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diff --git a/old/52285-h/52285-h.htm b/old/52285-h/52285-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 1418b80..0000000 --- a/old/52285-h/52285-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13259 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mungo Park and the Niger, by Joseph Thomson. - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} - -.hanging { - margin-left: 1em; - text-indent: -1em; -} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%} - -ul.index { list-style-type: none; } -li.ifrst { margin-top: 1em; } -li.indx { margin-top: .5em; } -li.isub1 {text-indent: 1em;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - - .tdr {text-align: right;} -.tdpn { - text-align: right; - padding-left: 2em; -} -.tddo { - text-align: center; - padding-left: 2em; -} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - font-style: normal; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.right {text-align: right;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.caption { - text-align: center; - font-weight: bold; -} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: small; - text-decoration: - none; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poem { - display: inline-block; - text-align: left; -} - -.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - .poem div.i0 {margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - -.large {font-size: large;} -.xlarge {font-size: x-large;} -.small {font-size: small;} -.smaller {font-size: smaller;} - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mungo Park and the Niger, by Joseph Thomson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Mungo Park and the Niger - -Author: Joseph Thomson - -Release Date: June 9, 2016 [EBook #52285] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUNGO PARK AND THE NIGER *** - - - - -Produced by Sonya Schermann, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> - -<h2>The World’s Great Explorers -and Explorations.</h2> - -<p class="hanging">Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Scott Keltie</span>, Librarian, Royal Geographical Society; -<span class="smcap">H. J. Mackinder</span>, M.A., Reader in Geography at the University -of Oxford; and <span class="smcap">E. G. Ravenstein</span>, F.R.G.S.</p> - -<h1>MUNGO PARK AND THE NIGER.</h1> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p> -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_002" src="images/i_002.png" width="478" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MUNGO PARK.</p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> -<p class="center xlarge">MUNGO PARK AND THE NIGER.</p> - -<p class="center p2">BY<br /> -<span class="large">JOSEPH THOMSON,</span><br /> -AUTHOR OF “THROUGH MASAI LAND,” ETC.</p> - -<p class="center p4"><span class="large">NEW YORK<br /> -DODD, MEAD & COMPANY</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">Publishers</span> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="EDITORIAL_PREFACE" id="EDITORIAL_PREFACE">EDITORIAL PREFACE.</a></h2> - -<p>The story of the world’s exploration is always attractive. -We naturally take a keen interest in the personality -of the men who have dared to force their way -into the unknown, and so unveiled to us the face of -mother earth. The interest in the work of exploration -has been particularly strong and widespread in recent -years, and it is believed that a series of volumes dealing -with the great explorers and explorations of the past -is likely to prove welcome to a wide circle of readers. -Without a knowledge of what has been accomplished, -the results of the unprecedented exploring activity of -the present cannot be understood. It is hoped, therefore, -that the present series will supply a real want. -With one or two exceptions, each volume will deal -mainly with one leading explorer, bringing out prominently -the man’s personality, telling the story of his -life, and showing in full detail what he did for the exploration -of the world. When it may be necessary to -depart somewhat from the general plan, it will always -be kept in view that the series is essentially a popular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span> -one. When complete the series will form a Biographical -History of Geographical Discovery.</p> - -<p>The Editors congratulate themselves on having been -able to secure the co-operation of men well known as -the highest authorities in their own departments; their -names are too familiar to the public to require introduction. -Each writer is of course entirely responsible -for his own work.</p> - -<p class="right">THE EDITORS. -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</a></h2> - -<table summary="Contents"> -<tr><td class="tdr small">CHAP.</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr small">PAGE</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">I. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_I">THE FIRST GLIMMERING OF LIGHT</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">1</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">II. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_II">MORE LIGHT: THE ARAB PERIOD</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">6</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">III. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_III">OPENING UP THE WAY TO THE NIGER</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">19</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">IV. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">PREPARING FOR PARK: THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">31</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">V. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_V">MUNGO PARK</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">36</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">VI. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">AT THE THRESHOLD</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">46</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">VII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">FROM THE GAMBIA TO THE SENEGAL</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">53</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">VIII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">ACROSS THE SENEGAL BASIN</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">65</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">IX. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">TO LUDAMAR</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">76</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">X. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CAPTIVITY IN LUDAMAR</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">85</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XI. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">TO THE NIGER</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">97</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">DOWN THE RIVER TO SILLA</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">107</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XIII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">THE RETURN THROUGH BAMBARRA</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">120</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XIV. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">REST AT KAMALIA</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">134</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XV. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">THE SLAVE ROUTE</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">143</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XVI. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">BACK TO THE GAMBIA AND HOME</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">154</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XVII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">MUNGO PARK AT HOME</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">164</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XVIII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">MUNGO PARK AT HOME—(<i>continued</i>)</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">175</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XIX. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">PREPARING FOR A NEW EXPEDITION</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">186</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XX. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">PARK’S SECOND RETURN TO THE GAMBIA</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">196</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXI. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">STILL STRUGGLING TOWARDS THE GREAT RIVER</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">208</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">TO THE NIGER</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">221</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXIII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">THE LAST OF PARK</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">233</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXIV. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">THE FULAH REVOLUTION</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">246</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXV. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">NEW ENTERPRISES AND NEW THEORIES</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">254</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXVI. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">THE TERMINATION OF THE NIGER</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">264</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXVII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">THE TERMINATION OF THE NIGER—(<i>continued</i>)</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">277</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXVIII. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">FILLING UP THE DETAILS</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">288</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXIX. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">THE FRENCH ADVANCE TO THE NIGER</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">301</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXX. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">THE ROYAL NIGER COMPANY</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">307</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">XXXI. </td> -<td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">THE ROYAL NIGER COMPANY—(<i>continued</i>)</a></td> -<td class="tdpn">319</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr"><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdpn">333</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.</a></h2> - -<h3><i>FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></h3> - -<table summary="Full-page Illustrations"> -<tr><td class="tdr">1. </td> -<td><a href="#i_002">Portrait of Mungo Park</a></td> -<td class="tdpn" colspan="2"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">2. </td> -<td><a href="#i_053">Facsimile Extract of Letter from Mungo Park to Dr. Anderson</a></td> -<td class="tddo"><i>facing page</i></td> -<td class="tdr"> 42</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">3. </td> -<td><a href="#i_127">Bambarra Women Pounding Corn</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 112</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">4. </td> -<td><a href="#i_145">Bammaku</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 128</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">5. </td> -<td><a href="#i_163">Baobab Tree</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 144</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">6. </td> -<td><a href="#i_201">Facsimile Extract of Mungo Park’s Letter to his Wife</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 180</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">7. </td> -<td><a href="#i_235">Rock Scenery of the Upper Senegal</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 212</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">8. </td> -<td><a href="#i_290">Portrait of Captain Clapperton</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 265</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">9. </td> -<td><a href="#i_302">View in Sokoto</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 275</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">10. </td> -<td><a href="#i_315">Akassa</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 286</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">11. </td> -<td><a href="#i_323">Timbuktu</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 292</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">12. </td> -<td><a href="#i_355">Traders’ House, Abutshi</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 322</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">13. </td> -<td><a href="#i_365">Haussa Village</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 330</td></tr> -</table> - -<h3><i>ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.</i></h3> - -<table summary="Illustrations in Text"> -<tr><td><a href="#i_047">Birthplace of Mungo Park</a></td> -<td class="tddo"><i>page</i></td> -<td class="tdr"> 37</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_229">Mungo Park’s Encampment</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 207</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_271">Group of Fulahs</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 247</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_310">Portrait of Richard Lander</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 282</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_326">View on the Niger above Lokoja</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 294</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_360">Haussa Hut</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 326</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_362">Portrait of the Sultan of Sokoto’s Brother</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 328</td></tr> -</table> - -<h3><i>MAPS (Printed in Colours).</i></h3> - -<table summary="Maps"> -<tr><td class="tdr">I. </td> -<td><a href="#i_009">Guinea</a></td> -<td class="tddo"><i>facing page</i></td> -<td class="tdr"> 1</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">II. </td> -<td><a href="#i_060">Mungo Park’s Travels</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 47</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">III. </td> -<td><a href="#i_377">Libya Secundum Ptolomæum, A.C. 130</a></td> -<td class="tddo" colspan="2"><i>at end</i></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">IV. </td> -<td><a href="#i_379">Edrisi’s Africa, 1154</a></td> -<td class="tddo" colspan="2">„</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">V. </td> -<td><a href="#i_381">Catalan, Map of the World, Western Half, 1375</a></td> -<td class="tddo" colspan="2">„</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">VI. </td> -<td><a href="#i_383">Guinea and the Sudan, according to D’Anville, 1749</a></td> -<td class="tddo" colspan="2">„</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdr">VII. </td> -<td><a href="#i_385">Guinea and the Sudan, according to J. Rennell, 1798</a></td> -<td class="tddo" colspan="2">„</td></tr> -</table> - -<h3><i>MAPS IN TEXT.</i></h3> - -<table summary="Maps in Text"> -<tr><td><a href="#i_034">O. Dapper, Nigritarum Regio, 1671</a></td> -<td class="tddo"><i>page</i></td> -<td class="tdr"> 24</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_035">O. Dapper, 1671</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 25</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_207">Reduced Fac-simile of Mungo Park’s Autograph Map</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 185</td></tr> - -<tr><td><a href="#i_265">The Bussa Rapids</a></td> -<td class="tddo">„</td> -<td class="tdr"> 241</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_009_large.jpg"><img id="i_009" src="images/i_009.jpg" width="600" height="348" alt="Map: GUINEA" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="MUNGO_PARK_AND_THE_NIGER" id="MUNGO_PARK_AND_THE_NIGER">MUNGO PARK AND THE NIGER.</a></h2> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE FIRST GLIMMERING OF LIGHT.</i></span></h2> - -<p>To find the first allusion to the River Niger we have -to go back to the very dawn of history.</p> - -<p>Many centuries before the Christian era the spirit of -geographical inquiry was abroad. There were then, as -in later times, ardent minds whose eager curiosity would -not let them rest content with a knowledge of their own -countries. Then, as in the Middle Ages, kings and emperors -thirsted for political aggrandisement, merchants -for new sources of wealth, and enterprising spirits for -opportunities to do deeds of high emprise which would -send their names down to posterity.</p> - -<p>Phœnicia, Greece, Carthage, Rome, had each its bold -navigators and travellers, whose explorations can be -more or less credibly gleaned from the mass of fable -and misrepresentation which time and ignorance have -gathered round them.</p> - -<p>Even in those early days—twenty or more centuries -ago—Africa was the chief centre of attraction to such as -longed to extend their possessions or their knowledge of -the earth’s surface. Already the mystery of the Nile<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> -and Inner Africa beyond the Great Desert had asserted -its fascination over men’s minds. The Mediterranean -nations vied with each other in sending expedition after -expedition to explore the coast-line, and if possible -circumnavigate the continent. Of these some ventured -by way of the Straits of Gibraltar—the Pillars of -Hercules, as they were then called—while others tried -the Red Sea and the eastern coast. What these ancient -mariners actually accomplished has been for centuries a -matter of keen dispute, with but small clearing up of -the obscure horizon. It is not therefore for us to enter -into the debatable land, and happily the questions involved -lie outside our province. Sufficient for our purpose -is it to know that very extensive voyages were -undertaken along both the east and west coasts of -Africa. Among the most noteworthy and credible of -these is the expedition sent by Necho, King of Egypt, -with Phœnician navigators, which is said to have accomplished -the circumnavigation of the continent; and the -Carthaginian expedition of Hanno, which undoubtedly -explored the western coast for a very considerable distance -towards the equator.</p> - -<p>But the enterprise of the Mediterranean nations was -not confined only to the coast-line. The commercial -spirit of Carthage and the warlike genius of Rome alike -led them to seek the interior.</p> - -<p>In this direction, however, each was fated to be as -effectually checked as their sailors had been by sea. The -burning heat, the wide stretches of barren sand, the waterless -wastes, and the savage nomads which they had to -encounter, were as terrible to face as the huge waves and -frightful storms of the Atlantic. To the natural terrors -of this desert region, forsaken of the gods, their imagi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>nation -added every conceivable monstrosity, so that he -indeed was a bold man who ventured from the gay and -pleasant confines of the northern lands into the awful -horrors of the Sahara.</p> - -<p>Yet men there must have been, whether warriors, -merchants, or simple explorers, we know not, who -crossed the dreaded desert zone, and reached the more -fertile countries of the negroes which lay beyond. In -the pages of Herodotus and Strabo, of Pliny and of -Ptolemy, amid all the mythological absurdities and -ridiculous stories with which they abound, we find not -only ample evidence of such successful adventure, but -a wonderfully just estimate of the physical conditions -which characterised the region lying between the Mediterranean -and the Sudan. They describe first a zone of -sharply contrasted fertility and barrenness, of green oasis -and repellent desert, scantily inhabited by wild, roving -tribes. Next comes a more terrible region lying further -to the south—a land of desolation and death, swept by -the wild sirocco and sandstorm, burnt by fierce relentless -suns, unrefreshed by sparkling earth-born springs, -unmoistened by the heaven-sent rain or by the gentle -dew of night. Beyond lies a third region—the land of -the negroes—made fertile by spring and stream, by -marsh and lake.</p> - -<p>More remarkable still is the fact that in each of the -writers mentioned we find clear indications of a knowledge -of a great river running through Negroland.</p> - -<p>With minds on the search for a solution of the Nile -problems—its origin, its course, and the mystery of its -annual overflow—and from the likelihood that some of -their informants had actually seen this river when it -ran in an easterly direction, the opinion generally<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> -adopted by the ancients was that the river of the -negroes was the Nile itself.</p> - -<p>Of the various sources of information upon which the -classical writers depended for their descriptions of these -savage lands we know but little. One there is, however, -which stands out with wonderful clearness and prominence -and a general air of credibility—the expedition -of the Nasamones as related by Herodotus.</p> - -<p>The Nasamones—five young men of distinction, doubtless -without suitable outlets for their ambitions and -energies at home—set out from their native country -to the south-west of Egypt, bent on the exploration -of the heart of Africa.</p> - -<p>Travelling partly south and partly west, they crossed -the semi-inhabited, semi-sterile zone. Arrived at the -confines of the great desert, they collected provisions -and supplied themselves with water, and bold in heart -“to seek, to conquer, or to die,” plunged into the terrible -unknown. For many weary days they pursued -their quest with unabated courage and perseverance. -At length they emerged from the region of desolation -and death, and found themselves in a fertile country -inhabited by pigmies, having abundance of fruit trees, -and watered by vast lakes and marshes. Furthermore, -they found a large river flowing from west to -east.</p> - -<p>Whether these enterprising young African explorers -had reached the neighbourhood of Lake Chad, as we -might be disposed to believe, or the Niger in the vicinity -of the great bend of the main stream, it would be waste -of time to ask. Let us be satisfied with knowing that -at this very early period of the world’s history, many -centuries before the Christian era, the Central or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> -Western Sudan of our days was reached, and the fact -established that through it ran a great river.</p> - -<p>In this way the exploration of Central Africa was -inaugurated—the first uncertain glimmer of light thrown -upon its dark surface; and the River Niger revealed to -the world to be a theme of discussion to arm-chair -geographers, and a goal to be aimed at by the more -adventurous spirits who would realise their thoughts -in deeds rather than on paper.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>MORE LIGHT: THE ARAB PERIOD.</i></span></h2> - -<p>For many centuries but little was added to the knowledge -of Africa acquired by the early classical writers. -Carthage fell from its high estate, and on its ruins -Rome, with boundless ambition and seemingly boundless -powers of attainment, built for itself a new and -equally magnificent African Empire. But where man -could not stay the advancing tide, Nature set bounds -to the force of Roman arms, and at the borders of -the desert mutely said, “Thus far shalt thou go, and -no further.”</p> - -<p>The Roman power rose to the zenith of its glory, -and still the desert remained uncrossed; it dwindled -towards its fall, and then its days of geographical conquest -were over. In Northern Africa, as elsewhere, -the mythological gave place to the Christian era, and -the influence of the new religion spread apparently to -the remotest desert tribes. It was not, however, fated -to be permanent. In the seventh century a new prophet -had risen in the Sacred East, and the seeds of a mighty -revolution were germinating in the deserts of Arabia. -The boundaries of its parent country soon proved too -small for the astonishing vitalities and ardent missionary -enterprise of the new faith—the faith of Islam. Bursting -out, it pushed with incredible rapidity along the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> -north of Africa, overwhelming Paganism and Christianity -alike in its irresistible course, till reaching the -Atlantic it turned to north and south in search of new -fields to conquer for God. The natural difficulties which -had stopped the southern progress of the Carthaginians -and the Romans formed no barrier to a people born in -a desert. In the plateau lands of the Berber tribes the -Arabs were at home. Winged with a fiery enthusiasm -which nothing could withstand, and inspired by a hope -of heaven which nothing could shake, they swept from -district to district, from tribe to tribe, everywhere carrying -the blazing torch of Islam, everywhere striking -fire from the roving people with whom they came in -contact, till from every Saharan oasis there was heard -the common cry, “There is no God but the one God.” -In the new conflagration Christian symbols and Pagan -idols alike disappeared in one fell holocaust.</p> - -<p>To a race so educated and nurtured, so steeped in -fiery ardour and unquenchable faith, and so imbued -with the paramount importance of their mission—provided, -moreover, as regards the practical part of their -work, with the drought-enduring camel, hitherto unknown -in Africa—the so-called impassable desert was -no barrier to the performance of the task divinely set -them. Only for him who turned back did hell yawn. -For him who went forward it might be death, but it -was death with Paradise gained.</p> - -<p>In this spirit the terrors of the Sahara were faced, -and faced only to be conquered; and ere the ninth -century gave place to the tenth, the land of the negroes -was reached, and the forces of Islam set themselves in -array against those of heathendom. For the first time -the Niger basin was now brought into direct relation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> -with Northern Africa. The actual time when this was -accomplished is still a matter of some doubt, though the -statement is quoted by Barth that within less than a -hundred years of the commencement of the Mohammedan -era, schools and mosques were established in the -negro kingdom of Ghana or Ghanata, to the west of -Timbuktu. More incontestable is the statement of the -Arab writer, Ebn Khaldun (<span class="small">A.D.</span> 1380), that trading -relations existed about 280 <span class="small">A.H.</span> or 893 <span class="small">A.D.</span> between -the Upper Niger and Northern Africa. When these -were first established we are not informed.</p> - -<p>The vital forces which had found no barrier in the -fierce nomads and physical difficulties of the Sahara, -and had carried the disciples of Mohammed to the -borders of the Sudan, met a check to their sweeping -progress where one would have least expected it. Half -the secret of the success of Islam had been that -principle in the creed which was calculated to attract -and inflame the ardent imaginations and easily excited -temperaments of the Berber tribes of the north. With -these Mohammedanism required but little aid from fire -and sword for the spread of its tenets. It had but to -be preached to be believed, making every hearer not -only a convert but a missionary aflame with enthusiasm -for the cause of God and Mohammed. Such, however, -was not the case when Islam came face to face with the -undeveloped lethargic minds of the barbarous blacks of -the Sudan. The intellect of the negro had to be prepared -for the reception of the new spiritual doctrines.</p> - -<p>For a time a hard and fast line existed between Islam -and Heathendom more or less closely coinciding with -that drawn between Berber and Negro, Sahara and -Sudan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> - -<p>Only for a time, however. Though the new religious -force could sweep on no longer in an irresistible, all-embracing -tide, it was not to be prevented from gradually -working its way into the sodden mass of Paganism. -Along the whole line of opposing forces from Senegambia -to Lake Chad, Mohammedan missionaries penetrated, -not with fire and sword and all the horrors of -brute force, but armed with the spiritual weapons of faith, -hope, and ardent enthusiasm. Under their fostering -care schools and mosques arose, around which converts -gathered in ever-increasing numbers, until at length -every region had its leavening germs, and awaited but -the proper moment and the inspired leader to raise the -watchword of Islam, and once more sweep onward with -all the accumulated force of the dammed back torrent.</p> - -<p>Within a short time of each other two such leaders -appeared at opposite points of the Niger basin. In -the west, near the great bend of the Niger, a king of -Songhay embraced Islam about the year 1000, while -near the close of the same century a king of Bornu -followed his example.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<p>From those dates a new and more promising era commenced -for the Central and Western Sudan. Under the -fostering care and impulse of the new religion these -backward regions commenced an upward progress. A -new and powerful bond drew the scattered congeries -of tribes together and welded them into powerful communities. -Their moral and spiritual well-being increased -by leaps and bounds, and their political and social life -took an altogether higher level. The arts and industries -of the North speedily became established among them, -and with them came the love of decent dress, of cleanli<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>ness, -of more orderly conduct. Whatever might be said -of Mohammedanism in its final influence, there could be -no question but that it had the amount of good in it -necessary to raise a barbarous people to a higher level of -civilisation. There was an adaptability and a simplicity -about it well suited to the comprehension of untutored -minds, and in that lay the secret of a success such as -has never since been even distantly approached by any -other propagandist religion in Africa.</p> - -<p>To the rulers of Songhay and Bornu the watchword of -Islam, “There is no God but the one God,” soon became -a war-cry destined to be irresistible in its magic influence. -Armed with the new spiritual force these hitherto -barbarous kingdoms rose to extraordinary heights of -power. Songhay gradually spread its influence over all -the upper reaches of the Niger till it had absorbed the -old kingdoms of Ghanata, to the north of the Niger, and -Melli, to the south. With the political influences of -Songhay went the religious forces at its back. At times -there were checks to its military power, but only when -the religious enthusiasm and missionary ardour of its -rulers temporarily sank and were outstripped by the -greater zeal of neighbouring princes. With these exceptions, -the history of Songhay was that of general progress, -political, social, and commercial. The kingdom reached -the zenith of its power at the beginning of the sixteenth -century under a powerful negro king named Hadj -Mohammed Askia, whose rule extended from the centre -of the present empire of Sokoto to the borders of the -Atlantic, a distance from east to west of 1500 miles, -and from Mosi in the south as far as the oasis of Tawat -in the north, <i>i.e.</i>, something over 1000 miles.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> - -<p>Askia was no mere warrior anxious for his own -aggrandisement. As was the case with all the great -Sudanese rulers of those early days, he was noted for -his ardent faith as well as for his love of justice and -clemency, so that, as his historian, Ahmed Baba of Timbuktu, -wrote of him, “God made use of his services in -order to save the true believers (in Negroland) from -their sufferings and calamities.” He built mosques and -schools, and did everything in his power to encourage -learning; and not unmindful of the material prosperity -of his people, encouraged merchants from all parts of -the Sudan, the Sahara, and North Africa. Thus not -only was he loved and revered by his subjects, but his -fame extended to the most distant countries.</p> - -<p>Unhappily the magnificent empire thus founded had -not the elements of stability. There was too much of -the one man power, with no firm governmental foundations -apart from the ruler. In consequence, the history -of Songhay was one of varying fortunes. Old kingdoms -such as Melli temporarily regained their independence, -distant provinces were continually breaking loose, and -there were constant wars of succession and military -revolts. But though often scotched it was never killed, -till an altogether new enemy appeared in the person -of Mulai Hamed, Sultan of Morocco, before whose -musketeers it was doomed to become extinct as an -independent kingdom. This happened in 1591, in the -reign of Askia Ishak. Ahmed Baba, the native historian, -who lived at the time, and was himself not only -a material sufferer, but a prisoner carried off to Morocco, -said of this terrible disaster: “Thus this Mahalla (or -expedition) at that period found in Sudan (Songhay) one -of those countries of the earth which are most favoured<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> -with comfort, plenty, peace, and prosperity everywhere; -such was the working of the government of the Emir el -Mumenin, Askia el Hadj Mohammed ben Abu Bakr, in -consequence of his justice and the power of his royal -command, which took full and peremptory effect, not -only in his capital (Gogo), but in all the districts of -his whole empire, from the province of Dendi to the -frontier of Morocco, and from the territory of Bennendugu -(to the south of Jinni) as far as Zeghaza and -Tawat. But in a moment all was changed, and peaceful -repose was succeeded by a constant state of fear, -comfort and security by troubles and suffering; ruin -and misfortune took the place of prosperity, and people -began everywhere to fight against each other, and property -and life became exposed to constant danger; and -this ruin began, spread, increased, and at length prevailed -throughout the whole region.”<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> If it be remembered -that this was written in Arabic by a Niger native -at the end of the sixteenth or beginning of the seventeenth -centuries about a negro sultan ruling over a -kingdom partly negro and partly Berber, the wonder of -it cannot but strike the thoughtful mind.</p> - -<p>But in the Niger basin Songhay was not the only -centre of marvellous political and social development -under the influence of Mohammedanism. Bornu was -in every sense its rival. We have already seen that -towards the close of the eleventh century the king of -Bornu (Dunama ben Humé) had embraced Islam. The -result of the union of material power with spiritual inspiration -was soon made manifest, for before Ben Humé -died he had founded a vigorous empire whose influence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> -was felt as far as Egypt. It was not, however, till the -middle of the thirteenth century that Bornu rose to its -greatest power and the zenith of its glory under the -able rule of one Dibalami Dunama Selmami. At that -time Bornu, or, as it was sometimes called, Kameni (?), -which was then the seat of government, extended from -the Nile to the Niger, and from Mabina (Adamawa?) -in the south to Wadan in the north, according to Imam -Ahmed (1571-1603), the native historian of Bornu, as -Ahmed Baba had been that of Songhay. But Dunama -did not only increase the material power of Bornu. -Like Askia of Songhay, he encouraged religion, so that -“the true faith in his time was largely disseminated,” -according to Ebn Said (1282), an Arab writer.</p> - -<p>After Dunama’s death troublesome times fell upon -the empire, and a long period of civil wars and disastrous -expeditions followed. Brighter times came back with -the ascent of Ali (1472) to the throne, and once more -Bornu regained its former grandeur. It is clear that -Ali’s kingdom extended far to the west of the Niger, -and became known to the Portuguese, who as far back -as 1489 show Bernu or Bornu on their maps.</p> - -<p>Under the two succeeding reigns of Edris and Mohammed, -Bornu still further added to its importance, and -had relations with the northern sultans of Tripoli.</p> - -<p>The most remarkable, however, of all the Bornu rulers -seems to have been Edris Alawoma (1571-1603), who -had the advantage of having a contemporary biographer -in the person of Imam Ahmed. This prince seems not -only to have been an enterprising and able warrior, but -was distinguished alike for mildness and justice, and for -far-seeing statesmanship. Under him the empire grew -to enormous proportions, and included almost the whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> -of the Central and much of the Western Sudan. At -the same time the country became more prosperous, the -wealth of the towns increased, and the Mohammedan -religion and education spread widely and rapidly.</p> - -<p>Happily Bornu was established on a more stable basis -than Songhay. It had more cohesion in its various -elements, and was less dependent on the warlike character -of its rulers to keep it from falling to pieces. Its -princes also seem to have been of a better and more -liberal-minded stock. We even gather from the native -chronicles that they were “learned, liberal towards the -Ilama, prodigal dispensers of alms, friends of science and -religion, gracious and compassionate towards the poor.” -Hence it was that while Songhay and other states -rose and fell, Bornu retained its position and independence. -In the beginning of this century it experienced -a temporary eclipse before the conquering arms of the -Fillani in their mission of religious regeneration, but -only to emerge again as vigorous as ever, though now -restricted in its political influence to Bornu proper and -the immediate neighbourhood of Lake Chad.</p> - -<p>But while Songhay and Bornu were for centuries -working out their remarkable political, religious, social, -and commercial development, they were, as we have -already pointed out, by no means shut off from intercourse -with the outside world. The thirst for the slaves -of Bornu and for the gold of Melli and the Upper Niger -was almost as potent a force with the later generations -of Arabs as was religious zeal among their ancestors. -For the one as for the other all the terrors of the desert -route were braved, and constant communication kept -up with the Sudan. At first Egypt seems to have been -the first point of departure of the Sudanese caravan, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> -route passing westward to Songhay and the region of the -Upper Niger, while another diverged from it, and passed -south to the Chad basin. In later times Egypt gave -place to Tripoli as the starting-point, though practically -the same routes were utilised to reach the same goals. -At an early period also the most dangerous part of the -whole Sahara, that region, namely, lying between the -Upper Niger and Morocco, was traversed by indefatigable -Moorish traders for the sake of its slaves and gold. -The terminus of their route was at first considerably -to the west of Timbuktu, at a place called Biru or -Walata, where, indeed, nearly all the western trans-Saharan -traffic converged in the earlier days of commercial -intercourse.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of the eleventh century Timbuktu -was founded as a trading station by the Tuaregs of the -Sahara, but it was not until it fell into the hands of a -powerful king of Melli some two centuries later that -it became a place of some importance. At once it developed -into an international market of the first rank, -where merchants from Egypt, Tripoli, Morocco, the -Saharan oases, and the Sudan met to exchange their -various articles of barter.</p> - -<p>At no time was Timbuktu the capital of a great kingdom. -Its greatness solely depended upon its trade, and -its convenience as a collecting and dispersing centre. -That it should have become so well known above all the -places of the Sudan is easily understood if it be remembered -that it was the goal for which all the merchants -of Northern Africa aimed. Politically, Timbuktu was -thus raised to a position of undue importance, though -commercially, as the merchant capital, it could not be -overrated.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> - -<p>With the rise of the Songhay power Timbuktu became -subject to that kingdom. With the fall of the former it -assumed a measure of political importance as the centre -of Moorish power, till on the division from Morocco it -resumed its old status as nothing more nor less than a -trading centre, a position it has retained to this day.</p> - -<p>Among a people of such commercial activity and -enterprise as the Arabs of Morocco, Tripoli, and Egypt, -naturally there were not awanting numbers of students -eager to collect and collate information regarding the -inland countries to which their merchants travelled. -Among the host of historians and geographers who -supply us with interesting facts, we may mention El -Bekri, El Edrisi (1153), Ebn Said (1282), Ebn Khaldun -(1382), and Makrizi (1400).</p> - -<p>But the Arabs had their explorers as well as their -writers. Among these two stand out with marked prominence, -viz., Ebn Batuta (1353), and Leo Africanus -(1528). Ebn Batuta, who seems to have been devoured -with a thirst for travel, and had visited almost all the -countries of the then known world, commenced his Central -African explorations from Morocco, and crossed the desert -to Walata, the frontier province of Melli, situated not far -from the Niger. From Walata he crossed the Niger to -the capital of the kingdom, and thence by land proceeded -to Timbuktu. From Kabara, the “port” of Timbuktu, -he sailed down the Niger to Gogo, the capital of Songhay, -and thence turned northward again across the desert by -way of the oasis of Tawat to Morocco.</p> - -<p>The travels of Leo Africanus were even more extensive, -for he travelled over the whole of the Central and -Western Sudan. Considering that he wrote an account -of his travels from memory many years after, the events<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> -recorded, and the accuracy and amount of varied information -he gives regarding the countries he visited, are -astonishing. He describes not only the kingdoms of -Melli, Songhay, and Bornu, but also the countries that -lie between, Gober, Katsena, Kano, and Agades, of all of -which he has something important to say. Even when -he seems to draw most upon our credulity he is generally -quite correct, as for instance when he describes the -people of one district kindling fires at night under their -bedsteads to keep themselves warm. To the truth of -this statement the writer of these lines can testify from -personal observation, the precaution being adopted, however, -not to ward off external cold, but that of ague, a -disease to which many places on the Niger are subject -at certain times of the year.</p> - -<p>It is not our intention to enter into the vexed question -of what the Arab writers and travellers knew regarding -the course and final destination of the Niger. -Those of them who travelled did not do so as geographers, -and though they noted accurately enough what they did -see, they troubled themselves very little with what they -did not see, and held aloof from inquiries of a purely -speculative character. M‘Queen<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> has made it clear, -however, that many of them were aware that the Nile -and the Niger were distinct, and that the general tendency -of Arab opinion was to make the latter river fall -into the Atlantic.</p> - -<p>Much of the confusion as to what the Arabs did know -or believe arose largely from the ignorance of European -geographers in confounding the western kingdom of -Ghana with the central one of Kano, and of the town<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> -of Kugha, near the Upper Niger, with that of Kuka in -Bornu. With the new light thrown upon the history -and geography of the Niger basin, we can now see that -the Arab writers had a wonderfully accurate conception -of the political and physical characteristics of the region -in question. To them is due not only the honour of -having raised the veil which shrouded the Sudan, and -spread the seeds of civilisation, which have flourished -so remarkably, but also of disseminating a knowledge of -that region among western nations—a knowledge destined, -as we shall see, to be caught up and carried to great -ends with European vigour and scientific accuracy.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>OPENING UP THE WAY TO THE NIGER.</i></span></h2> - -<p>With Leo Africanus the Arab period in the history of -African exploration practically closed. Even in that -traveller’s day the incurable diseases so characteristic -of the Mohammedan states of our time were rapidly -developing. Learning and the arts were no longer -encouraged. Liberality of thought and missionary -enterprise were replaced by Fanaticism, hatred of the -stranger, and isolation from all outside genial influences. -A blight was falling over everything that had made the -Arab name great and glorious in the world’s history.</p> - -<p>Happily for the cause of progress, while the Crescent -thus waned and lost its lustre in the rising mephitic -fogs, the Cross was ever gathering to itself new glories, -and proving the herald and morning-star of a brighter -and greater era. Under its inspiring influences the -western nations were emerging from the gloom and -ignorance in which they had been enshrouded, and were -feeling the throbs of new heroic impulses.</p> - -<p>Among the Christian nations thus awakening Portugal -was taking the lead. Facing the Atlantic, it was ever -looking over the wild waste of waters, picturing the possible -beyond on the blank expanse, and rearing a hardy -race of navigators all unconscious of the great mission -that was yet to be theirs. Southward, too, their thoughts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> -were ever turning, following their soldiers as they fought -against the Moors and planted their most Christian flag -along the entire coast-line of Morocco. Echoes there -were which came to them of the vast wealth of Inner -Africa, of the power of Prester John and the riches of -far Cathay, till the imaginations of kings, soldiers, merchants, -and priests were alike inflamed with a desire to -share them. With it all the vaguest ideas were current -as to the extent of the African continent. The northern -coast-line was well enough known, but at the beginning -of the fifteenth century no one had ventured southward -beyond the western termination of the Atlas Mountains, -and how much further south the land extended no one -pretended to know. This ignorance, however, did not -last through the century.</p> - -<p>Under its energetic and far-seeing kings, John and -Immanuel, Portugal set itself to penetrate behind the -veil and attain the honour and the more substantial -rewards secured, as was believed, to those who should -first reach the sources of the gold supply of Inner Africa, -the capital of Prester John, or the countries of the Far -East.</p> - -<p>Extensive voyages were then unthought of. Sailing -was very much a matter of feeling one’s way along the -shore. Hence it was not by any one extensive voyage, -but by many successive expeditions, that the shore-line -of Africa was gradually mapped out. In this way greater -courage, confidence, experience, and skill were gained with -each successful addition to the limits of the known, and -a spirit of emulation was aroused which irresistibly carried -the new knight errants of commerce and science -further and further south in search of the promised -land.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1433 Cape Bojador was reached by Gilianez, and -the Island of Arguin by Nuno Tristan ten years later. -So far deserts and burning suns, a repellent coast-line -and a meagre population of wild nomads, were what -they found—no news of Prester John, no evidence of -the vast riches they had taught themselves to expect. -But nothing was allowed to damp their eager spirit or -quash their sanguine expectations.</p> - -<p>In 1446 Fernandez passed Cape Verd, and in the -following year the fertile region of Senegambia was -reached by Lancelot.</p> - -<p>It now seemed as if the bold adventurers were to -have their reward. They had at last arrived at a fertile -region abounding in gold and ivory, and, better still, -they began to hear of a great kingdom named Melli, -not then absorbed in the rapidly rising empire of -Songhay. This, they thought, must be the country -of Prester John.</p> - -<p>These important discoveries, and all the glowing hopes -they developed, gave a new impetus to the course of -Portuguese discovery. With renewed enterprise and -persistence adventurous navigators pursued the path of -exploration. By 1471 they had reached the Gold Coast, -and before the close of the century the Cape had been -rounded, and, under the leadership of Almeida and -Albuquerque, some of their magnificent dreams of -wealth and power realised in the foundation of their -Indian Empire.</p> - -<p>But though the Portuguese had thus revealed to the -world the Senegal and the Gambia, and apparently -thrown open a door to the kingdom of the Niger basin, -nothing came of it. From the writings of De Barros we -gather that embassies from the King of Portugal were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> -despatched to the rulers of Melli and Mosi, and even, -it is said, to that of Songhay. Of these missions, however, -nothing more has come down to us. They added -seemingly nothing to our knowledge of the interior. -Factories were established along the coast, and even -some distance up the rivers Senegal and Gambia, but -the thirst for gold and slaves evidently swamped all -other considerations with the agents in charge, for not -an iota of information do we gather from them—or at -least none is now on record—of the geography of the -far interior.</p> - -<p>The magnificent enterprise of Portugal in the fields -of maritime discovery was destined to be of the most -transient character. Evil days speedily came upon it, -and between Philip II. of Spain on land and the Dutch -at sea, it seemed for a time as if it would lose its place -among the independent nations of Europe.</p> - -<p>From the time of its conquest by Spain its course was -backward, and its history became a record of shrinking -empire and gradual loss of all spirit that tends to national -greatness and progress. As far as we are concerned the -work of the Portuguese ended with the exploration of -the Senegambian Coast, the discovery of the rivers Senegal -and Gambia—then thought to be branches of the Niger—and -the revelation to Europe of the future route to -the Niger and Timbuktu.</p> - -<p>The work of exploration so well begun, so magnificently -carried on, though so disastrously closed, began -now to fall into other hands. Contemporaneously -with the dwindling of the Portuguese into the background -the English came to the front. It was then the -Elizabethan period, that era of glorious memory, the -dawn of Greater Britain. Bold mariners, like the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> -world has never seen, sprang up on all sides, and made -England the mistress of the seas. A spirit of commercial -enterprise and adventurous daring was developed -which nothing could dismay, nothing withstand. -Before the close of that eventful period Drake had led -his countrymen to the rich spoil of the Spanish Main, -Raleigh had laid the foundation of English rule in North -America, Baffin and Hudson had cleared the way for -Arctic exploration, and Davis had not only started the -series of heroic expeditions connected with the North-west -Passage, but had led English ships to the Indian -Seas.</p> - -<p>With these, however, we have nothing to do. Of -more importance is it to us to note that Hawkins had -made his first voyage to the West African Coast, and -inaugurated that horrid traffic in human flesh and blood -which has left such an indelible stain on British -commerce.</p> - -<p>But it was not only the slave trade which drew the -attention of English merchants to Africa. To them as -to the Portuguese the Niger and Timbuktu were words -to conjure with. Both were believed to be veritable -mines of wealth. To the imagination of the time the -one was pictured as flowing over golden sands, the other -as almost paved with the precious metal. It was believed -that the Senegal and the Gambia constituted the Niger -mouths, and accordingly that to ascend either river -would bring the traveller direct to the source of so much -wealth. To accomplish this now became the dream of -nations, so that it may well be said that the Niger -and its fancied treasures were the magnet which drew -men on to the exploration of the interior of the Dark -Continent.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> - -<p>It had been the mission of Portugal to draw a girdle -round Africa; it was now to be the <i>rôle</i> of Britain to -take up the work and penetrate inland with more lasting -results than had followed Portuguese embassies and -missionary and commercial enterprises.</p> - -<p>The year 1618 saw the commencement of this noble -work. A company was formed to explore the Gambia, -with the object of reaching the rich region of the -Niger.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_034" src="images/i_034.png" width="600" height="431" alt="Map: O. DAPPER. NIGRITARUM REGIO. 1671." /> -</div> - -<p>The honour of being Britain’s pioneer in African -exploration fell to the lot of one Richard Thompson, -described as being a man of spirit and enterprise. He -left England in the <i>Catherine</i>, of 120 tons, with a cargo -worth nearly £2000, and reached the Gambia towards -the end of the year. Here he found the Portuguese -still in power, ruling the nations with grinding tyranny, -though rapidly sinking into the commercial and national<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> -apathy which has made them a byword in the nineteenth -century.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_035" src="images/i_035.png" width="471" height="600" alt="Map: O. DAPPER, 1671." /> -</div> - -<p>Thompson’s enterprise, like so many which succeeded -it, was doomed to suffer sad disaster. First the Portuguese -fell upon and massacred a large part of the crew -while its captain was exploring up the river. Undismayed -he stuck to his post, and demanded reinforcements -and supplies. His employers were of like metal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> -to himself, and promptly sent another vessel to his -assistance. The climate proved as formidable an enemy -as the Portuguese, and most of the crew of the new ship -succumbed to the deadly miasma.</p> - -<p>Still another vessel was fitted out, its owners undaunted -by loss of men and goods, and sanguine as -ever of the glorious prize to be achieved.</p> - -<p>This time one Richard Jobson took command. He -arrived in the Gambia in 1620, only to hear of a new -calamity and a new and even more paralysing source of -danger—Thompson’s men had mutinied and murdered -him. Portuguese hostility, a deadly climate, and mutiny -in the camp were all arrayed against the hoped for advance -into the country. But those old mariners were -made of stern unyielding stuff, which only death itself -could break, and undismayed Jobson defied all dangers -and started on his quest. With each succeeding mile -new difficulties beset the gallant band. No pilots could -be got to show the way. For a time this proved no -serious obstacle. Soon, however, the current grew -stronger, and threatened to drive them back. They were -in hourly peril from hidden rocks, and falls and rapids -raised a foaming barrier to further progress. Sand-banks -there were, too, on which they grounded, and -crocodiles had to be braved in getting clear of them, -while sea-horses snorted angrily and threatened to -swamp the boats. Unprovided with the mosquito-nets -of modern times, their days of overpowering fatigue -under a melting sun were followed by nights of maddening -torture under the stings of myriad mosquitoes -and sandflies. But everything was new and wonderful -to them. They were like children bursting into a new -world full of undreamed of marvels, a veritable land<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> -of enchantment. The voracious crocodiles and the -monstrous hippos in the river, elephants in troops -crashing irresistibly through the dense forest, leopards -watching cat-like for their prey, and lions disturbing -the silence of night with their awe-inspiring roars, -were some of the elements of this new wonderland. -There, too, were monkeys among the trees—their -gambols a never failing source of delight; and baboons -trooping through the underbush in enormous -herds, filling the air with strange outcries, except when -“one great voice would exalt itself, and the rest were -hushed.”</p> - -<p>Not less astonishing was the insect life of the tropic -forest—the fireflies in myriad numbers flashing with -iridescent colours in the gloom of night, the crickets -raising their deafening chorus, the strange beetles, and -the many-coloured butterflies.</p> - -<p>How marvellous, too, must the tropic foliage have appeared -to the explorers, fresh as they were from England. -The immense grasses, the almost impenetrable undergrowth, -the beauties of the palm tribe, the majesty of -the silk-cotton tree. Last, not least, how passing strange -the appearance of the natives, their comparative absence -of dress, their simple habits and rudimentary ideas about -all things under heaven. The modern traveller, <i>blasé</i> with -the rich heritage of a hundred predecessors, cannot but -envy the sensations of such an one as Jobson on seeing -for the first time all the marvels, beauties, and novelties -of Africa.</p> - -<p>But while we vainly try to realise the feelings inspired -in the mind of this pioneer, we are not oblivious -of the terrible earnestness and determination, the indomitable -courage and dogged perseverance of the man.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> -The very devil himself has no terrors for Jobson. -Hearing certain remarkable sounds, and being told -by the natives that it is the voice of the devil, the -intrepid sailor seizes his gun and rushes forth to do -battle with his Satanic Majesty, who, on our hero’s -appearance, changes his terrible roars into notes of -terror, and shows himself as a huge negro grovelling in -the dust in an agony of fear.</p> - -<p>On the 26th January 1621, Jobson had reached a -place called Tenda, where he heard of a city four months’ -journey into the interior, the roofs of which were covered -with gold. Unhappily, however much his appetite -might be whetted by such wonderful stories, it had to -remain unsatisfied. The dry season soon began to -tell upon the volume of water in the river, making -advance daily more difficult, till within a few days of -a town called Tombaconda, some 300 miles from the -sea, he was compelled to desist from further attempts, -although he believed that Tombaconda was Timbuktu -itself, in reality distant about 1000 miles. On the 10th -February he commenced his return, hoping to go back -and complete his work with the rising of the waters, a -project he however never executed.</p> - -<p>Quarrels broke out between the merchants on the -river and the Company, and the enterprise for the time -being collapsed.</p> - -<p>It was not till nearly a century later that a new attempt -was made to prosecute the task of reaching the Niger -and the wealth of Inner Africa. In 1720, the Duke of -Chandos, acting as chairman of the African Company, -instigated a new expedition by way of the Gambia to -the land of promise.</p> - -<p>This time the enterprise was placed under the leader<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>ship -of one Captain Bartholomew Stibbs, who left England -in 1723, and arrived in the Gambia in October of -that year. His experiences were identical with those -of Jobson, though he did not reach the latter’s highest -point. Between them, however, it was made quite clear -that the Gambia had no connection with the Niger, and -as little with the Senegal.</p> - -<p>With Stibbs ended the English commercial attempts -to open up the way to the interior of Africa.</p> - -<p>The addition to our knowledge of its geography -amounted to the exploration of the navigable part of the -Gambia, and the determination of the fact that it had no -connection with the Niger.</p> - -<p>The French meanwhile were doing for the Senegal -what the British were accomplishing in the sister river. -Six years after Thompson had entered the latter, the -French had established themselves at the mouth of the -Senegal and founded the town of St. Louis. Their first -exploring trip was made in 1637, when they penetrated -some distance along the navigable part of the river.</p> - -<p>More important, however, was the expedition in 1697 -of one Sieur Brue, director-general of the French African -Company, which achieved considerable success. This -expedition was backed up by a second voyage up the river -two years later, when the fort of St. Joseph was founded, -and trade opened with merchants from Timbuktu.</p> - -<p>Sieur Brue’s experiences were in every respect similar -to those of Jobson and Stibbs on the Gambia, though -commercially more fortunate, inasmuch as he had to do -with more advanced races, and contrived to reach the -frontiers of a rich gold-bearing district (Bambuk) on the -one hand, and of an equally profitable gum region on -the other.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> - -<p>He also heard much of the Niger and Timbuktu, and -seemingly satisfied himself that the Senegal had no connection -with the famous river of the interior, and that -the latter flowed east, not west, as it was the tendency -of his day to believe, since we find the French maps of -the eighteenth century showing the Niger flowing towards -the interior and an uncertain bourne.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>PREPARING FOR PARK: THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION.</i></span></h2> - -<p>The latter part of the eighteenth century marks the -commencement of the modern period of African exploration. -So far all African enterprises had been instigated -by governments for national aggrandisement, or -by merchants with commercial objects in view. Early -Portuguese discovery was a type of the one; the British -expedition to the Gambia an example of the other. But -now the time had come when, dissociated from both, -African exploration was to start forth on a new line of -unselfish research, and accomplish what governments and -commercial communities had failed in doing.</p> - -<p>To the African Association belongs the honour of -inaugurating this new and more glorious era. Lord -Rawdon, afterwards Marquis of Hastings, Sir Joseph -Banks, the Bishop of Landaff, Mr. Beaufoy, and Mr. -Stuart, were the first managers of this Association, -whose objects were the promotion of discovery in Africa, -and the spread of information, commercial, political, and -scientific, regarding the still sadly unknown continent.</p> - -<p>At first the Association devoted their attention to -Northern Africa, and in a short time were instrumental -in gathering together much reliable and valuable information -as to the Mohammedan states of that region.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> - -<p>Their inquiries, however, were not to be bounded by -the Sahara any more than the first onrush of the -Mohammedan torrent.</p> - -<p>The routes of the large caravans to the Sudan were -made a subject of investigation, and the Arab writers -laid under contribution to satisfy the demand for more -light.</p> - -<p>To the Niger especially their inquiries were turned, -in the hope of solving the mystery of its true position -and its course. Where did it commence and where -did it end? was the double problem which puzzled the -eighteenth century geographers more even than the -question of the source of the Nile.</p> - -<p>Not content with inquiries which only landed them in -perplexities and endless discussion, they resolved to send -out explorers. To such they offered no monetary inducements, -no hope of tangible reward. The honour -and glory of discovery were to be their prize: the -Association at the same time undertaking, for their -part, to defray the traveller’s expenses.</p> - -<p>The inducements offered were quite sufficient. Admirably -qualified men presented themselves in greater -numbers than were needed, so that the chief difficulty -of the Association was to choose rather than to seek.</p> - -<p>The first of the heroic band of African pioneers was -Ledyard, already a traveller of the most varied experience. -His mission was to cross the African Continent -from the Nile to the Atlantic. At the threshold -of his enterprise he perished of fever in 1788.</p> - -<p>Mr. Lucas was the next to take up the work. His -qualifications were an intimate knowledge of Moorish -life and language, gathered first as a slave in Morocco, -then as British Vice-Consul to that empire. The work<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> -marked out for him was to start from Tripoli and cross -the Sahara to the Sudan. In this he failed. A revolt -of Arab tribes barred the way, and Mr. Lucas abandoned -the enterprise, bringing back with him only additional -particulars regarding the interior, which he had gathered -from native merchants.</p> - -<p>More successful in the earlier part of a succeeding -expedition was Horneman (1789), who undoubtedly -crossed the desert, but crossed it only to disappear for -ever.</p> - -<p>Clearly Africa was a hard nut to crack, and dangerous -to whomsoever should essay it.</p> - -<p>Foiled in their attempts to reach the goal of their -desires from the north, the African Association next -turned to West Africa for a possible opening to the -interior. Once more the Gambia was chosen as the -most direct and feasible route.</p> - -<p>In Major Houghton they seemed to have got the -right man for the work. As Consul at Morocco he -had gained an acquaintance with the Moors and their -language, and at Goree, then in British hands, he had -come in contact with the West African negro, and -learned the conditions of life and travel obtaining in -the Gambia region.</p> - -<p>The new attempt was made in 1791. Unlike Jobson -and Stibbs, the adventurous explorer did not proceed -by boat and with a large European party, but by land, -single-handed, and attended by the most modest of retinues. -At first all went well; no difficulties or troubles -retarded his progress. Generally following the course -of the river he safely reached Medina, the capital of -Wuli, and was hospitably received by the king of the -place. Less kind were the elements. A fire which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> -reduced the town to ashes deprived him of much of -his goods. From Medina Houghton’s route diverged -from the Gambia, passing west to the Falemé, a -southern tributary of the Senegal, and frontier line of -the gold-bearing region of Bambuk. Here also he was -received with hospitality, and was sent on his way -through Bambuk rejoicing. Not to rejoice long, however. -The last communication received from him contained -these graphic lines: “Major Houghton’s compliments -to Dr. Laidley; is in good health, on his way -to Timbuktu; robbed of all his goods by Fenda Bukar’s -son.” No despair in these words, whatever calamities -might have befallen the writer; no halting in the resolution -to achieve his object—only the one unhesitating -determination to go forward. But it was to go forward -to die. In spite of Fenda Bukar’s son he seems still to -have possessed sufficient means to rouse the unscrupulous -cupidity of some Moors. Lured on by these wretches he -was led into the desert, where he was stripped of everything -and left to a horrible death.</p> - -<p>It would seem that the disastrous ending of these -various expeditions had thrown a damper upon the -eagerness of volunteers to continue the work, for we -now find the African Association offering the inducement -of a liberal recompense to whomsoever would take -up the task broken off by Houghton’s death.</p> - -<p>Little wonder if qualified men hesitated to offer themselves. -African fevers had a terror then which they no -longer possess. The continent was practically unknown, -and to the imagination, with no facts to act as correctives, -everything wore a terrible aspect. Cannibalism, general -bloodthirstiness and ferocity, a love of plunder, and all -manner of horrible practices, were associated with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> -name of negro. Death by thirst or starvation was -thought likely to be the lot of those who escaped the -miasma of the land or the murderous spear of the -native. Brave indeed would be the man who should -face such an accumulation of vaguely discerned and -mightily exaggerated horrors.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless the African Association had not long -to wait. At this crisis in their affairs the man for -the work was forthcoming, one destined to crown their -hopes with a triumphant success, to inaugurate a more -brilliant future for African travel, and give it such an -impetus as would carry it on to a glorious issue. This -was Mungo Park.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>MUNGO PARK.</i></span></h2> - -<p>To continue our narrative of exploration we must now -leave the sweltering suns and miasmatic atmosphere of -Western Africa for the temperate climate and bracing -breezy hillsides of southern Scotland—turning from the -river dear to the geographer to the stream loved of the -poet—from the Niger to the Yarrow.</p> - -<p>The man whose mission it was to break through -the isolating barriers reared by savagery and a deadly -climate between the land of the negro and all outside -humanising influences, must needs have an heroic -cradle, and come of an heroic race. His must be the -nurture of the Spartan, physically equipping him to -battle with hardship and privation—his the education -and upbringing which tend to all forms of noble discontent -and deeds of high emprise.</p> - -<p>Such a cradle and such a race were Ettrickdale and -its peasantry. Theirs was the life of honest toil and -constant self-restraint, and theirs the direct and indirect -education which in the right man develops romantic -instincts, and weds to a perfervid imagination stern -religious convictions, intense practicality, and prosaic -tenacity of purpose. Theirs were the surroundings -fitted alike to mould the poet or the hero—him who -should sing of the chivalry of the past, or him who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> -should be of the chivalry of the present, in whatever -field is scope for praiseworthy ambition and highest -aspiration—clear-sighted vision and undaunted courage, -dogged persistence and untiring perseverance, fortitude -under reverses, and physical powers to endure privation.</p> - -<p>This, then, was the heritage which Ettrickdale had -to offer to her sons; and this, as one of them, the heritage -of Mungo Park, the first of the knight errantry -of Africa.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_047" src="images/i_047.jpg" width="600" height="419" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BIRTHPLACE OF MUNGO PARK.</p></div> - -<p>Of the early life of him who was destined to partially -unveil the face of Africa we know but little, though -that little is sufficiently significant and satisfactory.</p> - -<p>Mungo Park was born on the 10th September 1771 in -the cottage of Foulshiels, some four and a half miles from -Selkirk. Foulshiels stands in the very centre of the love<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>liest -scenery of the glen of Yarrow, facing on the opposite -side of the valley the stately tower of Newark. Eastward -it commands a view over the woods and groves -and “birchen bowers” of the widening dale to where -it merges in the valley of the Ettrick near Selkirk. -Westward it fronts a magnificent panorama of hill and -dale, through which curves the Yarrow in broken gleaming -reaches, from the wild romantic scenery of its loch -and mountain sources. To front and rear rise stately -hills, their bases separated and washed by the rushing -streams, their lower slopes clad with oak and fir, their -upper with grass and heather, over which the winds -sweep unopposed.</p> - -<p>But if the surroundings of Park’s birthplace were -grand, the cottage, of which the ruins still exist, was -humble in the extreme. It was neither better nor -worse than might be tenanted by shepherds of the present -day in out-of-the-way places, being built substantially -of whinstone and lime, and containing at the most -three apartments. The building presents not a trace of -ornament, not a relieving cornice, thus fitly expressing -the character of its occupants, their extreme practicality, -their plain honest soundness and indifference to all -external graces. From such a cottage sprang a Burns, -and later on a Carlyle.</p> - -<p>Mungo was the seventh child of a family of thirteen, -of whom, however, only eight reached the age of maturity. -By unremitting care and hard work his father had raised -himself to the position of a small farmer—how small his -cottage sufficiently shows. In him, however, we have -undoubtedly one of that type of Scottish fathers who -will pinch his own body and double the slavery of his -life in order that his children may receive a better<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> -education than he himself had, and that their minds at -least may not be starved and stunted. As Park’s first -biographer puts it, writing in 1816, “The attention -of the Scottish farmers and peasantry to the early instruction -of their children is strongly exemplified in the -history of Park’s family. The diffusion of knowledge -among the natives of that part of the kingdom and their -general intelligence must be admitted by every unprejudiced -observer; nor is there any country in which -the effects of education are so conspicuous in promoting -industry and good conduct, and in producing useful -and respectable men of the inferior and middle classes -admirably fitted for all the important offices of common -life.”</p> - -<p>It would seem that there was no school near enough -to Foulshiels for the Park children in the earlier years -of their life to be able to attend, since we find a resident -teacher engaged to impart the necessary rudiments of -education.</p> - -<p>With maturer years Mungo was transferred to the -Selkirk Grammar School, to which he probably walked -each morning.</p> - -<p>From this time we begin to get glimpses of his peculiar -personality and character. It does not appear that he -showed any special talent while at school, though constant -in his attendance, and studious in application. -We gather that he was dreamy and reserved, a great -reader, a lover of poetry, and passionately fond of the -quaint lore and simple minstrelsy so markedly associated -with the border counties of Scotland.</p> - -<p>His, clearly, was not the temperament which would -receive its guiding impulses from the routine work of -school or the precepts and instruction of schoolmasters.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> -Such conventional influences would never have led him -to Africa. His inspirations were derived from the ballads -that were sung and the tales that were told by -every country fireside. For him the rushing Yarrow, -Newark’s ruined towers, the spreading field, the swelling -hillside, and the mountain top were teachers, each with -a tale to tell of bold adventure or of deadly strife.</p> - -<p>The whole country was redolent with the romance of -the half-forgotten past, with a hundred memories dear -to a patriotic heart. In all around him there was something -to throw a glamour over his young eager mind, -something to fire his imagination and arouse eager -longings to be up and doing deeds undefined, yet ever -great and noble. From the stately castle, which now -looked down on him in melancholy ruined majesty, -brave knights of bygone days had ridden forth to fight -for king and country or for love. Their day was past, -but might not he in other guise emerge from his lowly -cottage, and with other weapons win his golden spurs.</p> - -<p>In what way all these vague ambitions and this spiritual -fermentation was to end there was but small indication. -It is given only to the few to realise in after -life the romantic dreams of their youth.</p> - -<p>At first it seems Mungo was destined by his father for -the ministry, but he himself preferred medicine, to which -choice no objection appears to have been made.</p> - -<p>To acquire the rudiments of his medical education, -when fifteen years of age he was placed, as was the -custom of the time, as apprentice to Dr. Thomas Anderson, -a surgeon in Selkirk, a gentleman whose descendants -still practise the healing art in the same town. For -three years he remained with the Doctor, not only -acquiring a knowledge of medicine, but still further<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> -grounding himself in the classics and other branches of -education at the Grammar School.</p> - -<p>Further than this we know nothing of his life in the -Anderson family, though that his time was agreeably -spent we may deduce from the fact that, as we shall see -later on, he some years after married Dr. Anderson’s -eldest daughter.</p> - -<p>In the year 1789 Park left Selkirk for the University -of Edinburgh to complete his medical studies. Three -successive sessions seems to have been all that was -necessary to qualify in these days.</p> - -<p>We are told that he was an ardent student, and distinguished -among his fellows. Botany was his favourite -subject, this fact being doubtless largely due to the -inspiring influence of his brother-in-law, Mr. James -Dickson, who from being a gardener had raised himself -by his own exertions to be no common botanist and the -author of some valuable and important works.</p> - -<p>It was while still a medical student that Park came -more directly in contact with Dickson, and with him he -went a botanical tour in the Highlands.</p> - -<p>Dickson did more for his young brother-in-law than -inspire him with a love of botany. He was on a footing -of considerable intimacy with Sir Joseph Banks, one of -the chief managers of the African Association, and when -Park left the University he introduced him to his influential -friend, and so brought him in contact with -the influences which were to make Mungo Park the -first of famous African travellers.</p> - -<p>But the time was not yet. Park had still to prepare -himself practically for his great mission by widening his -experience of life and travel—had still to get further -bitten with the fever of unrest. Hence in 1792 we find<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> -him sailing not to Africa, but to the East, as surgeon in -the East India Company’s service.</p> - -<p>At this point he supplies us with an admirable and -characteristic glimpse of himself in a letter addressed to -his teacher in surgery and future father-in-law, Dr. -Anderson of Selkirk. The letter is dated London, -23rd January 1793, and the following is an interesting -portion:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>“I have now got upon the first step of the stair -of ambition. Here’s a figure of it. (A pen and ink -sketch is here given of a flight of steps with a man -on the lowest.) It very nearly resembles one of -Gordon’s traps which he uses in the library. Now, -if I should run up the stair, you see the consequence. -I must either be mortified by seeing I can get -no further, or, by taking an airy step, knock my brains -out against the large folio of some succeeding author. -May I use my little advantage in height to enable me -to perform the office of a watchman to the rest of mankind, -and call to them, ‘Take care, sirs! Don’t look too -high, or you’ll break your legs on that stool. Open your -eyes; you are going straight for the fire.’</p> - -<p>“Passed at Surgeons’ Hall! Associate of the Linnean -Society! I walked three or four times backwards and -forwards through the hall, and had actually begun to -count the panes of glass in the large window, when -the bell rang, and the beadle roared out, ‘Mr. Park!’ -Macbeth’s start when he beheld the dagger was a mere -jest compared to mine....</p> - -<p>“I have purchased Stewart’s Philosophy to amuse me -at sea. As you are in Edinburgh, you will write to me -what people say of its religious character. You told me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> -in Sandy’s (his brother Alexander presumably, who was -at the time following the medical course he himself had -just completed) letter that you would write me next -week. I have too much to say, and therefore must -speak by halves.</p> - -<p>“The melancholy, who complain of the shortness of -human life, and the voluptuous, who think the present -only their own, strive to fill up every moment with -sensual enjoyment; but the man whose soul has been -enlightened by his Creator, and enabled, though dimly, -to discern the wonders of salvation, will look upon the -joys and afflictions of this life as equally the tokens of -Divine love. He will walk through the world as one -travelling to a better country, looking forward with -wonder to the author and finisher of his faith....</p> - -<p>“<i>P.S.</i>—I sail in about a month.”</p></blockquote> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_053_large.png"><img id="i_053" src="images/i_053.png" width="600" height="330" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">EXTRACT OF LETTER FROM MUNGO PARK TO DR. ANDERSON.</p></div> - -<p>It was in this buoyant mood of the young conqueror-to-be -that Park looked forth upon the field of enterprise -opened up to him, and with Stewart’s Philosophy to -amuse him, and his deeply rooted religious convictions -to sustain him, left England for the Indies.</p> - -<p>As showing the force of these convictions, we may -quote another letter, written to Dr. Anderson when on -the point of departure:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>“I have now reached that height that I can behold -the tumults of nations with indifference, confident that -the reins of events are in our Father’s hands. May you -and I (not like the stubborn mule, but like the weaning -child) obey His hand, that after all the troubles of this -dark world in which we are truly strangers, we may, -through the wonders of atonement, reach a far greater -and exceeding weight of glory. I wish you may be able<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> -to look upon the day of your departure with the same -resignation that I do on mine. My hope is now approaching -to a certainty. If I be deceived, may God -alone put me right, for I would rather die in the delusion -than wake to all the joys of earth. May the Holy -Spirit dwell for ever in your heart, my dear friend, and -if I never see my native land again, may I rather see -the green sod on your grave than see you anything but -a Christian.”</p></blockquote> - -<p>Nothing noteworthy marked this voyage to Sumatra, -but his stay there was by no means wasted time, since -it afforded him an excellent opportunity of indulging -his scientific tastes, not as the collector merely, but also -and chiefly as the accurate observer.</p> - -<p>A paper in the Linnean Transactions on eight new -fishes from Sumatra is sufficient evidence both of his -industry and of his scientific attainments.</p> - -<p>Park returned to England after a year’s absence, and -was now ripe for the work in store for him. It nowhere -appears that so far he had even once thought of Africa -as a possible field for his ambition and energies. His -natural temperament, however, had been a fertile soil -for the romantic ideas which his early environment had -planted. His medical education had further fitted him -for the work of exploration, besides bringing him more -sympathetically in contact with his botanical brother-in-law, -who again was to bring him within the sphere of -influence of Sir Joseph Banks, and through him of the -African Association. Following these various determining -influences came the first taste of travel, the wider -experience, and the knowledge of the good and evil of -the wanderer’s life. All that remained wanting was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> -the golden opportunity to prove in action his potential -capacity for heroic service in the fields of geographical -research.</p> - -<p>The return of Park from his first voyage was the -turning point in his career. At the moment there -was a crisis in the affairs of the African Association. -Everything they had attempted had ended disastrously, -and news had just reached them of the sad death of -Major Houghton. Should the task now be given up, -or was it to be resumed with renewed zeal and ardour? -There could be but one answer. The work begun must -be continued. Surely in the end it must be crowned -with success. Meantime, who was to take it up?</p> - -<p>While the Association was thus inquiring for the man -fitted to entrust with their perilous venture, Park was -still undecided as to what course in life he was to pursue. -With Sir Joseph Banks as a link between, there could -not fail to be a speedy understanding and a mutual -settlement of the questions at issue for both. The -projects of the Association speedily came to Park’s ears. -Here was the very work he wanted, promising opportunities -to indulge in his love of travel and natural -history far transcending his wildest dreams. A splendid -prospect of a great work accomplished and glory won, -of difficulties surmounted and fame achieved, opened up -before him. Before such a chance there could be no -irresolution, no doubting, no fears. His course was -clear, and at once he volunteered his services, which -were, on the part of the Company, as promptly and -eagerly accepted as they had been offered.</p> - -<p>Mungo Park was then twenty-four years of age.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>AT THE THRESHOLD.</i></span></h2> - -<p>On the 22nd of May 1795, Mungo Park left England -on board the <i>Endeavour</i>, an African trader. On the -21st of the following month he landed at the mouth -of the river Gambia.</p> - -<p>Bathurst, the present seat of government for the -Gambia basin, was not then in existence, with its present -busy European community and thriving native -population, its imposing public buildings and well laid -out streets. The native town of Jillifri on the north -bank, and a little way up the river, was the first place of -call in the early trading days of the Gambia merchants.</p> - -<p>From Jillifri the <i>Endeavour</i> ascended the river to -Jonkakonda.</p> - -<p>The view which opened up before Park as he proceeded -was neither attractive nor promising. The river flowed -seaward deep and muddy, its banks covered with impenetrable -forests of mangrove, forming when the tide -was out a horrible expanse of swamp. The air was -thick with a sickening haze, charged with the poisonous -exhalations from the fœtid mud engendered by heat and -moisture. Here and there only, a group of cocoa-nuts, -or an isolated bombyx (silk-cotton tree) relieved the -dreary monotony, and gave a momentary pleasure to -the eye.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p><div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_060_large.jpg"><img id="i_060" src="images/i_060.jpg" width="600" height="349" alt="Map: MUNGO PARK’S TRAVELS. 1794-1805." title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -</div> - -<p>Behind the mangrove swamps the country spread out -in a level plain, “very generally covered with woods, -and presenting a tiresome and gloomy uniformity to the -eye; but although nature has denied to the inhabitants -the beauties of romantic landscapes, she has bestowed on -them with a liberal hand the more important blessings -of fertility and abundance.”</p> - -<p>At Jonkakonda, which seems to have been one of -the chief trading stations on the river, Park left the -<i>Endeavour</i>, and proceeded to the factory of Pisania, a -few miles further on.</p> - -<p>In Dr. Laidley, the agent in charge, for whom he -brought letters, Park found not only a generous host, -but also a thoroughly competent adviser, and for several -succeeding months the merchant’s house and wide experience -were alike at his disposal.</p> - -<p>The objects to be attained by his expedition were—To -reach the river Niger by such route as might be found -most convenient; to ascertain its origin, course, and -if possible its termination; to visit the chief towns in -its neighbourhood, but more particularly Timbuktu and -those of the Haussa country.</p> - -<p>Park’s ardent enthusiasm was ever tempered with -the caution and prudent practical character of his -race. Like an old campaigner he set about learning -what was ahead of him, and otherwise preparing -for his difficult and dangerous task. The Mandingo -language had to be acquired, that he might come -into more sympathetic touch with the natives, and -be more independent of interpreters, ever a source of -profound danger, and often the greatest obstacle to -the advance of the explorer into unknown countries. -In addition inquiries had to be made regarding routes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> -the dangers to be avoided, and the general condition of -travel in these parts. Without such information it was -clear to him that he would be as a blind man walking in -a country beset with a thousand pitfalls.</p> - -<p>But while thus preparing for his task, Park was -not oblivious to what was more immediately around. -We get glimpses of him making natural history collections -by day, and taking astronomical observations -by night. In particular he occupied himself in getting -up the details of the trade of the Gambia. Since the -time when Stibbs had ascended the river in the vain -hope of reaching the Niger, a considerable change had -come over the commerce of the region. The fancied -wealth of Timbuktu had not been tapped, but the commodities -of the countries within reach of the river had -proved no inconsiderable source of profit. In the year -1730 we find one factory alone consisting of a governor, -deputy-governor, and two other principal officers; eight -factors (hence the word factory) or trading agents, thirteen -writers, twenty inferior attendants and tradesmen, -a company of soldiers, and thirty-two negro servants, not -to speak of the crews of various sloops, shallops, and -boats. From that date, however, competition set in, -till at the end of the century the gross value of -British exports had fallen to £20,000.</p> - -<p>It is worthy of note that even in Park’s time the chief -article of export is slaves. Accustomed as we are in these -days to denounce in the strongest terms this vile traffic, -and to brand as the most degraded and brutal of their -race those who engage in it, it is difficult to realise that -less than a century ago we ourselves were the chief traffickers -in human flesh and blood. How little this horrible -trade touched the conscience of the individual or of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> -country at large is sufficiently shown by Park’s own -narrative. We seek there in vain for a word of condemnation, -or the indication of a consciousness that -there was any iniquity in it. Not, be it noted, for -lack of knowledge of the attendant cruelties or even -through lack of pity for the victims. On the contrary, -he describes “the poor wretches while waiting shipment -kept constantly fettered two and two together, and employed -in the labours of the field; and, I am sorry to -add, very scantily fed, as well as harshly treated.”</p> - -<p>Later on he accompanied a slave caravan on its way -to the coast. With simple naturalness he tells the whole -story of the horrors of the route, describing the fetters -and chains, the frightful marches, with heavy loads, -under a sweltering sun, and with starvation rations; -the whip mercilessly applied to the weary to stimulate -them to further exertions, and the knife placed to the -throat of the hopelessly exhausted, at once to rid them -of pain and their drivers of a burden—“an operation I -did not wish to see, and therefore marched on.”</p> - -<p>He is quite aware that all these horrors are perpetrated -that a European market may be supplied. He -knows also what has preceded the slave path, and yet, -incredible as it may seem, not one indignant protest is -drawn from him, not one appeal to Christian Europe, -not even a word of commendation of the work already -inaugurated for its suppression. Quite the opposite, in -fact, on which point let Park speak for himself. “How -far it (slavery) is maintained and supported by the slave -traffic, which for two hundred years the nations of -Europe have carried on with the natives of the coast, -it is neither within my province nor in my power to -explain. If my sentiments should be required con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>cerning -the effect which a discontinuance of that commerce -would produce on the manners of the natives, I -should have no hesitation in observing that in the present -unenlightened state of their minds my opinion is, -the effect would neither be so extensive or beneficial as -many wise and worthy persons fondly expect.”</p> - -<p>The wonder of the thing is intensified, to our mind, -when we reflect on the deep religious nature of Park, -his genuine kind-heartedness, his noble ambitions, and -his appreciation of all that is sweet in human nature. -The story is pregnant with meaning as to the influence -of our environment in opening or shutting our eyes to -what is going on around us.</p> - -<p>But while Britain was then awakening to a sense of -its guilt, and preparing to purge itself of the unholy -traffic, we find from Park’s notes that a new trade, -destined to have almost as terrible consequences, was -already established. Europe, he tells us, took from the -Gambia chiefly slaves, and gave in return spirits and -ammunition. For over two hundred years the unfortunate -natives of Africa had been treated as wild creatures, -the lawful prey and spoil of the higher races. The -mother was tempted to sell her child, and the chief his -subjects. Village fought against village, and tribe against -tribe, that American plantations might be tilled. As -wild beasts and things accursed the negroes were shot -down in myriads, in myriads they perished on the road, -in myriads were transported to a life of shame and -misery. And now, when a new order of things was -about to be instituted, there had commenced another -hundred years of disgraceful commerce to complete the -work of brutalising the West Coast negro, of blighting -all elevating impulses, and suppressing all habits of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> -industry, transforming him into what he is to-day—the -most villainous, treacherous, and vicious being to -be found in all Africa.</p> - -<p>Thanks to the slave trade in past centuries, and the -gin traffic in the present, our West Coast Settlements, -instead of being bright jewels in the imperial crown of -Britain, are at this day little better than standing monuments -to her disgrace. Happily the closing years of -this century are showing signs of an awakened public -conscience. Governments, companies, and private merchants -alike are taking a higher view of their responsibilities -to barbarous races, and before another half -century has come and gone we may hope to see the -vile monster badly scotched if not killed.</p> - -<p>But while we gather from Park that in his day the -slave trade was carried on by British merchants without -a qualm of conscience, and that already gunpowder and -gin formed the staple articles of barter for human flesh -and blood, it is hardly less noteworthy that Islam was -steadily making its beneficent influence felt throughout -the whole land. He tells us that the inhabitants -were divided into two great classes—the <i>Sonakies</i> or -spirit drinkers, and the <i>Bushreens</i> or Mohammedans: -the former, pagans sinking deeper and deeper in the scale -of humanity under the degrading influence of European -intercourse and commerce; the latter ever rising upward, -adopting decent dress and decent behaviour, building -mosques and establishing schools, and specially attempting -to stem the flood of vile spirits poured into the -country by Christian merchants.</p> - -<p>We have in a previous chapter alluded to the mighty -revolution produced by Islam in the Central Sudan. -Here we are only at the missionary outposts. Further<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> -inland, as we follow the footsteps of Park, we shall see -more and more of the good work Mohammedanism had -accomplished in Central Africa.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile it was not all study and observation with -the young explorer. He had to go through a seasoning -process of an unpleasant nature. Having on one occasion -imprudently exposed himself to the night dew, he caught -a fever, and while recovering had a second attack, which -kept him a prisoner for some additional weeks.</p> - -<p>Thanks to the care of Dr. Laidley no evil consequences -followed, while “his company and conversation beguiled -the tedious hours during that gloomy season (the rains): -when suffocating heats oppress by day, and when the -night is spent by the terrified traveller in listening to -the croaking of frogs, of which the numbers are beyond -imagination, the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep -howling of the hyena—a dismal concert interrupted -only by the roar of such tremendous thunder as no -person can form a conception of but those who have -heard it.”</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>FROM THE GAMBIA TO THE SENEGAL.</i></span></h2> - -<p>The time had at last arrived for Park to start on his -great undertaking.</p> - -<p>In the beginning of October the Gambia had attained -its greatest height, or fifteen feet above the high-water -mark of the tide, and then had begun to subside rapidly, -so that by the beginning of November the river had sunk -to its normal level. This was the time to travel. The -natives had reaped their crops, and food was cheap and -plentiful. The rains were over, the land well drained -and dried, the atmosphere less moist and oppressive—all -of which circumstances combined to make travelling -more agreeable and infinitely more healthy.</p> - -<p>At first Park had hoped to accompany a native -caravan going into the interior, but abandoned the idea -on finding that he would have to wait an indefinite -period for such an escort. He therefore determined to -depend on his own resources rather than lose another -good travelling season.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd December 1795 he was ready for the -road. Accustomed as we are to read of the huge caravans, -the quantities of goods, stores, ammunition, and -instruments required by exploring expeditions to the -heart of Africa in these degenerate days, we cannot but -be surprised at the modest retinue and scanty <i>impedi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>menta</i> -which Park thought necessary for his great task. -His sole attendants were a negro servant named Johnson, -who had been to Jamaica as a slave, but being -freed had returned to his native country; and Demba, -a slave boy belonging to Dr. Laidley, who, besides Mandingo, -spoke the language of one of the inland tribes.</p> - -<p>As beasts of burden Park had a small but hardy and -spirited horse for himself, and two donkeys for his -servants. As baggage he had provisions for two days; -a small assortment of beads, amber, and tobacco for the -purchase of fresh supplies as needed; a few changes of -linen and other necessary articles of dress; an umbrella, -a pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, and a thermometer. -For defensive purposes he was provided with -two fowling-pieces, two pairs of pistols, and some other -small weapons. Thus attended, thus provided, and thus -armed, Mungo Park started for the Heart of Africa—an -uncertain bourne only to be reached through deadly -perils and frightful miseries and hardships. How splendidly -equipped he must have been with the real necessaries -of the hero—unflinching determination, ardent -enthusiasm, Homeric resolve, and absolute self-reliance. -Thus provided with moral weapons and stimulants he -could rise superior to every difficulty and danger, and -emerge from the unequal struggle uncrushed, undefeated, -bearing with him not all, but much of the prize for which -he had staked life itself.</p> - -<p>Besides Johnson and Demba, Park had the advantage -of the company of a Mohammedan on his way to Bambarra, -two slatees or slave-merchants going to Bondou, -and a blacksmith returning home to Kasson.</p> - -<p>For the first two marches Dr. Laidley and two other -Europeans accompanied him on his way, feeling as if<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> -they were performing the last offices for the dead, for -they never expected to see him again.</p> - -<p>On the 3rd of December he took leave of these kind -friends, and turned his face inland towards the east and -the Unknown. As he rode slowly into the woods, after -breaking the last link which connected him with Europe -and civilisation, and took the road so lately traversed by -Major Houghton, he could not but recall that to the -latter it had been a road to death. Before him rose -up pictures of repellent waterless deserts, of trackless -jungles, gloomy primeval forests, and miasmatic marshes -which had to be penetrated before his eyes would rest -upon the river Niger. Only too clearly he saw the -dangers from man and beast which had to be faced -before he could ever hope to get once more in touch -with European civilisation. “Thoughts like these necessarily -cast a gloom over the mind, and I rode musingly -along for about three miles, when I was awakened from -my reverie by a body of people who came running up -and stopped my asses.” And with his reflections thus -broken by one of the innumerable annoyances of African -travel, they were not again resumed.</p> - -<p>For the first few marches there was little to note -either in incidents of travel or in aspects of man and -nature. The scenery was pleasant, though but slightly -varied—gentle wooded acclivities everywhere, alternating -with cultivated interspaces surrounding towns and -villages. The inhabitants were Mandingoes, untroubled -by the trammels of clothes, Pagans for the most part, -and confirmed spirit drinkers; the rest Mohammedans, -respectable in character, decent in dress and behaviour, -lovers of education and religion, haters of strong -drink.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> - -<p>By both divisions of the community Park was hospitably -received, and treated to such simple fare and lodging -as they themselves possessed. With daily practice -the fatigues of the way became less harassing, while a -keen appetite, and the knowledge that absolutely nothing -else was to be had, made otherwise coarse food seem -palatable. Gradually a new standard of comfort was -formed on a scale proportionate to present possibilities, -so that at length positive enjoyment could be got out of -both food and lodging which previously would have been -deemed repulsive and miserable.</p> - -<p>From the district of Walli Park entered that of Wuli. -At Medina, the capital of the latter, he was received -kindly by the king, who strongly dissuaded him from -proceeding further east into countries where the white -man was unknown, and where the fate of Houghton -might be his. But Park was not to be discouraged, -seeing which the king provided him with a guide to -take him on his way.</p> - -<p>From Medina the route diverged from the Gambia, -and passed E.N.E. towards the Senegal. For some days -nothing special characterised the march. Everywhere, -however, the explorer gets interesting glimpses of the -life and ways of the natives, of their genius for story-telling -and their forensic skill, or of their love of wrestling, -an art in which they are such adepts that he -“thinks that few Europeans would have been able to -cope with the conqueror.”</p> - -<p>At one place he finds that the men have a curious -way of administering disciplinary punishment to troublesome -wives.</p> - -<p>Evidently in the huge feminine establishments of the -Mandingo husband the ordinary human hand is unable to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> -keep the women in due subjection and order. The unfortunate -husband with trouble in the house, and afraid to -tackle the offender or offenders in the ordinary manner, -has recourse to underhand ways. In every village a -masquerading dress is kept for the use of Mumbo Jumbo, -a mysterious person whose business it is to seek out and -punish wayward wives. When a husband finds matters -becoming too hot for him in his household, he secretly -possesses himself of this dress and disappears into the -woods. At nightfall frightful noises are heard near the -town—the signal that Mumbo Jumbo is abroad. Terror -falls upon every mutinous and erring member of the frail -yet troublesome sex, for no one knows on whom the -rod shall descend. None, however, dare to disobey the -summons, for now they have to deal with the devil himself, -backed up by all the male powers of the village. -For the men the occasion is a joyous one—though -not so for the women. All hurry to the meeting-place -to take part in the proceedings, and unite in -the active assertion of marital authority. But the -victim is not immediately pounced upon. The terrors -and uncertainties of conscious backsliders must be endured -for hours, cloaked beneath a well-simulated air -of innocence and careless gaiety. The time is spent -in songs and dances, as if to celebrate the coming detection -of the rebel and the triumph of order and the -principle of masculine rule. About midnight the witch-like -revelry ceases, and a frost of uneasy silence falls -upon the female throng. Who is to be the victim? The -next moment the question is practically answered, as -one of the number is seized, stripped naked, tied to a -post, and severely scourged amid the applause of the -crowd, loudest among whom are the ninety and nine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> -other women, each of whom a moment before had -thought herself a possible sufferer.</p> - -<p>A similar spirit is not unknown in our own country -and times.</p> - -<p>On the 11th December Mungo Park, without mishap -or discouragement, had reached Kujar, the frontier -town of Wuli, to the east.</p> - -<p>Between Wuli and Bondou, the next country, there -lay a waterless wilderness, two days’ march in extent. -The guide from the King of Wuli had here to return, -and his place was taken by three elephant hunters.</p> - -<p>At Kujar, Park found himself examined with an increased -curiosity and reverence, indicating a much less -degree of familiarity with the white man.</p> - -<p>On the 12th the party started for the passage of the -wilderness, minus one of the guides, who had absconded -with the money he had received in advance. Before -proceeding far the two remaining guides insisted on -stopping till they had ensured a safe journey by preparing -a charm which would divert all danger from -them. The charm was simple enough, and consisted in -muttering a few sentences over a stone, which was afterwards -spat upon and thrown in the direction of travel—a -process repeated three times.</p> - -<p>At midday the little party of travellers reached a tree, -called by the natives <i>Neema Faba</i>, which was hung all -over with offerings of rags and scraps of cloth to propitiate -the evil spirit of the place. This practice prevails -throughout the length and breadth of savage Africa, -though Park appears to have mistaken its meaning, -and thinking it due to the desire of travellers to indicate -that water was near, followed their example by hanging -on one of the boughs a handsome piece of cloth. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> -the neighbouring pool, where they had proposed to -camp, signs of a recently extinguished fire made them -suspicious of the vicinity of robbers, and they therefore -pushed ahead to the next well, which they did not reach -till eight in the evening.</p> - -<p>For the first time the dangers and difficulties of his -journey were brought vividly home to Park when after a -hard day’s work he and his party had to lie out in the -open, on the bare ground, surrounded by their animals, -and had to keep strict watch and ward for possible -attack. With daylight they filled their water-skins -and calabashes and set out for Falika, the western -frontier town of Bondou, which they reached before -midday.</p> - -<p>In Bondou, Park found new aspects of nature and -other races of men.</p> - -<p>For fertility the land was unsurpassed. Lying on the -parting ridge between the Gambia and the Senegal, it -was better drained than the country left behind, a fact -evidenced by the appearance of the mimosa. Towards -the east it rose into ranges of hills.</p> - -<p>Far different, too, were the Fulah inhabitants. A -tawny complexion, small, well-shaped features, and soft, -silky hair, distinguished them at a glance from the negro -races around them. Among them Mohammedanism was -the prevailing religion, though not by any means exercised -intolerantly, “for the system of Mahomet is made -to extend itself by means abundantly more efficacious. -By establishing schools in the different towns, where -many of the Pagan as well as Mohammedan children are -taught to read the Koran, and instructed in the tenets -of the Prophet, the Mohammedan priests fix a bias on -the mind and form the character of their young disciples<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> -which no accidents of life can ever afterwards remove or -alter.” Of which latter fact let our Christian missionaries -take note, and if possible learn a lesson therefrom.</p> - -<p>This remarkable race did not originally belong to -Bondou. Further south they were in even greater force, -though scattered in more or less independent communities -from Lake Chad to the Atlantic, a fact destined, -after Park’s time, to have the most important -bearing upon the history of the whole of the Western -and Central Sudan.</p> - -<p>Everywhere Park found the Fulahs remarkable for -their industry, and no less successful in agriculture -than in pastoral pursuits, which seem to have been their -original speciality. In their hands Bondou developed a -degree of wealth unknown in neighbouring states. Its -prosperity, however, was also in great measure due to -its being on the chief highway of the commerce from -the interior to the coast, considerable duties being -levied on all merchandise passing through it.</p> - -<p>At Falika, Park secured the services of an officer of -the King of Bondou as guide as far as Fatticonda, the -capital.</p> - -<p>On resuming their journey a violent quarrel broke -out between two of Park’s companions, which would -probably have ended in bloodshed, but for the interference -of the white man, and his determined threat -that he would shoot down the first who again drew -sword—an ultimatum which had the desired effect. -The rest of the march was accomplished in sullen -silence, till a good supper terminated all heart-burnings, -and animosities were forgotten under the influence -of the diverting stories and sweet harmonies of an -itinerant musician.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the 15th the party crossed the Nereko, a considerable -branch of the Gambia, and stayed for the night at -Kurkarany, a walled town provided with a mosque. -Four days later they crossed a dry stony height covered -with mimosas, and entered the basin of the Senegal.</p> - -<p>They were now more within the sphere of influence -of French traders, who, as Park soon saw, had succeeded -with characteristic genius in suiting the taste of the -ladies of the country. These he found dressed in -a thin French gauze, admirably adapted for the hot -climate, and rendered dear to its wearers by the -manner in which it displayed and heightened their -charms. Their manners proved to be as irresistible as -their dress, so that Park found it impossible to withstand -their appeals for amber, beads, and other bits of -showy finery. Having despoiled him of all he had, -these “sturdy beggars” tore his cloak, cut the buttons -from his servant’s clothes, and were proceeding to other -outrages, when finding this more than his gallantry -could stand, he mounted his horse and fled, leaving -them disconsolate, but with abundant souvenirs.</p> - -<p>Next day the Falemé, a turbulent tributary of the -Senegal, was reached. The natives were actively engaged -fishing, and the country around was covered with large -and beautiful fields of millet.</p> - -<p>It was not without apprehension that Park on the 21st -December entered Fatticonda, the capital of Bondou. -His predecessor Houghton had here been plundered and -badly used, and he had every reason to fear a similar -fate. But the situation was not to be evaded, so he -braced himself up as best he might to face whatever -was in store for him.</p> - -<p>On entering the town, he and his party took up their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> -station at the Palaver House or Bentang, as is the -fashion of strangers, who thus make known their necessities, -and mutely appeal for a night’s lodging. They -had not long to wait before a respectable slatee invited -them to his house.</p> - -<p>An hour afterwards a messenger came to conduct the -traveller to the king. Finding himself led out of the -town, Park began to fear a trap, but was reassured on -being shown the king sitting under a tree, and hearing -that such was his way of giving a private audience. -The stranger’s statement that he was no trader, and -that he only travelled from motives of curiosity, was -received with incredulity.</p> - -<p>In the evening Park proceeded to make a more formal -call. First, however, he concealed some of his goods in -the roof of the hut, and donned his best coat, hoping -thus to save them from the possible plundering he might -be subjected to.</p> - -<p>The king’s quarters were found to be converted into -a species of citadel by a high mud wall, having a number -of inner courts, each court containing several huts. After -threading a series of intricate passages guarded by armed -sentinels, the king, Almami, was at last reached. Again -he showed himself but half satisfied with the white -man’s explanations of the object of his visit. The idea -of travelling merely to gratify curiosity was too new -to his experience. It seemed the fancy of a madman. -The presents offered put him in good humour, however, -in particular the gift of a large umbrella.</p> - -<p>As Park was about to take his leave, Almami stopped -him, and commenced a eulogium of the generosity and -immense wealth of the white men. From the general -he came down to the particular, and had much that was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> -flattering to say of his guest for the time being—a praise -soon directed pointedly to the traveller’s handsome coat -and shining buttons, until at length it became clear to -its owner that it was not only admired but coveted. -There was nothing for it but to take the coat off and -lay it at the feet of the wily monarch, who did his best -to console the giver by declaring that henceforth the garment -should be his state dress for all great occasions.</p> - -<p>For once Park’s caution had overreached its object.</p> - -<p>Next morning the traveller visited by request the -wives of Almami. He found himself surrounded by a -dozen young and handsome women, decorated with gold -and amber, who clamoured for physic and beads, and to -have some blood taken from them. They rallied him -upon the whiteness of his skin, which they said was -due to his having been dipped in milk when an infant; -and on the prominence of his nose, which they declared -had been pinched into that shape by his mother. Park -was equal to the occasion. He had compliments for all -of them. The glossy jet of their skin and the contours -of their <i>retroussé</i> noses, the bright glitter of their eyes -and brilliant whiteness of their teeth were alike praised. -This delicate flattery, with the addition of some bloodletting -and a quantity of drastic medicine, was irresistible; -and, though Park does not say so, undoubtedly -the good impression he left behind among the ladies -contributed materially to his immunity from the fate -of his predecessor. Not only was he not plundered, -but his baggage was not even searched. Still better, -Almami on parting gave him five drachms of gold.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd the traveller resumed his journey in -the best of spirits after his unexpectedly good reception. -At mid-day a halt was called for rest and refreshment,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> -by way of preparation for the passage of the dangerous -district lying between Bondou and the next country, -Kajaaga, which it would be necessary to traverse under -cover of night.</p> - -<p>As soon as the people of the village were asleep, the -donkeys were reloaded, and as silently as possible, so as -not to disturb the villagers, the party passed out into -the wilderness. The moon was shining brightly, illumining -their way. The air was perfectly still, raising -neither sigh nor rustle from leaf or bough. The -deep solitudes of the forest were undisturbed save by -the solemn impressive howling of wild beasts, and -shrieks and hoots of night-birds which mingled discordantly -with the deafening musical uproar of myriad -insects, and the clutter of innumerable frogs. Except -in whispers, not a word was uttered. Every one -was on the alert, at times guiding the animals, more -often peering ahead, or to right and left, on the lookout -for possible robbers. Happily no human enemies -appeared, though many were the alarms, as from time to -time an unusual sound, or the vaguely descried figure of -a prowling hyena, made each man seize his gun with a -firmer grasp. Towards morning a village was reached -where the little party were enabled to rest themselves -and their animals before entering in the afternoon the -country of Kajaaga.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>ACROSS THE SENEGAL BASIN.</i></span></h2> - -<p>The further Park proceeded east the drier and purer -became the climate, and the more interesting the landscape. -In Kajaaga, lying between the Falemé and the -Senegal, he found a country everywhere interspersed -with a pleasing variety of hills and valleys, to which -the serpentine windings of the Senegal descending from -the rocky heights gave both picturesqueness and beauty. -The inhabitants, unlike the Fulahs, were jet black in -complexion, resembling in this respect the Joloffs nearer -the coast.</p> - -<p>The people of Kajaaga are known as Serawulies, and -are noted for their keen trading propensities—at this time -chiefly directed towards supplying slaves to the British -factories on the Gambia.</p> - -<p>On the 24th December Park entered Joag, the western -frontier town, and was there hospitably received by the -chief man of the place, officially known as Dooty or -Duté. The town was surrounded by a high mud wall, -as was also every individual private establishment. -Though the headman and the principal inhabitants were -Mohammedans, it appeared that the great mass of the -people were still Pagans, as was sufficiently shown by -the nature of their wild night revelries—“the ladies in -their dances vying with each other in displaying the most -voluptuous movements imaginable.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> - -<p>Park’s trials were now about to commence. During -the night a number of horsemen arrived, and after talking -with the host, took up their quarters in the Palaver -House beside the traveller himself. Thinking the latter -was asleep, one of them attempted to steal his gun, but -finding he could not effect his purpose undiscovered, he -desisted from the attempt. This, however, was but a -foretaste of coming trouble. It was easy to see that -Johnson was growing very uneasy at the aspect of affairs; -not without cause either, as very soon became evident. -Two of Park’s companions, who had been at a dance in -a neighbouring village, came in with the news that a -party of the king’s horsemen had been heard inquiring -if the white man had passed, and on being told that -he was at Joag, had immediately galloped off in that -direction.</p> - -<p>Even while they were speaking the horsemen arrived, -and next moment Park found himself surrounded by -some twenty soldiers, each carrying a musket. Resistance -was useless; he could only wait in much anxiety -to hear his fate.</p> - -<p>At length, after a brief interval, a member of the -party, who was loaded with an enormous number of -charms to ward off all forms of evil, opened their business -in a long harangue. The white man, they said, -had violated the laws of the country by entering it without -paying the customary duties, and had accordingly -forfeited everything he possessed. The soldiers had -orders to take him to the king by force if necessary.</p> - -<p>Conceive the position Park was now in. Utter ruin -stared him in the face, and the collapse of all his cherished -schemes. To fight was out of the question. All he could -do was to try to gain a little time to think matters out,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> -and seek the advice of his companions and host. They -were unanimous in declaring that it would be disastrous -to him to accompany the horsemen. A long argument -with the spokesman ensued, by dint of which, and the -present of Almami’s five drachms of gold, the messenger -became somewhat mollified.</p> - -<p>They demanded, however, to be shown the baggage, -from which they helped themselves to whatever they happened -to fancy; and having thus despoiled their victim -of half his goods, they left him to his gloomy reflections -and an indifferent supper after a day of fast.</p> - -<p>Thus reduced in his already scanty resources, and his -power to travel correspondingly limited, Park found but -Job’s comforters in his companions. One and all they -urged him to turn back from his hopeless task. Johnson, -especially, laughed at the very idea of proceeding further, -miserably provided as they were. But the spirit of the -leader rose superior to his misfortunes, and he never -for a moment admitted the idea of retreat. While -strength remained there could be no flinching from his -task. Yet his thoughts were gloomy enough that night -as he sat reviewing his situation through the hours of -darkness by the side of a smouldering fire. Morning -brought no improvement to his position. The scanty -supper was followed by no breakfast.</p> - -<p>What few articles still remained dared not be produced, -lest they too should be plundered. It was resolved, -therefore, to pass the day without food, trusting -to Providence for a stray meal sooner or later.</p> - -<p>As the day wore on the pangs of hunger began to -make themselves felt. To allay this in some measure -the unfortunate travellers chewed straws, a make-believe -yielding as scant comfort as it did sustenance.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> -But Park’s faith in God was not belied. Towards -evening an old female slave passed by with a basket on -her head, and struck by his woe-begone, famished look, -she asked him if he had had his dinner. Thinking she -spoke in jest, he did not reply. Not so his boy Demba, -who volubly, and with the eloquence of suffering, told -the story of their misfortunes and their needs. In a -moment the old woman had her basket on the ground, -and a plentiful supply of ground-nuts was placed in -their hands, the donor thereafter marching away without -waiting for a word of thanks.</p> - -<p>Further good fortune was now in store for them. It -happened that Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo king -of Kasson further east, had sent his nephew to the King -of Kajaaga to try to arrange some disputes which were -threatening to lead to war. The embassy, however, had -met with no success. Returning homeward, the king’s -nephew had heard of there being a white man at Joag -who was desirous of visiting Kasson, and curiosity -brought him to see the stranger. On hearing Park’s -story, the young noble offered him his protection all -the way—an offer that was eagerly and gratefully -accepted.</p> - -<p>Thus guided and protected, Park set out for Kasson -on the 27th. Some distance on the way Johnson, in -spite of his life in Jamaica and his seven years’ residence -in England, showed that he still was saturated with the -superstitious ideas of his youth by producing a white -chicken and tying it by the leg to a particular tree as -an offering to the spirits of the woods. The same belief -in nature spirits has already been alluded to in a previous -chapter. Anthropologists tell us that it must at -one time have been universal, and evidences of it are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> -found not only in the charming legends of the Greeks, -with their nymphs of meadow, grove, and spring, and -dryads growing with the oaks and pines, but also in -our own Anglo-Saxon words.</p> - -<p>In the evening the party safely arrived at Sami, on -the banks of the Senegal. Park describes the sister -river to the Gambia as being at this point a beautiful -but shallow stream, flowing slowly over a bed of sand -and gravel. The banks are high and covered with verdure, -and are backed by an open cultivated country, the -distant hills of Felow and Bambuk adding an additional -beauty to the landscape. A few miles below Sami -was the former French trading station of St. Joseph, -founded by Sieur Brue, but abandoned in the time -of Park. Next morning the party proceeded a little -further up the river to Kayi, where they crossed with -no small difficulty and danger, the animals being swum -over, and the baggage conveyed in a miserable canoe.</p> - -<p>While Park was crossing by the same means the canoe -was capsized by an injudicious movement on the part of -his protector, but being near the bank, no harm came of -it, and a second attempt landed him safely in the country -of Kasson.</p> - -<p>The young noble, having once brought the white -traveller into his own country, soon showed that no -generous motives had prompted his assistance. Unhesitatingly -he demanded a handsome present. Park, -seeing that it was useless either to upbraid or to complain, -with a heavy heart made the necessary selection -from his scanty stock of goods, and presented the offering -forthwith.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 29th the party reached Tisi, -where Park was lodged with his protector’s father,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> -Tiggity Sego, the head man of the place. Next morning -a slave having run away, the use of Park’s horse was -asked for the chase, to which he “readily consented, -and in about an hour they all returned with the slave, -who was severely flogged, and afterwards put in irons.”</p> - -<p>Park was detained for several days at Tisi, while his -horse was further used by his host on a more extended -mission. During his enforced detention our traveller -had an opportunity of seeing a somewhat more drastic -method of propagating Islam than any he had yet witnessed. -An embassy of ten persons arrived from the -King of Futa Larra, a country to the west of Bondou, -and announced to the assembled inhabitants that unless -all the people of Kasson embraced the Mohammedan -religion, and evinced their conversion by saying solemn -public prayers, he, the King of Futa Larra, would certainly -join his arms to those of Kajaaga.</p> - -<p>Such a coalition would have been disastrous to Kasson, -and without a moment’s hesitation the conversion was -agreed to. Accordingly, one and all did as was desired, -offering up solemn prayers in token that they were no -longer Pagans, but followers of Mohammed.</p> - -<p>It was not till the 8th of January 1796 that Demba -Sego, the young noble, returned with the traveller’s horse, -whereupon Park, impatient at the delay, declared that -he could spend no more time at Tisi, and must proceed -to the capital. He was informed he could not do so -until he had paid the customary trading duties. Some -amber and tobacco were offered, but they were laid aside -as totally inadequate for a present to a man of Tiggity -Sego’s importance. Once more Park had to submit to -seeing his baggage ransacked. One-half he had already -lost at Joag, and now half of what remained had to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> -be similarly sacrificed to satisfy the rapacity of his tormentors.</p> - -<p>Thus despoiled, Park was permitted to depart next -morning. His course, which so far had been E.N.E., was -now E.S.E. In the afternoon the party arrived at the -village of Jumbo, the birthplace of the blacksmith who -had faithfully accompanied Park from Pisania. The -entire population turned out to welcome back their -townsman with dance and songs. The poor fellow’s -meeting with his blind mother was most touching. Unable -to see him, she stretched out her arms to welcome -him, and after eagerly satisfying herself by touch of -face and hands that it was indeed her son who had -returned, she gave wild expression to her delight. From -which Park concludes, “that whatever differences there -are between the Negro and the European in the conformation -of the nose and the colour of the skin, there is -none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic feelings -of our common nature.”</p> - -<p>This affectionate welcome over, the villagers had time -to turn their attention to the white man. At first they -looked or affected to look upon him as a being dropped -from the clouds, the women and children shrinking -from him half in fear, half in awe. On being assured -by their countryman that he was a good-tempered and -inoffensive creature, they gradually laid aside their misgivings, -and began to feel the texture of his clothes, and -assure themselves that he was indeed cast in much the -same mould as themselves. Still his slightest movement -was sufficient to arouse their tremors and make -them scamper off like a flock of sheep which had -valorously marched up to view a sleeping dog.</p> - -<p>Next day Park continued his journey to a place called<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> -Sulu, where he had an order from Dr. Laidley on a slatee -for the value of five slaves. Hardly had he been hospitably -received by Dr. Laidley’s client, when messengers -arrived from Kuniakary with orders that he should -proceed at once to the king. Thither accordingly he -journeyed, arriving late in the evening.</p> - -<p>The rule of “like master, like man” did not hold -good in relation to the King of Kasson and such of his -subordinates as Park so far had come in contact with. -His reception by one whose “success in war and the -mildness of his behaviour in times of peace had much -endeared him to his subjects,” was an agreeable variation -to the hard fate which had lately dogged his footsteps. -The king was not only satisfied with his visitor’s -story and his poor present, but promised him every -assistance in his power. He warned him, however, that -the road to Bambarra was for the time being rendered -extremely dangerous, if not altogether impassable, by the -outbreak of war between that state and the adjoining -one of Kaarta. In the hope of the arrival of more reassuring -news Park waited four days, staying the while -with the Sulu slatee, from whom he received gold dust -to the value of three slaves. This transaction coming to -the ears of the king, Park was compelled to add considerably -to the value of his former present.</p> - -<p>The country around Sulu presented an enchanting -prospect of simple rural plenty, while the scenery surpassed -in richness and variety any Park had yet seen. -The density of the population was illustrated by the fact -that the King of Kasson could raise within sound of his -great war drum an army of four thousand fighting men. -The one drawback to the amenities of the place was the -numerous bands of wolves and hyenas which nightly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> -attacked the cattle, and were only to be driven off by -organised parties of men with fires and torches.</p> - -<p>From Sulu, Park proceeded S.E. up the rocky valley -of the Kriko, meeting everywhere swarms of people -leaving the expected seat of war in Kaarta.</p> - -<p>On the 8th he left the charming valley of the Kriko, -and travelled over a rough stony country to the ridge -of hills which forms the boundary-line between Kasson -and Kaarta. Thence his way lay down a stony precipitous -path into the dried-up bed of a stream, whose -overarching trees afforded to the wayfarer a grateful -shade. Emerging from this romantic glen, the party -found itself on the level sandy plains of Kaarta, having -the hilly ranges of Fuludu on their right.</p> - -<p>On the third day from Sulu, Park witnessed a new -method of consulting the Oracle as to the fate in store -for them on the road. To his great alarm, their guide, -who was a Mohammedan in name and a Pagan at heart, -came to an abrupt standstill in a dark lonely part of a -wood. Taking a hollow piece of bamboo he whistled -very loud three times. Thereafter he dismounted, laid -his spear across the pathway, and again whistled thrice. -For a short time he listened as if for an answer, and -receiving none, told Park that now they might proceed, -for the way was clear of danger.</p> - -<p>Next day the superstitious ideas cherished by the -natives were further illustrated. Park had wandered -some distance from his party, when, just as he reached -the brow of a slight eminence, a couple of negro horsemen -galloped from the bushes. Immediately on seeing -each other Park and the negroes alike came to an abrupt -stop, each equally filled with alarm. The white man was -the first to regain his presence of mind, and concluding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> -that advance was his safer course, he moved towards them. -This was too much for the terrified natives, who thought -they saw in the strange figure before them some terrible -spirit. One of them, with a wild look of horror, turned -and fled; the other, paralysed beyond action, could only -cover his eyes and mutter his prayers. In this position -he would have remained stationary, but for the instinct -of his horse, which led him to follow his companion.</p> - -<p>On the afternoon of the 12th, Park and his party -entered the capital of Kaarta. On announcing their -arrival to the king, a messenger was sent to convey them -to a hut and protect them from the inquisitive crowd. -In carrying out the latter part of his commission the -messenger signally failed, and for the rest of the afternoon -our explorer remained on exhibition, the hut being -filled and emptied thirteen times by an admiring and -curious mob.</p> - -<p>In the evening his majesty gave Park an audience, -seated on a clay divan raised a couple of feet above -the floor, and covered with a leopard’s skin, the sign of -authority. The way to the throne lay through a long -lane formed by a huge crowd of fighting men on the one -side, and of women and children on the other.</p> - -<p>The reception of the stranger was highly encouraging. -He was told, however, that he had chosen a most inopportune -time to attempt to pass into Bambarra, and he was -advised to return to Kasson, and there await the end of -the war just commencing. That, however, meant the -loss of the dry season, and Park dreaded the thought -of spending the rainy season in the interior. “These -considerations, and the aversion I felt at the idea of -returning without having made a greater progress in -discovery, made me determined to go forward.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> - -<p>Hearing this determination, the king showed his -kindly intentions by pointing out that there was another—though -a more dangerous and circuitous route—to -Bambarra, namely, that by way of Ludamar, an Arab -district to the north-west of Kaarta. At the same time -he promised to give the white man guides for this route -as far as Jarra, his frontier town. With this offer Park -only too gladly closed.</p> - -<p>Before the audience ended a horseman arrived in -foaming haste to announce that the Bambarra army -had left Fuludu for Kaarta.</p> - -<p>Next morning, after Park had sent his horse-pistols -and holsters as a present to his royal host, a large escort -was provided to protect and lead him on his way to -Ludamar.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>TO LUDAMAR.</i></span></h2> - -<p>It must have been with no pleasant sensations that Park -turned aside from his direct route E.S.E. to the Niger, -and proceeded north instead to Ludamar. In addition -to the increased distance, there were the hundredfold -greater dangers to be encountered. Houghton had preceded -him over the same road, with what results his -successor only too well knew. And yet, as matters -turned out, it was perhaps as well that he elected to -try his fate by the more circuitous route. Before many -days were over Kaarta was desolated by the Bambarra -army, which only retired laden with spoil on finding that -the last refuge of the king could neither be stormed nor -reduced by starvation. The trouble of the Kaartans -did not end with the war with Bambarra, for they fell -out with the people of Kasson, and before the year was -ended had to face a coalition of various enemies.</p> - -<p>On the 13th February Park started for Ludamar. His -escort of over two hundred horsemen seems to have been -of little use, for in the evening the hut in which his -luggage was deposited was entered, and some of his -rapidly diminishing stores stolen. Next day he came -upon some negroes gathering the fruit of the <i>Rhamnus -lotus</i>, which being converted into a species of bread, -forms no inconsiderable addition to the food of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> -natives of Kaarta and Ludamar. This shrub, Park does -not doubt, is the lotus mentioned by Pliny as the food -of the Libyan Lotophagi.</p> - -<p>The increased dangers of the new route were amply -illustrated as Ludamar was approached. Bands of marauding -Moors were taking advantage of the unsettled -state of the country to carry off cattle with impunity. -At one town Park saw five Moors calmly select sixteen -of the finest oxen of a herd, and in the presence of five -hundred negroes drive them away without even a show -of resistance. One young man who had been out in -the fields, and had shown more courage, had been shot, -and was brought in dying. His mother, frantic with -grief, filled the air with her shrill shrieks and lamentations, -clapping her hands the while. “He never told a -lie” was the astonishing encomium passed upon him, a -phenomenal occurrence in a continent where lying is a -virtue, and the art is raised to its utmost perfection. -On being assured that all hope of saving the boy’s life -was gone, some good Mohammedans did their best to -ensure him—though hitherto a Pagan—a place in Paradise, -by getting him to repeat the sacred formula of Islam, -in which pious effort they happily were successful.</p> - -<p>On the 17th, Park, in company with numbers of people -flying from the terrors of war, travelled during the night, -to escape the more immediate danger of Moorish robbers. -After resting during the early morning, they resumed -their journey at daybreak. Two hours later they passed -Simbing, from which Houghton had despatched the -graphic letter, already quoted, telling of his destitute -condition, but unalterable intention of proceeding to -Timbuktu. At noon, Jarra, the southern frontier -town of Ludamar, was reached. It was from this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> -place that Park’s predecessor was decoyed into the -desert by Moors, and after being stripped, was left -either to die of starvation or be murdered by passing -ruffians, a point never satisfactorily cleared up, though -Park was shown the spot where he breathed his last.</p> - -<p>At Jarra, Park was hospitably received by a Gambia -slatee, who had borrowed goods from Dr. Laidley to the -value of six slaves, for which debt Park was provided -with an order. The debt was acknowledged, but the -merchant pleaded inability to pay more than two slaves.</p> - -<p>Our traveller had now entered a more inhospitable -region. Ludamar was found to be inhabited by negroes, -an Arab race largely intermixed with negro blood forming -the rulers and possessing the worst characteristics of -both sides of descent.</p> - -<p>Park and his attendants were not long in experiencing -the brutal and inhospitable character of this degraded -hybrid people.</p> - -<p>Difficulties had met them at every step of their journey, -and now nothing but new terrors loomed up before them. -So great did these seem, and so overbearing and threatening -was the attitude of the Moors, that Park’s servants -declared they would rather lose everything they possessed -than proceed further. Not only were they liable to -robbery and ill-usage, but not improbable to slavery also. -These facts were so patent that, though unwavering in -his own determination to push on, Park could not bring -himself to force his men to follow him. Accordingly -he made arrangements for parting with them. Among -other things, he prepared duplicates of his papers to put -into the hands of Johnson. Meanwhile a messenger -had been sent to Ali, chief of the country, to ask permission -to pass through his country to Bambarra. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> -request was accompanied by a present of fine garments -of cotton cloth which Park purchased from the slatee in -exchange for his fowling-piece. Fourteen days elapsed -before an answer was returned, and then he was told to -follow Ali’s messenger to Gumba.</p> - -<p>On preparing to depart, hopeful as ever that yet he -should live to see the Niger, he was further cheered by -the fidelity of his boy Demba, who seeing his master was -not to be dissuaded from his determination to proceed, -resolved not to desert him, whatever might be the result. -It then came out that Johnson, whose residence among -Europeans had only served to corrupt him, had treacherously -tried to seduce Demba to return with him and -leave the white man to his fate.</p> - -<p>To diminish the inducements to plunder, Park, before -starting, left as many of his personal effects behind him -as he could spare. For two days the little party toiled -over a sandy country. On the third day they reached -Dina, a large town built of stone and clay. The reception -Park here met with at the hands of the natives was -atrocious. Every opprobrious epithet which their vocabulary -could supply was hurled at him. Not content with -words, they proceeded to spit upon and otherwise heap -ignominy upon the stranger, ending by tearing open -his bundles and helping themselves to whatever they -had a mind. For the victim of these outrages there -was nothing but patience and resignation, with which -virtues, indeed, he seems to have been amply endowed. -He might be robbed of his material resources, but his -spiritual stores remained untouched. With him, while -there was life there was hope.</p> - -<p>Not so with his servants. They had no magnet to -draw them on, no higher impulse than monetary reward.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> -Further forward they would not go. So be it! Their -retreat was excusable, but <i>Onward</i> must be their -master’s watchword so long as any pencil of light glimmered -through a loophole—<i>Onward</i> as long as limbs -and strength and hope held out.</p> - -<p>Not daring to face another day of insult and plunder, -nor yet a night of gloomy reflection, Park gathered -together such valuables as he could carry, left the village -under cover of darkness, and with magnificent resolution -started alone on his forlorn hope of reaching the -Niger.</p> - -<p>As the huts disappeared behind him, the moon shone -out bright and clear in the heavens, filling the night -with its mellow beauty, both literally and figuratively -lighting up the dark path before him.</p> - -<p>From all sides came the roar of wild beasts, adding -to the terrors of the situation. Undismayed, however, -and still unwavering, he plodded onward through the -night. He had not proceeded far when a clear halloo -stopped his resolute footsteps. The accents sounded -familiar, and in a few moments more he was joined by -his faithful servant Demba. Park then found that the -boy had made up his mind to stand by him, though -Ali’s messenger returned to his master.</p> - -<p>The little party of two now continued their journey, -travelling steadily on over a sandy country covered with -asclepias. At midday they reached a few huts, but -were prevented from drawing water from the village -well by the appearance of a lion. They therefore had -to endure the pangs of thirst with patience till the evening, -when they entered a town occupied by Fulahs. -Park now seemed to have touched the bottom of his -misfortunes. For several days he proceeded unmolested<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> -through Ludamar, each new day, each mile nearer his -goal, filling his sanguine mind with brighter and fresher -hopes.</p> - -<p>On the 5th March he reached Dalli. The villagers, -hearing that a white man had arrived, deserted the -revelries attendant on a feast, and hastened to see the -phenomenal stranger. Not pell-mell, however, like the -rude mob of Dina, but in a decorous procession, and -headed by flute-players, as if they felt themselves -honoured by the visit. Round Park’s hut they continued -to dance and sing till midnight, during which -time he had to keep himself continuously on exhibition -to satisfy their simple and kindly if somewhat overwhelming -curiosity.</p> - -<p>Next day Park moved on to a village to the east of -Dalli to escape the crowd which usually assembled there -in the evening. Again his reception was most hospitable. -The head man considered himself highly distinguished -by having such a guest in his house, and showed -it practically by killing two fine sheep to feast him and -his own friends.</p> - -<p>Park was now only two days from Gumba, the -first town of Bambarra. He had but to reach that -place to be safe from the thieving and brutal half-caste -Moors, whose rule of the unhappy negroes was but -another name for rapine and plunder. His hopes were -high that now the success of his mission was almost -assured. In fancy he saw himself already on the bank -of the Niger, which he had come so far and suffered so -much to see. His imagination revelled in a thousand -delightful scenes in his future progress.</p> - -<p>Thus buoyed up with glowing thoughts, he abandoned -himself with unrestrained gaiety to the harmless festivi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>ties -organised by his negro host, whose manners were in -striking contrast to his experience of those of the Ludamar -Moors.</p> - -<p>But just when his golden dream was at its brightest, -it was shattered by a rude awakening. Messengers -arrived from Ali with orders to convey the white man -either peaceably or by force to his camp at Benaun. -Park was struck dumb with painful emotions, though -slightly relieved on hearing that the sole cause of his -being taken back was the curiosity of Fatima, Ali’s -favourite wife. That lady’s desire to see a white man -being satisfied, the chief promised that he should be -conveyed safely on his way to Bambarra.</p> - -<p>There was no gainsaying Ali’s orders, and argument -was of no avail. Once more Park must fall back on -his patience and his hope. Now practically prisoners, -he and his faithful boy Demba were carried back to -Dina, where his reception had already been so brutal. -Here he was brought before one of Ali’s sons, who soon -gave him a taste of the dangers and indignities in store -for him. Barely was he seated when a gun was handed -to him, and he was told to repair the lock and dye -the stock blue. Knowing nothing of such matters, -Park could only declare his ignorance. He was then -ordered to produce his knives and scissors, and hand -them over to the young tyrant. On Demba attempting -to explain that they had no such articles, their tormentor -sprang up in a fury, seized a musket, and was -about to blow out the poor boy’s brains, when the bystanders -interfered and saved his life.</p> - -<p>After this unpleasant incident master and man beat -a hasty retreat from the hut, and it is little to be -wondered at that the latter tried to escape altogether.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> - -<p>Next day the prisoners were conveyed to Benaun, the -headquarters of the paramount chief of Ludamar, under -a terrible sun, and over burning sands. They travelled -all day with almost no water, the pangs of thirst being -slightly alleviated by the use of gum, which keeps the -mouth moist and allays the pain in the throat. In the -evening they arrived at their destination, a temporary -camp, consisting of a great number of dirty-looking -tents scattered without order, among which were large -herds of camels, cattle, and goats. At the outskirts -of the camp, Park, by much entreaty, procured a little -water.</p> - -<p>The arrival of the white traveller was the signal for a -great commotion. Women hastened from their domestic -avocations and forsook their waterpots at the well. The -men mounted their horses—every one came running or -galloping helter-skelter, amid wild screaming and shouting. -In a ferocious mob they surrounded the unhappy -cause of their excitement, pouncing upon him like a -pack of hyenas, tugging and pulling his clothes, threatening -him with all sorts of penalties if he would not -acknowledge the One God and His Prophet. In this -sad plight, half dead with the pangs of thirst and the -fatigues of a desert march, he was hustled and pulled -towards the chief’s tent. When at last he found himself -in the presence of the great man, a single glance at -his face was sufficient to dispel the last hope of better -treatment. Ali was an old man, with an Arab cast of -countenance, on whose every lineament were marked -sullenness and cruelty. While he passively examined -the unfortunate man before him, the women of his -household were more actively engaged inspecting the -dress of the victim and searching his pockets. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> -affected to doubt that he was a man at all, and counted -his fingers and toes to assure themselves that he was -indeed like themselves. Not content even with that, -they must needs have a peep at his white skin, and -pushed aside his garments in order to effect their -purpose.</p> - -<p>When the excitement was at its height, the sacred -call to prayers resounded through the camp, but before -the people fell upon their knees before the One God All -Compassionate and Merciful, with bent body and face -pressed in the dust to acknowledge His Omnipotence, -they had a new indignity to put upon the helpless -stranger. Showing him a wild hog, they bade him kill -and eat it. This he wisely refused. The hog was then -let loose in the belief that it would at once attack the -white man, but instead it rushed at his tormentors. -The sport thus missing its mark, the Moors proceeded -to their devotions, and Park was conveyed to the door of -the tent of Ali’s chief slave, where after much entreaty -he was supplied with a little boiled corn with salt and -water, and then left to pass the night on a mat, exposed -to cold and the dews, and still worse, to the insults and -ribald mirth of the mob which swarmed about him.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>CAPTIVITY IN LUDAMAR.</i></span></h2> - -<p>The treatment which Park now experienced in the camp -of Ali was brutal and barbarous beyond description.</p> - -<p>In the eyes of the degenerate Arabs of Ludamar -he was an object detestable both to God and man—a -Christian and a spy. Everything, therefore, that savage -ingenuity could invent to insult and torture him was -heaped upon him with fiendish glee and eagerness.</p> - -<p>On the morning after his arrival he was confined in -a small square flat-roofed hut built of corn stalks, which -happily admitted the breeze and excluded the sun. The -hog was tied to the hut as a suitable companion to the -hated Christian.</p> - -<p>From morning till night the unhappy prisoner had to -place himself on exhibition, and incessantly demonstrate -the whiteness of his skin, the number of his toes, and -the method of adjusting his dress—for all which torment -he was repaid with curses. In common with the hog, he -was made the sport of men, women, and children alike. -Not even at night was he left to himself, being continually -disturbed by his guards bent on satisfying themselves -that he was safe in the hut, or by thieves seeking what -they could carry away. To these tortures of mind and -body was added the uncertainty of what might be before -him. A council of elders had considered his case, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> -he was variously told that death, the loss of the right -hand, or the putting out of his eyes, was the fate -reserved for him.</p> - -<p>To add to the miseries of his condition, he had to -suffer the hardships attendant on the observance of -Rhamadan, the month of fasting, during which the -faithful are not permitted to eat or drink between sunrise -and sunset. This fast from meat and drink, bad -enough at any time in a scorching climate, was rendered -doubly painful to the unhappy traveller by the extreme -scantiness of the supply doled out to him once in the -twenty-four hours at midnight. Then, too, it was the -hottest time of the year, and so scorching at times were -the winds from the desert, that it was impossible to hold -the hand in a draught without pain. Sandstorms, too, -now and again filled the air to the point of suffocation, -while the heavens overhead were as brass, and the sands -under foot as the floor of an oven.</p> - -<p>Under these distressing conditions Park’s only <i>rôle</i> -was to comply with every command, and patiently endure -every insult, compatible with appearing as useless as possible -to the tyrants, so that they might not be tempted -to detain him for the value of his services.</p> - -<p>Day after day thus passed, each one more miserable -than the preceding, but Park’s iron frame and indomitable -spirit stood it all. Where his savage gaolers failed, -however, the fears and doubts for his future progress -and the ultimate success of his mission threatened to -succeed. The excessive heat and scarcity of water in -the wilderness made escape in the hot season out of -the question, while the hardships and dangers of travel -to be faced in the wet season appeared scarcely less -appalling.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> - -<p>The blackness of the outlook began to cloud even his -sanguine temperament, and the heart sickness of hope -deferred frequently manifested itself in fits of melancholy -and despondency. With the lowering of his mental tone -came also the bodily reaction, and a smart fever was the -result.</p> - -<p>Even then he obtained no alleviation of his sufferings. -His distress was a matter of sport to the Arabs, till life -became a burden to him. He trembled at times lest -the peevishness, irritability, and enfeebled power of self-command -accompanying the disease should cause him -to overleap the bounds of prudence, and in the height -of an outburst of passion commit some act of resentment -which would lead to his death—death, and with his work -unfinished.</p> - -<p>On one of these occasions he left his hut and -walked to some shady trees at a short distance from -the camp, where he lay down in the hope of obtaining -a little solitude. He was discovered by Ali’s son and a -band of horsemen, who ordered him to get up and follow -them back to camp. Park begged to be allowed to stay -a few hours. For answer one of the horsemen drew his -pistol, and presenting it at Park’s head, pulled the trigger. -Happily it did not go off. Once more the brute essayed -his weapon with the same result. None of his companions -made the least attempt to stop him. Helpless, -Park could but sit awaiting his doom, what indeed would -have been a happy release from his miseries, only that -as yet the task he had set himself was unaccomplished. -With renewed precautions the pistol was presented a -third time, when the hapless victim, who so far had not -spoken, begged his would-be murderer to desist, promising -at the same time to return with him to the camp.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> - -<p>Before Ali his position was no better. With fiendish -malignity the latter played with his prisoner as a cat -does with a mouse, opening and shutting the pan of his -pistol and watching the while the effect on the demeanour -of the white man before him. Getting but small amusement -out of his resolute and indifferent mien, he sent -him off at last with the threat that the next time he -was found wandering outside the camp he would be shot -forthwith.</p> - -<p>“One whole month had now elapsed since I was led -into captivity, during which time each returning day -brought me fresh distresses. I watched the lingering -course of the sun with anxiety, and blessed his waning -beams as they shed a yellow lustre along the sandy floor -of my hut, for it was then that my oppressors left me, -and allowed me to pass the sultry night in solitude and -reflection.”</p> - -<p>With habit and time Park began to be inured to his -situation. Hunger and thirst were more easy to bear -than at first, and the people getting accustomed to his -presence, were not quite so troublesome. To beguile the -time he made inquiries regarding the route to Timbuktu -and the Haussa countries, and even got some of his tormentors -to teach him the letters of the Arabic alphabet.</p> - -<p>About the middle of April Ali proceeded north to bring -back his chief wife Fatima. During the chief’s absence, -though Park was less molested than usual, he was also -less regularly supplied with his scanty rations. For -two successive days he received none at all, and had to -endure the pangs of hunger as best he might. This he -found painful enough at first, but soon discovered that -temporary relief might be had by swallowing copious -and repeated draughts of water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> - -<p>Johnson—who meanwhile had been brought from -Dina before he could leave for the coast—and Demba, -not having the spirit of their master to bear them up in -the midst of misfortune, sank into the deepest dejection, -remaining for the most part prostrate on the sands -in a sort of torpid slumber, from which they could -scarcely be roused even when food arrived.</p> - -<p>To the languor and debility brought on by semi-starvation -was added on Park’s part the affliction of sleeplessness; -deep convulsive respirations shook him from -head to foot; semi-blindness seized him, and with difficulty -he fought a frequent tendency to faint.</p> - -<p>But the cup of his misery was not yet full. The -King of Bambarra, incensed at Ali’s refusal to join him -against Daisy, King of Kaarta, proclaimed war against -him. This threw the country into confusion. The camp -at Benaun was at once broken up, and a retreat further -north commenced. On the first day a halt was made at -a negro town called Farreni.</p> - -<p>Again Park’s rations were forgotten. Next day, foreseeing -similar treatment, he proceeded himself to the -head man of the town and begged some food. This was -not only granted, but promised to be continued as long -as he remained in the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>On the 3rd of May Ali’s camp was reached, and found -to be pitched in the midst of a thick wood. Here Park -was presented to Fatima. This lady was singularly -beautiful, according to the Ludamar Arab idea—that is -to say, she was remarkably corpulent. “A woman of -even moderate pretensions to appearance must be one -who cannot walk without a slave under each arm to -support her, and a perfect beauty is a load for a camel.” -To attain this pinnacle of perfection, the girls are gorged<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> -by their mothers with great quantities of kuskus and -camel’s milk, which must be taken no matter what the -appetite may be. “I have seen a poor girl sit crying -with the bowl at her lips for more than an hour, and -her mother watching her all the while with a stick in -her hand, and using it without mercy whenever she -observed that her daughter was not swallowing.”</p> - -<p>At first Fatima affected to be shocked at Park’s -appearance, but showed that she had a woman’s heart -by presenting him with a bowl of milk. Later on she -proved to be his best friend.</p> - -<p>The heat had now become insufferable. Everything -vegetable was scorched up, and the whole country presented -a dreary expanse of sand dotted over with a few -stunted trees and thorny acacia bushes. Water was -almost unattainable, and night and day the wells were -crowded with cattle lowing and fighting with each other -to get at the troughs. The pangs of thirst rendered -many of them furious and ungovernable, while the -weak, unable to contend for a place, endeavoured to -quench their thirst by licking up the liquid mud from -the gutters—frequently with fatal consequences.</p> - -<p>The suffering due to the scarcity of water extended to -the people, and to no one more than the white captive -among them. If his boy Demba attempted to get a -supply of water, he was usually soundly thrashed for his -presumption. This treatment became so intolerable in -the end that Demba would rather have died than go -near the wells. Park and his attendants were in this -way reduced to begging from the negro slaves, but with -indifferent success. Fatima, however, more than once -relieved their necessities. Nevertheless, time after -time, Park “passed the night in the situation of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> -Tantalus. No sooner had I shut my eyes than fancy -would convey me to the streams and rivers of my native -land; then, as I wandered along the verdant brink, I -surveyed the clear stream with transport, and hastened -to swallow the delightful draught; but, alas! disappointment -awakened me, and I found myself a lonely captive -perishing of thirst amidst the wilds of Africa!”</p> - -<p>One night, driven half wild by his tortures, he started -off in search of relief. At every well he found struggling -herdsmen, and from one and all he was driven away with -outrageous abuse. At length at one he found only an -old man and two boys, from whom he was on the point -of receiving what he sought, when, discovering whom -they were about to supply, they dashed the water into -the trough, and told him to drink with the cattle. -Too glad to get water in any way, “I thrust my -head between two of the cows, and drank with great -pleasure, until the water was nearly exhausted, and the -cows began to contend with each other for the last -mouthful.”</p> - -<p>Signs that the wet season was approaching began to -show themselves towards the end of May in frequent -changes of the wind, gathering clouds, and distant -lightning. At the same time Park’s fate was approaching -a crisis, and he began to revolve schemes of escape. -His hopes rose high when discovering that Ali was -about to join some rebellious Kaartans in attacking -Daisy, through the intervention of Fatima, he was -permitted to accompany the expedition as far as Jarra. -Once in Kaarta, he hoped that means would be found -to escape from his barbarous captors.</p> - -<p>Fatima next conferred a further favour on him by -returning part of his clothes, of which he had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> -deprived since he fell into Ali’s hands. Following -these came his horse, now reduced, by hard work and -starvation feeding, to skin and bone, but still fit for -work.</p> - -<p>On the 26th of May, Park set out with the Moors -towards Jarra, accompanied by Johnson and Demba. -At night they camped at a watering-place in the woods, -but the accommodation being limited, Park was compelled -to sleep in the open in the centre of the huts, -where he could more easily be watched.</p> - -<p>In the morning they had to face unprotected all the -violence of a sandstorm, which raged with great fury -the whole day. At times it was impossible to look up. -The cattle, maddened by the driving sand, ran recklessly -hither and thither, threatening to trample the -prisoners to death.</p> - -<p>Next day our traveller’s rising hopes received a -serious check. While preparing to depart a messenger -arrived, who, seizing Demba, told him that henceforth -Ali was to be his master, and that he must return at once -to the camp they had left. With him were to go all his -present master’s effects, though “the old fool” Johnson -might go on to Jarra.</p> - -<p>Park was completely overwhelmed at the idea of his -faithful boy being sent back to such a life of misery as -would be his lot in the household of Ali. Unable to say -a word to the messenger, he ran straight to the chief -himself, and his indignation for once getting the better -of him, he upbraided him in passionate language for -the new injustice he was about to commit, compared to -which all else was in his eyes as nothing.</p> - -<p>To this generous but unwise outburst Ali made no -reply, beyond ordering him, with haughty air and malig<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>nant -smile, to mount his horse immediately or be sent -back likewise. Terrible was the struggle in Park’s -inmost soul to refrain from ridding the world of such a -monster, and giving vent to all the suppressed feelings -of the last two months in one passionate outburst.</p> - -<p>Happily he had not lost complete control over himself -nor the ability to comprehend his situation, and he -retired from the tent a prey to a hundred harassing -emotions.</p> - -<p>“Poor Demba was not less affected than myself. He -had formed a strong attachment towards me, and had -a cheerfulness of disposition which often beguiled the -tedious hours of captivity.” But part they must. “So -having shaken hands with the unfortunate boy, and -blended my tears with his, I saw him led off by three of -Ali’s slaves towards the camp at Bubaker.”</p> - -<p>On the 1st of June, Jarra was once more re-entered, -and Park became again the guest of the slatee. Everything -else now became subordinate for the time being -to the one object of procuring the liberty of Demba. -Before this duty even his own escape became of secondary -importance. All his attempts were ineffectual, -however. Ali could not be prevailed upon to sell or -return his new-made slave, though he never ceased to -hold out hopes that Demba might yet be let off for a -consideration.</p> - -<p>On the 8th, Ali with his horsemen returned to camp -to celebrate a festival, Park, to his great joy, being left -behind in the house of the slatee. Once more he began -to think of his own safety, seeing that now it was proved -beyond a doubt he could be of no use to Demba.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile troubles began to gather rapidly round -Jarra. Ali, after securing the price of his co-opera<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>tion, -treacherously left his allies to their fate. Daisy -with his army was rapidly approaching the town, whose -inhabitants could expect no mercy from their enraged -king. Finding themselves left to their own resources, -the latter made such preparation as was in their power to -defend themselves, at the same time sending away their -women and children, with such corn and cattle as they -could take with them. Park prepared to depart along -with these. He saw clearly that if he continued where -he was he would run the risk of being involved in the -general slaughter if Daisy were successful, or if the -reverse, that he would sooner or later fall a victim to the -Moors. And yet to go forward alone seemed terrible -enough—for Johnson flatly refused to proceed—without -means of protection or goods to purchase the necessaries -of life, or an interpreter to make himself understood in -the Bambarra language.</p> - -<p>The one comparatively easy road was that to the coast, -but “to return to England without accomplishing the -object of my mission was worse than all.”</p> - -<p>The old spirit, never quite killed, was beginning to -reassert itself, with the enjoyment of a certain measure -of free will and liberty. Whatever was to be his fate, -he should meet it, he determined, with his face towards -the Niger.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 26th, the women worked incessantly, -preparing food and packing articles that were not -absolutely necessary for the flight. Early in the morning -they took the road for Bambarra.</p> - -<p>The exodus was affecting in the extreme—the women -and children weeping, the men sullen and dejected—all -of them looking back with regret to the spot where they -had passed their lives, and shuddering at the possible<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> -fate before them. Amid many heartrending scenes -Park mounted his horse, and taking a large bag of corn -before him, set forth with the flying multitude.</p> - -<p>In this fashion he travelled onward for two days, -accompanied so far by Johnson and the slatee. At -Koiro a halt of two days had to be made to recruit his -half-starved animal—an unfortunate delay, since it gave -time for Ali’s chief slave and four Moors to arrive in -quest of their white prisoner. This new calamity had -to be met with prompt action if Park was not to face -an indefinite period of miserable captivity. At once he -resolved to escape by flight—a “measure which I thought -offered the only chance of saving my life and gaining the -object of my mission.”</p> - -<p>Johnson was ready to applaud his master’s resolution, -but flatly refused to join him.</p> - -<p>The Moors, thinking the white man safe, did not trouble -themselves about him, and he was thus able to prepare -a few articles to take with him. Two suits of clothes -and a pair of boots were all he possessed. He had not -now a single bead or other article of commercial value -to purchase food for himself.</p> - -<p>About daybreak the Moors were all asleep. Now was -the time to make good his opportunity. Liberty and -possible success were in the balance with renewed captivity -and possible death. A cold sweat moistened his -forehead as the importance of the step he was about -to take was brought with twofold force to his consciousness. -But to deliberate was to lose the only chance of -escape. He must make one more bold attempt to regain -liberty and reach the Niger. The thought was inspiration. -He picked up his bundle, stepped stealthily over -the sleeping negroes, and reached his horse. Johnson<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> -was bidden farewell, and once more begged to take particular -care of the papers entrusted to him, and to inform -his friends on the Gambia “that he had left me in good -health, on my way to Bambarra.”</p> - -<p>A few years before, Major Houghton had sent an -almost identical message to the same Gambian friends.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>TO THE NIGER.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Once outside the village, it behoved Park to be on the -alert, and get as quickly from the vicinity of the Moors -as possible. With his horse reduced to skin and bone -speed was out of the question, while the darkness and -the nature of the country otherwise made progress slow. -And yet how much was staked on every dragging mile—every -moment might mean freedom or bondage, life -or death to him. Half frantic at the thought of recapture, -he imagined an enemy behind each bush, in every -sound the tramp of pursuing horsemen.</p> - -<p>It looked as if his worst apprehensions were about to -be realised when unawares he stumbled upon a Moorish -watering-place. Before he could retreat he was discovered -by the shepherds. Immediately there was a -howl of execration, and he was set upon with stones -and curses, and driven forth as if he had been a -prowling beast of prey.</p> - -<p>Thankful to have escaped unhurt, Park, once rid of -the fanatics, began to be more hopeful. He was not to -get away so easily, however. Suddenly a shout rang -behind bidding him halt. He hardly needed to look -to know the nature of the danger that threatened. -Three Moors on horseback were in full pursuit, ferociously -brandishing their weapons, and screaming out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> -threats as they bore down on him. Escape was impossible—his -jaded steed was beyond all urging. With the -dogged indifference of despair he turned and rode back -prepared for the worst. Unmoved he looked at the upraised -muskets of his pursuers—almost unheeding, so -benumbed were his faculties, he heard that they were -sent to bring him back to Ali. In reality, however, -the Moors were robbers, and their object merely -plunder.</p> - -<p>On reaching a wood the wretches ordered their prisoner -to untie his bundle. Great was their disgust -to find nothing worth taking but a cloak. But to -Park his cloak was the sole protection from the rains -by day and the mosquitoes by night, and in vain he -followed the robbers, trying to move their compassion, -and earnestly begging them to return the garment. -For sole reply, one of the band, annoyed at his persistence, -presented a musket at him, while another struck -his horse a brutal blow over the head. There was no -resisting these hints, and once more possessed by the -keen desire for life and liberty, Park parleyed no longer, -but turned and rode off.</p> - -<p>The moment he was out of sight he struck into -the woods to avoid similar encounters. As he passed -on, the sense of security growing ever stronger with -the passing night, his sanguine temperament gradually -resumed its sway. He felt as one recovered from a -dangerous illness—he breathed freer, his limbs were -as if released from cramping fetters, while the Niger -magnet drew him on irresistibly as ever. Life became -more desirable, earth and heaven more beautiful, -and even the desert lost half its terrors. Beggary and -the miseries of the rainy season grew less terrible to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> -face with the growth of the hope that the guerdon of -success was yet to be won.</p> - -<p>But man cannot live on hope alone. However fair -it might paint the vision of the future, it could not -stifle the present demands of nature. Only too painfully -Park awoke to the fact that starvation stared -him in the face. He was destitute, and could not buy; -unarmed, and therefore could not take; hunted, and -therefore dared not beg. His every step was beset with -innumerable dangers. His one chance lay in reaching a -Bambarra village, where he would be among the negroes, -and safe at least from the Moors.</p> - -<p>To the pangs of hunger was speedily added the -yet more painful agony of thirst. The sun overhead -beat down upon him from heavens of lurid brilliancy. -The scorching white sands, blinding to look upon, reflected -back the heat as from the mouth of a furnace.</p> - -<p>From the tree tops not a trace of human habitation -was to be seen. Alone patches of thick scrub and -hillocks of barren sand met the eye. In pushing on -lay the only hope of escaping death. With his old -undaunted spirit Park elected to push on—to struggle -while his legs would carry him.</p> - -<p>Towards four in the afternoon he came suddenly upon -the dreaded yet welcome sight of a herd of goats. They -were at once an indication of a great danger, and of -possible food and water. His joy was great when after -a cautious examination he discovered that the herd was -tended only by two boys. With difficulty he approached -them.</p> - -<p>“Water! water!” he gasped. For answer the goatherds -showed their empty water-skins, telling him at -the same time that no water was to be found in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> -woods. Sick at heart and well-nigh exhausted, Park -turned away to resume his weary tramp and almost -hopeless quest.</p> - -<p>Night was approaching, and already his limbs were -failing him. His thirst had become intolerable, and his -mouth was parched and inflamed. Sudden attacks of -dimness at times came over his eyes, and more than -once he almost fainted. Each moment it became increasingly -clear that if he did not reach water before -the dawn of another day he must inevitably perish. To -relieve the pains in his throat and mouth he chewed -the leaves of different shrubs, but only added to his -agony.</p> - -<p>In the evening he reached a ridge, and climbing a -tree, gazed eagerly over the land—only a barren wilderness -deserted by God and man spread out before him. -“The same dismal uniformity of shrub and sand everywhere -presented itself, and the horizon was as level and -uninterrupted as that of the sea.”</p> - -<p>The sun sank, and with it went the fugitive’s last -hope. He was too weak to walk, and his horse, as -much exhausted as himself, could not carry him. Even -in his own extremity he had yet a kind thought for his -faithful dumb companion, and that it might the better -shift for itself he took off its bridle. Even as he did so -a horrid sensation of sickness and giddiness seized him, -and he fell on the sand, believing that his last hour had -come.</p> - -<p>In one swift flash of thought he saw the end of his -weary struggle, and with it all his hopes of doing something -worthy of remembrance. Then the shadow of -death gathered over him, and he sank back unconscious.</p> - -<p>But all was not yet over—for Park life had still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> -somewhat in store of work and gladness. With the -lowering of the temperature and the rising of the cool -night breeze he awoke from his death-like swoon, and, -gathering himself together, he resolved to make one -more attempt to keep death at bay. With his old -strength of will, though weak in limb, he staggered -forward into the darkness of night, which seemed only -too like the prospect before him. A few minutes more -and a flash of lightning illumined the surrounding -landscape. To him that flash was a promise of rain, -and gave birth to a new hope that his agonies from -thirst would soon be at an end. Soon flash followed -flash, more and more dazzling, nearer and nearer. -With a painful eagerness the exhausted wanderer -watched the coming storm. He had no further occasion -to struggle forward. He had but to sit still and wait. -But what hopes and fears the while! Would it rain or -not? Would the storm break on him, or career past on -either side? Another hour and the answer came. On -his ear fell the welcome sound of trees bending before -the blast. His fevered face felt the first cool puffs of -wind. A black column, dimly discerned in the darkness, -and laden with moisture, as he thought, reared -itself before him. It blotted out earth and sky, and -tore onward borne on the wings of the wind. He -rose to meet and welcome it. His parched mouth was -opened to taste the heaven-sent rain. When, oh, misery! -he found himself enveloped in a suffocating sandstorm. -Stricken with unutterable disappointment, he sank to the -ground behind a sheltering bush.</p> - -<p>For above an hour the storm swept over him in -choking whirlwinds. When it ceased, Park with undaunted -spirit resumed his way in the darkness, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> -with ever intensifying thirst, ever lessening strength—perilously -near his last struggle.</p> - -<p>Again the lightning flashed across the sky. He -hardly dared to hope, yet, nevertheless, he turned -his burning face and stretched his shaking hands towards -the advancing storm-clouds, that he might feel -the first refreshing drops. This time there was no -mistake, and tearing off his clothes, he spread them -out to collect the heaven-sent rain, while all naked to -the storm, amid the blinding glare of tropic lightning -and the frightful crash of thunder, he sucked in the -moisture by every pore of his body.</p> - -<p>But he was only relieved of one series of pangs to be -reminded that others lay behind—the miseries of starvation -had still to be faced. There could be no rest, no -sleep for him, till food as well as water was obtained. -Accordingly he resumed his way, directing his footsteps -by the compass, which the frequent flashes of lightning -enabled him to consult. Soon these welcome gleams -ceased, and then he had to stumble along as best he -might. About two in the morning a light appeared. -Thinking it might proceed from a negro town, he groped -about in the darkness unsuccessfully trying to ascertain -whether it was so or not, from corn-stacks or other signs -of cultivation. Other lights now became visible, and he -began to fear he had fallen upon a Moorish encampment.</p> - -<p>Soon his worst doubts became certainties, and rather -than fall into the hands of his late persecutors he -elected to face death in the wilderness. As stealthily as -possible, however, he tried to discover the water. In -doing so a woman got a glimpse of him, and her scream -brought up two men, who passed quite close to where he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> -had crouched to hide himself. Clearly this was no place -for him, and once more he plunged into the sheltering -woods. He had not proceeded far when the loud croaking -of frogs told him where to slake his thirst.</p> - -<p>This narrow escape inspired Park to renewed exertions. -At daylight he detected a pillar of smoke at a -distance of twelve miles, and towards it he painfully -plodded. After five hours of extreme toil the village -from which the smoke arose was reached, and from a -husbandman he heard that it was a Fulah village -belonging to Ali. This was unpleasant news.</p> - -<p>To enter might possibly mean return to captivity, yet -possibly, too, he might be allowed to go unmolested. -Meanwhile the immediate certainty was that he was -dying of hunger, and that his position could hardly be -made worse. Determined, therefore, to take his chance -of the result, he rode into the village. On his applying -at the head man’s house, the door was slammed in his -face, and his appeals for food were unheeded. Dejectedly -he turned his horse’s head, seeing nothing before him but -death in the woods. As he was leaving the village he -remarked some mean dwellings. Might he not make -another trial. Hospitality he remembered did not -always prefer the dwellings of the rich.</p> - -<p>Prompted by the thought he advanced towards an -old woman spinning cotton in front of her hut. By -signs he indicated that he wanted food, leaving his -haggard face and sunken eyes to tell the rest. Nor did -he appeal in vain. The hut was opened to him, and such -food as its owner could give was placed in his hands. -The first pangs of hunger allayed, Park’s next thought -was for the four-footed sharer of his toils and agonies, -and for it too a speedy supply of corn was forthcoming.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> - -<p>Meanwhile a dubious crowd gathered outside, and -solemnly debated what they should do with the stranger -who had thus appeared among them. Opinion was -divided, however; and Park, seeing the danger of his -position, thought it better to leave, however footsore -and weary he might be. On seeing their unbidden -guest prepare to depart, the villagers came to the conclusion -that their wisest course was to do nothing.</p> - -<p>Once clear of the town, and the boys and girls who -followed him for some time, Park, who had not slept for -more than two days and nights, sought the shade of a -sheltering tree, and laid himself down to rest. Early -in the afternoon he was awakened by two Fulahs, but -without entering into conversation with them he continued -his journey towards Bambarra and the Niger. -It was not till midnight that finding a pool of rain -water he again halted. Sleep, however, of which he -stood terribly in need, was out of the question. The -mosquitoes assailed him in maddening myriads, while -the howling of wild beasts added to the terrors of his -surroundings.</p> - -<p>After a miserable night, the day was hailed with relief -and delight. At midday another Fulah watering-place -was reached, and here Park was hospitably received by -a shepherd, who gave him boiled corn and dates for -himself, and corn for his horse. Resuming his journey -with fast returning hope and vigour, the resolute traveller -pushed on, determined to journey all night.</p> - -<p>At eight in the evening he heard wayfarers approaching, -and had to hide himself in a thicket, and there hold -his horse’s nose to prevent him neighing. At midnight -the joyful sound of frogs apprised him of the neighbourhood -of water. Having quenched his thirst, he sought<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> -out an open space in the wood and lay down to sleep, -happily unmolested till near morning, when some wild -beasts compelled him to look after the safety of himself -and his animal. Resuming his tramp, Park crossed the -frontiers of Bambarra, and felt for the first time for -many weary weeks in comparative safety and free from -the horrid Moorish nightmare which had so long haunted -him. At Wawra he was hospitably received by the -chief of the village, and at last worn out with excessive -fatigue and starvation, but rejoicing in the sweet new -sense of security, was able to lay himself down and -enjoy the luxury of a deep sound sleep.</p> - -<p>To Park everything now seemed hopeful and encouraging. -He was destitute and alone—a beggar in -the heart of Africa; but now that he had safely escaped -from the deserts of the north, and from the clutches of -their fanatical and degraded Moorish inhabitants, his -sanguine temperament made small account of his personal -troubles. It was sufficient to know himself in a -land of plenty, with villages at every mile, and among -a people of kindly nature.</p> - -<p>His hopes were not belied. Everywhere his reception -was hospitable. The villagers gave of their food -and shelter; the wayfarers their company, assistance, -guidance, and protection. At most places he was not -recognised as being a white man, but from his strange -and destitute appearance was assumed to be a pilgrim -from Mecca, and treated by the Faithful with the consideration -such an one deserved. And thus the days -passed on, ever bringing him nearer the goal of his -hopes, ever adding to his assurance that the great -prize for which men and nations had struggled for -three centuries was to be his.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the night of the 20th July, Park took up his -quarters at a small village. Here he was told that he -would see the Niger—or, as the natives called it, the -Joliba or Great Waters—on the morrow.</p> - -<p>The thought was intoxication, and between it and the -myriad mosquitoes that preyed upon his unprotected -body, sleep was out of the question. Before daylight he -was up and doing, and had saddled his horse long ere -the gates of the village were opened.</p> - -<p>At length he got away. With eager eyes he looked -towards the south—towards what for many terrible -months had been his Kiblah—his Mecca. At last he -was about to be rewarded for all the tortures of body -and mind he had so heroically endured, so resolutely -faced.</p> - -<p>The road was crowded with natives hurrying towards -the capital. Four large villages were passed, and then -in the distance loomed up the smoke of Sego—Sego -on the banks of the Niger! A little further and the -joyful cry, “See the water!” announced to Park that -the Niger was in sight. Ay, truly, there it was, sweeping -along in a majestic stream towards the east, and -glittering in the bright rays of the morning sun.</p> - -<p>One long and ardent look, one sigh of supreme relief, -and the pilgrim of geography hastened to the brink, -and after drinking of the water, lifted up a fervent -prayer to the Great Ruler of all things for having thus -crowned his endeavours with success.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>DOWN THE NIGER TO SILLA.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Thus was the River Niger for the first time reached by -an European, and its eastward course determined. Park -had left England inclined if anything to believe that it -flowed west; but during his journey that opinion had -gradually been undermined, and now with his own eyes -he saw that its course was indeed towards the rising sun. -There was no further question as to where it took its -rise: its termination was now the great mystery which -remained to be cleared up.</p> - -<p>Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which the white -traveller had arrived, consisted of four distinct towns, -two on the north bank of the Niger, and two on the -south. Each was independently surrounded by high -mud walls. Unlike the ordinary negro village, the -houses were square with flat roofs, and built of mud. -Some of them were two stories in height, and a few -were whitewashed.</p> - -<p>Besides these evidences of Arab influence, there were -mosques in every quarter; and the whole town, with -its thirty or forty thousand inhabitants, presented an -air of civilisation and magnificence which Park was far -from expecting. The river swarmed with large canoes, -constantly crossing and recrossing; the streets were -crowded with a busy population; and the whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> -surrounding country was in the highest state of cultivation.</p> - -<p>Park speedily discovered that Mansong, king of Bambarra, -lived on the south side of the river, and he -prepared at once to cross and present himself at court. -The crowded state of the ferry prevented him carrying -out his intention immediately, as he had to wait his -turn. In the interval the people gathered round him in -silent wonder, full of speculation as to what could have -brought the white man so far from the sea. With no -small apprehension the weary traveller noticed among -the crowd a numerous sprinkling of Moors. In each of -the race he saw a malignant enemy who would stop at -nothing to do him an ill turn, so indelible was the impression -produced on him during his residence with Ali -at Benaun.</p> - -<p>An opportunity for crossing at last offered itself. -Just as he was about to take advantage of it, a messenger -arrived from the king to intimate that he could not -possibly see his intending visitor until he knew what had -brought him into the country. Meanwhile he was on -no account to presume to cross the river without Mansong’s -permission, and must lodge for the night at a -distant village which the messenger pointed out.</p> - -<p>This reception was eminently discouraging. But -Park was inured to disappointments, and happy in so -far as he had at least seen and drunk of the waters of the -Niger, he could bear with more equanimity such further -reverses as might be in store for him. It required all -his philosophy to sustain him, however, when on reaching -the village he was refused admittance at every door. -Every one looked upon him with astonishment and fear -as a being of unknown species, whose power of physical<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> -or spiritual mischief was incalculable, and had better -not be tried by closer contact than could be helped.</p> - -<p>Thus shunned and boycotted as a human pariah, and -not knowing where to go to seek shelter, Park sat down -under a tree, which at least protected him from the overpowering -glare of the sun. Hour after hour passed, -and still no one offered him food or lodging. The day -drew to a close. The wind rose, and clouds gathered -threateningly in the sky. Everything portended a night -of storm.</p> - -<p>The sun fell, and still he sat unheeded. Darkness -began to gather round him with tropical swiftness, and -he lost all hope of moving the compassion of the natives -by his forlorn and helpless condition. To escape death -from lions and hyenas, he prepared to ensconce himself -among the branches of the tree. Before doing so he -proceeded to take off the bridle and saddle from his -horse, that it might have greater freedom and ease in -grazing. While thus engaged a woman returning from -her work in the fields passed him. It required no words -to tell her the stranger’s plight. His dress and face -spoke eloquently of weariness, destitution, hunger, and -dejection. The negress stopped to ask his story. A few -words told all that was necessary to move her woman’s -heart, and without further questioning she picked up -his saddle and bridle and bade him follow her to her -hut. There she lighted a lamp and spread out a mat -for her guest.</p> - -<p>In a short time a fine fish was broiling on the embers -of the fire, while the various members of the family -sat looking at the stranger in gaping wonder. A few -minutes more and Park had satisfied his hunger and -disposed himself to sleep. The women resumed their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> -work of spinning wool, and while they worked they sang. -To sweet and plaintive melody they wedded kindliest -words, and their guest was the burden of their song:—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">“The winds roared and the rains fell,</div> -<div class="i0">The poor white man sat under our tree;</div> -<div class="i0">He has no mother to bring him milk,</div> -<div class="i0">No wife to grind his corn.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>And oft recurring came the chorus—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">“Let us pity the white man,</div> -<div class="i0">No mother has he.”<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Such, literally translated, were the words of the improvised -song, and listening to them, sleep was driven<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> -from Park’s eyes, as he turned and tossed a prey to the -liveliest emotions of gratitude. Far into the night the -women worked, and spinning ever sang—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">“Let us pity the white man;</div> -<div class="i0">No mother has he;”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>while outside the tornado spent its violence in blinding -flashes and deafening peals of thunder, in raging blasts -of wind and drenching showers of rain.</p> - -<p>In the morning, as a token of gratitude, Park presented -his kindly hostess with two of the four brass -buttons remaining on his waistcoat, the sole articles he -possessed having any value in native eyes.</p> - -<p>During the day numerous rumours of the inimical -machinations of the Moors came to Park’s ears, but -nothing definite concerning Mansong’s decision as to -his fate.</p> - -<p>On the following morning, the 22nd, a messenger -arrived to inquire what present the white man had -brought to the king.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd another messenger arrived, bearing the -king’s refusal to give Park an audience. It was accompanied -by a present of five thousand cowries—the currency -of the Sudan Basin—to enable him to purchase -provisions, while indicating that his presence at Sego -was undesirable, though he was at liberty to proceed -farther down the Niger, or to return to the Gambia, as -he pleased.</p> - -<p>In Mansong’s refusal to see him, Park could only see -the “blind and inveterate malice of the Moorish inhabitants,” -though he could not but admit that the manner -of his appearance among the people of Sego, and the to -them incredible explanation of the object of his journey,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> -warranted suspicion. To see the Joliba! Absurd! -Were there then no rivers in the white man’s own -country that he should face such hardships and dangers -to see ours? There must be something else behind. -Send him away, but being destitute, let us supply his -wants, so that the stigma of his death lie not at our -doors. Such, it may be presumed, was Mansong’s mode -of reasoning, and such naturally the conclusion he -arrived at.</p> - -<p>Park was now called upon to make up his mind as -to his future course. Would he go on or turn back? -Surely he might return with all honour now that he -had reached the Niger itself. Destitute as he was, what -could he do? And yet it was hard to have to retrace -his steps with such a glorious work before him. No, onward -at least some distance he must go, to see and learn -something more of the river’s course and termination, -perchance even to reach Timbuktu.</p> - -<p>Park did not reach this conclusion without some misgiving, -for he heard vague reports that the farther east -he proceeded the more numerous became the Arab tribes, -and that Timbuktu itself was in the hands of “that -savage and merciless people.” Whatever his horror of -the Moors might be, however, he could not let his plans -be stopped by “such vague and uncertain information, -and determined to proceed.”</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_127" src="images/i_127.png" width="399" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BAMBARRA WOMEN POUNDING CORN.</p></div> - -<p>Thus dauntlessly did our hero gather his rags about -him, and with his bag of cowries proceed on the 24th on -the exploration of the Niger River. On the first day he -passed through a highly cultivated country, resembling -the park scenery of England. The people were everywhere -collecting the fruit of the Shea tree, from which -the vegetable butter so named is produced. Park found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> -the Shea butter whiter and firmer, and to his palate of -a richer flavour, than the best butter he ever tasted made -from cow’s milk—a strange statement certainly, since -to the palates of degenerate travellers and traders of -the present day its taste is abominable. Even among -the natives it is only used by the very poorest for -cooking purposes, being considered infinitely inferior to -palm oil.</p> - -<p>In the evening Park reached Sansanding, a town of -some two thousand inhabitants, largely resorted to by -Moors from Biru engaged in exchanging salt and the -commodities of the north for cotton cloth and gold dust. -To slip as quietly into the town as possible, Park passed -along the riverside, and by the natives was everywhere -taken to be a Moor. At length a real Moor discovered -the mistake, and by his exclamations brought a crowd -of his countrymen about the stranger.</p> - -<p>Amid the shouting and gesticulating mob Park contrived -to reach the house of Counti Mamadi, the Duté of -the place. The Moors, with their customary arrogance -and assumption of superiority, pushed aside the negroes, -and began to ask questions concerning Park’s religion. -Finding that he understood Arabic, they brought two -men whom they called Jews, and who in dress and -appearance resembled the Arabs, and were said to conform -so far to Islam as to recite in public prayers -from the Koran. The Moors insisted that the stranger -should do the same as the Jews. He tried to put off -the subject by declaring that he could not speak Arabic, -when a sherif from Tawat started up and swore by the -Prophet that if the Christian refused to go to the -mosque, and there acknowledge the One God and His -Prophet, he would have him carried thither.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p> - -<p>Willing hands were ready to carry out this determination, -but happily the Duté interfered, and declared the -white stranger should not be ill treated while under his -protection. This stopped immediate violence, but did -not end the persecution. The crowd continued to swell, -and grew ever more ungovernable. The clamour and -excitement intensified every minute. Every coign of -vantage was covered with multitudes eager to see the -newcomer. That every one might be gratified he was -compelled to ascend a high seat near the door of the -mosque, where he had to remain till sunset, when he was -permitted to descend and seek refuge in a neat little -hut having a court in front of it. Even here, however, -he found neither peace nor quiet. The Moors, though -in the country only as traders, seemed to be allowed to -do very much as they liked. They climbed over the court -walls and invaded Park’s privacy, desirous, as they said, -of seeing him at his evening devotions, and also eating -eggs. The latter operation Park was by no means loth -to accomplish, though the intruders were disappointed -on discovering that he only ate them cooked.</p> - -<p>It was not until after midnight that the Arabs left -the traveller alone. His host then asked him for a -charm in writing, which was at once supplied in the -form of the Lord’s Prayer.</p> - -<p>From Sansanding, Park proceeded to Sibila, and -thence to Nyara, where he stayed on the 27th to wash -his clothes and rest his horse.</p> - -<p>At Nyami, a town inhabited chiefly by Fulahs, the -head man refused to see Park, and sent his son to guide -him to Madibu.</p> - -<p>Between the two villages the travellers had to proceed -with very great caution, as the district was noto<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>rious -for its dangers from wild beasts. A giraffe was -seen, and shortly afterwards, in crossing a broad open -plain with scattered bushes, the guide who was ahead -suddenly espied traces of a lion in the path, and called -loudly to Park to ride off. His horse, however, was too -exhausted for flight, and he continued to ride slowly on. -He was just beginning to think that it had been a false -alarm, when a cry from the guide made him look up in -renewed trepidation. There was the lion lying near a -bush, with his head couched between his fore-paws. To -fly was impossible. Instinctively Park drew his feet -from his stirrups, to be ready to slip off and leave the -horse to bear the first onslaught if the lion should spring. -With eyes riveted on the enemy he slowly advanced, -expecting each moment that the lion would be upon him. -The brute did not move, however, having probably just -dined, and being in a peaceful mood in consequence. -All the same Park was so held by a sort of wild fascination -that he found it impossible to remove his gaze -until he was a considerable distance out of danger.</p> - -<p>To avoid any more such perils, Park took a circuitous -route through some swampy ground, and at sunset -safely entered Madibu. This village was perched on the -banks of the Niger, of whose majestic stream it commanded -a splendid view for many miles—a view further -varied by several small green islands occupied by Fulah -herds.</p> - -<p>Here life was rendered almost unendurable by mosquitoes, -which rose in such myriads from the swamps -and creeks as to harass even the most thick-skinned and -torpid of the natives. The nights were one continuous -maddening torture, Park’s rags affording him no protection -from their attacks. Unable to sleep, he had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> -to keep ceaselessly walking backwards and forwards, -fanning himself with his hat to drive off his pertinacious -tormentors. Nevertheless, by morning, his legs, arms, -neck, and face were covered with blisters. No wonder, -under such circumstances, that he grew feverish and -uneasy, and threatened to become seriously ill. Perceiving -this, the Duté of Madibu hurried him off, lest -he should die on his hands.</p> - -<p>Park’s horse was as little able to carry him as he to -walk. They had not struggled on many miles before -the poor animal slipped and fell, and do what Park -might, was not to be got up again. In vain he waited in -the hope that after a rest the horse might come round. -In the end there was nothing for it but to take off -saddle and bridle, place a quantity of grass before him, -and then leave him to his fate. At the sight of the poor -brute lying panting on the ground his owner could not -suppress a foreboding that he likewise before long would -lie down and perish of hunger and fatigue. Oppressed -with melancholy, many fears, and only too numerous -physical ills, he staggered on till noon, when he reached -the small fishing village of Kea.</p> - -<p>The head man was sitting at the gate as he entered, -and to him he told his story of destitution and sickness. -But he spoke to one of surly countenance and crabbed -heart, and his sole reply to the half dead stranger was -to bid him begone from his door.</p> - -<p>The guide remonstrated, and Park entreated, but all -to no purpose. The Duté was inflexible.</p> - -<p>At this juncture a fishing canoe arrived on its way -to Silla, whereupon, to put an end to further parley, the -Duté desired the owner to convey the stranger to that -place. This, after some hesitation, the fisherman con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>sented -to do. Before setting forth Park asked his guide -to see to his horse on the way back, and take care of -him if he was still alive.</p> - -<p>In the evening he reached Silla. Hoping that some -one would take compassion on him, he seated himself -beneath a tree, but though surrounded by wondering -hundreds, no one offered him hospitality. Rain beginning -to come on, the Duté was at length prevailed upon -by Park’s entreaties to let him sleep in one of his huts. -The hut was damp, and a sharp attack of fever was the -result. Let the traveller describe his situation at this -juncture in his own words.</p> - -<p>“Worn down by sickness, exhausted with hunger and -fatigue, half naked, and without any article of value -by which I might get provisions, clothes, or lodging, I -began to reflect seriously on my situation.</p> - -<p>“I was now convinced by painful experience that the -obstacles to my further progress were insurmountable. -The tropical rains were already set in with all their -violence, the rice grounds and swamps were everywhere -overflowed, and in a few days more travelling of every -kind, unless by water, would be completely obstructed. -The cowries which remained of the King of Bambarra’s -present were not sufficient to enable me to hire a canoe -for any great distance, and I had but little hopes of -subsisting by charity in a country where the Moors -have such influence.</p> - -<p>“But above all, I perceived that I was advancing more -and more within the power of those merciless fanatics, -and from my reception both at Sego and Sansanding -I was apprehensive that in attempting to reach even -Jenné (unless under the protection of some man of -consequence amongst them, which I had no means of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> -obtaining), I should sacrifice my life to no purpose, for -my discoveries would perish with me.</p> - -<p>“With this conviction on my mind, I hope my readers -will acknowledge that I did right in going no farther. -I had made every effort to execute my mission in its -fullest extent which prudence could justify. Had there -been the most distant prospect of a successful termination, -neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey, -nor the danger of a second captivity, should have forced -me to desist. This, however, necessity compelled me to -do; and whatever may be the opinion of my general -readers on this point, it affords me inexpressible satisfaction -that my honourable employers have been pleased -since my return to express their full approbation of my -conduct.”</p> - -<p>And who will not cordially coincide in their verdict? -Never had a mission been more determinedly carried -out, nor such inexhaustible patience and endurance -shown in the face of every conceivable hardship, indignity, -and danger—all of which were counted by -the sufferer as naught compared with the inexpressible -pleasure of achieving something of the task he had been -despatched to accomplish.</p> - -<p>When he thus made up his mind to return to the -coast, Park had followed the Niger a distance of over -eighty miles from Sego, finding that it still maintained -its easterly course. In addition, he gathered from various -traders the fact that it continued in the same direction -for four days’ journey more, when it expanded into a -lake of considerable size, named Dibbie, or “The Dark -Lake.”</p> - -<p>From Dibbie (Debo) the Niger was said to divide -into two branches, enclosing a large tract of land called<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> -Jinbala, and uniting again after a north-easterly course -near Kabra, the “port” of Timbuktu. From Jenné to -the latter place the distance by land was twelve days’ -journey.</p> - -<p>From Kabra, Park does not seem certain—at least he -does not make it clear—what course the Niger took, -though he correctly enough states that at the distance -of eleven days’ journey it passes to the south of Haussa -(probably what is now known as Birni-n-Kebbi, a large -town in Gandu, one of the Haussa States). Beyond -this nothing further was known. It seems evident, -however, that Park confounded the course of the Niger -with that of its great eastern tributary the Benué, as -had most of the geographers before him; and so was led -astray from seeking for its natural termination in the -Atlantic.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE RETURN THROUGH BAMBARRA.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Park’s resolution to return to the coast was taken on -the 29th July 1796. His hope of accomplishing this -purpose in safety seemed almost as desperate as the task -of going forward. Before him lay a journey on foot of -eleven hundred miles in a straight line, to which must -be added an additional five hundred for deviations and -the windings of the road. He had thus before him -nineteen hundred miles on foot through a barbarous -country, where the stranger was considered fair prey, -and the laws afforded him no protection from violence. -He was without the wherewithal to buy food, and had -only rags to shield him from the violence of the weather -and the maddening onslaughts of mosquitoes. In addition -he had to face all the horrors of the tropic winter, -tornadoes of wind, rain, and thunder overhead, swamps -and mire under foot, and flooded streams barring the -way at every turn. The hardships were sufficient to -have killed any man of less indomitable spirit and -weaker frame. Even Park would probably have succumbed, -but that he could not die while his discoveries -remained uncommunicated to his employers and the -public. Till then his work was only half done. With -his death it would be wholly undone—all his toil and -suffering in vain. To reach the coast was therefore now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> -a point of as much importance as formerly it had been -to see the Niger.</p> - -<p>His mind once made up, Park acted with promptitude -and resolution.</p> - -<p>He arrived at Silla on the 29th July. The night -sufficed to determine his course, and morning saw the -commencement of his return journey. It behoved him -indeed to waste no time. A few days more and the -country would be impassable by land on account of the -flooded rivers. Already it was so on the southern side -of the Niger—a fact Park much regretted, as he had -hoped to return by that way.</p> - -<p>Crossing to Murzan by one canoe, he was there -enabled to hire another to Kea. Here he was permitted -to sleep in the hut of one of the head man’s slaves, who, -seeing him sick and destitute of clothes, compassionately -covered him with a large cloth.</p> - -<p>Next day, in proceeding to Madibu with the head -man’s brother, he had an opportunity of seeing a peculiar -instance of the native respect for private property -under some circumstances. A large pile of earthenware -jars were lying on the bank of the river. They had been -found there two years before, and as no one had ever -claimed them, they were believed to belong to some -supernatural power. People passing invariably threw a -handful of grass upon them, which Park thinks was to -protect them from the rain, but more likely was meant -as a propitiatory gift to the spirit—the practice being -common over all Central Africa.</p> - -<p>Some time after passing the jars the fresh footprints of -a lion were discovered. The travellers had accordingly to -proceed with very great caution. Nearing a thick wood -where the dangerous brute was supposed to have its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> -lair, the guide insisted that Park should lead the way. -Unarmed as he was, the latter naturally objected, and -urged further that he did not know the road. High -words followed, which ended in the desertion of the -negro.</p> - -<p>There was nothing for it now but to proceed alone, -lion or no lion. With no small trepidation Park passed -between the wood and the river, expecting every moment -to be attacked. Happily he was left to pursue his way -unmolested, and reached Madibu late in the afternoon. -Here he was joined by the deserter. While in the act -of remonstrating with him for his recent conduct, a horse -commenced to neigh in a neighbouring hut. With a -smile the head man asked Park if he knew who was -speaking to him, and showed him the horse, which -turned out to be no other than the traveller’s own, very -much improved by its rest.</p> - -<p>Next day Park re-entered Nyami, and there was -practically imprisoned by three days’ continuous rain, -the after results of which he had the most serious -reasons to fear. Nor were his apprehensions belied. -When he left Nyami the country was deluged, the fields -knee deep in water for miles together, and the pathways -undiscoverable. Where not actually submerged the land -was one great quagmire, in which Park’s horse stuck -more than once, and had almost to be abandoned.</p> - -<p>Next day the rain fell in torrents, detaining him -again, and making travelling almost impossible. With -difficulty he plunged and floundered a few miles through -a swamp breast deep in water, and managed at length to -reach a small Fulah village.</p> - -<p>With tracks obliterated and the country thus flooded, -it now became imperative that he should not travel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> -alone. No guide, however, was to be found to show -him the way and assist him at difficult places.</p> - -<p>For some distance he accompanied a Moor and his -wife who were proceeding to Sego with salt. They rode -on bullocks, and proved to be as helpless as himself. -At one place one of the bullocks suddenly fell into a -hole in a morass, and sent both salt and wife into the -water.</p> - -<p>At sunset he reached Sibity, where an inhospitable -reception awaited him. A damp old hut was all he -could get in which to pass the night. Each moment he -expected to see the rotten clay roof fall in—a common -occurrence at the commencement of the rainy season. -On all sides he heard the sound of similar catastrophes, -and in the morning counted the wreck of fourteen -dwellings.</p> - -<p>Throughout the following day it continued to rain -violently, making travelling out of the question.</p> - -<p>On the 11th August, the head man compelled Park -to move on. A new danger, it appeared, had fallen on -his trouble-strewn way. It had got abroad that he was -a spy, and not in favour with the king—a report sufficient -to close each head man’s door against him, and -extinguish every hospitable feeling in the naturally -kindly heart of the negro. He was now an object not -merely to be treated with passive indifference, but -actively shunned as a possible danger to whomsoever -should have dealings with him.</p> - -<p>With no small foreboding he re-entered Sansanding. -Counti Mamadi, who formerly had protected him from -the Moors, would now have nothing to do with him, -and desired him to depart early in the morning. That -the head man in thus acting did violence to his own<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> -natural kindliness was sufficiently shown by his coming -privately to Park during the night and warning him -of the dangerous situation he was in. Especially he -advised him to avoid going near Sego.</p> - -<p>This unpleasantly altered state of matters was further -illustrated when arriving next day at Kabba, he was -met outside the town by a party of negroes, who seized -his horse’s bridle, and in spite of his remonstrances, conducted -him round the walls, and ordered him to continue -his way lest worse should befall him. A few miles further -on he reached a small village, but found no better reception. -On his attempting to enter, the head man seized -a stick and threatened to knock him down if he moved -another step. There was nothing for it but to proceed -to another village, where happily some women were -moved to compassion by his destitute appearance, and -contrived to get him a night’s lodging.</p> - -<p>On the 13th, he reached a small village close to Sego, -where he endeavoured in vain to procure some provisions. -He heard, moreover, that there were orders out -to apprehend him, and it was clear that it would be -highly dangerous for him to remain an hour where he -was. He accordingly pushed on through high grassy -and swampy ground till noon, when he stopped to consider -what route he should now pursue. All seemed -alike bad, but everything considered, he elected to proceed -westward along the Niger, and ascertain if possible -how far it was navigable in that direction.</p> - -<p>For the next three days his journey was unattended -with any worse hardship than having to live upon raw -corn, lodging for the night having been obtained without -much difficulty. It was different, however, on the evening -of the 15th, when, on his arrival at the small village<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> -of Song, he was refused admittance within the gates. -The numerous footprints which he had seen while on the -march had made it abundantly clear that the country -was infested with lions. The prospect of spending the -night in the open without means of defence was therefore -anything but pleasant; but it had to be faced. -Hungry and weary himself, he could still think of his -horse, and he set about gathering grass for him. With -nightfall, no one having offered him food or shelter, -he lay down under a tree close to the gate, but dared -not allow himself to sleep. With leaden shoon the -minutes passed. Every sound was a note of danger, -and in a state of painful alertness the outcast wanderer -peered into the blackness of night, ever expecting to see -a creeping form, or the glitter of two fierce eyes.</p> - -<p>At length, some time before midnight, a hollow roar -suddenly resounded through the wood, apparently coming -from no great distance. In the darkness he could -see nothing, strain as he might. To sit thus defenceless -awaiting his doom, yet not knowing when or whence -it would come, was intolerable, and driven frantic at last -by the horror of his situation, he rushed to the gate, -and madly tugged at it with all the energy of one who -struggles for dear life. In vain, his utmost efforts were -as little able to move it as were his urgent appeals to -touch the hearts of the natives.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile the lion was all unseen prowling round -the village, ever lessening its circle and drawing nearer -its prey. At last a rustle among the grass warned Park -of its whereabouts and dangerous proximity. A moment -more and he would be in its fatal clutches. His sole -chance now lay in reaching a neighbouring tree. With a -rush he gained and climbed it, and then feeling compara<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>tively -safe among the sheltering branches, he prepared -to pass the night there. A little later, however, the -head man opened the gate and invited the stranger to -come within the walls, as he was now satisfied that he -was not a Moor, none of whom ever waited any time -outside a village without cursing it and all it contained.</p> - -<p>From Song the country began to rise into hills, and -the summits of high mountains could be seen ahead. -Even here, however, travelling continued to be a matter -of toil and danger, all the hollows through which the -road ran being transformed into nasty swamps. At -one point Park and his horse fell headlong into an unseen -pit, and were almost drowned before, covered with -mud, they succeeded in emerging. One of the worst -features of such occurrences was the danger he incurred -of losing his notes, or finding them rendered useless—a -misfortune which would have gone far to bring the -results of his toil to naught.</p> - -<p>After the above mishap, Park rode through Yamina, -a half-ruined town covering as much space as Sansanding. -Many Moors were sitting about, and everybody watched -him passing with astonishment.</p> - -<p>Next day the road quitted the Niger plain and skirted -the side of a hill. From this higher elevation the whole -country had the aspect of an extensive lake.</p> - -<p>His next journey brought him to the Frina, a deep -and rapid tributary of the Niger. He was preparing -to swim across when he was stopped by a native, who -warned him that both he and his horse would be devoured -by crocodiles. On his hastily withdrawing from the -water, the man, who had never seen a European before, -and now saw one minus his clothes, put his hand to -his mouth, as is the fashion among most negroes of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> -expressing astonishment, and uttered a smothered, awe-stricken -exclamation. He did not run away, however, -and by his assistance the proper ferry was found, and -Park safely landed on the opposite bank.</p> - -<p>In the evening the traveller arrived at Taffara, where -he met with a most inhospitable reception. This was -partly due to the fact that a new head man was being -elected. No one would take him in, and he was compelled -to sit under the palaver tree supperless, and -exposed to all the rude violence of a tornado. At midnight -the negro who had shown Park the way—himself -a stranger to the village—shared his supper with him.</p> - -<p>On the following march Park was glad to appease -his hunger with the husks of corn. At a village further -on he found the head man of the place in a bad temper -over the death of a slave boy, whose burial he was superintending. -The process was sufficiently summary. A -hole having been dug in the field, the corpse of the boy -was dragged out by a leg and an arm and thrown with -savage indifference into the grave. As there seemed to -be no chance of procuring food, Park rode on to a place -called Kulikorro, where his reception was more kindly. -Here he found he could relieve his wants by writing -saphias or charms for the simple natives. The charm -being written on a board, the ink was then washed off -and swallowed, so as to secure the full virtue of the -writing. The practice is taken from the more ignorant -of the Arabs, who think that by drinking the ink used -in writing the name of Allah or prayers from the Koran -they will derive a spiritual or material good.</p> - -<p>Thanks to the demand for charms of this nature, Park -was enabled to enjoy the first good meal and night’s -rest he had known for many days.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the second day from Kulikorro he was directed on -the wrong road, whereby he was brought late in the afternoon -to a deep creek, which there was nothing for it but -to swim, spite of the danger of being seized by crocodiles. -This he did, holding the bridle of his horse in his teeth, -and carrying his precious notes in the crown of his hat. -An obstacle of this kind, however, was but a small -matter to Park, who between rain and dew was now -rarely dry, while the mud with which he was only too -frequently bespattered made a swim both pleasant and -necessary.</p> - -<p>On this day’s march the Niger was remarked to be -flowing between rocky banks with great rapidity and -noise, so that a European boat would have had some -difficulty in crossing the stream.</p> - -<p>Bammaku was reached in the evening of the 23rd -August, and proved to be a disappointment in the matter -of size, though its inhabitants were remarkably well off -on account of its being a resting-place for the Arab salt -merchants. The Moors here were unusually civil to the -traveller, and sent him some rice and milk.</p> - -<p>The information Park obtained at Bammaku as to his -further route was anything but encouraging. The road -was declared to be impassable. Moreover, the path -crossed the Joliba at a point half a day’s journey west -of Bammaku, where no canoes were to be had large -enough to carry his horse. With no money to support -him, it was useless to think of remaining at Bammaku -for some months. He therefore made up his mind to -go on, and if his horse could not be got across the river, -to abandon it and swim across alone.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_145_large.png"><img id="i_145" src="images/i_145.png" width="600" height="391" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">BAMMAKU.</p></div> - -<p>In the morning, however, he heard from his landlord -of another and more northerly road, by way of a place<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> -called Sibidulu, where he might be enabled to continue -his journey through Manding. An itinerant musician, -going in the same direction, agreed to act as guide.</p> - -<p>At first Park was conducted up a rocky glen, but had -not gone many miles when his companion discovered that -he had taken the wrong road, the right one being on the -other side of the hill. Not seeing it to be his duty to -repair his blunder as far as possible, the guide threw -his drum over his shoulder and continued his way over -the rocks, whither Park could not follow him on horseback, -but had to return to the plain and find his way -himself.</p> - -<p>Happily he succeeded in striking a horse track, which -proved to be the right road; and soon he had reached -the summit of the hill, where an extensive landscape -spread out before him. The plain at his feet was half -submerged under the Niger waters, which at one place -spread out like a lake, at another were gathered into a -curving river, while far to the south-east, in the hazy -sheen of distance, the summits of the Kong Mountains -could be dimly descried.</p> - -<p>Towards sunset the road descended into a delightful -valley, leading to a romantically situated village named -Kuma. Here Park for once met with a pleasant welcome. -Corn and milk in abundance were placed ready -for himself, and abundance of grass for his horse. A -fire even was kindled in the hut set apart for him, while -outside the natives crowded round him in naïve wonderment, -asking him a thousand questions.</p> - -<p>Fain would Park have lingered in this village to rest -and recruit, but an eager longing possessed him to push -on, lest the loss of a day should prove fatal to his further -progress. Two shepherds proceeding in the same direc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>tion -as himself agreed to accompany him. In some -respects the road proved to be more difficult and dangerous -than anything he had previously passed. At -places the ascent was so sharp, and the declivities so -great, that a single false step would have caused his -horse to be dashed to pieces at the bottom of the -precipices.</p> - -<p>Finding that they were able to travel faster than -their white companion, the shepherds after a time -pushed on by themselves. Shortly afterwards, shouts -and screams of distress apprised Park that something -had gone wrong ahead. Riding slowly towards the -place whence the alarm had seemed to proceed, and -seeing no one, he began to call aloud, but without -receiving any answer. By-and-by, however, he discovered -one of the shepherds lying among the long -grass near the road. At first his conclusion was that -the man was dead, but on getting nearer him he found -that he was still alive, and was told in a whisper that -the other had been seized by a party of armed men.</p> - -<p>On looking round, Park was alarmed to discover that -he was himself in imminent danger. A party of six or -seven men armed with muskets were watching him. -Escape being impossible, he considered it his best course -to ride towards them. As he approached he assumed -an air of unconcern, and pretending to take them for -elephant hunters, he asked if they had shot anything. -For answer one of the party ordered him to dismount; -then, as if thinking better of it, signed to him to go on. -Nothing loth, Park rode forward, glad to be relieved -from the fear of further ill-treatment.</p> - -<p>His relief, however, was of short duration. A loud -hullo brought him suddenly to a standstill. Look<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>ing -round, he saw the robbers—for such they were—running -towards him. Park stopped to await their -coming. He was then told that they had been sent by -the King of Fulahdu to bring him and all that belonged -to him to his capital. Park, to avoid ill-treatment, unhesitatingly -agreed to follow them, and in silence the -party travelled across country for some time. A dark -wood was at last reached. “This place will do,” said one -of the party, and almost simultaneously the unfortunate -traveller was set upon, and his hat torn from his head. -To lose his hat was like losing his life, for it contained -all that made life dear to him for the time being. He -betrayed no sign of trouble, however, but simply declared -that he would go no further unless his hat was returned.</p> - -<p>For answer one of the band drew a knife, and cut -the last metal button from Park’s waistcoat. The -others then proceeded to search his pockets, which -he permitted them to do without resistance. Finding -little to satisfy their rapacity, they stripped him -naked. His very boots, though so sadly dilapidated as -to need a part of his bridle-rein to keep the soles on, were -minutely examined. Yet even at this lowest depth of -ignominy his paramount thought was his work. He -could endure the loss of the last shred of clothing, but -to be deprived of his notes and his compass was insupportable. -Seeing the latter lying on the ground, he -begged to have it returned to him. In a passion one of -the robbers picked up his musket and cocked it, declaring -that he would shoot him dead on the spot.</p> - -<p>Humanity, however, was not quite suppressed in the -hearts of these scoundrels, for after a moment’s deliberation -they returned him a shirt and a pair of trousers. -As they were about to depart the one who had taken<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> -his hat jeeringly tossed it back to him. Never with -more eagerness and delight did despairing mother gather -to her bosom a long lost child, than did Park to his the -battered remnant of a hat which contained his precious -store of notes. With them there was still something worth -struggling for, hopeless as his case might seem.</p> - -<p>Never surely was man more tried. At every step he -had met with new calamities, new obstacles, miseries, -and dangers. Man and nature were alike in conspiracy -against him. And now he had to add to his previous -destitution semi-nakedness, and the loss of his horse. -With hundreds of miles still before him, how could he -hope to run the gauntlet of the fresh difficulties and -dangers he would undoubtedly have to face? Yet even -as he conjured up before his mind the perils ahead from -wild beasts and evilly disposed men, from swamp and -flood, from wind and rain, he began to take comfort as -he recalled to mind his numerous past escapes, which -were to him as proofs positive of a protecting Providence -which never yet had failed him in his hour of need.</p> - -<p>As his thoughts took a more hopeful turn, and his -sanguine temperament and rooted faith in a God who -overruled all things reasserted their influence, Park’s -gaze fell upon a tuft of moss. Irresistibly his mind was -diverted from the horrors of his position to the beauty -of the lowly plant before him. As he examined with -admiration its delicate conformation, the thought occurred -to him, “Can that Being who planted, watered, -and brought to perfection in this obscure part of the -world a thing which appears of so small importance, -look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of -creatures formed after His own image? Surely not!”</p> - -<p>The next moment the old spirit came back to him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> -Not yet would he succumb. While there was life in -him he would struggle, and while he could struggle -there was hope. Starting up, he pushed forward once -more, assured in his mind that relief was at hand. Nor -was he disappointed. Near a small village he found the -two shepherds, in whose company he once more proceeded, -till at sunset they entered Sibidulu, his destination -for the time being.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>REST AT KAMALIA.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Park had now entered the country of Manding. Sibidulu, -from its position in a small valley surrounded by -high rocky hills impassable to horsemen, had had the -singular good fortune to escape being plundered during -the numerous wars from time to time waging around -it. To this happy immunity may possibly be ascribed -the reception accorded to Park in his hour of need. As -he entered the town the people gathered round and -accompanied him in a pitying crowd to the head man -of the village in order to hear his story.</p> - -<p>While he related the circumstances of his ill treatment -the native official listened with becoming gravity, and -smoked his pipe the while. The narrative finished, the -latter drew up the sleeve of his cloak with an indignant -air, and laying aside his pipe, told the white man -to sit down. “You shall have everything returned to -you. I have sworn it!”</p> - -<p>Turning to an attendant, he ordered him to bring the -stranger a drink of water, and then proceed over the -hills at dawn of day to inform the chief of Bammaku -that the King of Bambarra’s stranger had been robbed -by the people of the King of Fulahdu.</p> - -<p>The head man did not confine himself to words or -to water. A hut was given to Park, and food to eat,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> -though the crowd which gathered round to commiserate -the white man’s misfortunes could with comfort have -been dispensed with.</p> - -<p>The generosity of his reception was all the more admirable -that at the time the people were suffering from -semi-famine. Under these circumstances, after having -waited two days in vain for the return of his horse and -clothes, Park, afraid of becoming a burden to his kind -host, asked permission to proceed to the next village. -The head man showed no anxiety to hasten his guest’s -departure, but in the end told him to go to Wonda, -and remain there till news was received of his missing -possessions.</p> - -<p>Accordingly on the 30th, he proceeded to the place indicated, -a small town with a mosque, where his reception -by the Mansa or chief was as hospitable as at Sibidulu.</p> - -<p>The attacks of fever which had finally compelled Park -to turn back at Silla now began to return with greater -violence and frequency, and little wonder either that it -should be so. His solitary shirt, worn to the thinness of -muslin, afforded him neither protection from the sun by -day nor from the dews and mosquitoes by night. As, -also, it had become unpleasantly dirty, at Wonda he set -about washing it, and had to sit naked in the shade till -it dried. The result was a violent attack of fever which -prostrated him for nine days.</p> - -<p>All the while he had to do his best to conceal his -illness, lest his host should find him too great a nuisance, -and order him to move on. To this end he tried, like -sick or wounded animals, to hide himself away out of -sight, usually spending the whole day lying in the corn-field, -thus undoubtedly aggravating his malady.</p> - -<p>At this time the scarcity of food was so great that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> -women brought their children to the head man to sell -for forty days’ provisions for themselves and the rest -of their families.</p> - -<p>At last messengers arrived from Sibidulu, bringing -Park’s horse and clothes. To his profound dismay and -disappointment the compass—which next to his notes was -his most valuable possession—was broken and useless. -The loss was irreparable.</p> - -<p>The horse proving to be a mere skeleton, he was -handed over as a present to his kind landlord.</p> - -<p>Though still ill with fever, and hardly able to totter -along, the traveller now resumed his weary way.</p> - -<p>On the two succeeding days starvation added to his -weakness. On the third a negro trader gave him some -food, and afterwards conducted him to his house at -Kinyeto. Here, as if he had not yet sufficiently run -the gamut of human suffering, he must needs endure -the agonies of a sprained ankle, which swelled and inflamed -so that he could not set his foot to the ground. -The kindly trader, however, made him welcome to stay -until quite recovered, but Park did not trespass on his -hospitality longer than was absolutely necessary.</p> - -<p>In three days he was sufficiently well to be able to -limp along with the assistance of a staff, and in this -fashion he contrived to hobble to Jerijang, whose chief—there -being no king in Manding—was considered the -most powerful in the country.</p> - -<p>Dosita was the next village reached, and here rain -without and delirium within compelled him to remain -one day. Recovering slightly, he set out for Mansia. -The road led over a high rocky hill, and almost proved -too much for the exhausted wayfarer, who had to lie -down at intervals to recover. Though only a very few<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> -miles distant, it was late in the afternoon before he -reached the town. Here he was given a little corn to -eat, and a hut to sleep in. Evidently, however, the head -man thought Park richer than he looked, and during -the night made two attempts to enter the hut, being -each time frustrated by the traveller’s vigilance. In the -morning the latter thought it better to take French -leave of such a host, and accordingly at daybreak set -forth for Kamalia, a small town situated at the bottom -of some rocky hills. This place he reached in the course -of the afternoon.</p> - -<p>At Kamalia, one Karfa Taura, brother of the hospitable -negro trader of Kinyeto, extended a like welcome -to the wayworn white man. By this time, so yellow -was the latter’s skin from his repeated fevers, and so -poverty-stricken his appearance, that the trader was only -convinced of his nationality when on showing him a -white man’s book in his possession, he found the traveller -could read it. This was a Book of Common Prayer, -of which Park obtained possession with no small surprise -and delight.</p> - -<p>Not too soon had some means of spiritual consolation -come to him, for here he learned that the country before -him—the Jallonka Wilderness, with its eight rapid rivers—was -absolutely impassable for many months to come. -Even then, when caravans found it difficult and dangerous, -what would it be to a defenceless and destitute -single man? With the knowledge that further advance -at the present was hopeless, came the realisation of the -fact that to utter exhaustion of outward resources was -now to be added the complete loss of all inward force -and strength. Exposure, hunger, toil, and fever had at -last triumphed over Park’s iron constitution, and laid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> -him low. He might still will not to die, still hope that -he would yet reach the coast, still keep up his determined -and sanguine spirit; but meanwhile, what could -he do when his physical powers had thus failed him?</p> - -<p>But even in that moment, when he found himself -overshadowed by despair and death, and at the extreme -limit of all his earthly resources, he was once again to -prove that a “Protecting Providence” watched over -him. In his supreme need a kind host had been provided -in the person of Karfa Taura to save him from -death by fever and starvation, and not only to lodge and -feed him, but at the proper time to conduct him to the -Gambia, whither he was going with a slave caravan.</p> - -<p>“Thus was I delivered by the friendly care of this -benevolent negro from a situation truly deplorable. -Distress and famine pressed hard upon me. I had -before me the gloomy wilds of Jallonkadu, where the -traveller sees no habitation for five successive days. I -had almost marked out the place where I was doomed, as -I thought, to perish, when this friendly negro stretched -out his hospitable hand to my relief.”</p> - -<p>But neither food nor suitable shelter could stay the -course of the fever. Each succeeding day saw Park -weaker, each night more delirious, till at length he could -not even crawl out of the hut. Six weary weeks he passed -hovering between life and death—alone sustained by his -intense religious beliefs and his eager hope of reaching -the coast before he died. Little wonder surely that at -times he spent “the lingering hours in a very gloomy -and solitary manner,” while the rains dashed down -remorselessly on the hut wherein he lay in the damp -stifling atmosphere and semi-darkness.</p> - -<p>At length with the passing season the rains became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> -less frequent, and the ground in consequence more -dry. With improved conditions came improved health -and stronger hope of life. At times the convalescent -managed to crawl to his door to sniff the fresher and -more wholesome air, to bathe in the bright light, and -look upon the blue heavens. It was as if he had -emerged from an open grave.</p> - -<p>Soon from the door of his hut he could totter with -his mat to the grateful shade of a tamarind tree, and -there enjoy the refreshing smell of the growing corn, -and the varied prospect of hill and valley, field and -grove around him. At other times naïve converse with -the simple natives, and half hours with his book of -prayers, made glad the passing day.</p> - -<p>Through it all Karfa Taura was ever the generous -host and faithful friend, though many there were who -vainly tried to turn him against his unknown guest.</p> - -<p>Occasionally parties of slaves were conveyed through -Kamalia. Once one of the unfortunate captives asked -Park for food. The latter represented that he was himself -a stranger and destitute. “I gave you food when -you were hungry,” was the reply; “have you forgot the -man who brought you milk at Karankalla? But,” added -he with a sigh, “the irons were not then on my legs.” -Much touched, Park recalled the incident, and instantly -begged some ground-nuts for him from Karfa.</p> - -<p>With returning health of both body and mind, Park -employed himself while wearily awaiting the completion -of the slave caravan in a variety of inquiries regarding -articles of commerce, trade routes, &c. Among other -subjects he was much interested in the slave trade. He -learned the various ways in which slaves were obtained—how -the natives kidnapped from neighbouring villages<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> -and petty states, or warred with each other to keep up -the traffic—how parents found a source of temporary -relief in times of famine by selling their children, and -kings a source of revenue by disposing of their subjects -or those convicted of crimes, while people unable to -meet their engagements in the ordinary way paid their -debts by becoming the slaves of the creditors. Of the -bloodshed and ruin resulting from the unholy traffic -he had himself seen much, and now heard more, while -remaining blind to Europe’s share in encouraging this -“great open sore” of Africa, that its merchants and -planters might be enriched thereby. As for the unhappy -victims of European commerce, they had a deeply rooted -belief that they were to be devoured by white cannibals, -and that the country across the sea was an enchanted -land quite different from their own. Their usual question -to Park was, “Have you really got such ground as -this to set your feet upon?”</p> - -<p>These ideas naturally caused the slaves to regard their -fate at the coast with terror and horror, and to seek every -opportunity of escaping.</p> - -<p>Each day Park could see his future companions to the -Gambia marched out, secured from flight by having the -right leg of one attached by fetters to the left leg of -another, with the additional precaution that every four -men were fastened together by the necks with a strong -rope. Some who were not amenable to this form of -discipline had a cylinder of wood notched at each end -fastened between the legs with iron bolts. At night -additional fetters were put on the hands, and occasionally -the prisoners were made further secure by having a light -iron chain passed round their necks. Thus loaded with -irons on neck, hand, and foot they were placed in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> -batches and left to find sleep as best they could, guarded -by Karfa Taura’s domestic slaves.</p> - -<p>One pleasant sight there was of which Park never -wearied—the Mohammedan schoolmaster of Kamalia, -and his school of seventeen boys and girls. To him “it -was not so much a matter of wonder as a matter of -regret to observe that while the superstition of Mohammed -has in this manner scattered a few faint dreams of -learning among these poor people, the precious light of -Christianity is excluded. I could not but lament,” he -continues, “that although the coast of Africa had now -been known and frequented for more than two hundred -years, yet the negroes still remain entire strangers to -the doctrines of our holy religion.... Perhaps a short -and easy introduction to Christianity, such as is found -in some of the catechisms for children, elegantly printed -in Arabic, and distributed on different parts of the coast, -might have a wonderful effect.... These reflections -I have thus ventured to submit to my readers on this -important subject, on perceiving the encouragement -which was thus given to learning (such as it is) in many -parts of Africa. I have observed that the pupils of -Kamalia were most of them children of Pagans; their -parents therefore could have had no predilection for the -doctrines of Mohammed. Their aim was their children’s -improvement.” So much indeed was education prized -that the usual course was valued at the price of a prime -slave.</p> - -<p>By the beginning of the year 1797, everything was -ready for departure, but on various trivial pretexts the -leave-taking was put off from day to day till the approach -of Rhamadan, when it was determined to wait till it was -over before commencing their journey.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p> - -<p>During the whole of the month of fast “the negroes -behaved themselves with the greatest meekness and -humility, forming a striking contrast to the savage -intolerance and brutal bigotry which at this period -characterise the Moors.”</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE SLAVE ROUTE.</i></span></h2> - -<p>In the second week of April the Mohammedans of -Kamalia were on the alert for the expected appearance -of the new moon, which would terminate their month of -fasting. On the evening of this joyful event it seemed -for a time as if they were to be disappointed, and that -yet another day would have to be added to their Rhamadan. -Clouds veiled the sky. Only temporarily, however. -The obscuring mists broke, and the delicate curved -beauty of the new moon gleamed upon the upturned -faces, and carried joy to every Mussulman heart. Shrill -screams from the women and shouts from the men, -hand clapping, drum beating, and musket firing gave -voice to the general delight.</p> - -<p>Orders were at once given by Karfa to prepare for -the march, and on consultation the 19th of April was -chosen for the day of departure. This was good news -for Park, who, sick with hope long deferred, and -“wearied with a constant state of alarm and anxiety, -had developed a painful longing for the manifold blessings -of civilisation.” All the slatees had done their best -to set Karfa against the white stranger, and the latter -constantly feared that their evil machinations might -prevail, and that he would be cast forth helpless and -destitute among the dangerous wilds of Africa.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> - -<p>At last the wished-for day of departure arrived. The -slatees assembled with their slaves before their leader -Karfa’s door. The bundles were finally roped, and the -loads assigned to the men and women who were to carry -them. When mustered, the caravan numbered thirty-five -slaves, and thirty-eight free people and domestic -slaves, a schoolmaster with eight pupils, and six singing -men to lighten with song and antic the toils of the route, -while at the same time making the presence of the caravan -more welcome to the natives, and its reception more -hospitable at their hands.</p> - -<p>Amid much hand-shaking and various manifestations -of fear, regret, and grief, the signal to start was given, -and the caravan set out on its journey. At a rising -some distance out of town a halt was called. All were -ordered to seat themselves, the departing band of travellers -with their faces towards the west, the townspeople -who had so far accompanied them with theirs towards -Kamalia and the east. The schoolmaster and two of -the principal slatees, placing themselves between, raised -a long and solemn prayer that their journey might -be successful and safe under the protection of Allah. -Afterwards the caravan was encircled three times, that -a charm might be woven round the party, and their -safety thus further ensured. The ceremony concluded, -all sprang to their feet, and without further leave-taking -the start was made towards the ocean.</p> - -<p>At first the movements of many of the slaves were -eloquent of the fetters they had worn for years. Their -attempts at walking were marked by spasmodic contractions -of the legs, and very soon two of them had to -be released from the rope to allow them to go slower, so -painful were their efforts to step out freely and briskly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span></p><div class="center"> -<img id="i_163" src="images/i_163.png" width="442" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BAOBAB TREE.</p></div> - -<p>In two marches Worumbang, the western frontier -village of Manding, was reached without mishap. The -party was now on the verge of the dreaded Jallonka -Wilderness. Provisions had to be gathered for the -passage of this trying region, and every one rested to -prepare for the forced marches and hardships ahead.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 21st the outskirts of the -wilderness were entered. On reaching the woods a halt -was called, and a prayer offered up that Allah and his -prophet might preserve them from robbers, keep them -from hunger, and sustain them under fatigue. This -ceremony over, it behoved every man to push forward -with all his strength and will if Kinytakuro, the proposed -destination of that day’s march, was to be reached -before dark. Every one, bond and free alike, knew the -dangers before him, and ran rather than walked.</p> - -<p>Soon the Niger basin was left, and the Kokoro, a -tributary of the Senegal, was reached. At this time it -was a mere rivulet, but there was ample evidence to -show that during the rainy season it had risen twenty -feet.</p> - -<p>No halt was made throughout the day—nothing was -heard but the order to push on. Well indeed was it -for those who had the strength to do so. Some there -were who could not. A woman and a girl began to lag -behind. Threats and curses from time to time incited -them to spasmodic efforts at exertion, but soon these -failed in their effect, and fell on unheeding ears. The -lash was next brought into play, and for a time gave the -needed stimulus. Then it too failed. Savage hands -grasped the unhappy victims of European commerce -and dragged them forward, while others behind plied -the whip with unabating ferocity. The limits of nature<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> -were reached at last, and both sank to the ground, not -to be moved by any form of fiendish cruelty. Furious -and disappointed, their master had at length to give -in, and make up his mind to return home for the time -being.</p> - -<p>About sunset the town of Kinytakuro was reached, -and the anxieties of the first day’s march were over. -The entry to the town was made with much ceremony -and circumstance. The musicians led the way singing -the praises of the villagers, their hospitality, and their -friendship to the Mandingoes. After them followed -some of the free men; then came the slaves, fastened -in fours by a rope round the neck, with an armed -man between each set. Behind the raw slaves came the -domestic slaves, while the rear was brought up by the -free women, the wives of the slatees, the scholars, &c. -In this way the caravan marched to the palaver house, -where the people gathered round to hear their story; -after which lodgings and food were provided for the -entire party.</p> - -<p>At daybreak on the 23rd, the wilderness proper was -entered. At ten o’clock the river Wonda, flowing to -the Senegal, was crossed, and then strict commands were -given that close order should be maintained, and every -man travel in his proper station.</p> - -<p>The guides and the young men led the way, the -women and slaves occupied the centre, while the free -men brought up the rear. The country through which -they passed unmolested, though with hurried footsteps, -was charming in the extreme, with its variety of hill -and dale, of glade and wood, and meandering streams, -to which partridges, guinea fowl, and deer gave an air -of animation. On this day Park got his arms and neck<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> -painfully blistered by the burning sun, from which his -scanty dress afforded him no protection.</p> - -<p>At sunset a romantic stream called Comcissang was -reached, and here the party halted for the night, -thoroughly fatigued with their day’s exertions, though -no one was heard to complain. Large fires were kindled -for cooking purposes, as well as to light up the camp -and drive away wild beasts. Supper over, the slaves -were put in irons to prevent their escaping, and then -all disposed themselves to sleep; but between ants -within the camp and wild beasts howling without the -night’s rest was sadly broken.</p> - -<p>At daybreak morning prayers were said, after which -a little gruel was drunk by the free men, the irons -being thereafter once more taken off the slaves, and -the march resumed.</p> - -<p>The route now led over a wild and rocky country, -where Park, with nothing better than sandals to protect -his feet, got sadly bruised and cut. Fears began to -oppress him that he would not be able to keep up with -the caravan, and that he would be left behind to perish. -The sight of others more exhausted than himself was, -however, in some sort a relief from his apprehension. -Neali, one of Karfa’s female slaves, especially showed -signs of giving in. She began to lag behind, complaining -of pains in her legs, and her load had to be taken from -her and given to another. About midday, while halting -at a rivulet, an enormous swarm of bees, which had -been disturbed by one of the men, set upon the caravan, -and sent it flying in all directions. When the panic -had subsided, it was discovered that Neali had been -left behind. Before going back in search of her it -was necessary to set fire to the grass to the east of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> -hive in order to clear away the bees with the smoke. -The plan was effectual, and on returning to the rivulet, -Neali was found half dead in the water, whither she -had crept in the hope of escaping the onslaught of the -bees. The stratagem had been of no avail, however, -and the poor creature was almost stung to death.</p> - -<p>It was the last drop in her cup of misery. Nothing -else could touch her. Entreaties and threats were alike -useless. Further forward she doggedly refused to go. -Once more the efficacy of the whip was tried. Down -came the brutal lash. The girl writhed in every muscle, -but she neither screamed nor attempted to rise. Again -the lash swung round her shrinking body, but with no -more effect. Not until it had descended a third and a -fourth time did her resolution give way. Then stung to -superhuman effort by the fearful torture, she started up -and staggered forward for some hours, till wild with -agony she made a mad attempt to run away, but fell -fainting among the grass. Her master’s only remedy -was the lash, and that he applied with renewed savagery. -In vain—Neali was beyond its cruel compulsion. As a -last resource the donkey which carried the dry provisions -was brought, and the half dead slave placed on his back. -But the girl’s only wish was to die, nay, even now she -seemed as one already dead.</p> - -<p>Unable even if she had been willing to retain her seat, -and the donkey at the same time emphatically objecting -to his new load, that means of carriage had to be given -up. The day’s journey, however, was nearly over, and -Neali being a valuable slave, the slatees could not bring -themselves to abandon her. Accordingly, they made a -rude litter of bamboo canes, on which she was carried -until the camping ground for the night was reached.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p> - -<p>It now became evident that Neali was not the only -slave for whom the journey was proving too much. The -hard march with heavy loads under a broiling sun, without -food, and with no better stimulant than blows and -curses—with nothing to look forward to at night but -additional chains, and in the future a horrible fate at -the hands of white men across the seas—all this was -beginning to have its natural effect. Sullen despair was -in every feature—every gesture. Death, suicide, seemed -preferable to such a chain of horrors.</p> - -<p>The slatees were not slow to mark these ominous signs. -At once fetters were applied—the more desperate of the -slaves having even their hands chained; and thus bound -they were left to rest as best they might.</p> - -<p>Throughout the night Neali lay torpid and almost -motionless, and morning found her with limbs so stiff -and swollen that she could not stand, much less walk. -The donkey was again brought into requisition, and to -keep her on his back the girl’s hands were tied round -his neck, and her feet under his belly. Spite of these -precautions, however, before long the donkey threw her, -and bound as she was, she was nearly trampled to death -before she could be released.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile precious time was being wasted in a -wilderness where every minute was of the utmost importance. -To carry the girl in the fashion of the previous -evening was out of the question, and the patience -of every one was exhausted. “Cut her throat! cut her -throat!” was the cry now raised by the slave dealers. -Strange to say, Park did not seem to have anything to -urge against this brutal suggestion—for Neali indeed the -most merciful ending of her troubles—though being unwilling -to see it put in force, he walked on ahead. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> -few minutes later one of Karfa’s men came up to him -carrying Neali’s scanty cotton garment, which to Park -was eloquent of the poor girl’s fate. He could not bring -himself to make inquiries then, but later on he learned -that Neali had not had the good fortune to have her -tortures ended at once by the knife. She was deserted, -and a day of exposure, naked to the remorseless sun, -without food or drink, had to drag slowly on before -darkness drew a veil over the last horrible scene, in -which she met death under the fangs of the wild beasts -of the Jallonka Wilderness.</p> - -<p>The fate of the slave girl had a wonderfully stimulating -effect on the rest of the caravan; but the schoolmaster, -in doubts as to how Allah would regard the -incident, fasted the whole day. In deep silence the -slaves travelled onward at a steady pace, each apprehensive -that his too might be the fate of Neali. No one -was more apprehensive than Park himself. Only by -the most determined effort of will did he keep himself -from succumbing on the march. Everything that could -obstruct him in the least—even his spear—was thrown -away, but still he could just barely struggle on. “The -poor slaves, amidst their own infinitely greater sufferings, -would commiserate mine, and frequently of their -own accord bring water to quench my thirst, and at -night collect branches and leaves to prepare me a bed -in the wilderness.”</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 26th, two of the schoolmaster’s -pupils complained of pains in their legs, and one of the -slaves walked lame, the soles of his feet being much -blistered and inflamed. But there could be no halting -for such trivial causes, and the caravan pushed onward -with hot haste, eager to escape as soon as possible the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> -hardships and dangers of the desert. In the middle of -the day a rocky hill was reached, the crossing of which -greatly aggravated the sores on the travellers’ feet. In -the afternoon evidences of a raiding party of horsemen -were seen, and to hide their track the caravan had to -disperse and travel wide apart for some distance.</p> - -<p>Another day of toil ended the desert march. On -the 27th, the village of Susita, in the district of Kullo, -was entered. The rest of the road was comparatively -safe. Next day the Bafing or Black River, the principal -branch of the Senegal, was crossed by a bamboo -bridge of singular construction. Trees tied end to end -were made to support a roadway of bamboos—the centre -of the bridge floating on the water, the ends resting on -the banks. On the rising of the water during the rains -this primitive bridge is carried away each year.</p> - -<p>Though the caravan had now got into a well-populated -district, their troubles were hardly over. They -were refused admittance at village after village, and to -complete their discomfiture, news came that two hundred -Jallonkas had gathered to plunder them. This necessitated -an alteration in their route, and a forced night -march. After midnight a town was reached, but as a -free man and three slaves were found to be missing, -a halt was called, and while the caravan remained -concealed in a cotton field, a search party returned to -look for the runaways. In the morning the town was -entered, and the day was passed in resting from their -fatigues. Here, to the joy of all, the absentees turned -up safely. One of the slaves had hurt his foot, and -they had thus lagged behind and lost the caravan. -The free man, foreseeing the danger of an outbreak, -insisted on putting the slaves in irons. This they were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> -inclined to resist, but a threat to stab them all had its -due effect.</p> - -<p>On the 3rd of May the caravan reached the schoolmaster’s -native village, Malacotta, where in consequence -a hearty welcome awaited them. Three days were spent -here recruiting the party. During that time Park -learned the particulars of a remarkable story of Moslem -zeal and Pagan chivalry and generosity, well worthy of -being retold.</p> - -<p>“The King of Futa Torra, inflamed with a zeal for -propagating his religion, had sent an embassy to Damel, -King of the Jaloffs.</p> - -<p>“The ambassador was accompanied by two of the -principal Mohammedans of the country, who each carried -a knife fixed on the top of a long pole. ‘With this -knife,’ said the ambassador, ‘Abdul Kader will condescend -to shave the head of Damel, if Damel will -embrace the Mohammedan religion; and with this other -knife Abdul Kader will cut the throat of Damel if Damel -refuse to embrace it. Take your choice.’</p> - -<p>“Damel replied that he had no choice to make. He -neither chose to have his head shaved nor his throat -cut; and with this answer the ambassador was civilly -dismissed. War was accordingly declared, and the -country of Damel invaded. The fortune of war, however, -went against the earthly instrument of Allah, -and his army was not only dispersed with great loss, -but he himself taken prisoner. In this humiliating -position Abdul Kader was brought in irons and thrown -on the ground before Damel. Instead of setting his -foot on the neck of his royal prisoner and stabbing him -with his spear, as is the custom in such cases, Damel -addressed him as follows—‘Abdul Kader, answer me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> -this question. If the chance of war had placed me in -your situation, and you in mine, how would you have -treated me?’</p> - -<p>“‘I would have thrust my spear into your heart,’ -answered the brave though fanatical prince; ‘and I -know that a similar fate awaits me.’</p> - -<p>“‘Not so,’ said Damel. ‘My spear is indeed red with -the blood of your subjects killed in battle, and I could -now give it a deeper stain by dipping it in your own; -but this would not build up my towns, nor bring to life -the thousands who fell in the woods. I will not therefore -kill you in cold blood, but I will retain you as my -slave until I perceive that your presence in your own -kingdom will be no longer dangerous to your neighbours, -and then I will consider of the proper way of -disposing of you.’ A decision which has been made the -subject of the songs of the musicians, and a matter of -applausive comment by all the tribes.</p> - -<p>“Abdul Kader was accordingly retained, and worked -as a slave for three months; at the end of which period -Damel listened to the solicitations of the inhabitants of -Futa Torra, and restored to them their king.”</p> - -<p>Of the truth of this story there seems to be no doubt.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>BACK TO THE GAMBIA AND HOME.</i></span></h2> - -<p>At Malacotta, Park could look forward with a considerable -degree of confidence to his safe return to the -coast. He was once more within the sphere of influence -of coast trade, where the European was better -known, and the hostile agency of the Moor was of small -account. There were no more jungles to cross, and he -was unaware of obstructing wars on the route. Through -good and evil report Karfa had remained his staunch -friend, and it was certain that now that his promised -reward was coming nearer and nearer attainment, he -would not alter in his honourable fidelity to his engagements. -It was now only a question of so many more -days’ journey till the Gambia would be reached, and all -Park’s cares and troubles be at an end.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of May the slave caravan left Malacotta, -and resumed its journey to the coast. The Bali, a -branch of the Senegal, was crossed, and Bintingala -entered in the evening.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon of the 12th the Falemé River was -forded about 100 miles south of Park’s fording point -on his inland journey. At this place and time of year -the river was only two feet deep, flowing over a bed of -sand and gravel.</p> - -<p>On the same day the caravan halted at the residence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> -of a Mandingo merchant, who had his food served up in -pewter dishes in the European fashion. Next morning -they were joined by a Serawuli slave caravan. These -traders had the reputation of being infinitely more cruel -in their treatment of slaves than the Mandingoes. Park -was soon to see a sample of their ways. The caravan -was travelling with great speed through the dense woods, -when one of the slaves began to show signs of exhaustion, -and let his load fall from his head. A smart flogging -proved a temporary stimulant to the unhappy victim, -but hardly a mile was passed before nature once more -asserted itself, and again the load fell. A double dose -of the lash proved a second time effectual, and once -more the slave struggled painfully forward. At last -the limits of his powers were reached, and it became -clear that flog as they might he would remain immovable.</p> - -<p>The caravan could not wait till he recovered, and -accordingly one of the Serawulis undertook to wait -and bring him to camp in the cool of the evening. -When the slave dealer did arrive in camp he came -alone. No questions were asked, but every one knew -that either the unfortunate man had been killed, or was -left to be devoured by wild beasts.</p> - -<p>Other examples of the slave dealers’ methods were -almost daily exhibited before Park’s eyes. At one -place a Mandingo, having a slave torn from a neighbouring -district, agreed with Karfa to exchange him -for another from a more distant country, to which he -could not run away. The slave to be taken by Karfa -was called on a trivial pretext to come into the house. -The moment he entered the gate was shut, and he was -told to sit down. At once he saw the danger of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> -situation—not only the more horrible fate of transportation -across the seas, but the loss of all chance of -escape to his native country. He would at least make -one effort for liberty. With the wild leap of a hunted -deer he cleared the fence of the court and bolted for -the woods. But it was useless. His enemies were too -many. A few minutes of wild flight, spurred on by -wolfish cries, and then he was hunted down and brought -back in irons to be handed over to Karfa.</p> - -<p>At another place one of the male slaves in the caravan -was found to be too exhausted to proceed further in -spite of the usual physical stimulants. A townsman -was found willing to exchange him for a young girl. -No hint was given her of her approaching doom till the -last moment. Along with her companions she had come -to see the caravan depart, when all at once her master -seized her by the hand and delivered her to the slave -dealer. “Never was a face of serenity more suddenly -changed into one of the deepest distress. The terror she -manifested on having the load put upon her head and -the rope round her neck, and the sorrow with which she -bade adieu to her companions, were truly affecting.”</p> - -<p>Incidents like these were what chiefly characterised -Park’s journey to the Gambia. At times the curious as -well as the horrible side of African life peeped out to -entertain him, as, for instance, when one of the slatees, -on returning for the first time to his native place after -an absence of three years, was met at the threshold of -his door by his bride-elect, who presented him with a -calabash of water in which to wash his hands. This -done, “the girl, with a tear of joy sparkling in her -eye, drank the water,” in token of her fidelity and -attachment.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span></p> - -<p>Another of the slatees turned out to be an African -Enoch Arden. For eight long years he had stayed -away from his wife, during which time she heard -nothing from him. Concluding after three years that -he was either dead or not likely to return, she seemingly -without reluctance gave her heart and hand to -another, by whom she had two children. The first -husband now claimed her as his. The other objected -on the ground that a three years’ absence annulled a -marriage. For four days a public palaver was held to -settle this knotty point, ending in the decision that the -husbands had equal rights, and that the wife had best -settle the matter by making her own choice. The lady -asked time to consider, but Park could perceive that not -love but wealth would gain the day.</p> - -<p>On the 20th of May the caravan entered the Tenda -Wilderness, where for two days they traversed dense -woods. With what pleasure must Park have noticed -that the country shelved towards the south-west—that -in fact he had entered the basin of the Gambia. At -sunset of the first day a pool was reached after a very -hot and trying march. To avoid the burning heats of -the day a night march was determined on. At eleven -o’clock the slaves were released from their irons and -driven forward in close order, as much to prevent them -escaping as to save them from wild beasts. In this -fashion they travelled till daybreak, after a rest continuing -the march to Tambakunda, the place almost -reached by Jobson nearly 170 years before, and which -he believed to be Timbuktu itself.</p> - -<p>From Tambakunda the road led over a wild and rocky -country, everywhere rising into hills, and abounding -with monkeys and wild beasts. During the next two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> -marches the reception everywhere met with by the -caravan was far from being hospitable, and they were -even in some danger of being plundered.</p> - -<p>On the 30th of May the Nerico, a branch of the -Gambia, was reached. As soon as it was crossed the -singing men began to chant a song expressive of their -delight at having got safe into the “land of the setting -sun.” Next day, to his infinite joy, Park found himself -on the banks of the Gambia, at a point where it was -navigable, though lower down there were shallows.</p> - -<p>Three days later, Medina, the capital of Wulli, was -reached, where Park had been so hospitably received -seventeen months before. The caravan did not halt -here; but Park, mindful of the old king’s prayer on his -behalf, sent word to him that his prayers had not been -unavailing.</p> - -<p>Next day Jindeh was reached, where the parting -with Dr. Laidley had taken place. Here Karfa left -his slaves till a better opportunity of selling them had -arrived; but determined not to leave his white friend -till the last, he accompanied him on his way to Pisania.</p> - -<p>Park at this point remarks: “Although I was -now approaching the end of my tedious and toilsome -journey, and expected in another day to meet with -countrymen and friends, I could not part for the last -time with my unfortunate fellow-travellers, doomed as -I knew most of them to be to a life of captivity and -slavery in a foreign land, without great emotion.... -We parted with reciprocal expressions of regret -and benediction. My good wishes and prayers were -all that I could bestow upon them, and it afforded me -some consolation to be told that they were sensible I -had no more to give.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the 10th, Park once more shook hands with one -of his countrymen. He found that it was universally -believed that he had met the same fate as Major -Houghton in Ludamar. He also learned with sincere -sorrow that neither Johnson, who had deserted him, -nor Demba, who had been enslaved by the Moors, had -returned.</p> - -<p>On the 12th, Dr. Laidley joined the long-lost traveller, -and greeted him as one risen from the dead. Park was -soon, under his hospitable hands, divested of his ragged -Moorish garments. With them went the luxuriant -beard which had been the delight and admiration of -natives and Moors alike, among whom nothing is more -envied, and he stood forth once more the handsome -young Scotchman his portrait shows him to be.</p> - -<p>Karfa was now paid off, the stipulated reward being -doubled, and Dr. Laidley’s interest also promised in -getting his slaves disposed of to advantage.</p> - -<p>Karfa was never tired expressing his wonderment at -all he saw, though nothing surprised him more than the -incomprehensible madness of a person in Park’s condition -in life leaving all and suffering so many hardships -and dangers merely to see the river Niger. “I have -preserved,” says Park, “these little traits of character -in this worthy negro, not only from regard to the man, -but also because they appear to me to demonstrate that -he possessed a mind above his condition, and to such of -my readers as love to contemplate human nature in all -its varieties, and to trace its progress from rudeness to -refinement, I hope the account I have given of this poor -African will not be unacceptable.”</p> - -<p>Looking back on his long and terrible journey, Park -could afford to take a lenient view of all the people who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> -had plundered, ill-used, or inhospitably treated him, -except the Moors, of whom he carried a deep-rooted -horror and hatred to his dying day. For the Mandingoes -and kindred tribes he could ever find an excuse -for all he suffered at their hands, and as a people he -found them gentle, cheerful in their dispositions, kind-hearted, -and simple, with a natural sense of justice -which only very great temptation could overcome. He -could not find words strong enough to describe the -disinterested charity and tender solicitude shown by -many of them, especially the women, whom he found -to be universally kind and compassionate, sympathising -with his sufferings, relieving his distresses, and contributing -to his safety.</p> - -<p>Reviewing what he had seen commercially, he found -that slaves, gold, and ivory, beeswax and honey, hides, -gums, and dye woods, constituted the whole catalogue -of exportable commodities. Of other products, such as -tobacco, indigo, and cotton, sufficient only was raised for -native consumption. He concluded, nevertheless, that -“it cannot, however, admit of a doubt that all the rich -and valuable productions both of the East and West -Indies might easily be naturalised and brought to the -utmost perfection in the tropical parts of this immense -continent. Nothing is wanting to this end but example -to enlighten the minds of the natives, and instruction to -enable them to direct their industry to proper objects. -It was not possible for me to behold the wonderful -fertility of the soil, the vast herds of cattle, proper both -for food and labour, and a variety of other circumstances -favourable to colonisation and agriculture, and -reflect withal on the means which presented themselves -of a vast inland navigation, without lamenting that a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> -country so abundantly gifted and favoured by nature -should remain in its present savage and neglected state. -Much more did I lament that a people of manners and -dispositions so gentle and benevolent should either be -left as they now are, immersed in the gross and uncomfortable -blindness of Pagan superstition, or permitted -to become converts to a system of bigotry and fanaticism -which, without enlightening the mind, often debases -the heart.” And yet which of the representatives of -the two religions, Islam and Christianity, were doing -the most good among the heathen according to Park’s -own showing—the Mohammedans, battling against the -inrushing tide of rum and gin, encouraging education, -and spreading a knowledge of Allah the One God; or -the Christian merchants, fomenting and deepening all -the horrors of native barbarism that their trade in -slaves might be kept up, and adding to the degradation -of the land by the drink and firearms they gave in -exchange for its people?</p> - -<p>As there was no ship in the river when Park arrived, -he expected to have to wait for some months. In this, -however, he was happily disappointed, for an American -slave ship, the <i>Charlestown</i>, arrived on the 15th. Slaves -were plentiful, and in a couple of days the cargo of -human flesh and blood for the plantations of South -Carolina was made up in exchange for rum and tobacco.</p> - -<p>Though the route by America was excessively circuitous, -it was such a chance as Park could not afford -to neglect. Accordingly, on the 17th of June he bade -farewell to all his English friends, and took passage in -the American vessel.</p> - -<p>He had now reason to suppose that all his cares, -anxieties, and dangers were over, and nothing but rest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> -and good treatment before him. Once more, however, -he was dogged by his usual ill-luck. The passage -down the river was tedious and fatiguing, the weather -being exceedingly hot, moist, and unhealthy. The result -was that before Goree was reached, four of the seamen, -the surgeon, and three of the slaves had died of fever. -At Goree, owing to the difficulty of obtaining provisions, -the vessel was detained four weary months, so that it was -the end of October before she eventually set sail for -America.</p> - -<p>The <i>Charlestown’s</i> cargo consisted of 130 slaves, of -whom twenty-five had been free Mohammedans, able to -read and write a little Arabic. Some of the others had -seen Park <i>en route</i>, and many had heard of him in their -distant villages. But though he had not a word to say -against the slave trade, Park had a feeling heart for the -miseries of those whom, with his Calvinistic ideas, he -believed predestined to a life of shame and suffering. -Being able to speak to them in their native language, -he did his best as a man and a doctor to comfort them. -And in truth they had need of all the consolation he -could bestow. The manner in which they were crowded, -confined, and chained in the hold of the ship produced -terrible sufferings, while the foul air, the wretched -sanitary conditions, and the want of exercise brought -on general sickness. “Besides the three who died on -the Gambia, and six or eight at Goree, eleven perished -at sea, and many of the survivors were reduced to a -very weak and emaciated condition.”</p> - -<p>To make matters worse for all concerned, the <i>Charlestown</i> -sprang a leak three weeks from Goree, and threatened -to founder in mid-ocean. To avoid this, the ablest of -the negroes were taken from their chains and kept at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> -the pumps till they could be hounded on no longer, and -sank down exhausted and half dead. In spite of everything, -however, the leak continued to gain, and the -misery of all on board was indescribable. As affording -the only chance of safety, the <i>Charlestown</i> was turned -from its course and steered for Antigua, which was -reached thirty-five days out from Goree. But even in -sight of harbour the ship narrowly escaped destruction -by striking on a sunken rock.</p> - -<p>Park remained at Antigua for two days, when on -the 24th November he was taken up by a passing mail -ship. After a short but tempestuous voyage he arrived -at Falmouth on the 22nd December, having been absent -from England two years and nine months.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>MUNGO PARK AT HOME.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Once landed at Falmouth, Park lost no time in proceeding -to London. In those days there was no telegraph -to apprise the world of his arrival, nor newspaper -reporters to interview him, and give their readers a -description of his appearance and a foretaste of his -adventures.</p> - -<p>He reached London before daybreak on the 25th -December, and directed his steps to the house of his -brother-in-law, Mr. Dickson. Not caring to disturb his -relative at that early hour, he wandered about the -streets for some time, till finding one of the gates to the -British Museum Gardens open, he entered.</p> - -<p>As it happened, Dickson had charge of these gardens, -and on this particular morning had business which took -him there unusually early. Conceive his amazement -on coming face to face with what for a moment he -almost took to be a vision or ghost of his young relative, -long since believed to be dead. It did not take long to -convince him, however, that here was no ghost, but the -actual traveller himself, safe and well, his great mission -carried through to a successful conclusion.</p> - -<p>The interest, delight, and surprise of the Association, -as well as of the public generally, were no less keen. -For some time it had been looked on as a certainty that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> -he had been murdered, and now the utmost curiosity -prevailed to hear his adventures, and at last learn -something authentic about the mysterious river of the -negroes.</p> - -<p>It looked indeed as if Park’s own prediction to his -brother before leaving for Africa, that he would “acquire -a greater name than any ever did,” was to be verified. -In the absence of more definite news, the hand to -hand reports which circulated only tended to exaggerate -his feats and discoveries.</p> - -<p>So eager became the demand for information that it -was determined to issue a preliminary report of the -principal geographical results of the expedition. This -was written by Bryan Edwards, the Secretary of the -Association, a gentleman of no inconsiderable literary -attainments, and author of a “History of the British -Colonies in the West Indies.”</p> - -<p>To the collaboration of Edwards was added that of -Major Rennell, who worked out with very great care -the traveller’s routes, and the geography of the region -generally. In addition, Rennell added a memoir on the -upper course of the Niger beyond Park’s furthest point, -collating with his information that of the Arabian -geographers.</p> - -<p>But the public demanded something more than the -dry bones of geography to satisfy their hungry appetite. -They wanted also the flesh and blood of his narrative—how -he lived and moved, what he felt and suffered, -what dangers he faced, what hardships endured, the -wonders he saw. Books of travel had not then deluged -the market and saturated men’s minds with details -about the remotest corners of Inner Africa. It was -practically virgin soil to the reader, who could in nowise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> -guess beforehand what startling revelations were in -store for him. Compared with the modern devourer -of books of travel, his sensations would be as those -of the first explorer of the Gambia to the subdued -expectancy of our latest traveller.</p> - -<p>To gratify this very natural curiosity Park now -devoted himself. His materials, apart from his memory, -were but scanty. They consisted, in fact, of short notes -or memoranda, written on odds and ends of paper, -which must often have been far from legible, considering -how they were carried for months in the crown of -a battered hat, exposed to damp and all manner of -accidents.</p> - -<p>In the task of authorship Park was no doubt -materially aided by Mr. Edwards, with whom he lived -on terms of great friendship. In one or two places -the pen of Edwards is clearly traceable, but these are -few and far between. Where he lent the most valuable -assistance was in the pruning, rearrangement, and revision -which the work of a novice in composition would -almost necessarily require. In this respect, however, -Park is not alone among travellers. Few indeed among -them have had such a complete mastery of the pen -and of the English language as to trust absolutely in -their own literary powers and judgment, although, as -in Park’s case, the assistance required has seldom gone -beyond guidance and revision.</p> - -<p>Apart from his literary influence, it can hardly be -doubted that Edwards very materially moulded Park’s -views on at least one important subject—the slave trade. -At that time the question of abolition had become a -burning one in the country, and Edwards was one of -the warmest advocates of the old order of things. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> -would give Africa Light, but no Liberty. While actively -employed in trying to open up the Dark Continent to -European influence, he strenuously strove to ensure -that that influence should remain of the most criminal -and degrading nature.</p> - -<p>Let the reader imagine what would have been the -consequence to Africa if the advocates of slavery had -had their way, and the exploration of the Continent -had only been the forerunner of more widespread ramifications -of the slave trade. However incredible it may -appear, such might easily have been the case. People -once accustomed to an evil soon forget that it is such, -and begin to look upon it as one of the necessary and -unavoidable ills of life. Take, for example, the survival -of the African gin trade to this very day, increasing -and flourishing long after its dissociation from its well-matched -sister traffic in slaves, and everywhere dogging -the explorer’s footsteps. It is doubtful if even the slave -trade has done more to brutalise and degrade the negro; -and yet even in our time there is only a partial awakening -to the frightful evils of the iniquitous traffic.</p> - -<p>This culpable blindness or carelessness on our part is -doubtless largely fostered by the comforting and comfortable -belief that our missionaries are doing a great -and noble work in Africa, and that mere contact with -the European and European commerce must of necessity -have an elevating effect upon the lower races. The truth -is that for every negro nominally or genuinely brought -under the influence of Christianity, ten thousand have -been driven by drink to depths of moral and physical -depravity unheard of among uncontaminated native -tribes, and that so far contact with the European -and his commerce has resulted not in elevation to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> -the African, but in degradation of the most loathsome -kind.</p> - -<p>To what extent Park was really influenced in his -opinions on the slave question by Edwards it would be -difficult to say. It matters little, however, for whether -he really believed in the righteousness of slavery or was -merely reasoned into neutrality, his position was equally -indefensible. Nay, more, if, as his friends say, he really -believed that the trade was an unjust one, the position -he assumed was nothing more nor less than criminal. -These urge, as if it were an extenuating circumstance, -that in private conversation he even expressed the -greatest abhorrence of the traffic. This, it must be confessed, -seems improbable. Such an attitude is utterly -unlike what we should expect from a man of Park’s -marked individuality and strong earnest truthfulness. -Moreover, it seems sufficiently clear that the public -opinion of his day ascribed to him a belief in the -righteousness of the principle of slavery, and if it was -wrong, it seems strange that he took no means to correct -it. But that it was not wrong seems evident from -a speech delivered on the Abolition of the Slave Trade -by George Hibbert in Parliament in 1803.</p> - -<p>The following is an extract—valuable, too, as throwing -light upon the share of Edwards in the writing of Park’s -book:—</p> - -<p>“I have read and heard that we are to look to Park’s -facts and not to his opinions; and it has been insinuated -that his editor, Mr. Edwards, had foisted those -opinions (relating to the slave trade) into his book. It -happened to me once to converse with Mr. Park at a -meeting of the Linnean Society, when this very topic -was started, and he assured me that, not being in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> -habit of literary composition, he was obliged to employ -some one to put his manuscript into a form fit for the -public eye, but that every sheet of the publication had -undergone his strict revision, and that not only every -fact but every sentiment was his own.”</p> - -<p>We must, therefore, till more convincing proof than -hearsay evidence is forthcoming, believe that Mungo -Park was a believer in the slave trade. Such a position -we can understand and make all due allowance for -as the result of the ideas of the time, and of those by -whom he was immediately surrounded—to believe else -were to place Park on a distinctly lower pedestal than -that to which he is entitled by his many meritorious -characteristics.</p> - -<p>Shortly after the publication of the abstract of Park’s -narrative, he left London on a visit to his family at -Foulshiels, where his mother still lived, though his -father had been dead for some years. Here he remained -the whole of the summer and autumn of 1798, working -assiduously at the narrative of his travels. This was -probably anything but an agreeable task to him after -the eventful life he had led for three years, and unaccustomed -as he was to literary work. But Park was -not the man to shirk any work, however irksome, if it -in any way appeared to him in the light of a duty. -His mornings he devoted to writing, his evenings to -strolls along the bank of his much-loved Yarrow, where, -rarely troubled by native or by passing stranger, he -could undisturbed recall the various events which -marked his African wanderings, and on the dreamy -rush of the mountain stream let his thoughts glide -back to the majestic sweep of the Joliba moving -eastward towards its unknown bourne. What hours<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> -he must have spent thus, seeking in his mind’s eye -to pierce the dark veil which so mysteriously shrouded -the great African river beyond Timbuktu, and follow it -to its union with the ocean, or its gradual disappearance -in the Central Deserts.</p> - -<p>At times restlessness and a feeling of revolt took -possession of him, and then the only charm that could -exorcise the demon of unrest within him or soothe his -wild vague longings, was a long swift walk among the -wild romantic scenery around. Up Yarrow’s winding -dale, on the bold front of Newark Hill, or the heathery -summit of the Broomy Law, his was the keen pleasure -of a soul that knows “a rapture on the lonely shore.” -The distant bleat of sheep, the plaintive call of the -curlew, and the whirr of grouse, harmonised well with -the mood possessing him, and touched his heart with -the wild pathos of Nature. Happiest when alone, he -found companions in all the sounds around him. The -breeze, the rushing stream, the wild calls of bird and -beast, all alike spoke to him, and adapted themselves to -his every mood.</p> - -<p>All this may be vaguely discerned by virtue of the -gleams of light which have momentarily shot across the -darkness of the past, and preserved a blurred though -speaking print of the great traveller at home among his -native hills.</p> - -<p>But although thus isolated from the world at large, -Park was not entirely cut off from communication with -his fellow-men. His chief resort when in a mood for -society was the house of his friend and master in -medicine, Dr. Anderson, who still practised in Selkirk, -within easy reach of Foulshiels. As one result of these -frequent visits, the friendship of former days for Miss<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> -Anderson speedily developed into a warmer feeling, and -summer saw them engaged.</p> - -<p>Towards the latter part of 1798, Park returned to -London to make the final arrangements for the publication -of his narrative. Even then, however, much had -to be done with the assistance of Edwards before the -manuscript was finally ready for the press, and spring -had come before the book saw the light.</p> - -<p>It would be difficult to overestimate the enthusiasm -with which it was received, or the interest in Park and -Africa which it aroused. Two editions were sold off in -rapid succession, and were followed by several others in -the course of the following ten years.</p> - -<p>Apart from its being almost the first of African books -of travel, and from the absolute novelty of all it contained, -the narrative was told with a charm and <i>naïveté</i> -in themselves sufficient to captivate the most fastidious -reader. Modesty and truthfulness peeped from every -sentence. Its author claimed no praise, no admiration, -beyond that due to him for having done his duty. He -took to himself no credit for all the virtues he had -shown. So afraid was he indeed that he might be -charged with being the author of what are called -“travellers’ tales,” that he deliberately suppressed -several remarkable adventures. On this point he said -to Sir Walter Scott, “that in all cases where he had -information to communicate which he thought of importance -to the public, he had stated the facts boldly, -leaving it to his readers to give such credit to his -statements as they might appear justly to deserve, but -that he would not shock their credulity or render his -travels more marvellous by introducing circumstances -which, however true, were of little or no moment.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> - -<p>Happily his narrative required no aid from such suppressed -adventures, however strange they might be, or -however much we should have liked to know them. -He had incident enough to make half-a-dozen of the -spun out books of modern travel. Neither then nor -since has any African explorer had such a romantic -tale to tell, nor has any out of all the long list of -adventurers who have followed told his tale so well. -Some there have been who have flourished more theatrically -across the African stage, and by virtue of -striking dramatic effects, and a certain spice of bloodshed, -have struck the imagination of those who are -content with the superficial show of things, and are -not too critical as to their significance. But for -actual hardships undergone, for dangers faced, and -difficulties overcome, together with an exhibition of the -virtues which make a man great in the rude battle of -life, Mungo Park stands without a rival. In one respect -only—that of motive—does another surpass him. -Here Livingstone stands head and shoulders above his -predecessor, whose aspirations after personal name and -fame, and apathetic attitude towards the anti-slavery -movement, will ill bear comparison with the noble -longings which inspired the great missionary to travel, -that the negro heathen might be brought within the -pale of Christian brotherhood, and stirred him to the -consecration of his life in healing “the great open sore -of the Universe.”</p> - -<p>Not that Park was altogether awanting in all that -tends towards the spirit of self-sacrifice. On the contrary, -throughout his whole narrative we fail to find -the faintest trace of vulgar ambition or ignoble self-seeking. -He deliberately suppressed incidents which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> -would have added greatly to his fame, especially among -those whose imagination is only appealed to by the -marvellous. His whole nature shrank from notoriety. -He was retired and reserved in manner, and instead of -seeking to play the <i>rôle</i> of the “lion” in society, we find -that he always looked forward to a time when, his labours -ended, he should be able to seek the seclusion and retirement -of the country—scarcely the goal this of a merely -selfish ambition.</p> - -<p>As little was he actuated by the desire of gain, as -Ruskin would have us believe. Except perhaps in one -conspicuous instance, African travel has never been -known to lead to the attainment of riches, and certainly -to Park money was never held out as an inducement. -The spark that quickened his manhood to -heroism, and fired him “to scorn delights and live -laborious days,” was the worthy ambition of a noble -mind to work for the good of his country and the -advancement of knowledge, rewarded solely by the -approbation of his own conscience and the esteem of -good men.</p> - -<p>It is to be remembered that a hundred years ago -Christian philanthropy had not become so cosmopolitan—so -world-embracing—as to take within its sphere all -who bear the name of man, without respect of race, -religion, or degree of civilisation. From what we know -of his intense religious convictions and kindly nature, -Park, had he lived at the present day, would probably -have been a missionary aflame for the cause of Christ -and ready to lay down his life for it, or a traveller -preaching a crusade, not only against the slave trade, -which is so often ignorantly ascribed to the influence -of Islam, but against the gin trade likewise, which with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> -quite as much plausibility might be associated with -Christianity.</p> - -<p>At the period of the publication of Park’s narrative -the question of Abolition was in every man’s mind. -The horrors of the middle passage—the iniquities perpetrated -in the plantations by men calling themselves -Englishmen—were being painted in colours by no means -too dark. Park’s book came opportunely to add to the -literature of the subject, and undoubtedly, in spite of -the anti-abolition opinions he was believed to hold, the -facts he disclosed regarding the horrors of the slave -route added materially to the arguments of the Abolitionists. -Coming, indeed, as was believed, from one of -the opposite party, they were of all the more value, the -natural assumption being that the worst aspects had -been softened down and as good a case made out for -slavery as was possible without direct violation of the -truth. It was abundantly clear to all unprejudiced -minds that the conditions under which the trade was -carried on, and the evil results flowing from it as described -by Park, were iniquitous and shameful in the -extreme. To such Park’s opinions were of small account -compared with his facts, and we may safely conclude -that these latter very materially contributed to the -sweeping away of the vile traffic.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>MUNGO PARK AT HOME—(Continued).</i></span></h2> - -<p>After the publication of his narrative there was nothing -to detain Park longer in London, while there was much -to attract him to Scotland. Accordingly he returned to -Foulshiels in the summer of 1799.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd of August of that year he was married -to Miss Anderson. Of the personality of this lady we -know little beyond the simple facts that she was tall -and handsome, amiable in disposition, with no special -mental endowments, and if anything somewhat frivolous -and pleasure-loving—characteristics very unlike what -we should have expected in the wife of such a man as -Park.</p> - -<p>In personal appearance the young explorer must have -been quite a match for his wife. The portrait of him -which has come down to us shows a head of noble proportions. -The fine brow speaks of his mental powers; -the prominent, finely chiselled nose, firm, well-shaped -mouth, and powerful jaws, indicate the iron will and -marked individuality which he showed himself to possess. -No less striking and attractive are the eyes, which -look forth so calmly, aglow with truthfulness, self-possession, -and confidence. In person he was tall, reaching -quite six feet, and exceedingly well proportioned. His -whole appearance was prepossessing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p> - -<p>It is impossible to say what were Park’s plans for his -future life when he took to himself a wife. Probably -they were but ill-defined even to himself. It may be -safely concluded, however, that he had then no intention -of returning to Africa. All the horrors of his recent -experiences were still too strongly upon him to make -the idea of a new journey welcome. Moreover, the after -penalty of those months of starvation and atrocious -fare had still to be paid by inveterate dyspepsia and its -concomitant evils of gloom and despondency. While -under its influence his sleep was much broken, and too -often night was made one hideous nightmare by dreams -of being back once more in captivity among the Moors -of Ludamar, and subjected to the old tortures and -indignities.</p> - -<p>Probably, therefore, when he married, he did so in -the belief that there would be no occasion for separation—no -likelihood of his ever entering upon any engagements -which should make him unable to fulfil his duty to his -wife as a loving, ever-present protector and support.</p> - -<p>At no time does Park ever seem to have been enamoured -of his profession, and after the life he had -recently led he felt a repugnance to settling down to -its uncongenial routine.</p> - -<p>For the moment, however, he did not feel called upon -to come to an immediate decision as to his future work -in life. The liberal remuneration which he had received -from the African Association, together with the profits -of his book, had placed him for the time being in easy -circumstances. He could therefore afford to wait to -see what might turn up. He had become well known. -He had powerful friends. There was accordingly every -likelihood that something congenial would be found for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> -him. Meanwhile he resolved to settle down quietly at -Foulshiels.</p> - -<p>At this period his mother was still alive, and the -farm was worked by one of his brothers. Most of the -family had done well. One sister, as we have already -seen, had married Mr. Dickson, who had risen both to -moderate affluence and to considerable fame as a botanist. -Another had found a husband in a well-to-do farmer -in the neighbourhood. His brother Adam had gone -through the same course as himself, and had become -established as a doctor in Gravesend; while a second -brother, Alexander, had been made under-sheriff for the -county, the sheriff-principal being Sir Walter Scott.</p> - -<p>Of this brother Scott himself gives us a sketch in -his introduction to the “Lady of the Lake,” when recalling -his doubts of the poem’s success:—</p> - -<p>“I remember that about the same time a friend -(Arch. Park) started in to ‘heeze up my hope,’ like the -sportsman with his cutty gun in the old song. He was -bred a farmer, but a man of powerful understanding, -natural good taste, and warm poetical feeling, perfectly -competent to supply the wants of an imperfect or irregular -education. He was a passionate admirer of field -sports, which we often pursued together.” And then -Scott goes on to tell how he was in the habit of reading -the poem to him to experiment as to the effect produced -on one who was “but too favourable a representative of -readers at large.” Archibald Park remained in Scott’s -employment for many years, and was frequently his -companion in his mountain rides.</p> - -<p>In 1799, the Government made certain proposals to -Park relative to his going out in some official capacity -to New South Wales. Of this, however, nothing came,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> -though whether the fault lay with the Government or -with the explorer is not known.</p> - -<p>The natural consequences of idleness to a man of -Park’s personality and past life soon became apparent. -With a wife of no particular depth of character and -no special mental attainments, however attractive and -amiable she might otherwise be, there could be but -small absorption of his thoughts. With no other -society, and no work to keep him occupied, there could -be but one result—restlessness and revolt against the -position in which he found himself, and the gradual -upgrowth of the old longings and ideas—the irrepressible -fever of travel. Coincidently he began to forget -the hardships and dangers he had experienced, and as -they grew less and less vivid, and gradually dropped -into the background of his memory, the fascination of -discovery, of travel in strange lands and among strange -peoples—the wish to settle the unsolved mystery of the -Niger—began anew to assert their power and possess -him with ever-growing force.</p> - -<p>For the time the African Association was resting on -their oars as far as prosecuting their work from West -Africa was concerned, though in 1798 Horneman had -been despatched to penetrate to the Sudan from Egypt.</p> - -<p>No doubt this was partly due to the enormous difficulties -and ever present dangers which Park had described, -partly also perhaps on account of the war then being -waged with France.</p> - -<p>In 1800 Goree had been captured, an event which -inspired Park to write (July 31, 1800) to Sir Joseph -Banks, pointing out its importance in relation to renewed -attempts to penetrate the interior of the Continent. -After describing his views on the subject, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> -adds—“If such are the views of Government, I hope that -my exertions in some station or other may be of use to -my country.”</p> - -<p>In 1801 the negotiations with the Government relative -to the New South Wales mission were resumed. -A visit to London was found necessary for a satisfactory -discussion of the matter, and accordingly we find Park -in the metropolis in the early spring.</p> - -<p>How deep and tender was his affection for his winsome -wife is shown in a letter written to her during the -visit—one of the few glimpses that have come down to us -of the more private side of the explorer’s character.</p> - -<p>The letter is dated March 12th, 1801, and is as -follows:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">My lovely Ailie</span>,—Nothing gives me more pleasure -than to write to you, and the reason why I delayed it a -day last time was to get some money to send to you. -You say you are wishing to spend a note upon yourself. -My sweet Ailie, you may be sure I approve of it. What -is mine is yours, and I receive much pleasure from your -goodness in consulting me about such a trifle. I wish I -had thousands to give you, but I know that my Ailie -will be contented with what we have, and we shall live -in the hope of seeing better days. I long very much to -be with you, my love, and I was in great hopes of having -things settled before now, but Sir Joseph (Banks) is ill, -and I can do nothing till he recovers.</p> - -<p>“I am happy to know you will go to New South -Wales with me, my sweet wife. You are everything -that I could desire; and wherever we go, you may be -sure of one thing, that I shall always love you. Whenever -I have fixed on this or any other situation I shall<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> -write to you. In the meantime, let nobody know till -things are settled, as there is much between the cup and -the lip.</p> - -<p>“My lovely Ailie, you are constantly in my thoughts. -I am tired of this place, but cannot lose the present -opportunity of doing something for our advantage. -When that is accomplished I shall not lose one moment. -My darling, when we meet I shall be the happiest man -on earth. Write soon, for I count the days till I hear -from you, my lovely Ailie.”</p></blockquote> - -<p>Again the negotiations with the Government fell -through, and there was nothing for it but for Park -to return once more to Foulshiels disappointed and discouraged, -but possessed more than ever by the fever of -unrest—more and more under the influence of the Niger -magnet—against which the sole counteracting forces -were love for his wife, the dread of being separated -from her, and his duty as a husband.</p> - -<p>It was in this not very suitable mood that he was -forced to face the fact that he must no longer depend -on the vague hope of finding a congenial opening, but -must put his hand to something, however alien to his -tastes and aspirations. For a time he thought of taking -a farm, but at last reluctantly came to the conclusion -that his best course would be to resume his profession -as a doctor. An opening presented itself in the neighbouring -town of Peebles, where he went to reside in -the month of October, occupying a house at the head -of the Brygate, while his surgery was a small projecting -building—since demolished—east from the first -Chambers’ Institute. In a lane behind was his humble -laboratory.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span></p><div class="center"> -<img id="i_201" src="images/i_201.png" width="600" height="384" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">EXTRACT OF MUNGO PARK’S LETTER TO HIS WIFE.</p></div> - -<p>Park threw himself into his work with characteristic -energy and thoroughness, and speedily won for himself -a fair share of the practice of the town and country. -The profits, however, were of the poorest, and the work -of the hardest—so much so, indeed, that he once said to -Scott he “would rather brave Africa and all its horrors -than wear out his life in long and toilsome rides over -cold and lonely heaths and gloomy hills, assailed by the -wintry tempest, for which the remuneration was hardly -enough to keep soul and body together.”</p> - -<p>On the strength of this reported offhand remark, -Ruskin, without troubling to inquire further into the -history of the man, has formulated the following indictment. -This “terrific” sentence, he says, “signifies, if -you look into it, almost total absence of the instinct of -personal duty—total absence of belief in the God who -chose for him his cottage birthplace and set him his -life task beside it; absolute want of interest in his profession, -of sense for natural beauty, and of compassion -for the noblest poor of his native land. And with these -absences there is the clearest evidence of the fatalist of -the vices, Avarice—in the exact form in which it was -the ruin of Scott himself—the love of money for the -sake of worldly position.”</p> - -<p>Never was more sweeping accusation founded on -more slender data. Practically, Park is charged with -absence of a belief in God, and of a sense of duty to -his fellows, because he finds his profession toilsome and -uncongenial.</p> - -<p>The argument seems to be that the man is an atheist -and a sinner against society who is not content to -remain in the sphere in which he was born, and in -which accordingly his life task is divinely set.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span></p> - -<p>Were such a position tenable, it is difficult to see how -any progress, either personal or social, would be possible. -From it, in the present instance, would naturally -follow that Park was as little to be justified in choosing -to be a doctor rather than a peasant farmer, as in preferring -to be an explorer rather than either.</p> - -<p>What Ruskin takes exception to, however, is not -Park’s choosing a profession, but that the choice once -made, he should seek to abandon it. But if it were -permissible to him as a youth, ignorant alike of himself, -the world, and the profession he was about to enter, -to choose, surely it was equally permissible that as a -man, with some knowledge of all three, he should withdraw -in favour of the work to which he knew himself -adapted. The instinct and capacities which fitted him -for an explorer were as divinely implanted as his birthplace -had been divinely appointed. Moreover, those -“noblest poor of his native land,” to whom Ruskin so -pathetically refers, were not alone dependent on Park -for medical aid—a circumstance which would have lent -another colour to his final resolve to forsake them. -Doctors there were in plenty, alike able and willing to -serve them; but there was but one Mungo Park—but -one man, as far as was known, who by his special gifts -and wide experience was suited for the peculiar and -arduous work of African exploration. Upon him then -it devolved, with all the sacrednesss of a divinely appointed -mission, as indeed he deemed it, and accepted it -accordingly, to the exclusion of all narrower obligations.</p> - -<p>There still remains the charge of Avarice, based on -Park’s simple statement that his “unceasing toil was -hardly sufficient to keep soul and body together.” Is -then the physician less entitled than say the author<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> -to a just remuneration for his services, or does Ruskin -share the not uncommon popular delusion that though -butchers’ and bakers’ bills demand immediate attention, -the payment of the doctor’s is to be regarded as -optional, or subject to the convenience of the patient. -Neither supposition is to be entertained for a moment. -Indeed the charge rests upon too flimsy a foundation -ever to be taken seriously by any unprejudiced mind, -and we can only regretfully wonder what could have -induced Mr. Ruskin so far to forget the Justice and -Charity he is so fond of preaching as to bring it forward.</p> - -<p>Beyond the record of “unceasing toil” little is known -of how Park spent the time he was resident in Peebles. -The town itself is described as being in those days -“quiet as the grave”—a reputation it still maintains, -judging from the innuendo in the ironical phrase, -“Peebles for pleasure!”</p> - -<p>To Park, however, the absence of the brighter aspect -of life was a small matter. Society had but little attraction -for him, and his was the severe Scottish nature -which avoided as almost sinful anything bordering upon -frivolous pleasure. From all lionising and the silly -questioning of the ignorant and the impertinently -curious he had a natural shrinking, though at any time -delighted to talk of his travels and of matters African -with the intelligent and the well-informed. Quiet and -seclusion were, however, more to his mind, and were -to be enjoyed to the full in the peaceful little town. -Such society as he wanted he had in his own domestic -circle, beyond which he was happy in the intimacy -which sprang up between him and two distinguished -residents—Colonel John Murray of Kringaltie and Dr. -Adam Ferguson, formerly Professor of Moral Philosophy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> -in Edinburgh, and author of several well-known works. -Toilsome and monotonous as was his professional life, -it was not without its brighter and more humorous side, -as witness the following story told by Dr. Anderson, -the nephew of Park’s wife:—</p> - -<p>“One wild night in winter Park lost his way, till -discovering a light, he directed his horse towards it, and -found himself before a shepherd’s cottage. It so happened -that the Doctor arrived there in the nick of time, -for the shepherd’s wife was on the point of confinement. -He waited till all was safely over, and next morning -the shepherd escorted him to where he could see the -distant road. Park, noticing his conductor lag behind, -asked him the reason, on which the simple or humorous -man replied, ‘’Deed, sir, my wife said she was sure you -must be an angel, and I think sae tae; so I am just -keepin’ ahint to be sure I’ll see you flee up.’”</p> - -<p>As time went on, Park’s longing to return to Africa -grew ever more intense, nourished as it was by hopes -from time to time held out to him. Barely, for instance, -had he settled down to life in Peebles, when he -received a letter from Sir Joseph Banks, acquainting -him that in consequence of the Peace (then recently -signed with France), the Association intended to revive -their project of sending a mission to Africa in -order to penetrate to and navigate the Niger. If -Government took up the matter, Park would certainly -be recommended as the person proper to be employed -for carrying it into execution. As with previous projects, -however, nothing came of it for the time being, -though it continued to be talked about more or less -during the next two years.</p> - -<p>In the autumn of 1803 he was desired by the Colonial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> -Office to repair without delay to London. This summons -he promptly obeyed. On his arrival he had an interview -with the Earl of Buckingham, the Secretary for -the Colonies, who informed him that the Government -had resolved on fitting out an expedition to Africa, of -which he was to have the command, if he was willing to -take it. It was exactly what he wanted—exactly what -he had been impatiently awaiting for three years; but -nevertheless he asked for a short time to think the -matter over and consult his friends. The favour was -granted, and he returned to Scotland. The consultations -referred to being for the most part a mere formality, -in a few days his acceptance was forwarded to -London, whither he followed immediately after arranging -his affairs and taking leave of his family.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span></p><div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_207_large.png"><img id="i_207" src="images/i_207.png" width="600" height="446" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">REDUCED FAC-SIMILE OF MUNGO PARK’S AUTOGRAPH MAP.</p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>PREPARING FOR A NEW EXPEDITION.</i></span></h2> - -<p>In this as in his earlier expedition, Park was dogged by -his usual ill-luck.</p> - -<p>Disappointment met him at the very outset.</p> - -<p>He had left Scotland in the belief that almost every -arrangement had been made, and that a very short time -would suffice to complete the necessary preparations.</p> - -<p>He arrived in London only to hear that the departure -of the expedition had been postponed till the end -of February 1804. With what patience he possessed -he waited. The allotted time went by. Once more -everything was ready. Part of the troops destined for -the service were actually on board ship, when orders -came countermanding the expedition, pending the decision -of Lord Camden, the new Colonial Secretary, as to -whether it should go at all or not.</p> - -<p>Park was naturally bitterly disappointed at thus being -thrown again on the seas of uncertainty. The expedition -might now never set out, and the task of solving the -great African problem would be reserved for another.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile the date of departure was provisionally -put off till September, and till then he was recommended -to return to Scotland and occupy the interval -in perfecting himself in taking astronomical observations -and in learning Arabic—acquirements which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> -would be of the utmost importance to him afterwards.</p> - -<p>A suitable teacher of Arabic was found in one Sidi -Ambak Bubi, a native of Mogador, and then residing in -London. Accompanied by the Moor, Park returned to -Peebles in March. Here he remained till May, when he -finally quitted that town and took up his residence at -Foulshiels while awaiting the decision of the Colonial -Office.</p> - -<p>It was at this time that the great traveller came in -contact with his still greater countryman and neighbour, -Sir Walter Scott, then living at Ashesteil, and separated -from Foulshiels only by the sharp ridge of hills -which divides the Yarrow from the Tweed.</p> - -<p>Between two such men—the one absorbed in a career -of prospective action in a new continent, the other revelling -in a romantic world of retrospective thought—it -might be supposed there was little in common.</p> - -<p>In reality there was much. Scott, though he delighted -to sing of the past and conjure up its knightly deeds, -had a soul capable of appreciating all forms of glorious -and adventurous enterprise, whether seen in the prosaic -lights of the passing moment, or invested with the -romantic vagueness and fascinating glamour which the -shades of time gather around bygone days. To such an -one Park was a man after his own heart. Had but his -deeds been surrounded with the pomp and circumstance -which glorified those of the knights of old, Scott might -have sung them in a similar heroic strain. Mayhap -the day will come when another Scott will arise to -do for Park and his successors what Sir Walter and -others have done for the heroic figures of our nation’s -history.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the other hand, Park, imbued as he likewise was -with the romantic instinct, could not fail to be attracted -by Scott’s peculiar genius. Moreover, both were Scotchmen, -both Borderers, and both alike were passionate -lovers of the minstrelsy, tales, traditions, and ballads of -their native country. The ballads especially were dear -to Park, and he tells how, in his last expedition, one of -his followers used “to beguile the watches of the night -with the songs of our dear native land.”</p> - -<p>But whatever were the links which drew these two -famous men together, they were sufficient speedily to -develop a very warm and cordial friendship, and visits -were frequently interchanged across the heathery hills -which separated them. On one of these occasions Scott -discovered Park sitting alone beside the noisy Yarrow, -employed in the apparently idle and boyish amusement -of throwing stones into the river and anxiously watching -the bubbles as they rose to the surface. On being asked -what interest he found in such a pastime, Park replied -that he was thus in the habit of ascertaining the depth -of rivers in Africa before venturing to cross them—the -time taken by the bubbles to rise being an indication of -the depth.</p> - -<p>Early in September came the long expected summons -to repair to London, and Park lost no time in settling -his affairs preparatory to leaving home. Among others, -he paid a farewell visit to Sir Walter Scott at Ashesteil, -where he spent the night. Next morning his host -accompanied him on his way to Foulshiels. The path -lay up the Glenkinnen to Williamhope, whence it continued -over the ridge and passed between the Brown -Knowe and the humpy elevation of the Broomy Law. -As they passed from the birchen slopes of Glenkinnen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> -into the heather and grass-clad zones above, Park talked -much of his plans of exploration, and the results that -would accrue to science and commerce should he prove -successful.</p> - -<p>Under other conditions the panorama which slowly -unfolds itself with the ascent of the hill would have been -sufficient to draw even Park’s thoughts from Africa and -the Niger. The various glens and valleys of the Tweed, -the Gala, the Yarrow, and the Ettrick divide the land -into a picturesque succession of winding ridges, isolated -hills, and rounded mountain tops, where wood, heather, -and grass give variety of colour to the higher levels, -while below waving crops and busy harvest-fields, ruined -castle and noble mansion, humble cottage and straggling -village, with glancing bits of stream and river, flocks of -sheep and scattered herds of cattle, combine to produce -the softer effects of “cultivated nature.”</p> - -<p>But on this day of leave-taking a leaden-coloured mist -hung over hill and valley, hiding their every feature. -Only now and again did the breeze lift a corner of the -enshrouding veil and give a momentary glimpse, vague -and fleeting, of glen and hill-top. As they talked of -the coming journey Scott seemed to see in the vaguely -defined landscape an emblem of his friend’s prospects, -where all was problematic, uncertain—the path beset -with unknown dangers and pitfalls, nothing sure save -the presence of surrounding perils which might neither -be foreseen nor prepared for. In this ignorance as regards -the exact nature of the dangers to be faced lies -one of the chief difficulties and terrors of travel in unexplored -savage lands. All the traveller does know is -that dangers in various forms will most assuredly confront -him, and he must depend upon his presence of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> -mind and readiness of resource at the moment to avoid -or repel them.</p> - -<p>But Park was not to be debarred from his enterprise -by any thought of the difficulties in the way. To all -that Scott could urge he had his answer. The idea of -solving the question of the Niger’s termination was one -which possessed him to the exclusion of all thoughts of -self. As well have asked him to renounce his belief in -the existence of God as expect him to give up his -cherished scheme.</p> - -<p>At last the glen of the Yarrow lay before them. At -the bottom could be hazily defined the “birchen bower,” -from which the stately tower of Newark and the humble -cottage of Foulshiels alike looked forth on the beautiful -murmurous stream.</p> - -<p>Here they must say good-bye. A ditch divided the -road from the moor, and in crossing it Park’s horse -stumbled and nearly fell. “I am afraid, Mungo,” said -Scott, “that is a bad omen.” “Freits” (<i>i.e.</i>, omens) -“follow those who look to them,” was the prompt reply; -and without another word Park rode away and disappeared -in the mist.</p> - -<p>It now only remained to Park to take farewell of his -wife. Brave as he was, the ordeal was more than he -dared face. Not that she had raised any objections to -his going, or put any barriers in the way. Seeing how -much her husband’s heart was in it, and not perhaps -without some natural womanly pride in being the wife -of a hero rather than of a nobody, she seems to have -accepted as a matter of course his determination to -avail himself of the chance of further distinction presented -by the proposed expedition. Still, the moment -of actual parting, with the prospect of at best a long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> -period of separation, would be agony. Even better than -his wife Park knew how many chances there were that -the separation might be final—that wife and children, -of whom there were now three, might never see him -again. Sanguine as he was of success, there were -moments when he could not but admit that the coming -enterprise looked very like a forlorn hope—moments, -too, when it became difficult for him to discern whether -his duty to humanity or to his family had the stronger -claim upon him.</p> - -<p>It was under the influence of some such feeling of -despondency that he finally resolved to spare both -himself and his wife the anguish of a parting scene, -and betaking himself to Edinburgh on the plea of -business, thence wrote to her his last farewell.</p> - -<p>On his arrival in London in September 1804, Park -presented a written statement to the Colonial Office -embodying his views as to the commercial and geographical -results likely to accrue from the intended -expedition, at the same time pointing out the best -means to accomplish the work as regards men and goods. -In this memorandum he pointed out the course he -proposed to pursue. Passing through Bondu, Kajaaga, -Fuladu, and Bambarra to Sego, he would construct a -boat and proceed by way of Jenné and Kabara (the port -of Timbuktu) through the kingdoms of Haussa, Nyffé -(now called Nupé), and Kashna, &c., to the kingdom of -Wangara. If the river ended here, he pointed out, -his chief difficulty would begin. To return by the -Niger, to cross the desert to Tripoli or Egypt, or to -pass eastward to the Nile and Abyssinia, he considered -equally difficult. The most feasible course seemed that -towards the Bight of Benin. If, however, the Niger<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> -was, as he confidently believed, in reality the Congo, -he would follow it to its termination. After pointing -out the grounds for his belief, Park concluded with the -opinion that when “your Lordship shall have duly -weighed the above reasons, you will be induced to conclude -that my hopes of returning by the Congo are not -altogether fanciful, and that the expedition, though -attended with extreme danger, promises to be productive -of the utmost advantage to Great Britain. -Considered in a commercial point of view, it is second -only to the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope, and -in a geographical point of view is certainly the greatest -discovery that remains to be made in the world”—a -very strong statement of the case, it must be admitted, -though undoubtedly if the Niger and the Congo had -proved to be one, it could scarcely have been said to -be too strong.</p> - -<p>Park had been converted to this view of the identity -of the two great rivers by one George Maxwell, a West -African trader, who had seen much of the Congo near -its mouth, and had published a chart embodying the -results of his observations. When closely examined, the -arguments in its favour were of small value, and practically -arose out of the fact that there was a large river -with a southerly trend whose termination was unknown, -while further south there was a second, the Congo, -whose origin was equally a mystery. Prolong these in -the necessary direction and the result is identity, and -the mystery of both is settled.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile Major Rennell stuck to his view with all -the pertinacity of the arm-chair geographer, and the -man of one idea. For him the Niger ended in the -desert wastes of Wangara and Ghana. Unfortunately<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> -for his theory the Major was unconsciously confounding -two Wangaras separated from each other by fifteen -hundred miles and more, and likewise the old Empire of -Ghana on the middle course of the Niger with Kano at -the eastern extremity of the Haussa States. A similar -confusion also appears in Park’s memorandum, where -he speaks of the continuation of the river after Nupé to -Kashna (Katsina) and the kingdom of Wangara.</p> - -<p>Strange indeed it seems to us now that no geographer -even at this time ever suggested that the outlet of -the Niger might be in the Bight of Benin, among the -numerous creeks that penetrate the low swampy mangrove -ground which here subtends the Bight. Looking -at the map, the suggestion seems to us to come naturally, -yet Park had to carry the course of the river away -south to the Congo; Rennell turned it west, and ended -it where our maps are now occupied by Lake Chad, -while there were not wanting others, like Jackson, who -persisted in joining it to the Nile, “en abusant, pour -ainsi dire, du vaste carrière que l’intérieur de l’Afrique -y laissait prendre,” as D’Anville had said of earlier -geographers.</p> - -<p>Whatever we may now think of Park’s theories as to -the termination of the Niger, they did not appear in -any way absurd in his own time. The wildest conjecture -was permissible as regards a vast river flowing -by an uncertain course through a continent still blank -on our maps. Accordingly his memorandum was received -favourably by Lord Camden, and the despatch -of the expedition to carry out the traveller’s ideas was -determined on.</p> - -<p>A liberal compensation was to be given to Park on -his return, and it was also stipulated that in the event<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> -of his death, or of his not being heard of within a given -period, a certain sum should be paid by Government as -a provision for his wife and family.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile Rennell, in the most friendly fashion, not -only argued against Park’s views as to the Niger termination, -but earnestly advised him to relinquish his dangerous -project. With as little effect in the one case as -in the other, however. The explorer’s determination, -like his opinions, was not to be shaken. Sir Joseph -Banks took up a more philosophic position. He admitted -the hazardous nature of the enterprise; but -since the work was not to be accomplished without -risk of life, he could not attempt to dissuade Park from -it, he being the man most likely to carry it through -with least danger of a fatal issue.</p> - -<p>Gradually the affairs of the expedition began to take -shape. Dr. Alexander Anderson, Park’s young brother-in-law, -was selected as his second in command, and Mr. -George Scott, a fellow-dalesman, was added to the party -as draughtsman. A few boat-builders and artificers were -also to accompany the party from England, for the purpose -of constructing the boat intended for the navigation -of the Niger when it was reached. Soldiers to -assist and protect the expedition were to be selected -at Goree, where a garrison of the African corps was -stationed.</p> - -<p>It was now a matter of paramount importance that -the expedition should leave England at once if it was -to take advantage of the dry season. But official -red-tape was as difficult to galvanise into activity and -life as African apathy, and in spite of his utmost -endeavours to push matters on, delay succeeded upon -delay, and Park saw the good season gradually dwindling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> -away, leaving him to the maddening contemplation of -all the additional difficulties and dangers engendered by -the rains. Two whole months were thus lost; and when -he at last received his official instructions, he knew that -the Government, by its continued procrastination, had -done much if not everything to ensure a disastrous -termination to the expedition.</p> - -<p>In the instructions supplied to him Park’s mission -was defined as being to discover whether and to what -extent commercial intercourse could be established in -the interior of Africa for the mutual benefit of the -natives and of His Majesty’s subjects. He was directed -to proceed up the Gambia, and thence to the banks of -the Niger by way of the Senegal. The special object of -his journey was to determine the course of the Niger, -and to establish communication with all the different -nations on its banks. He was at liberty to pursue -any return route which he might find most suitable, -either by turning west to the Atlantic, or by marching -upon Cairo.</p> - -<p>To carry out this great mission effectively, a captain’s -commission was bestowed on him, and that of a lieutenant -on Anderson. European soldiers to the number -of forty-five, and as many natives as he might deem -necessary, were to be selected at Goree, and a sufficient -number of donkeys at St. Jago. He was further -empowered to draw for any sum he might want not -exceeding £5000.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>PARK’S SECOND RETURN TO THE GAMBIA.</i></span></h2> - -<p>On the 31st January 1805, Park, with his companions -and four or five artificers, sailed from Portsmouth in the -<i>Crescent</i> transport for St. Jago, Cape Verde Islands.</p> - -<p>In crossing the Bay of Biscay they were considerably -detained by storms and contrary winds, so that it took -five weeks to reach their primary destination. From -St. Jago, where forty-four donkeys were purchased, they -proceeded to Goree, arriving at that station on the 21st -of March. Here the idea of an expedition to the Niger -was received with such enthusiasm by officers and men -alike that the entire garrison was ready to join—the -officers for the adventure and honour of the thing, the -men for the increased pay and promised discharge on -their return.</p> - -<p>One officer, Lieutenant Martyn, was selected, and -with him thirty-five privates and two seamen.</p> - -<p>Park’s idea of taking with him a considerable number -of European artisans and soldiers must be considered -one of the greatest blunders he ever made. A moment’s -thought should surely have told him that he ran a -terrible risk of speedily losing the greater number by -death, and that through sickness the majority of those -who kept alive would be more a hindrance than a help -to him. He should have known that these ignorant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> -men were not as he himself seemed to be—rendered disease -and privation proof by the determination to achieve -a certain great object. Against all forms of death, save -death by violence, his <i>will</i> was to him a magic mail. -With his men it was different. Ignorant of what was -before them—incapable of comprehending it even had -it been told—they only saw in the enterprise a certain -freedom from irksome garrison restrictions and military -discipline, increased pay, and the prospect of early discharge. -To all else they were blind.</p> - -<p>Brought face to face with hourly dangers, privations, -and incessant toil, they quickly realised their mistake. -Everything was forgotten save the present physical -suffering. Sick and dispirited, what was the question -of the Niger’s course to them? A mere name, without -power to fire their imagination or inspire their enthusiasm. -How insignificant, too, appeared the material -recompense. Thus with nothing to buoy them up, -nothing to lure them on and keep them from magnifying -and dwelling on their troubles, there could be -nothing but apathy—with apathy, despondency, and -finally death. This has been the history, more or less, -of nearly all African expeditions in which ignorant -European men have been employed, tempted to join -merely for pay or other considerations of a personal -character. In proportion as the members of an expedition -have been inspired by its ultimate objects, they -have lived to see it through, because in that proportion -they have given less attention to their hardships and -sicknesses. The less they have thought of themselves, -and the more their minds have been centred on their -work, the better have been their chances of pulling -through.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span></p> - -<p>But though all the whites of the Goree garrison were -willing to accompany Park, not one of the negroes of -the place could be induced to join, and he therefore had -to depend on getting such natives as he wanted on the -Gambia. He left Goree on the 6th of April, and reached -Kayi, on the Gambia, a few days later.</p> - -<p>The prospect now before him was anything but pleasant. -The rainy season, which he had such good grounds -to fear, was rapidly approaching. There were but two -alternatives—either to wait till the next dry season -before starting, or go on and face the worst—the fevers, -the rains, the marshes, the flooded rivers, and all the -other accompaniments of the wet season. These must -undoubtedly produce much sickness, probably many -deaths, innumerable exasperating delays, and other -troubles—must increase, in fact, by a hundredfold the -perils and trials of the expedition. On the other hand, -to wait would mean a delay of seven months—seven -months of inaction, of intolerable fretting at the very -threshold of the enterprise. The idea was out of the -question. Besides, men, animals, and goods were ready -for the road, and the Government expected them to -proceed forthwith. A delay of the kind had not been -foreseen, and had not been provided for in Park’s instructions. -Of the two evils, therefore, he chose the one -which was most in harmony with his own eager spirit, -determining to risk all and start forthwith. Having -once made up his mind, he put aside all fears and apprehensions, -and would allow nothing to damp his sanguine -hopes. In this spirit he wrote to Dickson:—“Everything -at present looks as favourable as I could wish, -and if all things go well this day six weeks I expect to -drink all your healths in the water of the Niger. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> -soldiers are in good health and spirits. They are the -most <i>dashing</i> men I ever saw, and if they preserve their -health we may keep ourselves perfectly secure from any -hostile attempt on the part of the natives. I have little -doubt but that I shall be able, with presents and fair -words, to pass through the country to the Niger, and if -once we are afloat the day is won.”</p> - -<p>We can easily believe that Park in this letter does -not give a faithful indication of his real position at the -moment of writing. He may have expressed his hopes -truly enough, but he carefully avoids showing the fears -which went side by side with them. What exact significance -the term “dashing,” as applied to his soldiers, -bears in relation to their qualities as members of an -African expedition, might be a matter of discussion; -but while we have every reason to believe they were -the best the garrison could supply, it must also be -remembered that the African corps was the residuum -of the British army at a time when it was the chief -resort of the rascaldom of the country. A residence, -however short, in a West African garrison, could have -improved neither their physique, their morals, nor their -discipline, and certainly was not calculated to fit them -for one of the most dangerous and trying enterprises -any man could enter upon, and requiring moral and -physical qualities which only the very few possess.</p> - -<p>To his error in taking with him such a large party of -Europeans, Park added an even worse mistake, and one -for which less excuse can be found. Nowhere in his -diary do we find a single reference to his having any -native followers to do the common drudgery of the -camp and the road. This was a want of foresight -which appears almost incredible in one who knew what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> -was before him, and the results which followed when -all the men fell sick were disastrous beyond description.</p> - -<p>Thus, then, to the extreme perils and hardships -which attend an African expedition at all times, Park -added a start at the worst possible time of the year, -and with the worst possible selection of men. What -came of it the following pages will show.</p> - -<p>On the 27th of April 1805, all was ready for the -march. The initial point was Kayi, on the river -Gambia, a few miles below Pisania, the place from -which Park started on his first expedition. How -different were his preparations for this new attempt. -In the former he had left for the interior attended by -a man and a boy—a single donkey carrying all the goods -and stores he required. This time he was provided with -forty-four Europeans, and a large quantity of baggage -of all kinds, transported by as many donkeys as there -were men. As already said, we find no allusion in his -letters or journals to his having any native attendants, -though possibly there might have been one or two -as personal servants. Isaaco, a Mandingo priest and -merchant, had been engaged to act as guide, and he it -seems was accompanied by several of his own people.</p> - -<p>Under cover of a salute from the <i>Crescent</i> and other -vessels gathered on the river, the caravan filed out of -Kayi, and took the road for the interior—each man, -according to his temperament, aspirations, and education, -filled with varied emotions of hope and fear, at -once attracted and repelled by the vague unknown -which lay before him.</p> - -<p>The troubles and worries attendant on leading a large -caravan in Africa became only too soon apparent. The -day was extremely hot. Under the influence of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> -overpowering temperature the overloaded donkeys lay -down and refused to proceed, while others, resenting -the imposition of any burden, did what they could to -kick themselves free, thus giving an infinite amount of -trouble to their drivers.</p> - -<p>The men themselves, fresh from the relaxing life and -coarse debaucheries of a West African garrison, soon -began to give in as well as their donkeys, so that before -long the caravan, from being a continuous line, was -broken into detached groups and isolated individuals -resting here, struggling on there. Finally the party -got completely divided, some under Lieutenant Martyn -taking one way, and the rest with Park another. Towards -evening they again became united, and reached -a suitable camping ground thoroughly fatigued by their -first march. Next day Pisania was reached, and here -a halt became necessary to make some final preparations -and purchase eight more donkeys.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of May the journey was resumed. The -caravan was divided into six messes, each with its due -proportion of animals marked for easy identification. -Scott and one of Isaaco’s men led the way, Martyn took -charge of the centre body, while Anderson and Park -brought up the rear. Even with the additional beasts -of burden there was a repetition of the troubles which -marked the first march—troubles which became each -day more harassing with the failing strength of the -donkeys and the sickness which after a time developed -among their drivers. The leaders were each provided -with horses for riding, but in a very short time they -had to take to their feet, that their animals might be -utilised for the transport of loads belonging to broken-down -donkeys. A few days more and this likewise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> -proved insufficient, and both new donkeys and new -drivers had to be hired.</p> - -<p>By the fourth day from Pisania two soldiers were -attacked by dysentery, and a further addition to the -strength of the caravan was found necessary. In a -week the expedition reached Medina, the capital of -Wuli, without special mishap, but with ever growing -worries for its leader.</p> - -<p>The keen eye to business so characteristic of negro -races was well shown by the women of Bambaku, who, -on hearing of the coming of the white men, drew all -the water out of the wells in the hope of forcing the -strangers to buy it at a high price in beads and other -gauds dear to the negro heart. In this, however, they -were outwitted by the soldiers, and they had the inexpressible -mortification of seeing twenty-four hours’ -labour utterly lost, and the beads as unattainable as -ever.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile the report of the passage of a rich caravan -conducted by many Europeans spread like wildfire, -gaining in exaggeration with every mile, and -putting all the robber bands and chiefs on the alert. -Preceded by such rumours it became necessary to -travel with great circumspection, and in constant -readiness for an attack. No one was allowed to lay -aside his gun. By way of invoking the aid of a -higher power than that of man, Isaaco, on entering -the reputedly dangerous woods of Simbani, laid a black -ram across the road, and after reciting a long prayer, -cut its throat as a sacrifice. These woods were alive -with hundreds of antelopes. The Gambia, where it -traversed them, was a hundred yards wide, and showed -a perceptible tide. On the sands were great numbers of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> -alligators, while the pools teemed with hippos. Viewed -from an eminence, the country towards the west appeared -abundantly rich and enchanting, the course of the -Gambia being traceable by its fringing lines of dark -green trees winding in serpentine curves seaward.</p> - -<p>At a place called Faraba, while unloading the animals -preparatory to camping, one of the soldiers fell down in -an epileptic fit, and expired in an hour. Here water -was only to be got by digging. During the night, as -they were in the wilderness, and liable to attack, double -sentries were posted round the camp, and every man -slept with his loaded musket beside him.</p> - -<p>Next morning the Neaulico stream, then nearly dry, -was passed, and on that and a succeeding night they -camped in the woods, the second occasion being at the -river Nerico.</p> - -<p>On the 18th the caravan entered Jallacotta, the first -town of Tenda.</p> - -<p>Two days later they met with an insolent reception -from the chief of the independent village of Bady, who -refused the caravan-tax sent him, and threatened war if -his exorbitant demands were not satisfied. Park tried -personally to arrange the dispute, but only met with -threats. The soldiers were at once ordered to be in -readiness for whatever might happen, while the chief -was told that nothing more would be given him, and -that if he would not allow their peaceable passage through -his district, another would be found. After many angry -words Park prepared to carry his resolution into effect, -but before the necessary preparations were completed, -Isaaco’s horse was seized by the Bady people. On the -owner going to demand its restitution, he himself was -laid hold of, deprived of his gun and sword, and then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> -tied to a tree and flogged. At the same time his boy -was put in irons.</p> - -<p>It was now dark, but prompt action was necessary. -Accordingly Park, with a detachment of soldiers, entered -the village to seize the robbers of the horse, intending -to hold them as hostages for the safe delivery of the -guide. This attempt naturally led to much uproar, -ending finally in blows, and the driving of all the chief’s -people out of the village. Isaaco, however, was nowhere -to be found, and Park was somewhat puzzled to -know what to do. It would of course have been easy -to burn down the village, but this would have entailed -death and ruin on many innocent persons, possibly -without producing the desired effect. Under the circumstances -it was deemed advisable to wait till daylight -before making an attack. This course proved to be -both wise and humane, for in the morning Isaaco was -liberated and his horse restored, so that eventually all -ended amicably.</p> - -<p>On the 24th of May much lightning was seen to the -south-east—ominous premonition of the approaching -rains. Of the party Park and Isaaco alone could realise -what those electric flashes betokened to the fortunes of -the expedition.</p> - -<p>Their way for the next three days lay through the -Tenda Wilderness—with all the hard marches, short -rations, and scant supplies of water which an uninhabited -district at the end of the dry season implies, -and which were hardly to be compensated by the exceeding -picturesqueness of the scenery.</p> - -<p>At the second camp in the wilderness an extraordinary -mishap befell them. A hive of bees was disturbed -by one of the men, with the result that they swarmed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> -out in angry myriads to attack the intruders. They set -upon man and beast alike, and in a twinkling had routed -every two-legged and four-footed thing in the camp. -The men threw down weapons—everything—and fled in -dismay, along with frantic braying donkeys. The horses -similarly broke loose, and galloped to the woods in a -panic. Meanwhile the fires which had been kindled, -being thus left unattended, speedily began to spread -to the surrounding dry grass and bamboos. When -Park and his companions had time to look round, -they discovered to their dismay that the whole camp -was on fire, and menaced by absolute and irretrievable -ruin.</p> - -<p>Forgetful of all else before such an appalling danger -to the expedition, those who had suffered least from the -furious bees rushed back to save what they could. -Happily not too late. Before the goods were reached -by the fire, Park and some of the men were ready to -receive the enemy, and eventually succeeded in extinguishing -it.</p> - -<p>The impending conflagration over, the horses and -donkeys were with difficulty collected from the woods, -many of them terribly stung and swollen about the head. -Three animals, besides Isaaco’s horse, disappeared altogether. -One donkey died that evening, another next -morning, and a third had to be abandoned, so vicious -and deadly had been the bees’ onslaught.</p> - -<p>Many curious superstitions were noticed by Park <i>en -route</i> through Wuli and Tenda. At one place death -was believed to be the portion of any one who slept -under a particular tree; at another, the fish in the -river must not be caught, else the water would dry -up entirely; while at a third, any traveller who would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> -assure himself of a safe journey, must lift and turn -round a particular stone.</p> - -<p>At Julifunda the chief made exorbitant demands on -the caravan, threatening to attack them in the woods if -these were not complied with. Park’s resolute attitude, -however, combined with an addition to his first present, -brought the quarrel to an amicable conclusion, and he -was permitted to continue his route unmolested.</p> - -<p>The expedition had now reached the eastern confines -of the Gambia basin, and writing home to his wife, Park -reviewed his situation as follows:—</p> - -<p>“We are half through our journey (<i>i.e.</i> to the Niger) -without the smallest accident or unpleasant circumstance. -We all of us keep our health, and are on the most -friendly terms with the natives.... By the 27th of -June we expect to have finished all our travels by land, -and when we have once got afloat on the river, we shall -conclude that we are embarking for England. I have -never had the smallest sickness, and Alexander (Mrs. -Park’s brother) is quite free from all his complaints.... -We carry our own victuals with us, and live very well—in -fact we have only had a very pleasant journey; and yet -this is what we thought would be the worst part of it.”</p> - -<p>In looking back undoubtedly Park had every reason -to be satisfied with his journey so far. His men seemed -to have worked heartily enough—at least we find no indications -in his journal of insubordination, grumbling, -or bad conduct. But then he never was in the habit of -putting the least stress on his troubles. It was of more -importance to him to be able to say that he had advanced -a day’s march nearer the Niger than that he had been -subjected to a week’s maddening worry. All vexations -and discomforts he treated like the suppressed adven<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>tures -of his former narrative, of which he said that as -they were only of importance to himself, he would not -weary the reader with a recital of them.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_229" src="images/i_229.png" width="600" height="404" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MUNGO PARK’S ENCAMPMENT.</p></div> - -<p>It is only too probable that he had much trouble with -his men, and certainly between the lines we gather that -he had an immense amount of work to perform—looking -after his caravan on the road, buying food, and holding -innumerable palavers, &c., in camp. Even the nights -he could not call his own, for observations for latitude -and longitude must be taken at all hours—notes written -out, and the observations calculated. He had to be -at once overseer, buyer of food, interpreter, surveyor, -doctor, and general inspirer of the whole party. But -he was equal to everything that could be put on his -shoulders. Within him he had a sustaining force such -as was known to none of those about him, and which -gave him a giant’s strength and the spirit of the gods.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>STILL STRUGGLING TOWARDS THE GREAT RIVER.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Park in his letter home was careful only to look -backward: it is now our business to accompany him -forward, and see what happened as he passed across the -Senegal basin on his way to the Niger.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of June he crossed the Samaku, which -flows north to join the Falemé, and in fear of an attack, -travelled rapidly through an uninhabited district by a -forced march. Here two of the donkeys had to be -abandoned, and there being no guiding pathway, as -darkness came on, muskets were frequently fired to -prevent the men losing each other.</p> - -<p>Early next day the Falemé was seen in the distance. -The carpenter, who had become very ill, could not sit -upright on a donkey, and time after time threw himself -off, declaring that he would rather die. Latterly it took -two men to hold him in his seat by force, and at the -Falemé, which was crossed in the course of the day, he -had to be left behind in charge of a soldier. He died a -few hours after.</p> - -<p>That night a heavy tornado burst upon the caravan. -Five soldiers who had not been under proper shelter, -and got a wetting, became ill in consequence.</p> - -<p>It could no longer be ignored that the rains were at last -upon them, and that just when they were in the network<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> -of streams into which the Senegal and the Niger divide -in their uppermost reaches. One terrible necessity of -their situation was, that sick or not sick, there could be -no halting to allow of possible recovery. They must -push forward towards their goal, though the route -should be marked by the dead bodies of their comrades. -The longer the delay, the more difficult would the march -become, from flooded rivers, more incessant rains, and -the increasing swampiness of the country.</p> - -<p>Up to this time Park had followed his former return -route. He now determined to strike a line further -north in order to avoid the Jallonka Wilderness, of -whose horrors he had such a lively recollection. The -new route was hard and rocky, and very fatiguing to -the donkeys. As the day went on many of the sick -became hopelessly unfit to drive their animals. One of -them Park mounted on his own horse while he himself -assumed the part of donkey driver. Even then four of -the donkeys had to be left in the woods, and he himself -did not reach camp till long after dark. Before -the tents could be pitched a tornado came down upon -them and drenched them to the skin. The ground was -speedily covered to a depth of three inches, and in this -uncomfortable plight—fireless, tentless, dripping—they -had to pass the night. A second tornado about two in -the morning completed their discomfiture.</p> - -<p>This night, in Park’s own words, was “the beginning -of sorrows.... Now that the rain had set in, I trembled -to think that we were only half way through our -journey. The rain had not commenced three minutes -before many of the soldiers were affected with vomiting, -others fell asleep, and seemed as if half intoxicated. I -felt a strong inclination to sleep during the storm, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> -as soon as it was over I fell asleep on the wet ground, -although I used every exertion to keep myself awake. -The soldiers likewise fell asleep on the wet bundles.”</p> - -<p>The immediate result of that night was the addition -of twelve men to the sick list. Next day all the horses -and spare donkeys were requisitioned to carry such as -were unable to walk. The road proved to be a difficult -one along the base of the Konkadu mountains, whose -precipices overhung the line of march in threatening -masses.</p> - -<p>Barely had camp been reached when once more a -tornado burst in all its fury, but thanks to the proximity -of a village, with less disastrous results than on the previous -evening.</p> - -<p>The storm past, Park proceeded to examine some -gold diggings; after which, accompanied by Scott, he -set off to the top of the Konkadu hills, finding them -cultivated to the highest elevations. There also he -found villages romantically situated in delightful glens, -with water and grass in abundance throughout the -year; and there, “while the thunder rolls in awful -grandeur over their heads, they can look from their -tremendous precipices over all that wild and woody -plain which extends from the Falemé to the Bafing or -Black River.”</p> - -<p>To struggle forward handicapped with incapable men -and driverless donkeys was now hard work. Half the -caravan were sick, or too weak to exert themselves -with effect. The result was never-ending confusion and -delay. Unable to hold together, men and donkeys alike -went astray, keeping Park, who could not be in a dozen -places at once, in a state of continual watchfulness and -motion, doing his best to bring up the incapables, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> -“coaxing” them to further exertions each time they -insisted on lying down, indifferent alike to robbers, lions, -or the fevers of night.</p> - -<p>In spite of his iron constitution and sanguine heroic -spirit Park himself was not altogether invulnerable, -and he too became fevered at times—only, however, -to show himself superior to suffering by virtue of his -marvellous will and the exigencies of his situation. -Conscious that the whole fate of the expedition depended -upon his keeping well, he dared not give way. He was -a second self to every one—without him all were absolutely -helpless.</p> - -<p>On leaving Fankia on the 15th of June, most of the -men were ill, some of them even delirious. In this condition -the caravan had to commence the ascent of the -Tambaura mountains. The road was excessively steep—the -donkeys terribly overloaded under their double -burden of sick men and goods. Owing to the nature of -the ground, each animal would have required at least -one separate driver to guide and assist, but in the -present case this was impossible. The result was a scene -of dreadful confusion and disaster. Loaded donkeys -were constantly tumbling over the rocks or falling -exhausted on the pathway, while sick men, indifferent -to their fate, threw themselves down, declaring they -could go no further. The natives, discovering the -predicament of the caravan, crept down among the -rocks and stole what they could when a favourable -opportunity offered.</p> - -<p>At length, by means of superhuman exertions, Park -succeeded in bringing all safely out of the perilous pass -to a village, where he had the inexpressible pleasure -of meeting the Mohammedan schoolmaster who had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> -been so kind to him at Kamalia, and while travelling -with Karfa. As an earnest of his gratitude for past -favours, Park gave him a handsome present of cloth, -beads, and amber, with which the good old man was -delighted. The God-fearing Scotchman did not neglect -to add an Arabic New Testament to his other gifts.</p> - -<p>The history of the expedition was now one of growing -trouble, sickness, and disorganisation. Tornadoes -were almost of daily occurrence, and the country and -the streams became more and more difficult to traverse.</p> - -<p>Up to the 17th of June two men had died, and on -that date two more were left behind at the point of -death. The three days following Park himself was -sick, as were now more than half his men, though -still they struggled on. To add to the dangers of their -situation, they were utterly unable to keep proper watch -over their goods either by day or night—a fact the -natives speedily learned, and constantly dogged their -footsteps, intent on plunder.</p> - -<p>At one village the inhabitants turned out <i>en masse</i>, -prepared to find the white man’s caravan so reduced by -sickness as to fall an easy prize. As a preliminary to -further depredations one of the villagers seized the -bridle of the sergeant’s horse and tried to lead it and -its apparently helpless owner inside the village walls. -The presentation of the rider’s pistol made him think -better of it. At the same time others made as if they -would drive away the donkeys. They had reckoned -without their host, however. Galvanised into new life, -the soldiers promptly loaded their muskets and fixed -their bayonets, at sight of which warlike preparations -the natives were not slow to quit their prey and retire -to a safer distance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p><div class="center"> -<img id="i_235" src="images/i_235.png" width="600" height="403" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">ROCK SCENERY OF THE UPPER SENEGAL.</p></div> - -<p>Having driven their animals across a torrent, the -soldiers left certain of their number to guard them, -and returned to the village, ready to give its inhabitants -a lesson in courtesy and hospitality. At this -moment Park arrived on the scene. Ever anxious to -avoid bloodshed, he called a palaver, and speedily convinced -the chief how insane it would be for him or his -people to molest him. At the same time, desirous of -leaving a favourable impression behind, in case any sick -men might have to repass this way, Park gave the chief -a present, with the remark that it was to show he did -not come to make war, though if he were attacked he -would fight to the last.</p> - -<p>Beyond this point the country became picturesque -beyond words, resembling in its physical features all -sorts of architectural forms, ruined castles, spires, pyramids. -One rocky hill looked so like a ruined Gothic -abbey that the whole party had to approach close to it -to satisfy themselves that its various features were not -really what they seemed. Beyond this <i>lusus naturæ</i> a -compact mass of red granite stood up bare and gaunt, -absolutely destitute of a relieving blade of grass. Here -and there were villages clustering in the curved niches -of giant precipices, alike secured from tropic blasts and -the devastating attacks of men. Everything was rugged -and grand—the sterner features only enhanced by the -interchange of beautiful fertile hollows and silvery -streams winding through the green fields and darker -forest tracts.</p> - -<p>Similar scenes characterised the whole journey through -Konkadu, and the caravan at length reached the borders -of Wuladu at the Bafing. The crossing of this river in -small rickety canoes was not accomplished without a sad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> -fatality, one of them capsizing with three soldiers, of -whom one was drowned.</p> - -<p>The people of Wuladu had a notorious reputation as -thieves, the justice of which was speedily illustrated by -their various more or less successful attempts to lift -from the strangers whatever they saw, thus keeping -the latter continually on the alert.</p> - -<p>After crossing the Bafing, many of the sick who had -struggled on bravely so far began to lose all spirit. An -unconquerable lassitude at times seized them, and no -matter what the danger of the situation, their only -desire was to lie down and be left to die. To escape -the cajolery and coercion to which they were subjected, -they frequently left the track, and gave their leader no -end of worry and trouble hunting them up after camp -was reached. In this way several men disappeared -altogether, bringing up the total losses on the 29th -June to nine.</p> - -<p>Besides its human cormorants, Wuladu proved to be -infested with various beasts of prey, whereby further -anxiety and watchfulness were entailed on the harassed -and despondent little band, weak, and growing every -day weaker.</p> - -<p>Anderson and Scott, on whom Park so much depended -to encourage and push on his followers, besides -themselves doing the work of three or four, now became -incapacitated, while as far as we can gather -from the journal, Lieutenant Martyn never seems to -have been of any use. Everything, accordingly, devolved -on the leader himself, who, ailing as he was, -had to put forth superhuman exertions—driving refractory -and exhausted donkeys, lifting the fallen, and reloading -such as had kicked off or dropped their burdens<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>—at -every step spurring on the sick and despondent to -strive towards their destination, and not allow themselves -to be murdered by natives, devoured by wild -beasts, or overcome by the deadly malaria of the -jungles. In camp he had as little rest as on the road. -No one else was fit to do anything—or being fit, was -not willing—so that he had to be man-of-all-work to -nearly forty men. The night brought neither oblivion -nor relaxation—only new anxieties and new duties. -Sleep he could only get in short snatches—between -whiles taking his astronomical observations, and making -the round of the camp to stir up indifferent and sickly -sentinels. Not unfrequently he had to mount guard -himself throughout the whole night to save the donkeys -from being killed or stampeded by the wild beasts which -kept constantly prowling about. The stormier the night, -the greater necessity was there for him to be up and -doing, no matter what the cost to himself personally.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of July the Furkomo River, another important -tributary of the Senegal, was reached. The -number of deaths now amounted to eleven, most of them -having occurred within the last fortnight.</p> - -<p>In crossing the Furkomo or Bakhoy, Isaaco had a -narrow escape from a crocodile. When near the middle -of the river, he was seized by the left thigh and pulled -under water. With wonderful presence of mind he -thrust his finger into the reptile’s eye, with the result -that it let go its hold. Ere he could regain the shore, -however, the crocodile returned to the attack, and seized -him by the other thigh. Again he thrust his finger into -its eye, with a similar happy result, and before it could -come at him again, bleeding and lacerated, he reached -land. That night, though it threatened rain, every one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> -was so sick and exhausted—even Park being unable to -stand upright—that it was only with the utmost difficulty -that the tents were put up and the loads placed -inside. Isaaco’s wounds made travelling impossible for -him, and as the caravan was largely dependent on his -services, a three days’ halt was decided on.</p> - -<p>With the guide’s partial recovery the march was continued -to Keminum, the neighbourhood of which they -reached with apprehension. The town was fortified in -a remarkably strong fashion. There was first a ditch -8 feet deep, backed by a wall as many feet high. Inside -was a second wall 10 feet in height, within which was a -third of 16 feet.</p> - -<p>The chief and his thirty sons were neither more nor -less than an organised band of robbers who terrorised -over the whole district. Ample evidence of the manner -of his rule was afforded by the heap of human bones -outside the walls, where he executed such prisoners as -were not made slaves of. During the night all the -energies of the caravan were employed in seeking to -protect themselves from the incessant attempts of the -natives to steal; but so helpless were most of the men -that they allowed themselves to be deprived of great-coats, -muskets, pistols, almost without resistance.</p> - -<p>The morning brought no reprieve. The chief’s sons, -not satisfied with their share of the present and the -plunder, did their best to secure some valuable souvenirs -of the white man. This one of them first tried to do -wholesale by simply lifting a load from a donkey, but -the culprit was chased and had to drop his plunder. -The confusion produced by this incident gave another -thief a chance to bolt with a musket.</p> - -<p>Innumerable exasperating attempts of a similar nature<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> -kept Park in constant alarm lest some of the soldiers -should use their weapons and precipitate a fight. -Accordingly, his chief anxiety became to get away as -quickly as possible. Riding a little way out of the -village to see the nature of the road ahead, one of the -chief’s sons distracted his attention while he halted, -whereupon the other suddenly snatched away the traveller’s -loosely held musket. At once Park gave chase -with brandished sword. Anderson, seeing what had -occurred, rushed to his assistance with upraised gun; -but observing who was the offender, he hesitated to fire, -with the result that the thief escaped safely to the rocks. -Meanwhile the brother had leisurely helped himself to -whatever loose property he found on Park’s horse.</p> - -<p>Orders were now given to shoot the first person found -stealing. But the princes were not easily frightened, -and during a tornado that burst overhead, one of them -got off with a musket and a couple of pistols. An -attempt was next made to drive off the donkeys, but fortunately -was frustrated. By way of example, a native -detected in stealing was promptly fired at. On the -march being resumed, every foot of the road was dogged -by the plundering wretches, who scented their prey in -every man who lagged behind, and every donkey that -fell or strayed from the path.</p> - -<p>It was dark before a camping place was reached, and -the night was passed in much misery, man and beast -lying on the wet ground without shelter, exposed to the -excessively heavy dews.</p> - -<p>The march through Wuladu was simply a daily -repetition of the experiences at Keminum. Thieves -hung on the skirts of the caravan like hyenas on the -track of blood, never quitting them by night or by day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> -All stragglers, human or animal, they made their prey, -and by their attempted depredations kept the unhappy -travellers in constant alarm. Each morning and evening -had its tale of loss. Everything, however, was -tolerated, that bloodshed might be avoided—a forbearance -only looked upon as weakness and cowardice -by the natives, who were encouraged accordingly to -continue their marauding with increased audacity. -Park was at length driven to stronger measures, and -on one occasion pursued a robber on horseback, and -after hunting him down, shot him through the leg. -This example had a most salutary effect for a time, -though that day’s tale of spoliation alone included the -more or less complete stripping of four sick men, and -a donkey loaded with the muskets, &c., of the other -invalids.</p> - -<p>Let us quote a characteristic day’s proceedings from -Park’s own journal:—</p> - -<p>“<i>July 19th.</i>—Having purchased an ass in lieu of the -one stolen, we left Nummabu, which is a walled village, -and proceeded onwards. Had two tornadoes. The last, -about eleven o’clock, wetted us much, and made the road -slippery. Two asses unable to go on. Put their loads -on the horses and left them. Mr. Scott’s horse unable -to walk. Left it to our guide. At noon came to the -ruins of a town. Found two more of the asses unable -to carry their loads. Hired people to carry the loads, -and a boy to drive the asses. Passed the ruins of -another town at half-past twelve, where I found two of -the sick who had laid themselves down under a tree and -refused to rise. They were afterwards stripped by the -negroes, and came naked to our tents next morning. -Shortly after this came to an ass lying on the road<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> -unable to proceed with its load. Put part of the load -on my horse, which was already heavily loaded. Took -a knapsack on my back. The soldier carried the remainder, -and drove the ass before him. We arrived -at the Ba Winbina at half-past one o’clock.” Here -follows a description of how a bridge was built, which, -though instructive in the extreme, is too long for insertion. -“Our people being all sickly, I hired the -negroes to carry over all the baggage, and swim over -the asses. Our baggage was laid on the rocks on the -east side of the river, but such was our weakly state -that we were unable to carry it up the bank. Francis -Beedle, one of the soldiers, was evidently dying of the -fever, and having in vain attempted, with the assistance -of one of his messmates, to carry him over, I was forced -to leave him on the west bank, thinking it very probable -that he would die in the course of the night.”</p> - -<p>Day after day the same disheartening tale had to be -told. Now a man is found expiring, and no time can -be lost waiting for his death. Anon another left for -dead is galvanised into life by the appearance of wolves -ready to make a meal of him. On the 27th July one -man had to be left in camp at the point of death—four -more dropped down on the road and refused to -proceed, wishing only to die. Park himself was “very -sick and faint, having to drive my horse loaded with -rice and an ass with the pit saw. Came to an eminence -from which I had a view of some very distant mountains -to the east half south. The certainty that the -Niger washes the southern base of these mountains -made me forget my fever, and I thought of nothing -all the way but how to climb over their blue summits.” -But to his men the sight gave neither health nor in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>spiration, -and but for the fact that to go back was as -difficult as to push forward, they would speedily have -shown in what direction their desires tended.</p> - -<p>What the inmost thoughts of the intrepid explorer -were at this time we would give much to know. In his -journal he nowhere lifts the veil. Throughout there is -only the bare statement of fact that to-day so-and-so has -died—yesterday such another had to be left to his fate: -here a donkey was plundered—there an astronomical -observation taken. The one thing that can touch his -feelings is the sight of the blue summits of distant hills -whose bases are washed by the waters of the Niger.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>TO THE NIGER.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Writing home on the 29th of May, Park, calculating -from his rate of progress so far, predicted that he would -reach the Niger on the 27th of June. It was now the -27th of July, and he was still in the heart of Wuladu, -and quite a hundred miles in a straight line from -Bammaku, his primary destination.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile every one of the donkeys he had originally -started with had died or been stolen, and great inroads had -been made on his stores in replacing them, not to speak -of the loss entailed by plunder and other unforeseen -causes. Twenty of his men had died or been murdered, -and all of them were more or less unfit for work. -Nevertheless his hopes were as unquenchable as ever, -and he buoyed himself up with the belief that if he -could reach the Niger with a certain proportion of his -caravan, the success of his mission would be assured, as -the rest of the wet season might be passed in comparative -comfort while making preparations for navigating -the river. Once launched on its broad bosom, there -would be no more transport difficulties, and but little -work for his men, so that everything might be expected -to end happily and successfully.</p> - -<p>Looking forward thus hopefully, Park turned S.W. -from Bangassi, the chief town of Wuladu, and set his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> -face towards Bammaku. But however sanguine he -might be, he could not improve the conditions of his -march. The rains were now at their very worst. They -fell no longer in passing tornadoes, but in an incessant -drenching downpour. Every stream was swollen to the -dimensions of a river—every plain became a lake or -swamp through which the luckless travellers had to slip -and plunge as best they might. The very pathways -developed into rushing torrents. Subjected to such -conditions of travel, disease demanded its daily quota -of victims, while reducing the strength of all to the -vanishing point. The men speedily became unable to -load their animals—could hardly even drive them along. -Nearly the whole work of the caravan fell upon its -indomitable leader, who even on the road would sometimes -have as many as thirteen fallen donkeys to raise -up and reload.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of August matters became so bad that he -found it necessary to halt for two days—a delay which -to him was almost maddening.</p> - -<p>At the Ba Wulima, Park found Anderson lying under -a bush apparently dying, and had to carry him over on -his back. To assist in the transport of loads, &c., he -had to cross the river sixteen times, with the water -reaching to his waist. In spite of his exertions, however, -several soldiers with their donkeys had to be left -behind.</p> - -<p>In two days four men had been lost—the slow agony -of death from fever being undoubtedly in each case -accelerated by the daggers of robber negroes or the fell -fangs of wolves and other wild beasts.</p> - -<p>On the day after leaving the Ba Wulima, Park was -the only European able to do any work, and but for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> -assistance of Isaaco and his men, the caravan would have -been compelled to remain in camp. The day’s march -was a trying one. Anderson seemed at the point of -death, and it was with difficulty that his brother-in-law -succeeded in holding him on a horse. Every hour -threatened to be his last, and only by frequent rests -could he be got forward in short stages. While thus -employed supporting and cheering his well-loved friend -on the way towards camp, Park was suddenly confounded -by coming face to face with three large lions -making rapidly towards them. Intent first of all on -saving Anderson, with splendid courage he ran forward -to meet them half way, and so as to reserve himself a -second chance if his musket should miss fire, he aimed -as soon as the lions were within easy shot, and fired at -the middle one of the three. This reception brought -the enemy to a standstill, and after seemingly taking -counsel of each other, they turned tail and bounded -away. One, however, quickly stopped, and turned round -as if meditating another attack, but thinking better of -it, again resumed its flight, and left the travellers to -continue their way, though not without the strongest -suspicions that they were still being tracked, and might -be pounced upon in the fast gathering darkness. Before -camp was reached the path taken by the caravan was lost, -and in the darkness Park and his companion wandered -into a gully, where the road became so dangerous that at -length they dared not move further from fear of being -killed by falling over a precipice. Accordingly they were -compelled to make the best of their position, and wait till -morning tentless and foodless. Fortunately they were -able to raise a fire, near which, while Anderson lay -wrapt in a cloak, Park kept watch all night, to drive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> -off lions and wolves. In the morning it was discovered -that half the caravan had passed the night in scattered -parties in much the same manner as their leader. -Happily there were no casualties.</p> - -<p>At a place called Dumbila, Park had the pleasure of -meeting his old friend and protector, Karfa Taura. Here -Anderson became too ill to be moved, Scott had disappeared, -and only one man was able to drive a donkey. -At night rain descended in drenching torrents, and the -men took refuge in the village, leaving their leader -alone to watch that the donkeys did not stray into the -neighbouring corn-fields, and to defend them and their -loads alike from the attacks of wild beasts and from the -bands of marauding natives. But no matter how heavy -the burdens, not a grumble escaped the hero who had -to bear them all—not a hint that he felt himself badly -treated by his men and their officers.</p> - -<p>On the 19th of August, Park, with the helpless, -shattered remnant of his caravan, ascended the mountain -ridge which forms the watershed between the Senegal -and the Niger. Pushing on eagerly to the summit -of the hill, the toil and careworn traveller’s eyes were -gladdened by the spectacle of the “Niger rolling its -immense stream along the plain.”</p> - -<p>“After the fatiguing march which we had just experienced, -the sight of this river was no doubt pleasant, -as it promised an end to, or at least an alleviation -of, our toils. But when I reflected that three-fourths -of the soldiers had died on the march, and that in -addition to our weakly state we had no carpenters to -build the boats in which we proposed to prosecute our -discoveries, the prospect appeared somewhat gloomy. It, -however, afforded me peculiar pleasure when I reflected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> -that in conducting a party of Europeans with immense -baggage through an extent of more than five hundred -miles, I had always been able to preserve the most -friendly terms with the natives.”</p> - -<p>The latter sentence is well worthy of note as illustrative -of Park’s methods of travel at a time when the -sanctity of human life, whether black or white, was not -quite so much thought of as at present.</p> - -<p>In speaking of the distance traversed as five hundred -miles, it must be remembered that what is meant is the -distance in a straight line expressed in geographical -miles. The actual number of English miles travelled -over would be in reality little short of a thousand.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding his frightful experiences, Park considered -that his “journey plainly demonstrates—first, -that with common prudence any quantity of merchandise -may be transported from the Gambia to the Niger -without danger of being robbed by the natives; second, -that if this journey be performed in the dry season, one -may calculate on losing not more than three, or at most -four men, out of fifty.”</p> - -<p>We would naturally have expected him to add as a -third conclusion, that under no circumstance should -Europeans be employed in such a caravan except as -conductors, or it might be as guards. That conclusion, -however, he apparently did not reach—indeed, we look -in vain throughout his journal for any indication that -he was at all aware of the frightful nature of his -blunder in starting only with Europeans.</p> - -<p>And yet before him was the tangible fact, that of -thirty-four soldiers and four carpenters who left the -Gambia with him, only seven entered Bammaku, while -Isaaco and his attendants were all alive and hearty,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> -though much of the white men’s work had fallen upon -them in addition to their own.</p> - -<p>Three days after their arrival at Bammaku the -travellers continued their way. Martyn, with the men -and the donkeys, proceeded by land, while Park, Anderson, -and the goods glided down the river in canoes, at -the rate of five knots an hour, without the necessity of -paddling. At their starting point the river was a mile -broad; but further down, where it passes through a -range of hills and forms rapids, it attains twice that -breadth. Here the great mass of water is gathered -into three principal channels, along which it rushes -with much noise, and a speed which made Park sigh as -the frail canoes containing all his precious stores sped -into the sweeping tide, and seemed threatened with -momentary destruction.</p> - -<p>Two such rapids and three smaller ones were safely -passed during the afternoon. At one place an elephant -was seen standing on an island, so near that if Park -had not been too ill, he would have had a shot at it.</p> - -<p>At several points the canoes ran considerable danger -of being upset by hippos. At night the party landed, -and after a supper of rice and fresh-water turtle, spent -a night exposed to the violence of a tropic storm.</p> - -<p>At Marrabu, where they arrived on the second day, -a halt was called, while Isaaco was despatched to Sego -with a message and a present for Mansong, king of -Bambarra, whose good offices were likely to prove invaluable, -ruling as he did over the whole country from -Bammaku to Timbuktu. While awaiting his messenger’s -return, Park, who had been suffering from dysentery ever -since his arrival on the river, and found himself failing -fast under its deadly attacks, dosed himself with calomel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> -till it affected his throat to such a degree that he could -neither speak nor sleep for six days. The experiment was -successful, however, as regards stopping the progress of -the disease, and his health speedily began to improve.</p> - -<p>The interval of waiting to which he was now subjected -was a time of extreme anxiety. The check -which all the physical difficulties of the march and the -death of three-fourths of his men had failed to give -him might be effected by the will of Mansong. On the -decision of the negro ruler depended Park’s further movements. -A Yes might assure the complete realisation of -all his dearest hopes—a No would be their death-knell.</p> - -<p>Each day brought its crop of unfavourable rumours. -Among others came the report that Mansong had killed -Isaaco with his own hands, and intended to finish off -the white men in a similar summary fashion. Happily -this and kindred stories proved to be pure inventions, -and after a fortnight’s delay a messenger arrived to -conduct Park to Sego, bringing with him an encouraging -account of Mansong’s disposition towards him.</p> - -<p>The drastic methods of the emissaries of negro kings -were well illustrated by the following incident. A native -refusing to give up a canoe for the messenger’s use, the -latter not only seized the canoe in question, but cut the -owner across the forehead with his sword, broke the -brother’s head with a paddle, and finally made a slave -of the son. Before such deeds criticism was dumb.</p> - -<p>And now all seemed about to go well with the expedition. -Cradled on the majestic bosom of the great river, -with toils and worry over, its leader could afford to -allow himself to be lulled into a sweet dreamland, in -which he saw himself gliding peacefully towards the -Congo and the Atlantic. Of goods he had still sufficient<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> -for his object—of men, too, there were enough; and -with mind thus comparatively at ease, he could give -himself up to the enjoyment of the beautiful views of -“this immense river—sometimes as smooth as a mirror, -at others ruffled by a gentle breeze, but at all times -sweeping along at the rate of six or seven miles an -hour.”</p> - -<p>In two days Yamina was reached, and a third brought -the party to Sami, where once more they halted while -the messenger went forward to inform Mansong of -their proximity, and ask instructions concerning them. -Two days later Isaaco joined them from Sego. He -reported that Mansong’s position was very neutral. -The king showed impatience when the subject of the -white men was broached, though he had said that they -were at liberty to pass down the river. In addition he -gave Isaaco to understand that he wanted no direct -dealings with Park.</p> - -<p>On the following day a king’s messenger arrived to -receive Mansong’s present from Park’s own hands, as -well as to hear the object of his visit. In his speech -the traveller told how he was the same poor white man -who, after being plundered by the Moors, was so hospitably -received by their king, whose generous conduct -had made his name much respected in the country of -the Europeans. He then proceeded to point out what -a trading people his (the traveller’s) were, and how all -the articles of value that reached the country of Mansong -were made by them, being afterwards brought by -Moors and others by long and expensive routes, which -made everything extremely dear. That these European -goods might be brought cheaper to Bambarra for the -mutual benefit of whites and blacks, his king had sent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> -him to see if a short and easy route could not be found -by way of the Niger. If such was discovered, then -the white men’s vessels would come direct all the way -from Europe and supply them with abundance of all -their good things at cheap prices.</p> - -<p>In reply to this speech the emissary said that the -white man’s journey was a good one, and prayed that -God might prosper him in it. Mansong would protect -him. The sight of the presents added to the friendly -feelings thus expressed.</p> - -<p>To dash Park’s joy at the favourable aspect of affairs -two more soldiers died—one of fever, the other of dysentery—leaving -him with only four men, besides Anderson -and Martyn.</p> - -<p>In a couple of days the king sent a further message -intimating that the white strangers would be protected, -and that wherever his power and influence extended the -road would be open to them. If they went East, no man -would harm them till beyond Timbuktu. Westward, -the name of Mansong’s stranger would be a safe password -through the land to the Atlantic itself. If they -wished to sail down the river, they were at liberty to -build boats at any town they pleased.</p> - -<p>As Mansong had never once expressed a wish to see -him, and seemingly had some superstitious fear of the -possible consequence, Park fixed upon Sansandig as the -best place to prepare for his new adventure. Here, -too, he would have more quiet, and would be more -exempt from begging, than within the daily range of -the king’s officials.</p> - -<p>In his passage from Sami to Sansandig, Park was -attacked by a violent fever, which rendered him temporarily -delirious. According to the sufferer, the heat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> -was so terrific as to have been equal to the roasting of -a sirloin, and there was neither covering to ward it off -nor slightest puff of wind to temper it.</p> - -<p>On reaching his destination the traveller was received -by his old friend Kunti Mamadi, who placed the necessary -huts at his disposal. On the following day two -more of his men expired, and it began to look as if at -the very moment when success seemed assured he was -to be doomed to lose all. So frightfully were they all -reduced at this time, and so little able to look after each -other, that, unmolested, hyenas entered the dead men’s -hut, dragged one of them out, and devoured him.</p> - -<p>From Park’s journal we get an interesting glimpse -of Sansandig, with its 11,000 inhabitants and its -mosques, of which two were by “no means inelegant.” -But, as in all African towns, it was the market-place -which was the centre of life and interest. From -morning till night the square was crowded with busy -groups of people gathered round the various mat-covered -stalls which formed the shops, each containing its own -speciality—beads in every gorgeous hue to catch the -eye of the ornament-loving sex, antimony to darken and -beautify the tips of the ladies’ eyelids, rings and bracelets -to attract wandering male glances to female feet -and hands. In more substantial houses were scarlet -cloths, silks, amber, and other valuable commodities -which had found their way across the desert from -Morocco or Tripoli—over roads marked out by the -skeletons of slaves and camels who had sunk down -to perish under the frightful hardships of the route. -Vegetables, meat, salt, &c., each had their own stalls—beer, -too, in large quantities, near a booth where leather -work found its purchasers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p> - -<p>Such was the everyday state of the square; but the -scene was still more animated and interesting on the -occasion of the Tuesday weekly market. On that day -enormous crowds of people gathered from the whole -surrounding country to buy and sell wholesale, and -many were the delightful glimpses of native life and -character continually presenting themselves to the eyes -of the observant traveller. He even found a means -whereby to turn the market to his own advantage.</p> - -<p>Mansong being slow in carrying out his promise to -supply canoes to be turned into boats, Park opened a -shop himself for the purpose of exchanging some of his -articles for cowries, by which he hoped to purchase the -necessary means of transport. He made such a tempting -display that he had at once a great run of business, -and became the envy of all the merchants of the place. -In one day he secured 25,000 cowries.</p> - -<p>While thus peacefully employed, every effort was -being made on the part of the Moors and native -merchants in order to set Mansong against the white -man, and get him killed, or sent back by the way he had -come. They even did not hesitate to say that his object -was to kill the king and his sons by means of charms. -Mansong, however, was not to be prevailed on by such -instigations, though his behaviour showed some belief -in the reported magical powers.</p> - -<p>After much delay, Park succeeded in obtaining two -canoes, to join which together he and Bolton, the sole -remaining capable man, now set themselves with great -vigour. The rotten parts were replaced, the holes were -repaired, and after eighteen days’ hard labour the united -canoes were launched and christened His Majesty’s -schooner <i>Joliba</i>, the length being forty feet, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> -breadth six. Being flat-bottomed, it drew only one foot -of water.</p> - -<p>While Park was thus toiling with feverish energy to -complete his preparations, Martyn seems to have been -taking life very easily. From a letter written from -Sansandig to a friend at Goree we get an idea of the -sort of man he was, and how much he assisted in the -work of the expedition. “Whitebread’s beer,” says the -Lieutenant, “is nothing to what we get at this place, -as I feel by my head this morning, having been drinking -all night with a Moor, and ended by giving him -an excellent thrashing.” Could the contrast possibly be -greater between Park and this man—the one possessed -with a consuming desire to accomplish a work seemingly -beyond mortal power, slaving with the strength -of half-a-dozen ordinary men, uncrushed by a myriad -misfortunes, his hero’s spirit equal to every difficulty -and danger; the other spending his time in drunken -orgies, seemingly as careless of his life as indifferent to -the great mission that was partly his.</p> - -<p>The last and worst stroke of evil fortune that could -befall Park came upon him in the form of his brother-in-law -Anderson’s death, which occurred on the 28th -October. He had been Park’s special support in all -his trials, ever the one to whom he could open his heart, -or from whom he could seek advice and encouragement. -His thoughts and feelings on the occasion, Park, with -characteristic reserve, does not put on paper, though he -cannot help observing “that no event which took place -during the journey ever threw the smallest gloom on -my mind till I laid Mr. Anderson in the grave. I then -felt myself as if left a second time lonely and friendless -amidst the wilds of Africa.”</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE LAST OF PARK.</i></span></h2> - -<p>By the middle of November the last preparations for the -great voyage on the Niger were completed. Isaaco had -been paid off, and one Amadi Fatuma, a native of Karson, -and a great traveller, hired in his place to guide the -party to Kashna, which Park still believed to be on the -river. To Isaaco, Park’s precious journal was entrusted -for conveyance home.</p> - -<p>On the 17th November, dating from “On board of -H.M. schooner <i>Joliba</i>, at anchor off Sansandig,” Park -wrote to Lord Camden. After some remarks on his -situation, he continues—</p> - -<p>“From this account I am afraid that your Lordship -will be apt to consider matters as in a very hopeless -state, but I assure you I am far from desponding. -With the assistance of one of the soldiers I have changed -a large canoe into a tolerably good schooner, on board -of which I shall set sail to the east, with the fixed resolution -to discover the termination of the Niger or perish -in the attempt. I have heard nothing I can depend on -respecting the remote course of this mighty stream, but -I am more and more inclined to think that it can end -nowhere but in the sea.</p> - -<p>“My dear friend Mr. Anderson, and likewise Mr. -Scott, are both dead; but though all the Europeans<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> -who are with me should die, and though I were myself -half dead, I would still persevere, and if I could not -succeed in the object of my journey, I would at least die -on the Niger. If I succeed in the object of my journey, -I expect to be in England in the month of May or June, -by way of the West Indies.”</p> - -<p>On the 19th he wrote to his wife—</p> - -<p>“ ... I am afraid that, impressed with a woman’s -fears and the anxieties of a wife, you may be led to consider -my situation as a great deal worse than it is.... -The rains are completely over, and the healthy season -has commenced, so that there is no danger of sickness, -and I have still a sufficient force to protect me from -any insult in sailing down the river to the sea.</p> - -<p>“We have already embarked all our things, and shall -sail the moment I have finished this letter. I do not -intend to stop nor land anywhere till we reach the coast, -which I suppose will be some time in the end of January.... -I think it not unlikely but that I shall be in England -before you receive this.... We this morning -have done with all intercourse with the natives. The -sails are now being hoisted for our departure to the -coast.”</p> - -<p>These letters are full of brave words, yet they do not -express one iota more than what Park was capable of. -They breathe his remarkable personality in every line. -They show the heroic spirit that does not know the word -impossible, that does not know when it is beaten—that -having once set itself a task, is incapable of turning -back. They speak eloquently of a stubborn resolution -which only death itself can render powerless, and such a -resolution as the world has rarely seen.</p> - -<p>It is almost impossible to realise the position of our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> -hero at the moment when he prepared to embark on one -of the most perilous and uncertain voyages history records. -In some aspects it deserves to rank with the -voyage of Columbus across the Atlantic. The bourne -was equally uncertain, the distance not so very much -less, the perils quite as great. It might even be said -that compared with that of Park, the enterprise of -Columbus was most hopeful. Columbus, too, had always -the option of turning back. For Park there was no -such door of escape. Success or death was his only -choice, and even success might mean captivity or worse, -the best geographer of the time holding that the Niger -termination was not in the ocean, but in the heart of -the continent. If he proved right, how many were -the chances against Park’s ever finding his way out -again.</p> - -<p>It is to be remembered, in addition, that this voyage -of from 2000 to 3000 miles—supposing the Niger to be -the same as the Congo—was not embarked upon in the -heyday of the party’s hopes, but after an unparalleled -series of misfortunes and a frightful tale of death.</p> - -<p>For sole means of carrying out this wonderful enterprise -Park had nothing better than an unwieldy half-rotten -canoe, and a crew consisting of an officer wholly -unsuited to the work, three European privates, of whom -one was mad and the others sick, and lastly, Amadi -Fatuma, the guide, and three slaves—nine men in all.</p> - -<p>With this “sufficient force to protect me from insult,” -the canoe had to be navigated without a pilot for -hundreds of miles along a river studded at parts with -dangerous rocks, and everywhere infested by equally -dangerous hippos—a river whose banks were occupied -for much of the way by fanatical Moors and Tuaregs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> -while beyond were unknown tribes of cannibal savages -and other bloodthirsty natives.</p> - -<p>But nothing could daunt the intrepid explorer—nothing -make him waver in his “fixed resolution to -discover the termination of the Niger or die in the -attempt.”</p> - -<p>Thus spiritually armed and inspired, and thus materially -supported, with the writing of his last words to -the world, the sails of the <i>Joliba</i> were unfurled to the -wind, and like Ulysses of old, Park pushed off from -land bent on some work of noble note. And though -made “weak by time and fate,” still “strong in will, to -strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield” till death itself -should close his toilsome struggle, or Ocean once more -happily receive him on its broad bosom, and bear him -to the “Happy Isles” and the blessed guerdon of his -accomplished work.</p> - -<p>The die was cast, and down the great river he glided -towards the untravelled countries of the east and south—towards -the heart of savage Africa, and the deep darkness -of the Unexplored.</p> - -<p>His journals and letters in the hands of the faithful -Isaaco safely reached the coast and afterwards Europe, -thrilling all true-born men and women with the unparalleled -tale of travel they so simply yet graphically -unfolded. All waited with eager impatience for the -reappearance of the hero. Speculation was rife as to -his point of exit, or whether he would ever be heard -of more.</p> - -<p>May of 1806 passed into June without bringing -further news. The year 1806 gave place to 1807, and -then fears as to the ultimate fate of the expedition -began to find expression. To strengthen these, rumours<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> -from West Africa reached home that native traders -from the interior reported a disastrous close to the -enterprise. With each succeeding month these reports -grew in number and consistency, till Government could -no longer ignore them, and determined to send a reliable -native to the Niger to make special inquiries.</p> - -<p>For this task Isaaco was engaged, and in January -1810 he left Senegal. In October of the same year he -reached Sansandig, where he was so fortunate as to -find Amadi Fatuma, the guide Park had taken with -him down the Niger.</p> - -<p>On seeing Isaaco, Amadi broke into tears and lamentations, -crying out, “They are all dead, they are lost -for ever!” His story was soon told. The substance -of it was as follows:—</p> - -<p>On leaving Sansandig, Park, in pursuance of his -plan not to hold communication with the people on -land, so as if possible to avoid attack or detention, -pursued his course down the middle of the stream. At -Silla another slave was added to the party, and at -Jenné a present was sent to the head man, though no -landing was made at either place.</p> - -<p>On reaching the point where the Niger divides to -form the island of Jinbala, they were attacked by three -canoes armed with pikes and bows and arrows, which -were repulsed by force on the failure of more peaceful -methods.</p> - -<p>At a place called Rakhara a similar attempt was -made to stop the progress of the <i>Joliba</i>, and a third -near Timbuktu. On each occasion the natives were -driven back with the loss of many killed and wounded.</p> - -<p>On passing Timbuktu, the country of Gurma and the -lands of the Tuaregs lay before them. In this part of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> -the river a determined attempt to dispute their passage -was made by seven canoes; but the natives having no -guns, were easily repulsed by the crew of the <i>Joliba</i>, -which, though reduced to eight in number, were well -supplied with muskets, constantly kept ready for action. -Here another soldier died. Further on the <i>Joliba</i> was -attacked by sixty canoes, but without serious result.</p> - -<p>If the guide is to be trusted, Martyn seems to have -enjoyed this part of the work to the full—so much so, -indeed, that once, after a good deal of bloodshed, Amadi -seized the Lieutenant’s hand and begged him to desist, -there being no further necessity for fighting. So enraged -was Martyn, that the humane interference would have -cost Amadi his life, but for Park’s intervention.</p> - -<p>Some distance beyond the scene of this battle the -<i>Joliba</i> struck on the rocks, and during the confusion -which ensued a hippo nearly completed their discomfiture -by rushing at the boat, which it would have -destroyed or upset, but for the timely firing of the -men’s guns. With great difficulty the canoe was got off -without having suffered any material damage.</p> - -<p>The party had now reached the centre of the ancient -empire of Songhay, and everything was going as well as -could be expected. They had still sufficient provisions -to make landing unnecessary.</p> - -<p>At a place called Kaffo three more canoes had to be -driven back, and further on the guide, on landing to -buy some milk, was seized by the natives. Park, seeing -this, promptly laid hold of two canoes which had come -alongside, and let their owners understand that unless -his man was released he would kill them all and carry -off their canoes. This threat had the required result, the -guide being released, and amicable relations resumed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p> - -<p>Beyond the point where this incident happened, the -river became difficult to navigate. It was broken up -by islands and rocks into three narrow passages. The -place is probably that marked in Barth’s map, some -seventy miles south of Gargo, the former capital of Songhay. -The first passage tried was found to be guarded -by armed men, “which,” says the guide, “caused great -uneasiness to us, especially to me, and I seriously promised -never to pass there again without making considerable -charitable donations to the poor.” On trying -a second channel the party was not molested.</p> - -<p>A few days later they reached the Haussa country, probably -near the Gulbi-n-Gindi, which comes from Kebbi, -the western of the then independent states. Here, according -to Amadi, his agreement ended, though, according -to Park’s letters, he was to have gone as far as Kashna. -Before separating from his guide Park wrote down the -names of the necessaries of life and some useful phrases -in the dialects of the remaining countries through which -he had to pass. This task occupied two days, during -which the <i>Joliba</i> remained at anchor, but without landing -any of her crew.</p> - -<p>Though thus losing his interpreter, and adding in -consequence to the dangers of the voyage by having no -one through whom to communicate when necessary with -the natives, Park had every reason to be hopeful. He -had now sailed over a thousand miles down the river -without any serious mishap, though the way had lain -through the country of the Moors, and their equally -fanatical co-religionists the Tuaregs. Ahead lay the land -of the negroes, among whom, all things considered, he -had ever found a kindly welcome and hospitable treatment. -Especially encouraging was the fact that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> -Niger was flowing due south—consequently towards the -Atlantic, and not to the inland swamps of Rennell’s -theories.</p> - -<p>There was therefore no great reason to consider the -want of an interpreter as an important drawback, and -consequently no attempt was made to induce Amadi to -go further than Yauri, the next district to the south of -the Gulbi-n-Gindi. Here Amadi went ashore, and after -exchanging presents on the part of Park with the king, -Al Hadj, or the “Pilgrim,” bought more provisions, to -enable the white men to continue their way without -landing. This, though probably a necessary business, -was destined to prove fatal to the prospects of the -expedition. The cupidity of the natives was aroused by -the wealth which the strangers were believed to have -with them—a sample of which was afforded by the -presents sent to the king.</p> - -<p>Immediately to the south of Yauri, the low, flat valley -of the Niger contracts to a glen or gorge, where the subtending -sandstone hills pass into abrupt and precipitous -masses of hard metamorphic rock, and break up the -channel of the river by dangerous rocks and islands -occupied by villages. Thus narrowed and divided the -waters of the river sweep onward in three branches—one -of them easy to navigate; the others difficult at flood -time, and almost impossible when the river is low.</p> - -<p>During the delay at Yauri the news of the strangers’ -coming either spread in the ordinary way to Bussa, or -was conveyed by special messenger, and preparations -were made to stop them.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_265" src="images/i_265.png" width="535" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE BUSSA RAPIDS.</p></div> - -<p>Unconscious of the dangers ahead, Park left Yauri -and continued his way south. Having no one acquainted -with the river in his canoe, he unluckily struck upon the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> -worst of the three channels, and rushed to his doom. -Once in the sweep of the current to turn back was impossible. -To land was equally out of the question even -had it been possible, for to right and left the rocks and -islands were crowded with natives in war array bent -on stopping the intruders. The energy and attention -of the handful of travellers was divided between the -double danger—the rapids and rocks around and ahead<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> -of them, and the weapons hurtling through the air. -Two of the slaves were speedily killed; for the rest there -was no other course but to keep onward, alternately firing -and paddling, ever hoping to make good their escape. -A little more and they would be out of danger. Before -they were aware, however, the <i>Joliba</i> rushed into the -grip of a hidden cleft rock and there stuck fast. With -desperate energy each man seized his paddle, and mindful -only of the supreme peril of the moment, plied it with the -strength of one who works for dear life. In vain—the -<i>Joliba</i> would not yield to their frantic efforts. With -delighted yells the natives gathered on the neighbouring -rocks, and sure of their prey, plied their weapons with -renewed zeal.</p> - -<p>The last resource was to lighten the canoe, and everything -of weight was accordingly thrown into the river. -That too proved useless, and now Park and his little -band of followers knew they had reached the culminating -point of their misfortunes. For a time they -fought on as if determined to sell their lives dearly, -but at length desisted, struck with the futility of their -efforts. Their goods were gone—their number was reduced -to four. To continue fighting was only further to -enrage their enemies. What were the feelings of the -hero at this supreme moment of disaster—what his last -determination, who shall say?</p> - -<p>Amadi tells us that in the end Park took hold of one -white man and Martyn of the other, and thus united they -all four jumped into the river, whether to die together, -or with the intention of mutually assisting each other, -will never be known. The latter supposition is the -more probable, for with Park while there was life there -was hope. In any case the result was the same. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> -Niger claimed him as its own, and since to unlock its -secrets was not to be his, what more fitting for him -than death beneath its rushing waters.</p> - -<p>Of the party only one slave remained alive. Of the -contents of the canoe the sole articles left were a -sword-belt, which the King of Yauri utilised as a -horse-girth, and some books, one of which has reached -England.</p> - -<p>The guide did not escape scathless any more than the -other members of the expedition. Scarcely had he taken -leave of Park, when he was seized and loaded with -chains, remaining in imprisonment for some months. -His first business on obtaining his freedom was to -find out the sole survivor of the expedition, and learn -from him the manner of its leader’s death. Having -satisfied himself as far as might be on this point, he -returned home to Sansandig, from which rumour gradually -carried his sad tale to the coast, and resulted in the -mission of Isaaco.</p> - -<p>To obtain the sword-belt, and otherwise substantiate -Amadi’s story, Isaaco despatched a Fulah to Yauri. -The Fulah succeeded in stealing the belt, and gathered -confirmation of the tale of disaster, whereupon Isaaco -set out for the coast with the melancholy tidings and -solitary relic.</p> - -<p>With the many the tragic story obtained immediate -credence. A few there were, however, who refused to -give up hope, though that hope was but the offspring of -their love and ardent wishes. Among these was Mrs. -Park, who to her dying day, thirty years after the -above events, clung to the belief that her husband was -yet alive, and would some day be found.</p> - -<p>The Government, not unmindful of their duty to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> -family of such a heroic servant, granted Mrs. Park a -small pension, which she continued to receive till her -death in 1840.</p> - -<p>Her children as they grew up speedily showed that -they inherited much of the spirit of their father. -Mungo, the eldest, obtained a commission in the Indian -army. But he had not his father’s constitution, and he -died ten days after landing at Bombay. His younger -brother, Archibald, was more fortunate in the same field -of honour, and rose to the rank of Colonel.</p> - -<p>But it was the second son, Thomas, who seemed most -largely to have inherited the adventurous nature of his -father. He, like his mother, never lost belief in the idea -that his father was somewhere a prisoner in the heart -of Africa. Thither, in the ardent, impulsive days of -youth, his thoughts perpetually turned, till the desire -of ascertaining the truth possessed him as strongly as -the solution of the mystery of the Niger had formerly -possessed Park himself. But by this time the Parks -were alone in their belief, and unsupported, the impetuous -young fellow was next to helpless. In secret, -however, he continued to scheme and plan all the more, -ever with the one object in view.</p> - -<p>At length in the year 1827 he embarked on board -a vessel bound for the South Seas. In some way or -other he contrived to leave the ship and reach the Gold -Coast, determined now to carry out by himself his long -cherished desire to discover his father’s fate.</p> - -<p>The following letter, dated Accra, 1827, tells all we -know of his plans:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">My dearest Mother</span>,—I was in hopes I should -have been back before you were aware of my absence.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> -I went off—now that the murder is out—entirely from -fear of hurting your feelings. I did not write to you -lest you should not be satisfied. Depend upon it, my -dearest mother, I shall return safe. You know what a -curious fellow I am, therefore don’t be afraid for me. -Besides, it was my duty—my filial duty—to go, and I -shall yet raise the name of Park. You ought rather to -rejoice that I took it into my head. Give my kindest -love to my sister. Tell her I think the boat would -do very well for the Niger. I shall be back in three -years at the most—perhaps in one. God bless you, my -dearest mother, and believe me to be, your most affectionate -and dutiful son,</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Thomas Park</span>.” -</p></blockquote> - -<p>Thereafter an ominous silence followed. Like the -elder Park, the hot-headed young fellow, whom we cannot -help loving for his folly—knowing as we do its -mainspring—disappeared from sight in the Dark Continent, -whence only vague rumours ever came back, -sorrow-laden, telling of a speedy and bloody close to -his wild yet heroic mission.</p> - -<p>And so fatally ended the connection of the Park -family with the exploration of the River Niger, and -thus closed the first great chapter in the history of the -opening up of Inner Africa.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE FULAH REVOLUTION.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Simultaneously with the commencement of Park’s -work of exploration, an event of almost equal moment -in the history of the Niger basin had begun to germinate. -This was the phenomenal rise to a position -of immense political and religious importance of the -Fulahs—a people known among the Haussa as Fillani, -and in Bornu as Fillatah.</p> - -<p>As Park was the forerunner of Christian enterprise, -so Othman dan Fodiyo, a simple Fulah Malaam or -teacher, in raising the banner of Islam, marked the -revival of the political and religious spirit of Mohammedanism -in the Central and Western Sudan.</p> - -<p>We have seen how the huge empire of Songhay -crumbled into pieces before the musketeers of a Moorish -sultan—how with its political influence went its civilising -influence, and whole kingdoms and provinces fell -back into the old idolatry and barbarism.</p> - -<p>Similarly and almost contemporaneously, Bornu, -largely though not so entirely, lost its old military -power and progressive force. The Haussa States, left -to themselves, showed a like degenerative tendency, and -largely lapsed into the old heathen ways.</p> - -<p>But in all the mass of idolatry was a leaven of -quickening influence, which prevented it from becom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>ing -altogether dead and sodden. From Lake Chad to -the Atlantic there was scattered one remarkable race -who forgot not God, neither lapsed into the abominations -of the infidel. Though without political status, -and holding no better position than that of semi-serfs—being, -moreover, spread broadcast in small groups as -shepherds—they yet had in them a bond of union and an -inspiring force which supported them in all their trials, -and kept them from racial annihilation.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_271" src="images/i_271.png" width="600" height="429" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">GROUP OF FULAHS.</p></div> - -<p>That race was the Fulah, and their bond of union was -the religion of Islam.</p> - -<p>Where they came from is unknown. Everything relating -to them is a matter of conjecture, though in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> -Sudanese chronicles we find various allusions to them -extending back several centuries.</p> - -<p>Their well-chiselled features, straight wiry hair, and -copper-coloured skin, all distinctly mark them off as not -African, and point towards the East as the cradle of -their race. Still more, their well-developed skulls and -high intellectual average place them on an altogether -higher level in the scale of humanity than any of the -negro or Bantu races among whom they settled.</p> - -<p>At some remote period, we may safely conjecture, they -immigrated from the East, and gradually moved westward—not -as warrior-conquerors, but as peace-loving -shepherds, whose knowledge of cattle, &c., made them -welcome additions to every country they reached. Nomadic -in habit, and depending for subsistence on their -flocks and herds, it was impossible for them to settle in -large numbers in any one place—the country being -already occupied by the negro inhabitants. Accordingly -it was ever necessary for them to move westward, leaving -behind them only such numbers as could conveniently -get a living.</p> - -<p>By the fourteenth or fifteenth century the Fulahs had -reached the watersheds of the Niger and the Gambia. -Here the migratory tide was stopped by physical and -other causes. The country beyond proved to be less -adapted for pastoral pursuits, and possibly was already -thickly populated.</p> - -<p>There being no further outlet westward, the newcomers -naturally accumulated as does the dammed back -stream. They increased in numbers, and correspondingly -in power, till they became of no small importance, -and founded for themselves a kingdom which has -been already mentioned under the name of Fulahdu.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span></p> - -<p>When Islam crossed the desert and found its way -in the ninth and tenth centuries into the Sudan, the -Fulahs were the very first to become converts to the -new religion. Their temperament, their higher intellectual -development, made them more quickly susceptible -to the new influences, and hence it was that while as yet -the great mass of the aborigines were still infidel, the -Fulahs with one voice were proclaiming their belief in -Allah and His Prophet. Persecution, as in the case -of other religions, had only the result of burning the -tenets of Islam deeper into their souls, causing their -faith to shine with a clearer and more spiritual light -to the edification and instruction of the surrounding -idolaters. In the Western Sudan, where they enjoyed, -or came to enjoy, an independent existence, Islam spread -among the Fulahs with special rapidity; and with the -fall of Songhay and the crippling of the influence of -Timbuktu, they became the chief propagators of Mohammedanism -and the great encouragers of learning by -means of mosques and schools—rarely by the power -of fire and the sword. Not only did they and their co-religionists -of neighbouring tribes, the Mandingoes and -the Jolofs, thus spread a knowledge of the One God—they -at the same time did an equally noble work in -arraying themselves against the rapidly advancing flood -of gin which Christian Europe was pouring into their -country. With that traffic they would have nothing to -do, and unlike so many of our Christian merchants, no -consideration of profit would tempt them to a compromise -between their conscience and the lust for gain.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile the Fulahs of the kingdoms of the interior -had much to do to hold their own among their Pagan -masters. Their position was most galling to a race<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> -which knew themselves infinitely superior to those -whom they were obliged to own as masters—more bitter -still that they, the inheritors of the promises, should be -ruled by idolaters and men whose portion was Gehenna. -Broken up as they were into little groups scattered -over an enormous area, what could they do? The answer -to that question was speedily forthcoming. They had, -as we have shown, the necessary bond of union and the -inspiring spiritual force to make them fight as one man -for a common end. They only needed the leader to -utilise this force and bring it into action. Such a man -is never wanting when the times demand him, and he -in this case was forthcoming in the person of Othman, -the Imam or religious sheik of the Fulah of Gober, the -northern of the Haussa States.</p> - -<p>Under the influence of this sheik the Fulah of that -region were roused to a state of religious fervour such -as they had never known before. His fiery eloquence -touched their excitable and imaginative nature as he -brought home to them the shame of their semi-enslaved -position. The fires of discontent were thus set smouldering, -and required but a little more fanning to cause -them to blaze into the flames of rebellion.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile their Haussa ruler, Bawa, was not blind -to the dangerous ferment existing among them, and -fearing the results, summoned Othman to his presence, -and severely reprimanded him. This was sufficient for -the proud and enthusiastic “Believer.” He left Bawa’s -presence only to raise the standard of revolt—the sacred -banner of Islam. The effect was electric. In response -to his summons the Fulah at once gathered around him -in an enthusiastic army.</p> - -<p>But they were mostly shepherds—men of peace,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> -unaccustomed to the use of arms; and they could -not be at once transformed into successful warriors. -Consequently at first they met with discomfiture and -defeat in every encounter. Had they been fighting for -themselves the movement would undoubtedly have collapsed -at the first rude shock of arms. But happily for -them they had a higher interest at heart. They fought -for God and His Prophet, whose instruments they believed -themselves to be. In such a warfare there could -be no doubt in their minds as to whose would ultimately -be the victory. With ever-growing zeal they returned -to the charge, stimulated in their glorious crusade by -their leader Othman’s religious songs and fiery words, -which told them that theirs was a cause for which it -was much to live and fight, but even more to die, if it -should be God’s will.</p> - -<p>Thus led and encouraged, the Fulah grew in experience -of battle and the use of arms. The hordes of -shepherds were gradually beaten into a disciplined -army of warriors, and from defeat rose to victory.</p> - -<p>Thus it was that Othman and his ever-victorious -army burst forth from Gober on their irresistible career, -filling the wild wastes of Central African heathendom -with their cry of “None but the One God,” till the -whole of the Western and Central Sudan, from Lake -Chad to the Atlantic, acknowledged more or less temporarily -the political supremacy of the Fulah. Yet it -was no mere temporal power that Othman and his -people sought to establish—theirs was a conquest for -God. They acted but as His agents. Before them -fetishism and all its degrading rites disappeared. No -longer did the natives bow down to stocks and stones, -but to Allah, the One God. Once more, as in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> -palmy days of Songhay and Bornu, schools and mosques -sprang up throughout the land, and the Greatness, the -Compassionateness, and the All-embracing Mercy of the -Ruler of the Universe were taught to natives released -from the foul blight of idolatry in its worst form.</p> - -<p>In this work of releasing the Faithful from their -bondage to heathen taskmasters, and bringing new -light in a forcible fashion to the barbarous and breechless -natives, the Fulah did not stop till from every -village of the Central Sudan there was heard in the grey -dawn of the tropic morning the stentorian voice of the -negro Mueddin, announcing that prayer was better than -sleep—bringing from out the faintly illumined houses the -devout Moslems to humble their faces in the dust, and -acknowledge their utter faith in and dependence on -Allah.</p> - -<p>No less thoroughly was the material welfare of the -people cared for. “The laws of the Koran were in his -(Othman’s) time strictly put in force, not only among -the Fillahtah (Fulah), but the negroes and the Arabs; -and the whole country, when not in a state of war, was -so well regulated, that it was a common saying that a -woman might travel with a casket of gold upon her head -from one end of the Fillahtah dominions to the other.” -So wrote Clapperton a few years after the death of -Othman, as eye-witness of the wonderful revolution -effected by the Fulah.</p> - -<p>Unhappily the religious fervour of the remarkable -leader speedily developed into religious mania, and ended -in his death in 1817.</p> - -<p>On the death of Othman, the huge empire he had -raised was divided between his sons Bello and Abd -Allahi. To the former was given Sokoto and all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> -east and south, while to the latter fell the western provinces -along the Niger, with Gandu as capital. The -countries to the west of the Niger, including Massina, -became independent under Ahmed Lebbo, one of -Othman’s lieutenants, who conquered that region immediately -before the death of Othman.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>NEW ENTERPRISES AND NEW THEORIES.</i></span></h2> - -<p>As we have seen, Park’s second expedition was fruitful -in nothing but disaster, and the legacy of experience -that helps others to success.</p> - -<p>The journal Isaaco brought back from the Niger did -not add anything to our knowledge of the river, and so -little did Amadi Fatuma’s narrative supplement it as -to the results of the voyage down the stream to Bussa, -that in the map attached to the published journal and -biographical notice in 1816, Park’s furthest point is -placed only some eighty miles to the E.S.E. of Timbuktu, -instead of nearly 700 miles in a straight line S.E.</p> - -<p>There was one geographer, however, more far-seeing -than the others, who, though at the time unheeded, struck -upon the real solution of the problem of the Niger’s termination. -This was M. Richard, a German, who published -his views on the subject in the “Ephemerides -Geographique” as far back as 1808. These, briefly -stated, were as follows. The Niger, after reaching -Wangara, takes a direction towards the south, and being -joined by other rivers from that part of Africa, makes a -great turn thence towards the south-west, pursuing its -course till it approaches the north-eastern extremity of the -Gulf of Guinea, where it divides and discharges itself by -different channels into the Atlantic, after having formed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> -an immense delta, of which the Rio del Rey constitutes -the eastern, and the Rio Formosa or Benin the western -branch.</p> - -<p>Never was a better instance of a mental discovery of -a geographical fact. Richard’s hypothesis is a graphic -description of the actual geography of the middle and -lower Niger. This of course was not to be recognised -by the world, before whose eyes the Kong Mountains -ever loomed up as an impassable barrier running across -the suggested line of drainage. Till these could be -removed, turned aside, or broken up, no geographer -was prepared to allow that the Niger could possibly -discharge itself into the Gulf of Guinea.</p> - -<p>Mungo Park had left one legacy of theory behind -him, viz., that the Niger and the Congo were one. What -was known of his last voyage in nowise helped to disabuse -men of that idea—on the contrary, it obtained -more widely than ever.</p> - -<p>To set at rest once for all this important question, the -Government, undeterred by the disastrous termination -of the last expedition, determined to fit out another on -an even larger scale, and in spite of the dire fate which -had befallen Park and his companions, there were not -wanting plenty of ardent spirits to risk all the dangers -of a similar enterprise.</p> - -<p>To ensure success the expedition was divided into two -parts—one to follow Park’s route more or less closely -and descend the Niger; the other to ascend the Congo, -haply to meet half way, if the fates were propitious.</p> - -<p>Captain Tuckey was the leader of the Congo section; -and along with him went a botanist, a geologist, a -naturalist, a comparative anatomist, a gentleman volunteer, -and fifty of a crew.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span></p> - -<p>The party left England on the 16th February 1816, -and reached the mouth of the Congo in five months and -a half. The impression they received on entering the -river was one of disappointment, the river appearing as -one of second class magnitude instead of the gigantic -stream they had been taught to expect.</p> - -<p>In vain, too, did they look for traces of the great -kingdoms described by the early Portuguese explorers, -or of the churches and cities founded by the Europeans -in the early days of Portuguese national and Christian -enterprise. For the most part they were met only by -the dark depths of malarious mangrove swamps, and -the profound stillness and impenetrable vegetation of -the tropical forest, though here and there in the clearings -were miserable villages, inhabited by idle, good-humoured -natives, with a decided appetite for ardent -spirits—seemingly the only legacy permanently left -behind by the Europeans.</p> - -<p>Pushing up the river, they at length reached the first -cataracts of the Congo, which, instead of proving to be -another Niagara, seemed to their jaundiced eyes “a -comparative brook bubbling over its stony bed”—a -description, needless to say, not confirmed by subsequent -expeditions.</p> - -<p>Unable to proceed further in their boats, Tuckey and -his companions continued the exploration by land, and -in spite of the extreme difficulties they had to encounter -in cutting their way through pathless forests without a -guide, they surmounted the first stretch of falls, and -reached a point where the river widened and presented -no difficulties to navigation. Unhappily, however, the -old story of disease commenced. Three of the principal -men had successively to return to the ship; and finally<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> -Tuckey and his companion Smith, the botanist, abandoned -their projects, seeing their further progress hopeless -in face of so many difficulties and their own helpless -condition under the paralysing influence of disease. -They reached the ship to find their three companions -dead. Smith was the next victim. Finally, overcome -by depression and mental anxiety, Captain Tuckey died -also. How many sailors succumbed we are not told.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile no better luck fell to the lot of the other -section of the expedition.</p> - -<p>On the 14th December, this party, consisting of 100 -men and 200 animals, under the command of Major -Peddie, landed at the mouth of the Rio Nunez, nearly -midway between the Gambia and Sierra Leone. Major -Peddie’s intention was to pass across the narrow part -between the Ocean and the Niger. Hardly had he -landed, however, before the fell demon of disease, which -in its foul lair keeps watch and ward over the fair -expanse of Inner Africa, laid its invisible hand upon -him, and ere the march was begun he found a grave in -the land he had come to explore.</p> - -<p>Under Captain Campbell the expedition experienced -only a succession of disasters. The donkeys rapidly -perished under the hands of men unaccustomed to look -after them. Food was only to be obtained with the -utmost difficulty, and at ruinous prices.</p> - -<p>Arrived near the frontiers of the Fulah country, they -were detained for four months owing to the suspicions -entertained towards them by the king and his people.</p> - -<p>Everything they had began to melt away at an alarming -rate. Soon not a beast of burden was left, and when, -seeing advance hopeless, they turned seawards, their -retreat became one continued story of plunder. Kum<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>ner, -the naturalist, died <i>en route</i>, and Campbell only -reached Kakunda to add his name to the list of victims -to African exploration. The final stroke was given to -the unlucky fortunes of this evidently ill-conducted enterprise -by the death of Lieutenant Stoker, a young naval -officer who assumed command, and was about to make -a new attempt to penetrate the country.</p> - -<p>Clearly African exploration was no light matter, requiring -the making of wills and the setting of earthly -affairs in order for such as put their hand to the work. -Yet strangely enough there was no halting—no dearth -of volunteers. When one died, another was ready to -take his place.</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">“Each stepping where his comrade stood</div> -<div class="i0">The instant that he fell.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>In this spirit Captain Gray, a survivor of Peddie’s -party, made an attempt to follow Park’s track, but got -no further than Bondou, from which, after being detained -for nearly a year, he managed to return to the -coast.</p> - -<p>But what all these various disastrous attempts were -unable to achieve was meanwhile being once more accomplished -by a stay-at-home geographer, James M‘Queen. -The circumstances under which he was attracted to the -subject are in harmony with the romantic character of -African history. A copy of the narrative of Park’s first -expedition found its way into the hands of M‘Queen -while resident in the Island of Grenada, West Indies. -Among the negroes under his charge were several Mandingoes -from the banks of the Niger. One Haussa -negro he came in contact with had actually rowed Park -across the Niger.</p> - -<p>Already imbued with pronounced geographical tastes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> -M‘Queen’s imagination was at once taken captive by -the mystery of the Great River. With all the enthusiasm -of an ardent temperament, he devoted himself to -the solution of the question as thoroughly as Park himself, -though in a very different manner. While, one -after another, explorers toiled and struggled, sickened -and died, with but small result to science, he set about -collecting information from all the negroes and freemen he -met who had come from or even set foot in West Africa. -More especially did he study all the available materials -supplied by Arabs who had travelled and traded in the -Sudan, or by Europeans and natives who, bent on commerce -or discovery, had penetrated to the interior from -the West Coast.</p> - -<p>With extraordinary genius and industry, and admirable -clear-sightedness and judgment, he set in their -true light and pieced together the various items thus -collected relating to the course of the Niger, till he -succeeded in mapping out for himself the broad geographical -features of the whole region through which -it runs. As far back as 1816 the first sketch of his -views was given to the world in a small treatise, in -which he pointed out, as had Richard before him, that -the Niger certainly entered the ocean in the Bight of -Benin. The treatise fell unheeded, however—at least -by the world at large; but undiscouraged, M‘Queen -continued his researches for five years more, and in 1821 -produced a book, “Containing a Particular Account of -the Course and Termination of the Great River Niger -in the Atlantic Ocean.”</p> - -<p>In this interesting work M‘Queen reviews all the -various theories respecting the Niger. He demolishes -Rennell’s opinion that it disappeared in some central<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> -wastes of sand, or becomes evaporated in a series of -swamps under the burning heats of a tropical sun. -The view that it flows east and joins the Nile met a -similar fate before his army of facts. The obstructing -Kong barrier was cleft asunder with a Titan’s strength, -and made to separate instead of join the Congo and -the Niger.</p> - -<p>But the writer was not merely destructive. He could -build as well. With the very weapons with which he -pulled down the theories of the past, he set about constructing -a theory of his own. Laying together fact -upon fact, gathered from every available source, he -traced the course of the Niger in a southerly direction. -Bussa, from being left near Timbuktu, he transported -several hundred miles further south. From the kingdom -of Bornu and adjacent states he gathered together -the various drainage streams, and ran them into a -common channel—the Gir or Nile of the Sudan; but -instead of directing it to the true Nile, as had formerly -been the case when it was believed to be the Niger -itself, he gave it a westerly course south of the Haussa -States and Nyffé (Nupé) to its junction with the Kwora -or Main Niger. Here the Arab writers and traders -failed him, though leaving him without a doubt as to the -ultimate destination of the Central Sudanese waters.</p> - -<p>For the termination, however, he had to seek information -from the Atlantic side. Everything pointed -to the Bight of Benin as the only possible place of -discharge of such a huge river. Here was found an -unknown extent of low flat country and fetid mangrove -swamp, pierced by many-branched anastomosing -creeks. From Calabar to Benin canoes could pass in all -directions by means of these creeks, and it was known<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> -that they extended far into the interior. Though -subject to the ebb and flow of the tide, there was no -question as to the volume of fresh water which moved -seaward, bearing floating islands on its discoloured -floods.</p> - -<p>Supported by a convincing array of facts such as -these, M‘Queen could come to no other conclusion but -that “in the Bights of Benin and Biafra, therefore, -is the great outlet of the Niger, bearing along in his -majestic stream all the waters of Central Africa from -10° west longitude to 28° east longitude, and from the -Tropic of Cancer to the shores of Benin.”</p> - -<p>Never was a piece of arm-chair geography worked out -more admirably. In its broad outlines it was perfectly -correct. To M‘Queen it was as much a certainty as if -he had actually explored and mapped it on the spot.</p> - -<p>Imbued with this faith, he proceeded to point out the -importance of the Niger to the commerce of England -and the future of Africa. With Fernando Po and the -Niger in the hands of his countrymen, he saw Britain -mistress of the fate of the continent. Bussa was to be -the inner key of the situation. “Therefore,” he says, -“on this commanding spot let the British standard be -firmly planted, and no power on earth could tear it up.... -Firmly planted in Central Africa, the British flag -would become the rallying point of all that is honourable, -useful, beneficial, just, and good. Under the mighty -shade thereof the nations would seek security, comfort, -and repose. Allies Great Britain would find in abundance. -They would flock to her settlement, if it had the power -and the means to protect them. The resources of Africa, -and the energies of Africa, under a wise and vigorous -policy, may be made to subdue and control Africa. Let<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> -Britain only form such a settlement, and give it that -countenance, support, and protection which the wisdom -and energy of British councils can give, and which the -power and resources of the British empire can so well -maintain, and Central Africa to future ages will remain -a grateful and obedient dependency of this empire. The -latter will become the centre of all the wealth, and the -focus of all the industry, of the former. Thus the Niger, -like the Ganges, would acknowledge Great Britain as -its protector, our king as its lord.... A city built -there under the protecting wings of Great Britain, and -extended, enriched, and embellished by the industry, -skill, and spirit of her sons, would ere long become the -capital of Africa. Fifty millions of people, yea, even a -greater number, would be dependent on it.”</p> - -<p>These are brave words, truly, about what after all -was merely a “mental discovery,” and taken alone, they -might only evoke a smile, if we did not know that they -are those of a man of no ordinary genius and power of -insight. Looking back seventy years after he wrote, -we can see how truly prophetic he was in most that he -wrote, and that he was no more the blatant patriot than -the geographical dreamer. His genius for looking ahead -was as great as for looking around. Take, for instance, -his warning of the danger of a French advance from the -Senegal to the Niger, and its far-reaching consequence, -if carried out, to our commercial and political position -in West Central Africa. He it was who foresaw nearly -seventy years before its accomplishment the necessity of -a Chartered Company to take full advantage of our (then -prospective) position on the Niger, and the results that -would ensue without such a method of developing the -resources of that region. Of these matters, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> -we shall treat in their proper place. Enough for the -moment if we show how thoroughly M‘Queen had made -himself master of the geographical problems then before -the public, as well as of the political and commercial -situation that was to follow the opening up of the Niger -to European intercourse. Only now, after more than -half a century of gross and irreparable mismanagement -in West Africa, we are waking up to the wisdom of his -views, and striving in some measure to carry them into -effect.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE TERMINATION OF THE NIGER.</i></span></h2> - -<p>Unhappily for the stay-at-home geographer, no matter -how skilfully he may set forth the discoveries made in -his study, his triumph can only come after they have -been demonstrated by actual travel, and even then the -credit that falls to his share is small. The case of -M‘Queen is one in point. We have no evidence that -his theory regarding the Niger’s termination made any -special impression upon the general opinion of the -time. Unfortunately for him, too, his views were published -immediately after several disastrous attempts -from the West Coast to settle the question he had so -ably worked out, so that Government and people alike -were disposed to fight shy of the fatal region.</p> - -<p>Yet with every succeeding failure the attraction of -the mysterious river seemed ever to become greater, -and a stubborn determination was evinced to break -through the deadly belt which hedged in the countries -of the interior. Conquered and rebuffed in one direction, -there was nothing for it but to try another, and -once more the Arab caravan route from Tripoli to the -Sudan was thought of. As has been elsewhere shown, -attempts in this direction had already been made by -other travellers, and all had alike failed. Of these -Horneman alone had penetrated beyond the northern<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> -borderland of the desert, only, however, to disappear -for ever. In every other case these expeditions had -failed at the outset through fatal fevers and Oriental -obstructiveness—what, then, had the traveller to expect, -who, surmounting these initial dangers, found himself -face to face with the terrors of the great Sahara, where -nature in its fiercest aspects reigned supreme, and man -was represented only by wild roving tribes savage as -their environment.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless men there were ready and eager to try -this route, as had been others before them to brave -the dangers of the West Coast.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_290" src="images/i_290.png" width="451" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON.</p></div> - -<p>In 1820 Britain held an exceptionably favourable -position in the councils of the Court of Tripoli, while at -the same time the Basha, thanks to his guns, exercised -a very marked influence over all the Arab, Berber, and -Tibbu tribes lying between his country and the far-distant -regions of the Sudan. Hence any one starting -under the protection of the Basha had a fair guarantee -of success, provided he could withstand the possible onslaughts -of disease, and the terrible privations incidental -to desert marches.</p> - -<p>Encouraged by this favourable state of matters, the -British Government determined to make another attempt -to explore by the Arab route the regions which they had -so signally failed to reach from the Atlantic.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Clapperton—like Park, a Scottish borderer—Dr. -Oudney, and Major Denham, were selected for the -task, and the 18th November 1821 saw them landed in -Tripoli. Little time was lost in making their preparations -and in setting forth for Murzuk in Fezzan, where -they were to make their final arrangements before -plunging into the dread Sahara. Here, though received<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> -kindly enough by the Sultan, they were threatened with -the system of Oriental delays which had proved fatal to -previous travellers. This, however, they were not the -men to brook, and Major Denham promptly returned -to Tripoli to lay a complaint before the Basha. As -promptly he started for England on getting nothing but -promises. This was sufficient to throw the Basha and -his Court into consternation, and vessel after vessel was -despatched to bring back the indignant traveller. They -succeeded in catching him up at Marseilles, and induced -him to return. On his arrival in Tripoli he was informed -that already his escort awaited him at Sokna, -on the borders of the Tripolitan desert.</p> - -<p>Murzuk was triumphantly re-entered on the 30th -October 1822. Clapperton and Oudney were found -much reduced by the fevers, which were here so prevalent -that even amongst the natives anything like a -healthy-looking person was a rarity. To get away -from this dangerously unhealthy place, Bu Khalum, -the leader of the caravan, exerted himself with most -unoriental and praiseworthy energy, though the task -of gathering together the various elements of such a -company as his was no small matter.</p> - -<p>When ready, the party consisted of four Europeans, -and servants to the number of ten, an Arab escort of -210, gathered from the most obedient tribes under the -rule of Tripoli, and a number of merchants and freed -slaves, who brought up the roll to about 300.</p> - -<p>It was the 29th November before the whole party -was ready for the road. The Europeans were in no -very promising plight. They were all more or less -down with fever, and Oudney and Hillman, a carpenter, -were in a specially hopeless condition, considering what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> -was before them. Nevertheless each one was eager and -determined to go on, always hoping in the future, as is -the manner of enthusiasts.</p> - -<p>Almost with the disappearance of the walls, mosques, -and date-trees of Murzuk in their rear, the desert rose -up grim and terrible before them. The second day -saw them among wild wastes of burning billowy sands, -where was seen no living thing, nor other sound heard -than the melancholy sweep of the wind over the endless -tracts of sand. For some days, however, watering-places -were not unfrequent, while here and there small -oases gave a temporary relief to the monotonous landscape, -and afforded a scanty subsistence to Tibbu or -Berber inhabitants, who preferred to face the terror -of the wilderness rather than live under the harsh rule -of Arab masters. With the continued advance southward -the wells grew more scarce, and it became a matter -of congratulation when the day’s march ended beside -one. With the wells went the date-trees and the cultivated -oases, the prowling beast and the wandering -native—only a great yellow expanse perpetually unrolled -its vastness and monotony beneath the brazen canopy of -a cloudless sky.</p> - -<p>Into this realm of Desolation and Death the caravan -now passed, their route marked out by the skeletons -of human beings, ominously indicative of the dangers -ahead and the horrors of the slave trade. As many -as 107 such skeletons were counted by the wayside in -a single march, and 100 were found around one well. -At some places the numbers were beyond calculation. -For days together now there was nothing but desert—hummocky -mounds, painful stone-strewn stretches of -barrenness, and shattered ribs of rock, grim, gaunt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> -and terrible. The wind came like blasts from a furnace, -and from the cloudless sky the sun poured down its -burning rays in a painful flood. Under the influences -of heat, thirst, and fatigue, no word was spoken—even -the camels uttered not a groan, as if conscious of the -dire alternative to not pushing on. At times the -horses’ hoofs crunched through the bones of human -beings who had perished on the march. Night only -brought relief from the hardships of the route. Then -came the clear soothing darkness lit by a myriad stars, -the cool refreshing breezes, and the soft couch of sand, -so inexpressibly welcome to the weary, parched, and -blinded wayfarers.</p> - -<p>Thus the year passed away, and 1823 was ushered in, -bringing promise of a successful issue to the enterprise. -The explorers had now reached a scantily populated -Tibbu country, where, in equal danger from drought, -famine, sandstorms, and the murderous raids and -plundering onslaughts of Berber tribes and passing -caravans, men somehow contrived to wring from the -flinty, almost arid, bosom of mother earth the wherewithal -to keep body and soul together.</p> - -<p>On leaving Bilma, the chief centre of this district, -another desert tract had to be crossed, necessitating -long and harassing marches, under the hardships of -which as many as twenty camels would sink down -exhausted in a single day. This dread region was at -length also safely traversed, and infinite was the relief -and thankfulness of all when towards the end of -January the approach to more fertile tracts was indicated -by the appearance of clumps of grass, and -further on of a few scattered and stunted trees. This -miserable and dingy vegetation looked delightful and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> -refreshing to travellers who for over two weary months -had been in a land of death and desolation. Tibbu -inhabitants, with their flocks and herds, reappeared with -the vegetation, and fresh meat and camel’s milk were -to be had in abundance.</p> - -<p>The caravan had this time reached no mere oasis. -With each day’s march south the country improved in -appearance, till the party found themselves in charming -valleys shaded by leafy trees, festooned with creeping -vines of the Colocynth, while underneath the sheltering -canopy the ground was aglow with many-hued and -brilliantly-coloured flowers. Nor was there lack of -animal life to give animation and variety to the scene. -Hundreds of twittering birds fluttered from tree to -tree, careless of the vultures and kites which gracefully -circled far up in the heavens. From a distance -shy gazelles watched the newcomers with their beautiful -eyes wide-stretched, but ready, if alarmed, to bound away -at a moment’s notice to their forest haunts. The very -sky reflected the softer conditions of nature, and showed -a brighter blue cloud-speckled; and the natives in their -smiling faces and hospitality harmonised with the happier -conditions under which they lived, though from -time to time the ruthless acts of the Arab caravan sent -them flying in terror.</p> - -<p>There was no mistaking the fact that the Sudan—the -country known by hearsay for over four centuries, -but which so far had baffled all attempts to explore it—had -at last been reached. On the 4th February 1823 -the travellers’ eyes were greeted with a sight “so -gratifying and inspiring that it would be difficult for -language to convey an idea of its force. The great -lake Chad, glowing with the golden rays of the sun<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> -in its strength, appeared within a mile of the spot on -which we stood. My heart bounded within me at the -prospect, for I believed this lake to be the key to the -great object of our search (presumably the Niger), and -I could not refrain from silently imploring Heaven’s -continued protection, which had enabled us to proceed -so far in health and strength even to the accomplishment -of our task.”</p> - -<p>Nine days later the river Yeou was discovered flowing -from the west. The name given to it by the Arabs -unlocked the secrets of many geographical misconceptions. -But that it was neither the true Nile nor the -Niger was soon made patent—for, on the one hand, its -course ended in the Chad; and, on the other, its size, -and the reports of the natives, made it clear that it -drained only the eastern Haussa States.</p> - -<p>February 17 was a momentous date in the history -of the expedition, for on that day they reached Kuka, -the capital of Bornu.</p> - -<p>Their entry was made in great state, worthy the -traditions of a powerful semi-civilised Sultan. Several -thousand well equipped and marvellously caparisoned -horsemen awaited the strangers outside the town, and -on seeing them, charged as if with the intention of -annihilating the little band. Suddenly, while at full -gallop, they pulled up right in the faces of the newcomers, -almost smothering them with clouds of dust, -and putting them in some danger from the crowding -of horses and clashing of spears.</p> - -<p>The Sultan’s negroes, as they were called, were specially -conspicuous, “habited in coats of mail composed of -iron chain, which covered them from the throat to the -knees, dividing behind and coming on each side of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> -horse. Some of them had helmets, or rather skull caps, -of the same metal, with china pieces all sufficiently -strong to ward off the shock of a spear. Their horses’ -heads were also defended by plates of iron, brass, and -silver.”</p> - -<p>It would be difficult to give the faintest idea of the -strange sights and scenes which now opened up before -our travellers in the centre of the ancient empire of -Bornu. Nothing more remarkable had ever been seen -by any European explorer—at least in Africa. From -the Sultan and his much-robed courtiers down to the -scantily-draped country people, all were alike interesting. -The teeming life in all its varied forms—Arab, -Berber, Fulah, and negro of twenty different tribes—made -up a picture of strange attractiveness. Not less -interesting were the curious customs, the industries, the -mixture of a considerable degree of civilisation and religious -elevation with the lowest depths of barbarism and -degrading superstition. These were the more marked, -inasmuch as when the English travellers saw Bornu -and its remarkable court, it was just re-emerging from -a temporary eclipse of its national glory. Only a short -time before it had thrown off the temporary domination -of the Fulahs, to whom it had succumbed in their first -irresistible onrush.</p> - -<p>The reception of Clapperton and Denham was exceedingly -promising, and a bright career of discovery seemingly -lay open to them.</p> - -<p>Matters assumed a worse aspect, however, when differences -of opinion arose among the Arabs of the -caravan. They had been despatched as an escort to -the travellers, it is true, but they were not placed -directly under their command. To do absolutely nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> -but look after the safety of the Europeans was as alien -to their conception of duty as the idea of travelling all -the way to Bornu without turning the journey to profitable -account. The majority of them not being merchants, -and therefore not supplied with goods for barter, -had only their weapons to depend upon to recoup them -for their trouble. A slave raid was therefore determined -on, in spite of the opposition and remonstrances of Bu -Khalum and the Europeans. As the Arabs were not -to be turned aside from their project, the leader reluctantly -agreed to go with them, and Denham, finding -himself helpless, resolved to join the party likewise in -order to extend his knowledge of the region.</p> - -<p>The mountains of Mandara, to the south of Bornu, were -chosen as the most suitable spot for a slave hunt, and -thither the raiders proceeded, accompanied by a considerable -contingent of the Bornu army.</p> - -<p>Leaving Kuka in the middle of April, they reached -Mandara towards the end of the month, without any -misadventure. Here they found themselves surrounded -with mountain scenery, which could scarcely be exceeded -for beauty and richness. On all sides interminable -chains of hill closed in the view in rugged -magnificence and picturesque grandeur. Here, too, -nature revelled in its most luxuriant forms among -giant trees almost masked under the wealth of creepers -which wound around the trunks and branches, or hung -in graceful festoons swaying responsive to the passing -breeze. Native villages were everywhere to be seen -perched airily, like eagles’ nests, far up on the rocks -and mountain tops, or nestling in the valleys, hidden -like the wild deer’s lair in the depths of the forest. -Such was the lovely district into which the Arabs had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> -come to bring death, ruin, and slavery. But for once -they had miscalculated their powers, or depended too -much on the co-operation of the Bornu contingent. At -the first attack the invaders drove the natives before -them, but soon they were outnumbered. Bu Khalum -was severely wounded along with the leader of the -Bornuese, and Denham received a wound in the face. -Beaten on all sides, the only safety of the survivors lay -in flight.</p> - -<p>A frightful scene ensued. Denham passed through a -series of the most marvellous escapes, but at last, unhorsed -and unarmed, was seized and stripped, receiving -several wounds from spear thrusts in the process. Seeing -nothing but a cruel death before him, he resolved to -make one more effort to escape, and putting the thought -into action, he slipped below a horse, and started for the -woods, pursued by two Fulah. Reaching the shelter of -the trees, hope revived on his seeing a ravine opening -in front of him, and offering a further chance of life. -As he was on the point of letting himself down the -cliff into the stream, a puff-adder raised its head to -strike. He recoiled horror-stricken, and fell headlong -into the ravine, his fall fortunately made harmless by a -deep pool of water, where, recovering his presence of -mind, three strokes of his arms sent him to the opposite -side, and placed him in comparative safety among the -dense vegetation.</p> - -<p>Shortly after, he met the remnants of the defeated -party, and six days later they re-entered Kuka, after -enduring great hardships.</p> - -<p>For the next few months little of importance was -done to elucidate the geography of the Chad Region. -An expedition westward to Manga was accomplished with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> -less disastrous results than that to the Mandara mountains; -and then the rainy season set in, threatening for -a time to end the days of the European travellers by the -fevers which accompanied it. With the return of the -dry season came renewed health and renewed determination -to add further to their discoveries.</p> - -<p>On the 14th December, Clapperton and Oudney set -forth to visit Kano and the Haussa States in the company -of a trading caravan.</p> - -<p>Two days later a Mr. Toole arrived at Kuka with -fresh supplies for the expedition, at a moment when -they were much needed.</p> - -<p>In the beginning of the year 1824 Denham and Toole -started for the district of Logun with the object of visiting -the Shari River. The project was safely accomplished, -and they found a majestic river 400 yards -broad, flowing from the south and south-west into the -Chad.</p> - -<p>The difficulty of obtaining correct geographical information -from the natives was well illustrated in their -case, it being clear that they confounded with the Shari -a great river (the Benué) they heard of as flowing <i>from</i> -the south and south-west of Mandara, whereas in reality -the latter flows <i>to</i> the west. It is extremely probable, -however, that some sort of connection exists between -them in the wet season.</p> - -<p>At Logun Mr. Toole died.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile Clapperton and Oudney were travelling -towards Kano, and giving shape and form to the confused -and conflicting accounts over which geographers -had quarrelled for a couple of centuries. Unfortunately -on this journey, Oudney, who had never enjoyed good -health from the day he left Tripoli, gradually became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> -worse, and died on the 12th January 1824. Left to -himself, Clapperton passed on to Kano, which he found -to be a town of 30,000 to 40,000 inhabitants, and chiefly -important as a trading and industrial centre, it being -famed as such from the most remote times.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_302" src="images/i_302.png" width="600" height="386" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW IN SOKOTO.</p></div> - -<p>On the 16th of March he reached Sokoto, the capital -of the new Fulah Empire, and there was hospitably -received by Bello, son and successor of the founder. -From Sokoto he hoped to make his way to Yauri and -Nupé, to clear up as far as possible the question of the -course of the Niger. At first everything looked favourable -for his plans, but gradually his hopes vanished, as -every one set about dissuading him from attempting the -journey.</p> - -<p>At last the Sultan himself withdrew his promise of -protection, on the plea of excessive danger to his guest. -In the face of such a decided veto it was useless to -attempt to proceed, though for several weary weeks -Clapperton waited on in the hope that something would -turn up which would open a way for him. No change -for the better occurred, however, and at length he took -leave of Sultan Bello, and returned to Bornu.</p> - -<p>On September 3rd a caravan having been got together, -the homeward journey was commenced.</p> - -<p>In the course of the next four months the Sahara -was safely recrossed, and Tripoli re-entered on the 26th -January, the travellers having been absent nearly three -years on their arduous undertaking.</p> - -<p>This must be considered the most successful African -expedition up to that period—successful alike in its -scientific results and in the extent of country explored -for the first time. Once for all it settled the question -as to the direction in which the mouth of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> -Niger must be looked for. Certainly it neither flowed -east, nor did it end in any known desert or lake. Yet -curiously enough, to judge from the travellers’ maps, -they were still some way behind M‘Queen in their -knowledge of the general geography of the great eastern -tributary of the Niger. Through a misunderstanding -on Clapperton’s part as to the direction of the Benué, -the River Shari was represented as draining its waters -from the west instead of from the south and east. But -perhaps the most valuable result of the expedition was, -that for the first time form and coherence were given -to the geography of the Arab writers and traders, and -exact information collected regarding the remarkable -kingdoms forming the Central Sudan.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE TERMINATION OF THE NIGER—(Continued).</i></span></h2> - -<p>Among the many valuable results arising from Clapperton -and Denham’s expedition, not the least important -was the great encouragement it gave to renewed enterprise. -With the successes of these two explorers the -tide of evil fortune seemed to have turned, and they -had shown that death or failure did not necessarily -meet whomsoever had the temerity to seek to unlock -the secrets of Ethiopia.</p> - -<p>Clapperton, moreover, had brought back with him -from Sokoto the most friendly messages from Bello, -the Sultan, expressive of his desire for direct intercourse -with the British, and pointing out how that -intercourse might best be established by way of the -Niger and the West Coast, to which, he asserted, his -dominions extended. To take advantage of this more -hopeful state of affairs, the British Government organised -another expedition, once more with the object of settling -the vexed question of the Niger termination, and at the -same time opening up a way to the rich provinces of -Sokoto, Bornu, &c.</p> - -<p>Clapperton was again selected as leader, and with him -were associated Captain Pearce and Surgeon Morrison.</p> - -<p>The Gulf of Benin was chosen as the landing point, -the reason being that there they hoped to find the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> -entrance to the river and follow it to Bussa. On their -arrival, however, it was deemed advisable not to lose -time and health among the interminable creeks and -fatal mangrove swamps known to distinguish the probable -delta of the Niger. It was known that Haussa -caravans were in the habit of annually descending -overland to the coast at Badagry, a point a few miles -to the west of what is now known as Lagos. With -much wisdom and common sense Clapperton and his -companions therefore elected to penetrate to the Niger -by this route, and after completing their business with -Sokoto, to descend the river in canoes.</p> - -<p>On the 7th December 1825 the party left the coast. -Hardly, however, had they got beyond earshot of the -Atlantic rollers, when it seemed as if the fate which had -befallen so many earlier ventures was about to overtake -Clapperton’s also. Through imprudently sleeping -in the open air, they were all attacked by fever. -Undismayed and unsubdued, they nevertheless pushed -on, staggering forward as best they might. But there -were limits to their defiance of disease. Morrison gave -in first, and turning to retrace his way to the coast, died -on the road. Captain Pearce was the next victim, and -he, like the soldier who falls in battle with his face -to the foe, dropped on the road, struggling onward to -the last.</p> - -<p>Though now deprived of both his friends, Clapperton -was not yet absolutely alone. He had with him an -English servant named Richard Lander, who, with a -spirit worthy of such a master, faced all the perils and -hardships of the route. Happily, however, by the end -of the month the deadly coast belt was safely passed, -and healthier lands lay before them. They entered the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> -populous country of Yoruba, with its teeming population, -its well cultivated fields, enormous towns, and general -air of prosperity. Through Yoruba they passed in a -semi-triumphal procession, with no greater trouble to -face than the anxiety of the king to keep the white -men in his own capital, or the siren wiles of the widow -Zuma, who, with her colossal charms, sought to woo -them from the path of danger and toil to the flower-strewn -haunts of love and ease. Heedless alike, however, -of kingly favours and full-fed charms—the widow -being fat and twenty—Clapperton held on his way, as -also did Lander, who was as little to be seduced from -his master’s side as his master from the path of duty.</p> - -<p>Clapperton had hoped to reach the Niger at Nupé, -but news of war and bloodshed in that region caused -him to deviate from his intended route and strike the -great river somewhat higher up. As the fates would -have it, he reached the Niger at the very point where -Park had ended at once his voyage and his career. -Clapperton’s reception seemed to belie the story of Amadi -Fatuma as to the manner of Park’s death, but a little -investigation proved beyond a doubt the truth of its -chief particulars. The natives had attacked him under -a misconception as to his nationality, and every one -spoke with regret of the unhappy catastrophe. The -place was pointed out where the boat and crew were -lost.</p> - -<p>At this point the river is divided into three channels, -none more than twenty yards broad when the water is -low. The left branch is the only safe one for canoes, -the other two being broken up by rocks into dangerous -whirlpools and rapids. Bussa itself stands on an island -about three miles long by one and a half broad.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span></p> - -<p>From Bussa, Clapperton passed through Nupé and -across the Haussa States to Kano. Thence he proceeded -to join Bello at Sokoto. He arrived, however, -at an unfortunate time. Civil war and rebellion were -rife on all hands, and it seemed as if the great Fulah -Empire was about to fall to pieces as quickly as it had -been built up. Bello, in consequence, was in a fit state -to listen to all sorts of insinuations as to the causes -which brought the Europeans into his country, and the -results that were likely to follow. Accordingly, Clapperton’s -reception was anything but friendly, and under -the worries consequent on his treatment, and the fevers -by which he was attacked, he at length succumbed on -the 13th April 1827.</p> - -<p>Of the members of the expedition there now remained -only Richard Lander, who had attached himself to Clapperton -with such remarkable fidelity. Three courses -were open to him—to return to England by way of the -desert and Tripoli, to go back by the way he had come, -or thirdly, to attempt to carry out his late master’s -intention of tracing the Niger to its mouth. Lander -was a man of no ordinary intelligence and character, -notwithstanding his subordinate position in life, and as -if Clapperton’s mantle had fallen on him, he elected to -do what he could to complete the unfinished work.</p> - -<p>With this object in view he returned to Kano from -Sokoto, and thence started south to reach the Niger, -being under the belief that the great river in that direction -was the object of his search—while in reality it was -another.</p> - -<p>In this, however, he failed. He had almost reached -the great town of Yakoba, when his progress was -stopped, and he was compelled to return to Kano.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> -Thence he made his way back as he had come through -Yoruba to Badagry, which he reached on the 21st -November 1827.</p> - -<p>The unhappy issue of Clapperton’s second expedition -somewhat chilled African enterprise for the time being. -Our knowledge of the course and termination of the -Niger was left exactly where it had been before—though -it was made more and more clear that from Bussa it -flowed south to Benin. Still the river seemed to lie -under some charm fatal to whomsoever should brave it -and seek to lift the veil.</p> - -<p>The Government began to lose hope, or to conclude that -the deadly nature of the climate rendered the discovery -of the mouth of the Niger one only of geographical importance. -But though they wavered and felt disposed -to give up the task, there were still plenty of volunteers -eager to make one more attempt.</p> - -<p>No matter what the dangers were, Africa had a strange -power of fascination which irresistibly drew men under -its influence; not those merely who had never set foot -on its deadly shore, and who consequently could not fully -realise all that travel in Africa meant, but men who had -seen their companions die beside them on the road, -struck down by disease or the weapon of the savage, -and who had themselves known what it was to be at -death’s door. It is a species of mesmeric influence this -of African travel, irresistibly compelling him who has -once come beneath its spell to return again and again, -even though at last it be to his death.</p> - -<p>Lander was no exception to the rule. He went out -to Africa knowing nothing, and probably caring less, for -the objects of his master’s expedition. But he was of -the right sort to come beneath the fatal charm; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> -with the death of his master he felt himself consecrated -to the work of exploration. In this spirit he returned -to England with Clapperton’s journal, only to offer himself -for one more effort to complete the task the death -of the writer had left unfinished. Such an offer the -Government could not very well refuse, though the -terms promised by them showed that they had but -little faith in a favourable outcome.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_310" src="images/i_310.png" width="468" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RICHARD LANDER.</p></div> - -<p>But Lander was no longer the servant. African -travel had ennobled him and placed him in the roll of -her knight-errantry. He knew no sordid motives, asked -no pay or other remuneration. Success should be his -only reward. His enthusiasm infected his brother John -with a like spirit, and caused him to throw in his fortunes -with him.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span></p> - -<p>The 22nd March 1830 saw the gallant fellows landed -at Badagry. They followed practically the same route -as Clapperton’s expedition to Eyeo, from which they -were compelled to take a circuitous northerly course to -the Niger at Bussa, which they reached in three months -from the coast.</p> - -<p>After having paid a visit to the King of Yauri some -distance up the river, preparations were commenced for -the voyage down to the ocean. With difficulty two -canoes were obtained, but at length, on the 20th September, -everything was ready for departure. Before -pushing clear of the land, the Landers “humbly thanked -the Almighty for past deliverances, and fervently prayed -that He would always be with us and crown our enterprise -with success.” Having thus placed themselves -under Divine protection, the word was given to push -off, and away the canoes glided towards their uncertain -bourne.</p> - -<p>The first part of the voyage lay through a narrow -valley bounded by metamorphic hills, through which the -river wound its way in broad curving reaches, broken -up at times by inhabited islands, which rose precipitously -from the dark waters, and gave variety to the -scene. Majestic trees lined the banks, and lent their -own peculiar charm to the panoramic landscape, while -village and cultivated field spoke of industrious inhabitants. -From the latter they had nothing to fear—on -the contrary, the travellers were everywhere received -hospitably, and sent on their way with prayers for -their safety and food for their wants. A more instant -danger lay in the numerous rocks which thrust their -crests above the water, or more treacherously lay hid -beneath, requiring constant watchfulness.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span></p> - -<p>Soon this rocky section was passed, and the district -of Nupé entered.</p> - -<p>Here the river, emerging from the metamorphic hills, -turns eastward and widens, flowing through a broad -valley whose precipitous sides form the escarpments of -a low sandstone plateau-land. This section is scantily -inhabited and sparsely wooded, on account of the fact -that while the river is in flood, the great plains which -form the bottom of the valley are submerged, and the -river assumes the aspect of a lake.</p> - -<p>Sixty miles further down is a picturesque range of -mountains—now called Rennell’s—shortly after passing -which comes the town of Egga. From thence the -broad valley begins to narrow, and the river to wind -in sharp curves through the low sandstone gorges, till, -turning sharply to the south, it enters a lake-like expanse, -where the Landers found that a large tributary -from the east, which they conjectured to be the Tchadda -or Benué, joined the main stream. This was the river -which Clapperton had confounded with the Shari, -though M‘Queen had worked out its true relationship -to the Niger system.</p> - -<p>Immediately beyond the point of junction, the Niger -leaves the sandstone plateau and passes through a series -of bold picturesque mountains by a narrow gorge, guarded -on either side by isolated peaks and table-topped mountains, -which frown over the waters in defiant, barren ruggedness. -As if to stop all ingress or egress, small islands -and hidden rocks rise in mid-stream, round which the swift -currents of the contracted river angrily sweep and swirl.</p> - -<p>This natural gateway passed, the river expands again -into majestic reaches, sunning its full bosom under the -tropic sun, unbroken by rock or island. The mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> -fall into gentle undulations, and these again into a -limitless, flat expanse, but little raised above the level -of the river. With every mile the vegetation grows -more and more luxuriant, more and more prodigal, till -the primeval forest lies before the traveller in all its -height and depth and solemnity. Never before had the -brothers Lander seen such trees, such a profusion of -shrubs, such a tangle of varied creepers.</p> - -<p>Here and there villages, charmingly adorned with nodding -palms, peeped cosily from their bosky corners in the -dark protecting forest. Near the houses stood or lolled -groups of scantily clothed natives, passing the lazy -hours away in dreamy idleness, as became the lords of -creation. Children, naked as the day they were born, -gambolled in the river like frogs; and women, ever -at work, busied themselves with domestic cares. At -some places battle had been given to the rank luxuriance -of nature, and small clearings made in the forest -for the raising of yams, beans, or sugar-canes.</p> - -<p>Not least inviting in the scene was the Niger itself. -Now it spread before the voyagers like a beautiful lake, -ringed with fringing festooned trees, and flashing brilliantly -under the rays of the tropic sun. Again, far -ahead, the forest frame opened and displayed the serpentine -course of the silvery river, edged with yellow banks of -sand. Canoes were seen gliding swiftly down stream, -or with more laborious paddling were forced upward -against the current. On the banks left by the falling -waters, crocodiles disposed their repulsive length like -rotting logs of wood, while in the deeper pools the -hippos snorted defiance. Waterfowl in great numbers -skimmed along the surface of the water, fished in the -shallows, or rested on <i>terra firma</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span></p> - -<p>The scene was arcadian and fascinating seen from the -river. A closer acquaintance did not enhance its attractiveness. -The voyagers were now among a people far -different from those above the confluence of the Niger -and the Benué (Tchadda). Here were only Pagan -savages, steeped in the lowest barbarism, and ruled by -the grossest superstition. Murder and plunder were in -congenial union with fetishism and cannibalism, and -hospitality was unknown. Only by force could Lander -get his men to venture into this dangerous region. -That their fears were not mere fancies was speedily -proved on the very first occasion of landing, and again -later on they only escaped utter destruction, to fall into -semi-captivity to a party of men in large canoes who -were up river ready to trade with the strong, and to -attack and plunder the weak.</p> - -<p>The travellers now found themselves among people -who came from near the sea, and who had not only heard -of, but had actually traded with Europeans. It was -therefore in no despondent mood that they submitted -to their fate, and proceeded on their way, the captives -of the Ibo.</p> - -<p>Soon it was clear that the delta of the river had been -reached. From being a united volume of water it began -to break up into numerous branches, running in all -directions. At the apex of the delta the land was dry, -and clad with palm oil groves and silk cotton trees. -Gradually, however, these disappeared, and as the dry -land gave place to hybrid swamp, the mangrove asserted -its ownership. Nature then showed as repulsive an -aspect as is to be met with in any other region on the -face of the globe—what was swamp when the tide was -out resembling a submerged forest when the tide was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> -in, and both then and at all other times, reeking with -pestilential vapours from the slimy mud oozing from -between the octopus-like roots of the mangrove.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_315_large.png"><img id="i_315" src="images/i_315.png" width="600" height="339" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">AKASSA.</p></div> - -<p>In passing through this foul region the travellers had -little reason to wonder that no one had ever ventured -to explore the labyrinthine creeks and river branches -which penetrated the mangrove in all directions, but -seemed to lead to nowhere in particular.</p> - -<p>On the 24th November 1830 the dull thunder of the -Atlantic rollers breaking on the shore came like sweetest -music to the travellers’ ears, growling a gruff but hearty -welcome, and soon the sea itself lay before them—its -cool healthy breezes fanning them with delicious touch, -its gleaming limitless expanse fair as a glimpse of -heaven.</p> - -<p>The Niger mystery was solved at last, and the river -portals thrown wide open to the world, never again to -be closed.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>FILLING UP THE DETAILS.</i></span></h2> - -<p>While Clapperton and Lander were thus bringing the -work of Park to a successful conclusion, and proving -the accuracy of M‘Queen’s geography of the Niger basin, -there were others at work in the region which the -labours and death of their great pioneer had made -classic ground. Major Laing, in the course of a Government -mission, had travelled from Sierra Leone to Falaba, -in the country of Sulima, and ascertained that the Niger -took its rise in the Highlands of Kurauka, some 70 -miles south-west of Falaba, and not more than 150 -miles east of Sierra Leone. The river itself he was prevented -from reaching, but none the less did he come -under the irresistible influence of its fascination.</p> - -<p>More than ever had Timbuktu and the Niger become -names to conjure with, as well as to infect men with a -species of reckless self-sacrifice that no amount of past -experience, prudence, or common sense could dispel. As -in the case of Lander, and others of his predecessors, -having once tasted the bitter-sweet of African exploration, -there could be no rest for Major Laing until he -had gathered again the magic fruit. Accordingly, after -an interval of three years, he once more set forth, determined -to carry his cherished dreams into realisation.</p> - -<p>Timbuktu and the Upper Niger were the goals of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> -journey. Like Denham and Clapperton, he took Tripoli -as his starting-point. Thence he passed south-west to -Ghadamis and the oasis of Twat. Between the latter -and Timbuktu lay the wild wastes of the Sahara—never -trodden by man without extreme risk of encounter -with plunder and bloodshed-loving nomads, and death -from thirst or privation. Even these factors of an -African journey had their wild attraction for men of -Laing’s temperament, adding a <i>sauce piquante</i>, as it were, -to the otherwise monotonous march and daily routine -of worry and privation. To such, too, the frowning -immensity of the Sahara—the frightful desolation -which marks its every feature—and the flaming sun -and lurid heavens that hang above it, have elements -which strike them with the profoundest feelings of awe, -and leave an indelible impress on their minds.</p> - -<p>For sixteen days after leaving Twat, Laing underwent -all these sensations in their most striking form; -and that his experiences of desert travel might be complete, -he was attacked at night by a party of Tuareg -marauders, and left for dead, with no less than twenty-four -wounds. Thanks, however, to the secret elixir of -heroic minds and the soundness of his constitution, he -miraculously recovered, and undismayed, continued his -way to Timbuktu, which was reached on the 18th August -1826.</p> - -<p>Laing was the first European who had ever entered -that historic city, which for four centuries had been -the loadstone of kings, merchants, and savants. He -arrived in an unhappy hour. Only a short time before -the first waves of the approaching tide of Fulah influence -had entered the region of the Upper Niger. -Already Timbuktu had felt its strange power, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> -resenting the political position usurped by the ministers -of the new revival.</p> - -<p>For a month Laing was allowed to remain unmolested. -Then he was ordered to leave the city of the -Faithful. There was no resisting the mandate, and he -passed forth on the 22nd September, only to be foully -murdered two days later by the people who had undertaken -to escort him across the desert. With him -unfortunately perished the records of his observations -and inquiries.</p> - -<p>Two years later, Caillé, a somewhat illiterate, though -persevering and intrepid Frenchman, entered the city -from which Laing had been driven forth. Years before, -this young explorer, in his far-off French home, had -heard the echoes of African enterprise. Inflamed with -the romantic story, he had seen by the blank maps of -the continent how much there was to be done, and what -fame there was to be acquired by him who could make -his mark on those still virgin sheets. To be an African -traveller became thenceforth the object of his life. For -years he dreamed of and prepared himself for the work. -But it was one thing to dream of—one thing even to -reach the threshold of new lands—and quite another to -penetrate them, as he soon found. Time after time -his hopes, when almost at the point of realisation, were -rudely dashed to the ground; but uncrushed, he waited -his time and opportunity, though without private means, -and conscious that the ears of the wealthy and the powerful -were deaf to his schemes and representations.</p> - -<p>But while Caillé dreamed and petitioned he also -worked. As a subordinate official under the Government -of Sierra Leone, he was enabled by dint of economy and -industry to save the sum of £80. To him this slender<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> -sum appeared the “open sesame” of fame and fortune. -It was the instrument whereby he should open the -oyster shell, and gain the priceless pearl within.</p> - -<p>On the 19th April 1827, Caillé left Kakundy, on the -River Nunez, and midway between Sierra Leone and the -Gambia, in the company of a small caravan of Mandingoes. -Travelling east, he crossed the country of -Futa Jallon, through which northward ran the upper -tributaries of the Senegal, and eastward those of the -Niger. The latter river was reached at Kurusa, in -the district of Kankan, and was found to be even there -a fine stream from eight to ten feet deep.</p> - -<p>Having crossed the Niger, he continued east to the -country of Wasulu, a well cultivated and thickly inhabited -region. Thence he travelled north-east, till at -length he again reached the banks of the Niger, a short -distance to the west of Jenné. This town he was the -first European to enter, though Park had seen it on his -last journey.</p> - -<p>From Jenné, Caillé sailed down the Niger in a rudely -built vessel of considerable dimensions to Kabara, the -port of Timbuktu, whence he proceeded on horseback -to the city itself.</p> - -<p>The aspect of Timbuktu in nowise realised the glowing -anticipations of the traveller. Instead of the wealthy -and powerful city, touched with the glamour of the -shining orient, which he had been taught to expect, -there lay before him only a collection of miserable mud -buildings, among which rose several mosques, looking -imposing only in comparison with the rude huts -around them. To the north-east and south spread the -immensity of the great desert as one vast plain of -burning, repellent sands, over which the silence of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> -death brooded, except where pariah dogs or loathsome -vultures feasted on the carrion or offal thrown out of -the town. Such was the place in which Commerce had -established her Central African emporium, and gathered -together the trading veins and arteries which ramified -more or less throughout the whole of North-eastern -Africa. Here, too, amid these dreary wastes, Moslem -learning had made her seat; and here the religion of -Islam had found an abiding centre from which to radiate -its influence into the most barbarous depths of negro -Africa.</p> - -<p>Seen thus in relation to its surroundings, its position, -and its functions, the mud huts and rudely built mosques -which compose it acquire a tinge of the sublime, and -strike the imagination more even than the stupendous -wonders of a London or a Paris.</p> - -<p>For a fortnight Caillé—secure in his disguise—remained -in Timbuktu, after which he set forth with a -caravan to cross the desert to Morocco. Along no -other part of the Sahara does the desert appear in -such a terror-striking aspect. Through one tract the -caravan had to travel with all possible expedition for -ten days, not a drop of water being obtainable. The -privations endured were indescribable, men and animals -alike being reduced to the direst extremity before water -was reached and their tortures assuaged. Further north -similar experiences awaited them, till the caravan arrived -at the River Dra. Thence the march was performed -with comparative comfort by way of Tafilet and the -Atlas to Fez and Tangier, where Caillé arrived on the -18th August 1828.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_323_large.png"><img id="i_323" src="images/i_323.png" width="600" height="379" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">TIMBUKTU.</p></div> - -<p>With Lander’s descent of the Niger from Bussa to -the sea, the course of Niger enterprise received a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> -new development and impetus. The glowing accounts -brought back by its explorers of the rich lands and -powerful civilised kingdoms through which it flowed -found eager hearers in England; and now that an -entrance had been found by which the heart of these -promising regions could be reached, such hearers were -not slow to act and test in a practical fashion the commercial -value of the great waterway.</p> - -<p>In this new movement Macgregor Laird, of Liverpool, -was the leading spirit. Under his instructions two -steamers were specially constructed for the work. Laird -himself took command, and with him were associated -Lander, and Lieutenant Allen of the navy, with Dr. -Briggs and Mr. Oldfield as medical attendants.</p> - -<p>Hardly had the party entered the Nun branch of the -river, in August 1832, when the malaria commenced its -ravages, causing the death of a captain and two seamen. -The first business of the expedition was to find a suitable -navigable channel among the many bewildering branches, -creeks, and backwaters which spread a labyrinthine -network over the delta, whose mangrove swamps were -“uninviting when descried, repulsive when approached, -dangerous when examined, and horrible and loathsome -when their qualities and their inhabitants were known.” -Here the air reeked with the essence of poisonous odours—damp, -clammy, and deadly; and the nights were made -hideous by the never-ceasing attacks of clouds of mosquitoes -and sandflies.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_326" src="images/i_326.png" width="600" height="177" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW OF THE NIGER ABOVE LOKOJA.</p></div> - -<p>For six weeks Laird was engaged in his exploration -of the delta, with the result that eighteen men succumbed -to fever. For a time the expedition threatened -to end in the death of the entire party, hardly one -escaping the dire effects of the malaria. But Laird and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> -his companions were men not easily discouraged or defeated, -and at length they got away from the deadly -area, and reached the undivided -river and healthier -upper regions. It was like -an escape from a loathsome -purgatory to an earthly -paradise, when the party -sailed into the open reaches -of the noble stream, barred -in by tropic forest and -swept by cooling breezes. -Viewed commercially,however, -the prospect proved -somewhat unsatisfactory, -and did not correspond -with the glowing hopes -with which the party had -left England. There was -no thought, however, of -giving way to the first -feeling of disappointment, -and in the belief that -matters would improve -once beyond the barbarous -zone, they continued -their way up the river. -Unfortunately, they had -chosen the wrong time of -the year to make the ascent. -Already the river -was falling. More than once the larger of the two -steamers grounded on sand-banks, and finally had to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> -laid up till the rising of the waters should set in once -more. Attempts to reach Rabba signally failed, though -Laird ascended the Benué some distance in a boat.</p> - -<p>In the following season Oldfield and Lander were -more successful. The Benué was ascended to a distance -of 104 miles before they were compelled to return from -want of supplies. On the Main Niger they were also -more fortunate than in the previous year. Rabba was -safely reached, and found to contain a population little -short of 40,000, being at that time the capital of Nupé.</p> - -<p>Beyond Rabba it was found impossible to proceed, -and it was deemed advisable to return to the coast, to -recruit and prepare for another attempt to establish a -trade in the river.</p> - -<p>This new venture, however, ended in disaster. On -the way back Lander was shot, and was only kept alive -till Fernando Po was reached. With him ended for -the time being Macgregor Laird’s enterprise. Though -carried out with splendid persistence and self-sacrifice, -its results were sadly negative, while out of the forty-nine -Europeans who had been engaged in it only nine -survived the fevers.</p> - -<p>For several years nothing more was done to turn what -was only too well named “the white man’s grave” to -further account. In 1840, however, Governor Beecroft -ascended the river to within thirty miles of Bussa, and -got back without much loss of life, though adding but -little to our knowledge of the geography of the region.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile philanthropists were as much interested -in the opening up of the Niger basin to European -influence as was the commercial world. Laird’s expedition, -though having trade as its primary object, -“hoped also to aid in suppressing the slave trade, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> -introducing true religion, civilisation, and humanising -influences among natives whose barbarism had hitherto -been only heightened by European connection.”</p> - -<p>These unselfish aims were further emphasised in 1841, -when the Government, still undaunted by the fatal character -of the work, sent out three steamers with the object -of making treaties with the Niger chiefs for the suppression -of the slave trade. A model farm was to be established -at the confluence of the Benué and the main -river, to teach the natives better methods of agriculture, -and generally the foundations were to be laid of the -great British Empire of which M‘Queen had dreamed. -Thus, in some small way, expiation was to be made -for the sins of earlier generations. Everything that -science and forethought could suggest was done to make -this expedition a success, but unhappily no way had -yet been found to ward off the insidious attacks of -malaria, or counteract the effects of the fever germs once -they had gained a footing in the system. The result -was death and disaster. No higher point than Egga -was reached, and that only by one steamer. Out of -one hundred and forty-five men, forty-eight died within -the two months the vessels were in the river.</p> - -<p>The project of turning the Niger to profitable account, -in the face of such frightful mortality and deadly climatic -conditions, seemed now to be utterly hopeless. From -Major Houghton downwards, death by violence, privation, -or disease had been the fate of whoever had -attempted to open it up to European influence. No -other river had such a romantic history of heroic self-sacrifice—none -such a martyr roll—none such a record of -heroism and precious blood apparently uselessly thrown -away.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span></p> - -<p>Was it really all in vain? Was neither the European -nor the native to derive any benefit from the -exploration of this silvery streak through the beautiful -West Coast Highlands, the densely populated plains of -Sego and Massina, the depopulated half desert wilderness -of Songhay and Gandu, the forest depths of Igara -and Ado, and the mangrove swamps around the Bight -of Benin. Were Park, Clapperton, Lander, and all the -other explorers of the Niger basin, only to be remembered -in future ages for the heroic virtues they had -shown, and not as the pioneers of a new era of hope -to the African—the founders of a great national -enterprise, bright with promise alike to Britain and to -Africa?</p> - -<p>The thought of such an ending was not to be entertained -without reluctance, yet it seemed inevitable. -Savage opposition and ordinary physical difficulties -might in time be overcome, but who could fight -against the disease which lurked unseen in the fœtid -depths of mangrove forests, and filled the air with its -poisonous germs? Who could avoid the incurable -blight of its deadly breath?</p> - -<p>Already such questions had been asked, when the -failure of Tuckey’s expedition gave pause for a time -to Niger exploration, till Clapperton and Denham, -attacking the region from the rear, had made the despondent -once more hopeful. Strangely enough, the -recurrence of the same crisis brought with it a similar -cure.</p> - -<p>In 1849 an expedition set forth from Tripoli, under -Government auspices this time, commanded by Richardson, -and Drs. Barth and Overweg.</p> - -<p>The frontiers of Bornu were safely reached, and here<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> -the party divided—never to meet again. Richardson -and Overweg went the way of Toole and Oudney, and -only Barth was left to carry out the objects of the -expedition. Right worthily he performed his task. -Never before had such a rich harvest of geographical, -historical, ethnographical, and philological facts been -gathered in the African field of research.</p> - -<p>From Kanem to Timbuktu, from Tripoli to Adamawa, -he laid the land under contribution. Vain would it be -in the restricted space of these pages to follow him in -his wonderful travels. It may be noted, however, that -while travelling south-west from Kuka in Bornu to the -Fulah province of Adamawa, he reached on the 18th -June 1851 the river Benué, at its junction with the -Faro, and 415 geographical miles in a direct line from -its confluence with the Niger. Not since leaving -Europe had he seen so large and imposing a river. -Even at this distant point the Benué, or “Mother of -Waters,” is half a mile broad, and runs with a swift current -to the west. It was said to rise nine days’ journey -to the south-east, while the Faro came from a mountain -seven days’ journey distant.</p> - -<p>Only second in importance to his discovery of the -Benué so far to the east of the Niger, was his exploration -of the great bend of the Niger itself.</p> - -<p>Travelling from Bornu, he passed west through -Sokoto and Gandu to the Niger at Say, some distance -above the point where the Gulbi-n-Gindi from Sokoto -joins the main river.</p> - -<p>From Say he travelled in a north-easterly direction -across the great bend, among wild Tuareg tribes, and -the romantic mountains of Hombori, to Timbuktu. -Thence he once more returned to the safer Haussa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> -States along the river banks, whereon no European eye -save Park’s had ever before rested. Here he was in the -centre of the once wonderful Songhay Empire, of which -the sole relics left after the destructive blows of Moor, -Tuareg, and Fulah, were a few miserable villages, whose -inhabitants eked out a wretched existence, equally -ground down by drought and the ravages of human -marauders.</p> - -<p>One result of Barth’s discovery of the Benué so near -Lake Chad was the despatch of another expedition, to -determine if possible the navigability of the river, a -point which previous attempts had failed to settle satisfactorily.</p> - -<p>Macgregor Laird was again the leading spirit in this -new enterprise, and anything that past experience could -suggest was taken advantage of to ensure a successful -trip. Dr. Baikie, R.N., and D. J. May, R.N., went as -surveying officers and leaders, several other gentlemen -being associated with them. This in some respects was -the most successful of the Government surveying expeditions, -for it not only explored and surveyed the Benué -for a distance of 340 miles, but returned without any -special loss of life.</p> - -<p>With this trip practically closed our Government’s -participation in the work of opening up the Niger. -Thenceforth it contented itself with sending from time -to time a gunboat into the river on some punitive mission, -but no special attempts were made to further enlighten -the world as to its geography and resources. -Henceforth all such work was left to private enterprise, -Government remaining aloof, disposed neither -to encourage nor discourage, but clearly satisfied that -nothing of importance could be made of a partially<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> -navigable river, flowing through a country of seemingly -no great commercial capabilities, and with a climate -which made colonisation out of the question, and even -a residence, however short, almost impossible to the -average European.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE FRENCH ADVANCE TO THE NIGER.</i></span></h2> - -<p>With the practical withdrawal of our Government -from Niger enterprise, M‘Queen’s magnificent dream -of British Empire in the heart of Africa seemingly -vanished for ever. A new school of politicians appeared -in our national councils who had so little read -the secrets of our country’s greatness, that their cry -was for no more foreign expansion—no more colonial -responsibilities.</p> - -<p>The influence of the retrograde movement soon began -to tell on the fortunes of West Africa. Already its -natural development had been retarded by a deadly -climate, a scarcity of valuable products, and the barbarity -and laziness of its inhabitants. To these were -now added Government neglect and mismanagement. -Administrators and governors were told to restrict their -operations to the narrowest limits. Merchants were -either debarred access to the interior, or informed that -they would advance at their own risk, and with no hope -of Government support. Geographical enterprise shared -in the general blight. The work of exploring a region -which had become classic through the travels and -martyred lives of so many of Britain’s most worthy -sons was stopped.</p> - -<p>Needless to say, such a policy led to disgraceful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> -results. British influence was confined to the coast -region, there to eke out a miserable political and -commercial existence among its deadly swamps; our -governors were given the old woman’s task of administering -ludicrously unsuitable laws, or palavering over -petty disputes with still more petty tribal chiefs; our -merchants, thanks to the conditions under which they -were placed, became degraded into barterers of gin, rum, -tobacco, gunpowder, and guns, the best Europe had to -give in return for Africa’s oils, gold, and ivory. But -while we were thus degenerating into an invertebrate -abortion of British colonial genius, fit occupant of slimy -swamps and fever-breeding jungles, a continental rival -was preparing to step into our shoes, and reap the -reward of our former labours.</p> - -<p>Almost coincidently with the practical throwing up -of our work on the Lower Niger, the French began -to bestir themselves on the Senegal, and cast longing -eyes towards Bambarra and the Upper Niger. They -too began to dream of Central African Empire—as -once M‘Queen had done—and to see far off in the -future their flag supreme from the Mediterranean -coast line of Algiers to the shores of the Atlantic. -The key of the situation they clearly saw lay in the -Niger. Once established there, with the necessary -openings to the west, they would have command of -the whole of the Western Sudan, and possibly also of -the Central Region.</p> - -<p>With patient foresight they began to send explorers -along the line of proposed conquest, carrying with them -ready-made treaties, French flags, and blank maps. -Already French influence had made itself felt far up -the river, and forts had been established in the very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> -earliest days of their rule. Such of the latter as had -fallen into ruins or had been deserted were once more -occupied and repaired, and new advance posts were -pushed further into the heart of the country.</p> - -<p>Soon they had firmly established themselves as high -up the Senegal as the point where Park in his first -expedition had crossed it on his way to Kaarta. This -was the limit of the river’s navigability in the wet -season. But no consideration of natural difficulties -gave limit to their dream of power.</p> - -<p>In 1863, two officers, E. Mage and Dr. Quintin, -prospected a way to the Niger across the intervening -highlands lying between the two rivers. French arms -were not slow to follow where French explorers led, -and speedy preparations were made to complete the -base of operations for the final advance to their promised -land.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile our representatives on the coast, stewing -in their miserable, disease-stricken belt, were not blind -to the progress being made by our enterprising neighbours, -nor unaware of their vast designs of conquest -and commercial monopoly, and the probable result to -England’s political and commercial position in these -regions. In vain they drew the attention of the Home -Government to the situation, and asked for power to act -before it was too late. They were but as voices crying -in the wilderness, to which as little heed was paid as -gives the Bedouin to the desert mirage. More than -that, the coast authorities were told to let the French -go where they liked, and not to throw any obstacles in -their way.</p> - -<p>The French were not slow to take advantage of the -field thus left open to them. By 1880 their line of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> -forts on the Senegal was completed, and everything -ready for their next move. For this enterprise Captain -Gallieni was appointed leader, and at the head of a -small army of drilled troops, and a considerable train -of donkeys, native drivers, native servants, &c., he -started in 1880 on his mission of planting the French -flag on the Upper Niger, where, from our geographical -position and priority of exploration, the Union Jack -alone should have floated.</p> - -<p>As far as the confluence of the Bakhoy and the -Bafing, the march of Gallieni was attended by nothing -worse than the usual amount of worry and trouble -incident to the passage of a small army through a -barbarous or semi-barbarous country. Beyond, however, -lay the unoccupied and but partially explored -country between the Senegal and the Niger. Here the -special trials and cares of the expedition commenced. -Food was often obtained with difficulty. Their advance -was naturally viewed with suspicion by the natives, -and much care and tact was required to prevent friction. -In spite of all obstructions, however, they -gradually pushed south towards their goal, leaving -French flags in the hands of the chiefs, and bearing -with them treaties placing the latter and their people -under the protection of France.</p> - -<p>Before the Niger was reached the expedition came -near being destroyed by a determined attack made on -it by a people called Beleris. The Beleris were successfully -repulsed, however, and two days later Bammaku -on the Niger was reached, where already the tricolour -was found floating—an advance section of the party -having succeeded in concluding the customary treaty. -By what means the treaty was obtained we are not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> -told, though we do learn that Gallieni’s reception was -cold and inhospitable.</p> - -<p>It now only remained to get to Sego, to see the -Suzerain of the Upper Niger chiefs and kings, and -conclude a treaty with him. For this purpose Gallieni -crossed the Niger and travelled along the south side of -the river. On his arrival in the neighbourhood of the -capital, he was stopped, and ordered to remain where -he was, till his business was settled. Many weary -weeks and months were passed in the attempt to get -Amadu, the Sultan of Sego, to sign a treaty, placing -his country under a French protectorate. In the end -the necessary signature was obtained, and from that -moment French rule—on paper—was supreme from -the sources of the Niger to Timbuktu.</p> - -<p>France, however, was by no means inclined to be -satisfied with a merely mental recognition of her -authority. With splendid energy and perseverance she -pushed forward her forts into the valley of the Bakhoy—the -watershed of the two rivers; and finally built herself -an abiding habitation on the Niger itself. At the -same time a railway was commenced, having for its -object the connection of the highest navigable point of -the Senegal with Bammaku. At the same time a gunboat -was carried over in sections, and put together on -the river, as a further symbol of French authority, and a -potent instrument to spread its influence.</p> - -<p>To further secure their prize from the possible results -of the awakening of the British Government, France -set about isolating the River Gambia by a cordon of -treaties, leaving the waterway British, but making all -else French. To make her position yet more strong, -all the countries towards the upper tributaries and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> -sources of the Niger were placed under French protection, -and almost the entire coast line from the Gambia -south to Sierra Leone was taken possession of. And -through it all our Government peacefully slept on, -having left orders not to be awakened; or it woke up -only to blink approval, delighted to be rid of the whole -troublesome business.</p> - -<p>Sixty years before M‘Queen had written—“France is -already established on the Senegal, and commands that -river, and if the supineness and carelessness of Great -Britain allow that powerful, enterprising, and ambitious -rival to step before us and fix herself securely on the -Niger, then it is evident that with such a settlement in -addition to her command of the Senegal, France will -command all Northern Africa. The consequences cannot -fail to be fatal to the best interests of this country, and -by means surer than even by war and conquest, tend -ultimately to bring ruin on our best tropical colonial -establishment.”</p> - -<p>What M‘Queen had feared, had now come to pass, -as regards the political aspect of the action of the -French in the Niger kingdoms. It still remains to -be seen what is to be the commercial outcome of their -African dream.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE ROYAL NIGER COMPANY.</i></span></h2> - -<p>It has ever been a good thing for British commercial -enterprise that its agents have never had to rely on -their Government to pioneer new trade routes, and -secure for them unexploited territory. Our merchants -have required nothing but a free hand to cut out their -own paths, and that the fruits of their labours should -not be taken from them by the political action of other -nationalities. What has been accomplished on these -terms let half our colonies say.</p> - -<p>The above rule, though general, has not been invariably -applied, as witness the case of West Africa, already -described, in which, as the result of Government -restriction and interference, the harvest of British labour -has passed into French hands, and commercial enterprise -has become crushed and degraded along with the -regions in which it has been carried on.</p> - -<p>Happily for our position in West Central Africa, the -Niger basin never fell under these blighting influences. -When our Government withdrew from that region it -withdrew completely, otherwise there would have been -yet another chapter of lamentable mal-administration -and gross betrayal of a nation’s trust to add to the annals -of West African history.</p> - -<p>The Niger was thus left free to be made the most of -by the operations of private enterprise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span></p> - -<p>For a few years after Baikie’s expedition nothing -more was done to establish a trade in the river. Not that -the task was abandoned as hopeless. On the contrary, -new plans were germinating and steadily taking shape -and form preparatory to renewed attempts under more -hopeful conditions.</p> - -<p>By this time people had begun to realise more -thoroughly the nature of a tropical life, and knew -better how to fight the insidious and dangerous influences -of excessive heat and moisture, and the germs -of disease they fostered. By substituting quinine for -the lancet in the treatment of fever, that hitherto deadly -disease had been robbed of half its terrors.</p> - -<p>Once more Macgregor Laird—a name that must be -bracketed with those of Park, M‘Queen, and Lander—was -the leader in the new movement. Undaunted by -past losses and failures—on the contrary, shown by -their teaching how victory was to be achieved—he -again entered the Niger in 1852—this time not to leave -it till he had laid the permanent foundations of British -commercial influence.</p> - -<p>In this new enterprise the pioneer did not restrict -himself to mere voyages up the river and passing calls -at the chief marketing centres. He established stations -at various points, in the form of movable hulks moored -in the river, which had the double advantage of being -capable of removal bodily, and of providing a certain -measure of security from hostile attack. At the same -time, profiting by past experience of the deadly nature -of the climate, the number of European agents was -reduced to a minimum, and educated coast natives were -employed instead.</p> - -<p>Palm oil, ivory, and Benni-seed were the sole pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>ducts -exported—cotton goods, metals of various kinds, -beads and salt, being the chief articles given in exchange. -Nearer the coast, gin, rum, gunpowder, and -guns were largely in demand, as a result of the old -shameful days of slave dealing. A profitable trade was -soon established, and before many years Macgregor Laird -had to compete with new firms who sought to share the -profits.</p> - -<p>But though the Europeans thus increased in numbers, -their position continued to be extremely precarious. The -cannibal tribes of the delta were not slow to recognise -that their monopoly of the trade of the upper river -was being completely abolished, and they sought to bar -the way by incessant attacks on the steamers and stations -of the various traders. These having conflicting interests, -could not be made to combine for common action against -the common enemy. From time to time a gunboat paid -a hurried punitive visit, but produced no permanent -impression upon the refractory inhabitants.</p> - -<p>The result of this divided action on the part of the -traders, and the growing power and truculence of the -native tribes, was extremely disastrous for Macgregor -Laird, who eventually was forced to retire from the -river.</p> - -<p>Along with the growing dangers to the various houses -engaged in the Niger trade, new troubles began to loom -up before them, retarding the proper and healthy commercial -development of the region, and threatening all -in a common ruin. At first the field to be exploited -was so large that the traders came but little into conflict. -Gradually, however, with the entrance of new firms, -and the planting of new stations, they began to encroach -on each other’s districts. The result was soon seen in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> -the keen competition which ensued. The price of -native produce began to go up, till it threatened to rise -above its value. To keep the trade going profitably the -agents were forced to become more and more unscrupulous -as to the nature of the articles of import—more -and more regardless of the claims of their commercial -competitors. Each sought to drive the other -out, and the natives, not slow to see the advantages -to themselves, did their best to encourage the strife. -Under such conditions all legitimate progress was rendered -impossible. At any given point the inhabitants -were in a position to say, Thus far shalt thou go and no -further, or could clear the merchants out if they thought -fit. Enterprise requiring considerable outlay was out -of the question when the fruits were probably to be -reaped only by rivals. The trade, from being restricted -to useful articles, was rapidly degenerating, so as largely -to include vile spirits and weapons of destruction. -Gradually the conditions of competition were making -a wholesome trade an impossibility, and the natives, -instead of being bettered spiritually and materially by -European intercourse, were being driven down into -deeper depths of barbarism. A state of things which -our prophet M‘Queen had foretold in these memorable -words—“If this erroneous policy is pursued, then to -the latest period of time the central and southern parts -of that vast continent are doomed to remain in the same -deplorable state of ignorance, degradation, and misery -which has been their lot during the lapse of three -hundred years.”</p> - -<p>This was a consummation of their labours which -the merchants could not contemplate with equanimity. -That they were honourable men we have no reason to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> -doubt. True, they went to the Niger in order to make -money, but they had no thought of growing wealthy on -the ruin and degradation of the people among whom -they traded. They had become the victims of the circumstances -under which their business was carried on, -whereby they were driven irresistibly and even unwittingly -into the deplorable situation in which they -at length found themselves. In a manner they were -more to be pitied than blamed, for they had conjured up -a Frankenstein that threatened to be their ruin. To -one and all it was alike clear that as long as open unregulated -competition lasted, the character of the trade -could not be altered—must indeed go from bad to worse—their -profits become less and less, and their footing -in the country more precarious, subject as it was to the -whims, enmities, extortions, and restrictions of the barbarous -tribes, armed by the traders themselves with guns -which on occasion were turned against the vendors.</p> - -<p>A turning point in the commercial history of the -Niger had been reached, and everything now depended -on the course pursued whether the next departure would -be for the weal or for the woe of all concerned.</p> - -<p>Happily the right man was forthcoming at this -critical juncture, when the necessity of a change was -evident to all. Clear-headed, far-seeing business men -were in the trade—the peers among British merchants -wherever engaged; but something more was wanted in -him who should extricate his fellows from the difficult -situation in which they had placed themselves. Some -one was needed who, with business instincts and knowledge, -should combine the <i>savoir faire</i> and knowledge -of the world of the diplomatist. Such an one was Sir -George T. Goldie—then Mr. G. Goldie Taubman—a name<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> -which, like that of Macgregor Laird, must ever rank -in the galaxy of great names associated with the annals -of Niger enterprise.</p> - -<p>At the time Sir George Goldie joined the Central -African Company of London, the only other houses in -the river were Messrs. Miller & Co., Glasgow, the -West African Company of Manchester, and Mr James -Pinnock of Liverpool. Trade was carried on as far -north as Egga, though commercially the Benué still -remained a closed river. A visit to the seat of operations -was sufficient to make Sir George aware of the -exact situation, and the absolute necessity of a change, -if a legitimate and at the same time profitable trade -were to be continued. The other firms were already -impressed with the same opinion, and the result of a -little laying of heads together was the amalgamation -of all the firms into the United African Company in -the year 1879.</p> - -<p>The happy results of this policy were soon made -apparent in improved profits. The expense of management -was enormously reduced. Where formerly there -had been floating hulks, permanent stations were built -on land, and at the same time the number was increased. -The Company thus found itself on an altogether new -footing with the natives, who could now be treated with -on equal terms. The trade grew by leaps and bounds, -and bade fair to become of national importance.</p> - -<p>Naturally such prosperity could not continue without -attracting the envious attention of other nations, and -more especially of the French, who, having succeeded -far beyond their wildest expectations in reaping the -harvest sown by the English in the Upper Niger basin, -hoped by a little judicious manipulation to be able to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> -do the same along the lower course of the river, and so -carry out their dream of an almost exclusive African -Empire stretching from Benin to the Mediterranean.</p> - -<p>Under the patronage, more or less open, of Gambetta—certainly -instigated and encouraged by him—the -first feelers were thrown out in the establishment of -two commercial associations—the Compagnie Française -de l’Afrique Equatoriale of Paris, with a capital of -£160,000; and the Compagnie du Senegal et de la -Côte Occidentale d’Afrique of Marseilles, with a subscribed -capital of £600,000.</p> - -<p>Happily for British enterprise in the Niger basin our -interests were watched over by argus eyes, else the -course of events would have taken a different turn, -French commerce bringing everywhere with it the -French flag and administrative system, to the eventual -strangling of any trade of ours.</p> - -<p>The United African Company, till then private, was -promptly thrown open to the public, and the capital -raised to a million sterling. Thus provided with “the -sinews of war,” the Company proceeded to give battle -to the foreign interlopers, and speedily swept them out -of the entire region. None the less, however, did the -French contrive to do incalculable harm during their -brief inglorious career, under which the gin trade -flourished, and further anarchy was spread among the -savage tribes, as usual ever ready to take full advantage -of division and enmity among the European traders.</p> - -<p>With the annihilation of the French Companies our -merchants once more reigned supreme, and all immediate -danger of French political and commercial -aggression was completely quashed.</p> - -<p>The footing, however, which the former had even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> -temporarily been able to effect, had shown the precarious -position of the British Company’s hold on the -country, unsupported as they were by Government -backing. They were still open to renewed attempts at -aggression—still liable to have the fruits of their labour -and enterprise wrested from them. Under such conditions -there could be no real attempts to develop the -resources of the country, or introduce new civilising -institutions among the natives, to effect which ends it -was perfectly clear that two things were necessary—first, -that the Niger basin below Timbuktu should be -declared British, as a guarantee against all further -foreign intrusion; and second, that a Royal Charter -should be obtained, under the authority of which the -Company would be enabled to proceed with the work of -development and progress.</p> - -<p>The necessity of this latter step had already been foreseen -by M‘Queen long before the Lower Niger had been -explored, except in M‘Queen’s own mind. With an -insight truly prophetic, he pointed out that if ever Great -Britain’s mission in the Niger was to be achieved, it -could only be by means of a Chartered Company. While -deprecating a prolonged term of privilege, he argues that -its duration ought not to be narrowed too much, otherwise -that circumstance would tend to discourage the -merchant, and prevent him from laying out money at -the first outset, or embarking in the trade with that -vigour which alone could render it productive and successful.</p> - -<p>In answer to the argument against exclusive privilege, -he shows that this exclusive privilege is for a trade -yet to be formed, and that the commercial conditions of -a civilised and an uncivilised country are totally diffe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span>rent. -In the latter “everything is to do. Regular commerce -is to be created. Society is almost altogether to -be formed. Security and civilisation, law, order, and -religion are each and all yet to be introduced. Unity -of action and design, therefore, become absolutely -necessary to accomplish all these desirable objects—conflicting -interests amidst such a disjointed population -must and will indefinitely retard it. A charter is -clearly and indispensably necessary in order to conduct -mercantile affairs to a prosperous issue—in order to -regulate the supply, to explore the country and find out -the proper markets, to negotiate as an irresistible and -stable power with the native princes, to purchase lands, -to protect trade, to punish aggression, to rear up gradually -an empire in Africa such as had been done in India, -against which no native power shall be able to raise its -head. Then and not till then the trade may be thrown -open.... Without such regulations for a time there -is too good reason to dread that our connection with -Africa will never be more than the transient visitations -of insulated merchants,” &c. &c. In these and other -remarkable words M‘Queen graphically sketches the history -of the sixty years of British intercourse with the -Niger subsequent to the time at which he wrote. Only -after such a lapse of time, and through a long series of -mistakes and the rude buffeting of facts, were our eyes -opened to the necessity of taking his advice.</p> - -<p>Even then, however, the National African Company -might have petitioned the Government in vain to make -the Niger secure from foreign aggression, or to put -them on the only possible footing to exploit and develop -a savage country lying under the blight of a deadly -climate, but for the sudden awaking of Europe to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> -supposed-to-be vast latent possibilities of the African -continent. A magnificent bubble was puffed up into -view, dazzling all eyes with its iridescent hues, and -inflaming all minds with its promise of wealth and -power. European commerce was to be regenerated—the -pressure on the population was to be relieved—nations -were to rise in power and importance. El Dorado and -Second India were terms too weak to express the possibilities -of the future when Africa was under discussion.</p> - -<p>Under the electric glow of the new craze deserts were -made to bloom like Eden, swamps became veritable -arcadias, the wilderness was repeopled, and peace and -a demand for European goods were discovered to be -the prevailing characteristics of the natives. The -result was the scramble for Africa, in which the -chief nations of Europe made themselves ridiculous by -the indecent haste with which they rushed to raise -their respective flags. Our own Government was the -last to feel the quickening influences, and then only -awoke under the pressure of public opinion, and after -much that should have been ours had been lost.</p> - -<p>But for the National African Company the Niger -would probably now have fallen a prey to France or -Germany, but with admirable forethought they had -strengthened their position and secured their rights by -treaties with every native tribe from the mouth of the -Niger to the Benué. By virtue of persistent nagging -at the Foreign Office, these treaties were recognised -by Government, and a protectorate proclaimed over the -region thus acquired.</p> - -<p>Then came the Berlin Conference in the winter of -1884, in which the free navigation of the Niger was -established, but the administration of the river from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span> -Timbuktu to the sea was left in the hands of the -British.</p> - -<p>This was much; but more remained to be done. The -Niger and Benué above their confluence still lay open -to political and commercial aggression, which might be -fatal to the best interests of this country as well as to -the Company which had already done so much.</p> - -<p>Thanks to the persistent efforts of one Herr Flegel, -the Germans were not slow to recognise this fact. -This indefatigable trader and explorer commenced his -career as a clerk in a trading house in Lagos. Filled -with an ambition to explore and extend German influence, -he contrived to ascend the Niger in British -mission steamers and trading vessels, spying out the -land wherever he went, and ever on the outlook how -the British bread he ate might be turned to German -account. With much daring and industry, and assisted -by German funds, he added much on subsequent trips to -our knowledge of some parts of the Niger and Benué.</p> - -<p>The result of his inquiries and exploration was to fire -the German Colonial Society with the hope of establishing -their national influence in the regions beyond the -British Protectorate.</p> - -<p>Happily the National African Company were as usual -wideawake, and soon became aware of the new danger -which threatened them. Immediately they set about -preparing to forestall any action on the part of the -Germans. Already in their self-imposed task of securing -Britain’s rights in the Niger they had used up all -the profits of their trade, but they had no thought of -shrinking from the work. To have the Germans in the -Niger would mean irreparable ruin to legitimate commerce, -and the flooding of the whole land with the styx-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span>like -flood of gin which would inevitably flow in a devastating -flood from Hamburg. At this supreme moment -it became necessary once for all to secure the Niger basin -to Britain. The Company did the writer of these lines -the honour of inviting him to take up the task. Accordingly, -in February 1885, I found myself once more steaming -towards the tropics, while as yet my friends for the -most part imagined me recruiting in the Mediterranean -from the effects of my recent expedition to Masai-land.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI.</a><br /> -<span class="smaller"><i>THE ROYAL NIGER COMPANY—(Continued).</i></span></h2> - -<p>On the 16th March 1885 we entered the Nun mouth of -the River Niger.</p> - -<p>Heavy leaden clouds hung overhead, from which rain -fell in a steady downpour, and lightning flashed at -rapid intervals. From time to time thunder crashed -deafeningly about us, or more distantly blended with -the monotonous impressive roar of the Atlantic breakers. -A steaming atmosphere threw its depressing shroud over -the scene, suggesting fever germs, and all manner of -liver and stomachic complaints. On all sides stretched -a discoloured reach of water, reflecting the leaden tints -overhead, and running into the mist-veiled mangrove -that ringed the horizon.</p> - -<p>As we stood on the deck of the S.S. <i>Apobo</i>, under a -dripping awning, we could not but be infected by the -melancholy of the scene, and might doubtless have -exclaimed in Roman heroics, “We who come to die -salute thee,” but that we had to pack our traps and -prepare for landing.</p> - -<p>A few more miles of steaming into this “white man’s -grave,” and our thoughts were diverted from the melancholy -of our immediate prospect by a new and more interesting -feature. There ahead of us, on the left, where -creek and mangrove met, a leviathian-like object stretched<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span> -its weird length far into the water, and laved its hundred -limbs in the placid depths. This was the iron pier of -Akassa, the then chief trading centre and depôt of the -National African Company.</p> - -<p>Soon we were enabled to distinguish the beach strewn -with the relics of the ships and barges of other days, -and with the boats and canoes still in use. Higher up -lay piles of stores and palm-oil casks, while behind rose -a series of roomy warehouses built of corrugated iron. -Further seaward stood the quarters of the Company’s -agents—the whole cosily ensconced in the arms of the -mangrove forest, which in the distance looked fascinating, -but on closer acquaintance proved to be a fever-breeding -quagmire.</p> - -<p>Such was Akassa, where throbbed with undying -energy the busy current of British commercial life.</p> - -<p>With our arrival in the river my days of ease were -over, and prompt action and stern work became the -order of the day. No one knew where Flegel was, or -where he might turn up. With his minute knowledge -of the river, he was a rival not to be despised. It -behoved me, therefore, to waste no time, and accordingly, -having collected such stores as were necessary, I started -on my voyage in the steam launch <i>Français</i> two days -after reaching Akassa.</p> - -<p>For the first hour we steamed up the rapidly narrowing -creek till we found ourselves confronted by a dense -barrier of mangrove. For an instant we seemed to be -insanely heading to wreck and disaster, when all at once -the wall of vegetation presented a narrow opening, and -we were engulfed in its leafy depths. Could this be the -Niger—the mighty river which drained the quarter of a -continent—only a stream thirty yards in breadth, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> -some five in depth, lazily flowing seaward? That stream -was formed of Niger water, but it was not the Niger.</p> - -<p>Up this insignificant winding waterway our course now -lay. First there was mangrove and nothing else simulating -the appearance of dry land, alternately exposed -as pestilential mud or covered by water, according to the -state of the tide. After a time land appeared on the -level of the highest tides—the swamp vegetation began -to exhibit a less vigorous growth, and was intermingled -with other trees and bushes. Each mile made the -transformation more marked. The land rose higher -and higher; the mangrove trees grew more stunted and -fewer in number; terrene plants took their place, and -grew in size, in beauty, and in majesty, till the ideal -tropical forest spread its romantic depths before our -admiring eyes.</p> - -<p>Coincidently other developments of the panorama -were taking place. The river gathered together its -various branches and increased in breadth and depth, -till in its full majestic unity it sunned its broad bosom -in the tropic glare—a magnificent stream from a mile to -a mile and a half broad.</p> - -<p>With the gathering together of the various branches -and the improvement in the physical conditions, evidences -of human occupation began to show themselves.</p> - -<p>For the first eight hours not the faintest trace of man -had been discernible. Then appeared a deserted fishing -weir, next an old plantation, by-and-by a new clearing, -and immediately after a canoe propelled by two women, -which was seen creeping slowly along under the river’s -banks.</p> - -<p>At last, towards sunset, a couple of villages were -sighted, and thenceforward man proclaimed his sway<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> -over the land, giving animation to the scene, with now -and then a picturesque effect.</p> - -<p>As we continued our course our eyes were greeted by -the sight of much that Lander and his successors had -only dreamed of as the possible to be. Already trade -had laid a prosaic hand on the great highway of Tale and -Travel—the river sacred to romance, whose “golden -sands,” by the alchemy of its touch, are now transmuted -to a golden freight of palm oil.</p> - -<p>The surging screws, the puff of steam and clang of -machinery, break the impressive stillness of the forest, -and fill the tropic air with their unhallowed echoes, -driving the hippo from his favourite pool, the crocodile -from the yellow sand-bank. Amid such sounds, the -shrill scream of the parrot, and the indignant chatter of -the monkey, strike upon the ear with a strange sense -of incongruity.</p> - -<p>Here and there the graceless front of a trading station, -with its whitewashed corrugated iron walls and roof of -European design, glares forth unblushingly from its bosky -niche of palm and silk cotton tree. Thence issues the -matter of fact trader—no longer in the picturesque disarray -of the “palm oil ruffian,” but resplendent in the -dazzling glory of a well-starched shirt and snow white -duck trousers—who strolls down to the landing-place -through a garden aglow with sunflowers and walks shaded -by a canopy of trailing vines and other creepers.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_355_large.png"><img id="i_355" src="images/i_355.png" width="600" height="287" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">TRADERS’ HOUSE, ABUTSHI.</p></div> - -<p>The natives around the station share in the unromantic -changes. They still carry about with them an -air of picturesque sansculottic barbarity, but jarring -elements have been superadded. The negro has degenerated -into that hybrid creature the “nigger,” bids -you “good morning” as he asks for a pipe of tobacco<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> -or a nip of gin, or calls your attention to his lawn-tennis -hat—the latest fashion, and almost his sole dress.</p> - -<p>The only circumstance which serves to maintain an -air of romance about him is the knowledge we possess -that he still loves his neighbour to the extent of becoming -at times literally one flesh with him.</p> - -<p>Everywhere there is evidence that the trader is in -possession. The missionary has accompanied him, eager -in the cause of Christ and humanity. Not unfrequently -the sweet tones of the church bell may be heard ringing -silver clear from the cathedral gloom of the forest. -They call, alas! to those who will not hear, though -doubtless to the yearning ear of faith those sweetly -solemn sounds shape themselves into a prophecy of the -coming good destined to re-echo some day through every -forest depth and wide waste of jungle.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile, whatever be the future of Christianity in -these lands, one thing becomes abundantly clear to us -as we continue our ascent of the river, namely, that it -is not the only religious force which is penetrating the -sodden mass of Niger heathenism. Islam, with untiring -missionary enterprise, has entered the field and -thrown down the gauntlet to the older religion for the -possession of the natives. Unhappily so far, as compared -with the advancing tide of Mohammedanism, the -progress of the Christian faith is practically at a standstill. -Half way between the Delta and Lokoja the -pioneer Moslem outposts are found wielding a marked -and yearly increasing influence on the ideas and habits -of the natives. With each mile nearer the Sudan that -influence becomes more and more discernible, till before -we have reached the confines of Gandu we have altogether -left behind the congenial trinity—fetishism,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> -cannibalism, and the gin bottle—and find the erewhile -unwashed barbarian in a measure clothed and in his -right mind, instinct with religious activity and enthusiasm, -and wonderfully far advanced in the arts and -industries. Here it is clear that we are in the presence -of no assumed veneer, no mere formality, no extraneous -influences to bolster up a savage people to the semblance -of higher things, but face to face with a force which -has taken deep root in the lives of the inhabitants and -altogether transformed them.</p> - -<p>On nearing Lokoja we bade adieu to the reeking -plains and dense forest region, and entered a picturesque -section of lofty table-topped and peaked mountains, -delighting the eye by their varied shape and rugged -aspect—here stern and threatening with bare precipices; -there basking under the tropic sun in smiling slopes, -beautified and shaded by groups of trees; at other places -swelling upwards and towering into fantastic peaks. -But however delightful to us as passengers and spectators, -this part of the journey was anything but -pleasant to our skipper, whose whole thoughts were -absorbed by the hidden rocks in the river-bed and the -fierce currents which swirled around them.</p> - -<p>The passage, however, was safely accomplished on the -evening of the 25th, and we anchored off Lokoja just as -the last glints of sunshine passed from the hill-tops, and -gave place to the sepia shades of evening.</p> - -<p>In continuing our journey it now behoved us to proceed -with more circumspection. We had reached the -southern confines of Gandu, the western half of the -great Fillani (Fulah) Empire. At this time Maliké, -Emir of Nupé, held a complete monopoly of the trade -between the Company and the rest of Gandu. We were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> -only too well aware that any attempt to break through -this monopoly would be strenuously resisted by him, -and that therefore if he scented the object of our expedition -to his liege lord at Gandu, we might bid adieu to -all hopes of advancing inland. As our presence could -not be kept secret from him, we thought it well to send -him a letter merely to intimate that we were passing.</p> - -<p>On the 28th we left Lokoja and pushed on to Rabba, -at work now in dead earnest, making up loads in the -small hold of the launch, where we were nearly roasted -alive. At various stations porters were shipped secretly -and stowed away in barges, everything being made ready -for a surprise-march the moment we landed.</p> - -<p>On the 8th April we reached Rabba, from which our -land march was to commence. Maliké was still expecting -a visit from us at Bida, when we were actually landing -a hundred miles to the west with a hundred and twenty -men, two educated negro traders, one Arab interpreter, -and two Europeans besides myself. So completely had -all our plans been laid that we started on the following -day, leaving the chiefs and headmen dumfounded and -perplexed, not knowing what to do without instructions -from the capital.</p> - -<p>Our first feelings of joy on leaving Rabba behind were -speedily damped when one of my European companions -got his leg broken, and had to be promptly returned -to the launch. Soon a shoal of troubles and worries -descended on us. The headmen of the various districts -began to throw every possible obstacle in our way, -refusing us guides, porters, and food. The men, unaccustomed -to scanty fare and the steady grind of a -caravan march, mutinied, and tried to force us to turn -back. They threatened to murder us, and more than<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> -once presented their rifles at us by way of intimidation. -One man tried to stab me, and was only secured after -a terrific struggle, the porters passively looking on. -Yet it was a matter of life and death to us that we -should press forward in spite of all opposition—a few -days might mean ruin to the expedition, by giving the -emir’s messenger time to come up with us. The thought -inspired us to redouble our exertions. We fought like -men at bay, though we were but two against a hundred -and twenty; and happily by dint of machiavellian strategy -and diplomacy, with not a little determined flourishing -of revolvers, we came out of the battle triumphant—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span>safe -beyond the clutches of Maliké, and complete masters -of the situation.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_360" src="images/i_360.png" width="600" height="466" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">HAUSSA HUT.</p></div> - -<p>It is quite beyond the scope of this chapter to tell how -we continued our way through Nupé to Kontakora, and -thence by way of Yauri, the Niger, and Gulbi-n-Gindi to -Jega, Sokoto, and Wurnu, where the Sultan of Sokoto -had established his court.</p> - -<p>Here we were in a region teeming with varied interest, -having reached the religious, political, and commercial -centre of the Western and Central Sudan. We could -hardly believe our senses, and realise that we were in -the heart of Africa, among a people popularly called -negroes. Rather did it seem to us as if, worn out by -the tiresome miles and the monotonous jogging of our -horses, we had fallen asleep, and in a dream imagined -ourselves in some part of Moorish Africa. A blazing -sun beat down with terrific effect upon a parched land, -in which here and there appeared green oases of acacia, -baobab and <i>doum</i> palm, in which nestled villages and -towns half hid by the grateful shadow of the foliage.</p> - -<p>On all hands, as we pushed along, we were reminded of -Mohammedan customs, of eastern amplitude of dress, if -not of gorgeousness of colour. Everything bore the impress -of Moorish ideas and North African civilisation. -In the early dewy mornings, in the sultry heats of noontide, -at the close of the tropic day, we could hear the -sacred call to prayer. By the wayside, far from mosque -and town, were to be seen spots marked off by stones, -which with silent eloquence invited the dusty and footsore -traveller to stay his weary march and wean his -thoughts for a moment from his worldly affairs.</p> - -<p>The types of men, the fashions in dress, were of the -most varied character.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span></p> - -<p>Specially interesting were those mysterious people the -Fillani, or Fulah, numbers of whom passed us from time -to time. Simple herdsmen, semi-nomadic in habit, and -semi-serfs in position at the beginning of this century—warriors -and Mohammedan propagandists a few years -later—they are now the rulers of a hundred races between -the Atlantic and Bornu. Portentously picturesque, -with their voluminous garments, their massive -turbans, and <i>litham</i>-veiled faces, they pranced along on -gorgeously caparisoned horses with the dignified bearing -of the Moor.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<img id="i_362" src="images/i_362.png" width="553" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">PORTRAIT OF THE SULTAN OF SOKOTO’S BROTHER.</p></div> - -<p>More numerous were the Haussa, the most intelligent -and industrious of black races.</p> - -<p>Very different from this interesting people were the -Tuareg visitors from the plateau lands of Asben, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> -stalked past us in artistically ragged dresses, with eyes -which seemed to glow in the shadow of their face cloth -and overhanging turban with the fiercest of human -passions.</p> - -<p>On the 24th May the goal of our expedition was -reached, and the object of our mission attained a very -few days after. No time was then lost in proceeding -to Gandu, where similar success met our efforts; and -then with treaties written in Arabic, sealed with the -seals of the two Sultans, and signed by their respective -wazirs, practically placing their two empires under a -British Protectorate, and giving all commercial privileges -to the National African Company, we commenced, -with no small elation, our return home.</p> - -<p>The one unpleasant occurrence which marked our -journey coastwards was the stealing of my journals and -personal effects, though happily the precious treaties -remained safe. Rabba was duly reached, and thence -we continued our way down the river in canoes to -Lokoja. On the way the German expedition, which -had meanwhile been set afoot with a view to forestalling -other nations in the regions we had just quitted, -was met moving up the river, all unconscious of the -fact that not a yard of ground from Timbuktu to -Akassa, or from Bornu to Yoruba, had been left on -which to plant the flag of the Fatherland.</p> - -<p>Within seven months after leaving Liverpool I was -back home again, my work successfully accomplished in -a much shorter time than at the outset I had dared -to hope.</p> - -<p>Next year our Government, now awake to the errors -of the past, and recognising the incontestable claims<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> -and magnificent patriotic enterprise of the National -African Company, granted it a Royal Charter, and the -right to the title of Royal Niger Company, which it -now bears.</p> - -<p>The Right Honourable Lord Aberdare was its first -Governor, and Sir George Goldie—to whose diplomatic -genius and untiring industry this country as well as -the Company owes so much—was the Deputy-Chairman. -Around these gathered as counsellors and advisers many -who had been among the pioneers of British trade and -influence on the Niger, and had assisted in preparing -the way for the magnificent national undertaking they -have lived to see inaugurated. Among these are the -Messrs. Miller, Mr. Edgar, and Mr. Croft, whose names -cannot but find an honourable place in the annals of -the Company.</p> - -<p>Of the career, bright with promise, upon which the -Company has thus entered, it is unnecessary to speak -at length. Already good results are flowing from the -new administration. The gin traffic has been taken in -hand, suppressed where possible, and restricted elsewhere -by enormous duties. Arms and gunpowder are also no -longer sold wholesale to the savage natives. The resources -of the country are being tested and developed -as they never were before, and with the most gratifying -results.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_365_large.png"><img id="i_365" src="images/i_365.png" width="600" height="370" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">HAUSSA VILLAGE.</p></div> - -<p>In closing this record of Niger exploration we cannot -do better than quote the prophetic words of M‘Queen—applicable -still, though later than they might have been -in approaching fulfilment. He it was who first conclusively -demonstrated the course and termination of -the great river. His was the first warning of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span> -certainty of the French advance; his the clear vision -which foresaw the necessity of a Chartered Company. -Let him, then, speak for the future, foretelling what is to -come, as he foretold what is now past, in the concluding -words of his Commercial Survey of the Region.</p> - -<p>“I have thus, though feebly, I confess, in comparison -to the magnitude of the subject brought forward, completed -the object which I had in view, namely, to call -the attention of the British Government, and the power -and energies of our people, to an honour of the first -rank, and at the same time endeavoured to rouse the -resource and enterprise of our merchants to engage in -a trade of the first magnitude. By means of the Niger -and its tributary streams, it is quite evident that the -whole trade of Central Africa may be rendered exclusively -and permanently our own.... To support and -carry into execution the measures necessary to accomplish -this undertaking is worthy of the ministry of -Great Britain, and worthy of the first country of the -world. It will confer immortal honour on our native -land, lasting glory on the name and reign of George the -Fourth, bring immense and permanent advantages to -Britain, and bestow incalculable blessings and benefits -on Africa. Agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, -learning and religion, will spread rapidly and widely -over a country abounding in the richest productions -whether on the surface of the earth or below it, but at -present a country overspread with the most abject servitude, -and sunk in the deepest ignorance, superstition, -and barbarity. Every obstacle will vanish before judicious -and patient exertions. The glory of our Creator, -the good of mankind, the prosperity of our country, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> -interest of the present and the welfare of future generations—glory, -honour, interest call us, and united point -out the sure path to gain the important end. Let but -the noble Union Ensign wave over and be planted by -the stream of the mighty Niger, and the deepest wounds -of Africa are healed.”</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX.</a></h2> - -<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Adamawa, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Africa, early exploration of, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— <a id="Africa_English_in"></a>English in, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46-245</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293-332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— <a id="Africa_French_in"></a>French in, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_302">302-306</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Germans in, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— <a id="Africa_Portuguese_in"></a>Portuguese in, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">African Association, the, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Company, the, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Agades, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ahmed Baba of Timbuktu, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Akassa, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ali of Bornu, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— of Ludamar, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Amadi Fatuma, Park’s guide, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Anderson, Dr. Alexander, Park’s brother-in-law, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Arabs, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Arab conquests, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— explorers, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— historians, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Armour, Sudanese, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Askia, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Ishak, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Badagry, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bady, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bafing R., <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Baikie, Dr., <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Bakhoy"></a>Bakhoy or Furkomo, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bambaku, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bambarra, district of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— king of, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bambuk, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bammaku, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bangassi, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Banks, Sir Joseph, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Barth, <a href="#Page_8">8-12</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— quoted, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bathurst, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bawa, king of Haussa, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Beecroft, Governor, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bees, caravan attacked by, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bello, Sultan of Sokoto, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Benaum, Moorish camp at, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park’s reception at, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Benin, Bight of, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Benue"></a>Benué or Tchadda, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Berbers, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Berlin Conference, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bintingala, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Birni-n-Kebbi, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Birthplace of Park, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Biru, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Bombyx</i> or silk-cotton tree, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bondou, district of, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bornu, district of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— historians of, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— kings of, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— rise to political importance, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bridge, a primitive, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bushreens, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Bussa, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Caillé, <a href="#Page_290">290-292</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Campbell, Captain, expedition of, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Captivity of Park. <i>See</i> <a href="#Park">Park</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Caravan, a day with, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— an early, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park’s, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— a slave, <a href="#Page_143">143-158</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Catherine</i>, the, voyage of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chad, Lake, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chandos, Duke of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Charlestown</i>, the, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Charms"></a>Charms, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Charter for Royal Niger Company, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Chivalry, Pagan, an example of, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Christianity in Africa, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Clapperton, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_265">265-275</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Commerce, articles of, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— on the Gambia, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— on the Niger, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Companies, chartered, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— commercial, enterprise of, <a href="#Page_294">294-332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Company, the African, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Congo River, the, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— cataracts of, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Conversion, a Mohammedan mode of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Counti Mamadi, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Cowries, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Customs, Negro, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Daisy, king of Kaarta, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dalli, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">De Barros, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Debo (Dibbie) Lake, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Demba, Park’s servant, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Denham, Major, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dibalami Dunama Selmami, king of Bornu, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dina, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Discovery. <i>See</i> <a href="#Exploration_African">Exploration, African</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Dunama ben Humé, king of Bornu, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Duté</i>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">East India Company, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ebn Batuta, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Khaldun, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Said, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Edris Alawoma, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— king of Bornu, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Education, Mohammedan, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Edwards, Mr. Bryan, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Effects of European intercourse, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Egga, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Egypt, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">El Bekri, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Edrisi, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Endeavour</i>, the, voyage of, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">English. <i>See</i> <a href="#Africa_English_in">Africa, English in</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Explorers. <i>See</i> <a href="#Exploration_African">Exploration</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Exploration_African"></a>Exploration, African, under—</li> -<li class="isub1">The Nasamones, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Ebn Batuta, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Leo Africanus, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Gilianez, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Nuno Tristan, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Fernandez, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Lancelot, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Richard Thompson, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Richard Jobson, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Bartholomew Stibbs, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Ledyard, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Lucas, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Horneman, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Houghton, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Park, <a href="#Page_46">46-242</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Tuckey, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Peddie, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Campbell, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Gray, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Denham and Clapperton, <a href="#Page_265">265-275</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Clapperton and Lander, <a href="#Page_276">276-281</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">The Brothers Lander, <a href="#Page_282">282-287</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Laing, <a href="#Page_288">288-290</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Caillé, <a href="#Page_290">290-292</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Barth, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Baikie, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Commercial companies, <a href="#Page_294">294-332</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Factories, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Falemé River, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Falika, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Family, the, of Park, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fatticonda, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fernandez, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fetters of slaves, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fevers, African, and Europeans, <a href="#Page_208">208-211</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Flegel, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Formosa River, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fortifications, Negro, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Foulshiels, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">French. <i>See</i> <a href="#Africa_French_in">Africa, French in</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— African Companies, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Fulahs, Fulatah, or Fillani, the, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246-253</a>, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— characteristics of, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— conquest of Sudan by, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— history of, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— nomadic habits, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— pastoral life, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fulahdu, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Fuludu Mountains, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Furkomo River. <i>See</i> <a href="#Bakhoy">Bakhoy</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Futa Jallon, district of, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Larra, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Torra, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Gallieni, Captain, <a href="#Page_304">304-306</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gambia, commerce on, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— exploration of, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gandu, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ghana or Ghanata, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gilianez, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gin trade, the, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gober, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gogo, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gold, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Goree, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Government, British, the, and the Niger, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gray, Captain, expedition of, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Guinea, Gulf of, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gulbi-n-Gindi River, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gum, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Gurma, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Hadj Mohammed Askia, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hanno, expedition of, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Haussa States, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hawkins, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Heat, tropic, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Herodotus, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hibbert, Mr. George, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Historians, African, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Horneman, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Hospitality, Negro, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Houghton, Major, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Ibo, the, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Inauguration of modern exploration, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Intercourse, European, effects of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Isaaco, Park’s guide, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— attacked by a crocodile, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Islam. <i>See</i> <a href="#Mohammedanism">Mohammedanism</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Jalonka Wilderness, the, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145-151</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Jarra"></a>Jarra or Yarra, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jenné or Jinni, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jillifri, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jinbala, Island of, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Joag, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jobson, Richard, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Johnson, Park’s servant, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Joliba. <i>See</i> <a href="#Niger">Niger</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Joloffs or Jaloffs, the, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Jonkakonda, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Journals, Park’s, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Kaarta, district of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— capital of, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park’s reception at, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kabara or Kabra, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kajaaga, district of, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kakundy, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kamalia, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kankan, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kano, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Clapperton and Oudney’s expedition to, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Karfa Taura, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kashna or Katsena, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kasson, district of, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kayi, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kokoro River, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kong Mountains, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Konkadu Mountains, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kugha, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kuka, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kullo, district of, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kuranka, Highlands of, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kurusa, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Kwora or Main Niger, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Laidley, Dr., <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Laing, Major, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lancelot, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lander, Richard, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ledyard, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Leo Africanus, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Logun, district of, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lotophagi, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Lucas, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ludamar, district of, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park’s sojourn in, <a href="#Page_78">78-96</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Macgregor Laird, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mage, E., <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Makrizi, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Malacotta, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mandara Mountains, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Manding, district of, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— famine in, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mandingoes, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Manga, Denham’s expedition to, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mangrove swamps, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mansong, king of Bambarra, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">March, a desert, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Market-place, an African, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Martyn, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Medina, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Melli, kingdom of, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Modibu, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Mohammedanism"></a>Mohammedanism. <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— influence of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— propagation of, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— spread of, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Moorish conquests, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— idea of beauty, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Moors, <a href="#Page_78">78-96</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Morocco, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mortality from fever, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mosi, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="MQueen"></a>M‘Queen, James, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— quoted, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— theory of Niger geography, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— views on commercial importance of Niger, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mulai Hamed, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Mumbo Jumbo, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Murzuk in Fezzan, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Nasamones, the, expedition of, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">National African Co. <i>See</i> <a href="#United_African_Company">United African Co</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Necho, expedition, of <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Negro, the, and European intercourse, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nereko River, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">New South Wales, Park’s proposed mission to, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><a id="Niger"></a>Niger or Joliba, the, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— ancient knowledge of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— commercial development under—</li> -<li class="isub1">Macgregor Laird, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Oldfield and Lander, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">Beecroft, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">British Government, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">The French, <a href="#Page_302">302-306</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">The Germans, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</li> -<li class="isub1">The Royal Niger Co., <a href="#Page_307">307-332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— course of, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— delta of, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— exploration of. <i>See</i> <a href="#Exploration_African">Exploration, African</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— importance of, to Britain. <i>See</i> <a href="#MQueen">M‘Queen</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park reaches, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— source of, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— supposed identity with Congo, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— —— Nile, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— —— termination in interior, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— termination of, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264-287</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nile, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nun River, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nunez River, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Nupé, kingdom of, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Othman dan Fodiyo, <a href="#Page_246">246-252</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— conquest of Sudan by, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Oudney, Dr., <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Overweg, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst"><a id="Park"></a>Park, Mungo, early life, <a href="#Page_36">36-43</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— choice of a profession, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— religious convictions, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— voyage to Sumatra, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— connection with African Association, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— first African expedition, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— views on the slave trade, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— captivity among the Moors, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">—— his escape, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— reaches the Niger, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— journey to Silla, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— return to coast, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— fever at Kamalia, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— reaches the Gambia, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— sails for England, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— reception in England, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— publication of journals, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— marriage, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— proposed mission to New South Wales, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— practises medicine in Peebles, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— second journey, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— proposed route, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— preparations, <a href="#Page_186">186-195</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— voyage down Niger, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— death, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— family of, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Park. Thomas, son of the explorer, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Peddie, Major, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Peebles, Park’s life in, <a href="#Page_180">180-184</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pisania, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Pliny, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Portuguese. <i>See</i> <a href="#Africa_Portuguese_in">Africa, Portuguese in</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Products, African commercial, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Protectorate British, proclamation of, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ptolemy, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Quintin, Dr., <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Rabba, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Railway between Senegal and Bammaku, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rapids, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Reception, a Sudanese, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Relics of Park, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rennell, Major, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rennell’s Mountains, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rey, Rio del, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Rhamadan, the month of fasting, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Richard, M., and the Niger termination, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Richardson, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Robbers, Park among, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Royal Niger Company, <a href="#Page_307">307-332</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— prospects of Niger basin under, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Ruskin’s charges against Park, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Sahara, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Samaku River, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sansandig, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Saphias.</i> <i>See</i> <a href="#Charms">Charms</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Scenery, African, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">School, a Mohammedan, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Scott, Mr. George, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Sir Walter’s, friendship with Park, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">“Scramble for Africa,” the, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sego, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park’s reception at, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Senegal, the, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— exploration of, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— the French on, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Senegambia, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Serawulies, the, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Shari River, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Shea butter, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sibidulu, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sieur Brue, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Denham and Toole’s expedition to, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Silla, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Slave caravan, departure of a, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— raid, a, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— route, horrors of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143-153</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— ship, a, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— trade, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147-149</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Park’s views on, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Slaves, how obtained, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sokoto, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sonakies, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Song of the Negro women, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Songhay, kingdom of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— kings of, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— historians of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Stibbs, Bartholomew, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Joseph, Fort, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">St. Louis, Fort, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Strabo, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Sudan, the, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Christianity in, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Denham’s expedition to, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— early exploration of, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— early trade with, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Fulah conquest of, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— historians of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— Mohammedan conquest of, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">—— Moorish conquest of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Superstitions, Negro, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Tambaura Mountains, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tchadda. <i>See</i> <a href="#Benue">Benué</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tenda, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— wilderness, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Thompson, Richard, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Thomson, Joseph, <a href="#Page_318">318-329</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tibbu tribes, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Timbuktu, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— first entered by a European, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tombaconda or Tombakunda, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Toole, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Treaties, commercial, with Sokoto and Gandu, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tripoli, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tuaregs, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Tuckey, Captain, on the Congo, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Twat or Tuat, oasis of, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst"><a id="United_African_Company"></a>United African Company, the, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Voyage of the <i>Catherine</i>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— <i>Endeavour</i>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— <i>Joliba</i>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Wadan, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Walata, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wali, district of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wangara, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wawra, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wonda, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">—— River, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wuladu, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wuli, district of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wulima River, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Wurnu, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Yakoba, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yamina, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yarra. <i>See</i> <a href="#Jarra">Jarra</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yauri River, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yeou River, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Yoruba, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> - -<li class="ifrst">Zeghaza, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li></ul> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_377_large.jpg"><img id="i_377" src="images/i_377.jpg" width="600" height="404" alt="Map: LIBYA Secundum PTOLOMÆUM, A.C. 130" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -</div> - -<div class="center p2"> -<a href="images/i_379_large.jpg"><img id="i_379" src="images/i_379.jpg" width="600" height="330" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">EDRISI’S AFRICA 1154</p></div> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_381_large.jpg"><img id="i_381" src="images/i_381.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -<p class="caption">Catalan Map of the World, 1375.</p></div> - -<div class="center"> -<a href="images/i_383_large.jpg"><img id="i_383" src="images/i_383.jpg" width="600" height="333" alt="Map: D’ANVILLE. 1749" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -</div> - -<div class="center p2"> -<a href="images/i_385_large.jpg"><img id="i_385" src="images/i_385.jpg" width="600" height="335" alt="Map: J. RENNELL. 1798" title="Click for a larger version" /></a> -</div> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Barth’s Travels, vols. ii. and iv., Appendices V. and IX.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Barth’s Travels, vol. iv. p. 415.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Barth’s Travels, vol. iv., Appendix IX., p. 624.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> A Geographical and Commercial View of Northern and Central -Africa.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The following is the Duchess of Devonshire’s version of the -above incident:— -</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">“The loud wind roared, the rain fell fast,</div> -<div class="i0">The white man yielded to the blast;</div> -<div class="i0">He sat him down beneath a tree,</div> -<div class="i0">For weary, sad, and faint was he,</div> -<div class="i0">And ah, no wife, no mother’s care</div> -<div class="i0">For him the milk or corn prepare.</div></div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Chorus.</span></h3> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">The white man shall our pity share;</div> -<div class="i0">Alas, no wife or mother’s care</div> -<div class="i0">For him the milk or corn prepare.</div></div> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">The storm is o’er, the tempest past,</div> -<div class="i0">And mercy’s voice has hushed the blast,</div> -<div class="i0">The wind is heard in whispers low,</div> -<div class="i0">The white man far away must go,</div> -<div class="i0">But ever in his heart must bear</div> -<div class="i0">Remembrance of the negro’s care.</div></div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Chorus.</span></h3> - -<div class="stanza"> -<div class="i0">Go, white man, go—but with thee bear</div> -<div class="i0">The negro’s wish, the negro’s prayer,</div> -<div class="i0">Remembrance of the negro’s care.”</div> -</div></div></div> -</div></div> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h3>Transcriber's Note:</h3> - -<p>Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as -possible. Some minor corrections of spelling have been made.</p> - -<p>Larger versions of some of the illustrations and maps may be seen by clicking on the image.</p> -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Mungo Park and the Niger, by Joseph Thomson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUNGO PARK AND THE NIGER *** - -***** This file should be named 52285-h.htm or 52285-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/2/8/52285/ - -Produced by Sonya Schermann, Paul Clark and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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