lewis’s river, at the distance of two -days’ ride, who came for the purpose of procuring a little eye-water: -the extent of our medical fame is not a little troublesome, but we -rejoice at any circumstance which enables us to relieve these poor -creatures, and therefore willingly washed their eyes, after which they -returned home. - -Saturday, 24. This proved the warmest day we have had since our arrival -here. Some of our men visited the village of the Brokenarm, and -exchanged some awls, which they had made of the links of a small chain -belonging to one of their steel traps, for a plentiful supply of roots. - -Besides administering medical relief to the Indians, we are obliged to -devote much of our time to the care of our own invalids. The child of -Sacajawea is very unwell; and with one of the men we have ventured an -experiment of a very robust nature. He has been for some time sick, -but has now recovered his flesh, eats heartily and digests well, but -has so great a weakness in the loins that he cannot walk nor even -sit upright without extreme pain. After we had in vain exhausted the -resources of our art, one of the hunters mentioned that he had known -persons in similar situations restored by violent sweats, and at the -request of the patient, we permitted the remedy to be applied. For -this purpose, a hole about four feet deep and three in diameter was -dug in the earth, and heated well by a large fire in the bottom of it. -The fire was then taken out, and an arch formed over the hole by means -of willow poles, and covered with several blankets, so as to make a -perfect awning. The patient being stripped naked, was seated under -this on a bench, with a piece of board for his feet, and with a jug of -water sprinkled the bottom and sides of the hole, so as to keep up as -hot a steam as he could bear. After remaining twenty minutes in this -situation, he was taken out, immediately plunged twice in cold water, -and brought back to the hole, where he resumed the vapour bath. During -all this time he drank copiously a strong infusion of horsemint, which -was used as a substitute for the seneca root, which our informant -said he had seen employed on these occasions, but of which there is -none in this country. At the end of three quarters of an hour, he was -again withdrawn from the hole, carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool -gradually. This operation was performed yesterday, and this morning -he walked about, and is nearly free from pain. About eleven o’clock a -canoe arrived with three Indians, one of whom was the poor creature -who had lost the use of his limbs, and for whose recovery the natives -seem very anxious, as he is a chief of considerable rank among them. -His situation is beyond the reach of our skill. He complains of no pain -in any peculiar limb, and we therefore think his disorder cannot be -rheumatic, as his limbs would have been more diminished if his disease -had been a paralytic affection. We had already ascribed it to his diet -of roots, and had recommended his living on fish and flesh, and using -the cold bath every morning, with a dose of cream of tarter, or flowers -of sulphur, every third day. Those prescriptions seem to have been of -little avail, but as he thinks himself somewhat better for them, we -concealed our ignorance by giving him a few drops of laudanum and a -little portable soup, with a promise of sweating him, as we had done -our own man. On attempting it however, in the morning, - -Sunday 25, we found that he was too weak to sit up or be supported in -the hole: we therefore told the Indians that we knew of no other remedy -except frequent perspirations in their own sweat-houses, accompanied -by drinking large quantities of the decoction of horsemint, which we -pointed out to them. Three hunters set out to hunt towards the Quamash -flats if they could pass Collins’s creek. Others crossed the river -for the same purpose, and one of the men was sent to a village on the -opposite side, about eight miles above us. Nearly all the inhabitants -were either hunting, digging roots, or fishing in Lewis’s river, from -which they had brought several fine salmon. In the course of the day, -some of our hunters wounded a female bear with two cubs, one of which -was white and the other perfectly black. - -The Indians who accompanied the sick chief are so anxious for his -safety that they remained with us all night, and in the morning, - -Monday 26, when we gave him some cream of tartar, and portable soup, -with directions how to treat him, they still lingered about us in hopes -we might do something effectual, though we desired them to take him -home. - -The hunters sent out yesterday returned with Hohastilpilp, and a number -of inferior chiefs and warriors. They had passed Commearp creek at -the distance of one and a half miles, and a larger creek three miles -beyond; they then went on till they were stopped by a large creek ten -miles above our camp, and finding it too deep and rapid to pass, they -returned home. On their way, they stopped at a village four miles up -the second creek, which we have never visited, and where they purchased -bread and roots on very moderate terms; an article of intelligence -very pleasing at the present moment, when our stock of meat is again -exhausted. We have however still agreeable prospects, for the river is -rising fast, as the snows visibly diminish, and we saw a salmon in the -river to-day. We also completed our canoe. - -Tuesday 27. The horse which the Indians gave us some time ago, had gone -astray; but in our present dearth of provisions we searched for him -and killed him. Observing that we were in want of food, Hohastilpilp -informed us that most of the horses which we saw running at large -belonged to him or his people, and requested that whenever we wished -any meat we would make use of them without restraint. We have, indeed, -on more than one occasion, had to admire the generosity of this -Indian, whose conduct presents a model of what is due to strangers in -distress. A party was sent to the village discovered yesterday, and -returned with a large supply of bread and roots. Sergeant Ordway and -two men were also despatched to Lewis’s river, about half a day’s ride -to the south, where we expect to obtain salmon, which are said to be -very abundant at that place. The three men who had attempted to go -to the Quamah flats, returned with five deer; but although they had -proceeded some distance up Collins’s creek, it continued too deep for -them to cross. The Indians who accompanied the chief, were so anxious -to have the operation of sweating him performed under our inspection, -that we determined to gratify them by making a second attempt. The -hole was therefore enlarged, and the father of the chief, a very good -looking old man, went in with him, and held him in a proper position. -This strong evidence of feeling is directly opposite to the received -opinions of the insensibility of savages, nor are we less struck by -the kindness and attention paid to the sick man by those who are -unconnected with him, which are the more surprising, as the long -illness of three years might be supposed to exhaust their sympathy. We -could not produce as complete a perspiration as we desired, and after -he was taken out, he complained of suffering considerable pain, which -we relieved with a few drops of laudanum, and he then rested well. The -next morning, - -Wednesday 28, he was able to use his arms, and feels better than he has -done for many months, and set up during the greater part of the day. - -We sent to the village of Tunnachemootolt for bread and roots, and a -party of hunters set out to hunt up a creek, about eight miles above -us. In the evening, another party, who had been so fortunate as to find -a ford across Collins’s creek, returned from the Quamah flats with -eight deer, of which they saw great numbers, though there were but few -bears. Having now a tolerable stock of meat, we were occupied during -the following day, - -Thursday 29, in various engagements in the camp. The Indian chief is -still rapidly recovering, and for the first time during the last twelve -months, had strength enough to wash his face. We had intended to repeat -the sweating to-day, but as the weather was cloudy, with occasional -rain, we declined it. This operation, though violent, seems highly -efficacious; for our own man, on whom the experiment was first made, is -recovering his strength very fast, and the restoration of the chief is -wonderful. He continued to improve, and on the following day, - -Friday 30, after a very violent sweating, was able to move one of his -legs and thighs, and some of his toes; the fingers and arms being -almost entirely restored to their former strength. Parties were sent -out as usual to hunt and trade with the Indians. Among others, two -of the men who had not yet exchanged their stock of merchandise for -roots, crossed the river for that purpose, in our boat. But as they -reached the opposite shore, the violence of the current drove the boat -broadside against some trees, and she immediately filled and went to -the bottom. With difficulty one of the men was saved, but the boat -itself, with three blankets, a blanket-coat, and their small pittance -of merchandise, were irrevocably lost. - -Saturday, 31. Two men visited the Indian village, where they purchased -a dressed bear skin, of a uniform pale reddish brown colour, which the -Indians called yackah in contradistinction to hohhost, or the white -bear. This remark induced us to inquire more particularly into their -opinions as to the several species of bears; and we therefore produced -all the skins of that animal which we had killed at this place, and -also one very nearly white, which we had purchased. The natives -immediately classed the white, the deep and the pale grizly red, the -grizly dark brown, in short, all those with the extremities of the hair -of a white or frosty colour, without regard to the colour of the ground -of the foil, under the name of hohhost. They assured us, that they -were all of the same species with the white bear; that they associated -together, had longer nails than the others, and never climbed trees. -On the other hand, the black skins, those which were black, with a -number of entire white hairs intermixed, or with a white breast, the -uniform bay, the brown, and light reddish brown, were ranged under the -class yackkah, and were said to resemble each other in being smaller, -and having shorter nails than the white bear, in climbing trees, -and being so little vicious that they could be pursued with safety. -This distinction of the Indians seems to be well founded, and we are -inclined to believe, - -First, That the white or grizly bear of this neighbourhood form a -distinct species, which moreover is the same with those of the same -colour on the upper part of the Missouri, where the other species are -not found. - -Second, That the black and reddish brown, &c. is a second species, -equally distinct from the white bear of this country, as from the -black bear of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, which two last seem to -form only one species. The common black bear are indeed unknown in -this country; for the bear of which we are speaking, though in most -respects similar, differs from it in having much finer, thicker, and -longer hair, with a greater proportion of fur mixed with it, and also -in having a variety of colours, while the common black bear has no -intermixture or change of colour, but is of a uniform black. - -In the course of the day the natives brought us another of our original -stock of horses, of which we have now recovered all except two, and -those, we are informed, were taken back by our Shoshonee guide, when he -returned home. They amount to sixty-five, and most of them fine strong -active horses, in excellent order. - -Sunday, June 1. Two of our men who had been up the river to trade -with the Indians, returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite to the -village, their horse fell with his load, down a steep cliff, into the -river, across which he swam. An Indian on the opposite side, drove -him back to them, but in crossing most of the articles were lost, -and the paint melted. Understanding their intentions, the Indians -attempted to come over to them, but having no canoe, were obliged to -use a raft, which struck on a rock, upset, and the whole score of roots -and bread were destroyed. This failure completely exhausted our stock -of merchandise; but the remembrance of what we suffered from cold and -hunger during the passage of the Rocky mountains, makes us anxious to -increase our means of subsistence and comfort when we again encounter -the same inconvenience. We therefore created a new fund, by cutting off -the buttons from our clothes, preparing some eye-water, and basilicon, -to which were added some phials, and small tin boxes, in which we had -once kept phosphorus. With this cargo two men set out in the morning, - -Monday 2, to trade, and brought home three bushels of roots and some -bread, which, in our situation, was as important as the return of an -East India ship. In the meantime, several hunters went across Collins’s -creek to hunt on the Quamash grounds, and the Indians informed us that -there were great quantities of moose to the southeast of the east -branch of Lewis’s river, which they call the Tommanamah. We had lately -heard that some Indians who reside at some distance, on the south side -of the Kooskooskee, are in possession of two tomahawks, one of which -was left at our camp at Musquitoe creek, the other had been stolen -while we were encamped at the Chopunnish last autumn. This last we were -anxious to obtain, in order to give to the relations of our unfortunate -companion, serjeant Floyd, to whom it once belonged. We therefore sent -Drewyer yesterday with Neeshnepahkeeook and Hohastilpilp, the two -chiefs, to demand it. On their arrival, it seemed that the present -owner, who had purchased it from the thief, was himself at the point -of death; so that his relations were unwilling to give it up, as they -meant to bury it in the grave with the deceased. But the influence of -Neeshnepahkeeook at length succeeded; and they consented to surrender -the tomahawk on receiving two strands of beads and a handkerchief, -from Drewyer, and from each of the chiefs a horse, to be killed at the -funeral of the deceased, according to the custom of the country. - -Soon after their return, serjeant Ordway and his party, for whose -safety we had now become extremely anxious, came home from Lewis’s -river, with some roots of cows and seventeen salmon. The distance, -however, from which they were brought, was so great, that most of -them were nearly spoiled; but such as continued sound, were extremely -delicious, the flesh being of a fine rose colour, with a small mixture -of yellow, and so fat that they were cooked very well without the -addition of any oil or grease. - -When they set out on the 27th, they had hoped to reach the salmon -fishery in the course of that day, but the route by which the guides -led them was so circuitous, that they rode seventy miles before they -reached their place of destination, in the evening of the twenty-ninth. -After going for twenty miles up the Commearp creek, through an open -plain, broken only by the hills and timber along the creek, they then -entered a high, irregular, mountainous country, the soil of which -was fertile, and well supplied with pine. Without stopping to hunt, -although they saw great quantities of deer, and some of the bighorn, -they hastened for thirty miles across this district to the Tommanamah, -or east branch of Lewis’s river; and not finding any salmon, descended -that stream for twenty miles, to the fishery at a short distance below -its junction with the south branch. Both these forks appear to come -from or enter a mountainous country. The Tommanamah itself, they said, -was about one hundred and fifty yards wide; its banks, for the most -part, formed of solid perpendicular rocks, rising to a great height, -and as they passed along some of its hills, they found that the snow -had not yet disappeared, and the grass was just springing up. During -its whole course it presented one continued rapid, till at the fishery -itself, where the river widens to the space of two hundred yards, the -rapid is nearly as considerable as at the great rapids of the Columbia. -Here the Indians have erected a large house of split timber, one -hundred and fifty feet long, and thirty-five wide, with a flat roof; -and at this season is much resorted to by the men, while the women are -employed in collecting roots. After remaining a day, and purchasing -some fish, they returned home. - -Tuesday, 3. Finding that the salmon has not yet appeared along the -shores, as the Indians assured us they would in a few days, and that -all the salmon which they themselves use, are obtained from Lewis’s -river, we begin to lose our hopes of subsisting on them. We are too -poor, and at too great a distance from Lewis’s river, to purchase -fish at that place, and it is not probable that the river will fall -sufficiently to take them before we leave this place. Our Indian -friends sent an express to-day over the mountains to Traveller’s-rest, -in order to procure intelligence from the Ootlashoots, a band of -Flatheads who have wintered on the east side of the mountains, and -the same band which we first met on that river. As the route was -deemed practicable for this express, we also proposed setting out, but -the Indians dissuaded us from attempting it, as many of the creeks, -they said, were still too deep to be forded; the roads very deep and -slippery, and no grass as yet for our horses; but in twelve or fourteen -days we shall no longer meet with the same obstacles: we therefore -determined to set out in a few days for the Quamash flats, in order to -lay in a store of provisions, so as to cross the mountains about the -middle of the month. - -For the two following days we continued hunting in our own -neighbourhood, and by means of our own exertions, and trading with the -Indians for trifling articles, succeeded in procuring as much bread -and roots, besides other food, as will enable us to subsist during the -passage of the mountains. The old chief in the meantime gradually -recovered the use of his limbs, and our own man was nearly restored to -his former health. The Indians who had been with us, now returned, and -invited us to their village on the following day, - -Friday, June 6, to give us their final answer to a number of proposals -which we had made to them. Neeshnepahkeeook then informed us, that -they could not accompany us, as we wished, to the Missouri; but that -in the latter end of the summer they meant to cross the mountain and -spend the winter to the eastward. We had also requested some of their -young men to go with us, so as to effect a reconciliation between them -and the Pahkees, in case we should meet these last. He answered, that -some of their young men would go with us, but they were not selected -for that purpose, nor could they be until a general meeting of the -whole nation, who were to meet in the plain on Lewis’s river, at the -head of Commearp. This meeting would take place in ten of twelve days, -and if we set out before that time, the young men should follow us. We -therefore depend but little on their assistance as guides, but hope to -engage for that purpose, some of the Ootlashoots near Traveller’s-rest -creek. Soon after this communication, which was followed by a present -of dried quamash, we were visited by Hohastilpilp and several others, -among whom were the two young chiefs who had given us horses some time -ago. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - The party mingle in the diversions of the Willetpos Indians, - a tribe hitherto unnoticed--their joy on the prospect of - a return--description of the vegetables growing on the - Rocky mountains--various preparations made to resume their - journey--the party set out, and arrive at Hungry creek--the - serious and desponding difficulties that obstructed their - progress---they are compelled to return, and to wait for - a guide across the mountains--their distress for want of - provisions--they resolve to return to the Quamash flats--they - are at last so fortunate as to procure Indian guides, with whom - they resume their journey to the falls of the Missouri--the - danger of the route described--their scarcity of provisions, - and the danger of their journey, their course lying along the - ridges of the mountains--description of the warm springs, where - the party encamp--the fondness of the Indians for bathing in - them. - - -Saturday, June 7, 1806. The two young chiefs returned after breakfast -to their village on Commearp creek, accompanied by several of our men, -who were sent to purchase ropes and bags for packing, in exchange for -some parts of an old seine, bullets, old files and pieces of iron. In -the evening they returned with a few strings but no bags. Hohastilpilp -crossed the river in the course of the day, and brought with him a -horse, which he gave one of our men who had previously made him a -present of a pair of Canadian shoes or shoepacks. We were all occupied -in preparing packs and saddles for our journey; and as we intend to -visit the Quamash flats on the tenth, in order to lay in a store of -provisions for the journey over the mountains, we do not suffer the men -to disturb the game in that neighbourhood. - -Sunday, 8. The Cutnose visited us this morning with ten or twelve -warriors; among these were two belonging to a band of Chopunnish, -which we had not yet seen, who call themselves Willetpos, and reside -on the south side of Lewis’s river. One of them gave a good horse, -which he rode, in exchange for one of ours, which was unable to cross -the mountain, on receiving a tomahawk in addition. We were also -fortunate in exchanging two other horses of inferior value for others -much better, without giving any thing else to the purchaser. After -these important purchases, several foot races were run between our men -and the Indians: the latter, who are very active, and fond of these -races, proved themselves very expert, and one of them was as fleet -as our swiftest runners. After the races were over, the men divided -themselves into two parties and played prison bass, an exercise which -we are desirous of encouraging, before we begin the passage over the -mountains, as several of them are becoming lazy from inaction. At night -these games were concluded by a dance. One of the Indians informed us -that we could not pass the mountains before the next full moon, or -about the first of July; because, if we attempted it before that time, -the horses would be forced to travel without food three days on the top -of the mountains. This intelligence was disagreeable, as it excited a -doubt as to the most proper time for passing the mountains; but having -no time to lose, we are determined to risk the hazards, and start as -soon as the Indians generally consider it practicable, which is about -the middle of this month. - -Monday, 9. Our success yesterday encouraged us to attempt to exchange -some more of our horses, whose backs were unsound, but we could dispose -of one only. Hohastilpilp, who visited us yesterday, left us with -several Indians, for the plains near Lewis’s river, where the whole -nation are about to assemble. The Brokenarm too, with all his people, -stopped on their way to the general rendezvous, at the same place. -The Cutnose, or Neeshnepahkeeook, borrowed a horse, and rode down a -few miles after some young eagles. He soon returned with two of the -gray kind, nearly grown, which he meant to raise for the sake of the -feathers. The young chief, who some time since made us a present of -two horses, came with a party of his people and passed the night with -us. The river, which is about one hundred and fifty yards wide, has -been discharging vast bodies of water, but notwithstanding its depth, -the water has been nearly transparent, and its temperature quite as -cold as our best springs. For several days, however, the river has been -falling, and is now six feet lower than it has been, a strong proof -that the great body of snow has left the mountains. It is, indeed, -nearly at the same height as when we arrived here; a circumstance -which the Indians consider as indicating the time when the mountains -may be crossed. We shall wait, however, a few days, because the roads -must still be wet and slippery, and the grass on the mountains will be -improved in a short time. The men are in high spirits at the prospect -of setting out, and amused themselves during the afternoon with -different games. - -Tuesday, 10. After collecting our horses, which took much time, we set -out at eleven o’clock for the Quamash flats. Our stock is now very -abundant, each man being well mounted, with a small load on a second -horse, and several supernumerary ones, in case of accident or want of -food. We ascended the river hills, which are very high, and three miles -in extent; our course being north 22° east, and then turned to north -15° west, for two miles till we reached Collins’s creek. It is deep and -difficult to cross, but we passed without any injury, except wetting -some of our provisions, and then proceeded due north for five miles -to the eastern edge of the Quamash flats near where we first met the -Chopunnish in the autumn. We encamped on the bank of a small stream, in -a point of woods, bordering the extensive level and beautiful prairie -which is intersected by several rivulets, and as the quamash is now in -blossom, presents a perfect resemblance of lakes of clear water. - -A party of Chopunnish, who had overtaken us a few miles above, halted -for the night with us, and mentioned that they too had come down to -hunt in the flats, though we fear they expect that we will provide for -them during their stay. - -The country through which we passed is generally free from stone, -extremely fertile, and supplied with timber, consisting of several -species of fir, long-leafed pine and larch. The undergrowth is -chokeberry, near the water courses, and scattered through the country, -black alder, a large species of red root now in bloom, a plant -resembling the paw-paw in its leaf, and bearing a berry with five -valves of a deep purple colour. There were also two species of sumach, -the purple haw, seven bark, serviceberry, gooseberry, the honeysuckle, -bearing a white berry, and a species of dwarf pine, ten or twelve feet -high, which might be confounded with the young pine of the long-leafed -species, except that the former bears a cone of a globular form, with -small scales, and that its leaves are in fascicles of two resembling -in length and appearance the common pitch pine. We also observed two -species of wild rose, both quinquepetalous, both of a damask red -colour, and similar in the stem; but one of them is as large as the -common red rose of our gardens; its leaf too is somewhat larger than -that of the other species of wild rose, and the apex as we saw them -last year, were more than three times the size of the common wild rose. - -We saw many sandhill cranes, and some ducks in the marshes near our -camp, and a greater number of burrowing squirrels, some of which -we killed, and found them as tender and well flavoured as our gray -squirrels. - -Wednesday, 11. All our hunters set out by daylight; but on their return -to dinner, had killed nothing except a black bear and two deer. Five -of the Indians also begun to hunt, but they were quite unsuccessful, -and in the afternoon returned to their village. Finding that the game -had become shy and scarce, the hunters set out after dinner with orders -to stay out during the night, and hunt at a greater distance from the -camp, in ground less frequented. But the next day they returned with -nothing except two deer. They were therefore again sent out, and about -noon the following day, seven of them came in with eight deer out of a -number, as well as a bear, which they had wounded, but could not take. -In the meantime we had sent two men forward about eight miles to a -prairie on this side of Collins’s creek, with orders to hunt till our -arrival. Two other hunters returned towards night, but they had killed -only one deer, which they had hung up in the morning, and it had been -devoured by the buzzards. An Indian who had spent the last evening -with us, exchanged a horse for one of ours, which being sick, we gave -a small axe and a knife in addition. He seemed very much pleased, and -set out immediately to his village, lest we should change our minds and -give up the bargain, which is perfectly allowable in Indian traffic. -The hunters resumed the chase in the morning, but the game is now so -scarce that they killed only one deer. We therefore cut up and dried -all the meat we had collected, packed up all our baggage, and hobbled -our horses to be in readiness to set out. But in the morning, - -Sunday, 15, they had straggled to such a distance, that we could not -collect them without great difficulty, and as it rained very hard, we -waited till it should abate. It soon, however, showed every appearance -of a settled rain, and we therefore set out at ten o’clock. We crossed -the prairie at the distance of eight miles, where we had sent our -hunters, and found two deer which they had hung up for us. Two and a -half miles farther, we overtook the two men at Collins’s creek. They -had killed a third deer, and had seen one large and another white bear. -After dining we proceeded up the creek about half a mile, then crossing -through a high broken country for about ten miles, reached an eastern -branch of the same creek, near which we encamped in the bottom, after a -ride of twenty-two miles. The rains during the day made the roads very -slippery, and joined to the quantity of fallen timber, rendered our -progress slow and laborious to the horses, many of which fell through -without suffering any injury. The country through which we passed -has a thick growth of long-leafed pine, with some pitch-pine, larch, -white-pine, white cedar or arbor-vitæ of large size, and a variety of -firs. The undergrowth consists chiefly of reed root, from six to ten -feet in height, with the other species already enumerated. The soil is -in general good, and has somewhat of a red cast, like those near the -southwest mountain in Virginia. We saw in the course of our ride the -speckled woodpecker, the logcock or large woodpecker, the bee martin, -and found the nest of a humming bird, which had just begun to lay its -eggs. - -Monday, 16. We readily collected our horses, and having taken -breakfast, proceeded at six o’clock up the creek, through handsome -meadows of fine grass, and a great abundance of quamash. At the -distance of two miles we crossed the creek, and ascended a ridge in a -direction towards the northeast. Fallen timber still obstructed our way -so much, that it was eleven o’clock before we had made seven miles, to -a small branch of Hungry creek. In the hollows and on the north side of -the hills large quantities of snow still remain, in some places to the -depth of two or three feet. Vegetation too is proportionally retarded, -the dog-tooth violet being just in bloom, and the honeysuckle, -huckleberry, and a small species of white maple, beginning to put forth -their leaves. These appearances in a part of the country comparatively -low, are ill omens of the practicability of passing the mountains. -But being determined to proceed, we halted merely to take a hasty -meal, while the horses were grazing, and then resumed our march. The -route was through thick woods and over high hills, intersected by deep -ravines and obstructed by fallen timber. We found much difficulty also -in following the road, the greater part of it being now covered with -snow, which lies in great masses eight or ten feet deep, and would be -impassable were it not so firm as to bear our horses. Early in the -evening we reached Hungry creek, at the place where captain Clarke -had left a horse for us as we passed in September, and finding a small -glade with some grass, though not enough for our horses, we thought -it better to halt for the night, lest by going further we should find -nothing for the horses to eat. Hungry creek is small at this place, -but is deep, and discharges a torrent of water, perfectly transparent, -and cold as ice. During the fifteen miles of our route to-day, the -principal timber was the pitch-pine, white-pine, larch, and fir. The -long-leafed pine extends but a small distance on this side of Collins’s -creek, and the white cedar does not reach beyond the branch of Hungry -creek on which we dined. In the early part of the day we saw the -columbine, the bluebell, and the yellow flowering pea in bloom. There -is also in these mountains a great quantity of angelica, stronger to -the taste, and more highly scented than that common in the United -States. The smell is very pleasant, and the natives, after drying and -cutting them into small pieces, wear them in strings around their necks. - -Tuesday 17. We find lately that the air is pleasant in the course of -the day, but notwithstanding the shortness of the night, becomes very -cold before morning. At an early hour we collected our horses, and -proceeded down the creek, which we crossed twice with much difficulty -and danger, in consequence of its depth and rapidity. We avoided two -other crossings of the same kind, by crossing over a steep and rocky -hill. At the distance of seven miles, the road begins the ascent of the -main ridges which divide the waters of the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee -rivers. We followed it up a mountain for about three miles, when -we found ourselves enveloped in snow, from twelve to fifteen feet -in depth, even on the south side of the mountain, with the fullest -exposure to the sun. The winter now presented itself in all its -rigours, the air was keen and cold, no vestige of vegetation was to -be seen, and our hands and feet were benumbed. We halted at the sight -of this new difficulty. We already knew, that to wait till the snows -of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable us to distinguish -the road, would defeat our design of returning to the United States -this season. We now found also that as the snow bore our horses very -well, travelling was infinitely easier than it was last fall, when the -rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. But it would -require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of Colt creek, -even if we were able to follow the proper ridges of the mountains; and -the danger of missing our direction is exceedingly great, while every -track is covered with snow. During these five days too we have no -chance of finding either grass or underwood for our horses, the snow -being so deep. To proceed, therefore, under such circumstances, would -be to hazard our being bewildered in the mountains, to insure the loss -of our horses, and should we even be so fortunate as to escape with our -lives, we might be obliged to abandon all our papers and collections. -It was therefore decided not to venture any further; to deposit here -all the baggage and provisions, for which we had no immediate use, and -reserving only subsistence for a few days, return while our horses were -yet strong, to some spot where we might live by hunting, till a guide -could be procured to conduct us across the mountains. Our baggage was -placed on scaffolds and carefully covered, as were also the instruments -and papers, which we thought it safer to leave than to risk them over -the roads and creeks by which we came. Having completed this operation, -we set out at one o’clock, and treading back our steps, reached Hungry -creek, which we ascended for two miles, and finding some scanty grass, -we encamped. The rain fell during the greater part of the evening, and -as this was the first time that we have ever been compelled to make any -retrograde movement, we feared that it might depress the spirits of -the men; but though somewhat dejected at the circumstance, the obvious -necessity precluded all repining. During the night our horses straggled -in search of food to a considerable distance among the thick timber on -the hill sides, nor could we collect them till nine o’clock the next -morning, - -Wednesday, 18. Two of them were however still missing, and we therefore -directed two of the party to remain and hunt for them. At the same -time, we despatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish, in the -plains beyond the Kooskooskee, in order to hasten the arrival of the -Indians who had promised to accompany us; or at any rate, to procure -a guide to conduct us to Traveller’s-rest. For this purpose they took -a rifle, as a reward to any one who would engage to conduct us, with -directions to increase the reward, if necessary, by an offer of two -other guns, to be given immediately, and ten horses, at the falls of -the Missouri: we then resumed our route. In crossing Hungry creek, one -of the horses fell, and rolling over with the rider, was driven for -a considerable distance among the rocks; but he fortunately escaped -without losing his gun or suffering any injury. Another of the men was -cut very badly, in a vein in the inner side of the leg, and we had -great difficulty in stopping the blood. About one o’clock we halted for -dinner at the glade, on a branch of Hungry creek, where we had dined on -the 16th. Observing much track of deer, we left two men at this place -to hunt, and then proceeded to Collins’s creek, where we encamped in -a pleasant situation, at the upper end of the meadows two miles above -our encampment of the 15th inst. The hunters were immediately sent out, -but they returned without having killed any thing, though they saw -some few tracks of deer, very great appearance of bear, and what is of -more importance, a number of what they thought were salmon-trout, in -the creek. We therefore hope, by means of these fish and other game to -subsist at this place without returning to the Quamash flats, which we -are unwilling to do, since there are in these meadows great abundance -of good food for our horses. - -Thursday 19. The hunters renewed the chase at a very early hour, but -they brought only a single fish at noon. The fishermen were more -unsuccessful, for they caught no fish, and broke their two Indian -gigs. We, however, mended them with a sharp piece of iron, and towards -evening they took a single fish, but instead of finding it the salmon -of this spring’s arrival, which would of course have been fine, it -proved to be a salmon trout of the red kind, which remain all winter -in the upper parts of the rivers and creeks, and are generally poor at -this season. In the afternoon, the two men who were left behind, in -search of the horses, returned without being able to find them, and -the other two hunters arrived from Hungry creek with a couple of deer. -Several large morels were brought in to-day, and eaten, as we were now -obliged to use them without either salt, pepper or grease, and seemed a -very tasteless insipid food. Our stock of salt is now wholly exhausted, -except two quarts, which we left on the mountain. The musquitoes have -become very troublesome since we arrived here, particularly in the -evening. - -Friday, 20. The scantiness of our subsistence was now such that we were -determined to make one effort to ascertain if it be possible to remain -here. The hunters therefore set out very early. On their return in the -evening, they brought one deer, and a brown bear of the species called -by the Chopunnish yahhar, the talons of which were remarkably short, -broad at the base, and sharply pointed. It was in bad order, and the -flesh of bear in this situation is much inferior to lean venison or -elk. We also caught seven trout. But the hunters now reported that game -was so scarce, and so difficult to be approached, in consequence of -thick underbrush and fallen timber, that with their utmost exertions, -they could not procure us subsistence for more than one or two days -longer. We determined, therefore, to set out in the morning for the -Quamash flats, where we should hear sooner from the Chopunnish on -the subject of our guide, and also renew our stock of food, which is -now nearly exhausted. Determined, as we now are, to reach the United -States, if possible, this winter, it would be destructive to wait -till the snows have melted from the road. The snows have formed a hard -coarse bed without crust, on which the horses walk safely without -slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is to find the road. In this -we may be assisted by the circumstance, that, although, generally ten -feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the thick and spreading -branches of the trees, and from round the trunk: the warmth of the -trunk itself, acquired by the reflexion of the sun, or communicated by -natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen under these masses, -has dissolved the snow so much, that immediately at the roots, its -depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope, that the -marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees, may still be perceived, -and we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, that one -of us will take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, and with -several of our best horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on -two days’ journey in advance, and, endeavour to trace the route by -the marks of the Indian baggage on the trees, which they would then -mark more distinctly, with a tomahawk. When they should have reached -two days’ journey beyond Hungry creek, two of the men were to be sent -back, to apprise the rest of their success, and if necessary, cause -them to delay there, lest, by advancing too soon, they should be -forced to halt where no food could be obtained for the horses. If the -trace of the baggage is too indistinct, the whole party is to return -to Hungry creek, and we will then attempt the passage by ascending -the main southwest branch of Lewis’s river through the country of the -Shoshonees, over to Madison or Gallatin rivers. On that route, the -Chopunnish inform us, there is a passage not obstructed by snow at -this period of the year. That there is such a passage, we learnt from -the Shoshonees, whom we first met on the east fork of Lewis’s river; -but they also represented it as much more difficult than that by which -we came, being obstructed by high steep ragged mountains, followed -by an extensive plain, without either wood or game. We are, indeed, -inclined to prefer the account of the Shoshonees, because they would -have certainly recommended that route had it been better than the -one we have taken; and because there is a war between the Chopunnish -and the Shoshonees, who live on that route, the former are less able -to give accurate information of the state of the country. This route -too, is so circuitous, that it would require a month to perform it, -and we therefore consider it as the extreme resource. In hopes of -soon procuring a guide to lead us over a more practicable route, we -collected our horses at an early hour in the morning, - -Saturday, 21, and proceeded towards the flats. The mortification of -being obliged to tread back our steps, rendered still more tedious a -route always so obstructed by brush and fallen timber, that it could -not be passed without difficulty and even danger to our horses. One of -these poor creatures wounded himself so badly in jumping over fallen -logs that he was rendered unfit for use, and sickness has deprived us -of the service of a second. At the pass of Collins’s creek we met two -Indians, who returned with us about half a mile, to the spot where we -had formerly slept in September, and where we now halted to dine and -let our horses graze. These Indians had four supernumerary horses, -and were on their way to cross the mountains. They had seen Drewyer -and Shannon, who they said would not return for two days. We pressed -them to remain with us till that time, in order to conduct us over -the mountains, to which they consented, and deposited their stores of -roots and bread in the bushes at a little distance. After dinner we -left three men to hunt till our return, and then proceeded; but we had -not gone further than two miles when the Indians halted in a small -prairie, where they promised to remain at least two nights, if we did -not overtake them sooner. We left them, and about seven in the evening -found ourselves at the old encampment on the flats; and were glad to -find that four hunters whom we had sent ahead, had killed a deer for -supper. - -Sunday, 22. At daylight all the hunters set out, and having chased -through the whole country, were much more successful than we even -hoped, for they brought in eight deer and three bear. Hearing too that -the salmon was now abundant in the Kooskooskee, we despatched a man to -our old encampment above Collins’s creek, for the purpose of purchasing -some with a few beads, which were found accidentally in one of our -waistcoat pockets. He did not return in the evening, nor had we heard -from Drewyer and Shannon, who we begin to fear have had much difficulty -in engaging a guide, and we were equally apprehensive that the two -Indians might set out to-morrow for the mountains. Early in the morning, - -Monday, 23, therefore, we despatched two hunters to prevail on them, -if possible, to remain a day or two longer, and if they persisted in -going on, they were to accompany them with the three men at Collins’s -creek, and mark the route, as far as Traveller’s rest, where they were -to remain till we joined them by pursuing the same road. - -Our fears for the safety of Drewyer, Shannon, and Whitehouse, were -fortunately relieved by their return in the afternoon. The former -brought three Indians, who promised to go with us to the falls of -the Missouri, for the compensation of two guns. One of them is the -brother of the Cutnose, and the other two had each given us a horse, -at the house of the Brokenarm, and as they are men of good character, -and respected in the nation, we have the best prospect of being well -served. We therefore secured our horses near the camp, and at an early -hour next morning, - -Tuesday 24, set out on a second attempt to cross the mountains. On -reaching Collins’s creek, we found only one of our men, who informed us -that a short time before he arrived there yesterday, the two Indians, -tired of waiting, had set out, and the other four of our men had -accompanied them as they were directed. After halting, we went on -to Fish creek, the branch of Hungry creek, where we had slept on the -nineteenth instant. Here we overtook two of the party who had gone on -with the Indians, and had now been fortunate enough to persuade them -to wait for us. During their stay at Collins’s creek, they had killed -a single deer only, and of this they had been very liberal to the -Indians, whom they were prevailing upon to remain, so that they were -without provisions, and two of them had set out for another branch of -Hungry creek, where we shall meet them to-morrow. - -In the evening the Indians, in order as they said to bring fair weather -for our journey, set fire to the woods. As these consist chiefly of -tall fir trees, with very numerous dried branches, the blaze was almost -instantaneous, and as the flame mounted to the tops of the highest -trees, resembled a splendid display of fire-works. In the morning, - -Wednesday, 25, one of our guides complained of being sick, a symptom by -no means pleasant, for sickness is generally with an Indian the pretext -for abandoning an enterprise which he dislikes. He promised, however, -to overtake us, and we therefore left him with his two companions, and -set out at an early hour. At eleven o’clock we halted for dinner at -the branch of Hungry creek, where we found our two men, who had killed -nothing. Here too we were joined, rather unexpectedly by our guides, -who now appeared disposed to be faithful to their engagements. The -Indian was indeed really sick, and having no other covering except a -pair of moccasins and an elk skin dressed without the hair, we supplied -him with a buffaloe robe. - -In the evening we arrived at Hungry creek, and halted for the night -about a mile and a half below our encampment of the sixteenth. - -Thursday, 26. Having collected our horses, and taken breakfast, we set -out at six o’clock, and pursuing our former route, at length began to -ascend, for the second time, the ridge of the mountains. Near the -snowy region we killed two of the small black pheasants, and one of -the speckled pheasant. These birds generally inhabit the higher parts -of the mountains, where they feed on the leaves of pines and firs; -but both of them seem solitary and silent birds, for we have never -heard either of them make a noise in any situation, and the Indians -inform us that they do not in flying drum or produce a whirring sound -with their wings. On reaching the top of the mountain, we found our -deposit perfectly untouched. The snow in the neighbourhood has melted -nearly four feet since the seventeenth. By measuring it accurately, -and comparing it by a mark which we then made, the general depth we -discover to have been ten feet ten inches, though in some places still -greater; but at this time it is about seven feet. It required two -hours to arrange our baggage and to prepare a hasty meal, after which -the guides urged us to set off, as we had a long ride to make before -reaching a spot where there was grass for our horses. We mounted, and -following their steps, sometimes crossed abruptly steep hills, and then -wound along their sides, near tremendous precipices, where, had our -horses slipped, we should have been lost irrecoverably. Our route lay -on the ridgy mountains which separate the waters of the Kooskooskee -and Chopunnish, and above the heads of all the streams, so that we -met no running water. The whole country was completely covered with -snow, except that occasionally we saw a few square feet of earth, -at the roots of some trees, round which the snow had dissolved. We -passed our camp of September 18, and late in the evening reached -the deserted spot, and encamped near a good spring of water. It was -on the steep side of a mountain, with no wood and a fair southern -aspect, from which the snow seems to have melted for about ten days, -and given place to an abundant growth of young grass, resembling the -green sward. There is also another species of grass, not unlike a flag, -with a broad succulent leaf which is confined to the upper parts of -the highest mountains. It is a favourite food of the horses, but at -present is either covered with snow, or just making its appearance. -There is a third plant peculiar to the same regions, and is a species -of whortleberry. There are also large quantities of a species of -bear-grass, which, though it grows luxuriantly over all these -mountains, and preserves its verdure during the whole winter, is never -eaten by horses. - -In the night there came to the camp a Chopunnish, who had pursued us -with a view of accompanying us to the falls of the Missouri. We now -learnt that the two young Indians whom we had met on the twenty-first, -and detained several days, were going merely on a party of pleasure to -the Ootlashoots, or as they call them, Shallees, a band of Tushepahs, -who live on Clarke’s river, near Traveller’s-rest. Early the next -morning, - -Friday, 27, we resumed our route over the heights and steep hills of -the same great ridge. At eight miles distance we reached an eminence -where the Indians have raised a conic mound of stone, six or eight -feet high, on which is fixed a pole made of pine, about fifteen feet. -Here we halted and smoked for some time at the request of the Indians, -who told us, that in passing the mountains with their families, some -men are usually sent on foot from this place to fish at the entrance -of Colt creek, whence they rejoin the main party at the Quamash glade -on the head of the Kooskooskee. From this elevated spot we have a -commanding view of the surrounding mountains, which so completely -inclose us, that although we have once passed them, we almost despair -of ever escaping from them without the assistance of the Indians. The -marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much -fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we had supposed; but -our guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive -sagacity; they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed; yet so -undeviating is their step, that wherever the snow has disappeared, for -even a hundred paces, we find the summer road. With their aid the snow -is scarcely a disadvantage, for although we are often obliged to slip -down, yet the fallen timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were -much more troublesome when we passed in the autumn. The travelling -road is indeed comparatively pleasant, as well as more rapid, the snow -being hard and coarse, without a crust, and perfectly hard enough to -prevent the horses sinking more than two or three inches. After the -sun has been on it for some hours it becomes softer than early in -the morning, yet they are almost always able to get a sure foothold. -After some time we resumed our route, and at the distance of three -miles descended a steep mountain, then crossing two branches of the -Chopunnish river, just above their forks, began to mount a second -ridge. Along this we proceeded for some time, and then, at the distance -of seven miles, reached our camp of the sixteenth of September. Near -this place we crossed three small branches of the Chopunnish, and then -ascended a second dividing ridge, along which we continued for nine -miles, when the ridge became somewhat lower, and we halted for the -night on a position similar to that of our encampment last evening. -We had now travelled twenty-eight miles without taking the loads from -our horses or giving them any thing to eat, and as the snow where we -halted has not much dissolved, there was still but little grass. Among -the vegetation we observed great quantities of the white lily, with -reflected petals, which are now in bloom, and in the same forwardness -as they were in the plains on the tenth of May. As for ourselves, the -whole stock of meat being gone, we distributed to each mess a pint of -bear’s oil, which, with boiled roots, made an agreeable dish. We saw -several black-tailed or mule-deer, but could not get a shot at them, -and were informed that there is an abundance of elk in the valley, -near the fishery, on the Kooskooskee. The Indians also assert that on -the mountains to our right are large numbers of what they call white -buffaloe or mountain sheep. Our horses strayed to some distance to look -for food, and in the morning, - -Saturday, 28, when they were brought up, exhibited rather a gaunt -appearance. The Indians, however, promised that we should reach some -good grass at noon, and we therefore set out after an early breakfast. -Our route lay along the dividing ridge, and across a very deep hollow, -till at the distance of six miles we passed our camp of the fifteenth -of September. A mile and a half further we passed the road from the -right, immediately on the dividing ridge, leading by the fishery. -We went on as we had done during the former part of the route over -deep snows, when having made thirteen miles we reached the side of -a mountain, just above the fishery, which having no timber, and a -southern exposure, the snow had disappeared, leaving an abundance of -fine grass. Our horses were very hungry as well as fatigued, and as -there was no other spot within our reach this evening, where we could -find any food for them, we determined to encamp, though it was not yet -midday. But as there was no water in the neighbourhood, we melted snow -for cooking, and early in the morning, - -Sunday, 29, continued along the ridge which we have been following -for several days, till at the end of five miles it terminated; and -now bidding adieu to the snows in which we have been imprisoned, we -descended to the main branch of the Kooskooskee. On reaching the water -side, we found a deer which had been left for us by two hunters who -had been despatched at an early hour to the warm springs, and which -proved a very seasonable addition to our food; for having neither meat -nor oil, we were reduced to a diet of roots, without salt or any other -addition. At this place, about a mile and a half from the spot where -Quamash creek falls in from the northeast, the Kooskooskee is about -thirty yards wide, and runs with great velocity over a bed, which, -like those of all the mountain streams, is composed of pebbles. We -forded the river, and ascended for two miles the steep acclivities of a -mountain, and at its summit found coming in from the right the old road -which we had passed on our route last autumn. It was now much plainer -and more beaten, which the Indians told us was owing to the frequent -visits of the Ootlashoots, from the valley of Clarke’s river to the -fishery; though there was no appearance of their having been here this -spring. Twelve miles from our camp we halted to graze our horses on -the Quamash flats, on the creek of the same name. This is a handsome -plain of fifty acres in extent, covered with an abundance of quamash, -and seems to form a principal stage or encampment for the Indians in -passing the mountains. We saw here several young pheasants, and killed -one of the small black kind, which is the first we have observed below -the region of snow. In the neighbourhood were also seen the tracks of -two barefoot Indians, which our companions supposed to be Ootlashoots, -who had fled in distress from the Pahkees. Here we discovered that -two of the horses were missing. We therefore sent two men in quest -of them, and then went on seven miles further to the warm springs, -where we arrived early in the afternoon. The two hunters who had been -sent forward in the morning had collected no game, nor were several -others, who went out after our arrival, more successful. We therefore -had a prospect of continuing our usual diet of roots, when late in the -afternoon the men returned with the stray horses and a deer for supper. - -These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill, on the north -side of Traveller’s-rest creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. -They issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray -freestone rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. -The principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by -stopping the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature -as the warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, -captain Lewis could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, and -then was affected with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs -are much hotter, the temperature being equal to that of the warmest of -the hot springs in Virginia. Our men as well as the Indians amused -themselves with going into the bath; the latter, according to their -universal custom, going first into the hot bath, where they remain as -long as they can bear the heat, then plunging into the creek, which is -now of an icy coldness, and repeating this operation several times, but -always ending with the warm bath. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - The party proceed on their journey with their Indian guides, - and at length agree to divide, to take several routes, - and to meet again at the mouth of Yellowstone river--the - route of captain Lewis is to pursue the most direct road to - the falls of the Missouri, then to ascend Maria’s river, - explore the country, and then to descend that river to its - mouth--captain Lewis, accordingly, with nine men proceed up - the eastern branch of Clarke’s river and take leave of their - Indian guides--description of that branch and character of - the surrounding country---description of the Cokalahiahkit - river--they arrive at the ridge dividing the Missouri from the - Columbia rivers--meet once more with the buffaloe and brown - bear--immense herds of buffaloe discovered on the borders of - Medicine river--the party encamp on Whitebear islands--singular - adventure that befel M’Neal--captain Lewis, with three of his - party, proceed to explore the source of Maria’s river--Tansy - river described, he reaches the dividing line of these two - streams--general character of the surrounding country. - - -Monday, 30. We despatched some hunters ahead, and were about setting -out, when a deer came to lick at the springs; we killed it, and being -now provided with meat for dinner, proceeded along the north side -of the creek, sometimes in the bottoms, and over the steep sides -of the ridge, till at the distance of thirteen miles, we halted at -the entrance of a small stream where we had stopped on the 12th of -September. Here we observed a road to the right, which the Indians -inform us leads to a fine extensive valley on Clarke’s river, where the -Shalees or Ootlashoots occasionally reside. After permitting our horses -to graze, we went on along a road much better than any we have seen -since entering the mountains, so that before sunset we made nineteen -miles, and reached our old encampment on the south side of the creek -near its entrance into Clarke’s river. In the course of the day we -killed six deer, of which there are great numbers, as well as bighorn -and elk, in this neighbourhood. We also obtained a small gray squirrel -like that on the coast of the Pacific, except that its belly was white. -Among the plants was a kind of lady’s slipper, or moccasin flower, -resembling that common in the United States, but with a white corolla, -marked with longitudinal veins of a pale red colour on the inner side. - -Tuesday, July 1. We had now made one hundred and fifty-six miles from -the Quamash flats, to the mouth of Traveller’s-rest creek. This being -the point where we proposed to separate, it was resolved to remain -a day or two in order to refresh ourselves, and the horses, which -have bore the journey extremely well, and are still in fine order, -but require some little rest. We had hoped to meet here some of the -Ootlashoots, but no tracks of them can be discovered. Our Indian -companions express much anxiety lest they should have been cut off -by the Pahkees during the winter, and mention the tracks of the two -barefooted persons as a proof how much the fugitives must have been -distressed. - -We now formed the following plan of operations. Captain Lewis with -nine men, are to pursue the most direct route to the falls of the -Missouri, where three of his party are to be left to prepare carriages -for transporting the baggage and canoes across the portage. With the -remaining six he will ascend Maria’s river, to explore the country -and ascertain whether any branch of it reaches as far north as the -latitude of fifty degrees, after which he will descend that river to -its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany captain Clarke to the -head of Jefferson river, which serjeant Ordway and a party of nine -men will descend with the canoes and other articles deposited there. -Captain Clarke’s party, which will then be reduced to ten, will proceed -to the Yellowstone at its nearest approach to the three forks of the -Missouri. There he will build canoes, and go down that river with seven -of his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party join -him. Serjeant Pryor, with two others, will then take the horses by -land to the Mandans. From that nation he is to go to the British posts -on the Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. Henry, to procure his endeavours -to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of -Washington. - -Having made these arrangements, this and the following day were -employed in hunting and repairing our arms. We were successful in -procuring a number of fine large deer, the flesh of which was exposed -to dry. Among other animals in this neighbourhood, are the dove, black -woodpecker, lark woodpecker, logcock, prairie lark, sandhill crane, -prairie hen, with the short and pointed tail; the robin, a species of -brown plover, a few curlews, small blackbirds, ravens, hawks, and a -variety of sparrows, as well as the bee martin, and several species of -corvus. The musquetoes too have been excessively troublesome since our -arrival here. The Indians assert also, that there are great numbers -of the white buffaloe or mountain sheep, on the snowy heights of the -mountains, west of Clarke’s river. They generally inhabit the rocky and -most inaccessible parts of the mountains, but as they are not fleet, -are easily killed by the hunters. - -The plants which most abound in this valley are the wild rose, the -honeysuckle, with a white berry, the sevenbark, serviceberry, the -elder, aspen and alder, the choke-cherry, and both the narrow and -broad-leafed willow. The principal timber consists of long-leafed pine, -which grows as well in the river bottoms as on the hills; the firs and -larch are confined to the higher parts of the hills, while on the river -itself, is a growth of cottonwood, with a wider leaf than that of the -upper part of the Missouri, though narrower than that which grows lower -down that river. There are also two species of clover in this valley; -one with a very narrow small leaf, and a pale red flower; the other -with a white flower, and nearly as luxuriant in its growth as our red -clover. - -The Indians who had accompanied us, intended leaving us in order to -seek their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to -accompany captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the -shortest road to the Missouri, and in the meantime amused them with -conversation and running races, both on foot and with horses, in -both of which they proved themselves hardy, athletic and active. To -the chief, captain Lewis gave a small medal and a gun, as a reward -for having guided us across the mountains; in return, the customary -civility of exchanging names passed between them, by which the former -acquired the title of Yomekullick, tick, or white bearskin unfolded. -The Chopunnish who had overtaken us on the 26th, made us a present of -an excellent horse, for the good advice we gave him, and as a proof of -his attachment to the whites, as well as of his desire to be at peace -with the Pahkees. The next morning, - -Thursday July 3, all our preparations being completed, we saddled -our horses, and the two parties who had been so long companions, -now separated with an anxious hope of soon meeting, after each had -accomplished the purpose of his destination. - -The nine men and five Indians who accompanied captain Lewis, proceeded -in a direction due north, down the west side of Clarke’s river. Half -a mile from the camp we forded Traveller’s-rest creek, and two and a -half miles further, passed a western branch of the river; a mile beyond -this, was a small creek on the eastern side, and a mile lower down, -the entrance of the eastern branch of the river. This stream is from -ninety to one hundred and twenty yards wide, and its water, which is -discharged through two channels, is more turbid than that of the main -river. The latter is one hundred and fifty yards in width, and waters -an extensive level plain and prairie, which on its lower parts are -ornamented with long-leafed pine, and cottonwood, while the tops of the -hills are covered with pine, larch, and fir. We proceeded two miles -further to a place where the Indians advised us to cross, but having -no boats, and timber being scarce, four hours were spent in collecting -timber to make three small rafts; on which, with some difficulty -and danger, we passed the river. We then drove our horses into the -water and they swam to the opposite shore, but the Indians crossed on -horseback, drawing at the same time their baggage alongside of them in -small basins of deer skins. The whole party being now reassembled, we -continued for three miles, and encamped about sunset at a small creek. -The Indians now showed us a road at no great distance, which they said -would lead up the eastern branch of Clarke’s river, and another river -called Cokalahishkit, or the _river of the road to buffaloe_, thence -to Medicine river and the falls of the Missouri. They added, that not -far from the dividing ridge of the waters of Clarke’s river and the -Missouri, the roads forked, and though both led to the falls, the left -hand route was the best. The route was so well beaten that we could no -longer mistake it and having now shown us the way, they were anxious -to go on in quest of their friends, the Shahlees, besides which, they -feared, by venturing further with us, to encounter the Pahkees, for we -had this afternoon seen a fresh track of a horse, which they supposed -to be a Shahlee scout. We could not insist on their remaining longer -with us; but as they had so kindly conducted us across the mountains, -we were desirous of giving them a supply of provisions, and therefore -distributed to them half of three deer, and the hunters were ordered to -go out early in the morning, in hopes of adding to the stock. - -The horses suffer so dreadfully from the musquetoes, that we are -obliged to kindle large fires and place the poor animals in the midst -of the smoke. Fortunately, however, it became cold after dark, and the -musquetoes disappeared. - -Friday, July 4. The hunters accordingly set out, but returned -unsuccessful about eleven o’clock. In the meantime we were joined by -a young man of the Palloatpallah tribe, who had set out a few days -after us, and had followed us alone across the mountains, the same -who had attempted to pass the mountains in June, while we were on the -Kooskooskee, but was obliged to return. We now smoked a farewell pipe -with our estimable companions, who expressed every emotion of regret at -parting from us, which they felt the more, because they did not conceal -their fears of our being cut off by the Pahkees. We also gave them a -shirt, a handkerchief, and a small quantity of ammunition. The meat -which they received from us was dried and left at this place as a store -during the homeward journey. This circumstance confirms our belief, -that there is no route along Clarke’s river to the Columbian plains, so -near or so good as that by which we came; for, although these people -mean to go for several days’ journey down that river, to look for -the Shalees, yet they intend returning home by the same pass of the -mountain through which they conducted us. This route is also used by -all the nations whom we know west of the mountains who are in the habit -of visiting the plains of the Missouri; while on the other side all -the war paths of the Pahkees, which fall into this valley of Clarke’s -river, concentre at Traveller’s-rest, beyond which these people have -never ventured to the west. - -Having taken leave of the Indians, we mounted our horses, and proceeded -up the eastern branch of Clarke’s river through the level plain in -which we were encamped. At the distance of five miles we had crossed -a small creek fifteen yards wide, and now entered the mountains. The -river is here closely confined within the hills for two miles, when -the bottom widens into an extensive prairie, and the river is one -hundred and ten yards in width. We went three miles further, over a -high plain succeeded by a low and level prairie, to the entrance of -the Cokalahishkit. This river empties itself from the northeast, is -deep, rapid, and about sixty yards wide, with banks, which though not -high, are sufficiently bold to prevent the water from overflowing. -The eastern branch of Clarke’s river is ninety yards wide above the -junction, but below it spreads to one hundred. The waters of both -are turbid, though the Cokalahishkit is the clearer of the two; -the beds of both are composed of sand and gravel, but neither of -them is navigable on account of the rapids and shoals which obstruct -their currents. Before the junction of these streams, the country -had been bare of trees, but as we turned up the north branch of the -Cokalahishkit, we found a woody country, though the hills were high and -the low grounds narrow and poor. At the distance of eight miles in a -due east course, we encamped in a bottom, where there was an abundance -of excellent grass. The evening proved fine and pleasant, and we were -no longer annoyed by musquitoes. Our only game were two squirrels, one -of the kind common to the Rocky mountains, the second a ground squirrel -of a species we had not seen before. Near the place where we crossed -Clarke’s river, we saw at a distance, some wild horses, which are said, -indeed, to be very numerous on this river as well as on the heads of -the Yellowstone. - -Saturday, July 5. Early in the morning we proceeded on for three and a -half miles, in a direction north 75° east, then inclining to the south, -crossed an extensive, beautiful, and well watered valley, nearly twelve -miles in length, at the extremity of which we halted for dinner. Here -we obtained a great quantity of quamash, and shot an antelope from -a gang of females, who at this season herd together, apart from the -bucks. After dinner we followed the course of the river eastwardly for -six miles, to the mouth of a creek thirty-five yards wide, which we -called Werner’s creek. It comes in from the north, and waters a high -extensive prairie, the hills near which are low, and supplied with the -long-leafed pine, larch, and some fir. The road then led north 22° -west, for four miles, soon after which it again turned north 75° east, -for two and a half miles, over a handsome plain, watered by Werner’s -creek, to the river, which we followed on its eastern direction, -through a high prairie, rendered very unequal by a vast number of -little hillocks and sinkholes, and at three miles distance encamped -near the entrance of a large creek, twenty yards wide, to which we -gave the name of Seaman’s creek. We had seen no Indians, although near -the camp were the concealed fires of a war party, who had passed about -two months ago. - -Sunday, 6. At sunrise we continued our course eastward along the river. -At seven miles distance we passed the north fork of the Cokalahishkit, -a deep and rapid stream, forty-five yards in width, and like the main -branch itself somewhat turbid, though the other streams of this country -are clear. Seven miles further the river enters the mountains, and here -end those extensive prairies on this side, though they widen in their -course towards the southeast, and form an Indian route to Dearborn’s -river, and thence to the Missouri. From the multitude of knobs -irregularly scattered through them, captain Lewis called this country -the Prairie of the Knobs. They abound in game, as we saw goats, deer, -great numbers of the burrowing squirrels, some curlews, bee martins, -woodpeckers, plover, robins, doves, ravens, hawks, ducks, a variety of -sparrows, and yesterday observed swans on Werner’s creek. Among the -plants we observed the southern wood, and two other species of shrubs, -of which we preserved specimens. - -On entering the high grounds we followed the course of the river -through the narrow bottoms, thickly timbered with pine and cottonwood -intermixed, and variegated with the boisrouge, which is now in bloom, -the common small blue flag and pepper grass; and at the distance of -three and a half miles, reached the two forks of the river mentioned -by the Indians. They are nearly equal in width, and the road itself -here forks and follows each of them. We followed that which led us in a -direction north 75° east, over a steep high hill, thence along a wide -bottom to a thickly wooded side of a hill, where the low grounds are -narrow, till we reached a large creek, eight miles from the forks and -twenty-five from our last encampment. Here we halted for the night. In -the course of the day the track of the Indians, whom we supposed to be -the Pahkees, continued to grow fresher, and we passed a number of old -lodges and encampments. At seven o’clock the next morning, - -Monday, 7, we proceeded through a beautiful plain on the north side -of the river, which seems here to abound in beaver. The low grounds -possess much timber, and the hills are covered chiefly with pitch pine, -that of the long-leafed kind having disappeared since we left the -Prairie of the Knobs. At the distance of twelve miles we left the river -or rather the creek, and having for four miles crossed, in a direction -north 15° east, two ridges, again struck to the right, which we -followed through a narrow bottom, covered with low willows and grass, -and abundantly supplied with both deer and beaver. After seven miles -we reached the foot of a ridge, which we ascended in a direction north -45° east, through a low gap of easy ascent from the westward, and on -descending it were delighted at discovering that this was the dividing -ridge between the waters of the Columbia and those of the Missouri. -From this gap the Fort mountain is about twenty miles in a northeastern -direction. We now wound through the hills and hollows of the mountains, -passing several rivulets, which run to the right, and at the distance -of nine miles from the gap encamped, after making thirty-two miles. We -procured some beaver, and this morning saw some signs and tracks of -buffaloe, from which it seems those animals do sometimes penetrate to a -short distance within the mountains. - -Tuesday, 8. At three miles from our camp we reached a stream, issuing -from the mountains to the southwest, though it only contains water -for a width of thirty feet, yet its bed is more than three times -that width, and from the appearance of the roots and trees in the -neighbouring bottom, must sometimes run with great violence; we called -it Dearborn’s river. Half a mile further we observed from a height -the Shishequaw mountain, a high insulated mountain of a conic form, -standing several miles in advance of the eastern range of the Rocky -mountains, and now about eight miles from us, and immediately on our -road, which was in a northwest direction. But as our object was to -strike Medicine river, and hunt down to its mouth in order to procure -skins for the food and gear necessary for the three men who are to be -left at the falls, none of whom are hunters, we determined to leave -the road, and therefore proceeded due north, through an open plain, -till we reached Shishequaw creek, a stream about twenty yards wide, -with a considerable quantity of timber in its low grounds. Here we -halted and dined, and now felt, by the luxury of our food, that we -were approaching once more the plains of the Missouri, so rich in -game. We saw a great number of deer, goats, wolves, and some barking -squirrels, and for the first time caught a distant prospect of two -buffaloe. After dinner we followed the Shishequaw for six and a half -miles, to its entrance into Medicine river, and along the banks of this -river for eight miles, when we encamped on a large island. The bottoms -continued low, level, and extensive; the plains too are level; but the -soil of neither is fertile, as it consists of a light coloured earth, -intermixed with a large proportion of gravel; the grass in both is -generally about nine inches high. Captain Lewis here shot a large and -remarkably white wolf. We had now made twenty-eight miles; and set out -early the next morning, - -Wednesday, 9; but the air soon became very cold, and it began to rain. -We halted for a few minutes in some old Indian lodges, but finding -that the rain continued we proceeded on, though we were all wet to -the skin, and halted for dinner at the distance of eight miles. The -rain, however, continued, and we determined to go no further. The -river is about eighty yards wide, with banks which, though low, are -seldom overflowed; the bed is composed of loose gravel and pebbles, the -water clear and rapid, but not so much as to impede the navigation. -The bottoms are handsome, wide, and level, and supplied with a -considerable quantity of narrow-leafed cottonwood. During our short -ride we killed two deer and a buffaloe, and saw a number of wolves and -antelopes. The next morning early, - -Thursday, 10, we set out, and continued through a country similar to -that of yesterday, with bottoms of wide-leafed cottonwood occasionally -along the borders, though for the most part the low grounds are -without timber. In the plains are great quantities of two species of -prickly pear, now in bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are -in abundance and just beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. -The river has now widened to an hundred yards; is deep, crowded with -islands, and in many parts rapid. At the distance of seventeen miles, -the timber disappears totally from the river bottoms. About this part -of the river, the wind, which had blown on our backs, and constantly -put the elk on their guard, shifted round, and we then shot three of -them, and a brown bear. Captain Lewis halted to skin them, while two of -the men took the pack-horses forward to seek for an encampment. It was -nine o’clock before he overtook them, at the distance of seven miles in -the first grove of cottonwood. They had been pursued as they came along -by a very large bear, on which they were afraid to fire, lest their -horses being unaccustomed to the gun, might take fright and throw them. -This circumstance reminds us of the ferocity of these animals, when we -were last near this place, and admonishes us to be very cautious. We -saw vast numbers of buffaloe below us, which kept a dreadful bellowing -during the night. With all our exertions we were unable to advance more -than twenty-four miles, owing to the mire, through which we are obliged -to travel, in consequence of the rain. The next morning, however, - -Friday, 11, was fair, and enlivened by great numbers of birds, who -sang delightfully in the clusters of cottonwood. The hunters were sent -down Medicine river to hunt elk, while captain Lewis crossed the high -plain, in a direction 75° east, to the Whitebear island, a distance -of eight miles, where the hunters joined him. They had seen elk; but -in this neighbourhood the buffaloe are in such numbers, that on a -moderate computation, there could not have been fewer than ten thousand -within a circuit of two miles. At this season, they are bellowing in -every direction, so as to form an almost continued roar, which at first -alarmed our horses, who being from the west of the mountains, are -unused to the noise and appearance of these animals. Among the smaller -game are the brown thrush, pidgeons, doves, and a beautiful bird called -a buffaloe-pecker. - -Immediately on our arrival we began to hunt, and by three in the -afternoon had collected a stock of food and hides enough for our -purpose. We then made two canoes, one in the form of a basin, like -those used by the Mandans, the other consisting of two skins, in a form -of our own invention. They were completed the next morning. - -Saturday, 12; but the wind continued so high that it was not till -towards night that we could cross the river in them, and make our -horses swim. In the meantime, nearly the whole day was consumed in -search after our horses, which had disappeared last night, and seven of -which were not recovered at dark, while Drewyer was still in quest of -them. The river is somewhat higher than it was last summer, the present -season being much more moist than the preceding one, as may be seen in -the greater luxuriance of the grass. - -Sunday, 13. We formed our camp this morning at our old station, near -the head of the Whitebear islands, and immediately went to work in -making gear. On opening the cache, we found the bear skins entirely -destroyed by the water, which, in a flood of the river, had penetrated -to them. All the specimens of plants were unfortunately lost; the -chart of the Missouri, however, still remained unhurt and several -articles contained in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; -but a phial of laudanum had lost its stopper, and ran into a drawer -of medicines, which it spoiled beyond recovery. The musquetoes have -been so troublesome that it was impossible even to write without the -assistance of a musquetoe bier. The buffaloe are leaving us fast on -their way to the southeast. - -Monday, 14. We continued making preparations for transporting our -articles, and as the old deposit was too damp, we secured the trunks on -a high scaffold, covered with skins, among the thick brush on a large -island: a precaution against any visit from the Indians, should they -arrive before the main party arrives here. The carriage wheels were in -good order, and the iron frame of the boat had not suffered materially. -The buffaloe have now nearly disappeared, leaving behind them a number -of large wolves who are now prowling about us. - -Tuesday, 15. To our great joy Drewyer returned to-day from a long -search after the horses; for we had concluded, from his long stay, -that he had probably met with a bear, and with his usual intrepidity -attacked the animal, in which case, if by any accident he should be -separated from his horse, his death would be almost inevitable. Under -this impression, we resolved to set out to-morrow in quest of him, when -his return relieved us from our apprehensions. He had searched for -two days before he discovered that the horses had crossed Dearborn’s -river, near a spot where was an Indian encampment, which seemed to -have been abandoned about the time the horses were stolen, and which -was so closely concealed that no trace of a horse could be seen within -the distance of quarter of a mile. He crossed the river and pursued -the track of these Indians westward, till his horse became so much -fatigued that he despaired of overtaking them, and then returned. These -Indians we suppose to be a party of Tushepaws, who have ventured out -of the mountains to hunt buffaloe. During the day we were engaged in -drying meat and dressing skins. At night M’Neal, who had been sent in -the morning to examine the cache at the lower end of the portage, -returned; but had been prevented from reaching that place by a singular -adventure. Just as he arrived near Willow run, he approached a thicket -of brush, in which was a white bear, which he did not discover till he -was within ten feet of him: his horse started, and wheeling suddenly -round, threw M’Neal almost immediately under the bear, who started up -instantly, and finding the bear raising himself on his hind feet to -attack him, struck him on the head with the butt end of his musket; the -blow was so violent that it broke the breech of the musket and knocked -the bear to the ground, and before he recovered, M’Neal seeing a willow -tree close by, sprang up, and there remained while the bear closely -guarded the foot of the tree until late in the afternoon. He then went -off, and M’Neal being released came down, and having found his horse, -which had strayed off to the distance of two miles, returned to camp. -These animals are, indeed, of a most extraordinary ferocity, and it -is matter of wonder, that in all our encounters we have had the good -fortune to escape. We are now troubled with another enemy, not quite -so dangerous, though even more disagreeable: these are the musquetoes, -who now infest us in such myriads, that we frequently get them into -our throats when breathing, and the dog even howls with the torture -they occasion. Having now accomplished the object of our stay, captain -Lewis determined to leave serjeant Gass with two men and four horses -to assist the party who are expected to carry our effects over the -portage, whilst he, with Drewyer, and the two Fields, with six horses, -proceeded to the sources of Maria’s river. Accordingly, early in the -morning, - -Wednesday 16, captain Lewis descended in a skin canoe to the lower side -of Medicine river, where the horses had previously been sent, and then -rode with his party to the fall of forty-seven feet, where he halted -for two hours to dine, and took a sketch of the fall. In the afternoon -they proceeded to the great falls, near which they slept under a -shelving rock, with a happy exemption from musquetoes. These falls have -lost much of their grandeur since we saw them, the river being much -lower now than at that time, though they still form a most sublime -spectacle. As we came along, we met several white bear, but they did -not venture to attack us. There were but few buffaloe, however, the -large having principally passed the river, directed their course -downwards. There are, as usual, great numbers of goats and antelopes -dispersed through the plains, and large flocks of geese, which raise -their young about the entrance of Medicine river. We observe here also -the cuckoo, or as it is sometimes called, the raincraw, a bird which is -not known either within or west of the Rocky mountains. - -Thursday, 17. After taking a second draught of the falls, captain Lewis -directed his course N. 10° W. with an intention of striking Maria’s -river at the point to which he had ascended it in 1804. The country -is here spread into wide and level plains, swelling like the ocean, -in which the view is uninterrupted by a single tree or shrub, and is -diversified only by the moving herds of buffaloe. The soil consists of -a light-coloured earth, intermixed with a large proportion of coarse -gravel without sand, and is by no means so fertile as either the plains -of the Columbia, or those lower down the Missouri. When dry it cracks, -and is hard and thirsty while in its wet state: it is as soft and slimy -as soap. The grass is naturally short, and at this time is still more -so from the recent passage of the buffaloe. - -Among the birds which we met was the party-coloured plover, with the -head and neck of a brick red, a bird which frequents the little ponds -scattered over the plains. After travelling twenty miles we reached -Tansy river, and as we could not go as far as Maria’s river this -evening, and perhaps not find either wood or water before we arrived -there, we determined to encamp. As we approached the river, we saw -the fresh track of a bleeding buffaloe, a circumstance by no means -pleasant, as it indicated the Indians had been hunting, and were not -far from us. The tribes who principally frequent this country, are the -Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, and the Blackfoot Indians, both of whom -are vicious and profligate rovers, and we have therefore every thing to -fear, not only from their stealing our horses, but even our arms and -baggage, if they are sufficiently strong. In order therefore to avoid, -if possible, an interview with them, we hurried across the river to a -thick wood, and having turned out the horses to graze, Drewyer went in -quest of the buffaloe to kill it, and ascertain whether the wound was -given by the Indians, while the rest reconnoitred the whole country. In -about three hours they all returned without having seen the buffaloe or -any Indians in the plains. We then dined, and two of the party resumed -their search, but could see no signs of Indians, and we therefore slept -in safety. Tansy river is here about fifty yards wide, though its water -occupies only thirty-five feet, and is not more than three in depth. -It most probably rises within the first range of the Rocky mountains, -and its general course is from east to west, and as far as we are able -to trace it through wide bottoms, well supplied with both the long and -broad-leafed cottonwood: The hills on its banks, are from one hundred -to one hundred and fifty feet in height, and possess bluffs of earth, -like the lower part of the Missouri: the bed is formed of small gravel -and mud; the water turbid, and of a whitish tint; the banks low, but -never overflowed; in short, except in depth and velocity, it is a -perfect miniature of the Missouri. - -Friday, 18. A little before sunrise we continued on a course N. 25° W. -for six miles, when we reached the top of a high plain, which divides -the waters of Maria and Tansy rivers, and a mile further reached a -creek of the former, about twenty-five yards wide, though with no water -except in occasional pools in the bed. Down this creek we proceeded for -twelve miles through thick groves of timber on its banks, passing such -immense quantities of buffaloe, that the whole seemed to be a single -herd. Accompanying them were great numbers of wolves, besides which -we saw some antelopes and hares. After dinner we left the creek which -we called Buffaloe creek, and crossing the plain for six miles, came -to Maria’s river and encamped in a grove of cottonwood, on its western -side, keeping watch through the night lest we should be surprised -by the Indians. Captain Lewis was now convinced that he was above -the point to which he had formerly ascended, and fearing that some -branch might come in on the north, between that point and our present -position, he early in the morning, - -Saturday, 19, despatched two hunters, who descended the river in a -direction north 80° east, till they came to our former position, at -the distance of six miles, without seeing any stream except Buffaloe -creek. Having completed an observation of the sun’s meridian altitude, -captain Lewis proceeded along the north side of Maria’s river. The -bottoms are in general about half a mile wide, and possess considerable -quantities of cottonwood timber, and an underbrush, consisting of -honeysuckle, rose bushes, narrow-leafed willow, and the plant called -by the engagees, buffaloe grease. The plains are level and beautiful, -but the soil is thin and overrun with prickly pears. It consists of a -sort of white or whitish-blue clay, which after being trodden, when -wet, by the buffaloe, stands up in sharp hard points, which are as -painful to the horses as the great quantity of small gravel, which is -every where scattered over the ground, is in other parts of the plains. -The bluffs of the river are high, steep, and irregular, and composed -of a sort of earth which easily dissolves and slips into the water, -though with occasional strata of freestone near the tops. The bluffs -of the Missouri above Maria’s river, differ from these, in consisting -of a firm red or yellow clay, which does not yield to water, and a -large proportion of rock. The buffaloe are not so abundant as they were -yesterday; but there are still antelopes, wolves, geese, pidgeons, -doves, hawks, ravens, crows, larks, and sparrows, though the curlew -has disappeared. At the distance of eight miles a large creek falls -in on the south side, and seven miles beyond it, another thirty yards -wide, which seem to issue from three mountains, stretching from east -to west, in a direction north 10° west from its mouth, and which, from -their loose, irregular, and rugged appearance, we called the Broken -mountains. That in the centre terminates in a conic spire, for which -reason we called it the Tower mountain. After making twenty miles we -halted for the night, and the next morning, - -Sunday, 20, continued our route up the river, through a country -resembling that which we passed yesterday, except that the plains -are more broken, and the appearances of mineral salts, common to the -Missouri plains, are more abundant than usual; these are discerned in -all the pools, which indeed at present contain the only water to be -found throughout the plains, and are so strongly impregnated as to be -unfit for any use, except that of the buffaloe, who seem to prefer it -to even the water of the river. The low grounds are well timbered, and -contain also silk-grass, sand-rush, wild liquorice, and sunflowers, the -barb of which are now in bloom. Besides the geese, ducks, and other -birds common to the country, we have seen fewer buffaloe to-day than -yesterday, though elk, wolves, and antelopes continue in equal numbers. -There is also much appearance of beaver, though none of otter. At the -distance of six miles we passed a creek from the south; eighteen miles -further one from the north; four miles beyond which we encamped. The -river is here one hundred and twenty yards wide, and its water is but -little diminished as we ascend. Its general course is very straight. -From the apparent descent of the country to the north and above the -Broken mountains, it seems probable that the south branch of the -Saskashawan receives some of its waters from these plains, and that one -of its streams must, in descending from the Rocky mountains, pass not -far from Maria’s river, to the northeast of the Broken mountains. We -slept in peace, without being annoyed by the musquetoes, whom we have -not seen since we left the Whitebear islands. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - Captain Lewis and his party still proceed on the route - mentioned in the last chapter, and arrive at the forks of - Maria’s river, of which river a particular description - is given---alarmed by the evidence that they are in - the neighbourhood of unfriendly Indians, and much - distressed for want of provisions, the weather proving - unfavourable, they are compelled to return--the face of - the country described--interview with the unfriendly - Indians, called Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie--mutual - consternation--resolution of captain Lewis--they encamp - together for the night, apparently with amicable - dispositions--the conversation that ensued between these new - visitants--the conflict occasioned by the Indians attempting - to seize the rifles and horses of the party, in which one is - mortally wounded--captain Lewis kills another Indian, and - his narrow escape--having taken four horses belonging to the - Indians, they hastened with all expedition to join the party - attached to captain Clarke--arriving near the Missouri they are - alarmed by the sound of rifles, which proves fortunately to be - from the party of their friends, under the command of serjeant - Ordway--the two detachments thus fortunately united, leave - their horses, and descend the Missouri in canoes--they continue - their route down the river to form a junction with captain - Clarke--vast quantities of game found in their passage down - the river--captain Lewis accidentally wounded by one of his - own party--they proceed down the Missouri, and at length join - captain Clarke. - - -Monday, 21. At sunrise we proceeded along the northern side of the -river for a short distance, when finding the ravines too steep, we -crossed to the south; but after continuing for three miles, returned -to the north and took our course through the plains, at some distance -from the river. After making fifteen miles, we came to the forks -of the river, the largest branch of which bears south 75° west to -the mountains, while the course of the other is north 40° west. We -halted for dinner, and believing, on examination, that the northern -branch came from the mountains, and would probably lead us to the -most northern extent of Maria’s river, we proceeded along, though -at a distance over the plains, till we struck it eight miles from -the junction. The river is about thirty yards wide, the water clear, -but shallow, rapid, and unfit for navigation. It is closely confined -between cliffs of freestone, and the adjacent country broken and poor. -We crossed to the south side, and proceeded for five miles, till we -encamped under a cliff, where not seeing any timber, we made a fire of -buffaloe dung, and passed the night. The next day, - -Tuesday, 22, we went on; but as the ground was now steep and unequal, -and the horses’ feet very sore, we were obliged to proceed slowly. The -river is still confined by freestone cliffs, till at the distance of -seven miles the country opens, is less covered with gravel, and has -some bottoms, though destitute of timber or underbrush. The river here -makes a considerable bend to the northwest, so that we crossed the -plains for eleven miles when we again crossed the river. Here we halted -for dinner, and having no wood, made a fire of the dung of buffaloe, -with which we cooked the last of our meat, except a piece of spoiled -buffaloe. Our course then lay across a level beautiful plain, with wide -bottoms near the bank of the river. The banks are about three or four -feet high, but are not overflowed. After crossing for ten miles a bend -of the river towards the south, we saw, for the first time during the -day, a clump of cottonwood trees in an extensive bottom, and halted -there for the night. This place is about ten miles below the foot of -the Rocky mountains; and being now able to trace distinctly that the -point at which the river issued from those mountains, was to the south -of west, we concluded that we had reached its most northern point, and -as we have ceased to hope that any branches of Maria’s river extend as -far north as the fiftieth degree of latitude, we deem it useless to -proceed further, and rely chiefly on Milk and White-earth rivers for -the desired boundary. We therefore determined to remain here two days, -for the purpose of making the necessary observations, and resting our -horses. The next morning, - -Wednesday, 23, Drewyer was sent to examine the bearings of the river, -till its entrance into the mountains, which he found to be at the -distance of ten miles, and in a direction south 50° west; he had -seen also the remains of a camp of eleven leathern lodges, recently -abandoned, which induced us to suppose that the Minnetarees of Fort -de Prairie are somewhere in this neighbourhood; a suspicion which was -confirmed by the return of the hunters, who had seen no game of any -kind. As these Indians have probably followed the buffaloe towards the -main branch of Maria’s river, we shall not strike it above the north -branch. The course of the mountains still continues from southeast to -northwest; in which last direction from us, the front range appears -to terminate abruptly at the distance of thirty-five miles. Those -which are to the southwest, and more distinctly in view, are of an -irregular form, composed chiefly of clay, with a very small mixture of -rock, without timber, and although low are yet partially covered with -snow to their bases. The river itself has nearly double the volume of -water which it possessed when we first saw it below, a circumstance -to be ascribed, no doubt, to the great evaporation and absorption -of the water in its passage through these open plains. The rock in -this neighbourhood is of a white colour, and a fine grit, and lies in -horizontal strata in the bluffs of the river. We attempted to take some -fish, but could procure only a single trout. We had, therefore, nothing -to eat, except the grease which we pressed from our tainted meat, and -formed a mush of cows, reserving one meal more of the same kind for -to-morrow. We have seen near this place a number of the whistling -squirrel, common in the country watered by the Columbia, but which we -observed here for the first time in the plains of the Missouri. The -cottonwood too, of this place, is similar to that of the Columbia. Our -observations this evening were prevented by clouds. The weather was -clear for a short time in the morning, - -Thursday, 24, but the sky soon clouded over, and it rained during the -rest of the day. We were therefore obliged to remain one day longer -for the purpose of completing our observations. Our situation now -became unpleasant from the rain, the coldness of the air, and the total -absence of all game; for the hunters could find nothing of a large -kind, and we were obliged to subsist on a few pigeons and a kettle of -mush made of the remainder of our bread of cows. This supplied us with -one more meal in the morning, - -Friday, 25, when finding that the cold and rainy weather would still -detain us here, two of the men were despatched to hunt. They returned -in the evening with a fine buck, on which we fared sumptuously. In -their excursion they had gone as far as the main branch of Maria’s -river, at the distance of ten miles, through an open extensive valley, -in which were scattered a great number of lodges lately evacuated. The -next morning, - -Saturday, 26, the weather was still cloudy, so that no observation -could be made, and what added to our disappointment, captain Lewis’s -chronometer stopped yesterday from some unknown cause, though when -set in motion again it went as usual. We now despaired of taking the -longitude of this place; and as our staying any longer might endanger -our return to the United States during the present season, we, -therefore, waited till nine o’clock, in hopes of a change of weather; -but seeing no prospect of that kind, we mounted our horses, and leaving -with reluctance our position, which we now named Camp Disappointment, -directed our course across the open plains, in a direction nearly -southeast. At twelve miles distance we reached a branch of Maria’s -river, about sixty-five yards wide, which we crossed, and continued -along its southern side for two miles, where it is joined by another -branch, nearly equal in size from the southwest, and far more clear -than the north branch, which is turbid, though the beds of both are -composed of pebbles. We now decided on pursuing this river to its -junction with the fork of Maria’s river, which we had ascended, and -then cross the country obliquely to Tansy river, and descend that -stream to its confluence with Maria’s river. We, therefore, crossed -and descended the river, and at one mile below the junction, halted to -let the horses graze in a fertile bottom, in which were some Indian -lodges, that appear to have been inhabited during the last winter. We -here discern more timber than the country in general possesses; for -besides an undergrowth of rose, honeysuckle, and redberry bushes, and -a small quantity of willow timber, the three species of cottonwood, -the narrow-leafed, the broad-leafed, and the species known to the -Columbia, though here seen for the first time on the Missouri, are all -united at this place. Game too, appears in greater abundance. We saw a -few antelopes and wolves, and killed a buck, besides which we saw also -two of the small burrowing foxes of the plains, about the size of the -common domestic cat, and of a reddish brown colour, except the tail, -which is black. - -At the distance of three miles, we ascended the hills close to the -river side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the -opposite side. But scarcely had captain Lewis reached the high plain, -when he saw about a mile on his left, a collection of about thirty -horses. He immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass -discovered that one half of the horses were saddled, and that on the -eminence above the horses, several Indians were looking down toward -the river, probably at Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their -probable numbers rendered any contest with them of doubtful issue; to -attempt to escape would only invite pursuit, and our horses were so -bad that we must certainly be overtaken; besides which, Drewyer could -not yet be aware that the Indians were near, and if we ran he would -most probably be sacrificed. We therefore determined to make the best -of our situation, and advance towards them in a friendly manner. The -flag which we had brought in case of any such accident was therefore -displayed, and we continued slowly our march towards them. Their whole -attention was so engaged by Drewyer, that they did not immediately -discover us. As soon as they did see us, they appeared to be much -alarmed and ran about in confusion, and some of them came down the -hill and drove their horse within gunshot of the eminence, to which -they then returned, as if to wait our arrival. When we came within a -quarter of a mile, one of the Indians mounted and rode at full speed -to receive us; but when within a hundred paces of us, he halted, and -captain Lewis who had alighted to receive him, held out his hand, and -beckoned to him to approach, he only looked at us for some time, and -then, without saying a word, returned to his companions with as much -haste as he had advanced. The whole party now descended the hill and -rode towards us. As yet we saw only eight, but presumed that there must -be more behind us, as there were several horses saddled. We however -advanced, and captain Lewis now told his two men that he believed these -were the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who, from their infamous -character, would in all probability attempt to rob them; but being -determined to die, rather than lose his papers and instruments, he -intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised them to do the -same, and to be on the alert should there be any disposition to attack -us. When the two parties came within a hundred yards of each other, all -the Indians, except one, halted; captain Lewis therefore ordered his -two men to halt while he advanced, and after shaking hands with the -Indian, went on and did the same with the others in the rear, while the -Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They all now came up, and -after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with us. Captain Lewis, -who was very anxious for Drewyer’s safety, told them that the man who -had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested that as they had -seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields to bring him back. -To this they assented, and R. Fields went with a young man in search -of Drewyer. Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were the -Minnetarees of the north, and was sorry to learn by their answer that -his suspicion was too true. He then inquired if there was any chief -among them. They pointed out three; but though he did not believe them, -yet it was thought best to please them, and he therefore gave to one a -flag, to another a medal, and to a third a handkerchief. They appeared -to be well satisfied with these presents, and now recovered from the -agitation into which our first interview had thrown them, for they -were really more alarmed than ourselves at the meeting. In our turn, -however, we became equally satisfied on finding that they were not -joined by any more of their companions, for we consider ourselves quite -a match for eight Indians, particularly as those have but two guns, -the rest being armed with only eye-dogs and bows and arrows. As it was -growing late captain Lewis proposed that they should encamp together -near the river; for he was glad to see them and had a great deal to say -to them. They assented; and being soon joined by Drewyer, we proceeded -towards the river, and after descending a very steep bluff, two hundred -and fifty feet high, encamped in a small bottom. Here the Indians -formed a large semicircular tent of dressed buffaloe skins, in which -the two parties assembled, and by the means of Drewyer, the evening -was spent in conversation with the Indians. They informed us that they -were a part of a large band which at present lay encamped on the main -branch of Maria’s river, near the foot of the Rocky mountains, and at -the distance of a day and a half’s journey from this place. Another -large band were hunting buffaloe near the Broken mountains, from which -they would proceed in a few days to the north of Maria’s river. With -the first of these there was a white man. They added, that from this -place to the establishment on the Saskashawan, at which they trade, is -only six days’ easy march; that is, such a day’s journey as can be made -with their women and children, so that we computed the distance at one -hundred and fifty miles. There they carry the skins of wolves and some -beavers, and exchange them for guns, ammunition, blankets, spirituous -liquors, and the other articles of Indian traffic. Captain Lewis in -turn informed them that he had come from a great distance up the large -river which runs towards the rising sun; that he had been as far as -the great lake where the sun sets; that he had seen many nations, the -greater part of whom were at war with each other, but by his mediation -were restored to peace; and all had been invited to come and trade with -him west of the mountains: he was now on his way home, but had left -his companions at the falls, and come in search of the Minnetarees, -in hopes of inducing them to live at peace with their neighbours, and -to visit the trading houses which would be formed at the entrance of -Maria’s river. They said that they were anxious of being at peace with -the Tushepaws, but those people had lately killed a number of their -relations, as they proved by showing several of the party who had their -hair cut as a sign of mourning. They were equally willing, they added, -to come down and trade with us. Captain Lewis therefore proposed that -they should send some of their young men to invite all their band to -meet us at the mouth of Maria’s river, and the rest of the party to go -with us to that place, where he hoped to find his men, offering them -ten horses and some tobacco in case they would accompany us. To this -they made no reply. Finding them very fond of the pipe, captain Lewis, -who was desirous of keeping a constant watch during the night, smoked -with them until a late hour, and as soon as they were all asleep, he -woke R. Fields, and ordering him to rouse us all in case any Indian -left the camp, as they would probably attempt to steal our horses, he -lay down by the side of Drewyer in the tent with all the Indians, while -the Fields were stretched near the fire at the mouth of it. At sunrise, - -Sunday 27, the Indians got up and crowded round the fire near which J. -Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near the -head of his brother, who was still asleep. One of the Indians slipped -behind him, and unperceived, took his brother’s and his own rifle, -while at the same time, two others seized those of Drewyer and captain -Lewis. As soon as Fields turned round, he saw the Indian running off -with the rifles, and instantly calling his brother, they pursued him -for fifty or sixty yards, and just as they overtook him, in the scuffle -for the rifles, R. Fields stabbed him through the heart with his knife; -the Indian ran about fifteen steps and fell dead. They now ran back -with their rifles to the camp. The moment the fellow touched his gun, -Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested her from him. The noise -awoke captain Lewis, who instantly started from the ground and reached -to seize his gun, but finding her gone, drew a pistol from his belt -and turning about saw the Indian running off with her. He followed -him and ordered him to lay her down, which he was doing just as the -Fields came up, and were taking aim to shoot him, when captain Lewis -ordered them not to fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any -mischief. He dropped the gun and was going slowly off as Drewyer came -out and asked permission to kill him, but this captain Lewis forbid -as he had not yet attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians -were now endeavouring to drive off all the horses, he ordered three -of them to follow the main party who were chasing the horses up the -river, and fire instantly upon the thieves; while he, without taking -time to run for his shot-pouch, pursued the fellow who had stolen his -gun and another Indian, who were driving away the horses on the left -of the camp. He pressed them so closely that they left twelve of their -horses, but continued to drive off one of our own. At the distance of -three hundred paces they entered a steep niche in the river bluffs, -when captain Lewis, being too much out of breath to pursue them any -further, called out, as he did several times before, that unless they -gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he raised his gun one of the -Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other, who stopped at -the distance of thirty paces, as captain Lewis shot him in the belly. -He fell on his knees and right elbow, but raising himself a little, -fired, and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had nearly been fatal, -for captain Lewis, who was bare-headed, felt the wind of the ball very -distinctly. Not having his shot-pouch, he could not reload his rifle, -and having only a single load also for his pistol, he thought it most -prudent not to attack the Indians, and therefore retired slowly to -the camp. He was met by Drewyer, who hearing the report of the guns, -had come to his assistance, leaving the Fields to pursue the Indians. -Captain Lewis ordered him to call out to them to desist from the -pursuit, as we could take the horses of the Indians in place of our -own, but they were at too great a distance to hear him. He therefore -returned to the camp, and whilst he was saddling the horses, the Fields -returned with four of our own, having followed the Indians until two -of them swam the river, two others ascended the hills, so that the -horses became dispersed. We, however, were rather gainers by this -contest, for we took four of the Indian horses, and lost only one of -our own. Besides which, we found in the camp four shields, two bows -with quivers, and one of the guns which we took with us, and also the -flag which we had presented to them, but left the medal round the neck -of the dead man, in order that they might be informed who we were. The -rest of their luggage, except some buffaloe meat, we left; and as there -was no time to be lost, we mounted our horses, and after ascending the -river hills, took our course through the beautiful level plains, in a -direction a little to the south of east. We had no doubt but that we -should be immediately pursued by a much larger party, and that as soon -as intelligence was given to the band near the Broken mountains, they -would hasten to the mouth of Maria’s river to intercept us. We hope, -however, to be there before them, so as to form a junction with our -friends. We therefore pushed our horses as fast as we possibly could; -and fortunately for us, the Indian horses were very good, the plains -perfectly level, and without many stones or prickly pears, and in fine -order for travelling after the late rains. At eight miles from our camp -we passed a stream forty yards wide, to which, from the occurrence of -the morning, we gave the name of Battle river. At three o’clock we -reached Rose river, five miles above where we had formerly passed it, -and having now came by estimate sixty-three miles, halted for an hour -and a half to refresh our horses; then pursued our journey seventeen -miles further, when, as the night came on, we killed a buffaloe, and -again stopped for two hours. The sky was now overclouded, but as the -moon gave light enough to show us the route, we continued along through -immense herds of buffaloe for twenty miles, and then almost exhausted -with fatigue, halted at two in the morning, - -Monday, 28, to rest ourselves and the horses. At daylight we awoke -sore and scarcely able to stand; but as our own lives as well as those -of our companions depended on our pressing forward, we mounted our -horses and set out. The men were desirous of crossing the Missouri, -at the Grog spring, where Rose river approaches so near the river, -and passing down the southwest side of it, and thus avoid the country -at the junction of the two rivers, through which the enemy would most -probably pursue us. But as this circuitous route would consume the -whole day, and the Indians might in the meantime attack the canoes at -the point, captain Lewis told his party it was now their duty to risk -their lives for their friends and companions; that he would proceed -immediately to the point, to give the alarm to the canoes, and if they -had not yet arrived, he would raft the Missouri, and after hiding the -baggage, ascend the river on foot through the woods till he met them. -He told them also that it was his determination, in case they were -attacked in crossing the plains, to tie the bridles of the horses and -stand together till they had either routed their enemies, or sold -their lives as dearly as possible. To this they all assented, and we -therefore continued our route to the eastward, till at the distance of -twelve miles we came near the Missouri, when we heard a noise which -seemed like the report of a gun. We therefore quickened our pace for -eight miles further, and about five miles from the Grog spring, now -heard distinctly the noise of several rifles, from the river. We -hurried to the bank, and saw with exquisite satisfaction our friends -coming down the river. They landed to greet us, and after turning our -horses loose, we embarked with our baggage, and went down to the spot -where we had made a deposit. This, after reconnoitering the adjacent -country, we opened; but unfortunately the cache had caved in, and -most of the articles were injured. We took whatever was still worth -preserving, and immediately proceeded to the point, where we found our -deposits in good order. By a singular good fortune we were here joined -by serjeant Gass and Willard from the falls, who had been ordered to -bring the horses here to assist in collecting meat for the voyage, as -it had been calculated that the canoes would reach this place much -sooner than captain Lewis’s party. After a very heavy shower of rain -and hail, attended with violent thunder and lightning, we left the -point, and giving a final discharge to our horses, went over to the -island where we had left our red periogue, which however we found so -much decayed that we had no means of repairing her: we, therefore, took -all the iron work out of her, and proceeded down the river fifteen -miles, and encamped near some cottonwood trees, one of which was of the -narrow-leafed species, and the first of that species we had remarked as -we ascended the river. - -Serjeant Ordway’s party, which had left the mouth of Madison river on -the 13th, had descended in safety to the Whitebear islands, where he -arrived on the 19th, and after collecting the baggage, left the falls -on the 27th in the white periogue, and five canoes, while serjeant Gass -and Willard set out at the same time by land with the horses, and thus -fortunately met together. - -Tuesday, 29. A violent storm of rain and hail came on last night, -and as we had no means of making a shelter, we lay in the rain, and -during the whole day continued so exposed. The two small canoes were -sent ahead in order to hunt elk and buffaloe, which are in immense -quantities, so as to provide shelter as well as food for the party. -We then proceeded very rapidly with the aid of a strong current, and -after passing at one o’clock the Natural walls, encamped late in the -evening at our former encampment of the 29th of May, 1806. The river is -now as high as it has been during the present season, and every little -rivulet discharges torrents of water, which bring down such quantities -of mud and sand, that we can scarcely drink the water of the Missouri. -The buffaloe continue to be very numerous, but the elk are few. The -bighorns, however, are in great numbers along the steep cliffs of the -river, and being now in fine order, their flesh is extremely tender, -delicate, and well flavoured, and resembles in colour and flavour our -mutton, though it is not so strong. The brown curlew has disappeared, -and has probably gone to some other climate after rearing its young in -these plains. - -Wednesday, 30. The rain still prevented us from stopping to dry our -baggage, and we therefore proceeded with a strong current, which joined -to our oars, enabled us to advance at the rate of seven miles an hour. -We went on shore several times for the purpose of hunting, and procured -several bighorns, two buffaloe, a beaver, an elk, and a female brown -bear, whose talons were six and a quarter inches in length. In the -evening we encamped on an island two miles above Goodrich’s island, and -early in the morning, - -Thursday, 31, continued our route in the rain, passing, during the -greater part of the day, through high pine hills, succeeded by low -grounds abounding in timber and game. The buffaloe are scarce; but we -procured fifteen elk, fourteen deer, two bighorns, and a beaver. The -elk are in fine order, particularly the males, who now herd together -in small parties. Their horns have reached their full growth, but ill -retain the velvet or skin which covers them. Through the bottoms are -scattered a number of lodges, some of which seem to have been built -last winter, and were probably occupied by the Minnetarees of Fort de -Prairie. The river is still rising, and more muddy than we have ever -seen it. Late last night we took shelter from the rain in some old -Indian lodges, about eight miles below the entrance of North-mountain -creek, and then set out, - -Friday, August 1, at an early hour. We passed the Muscleshell river at -eleven o’clock, and fifteen miles further landed at some Indian lodges, -where we determined to pass the night, for the rain still continued, -and we feared that the skins of the bighorn would spoil by being -constantly wet. Having made fires, therefore, and exposed them to dry, -we proceeded to hunt. The next day, - -Saturday, 2, was fair and warm, and we availed ourselves of this -occasion to dry all our baggage in the sun. Such is the immediate -effect of fair weather, that since last evening the river has fallen -eighteen inches. Two men were sent forward in a canoe to hunt; and now, -having reloaded our canoes, we resolved to go on as fast as possible, -and accordingly set out, - -Sunday, 3, at an early hour, and without stopping as usual to cook -a dinner, encamped in the evening two miles above our camp of May -12, 1805. We were here joined by the two hunters, who had killed -twenty-nine deer since they left us. These animals are in great -abundance in the river bottoms, and very gentle. We passed also a -great number of elk, wolves, some bear, beaver, geese, a few ducks, -the party-coloured corvus, a calumet eagle, some bald eagles, and -red-headed woodpeckers, but very few buffaloe. By four o’clock next -morning, - -Monday, 4, we were again in motion. At eleven we passed the Bigdry -river, which has now a bold, even, but shallow current, sixty yards in -width, and halted for a few minutes at the mouth of Milk river. This -stream is at present full of water, resembling in colour that of the -Missouri, and as it possesses quite as much water as Maria’s river, we -have no doubt that it extends to a considerable distance towards the -north. We here killed a very large rattlesnake. Soon after we passed -several herds of buffaloe and elk, and encamped at night, two miles -below the gulf, on the northeast side of the river. For the first -time this season we were saluted with the cry of the whippoorwill, or -goatsucker of the Missouri. - -Tuesday, 5. We waited until noon in hopes of being overtaken by two of -the men, who had gone ahead in a canoe to hunt two days ago, but who -were at a distance from the river, as we passed them. As they did not -arrive by that time, we concluded that they had passed us in the night, -and therefore proceeded until late, when we encamped about ten miles -below Littledry river. We again saw great numbers of buffaloe, elk, -deer, antelope, and wolves; also eagles, and other birds, among which -were geese and a solitary pelican, neither of whom can fly at present, -as they are now shedding the feathers of their wings. We also saw -several bear, one of them the largest, except one, we had ever seen, -for he measured nine feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. - -During the night a violent storm came on from the northeast with such -torrents of rain that we had scarcely time to unload the canoes before -they filled with water. Having no shelter, we ourselves were completely -wet to the skin, and the wind and cold air made our situation very -unpleasant. We left it early, - -Wednesday, 6; but after we had passed Porcupine river, were, by the -high wind, obliged to lie by until four o’clock, when the wind abating -we continued, and at night encamped five miles below our camp of the -1st of May, 1805. Here we were again drenched by the rain, which -lasted all the next morning, - -Thursday, 7; but being resolved, if possible, to reach the Yellowstone, -a distance of eighty-three miles, in the course of the day, we set -out early, and being favoured by the rapid current and good oarsmen, -proceeded with great speed. In passing Martha’s river, we observed that -its mouth is at present a quarter of a mile lower than it was last -year. Here we find for the first time the appearance of coal-burnt -hills and pumicestone, which seem always to accompany each other. At -this place also are the first elms and dwarf cedars in the bluffs of -the river. The ash first makes its appearance in one solitary tree -at the Ash rapid, but is seen occasionally scattered through the low -grounds at the Elk rapid, and thence downwards, though it is generally -small. The whole country on the northeast side, between Martha and -Milk rivers, is a beautiful level plain, with a soil much more fertile -than that higher up the river. The buffaloe, elk, and other animals -still continue numerous; as are also the bear, who lie in wait at the -crossing places, where they seize elk and the weaker cattle, and then -stay by the carcase in order to keep off the wolves, till the whole is -devoured. At four o’clock we reached the mouth of Yellowstone, where -we found a note from captain Clarke, informing us of his intention of -waiting for us a few miles below. We therefore left a memorandum for -our two huntsmen, whom we now supposed must be behind us, and then -pursued our course till night came on, and not being able to overtake -captain Clarke, we encamped. In the morning, - -Friday, 8, we set out in hopes of overtaking captain Clarke; but -after descending to nearly the entrance of White-earth river without -being able to see him, we were at a loss what to conjecture. In this -situation we landed, and began to caulk and repair the canoes, as -well as prepare some skins for clothing, for since we left the Rocky -mountains we have had no leisure to make clothes, so that the greater -part of the men are almost naked. In these occupations we passed -this and the following day, without any interruption except from the -musquetoes, which are very troublesome, and then having completed the -repairs of the canoes, we embarked, - -Sunday, 10, at five in the afternoon; but the wind and rain prevented -us going further than near the entrance of White-earth river. The next -day, - -Monday 11, being anxious to reach the Burnt hills by noon, in order -to ascertain the latitude, we went forward with great rapidity; but -by the time we reached that place, it was twenty minutes too late to -take the meridian altitude. Having lost the observation, captain Lewis -observed on the opposite side of the river, a herd of elk on a thick -sandbar of willows, and landed with Cruzatte to hunt them. Each of them -fired and shot an elk. They then reloaded and took different routes -in pursuit of the game, when just as captain Lewis was taking aim at -an elk, a ball struck him in the left thigh, about an inch below the -joint of the hip, and missing the bone, went through the left thigh and -grazed the right to the depth of the ball. It instantly occurred to -him that Cruzatte must have shot him by mistake for an elk, as he was -dressed in brown leather, and Cruzatte had not a very good eye-sight. -He therefore called out that he was shot, and looked towards the place -from which the ball came; but seeing nothing, he called on Cruzatte -by name several times, but received no answer. He now thought that as -Cruzatte was out of hearing, and the shot did not seem to come from -more than forty paces distance, it must have been fired by an Indian; -and not knowing how many might be concealed in the bushes, he made -towards the periogue, calling out to Cruzatte to retreat as there were -Indians in the willows. As soon as he reached the periogue, he ordered -the men to arms, and mentioning that he was wounded, though he hoped -not mortally by the Indians, bade them follow him to relieve Cruzatte. -They instantly followed for an hundred paces, when his wound became so -painful, and his thigh stiffened in such a manner, that he could go no -further. He therefore ordered the men to proceed, and if overpowered -by numbers, retreat towards the boats, keeping up a fire; then limping -back to the periogue, he prepared himself with his rifle, a pistol, -and the air-gun, to sell his life dearly in case the men should be -overcome. In this state of anxiety and suspence he remained for about -twenty minutes, when the party returned with Cruzatte, and reported -that no Indians could be seen in the neighbourhood. Cruzatte was now -much alarmed, and declared that he had shot an elk after captain Lewis -left him, but disclaimed every idea of having intentionally wounded his -officer. There was no doubt but that he was the person who gave the -wound, yet as it seemed to be perfectly accidental, and Cruzatte had -always conducted himself with propriety, no further notice was taken of -it. The wound was now dressed, and patent lint put into the holes; but -though it bled considerably, yet as the ball had touched neither a bone -nor an artery, we hope that it may not prove fatal. As it was, however, -impossible for him to make the observation of the latitude of the Burnt -hills, which is chiefly desirable, as being the most northern parts -of the Missouri, he declined remaining till to-morrow, and proceeded -on till evening. Captain Lewis could not now be removed without great -pain, as he had a high fever. He therefore remained on board during the -night, and early the next morning, - -Tuesday, 12, proceeded with as much expedition as possible, and soon -afterwards we put ashore to visit a camp, which we found to be that -of Dickson and Hancock, the two Illinois traders, who told us that -they had seen captain Clarke yesterday. As we stopped with them, we -were overtaken by our two hunters, Colter and Collins, who had been -missing since the third, and whose absence excited much uneasiness. -They informed us, that after following us the first day, they concluded -that we must be behind, and waited for us during several days, when -they were convinced of their mistake, and had then come on as rapidly -as they could. We made some presents to the two traders, and then -proceeded till at one o’clock we joined our friends and companions -under captain Clarke. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - The party commanded by captain Clarke, previous to his being - joined by captain Lewis, proceed along Clarke’s river, in - pursuance of the route mentioned in a preceding chapter--their - sorry commemoration of our national anniversary--an instance of - Sacajawea’s strength of memory--description of the river and of - the surrounding country as the party proceed--several of the - horses belonging to the party supposed to be stolen by their - Indian neighbors--they reach Wisdom river--extraordinary heat - of a spring--the strong attachment of the party for tobacco, - which they find on opening a cache--serjeant Ordway recovers - the horses--captain Clarke divides his party, one detachment - of which was to descend the river--they reach Gallatin and - Jefferson rivers, of which a description is given--arrive - at the Yellowstone river--some account of Otter and Beaver - rivers--an example of Indian fortification--one of the party - seriously and accidentally wounded--engaged in the construction - of canoes--twenty-four horses stolen, probably by the Indians, - in one night. - - -Thursday, July 3, 1806. On taking leave of captain Lewis and the -Indians, the other division, consisting of captain Clarke with fifteen -men and fifty horses, set out through the valley of Clarke’s river, -along the western side of which they rode in a southern direction. The -valley is from ten to fifteen miles in width, tolerably level, and -partially covered with the long-leafed and the pitch pine, with some -cottonwood, birch, and sweet willow on the borders of the streams. -Among the herbage are two species of clover, one the white clover -common to the western parts of the United States, the other much -smaller both in its leaf and blossom than either the red or white -clover, and particularly relished by the horses. After crossing eight -different streams of water, four of which were small, we halted at the -distance of eighteen miles on the upper side of a large creek, where we -let our horses graze, and after dinner resumed our journey in the same -direction we had pursued during the morning, till at the distance of -eighteen miles further, we encamped on the north side of a large creek. -The valley became more beautiful as we proceeded, and was diversified -by a number of small open plains, abounding with grass, and a variety -of sweet-scented plants, and watered by ten streams which rush from the -western mountains with considerable velocity. The mountains themselves -are covered with snow about one fifth from the top, and some snow is -still to be seen on the high points and in the hollows of the mountains -to the eastward. In the course of our ride we saw a great number of -deer, a single bear, and some of the burrowing squirrels common about -the Quamash flats. The musquetoes too were very troublesome. - -Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out, and -the rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we -proceeded at seven o’clock up the valley, which is now contracted to -the width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch -pine, though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are -strewed with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, -but of great depth, and so rapid, that in passing the last, several of -the horses were driven down the stream, and some of our baggage wet. -Near this river we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to -be Shoshonees. Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an early hour -for the purpose of doing honour to the birth-day of our country’s -independence. The festival was not very splendid, for it consisted of -a mush made of cows and a saddle of venison, nor had we any thing to -tempt us to prolong it. We therefore went on till at the distance of -a mile we came to a very large creek, which, like all those in the -valley, had an immense rapidity of descent; and we therefore proceeded -up for some distance, in order to select the most convenient spot for -fording. Even there, however, such was the violence of the current, -that although the water was not higher than the bellies of the horses, -the resistance they made in passing caused the stream to rise over -their backs and loads. After passing the creek we inclined to the left, -and soon after struck the road which we had descended last year, near -the spot where we dined on the 7th of September. Along this road we -continued on the west side of Clarke’s river, till at the distance of -thirteen miles, during which we passed three more deep large creeks, we -reached its western branch, where we encamped, and having sent out two -hunters, despatched some men to examine the best ford across the river. -The game of to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a herd of -ibex, or bighorn. By daylight the next morning, - -Saturday, July 5, we again examined the fords, and having discovered -what we conceived to be the best, begun the passage at a place where -the river is divided by small islands into six different channels. -We, however, crossed them all without any damage, except wetting some -of our provisions and merchandise; and at the distance of a mile came -to the eastern branch, up which we proceeded about a mile, till we -came into the old road we had descended in the autumn. It soon led us -across the river, which we found had fallen to the same depth at which -we found it last autumn, and along its eastern bank to the foot of -the mountain nearly opposite Flower creek. Here we halted to let our -horses graze, near a spot where there was still a fire burning and the -tracks of two horses, which we presumed to be Shoshonees; and having -dried all our provisions, proceeded at about four o’clock, across the -mountain into the valley where we had first seen the Flatheads. We -then crossed the river, which we now perceived took its rise from a -high peaked mountain at about twenty miles to the northeast of the -valley, and then passed up it for two miles, and encamped after a ride -of twenty miles during the day. As soon as we halted several men were -despatched in different directions to examine the road, and from -their report, concluded that the best path would be one about three -miles up the creek. This is the road travelled by the Ootlashoots, and -will certainly shorten our route two days at least, besides being much -better, as we had been informed by the Indians, than by that we came -last fall. - -Sunday, 6. The night was very cold, succeeded by frost in the morning; -and as the horses were much scattered, we were not able to set out -before nine o’clock. We then went along the creek for three miles, -and leaving to the right the path by which we came last fall, pursued -the road taken by the Ootlashoots, up a gentle ascent to the dividing -mountain which separates the waters of the middle fork of Clarke’s -river, from those of Wisdom and Lewis’s rivers. On reaching the other -side, we came to Glade creek, down which we proceeded, crossing it -frequently into the glades on each side, where the timber is small, and -in many places destroyed by fire; where are great quantities of quamash -now in bloom. Throughout the glades are great numbers of holes made by -the whistling or burrowing squirrel; and we killed a hare of the large -mountain species. Along these roads there are also appearances of old -buffaloe paths, and some old heads of buffaloes; and as these animals -have wonderful sagacity in the choice of their routes, the coincidence -of a buffaloe with an Indian road, was the strongest assurance that it -was the best. In the afternoon we passed along the hill-side, north of -the creek, till, in the course of six miles, we entered an extensive -level plain. Here the tracks of the Indians scattered so much that -we could no longer pursue it, but Sacajaweah recognised the plain -immediately. She had travelled it often during her childhood, and -informed us that it was the great resort of the Shoshonees, who came -for the purpose of gathering quamash and cows, and of taking beaver, -with which the plain abounded, and that Glade creek was a branch of -Wisdom river, and that on reaching the higher part of the plain, we -should see a gap in the mountains, on the course to our canoes, and -from that gap a high point of mountain covered with snow. At the -distance of a mile we crossed a large creek from the right, rising, as -well as Fish creek, in a snowy mountain, over which there is a gap. -Soon after, on ascending a rising ground, the country spreads itself -into a beautiful plain, extending north and south about fifteen miles -wide and thirty in length, and surrounded on all sides by high points -of mountains covered with snow, among which was the gap pointed out by -the squaw, bearing S. 56° E. We had not gone two miles from the last -creek when we were overtaken by a violent storm of wind, accompanied -with hard rain, which lasted an hour and a half. Having no shelter, -we formed a solid column to protect ourselves from the gust, and then -went on five miles to a small creek, where finding some small timber, -we encamped for the night, and dried ourselves. We here observed some -fresh signs of Indians, who had been gathering quamash. Our distance -was twenty-six miles. In the morning, - -Monday, 7, our horses were so much scattered, that although we sent -out hunters in every direction, to range the country for six or eight -miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most valuable -of all our horses, and so much attached to some of their companions, -that it was difficult to separate them in the daytime. We therefore -presumed that they must have been stolen by some roving Indians, and -accordingly left a party of five men to continue the pursuit, while -the rest went on to the spot where the canoes had been deposited. -Accordingly we set out at ten o’clock, and pursued a course S. 56° E. -across the valley, which we found to be watered by four large creeks, -with extensive low and miry bottoms; and then reached Wisdom river, -along the northeast side of which we continued, till at the distance -of sixteen miles we came to the three branches. Near that place we -stopped for dinner at a hot spring situated in the open plain. The bed -of the spring is about fifteen yards in circumference, and composed -of loose, hard, gritty stones, through which the water boils in great -quantities. It is slightly impregnated with sulphur, and so hot that -a piece of meat about the size of three fingers, was completely done -in twenty-five minutes. After dinner we proceeded across the eastern -branch, and along the north side of the middle branch for nine miles, -when we reached the gap in the mountains, and took our last leave of -this extensive valley, which we called the Hotspring valley. It is -indeed a beautiful country; though enclosed by mountains covered with -snow, the soil is exceedingly fertile and well supplied with esculent -plants; while its numerous creeks furnish immense quantities of beaver. -Another valley less extensive and more rugged opened itself to our view -as we passed through the gap; but as we had made twenty-five miles, and -the night was advancing, we halted near some handsome springs, which -fall into Willard’s creek. After a cold night, during which our horses -separated and could not be collected till eight o’clock in the morning. - -Tuesday 8, we crossed the valley along the southwest side of Willard’s -creek for twelve miles, when it entered the mountains, and then turning -S. 20° E. came to the Shoshonee cove, after riding seven miles; whence -we proceeded down the west branch of Jefferson river, and at the -distance of nine miles, reached its forks, where we had deposited our -merchandise in the month of August. Most of the men were in the habit -of chewing tobacco; and such was their eagerness to procure it after so -long a privation, that they scarcely took the saddles from their horses -before they ran to the cave, and were delighted at being able to resume -this fascinating indulgence. This was one of the severest privations -which we have encountered. Some of the men, whose tomahawks were so -constructed as to answer the purposes of pipes, broke the handles -of these instruments, and after cutting them into small fragments, -chewed them; the wood having, by frequent smoking, become strongly -impregnated with the taste of that plant. We found every thing safe, -though some of the goods were a little damp, and one of the canoes had -a hole. The ride of this day was twenty-seven miles in length, and -through a country diversified by low marshy grounds, and high, open, -and stony plains, terminated by high mountains, on the tops and along -the northern sides of which the snow still remained. Over the whole -were scattered great quantities of hysop and the different species of -shrubs, common to the plains of the Missouri. - -We had now crossed the whole distance from Travellers’-rest creek -to the head of Jefferson’s river, which seems to form the best and -shortest route over the mountains, during almost the whole distance -of one hundred and sixty-four miles. It is, in fact, a very excellent -road, and by cutting a few trees, might be rendered a good route -for wagons, with the exception of about four miles over one of the -mountains, which would require some levelling. - -Wednesday, 9. We were all occupied in raising and repairing the -canoes, and making the necessary preparations for resuming our journey -to-morrow. The day proved cold and windy, so that the canoes were soon -dried. We were here overtaken by serjeant Ordway and his party, who had -discovered our horses near the head of the creek on which we encamped, -and although they were very much scattered, and endeavoured to escape -as fast as they could, he brought them back. The squaw found to-day a -plant which grows in the moist lands, the root of which is eaten by the -Indians. The stem and leaf, as well as the root of this plant, resemble -the common carrot, in form, size and taste, though the colour is of -somewhat a paler yellow. The night continued very cold, and in the -morning, - -Thursday 10, a white frost covered the ground; the grass was frozen, -and the ice three quarters of an inch thick in a basin of water. The -boats were now loaded, and captain Clarke divided his men into two -bands, one to descend the river with the baggage, while he, with -the other, proceeded on horseback to the Rochejaune. After breakfast -the two parties set out, those on shore skirting the eastern side of -Jefferson river, through Service valley, and over the Rattlesnake -mountain, into a beautiful and extensive country, known among the -Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, or Beaverhead valley, from the -number of those animals to be found in it, and also from a point of -land resembling the head of a beaver. It extends from the Rattlesnake -mountain as low as Frazier’s creek, and is about fifty miles in length, -in a direct line, while its width varies from ten to fifteen miles, -being watered in its whole course by the Jefferson and six different -creeks. The valley is open and fertile, and besides the innumerable -quantities of beaver and otter, with which its creeks are supplied, the -bushes of the low grounds are a favorite resort for deer, while on the -higher parts of the valley are seen scattered groups of antelopes, and -still further, on the steep sides of the mountains, we observed many -of the bighorn, which take refuge there from the wolves and bears. At -the distance of fifteen miles the two parties stopped to dine, when -captain Clarke finding that the river became wider and deeper, and that -the canoes could advance more rapidly than the horses, determined to -go himself by water, leaving serjeant Pryor with six men, to bring on -the horses. In this way they resumed their journey after dinner, and -encamped on the eastern side of the river, opposite the head of the -Three-thousand mile island. The beaver were basking in great numbers -along the shore; they saw also some young wild geese and ducks. The -musquetoes were very troublesome during the day, but after sunset the -weather became cool and they disappeared. The next morning, - -Friday, 11, captain Clarke sent four men ahead to hunt, and after -an early breakfast proceeded down a very narrow channel, which was -rendered more difficult by a high southwest wind, which blew from the -high snowy mountains in that quarter, and met them in the face at -every bend of the river, which was now become very crooked. At noon -they passed the high point of land on the left, to which Beaverhead -valley owes its name, and at six o’clock reached Philanthropy river, -which was at present very low. The wind now shifted to the northeast, -and though high, was much warmer than before. At seven o’clock they -reached their encampment at the entrance of Wisdom river on the sixth -of August. They found the river very high, but falling. Here too, they -overtook the hunters, who had killed a buck and some young geese. -Besides these they had seen a great number of geese and sandhill -cranes, and some deer. The beaver too were in great quantities along -the banks of the rivers, and through the night were flapping their -tails in the water round the boats. Having found the canoe which had -been left here as they ascended, they employed themselves, - -Saturday, 12, till eight o’clock in drawing out the nails and making -paddles of the sides of it. Then leaving one of their canoes here, they -set out after breakfast. Immediately below the forks the current became -stronger than above, and the course of the river straighter, as far as -Panther creek, after which it became much more crooked. A high wind now -arose from the snowy mountains to the northwest, so that it was with -much difficulty and some danger they reached, at three o’clock, the -entrance of Field’s creek. After dining at that place, they pursued -their course and stopped for the night below their encampment of the -31st of July last. Beaver, young geese, and deer continued to be their -game, and they saw some old signs of buffaloe. The musquetoes also were -still very troublesome. - -Sunday, 13. Early in the morning they set out, and at noon reached the -entrance of Madison river, where serjeant Pryor had arrived with the -horses about an hour before. The horses were then driven across Madison -and Gallatin rivers, and the whole party halted to dine and unload the -canoes below the mouth of the latter. Here the two parties separated; -serjeant Ordway with nine men set out in six canoes to descend the -river, while captain Clarke with the remaining ten, and the wife and -child of Chaboneau, were to proceed by land, with fifty horses, to -Yellowstone river. They set out at five in the afternoon from the forks -of the Missouri, in a direction nearly eastward; but as many of the -horses had sore feet, they were obliged to move slowly, and after going -four miles, halted for the night on the bank of Gallatin’s river. This -is a beautiful stream, and though the current is rapid and obstructed -by islands near its mouth, is navigable for canoes. On its lower side -the land rises gradually to the foot of a mountain, running almost -parallel to it; but the country below it and Madison’s river is a level -plain, covered at present with low grass, the soil being poor, and -injured by stones and strata of hard white rock along the hill sides. -Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in the -low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin’s river, and elk, -wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese, were seen at different parts -of the route. The plain was intersected by several great roads, leading -to a gap in the mountain, about twenty miles distant, in a direction -E.N.E. but the Indian woman, who was acquainted with the country, -recommended a gap more to the southward. This course captain Clarke -determined to pursue; and therefore at an early hour in the morning. - -Monday, 14, crossed Gallatin’s river in a direction south 78° east, and -passing over a level plain, reached the Jefferson at the distance of -six miles. That river is here divided into many channels, which spread -themselves for several miles through the low grounds, and are dammed -up by the beaver in such a manner, that after attempting in rain to -reach the opposite side, they were obliged to turn short about to the -right, till with some difficulty they reached a low but firm island, -extending nearly in the course they desired to follow. The squaw now -assured captain Clarke that the large road from Medicine river to the -gap we were seeking, crossed the upper part of the plain. He therefore -proceeded four miles up the plain and reached the main channel of the -river, which is still navigable for canoes, though much divided and -dammed up by multitudes of beaver. Having forded the river, they passed -through a little skirt of cottonwood timber to a low open plain, where -they dined. They saw elk, deer, and antelopes, and in every direction -the roads made by the buffaloe, as well as some old signs of them. -The squaw informed them, that but a few years ago these animals were -numerous, not only here but even to the sources of Jefferson’s river; -but of late they have disappeared, for the Shoshonees being fearful -of going west of the mountains, have hunted this country with more -activity, and of course driven the buffaloe from their usual haunts. -After dinner they continued inclining to the south of east, through an -open level plain, till at the distance of twelve miles they reached -the three forks of Gallatin’s river. On crossing the southerly branch, -they fell into the buffaloe road, described by the squaw, which led -them up the middle branch for two miles; this branch is provided with -immense quantities of beaver, but is sufficiently navigable for small -canoes, by unlading at the worst dams. After crossing, they went on a -mile further, and encamped at the beginning of the gap in the mountain, -which here forms a kind of semicircle, through which the three branches -of the river pass. Several roads come in from the right and left, all -tending to the gap. A little snow still remains on a naked mountain to -the eastward, but in every other direction the mountains are covered -with great quantities. - -Tuesday, 15. After an early breakfast they pursued the buffaloe road -over a low gap in the mountain to the heads of the eastern fork of -Gallatin’s river, near which they had encamped last evening, and at -the distance of six miles reached the top of the dividing ridge, which -separates the waters of the Missouri and the Yellowstone; and on -descending the ridge, they struck one of the streams of the latter -river. They followed its course through an open country, with high -mountains on each side, partially covered with pine, and watered by -several streams, crowded as usual with beaver dams. Nine miles from the -top of the ridge they reached the Yellowstone itself, about a mile and -a half below where it issues from the Rocky mountains. It now appeared -that the communication between the two rivers was short and easy. -From the head of the Missouri at its three forks to this place is a -distance of forty-eight miles, the greater part of which is through a -level plain; indeed, from the forks of the eastern branch of Gallatin’s -river, which is there navigable for small canoes, to this part of the -Yellowstone, the distance is no more than eighteen miles, with an -excellent road over a high, dry country, with hills of inconsiderable -height and no difficulty in passing. They halted three hours to rest -their horses, and then pursued the buffaloe road along the bank of the -river. Although just leaving a high snowy mountain, the Yellowstone is -already a bold, rapid, and deep stream, one hundred and twenty yards -in width. The bottoms of the river are narrow within the mountains, -but widen to the extent of nearly two miles in the valley below, where -they are occasionally overflowed, and the soil gives nourishment to -cottonwood, rosebushes, honeysuckle, rushes, common coarse grass, a -species of rye, and such productions of moist lands. On each side -these low grounds are bounded by dry plains of coarse gravel and sand, -stretching back to the foot of the mountains, and supplied with a very -short grass. The mountains on the east side of the river are rough and -rocky, and still retain great quantities of snow, and two other high -snowy mountains may be distinguished, one bearing north fifteen or -twenty miles, the other nearly east. They have no covering except a few -scattered pine, nor indeed was any timber fit for even a small canoe -to be seen. At the distance of nine miles from the mountain, a river -discharges itself into the Yellowstone, from the northwest, under a -high rocky cliff. It rises from the snowy mountains in that direction; -is about thirty-five yards wide; has a bold, deep current; is skirted -by some cottonwood and willow trees, and like the Yellowstone itself, -seems to abound in beaver. They gave it the name of Shields’s river, -after one of the party. Immediately below is a very good buffaloe road, -which obviously leads from its head through a gap in the mountain, -over to the waters of the Missouri. They passed Shields’s river, and -at three miles further, after crossing a high rocky hill, encamped in -a low bottom, near the entrance of a small creek. As they came through -the mountains they had seen two black bear and a number of antelopes, -as well as several herds of elk, of between two and three hundred in -number, but they were able to kill only a single elk. The next morning, - -Wednesday, 16, therefore, a hunter was despatched ahead, while the -party collected the straggling horses. They then proceeded down the -river, which is very straight, and has several islands covered with -cottonwood and willow; but they could not procure a single tree large -enough for a canoe, and being unwilling to trust altogether to skin -canoes, captain Clarke preferred going on until they found some timber. -The feet of the horses were now nearly worn to the quick, particularly -the hind feet, so that they were obliged to make a sort of moccasin -of green buffaloe skin, which relieved them very much in crossing the -plains. After passing a bold creek from the south, of twenty yards in -width, they halted for dinner on an island, then went on till at night -they encamped near the entrance of another small stream, having made -twenty-six miles during the day. They saw some bear and great numbers -of antelopes and elks; but the soreness of their horses’ feet rendered -it difficult to chase them. One of the men caught a fish which they had -not seen before; it was eight inches long, and resembled a trout in -form, but its mouth was like that of the sturgeon, and it had a red -streak passing on each side from the gills to the tail. In the plains -were but few plants except the silk-grass, the wild indigo, and the -sunflower, which are now all in bloom. The high grounds on the river -are faced with a deep freestone rock, of a hard, sharp grit, which may -also be seen in perpendicular strata throughout the plain. - -Thursday, 17. It rained during the night, and as the party had no -covering but a buffaloe skin, they rose drenched with water; and -pursuing their journey at an early hour, over the point of a ridge, and -through an open low bottom, reached at the distance of six and a half -miles, a part of the river, where two large creeks enter immediately -opposite to each other; one from the northwest, the other from the -south of southwest. These captain Clarke called Rivers-across. Ten -miles and a half further they halted for dinner below the entrance of a -large creek on the northeast side, about thirty yards in width, which -they named Otter river. Nearly opposite to this is another, to which -they gave the name of Beaver river. The waters of both are of a milky -colour, and the banks well supplied with small timber. The river is now -becoming more divided by islands, and a number of small creeks fall -in on both sides. The largest of these is about seven miles from the -Beaver river, and enters on the right: they called it Bratton’s river, -from one of the men. The highlands too approach the river more nearly -than before, but although their sides are partially supplied with pine -and cedar, the growth is still too small for canoes. The buffaloe is -beginning to be more abundant, and to-day, for the first time on this -river, they saw a pelican; but deer and elk are now more scarce than -before. In one of the low bottoms of the river was an Indian fort, -which seems to have been built during the last summer. It was built in -the form of a circle, about fifty feet in diameter, five feet high, and -formed of logs, lapping over each other, and covered on the outside -with bark set up on end. The entrance also was guarded by a work on -each side of it, facing the river. These intrenchments, the squaw -informs us, are frequently made by the Minnetarees and other Indians at -war with the Shoshonees, when pursued by their enemies on horseback. -After making thirty-three miles, they encamped near a point of woods in -the narrow bottom of the river. - -Friday, 18. Before setting out they killed two buffaloe, which ventured -near the camp, and then pursued their route over the ridges of the -highlands, so as to avoid the bends of the river, which now washes -the feet of the hills. The face of the country is rough and stony, -and covered with immense quantities of the prickly pear. The river -is nearly two hundred yards wide, rapid as usual, and with a bed of -coarse gravel and round stones. The same materials are the basis of -the soil in the high bottoms, with a mixture of dark brown earth. -The river hills are about two hundred feet high, and still faced -with a dark freestone rock; and the country back of them broken into -open waving plains. Pine is the only growth of importance; but among -the smaller plants were distinguished the purple, yellow, and black -currants, which are now ripe, and of an excellent flavour. About eleven -o’clock a smoke was descried to the S.S.E. towards the termination of -the Rocky mountains, intended most probably, as a signal by the Crow -Indians, who have mistaken us for their enemies, or as friends to trade -with them. They could not however stop to ascertain the truth of this -conjecture, but rode on, and after passing another old Indian fort, -similar to that seen yesterday, halted for the night on a small island, -twenty-six miles from their camp of last evening. One of the hunters in -attempting to mount his horse, after shooting a deer, fell on a small -piece of timber, which ran nearly two inches into the muscular part of -his thigh. The wound was very painful; and were it not for their great -anxiety to reach the United States this season, the party would have -remained till he was cured: but the time was too precious to wait. The -gentlest and strongest horse was therefore selected, and a sort of -litter formed in such a manner as to enable the sick man to lie nearly -at full length. They then proceeded gently and at the distance of two -miles passed a river entering from the southeast side, about forty -yards wide, and called by the Indians Itchkeppearja, or Rose river, -a name which it deserves, as well from its beauty as from the roses -which we saw budding on its borders. Soon after they passed another -Indian fort on an island, and after making nine miles, halted to let -the horses graze, and sent out a hunter to look for timber to make a -canoe, and procure, if possible, some wild ginger to make a poultice -for Gibson’s thigh, which was now exceedingly painful, in consequence -of his constrained position. He returned, however, without being able -to find either; but brought back two bucks, and had had a contest with -two white bears who had chased him; but being on horseback he escaped, -after wounding both of them. There are great quantities of currants in -the plains, but almost every blade of grass for many miles have been -destroyed by immense swarms of grasshoppers, who appear to be ascending -the river. After taking some refreshment they proceeded, and found that -the hills became lower on both sides; those on the right overhanging -the river in cliffs of a darkish yellow earth, and the bottoms -widening to several miles in extent. The timber too, although chiefly -cottonwood, is coming large. - -They had not gone far when Gibson’s wound became so violently painful -that he could no longer remain on horseback. He was therefore left -with two men under the shade of a tree, while captain Clarke went on -to seek for timber. At the distance of eighteen miles from his camp -of last night he halted near a thick grove of trees, some of which -were large enough for small canoes, and then searched all the adjacent -country till evening, when Gibson was brought on to the camp. The -game of to-day consisted of six deer, seven elk, and an antelope. The -smoke which had been seen on the 17th, was again distinguished this -afternoon, and one of the party reported that he had observed an Indian -on the highlands on the opposite side of the river. The next morning at -daylight, - -Sunday, 20, two good judges of timber were sent down the river in quest -of lumber, but returned without being able to find any trees larger -than those near the camp, nor could they procure any for axe-handles -except choke-cherry. Captain Clarke determined therefore to make two -canoes, which being lashed together, might be sufficient to convey the -party down the river, while a few men might lead the horses to the -Mandan nation. Three axes were now sharpened with a file, and some of -the men proceeded to cut down two of the largest trees, on which they -worked till night. The rest of the party were occupied in dressing -skins for clothes, or in hunting, in which they were so fortunate as -to procure a deer, two buffaloe and an elk. The horses being much -fatigued, they were turned out to rest for a few days; but in the -morning, - -Monday, 21, twenty-four of them were missing. Three hunters were -sent in different directions to look for them; but all returned -unsuccessful, and it now seemed probable that the Indians who had made -the smoke a few days since, had stolen the horses. In the meantime the -men worked so diligently on the canoes that one of them was nearly -completed. Late in the evening, a very black cloud accompanied with -thunder and lightning rose from the southeast, and rendered the weather -extremely warm and disagreeable. The wind too was very high, but -shifted towards morning, - -Tuesday, 22, to the northeast, and became moderately cool. Three men -were now despatched in quest of the horses, but they came back without -being able to discover even a track, the plains being so hard and -dry that the foot makes no impression. This confirms the suspicion -of their being stolen by the Indians, who would probably take them -across the plains, to avoid being pursued by their traces; besides, -the improbability of their voluntarily leaving rushes and grass of the -river bottoms to go on the plains, where they could find nothing but a -short dry grass. Four men were again sent out with orders to encircle -the camp for a great distance round, but they too returned with no -better success than those who had preceded them. The search was resumed -in the morning, - -Wednesday, 23, and a piece of a robe, and a moccasin, were discovered -not far from the camp. The moccasin was worn out in the sole, and yet -wet, and had every appearance of having been left but a few hours -before. This sign was conclusive that the Indians had taken our horses, -and were still prowling about for the remainder, who fortunately -escaped last night, by being in a small prairie, surrounded by thick -timber. At length Labiche, who is one of the best trackers, returned -from a very wide circuit, and informed captain Clarke that he had -traced the tracks of the horses, which were bending their course rather -down the river towards the open plains, and from the track, going -very rapidly. All hopes of recovering them were now abandoned. The -Indians are not the only plunderers who surround the camp, for last -night the wolves or dogs stole the greater part of the dried meat from -the scaffold. The wolves, which constantly attend the buffaloe, are -here in great numbers, for this seems to be the commencement of the -buffaloe country. Besides them, are seen antelopes, pidgeons, doves, -hawks, ravens, crows, larks, sparrows, eagles, bank-martins, &c. &c. -great numbers of geese too, which raise their young on this river, have -passed the camp. The country itself consists of beautiful level plains, -but the soil is thin and stony, and both plains and low grounds are -covered with great quantities of prickly pear. - -At noon the two canoes were finished. They are twenty-eight feet long, -sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen to twenty-four inches -wide, and being lashed together, every thing was prepared for setting -out to-morrow; Gibson having now recovered. Serjeant Pryor was now -directed with Shannon and Windsor, to take our horses to the Mandans, -and if he found that Mr. Henry was on the Assiniboin river, to go -thither and deliver him a letter, the object of which was to prevail -on the most distinguished chiefs of the Sioux to accompany him to -Washington. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - Captain Clarke proceeds with his party down the - river--description of an Indian lodge--serjeant Pryor arrives - with the horses left by the party when they embarked in - their canoes--his difficulty in bringing them on--remarkable - rock discovered by captain Clarke, and the beauty of the - prospect from the summit--they continue their route down the - river, of which a particular description is given, as well - as of the surrounding country--Yellowstone and Bighorn river - compared--great quantities of game found on the banks of the - rivers--immense herds of buffaloe--fierceness of the white - bear--encamp at the junction of the Yellowstone and Missouri--a - general outline given of Yellowstone river, comprehending - the shoals--its entrance recommended for the formation of a - trading establishment--the sufferings of the party from the - musquetoes--serjeant Pryor, who with a detachment of the party - was to have brought on the horses, arrives, and reports that - they were all stolen by the Indians--deprived of these animals, - they form for themselves Indian canoes of the skins of beasts, - and of curious structure, with which they descend the river - over the most difficult shoals and dangerous rapids--meet with - two white men unexpectedly, from whom they procure intelligence - of the Indians formerly visited by the party. - - -Thursday, July 24. The canoes were loaded, and serjeant Pryor and -his party set out with orders to proceed down to the entrance of the -Bighorn river, which was supposed to be at no great distance, and -where they should be taken in the boats across the Yellowstone. At -eight o’clock captain Clarke embarked in the little flotilla, and -proceeded on very steadily down the river, which continues to be -about two hundred yards wide, and contains a number of islands, some -of which are supplied with a small growth of timber. At the distance -of a mile from the camp, the river passes under a high bluff for -about twenty-three miles, when the bottoms widen on both sides. At -the distance of twenty-nine miles, a river falls in from the south. -This was the river supposed to be the Bighorn; but afterwards, when -the Bighorn was found, the name of Clarke’s fork was given to this -stream. It is a bold river, one hundred and fifty yards wide at the -entrance, but a short distance above, is contracted to a hundred -yards. The water is of a light muddy colour, and much colder than that -of the Yellowstone, and its general course is south and east of the -Rocky mountains. There is a small island situated immediately at the -entrance; and this or the adjoining main land would form a very good -position for a fort. The country most frequented by the beaver begins -here, and that which lies between this river and the Yellowstone is, -perhaps, the best district for the hunters of that animal. About a -mile before reaching this river, there is a ripple in the Yellowstone, -on passing which the canoes took in some water. The party therefore -landed to bail the boats, and then proceeded six miles further to a -large island, where they halted for the purpose of waiting for serjeant -Pryor. It is a beautiful spot with a rich soil, covered with wild -rye, and a species of grass like the blue-grass, and some of another -kind, which the Indians wear in plaits round the neck, on account of -a strong scent resembling that of the vanilla. There is also a thin -growth of cottonwood scattered over the island. In the centre is a -large Indian lodge which seems to have been built during the last -summer. It is in the form of a cone, sixty feet in diameter at the -base, composed of twenty poles, each forty-five feet long, and two and -a half in circumference, and the whole structure covered with bushes. -The interior was curiously ornamented. On the tops of the poles were -feathers of eagles, and circular pieces of wood, with sticks across -them in the form of a girdle: from the centre was suspended a stuffed -buffaloe skin: on the side fronting the door was hung a cedar bush: on -one side of the lodge a buffaloe’s head; on the other several pieces -of wood stuck in the ground. From its whole appearance, it was more -like a lodge for holding councils, than an ordinary dwelling house. -Serjeant Pryor not having yet arrived, they went on about fifteen and -a half miles further to a small creek on the right, to which they gave -the name of Horse creek, and just below it overtook serjeant Pryor -with the horses. He had found it almost impossible, with two men, to -drive on the remaining horses, for as soon as they discovered a herd of -buffaloe the loose horses, having been trained by the Indians to hunt, -immediately set off in pursuit of them, and surrounded the buffaloe -herd with almost as much skill as their riders could have done. At last -he was obliged to send one horseman forward, and drive all the buffaloe -from the route. The horses were here driven across, and sergeant Pryor -again proceeded with an additional man to his party. The river is now -much more deep and navigable, and the current more regular than above -Clarke’s fork, and although much divided by well-wooded islands, when -collected, the stream is between two and three hundred feet in width. -Along its banks are some beaver, and an immense number of deer, elk, -and buffaloe. Towards night they passed a creek from the southeast, -thirty-five yards wide, which they called Pryor’s creek; half a mile -below which they encamped, after making sixty-nine and a half miles -during the day. At sunrise the next morning, - -Friday, 25, they resumed their voyage, and passed a number of islands -and small streams, and occasionally high bluffs, composed of a yellow -gritty stone. A storm of rain and high southwest wind soon overtook -them, and obliged them to land and form a sort of log hut, covered -with deer skins. As soon as it ceased they proceeded, and about four -o’clock, after having made forty-nine miles, captain Clarke landed -to examine a very remarkable rock situated in an extensive bottom -on the right, about two hundred and fifty paces from the shore. It -is nearly four hundred paces in circumference, two hundred feet -high, and accessible only from the northeast, the other sides being -a perpendicular cliff of a light coloured gritty rock. The soil of -the top is five or six feet deep, of a good quality, and covered -with short grass. The Indians have carved the figures of animals and -other objects on the sides of the rock, and on the top are raised two -piles of stones. From this height the eye ranged over a large extent -of variegated country:--On the southwest the Rocky mountains covered -with snow; a low mountain, about forty miles distant, bearing south -15° east, and in a direction north 55° west; and at the distance of -thirty-five miles, the southern extremity of what are called the -Littlewolf mountains. The low grounds of the river extend nearly six -miles to the southward, when they rise into plains reaching to the -mountains, and watered with a large creek, while at some distance below -a range of highland, covered with pine, stretches on both sides of the -river, in a direction north and south. The north side of the river, -for some distance, is surrounded by jutting romantic cliffs; these are -succeeded by rugged hills, beyond which the plains are again open and -extensive; and the whole country is enlivened by herds of buffaloe, -elk and wolves. After enjoying the prospect from this rock, to which -captain Clarke gave the name of Pompey’s pillar, he descended, and -continued his course. At the distance of six or seven miles, he stopped -to get two bighorns, which were shot from the boat; and while on shore, -saw in the face of the cliff on the left, about twenty feet above the -water, the fragment of a rib of a fish, three feet long, and nearly -three inches round, incrusted in the rock itself, and though neither -decayed nor petrified is very rotten. After making fifty-eight miles -they reached the entrance of a stream on the right, about twenty-two -yards wide, and which discharges a great quantity of muddy water. Here -they encamped rather earlier than usual, on account of a heavy squall, -accompanied with some rain. Early next morning, - -Saturday, 26, they proceeded. The river is now much divided by stony -islands and bars; but the current, though swift, is regular, and there -are many very handsome islands covered with cottonwood. On the left -shore the bottoms are very extensive; the right bank is formed of -high cliffs of a whitish gritty stone; and beyond these, the country -on both sides is diversified with waving plains, covered with pine. At -the distance of ten miles is a large creek on the right, about forty -yards in width, but containing very little water; and in the course of -the day, two smaller streams on the left, and a fourth on the right. -At length, after coming sixty-two miles, they landed at the entrance -of the Bighorn river; but finding the point between the two composed -of soft mud and sand, and liable to be overflowed, they ascended the -Bighorn for half a mile, then crossed and formed a camp on its lower -side. Captain Clarke then walked up the river. At the distance of seven -miles, a creek, twenty yards wide, which from the colour of the water -he called Muddy creek, falls in on the northeast, and a few miles -further, the river bends to the east of south. The bottoms of the river -are extensive, and supplied chiefly with cottonwood trees, variegated -with great quantities of rosebushes. The current is regular and rapid; -and like the Missouri, constantly changes so as to wash away the banks -on one side, leaving sandbars on the other. Its bed contains much less -of the large gravel than that of the Yellowstone, and its water is more -muddy, and of a brownish colour, while the Yellowstone has a lighter -tint. At the junction, the two rivers are nearly equal in breadth, -extending from two hundred to two hundred and twenty yards, but the -Yellowstone contains much more water, being ten or twelve feet deep, -while the depth of the Bighorn varies from five to seven feet. This -is the river which had been described by the Indians as rising in the -Rocky mountains, near the Yellowstone, and the sources of the river -Platte, and then finds its way through the Cote Noir, and the eastern -range of the Rocky mountains. In its long course it receives two larger -rivers, one from the north and the other from the south, and being -unobstructed by falls, is navigable in canoes for a great distance, -through a fine rich open country, supplied with a great quantity of -timber, and inhabited by beaver, and by numerous species of animals, -among which are those from which it derives the name of Bighorn. There -are no permanent settlements near it; but the whole country which it -waters, is occasionally visited by roving bands of hunters from the -Crow tribe, the Paunch, a band of Crows, and the Castahana, a small -band of Snake Indians. - -Sunday, 27. They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn, -took a last look at the Rocky mountains, which had been constantly in -view from the first of May. The river now widens to the extent of from -four to six hundred yards; is much divided by islands and sandbars; its -banks generally low and falling in, and resembles the Missouri in many -particulars; but its islands are more numerous, it waters less muddy, -and the current more rapid. The water too is of a yellowish-white, -and the round stones, which form the bars above the Bighorn, have -given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs under cliffs -of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from seventy to an -hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive plains. On the right -side of the river are low extensive bottoms, bordered with cottonwood, -various species of willow, rosebushes, grape-vines, the redberry or -buffaloe-grease bushes, and a species of sumach; to these succeed high -grounds, supplied with pine, and still further on are level plains. -Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffaloe, which, as -this is the running season, keep a continued bellowing. Large herds -of elk also are lying in every point, and are so gentle that they -may be approached within twenty paces without being alarmed. Several -beaver were seen in the course of the day; indeed, there is a greater -appearance of those animals than there was above the Bighorn. Deer, -however, are by no means abundant, and the antelopes, as well as the -bighorns, are scarce. - -Fifteen miles from the Bighorn river they passed a large dry creek -on the left, to which they gave the name of Elk creek, and halted -for breakfast about three miles further, at the entrance of Windsor’s -river, a stream from the left, which though fifty yards wide, contains -scarcely any water. Forty-eight miles from the Bighorn is a large bed -of a stream sixty yards wide, but with very little water. They called -it Labiche’s river. Several other smaller streams, or rather beds of -creeks, were passed in the course of the day, and after coming eighty -and a half miles, they encamped on a large island. At daylight the next -morning, - -Monday, 28, they proceeded down the smooth gentle current, passing by -a number of islands and several creeks, which are now dry. These are, -indeed, more like torrents, and like the dry brooks of the Missouri, -merely serve to carry off the vast quantities of water which fall in -the plains, and bring them also a great deal of mud, which contributes -to the muddiness of the Yellowstone. The most distinguished of these -are at the distance of six miles, a creek of eighty yards in width, -from the northwest, and called by the Indians, Littlewolf river: -twenty-nine miles lower another on the left, seventy yards in width, -which they call Table creek, from several mounds in the plains to the -northwest, the tops of which resemble a table. Four miles further a -stream of more importance enters behind an island from the south. It is -about one hundred yards in width, with a bold current of muddy water, -and is probably the river called by the Indians the Little Bighorn; -and another stream on the right, twenty-five yards wide, the Indian -name of which is Mashaskap. Nearly opposite to this creek they encamped -after making seventy-three miles. The river during part of the route is -confined by cliffs, which on the right are of a soft, yellowish, gritty -rock, while those on the left are harder, and of a lighter colour. -In some of these cliffs were several stratas of coal of different -thickness and heights above the water; but like that of the Missouri, -is of an inferior quality. - -Tuesday, 29. During the night there was a storm of thunder and -lightning, with some rain, a high northeast wind, which continued -during the morning, and prevented the party from making more than -forty-one miles. The country resembles that passed yesterday; the dry -beds of rivers continue, and large quantities of coal are seen in the -sides of the cliffs. The river itself is now between five hundred yards -and half a mile in width, and has more sand and bars of gravel than -above. The beaver are in great numbers; and in the course of the day -some catfish and a soft-shelled turtle were procured. In the evening -they encamped on the left, opposite to the entrance of a stream, called -by the Indians Lazeka, or Tongue river. This stream rises in the Cote -Noir, and is formed of two branches, one having its sources with the -heads of the Chayenne, the other with one of the branches of the -Bighorn. It has a very wide bed, and a channel of water a hundred and -fifty yards wide, but the water is of a light brown colour, very muddy, -and nearly milk-warm. It is shallow, and its rapid current throws out -great quantities of mud and some coarse gravel. Near the mouth is a -large proportion of timber, but the warmth of the water would seem to -indicate that the country through which it passed was open and without -shade. - -Wednesday, 30. They set out at an early hour, and after passing, at the -distance of twelve miles, the bed of a river one hundred yards wide, -but nearly dry at present, reached two miles below it a succession -of bad shoals, interspersed with a hard, dark brown, gritty rock, -extending for six miles, the last of which stretches nearly across -the river, and has a descent of about three feet. At this place they -were obliged to let the canoes down with the hand, for fear of their -splitting on a concealed rock; though when the shoals are known a large -canoe could with safety pass through the worst of them. This is the -most difficult part of the whole Yellowstone river, and was called the -Buffaloe shoal, from the circumstance of one of those animals being -found in them. The neighbouring cliffs on the right are about one -hundred feet high; on the left the country is low, but gradually rises, -and at some distance from the shore present the first appearance of -burnt hills which have been seen on the Yellowstone. Below the Buffaloe -shoals the river is contracted to the width of three or four hundred -yards, the islands less numerous, and a few scattering trees only are -seen either on its banks or on the highlands: twenty miles from those -shoals is a rapid, caused by a number of rocks strewed over the river; -but though the waves are high, there is a very good channel on the -left, which renders the passage secure. There was a bear standing on -one of these rocks, which occasioned the name of the Bear rapid. As -they were descending this rapid a violent storm from the northwest -obliged them to take refuge in an old Indian lodge near the mouth of -a river on the left, which has lately been very high, has widened to -the distance of a quarter of a mile, but though its present channel -is eighty-eight yards wide, there is not more water in it than would -easily pass through a hole of an inch in diameter. It was called York’s -dry river. As soon as the rain and wind had abated, they resumed their -journey, and at seven miles encamped under a spreading cottonwood tree -on the left side, after making forty-eight miles. A mile and a half -above on the opposite side is a river containing one hundred yards -width of water, though the bed itself is much wider. The water is very -muddy, and like its banks of a dark brown colour. Its current throws -out great quantities of red stones; and this circumstance, with the -appearance of the distant hills, induced captain Clarke to call it the -Redstone, which he afterwards found to be the meaning of its Indian -name, Wahasah. - -Saturday, 31. During the whole night the buffaloe were prowling about -the camp, and excited much alarm, lest in crossing the river they -should tread on the boats and split them to pieces. They set out as -usual, and at the distance of two miles passed a rapid of no great -danger, which they called Wolf rapid, from seeing a wolf in them. -At this place commences a range of highlands. These highlands have -no timber, and are composed of earth of different colours, without -much rock, but supplied throughout with great quantities of coal, or -carbonated wood. After passing these hills the country again opens -into extensive plains, like those passed yesterday, and the river is -diversified with islands, and partially supplied with water by a great -number of wide, but nearly dry brooks. Thus eighteen miles below the -camp is a shallow, muddy stream on the left, one hundred yards wide, -and supposed to be that known among the Indians by the name of Saasha, -or Littlewolf river: five miles below on the right side is another -river, forty yards wide, and four feet in depth, which, from the steep -coal banks on each side, they called Oaktaroup, or Coal river; and at -eighteen miles further a third stream of sixty yards in width, to which -they gave the name of Gibson’s river. Having made sixty-six miles, -they halted for the night, and just as they landed, saw the largest -white bear that any of the party had ever before seen, devouring a -dead buffaloe on a sandbar. They fired two balls into him, and he -then swam to the main land and walked along the shore. Captain Clarke -pursued him, and lodged two more balls in his body; but though he bled -profusely he made his escape, as night prevented them from following -him. The next day, - -Sunday, August 1, a high wind from ahead made the water rough, and -retarded their progress, and as it rained during the whole day, their -situation in the open boats was very disagreeable. The country bears in -every respect the same appearance as that of yesterday, though there is -some ash timber in the bottom, and low pine and cedar on the sides of -the hills. The current of the river is less rapid, has more soft mud, -and is more obstructed by sandbars, and the rain has given an unusual -quantity of water to the brooks. The buffaloe now appear in vast -numbers. A herd happened to be on their way across the river. Such was -the multitude of these animals, that although the river, including an -island, over which they passed was a mile in length, the herd stretched -as thick as they could swim, completely from one side to the other, and -the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They consoled themselves for -the delay by killing four of the herd, and then proceeded till at the -distance of forty-five miles on an island, below which two other herds -of buffaloe, as numerous as the first, soon after crossed the river. - -Monday, 2. The river is now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more -divided by islands and bars of sand and mud than hitherto: the low -grounds too are more extensive, and contain a greater quantity of -cottonwood, ash, and willow trees. On the northwest is a low, level -plain; on the southeast some rugged hills, on which we saw, without -being able to approach, some of the bighorns. The buffaloe and elk, -as well as the pursuers of both, the wolves, are in great numbers. On -each side of the river are several dry brooks; but the only stream of -any size is that they called Ibex river, on the right, about thirty -yards wide, and sixteen miles from the camp. The bear which gave so -much trouble on the head of the Missouri, are equally fierce in this -quarter. This morning one of them, which was on a sandbar as the -boat passed, raised himself on his hind feet, and after looking at -the party, plunged in and swarm towards them. He was received with -three balls in the body; he then turned round and made for the shore. -Towards evening another entered the water to swim across. Captain -Clarke ordered the boat towards the shore, and just as the bear landed, -shot the animal in the head. It proved to be the largest female they -had ever seen, and so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. The -boats escaped with difficulty between two herds of buffaloe, which -were crossing the river, and would probably have again detained the -party. Among the elk of this neighbourhood are an unusual number of -males, while higher up the river the numerous herds consist of females -chiefly. After making eighty-four miles, they encamped among some ash -and elm trees on the right. They, however, rather passed the night than -slept there, for the musquitoes were so troublesome, that scarcely any -of the party could close their eyes during the greater part of the -time. They therefore set out early in the morning, - -Tuesday, 3, to avoid the persecution of those insects. At the distance -of two miles they passed Fields’s creek, a stream thirty-five yards -wide, which enters on the right, immediately above a high bluff, which -is rapidly sinking into the river. Here captain Clarke went ashore in -pursuit of some bighorns, but the musquitoes were so numerous, that -he was unable to shoot with certainty. He therefore returned to the -canoes; and soon after observing a ram of the same animals, sent one of -the hunters, who shot it, and it was preserved entire as a specimen. -About two o’clock they reached, eight miles below Fields’s creek, the -junction of the Yellowstone with the Missouri, and formed a camp on the -point where they had encamped on the 26th of April, 1805. The canoes -were now unloaded, and the baggage exposed to dry, as many of the -articles were wet, and some of them spoiled. - -The Rochejaune, or Yellowstone river, according to Indian information, -has its remote sources in the Rocky mountains, near the peaks of -the Rio del Norde, on the confines of New Mexico; to which country -there is a good road during the whole distance along the banks of the -Yellowstone. Its western waters are probably connected with those -of Lewis’s river, while the eastern branches approach the heads of -Clarke’s river, the Bighorn, and the Platte; so that it waters the -middle portion of the Rocky mountains for several hundred miles from -northwest to southeast. During its whole course from the point at -which captain Clarke reached it to the Missouri, a distance which he -computed at eight hundred and thirty-seven miles, this river is large -and navigable for periogues, and even batteaux, there being none of -the moving sandbars which impede the navigation of the Missouri, and -only a single ledge of rocks, which, however, is not difficult to pass. -Even its tributary waters, the Bighorn, Clarke’s fork, and Tongue -river, may be ascended in boats for a considerable distance. The banks -of the river are low, but bold, and no where subject to be overflowed, -except for a short distance below the mountains. The predominating -colour of the river is a yellowish-brown; that of the Missouri, which -possesses more mud, is of a deep drab colour; the bed of the former -being chiefly composed of loose pebble, which, however, diminish in -size in descending the river, till after passing the Lazeka, the pebble -ceases as the river widens, and the mud and sand continue to form the -greater part of the bottom. Over these the water flows with a velocity -constantly and almost equally decreasing in proportion to its distance -from the mountains. From the mountains to Clarke’s fork, the current -may be estimated at four and a half miles per hour; thence as low as -the Bighorn, at three and a half miles; between that and the Lazeka -at three miles; and from that river to the Wolf rapid, at two and -three quarter miles; from which to its entrance, the general rapidity -is two miles per hour. The appearance and character of the country -present nearly similar varieties of fertile, rich, open lands. Above -Clarke’s fork, it consists of high waving plains bordered by stony -hills, partially supplied with pine; the middle portion, as low as the -Buffaloe shoals, contains less timber, and the number diminishes still -lower, where the river widens, and the country spreads itself into -extensive plains. Like all the branches of the Missouri which penetrate -the Rocky mountains, the Yellowstone and its streams, within that -district of country beyond Clarke’s fork, abound in beaver and otter; a -circumstance which strongly recommends the entrance of the latter river -as a judicious position for the purposes of trade. To an establishment -at that place, the Shoshonees, both within and westward of the Rocky -mountains, would willingly resort, as they would be farther from the -reach of the Blackfoot Indians, and the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, -than they could be in trading with any factories on the Missouri. The -same motive of personal safety, would most probably induce many of the -tribes on the Columbia and Lewis’s river to prefer this place to the -entrance of Maria’s river, at least for some years; and as the Crow -and Paunch Indians, the Castahanahs, and the Indians residing south of -Clarke’s fork, would also be induced to visit it, the mouth of that -river might be considered as one of the most important establishments -for the western fur trade. This too may be the more easily effected, as -the adjacent country possesses a sufficiency of timber for the purpose, -an advantage which is not found on any spot between Clarke’s fork and -the Rocky mountains. - -Wednesday, 4. The camp became absolutely uninhabitable, in consequence -of the multitude of musquetoes; the men could not work in preparing -skins for clothing, nor hunt in the timbered low grounds; in short, -there was no mode of escape, except by going on the sandbars in the -river; where, if the wind should blow, the insects do not venture; but -when there is no wind, and particularly at night, when the men have -no covering except their worn-out blankets, the pain they suffer is -scarcely to be endured. There was also a want of meat, for the buffaloe -were not to be found; and though the elk are very abundant, yet their -fat and flesh is more difficult to dry in the sun, and is also much -more easily spoiled than the meat or fat of either deer or buffaloe. -Captain Clarke therefore determined to go on to some spot which should -be free from musquetoes, and furnish more game. After having written a -note to captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on -a pole, at the confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at -five in the afternoon, and proceeded down the river to the second point -and encamped on a sandbar; but here the musquetoes seemed to be even -more numerous than above. The face of the Indian child is considerably -puffed up and swollen with the bites of these animals, nor could the -men procure scarcely any sleep during the night, and they continued to -harrass them the next morning, - -Thursday 5, as they proceeded. On one occasion captain Clarke went on -shore and ascended a hill after one of the bighorns; but the musquetoes -were in such multitudes that he could not keep them from the barrel -of his rifle long enough to take aim. About ten o’clock, however, a -light breeze sprung up from the northwest, and dispersed them in some -degree. Captain Clarke then landed on a sandbar, intending to wait for -captain Lewis, and went out to hunt. But not finding any buffaloe, -he again proceeded in the afternoon, and having killed a large white -bear, encamped under a high bluff exposed to a light breeze from the -southwest, which blew away the musquetoes. About eleven o’clock, -however, the wind became very high and a storm of rain came on, which -lasted for two hours, accompanied with sharp lightning and loud peals -of thunder. The party therefore rose, - -Friday, 6, very wet, and proceeded to a sandbar below the entrance of -White-earth river. Just above this place, the Indians had, apparently -within seven or eight days past, been digging a root which they employ -in making a kind of soup. Having fixed their tents, the men were -employed in dressing skins and hunting. They shot a number of deer; but -only two of them were fat, owing probably to the great quantities of -musquetoes who annoy them whilst feeding. The next day, - -Saturday, 7, after some severe rain, they proceeded at eleven o’clock, -through intervals of rain and high wind till six in the evening, when -they encamped on a sandbar. Here they had a very violent wind, for -two hours, which left the air clear and cold, so that the musquetoes -completely disappeared. On the following morning, - -Sunday, 8, serjeant Pryor, accompanied by Shannon, Hall, and Windsor, -arrived, but without the horses. They reported that on the second -day after they left captain Clarke, they halted to let the horses -graze near the bed of a large creek, which contained no running -water; but soon after a shower of rain fell, and the creek swelled -so suddenly, that several horses which had struggled across the dry -bed of the creek, were obliged to swim back. They now determined to -form their camp; but the next morning were astonished at not being -able to find a single one of their horses. They immediately examined -the neighbourhood, and soon finding the tracks of the Indians who had -stolen the horses, pursued them for five miles, where the fugitives -divided into two parties. They now followed the largest party five -miles further, till they lost all hopes of overtaking the Indians, and -returned to the camp; and packing the baggage on their backs, pursued -a northeast course towards the Yellowstone. On the following night a -wolf bit serjeant Pryor through the hand as he lay asleep, and made an -attempt to seize Windsor, when Shannon discovered and shot him. They -passed over a broken open country, and having reached the Yellowstone -near Pompey’s pillar, they determined to descend the river, and for -this purpose made two skin canoes, such as they had seen among the -Mandans and Ricaras. They are made in the following manner:--Two sticks -of an inch and a quarter in diameter are tied together so as to form -a round hoop, which serves for the brim, while a second hoop, for the -bottom of the boat, is made in the same way, and both secured by sticks -of the same size from the sides of the hoops, fastened by thongs at -the edges of the hoops and at the interstices of the sticks: over this -frame the skin is drawn closely and tied with thongs, so as to form a -perfect basin, seven feet and three inches in diameter, sixteen inches -deep, and with sixteen ribs or cross-sticks, and capable of carrying -six or eight men with their loads. Being unacquainted with the river, -they thought it most prudent to divide their guns and ammunition, so -that in case of accident all might not be lost, and therefore built two -canoes. In these frail vessels they embarked, and were surprised at the -perfect security in which they passed through the most difficult shoals -and rapids of the river, without ever taking in water, even during the -highest winds. - -In passing the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri, he took -down the note from the pole, supposing that captain Lewis had passed; -and now learning where the party was, pressed on in the skin canoes -to join them. The day was spent in hunting, so as to procure a number -of skins to trade with the Mandans; for having now neither horses nor -merchandise, our only resort in order to obtain corn and beans, is a -stock of skins, which those Indians very much admire. - -Monday, 9. A heavy dew fell this morning. Captain Clarke now proceeded -slowly down the river, hunting through the low grounds in the -neighbourhood after the deer and elk, till late in the afternoon he -encamped on the southeast side. Here they remained during the next day, - -Tuesday, 10, attempting to dry the meat, while the hunters were all -abroad; but they could obtain nothing except an antelope and one -black-tailed deer; those animals being very scarce on this part of the -river. In the low grounds of the river captain Clarke found to-day -a species of cherry which he had never seen before, and which seems -peculiar to this small district of country, though even there it is not -very abundant. - -The men also dug up quantities of a large and very insipid root, called -by the Indians hankee, and by the engagees, the white apple. It is -used by them in a dry and pounded state, so as to mix with their soup; -but our men boiled it and eat it with meat. In descending the river -yesterday, the squaw brought in a large well-flavoured gooseberry, of a -rich crimson colour; and a deep purple berry of a species of currant, -common on this river as low as the Mandans, and called by the engagees, -the Indian currant. - -Wednesday, 11. The next morning captain Clarke set out early, and -landed on a sandbar about ten o’clock for the purpose of taking -breakfast and drying the meat. At noon they proceeded on about two -miles, when they observed a canoe near the shore. They immediately -landed, and were equally surprised and pleased at discovering two men -by the names of Dickson and Hancock, who had come from the Illinois -on a hunting excursion up the Yellowstone. They had left the Illinois -in the summer of 1804, and had spent the last winter with the Tetons, -in company with a Mr. Ceautoin, who had come there as a trader, but -whom they had robbed, or rather they had taken all his merchandise and -given him a few robes in exchange. These men had met the boat which -we had despatched from fort Mandan, on board of which they were told -there was a Ricara chief on his way to Washington; and also another -party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. Durion on a visit of the same -kind. We were sorry to learn that the Mandans and Minnetarees were at -war with the Ricaras, and had killed two of them. The Assiniboins too, -are at war with the Mandans. They have, in consequence, prohibited the -Northwestern company from trading to the Missouri, and even killed two -of their traders near the Mouse river, and are now lying in wait for -Mr. M’Kenzie of the Northwestern company, who had been for a long time -among the Minnetarees. These appearances are rather unfavourable to the -project of carrying some of the chiefs to the United States; but we -still hope, that by effecting a peace between the Mandans, Minnetarees, -and Ricaras, the views of our government may be accomplished. - -After leaving these trappers, captain Clarke went on and encamped -nearly opposite the entrance of Goatpen creek, where the party were -again assailed by their old enemies, the musquetoes. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - The party, while descending the river in their skin canoes, - are overtaken by the detachment under captain Lewis, and - the whole party, now once more happily united, descend the - Missouri together--they once more revisit the Minnetaree - Indians, and hold a council with that nation, as well as the - Mahahas--captain Clarke endeavours to persuade their chiefs - to accompany him to the United States, which invitation they - decline, on account of their fears of the Sioux in their - passage down the river--Colter, one of the party, requests and - obtains liberty to remain amongst the Indians, for the purpose - of hunting beaver--friendly deportment of the Mandans--council - held by captain Clarke with the chiefs of the different - villages--the chief named the Bigwhite, with his wife and son, - agree to accompany the party to the United States, who takes an - affecting farewell of his nation--Chaboneau with his wife and - child, decline visiting the United States, and are left amongst - the Indians--the party at length proceed on their journey, - and find that the course of the Missouri is in some places - changed since their passage up that river--they arrive amongst - the Ricaras--character of the Chayennes: their dress, habits, - &c.--captain Clarke offers to the chief of this nation a medal, - which he at first refuses, believing it to be medicine, but - which he is afterwards prevailed on to accept--the Ricaras - refuse to permit one of their party to accompany captain - Clarke to the United States until the return of their chief, - who had formerly gone--the party proceed rapidly down the - river--prepare to defend themselves against the Tetons, but - receive no injury from them--incredible numbers of buffaloe - seen near White river--they meet at last with the Tetons, and - refuse their invitations to land--intrepidity of captain Clarke. - - -Thursday, August 12. The party continued slowly to descend the river. -One of the skin canoes was by accident pierced with a small hole, and -they halted for the purpose of mending it with a piece of elk skin, and -also to wait for two of the party who were behind. Whilst there, they -were overjoyed at seeing captain Lewis’s boats heave in sight about -noon. But this feeling was changed into alarm on seeing the boats reach -the shore without captain Lewis, who they then learnt had been wounded -the day before, and was then lying in the periogue. After giving to -his wound all the attention in our power, we remained here some time, -during which we were overtaken by our two men, accompanied by Dickson -and Hancock, who wished to go with us as far as the Mandans. The whole -party being now happily reunited, we left the two skin canoes, and all -embarked together, about 3 o’clock, in the boats. The wind was however -very high from the southwest, accompanied with rain, so that we did not -go far before we halted for the night on a sandbar. Captain Lewis’s -wound was now sore and somewhat painful. The next day, - -Friday, 13, they set out by sunrise, and having a very strong breeze -from the northwest, proceeded on rapidly. At eight o’clock we passed -the mouth of the Little Missouri. Some Indians were seen at a distance -below in a skin canoe, and were probably some of the Minnetarees on -their return from a hunting excursion, as we passed one of their camps -on the southwest side, where they had left a canoe. Two other Indians -were seen far off on one of the hills, and we shall therefore soon meet -with our old acquaintances, the Mandans. At sunset we arrived at the -entrance of Miry river, and encamped on the northeast side, having come -by the assistance of the wind and our oars, a distance of eighty six -miles. The air was cool, and the musquetoes ceased to trouble us as -they had done. - -Saturday, 14. We again set out at sunrise, and at length approached -the grand village of the Minnetarees, where the natives had collected -to view us as we passed. We fired the blunderbuss several times by way -of salute, and soon after landed at the bank near the village of the -Mahahas, or Shoe Indians, and were received by a crowd of people, who -came to welcome our return. Among these were the principal chief of the -Mahahas, and the chief of the Little Minnetaree village, both of whom -expressed great pleasure at seeing us again; but the latter wept most -bitterly. On inquiry, it appeared that his tears were excited because -the sight of us reminded him of his son, who had been lately killed by -the Blackfoot Indians. After remaining there a few minutes, we crossed -to the Mandan village of the Blackcat, where all the inhabitants -seemed very much pleased at seeing us. We immediately sent Chaboneau -with an invitation for the Minnetarees to visit us, and despatched -Drewyer to the lower village of the Mandans to bring Jesseaume as an -interpreter. Captain Clarke, in the meantime, walked up to the village -of the Blackcat, and smoked and eat with the chief. This village has -been rebuilt since our departure, and was now much smaller; a quarrel -having arisen among the Indians, in consequence of which a number of -families had removed to the opposite side of the river. On the arrival -of Jesseaume, captain Clarke addressed the chiefs. We spoke to them -now, he said, in the same language we had done before; and repeated his -invitation to accompany him to the United States, to hear in person the -councils of their great father, who can at all times protect those who -open their ears to his councils, and punish his enemies. The Blackcat -in reply, declared that he wished to visit the United States, and see -his great father, but was afraid of the Sioux, who had killed several -of the Mandans since our departure, and who were now on the river -below, and would intercept him if he attempted to go. Captain Clarke -endeavoured to quiet his apprehensions by assuring him that he would -not suffer the Sioux to injure one of our red children who should -accompany us, and that they should return loaded with presents, and -protected at the expense of the United States. The council was then -broken up, after which we crossed and formed our camp on the other side -of the river, where we should be sheltered from the rain. Soon after -the chief of the Mahahas informed us, that if we would send to his -village, we should have some corn. Three men were therefore despatched, -and soon after returned loaded with as much as they could carry; and -were soon followed by the chief and his wife, to whom we presented a -few needles and other articles fit for women. In a short time the -Borgne (the great chief of all the Minnetarees) came down, attended by -several other chiefs, to whom, after smoking a pipe, captain Clarke -now made a harangue, renewing his assurances of friendship and the -invitation to go with us to Washington. He was answered by the Borgne, -who began by declaring that he much desired to visit his great father, -but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who should -attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not -listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had -made peace with all the nations below, yet the Sioux had since killed -eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras -too had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed -two of the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always -had his ears open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with -the Chayennes and the Indians of the Rocky mountains. He concluded by -saying, that however disposed they were to visit the United States, the -fear of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us. The council -was then finished, and soon afterwards an invitation was received -from the Blackcat, who, on captain Clarke’s arrival at his village, -presented him with a dozen bushels of corn, which he said was a large -proportion of what his people owned; and after smoking a pipe, declared -that his people were too apprehensive of the Sioux to venture with us. -Captain Clarke then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. -He told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their great -father, and hear his good words and receive his gifts, and requested -them to fix on some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this -they made the same objections as before, till at length a young man -offered to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the character -of this man was known to be bad, and one of the party with captain -Clarke informed him that at the moment he had in his possession a -knife which he had stolen. Captain Clarke therefore told the chief of -this theft, and ordered the knife to be given up. This was done with a -poor apology for having it in his possession, and captain Clarke then -reproached the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear -so distinguished a person as their great father. They all hung down -their heads for some time, till the Blackcat apologized by saying, -that the danger was such that they were afraid of sending any of their -chiefs, as they considered his loss almost inevitable. Captain Clarke -remained some time with them, smoking and relating various particulars -of his journey, and then left them to visit the second chief of the -Mandans (or the Blackcrow) who had expressed some disposition to -accompany us. He seemed well inclined to the journey, but was unwilling -to decide till he had called a council of his people, which he intended -to do in the afternoon. On returning to the camp, he found the chief -of the Mahahas, and also the chief of the Little Minnetaree village, -who brought a present of corn on their mules, of which they possess -several, and which they procure from the Crow Indians, who either buy -or steal them on the frontiers of the Spanish settlements. A great -number of the Indians visited us for the purpose of renewing their -acquaintance, or of exchanging robes or other articles for the skins -brought by the men. - -In the evening we were applied to by one of our men, Colter, who was -desirous of joining the two trappers who had accompanied us, and -who now proposed an expedition up the river, in which they were to -find traps and give him a share of the profits. The offer was a very -advantageous one, and as he had always performed his duty, and his -services might be dispensed with, we agreed that he might go, provided -none of the rest would ask or expect a similar indulgence. To this -they cheerfully answered, that they wished Colter every success, and -would not apply for liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis. -We, therefore, supplied him, as did his comrades also, with powder and -lead, and a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and he -left us the next day. The example of this man shows how easily men -may be weaned from the habits of a civilized life to the ruder, but -scarcely less fascinating manners of the woods. This hunter has been -now absent for many years from the frontiers, and might naturally be -presumed to have some anxiety, or some curiosity at least to return -to his friends and his country: yet just at the moment when he is -approaching the frontiers, he is tempted by a hunting scheme, to give -up those delightful prospects, and go back without the least reluctance -to the solitude of the woods. - -In the evening Chaboneau, who had been mingling with the Indians, and -had learned what had taken place during our absence, informed us, that -as soon as we had left the Minnetarees, they sent out a war party -against the Shoshonees, whom they attacked and routed, though in the -engagement they lost two men, one of whom was the son of the chief of -the Little Minnetaree village. Another war party had gone against the -Racaras, two of whom they killed. A misunderstanding too had taken -place between the Mandans and Minnetarees, in consequence of a dispute -about a woman, which had nearly occasioned a war; but at length a pipe -was presented by the Minnetarees, and a reconciliation took place. - -Friday 16. The Mandans had offered to give us some corn, and on sending -this morning, we found a greater quantity collected for our use than -all our canoes would contain. We therefore thanked the chief and took -only six loads. At ten o’clock the chiefs of the different villages -came down to smoke with us. We therefore took this opportunity of -endeavouring to engage the Borgne in our interests by a present of the -swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as it cannot be discharged -from our largest periogue. It was now loaded, and the chiefs being -formed into a circle round it, captain Clarke addressed them with -great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention to -what had yesterday been declared by the Borgne, whom he believed -to be sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our -counsels, and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Littlecherry, -the old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long staid at home -and listened to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux -because their horses had been stolen, and their companions killed; and -that in an expedition against those people, they had met the Ricaras, -who were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in -future he said they would attend to our words and live at peace. The -Borgne added, that his ears too would always be open to the words -of his good father, and shut against bad counsel. Captain Clarke -then presented to the Borgne the swivel, which he had told him had -announced the words of his great father to all the nations we had seen, -and which, whenever it was fired, should recall those which we had -delivered to him. The gun was then discharged, and the Borgne had it -conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council was then adjourned. - -In the afternoon captain Clarke walked up to the village of the -Littlecrow, taking a flag, which he intended to present to him, -but was surprised on being told by him, that he had given over all -intention of accompanying us, and refused the flag. He found that this -was occasioned by a jealousy between him and the principal chief, -Bigwhite: on the interference, however, of Jesseaume, the two chiefs -were reconciled, and it was agreed that the Bigwhite himself should -accompany us with his wife and son. - -Saturday, 17. The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees came down to -bid us farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with -us. This circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, with his -wife and child, to remain here, as he could be no longer useful; and -notwithstanding our offers of taking him with us to the United States, -he said that he had there no acquaintance, and no chance of making a -livelihood, and preferred remaining among the Indians. This man has -been very serviceable to us, and his wife particularly useful among -the Shoshonees. Indeed, she has borne with a patience truly admirable, -the fatigues of so long a route, incumbered with the charge of an -infant, who is even now only nineteen months old. We therefore paid him -his wages, amounting to five hundred dollars and thirty-three cents, -including the price of a horse and a lodge purchased of him; and soon -afterwards dropped down to the village of the Bigwhite, attended on -shore by all the Indian chiefs who went to take leave of him. We found -him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, while the -women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with their -baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, and two -children; and then after distributing among his friends some powder and -ball, which we had given to him, and smoking a pipe with us, went with -us to the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of -the people wept aloud at the departure of the chief. As captain Clarke -was shaking hands with the principal chiefs of all the villages, they -requested that he would sit with them one moment longer. Being willing -to gratify them, he stopped and ordered a pipe, after smoking which, -they informed him that when they first saw us, they did not believe all -that we then told them; but having now seen that our words were all -true, they would carefully remember them, and follow our advice; that -he might tell their great father that the young men should remain at -home and not make war on any people except in defence of themselves. -They requested him to tell the Ricaras to come and visit them without -fear, as they meant that nation no harm, but were desirous of peace -with them. On the Sioux, however, they had no dependence, and must kill -them whenever they made war parties against their country. Captain -Clarke, in reply, informed them that we had never insisted on their not -defending themselves, but requested only that they would not strike -those whom we had taken by the hand; that we would apprise the Ricaras -of their friendly intentions, and that, although we had not seen those -of the Sioux with whom they were at war, we should relate their conduct -to their great father, who would take measures for producing a general -peace among all his red children. - -The Borgne now requested that we would take good care of this chief, -who would report whatever their great father should say; and the -council being then broken up, we took leave with a salute from a gun, -and then proceeded. On reaching fort Mandan, we found a few pickets -standing on the river side, but all the houses except one, had been -burnt by an accidental fire. At the distance of eighteen miles we -reached the old Ricara village, where we encamped on the southwest -side, the wind being too violent, and the waves too high to permit us -to go any further. The same cause prevented us from setting out before -eight o’clock the next day, - -Monday, 18. Soon after we embarked, an Indian came running down to -the beach, who appeared very anxious to speak to us. We went ashore, -and found it was the brother of the Bigwhite, who was encamped at no -great distance, and hearing of our departure, came to take leave of the -chief. The Bigwhite gave him a pair of leggings, and they separated -in a most affectionate manner; and we then continued though the wind -and waves were still high. The Indian chief seems quite satisfied -with his treatment, and during the whole of his time was employed in -pointing out the ancient monuments of the Mandans, or in relating their -traditions. At length, after making forty miles, we encamped on the -northeast side, opposite an old Mandan village, and below the mouth of -Chesshetah river. - -Tuesday, 19. The wind was so violent that we were not able to proceed -until four in the afternoon, during which time the hunters killed four -elk and twelve deer. We then went on for ten miles, and came to on a -sandbar. The rain and wind continued through the night, and during the -whole of the next day. - -Wednesday, 20, the waves were so high, that one man was constantly -occupied in bailing the boats. We passed at noon, Cannonball river; -and at three in the afternoon, the entrance of the river Wardepon, -the boundary of the country claimed by the Sioux; and after coming -eighty-one miles, passed the night on a sandbar. The plains are -beginning to change their appearance, the grass becoming of a yellow -colour. We have seen great numbers of wolves to-day, and some buffaloe -and elk, though these are by no means so abundant as on the Yellowstone. - -Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the -current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time -there were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the -former channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then -naked, are covered with willows several feet high: the entrance of some -of the creeks and rivers changed in consequence of the quantity of mud -thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight -inches in depth. - -Thursday, 21. We rose after a night of broken rest, owing to the -musquetoes, and having put our arms in order, so as to be prepared for -an attack, continued our course. We soon met three traders, two of -whom had wintered with us among the Mandans in 1804, and who were now -on their way there. They had exhausted all their powder and lead; we -therefore supplied them with both. They informed us that seven hundred -Sioux had passed the Ricara towns on their way to make war against the -Mandans and Minnetarees, leaving their women and children encamped near -the Bigbend of the Missouri, and that the Ricaras all remained at home, -without taking any part in the war. They also told us that the Pawnee, -or Ricara chief, who went to the United States in the spring of 1805, -died on his return near Sioux river. - -We then left them, and soon afterwards arrived opposite to the upper -Ricara villages. We saluted them with the discharge of four guns, which -they answered in the same manner; and on our landing we were met by the -greater part of the inhabitants of each village, and also by a band of -Chayennes, who were encamped on a hill in the neighbourhood. - -As soon as captain Clarke stepped on shore, he was greeted by the two -chiefs to whom we had given medals on our last visit, and as they, as -well as the rest, appeared much rejoiced at our return, and desirous of -hearing from the Mandans, he sat down on the bank, while the Ricaras -and Chayennes formed a circle round him; and after smoking, he informed -them, as he had already done the Minnetarees, of the various tribes we -had visited, and our anxiety to promote peace among our red brethren. -He then expressed his regret at their having attacked the Mandans, -who had listened to our counsels, and had sent on a chief to smoke -with them, and to assure them that they might now hunt in the plains, -and visit the Mandan villages in safety, and concluded by inviting -some of the chiefs to accompany us to Washington. The man whom we had -acknowledged as the principal chief when we ascended, now presented -another, who he said was a greater chief than himself, and to him, -therefore, he had surrendered the flag and medal with which we had -honoured him. This chief, who was absent at our last visit, is a man of -thirty-five years of age, a stout, well-looking man, and called by the -Indians, Grayeyes. - -He now made a very animated reply. He declared that the Ricaras were -willing to follow the counsels we had given them, but a few of their -bad young men would not live in peace, but had joined the Sioux, and -thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These young men had, however, -been driven out of the villages, and as the Ricaras were now separated -from the Sioux, who were a bad people, and the cause of all their -misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the Mandans, and -would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of the chiefs -he said were desirous of visiting their great father, but as the chief -who went to the United States last summer had not returned, and they -had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they did not -wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to himself, he -would continue with his nation, to see that they followed our advice. - -The sun being now very hot, the chief of the Chayennes invited us to -his lodge, which was at no great distance from the river. We followed -him, and found a very large lodge, made of twenty buffaloe skins, -surrounded by eighteen or twenty lodges, nearly equal in size. The -rest of the nation are expected to-morrow, and will make the number -of one hundred and thirty or fifty lodges, containing from three -hundred and fifty to four hundred men, at which the men of the nation -may be computed. These Chayennes are a fine looking people, of a -large stature, straight limbs, high cheek-bones and noses, and of a -complexion similar to that of the Ricaras. Their ears are cut at the -lower part, but few wear ornaments in them: the hair is generally -cut over the eyebrows and small ornaments fall down the cheeks, the -remainder being either twisted with horse or buffaloe hair, and divided -over each shoulder, or else flowing loosely behind. Their decorations -consist chiefly of blue beads, shells, red paint, brass rings, bears’ -claws, and strips of otter skins, of which last they, as well as the -Ricaras, are very fond. The women are coarse in their features, with -wide mouths, and ugly. Their dress consists of a habit falling to the -midleg, and made of two equal pieces of leather, sewed from the bottom -with arm holes, with a flap hanging nearly half way down the body, -both before and behind. These are burnt various figures, by means of -a hot stick, and adorned with beads, shells, and elks’ tusks, which -all Indians admire. The other ornaments are blue beads in the ears, -but the hair is plain and flows down the back. The summer dress of the -men is a simple buffaloe robe, a cloth round the waist, moccasins, -and occasionally leggings. Living remote from the whites, they are -shy and cautious, but are peaceably disposed, and profess to make war -against no people except the Sioux, with whom they have been engaged -in contests immemorially. In their excursions they are accompanied by -their dogs and horses, which they possess in great numbers, the former -serving to carry almost all their light baggage. After smoking for some -time, captain Clarke gave a small medal to the Chayenne chief, and -explained at the same time the meaning of it. He seemed alarmed at this -present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of buffaloe meat, which he -gave to captain Clarke, and requested him to take back the medal, for -he knew that all white people were medicine, and he was afraid of the -medal, or of any thing else which the white people gave to the Indians. -Captain Clarke then repeated his intention in giving the medal, which -was the medicine his great father had directed him to deliver to all -chiefs who listened to his word and followed his counsels; and that as -he had done so, the medal was given as a proof that we believed him -sincere. He now appeared satisfied and received the medal, in return -for which he gave double the quantity of buffaloe meat he had offered -before. He seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and requested -that some traders might be sent among the Chayennes, who lived, he -said, in a country full of beaver, but did not understand well how to -catch them, and were discouraged from it by having no sale for them -when caught. Captain Clarke promised that they should be soon supplied -with goods, and taught the best mode of catching beaver. - -The Bigwhite, chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, -explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; and the Chayenne -observed that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; -but at the end of the council the Mandan chief was treated with -great civility, and the greatest harmony prevailed among them. The -great chief, however, informed us, that none of the Ricaras could be -prevailed on to go with us till the return of the other chief, and -that the Chayennes were a wild people, and afraid to go. He invited -captain Clarke to his house, and gave him two carrots of tobacco, two -beaver skins, and a trencher of boiled corn and beans. It is the custom -of all the nations on the Missouri, to offer to every white man food -and refreshment when he first enters their tents. - -Captain Clarke returned to the boats, where he found the chief of the -lower village, who had cut off part of his hair, and disfigured himself -in such a manner that we did not recognise him at first, until he -explained that he was in mourning for his nephew, who had been killed -by the Sioux. He proceeded with us to the village on the island, where -we were met by all the inhabitants. The second chief, on seeing the -Mandan, began to speak to him in a loud and threatning tone, till -captain Clarke declared that the Mandans had listened to our councils, -and that if any injury was done to the chief, we should defend him -against every nation. He then invited the Mandan to his lodge, and -after a very ceremonious smoking, assured captain Clarke that the -Mandan was as safe as at home, for the Ricaras had opened their ears to -our councils, as well as the Mandans. This was repeated by the great -chief, and the Mandan and Ricara chiefs now smoked and conversed in -great apparent harmony; after which we returned the boats. The whole -distance to-day was twenty-nine miles. - -Friday, 22. It rained all night, so that we all rose this morning quite -wet, and were about proceeding, when captain Clarke was requested to -visit the chiefs. They now made several speeches, in which they said -that they were unwilling to go with us, until the return of their -countryman; and that, although they disliked the Sioux as the origin -of all their troubles, yet as they had more horses than they wanted, -and were in want of guns and powder, they would be obliged to trade -once more with them for those articles, after which they would break -off all connexion with them. He now returned to the boats, and after -taking leave of the people, who seemed to regret our departure, and -firing a salute of two guns, proceeded seventeen miles, and encamped -below Grouse island. We made only seventeen miles to-day, for we were -obliged to land near Wetarhoo river to dry our baggage, besides which -the sandbars are now unusually numerous as the river widens below the -Ricara villages. Captain Lewis is now so far recovered that he was able -to walk a little to-day for the first time. While here we had occasion -to notice that the Mandans as well as the Minnetarees and Ricaras keep -their horses in the same lodges with themselves. - -Saturday, 23. We set out early, but the wind was so high, that soon -after passing the Sahwacanah, we were obliged to go on shore, and -remain till three o’clock, when a heavy shower of rain fell and the -wind lulled. We then continued our route, and after a day’s journey of -forty miles encamped. Whilst on shore we killed three deer and as many -elk. Along the river are great quantities of grapes and choke-cherries, -and also a species of currant which we have never seen before: it is -black, with a leaf much larger than that of the other currants, and -inferior in flavour to all of them. - -Sunday, 24. We set out at sunrise, and at eight o’clock passed -Lahoocat’s island, opposite to the lower point of which we landed to -examine a stratum of stone, near the top of a bluff of remarkably black -clay. It is soft, white, and contains a very fine grit; and on being -dried in the sun will crumble to pieces. The wind soon after became so -high that we were obliged to land for several hours, but proceeded at -five o’clock. After making forty-three miles, we encamped at the gorge -of the Lookout bend of the Missouri. The Sioux have lately passed in -this quarter, and there is now very little game, and that so wild, that -we were unable to shoot any thing. Five of the hunters were therefore -sent ahead before daylight next morning. - -Monday, 25, to hunt in the Pawnee island, and we followed them soon -after. At eight o’clock we reached the entrance of the Chayenne, where -we remained till noon, in order to take a meridian observation. At -three o’clock we passed the old Pawnee village, near which we had met -the Tetons in 1804, and encamped in a large bottom on the northeast -side, a little below the mouth of Notimber creek. Just above our camp -the Ricaras had formerly a large village on each side of the river, -and there are still seen the remains of five villages on the southwest -side, below the Chayenne, and one also on Lahoocat’s island; but -these have all been destroyed by the Sioux. The weather was clear and -calm, but by means of our oars we made forty-eight miles. Our hunters -procured nothing except a few deer. - -The skirt of timber in the bend above the Chayenne is inconsiderable, -and scattered from four to sixteen miles on the southwest side of the -river, and the thickest part is from the distance of from ten to six -miles of the Chayenne. A narrow bottom of small cottonwood trees is -also on the northeast point, at the distance of four miles above the -river. A few large trees, and a small undergrowth of willows on the -lower side bottom on the Missouri half a mile, and extend a quarter of -a mile up the Chayenne: there is a bottom of cotton timber in the part -above the Chayenne. The Chayenne discharges but a little water at its -mouth, which resembles that of the Missouri. - -Tuesday, 26. After A heavy dew we set out, and at nine o’clock reached -the entrance of Teton river, below which were a raft and a skin canoe, -which induced us to suspect that the Tetons were in the neighbourhood. -The arms were therefore put in perfect order, and every thing prepared -to revenge the slightest insult from those people, to whom it is -necessary to show an example of salutary rigour. We, however, went on -without seeing any of them, although we were obliged to land near Smoke -creek for two hours, to stop a leak in the periogue. Here we saw great -quantities of plums and grapes, but not yet ripe. At five o’clock we -passed Louisville’s fort, on Cedar island, twelve miles below which -we encamped, having been able to row sixty miles, with the wind ahead -during the greater part of the day. - -Wednesday, 27. Before sunrise we set out with a stiff eastern breeze -in our faces, and at the distance of a few miles landed on a sandbar -near Tyler’s river, and sent out the hunters, as this was the most -favourable spot to recruit our stock of meat, which was now completely -exhausted. But after a hunt of three hours, they reported that no game -was to be found in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the -immense number of buffaloes which had recently passed over it; and -that they saw only a few buffaloe bulls, which they did not kill, as -they were quite unfit for use. Near this place we observed, however, -the first signs of the wild turkey; and not long after landed in the -Bigbend, and killed a fine fat elk, on which we feasted. Towards night -we heard the bellowing of the buffaloe bulls, on the lower island of -the Bigbend. We pursued this agreeable sound, and after killing some -of the cows, encamped on the island, forty-five miles from the camp of -last night. - -Thursday, 28. We proceeded at an early hour, having previously -despatched some hunters ahead, with orders to join us at our old camp -a little above Corvus creek, where we intended remaining one day, in -order to procure the skins and skeletons of some animals, such as the -mule-deer, the antelope, the barking squirrel, and the magpie, which -we were desirous of carrying to the United States, and which we had -seen in great abundance. After rowing thirty-two miles we landed at -twelve, and formed a camp in a high bottom, thinly timbered and covered -with grass, and not crowded with musquetoes. Soon after we arrived -the squaws and several of the men went to the bushes near the river, -and brought great quantities of large well flavoured plums of three -different species. - -The hunters returned in the afternoon, without being able to procure -any of the game we wished, except the barking squirrel, though they -killed four common deer, and had seen large herds of buffaloe, of which -they brought in two. They resumed their hunt in the morning, - -Friday, 29, and the rest of the party were employed in dressing skins, -except two, who were sent to the village of the barking squirrels, -but could not see one of them out of their holes. At ten o’clock the -skins were dressed, and we proceeded; and soon passed the entrance of -White river, the water of which is at this time nearly the colour of -milk. The day was spent in hunting along the river, so that we did -not advance more than twenty-miles; but with all our efforts we were -unable to kill either a mule-deer or an antelope, though we procured -the common deer, a porcupine, and some buffaloe. These last animals are -now so numerous that from an eminence we discovered more than we had -ever seen before at one time; and if it be not impossible to calculate -the moving multitude, which darkened the whole plains, we are convinced -that twenty thousand would be no exaggerated number. With regard to -game in general, we observe that the greatest quantity of wild animals -are usually found in the country lying between two nations at war. - -Saturday, 30. We set out at the usual hour, but after going some -distance were obliged to stop for two hours, in order to wait for -one of the hunters. During this time we made an excursion to a large -orchard of delicious plums, where we were so fortunate as to kill two -buck elks. We then proceeded down the river, and were about landing -at a place where we had agreed to meet all the hunters, when several -persons appeared on the high hills to the northeast, whom, by the -help of the spy-glass, we distinguished to be Indians. We landed on -the southwest side of the river, and immediately after saw, on a -height opposite to us, about twenty persons, one of whom, from his -blanket great-coat, and a handkerchief round his head, we supposed -to be a Frenchman. At the same time, eighty or ninety more Indians, -armed with guns and bows and arrows, came out of a wood some distance -below them, and fired a salute, which we returned. From their hostile -appearance, we were apprehensive that they might be Tetons; but as -from the country through which they were roving, it was possible that -they were Yanktons, Pawnees, or Mahas, and therefore less suspicious, -we did not know in what way to receive them. In order, however, to -ascertain who they were, without risk to the party, captain Clarke -crossed, with three persons who could speak different Indian languages, -to a sandbar near the opposite side, in hopes of conversing with them. -Eight young men soon met him on the sandbar, but none of them could -understand either the Pawnee or Maha interpreter. They were then -addressed in the Sioux language, and answered that they were Tetons, -of the band headed by the Black-buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was the -same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; and being now less anxious -about offending so mischievous a tribe, captain Clarke told them that -they had been deaf to our councils, had ill treated us two years ago, -and had abused all the whites who had since visited them. He believed -them, he added, to be bad people and they must therefore return to -their companions, for if they crossed over to our camp we would put -them to death. They asked for some corn, which captain Clarke refused; -they then requested permission to come and visit our camp, but he -ordered them back to their own people. He then returned, and all the -arms were prepared in case of an attack; but when the Indians reached -their comrades, and had informed their chiefs of our intention, they -all set out on their way to their own camp; but some of them halted on -a rising ground, and abused us very copiously, threatening to kill us -if we came across. We took no notice of this for some time, till the -return of three of our hunters, whom we were afraid the Indians might -have met; but as soon as they joined us, we embarked; and to see what -the Indians would attempt, steered near the side of their river. At -this the party on the hill seemed agitated, some set out for their -camp, others walked about and one man walked toward the boats and -invited us to land. As he came near, we recognised him to be the same -who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and who is considered as -the friend of the whites. Unwilling, however, to have any interview -with these people, we declined his invitation; upon which he returned -to the hill, and struck the earth three times with his gun, a great -oath among the Indians, who consider swearing by the earth as one of -the most sacred forms of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we -stopped on a bleak sandbar; where, however, we thought ourselves safe -from attack during the night, and also free from musquetoes. We had now -made only twenty-two miles; but in the course of the day had procured -a mule-deer, which we much desired. About eleven in the evening the -wind shifted to the northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied with -hard claps of thunder and lightning; after which the wind changed -to southwest, and blew with such violence that we were obliged to -hold the canoes for fear of their being driven from the sandbar; the -cables of two of them however broke, and two others were blown quite -across the river, nor was it till two o’clock that the whole party was -reassembled, waiting in the rain for daylight. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - The party return in safety to St. Louis. - - -Sunday, August 31. We examined our arms, and proceeded with the wind -in our favour. For some time we saw several Indians on the hills, but -soon lost sight of them. In passing the dome, and the first village of -barking squirrels, we stopped and killed two fox squirrels, an animal -which we have not seen on the river higher than this place. At night -we encamped on the northeast side, after a journey of seventy miles. -We had seen no game, as usual, on the river; but in the evening the -musquetoes soon discovered us. - -Monday, September 1. We set out early, but were shortly compelled to -put to shore, for half an hour, till a thick fog disappeared. At nine -o’clock we passed the entrance of the Quicurre, which presents the same -appearance as when we ascended, the water rapid and of a milky-white -colour. Two miles below several Indians ran down to the bank, and -beckoned to us to land; but as they appeared to be Tetons, and of a war -party, we paid no attention to them, except to inquire to what tribe -they belonged; but as the Sioux interpreter did not understand much of -the language, they probably mistook his question. As one of our canoes -was behind, we were afraid of an attack on the men, and therefore -landed on an open commanding situation, out of the view of the Indians, -in order to wait for them. We had not been in this position fifteen -minutes, when we heard several guns, which we immediately concluded -were fired at the three hunters; and being now determined to protect -them against any number of Indians, captain Clarke with fifteen men -ran up the river, whilst captain Lewis hobbled up the bank, and formed -the rest of the party in such a manner as would best enable them to -protect the boats. On turning a point of the river, captain Clarke was -agreeably surprised at seeing the Indians remaining in the place where -we left them, and our canoe at the distance of a mile. He now went on -a sandbar, and when the Indians crossed, gave them his hand, and was -informed that they had been amusing themselves with shooting at an old -keg, which we had thrown into the river, and was floating down. We now -found them to be part of a band of eighty lodges of Yanktons, on Plum -creek, and therefore invited them down to the camp, and after smoking -several pipes, told them that we had mistaken them for Tetons, and -had intended putting every one of them to death, if they fired at our -canoe; but finding them Yanktons, who were good men, we were glad to -take them by the hand as faithful children, who had opened their ears -to our counsels. They saluted the Mandan with great cordiality, and one -of them declared that their ears had indeed been opened, and that they -had followed our advice since we gave a medal to their great chief, and -should continue to do so. We now tied a piece of riband to the hair -of each Indian, and gave them some corn. We made a present of a pair -of leggings to the principal chief, and then took our leave, being -previously overtaken by our canoe. At two o’clock we landed to hunt -on Bonhomme island, but obtained a single elk only. The bottom on the -northeast side is very rich, and so thickly overgrown with pea-vines -and grass, interwoven with grape-vines, that some of the party who -attempted to hunt there, were obliged to leave it and ascend the plain, -where they found the grass nearly as high as their heads. These plains -are much richer below than above the Quicurre, and the whole country -is now very beautiful. After making fifty-two miles against a head -wind, we stopped for the night on a sandbar, opposite to the Calumet -bluff, where we had encamped on the first of September, 1804, and -where our flag-staff was still standing. We suffered very much from the -musquetoes, till the wind became so high as to blow them all away. - -Tuesday, 2. At eight o’clock we passed the river Jacques, but soon -after were compelled to land, in consequence of the high wind from the -northeast, and remain till sunset: after which we went on to a sandbar -twenty-two miles from our camp of last evening. Whilst we were on shore -we killed three buffaloes, and four prairie fowls, which are the first -we have seen in descending. Two turkies were also killed, and were very -much admired by the Indians, who had never seen that animal before. The -plains continue level and fertile, and in the low grounds there is much -white oak, and some white ash in the ravines and high bottoms, with -lyn and slippery elm occasionally. During the night the wind shifted -to the southwest and blew the sand over us in such a manner, that our -situation was very unpleasant. It lulled, however, towards daylight, -and we then, - -Wednesday, 3, proceeded. At eleven o’clock we passed the Redstone. The -river is now crowded with sandbars, which are very differently situated -now from what they were when we ascended. But notwithstanding these -and the head wind, we made sixty miles before night, when we saw two -boats and several men on shore. We landed, and found a Mr. James Airs, -a partner of a house at Prairie de Chien, who had come from Mackinau -by the way of Prairie de Chien and St. Louis with a license to trade -among the Sioux for one year. He had brought two canoes loaded with -merchandise, but lost many of his most useful articles in a squall some -time since. After so long an interval, the sight of any one who could -give us information of our country, was peculiarly delightful, and -much of the night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred -during our absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal -gentleman, and when we proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of -tobacco, to be paid for in St. Louis, he very readily furnished every -man of the party with as much as he could use during the rest of the -voyage, and insisted on our accepting a barrel of flour. This last we -found very agreeable, although we have still a little flour which we -had deposited at the mouth of Maria’s river. We could give in return -only about six bushels of corn, which was all that we could spare. The -next morning, - -Thursday, 4, we left Mr. Airs about eight o’clock, and after passing -the Big Sioux river, stopped at noon near Floyd’s bluff. On ascending -the hill we found that the grave of Floyd had been opened, and was now -half uncovered. We filled it up, and then continued down to our old -camp near the Maha village, where all our baggage, which had been wet -by the rain of last night, was exposed to dry. There is no game on -the river except wild geese and pelicans. Near Floyd’s grave are some -flourishing black walnut trees, which are the first we have seen on our -return. At night we heard the report of several guns in a direction -towards the Maha village, and supposed it to be the signal of the -arrival of some trader. But not meeting him when we set out, the next -morning, - -Friday, 5, we concluded that the firing was merely to announce the -return of the Mahas to the village, this being the season at which they -return home from buffaloe hunting, to take care of their corn, beans -and pumpkins. The river is now more crooked, the current more rapid, -and crowded with snags and sawyers, and the bottoms on both sides well -supplied with timber. At three o’clock we passed the Bluestone bluff, -where the river leaves the highlands and meanders through a low rich -bottom, and at night encamped, after making seventy-three miles. - -Saturday, 6. The wind continued ahead, but the musquetoes was so -tormenting that to remain was more unpleasant than even to advance, -however slowly, and we therefore proceeded. Near the Little Sioux -river we met a trading boat belonging to Mr. Augustus Chateau, of St. -Louis, with several men on their way to trade with the Yanktons at the -river Jacques. We obtained from them a gallon of whiskey, and gave -each of the party a dram, which is the first spirituous liquor any of -them have tasted since the fourth of July 1805. After remaining with -them for some time we went on to a sandbar, thirty miles from our last -encampment, where we passed the night in expectation of being joined -by two of the hunters. But as they did not come on, we set out next -morning, - -Sunday, 7, leaving a canoe with five men, to wait for them, but had not -gone more than eight miles, when we overtook them; we therefore fired a -gun, which was a signal for the men behind, which, as the distance in -a direct line was about a mile, they readily heard and soon joined us. -A little above the Soldier’s river we stopped to dine on elk, of which -we killed three, and at night, after making forty-four miles, encamped -on a sandbar, where we hoped in vain to escape from the musquetoes. We -therefore set out early the next morning, - -Monday, 8, and stopped for a short time at the Council bluffs, to -examine the situation of the place, and were confirmed in our belief -that it would be a very eligible spot for a trading establishment. -Being anxious to reach the Platte, we plied our oars so well, that by -night we had made seventy-eight miles, and landed at our old encampment -at Whitecatfish camp, twelve miles above that river. We had here -occasion to remark the wonderful evaporation from the Missouri, which -does not appear to contain more water, nor is its channel wider than -at the distance of one thousand miles nearer its source, although -within that space it receives about twenty rivers, some of them of -considerable width, and a great number of creeks. This evaporation -seems, in fact, to be greater now than when we ascended the river, for -we are obliged to replenish the inkstand every day with fresh ink, nine -tenths of which must escape by evaporation. - -Tuesday, 9. By eight o’clock we passed the river Platte, which is -lower than it was, and its waters almost clear, though the channel -is turbulent as usual. The sandbars which obstructed the Missouri -are, however, washed away, and nothing is to be seen except a few -remains of the bar. Below the Platte, the current of the Missouri -becomes evidently more rapid, and the obstructions from fallen timber -increased. The river bottoms are extensive, rich, and covered with -tall, large timber, which is still more abundant in the hollows of -the ravines, where may be seen, oak, ash, elm, interspersed with some -walnut and hickory. The musquetoes also, though still numerous, seem -to lose some of their vigour. As we advance so rapidly, the change -of climate is very perceptible, the air is more sultry than we have -experienced for a long time before, and the nights so warm that a -thin blanket is now sufficient, although a few days ago two were not -burdensome. Late in the afternoon we encamped opposite to the Baldpated -prairie, after a journey of seventy-three miles. - -Wednesday, 10. We again set out early and the wind being moderate, -though still ahead, we came sixty-five miles to a sandbar, a short -distance above the grand Nemaha. In the course of the day we met a -trader, with three men, on his way to the Pawnee Loups or Wolf Pawnees, -on the Platte. Soon after another boat passed us with seven men from -St. Louis, bound to the Mahas. With both of these trading parties we -had some conversation, but our anxiety to go on would not suffer us to -remain long with them. The Indians, and particularly the squaws and -children are weary of the long journey, and we are not less desirous of -seeing our country and friends. We saw on the shore, deer, rackoons, -and turkies. - -Thursday, 11. A high wind from the northwest detained us till after -sunrise, when we proceeded slowly; for as the river is rapid and -narrow, as well as more crowded with sandbars and timber than above, -much caution is necessary in avoiding these obstacles, particularly -in the present low state of the water. The Nemaha seems less wide than -when we saw it before, and Wolf river has scarcely any water. In the -afternoon we halted above the Nadowa to hunt, and killed two deer; -after which we went on to a small island, forty miles from our last -night’s encampment. Here we were no longer annoyed by musquetoes, which -do not seem to frequent this part of the river; and after having been -persecuted with these insects during the whole route from the falls, -it is a most agreeable exemption. Their noise was very agreeably -changed for that of the common wolves, which were howling in different -directions, and the prairie wolves, whose barking resembles precisely -that of the common cur dog. - -Friday, 12. After a thick fog and a heavy dew we set out by sunrise, -and at the distance of seven miles met two periogues, one of them -bound to the Platte, for the purpose of trading with the Pawnees, the -other on a trapping expedition to the neighbourhood of the Mahas. -Soon after we met the trading party under Mr. McClellan; and with -them was Mr. Gravelines, the interpreter, whom we had sent with a -Ricara chief to the United States. The chief had unfortunately died at -Washington, and Gravelines was now on his way to the Ricaras, with a -speech from the president, and the presents which had been made to the -chief. He had also directions to instruct the Ricaras in agriculture. -He was accompanied on this mission by old Mr. Durion, our former -Sioux interpreter, whose object was to procure, by his influence, a -safe passage for the Ricara presents through the bands of Sioux, and -also to engage some of the Sioux chiefs, not exceeding six, to visit -Washington. Both of them were instructed to inquire particularly after -the fate of our party, no intelligence having been received from us -during a long time. We authorised Mr. Durion to invite ten or twelve -Sioux chiefs to accompany him, particularly the Yanktons, whom we -had found well disposed towards our country. The afternoon being -wet, we determined to remain with Mr. McClellan during the night; and -therefore, after sending on five hunters ahead, spent the evening in -inquiries after occurrences in the United States during our absence; -and by eight o’clock next morning, - -Saturday, 13, overtook the hunters; but they had killed nothing. The -wind being now too high to proceed safely through timber stuck in every -part of the channel, we landed, and sent the small canoes ahead to -hunt. Towards evening we overtook them, and encamped, not being able to -advance more than eighteen miles. The weather was very warm, and the -rushes in the bottoms so high and thick that we could scarcely hunt, -but were fortunate enough to obtain four deer and a turkey, which, -with the hooting owl, the common buzzard, crow, and hawk, were the -only game we saw. Among the timber is the cottonwood, sycamore, ash, -mulberry, pappaw, walnut, hickory, prickly ash, several species of elm, -intermixed with great quantities of grape-vines, and three kinds of -peas. - -Sunday, 14. We resumed our journey, and this being a part of the river -to which the Kanzas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we -held ourselves in readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer -us the slightest indignity, as we no longer needed their friendship, -and found that a tone of firmness and decision is the best possible -method of making proper impression on these freebooters. We, however, -did not encounter any of them; but just below the old Kanzas village -met three trading boats from St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons -and Mahas. After leaving them we saw a number of deer, of which we -killed five, and encamped on an island, fifty-three miles from our -encampment of last evening. - -Monday, 15. A strong breeze ahead prevented us from advancing more than -forty-nine miles to the neighbourhood of Haycabin creek. The river -Kanzas is very low at this time. About a mile below it we landed to -view the situation of a high hill, which has many advantages for a -trading house or fort; while on the shore we gathered great quantities -of pappaws, and shot an elk. The low grounds are now delightful, and -the whole country exhibits a rich appearance; but the weather is -oppressively warm, and descending as rapidly as we do from a cool open -country, between the latitude of 46 and 49°, in which we have been for -nearly two years, to the wooded plains in 38 and 39° the heat would be -almost insufferable were it not for the constant winds from the south -and southeast. - -Tuesday, 16. We set out at an early hour, but the weather soon became -so warm that the men rowed but little. In the course of the day we met -two trading parties, on their way to the Pawnees and Mahas, and after -making fifty-two miles, remained on an island till next morning, - -Wednesday, 17, when we passed in safety the island of the Little Osage -village. This place is considered by the navigators of the Missouri, -as the most dangerous part of it, the whole water being compressed, -for two miles, within a narrow channel, crowded with timber, into -which the violence of the current is constantly washing the banks. -At the distance of thirty miles we met a captain McClellan, lately -of the United States’ army, with whom we encamped. He informed us -that the general opinion in the United States was that we were lost; -the last accounts which had been heard of us being from the Mandan -villages. Captain McClellan is on his way to attempt a new trade with -the Indians. His plan is to establish himself on the Platte, and after -trading with the Pawnees and Ottoes, prevail on some of their chiefs -to accompany him to Santa Fee, where he hopes to obtain permission -to exchange his merchandise for gold and silver, which is there in -abundance. If this be granted, he can transport his goods on mules -and horses from the Platte to some part of Louisiana, convenient to -the Spanish settlements, where he may be met by the traders from New -Mexico. - -Thursday, 18. We parted with captain McClellan, and within a few -miles passed the Grand river, below which we overtook the hunters, -who had been sent forward yesterday afternoon. They had not been able -to kill any thing, nor did we see any game except one bear and three -turkies, so that our whole stock of provisions is one biscuit for each -person; but as there is an abundance of pappaws, the men are perfectly -contented. The current of the river is more gentle than it was when -we ascended, the water being lower though still rapid in places where -it is confined. We continued to pass through a very fine country, for -fifty-two miles, when we encamped nearly opposite to Mine river. The -next morning, - -Friday, 19, we worked our oars all day, without taking time to hunt, -or even landing, except once to gather pappaws; and at eight o’clock -reached the entrance of the Osage river, a distance of seventy-two -miles. Several of the party have been for a day or two attacked with a -soreness in the eyes; the eye-ball being very much swelled and the lid -appearing as if burnt by the sun, and extremely painful, particularly -when exposed to the light. Three of the men are so much affected by it, -as to be unable to row. We therefore turned one of the boats adrift, -and distributed the men among the other canoes, when we set out a -little before day-break, - -Saturday, 20. The Osage is at this time low, and discharges but a very -small quantity of water. Near the mouth of Gasconade, where we arrived -at noon, we met five Frenchmen on their way to the Great Osage village. -As we moved along rapidly, we saw on the banks some cows feeding, and -the whole party almost involuntarily raised a shout of joy at seeing -this image of civilization and domestic life. - -Soon after we reached the little French village of Lacharette, which we -saluted with a discharge of four guns, and three hearty cheers. We then -landed, and were received with kindness by the inhabitants, as well as -some traders from Canada, who were going to traffic with the Osages and -Ottoes. They were all equally surprised and pleased at our arrival, for -they had long since abandoned all hopes of ever seeing us return. - -These Canadians have boats prepared for the navigation of the Missouri, -which seem better calculated for the purpose than those in any other -form. They are in the shape of batteaux, about thirty feet long, and -eight wide; the bow and stern pointed, the bottom flat, and carrying -six oars only, and their chief advantage is their width and flatness, -which saves them from the danger of rolling sands. - -Having come sixty-eight miles, and the weather threatening to be bad, -we remained at La Charette till the next morning, - -Sunday, 21, when we proceeded, and as several settlements have been -made during our absence, were refreshed with the sight of men and -cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo -Indians, going on a hunting excursion. At length, after coming -forty-eight miles, we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the -village of St. Charles, and on landing were treated with the greatest -hospitality and kindness by all the inhabitants of that place. Their -civility detained us till ten o’clock the next morning, - -Monday, 22, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater -creek, about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found -a cantonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the -day, and then, - -Tuesday, 23, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, -where we arrived at twelve o’clock, and having fired a salute went on -shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome from the -whole village. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - _Observations and reflections on the present and future state - of Upper Louisiana, in relation to the government of the Indian - nations inhabiting that country, and the trade and intercourse - with the same. By captain Lewis._ - - -With a view to a more complete development of this subject, I have -deemed it expedient in the outset, to state the leading measures -pursued by the provincial government of Spain, in relation to this -subject; the evils which flowed from those measures, as well to the -Indians as to the whites, in order that we may profit by their errors, -and be ourselves the better enabled to apply the necessary correctives -to the remnant of evils which their practice introduced. - -From the commencement of the Spanish provincial government in -Louisiana, whether by the permission of the crown, or originating in -the pecuniary rapacity of their governors general, this officer assumed -to himself exclusively the right of trading with all the Indian nations -in Louisiana; and therefore proceeded to dispose of this privilege to -individuals, for certain specific sums; his example was imitated by -the governors of Upper Louisiana, who made a further exaction. Those -exclusive permissions to individuals varied as to the extent of country -or nations they embraced, and the period for which granted; but in all -cases the exclusive licenses were offered to the highest bidder, and, -consequently, the sums paid by the individuals purchasing, were quite -as much as the profits of the trade would bear, and in many instances, -from a spirit of opposition between contending applicants, much more -was given than ever the profits of the traffic would justify. The -individual, of course, became bankrupt. This, however, was among the -least of the evils flowing from this system to the Indian; it produced -the evil of compelling him to pay such enormous sums for the articles -he purchased, that his greatest exertions would not enable him to -obtain as much as he had previously been in the habit of consuming, -and which he therefore conceived necessary to him; for as this system -progressed the demands of the governors became more exorbitant, and -the trader, to meet his engagements, exacted higher prices from the -Indians, though the game became scarcer in their country. The morals -of the Indian were corrupted by placing before him the articles which -he viewed as of the first necessity to him, at such prices, that he -had it not in his power to purchase; he was therefore induced, in -many instances, to take by force that which he had not the means of -paying for; consoling himself with the idea, that the trader was -compelled of necessity to possess himself of the peltries and furs, in -order to meet his engagements with those from whom he had purchased -his merchandise, as well as those who had assisted him in their -transportation. He consequently could not withdraw himself from their -trade, without inevitable ruin. The prevalence of this sentiment among -the Indians, was strongly impressed on my mind by an anecdote related -to me by a gentleman, who had for several years enjoyed, under the -Spanish government, the exclusive privilege of trading with the Little -Osages. It happened, that after he had bartered with them for all their -peltries and furs which they had on hand, that they seized forcibly -on a number of guns and a quantity of ammunition which he had still -remaining; he remonstrated with them against this act of violence, -and finally concluded by declaring that he would never return among -them again, nor would he suffer any person to bring them merchandise -thereafter. They heard him out very patiently, when one of their -leaders pertly asked him; if he did not return the next season to -obtain their peltries and furs, how he intended to pay the persons from -whom he had purchased the merchandise they had then taken from him? - -The Indians believed that these traders were the most powerful persons -in the nation; nor did they doubt their ability to withhold merchandise -from them; but the great thirst displayed by the traders for the -possession of their peltries and furs, added to the belief that they -were compelled to continue their traffic, was considered by the Indians -a sufficient guarantee for the continuance of their intercourse, and -therefore felt themselves at liberty to practise aggressions on the -traders with impunity: thus they governed the trader by what they -conceived his necessities to possess their furs and peltries, rather -than governing themselves by their own anxiety to obtain merchandise, -as they may most effectually be by a well regulated system. It is -immaterial to the Indians how they obtain merchandise; in possession of -a supply they feel independent. The Indians found by a few experiments -of aggression on the traders, that as it respected themselves, it had -a salutary effect; and although they had mistaken the legitimate cause -of action on the part of the trader, the result being favourable to -themselves, they continued their practice. The fact is, that the trader -was compelled to continue his trade under every disadvantage, in order -to make good his engagements to the governors; for having secured their -protection, they were safe, both in person and property from their -other creditors, who were, for the most part, the merchants of Montreal. - -The first effect of these depredations of the Indians, was the -introduction of a ruinous custom among the traders, of extending to -them a credit. The traders, who visited the Indians on the Missouri, -arrived at their wintering stations from the latter end of September -to the middle of October: here they carried on their traffic until -the latter end of March or beginning of April. In the course of the -season they had possessed themselves of every skin the Indians had -procured, of course there was an end of trade; but previous to their -return, the Indians insist upon a credit being given on the faith of -payment when he returned the next season. The trader understands his -situation, and knowing this credit was nothing less than the price of -his passport, or the privilege of departing in safety to his home, of -course narrowed down the amount of this credit, by concealing, as far -as he could, to avoid the suspicions of the Indians, the remnant of -his merchandise. But the amount to be offered must always be such as -they had been accustomed to receive; and which in every case, bore a -considerable proportion to their whole trade; say the full amount of -their summer or redskin hunt. The Indians well knew that the traders -were in their power, and the servile motives which induced them to -extend their liberality to them, and were therefore the less solicitous -to meet their engagements on the day of payment; to this indifference -they were further urged by the traders distributing among them, on -those occasions, many articles of the last necessity to them. The -consequence was, that when the traders returned the ensuing fall, if -they obtained only one half of their credits they were well satisfied, -as this covered their real expenditure. - -Again, if it so happen, in the course of the winter’s traffic, that the -losses of the trader, growing out of the indolence of the Indians, and -their exorbitant exactions under the appellation of credit, should so -reduce his stock in trade that he could not pay the governor the price -stipulated for his license, and procure a further supply of goods in -order to prosecute his trade, the license was immediately granted to -some other individual, who, with an ample assortment of merchandise, -visits the place of rendezvous of his predecessor, without the -interpolation of a single season. It did not unfrequently happen, that -the individuals engaged in this commerce, finding one of their number -failing from the rapacity of the Indian nation, with which he had been -permitted to trade, were not so anxious to possess themselves of the -privilege of trading with that nation; the governor, of course, rather -than lose all advantages, would abate of his demands considerably. The -new trader thus relieved of a considerable proportion of the tax borne -by his predecessor, and being disposed to make a favourable impression -on the minds of the Indians, to whom he was about to introduce himself, -would, for the first season at least, dispose of his goods to those -Indians on more moderate terms than his predecessor had done. The -Indians now find that the aggressions they have practised on their -former trader, so far from proving detrimental to them, had procured -not only their exoneration from the payment of the last credit given -them by their former trader, but that the present trader furnished -them goods on better terms than they had been accustomed to receive -them. Thus encouraged by the effects of this rapacious policy, it -was not to be expected that they would alter their plan of operation -as it respected their new trader; or that they should appreciate -the character of the whites in general in any other manner, than as -expressed in a prevailing sentiment on this subject, now common among -several nations on the Missouri, to wit: “_that the white men are like -dogs, the more you beat them and plunder them, the more goods they -will bring you, and the cheaper they will sell them_.” This sentiment -constitutes, at present, the rule of action among the Kanzas, Sioux, -and others; and if it be not broken down by the adoption of some -efficient measures, it needs not the aid of any deep calculation to -determine the sum of advantages which will result to the American -people from the trade of the Missouri. These aggressions on the part of -the Indians, were encouraged by the pusillanimity of the engagees, who -declared that they were not engaged to fight. - -The evils which flowed from this system of exclusive trade, were -sensibly felt by the inhabitants of Louisiana. The governor, -regardless of the safety of the community, sold to an individual the -right of vending among the Indians every species of merchandise; thus -bartering, in effect, his only efficient check on the Indians. The -trader, allured by the hope of gain, neither shackled with discretion, -nor consulting the public good, proceeded to supply the Indians, on -whom he was dependent, with arms, ammunition, and all other articles -they might require. The Indian, thus independent, acknowledging no -authority but his own, will proceed without compunction of conscience -or fear of punishment, to wage war on the defenceless inhabitants -of the frontier, whose lives and property, in many instances, were -thus sacrificed at the shrine of an _inordinate thirst for wealth_ in -their governors, which in reality occasioned all those evils. Although -the governors could not have been ignorant that the misfortunes of -the people were caused by the independence of the Indians, to which -they were accessory, still they were the more unwilling to apply the -corrective; because the very system which gave them wealth in the -outset, in the course of its progress, afforded them many plausible -pretexts to put their hands into the treasury of the king their -master. For example; the Indians attack the frontier, kill some of -the inhabitants, plunder many others, and agreeably to their custom -of warfare, retire instantly to their villages with their booty. -The governor informed of this transaction, promptly calls on the -inhabitants to aid and assist in repelling the invasion. Accordingly a -party assemble under their officers, some three or four days after the -mischief had been done, and the Indians, one hundred, or one hundred -and fifty miles from them, they pursue them, as they usually did, at -no rapid pace, three or four days, and returned without overtaking the -enemy, as they might have well known before they set out. On their -return the men were dismissed, but ordered to hold themselves in -readiness at a moment’s warning. When at the end of some two or three -months, the governor chose to consider the danger blown over, he -causes receipts to be made out for the full pay of two or three months -service, to which the signatures of the individuals are affixed; but -as those persons were only absent from their homes ten or twelve days, -all that was really paid them, did not amount to more than one fourth -or one fifth of what they receipted for, and the balance of course was -taken by the governor, as the reward for his faithful guardianship of -the lives and property of his majesty’s subjects. - -The Spaniards holding the entrance of the Missouri, could regulate -as they thought proper the intercourse with the Indians through that -channel; but from what has been said, it will be readily perceived, -that their traders, shackled with the pecuniary impositions of their -governors, could never become the successful rivals of the British -merchants on the west side of the Mississippi, which, from its -proximity to the United States, the latter could enter without the -necessity of a Spanish passport, or the fear of being detected by them. -The consequence was that the trade of the rivers Demoin, St. Peter’s, -and all the country west of the Mississippi nearly to the Missouri, was -exclusively enjoyed by the British merchants. The Spanish governors, -stimulated by their own sordid views, declared that the honour of his -majesty was grossly compromitted by the liberty that those adventurers -took in trading with the natives within his territory, without their -permission, and therefore took the liberty of expending his majesty’s -money by equipping and manning several galleys to cruise in the -channels of the Mississippi in order to intercept those traders of -the St. Peter’s and Demoin rivers, in their passage to and from the -entrance of the Oisconsing river; but after several unsuccessful -cruises, and finding the Indians so hostile to them in this quarter, -that they dare not land nor remain long in the channel without being -attacked, they therefore retired and gave over the project. The -Indians were friendly to the British merchants, and unfriendly to -the Spanish, for the plain reason that the former sold them goods -at a lower rate. The Ayaways, Sacks, Foxes and Yanktons of the river -Demoin, who occasionally visited the Missouri, had it in their power -to compare the rates at which the Spanish merchant in that quarter, -and the British merchant on the Mississippi sold their goods; this was -always much in favour of the latter; it therefore availed the Spaniard -but little, when they inculcated the doctrine of their being their -only legitimate fathers and friends, and that the British merchants -were mere intruders, and had no other object in view but their own -aggrandizement. The Indians, deaf to this doctrine, estimated the -friendship of both by the rates at which they respectively sold their -merchandise; and of course remained the firm friends of the British. In -this situation it is not difficult for those to conceive who have felt -the force of their machinations, that the British merchants would, in -order to extend their own trade, endeavour to break down that of their -neighbours on the Missouri. The attachments of the Indians to them, -afforded a formidable weapon with which to effect their purposes, nor -did they suffer it to remain unemployed. - -The merchants of the Dog prairie, rivers Demoin and Ayaway, stimulated -the nations just mentioned to the commission of acts of rapacity -on the merchants of the Missouri, nor was Mr. Cameron and others, -merchants of the river St. Peter’s, less active with respect to the -Cissitons, Yanktons of the plains, Tetons, &c. who resort the Missouri -occasionally still higher up. War parties of those nations were -consequently found lying in wait on the Missouri, to intercept the -boats of the merchants of that river at the seasons they were expected -to pass, and depredations were frequently committed, particularly by -the Ayaways, who have been known in several instances to capture boats -on the Missouri, in their descent to St. Louis, and compelled the -crews to load themselves with heavy burdens of their best furs across -the country to towns, where they disposed of them to the British -merchants. In those cases they always destroyed the periogues, and -such of the peltries and furs as they could not carry off. It may be -urged, that the British merchants knowing that the United States, at -present, through mere courtesy, permit them to extend their trade to -the west side of the Mississippi; or rather that they are mere tenants -at will, and that the United States possess the means of ejecting them -at pleasure; that they will, under these circumstances, be induced to -act differently towards us than they did in relation to the Spanish -government; but what assurance have we that this will be the effect of -the mere change of governments without change of measures in relation -to them. Suffer me to ask what solid grounds there are to hope that -their gratitude for our tolerance and liberality on this subject, will -induce them to hold a different policy towards us. None, in my opinion, -unless we stimulate their gratitude by placing before their eyes the -instruments of our power in the form of one or two garrisons on the -upper part of the Mississippi. Even admit that the people were actuated -by the most friendly regard towards the interests of the United States, -and at this moment made a common cause with us to induce the Indians -to demean themselves in an orderly manner towards our government, and -to treat our traders of the Missouri with respect and friendship, yet, -without some efficient check on the Indians, I should not think our -citizens nor our traders secure; because the Indians, who have for -ten years and upwards, derived advantages from practice on lessons of -rapacity taught them by those traders, cannot at a moment be brought -back to a state of primitive innocence, by the united persuasions of -all the British traders. I hold it an axiom, incontrovertible, _that -it is more easy to introduce vice into all states of society than it -is to eradicate it_; and that this is still more strictly true, when -applied to man in savage than in his civilized state. If, therefore, we -wish, within some short period, to devest ourselves of the evils which -flowed from the inculcation of those doctrines of vice, we must employ -some more active agent than the influence of the same teachers who -first introduced them. Such an agent, in my opinion, is the power of -withholding their merchandise from them at pleasure; and to accomplish -this, we must first provide the means of controlling the merchants. -If we permit the British merchants to supply the Indians in Louisiana -as formerly, the influence of our government over those Indians is -lost. For the Indian in possession of his merchandise, feels himself -independent of every government, and will proceed to commit the same -depredations which they did when rendered independent by the Spanish -system. - -The traders give themselves but little trouble at any time to inculcate -among the Indians a respect for governments; but are usually content -with proclaiming their own importance. When the British merchants give -themselves trouble to speak of governments, it is but fair to presume -that they will teach the natives to respect the power of their own. And -at all events, we know from experience that no regard for the blood of -our frontier inhabitants will influence them at any time to withhold -arms and ammunition from the Indians, provided they are to profit by -furnishing them. - -Having now stated, as they have occurred to my mind, the several evils -which flowed from that system of intercourse with the Indians, pursued -by the Spanish government, I shall next endeavour to point out the -defects of our own, and show its incompetency to produce the wished -for reform; then, with some remarks on the Indian character, conclude -by submitting for the consideration of our government, the outlines of -a plan which has been dictated as well by a sentiment of philanthropy -toward the aborigines of America, as a just regard to the protection -of the lives and property of our citizens; and with the further view -also of securing to the people of the United States, exclusively, the -advantages which ought of right to accrue to them from the possession -of Louisiana. - -We now permit the British merchants of Canada, indiscriminately with -our own, to enter the Missouri, and trade with the nations in that -quarter. Although the government of the U. States has not yielded -the point that, as a matter of right, the British merchants have the -privilege of trading in this quarter; yet from what has been said to -them, they are now acting under a belief, that it will be some time -before any prohibitory measures will be taken with respect to them; -and are therefore making rapid strides to secure themselves in the -affection of the Indians, and to break down, as soon as possible, the -American adventurers, by underselling them, and thus monopolize that -trade: this they will effect to an absolute certainty in the course of -a few years. The old Northwest company of Canada have, within the last -two years, formed a union with the Newyork company, who had previously -been the only important rivals in the fur trade; this company, with -the great accession of capital brought them by the Newyork company, -have, with a view to the particular monopoly of the Missouri, formed a -connexion with a British house in Newyork, another at New Orleans, and -have sent their particular agent, by the name of Jacob Mires, to take -his station at St. Louis. It may be readily conceived that the union -of the Northwest and Newyork companies, who had previously extended -their trade in opposition to each other, and to the exclusion of all -unassociated merchants on the upper portion of the Mississippi, the -waters of lake Winnipec and the Athebaskey country, would, after their -late union, have a surplus of capital and a surplus of men, which they -could readily employ in some other quarter: such was the Missouri, -which, from the lenity of our government, they saw was opened to them; -and I do believe, could the fact be ascertained, that the hope of -future gain from the fur trade of that river, was one of the principal -causes of the union between those two great rivals in the fur trade of -North America. That this trade will be nurtured and protected by the -British government, I have no doubt, for many reasons, which it strikes -me could be offered, but which, not failing immediately within the -purview of these observations on the fur trade of Louisiana, I shall -forbear to mention. - -As the Missouri forms only one of four large branches of the commerce -of this united, or as it is still called, the Northwest company, -they will have it in their power, not only to break down all single -adventurers on the Missouri, but in the course of a few years to effect -the same thing with a company of merchants of the United States, -who might enter into a competition with them in this single branch -of their trade. Nor is it probable that our merchants, knowing this -fact, will form a company for the purpose of carrying on this trade, -while they see the Northwest company permitted by our government -to trade on the Missouri, and on the west side of the Mississippi: -therefore, the Northwest company, on the present plan, having driven -the adventurers of small capitals from these portions of our territory, -will most probably never afterwards have a rival in any company of our -own merchants. By their continuance they will acquire strength, and -having secured the wished-for monopoly, they will then trade with the -Indians on their own terms; and being possessed of the trade, both on -the Mississippi and Missouri, they can make the price of their goods -in both quarters similar, and though they may be excessively high, yet -being the same they will run no risk of disaffecting the Indians by a -comparison of the prices at which they receive their goods at those -places. If then it appears, that the longer we extend the privilege to -the Northwest company of continuing their trade within our territory, -the difficulty of excluding them will increase: can we begin the -work of exclusion too soon? For my own part I see not the necessity -to admit, that our own merchants are not at this moment competent to -supply the Indians of the Missouri with such quantities of goods as -will, at least in the acceptation of the Indians themselves, be deemed -satisfactory and sufficient for their necessities. All their ideas -relative to their necessities are only comparative, and may be tested -by a scale of the quantities they have been in the habit of receiving. -Such a scale I transmitted to the government from fort Mandan. From -a regard to the happiness of the Indians, it would give me much -pleasure to see this scale liberally increased; yet I am clearly of -opinion, that this effect should be caused by the regular progression -of the trade of our own merchants, under the patronage and protection -of our own government. This will afford additional security to the -tranquillity of our much extended frontier, while it will give wealth -to our merchants. We know that the change of government in Louisiana, -from Spain to that of the United States, has withdrawn no part of -that capital formerly employed in the trade of the Missouri; the same -persons still remain, and continue to prosecute their trade. To these -there has been an accession of several enterprising American merchants, -and several others since my return have signified their intention -to embark in that trade, within the present year; and the whole of -those merchants are now unembarrassed by the exactions of Spanish -governors. Under those circumstances is it fair for us to presume that -the Indians are not now supplied by our own merchants, with quite as -large an amount in merchandise as they had been formerly accustomed to -receive? Should the quantity thus supplied not fully meet our wishes on -liberal views, towards the Indians, is it not sounder policy to wait -the certain progress of our own trade, than in order to supply this -momentary deficiency, to admit the aid of the Northwest company, at the -expense of the total loss of that trade; thereby giving them a carte -blanch on which to write in future their own terms of traffic with the -Indians, and thus throwing them into their hands, permit them to be -formed into a rod of iron, with which, for Great Britain, to scourge -our frontier at pleasure. - -If the British merchants were prohibited from trading in upper -Louisiana, the American merchants, with the aid of the profits arising -from the trade of the lower portion of the Missouri and the western -branches of the Mississippi, would be enabled most probably to become -the successful rivals of the Northwest company in the more distant -parts of the continent; to which we might look, in such case, with a -well-founded hope of enjoying great advantages from the fur trade; but -if this prohibition does not shortly take place, I will venture to -predict that no such attempts will ever be made, and, consequently, -that we shall for several generations be taxed with the defence of a -country, which to us would be no more than a barren waste. - -About the beginning of August last, two of the wintering partners of -the Northwest company, visited the Mandan and Minnetaree villages on -the Missouri, and fixed on a scite for a fortified establishment. This -project once carried into effect, we have no right to hope for the -trade of the upper portion of the Missouri, until our government shall -think proper to dislodge them. - -This season there has been sent up the Missouri, for the Indian trade, -more than treble the quantity of merchandise that has ever been -previously embarked in that trade at any one period. Of this quantity, -as far as I could judge from the best information I could collect, -two-thirds was the property of British merchants, and directly or -indirectly that of the Northwest company. Not any of this merchandise -was destined for a higher point on the Missouri than the mouth of the -Vermillion river, or the neighbourhood of the Yanktons of the river -Demoin; of course, there will be a greater excess of goods beyond what -the Indians can purchase, unless they sell at one-third their customary -price, which the American merchant certainly cannot do without -sacrificing his capital. - -On my return this fall, I met on the Missouri an American merchant by -the name of Robert McClellan, formerly a distinguished partisan in -the army under general Wayne: in a conversation with this gentleman, -I learned that during the last winter, in his trade with the Mahas, -he had a competitor by the name of Joseph La Croix (believed to be -employed by the Northwest company, but now is an avowed British -merchant)--that the prices at which La Croix sold his goods, compelled -him to reduce the rates of his own goods so much as to cause him to -sink upwards of two thousand dollars of his capital, in the course of -his trade, that season; but that as he had embarked in this trade for -two years past, and had formed a favourable acquaintance with the Mahas -and others, he should still continue it a few seasons more, even at a -loss of his time and capital, in the hope that government seeing the -error would correct it, and that he might then regain his losses, from -the circumstance of his general acquaintance with the Indians. - -I also met in my way to St. Louis, another merchant, by the same -name, a captain M’Clellan, formerly of the United States’ corps of -artillerists. This gentleman informed me that he was connected with one -of the principal houses in Baltimore, which I do not now recollect, -but can readily ascertain the name and standing of the firm, if it -is considered of any importance; he said he had brought with him a -small but well assorted adventure, calculated for the Indian trade, -by way of experiment; that the majority of his goods were of the fine -high-priced kind, calculated for the trade with the Spanish province -of New Mexico, which he intended to carry on within the territory of -the United States, near the border of that province; that connected -with this object, the house with which he was concerned was ready to -embark largely in the fur trade of the Missouri, provided it should -appear to him to offer advantages to them. That since he had arrived in -Louisiana, which was last autumn, he had endeavoured to inform himself -of the state of this trade, and that from his inquiries, he had been so -fully impressed with the disadvantages it laboured under from the free -admission of the British merchants, he had written to his house in -Baltimore, advising that they should not embark in this trade, unless -these merchants were prohibited from entering the river. - -I have mentioned these two as cases in point, and which have fallen -immediately under my own observation: the first shows the disadvantages -under which the trade of our own merchants is now actually labouring; -and the second, that no other merchants will probably engage in this -trade, while the British fur traders are permitted by our government -to continue their traffic in Upper Louisiana. With this view of the -subject, it is submitted to the government, with whom it alone rests to -decide whether the admission or non-admission of those merchants is at -this moment most expedient. - -The custom of giving credits to the Indians, which grew out of the -Spanish system, still exists, and agreeably to our present plan of -intercourse with these people, is likely to produce more pernicious -consequences than it did formerly. The Indians of the Missouri, who -have been in the habit of considering these credits rather as a -present, or the price of their permission for the trader to depart in -peace, still continue to view it in the same light, and will therefore -give up their expectations on that point with some reluctance; nor can -the merchants well refuse to acquiesce, while they are compelled to be -absent from the nations with which they trade five or six months in -the year. The Indians are yet too vicious to permit them in safety to -leave goods at their trading houses, during their absence, in the care -of one or two persons; the merchant, therefore, would rather suffer the -loss by giving the credit, than incur the expense of a competent guard, -or doubling the quantity of his engagees, for it requires as many men -to take the peltries and furs to market as it does to bring the goods -to the trading establishment, and the number usually employed are not -found at any time, more than sufficient to give a tolerable security -against the Indians. - -I presume that it will not be denied, that it is our best policy, and -will be our practice to admit, under the restrictions of our laws on -this subject, a fair competition among all our merchants in the Indian -trade. This being the case then, it will happen, as it has already -happened, that one merchant having trade with any nation, at the usual -season gives them a credit and departs: a second knowing that such -advance had been made, hurries his outfit and arrives at that nation, -perhaps a month earlier in the fall than the merchant who had made -this advance to the Indians: he immediately assembles the nation and -offers his goods in exchange for their redskin hunt; the good faith of -the Indians, with respect to the absent merchant, will not bind them -to refuse; an exchange, of course, takes place; and when the merchant -to whom they are indebted arrives, they have no peltry, either to -barter or to pay him for the goods which they have already received; -the consequences are, that the merchant who has sustained the loss -becomes frantic; he abuses the Indians, bestows on them the epithets -of liars and dogs, and says a thousand things only calculated to sour -their minds, and disaffect them to the whites: the rival trader he -accuses of having robbed him of his credits (for they never give this -species of artifice among themselves a milder term) and calls him many -opprobrious names; a combat frequently ensues, in which the principals -are not the only actors, for their men will, of course, sympathise with -their respective employers. The Indians are the spectators of those -riotous transactions, which are well calculated to give them a contempt -for the character of the whites, and to inspire them with a belief -of the importance of their peltries and furs. The British traders -have even gone further in the northwest, and even offered bribes to -induce the Indians to destroy each other; nor have I any reason to -doubt but what the same thing will happen on the Missouri, unless some -disinterested person, armed with authority by government, be placed in -such a situation as will enable him to prevent such controversies. -I look to this custom of extending credits to the Indians, as one of -the great causes of all those individual contentions, which will most -probably arise in the course of this trade, as well between the Indians -and whites, as between the whites themselves; and that our agents -and officers will be always harrassed with settling these disputes, -which they never can do in such a manner as to restore a perfect good -understanding between the parties. I think it would be best in the -outset, for the government to let it be understood by the merchants, -that if they think proper to extend credits to the Indians, it shall -be at their own risk, dependent on the good faith of the Indians -for voluntary payment; that the failure of the Indians to comply -with their contracts, shall not be considered any justification for -their maltreatment or holding abusive language to them, and that no -assistance shall be given them in any shape by the public functionaries -to aid them in collecting their credits. If the government interfere -in behalf of the traders by any regulation, then it will be the -interest of every trader individually to get the Indians indebted to -him, and to keep them so in order to secure in future their peltries -and furs exclusively to himself. Thus, the Indians would be compelled -to exchange without choice of either goods or their prices, and the -government would have pledged itself to make the Indians pay for goods, -of which they cannot regulate the prices. I presume the government will -not undertake to regulate the merchant in this respect by law. - -The difficulties which have arisen, and which must arise under existing -circumstances, may be readily corrected by establishing a few posts, -where there shall be a sufficient guard to protect the property of -the merchants in their absence, though it may be left with only a -single clerk: to those common marts, all traders and Indians should be -compelled to resort for the purposes of traffic. - -The plan proposed guards against all difficulties, and provides for -a fair exchange, without the necessity of credit: when the Indian -appears with his peltry and fur, the competition between the merchants -will always insure him his goods on the lowest possible terms, and the -exchange taking place at once, there can be no cause of controversy -between the Indian and the merchant, and no fear of loss on the part -of the latter, unless he is disposed to make a voluntary sacrifice, -through a spirit of competition with others, by selling his goods at an -under value. - -Some of the stipulations contained in the licenses usually granted our -Indian traders, are totally incompatible with the local situations, and -existing customs and habits of almost all the Indian nations in Upper -Louisiana. I allude more particularly to that clause in the license, -which compels them to trade at Indian towns only. It will be seen -by referrence to my statistical view of the Indian nations of Upper -Louisiana, that the great body of those people are roving bands, who -have no villages, or stationary residence. The next principal division -of them, embracing the Panias, Ottoes, Kanzas, &c. have not their -villages on the Missouri, and they even pass the greater portion of the -year at a distance from their villages, in the same roving manner. The -third, and only portion of those Indians, who can with propriety be -considered as possessed of such stationary villages as seems to have -been contemplated by this clause of the license, is confined to the -Ayaways, Sioux, and Foxes of the Mississippi, and the Ricaras, Mandans, -Minnetarees, and Ahwahaways of the Missouri. The consequence is, that -until some further provision be made, that all the traders who have -intercourse with any nations except those of the last class, will form -their establishments at the several points on the Missouri, where it -will be most convenient to meet the several nations with whom they wish -to carry on commerce. This is their practice at the present moment, -and their houses are scattered on various parts of the Missouri. In -this detached situation, it cannot be expected that they will comply -with any of the stipulations of their licenses. The superintendant of -St. Louis, distant eight hundred or a thousand miles, cannot learn -whether they have forfeited the penalty of their licenses or not; they -may, therefore, vend ardent spirits, compromit the government, or the -character of the whites, in the estimation of the Indians, or practice -any other crimes in relation to those people, without the fear of -detection or punishment. The government cannot with propriety, say to -those traders, that they shall trade at villages, when in reality they -do not exist; nor can they for a moment, I presume, think of incurring -the expense of sending an Indian agent with each trader, to see that he -commit no breach of the stipulations of his license. These traders must -of course be brought together, at some general points, where it will -be convenient for several nations to trade with them, and where they -can be placed under the eye of an Indian agent, whose duty it should -be to see that they comply with the regulations laid down for their -government. There are crimes which may be committed without a breach -of our present laws, and which make it necessary that some further -restrictions than those contained in the present licenses of our -traders, should either be added under penalties in those licenses, or -punished by way of a discretionary power, lodged in the superintendent, -extending to the exclusion of such individuals from the Indian trade. -Of this description I shall here enumerate three: - -First, That of holding conversations with the Indians, tending to -bring our government into disrepute among them, and to alienate their -affections from the same. - -Second, That of practising any means to induce the Indians to maltreat -or plunder other merchants. - -Third, That of stimulating or exciting by bribes or otherwise, any -nations or bands of Indians, to wage war against other nations or -bands; or against the citizens of the United States, or against -citizens or subjects of any power at peace with the same. - -These appear to me to be crimes fraught with more real evil to the -community and to the Indians themselves, than vending ardent spirits, -or visiting their hunting camps for the purpose of trade; yet there -are no powers vested in the superintendents, or agents of the United -States, to prevent their repeated commission; nor restrictions or fines -imposed by our laws, to punish such offences. - -It is well known to me that we have several persons engaged in the -trade of the Missouri, who have, within the last three years, been -adopted as citizens of the United States, and who are now hostile to -our government. It is not reasonable to expect, that such persons will -act with good faith towards us. Hence, the necessity of assigning -metes and bounds to their transactions among the Indians. On my way -to St. Louis, last fall, I received satisfactory evidence that a Mr. -Robideau, an inhabitant of St. Louis, had, the preceding winter, during -his intercourse with the Ottoes and Missouris, been guilty of the most -flagrant breaches of the first of those misdemeanors above mentioned. -On my arrival at St. Louis, I reported the case to Mr. Broom, the -acting superintendent, and recommended his prohibiting that person from -the trade of the Missouri, unless he would give satisfactory assurances -of a disposition to hold a different language to the Indians. Mr. Broom -informed me, that the laws and regulations of the United States on -this subject, gave him no such powers; and Mr. Robideau and sons still -prosecute their trade. - -The uncontrolled liberty which our citizens take of hunting on Indian -lands, has always been a source of serious difficulty, on every part of -our frontier, and is evidently destined to become quite as much so in -Upper Louisiana, unless it be restrained and limited within consistent -bounds. When the Indians have been taught, by commerce, duly to -appreciate the furs and peltries of their country, they feel excessive -chagrin at seeing the whites, by their superior skill in hunting, fast -diminishing those productions, to which they have been accustomed to -look as the only means of acquiring merchandise; and nine-tenths of -the causes of war are attributable to this practice. The Indians, -although well disposed to maintain a peace on any other terms, I am -convinced will never yield this point; nor do I consider it as of any -importance to us that they should; for with what consistency of precept -and practice can we say to the Indians, whom we wish to civilize, that -agriculture and the arts are more productive of ease, wealth, and -comfort, than the occupation of hunting, while they see distributed -over their forests a number of white men, engaged in the very -occupation which our doctrine would teach them to abandon. Under such -circumstances, it cannot be considered irrational in the Indians, to -conclude, that our recommendations to agriculture are interested, and -flow from a wish on our part to derive the whole emolument arising from -the peltries and furs of their country, by taking them to ourselves. - -These observations, however, are intended to apply only to such Indian -nations as have had, and still maintain a commercial intercourse with -the whites: such we may say are those inhabiting the western branches -of the Mississippi, the eastern branches of the Missouri, and near the -main body of the latter, as far up as the Mandans and Minnetarees. -Here it is, therefore, that it appears to me expedient we should draw -a line; and temporarily change our policy. I presume it is not less -the wish of our government, that the Indians on the extreme branches -of the Missouri to the west, and within the Rocky mountains, should -obtain supplies of merchandise equally with those more immediately in -their vicinity. To effect this, the government must either become the -merchant themselves, or present no obstacles to their citizens, which -may prevent their becoming so with those distant nations; but as the -former cannot be adopted (though I really think it would be best for -a time) then it becomes the more necessary to encourage the latter. -Policy further dictates such encouragement being given, in order to -contravene the machinations preparing by the Northwest company for -practice in that quarter. - -If the hunters are not permitted in those distant regions, the -merchants will not be at the expense of transporting their merchandise -thither, when they know that the natives do not possess the art of -taking the furs of their country. The use of the trap, by which those -furs are taken, is an art which must be learned before it can be -practised to advantage. If the American merchant does not adventure, -the field is at once abandoned to the Northwest company, who will -permit the hunter to go, and the merchant will most probably be with -him in the outset; the abundance of rich furs in that country, hold -out sufficient inducement for them to lose no time in pressing forward -their adventures. Thus those distant Indians will soon be supplied with -merchandise; and while they are taught the art of taking the furs of -their country, they will learn the value, and until they have learnt -its value, we shall run no risk of displeasing them by taking it. When -the period shall arrive that the distant nations shall have learned the -art of taking their furs, and know how to appreciate its value, then -the hunter becomes no longer absolutely necessary to the merchant, and -may be withdrawn; but in the outset, he seems to form a very necessary -link in that chain which is to unite these nations and ourselves in a -state of commercial intercourse. - -The liberty to our merchants of hunting, for the purpose of procuring -food, in ascending and descending the navigable water-courses, as -well as while stationary at their commercial posts, is a privilege -which should not be denied them; but as the unlimited extent of such -a privilege would produce much evil, it should certainly be looked on -as a subject of primary importance: it should, therefore, enter into -all those compacts which we may think proper to form with the Indians -in that country, and be so shaped as to leave them no solid grounds of -discontent. - -_The time to which licenses shall extend._ - -A view of the Indian character, so far as it is necessary it should be -known, for the purposes of governing them, or maintaining a friendly -commercial intercourse with them, may be comprised within the limits of -a few general remarks. - -The _love of gain_ is the Indians’ ruling passion, and the fear of -punishment must form the corrective; to this passion we are to ascribe -their inordinate thirst for the possession of merchandise, their -unwillingness to accede to any terms, or enter into any stipulations, -except such as appear to promise them commercial advantages, and the -want of good faith, which they always evince by not complying with any -regulations, which in practice do not produce to them those expected -or promised advantages. The native justice of the Indian mind, will -always give way to his impatience for the possession of the goods of -the defenceless merchant, and he will plunder him, unless prevented by -the fear of punishment; nor can punishment assume a more terrific shape -to them, than that of _withholding every description of merchandise -from them_. This species of punishment, while it is one of the most -efficient in governing the Indians, is certainly the most humane, -as it enforces a compliance with our will, without the necessity of -bloodshed. But in order to compass the exercise of this weapon, our -government must first provide the means of controlling their traders. -No government will be respected by the Indians until they are made to -feel the effects of its power, or see it practised on others; and the -surest guarantee of savage fidelity to any government, is a thorough -conviction in their minds that they do possess the power of punishing -promptly, every act of aggression, which they may commit on the persons -or property of their citizens. If both traders and Indians throughout -Upper Louisiana, were compelled to resort to regulated commercial -posts, then the trader would be less liable to be pillaged, and the -Indians deterred from practising aggression; for when the Indians -once become convinced, that in consequence of their having practised -violence upon the persons or property of the traders, that they have -been cut off from all intercourse with those posts, and that they -cannot resort to any other places to obtain merchandise, then they -will make any sacrifice to regain the privilege they had previously -enjoyed; and I am confident, that in order to regain our favour in -such cases, they would sacrifice any individual who may be the object -of our displeasure, even should he be their favourite chief; for their -thirst of merchandise is paramount to every other consideration; and -the leading individuals among them, well knowing this trait in the -character of their own people, will not venture to encourage or excite -aggressions on the whites, when they know they are themselves to become -the victims of its consequences. - -But if, on the other hand, these commercial establishments are not -general, and we suffer detached and insulated merchants, either -British or American, to exercise their own discretion, in setting -down where they may think proper, on the western branches of the -Mississippi, for the purposes of trading with the Indians; then, -although these commercial establishments may be so extended as to -embrace the Missouri, quite to the Mandans, still they will lose a -great part of their effects; because the roving bands of Tetons, and -the most dissolute of the Siouxs being denied the permission to trade -on the Missouri at any rate, would resort to those establishments -on the Mississippi, and thus become independent of the trade of the -Missouri, as they have hitherto been. To correct this, we have three -alternatives: First, to establish two commercial posts in this quarter. -Secondly, to prohibit all intercourse with the Sisitons, and other -bands of Siouxs, on the river St. Peter’s and the Raven’s-wing river, -informing those Indians that such prohibition has been the consequence -of the malconduct of the Tetons, and thus leave it to them to correct -them; or, Thirdly, to make an appeal to arms in order to correct the -Tetons ourselves. - -Impressed with a belief unalloyed with doubts, that the ardent wish -of our government has ever been to conciliate the esteem, and secure -the friendship of all the savage nations within their territory, by -the exercise of every consistent and pacific measure in their power, -applying those of coertion only in the last resort, I here proceed with -a due deference to their better judgment, to develop a scheme which has -suggested itself to my mind, as the most expedient that I can devise -for the successful consummation of their philanthropic views towards -those wretched people of America, as well as to secure to the citizens -of the United States, all those advantages, which ought of right -exclusively to accrue to them, from the possession of Upper Louisiana. - -The situation of the Indian trade on the Missouri and its waters, while -under the Spanish government. - -The exclusive permission to trade with nations. - -The giving by those exclusions, the right to individuals to furnish -supplies, which rendered the Indians independent of the government. - -The times of sending goods to the Indians, and of returning to St. -Louis--the necessity of giving credits; therefore the disadvantages of. - -The evils which grew out of the method pursued by the Spaniards, as -well to themselves as to the Indians. - -The independence of individuals of their own government. - -The dependence of the Indians on those individuals, and their -consequent contempt for the government, and for all other citizens whom -they plundered and murdered at pleasure. - -The present rapacity of the Indians, owing to this cause, aided also by -the system of giving credits to the Indians, which caused contentions -among the traders, which terminated by giving the Indians a contempt -for the character of whites. - -The permission to persons to hunt on Indian lands, productive of -many evils, the most frequent causes of war, hostile to the views of -civilizing, and of governing the Indians. - -The first principle of governing the Indians is to govern the -whites--the impossibility of doing this without establishments, and -some guards at the posts. - -The Sisitons may be made a check on the Tetons by withholding their -trade on the Mississippi. - -Having stated the several evils which flowed from the Spanish system, I -now state the Indian character, the evils which still exist, and what -they will probably terminate in, if not redressed--the plan recommended -to be pursued and the benefits which may be expected to result -therefrom, conclude thus, it may be pretty confidently believed that it -is not competent to produce the wished-for reform among the Indians. - -Hunters permitted in the Indian country pernicious--frequent cause of -war between us. - -Some of the stipulations of the licenses granted the traders, in -application to the state of the Indians on the Missouri, of course not -attended to. The incompetence of the Indian agents to see that any of -the stipulations are complied with. Whiskey, or ardent spirits may, -therefore, be introduced, and other corruptions practised without our -knowledge. There is not at present allowed by law to the superintendant -of Indian affairs, any discretionary powers, by which he can prohibit -our newly acquired citizens of Louisiana, who may be disaffected to -our government, from trading with the Indians: the law says, that any -citizen of the United States, who can give sufficient security for -the sum of five hundred dollars, for the faithful compliance with the -stipulation of his license, shall be permitted to trade. An instance -has happened in Mr. Robideau, &c. - -The preceding observations of captain Lewis, although left in an -unfinished state, are too important to be omitted. The premature death -of the author has prevented his filling up the able outline that he has -drawn. - -A summary statement of the rivers, creeks, and most remarkable -places, their distances from each other, &c. their distances from the -Mississippi, ascending the Missouri, across the Rocky mountains, and -down the Columbia to the Pacific ocean, as was explored in the years -1804, 5, and 6, by captains Lewis and Clarke. - - ------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+------------ - Names of remarkable places. |The width|Side on |Distances|Distances - |of rivers|which |from one |up the - |and |they are |place to |Missouri - |creeks in|situated.|another. |from the - |yards. | | |Mississippi. - ------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+------------ - | Yards | | Miles | Miles - To the village of St. Charles | | N.E. | 21 | 21 - | | | | - Osage-woman’s river | 30 | N.E. | 20 | 41 - | | | | - Charrette’s village and creek | 20 | N.E. | 27 | 68 - | | | | - Shepherd’s creek | | S.W. | 15 | 83 - | | | | - Gasconade river | 157 | S.W. | 17 | 100 - | | | | - Muddy river | 50 | N.E. | 15 | 115 - | | | | - Grand Osage river | 397 | S.W. | 18 | 133 - | | | | - Murrow creek | 20 | S.W. | 5 | 138 - | | | | - Cedar island and creek | 20 | N.E. | 7 | 145 - | | | | - Leadmine hill | | S.W. | 9 | 154 - | | | | - Manitou creek | 20 | S.E. | 8 | 162 - | | | | - Splitrock creek | 20 | N.E. | 8 | 170 - | | | | - Saline, or Salt river | 30 | S.E. | 3 | 173 - | | | | - Manitou river | 30 | N.E. | 9 | 182 - | | | | - Goodwoman’s river | 35 | N.E. | 9 | 191 - | | | | - Mine river | 70 | S.W. | 9 | 200 - | | | | - Arrow prairie | | S.W. | 6 | 206 - | | | | - Two Charleton rivers | 30/70 | N.E. | 14 | 220 - | | | | - Ancient village of the | | | | - Missouri nation, near which | | | | - place Fort Orleans stood | | N.E. | 16 | 236 - | | | | - Grand river | 90 | N.E. | 4 | 240 - | | | | - Snake creek | 18 | N.E. | 6 | 246 - | | | | - Ancient village of the Little | | | | - Osages | | S.W. | 10 | 256 - | | | | - Tigers’ island and creek | 25 | N.E. | 20 | 276 - | | | | - Hubert’s island and creek | | S.W. | 12 | 388 - | | | | - Fire-prairie creek | | S.W. | 12 | 300 - | | | | - Fort Point | | S.W. | 6 | 306 - | | | | - Haycabin creek | 20 | S.W. | 6 | 312 - | | | | - Coalbank | | S.W. | 9 | 321 - | | | | - Bluewater river | 30 | S.W. | 10 | 331 - | | | | - Kanzas river | 230 | S.W. | 9 | 340 - | | | | - Little river Platte | 60 | N.E. | 9 | 349 - | | | | - To the First old Kanzas | | | | - village | | S.W. | 28 | 377 - | | | | - Independence creek, a mile | | | | - below the second old Kanzas | | | | - village | | S.W. | 28 | 405 - | | | | - St. Michael’s prairie | | N.E. | 25 | 430 - | | | | - Nodawa river | 70 | N.E. | 20 | 450 - | | | | - Wolf, or Loup river | 60 | S.W. | 14 | 464 - | | | | - Big Nemaha river | 80 | S.W. | 16 | 480 - | | | | - Tarkio creek | 23 | N.E. | 3 | 483 - | | | | - Neeshnabatona river | 50 | N.E. | 25 | 508 - | | | | - Little Nemaha river | 48 | S.W. | 8 | 516 - | | | | - Baldpated prairie, the | | | | - Neeshnabatona within 150 | | | | - yards of the Missouri | | N.E. | 23 | 539 - | | | | - Weepingwater creek | 25 | S.W. | 29 | 568 - | | | | - River Platt, or Shoal river | 600 | S.W. | 32 | 600 - | | | | - Butterfly, or Papillon creek | 18 | S.W. | 3 | - | | | | - Musquetoe creek | 22 | N.E. | 7 | 610 - | | | | - Ancient village of the Ottoes | | S.W. | 11 | - | | | | - Ancient Ayaways village, | | | | - below a bluff, on the | | | | - northeast side | | N.E. | 6 | - | | | | - Bowyer’s river | 25 | N.E. | 11 | - | | | | - Council bluffs (establishment)| | S.W. | 12 | 650 - | | | | - Soldier’s river | 40 | N.E. | 39 | 689 - | | | | - Eaneahwaudepon, (Little Sioux | | | | - river) | 80 | N.E. | 44 | 733 - | | | | - Waucarde, or Badspirit creek | | S.W. | 55 | 788 - | | | | - Around a bend of the river to | | | | - the northeast, the gorge of | | | | - which is only 974 yards | | | 21 | 809 - | | | | - To an island, 3 miles | | | | - northeast of the Maha | | | | - village | | | 27 | 836 - | | | | - Floyd’s bluff and river | 35 | N.E. | 14 | 850 - | | | | - To the Big Sioux river | 110 | N.E. | 3 | 858 - | | | | - Commencement of the copperas, | | | | - cobalt, pirites, and alum | | | | - bluffs | | S.W. | 27 | 880 - | | | | - Hot, or Burning bluffs | | S.W. | 30 | 910 - | | | | - Whitestone river | 30 | N.E. | 8 | 918 - | | | | - Petit-arc, an old Maha | | | | - village, at the mouth of | | | | - Littlebow creek | 15 | S.W. | 20 | 938 - | | | | - River Jacques, or James’ | | | | - river | 90 | N.E. | 12 | 950 - | | | | - Calumet bluff (mineral) | | S.W. | 10 | 960 - | | | | - Ancient fortification, | | | | - Goodman’s island | | S.W. | 16 | 976 - | | | | - To Plum creek | 12 | N.E. | 10 | 986 - | | | | - Whitepoint creek | 28 | S.W. | 8 | 994 - | | | | - Quicourre | 152 | S.W. | 6 | 1000 - | | | | - To the Poncar river and | | | | - village | 30 | S.W. | 10 | 1010 - | | | | - To the dome and village of | | | | - the burrowing squirrels | | S.W. | 20 | 1030 - | | | | - Island of cedars | | | 45 | 1075 - | | | | - To White river | 300 | S.W. | 55 | 1130 - | | | | - To the Three rivers of the | | | | - Sioux pass | 35 | N.E. | 22 | 1152 - | | | | - An island in the commencement | | | | - of the Big bend | | N.E. | 20 | 1172 - | | | | - The upper part of the Big | | | | - bend, the gorge of which is | | | | - 1¼ miles | | S.W. | 30 | 1202 - | | | | - To Tylor’s river | 35 | S.W. | 6 | 1208 - | | | | - Loisel’s fort on Cedar island | | S.W. | 18 | 1226 - | | | | - Teton river | 70 | S.W. | 37 | 1263 - | | | | - The upper of five old Ricara | | | | - villages, reduced by the | | | | - Sioux, and abandoned | | S.W. | 42 | 1305 - | | | | - To Chayenne river | 400 | S.W. | 5 | 1310 - | | | | - An old Ricara village on | | | | - Lahoocat’s island | | | 47 | 1357 - | | | | - Sarwarkarna river | 90 | S.W. | 40 | 1397 - | | | | - Wetarhoo river | 120 | S.W. | 25 | 1422 - | | | | - The first Ricaras villages on | | | | - an island | | S.W. | 4 | - | | | | - Second Ricaras three villages | | S.W. | 4 | 1430 - | | | | - Stone-idol creek | 18 | N.E. | 18 | - | | | | - Warreconne river | 35 | N.E. | 40 | 1488 - | | | | - Cannonball river | 140 | S.W. | 12 | 1500 - | | | | - Chesschetar river, near six | | | | - old Mandan villages | 38 | S.W. | 40 | 1540 - | | | | - Old Ricara and Mandan villages| | S.W. | 40 | 1580 - | | | | - To Fort Mandan (wintering | | | | - post of 1804) | | N.E. | 20 | 1600 - | | | | - The Mandan villages on each | | | | - side | | | 4 | 1604 - | | | | - To Knife river, on which the | | | | - two Minnetaree and Maha | | | | - villages are situated near | | | | - the mouth | 80 | S.W. | 2 | 1606 - | | | | - The Island | | | 11 | - | | | | - Miry river | 10 | N.E. | 16 | 1633 - | | | | - Island in the Little basin | | | 28 | - | | | | - Little Missouri river | 134 | S.W. | 29 | 1690 - | | | | - Wild-onion creek | 16 | N.E. | 12 | - | | | | - Goose-egg lake | 300 | N.E. | 9 | - | | | | - Chaboneau’s creek | 20 | S.W. | 16 | 1727 - | | | | - Goatpen creek, Mouse river, | | | | - waters of lake Winnipec | | | | - near the Missouri | 20 | N.E. | 16 | 1743 - | | | | - To Hall’s, strand, lake, and | | | | - creek | | N.E. | 47 | 1790 - | | | | - White-earth river | 60 | N.E. | 40 | 1840 - | | | | - Rochejaune, or Yellowstone | | | | - river | 858 | S.W. | 40 | 1880 - | | | | - To Martha’s river | 50 | N.E. | 60 | 1940 - | | | | - Porcupine river | 112 | N.E. | 50 | 1990 - | | | | - To the Littledry creek | 25 | S.W. | 40 | 2030 - | | | | - Bigdry creek | 100 | S.W. | 9 | - | | | | - Littledry river | 200 | S.W. | 6 | 2045 - | | | | - Gulf in the Island bend | | | 32 | - | | | | - To Milk river | 150 | N.E. | 13 | 2090 - | | | | - Bigdry river | 400 | S.W. | 25 | - | | | | - Werner’s run | 10 | N.E. | 9 | - | | | | - Pine creek | 20 | N.E. | 36 | 2160 - | | | | - Gibson’s river | 35 | N.E. | 17 | 2177 - | | | | - Brownbear-defeated creek | 40 | S.W. | 12 | - | | | | - Bratton’s river | 100 | N.E. | 24 | 2213 - | | | | - Burntlodge creek | 50 | S.W. | 6 | - | | | | - Wiser’s creek | 40 | N.E. | 14 | 2233 - | | | | - Muscleshell river | 110 | S.W. | 37 | 2270 - | | | | - Grouse creek | 20 | N.E. | 30 | - | | | | - North-mountain creek | 30 | N.E. | 36 | 2336 - | | | | - South-mountain creek | 30 | S.W. | 18 | 2354 - | | | | - Ibex island | | | 15 | - | | | | - Goodrich’s island | | | 9 | 2378 - | | | | - Windsor’s creek | 30 | N.E. | 7 | 2385 - | | | | - Elk rapid (swift water) | | | 15 | 2400 - | | | | - Thomson’s creek | 28 | N.E. | 27½ | 2427½ - | | | | - Judith’s river | 100 | S.W. | 11½ | 2439 - | | | | - Ash rapid (swift water) | | | 4 | - | | | | - Slaughter river | 40 | S.W. | 11 | 2454 - | | | | - Stonewall creek, above the | | | | - natural walls | 30 | N.E. | 26 | 2480 - | | | | - Maria’s river | 186 | N.E. | 41 | 2521 - | | | | - Snow river | 50 | S.W. | 19 | - | | | | - Shields’s river | 35 | S.W. | 28 | 2568 - | | | | - The foot of the entrance of | | | | - Portage river, five miles | | | | - below the Great falls | 45 | S.W. | 7 | 2575 - -Leaving the Missouri below the falls, and passing by land to the -navigable waters of the Columbia river. - - ------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+------------ - Names of remarkable places. |Width of |Distance |Distance |Distance - |the |from one |from the |from the - |rivers |place to |falls of |Mississippi. - |and |another. |the | - |creeks. | |Missouri.| - ------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+------------ - | Yards. | Miles. | Miles. | Miles. - To the entrance of Medicine | | | | - river | 137 | 18 | 18 | 2593 - | | | | - Fort Mountain, passing through| | | | - the plain between Medicine | | | | - river and the Missouri, | | | | - near the Missouri | | 15 | 33 | 2603 - | | | | - Rocky mountains, to a gap on | | | | - the ridge, which divides | | | | - the waters of the Missouri | | | | - from those of the Columbia | | | | - passing the north part of | | | | - a mountain and crossing | | | | - Dearborn’s river | | 35 | 68 | 2643 - | | | | - Fork of Cohahlarishkit river | | | | - from the north, passed four | | | | - creeks from the north | 45 | 40 | 108 | 2683 - | | | | - To Seaman’s creek from the | | | | - north | 20 | 7 | 115 | - | | | | - Werner’s creek from the north | 35 | 10 | 125 | 2700 - | | | | - The east fork of Clarke’s | | | | - river, at the entrance of | | | | - Cohahlarishkit | 120 | 30 | 155 | 3730 - | | | | - To Clarke’s river, below the | | | | - forks | 150 | 12 | 167 | 2742 - | | | | - Traveller’s-rest creek, on | | | | - the west side of Clarke’s | | | | - river, about the forks | 25 | 5 | 172 | 2747 - | | | | - The Forks of Traveller’s-rest | | | | - creek, at a right hand road | | 18 | 190 | - | | | | - Hot springs on the creek | | 13 | 203 | 2778 - | | | | - Quamash glades, passing the | | | | - head of the creek to a | | | | - branch of Kooskooskee river | | 7 | 210 | - | | | | - North branch of Kooskooskee | | | | - river, a left-hand road | | | | - leads off at five miles | | 7 | 217 | - | | | | - Junction of the roads on the | | | | - top of a snowy mountain, | | | | - the left-hand road, passing | | | | - by a fishery | | 10 | 227 | 2802 - | | | | - Hungry creek from the right, | | | | - passing on a dividing | | | | - mountain, covered with deep | | | | - snow, except on two places, | | | | - which are open, with a | | | | - southern exposure at 8 and | | | | - 36 miles | | 54 | 281 | 2856 - | | | | - To a Glade upon Hungry creek | | 6 | 287 | - | | | | - Glade upon a small branch of | | | | - do. | | 8 | 295 | - | | | | - Glade upon Fish creek | 10 | 9 | 304 | - | | | | - To Collins’s creek | 25 | 13 | 317 | - | | | | - Quamash flats | | 11 | 328 | 2903 - | | | | - Kooskooskee, or Flathead’s | | | | - river, in a pine country | 120 | 12 | 340 | 2915 - - NOTE. In passing from the falls of the Missouri, across the - Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, you - have two hundred miles of good road, one hundred and forty - miles of high, steep, rugged mountains, sixty miles of which is - covered from two to eight feet deep with snow in the last of - June. - - -----------------------------+-------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - Remarkable places |Width |The side|Distance|Distance|Distance - descending the Columbia. |of the |on which|from one|descend-|from the - |rivers |they are|place to|ing the |Missis- - |and |situat- |another.|Colum- |sippi. - |creeks.|ed. | |bia. | - -----------------------------+-------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - |Yards. | Side. | Miles. | Miles. | Miles. - To the entrance of Rockdam | | | | | - creek | 20 | N. | 8 | 8 | 2923 - | | | | | - Chopunnish river | 120 | N. | 5 | 13 | 2928 - | | | | | - Colter’s creek | 35 | N. | 37 | 50 | 2978 - | | | | | - Lewis’s river, at the | | | | | - entrance of the | | | | | - Kooskooskee river | 200 | S. | 23 | 73 | 2988 - | | | | | - The Sweathouse village and | | | | | - run | | S. | 7 | 80 | - | | | | | - Pilot’s village | | N. | 11 | 91 | 3005 - | | | | | - Kemooenim creek | 20 | S. | 48 | 139 | - | | | | | - Drewyer’s river, below the | | | | | - narrows of Lewis’s river | 30 | N. | 5 | 144 | 3059 - | | | | | - Cave rapid | | | 28 | 172 | - | | | | | - Basin rapid (bad) | | | 34 | 206 | 3121 - | | | | | - Discharge rapid (bad) | | | 14 | 220 | 3135 - | | | | | - The Columbia at the mouth | | | | | - of Lewis’s river, from | | | | | - the east | | S.E. | 7 | 227 | 3142 - | | | | | - Wollawollah river, passed | | | | | - eleven large mat lodges | | | | | - of that nation | 40 | S.E. | 16 | 243 | 3158 - | | | | | - Muscleshell rapid (bad) | | | | | - passed thirty-three mat | | | | | - lodges of the | | | | | - Wollawollahs | | | 25 | 268 | 3183 - | | | | | - Pelican rapid, passed | | | | | - forty-eight lodges of | | | | | - the Pishquitpahs nation | | N. | 22 | 290 | 3205 - | | | | | - Twenty-one lodges of the | | | | | - Wahowpum nation, residing | | | | | - on three islands, at the | | | | | - commencement of the high | | | | | - country | | N. | 18 | 308 | 3223 - | | | | | - To eight lodges of the | | | | | - Wahowpums at Short rapid | | N. | 27 | 335 | 3250 - | | | | | - The Rocky rapid, nine lodges | | | | | - of the same nation | | N. | 13 | 348 | 3263 - | | | | | - The river La Page (bad rapid)| 40 | S. | 9 | 357 | 3272 - | | | | | - Twenty seven lodges of the | | | | | - Eneshure nation, at | | | | | - Fishstack rapid | | N. | 10 | 367 | 3282 - | | | | | - Towahnahiooks river | 180 | S. | 8 | 375 | 3290 - | | | | | - The Great falls of the | | | | | - Columbia river of 57 feet | | | | | - 8 inches, near which there | | | | | - are forty mat lodges of | | | | | - the Eneshure nation | | N. | 4 | 379 | 3294 - | | | | | - The Short narrows, 45 yards | | | | | - wide | | | 2 | 381 | 3296 - | | | | | - Skilloot village of | | | | | - twenty-one large wood | | | | | - houses, at the long | | | | | - narrows, from 50 to 100 | | | | | - yards wide | | N. | 4 | 385 | 3300 - | | | | | - Chilluckittequaw village of | | | | | - eight large wood houses | | N. | 14 | 390 | 3314 - | | | | | - Cataract river, a few miles | | | | | - below a village of seven | | | | | - houses, and immediately | | | | | - above one of eleven houses | | | | | - of the Chilluckittequaw | | | | | - nation | 60 | N. | 10 | 409 | 3324 - | | | | | - Sepulchre rock, opposite to | | | | | - a village of houses of | | | | | - Chilluckittequaws | | N. | 4 | 413 | 3328 - | | | | | - River Labiche, opposite to | | | | | - twenty-six houses of the | | | | | - Smackshop nation, houses | | | | | - scattered on the north side| 46 | S. | 9 | 422 | 3337 - | | | | | - Little Lake creek, three | | | | | - houses of the Smackshop | | | | | - nation | 28 | N. | 10 | 432 | 3347 - | | | | | - Cruzatte’s river | 60 | N. | 12 | 444 | 3359 - | | | | | - The Grand rapid, just below | | | | | - the village of the Yehah | | | | | - tribe of the Shahala nation| | | | | - of fourteen wood houses | | N. | 6 | 450 | 3365 - | | | | | - Clahelellah village of the | | | | | - Shahala nation, near the | | | | | - foot of the rapids; seven | | | | | - houses | | N. | 6 | 456 | 3371 - | | | | | - Wabetellah village of | | | | | - the Shahala nation, | | | | | - twenty-three houses, just | | | | | - below the entrance of the | | | | | - Beacon-rock creek | | N. | 6 | 162 | 3377 - | | | | | - _Tide water._ | | | | | - | | | | | - Phoca rock in the river, | | | | | - sixty-feet above water | | | 11 | 473 | 3388 - | | | | | - To Quicksand river | 120 | S. | 9 | 482 | 3397 - | | | | | - Seal river | 80 | N. | 3 | 485 | - | | | | | - Neechaokee village, opposite | | | | | - to the Diamond island | | S. | 4 | 489 | - | | | | | - Shahala village of | | | | | - twenty-five temporary | | | | | - houses | | S. | 12 | 501 | 3416 - | | | | | - Multnomah river | 500 | S. | 14 | 515 | 3430 - | | | | | - Multnomah village | | S. | 6 | 521 | - | | | | | - Quathlahpotle village | | N. | 8 | 529 | - | | | | | - Tahwahnahiooks river | 200 | N. | 1 | 530 | 3445 - | | | | | - Cathlahaws creek and village | 18 | N. | 10 | 540 | 3455 - | | | | | - Lower extremity of Elallah | | | | | - or Deer island | | S. | 6 | 546 | - | | | | | - Coweliskee river, about the | | | | | - entrance, and up this river| | | | | - the Skilloot nation reside | 150 | N. | 13 | 559 | 3474 - | | | | | - Fanny’s island | | S. | 16 | 577 | 3490 - | | | | | - The Sea-otter island | | | 12 | 587 | 3502 - | | | | | - The upper village of the | | | | | - Wahkiacum nation | | N. | 6 | 593 | 3508 - | | | | | - The Cathlamahs village of | | | | | - nine large wood houses, S. | | | | | - of Seal islands | | S. | 14 | 607 | 3522 - | | | | | - Point William, opposite | | | | | - Shallow bay | | S. | 10 | 617 | 3532 - | | | | | - Point Meriwether, above | | | | | - Meriwether’s bay | | S. | 9 | 626 | 3541 - | | | | | - Clatsop village, below | | | | | - Meriwether’s bay, and | | | | | - seven miles northwest of | | | | | - Fort Clatsop | | S. | 8 | 634 | 3549 - | | | | | - Point Adams, at the entrance | | | | | - of the Columbia into the | | | | | - Pacific ocean, or Great | | | | | - South Sea, in latitude | | | | | - 46° 15´ north, and | | | | | - longitude 124° 57´ west | | | | | - from Greenwich | | S. | 6 | 640 | 3555 - - NOTE. Fort Clatsop is situated on the west side of, and three - miles up the Netui river from Meriwether bay, and seven miles - east from the nearest part of the seacoast;--at this fort - captain M. Lewis, and captain W. Clarke, passed the winter of - 1805 and 1806. - -The road by which we went out by the way of the Missouri to its head is -3096 miles, thence by land, by way of Lewis’s river over to Clarke’s -river, and down that to the entrance of Traveller’s-rest creek, where -all the roads from different routes meet, then across the rugged part -of the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, 398 -miles; thence down the river 640 miles, to the Pacific ocean; making -a total distance of 4134 miles. On our return in 1806, we came from -Traveller’s-rest creek directly to the falls of the Missouri river, -which shortens the distance about 579 miles, and is a much better -route, reducing the distance from the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean -to 3555 miles. 2575 miles of this distance is up the Missouri to the -falls of that river; thence passing through the plains, and across the -Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Kooskooskee river, a -branch of the Columbia, 340 miles; 200 miles of which is a good road, -140 miles over a tremendous mountain, steep and broken, 60 miles of -which is covered several feet deep with snow, on which we passed the -last of June: from the navigable part of the Kooskooskee we descended -that rapid river 75 miles to its entrance into Lewis’s river, and -down that river 154 miles to the Columbia, and thence 413 miles to -its entrance into the Pacific ocean. About 180 miles of this distance -is tide-water. We passed several bad rapids and narrows, and one -considerable fall, 268 miles above the entrance of this river, of 37 -feet 8 inches.--The total distance descending the Columbian waters 640 -miles, making a total of 3555 miles, on the most direct route from the -Mississippi, at the mouth of the Missouri, to the Pacific ocean. - -ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. - - ------------------------------------------------------+-------+-------- - |Number | - Names of Indian nations and their places of |of |Probable - general residence. |houses | number - |or | of - |lodges.| souls. - ------------------------------------------------------+-------+-------- - 1. Shoshonee nation resides in spring and summer on | | - the west fork of Lewis’s river, a branch of the | | - Columbia, and in winter and fall on the Missouri | 60 | 800 - | | - 2. Ootlashoot tribe of the Tushshepah nation reside | | - in spring and summer in the Rocky mountains | | - on Clarke’s river, and winter and fall on the | | - Missouri and its waters | 33 | 400 - | | - 3. Chopunnish nation, residing on the Kooskooskee | | - river, below the forks, and on Colter’s creek, | | - and who sometimes pass over to the Missouri | 33 | 2000 - | | - 4. Pelloatpallah band of Chopunnish reside on the | | - Kooskooskee, above the forks, and on the small | | - streams which fall into that river, west of the | | - Rocky mountains and Chopunnish river, and | | - sometimes pass over to the Missouri | 33 | 1600 - | | - 5. Kimooenim band of Chopunnish nation reside on | | - Lewis’s river, above the entrance of the | | - Kooskooskee, as high up that river as the forks | 33 | 800 - | | - 6. Yeletpo band of Chopunnish reside under the | | - southwest mountains, on a small river which falls | | - into Lewis’s river, above the entrance of the | | - Kooskooskee, which they call Weaucum | 33 | 250 - | | - 7. Willewah band of Chopunnish reside on a river of | | - the same name, which discharges itself into | | - Lewis’s river on the southwest side, below the | | - forks of that river | 33 | 500 - | | - 8. Soyennom band of Chopunnish on the north side of | | - the east fork of Lewis’s river, from its junction | | - to the Rocky mountains, and on Lamaltar creek | 33 | 400 - | | - 9. Chopunnish of Lewis’s river, below the entrance | | - of the Kooskooskee, on either side of that river | | - to its junction with the Columbia | 40 | 2300 - | | - 10. Sokulk nation reside on the Columbia, above the | | - entrance of Lewis’s river, as high up as the | | - entrance of Clarke’s river | 120 | 2400 - | | - 11. Chimnahpum reside on the northwest side of the | | - Columbia, both above and below the entrance of | | - Lewis’s river, and on the Tapteel river, which | | - falls into the Columbia 15 miles above Lewis’s | | - river | 42 | 1860 - | | - 12. Wollawollah nation on both sides of the Columbia | | - from the entrance of Lewis’s river, as low as the | | - Muscleshell rapid, and in winter pass over to the | | - Tapteel river | 46 | 1600 - | | - 13. Pishquitpahs nation resides on the Muscleshell | | - rapid, and on the north side of the Columbia to | | - the commencement of the high country; this nation | | - winter on the waters of the Tapteel river | 71 | 2600 - | | - 14. Wahowpum nation resides on the north branch | | - of the Columbia, in different bands from the | | - Pishquitpahs, as low as the river Lapage; the | | - different bands of this nation winter on the | | - waters of Tapteel and Cataract rivers | 33 | 700 - | | - 15. Eneshure nation resides at the upper part of | | - the Great narrows of the Columbia on either | | - side--are stationary | 41 | 1200 - | | - 16. Eskeloot nation resides at the upper part of the | | - Great narrows of the Columbia; on the north side | | - is the great mart for all the country | 21 | 1000 - | | - 17. Chilluckittequaw nation residing next below the | | - narrows, and extending down on the north side of | | - the Columbia to the river Labiche | 32 | 1400 - | | - 18. Smockshop band of Chilluckittequaws resides on | | - the Columbia, on each side of the entrance of the | | - river Labiche to the neighbourhood of the great | | - rapids of that river | 24 | 800 - | | - 19. Shahala nation resides at the grand rapids of the | | - Columbia, and extends down in different villages | | - as low as the Multnomah river, consisting of the | | - following tribes: viz. Yehuh, above the rapids, | | - Clahclellah, below the rapid, the Wahelellah, | | - below all the rapids, and the Neerchokioon (1 | | - house 100 lodges) on the south side, a few miles | | - above the Multnomah river | 62 | 2800 - | | - 20. _Wappatoo Indians_. | | - | | - Nechacokee tribe resides on the south side of the | | - Columbia, a few miles below Quicksand river, and | | - opposite the Diamond island | 1 | 100 - | | - Shoto tribe reside on the north side of the | | - Columbia, back of a pond, and nearly opposite the | | - entrance of the Multnomah river | 8 | 460 - | | - Multnomah tribe resides on Wappatoo island, in | | - the mouth of the Multnomah, the remains of a | | - large nation | 6 | 800 - | | - Clannahqueh tribe of Multnomah resides on | | - Wappatoo island, below the Multnomahs | 4 | 130 - | | - Nemalquinner tribe of Multnomahs reside on the | | - northeast side of the Multnomah river, three | | - miles above its mouth | 4 | 200 - | | - Cathlaconimatups, a tribe of Multnomahs, reside | | - on the south side of the Wappatoo island on a | | - spur of the Multnomah | 3 | 170 - | | - Cathlanaquiahs, a tribe of Multnomahs, reside on | | - the southwest side of Wappatoo island | 6 | 400 - | | - Clackstar nation reside on a small river, which | | - discharges itself on the southwest side of | | - Wappatoo island | 28 | 1200 - | | - Claninnatas resides on the southwest side of | | - Wappatoo island | 5 | 200 - | | - Cathlacumups reside on the main shore, southwest | | - of Wappatoo island | 6 | 450 - | | - Clannarminnamuns reside on the southwest side | | - of the Wappatoo island | 12 | 280 - | | - Quathlahpohtle nation reside on the southwest | | - side of the Columbia, above the entrance of | | - Tahwahnahiooks river, opposite the lower point of | | - Wappatoo island | 14 | 900 - | | - Cathlamahs reside on a creek which falls into the | | - Columbia on the north side, at the lower part of | | - the Columbian valley, north side | 10 | 200 - | | - 21. Skilloot nation resides on the Columbia, on each | | - side in different villages, from the lower part | | - of the Columbian valley as low as Sturgeon | | - island, on either side of the Coweliskee river | 50 | 2500 - | | - Hullooellell reside on the Coweliskee | | - | | - 22. Wahkiacums reside on the north side of the | | - Columbia, opposite the Marshy islands | 11 | 200 - | | - 23. Cathlamahs reside on the south side of the | | - Columbia, opposite to the Seal islands | 9 | 300 - | | - 24. Chinnooks reside on the north side of the | | - Columbia, at the entrance of, and on Chinnook | | - river | 28 | 400 - | | - 25. Clatsop nation resides on the south side of the | | - Columbia, and a few miles along the southeast | | - coast, on both sides of point Adams | 14 | 200 - | | - 26. Killamucks nation resides from the Clatsops of | | - the coast along the southeast coast for many | | - miles | 50 | 1000 - | | - _Indian information: The following nations speak | | - the Killamuck language_: | | - | | - 27. Lucktons reside on the seacoast to the southwest | | - of the Killamucks | | 20 - | | - Kahuncles reside on the seacoast southwest of the | | - Lucktons | | 400 - | | - Lukawis do. do. to the S.S.E. large town | | 800 - | | - Youikcones do. do. do. large houses| | 700 - | | - Neeketoos do. do. do. large town | | 700 - | | - Ulseahs do. do. do. small town | | 150 - | | - Youitts do. do. do. do. | | 150 - | | - Sheastuckles reside on the seacoast to the | | - southeast of the Lucktons large town | | 900 - | | - Killawats do. do. do. do. | | 500 - | | - 28. Cookkoo-oose nation reside on the seacoast, to | | - the south of the Killawats | | 1500 - | | - Shallalah nation reside on the same course to the | | - south | | 1200 - | | - Luckkarso nation do. do. do. | | 1200 - | | - Hannakallal nation do. do. do. | | 600 - | | - _Indians along the N. W. coast._ | | - | | - 29. Killaxthocles tribe reside on the seacoast, from | | - the Chinnooks to the N. N. W. | 8 | 100 - | | - Chiltz nation reside from the Killaxthokles along | | - the N. N. W. coast | 38 | 700 - | | - Clamoctomichs reside from the Chiltz along the | | - N. N. W. coast | 12 | 260 - | | - Potoashs reside on the same coast northwestwardly | | - of the Clamoctomichs | 10 | 200 - | | - Pailsh tribe reside from the Potoash on the | | - northwest coast | 10 | 200 - | | - Quiniilts reside from the Pailsh along the | | - northwest coast | 60 | 1000 - | | - Quieetsos reside from the Quiniilts along the | | - northwest coast | 18 | 250 - | | - Chillates reside from the Quieetsos along the | | - northwest coast | 8 | 150 - | | - Calasthocle reside from the Chillate northwest | | - along the same coast | 10 | 200 - | | - Quinnechart nation reside on the seacoast and | | - creek, north and northwest of the Calasthocles | | 2000 - | | - 30. Clarkamus nation reside on a large river of the | | - same name, which heads in Mount Jefferson, and | | - discharges itself into the Multnomah, forty miles | | - up that river on its northeast side; this nation | | - has several villages on either side | | 1800 - | | - 31. Cushooks nation reside on the northeast bank of | | - the Multnomah, immediately below the falls of | | - that river, about sixty miles above its entrance | | - into the Columbia | | 650 - | | - 32. Charcowah nation reside on the southwest bank | | - of the Multnomah, immediately above the falls; | | - they take the salmon in that river | | 200 - | | - 33. Callahpoewah nation inhabit the country on both | | - sides of the Multnomah, above the Charcowahs | | - for a great extent | | 2000 - | | - 34. Shoshonee (or Snake Indians) residing in winter | | - and fall on the Multomah river, southwardly of | | - the southwest mountains, and in spring and summer | | - on the heads of the Towanahiooks, La Page, | | - Yaumalolam, and Wollawollah rivers, and more | | - abundantly at the falls of the Towanahiooks, for | | - the purpose of fishing | | 3000 - | | - 35. Shoshonees on the Multnomah and its waters; | | - the residence of them is not well known to us, or | | - the Indians of the Columbia | | 6000 - | | - 36. Shobarboobeer band of Shoshonees reside on the | | - southwest side of the Multnomah river, high up | | - the said river | | 1600 - | | - 37. Shoshonees residing on the south fork of Lewis’s | | - river, and on the Nemo, Walshlemo, Shallette, | | - Shushpellanimmo, Shecomshink, Timmoonumlarwas, | | - and the Copcoppakark rivers, branches of the | | - south fork of Lewis’s river | | 3000 - | | - _We saw parts of the following tribes at the Long | | - narrows_: | | - | | - 38. Skaddals nation reside on Cataract river, | | - twenty-five miles north of the Big narrows | | 200 - | | - Squannaroos reside on Cataract river, below the | | - Skaddals | | 120 - | | - Shallattoos reside on Cataract river, above them | | 100 - | | - Shanwappoms reside on the heads of Cataract and | | - Tapteel rivers | | 400 - | | - 39. Cutsahnim nation reside on both sides of the | | - Columbia, above the Sokulks, and on the northern | | - branches of the Tapteel river, and also on the | | - Wahnaachee river | 60 | 1200 - | | - Lahanna nation reside on both sides of the | | - Columbia, above the entrance of Clarke’s river | 120 | 2000 - | | - Coospellar nation reside on a river which falls | | - into the Columbia, to the north of Clarke’s river | 30 | 1600 - | | - Wheelpo nation reside on both sides of Clarke’s | | - river, from the entrance of Lastaw to the great | | - falls of Clarke’s river | 130 | 2500 - | | - Hihighenimmo nation reside from the entrance of | | - the Lastaw into Clarke’s river, on both sides of | | - the Lastaw, as high as the forks | 45 | 1300 - | | - Lartielo nation reside at the falls of the Lastaw | | - river, below the great Wayton lake, on both sides | | - of the river | 30 | 600 - | | - Skeetsomish nation resides on a small river of | | - the same name, which discharges itself into the | | - Lastaw, below the falls, around the Wayton lake, | | - and on two islands within the said lake | 12 | 2000 - | | - Micksucksealton tribe of the Tushshepah reside | | - on Clarke’s river, above the great falls of that | | - river, in the Rocky mountains | 25 | 300 - | | - Hohilpos, a tribe of the Tushshepah reside on | | - Clarke’s river, above the Micksucksealtons, in | | - the Rocky mountains. | 25 | 300 - | | - Tushshepahs nation reside on a north fork of | | - Clarke’s river in spring and summer, and the fall | | - and winter on the Missouri. The Ootlashoots is | | - a band of this nation. | 35 | 430 - +-------+------ - - Whole number of Indians W. of Rocky Mountains, 80,000 - -Thermometrical observations, showing also the rise and fall of the -Mississippi (Missouri); appearances of weather, winds, &c. commencing -at the mouth of the river. - -Duboes in latitude 38° 55´ 19´´ ⁶/₁₀ north, and longitude 89° 57´ 45´´ -west, January 1, 1804. - -Thermometer on the north side of a tree in the woods. - -_Explanations of the notations of the weather._ - - f means fair weather. - - c means cloudy. - - r means rain. - - s means snow. - - h means hail. - - t means thunder. - - l means lightning. - - a after, as f a r means fair after rain, which has intervened - since the last observation. - - c a s means cloudy after snow intervening. - - c a r s means cloudy after rain and snow. - -_Notations of the river._ - - r means risen in the last 24 hours, ending at sunrise. - - f means fallen in the last 24 hours, ending at sunrise. - -_Notations of thermometer._ - - _a_ means above naught. - - _b_ means below naught. - - -------+-------+--------+---------+-------+----------+--------+--------- - | | | | | | | River - | | | | | | +--+--+--- - Day of |Therm. | | |Therm. | | |r.|F | I - the | at |Weather.| Wind. | at | Weather. | Wind. | |e | n - month. |sunrise. | | four | | |a |e | c - | | | |o’clock. | |n |t.| h - | | | | | | |d | | e - | | | | | | | | | s. - | | | | | | |f.| | - -------+-------+--------+---------+-------+----------+--------+--+--+--- - 1804. | Deg. | | | Deg. | | | | | - Jan. 1| | c. | | | c. | | | | - 2| | c.a.s. | | | c. | | | | - 3| | | | 2½ a.| f. |N.W.byW.| | | - 4| 11 a.| f. | W. | | | W. | | | - 5| | f. | W. | | f. | W. | | | - 6| | f. | N.W.W. | 30 a.| f. | N.W.W. | | | - 7| | h. | S.W. | | c.a.r.h. | S.W. | | | - 8| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 9| | f. | S.W.W. | 1 b.| c. |N.W.byW.| | | - 10| | f. | | | f. | | | | 6 - 11| | | | | | | | | - 12| | | | | | | | | - 13| | c.s. | S.W. | | r.s. | S.W. | | | - 14| | f.a.s. | | | f. | | | | - 15| | | | | | | | | - 16| | | | | | | | | - 17| 8 b.| f. | N.W. | 1½ b.| f. | N.W. |f.| | - 18| 1 b.| c. | N.W.W. | 1 a.| f.a.s. | N.W.W. |f.| | - 19| 13 a.| c. | N.W. | 11 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | - 20| 5 b.| f. | N.W. | 8 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | - 21| 7 a.| c.s. | N.E. | 17 a.| s.h. | N.E. |f.| | - 22| 11 a.| s. |Shifting.| 13 a.| s. | N.W. |f.| | - 23| 11 a.| c. | N.E. | 17 a.| c. | N. |f.| | - 24| 4 a.| c. | N.W. | 11 a.| c. | W. |f.| | - 25| 2 b.| f. | W.N.W. | 16 a.| f. | W. |f.| | - 26| | c. | S.W. | | c. | S.W. |f.| | - 27| | f. | | | f. | | | | - 28| 5 a.| c.s. | N.W. | 18 a.| c.s. | N.W. |r.| | - 29| 16 a.| f. | W. | 23 a.| f. | |r.| | - 30| 22 a.| c.s. | N. | 16 a.| f.a.s. | f.a.s. |r.| | - 31| 10 a.| f. |S.W.by W.| 15 a.| f. | W. |r.| | - Feb. 1| 10 a.| f. | S.W. | 20 a.| f. | S.W.S. |r.| | 1½ - 2| 12 a.| f. | N.W. | 10 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1½ - 3| 12 a.| f. | S.W. | 19 a.| f. | W. | | | - 4| 17 a.| f. | S.W. | 28 a.| f. | S. |r.| | ½ - 5| 18 a.| f. | S.E. | 31 a.| c.a.f. | S.E.S. |r.| 2| 6½ - 6| 19 a.| f. | N.W. | 15 a.| c. | S. | | | - 7| 29 a.| r.a.c. | S.E. | 30 a.| r.c. | S.E. |f.| | 8 - 8| 22 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | 20 a.| c.a.s. | N. |r.| 1| - 9| 10 a.| f.a.s. | N.N.E. | 12 a.| c. | N.E. |r.| 2| - 10| 3 a.| f. | N.E. | 17 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| 1| 4 - 11| 18 a.| c.a.h. | S.E. | 31 a.| s.a.h. | S.E. |r.| 1| - 12| 15 a.| f. | S.S.E. | 25 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 2 - 13| 12 a.| f. | N.W. | 20 a.| f. | W. |r.| | 1 - 14| 15 a.| f. | S.W. | 32 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 15| 18 a.| f. | S.W. | 32 a.| f. | W. | | | - 16| 28 a.| c. | S.E. | 30 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. |r.| | 2½ - 17| 15 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 32 a.| f. | W. |r.| | 2 - 18| 10 a.| f. | N.W. | | | |r.| | 7½ - 19| 10 a.| f. | N.W. | | | | | | - 20| 10 a.| f. | N.W. | 28 a.| | S.W. |f.| | 2½ - 21| 20 a.| f. | N.W. | 34 a.| | N.W. |f.| | 1½ - 22| 14 a.| f. | N.E. | 26 a.| | N.E. |r.| | 1½ - 23| 6 a.| f. | N.W. | 24 a.| | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 24| 6 a.| f. | N.E. | 26 a.| | N.E. |f.| | 2 - 25| 20 a.| f. | N.E. | 28 a.| | S.S.W. | | | - 26| 16 a.| f. | N.E. | 30 a.| | N.E. |f.| | ½ - 27| 4 a.| c. | N.E. | 24 a.| r.s. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 28| 4 a.| c.s. | N.W. | 6 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. |f.| | 2 - 29| 8 a.| h.s. | N.W. | 12 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. |f.| | 2½ - March 1| 20 b.| f. | N.W. | 4 b.| | N.W. |f.| | 9 - 2| 19 b.| f. | N.W. | 14 a.| | E. |f.| | 8 - 3| 18 b.| f. | E. | 10 a.| | S.W. |f.| | 6½ - 4| 4 b.| f. | N.E. | 12 a.| | E. |f.| | 5 - 5| 2 a.| f. | N.W. | 12 a.| | N.W. |f.| | 3 - 6| 4 b.| f. | N.W. | 2 a.| | N.W. |f.| | 3 - 7| 16 b.| c.&s. | N.W. | 10 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 8| 2 b.| c.s. | N.W. | 12 a.| s. | N.W. |f.| | 1½ - 9| 10 a.| c. | N.W. | 10 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 10| 6 a.| c. | N.W. | 24 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2½ - 11| 12 a.| f. | E. | 20 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 2½ - 12| 14 a.| f. | N.E. | 16 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | 1½ - 13| 8 a.| f. | N.W. | 12 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 1½ - 14| 4 a.| f. | N.E. | 10 a.| f. | N.E. |f.| | 4½ - 15| 6 b.| c.s. | N.W. | 40 a.| r.a.s. | N.E. |r.| | 5 - 16| 2 b.| f. | E. | 40 a.| f. | S.S.W. |r.| |11 - 17| 12 a.| f. | N.E. | 38 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | 7 - 18| 2 a.| f. | E. | 44 a.| f. | N.E. |f.| | 3 - 19| 2 a.| f. | N.E. | 52 a.| f. | S.S.W. |f.| | 2½ - 20| 4 a.| f. | E. | 60 a.| f. | S.S.W. |f.| | 1½ - 21| 26 a.| f. | S.S.W. | 36 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 2 - 22| 22 a.| f. | N.W. | 40 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 2 - 23| 14 a.| f. | N.E. | 44 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | 4 - 24| 6 a.| f. | E. | 52 a.| f. | S.S.W. |r.| 1| 5½ - 25| 16 a.| f. | S.S.W. | 46 a.| f. | E. |r.| 2| - 26| 28 a.| f. | E. | 44 a.| f. | E. |r.| |10 - 27| 34 a.| r.&t. | E. | 42 a.| f.a.r. | N.E. |r.| | 7 - 28| 34 a.| c. | N.E. | 44 a.| c. | E. |r.| | 5½ - 29| 20 a.| r.a.t. | N.E. | 30 a.| h.r. | N.E. |r.| | 1 - 30| | c.a.r. | N.W. | | f. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 31| | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - April 1| | f. | N.E. | | f. | N.E. |r.| | 2½ - 2| 8 a.| f. | | | f. | N.E. |r.| | 3½ - 3| 42 a.| f. | N.E. | | r. | N.E. |r.| | 3½ - 4| 44 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | | | |r.| |11 - 5| 24 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | | t.a.r. | |r.| | 2 - 6| 18 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | | s.a.r. | |f.| | 4½ - 7| 10 a.| f.a.c. | N.W. | | c. | |f.| | 2 - 8| 10 a.| c. | N.E. | | c.r. | |f.| | 2½ - 9| 18 a.| f.a.c. | N.E. | | c. | |f.| | 2 - 10| 10 a.| f. | N.W. | | f. | |f.| | 6½ - 11| 10 a.| f. | N.E. | | f. | |f.| | 7½ - 12| 16 a.| c. | N.W. | | f.a.c. | |f.| | 7 - 13| 36 a.| c. | N.E. | | c. | |f.| | 6½ - 14| 22 a.| f. | S.W. | | f. | |f.| | 5 - 15| 22 a.| f. | N.W. | | | |f.| | 6½ - 16| 36 a.| c. | N.W. | | f.a.c. | |f.| | 5½ - 17| 26 a.| f.a.c. | N.W. | | f. | |f.| | 5 - 18| 16 a.| f.a.c. | N.N.W. | | c. | |f.| | 3 - 19| 34 a.| r. | S.S.E. | | | |f.| | 4 - 20| 34 a.| c.r. | S.E. | 37 a.| r. | S.E. |f.| | 3½ - 21| 31 a.| r. | S.W. | 42 a.| f.a.r. | W. |r.| 1| 2 - 22| 28 a.| c. | N.W. | 34 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| 1| 6 - 23| 22 a.| f. | N.W. | 64 a.| f. | W. |f.| | 1 - 24| 36 a.| f. | N.W. | 44 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 8 - 25| 26 a.| f. | N.W. | 38 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 2½ - 26| 16 a.| f. | N.W. | 58 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 6 - 27| 28 a.| c.&r. | W. | 62 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 8 - 28| 30 a.| f. | N.W. | 64 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 7 - 29| 32 a.| f. | N.W. | 52 a.| f. | S.E. |f.| | 7 - 30| 18 a.| f. | S.E. | 56 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | 6 - May 1| 20 a.| f. | S.E. | 54 a.| f. | N.E. |f.| | 4½ - 2| 19 a.| f. | S.E. | 68 a.| f. | S.S.E. |f.| | 6 - 3| 24 a.| f. | S.S.E. | 72 a.| f. | S.S.W. |f.| | 4½ - 4| 40 a.| t.c.r. | S. | 56 a.| c.a.r. | S. |r.| | 2 - 5| 42 a.| t.c.r. | W. | 58 a.| c.a.r. | W. |r.| | 2½ - 6| 34 a.| f. | S.W. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 2½ - 7| 38 a.| f. | S.E. | 52 a.| f. | S.S.E. |f.| | 4½ - 8| 44 a.| f. | N.E. | 62 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 4 - 9| 42 a.| f. | E. | 76 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 2 - 10| 46 a.| c. | N.E. | 67 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 3½ - 11| 46 a.| f. | E. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 2½ - 12| 36 a.| f. | E. | 72 a.| f. | W. |f.| | 3 - 13| 42 a.| c.a.r. | W. | 40 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. |f.| | 2 - 14| 34 a.| c. | S.E. | 56 a.| f. | N. | | | - - Here is an hiatus in the manuscript, which it is not in our power to - fill up, viz. from the 14th of May to September. The party were then - just beginning the ascent of the Missouri, and it is probable that - amongst the many other important things which engrossed their - attention this was omitted. - - Sep. 19| 46 a.| f. | S.E. | 71 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 20| 51 a.| f. | S.E. | 70 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 21| 58 a.| f. | S.W. | 88 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 22| 52 a.| f. | E. | 82 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 23| 50 a.| f. | S.E. | 86 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 24| 54 a.| f. | E. | 82 a.| f. | W. | | | - 25| 56 a.| f. | S.W. | 79 a.| f. | W. | | | - 26| 54 a.| f. | W. | 78 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 27| 52 a.| f. | W. | 86 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 28| 45 a.| f. | S.E. | 80 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 29| 45 a.| f. | S.E. | 67 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 30| 42 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. | 52 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. | | | - Oct. 1| 40 a.| c. | S.E. | 46 a.| c. | S.E. | | | - 2| 39 a.| f. | S.E. | 75 a.| c. | N. | | | - 3| 40 a.| c. | N.W. | 45 a.| c.a.r. | N. | | | - 4| 38 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | 50 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 5| 36 a.| f. | N.W. | 54 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 6| 43 a.| f. | N.W. | 60 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 7| 45 a.| c. | S.E. | 58 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 8| 48 a.| f. | N.W. | 62 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 9| 45 a.| c. | N.E. | 50 a.| c.a.r. | N. | | | - 10| 42 a.| f.a.r. | N.W. | 67 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 11| 43 a.| f. | N.W. | 59 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 12| 42 a.| f. | S. | 65 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 13| 43 a.| f. | S.W. | 49 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. | | | - 14| 42 a.| r. | S.E. | 40 a.| r. | S.E. | | | - 15| 46 a.| r. | N. | 57 a.| f.a.r. | N.W. | | | - 16| 45 a.| c. | N.E. | 50 a.| f. | N.E. | | | - 17| 47 a.| f. | N.W. | 54 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 18| 30 a.| f. | N.W. | 68 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 19| 43 a.| f. | S.E. | 62 a.| f. | S. | | | - 20| 44 a.| f. | N.W. | 48 a.| f. | N. | | | - 21| 31 a.| s. | N.W. | 34 a.| s. | N.W. | | | - 22| 35 a.| c.a.s. | N.E. | 42 a.| c. | N.E. | | | - 23| 32 a.| s. | N.W. | 45 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 24| 33 a.| s.a.f. | N.W. | 51 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. | | | - 25| 31 a.| c. | S.E. | 50 a.| c. | S.E. | | | - 26| 42 a.| f. | S.E. | 57 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 27| 39 a.| f. | S.W. | 58 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 28| 34 a.| f. | S.W. | 54 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 29| 32 a.| f. | S.W. | 59 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 30| 32 a.| f. | S.W. | 52 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 31| 33 a.| f. | W. | 48 a.| f. | W. | | | - Nov. 1| 31 a.| f. | N.W. | 47 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 2| 32 a.| f. | S.E. | 63 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 3| 32 a.| f. | N.W. | 53 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 4| 31 a.| f. | N.W. | 43 a.| c. | W. | | | - 5| 30 a.| c. | N.W. | 58 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 6| 31 a.| c. | S.W. | 43 a.| c. | W. | | | - 7| 43 a.| c. | S. | 62 a.| c. | S. | | | - 8| 38 a.| c. | S. | 39 a.| c. | W. | | | - 9| 27 a.| f. | N.W. | 43 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 10| 34 a.| f. | N.W. | 36 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 11| 28 a.| f. | N.W. | 60 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 12| 18 a.| f. | N. | 31 a.| f. | N.E. | | | - 13| 18 a.| s. | S.E. | 28 a.| c.a.s. | S.E. |f.| | 1½ - 14| 24 a.| s. | S.E. | 32 a.| c.a.s. | S.E. |r.| | 1 - 15| 22 a.| c. | N.W. | 31 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. |r.| | ½ - 16| 25 a.| c. | N.W. | 30 a.| f. | S.E. |r.| | ¼ - 17| 28 a.| f. | S.E. | 34 a.| f. | S.E. |r.| | ¼ - 18| 30 a.| f. | S.E. | 38 a.| f. | W. |r.| | ¼ - 19| 32 a.| f. | N.W. | 48 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 20| 35 a.| f. | N.W. | 50 a.| f. | W. |r.| | 1¼ - 21| 33 a.| c. | S. | 49 a.| f. | S.E. |r.| | - 22| 37 a.| f. | W. | 45 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | ½ - 23| 38 a.| f. | W. | 48 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 24| 36 a.| f. | N.W. | 34 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 25| 34 a.| f. | W. | 32 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 26| 15 a.| f. | S.W. | 21 a.| f. | W. | | | - 27| 10 a.| f. | S.E. | 19 a.| c. | S.E. |f.| | 3 - 28| 12 a.| s. | S.E. | 15 a.| s. | E. |f.| | 4 - 29| 14 a.| c.a.s. | N.E. | 18 a.| f. | W. |f.| | 2½ - 30| 17 a.| f. | W. | 23 a.| f. | W. |f.| 2| - Dec. 1| 1 b.| f. | E. | 6 a.| f. | S.E. |r.| 1| - 2| 38 a.| f. | N.W. | 36 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 3| 26 a.| f. | N.W. | 30 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 4| 18 a.| f. | N. | 29 a.| f. | N. |r.| | 1 - 5| 14 a.| c. | N.E. | 27 a.| s. | N.E. | | | - 6| 10 a.| s. | N.W. | 11 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. | | | - 7| 0 a.| f. | N.W. | 1 b.| c. | N.W. |r.| 2| ½ - 8| 12 b.| s. | N.W. | 5 b.| f.a.s. | N.W. | | | - 9| 7 a.| f. | E. | 10 b.| f. | N.W. | | | - 10| 10 b.| c. | N. | 11 b.| c. | N. |r.| | ½ - 11| 21 b.| f. | N. | 18 b.| f. | N. |f.| | ½ - 12| 38 b.| f. | N. | 16 b.| f. | N. | | | - 13| 20 b.| f. | S.E. | 4 b.| c. | S.E. | | | - 14| 2 b.| c. | S.E. | 2 a.| s. | S.E. |f.| | 1 - 15| 8 b.| c.a.s. | W. | 4 b.| c.a.s. | W. | | | - 16| 22 b.| f. | N.W. | 4 b.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 17| 45 b.| f. | N. | 28 b.| f. | N. |r.| | 3 - 18| 32 b.| f. | W. | 16 b.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 1 - 19| 2 b.| c. | S.W. | 16 a.| f. | S. |r.| | 1 - 20| 24 a.| f. | N.W. | 22 a.| c. | W. |r.| | 2 - 21| 22 a.| f. | N.W. | 22 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 22| 10 a.| f. | N.W. | 23 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2½ - 23| 18 a.| c. | S.W. | 27 a.| c. | W. |f.| | 1 - 24| 22 a.| s. | S.W. | 31 a.| c.a.s. | W. |f.| | 2½ - 25| 15 a.| s. | N.W. | 20 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 26| 18 a.| c. | N.W. | 21 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 27| 4 b.| c. | N.W. | 14 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 28| 12 a.| f. | N. | 13 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2½ - 29| 9 b.| f. | N. | 3 a.| f. | N. |r.| | 1 - 30| 20 b.| f. | N. | 11 b.| f. | N. |r.| | ½ - 31| 10 b.| f. | S.E. | 12 a.| c. | S.W. |r.| | 1½ - 1805. | | | | | | | | | - Jan. 1| 18 a.| s. | S.E. | 34 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 2| 4 b.| s. | N.W. | 8 b.| f.a.s. | N. | | | - 3| 14 b.| c. | N. | 4 b.| s. | S.E. | | | - 4| 28 a.| c.a.s. | W. | 4 b.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 2½ - 5| 20 b.| c. | N.W. | 18 b.| s. | N.E. |r.| | 2 - 6| 11 b.| c.a.s. | N.W. | 16 b.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 3 - 7| 22 b.| f. | N.W. | 14 b.| f. | W. |f.| | 1 - 8| 20 b.| f. | N.W. | 10 b.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 9| 21 b.| f. | W. | 18 b.| f.a.c. | N.W. | | | - 10| 40 b.| f. | N.W. | 28 b.| f. | N.W. | | | - 11| 38 b.| f. | N.W. | 14 b.| f. | N.W. |f.| | ½ - 12| 20 b.| f. | N.W. | 16 b.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 13| 34 b.| f. | N.W. | 20 b.| f. | N.W. | | | - 14| 16 b.| s. | S.E. | 8 b.| c.a.s. | S.E. | | | - 15| 10 b.| f. | E. | 3 a.| c. | S.W. |r.| | 1 - 16| 36 a.| c. | W. | 16 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 2½ - 17| 2 b.| c. | W. | 12 b.| f. | N.W. | | | - 18| 1 b.| f. | N.W. | 7 a.| f.a.c. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 19| 12 a.| c. | N.E. | 6 b.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 20| 28 a.| f. | N.E. | 9 b.| c. | S.E. |r.| | 1½ - 21| 2 b.| c. | N.E. | 8 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 22| 10 a.| f.a.h. | N.W. | 19 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 1¾ - 23| 20 b.| S. | E. | 2 b.| c.a.s. | N. |f.| | 2½ - 24| 12 b.| c. | N.W. | 2 b.| f. | N.W. |r.| | ¼ - 25| 26 b.| f. | N.W. | 4 b.| f.a.c. | W. | | | - 26| 12 a.| c. | N.E. | 20 a.| f.a.c. | S.E. | | | - 27| 20 a.| c. | S.E. | 16 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 28| 2 b.| f. | N.W. | 15 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 29| 4 a.| f. | S.W. | 16 a.| f. | W. |r.| | ½ - 30| 6 a.| c. | N.W. | 14 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 31| 2 b.| c.a.s. | N.W. | 8 a.| f.a.c. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - Feb. 1| 6 a.| c. | N.W. | 16 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2½ - 2| 12 b.| f. | N.W. | 3 a.| f. | S. |f.| | 1 - 3| 8 b.| f. | S.W. | 2 a.| f. | W. | | | - 4| 18 b.| f. | N.W. | 9 b.| f. | W. | | | - 5| 10 a.| f. | N.W. | 20 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 6| 4 b.| f. | N.W. | 12 a.| f. | W. |r.| | ½ - 7| 18 a.| f. | S.E. | 29 a.| c. | S. |r.| | ½ - 8| 18 a.| f. | N.W. | 28 a.| c. | N.E. |f.| | 1 - 9| 10 a.| f. | S.E. | 33 a.| c. | S.E. | | | - 10| 18 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. | 12 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 11| 8 b.| f. | N.W. | 2 b.| f. | N.W. | | | - 12| 14 b.| f. | S.E. | 2 a.| f. | W. | | | - 13| 2 b.| c. | S.E. | 10 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 14| 2 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. | 2 b.| f. | N.W. | | | - 15| 16 b.| f. | S.W. | 6 b.| f. | W. | | | - 16| 2 a.| f. | S.E. | 8 a.| f. | W. |f.| | 1 - 17| 4 a.| c. | S.E. | 12 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 18| 4 a.| S. | N.E. | 10 a.| f. | S. | | | - 19| 4 a.| f. | S.E. | 20 a.| f. | S. | | | - 20| 2 a.| f. | S. | 22 a.| f. | S. | | | - 21| 6 a.| f. | S. | 30 a.| f. | S. | | | - 22| 8 a.| c. | N. | 32 a.| c.a.r. | | | | - 23| 18 a.| f. | N.W. | 32 a.| f. | W. |r.| | ½ - 24| 8 a.| f. | N.W. | 32 a.| f. | W. | | | - 25| 16 a.| f. | W. | 38 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 26| 20 a.| f. | N.E. | 31 a.| f. | N. | | | - 27| 26 a.| f. | S.E. | 36 a.| f. | E. |f.| | ½ - 28| 24 a.| f. | E. | 38 a.| c. | S.E. | | | - March 1| 28 a.| c. | W. | 38 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 2| 28 a.| f. | N.E. | 36 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | 1½ - 3| 28 a.| c. | E. | 39 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 4| 26 a.| f. | N.W. | 36 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 5| 22 a.| f. | E. | 40 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 6| 26 a.| c. | E. | 36 a.| f. | E. |r.| | 2 - 7| 12 a.| f. | E. | 26 a.| c. | E. |r.| | 2 - 8| 7 a.| c. | E. | 12 a.| f. | E. |r.| | 2½ - 9| 2 a.| c. | N. | 18 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 10| 2 b.| f. | N.W. | 12 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 3½ - 11| 12 a.| c. | S.E. | 26 a.| f.a.c. | N.W. |r.| | 4½ - 12| 2 b.| f.a.s. | N. | 10 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 5 - 13| 1 b.| f. | S.E. | 28 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 3½ - 14| 18 a.| f. | S.E. | 40 a.| f. | W. | | | - 15| 24 a.| f. | S.E. | 38 a.| f. | W. |f.| | 1 - 16| 32 a.| c. | E. | 42 a.| c. | W. |f.| | 3 - 17| 30 a.| f. | S.E. | 46 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 2 - 18| 24 a.| c. | N. | 34 a.| c. | N. |f.| | 1 - 19| 20 a.| c.a.s. | N. | 31 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 1 - 20| 28 a.| c. | N.W. | 28 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 3 - 21| 16 a.| c. | E. | 26 a.| s.&h. | S. | | | - 22| 22 a.| f.a.s. | S. | 36 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 4 - 23| 34 a.| f. | W. | 38 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. |f.| | 4 - 24| 28 a.| c.a.s. | N.E. | 30 a.| c.a.s. | N. |r.| | 1 - 25| 16 a.| f. | E. | 32 a.| f. | S. |r.| | 5 - 26| 20 a.| f. | S.E. | 46 a.| f. | W. |r.| | 4½ - 27| 28 a.| f. | S.E. | 60 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 9 - 28| 40 a.| f. | S.E. | 64 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 1 - 29| 42 a.| f. | N.W. | 52 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| |11 - 30| 28 a.| f. | N.W. | 49 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| 1| 1 - 31| 35 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. | 45 a.| c. | S.E. |r.| | 9 - April 1| 33 a.| c. | N.W. | 43 a.| c.a.t. | W. |f.| |11 - 2| 28 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | 38 a.| f.a.c. | W. |f.| | 5 - 3| 24 a.| f. | N. | 44 a.| f. | N. |f.| | 4 - 4| 36 a.| f. | S. | 55 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 4 - 5| 30 a.| f. | N.W. | 39 a.| f. | N. |f.| | 2 - 6| 19 a.| f. | N. | 48 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 7| 26 a.| f. | N. | 64 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 2 - 8| 19 a.| f. | N.W. | 56 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 2 - 9| 38 a.| f. | S.E. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 10| 42 a.| f. | E. | 74 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | ⅛ - 11| 42 a.| f. | N.W. | 76 a.| f. | W. |f.| | ½ - 12| 56 a.| f. | N.W. | 74 a.| c.r.t.l. | W. |r.| | ⅛ - 13| 58 a.| f. | S.E. | 80 a.| f. | S.E. |f.| | 1 - 14| 52 a.| c. | S.E. | 82 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 15| 51 a.| f. | E. | 78 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 16| 54 a.| f. | S.E. | 78 a.| f. | S. |f.| | ½ - 17| 56 a.| f. | N.E. | 74 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | ½ - 18| 52 a.| f. | N.E. | 64 a.| c. | N. | | | - 19| 54 a.| c. | N.W. | 56 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 20| 40 a.| c. | N.W. | 42 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. | | | - 21| 28 a.| f. | N.W. | 40 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | ½ - 22| 34 a.| f.a.c. | W. | 40 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 23| 34 a.| f. | W. | 52 a.| c. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 24| 40 a.| f. | N. | 56 a.| f. | N. |r.| | 1 - 25| 36 a.| f. | N. | 52 a.| f. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 26| 32 a.| f. | S. | 63 a.| f. | S.E. |r.| | 3 - 27| 36 a.| f. | S.W. | 64 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | 2 - 28| 44 a.| f. | S.E. | 63 a.| f. | S.E. |f.| | 1½ - 29| 42 a.| f. | N.E. | 64 a.| f. | E. |f.| | 1½ - 30| 50 a.| f. | N.W. | 58 a.| f. | S.E. |f.| | ½ - May 1| 36 a.| c. | E. | 46 a.| c.a.f. | N.E. |f.| | 1½ - 2| 28 a.| s. | N.E. | 34 a.| c.a.s. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 3| 26 a.| f. | W. | 46 a.| c. | W. |f.| | ¼ - 4| 38 a.| c. | W. | 48 a.| f.a.c. | W. | | | - 5| 38 a.| f. | N.W. | 62 a.| f.a.r. | S.E. |r.| | 1 - 6| 48 a.| f. | E. | 61 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. |r.| | 2 - 7| 42 a.| c. | S. | 60 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | 1½ - 8| 41 a.| c. | E. | 52 a.| c.a.r. | E. |f.| | ¼ - 9| 38 a.| f. | E. | 58 a.| f. | W. |r.| | ¾ - 10| 38 a.| f.a.c. | W.N.W. | 62 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. |f.| | ¾ - 11| 44 a.| f. | N.E. | 60 a.| c. | S.W. | | | - 12| 52 a.| f. | S.E. | 54 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. |r.| | 2 - 13| 52 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | 54 a.| f.a.c. | N.W. |f.| | 2¼ - 14| 32 a.| f. | S.W. | 52 a.| c. | S.W. |f.| | 1¾ - 15| 48 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 54 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | ¾ - 16| 48 a.| c. | S.W. | 67 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 17| 60 a.| f. | N.E. | 68 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 18| 58 a.| f. | W. | 46 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. |f.| | 1 - 19| 38 a.| f. | E. | 68 a.| f.a.c. | S.W. | | | - 20| 52 a.| f. | N.E. | 76 a.| f. | E. |f.| | 1 - 21| 50 a.| f. | S.W. | 76 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 22| 46 a.| c. | N.W. | 48 a.| c. | N.W. |f.| | ½ - 23| 32 a.| f. | S.W. | 54 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 24| 32 a.| f. | N.W. | 68 a.| f. | S.E. |r.| | 3½ - 25| 46 a.| f. | S.W. | 82 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 2 - 26| 58 a.| f. | S.W. | 80 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | ½ - 27| 62 a.| f. | S.W. | 82 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 28| 62 a.| c. | S.W. | 72 a.| c.&r. | S.W. |r.| | ½ - 29| 62 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 67 a.| r. | S.W. |r.| | 1 - 30| 56 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 50 a.| r. | S.W. |r.| | 5 - 31| 48 a.| c.a.r. | W. | 53 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. |r.| | 1½ - June 1| 50 a.| c. | S.W. | 62 a.| c. | S.E. |r.| | 1½ - 2| 56 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 68 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 3| 46 a.| f. | S.W. | 60 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 4| 48 a.| f.a.c. | N.E. | 61 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 5| 40 a.| r. | S.W. | 42 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. |f.| | ¾ - 6| 35 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | 42 a.| r.a.r. | N.E. |f.| | 1½ - 7| 40 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 43 a.| r.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | 1½ - 8| 41 a.| r.a.r. | S.W. | 48 a.| f.a. | S.W. |f.| | 1¼ - 9| 50 a.| f. | S.W. | 52 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 1 - 10| 52 a.| f. | S.W. | 68 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | 2 - 11| 54 a.| f. | S.W. | 66 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 12| 54 a.| f. | S.W. | 64 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 13| 52 a.| f. | S.W. | 72 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | ¾ - 14| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 74 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 15| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 76 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 16| 64 a.| c.r. | S.W. | 58 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | ½ - 17| 50 a.| c. | S.W. | 57 a.| c. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 18| 48 a.| c. | S.W. | 64 a.| f.a.c. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 19| 52 a.| f. | S.W. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 20| 49 a.| c. | S.W. | 74 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 21| 49 a.| f. | S.W. | 70 a.| c. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 22| 45 a.| c. | S.W. | 54 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 23| 48 a.| f. | S.E. | 65 a.| c. | S.E. |f.| | ¼ - 24| 49 a.| c.a.r. | S.E. | 74 a.| f.a.c. | S.W. |f.| | - 25| 47 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 72 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 26| 49 a.| f. | S.W. | 78 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | ½ - 27| 49 a.| f. | S.W. | 77 a.| f.a.r.h. | S.W. |r.| | 1¼ - 28| 46 a.| f. | S.W. | 75 a.| c.a.f. | S.W. |r.| | 2 - 29| 47 a.| r.t.l. | S.W. | 77 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. |r.| | 4½ - 30| 49 a.| f. | S.W. | 76 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | 2¼ - July 1| 59 a.| f. | S.W. | 74 a.| f. | S.W. |r.| | ½ - 2| 60 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 78 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 3| 56 a.| f. | S.W. | 74 a.|c.a.f.a.r.| S.W. | | | - 4| 52 a.| f. | S.W. | 76 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 5| 49 a.| t.&r. | S.W. | 72 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 6| 47 a.| c.a.h. | S.W. | 74 a.| f.a.c. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 7| 54 a.| c.a.f. | S.W. | 77 a.| f.a.c. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 8| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 78 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 9| 56 a.| f. | S.W. | 76 a.| c.a.r. | N.W. | | | ¼ - 10| 52 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 66 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 11| 46 a.| f. | S.W. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | - 12| 50 a.| f. | S.W. | 74 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ¼ - 13| 42 a.| f. | S.W. | 76 a.| f. | S.W. | | | ¼ - 14| 45 a.| f. | S.W. | 78 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 15| 60 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 76 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 1½ - 16| 53 a.| f. | S.W. | 80 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 17| 58 a.| f. | S.W. | 81 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | 1½ - 18| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 84 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 19| 62 a.| f. | S.W. | 68 a.| c.a.h.r. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 20| 59 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 60 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 21| 60 a.| f. | N.W. | 67 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | ½ - 22| 52 a.| f. | N.W. | 80 a.| f. | N.E. | | | - 23| 54 a.| f. | S.W. | 80 a.| c. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 24| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 90 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 25| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 86 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 26| 60 a.| f. | S.W. | 82 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 27| 52 a.| c. | S.W. | 80 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. |f.| | ¾ - 28| 49 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 90 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 29| 54 a.| f.a.r. | N. | 82 a.| f. | N.E. |r.| | ½ - 30| 50 a.| f. | S.E. | 80 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 31| 48 a.| f. | S.W. | 92 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - Aug. 1| 54 a.| f. | S.W. | 91 a.| f. | S.W. |f.| | ½ - 2| 48 a.| f. | N.W. | 81 a.| f. | N.W. |f.| | ½ - 3| 50 a.| f. | N.E. | 86 a.| f. | N.E. |f.| | ½ - 4| 48 a.| f. | S. | 92 a.| f. | S. |f.| | ½ - 5| 49 a.| f. | S.E. | 79 a.| f. | S.E. |f.| | ¼ - 6| 52 a.| f. | S.W. | 71 a.| c. | S.W. | | | - 7| 54 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 80 a.| c. | S.W. | | | - 8| 54 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 82 a.| c.a.f. | S.W. | | | - 9| 58 a.| f. | N.E. | 78 a.| c. | S.W. | | | - 10| 60 a.| c.a.r. | S.W. | 68 a.| t.l.r. | S.W. | | | - 11| 58 a.|c.a.r.h.| N.E. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 12| 58 a.|f.a.r.h.| W. | 72 a.|f.a.r.a.h.| N.W. | | | - 13| 52 a.| c.a.f. | N.W. | 70 a.| f.a.r. | N.W. | | | - 14| 51 a.| f.a.r. | N.W. | 76 a.| f. | N.W. | | | - 15| 52 a.| f. | S.E. | 74 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 16| 48 a.| f. | S.W. | 70 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 17| 42 a.| f. | N.E. | 76 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 18| 45 a.| c. | S.W. | 78 a.| r. | S.W. | | | - 19| 30 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | 71 a.| f.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 20| 32 a.| f. | S.W. | 74 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 21| 19 a.| f. | S.E. | 78 a.| f. | E. | | | - 22| 22 a.| f. | E. | 70 a.| f. | E. | | | - 23| 35 a.| f. | E. | 72 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 24| 40 a.| f. | S.E. | 76 a.| f.a.r. | S.E. | | | - 25| 32 a.| f.a.r. | S.E. | 65 a.| c. | S.E. | | | - 26| 31 a.| f. | S.E. | 45 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 27| 32 a.| f. | S.E. | 56 a.| f. | S.E. | | | - 28| 35 a.| f. | S.W. | 66 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 29| 32 a.| f. | S.W. | 68 a.| f. | S.W. | | | - 30| 34 a.| c. | N.E. | 59 a.| c. | N.E. | | | - 31| 38 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | 58 a.| c.a.r.h. | N.E. | | | - Sep. 1| 38 a.| c. | N.W. | 67 a.| c. | N.W. | | | - 2| 36 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | 60 a.| c.a.r.h. | N.E. | | | - 3| 34 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | 52 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 4| 19 a.| r.a.s. | N.E. | 34 a.| c.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 5| 17 a.| c.a.s. | N.E. | 29 a.| c.a.r.s. | N.E. | | | - 6| | c.a.r. | N.E. | | r. | N.E. | | | - 7| | c.a.r. | N.E. | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 8| | c. | N.E. | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 9| | c.a.r. | N.E. | | f.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 10| | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.W. | | | - 11| | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.W. | | | - 12| | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.E. | | | - 13| | c. | N.E. | | r. | N.E. | | | - 14| | c.a.r. | S.W. | | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 15| | c.a.s. | S.W. | | s. | S.W. | | | - 16| | c.a.s. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 17| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 18| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 19| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 20| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 21| | f. | S.E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 22| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 23| | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 24| | f. | S.E. | | f. | S.E. | | | - 25| | f. | E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 26| | f. | E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 27| | f. | E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 28| | f. | E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 29| | | E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - 30| | | E. | | f. | S.W. | | | - - -----------------------+------------------------+------------------------ - October. | November. | December. - ------+-------+--------+------+------+----------+------+------+---------- - Day of|Wind. |Weather.|Day of|Wind. |Weather. |Day of|Wind. |Weather. - month.| | |month.| | |month.| | - ------+-------+--------+------+------+----------+------+------+---------- - 1 | E. | f. | 1 | N.E. | f. | 1 | E. | c.a.r. - 2 | N. | f. | 2 | S.W. | f. | 2 | S.W. | c.a.r. - 3 | E. | f. | 3 | N.E. | f.a.fog. | 3 | E. | f.a.r. - 4 | E. | f. | 4 | W. | c.a.r. | 4 | S.E. | r. - 5 | E. | f. | 5 | S.W. | r.c.r. | 5 | S.W. | r. - 6 | E. | f. | 6 | S.W. | r.a.r. | 6 | S.W. | r. - 7 | E. | f. | 7 | S.W. |r.a.r.fog.| 7 | N.E. | f.a.r. - 8 | E. | f. | 8 | S.W. | f.a.r. | 8 | N.E. | c. - 9 | S.W. | c. | 9 | S. | r. | 9 | N.E. | c.r. - 10 | N.W. | f. | 10 | N.W. | r.a.r. | 10 | N.E. | r. - 11 |E.&S.W.| c. | 11 | S.W. | r. | 11 | S.W. | r. - 12 |E.&S.W.| f. | 12 | S.W. |h.r.t.&l. | 12 | S.W. | r. - 13 | S.W. | f.a.r. | 13 | S.W. | r. | 13 | S.W. | r. - 14 | S.W. | f. | 14 | | r. | 14 | S.W. | r. - 15 | S.W. | f. | 15 | S.E. | f.a.r. | 15 | S.W. | c.a.r. - 16 | S.W. | f. | 16 |W.S.W.| f. | 16 | S.W. | r. - 17 | S.E. | f. | 17 | E. | c.a.f. | 17 | S.W. |f.a.r.&h. - 18 | S.E. | f. | 18 | S.E. | f.a.c. | 18 | S.E. |c.a.r.s.h. - 19 | S.E. | f. | 19 | S.E. | c.a.r. | 19 | S.W. | h.r.&c. - 20 | S.W. | f. | 20 | S.E. | f.a.r. | 20 | S.W. |f.a.r.&h. - 21 | S.W. | f. | 21 | S.E. | c.a.r. | 21 | S.W. | r. - 22 | S.W. | f. | 22 |S.S.E.| r. | 22 | S.W. | r. - 23 | S.W. | f. | 23 | S.W. | c.a.r. | 23 | S.W. | r.h.&t. - 24 | S.W. | f. | 24 | W. | f.a.r. | 24 | S.W. | r. - 25 | W. | f. | 25 |E.S.E.| c.a.r. | 25 | S.W. | c.r. - 26 | W. | f. | 26 |E.N.E.| r. | 26 | S.W. |r.a.t.&l. - 27 | W. | f. | 27 | S.W. | r. | 27 | S.W. | r. - 28 | N.W. | r.a.f. | 28 |S.W.W.| r. | 28 | S.E. | r. - 29 | W. | f.a.r. | 29 | S.W. | r. | 29 | S.E. | c.a.r. - 30 | S.E. | r.a.r. | 30 | S.W. |f.a.r.&h. | 30 | S.E. | f.a.r. - 31 | S.W. | f.a.r. | | | | 31 | S.W. | r. - - -------+---------------+----------+---------------+---------+----------- - | | | | | Columbia - | | | | | River. - | | | | +---+---+--- - Day of | | | |Wind at | r.| F | I - the | Weather. | Wind at | Weather. | four | | e | n - month. | | sunrise. | |o’clock. | a | e | c - | | | | | n | t | h - | | | | | d | . | e - | | | | | | | s - | | | | | f.| | . - -------+---------------+----------+---------------+---------+---+---+--- - 1806. | | | | | | | - Jan. 1| c.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.c. | S.W. | | | - 2| c.a.r. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | - 3| c.a.r.h.t.&l. | S.W. | c.a.r.h.&f. | S.W. | | | - 4| c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | r.a.f.&r. | S.E. | | | - 5| r. | S.E. | r. | S.E. | | | - 6| c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | E. | | | - 7| f. | N.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | - 8| f. | N.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | - 9| f. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | - 10| f.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | - 11| c. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 12| f.a.c. | N.W. | c. | N.W. | | | - 13| r. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | - 14| f.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.f. | S. | | | - 15| r.a.c.&r. | S.E. | r.a.r. | S. | | | - 16| r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 17| c.a.r. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | | | - 18| r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 19| c.a.r. | S. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 20| r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 21| c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 22| r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 23| c.a.r.t.&l. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | - 24| c.a.r.&s. | S.E. | c.a.r.h.&s. | E. | | | - 25| c.a.r.h.s. | N.E. | c.a.r.h.&s. | N.E. | | | - 26| c.a.h.&s. | N.E. | c.a.s. | N.E. | | | - 27| f.a.s. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 28| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 29| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 30| s.a.s. | N. | s.a.s. | W. | | | - 31| f.a.c. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - Feb. 1| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 2| f. | N.E. | c.a.s. | S.W. | | | - 3| c.a.s.&.r. | N.W. | c.a.f. | N.E. | | | - 4| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 5| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 6| f. | N.E. | c. | S.W. | | | - 7| c. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | | | - 8| c.a.s.r.h. | S.W. | c.a.f.r.h.&s. | S.W. | | | - 9| c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | - 10| c.a.r.h.s. | N. | c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | | | - 11| c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | r.a.f.&r. | S.W. | | | - 12| r.a.r.&c. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | - 13| c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 14| c.a.f.&s. | S.W. | r.a.r.f.&r. | S.W. | | | - 15| c.a.r.&f. | S. | c.a.r.&f. | S.W. | | | - 16| r.a.s.&r. | S.W. | r.a.f.&r. | S.W. | | | - 17| c.a.r.h.&s. | S.W. | r.a.f.h.s.&r. | S.W. | | | - 18| c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | r.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | - 19| r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 20| c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 21| r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | - 22| f.a.r. | N.E. | c.a.f. | N.E. | | | - 23| f. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | - 24| c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S. | | | - 25| r.a.r. | S. | r.a.r. | S. | | | - 26| f.a.r. | N.E. | c.a.f.&r. | S. | | | - 27| c.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 28| r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.c.&f. | S.W. | | | - March 1| f.a.r.&c. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | - 2| r.a.c.&r. | S. | r.a.c.&r. | S. | | | - 3| c.a.r. | S. | c.a.r. | S. | | | - 4| r.a.c.&r. | S. | r.a.r. | S. | | | - 5| c.a.r. | N.E. | c.a.r. | S. | | | - 6| f.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | - 7| r.a.r.&h. | S.E. |r.a.f.r.h.c.&f.| S.E. | | | - 8| h.&r.a.h.r.&s.| S. | r.a.r.&h. | S.E. | | | - 9| s.&h.a.r.s.&h.| S.W. | r.a.h.&r. | S.W. | | | - 10| s.&r.a.h.r.&s.| S.W. | f.a.r.h.&s. | S.W. | | | - 11| f.a.r.h.&s. | S.E. | f.a.r.&h. | S.E. | | | - 12| f.a.c. | N.E. | c.a.f. | N.E. | | | - 13| f.a.r. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 14| c.a.f. | N.E. | c. | N.E. | | | - 15| c.a.c. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 16| r.a.f.&c. | S.W. | c.a.f.c.r. | S.W. | | | - 17| c.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.f.h.s.&r. | S.W. | | | - 18| r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | r.a.f.r.&h. | S.W. | | | - 19| r.&h.a.c.r.&h.| S.W. | r.a.f.r.&h. | S.W. | | | - 20| r.a.r.&h. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | - 21| r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 22| r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. |S.W. N.E.| | | - 23| r.a.r. | S.W. | f.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | - 24| r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | f.a.c. |N.W. S.W.| | | - 25| c.a.f. | S.E. | r.a.c.&r. | S.E. | | | - 26| c.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.f.&c. | S.E. | | | - 27| r.a.c. | S.E. | r.a.c.&r. | S.E. | | | - 28| c.a.r. | N. | f.a.f.&r. | S.W. | | | - 29| c.a.r.&f. | S. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 30| c. | E. | f.a.c. | S.W. | | | - 31| f. | S.E. | | | | | - Ap. 1| c.a.f. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | r.| | 1 - 2| c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | f.| | ⅛ - 3| c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | W. | f.| | 3½ - 4| c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | f.| | 4½ - 5| c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | f.| | 2½ - 6| f.a.c. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f.| | 1 - 7| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | r.| | ½ - 8| f. | E. | f. | E. | r.| | 1½ - 9| f. | W. | f. | W. | | | - 10| c.a.r. | W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | r.| | 1 - 11| r.a.r. | W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | r.| | 2 - 12| c.a.r. | W. | r.a.c.&r. | W. | r.| | 2 - 13| r.a.c.&r. | W. | c.a.r.&f. | W. | r.| | 2½ - 14| f. | W. | f. | W. | r.| | 1 - 15| f. | W. | f. | W. | | | - 16| f.a.c. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f.| | 2 - 17| f. | N.E. | c.a.f. | S.W. | f.| | 2 - 18| f.a.r. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f.| | 1 - 19| c.a.r. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | f.| | 3 - 20| f.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | f.| | 2½ - 21| f. | N.E. | f. | E. | f.| | 2 - 22| f. | N.W. | f. | W. | f.| | 1 - 23| f.a.c. | E. | f. | N.E. | f.| | 4 - 24| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| | 2 - 25| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | f.| | 2 - 26| f.a.c. | N.W. | f. | N.E. | f.| | 2½ - 27| f.a.r. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | f.| | 1½ - 28| f.a.t. | S.W. | f. | N.E. | f.| | 2 - 29| f.a.c. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| | 1 - 30| c.a.r. | N.W. | f.a.c. | N.W. | f.| | 2 - May 1| c.a.r. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | | | - 2| f.a.c. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 3| c.a.h.r.s. | S.W. | c.a.r.h.s. | S.W. | | | - 4| f.a.h. | S.W. | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | - 5| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 6| r.a.c.r. | N.E. | f.a.r. | N.E. | | | - 7| f.a.c. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 8| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 9| f. | S.W. | f.a.c. | W. | | | - 10| c.a.r.&s. | S.W. | f.a.s. | S.W. | | | - 11| f.a.r. | S.W. | f.a.c. | S.W. | | | - 12| f. | E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 13| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 14| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 15| f. | N. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | - 16| c. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | r.| | 6 - 17| r.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | r.| |10¾ - 18| c.a.r. | S.E. | c. | S.E. | r.| | 2 - 19| r.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | f.| | 4 - 20| r.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.r. | S.E. | r.| | 2 - 21| c.a.r. | S.E. | f.a.c. | S.E. | f.| | 1 - 22| f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f.| | 2 - 23| f. | N.W. | f. |N.W. S.E.| f.| | 1½ - 24| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | f.| | 1 - 25| c.a.r.&t. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | r.| | 9½ - 26| f.a.r. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | r.| | 6 - 27| c. | S.E. | r.a.f.r.t.l. | S.E. | r.| | 6½ - 28| c.a.r.t.&l. | S.E. | c.a.f.r.t.l. | S.E. | r.| |11 - 29| c.a.r.&t. | S.E. | c.a.r. | N.W. | r.| 1 | 5 - 30| c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f.| | 6 - 31| c.a.f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | r.| 1 | 1 - June 1| f.a.r.t.&l. | S.E. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | - 2| c.a.c. | N.W. | f.a.c. | S.E. | | | - 3| c.a.f.&c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | - 4| c.a.r. | S.E. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | - 5| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 6| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 7| c.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.f.r.h. | N.W. | | | - 8| c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | N.W. | | | - 9| c. | S.E. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | - 10| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 11| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 12| f.a.r.l.&t. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 13| c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | N.W. | | | - 14| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 15| c. | N.W. | r.a.f.&r. | N.W. | | | - 16| f.a.c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | - 17| c.a.r. | E. | c.a.f.&r. | S.E. | | | - 18| c.a.r. | E. | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | - 19| f.a.c. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 20| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 21| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 22| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | - 23| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | - 24| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | - 25| c.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.r. | N.W. | | | - 26| c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | - 27| f.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | - 28| f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | - 29| f. | S.E. | f.a.r.h.t. | S.E. | | | - 30| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - July 1| c.a.f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | - 2| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 3| f. | S.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 4| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 5| f. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 6| f. | S.W. | c.a.r.t.&l. | S.W. | | | - 7| c.a.r. | W. | f.a.r. |S.W.by W.| | | - 8| f.a.r. | W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 9| c. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | - 10| f. | S.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 11| f. | S.E. | f. | N.N.E. | | | - 12| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 13| f. | S.S.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 14| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | - 15| f. |S.E. by E.| f. | N.E. | | | - 16| c. | N.E. | c. | N.E. | | | - 17| f.a.r.h.t.l. | S.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 18| f. | S.W. | f. | S.E. | | | - 19| f. | N.W. | f. | S.E. | | | - 20| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | - 21| f. | N.E. | c. | N.E. | | | - 22| f.a.t.l.&r. | N.E. | c. | N.E. | | | - 23| f. | N.E. | c. | S.E. | | | - 24| f. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | - 25| c. | E. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | - 26| c. | S.S.W. | f.a.r. | N.W. | | | - 27| f. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | - 28| c.a.r. | N.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 29| c.a.r.t.&l. | N.E. | f. | N. | | | - 30| f.a.r.t.&l. | N.W. | f.a.r. | S.E. | | | - 31| f. | N.W. | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | - Aug. 1| c.a.r. | N.W. | r. | N. | r.| 5 | ½ - 2| c.a.r. | N. | f.a.r. | N. | r.| 3 | - 3| f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | r.| 2 | ¼ - 4| f. | N.W. | f. | N.E. | f.| 6 | ½ - 5| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | f.| 7 | - 6| c.a.r.t.l. | S.W. | f. | N.E. | f.| 2 | ¼ - 7| r. | N.E. | c.a.r. | N. | f.| 2 | ½ - 8| f. | N. | f. | N.W. | f.| | - 9| f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | f.| 1 | ¼ - 10| f. | E. | c. | E. | f.| | ¾ - 11| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| 2 | - 12| f. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | f.| 2 | ¼ - 13| f.a.r. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f.| 2 | ½ - 14| f. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | f.| 3 | ½ - 15| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| 2 | - 16| f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| 3 | ½ - 17| c. | S.E. | c. | S.E. | | | - 18| c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f.| 1 | ½ - 19| t.l.&r. | S.E. | c. | S.E. | f.| | ¾ - 20| c.a.t.l.&r. | S.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| 1 | ¼ - 21| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | f.| 2 | ½ - 22| c.a.r. | S.W. | f. | S.E. | f.| 4 | - 23| c. | S.E. | r. | N.W. | f.| 1 | ½ - 24| f. | N.E. | f. | N.W. | f.| 2 | - 25| f. | S.W. | f. | N.W. | f.| 1 | ¼ - 26| f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f.| | ¾ - 27| f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f.| 1 | ¼ - 28| f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | - 29| c. | N.W. | f.a.r. | S.E. | f.| | ½ - 30| c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | - 31| c.a.r.t.l.w. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | | | - -------+---------------+----------+---------------+---------+---+---+--- - - Day of the REMARKS AND REFLECTIONS. - month. - 1804. - January 1 Snow one inch deep. - 2 Some snow last night. - 3 Hard wind. - 4 River covered with ice out of the Missouri. - 5 River Du Bois rise. - 6 do. do. do. - 7 do. do. do. - 8 do. do. do. and discharge ice. - 9 Some snow last night. - 10 The Missouri rise. - 13 Snowed last night. - 17 River covered with ice, some 5½ inches thick. - 19 do. do. do. - 20 No ice passing to-day. - 21 Ice running out of the Missouri 9 inches thick. - Snow 2½ inches deep. - 22 Ice running out of the Missouri, snow 5¾ inches - deep. - 23 Ice stopped. - 24 The trees covered with ice. - 28 Ice running, cold &c. - February 1 The wind blew hard, no frost, snow disappearing - fast. - 2 Frost this morning, the snow has disappeared in - spots. - 3 Frost this morning, the show thaws considerably. - 4 Frost, number of swan and geese from N. and S. - 5 Immense quantity of ice running, some of which is - 11 inches thick. - 6 A quantity of soft ice running, white frost, the snow - disappeared, swans passing. - 7 A small quantity of floating ice passing, swans - passing. - 8 Many swan from N.W. Creek rose and took off - the water mark. - 9 The river rose 2 feet: large quantity of drift ice - from the Missouri. - 10 Ice still drifting in considerable quantities: some - geese pass from the south. - 11 The sugar maple runs freely: swans pass from the - north. - 12 Pigeons, geese and ducks of various kinds have - returned. - 13 The first appearance of the blue crains. - 14 But little drift ice: the Mississippi is not broken - up: sugar trees run. - 15 Immense quantity of swans. - 27 The river rose three inches and fell immediately. - 28 Began to snow, and continued all day. - 29 Snow all night, and until eleven o’clock A. M. and cleared - away. - March 7 Saw the first brant return. - 8 Rain succeeded by snow and hail. - 9 Cloudy in the morning. - 19 The weather has been generally fair but very cold, the - ice run for several days in such quantities, that it - was impossible to pass the river; visited St. - Charles; saw the first snake, which was the kind - usually termed the garter snake; saw also a beetle - of a black colour, with two red stripes on his back, - passing each other crosswise from the but of the wing - to the extremity of the same. - 20 Heard the first frogs on my return from St. Charles. - 25 Saw the first white crane return. - 26 The weather warm and fair. - 27 The buds of the spicewood appeared, and the tassels - of the mail cottonwood were larger than a large - mulberry, and with the shape and colour of that - fruit: some of them had fallen from the trees. The - grass begins to spring; the weather has been warm, - and no falling weather until this time, though the - atmosphere has been very smoky and thick; a heavy - fall of rain commenced, which continued until twelve - at night, attended with thunder and lightning. Saw - large insects which resembled musquitoes, but doubt - whether they are really those insects or the fly - which produces them, they attempted to bite my horse, - but I could not observe that they made any impression - with their beaks. - 31 Windy. - April 1 The spicewood is in full bloom, the dog’s-tooth violet, - and May apple appeared above ground. A northern - light appeared at 10 o’clock P. M. very red. - 5 At St. Louis the buds of the peaches, apples and - cherries appear. - 6 A large flock of pellicans appear. - 7 The leaves of some of the apple trees have burst their - coverts and put forth, the leaves of the greenwood - bushes have put forth.--Many of the wild plants have - sprung up and appear above ground. - 10 No appearance of the buds of the Osage apple; the - Osage plum has put forth its leaves and flower buds, - though it not yet completely in blow. - 13 The peach trees are partly in bloom; the brant, geese, - duck, swan, crane and other aquatic birds have - disappeared very much within a few days, and have - gone farther north I presume; the summer ducks raise - their young: in this neighbourhood, and are now here - in great numbers. - 17 Peach trees in full bloom; the weeping willow has put - forth its leaves, and are one fifth of their size: - the violet, the dove’s-foot and cowslip are in blow, - the dog’s-tooth violet is not yet in bloom. The - trees of the forest, particularly the cottonwood, - begin to obtain from the size of their buds, a - greenish cast at a distance; the gooseberry, which - is also in this country and black, have put forth - their leaves--frost. - 26 The white frost killed much fruit near Kahokia, while - that at St. Louis escaped with little injury. - 30 White frost; slight; did but little injury. - May 5 Thundered and lightened excessively this morning. - 10 Distant thunder: sultry this evening. - 12 The wind at four was uncommonly hard. - 25 Strawberries in the prairies ripe, and abundant. - 27 Service berries or wild currants ripe and abundant. - 30 Mulberries begin to ripen; abundant in the bottom of - the river. - June 10 Purple raspberries ripe and abundant. - 11 Many small birds are now sitting; some have young: the - whippoorwill sitting. - 16 The wood duck now have its young; these ducks are - abundant, and except one solitary pelican and a few - geese, these ducks were the only aquatic fowl we - have yet seen. - July 1 Saw some geese with their young; caught several; they - are not yet feathered, nor can they fly; the old - geese are in the same situation at this season. - 4 A great number of young geese and swan in a lake - opposite to the mouth of Fourth of July creek: in - the lake there is also an abundance of fish of - various species, the pike, perch, carp, cat, - sun-perch, &c. &c. - 12 The deer and bear are becoming scarce, and the elk - begin to appear. - 23 Catfish is very common, and easy taken in any part of - this river; some are nearly white, particularly above - the Platte river. - Sept. 19 The leaves of some of the cottonwood begin to fade: - yesterday saw the first brant passing from the - northwest to southeast. - 20 The antelope is now rutting; the swallow has - disappeared twelve days. - 21 The elk is now rutting; the buffaloe is nearly ceased; - the latter commence the latter end of July or the - first of August. - 22 A little foggy this morning; a great number of - green-legged plover are passing down the river, also - some geese and brant. - 23 The air remarkably dry; plums and grapes fully ripe; - in thirty-six hours two spoonfulls of water - evaporated in a saucer. - 27 Saw a large flock of white gulls, with wings tipped - with black. - October 1 The leaf of the ash, poplar, and most of the shrubs - begin to turn yellow, and decline. - 3 The earth and sand which form the bars of this river - are so fully impregnated with salt, that it shoots - and adheres to the little sticks which appear on the - surface; it is pleasant and seems nitrous. - 5 Slight white frost last night: geese and brant passing - south. - 6 Frost last night; saw teel, mallards and gulls. - 9 Wind blew hard this morning; saw some brant and geese - passing to the south. - 14 Cotton-wood all yellow, and the leaves begin to fall: - abundance of grapes and red berries; the leaves of - all the trees as ash, elm, &c. except the - cottonwood, are now fallen. - 17 Saw a large flock of white brant with black wings: - antelopes are passing to the Black mountains to - winter, as is their custom. - 18 Hard frost last night, the clay near the water edge - was frozen, as was the water in the vessels exposed - to the air. - 19 No mule-deer seen above the Chayenne river. - 20 Much more timber than usual: saw the first black haws - that we have seen for a long time. - 29 The wind was so hard, that it was extremely - disagreeable: the sand was blown on us in clouds. - Nov. 3 Wind blew hard all day. - 7 A few drops of rain this evening; saw the - aurora-borealis at 10 P. M.; it was very brilliant - in perpendicular columns, frequently changing - position. - 8 Since we have been at our present station, the river - has fallen 9 inches. - 9 Very hard frost this morning. - 10 Many geese passing to the south; saw a flock of the - crested cherry birds passing to the south. - 13 Large quantity of drift ice running this morning, - the river having appearances of closing for this - winter. - 16 Hard frost this morning attached to the timber and - boughs of the trees. - 17 The frost of yesterday remained on the trees until - 2 P. M. when it descended like a shower of snow; swans - passing from the north. - 20 Little soft ice this morning; the boat in much danger - from ice, &c. - 29 The snow fell eight inches deep, it drifted in heaps - in the open ground. - 30 The Indians pass the river on the ice. - Decr. 5 Wind blew excessively hard this night from the - northwest. - 7 Last night the river blocked up opposite fort Mandan. - 8 The ice one and a half inches thick on the part that - had not previously frozen; the buffaloe appear. - 14 Captain Clark set out with a hunting party on the ice - with sleighs. - 15 Snow fell half inch. - 24 Snow very inconsiderable. - 27 The trees are all white with the frost which attached - itself to their boughs. - 28 It blew very hard last night; the frost fell like a - shower of snow. - 1805 - January 3 The snow is nine inches deep. - 6 At 12 o’clock to-day two luminous spots appeared on - each side of the sun, extremely bright. - 8 The snow is now ten inches deep, accumulating by - frosts. - 12 Singular appearance of three distinct _Halos_ or - luminous rings about the moon appeared this evening - at half after nine, P.M. and continued one hour; the - moon formed the centre of the middle ring, the other - two which lay north and south of the moon, and had - each of them a limb passing through the moon’s - centre, and projecting north and south, a - semidiameter beyond - the middle ring, to which last they were equal - in dimensions, each ring appearing to extend - an angle of fifteen degrees of a great circle. - 15 A total eclipse of the moon last night visible here, - but partially obscured by the clouds. - 19 Ice now three feet thick on the most rapid part of - the river. - 23 The snow fell about four inches deep last night, - and continues to snow. - It frequently happens that the sun rises fair and - in about fifteen or twenty minutes it becomes - suddenly turbid, as if the moon had some chemical - effect on the atmosphere. - 31 The snow fell two inches last night. - Feb. 8 The black and white speckled woodpecker has returned. - 14 The snow fell three inches deep last night. - March 2 The snow has disappeared in many places, the river - partially broken up. - 3 A flock of ducks passed up the river this morning. - 12 Snow but slight, disappeared to-day. - 19 But little snow, not enough to cover the ground. - Collected some roots, herbs and plants, in order - to send by the boat, particularly the root - said to cure the bite of a mad dog and rattlesnake. - The Indians raise a kind of artichokes, which they - say is common in the prairies; well tasted. - 21 Some ducks in the river opposite the fort. - 24 But little snow. - 25 A flock of swan returned to-day: the ice in the river - has given way in many places, and it is with - difficulty it can be passed. - 26 The ice gave way in the river about 3 P. M. and - came down in immense sheets; very near destroying - our new canoes; some geese pass to-day. - 27 The first insect I have seen, was a large black gnat - to-day; the ice drifting in great quantities. - 28 Ice abates in quantity, wind hard, river rises thirteen - inches, and falls twelve inches. - 29 A variety of insects make their appearance, as flies, - bugs, &c. The ice ceases to run, supposed to have - formed an obstruction above. - 30 The ice comes down in great quantities; the Mandans - take some floating buffaloe. - 31 Ducks and geese passing; the ice abates in quantity. - April 1 A fine refreshing shower of rain fell about 2 P. M. - this was the first shower of rain that we had - witnessed since the 15th September, 1804, though it - has several times fallen in small quantities, and - was noticed in the diary of the weather; the cloud - came from the west, and was attended by hard thunder - and lightning. I have observed that all - thunder-clouds in the western part of the continent, - proceed from the westerly quarter, as they do in the - Atlantic states. The air is remarkably dry and pure - in this open country; very little rain or snow, - either winter or summer. The atmosphere is more - transparent than I ever observed it in any country - through which I have passed. - 4 Observed a flock of brant passing up the river to-day: - the wind blew very hard, as it does frequently in - this quarter. There is scarcely any timber to break - the winds from the river, and the country on both - aides being level plains, wholly destitute of timber, - the winds blow with astonishing violence, in this - open country, and form a great obstruction to the - navigation of the Missouri, particularly with small - vessels, which can neither ascend nor descend should - the wind be the least violent. - 6 This day a flock of cherry or cedar birds were seen, - one of the men killed several of them. They are - common in the United States, usually associate in - large flocks, and are frequently destructive to the - cherry orchards, and in winter in the lower parts of - the states of Maryland and Virginia feed on the - berries of the cedar. They are a small bluish-brown - bird, crested with a tuft of dark brown feathers, - with a narrow black stripe passing on each side of - the head underneath the eye, from the base of the - upper beak to the back of the head; it is - distinguished more particularly by some of - the shorter feathers of the wing, which are tipped - with red spots, which have much the appearance, at a - little distance, of sealing-wax. - 8 The killdeer and large hawk have returned; the only - bird that I observed during the winter at fort - Mandan, was the Missouri magpie, a bird of the corvus - genus, the raven in immense numbers, the small - woodpecker, or sapsucker as they are sometimes - called, the beautiful eagle, or calumet-bird, so - called from the circumstance of the natives - decorating their pipe-stems with its plumage, and - the prairie-hen or grouse. - 9 The crows have also returned, saw the first to-day; - the musquitoes revisit us, saw several of them. - 10 The lark, bald-eagle, and the large plover have - returned; the grass begins to spring up, and the - leaf-buds of the willow to appear. - 11 The lark-woodpecker, with yellow wings, and a black - spot on the breast, common to the United States have - appeared, with sundry small birds. Many plants begin - to appear above the ground; saw a large white gull - to-day; the eagle are now laying their eggs; and the - geese have mated. The elm, large leafed willow, - and the bush which bears a red berry is in - bloom. - 13 The leaves of the choke-cherry are about half - grown, the cottonwood is in bloom; the flower - of this tree resembles that of the aspin in form, - and is of a deep purple colour. - 15 Several flocks of white brant with black wings pass - us to-day, on their flight to the northwest; the - trees now begin to assume a green appearance, - though the earth at the depth of about three - feet is not yet thawed, which we discover by - the banks of the river falling in and disclosing a - strata of frozen earth. - 16 Saw the first leather-wing bat; it appeared about - the size of those common to the United States. - 18 A heavy dew this morning, which is the first and - only one we have seen since we passed the - Council bluffs last summer; there is but little - dew in this open country. Saw a flock of pellican - pass from southwest to northeast; they appeared - to be on a long flight. - 19 The trees have now put forth their leaves; the - gooseberries, currant, service berries, and wild - plums are in bloom. - 21 White frost last night; the earth frozen along the - water’s edge. - 23 Saw the first robbin, also the brown curfew. - 28 Vegetation has progressed but little since the 18th; - in short, the change is scarcely perceptible. - May 2 The wind continued so violent from 12 o’clock yesterday, - until five o’clock this evening, that we - were unable to proceed; the snow which fell - last night and this morning, has not yet disappeared; - it forms a singular contrast with the - trees which are now in leaf. - 3 At 4 P. M. the snow had not yet entirely disappeared; - the new horns of the elk begin to appear. - 4 The snow has disappeared; saw the first grasshoppers - to-day; there are great quantities of a small - blue beetle feeding on the willows. - 8 The bald eagle, of which there are great numbers, - now have their young; the turtle-dove appears. - 9 The choke-cherry is now in bloom. - 17 The geese have their young; the elk begin to produce - their young; the antelope and deer as yet - have not; the small species of whippoorwill - begin to cry; the blackbird, both large and - small have appeared. We have had scarcely - any thunder and lightning; the clouds are generally - white, and accompanied with wind only. - 18 Saw the wild rose in bloom. The brown thrush - or mocking bird have appeared; had a good - shower of rain to-day, it continued about two - hours; this is the first shower that deserves the - appellation of rain, which we have seen since - we left fort Mandan; no thunder, &c. - 22 Saw some particles of snow fall to-day, which did - not lie in sufficient quantity on the ground to - be perceptible. - 23 Hard frost last night; ice in the eddy water along - the shore, and the water froze on the oars - this morning; strawberries in bloom; saw the - first king-fisher. - 25 Saw the king-bird or bee-martin; the grouse disappear; - killed three of the bighorn animals. - 26 The last night was much the warmest that we have - experienced; found the covering of our blanket - sufficient: the air is extremely dry and pure. - 28 A slight thunder storm, the air was turbid in the - forenoon, and appeared to be filled with smoke; - we supposed it to proceed from the burning of - the plains, which we are informed are frequently - set on fire by the Snake Indiana to compel the - antelopes to resort to the woody and mountainous - country which they inhabit; saw a small - white and black woodpecker, with a red head, - the same which is common to the Atlantic - states. - 30 The rain commenced about 4 o’clock in the evening, - and continued moderately through the course of - the night; more rain has now fallen then we - have experienced since the 15th of September - last. - 31 The antelopes now bring forth their young; from - the size of the young of the bighorn, I suppose - they bring forth their young as early at least as - the elk. - June 5 Great numbers of sparrows, larks, curlews and - other smaller birds common to prairies, are - now laying their eggs and sitting; their nests - are in great abundance; the large bats, or - night-hawks, and the common buzzards appear; first - saw the mountain-cock near the entrance of - Maria’s river. - 15 The deer now begin to bring forth their young; - the young magpies begin to fly. The brown and - grizly bear begin to copulate. - 27 At 1 P. M. a black cloud which arose in the - southwest came on, accompanied with a high - wind and violent thunder and lightning; a great - quantity of hail also fell during this storm, - which lasted about two hours and a half. The hail - which was generally about the size of pigeons’ - eggs, and not unlike them in form, covered the - ground to one inch and a half. For about twenty - minutes during this storm, hail fell of an enormous - size with violence almost incredible. - When the hail-stones struck the ground, they - would rebound to the height of ten or twelve - feet, and pass twenty or thirty before they touched - again. During this immense storm, I was - with the greater part of the men on the portage; - the men saved themselves, some by getting under - a canoe, others by putting sundry articles on - their heads, two were knocked down, and seven - had their legs and thighs much bruised. Captain - Lewis weighed one of those hail stones which - weighed three ounces, and measured seven - inches in circumference; they were generally - round and perfectly solid. I am convinced that - if one of these had struck a man on his naked - head, it would certainly have fractured his skull; - young blackbirds are abundant and beginning - to fly. - July 6 A heavy wind from the southwest, attended with - rain about the middle of the last night; about - day had a violent thunderstorm, attended with - hail and rain; the hail covered the ground, and - was near the size of musquet balls; one blackbird - was killed with the hail; I am astonished - that more have not suffered in a similar manner, - as they are abundant, and I should suppose - the hail-stones sufficiently heavy to kill them. - August 7 The river which we are now ascending, is so - inconsiderable, and the current so much of a - stand, that I relinquished paying further attention - to its state. - 21 Most astonishing was the difference between the - height of the mercury at sunrise and at 4 P.M. - to-day. There was the difference of fifty-nine - degrees, and this in the space of eight hours, - yet we experience this wonderful transition - without feeling it near so sensibly as I should - have expected. - Nov. 3 A thick fog continued until 12 o’clock, at which - time it cleared off, and was fair the remainder - of the day. - 5 Commenced raining at 2 P.M. and continued at - intervals all day; saw fourteen striped snakes - to-day. - 7 A thick fog this morning which continued until - 11 A. M., at which time it cleared off, and - continued fair about two hours, and began to rain; - several showers during the evening. - 12 Violent wind from, the southwest, accompanied - with hail thunder and lightning, the thunder - excessively loud, which continued from 3 till - 6 A. M. when it cleared off for a short time; - afterwards a heavy rain succeeded, which lasted - until twelve o’clock, when it cleared off for an - hour, and again become cloudy; the rain has been - pretty generally falling since the 7th instant. - 15 The after part of this day is fair and calm, for the - first time since the 12th instant, and no rain. - 20 Rained moderately from 6 o’clock A. M. until 1 - P. M. on the 21st, after which it became cloudy, - without rain. - 22 The wind violent from the S. S. E. throwing the - water of the river over our camp, and rain - continued all day. - 26 Rained all day; some hard showers; wind not so - hard as it has been for a few days past; some - rain on the morning of the 23d, and night of - the 24th. instant. - 27 Rained moderately all day; a hard wind from the - southwest, which compelled us to lie by on the - isthmus of point William on the south side. - 28 The wind which was from the south west shifted in - the after part of the day to the northwest, and - blew a storm which was tremendous; rained all - the last night and to-day without intermission. - 29 Rained all last night hard, and to-day moderately. - 30 Rained and hailed at intervals throughout the last - night, some thunder and lightning. - Decr. 3 Fair from 12 to 3 P. M. rained all the last night - and this morning; rained the night of the 1st - and the morning of the 2nd, and cloudy the remainder - of the day; rained at intervals the night - of the 2nd instant, with constant, hard, and - sometimes violent winds. - 5 Rained yesterday, last night, and moderately to-day, - all day the wind violent. - 6 Rained all last night and to-day until 6 o’clock, at - which time it cleared away and became fair; the - winds also ceased to blow violent. - 7 Rained from ten to twelve last night; fair day; a hard - wind from the northwest, and a shower of rain - at 2 P. M. - 10 Rained all day, and the air cool; I returned from - the ocean; a violent wind last night from the - southwest; rained the greater part of the night - of the 8th, and all day the 9th instant. - 15 Rained at short intervals from the 10th instant, until - 8 A. M. to-day. - 16 Rained all the last night; cold wind violent from - the southwest, accompanied with rain. - 17 Rained all the last night and this morning until 9 - o’clock, when we had a shower of hail, which - lasted about an hour, and then cleared off. - 18 Rained, snowed, and hailed at intervals all the last - night; several showers of hail and snow until - meridian. - 19 Rained last night, and several showers of hail and - rain this evening; the air cool. - 20 Some rain and hail last night, rain continued until - 10 A. M. - 23 Rained all last night, and moderately all day, with - several showers of hail, accompanied with hard - claps of thunder &c.; rained 21st and 22d all - day and night. - 25 Rained at intervals last night and to-day. - 26 Rained and blew hard all last night and to-day; - some hard claps of thunder and sharp lightning. - 29 Rained moderately without much intermission from - the 26th until 7 A.M. this morning, hard wind - from southeast. - 30 Hard wind and some rain last night; to-day tolerably - fair. - 31 Rained last night and all this day. - 1806. - January 1 The changes of the weather are exceedingly sudden, - sometimes though seldom the sun is visible - for a few moments, the next it hails and rains, - then ceases and remains cloudy; the wind blows - and it again rains; the wind blows by squalls - most generally, and is almost invariably from - southwest; these vicissitudes of the weather - happen two, three or more times in half a day; - snake seen 25th December. - 3 The thunder and lightning of the last evening was - violent, a singular occurrence for the time of - year; the loss of my thermometer I most sincerely - regret. I am confident that the climate - here, is much warmer than in the same parallel - of latitude on the Atlantic ocean, though how - many degrees it is now out of my power to determine. - Since our arrival in this neighbourhood - on the 7th of November, we have experienced - one slight white frost only, which happened - on the morning of the 16th of that month; - we have yet seen no ice, and the weather is so - warm, that we are obliged to cure our meat - with smoke and fire to save it; we lost two parcels - by depending on the air to preserve it, - though it was cut in very thin slices, and - sufficiently exposed. - 10 Various flies and insects now alive and in motion. - 12 The wind from any quarter off the land or along the - northwest coast, causes the air to become much - cooler; every species of water fowl common to - this country at any season of the year, still continue - with us. - 14 Weather perfectly temperate, I never experienced - a winter so warm as the present has been. - 23 When the sun is said to shine, or the weather fair, - it is to be understood that it barely casts a shadow, - and that the atmosphere is hazy, of a milky - white colour. - 25 It is now perceptibly colder than it has been this - winter. - 26 The snow this evening is four and three-quarter - inches deep: the isicles continue suspended - from the eaves of the houses during the day; - it now appears something like winter, for the - first time this season. - 27 The sun shone more bright this morning than it has - done since our arrival at this place; the snow - since 4 P. M. yesterday, has increased to the - depth of six inches, and this morning is perceptibly - the coldest that we have had. I suspect - the mercury would stand at twenty degrees above - naught; the breath is perceptible in our room - by the fire. - 28 Last night exposed a vessel of water to the air, with - a view to discover the depth to which it would - frieze in the course of the night, but unfortunately - the vessel was only two inches deep, and - it friezed the whole thickness; how much more - it might have frozen had the vessel been deeper, - is therefore out of my power to decide; it is - the coldest night that we have had, and I suppose - the mercury this morning would have - stood as low as fifteen degrees above naught. - 31 Notwithstanding the cold weather, the swan, white - brant, geese and ducks still continue with us; - the sandhill crane also continues; the brown or - speckled brant are mostly gone, some few are - still to be seen; the cormorant, and a variety - of other water fowls still remain. The - winds from the land brings us cold and clear - weather, while those obliquely along either - coast or off the ocean brings us warm, damp, - cloudy and rainy weather; the hardest winds - are always from the southwest. The blue-crested - corvus has already began to build its nest; - the nest is formed of small sticks, usually - in a pine tree. - February 3 The rain which fell in the latter part of the night - froze, and made a slight incrustation on the - snow which fell some days past, and also on the - boughs of the trees &c.; yesterday it continued - fair until 11 A. M. when the wind veered about - to southwest, and the horizon was immediately - overcast with clouds, which uniformly takes - place when the wind is from that point. - 4 All the water-fowls before enumerated still continue - with us; the birds which resemble the robin - have now visited us in small numbers; saw - two of them yesterday about the fort; they are - gentle. - 8 The rain of the last night has melted down the - snow which has continued to cover the ground - since the 24th of January; the feeling of the air - and other appearances seem to indicate that - the rigor of the winter has passed; it is so - warm that we are apprehensive our meat will - spoil, we therefore cut it in small pieces and - hang it separately on sticks. Saw a number of - insects flying about: the small brown flycatch - continues with us; this is the smallest of all the - American birds except the humming-bird. - 15 The robbin has returned and is singing, which reminds - us of spring; some other small birds - passed on their flight from the south, but were - so high that we could not distinguish of what - kind they were; the robbin had left this place - before our arrival in November. - 16 At 11 A. M. it became fair, and the insects were - flying about; at half past 12 o’clock it clouded - up and began to rain. - 24 Much warmer this morning than usual; aquatic - and other birds, heretofore enumerated, continue - with us still; the sturgeon and a small fish - like the anchovy begin to run, they are taken - in the Columbia, about forty miles above us: the - anchovy is exquisitely fine. - 28 Saw a variety of insects in motion this morning, - some small bugs as well as flies; a brown fly - with long legs, about half the size of the common - house fly was the most numerous; this - is the first insect that has appeared; it is - generally about the sinks or filth of any kind; - the yellow and brown flycatch has returned, it - is a very small bird with a tail as long - proportionally as a sparrow. - March 1 A great part of this day was so warm, that fire was - unnecessary, notwithstanding its being cloudy - and raining. - 6 Saw a spider this morning, though the air is - perceptibly colder than it has been since the 1st - instant. At 9 A. M. it clouded up and continued - so the remainder of the day; even the easterly - winds which have heretofore given us the - only fair weather which we have enjoyed, seem - now to have lost their influence in this respect. - 7 The elk now begin to shed their horns. A bird of - a scarlet colour as large as a common pheasant - with a long tail has returned, one of them was - seen to-day near the fort by captain Clark’s - black man; I could not obtain a view of it. - 11 It became cloudy at 10 A. M. and rained attended - with some hail; at six P. M. it become fair, and - the wind changing to northeast it continued fair - during the night: the snow had all disappeared - by 4 P. M. this evening. - 12 It was fair in the morning, but became cloudy at 8 - P. M. and continued so during the day. - 13 Saw a number of insects in motion; among others - saw for the first time this spring and winter, a - downy black fly about the size of the common - house fly. The plants begin to appear above the - ground, among others the rush, of which the - natives eat the root, which resembles in flavor - the sweet potatoe. - 15 The sorrel with an oval, obtuse, and ternate leaf - has now put forth its leaves, some of them have - already nearly obtained their growth; the birds - were singing very agreeably this morning, - particularly the common robbin. - 16 The anchovy has ceased to run; the white salmon - trout have succeeded them; the weather is so - warm that insects of various species are every - day in motion. - 22 The leaves and petals of the flower of the green - huckleberry have appeared, some of the leaves - have already obtained one fourth of their size. - 24 The brown briery shrub with a broad pinnate leaf - has began to put forth its leaves; the polecat - calwort is in bloom; saw the blue-crested fisher; - birds are singing this morning; the black alder - is in bloom. - 25 The elder, gooseberry and honeysuckle are now - putting forth their leaves; the nettle and a - variety of other plants are springing up; the - flowers of the broad-leafed thorn are nearly - blown; several small plants in bloom. - 26 The humming-bird has appeared; killed one of - them and found it the same with those common - to the United States. - 27 The small or bank martin appeared to-day; saw - one large flock of them; water-fowl very scarce; - a few cormorant, geese, and the red-headed - fishing duck are all that are to be seen; the red - flowering currant are in bloom; this I take to - be the same species I first saw on the Rocky - mountains; the fruit is a deep purple berry, - covered with a gummy substance, and not - agreeably flavoured: there is another species - not covered with gum which I first found on the - waters of the Columbia, about the 12th of August - last. - 28 This evening we saw many swan passing to the - north as if on a long flight; vegetation is not - by several days as forward here as at fort Clatsop - when we left that place; the river rising - fast; the water is turbid; the tide only swells - the water a little, it does not stop the current; - it is now within two feet of its greatest height. - 30 The grass is about sixteen inches high in the river - bottoms; the frogs are now abundant. - April 1 From the best opinion I could form of the state of - the Columbia on the first of April, it was about - nine feet higher than when we descended it in - the beginning of November last. - 6 The cottonwood has put forth its leaves and begins - to assume a green appearance at a distance; - the sweet willow has not yet burst its bud, - while the leaves of the red and broad-leafed - willow are of some size; it appears to me to - be the most backward in vegetating of all the - willows; the narrow-leafed willow is not found - below tide-water on this river. - 8 The male flowers of the cottonwood are falling; the - gooseberry has cast the petals of its flowers, - and its leaves have obtained their full size; the - elder which is remarkably large, has began to - bloom, some of its flowrets have expanded their - corollas; the service-berries, choke-cherries, - the growth which resembles the beach, the - small birch and gray willow have put forth their - leaves. - 9 The vining honeysuckle has put forth shoots of - several inches; the dog-toothed violet is in - bloom, as is also both the species of the - mountain-holly, the strawberry, the bear’s-claw, - the cowslip, the violet, common striped, and the - wild cress or tongue grass. - 11 The geese are yet in large flocks and do not yet - appear to have mated; what I have heretofore - termed the broad-leafed ash, is now in bloom; - the fringe tree has cast the corolla and its leaves - have nearly obtained their full size; the saccacommis - is in bloom. - 12 The duckinmallard, which breed in the neighbourhood, - is now laying its eggs; vegetation is - rapidly progressing in the bottoms, though the - snow of yesterday and to-day reaches within a - mile of the base of the mountains at the rapids - of the Columbia. - 16 At the Rock-fort camp saw the prairie lark, a species - of the peaweet, the blue-crested fisher, the - party-coloured corvus, and the black pheasant; - a species of hyacinth, native of this place, bloomed - to-day; it was not in bloom yesterday. - 25 The last evening was cloudy; it continued to - threaten rain all night, but without raining; - the wind blew hard all night, the air cold, as - it is invariably when it sets from the westerly - quarter. - May 1 Having left the river we could no longer observe - its state, it is now declining, though it has not - been as high this season by five feet as it appears - to have been the last spring; the Indians - inform us that it will rise higher in this month, - which I presume is caused by the snows of the - mountains. - 3 The mountains on our right seem to have had an - increase of snow last evening. - 10 It began to rain and hail about sunset this evening, - which was shortly after succeeded by snow; - it continued to fall without intermission until 7 - A. M. and lay 8 inches deep on the plain where - we were; the air was very keen; a sudden transition - this day; yesterday the face of the country - had every appearance of summer; after nine - A. M. the sun shone, but was frequently obscured - by clouds which gave us light showers of - snow; in the after part of the day the snow melted - considerably, but there was too great a - portion to be dissipated by the influence of one - day’s sun. - 11 The crimson haw is not more forward now at this - place than it was when we lay at Rock-fort - camp in April. - 20 A nest of the large blue or sandhill crane was - found by one of our hunters; the young were - in the act of leaving the shell; the young of - the party coloured corvus begin to fly. - 22 The air is remarkably dry and pure, it has much - the feeling and appearance of the air in the - plains of the Missouri: since our arrival in this - neighbourhood on the 7th instant all the rains - noted in the diary of the weather were snows - on the plain, and in some instances it snowed - on the plains when only a small mist was perceptible - in the bottoms at our camp. - 27 The dove is cooing, which is the signal, as the Indians - inform us of the approach of the salmon. - The snow has disappeared on the high plains, - and seems to be diminishing fast on the spurs - and lower regions of the Rocky mountains. - 28 The river from sunrise yesterday to sunrise this - morning rose one foot ten inches; driftwood - running in considerable quantities, and the current - incredibly swift though smooth. - 29 The river rose six inches in the course of - yesterday, and one foot five inches in the - course of the last night; it is now as high as - there are any marks of its having been in the - spring 1805; at ten A. M. it arrived at its greatest - height, having rose one and a half inches - from sunrise to that time; in the balance of the - day it fell seven inches; the natives inform us - that it will take one more rise before it begins - to subside for the season, and then the passage - of the mountains will be practicable. - 30 The river continued to fall until 4 A. M. having - fallen three inches by that time since sunrise; - it was now at a stand until dark, after which it - began again to rise. - June 2 The river from sunrise until 10 A. M. yesterday - rose one and a half inches, from that time until - dark fell four and a half inches, and in the - course of last night rose again eight inches--the - Indians inform us that the present rise is the - greatest which it annually takes; that when the - water subsides to about the height it was at the - time we arrived here, the mountains will be - passable. I have no doubt but the melting of - the mountain snows in the beginning of June - is what causes the annual inundation of the - lower portion of the Missouri from the first to - the middle of July. - 4 Yesterday the water was at its greatest height at - noon, between that time and dark it fell fifteen - inches, and in the course of the night rose - one and a half inches; from the Indian information - the water will now subside, and may therefore - be said to be at its greatest annual height - on the 3rd instant at noon. - 5 The river fell three and a half inches in the course - of the day; this fluctuating state of the river is - no doubt caused by the influence of the sun in - the course of the day on the snows on the - mountains; the accession of water thus caused - in the day does not reach us until night, when - it produces a rise in the river. The wild rose - is in bloom. The river fell ten inches in the - course of this day. - 6 In the course of last night the river rose a little, - but fell an inch by morning lower than it was last - evening; the seven bark and the yellow vining - honeysuckle are just in bloom; a few of the - does have produced their young. - 7 The river fell three inches last night and seven - yesterday; the gooseberry is fully grown; also, - the serviceberry. - 10 The river fell one inch last night and five and a half - yesterday; it appears to be falling fast, and in the - course of a few days will be as low as it was when - we first arrived here; it is now about six feet lower - than it has been. - 16 On the top of the hills the dog-tooth violet is just - in bloom, grass about two inches high; small - huckleberry just putting forth its leaves. - 22 Strawberries ripe at the Quamash flats; they are but - small and not abundant. - 29 The quamash and strawberries are just beginning to - bloom at the flats on the head of the Kooskooskee - river. The sunflower is also just beginning to bloom, - which is two months later than those on the sides of - the western mountains near the falls of the Columbia. - July 5 A dew this morning; the nights are cool; the - musquetoes are troublesome until a little after dark - when the air becomes cool, and the musquetoes - disappear. - 6 I arrived in an open plain in the middle of which a - violent wind from the northwest accompanied with - hard rain lasted from four until half past five P. M. - Quamash in those plains at the head of Wisdom river - is just beginning to bloom, and the grass is about - six inches high. - 7 A small shower of rain at 4 this morning was companied - with wind from the S.S.W. - 8 A heavy shower of rain was accompanied with wind from - the southwest from four to five P. M. - 9 Last night it was very cold and wind hard from the - northeast; the river is twelve inches higher than it - was last summer; there is more snow on the adjacent - mountains than was at that time. - 10 A large white frost last night; the air extremely - cold; ice three quarters of an inch thick on - standing water. - 11 A slight frost last night; the air cool; the - musquetoes retired a little after dark, and did not - return until about an hour after sunrise. - 12 A heavy shower of rain accompanied with hail, thunder - and lightning at 2 A. M. with hard wind from the - southwest; after the shower was over it cleared away - and became fair. - 20 The river Rochejhone falls about half an inch in - twenty-four hours, and becomes much clearer than - above. The grasshoppers are extremely numerous, and - have destroyed every species of grass from one to - ten miles above on the river, and a great distance - back. - 22 A few drops of rain last night at dark, the cloud - appeared to hang to the southwest: wind blew hard - from different points from five to eight P. M. at - which time it thundered and lightened. The river by - eleven A. M. to-day had risen fifteen inches, and - the water was of a milky white colour. - 23 The river has fallen within the last twenty-four hours - seven inches. The wind was violent from the - southwest for about three hours last night, from one - to three A. M. - 24 River falling a little; it is six feet lower than the - highest appearance of its rise; rained from three to - four P.M. but slightly; the wind violent from the - southwest. - 25 Several showers of rain with hard wind from the south - and southwest the fore part of the day. The brooks - on each side are high and the water muddy. - 26 A slight shower this morning: with hard wind from the - southwest. The river falling but very slowly, one - inch in twenty-four hours. - 28 A few drops of rain a little before daylight. River - still falling a little. - 29 A few drops of rain accompanied with hard peals of - thunder and sharp lightning last night: wind hard - from the northeast. - 30 A slight shower of rain accompanied with thunder and - lightning: several showers in the course of this - day; it cleared away in the evening and became fair. - River falling a little. Great quantities of coal in - the bluffs on either side. - 31 The wind blew hard and it was showery all day, though - there was not much rain: the clouds came up from the - west and northwest frequently in the course of the - day. - August 22 The rains which have fallen in this month are most - commonly from flying clouds which pass in different - directions; those clouds are always accompanied - with hard winds and sometimes with thunder and - lightning. The river has been falling moderately - since the third of the month; the rains have made no - other impression on the river than causing it to be - more muddy, and probably preventing its falling fast. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of the Expedition Under the -Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION *** - -***** This file should be named 52442-0.txt or 52442-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/4/4/52442/ - -Produced by Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, The Filson Historical -Society and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by the Library of Congress) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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