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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #51887 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51887)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Etiquette Made Easy, by Edward Summers Squier
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Etiquette Made Easy
-
-Author: Edward Summers Squier
-
-Release Date: April 29, 2016 [EBook #51887]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ETIQUETTE MADE EASY ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-ETIQUETTE MADE EASY
-
-
-
-
-Made Easy Series
-
-ETIQUETTE MADE EASY
-
- BY
- EDWARD SUMMERS SQUIER, M. A.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
- NEW YORK
- EDWARD J. CLODE
-
-
-
-
- COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY
- EDWARD J. CLODE
-
- _All rights reserved_
-
- _Entered at Stationers’ Hall_
-
- PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE
-
-
-THE POLITEST MAN of whom history has record was a Norwegian. A stranger
-in a town of Norway asked a passing native the way to a certain
-address. The native raised his hat, bowed, and said:
-
-“Sir, I am very sorry, but I do not know.”
-
-The stranger passed on. A few minutes later, he heard the sound of some
-one running behind him. He faced about, and recognized the native, who
-came, halted, and after a few deep breaths, said, while bowing with
-uplifted hat:
-
-“Sir, after leaving you, I met my brother-in-law, and I regret to tell
-you, Sir, that he also does not know.”
-
-In spite of this story with its Norwegian hero, first place is
-usually given to the French in matters of politeness. There is an old
-story that illustrates with remarkable precision the national traits
-of French, English and German. This has to do with the manner of
-lighting a cigar. The Frenchman strikes a match, offers the flame to
-his companions, then makes a light for himself. The Englishman lights
-his own cigar first, and then offers the match to his companions. The
-German lights his own cigar, then throws the match away. The brief
-recital contains something deeper than mere humor in its analysis of
-national characteristics. The consideration of the Frenchman for others
-is indeed the essential basis for all true courtesy. Genuine politeness
-has its root always in a very real regard for the feelings of others.
-
-The ancient proverb declares that cleanliness is next to godliness. In
-fact, so far as concerns casual associations, cleanliness is the more
-important. We have ordinarily nothing to do with the morals of those
-whom we encounter for a few fugitive moments, but the most fleeting
-companionship with a dirty person is offensive, while a perfect
-cleanliness is always pleasing in its effect.
-
-As a matter of fundamental courtesy toward others, we are required to
-keep ourselves clean. Such cleanliness may be excellent as a hygienic
-measure, but one most eminent physician has declared that bathing is
-not essential to health, and he offers in proof of his assertion the
-great number of old persons there are in the world.
-
-But those aged unwashed would be repulsive in refined society. Their
-condition would distress others. Quite involuntarily, they would thus
-be guilty of discourtesy.
-
-The principle of consideration for others that exalts cleanliness as a
-virtue is the principle that actually fashions all the essential forms
-of politeness. At a decent dinner-table, one must not smack his lips,
-or make loud noises in taking soup from the spoon, for the simple
-reason that such behavior will annoy others. Often, a sympathetic
-person, absolutely untaught in the niceties of etiquette, will do
-the right thing by a natural instinct of kindliness, where another
-individual of polite breeding will do the wrong from sheer lack of that
-fellow-feeling which gives understanding.
-
-Nevertheless, while the noblest courtesy must spring always from the
-heart, common convenience has settled on definite methods of deportment
-for various occasions. Ignorance of these details as to proper conduct
-is not a matter to be contemned, but one to be regretted, because a
-person thus ignorant, no matter how kindly his intention, must often
-disturb others by failure to do the expected thing in the expected way.
-In other words, he lacks knowledge of what are termed the proprieties.
-It is with the intention of offering assistance to those finding
-themselves in doubt as to the niceties of deportment that this book
-has been prepared.
-
-It is arranged with the contents in alphabetical order, so that the
-topics are self-indexed.
-
-In addition to the bulk of information set forth in the following
-pages, there needs only one direction of importance.
-
-This is based on the ancient saying: “When in Rome, do as the Romans
-do.” Practically every community has its local customs, and these are
-always to be respected. There is nothing more snobbish than criticism
-by a stranger of social forms that are well established. It is always
-his duty to respect them and to observe them. Otherwise, he displays
-that lack of consideration for others which is the root of all
-rudeness. One sympathetically disposed toward his fellows who avails
-himself of the information in this book may rest confident in the
-assurance that he is indeed the possessor of good manners.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
- PAGE
- AT HOMES 13
- BACHELOR HOSTS 23
- BALLS 26
- BREAKFASTS 31
- CALLS 34
- CARDS 45
- DINNERS 61
- GARDEN-PARTIES 70
- HOUSE-PARTIES 75
- INTRODUCTIONS 84
- LETTERS 95
- LUNCHEONS 103
- MOURNING 106
- MUSICALES 113
- OPERA 117
- PRIVATE THEATRICALS 121
- RECEPTIONS 122
- SMOKING 123
- STAIRS 124
- STREET ETIQUETTE 125
- TABLE MANNERS 128
- TEAS 133
- THEATER-PARTIES 134
- WEDDINGS 141
-
-
-
-
-Etiquette Made Easy
-
-
-
-
-AT HOMES
-
-
-THE AFTERNOON TEA is perhaps the most popular of social functions, and
-deservedly so, since it is essentially of the utmost simplicity, yet
-may be expanded into a most elaborate social affair. In the original
-simple form, the hostess merely welcomes her guests as they come to her
-on her regular day at home, in the drawing-room, and there offers them
-a cup of tea served by herself and light refreshments of sandwiches and
-cakes and the like.
-
-The next development in the tea is in the nature of a small afternoon
-reception, or at home. For this occasion, the hostess issues
-invitations a week in advance. A visiting-card serves the purpose, with
-a line written below the name:
-
- _Wednesday, June fourth
- from four until seven o’clock_
-
-If there is to be a guest of honor, an additional line may indicate the
-fact:
-
- _To meet_........................
-
-The procedure for the hostess at a function of this sort is more
-formal. It is usual to have the refreshments in the dining-room, though
-they should not be of an elaborate character. The teapot is placed
-at one end of the table, and presided over by some friend, since the
-obligations of the hostess prevent her rendering this hospitable
-service in person.
-
-The third stage of the afternoon tea has come to take the place of the
-old-time reception, though it bears merely the designation “At Home.”
-
-The requisite invitations must be sent out any time from a week to
-a fortnight before the date set. For these, an engraved form is
-essential. They are printed on heavy white bristol board, of the
-quality described for dinner-invitations, and inclosed in a single
-envelope. They may be issued in the name of the hostess alone, or in
-the names of a hostess and her daughter or daughters, or in the names
-of husband and wife—though this last is a very modern innovation. The
-following will serve as a model:
-
- _Mrs. James French Putnam
-
- At Home
-
- April the seventh
-
- From four until seven o’clock
-
- 208 Flagg Avenue_
-
-If the husband joins with the wife in issuing the invitations, the only
-change is in the first line:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. James French Putnam_
-
-Where a daughter is to receive with her mother, the girl’s name appears
-just below that of the matron:
-
- _Mrs. James French Putnam_
-
- _Miss Putnam_
-
-Where there are two or more daughters thus associated with the mother,
-they are included under one title. Thus:
-
- _Mrs. James French Putnam_
-
- _The Misses Putnam_
-
-When a younger sister is to appear at her début, her name in full is
-given a line after those of her mother and elder sister:
-
- _Mrs. James French Putnam_
-
- _Miss Putnam_
-
- _Miss Helen Louise Putnam_
-
-In the event of a guest of honor, the invitation may emphasize the
-presence of this personage by a special engraved announcement at the
-head of the invitation:
-
- _To meet_
-
- ......................................
-
-The remainder of the invitation will follow any of the forms indicated
-above.
-
-Or the announcement may appear in one engraved line at the foot of the
-invitation:
-
- _To meet_................................
-
-At a reception of this character, the hostess is obliged to remain
-on duty near the door of the drawing-room throughout the hours set.
-But a husband or daughter receiving with her, though expected to join
-her in receiving the guests at the outset and for a considerable time
-afterward, is not so rigidly held to the one place, but after a time
-may properly move about among the guests with hospitable intent.
-
-But a débutante must remain at the post of duty with her mother
-throughout the whole time.
-
-In recent years, there has developed a pleasant custom by which
-the débutante invites a number of her young friends to join her in
-receiving the other guests. It is usual to entertain these at dinner
-after the reception.
-
-The refreshments for an occasion of this sort are served in the
-dining-room with servants in attendance. Tea is poured at one end of
-the table, and perhaps chocolate at the other, while a bowl of punch is
-commonly at hand. The refreshments are of the buffet variety, but they
-may be as rich and varied as the hostess chooses. At such functions
-in the city, it is usual to lay a strip of carpet from the house door
-to the curb, and an awning raised over this offers protection to the
-guests in inclement weather. Where the list of guests is long, a
-liveried servant at the curb not only opens the doors of the motors,
-but also issues checks by which the cars may be summoned for the
-departure of the guests.
-
-A butler opens the house door as the guest approaches, and gives
-directions as to the dressing-rooms. Another liveried servant at the
-door of the drawing-room announces each guest by name to the hostess.
-
-At such affairs, both hostess and women guests wear what is properly
-termed a reception-gown—that is to say, one of elegance and richness,
-with a train if the prevailing mode permits, but not decolleté or
-sleeveless. Hats of a character harmonious with the gown are worn
-throughout the function, as are gloves.
-
-The men wear black frock coats and gray striped trousers, with either a
-black waistcoat or a fancy one according to choice. While he leaves his
-coat and hat in the dressing-room at such formal affairs, a man retains
-his gloves, either keeping the left glove on the hand, and carrying the
-other, or carrying both. The right hand must be bare.
-
-Each woman guest leaves on a tray provided for that purpose in the
-hall a card for her hostess and one for each of any other women
-receiving. She may also leave similarly the cards of any other woman
-member of her family who has been invited, but does not attend.
-
-The man leaves a card for his host if there is one, in addition to
-those for the ladies.
-
-No reply is necessary from one invited to such a reception, either
-of acceptance or of refusal. The presence of the guests is deemed a
-sufficient answer. In the event of non-attendance, the guest must be at
-pains to send cards, and these should be so timed in the sending that
-they will reach their address on the day of the at home, preferably in
-the afternoon.
-
-At crowded affairs, the guest displays good manners as well as good
-sense by making the stay short. Twenty minutes is a sufficient time,
-and departure should not be delayed much beyond a half-hour. It is
-better not to say farewell to the hostess, unless the going should be
-at a time when few guests remain, and she is obviously at leisure.
-
-The punctilious guest will make a point of arriving neither too early
-nor too late. Between half-past four and six is recommended.
-
-The formal evening reception is less popular than in former days, but
-it still prevails to a limited extent. The procedure throughout is
-substantially the same as for that of the afternoon reception. The
-wording of the invitation is identical, with the single exception of
-the time specified.
-
-The line that indicated the hours from four until seven o’clock must be
-changed to read:
-
- _From nine until eleven o’clock_
-
-Or, it may be properly stated, if one’s taste so dictates:
-
- _After nine o’clock_
-
-While for the evening reception all other formal details are the same
-as for an afternoon affair, the costumes of the guests, both men
-and women, are changed as befits the change in hours. The men are
-scrupulous in the exactitude of their evening garb—swallow tail, white
-linen and white cravat and white waistcoat, and patent-leather shoes;
-while the women array themselves in their handsomest evening gowns,
-decolleté and sleeveless, and display the richest of their jewels.
-
-
-
-
-BACHELOR HOSTS
-
-
-WHEN A BACHELOR entertains either in the afternoon or evening, he
-follows in a general way the procedure indicated for receptions under
-the heading “At Homes.” If the affair is to be elaborate, he may use
-engraved invitations.
-
- _Mr. Hartley Fane Treadwell
-
- requests the pleasure of
-
- .................................
-
- company
-
- on Wednesday afternoon, November the first
-
- From four until seven o’clock
-
- Nine East Third Street_
-
-A word or two at the bottom on the left may indicate any special
-entertainment, such as _Music_.
-
-But there are certain proprieties to be observed that are peculiar to
-the bachelor. For example, he is not permitted to use a visiting-card
-with a line written on it for less formal invitations. Instead, he must
-write a note in the first person, or he may give the invitation orally.
-The invitations should be issued a week or a little less before the
-appointed time.
-
-There is one other requirement of vital importance. The bachelor must
-always have a chaperon present for any gathering that includes both
-sexes. And she must be invited by note, or orally—even in cases where
-the formal engraved invitations are employed.
-
-The chaperon pours tea, and on occasions when the guests are seated at
-table, she is given the place on the host’s right, unless there is a
-guest of honor, when she is given the position on his left.
-
-The other women guests must take their departure at the same time as
-the chaperon, unless they prefer an earlier hour.
-
-The presence of the chaperon at such entertainments makes it
-unnecessary for the unmarried girl to provide one for herself.
-
-The chaperon should be a married woman, and her husband must be
-included among the invited guests.
-
-When a bachelor wishes to issue engraved invitations for a formal
-dinner-party or luncheon, he uses the forms provided respectively in
-the chapters entitled “Dinners” and “Luncheons.” The directions as to
-breakfasts also will be found appropriate in a general way as set forth
-in the special chapter.
-
-A bachelor should always be punctilious in calling on a chaperon
-shortly after any affair at which she has officiated, in order to
-tender his grateful appreciation of her services in his behalf.
-
-
-
-
-BALLS
-
-
-THE INVITATIONS for a formal ball are engraved on a sheet similar to
-that used for dinner-parties. But, like the dinner-invitations, they
-may also be written by the hostess. In sending these invitations by
-mail only one envelope is used when the invitation is written out. But
-the engraved form is enclosed first in an unsealed envelope with merely
-the name of the guest on the cover. This is put in a second envelope,
-which is sealed and has both the name and address written on it for
-posting. An engraved invitation, however, when delivered by a messenger
-requires only a single envelope, sealed.
-
-These invitations must be sent out not less than ten days before the
-date of the ball, and they may be issued three weeks before the
-appointed time.
-
-The accepted form may be either of those following:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. George Wheatley
-
- request the pleasure of your company
-
- on Wednesday evening, April the second
-
- at half-past nine o’clock
-
- Dancing 71 Hamilton Place_
-
- _Mrs. George Wheatley
-
- Miss Wheatley
-
- At Home
-
- Tuesday, April the ninth
-
- at eleven o’clock
-
- Dancing 71 Hamilton Place_
-
-It is permissible to write the initials, _R.s.v.p._ below the word
-_Dancing_.
-
-In place of _Dancing_, the word _Cotillon_ may appear, if the whole
-evening is to be devoted especially to this dance. So, too, the words
-_Bal Poudré_ may be substituted for _Dancing_, if the affair is to be
-a costume ball. Or any other form of entertainment may be similarly
-indicated.
-
-The form used in accepting or declining such an invitation follows
-exactly the wording given in a later chapter in connection with
-dinner-invitations.
-
-It is the duty of the hostess to greet her guests as at a dinner-party,
-and a daughter or daughters may assist her in her hospitable duties,
-but such assistance is not required of them. The host, also, may join
-his wife in receiving, and may make himself socially useful by various
-attentions to the guests. But such action on his part is discretionary,
-except that in the case of a woman guest of particular importance,
-he should take her in to supper if this is served at tables. Where a
-buffet supper is served, it is fitting that he should escort various
-guests from time to time.
-
-It is not always necessary to invite mothers or chaperons to a private
-ball, and in that case a girl may be sent with a maid to accompany
-her. When the mother receives an invitation and accepts it, she may
-choose not to remain, but to leave after entrusting her daughter to the
-care of the hostess, or some other friend.
-
-At elaborate dances, the supper at midnight is served on small tables,
-at which the guests are seated. The buffet supper is popular on account
-of its convenience, since the guests select whatever pleases them at
-any time.
-
-Unlike the rule as to dinners, there is no obligation for prompt
-arrival on the ball guest. Likewise, the guest may leave at any time.
-It is not necessary to seek the hostess for a farewell, but if she is
-near, she should be addressed with appropriate phrase in appreciation
-of the hospitality that has been enjoyed.
-
-A girl at a ball usually establishes herself in a seat by her chaperon,
-to whom she returns according to her convenience after dancing. It
-is perfectly proper for her, if at any time she wishes to be rid of
-a partner, to ask that he accompany her back to this seat beside her
-chaperon.
-
-Evening clothes are essential for the male guest at a ball, and the
-wearing of white gloves is obligatory. A careful man is very likely to
-provide himself with an extra pair. At informal dances, ungloved men
-often cover the hand with a handkerchief to avoid any risk of soiling a
-partner’s bodice. If a man serves as escort for a woman, or for a girl
-and her chaperon, it is a part of his duty to provide a carriage to and
-fro.
-
-The ball-dress for women is usually the most elegant their taste and
-means will contrive. It is always decolleté, and commonly sleeveless.
-
-
-
-
-BREAKFASTS
-
-
-A HOSTESS MAY USE her visiting-card for invitations to breakfast,
-simply writing on it below her name:
-
- _Breakfast at eleven o’clock
- April the fourth_
-
-A more formal affair may have an engraved invitation on paper similar
-to that used in the case of dinners. This would have the following form:
-
- _Mrs. George Vinton Thorne
-
- requests the pleasure of
-
- ................................
-
- company at breakfast
-
- on....................................
-
- at.............................o’clock
-
- Eleven Green Street_
-
-Or the hostess may, if she prefers, write a brief note of invitation
-in the first person. Whatever form is employed, the invitations should
-be sent out a full week, or a little more, before the date set for the
-breakfast.
-
-The answer to such an invitation should be sent promptly, whether
-in acceptance or in refusal. The form is identical with that for
-dinner-invitations, except that the word _breakfast_ is substituted for
-the word _dinner_.
-
-Where the invitation is a note written in the first person, the answer
-must follow the same style.
-
-A breakfast of the more informal sort, with no more than eight or
-ten guests, may begin as early as ten o’clock, but a later hour is
-preferred for very ceremonious affairs, with noon most esteemed as the
-hour.
-
-Grapefruit is usually served, with finger-bowl accompaniment, and the
-meal that follows may be as simple or as elaborate as the taste and
-resources of the hostess dictate.
-
-Usually both sexes are included among the guests at a breakfast. The
-women remove their gloves after taking their places at table, but not
-their hats. Veils may be removed entirely or pushed up out of the way,
-according to the wearer’s choice.
-
-The guest should remain at least a half-hour after the conclusion of
-the meal, but not longer than an hour unless justified by exceptional
-circumstances.
-
-Frock or cutaway coats are worn by the men, and afternoon dress by the
-women. The costumes for a ten o’clock breakfast should be somewhat
-plainer than for one at the more formal hour of noon.
-
-
-
-
-CALLS
-
-
-FORMAL CALLS are to be made in the afternoon between three o’clock and
-half-past five.
-
-If a hostess has a day at home, formal calls on her should be made on
-that day. It is well also so to time visits for congratulation or to
-return thanks for any hospitality, or the like, as to have them also
-fall on the day at home. Usually, a due attention by visitors to this
-set time for calling is appreciated by a hostess.
-
-While the formal hours for calls are in the afternoon as indicated
-above, the time varies in different neighborhoods. Evening calls are
-common in the country necessarily as a matter of convenience. And,
-while in the city women pay no formal calls on Sunday, these are
-permitted in smaller places. Ordinarily, too, there is license in the
-country as to the length even of formal calls, which may be extended
-without impropriety far beyond the limit of fifteen or twenty minutes
-which is well established in the city. A new resident or visitor in any
-community should be at pains to get information as to the local usage,
-and conform to it in all details.
-
-It is permissible for men in our country to make social calls in the
-afternoon on Sunday, or in the evening. The exigencies of business
-are the excuse for the departure from the stricter form, which still
-holds in the case of women. The hour of such evening calls in the
-larger cities is from eight to nine, but the time is earlier in smaller
-towns and in the country. In every instance, the local custom is to be
-followed. Of course, too, men of leisure may pay their calls in the
-afternoon.
-
-New residents in a neighborhood must await calls from those already
-established there. In the city, the first calls of the social season
-should be received by the hostess who first sends out her at-home
-cards. Where women have met out of town, and wish to continue the
-acquaintance in the city, the unmarried woman should call on the
-matron, or one who is under any obligation for hospitality should make
-the first call. Unless a distinction be drawn for some such reason,
-either may properly pay the first visit.
-
-It is notorious that in the large cities there is no welcome for
-the newcomer from the dweller next door or across the street. The
-conditions of city life justify such aloofness. On the other hand, the
-conditions of life in the smaller places warrant exactly the opposite
-in the matter of hospitality. It is the recognized duty of the older
-residents to welcome new arrivals by calling on them promptly, after
-the strangers have had time to dispose themselves comfortably.
-
-There are many varieties of those calls that are imposed by formal
-courtesy. Thus, in the matter of weddings, it becomes the duty of any
-one who has taken official part in the affair, such as a bride’s-maid
-or a best man, to call on the mother of the bride within a few days
-after the marriage ceremony, and also to call on the bride immediately
-after her return from the honeymoon trip. The like duty devolves on
-invited guests to a home wedding, to a wedding-reception and to a
-wedding-breakfast.
-
-A similar formal call should be paid to the hostess by each guest at
-a dinner, or breakfast, or other special entertainment. Such a call
-must be made within two weeks. The obligation is the same even in cases
-where the invitation has been declined.
-
-As to the returning of calls, such visits should be made on the day at
-home if there is one, and otherwise at a suitable time according to the
-social usage of the neighborhood within a fortnight. But this ruling
-applies properly only to the return for a first call. Afterward, a
-longer or shorter interval may elapse between visits according to
-the desire of the parties concerned. A former acquaintance may be
-maintained merely by an annual exchange of calls. It must be noted,
-however, that a call in person demands a personal visit in return. The
-formal leaving of a card at the door does not suffice.
-
-Persons giving up their residence in a community or going on a long
-journey should send their cards to their full visiting-list with the
-initials _P.p.c._ (_Pour prendre congé_, for leave-taking).
-
-It occurs often that a person wishes to call on a friend in the home of
-a stranger. Such a call is permissible, but the visitor should ask for
-the hostess as well as the friend, and leave a card for her.
-
-In the matter of initiative, it is fitting that an elder woman should
-invite a younger to the exchange of cards and calls, and that the
-matron should thus invite the maiden. Where there is equality of years
-or station, the first advance must depend on the personal inclinations
-of the parties.
-
-The proprieties in reference to calls between women are thus seen to
-be simple enough. There is more complexity in the procedure when it
-has to do with the calling of men on women. It is not deemed proper
-for a young unmarried woman to invite calls from men. Such visits on
-their part are left to the discretion of the mother or chaperon. But,
-undoubtedly, the débutante will see to it that mother or chaperon
-does not fail in her functions. As to the older women, and those
-married, there is some variation locally in the polite usage. Sometimes
-the woman feels it her privilege to invite the man to call without
-awaiting solicitation on his part; sometimes she requires that the
-advance should be on the part of the man in the form of a request for
-permission to visit her.
-
-If any person requires that a definite time should be given for the
-emancipation of a girl from the social dominance of her mother or
-chaperon, it may be set at about the twenty-fifth year, after which
-time a young woman is theoretically fitted to decide for herself as to
-who her visitors shall be.
-
-A young woman of sensibility will be extremely chary of her invitations
-to men, and very sure before extending them that they are really
-desired. If at any time a man fails to avail himself of such an
-invitation, her self-respect will not permit her to repeat it.
-
-The strictness of the above rules of conduct has been greatly relaxed
-in the case of the average American girl, who democratically insists
-from the outset of her social career on her own choice in the matter
-of acquaintances and friends. But even this laxity does not permit an
-invitation to a man on the first meeting. Such haste is neither good
-form nor ordinary prudence.
-
-In a consideration of formal calls, it should be noted that in
-practise the offices of the wife are commonly accepted in her husband’s
-behalf by her leaving his card when she pays her dinner-call, or the
-like. The exigencies of business are supposed to justify this vicarious
-method.
-
-While it is proper for a woman to call upon a man for business reasons,
-social calls are forbidden.
-
-Calls of condolence, except when there is an intimate friendship, are
-properly made by leaving a card. The expression of sympathy is usually
-best made by a brief note.
-
-Calls of congratulation may be made by acquaintances of both sexes on a
-woman who announces her engagement to be married. Calls following the
-announcement of a birth are expected by the mother from the women of
-her acquaintance.
-
-The day at home is such a social convenience that it is popular, not
-only in the cities, but in many smaller towns. It is usually set for
-one afternoon in the week, sometimes for an afternoon each two weeks
-during the social season. The day should appear on the visiting-card.
-The hours for entertaining on the day at home are from three until six,
-but this period is frequently extended for another hour. The hostess
-should devote herself assiduously to her guests, and should provide
-some light forms of food and drink. Usually, tea is served. Sufficient
-notice is given of the day at home by sending out the visiting-cards
-at the beginning of the season. One advantage of the day at home is
-that it justifies the hostess in not receiving casual callers on other
-occasions.
-
-It is the duty of the hostess to meet and address each guest with a
-handshake. “How do you do, Mrs. Smith? I am so glad to see you!” or a
-similar phrase, should be used in greeting each arrival. She should
-also introduce strangers to other guests near by. She should not leave
-the reception-room to make her farewells to departing guests, unless in
-case of some person of particular distinction. “Good-afternoon, Mr.
-Brown. I shall hope to see you again very soon,” or the like, affords a
-sufficient form of farewell.
-
-If the husband is present during his wife’s at home, he should
-undertake to second her hospitable efforts to the best of his ability,
-showing attention to any requiring it.
-
-A woman caller does not remove her gloves or veil, or even her wrap,
-unless it is a heavy one. But rubbers and umbrella and any heavy outer
-garment should be left in the hall.
-
-For a man, formal politeness permits the carrying of both hat and
-stick into the drawing-room. But this rule is to-day more honored in
-the breach than in the observance. And, too, the right hand at least
-is usually ungloved. The hat and stick, when carried, are held in the
-left hand, and should be retained throughout the call, though it is
-permissible to put them down on the floor beside one, for greater
-convenience when taking refreshments.
-
-When the day at home is of a formal sort, the women do not exchange
-kisses in greeting, and the gloves are not taken off even when tea is
-drunk.
-
-
-
-
-CARDS
-
-
-VISITING-CARDS are of three sizes, which remain practically the same
-year after year. The largest is that used by matrons, while that of
-the unmarried woman is a very little smaller, and that of the man much
-smaller. The present style as to materials favors a polished bristol
-board that is white and substantial without being too heavy. This
-should be printed from an engraved plate in black ink. The lettering
-may be a running script or old English.
-
-Under no circumstances should a woman’s card carry any prefix other
-than _Mrs._ or _Miss_, but one or the other of these invariably
-appears. This rule does not apply in the case of professional women
-who may wish a distinctive card for business purposes, with its prefix
-of _Dr._ or _Rev._ Such a card would also carry the address in the
-lower right-hand corner and perhaps office-hours in the lower left-hand
-corner. But even the professional woman requires the plainer form of
-card for social purposes.
-
-There is a tendency at present to give the name in full on the card.
-For example, _Mrs. John James Smith_, or _Miss Maude MacArthur_.
-
-It is permissible for the senior matron of a family to use only the
-family name on her card with the prefix: for example, _Mrs. Fuller_.
-It is more common, however, to omit the Christian name of an eldest
-daughter who is unmarried: _Miss Fuller_. The other daughters require
-the Christian name on their cards: _Miss Mary Fuller_, _Miss Gladys
-Fuller_.
-
-The tendency in this country is strongly against the omission of the
-name in either of the above cases. Although it is perfectly correct as
-a social usage, it is opposed to the spirit of our institutions.
-
-There is some variation in the use of the name on the card in the case
-of a widow. It is within the woman’s choice whether she will continue
-to use the Christian name of her husband on the card, or will put her
-own in place of it. In other words, she may use the same cards after
-the death of her husband as before if she prefers, or she may follow
-the _Mrs._ with her own Christian name. A common form to-day gives
-the woman’s Christian name and the surname to which she was born and
-finally the surname of her husband. A present vogue permits also the
-use of only the two surnames, without the Christian name. Thus, Mary
-Brown marries James Robinson. The husband dies and the widow changes
-her visiting-cards, which have read, _Mrs. James Robinson_, so that
-they now read, _Mrs. Mary Robinson_. Then presently she grows ambitious
-socially and has her cards changed to read, _Mrs. Mary Brown Robinson_.
-Soon, she seizes on a newer style, and again changes her cards in
-accordance with it to read, _Mrs. Brown Robinson_.
-
-It should be noted that the variations in cards practised by widows are
-used also by divorced women. And when a divorcée resumes her maiden
-name she properly uses with it the prefix _Mrs._, not _Miss_.
-
-As a matter of strict propriety, a girl during her first social season
-does not formally use an individual card. Her name appears below that
-of her mother in the same lettering. When making calls unaccompanied by
-her mother, the latter’s name is crossed out with a pencil mark.
-
-Where two daughters of nearly the same age are concerned, both are
-included on the mother’s card by the words _The Misses_, followed by
-the family name.
-
-The above details are applied especially to a débutante in the first
-season. Afterward, a young woman uses her own individual card when
-calling alone. But this card should not carry on it the day at home.
-The at-home statement appears on the mother’s individual card. It is
-given also on the card combining the names of mother and daughter. The
-combination card may with correctness be frequently used in appropriate
-circumstances until the daughter’s marriage.
-
-The notice of the day at home is placed in the lower left-hand
-corner of the card. Only the day of the week is given, or with such
-qualification as may be required if the at-home day is not of weekly
-recurrence. The hours should not be specified unless they are a
-distinct variation from the customary time, between three and six. In
-addition, a time limit to the at homes may be specified. Thus, _Fridays
-until March_. Of course, the beginning is set for any individual by
-reception of the card.
-
-A married woman finds frequent use for a card in combination with her
-husband, though this by no means takes the place of her individual
-cards, and, while it bears the address in the lower right-hand corner,
-does not usually give the at-home day. This card may properly be used
-for those formal occasions in which her husband is concerned. For
-example, it may fittingly accompany a gift from husband and wife. It
-serves also for announcing a marriage with the residence of the bridal
-couple.
-
-A man’s visiting-card always carries the prefix _Mr._ The single
-exception to this is when _Jr._ follows the name. The name is commonly
-given in full, but it is permissible to use only the initial of the
-middle name. It is strictly proper for the male head of a family to use
-only the family name on his card, preceded by _Mr._ Thus, the head of
-the Smiths—could he be located—might use on his visiting-card merely
-_Mr. Smith_, instead of _Mr. John Smith_.
-
-The home address appears in the lower right-hand corner of the card,
-and a bachelor may add also the name of a club in the lower left-hand
-corner. The business address, of course, should never appear on the
-card used for social purposes. Likewise, a day at home should not be
-given by a bachelor even though he may entertain regularly.
-
-It is a safe rule to avoid titles on the visiting-cards of men as of
-women. The only exceptions are in instances little likely to concern
-the average reader of this book. Such instances are afforded by the
-President of the United States, the Vice-President, Ambassadors, the
-higher Judiciary, Army and Navy Officers, clergymen and physicians. The
-custom in the army, however, forbids any prefix except plain _Mr._ to
-an officer below the rank of Captain.
-
-In the case of all officers the nature of his command is properly
-stated in a lower corner of the card.
-
-Lawyers and physicians should have only the home address on the card
-used for social purposes. Another card with the business address
-should be used for business purposes. But _Dr._ is properly used by
-the physician in place of _Mr._ on his visiting-cards. Likewise, a
-clergyman uses _Reverend_, or its abbreviation _Rev._, on all his
-cards, which are commonly identical for both social and professional
-uses.
-
-The letters indicative of degrees are not given after the name on the
-visiting-card, though a single exception is sometimes made by clergymen
-who omit _Rev._ before their names and, in lieu of it, use _D.D._
-following the name.
-
-When it becomes necessary, for any reason, to write one’s name on a
-visiting-card, the prefix _Mr._ should be given, following the ordinary
-form of the engraved card.
-
-Care should be taken in the case of mourning-cards to avoid a too
-ostentatious parade of grief by an unduly broad margin of black.
-Somewhat less than a half inch is permissible for a widow’s card, and,
-after the first year, it is well to have this width reduced. Often,
-other reductions in the size of the border are made at intervals of six
-months, as long as the period of mourning continues.
-
-The card of a widower must carry a border proportionately narrower, as
-its size is smaller than a woman’s card, but the decrease in width is
-made after the same manner.
-
-When a woman elects to remain in mourning permanently, the narrow black
-border may be retained throughout her lifetime.
-
-It is not customary to make variations in the mourning border for the
-commemoration of persons other than husband or wife. For these, a
-fitting width is about a twelfth part of an inch, which remains the
-same throughout the period of mourning.
-
-When a call is made on a day at home, the card or cards are commonly
-left in the hall on a tray placed for that purpose. A married woman
-calling on the at-home day of another married woman for the first time
-in the season leaves her own card and two of her husband’s cards. But
-in later calls on the at-home day she leaves her card and the two cards
-of her husband’s only when the call acknowledges entertainment offered
-to them by the hostess.
-
-There has been considerable simplification in recent years as to the
-leaving of cards. They are no longer weirdly bent in sign of delivery
-in person, and a smaller number are used. Thus, though the hostess
-referred to above may have unmarried daughters receiving with her,
-cards for them need not be left. But the presence of a married daughter
-or a friend formally assisting in the reception of the guests requires
-the leaving of a card.
-
-A woman leaves no cards for the men of the family where she visits.
-
-It is the business of the wife to fulfill her husband’s formal social
-duties by leaving his cards with hers whenever entertainment should be
-acknowledged.
-
-Where two spinsters share a residence, a woman caller, the first time
-in the season, should leave two of her cards, and also, if she is a
-married woman, two of her husband’s. So, too, a card should be left
-for a daughter or sister who is hostess of the house, even though she
-may be unmarried.
-
-When an unmarried girl uses her individual card, she should follow the
-procedure indicated for the matron in the use of hers. Or she may use
-the combination card of her mother and herself as already described
-above.
-
-A call on a mother and daughter who are out requires the leaving of two
-cards. The same procedure is necessary in the case of a hostess who
-has a friend staying with her. Likewise, a call made on a friend who
-is a guest in another’s house demands the leaving of two cards. This
-rule applies in the case of a man as well as of a woman. It should be
-observed that two cards are deemed sufficient in most cases. Where,
-however, the hostess has a guest staying with her and also daughters of
-her own, three cards are to be left.
-
-A man wishing to call on a particular woman must be punctilious
-in leaving cards not only for the particular one in whom he is
-interested, but also for the mother or chaperon, and still a third for
-the host. But, if a call is made on a woman on her at-home day, no card
-need be left, unless the call is in acknowledgment of entertainment. In
-the latter case, a single card is left for the host. It is advisable,
-however, that in his first call he should leave a card for convenience
-in the matter of address.
-
-It is permissible on certain occasions to leave visiting-cards with
-the servant at the door, or to send them through the mail or by a
-messenger, instead of making the call in person. Sometimes a woman who
-is owing a call thus sends her card along with an invitation, as for
-luncheon or dinner. The invitation is considered to justify the merely
-formal matter of the card. So, too, a person receiving an invitation
-from a hostess who is a stranger must, if the invitation is declined,
-leave cards within two weeks after the date of the entertainment. An
-invalid may send cards through the post in acknowledgment of calls of
-inquiry, and a woman in mourning is able to fulfill her obligations in
-the same manner. Cards are formally left by all who receive invitations
-to a church wedding, and the requirement is the same for those to whom
-an announcement of the marriage is sent. Such cards are demanded of
-men and women both, to be left for the mother of the bride within a
-fortnight after the ceremony. Cards are left within a proper time after
-any form of entertainment to which the members of a club are invited,
-though there may be no other social acquaintance with the hostess. In
-calls of condolence or inquiry, cards are always left. They may be used
-also, as hereinbefore stated, to announce a prolonged absence or a
-change of address.
-
-When cards are left in person, they are delivered to the servant
-at the door. One or two or three are to be left according to the
-circumstances. The caller should tell the servant the persons for whom
-the cards are designed.
-
-Good taste dictates that calls of inquiry concerning the condition of a
-sick person should be made in person. Cards should be left at the time
-of such calls, except in the case of intimates. The cards should not be
-mailed or sent by messenger.
-
-Acknowledgment of cards of condolence are made after a funeral by a
-large black-edged card of thanks, which should be sent within a month.
-Such cards are usually merely printed, not engraved. The wording should
-be of the simplest.
-
- _Mrs. Jack Robinson
-
- returns thanks to
-
- .............................
-
- for her kind sympathy_
-
-The address of the one sending the card should appear at the bottom.
-
-The form is varied according to circumstances. Thus:
-
- _Mrs. Montgomery James and Family
- return thanks for your kind sympathy_
-
-Some persons prefer to leave their visiting-cards with the mourning
-border on those to whom acknowledgment is due, instead of sending
-the special card by mail. Personal calls, however, are not made by
-those in mourning within three months at least of the time of the
-funeral. If earlier acknowledgment is to be made, the visiting-card
-with mourning-border may be sent by mail within a few weeks. A word of
-thanks should be written on the card. For example:
-
- _With grateful appreciation of your sympathy_
-
-The use of _P.p.c._ cards has already been described in the chapter
-on calls. It should be added that they are convenient when one is
-leaving on short notice without time to pay in person all calls due.
-The _P.p.c._ card involves no duty of acknowledgment on the part of its
-recipient.
-
-A woman temporarily stopping in any place sends cards containing
-her address to any acquaintances she may have there. Her ordinary
-visiting-card serves the purpose, with a pencil line drawn through the
-engraved address and the temporary one written above it. But a man, in
-the same circumstances, makes his calls in person.
-
-The new-born infant embarks on its social career by means of the card.
-The birth of a child is made known to the mother’s social list by
-mailing the mother’s card, which has tied to it by a strip of white
-satin ribbon a card only a quarter as large carrying the full name of
-the baby. In this case, the prefix _Mr._ or _Miss_ is omitted, but the
-date of birth appears in a lower corner. The recipients of these cards
-are required to call with inquiry as to the health of the senders,
-and to leave their cards in return. Persons residing at a distance
-may post their cards of acknowledgment, with a penciled phrase of
-congratulation.
-
-
-
-
-DINNERS
-
-
-FORMAL INVITATIONS to dinner should be sent between five and ten days
-before the date. A hostess may use her own discretion as to whether she
-will write the invitations by hand or use an engraved form. The wording
-is the same in either case.
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Walter Peck
-
- request the pleasure of
-
- ...........................................
-
- company at dinner
-
- on.................evening
-
- at........................o’clock
-
- 401 Armstrong Street_
-
-The engraved form should be printed on a large, heavy piece of bristol
-board in old English or block type, or in script. When the dinner has
-a guest of honor, notice of the fact may be given by a line across the
-bottom of the invitation:
-
- _To meet Captain Arthur Shayne_
-
-Or a special small card may be inclosed with the invitation, on which
-is engraved a similar phrase.
-
-When the affair is of extraordinary importance, the form of invitation
-may dignify the purpose by announcing it at the outset.
-
- _To meet
-
- The Bishop of Albany
-
- Mr. and Mrs. William Astor
-
- request the pleasure of
-
- ........................................
-
- company at dinner
-
- on...........................evening
-
- at.............................o’clock
-
- 401 Armstrong Street_
-
-For dinners to which only a small number of persons are invited and
-these mutually acquainted, the formal mode of invitation is not
-required. A simple note is sufficient.
-
- _31 Hamilton Place,
- March 7th, 1919_
-
- _My Dear Mrs. Robinson:_
-
- _Will you and Mr. Robinson, if disengaged, give us
- the pleasure of your company at dinner on Friday the
- thirteenth, at half-past seven o’clock?_
-
- _Yours sincerely,
- Edith MacArthur_
-
-This form may be varied according to the taste of the writer and the
-degree of intimacy with the person to whom the invitation is sent.
-
-When it becomes necessary to invite some one to take the place of a
-guest who is unable to be present, this late invitation should not
-be of the formal sort, but should be contained in a note frankly
-explaining the circumstances. Such invitations, of course, are never
-made to merely formal acquaintances.
-
-The custom formerly prevailed of writing the initials _R.s.v.p._, on
-the dinner invitations, the initials of the French words, répondez,
-s’il vous plaît (reply if you please). But this usage has lost favor.
-
-An invitation to dinner demands an immediate answer, either accepting
-or declining. The invitation cannot be accepted conditionally, nor can
-the decision be delayed. The form of reply should be as simple as the
-form of the invitation.
-
- _17 North Street
-
- April 30th, 1919
-
- Mr. and Mrs. Sloan Potter
-
- accept with pleasure
-
- Mr. and Mrs. John Morehouse’s
-
- invitation to dinner
-
- Tuesday evening, May the sixth
-
- at half-past seven_
-
-For a declination, the following form may be used:
-
- _17 North Street
-
- April 30, 1919
-
- Mr. and Mrs. Sloan Potter
-
- regret that their absence from the city
-
- must prevent their acceptance of
-
- Mr. and Mrs. John Morehouse’s
-
- invitation to dinner on
-
- Tuesday evening, May the sixth
-
- at half-past seven_
-
-The invitation in the form of a note is answered similarly by a note.
-Thus:
-
- _42 Chestnut Street
- April 30, 1919
-
- My Dear Mrs. Morehouse:_
-
- _It is with much pleasure that I accept your kind
- invitation to dinner on Tuesday evening, the sixth, at
- half-past seven o’clock._
-
- _Yours sincerely,
- Helen Potter_
-
-A declination should state a courteous reason.
-
-All such answers are addressed to the hostess alone. If she is married
-the husband is, nevertheless, omitted from the address.
-
-The reply to an informal invitation should always be correspondingly
-informal.
-
-For a formal dinner, there should be an even number of guests, eight or
-ten, or more, with the sexes evenly divided.
-
-Either a round or square table will serve, but it should be large
-enough to accommodate all the party without crowding.
-
-A pad should cover the table. The white cloth over this should be so
-large that the corners reach nearly to the floor.
-
-A folded napkin is placed on each plate, with a roll or piece of bread
-laid within it. Three forks are laid to the left of the plate, with
-prongs up. Two steel knives are to the right of the plate, and then a
-silver knife, the edge of each to the left. A soup spoon follows the
-silver knife, and then an oyster fork. Other utensils are sometimes
-added, but are not necessary.
-
-A goblet for water is placed before the knives. With it are grouped
-whatever wine glasses may be required. A small card lying on the napkin
-carries the name of the guest to be seated here.
-
-When dinner is announced, the host offers his arm to the woman who is
-to sit on his right, and leads the way to the dining-room. Already, in
-welcoming the guests, the hostess has made known the dinner-partners,
-introducing them when necessary. These now follow in pairs to the
-dining-room. The hostess brings up the rear. The guests find their
-places by the cards.
-
-The hostess does not rise in greeting a late arrival, even a woman. But
-the host does, and sees to the seating of the laggard.
-
-It has long been the custom for the ladies to leave the dining-room
-after the fruit course, and to have coffee served in the drawing-room.
-In such case, the men stand until the women have passed out.
-Afterward, they seat themselves where they please, and smoking is
-permitted. The present-day tendency, however, is toward lessening
-the time of this separation and often doing away with it altogether,
-especially at less formal dinners, which otherwise follow an
-essentially identical routine.
-
-Both host and hostess must say farewell, standing, with a handclasp, to
-each guest.
-
-As for the guest, his first duty is to arrive exactly on time. Fifteen
-minutes of delay is the limit.
-
-On ceremonious occasions, the hostess writes a lady’s name on a card,
-and places it in an envelope. This is given to the male guest on his
-arrival by a servant, and from it he learns the identity of the one he
-is to take in to dinner. When the dinner is announced, he offers his
-arm, and escorts the woman into the dining-room, where he pulls out her
-chair, and stands until she is seated.
-
-It is permissible for dinner-partners, after the opening courses, to
-give some attention to their other immediate neighbors.
-
-A guest is free to leave at any time after the conclusion of the
-dinner. Usually, an hour is long enough to remain after the meal is
-ended.
-
-In taking leave, the guest must express a courteous appreciation of the
-hospitality that has been extended.
-
-“I am under deep obligation to you, Mrs. Johnson, for a most delightful
-evening.”
-
-This, or any similar pleasant phrases of gratitude, will serve. The
-words of appreciation should be particularly addressed to the hostess
-always.
-
-Evening dress is required for all guests at a formal dinner. For
-men, the regulation swallow-tail is imperative. The wearing of a
-dinner-jacket is not allowable on any occasion of ceremony.
-
-
-
-
-GARDEN-PARTIES
-
-
-GARDEN-PARTIES are probably destined to grow in popularity in this
-century, for they offer one of the simplest and most pleasant forms of
-entertainment during those seasons when the outdoors is attractive.
-
-For such an affair, the hostess sends out invitations about ten days
-beforehand. These may be engraved on white bristol board, in which case
-either one of two forms is permissible.
-
- _Mrs. Melville Stratton
-
- At Home
-
- Friday afternoon, April third
-
- from four until seven o’clock
-
- Garden-Party Nine Park Square_
-
-Or:
-
- _Mrs. Melville Stratton
-
- requests the pleasure of
-
- .............................
-
- company on Friday afternoon
-
- April third
-
- from four until seven o’clock
-
- Garden-Party Nine Park Square_
-
-If less pretentiousness is preferred for the occasion, the hostess may
-merely use a visiting-card. Below her name she writes:
-
- _Garden-Party, April third, four to
- seven o’clock._
-
-Still a third method of issuing the invitations is by means of a short
-note, written in the first person.
-
-The formal engraved invitation demands a prompt reply, written in
-the third person. An acceptance might properly take this mode of
-expression:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Clinton Brewster
-
- accept with pleasure
-
- Mrs. Stratton’s kind invitation
-
- for April third.
-
- Thirty Abernethey Row
-
- May twenty-fifth, 1919_
-
-A refusal might be in the following form:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Clinton Brewster
-
- regret that a previous engagement
-
-
- prevents their acceptance
-
- of Mrs. Stratton’s kind invitation
-
- for April third
-
-
- Thirty Abernethey Row
- May twenty-fifth, 1919_
-
-When the invitation is by means of the visiting-card, an answer is not
-obligatory. Yet, it is well to acknowledge this form of invitation,
-also, by sending a short note written in the first person, either
-accepting or refusing.
-
-Of course, when the invitation itself takes the form of a note, the
-answer should follow the same style.
-
-It is part of the duty of the hostess to put her house in order, as
-well as the grounds. The guests on arriving may, in many cases, go
-within before greeting the hostess, to lay aside wraps or heavy veils.
-Moreover, weather conditions may make it necessary to seek shelter
-indoors. It is often convenient also to have the refreshments set
-out on the porch. These should include hot and cold tea, punch or
-claret-cup, cakes, sandwiches, salads, fruits in season, and the like,
-which are partaken of by the guests according to their pleasure.
-
-Or a marquée may shelter the refreshments—a tent roof set up at any
-desired place on the lawn.
-
-The hostess receives her guests on the lawn. She wears an afternoon
-gown, suitable for the season, and a hat. But, if she prefers, she may
-leave off the hat, and use a parasol in its stead.
-
-The women guests, too, wear their most effective afternoon gowns and
-also hats and veils and gloves, which are not taken off.
-
-The men may wear frock or morning coats and silk hats, and this garb
-is common at garden-parties in England. In this country, however, more
-comfortable clothes are popular, and flannels, or other fabrics of
-light material, are favored.
-
-Guests leave their cards on a tray provided for that purpose in the
-hallway of the house. The requirements concerning cards have already
-been fully explained in the chapters on cards and at homes.
-
-After greeting the hostess, a guest must remain for at least twenty
-minutes, and may properly continue on throughout the whole afternoon.
-
-Discretion should be used in the matter of saying farewell. It should
-be omitted if the hostess is occupied. If she is free, good-bye may be
-spoken, and with it a phrase in appreciation of the hospitality.
-
-
-
-
-HOUSE-PARTIES
-
-
-THE HOUSE-PARTY is made up of any number of guests, from half a dozen
-to a score, and may be merely for a few days or for any desired length
-of time. But, whatever is to be the length of the guest’s stay, it
-should be specifically stated in the invitation. It is a common saying
-that an invitation that sets no time for the visit is no invitation at
-all, and the saying is quite true.
-
-So, in writing her invitation, a hostess mentions the exact day for
-the guest’s arrival, and, as well, the exact day of departure. The
-invitation is always a note written in the first person. The following
-may serve as an illustration:
-
- _The Oaks, Hyde Park.
- April 10, 1919._
-
- _Dear Mrs. Ashland:_
-
- _I should be delighted to have you come to us for the
- next week-end, and I hope that there is no previous
- engagement to prevent your giving us this pleasure._
-
- _The best train for you to take from the city is the
- one leaving at three in the afternoon. Mr. Lawrence
- will meet this at the station here on Friday._
-
- _In eager anticipation of your visit, believe me,_
-
- _Cordially yours,
- Ella Lawrence_
-
-The guest’s answer to the invitation must be of the promptest, whether
-it accepts or rejects the proposal of a visit. It should, of course, be
-written in the first person. The wording is a matter for the individual
-taste, and the form following is offered merely as a suggestion.
-
- _47 Tremont St.,
- New York._
- _April 11, 1919._
-
- _Dear Mrs. Lawrence:_
-
- _I am more pleased than I can tell you to receive your
- kind invitation, since there is nothing to prevent my
- acceptance of it. I shall take the three o’clock train
- on Friday afternoon for Hyde Park, and I am looking
- forward very eagerly to being with you so soon._
-
- _Yours sincerely,
- Roberta Ashland_
-
-The declination of the invitation should contain some fitting
-expression of regret, and an explanation as to the causes that render
-an acceptance impossible.
-
-It is imperative that a girl should be met at the station by her host
-in person, or, if convenient, preferably by the hostess, or perhaps by
-both. But this attention is not obligatory in the case of a married
-couple or with a bachelor guest. But these, too, should be met at the
-station by a servant if not by the host, and duly conveyed to the house
-where they are to be entertained.
-
-The guest on arrival should be welcomed at the entrance by the hostess,
-if she has not been to the station, and after the greetings she escorts
-the guest, if this is a woman, to the chamber she is to occupy, and
-there leaves her to freshen herself after the journey.
-
-When the luggage is brought in, a competent maid will unpack it and
-distribute the contents through the drawers of the bureau and in the
-closet, and render such other services as may be required. A less
-competent maid can at least unstrap the luggage, remove trays, and help
-in the disposal of the contents.
-
-In the case of a man, after being greeted by his hostess, he is
-conducted to his room by the host.
-
-The wardrobe requirements for the visitor at a house-party are
-regulated by the probable nature of the entertainment that will be
-provided, by the season of the year, and by the particular social
-status of the hosts. No hard-and-fast rule can be given. Thus, where a
-woman visits a country house for a few days in the summer, she needs
-no larger wardrobe than can be carried in the tiniest of trunks,
-suitcase and hat-box. The hat used for traveling will serve her also on
-occasion during the visit, but she will need in addition a sport-hat
-for tramping or out-door games and another hat of sufficient elegance
-for wear at a lawn party or wherever more elaborate dress is necessary.
-The frocks should follow the lines thus indicated, and there should
-be a sufficiency of dainty waists and footgear besides the inevitable
-decolleté gowns for evening wear.
-
-For the man, also, evening clothes are essential, and he should be
-provided with flannels, besides the business suit in which he travels.
-For winter, the change in season would demand a corresponding change
-in the matter of dress, especially for out of doors.
-
-The hostess plans sufficient entertainment for her guests, but, if
-she is discreet, she does not plan too many things. It is customary
-to leave the mornings to the devices of the guests, to be occupied by
-them according to their individual pleasure. Where a morning start is
-required on some expedition, such as a picnic, the hostess is likely to
-leave the evening free from any special entertainment.
-
-It is the duty of the guest to conform to the habits of the household.
-If the party assembles together for breakfast, he or she must make
-one of the number though the hour may be too early or too late for
-personal convenience. Likewise, the guest should accept such disposal
-of his or her time as the hostess may choose to make, even when the
-preference would be quite otherwise. The tactful hostess, of course,
-studies the likes and dislikes of her guests, and seeks to reconcile
-her hospitality so far as possible to their prejudices.
-
-It is customary to give tips on leaving a house-party to those servants
-with whom the guest has been brought more closely in contact. The maid
-who has attended to the room should receive a dollar from the visitor
-for a few days; the butler, if there is one, should receive a dollar
-and a half. The amount for the chauffeur should be regulated to some
-extent by his personal service in the guest’s behalf. Where there has
-been none, a dollar is sufficient.
-
-These figures are applicable in the cases of unmarried women and
-bachelors, although the tendency of the latter is to give more. The
-sums named, however, are regarded as acceptable by the servants
-themselves. Naturally, they enjoy the lavish, even prodigal tips given
-by certain persons of wealth, who are more ostentatious than discreet.
-Such indiscretions, however, need not set up a false standard for other
-guests.
-
-In the case of a husband and wife, the tips to maid and butler, etc.,
-should be increased. It is usual for the wife to tip the female
-servants, while the husband satisfies those of his own sex. When the
-care of the guest’s shoes devolves on a house-boy, he, too, should be
-remembered with a half-dollar.
-
-The male guests frequently give a tip of a dollar or more to the cook.
-
-It is the duty of the hostess in the case of a woman visitor to bid
-her farewell in person, even if this should necessitate arising at an
-unpleasantly early hour. But in the case of a man’s leaving thus early,
-it suffices if she makes her farewell the night before. It then becomes
-the duty of the host to attend on the guest for the breakfast and
-departure.
-
-In about a week after such a visit, the guest should write a note to
-the hostess, expressing warm appreciation of the hospitality thus
-enjoyed. It is also permissible for the guest to send a gift that is
-not too costly, such as a book, or any simple thing that may serve
-as a token of remembrance. But this is in no wise obligatory, and,
-in fact, good taste is likely to prevent the bestowal of such a gift
-in most cases. There could hardly be anything less satisfactory to a
-hostess than a string of such souvenirs from her whilom guests.
-
-Where the visit is a very short one, less than two days, it is
-customary to dispense with the bread-and-butter letter.
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTIONS
-
-
-SIMPLICITY SHOULD always characterize good manners, and this truth
-applies especially in the matter of introductions. There should be no
-attempt at fine phrases.
-
-“Mrs. Smith, let me present Mr. Jones.”
-
-It is to be noted that the names of both persons concerned are given.
-They should be spoken with entire distinctness.
-
-In this form, a man is presented to a woman, and this is the rule to be
-generally observed. It is admissible for the introduction to contain an
-expression of the man’s wish for it.
-
-“Mrs. Smith, Mr. Jones desires to be presented to you.”
-
-Slight variations in the phrasing of these forms are permitted. For
-example, after saying, “Mrs. Smith, let me present Mr. Jones,” it is
-proper to add some such phrase as, “He is very anxious to meet you.”
-
-It is always a mark of courtesy to request a lady’s permission in
-advance of the actual introduction. When introductions are to be made
-between a woman, who is a newcomer, and an assembly of guests, the
-newcomer is given the formal distinction of receiving the introductions.
-
-“Miss Brown, let me present Mrs. Robinson, Miss Robinson, Miss Helen
-Robinson, Mr. Jones, Mr. Truesdale.”
-
-Often, the form of introduction is curtailed, especially when the
-company is numerous. In such case, merely the names are spoken, that of
-the stranger having first place.
-
-“Miss Brown—Mrs. Robinson, Miss Robinson, Miss Helen Robinson, Mr.
-Jones, Mr. Truesdale.”
-
-Care must be taken to remember that the person to whom the introduction
-is made has the place of honor. It is on this account that the rule of
-proper procedure requires the presentation of a man to a woman, and
-always the presentation of the inferior to the superior, although the
-distinction is usually purely theoretical. For example, an unmarried
-woman should be presented to a matron. So, the younger person should be
-presented to his or her elders; the ordinary person should be presented
-to the person of distinction. Where men or women are of nearly equal
-age or station, it is safer not to discriminate between them by
-presenting one to the other. It is enough merely to name them.
-
-“Mr. Smith, Mr. Robinson.” Or: “Mrs. Jones, Mrs. Brown.”
-
-It is a part of good tact on the part of a host or hostess in making
-introductions to add a few words of explanation as to some particular
-interest of each, which may be of assistance to them at the beginning
-of their conversation.
-
-In every instance, the greatest care should be taken by the person
-making an introduction to pronounce both names with the utmost
-clearness. Nothing is more annoying than an indistinct mumble that
-leaves the hearers uninformed.
-
-When, for any reason, one fails to understand a stranger’s name at the
-time of introduction, it is permissible to ask it.
-
-“Pardon me, but I did not understand the name.”
-
-There are some variations that should be noted as to the manner of
-acknowledging an introduction. In her own home, a woman should offer
-her hand, while saying, “Mrs. Smith, I am very glad to meet you,” or
-any similar phrase of cordial greeting. But such a cordial phrase is
-not to be used by a woman when a man is presented to her, unless she is
-the hostess. A man, on the contrary, on receiving his introduction to
-a lady, should express his appreciation in a courteous sentence.
-
-“I am very glad to meet you, Miss Robinson.”
-
-The tendency to-day is toward elimination of handshaking by women on
-the occasion of an introduction, except in the case of a hostess. A
-slight bow of the head, a smile and the repetition of the stranger’s
-name are deemed enough. But many women still prefer a less formal
-manner, and give their hand when an introduction is made.
-
-It is the duty of a hostess to stand up when receiving an introduction.
-This applies equally whether the stranger is a man or a woman. But a
-woman other than the hostess, when a member of a group, remains seated
-during any introduction to her unless it is of one her superior in
-age or station, whom she should honor by rising. Otherwise, it is
-preferable for a woman to stand in acknowledging an introduction of
-one of her own sex, though she should remain seated when a man is
-presented to her.
-
-In England, it is usual to omit introductions among those gathered
-in the same house, and guests are expected to conduct themselves as
-acquaintances without this formality. In our country, however, the
-custom has not prevailed to any considerable extent, and it is not
-ordinarily proper for strangers to address each other without having
-been introduced, even though they are fellow-guests.
-
-A hostess should introduce all her guests one to another at ordinary
-dinner-parties, luncheons, or breakfasts. But, in the case of very
-large dinner-parties, she is required only to introduce those who
-are to be partners at table, though it is advisable for her to make
-other introductions to any extent convenient. At the table, however,
-introductions should be carefully avoided. If the women leave the table
-before the men, other introductions may be made among them in the
-drawing-room. The men, too, on returning to the drawing-room may be
-presented to such women as they have not already met.
-
-When a hostess receives at home, she should introduce each new arrival
-to some of the guests who are near by. If she has an assistant in
-receiving, each guest should be presented. On formal occasions, it is
-not her duty to go about among the guests in order to introduce them.
-
-The hostess at a large ball follows a similar course of conduct. But
-in less formal affairs she should be at pains to see that no guest is
-neglected, and that each, as far as possible, has a due share in the
-dancing.
-
-It is especially desirable on all formal occasions, such as large balls
-for example, that a man wishing to present a friend to a woman should
-first privately ask her permission.
-
-Introductions of a very casual sort should never be taken too
-seriously. This applies particularly to those made in a public place,
-such as the street, when a person accompanied by a friend meets an
-acquaintance, who is a stranger to that friend, and there is a pause
-for a brief chat. Usually, there is no occasion for an introduction
-under these circumstances, and if one is made it may be afterward
-ignored. As a matter of fact, only a rather extensive conversation
-between the acquaintances would justify an introduction. Perfunctory
-introductions of those temporarily associated in a game on the tennis
-court, or the like, are to be regarded as equally casual, and not of a
-sort necessitating subsequent recognition.
-
-Introductions may be formally made by letter. In such case, the letter
-should deal exclusively with the introduction. There is no set form,
-but the following will serve as a sufficient guide, to be varied
-according to personal inclination:
-
- _Burlington, Vermont._
- _June 1, 1919._
-
- _My dear Mrs. Smith:_
-
- _It gives me great pleasure to introduce to you my
- friend, Miss Truesdale, who is about to visit relatives
- in your city. I shall deeply appreciate any courtesy
- you may show her._
-
- _With kindest regards to yourself and Mr. Smith, I am,_
-
- _Yours sincerely,
- Mabel Potter_
-
-A similar form will suffice for the introduction of a man, whether to
-another man or to a woman. Discretion should be exercised always in the
-granting of letters of introduction, and it is well to write a separate
-letter giving details concerning the person thus introduced. The letter
-of introduction itself should be placed in an addressed envelope,
-which is left unsealed, to be presented in person by the one to be
-introduced.
-
-Instead of a letter, a common practise uses the visiting-card of the
-person making the introduction. In such case, a line is written across
-the top of the card.
-
- _Introducing Mr. Russell Elliot_
-
-This card also is enclosed within its proper envelope, duly addressed,
-but unsealed, and delivered to the person for whose benefit it is given.
-
-It is common for a man to call at the residence of the person to
-whom the introduction is addressed, and there give the envelope,
-still unsealed, to the servant, together with his own card. In the
-absence of the host or hostess, the caller places his own card inside
-the envelope, which is then sealed, and left. A woman never follows
-this procedure. She places her card in the envelope containing the
-introduction, which is then sealed, and dropped in the post for
-delivery.
-
-One receiving such a letter of introduction, whether man or woman, is
-expected, if the bearer is a woman, to call on her within two days’
-time, and to follow this up with some sort of hospitable entertainment.
-If, for any imperative reason, a call is impossible, a letter should be
-written in explanation.
-
-The like procedure is followed when both parties are men. But when a
-man presents such a letter of introduction to a woman, she does not, of
-course, call upon him, but writes to extend her hospitable offers.
-
-
-
-
-LETTERS
-
-
-THE MOST TROUBLESOME detail in letter-writing is the matter of
-address. It should be noted that there is a distinction between
-_Dear_ and _My dear_. In our country, the more formal style is with
-the pronoun, while the pronoun is omitted in writing to friends.
-A letter to a mere acquaintance begins with the words, _My dear_
-............................. But the form for an intimate is simply
-_Dear_ .............................
-
-The usual address for business purposes and to those with whom no
-social relations are established is _Dear Sir_. The plural is used in
-addressing firms, _Dear Sirs_, or the one word _Gentlemen_, may be
-employed.
-
-In addressing a man with whom social relations are established, the
-surname is used, preceded by _Dear_ or _My dear_, according to the
-degree of intimacy. _My dear Mr. Hudson; Dear Mr. Grant._
-
-A woman who is a stranger may be addressed either as _Madam_ or _Dear
-Madam_, whether she be married or unmarried. The form “_Dear Miss_” is
-to be avoided under all circumstances.
-
-For the woman with whom the writer is formally acquainted, the
-address is: _My dear Mrs._ .............................., if she is
-married, and _My dear Miss_ ............................, if she is
-unmarried. When the person is a friend, she should be addressed: _Dear
-Mrs._ ................, if she is a married woman, and _Dear Miss_
-............................, if she is unmarried.
-
-The full name should be signed to formal letters. The married woman
-should use her own Christian name, not her husband’s with the _Mrs._
-prefixed. But, in business communications to strangers, she may very
-properly give her husband’s name with the prefix _Mrs._, below her
-usual signature, and inclosed in parenthesis.
-
-Similarly, for the sake of clearness, a business letter by an unmarried
-woman may have _Miss_ in parenthesis before the name.
-
-Envelopes should be addressed to the recipient with the full name and
-necessary prefix—-_Mr._, _Mrs._, or _Miss_.
-
-The _Mr._, however, must be omitted if _Esq._ is written after the
-name. The English custom limits the use of Esquire to those who are
-technically gentlemen. For example, _Esq._ is placed after the name
-in addressing a barrister, but it must not be used in writing to a
-tradesman, who is given only the prefix _Mr._
-
-The prefix _Mr._ is used when Junior or Senior is indicated after the
-name by an abbreviation. In such case, _Esq._ must never be written.
-
-It must be noted also that in the case of addresses, as with cards, to
-which attention has already been given, the husband’s title must not
-be given to the wife. _Mrs. Colonel_, _Mrs. Doctor_, _Mrs. Professor_,
-and the like, are barbarisms, which are not tolerated in America or
-England. The Germans, however, use them.
-
-The phrase before the signature to a letter varies according to the
-circumstances, and especially according to the individual taste.
-Thus, in concluding a very formal communication, it is quite proper
-to use the old-fashioned wording, _I am, my dear Madam, your obedient
-servant_. An ordinary convenient form that covers a wide field is,
-_I remain_, _Yours sincerely_, or _Yours faithfully_, or _Yours
-cordially_, writing _I remain_ on one line, and the _Yours_, etc., on
-the line below. Thus:
-
- _I remain,
- Yours sincerely,_
-
-_Yours truly_, or _Very truly yours_, is best reserved for business
-communications. _Yours respectfully_ is applicable for business
-communications, and also for letters addressed to superiors, and for
-use generally as a rather meaningless style.
-
-Men of exalted position are commonly addressed as _Sir_ without any
-qualifying word. And the form in ending is, _I have, Sir, the honor to
-remain Your most obedient servant_—_Your_, etc., forming a separate
-line.
-
-A letter of a social sort would begin, _My dear Mr. President_.
-
-The like form would suffice for the vice-president, except for a letter
-of social character, when he should be addressed by name, _My dear Mr.
-........................_.
-
-A justice of the supreme court, a senator, a member of the house of
-representatives, a cabinet officer, the governor of a state, etc., all
-have the same formal _Sir_ as the address and the corresponding phrase
-in conclusion. But there is variation in the address when the letter
-is of social import. The justice may be addressed _My dear Justice
-................._, or _Dear Mr. Justice ................._.
-
-The senator is addressed _My dear Senator ......................._. The
-representative in congress is addressed _My dear Mr. ................_.
-
-On the envelope, the forms are respectively _Mr. Justice
-..................._, _Senator ......................._, _Hon.
-.............._ (for the congressman).
-
-The social letter to a cabinet officer addresses him by name, _My dear
-................._, and has on the envelope _Hon._ preceding the name
-and his official designation following it.
-
-A governor is usually addressed _My dear Governor
-......................._. And the envelope should have the title
-preceding the name.
-
-In all cases except that of the President, the conclusion of a social
-letter is a simple form such as, _I remain, Yours very sincerely_.
-
-A mayor is addressed either as _Sir_, or _Your Honor_, in formal
-communications, and as _My dear Mayor ................._ in social
-correspondence. The envelope properly gives him a full designation,
-_His Honor the Mayor of ...................._. The name follows,
-written on a lower line.
-
-The form of address is the same for both official and social letters
-in the case of a Roman Catholic archbishop: _Most Reverend and Dear
-Sir_. The conclusion should run: _I have the honor to remain Your
-obedient servant_—_Your_, etc., being written on a lower line. The
-envelope carries _The Most Reverend ......................., Archbishop
-of .................._.
-
-All letters to a cardinal begin _Your Eminence_. The conclusion is the
-same as to an archbishop. The envelope reads _His Eminence Cardinal
-........................_.
-
-For a Roman Catholic bishop all letters begin _Right Reverend and
-Dear Sir_. The conclusion is that used for the preceding prelates.
-On the envelope: _The Right Reverend .................., Bishop of
-..........._.
-
-A Protestant bishop, also, is addressed _Right Reverend and Dear
-Sir_ officially, but a social letter begins _My dear Bishop
-...................._. The conclusion may take the form given for Roman
-Catholic dignitaries, but for social letters it is sufficient to write,
-_I remain Yours sincerely_. The envelope reads: _The Right Reverend
-................, Bishop of ............................_.
-
-Both priests and Protestant clergymen are officially addressed:
-_Reverend and Dear Sir_. But, in a social letter, the beginning
-is _Dear Father .................._, in the case of a priest;
-while the Protestant minister is addressed as _Dear Mr.
-........................_, or _Dear Doctor ...................._, if
-he has such a title. The conclusion for either need be no more than:
-_I remain, Yours very sincerely_. The envelope bears, _The Reverend
-......................_.
-
-The possession of degrees may be indicated by writing the proper
-initials after the name. Where the clergyman has the degree of Doctor,
-this is sometimes used as an abbreviation preceding the name—_The
-Reverend Dr. ........................._.
-
-
-
-
-LUNCHEONS
-
-
-THE ETIQUETTE for a luncheon is essentially the same as that for a
-breakfast, which has already been described. But the luncheon at
-present enjoys a popularity that is distinctive in one respect:
-it serves conveniently very often as a function wholly for the
-entertainment of feminine guests.
-
-The usual hour for a luncheon is from one to two o’clock. The
-invitations, unless the affair is to be quite informal, should be sent
-out ten days before the date set. As in the case of a breakfast, the
-invitation may be sent on a visiting-card, writing below the name:
-
- _Luncheon at one o’clock
- April the fourth_
-
-For an especially formal affair, the invitation should be engraved
-on square white cards of large size, similar to those employed for
-dinner-invitations.
-
- _Mrs. George Vinton Thorne
-
- requests the pleasure of
-
- ........................................
-
- company at luncheon
-
- on ..............................
-
- at .......................... o’clock
-
- Eleven Green Street_
-
-A note written in the first person may convey the invitation, if the
-hostess prefers this manner.
-
-The acceptance or refusal of an invitation may be in the third person,
-following the examples given in the chapter on dinners, or it may be
-written as a note in the first person. In either case, the method used
-in the invitation itself must govern the style of the reply.
-
-At the more formal luncheon, the menu may be elaborate, with oysters,
-bouillon, fish, and other courses following to any desired extent,
-but care must be taken always that the general character of the
-viands served must not be oversubstantial. The meal should be of a
-distinctively lighter sort as compared with dinner.
-
-The women guests usually wear their most effective frocks. Wraps are
-left in the cloak-room provided, or, if this is lacking, in the hall.
-The hats are not removed, but the veil is either pushed up out of the
-way, or removed, according to the wearer’s pleasure. The gloves are
-taken off after arrival at table, and left in the lap, covered by the
-napkin.
-
-A guest should remain for at least half an hour after the completion
-of the meal, and from this minimum of time up to an hour or perhaps a
-little longer, according to the particular circumstances.
-
-The farewell of each guest should, of course, contain some phrase
-expressing appreciation of the hospitality enjoyed.
-
-
-
-
-MOURNING
-
-
-THERE IS ROOM for so much variety in the expression of personal tastes
-as to the matter of mourning that hard-and-fast rules are of doubtful
-value. There is, however, some degree of exactness as to the dress
-suitable for widows, although, even in this connection, individual
-choice and the changes of fashion exert their influence to the display
-of differing modes.
-
-The widow’s mourning may be divided into three periods, termed
-respectively first, second and third.
-
-The first mourning includes the entire costume in black. Usually,
-the material of the dress is of worsted, with a trimming of crêpe.
-The black bonnet is of crêpe, and from it hangs a long veil, also of
-crêpe. Formerly, these veils were of extreme length, reaching even to
-the hem of the gown. The tendency has been, however, toward shortening
-the veil, and the present fashion insists on only a moderate length.
-Another veil, worn over the face, was formerly both long and heavy, but
-the style has been modified, and at present it is of lighter texture
-and of much briefer proportions. The bonnet has white ruching within
-the front edge, and the gown is trimmed with sheer white cuffs, and a
-collar of the same material.
-
-The gloves must be of dull black, and ornaments of dull jet, with a
-black-bordered handkerchief.
-
-This first mourning should be worn for a full year. A change may then
-be made to second mourning, in which the dress may be of crêpe de chine
-or dull silk, with a hat carrying black chiffon, etc., and ornaments of
-dull jet.
-
-The third mourning is assumed after another six months. In this white
-and lilac are permitted to relieve the somberness of the attire. This
-mourning is worn for a period of six months, also, after which colors
-may be resumed.
-
-It should be noted that the white ruche on the bonnet is the one
-distinctive feature of the first mourning that designates the wearer as
-a widow. A woman may wear exactly the same costume, with the exception
-of this white ruche on the bonnet, in the mourning for a parent, a
-child, a brother or a sister.
-
-The period for wearing mourning in such case, and the changes in it,
-may follow the details given above for widows.
-
-Mourning for a parent-in-law is black, with the crêpe omitted. This is
-worn for only a month, and is followed by any preferred combinations of
-black and white, relieved by lilac, for a fortnight or a little longer.
-
-The mourning for close relatives worn by a young unmarried woman does
-not include the bonnet and veil. Instead, a hat trimmed with crêpe is
-worn, and a black net veil over the face is trimmed with crêpe. After
-six months or a year, the crêpe is omitted from hat and veil, and also
-from the gown. Black and white and lilac are then deemed suitable.
-Usually, however, the older unmarried women wear the veil and bonnet of
-the first mourning, as do widows, but with the white ruche omitted.
-
-Mourning is not usually adopted when the death is of relatives-in-law
-or of a grandparent.
-
-Three months is ordinarily sufficient for mourning in the case of an
-uncle or aunt, and it does not include crêpe. Ornaments may be worn,
-though preferably of a very quiet sort.
-
-In general, it is well to bear in mind that mourning should not be
-worn except for the members of one’s immediate family. Of course, the
-particular circumstances in each case must be a determining factor. For
-example, while mourning is not customarily worn for a cousin, yet a
-girl who had made a home with such a relative might appropriately wear
-mourning as for her own mother.
-
-Crêpe is not deemed suitable for girls not yet old enough for a formal
-entrance into society, and children should be spared the lugubrious
-trappings of woe in every case. But a girl about sixteen years of age,
-on the death of a member of the family, appropriately wears a black
-dress, relieved only by touches of white, and a black hat, with dull
-black ribbons. She should leave off jewelry, but she should not carry a
-handkerchief with black border.
-
-The mourning for a widower is often divided into two periods. During
-the first, black is worn throughout in the costume, with white linen.
-The hat-band is of crêpe. The present tendency is to make this band
-much narrower than it was of yore. It is left off altogether after
-a year, or perhaps eight months, as the second mourning begins. The
-second mourning permits the use of gray and white in the costume. A
-man’s mourning for a child, parent, brother or sister may continue for
-a full year, or it may be put off after six months according to his
-choice. The mourning includes a hat-band of crêpe. If a man wishes to
-wear mourning for a more distant relative, he may use the black and
-white and gray of the widower’s second period, but men ordinarily do
-not assume mourning for any except closest relations.
-
-A mourning band on the sleeve is sometimes worn by men, but it is
-impossible to describe its significance from the standpoint of
-propriety, since it is worn equally for those most closely related and
-for those most distantly, without distinction, and since it is a custom
-derived originally from England, where it serves as a cheap method of
-providing mourning liveries for servants.
-
-After the loss of a close relation, a woman pays no calls for six
-months. After that time, she may visit her intimates, but not on their
-at-home days. She may also attend concerts and theater matinées and
-the like, in a very quiet way. After a year, she may appear at small
-dinners, and at the theater in the evening, and the like. But box
-parties and all the elaborate functions, such for example as balls,
-must not be resumed until the period of mourning has expired.
-
-Elderly women are likely to prefer a mourning garb for the remainder
-of their lifetime, after the death of a husband. In such cases, after
-perhaps two years, the widow’s bonnet and veil are given up, and nun’s
-veiling is substituted. While the gown remains black, the crêpe is
-omitted from it, and the mourning handkerchief is no longer carried.
-Jewelry is worn, but not of an ostentatious kind.
-
-
-
-
-MUSICALES
-
-
-THE MUSICALE is merely a formal at home where music is made a special
-feature of the entertainment. Throughout, the procedure is that of an
-at home, and the details are to be found in full in the chapter under
-that heading. The only formal difference is in the wording of the
-invitation, which makes mention of music as the feature.
-
-The invitations are engraved, and may take either of the two usual
-forms, according to the choice of the hostess.
-
- _Mrs. George H. Baxter
-
- requests the pleasure of
-
- .......................................
-
- company
-
- at a musicale
-
- on Friday evening, May first
-
- at half-past nine o’clock
-
- Twenty-seven Maple Street_
-
-Or the at-home form may be used as follows:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. George H. Baxter
-
- At Home
-
- Friday evening, May first
-
- at half-past nine o’clock
-
- Twenty-seven Maple Street
-
- Music_
-
-Such an affair in the evening is often of the most elaborate character,
-and is essentially a concert. But a musicale may be given with equal
-propriety in the afternoon. The form for engraved invitations is
-precisely the same, with the single exception of the hours named, for
-the afternoon entertainment specifies the time as _from four until
-seven o’clock_.
-
-For a less formal occasion, a hostess may extend her invitations by
-sending a visiting-card, on which she writes, below her name, _Friday,
-May first, four to seven o’clock_, and underneath this the single word
-_Music_. Or in place of the word _Music_, she may write _To hear_
-.............. adding the name of a particular performer.
-
-The obligations of the guests follow in all respects those to which
-attention has been already given under the title “At Homes.” Thus, in
-the matter of costumes, the usage resembles that explained concerning
-correct garb for both afternoon and evening receptions in the earlier
-chapter.
-
-It might be well to emphasize the fact that no direct reply is required
-for an invitation announcing that the hostess will be at home on a
-certain date. But the case is quite otherwise when that form of
-invitation is employed which requests the pleasure of the guest’s
-company. This demands a prompt answer, whether of acceptance or of
-refusal, which should be couched in the third person. Thus:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Henry Sage Beckett
-
- accept with pleasure
-
- Mrs. Baxter’s kind invitation
-
- for May first
-
- Nineteen Wentworth Square
-
- April twenty-first, 1919_
-
-Or, in the event of inability to accept, or disinclination, the answer
-should run as follows:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Henry Sage Beckett
-
- regret that a previous engagement
-
- prevents their acceptance
-
- of Mrs. Baxter’s kind invitation
-
- for May first
-
- Nineteen Wentworth Square
-
- April twenty-first, 1919_
-
-
-
-
-OPERA
-
-
-A SUFFICIENT FORM for an invitation to an opera party will be found in
-the chapter on the theater, which needs only a verbal change to specify
-the particular performance at the opera instead of at the playhouse.
-In general, also, the procedure suited to attendance at the theater
-is to be followed in connection with the opera. But there are certain
-differences that should be regarded.
-
-The dress for the opera is more formal than for the theater, generally
-speaking. The man, for example, usually keeps his white gloves on. The
-woman, for her part, wears a gown that is sleeveless and decolleté, and
-displays jewels according to her means or taste. An aigrette takes the
-place of the hat that may be worn to the theater. Nevertheless, it is
-quite permissible for a woman occupying a stall in the orchestra at the
-opera to wear a costume of the sort commonly seen at the theater.
-
-Visiting at the opera is a distinctive feature, facilitated as it is
-by the number of boxes, so greatly in excess of those with which the
-theater is supplied. For it is with the boxes that this visiting is
-chiefly concerned, though it reaches to some extent to the orchestra
-stalls.
-
-Between acts is the proper time for such calls, which are usually, but
-not exclusively, paid by men. A gentleman may call on a lady of his
-acquaintance in a box, though she is a guest of a host or hostess who
-is not known to him. In such case, the woman to whom he pays the visit
-must introduce him to her entertainer. But an introduction of the sort
-is merely formal, and entails no necessity of subsequent recognition by
-either party.
-
-No more than five minutes, or even less, should be given to
-such calls, but some discretion is permitted by the particular
-circumstances. Thus, where there are many coming and going, the time
-should be shorter than when there are few other visitors, or none. The
-call should never extend beyond the end of the intermission.
-
-Since an opera box is equipped with a vestibule of its own, the
-women do not leave their wraps in the cloak-room, but wait until
-their arrival at the box, when they are taken off in the vestibule.
-Afterward, on entering the box, the chaperon and other older women
-precede the younger, and are offered the choice of seats. But they
-usually prefer the less conspicuous positions, and the chairs at
-the rail are given to the débutantes, or younger matrons. The exact
-arrangement is always a matter for the display of tact on the part of
-host or hostess.
-
-Visiting among the stalls is necessarily more limited, but is practised
-to any extent rendered convenient by location.
-
-In such visiting, the ordinary amenities of social intercourse are to
-be observed. The men, for example, must stand when a lady enters the
-box in which they are seated, and they should remain standing until her
-departure, or until she has taken a chair.
-
-
-
-
-PRIVATE THEATRICALS
-
-
-PRIVATE THEATRICALS are usually the feature of an evening function.
-
-The form of invitation is exactly the same as for a musicale, with the
-one exception in substituting _Theatricals at ten o’clock_. The phrase
-appears thus in the at-home form of announcement. When the invitation
-requests the pleasure of the guest’s company, _At Private Theatricals_
-is preferred as the descriptive statement.
-
-On occasions when the theatricals are to be followed by a dance, the
-word _Dancing_ is added at the bottom of the card.
-
-The letters _R.s.v.p._ are commonly employed in connection with such
-invitations, and their appearance on the card emphasizes the necessity
-of a written reply.
-
-
-
-
-RECEPTIONS
-
-
-ALL DETAILS of the etiquette that has to do with receptions, whether
-they are held in the afternoon or in the evening, are carefully
-described in the chapter treating various forms of the at home.
-
-
-
-
-SMOKING
-
-
-A GUEST in the home of another must not smoke unless invited to do so
-by host or hostess.
-
-A man in the presence of a lady must not smoke unless he asks for, and
-receives, permission to do so.
-
-A man should not smoke when walking with a woman in public.
-
-A man must not converse while holding cigar, pipe, or cigarette in his
-mouth.
-
-
-
-
-STAIRS
-
-
-IN A FORMER generation, women hid their ankles, and gave brief glimpses
-of them only by accident or naughty design. It was then required of a
-gentleman that he should precede a lady in ascending stairs. To-day,
-fashion has cleared away all mystery concerning feminine ankles, and a
-gentleman is permitted to follow the lady as she mounts the stairs.
-
-
-
-
-STREET ETIQUETTE
-
-
-WHEN A MAN and woman walk together in the street, the man’s proper
-position is usually on the side toward the curb, and he maintains this
-place also when walking with two women. He should never station himself
-between them, unless under the informal circumstances of a country
-road, or the like.
-
-In the day time, a man does not offer a woman his arm when they walk
-together, though of course he should give her the support of his hand
-under her elbow when such assistance is obviously required, as in
-mounting the steps of a car. But in the evening a man properly offers
-his arm to a woman when they are to walk together, and she lays her
-hand on his forearm. They should never hook arms.
-
-When a man and woman who are acquainted with each other meet in the
-street, it is the woman’s place to extend recognition by a nod and
-smile, which latter varies from coldness to warmth according to
-her will. On receiving such recognition, for which in any formal
-acquaintance he must wait, the man raises his hat, and at the same time
-bows.
-
-When a man is walking with a woman, he must salute in the same fashion
-any others that pass who recognize either himself or his companion,
-except that where the person is not an acquaintance of his own, he
-merely lifts his hat without bowing.
-
-When a man encounters a woman on the street, and wishes to talk with
-her, he should not detain her, but with her permission should turn and
-walk beside her. The woman, however, is privileged thus to retain the
-man in conversation, but she should withdraw to one side, out of the
-way of passers-by.
-
-In escorting a woman in a car, the man should assist her to enter, and
-then follow. But in leaving, he precedes her and descends first, then
-turning to help her down.
-
-Good sense must determine the precise conduct for propriety in various
-circumstances. Ordinarily, where a couple cannot well walk side by
-side, the man follows behind the woman. But where the way is difficult
-for any reason, he goes in advance—as, for example, when it becomes
-necessary to force the way through a crowd.
-
-Some men make a point of standing uncovered throughout the length of
-any conversation with a woman in the street. This mode is not to be
-encouraged, especially in the inclement northern winter. Merely raising
-the hat at meeting and again at parting is quite sufficient.
-
-
-
-
-TABLE MANNERS
-
-
-DEPORTMENT AT TABLE is the most important single item in the total of
-good manners. Yet, the requirements are very simple—so simple indeed
-that there is little excuse for those who fail in them.
-
-It should hardly be necessary to say that the position must be one of
-well-balanced erectness. A man’s hands should be kept in his lap when
-not busy. So of a woman’s—formerly. Of recent years, a new custom has
-crept in, and it is common to see a woman’s forearm or elbow resting at
-ease on the table.
-
-The napkin is only partly unfolded, and laid across the lap. In the
-case of a woman, it covers her gloves, which she has taken off on
-seating herself. At the end of the meal, the crumpled napkin is laid
-beside the plate. But, when making an extended stay with friends, the
-napkin is folded if the host and hostess fold theirs in preparation for
-use at another meal.
-
-The knife is employed only for cutting purposes, being then held in the
-right hand. It is afterward put down, while the fork is transferred
-to the right hand for passing food to the mouth. When not in use both
-knife and fork are left on the plate. They should not be held in the
-hands, or laid down on the table. They are to remain on the plate also
-if it is sent for another helping. When eating is ended, knife and fork
-are laid together on the plate—parallel, points to the center, and the
-fork tines down.
-
-The fork should be used throughout with the tines downward. It is only
-used spoon-fashion for small vegetables such as peas. The fork rather
-than a spoon should be used for eating ices, melons, and the like. It
-is used to fold lettuce and other salad leaves, which must not be cut
-with a knife.
-
-The knife is used only for cutting, and is afterward laid down on the
-plate.
-
-Beverages in glasses or cups are tested by sipping from a spoon, which
-is then laid down. Afterward one drinks directly from the container.
-The spoon must never be allowed to stand in a cup or glass. For taking
-soup, the spoon is pushed forward, not drawn toward one. The soup plate
-is never tipped. The liquid must be taken into the mouth from the side
-of the spoon never from the end.
-
-Boiled eggs are properly eaten with a spoon, of course, as are jellies,
-custards and the like, grape-fruit and various fruits served with
-cream, and cereals.
-
-A finger-bowl is properly used on finishing a fruit course. A slight
-rinsing of the finger-tips suffices, after which they are wiped on the
-napkin.
-
-Butter is not served at formal dinners.
-
-At all other meals a special plate is laid for bread and butter, and
-a small knife of silver for spreading the butter. The bread is broken
-with the fingers, a mouthful at a time and separately buttered. Cake is
-eaten either in the fingers or with a fork.
-
-Cheese is cut into small pieces. Each piece is placed on a mouthful of
-bread or cracker, and then eaten from the fingers.
-
-Apples, pears, etc., are quartered, peeled, cut in mouthfuls, and
-then eaten from the fingers. Smaller fruits with pits are eaten from
-the fingers. Each pit is taken from the mouth in the closed hand and
-deposited on the plate.
-
-Asparagus is eaten with a fork. That part of the stalk not easily cut
-by the fork is left. But burr artichokes are eaten from the fingers a
-leaf at a time, after it has been dipped in the sauce. Only the heart
-demands the use of a fork.
-
-Celery, olives and radishes are eaten from the fingers. So, also, are
-crystallized fruits, almonds and other nuts.
-
-When leaving the table at the conclusion of a meal elsewhere than in
-one’s own house, the chair is left without being pushed back close to
-the table.
-
-
-
-
-TEAS
-
-
-IN THE COUNTRY, where the dinner is in the middle of the day, the
-evening meal is called either supper or tea, and an invitation to tea
-ordinarily means an invitation to the evening meal. In England, where
-afternoon tea-serving is universal among all classes, the evening meal
-is frequently designated high tea.
-
-The proprieties concerning afternoon tea are explained in the chapter
-entitled, “At Homes.”
-
-
-
-
-THEATER-PARTIES
-
-
-WHEN A THEATER-PARTY is to be given, it is not customary to use the
-engraved form of invitations, but notes written in the first person
-suffice.
-
- _97 Hamilton Street,
- May 1, 1919_
-
- _My dear Miss Hammer:_
-
- _Will you give me the pleasure of dining with me on
- Wednesday evening of next week, at seven o’clock, and
- of afterward witnessing the new play at the Brooke
- Theater?_
-
- _In the hope that you are free that evening and kindly
- disposed toward my invitation, I remain,_
-
- _Yours sincerely,
- Mary Holmes_
-
-To such an invitation, the guest should return an immediate reply,
-either of acceptance or rejection, written in the first person, after
-the manner of the other missive.
-
-It is within the discretion of the host or hostess to secure orchestra
-seats, or a box. Care should be taken, in the case of a box, not to
-have a sufficient number of guests to cause crowding. The invitations
-should be sent out about a week before the evening of the party, but a
-longer or shorter notice is permissible. A bachelor may find it more
-convenient to give his invitations in person, orally, and such laxity
-is allowable on his part.
-
-The giver of the entertainment may use his or her discretion in having
-attendance on the play preceded by an early dinner-party, which may
-include all or only a part of his guests; or having it followed by
-a supper-party. Or the theater alone may be deemed a sufficient
-entertainment.
-
-Very often, a host orders an omnibus to collect his guests for a
-theater-party and to carry them to the theater, and back home after
-the performance. If this is done, the invitation should specify the
-fact, and notify the guest of the exact time of the omnibus’s arrival.
-
-When a man invites an unmarried woman to be his companion at the
-theater, he is expected also to invite another woman, either a relation
-or friend, according to circumstances, who shall act as chaperon.
-But this rule is not too strictly enforced where a friendship exists
-between a man and a spinster of mature age.
-
-It is the duty of the man to call in person for his guests, and to
-provide them with fitting transportation to and from the theater. On
-their arrival at the theater, if the women leave their wraps in the
-cloak-room, he also should check his hat and coat. He allows the ladies
-to precede him, and inside the theater secures programs for them, and
-then gives his checks to the usher. The usher now leads the way, with
-the ladies following and the host bringing up the rear. If he has
-retained his coat and hat, he places his hat under the seat and lays
-the folded coat over the back of the chair or holds it across his
-knees. He is careful always to retain the checks during the evening
-since lack of them might prove embarrassing if any error has been made
-in the seating arrangements, as sometimes happens.
-
-A man thus escorting ladies to the theater properly remains with them
-throughout the performance. The only justifiable excuse for leaving
-them for a few minutes is when he occupies an aisle seat, and then only
-when during an intermission a friend comes to pay his respects, who can
-take his place until the rising of the curtain.
-
-The man wears evening dress for the theater. He should by no means
-appear in a tailless coat when acting as an escort for ladies, or when
-a guest in a party that includes ladies. He is permitted, however, to
-remove his gloves on arrival at the theater. The silk hat is often
-inconvenient for theater purposes, and for that reason the crush hat
-has been preferred. But this folding form of headgear has lost its
-vogue to a great extent, and there is a growing tendency toward the use
-of a black soft hat for such evening wear.
-
-The more usual form of woman’s dress is not the decolleté of the
-ball-gown, but a less extreme style, with sleeves. It is, of course, of
-such elegance as to suit the occasion. But the low-neck and sleeveless
-gown is frequently to be seen, more especially in the boxes.
-
-With the less formal costume, a hat is worn. This and the veil may be
-removed in the cloak-room, or, if the wrap is retained, it may be kept
-on until the seat is reached. The outer garment is then folded and laid
-over the back of the chair. After having seated herself, the woman then
-unpins her veil and removes it, together with the hat, and these are
-afterward held in the lap.
-
-If the arrival at the theater is a little late, and the wraps are not
-left in the cloak-room, it is the part of good taste to remove them
-before passing down the aisle to the seats. Otherwise, their removal
-becomes an unpleasant interruption to those seated near by.
-
-This same matter of consideration for the rights of others is the
-reason why it is necessary that the hats should be removed, since
-it would shut off the view of the stage from those seated behind.
-It should be borne in mind always, also, that this consideration
-for others should extend to the matter of conversation during the
-performance, which must be rigidly suppressed. Care ought to be taken
-in every respect lest there be an impolite intrusion on the rights of
-others.
-
-If there is supper in a restaurant after the play, the wraps should
-be left in the cloak-room as a rule, but a woman may retain one of a
-sort that is not cumbersome, according to her pleasure. The hat is not
-removed for the meal. The veil may either be pushed up or taken off
-according to the individual preference. The gloves are removed after
-the party is seated at table, and kept in the lap under the napkin
-until the conclusion of the meal. They are put on again before leaving
-the table.
-
-
-
-
-WEDDINGS
-
-
-THE WEDDING-INVITATIONS are sent out fully two weeks before the
-marriage, at least, and they may be sent earlier, up to a limit of two
-months.
-
-The invitation is engraved on white paper, of which there is a double
-sheet. The invitation itself must occupy only the first page. An
-average size is between seven and eight inches in length and about an
-inch less in width. Script is usually preferred. The invitation is
-folded once and placed in an unsealed envelope with the guest’s name
-written on it. Another envelope is used to contain this, on which are
-written both the name and address, and it is sealed for delivery by
-post or messenger.
-
-It should be borne in mind that, while husband and wife are joined in
-a single invitation, other members of the family must be separately
-invited, except that more than one daughter may be included under the
-designation _The Misses ...................._, and similarly more than
-one son, _The Messrs. ...................._. Otherwise, a daughter
-receives an individual invitation, as does also a son.
-
-In cities, on the occasion of church weddings where strangers often
-intrude, it is common to inclose with the invitation a small card
-inscribed:
-
- _Please present this card at
-
- the Church of the Incarnation
-
- on Tuesday, June the first_
-
-A standard form for the wording of the invitation is as follows:
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Hudson
-
- request the honor of your presence
-
- at the marriage of their daughter
-
- Harriet
-
- to
-
- Mr. James Meade Trowbridge
-
- on Tuesday afternoon, June the first
-
- at half-past three o’clock
-
- The Church of the Incarnation
-
- Baltimore_
-
-The invitations are issued in the names of the bride’s parents, or,
-lacking them, in the name of her nearest relative, unless this should
-be an unmarried sister. When the invitations are issued by a brother,
-his name only may be used, even though he is married. But where the
-relation is a married woman, the name of the husband also appears on
-the invitations. Such invitations issued by some one other than the
-parents follow the form given above exactly, save that the full name of
-the bride must be given instead of her Christian name alone, and, of
-course, the proper relationship must be indicated by a word substituted
-for _daughter_.
-
-It is usual, when the bride is a step-daughter, to specify the
-relationship in the invitation. Thus, in the form given above, if
-Harriet were the daughter of Mrs. Hudson by a previous marriage, the
-phrase would run, _at the marriage of Mrs. Hudson’s daughter, Harriet
-Blake Rothwell_. If she were the daughter of Mr. Hudson, the phrase
-would be, _at the marriage of Mr. Hudson’s daughter, Harriet_.
-
-The invitations to either a wedding-breakfast or reception is inclosed
-with the invitation to the ceremony, but the engraved card is of the
-ordinary size.
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Hudson
-
- request the pleasure of
-
- ..........................
-
- company
-
- on Tuesday, June first
-
- at half-past twelve o’clock
-
- Thirty-six Fremont Avenue_
-
-But often the name is omitted, and the invitation may read simply:
-
- _Reception
-
- From four o’clock
-
- Thirty-six Fremont Avenue_
-
-The initials _R.s.v.p._ may be used in the lower left-hand corner of
-either form.
-
-The only essential difference in the form of the invitation to
-a home-wedding is that instead of asking for the _honor of your
-presence_, the request is for the _pleasure of your company_. Of
-course, the home-address must be given at the end, instead of the name
-of the church. When the ceremony is to be performed in the presence of
-only a limited number of friends, those who are to witness it receive
-with their invitation a small engraved card, inscribed _Ceremony at
-three o’clock_, or whatever the hour may be.
-
-Announcement-cards, following the celebration of a quiet wedding, are
-sent out on the day of the marriage. The paper used is the same as that
-for the invitations.
-
- _Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Hudson
-
- have the honor of announcing
-
- the marriage of their daughter
-
- Harriet
-
- to
-
- Mr. James Meade Trowbridge
-
- on Tuesday, June the first
-
- at the Church of The Incarnation_
-
-A combination-card of bride and groom, with their address, and perhaps
-her at-home day, may be inclosed with the announcement.
-
-If, for any reason, the announcement-cards are not issued by the
-bride’s relatives, they may be sent out by the engaged pair, using the
-bride’s maiden name
-
- _Mr. George Hart Bagot
-
- and
-
- Miss Mary Elizabeth Peck
-
- have the honor of announcing their marriage
-
- on Monday, June the seventh
-
- at the Church of The Incarnation
-
- Albany_
-
-Unless the invitation to a wedding carries the letters _R.s.v.p._,
-it does not require any reply, but an invitation to the reception or
-breakfast should be acknowledged by two visiting-cards, sent to the
-bride’s parents, when attendance is not possible or convenient. An
-acceptance or declination is written in the third person, and follows
-the corresponding form in reference to a dinner-invitation, with the
-necessary verbal change, substituting, _wedding-reception of their
-daughter_, for _dinner_.
-
-No acknowledgment is required for announcement-cards; but it is well to
-call on, or leave cards for, the bride’s parents.
-
-It is impossible to state exactly all the details in connection with
-the marriage-ceremony, since the variations in personal taste and
-circumstances are such that the wedding may be fittingly celebrated in
-almost regal state, with a dozen bridesmaids and everything else with
-like profusion, or the rite may be carried out with a plainness and
-simplicity that yet perhaps yields a significance more touching than
-that of the gorgeous spectacle. Each circle in every community has its
-own accepted traditions, and it is always better that these should
-be followed. The vagaries of fashion may often tempt its votaries to
-extravagances in following the fads and fancies of the moment. But
-there should be no frivolous tampering with the marriage rite, which is
-proclaimed as a sacrament by the church, and should be always esteemed
-as the most sacred act in the lives of those who thus make their
-covenants together.
-
-It need only be added that for an evening wedding the bridegroom wears
-the regulation evening clothes, while for an hour earlier in the day
-his costume includes a frock-coat of black or dark blue, a black or
-white waistcoat, and striped trousers of a lighter shade than the coat.
-The scarf should be a white ascot, caught with a pearl pin.
-
-He wears patent-leather shoes and gray suède gloves. A silk hat forms
-the headgear to accompany either the evening dress or the other.
-
-A maiden bride should wear white and a veil of tulle with orange
-blossoms. The gown may be decolleté and sleeveless for an evening
-wedding. A woman who has been married before may wear any color
-pleasing to her, but not white, and she must not veil herself, nor
-display the orange blossoms. A train properly distinguishes the
-wedding-gown.
-
-On receipt of an invitation to a wedding, any gift should be sent to
-the bride without delay. There is no obligation on the part of a merely
-formal acquaintance to send a gift when invited to a church wedding,
-but it is permissible. Such an obligation exists for one invited to the
-breakfast or reception, as well as one to be among a limited number
-present at the actual marriage on the occasion of a home wedding.
-Sometimes, those invited to a church wedding compromise by sending
-flowers.
-
-The distinction between the maiden and the matron is again emphasized
-in the matter of the bouquet carried by the bride, which for the maiden
-should be of white flowers, such as lilies of the valley, while for the
-woman it must be at least touched with color—perhaps of orchids.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: “MADE EASY” SERIES]
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-
-THERE is no royal road to learning.
-
-IT is an old saying, and a true one, in a sense: for prince and peasant
-must alike travel the path.
-
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Etiquette Made Easy, by Edward Summers Squier
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-Title: Etiquette Made Easy
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-Author: Edward Summers Squier
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-
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-
-
-<h1 class="faux">ETIQUETTE MADE EASY</h1>
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 541px;">
-<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="541" height="800" alt="cover" />
-</div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
-
-
-<div class="maintitle">ETIQUETTE MADE EASY</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a><br /><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="center">Made Easy Series</div>
-<div class="center">—————————————————</div>
-<div class="maintitle">ETIQUETTE<br />
-MADE EASY</div>
-
-<div class="center"><br /><br /><br /><br />
-BY<br />
-<span class="author">EDWARD SUMMERS SQUIER, M. A.</span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
-</div>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 202px;">
-<img src="images/i_151.jpg" width="202" height="187" alt="Emblem: Made Easy Series" />
-</div>
-
-
-<div class="center"><br /><br /><br />
-<small>NEW YORK</small><br />
-EDWARD J. CLODE<br />
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="copyright">
-COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY<br />
-EDWARD J. CLODE<br />
-————<br />
-<i>All rights reserved</i><br />
-————<br />
-<i>Entered at Stationers’ Hall</i><br /><br /><br /><br />
-———————————————<br />
-<small>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</small><br />
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>PREFACE</h2>
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="130" height="139" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE POLITEST MAN of
-whom history has record
-was a Norwegian. A stranger
-in a town of Norway
-asked a passing native the
-way to a certain address. The native raised
-his hat, bowed, and said:</p>
-
-<p>“Sir, I am very sorry, but I do not
-know.”</p>
-
-<p>The stranger passed on. A few minutes
-later, he heard the sound of some one running
-behind him. He faced about, and
-recognized the native, who came, halted,
-and after a few deep breaths, said, while
-bowing with uplifted hat:</p>
-
-<p>“Sir, after leaving you, I met my brother-in-law,
-and I regret to tell you, Sir, that he
-also does not know.”</p>
-
-<p>In spite of this story with its Norwegian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>
-hero, first place is usually given to the
-French in matters of politeness. There is
-an old story that illustrates with remarkable
-precision the national traits of French,
-English and German. This has to do with
-the manner of lighting a cigar. The
-Frenchman strikes a match, offers the flame
-to his companions, then makes a light for
-himself. The Englishman lights his own
-cigar first, and then offers the match to
-his companions. The German lights his
-own cigar, then throws the match away.
-The brief recital contains something deeper
-than mere humor in its analysis of national
-characteristics. The consideration of the
-Frenchman for others is indeed the essential
-basis for all true courtesy. Genuine
-politeness has its root always in a very
-real regard for the feelings of others.</p>
-
-<p>The ancient proverb declares that cleanliness
-is next to godliness. In fact, so far
-as concerns casual associations, cleanliness
-is the more important. We have ordinarily
-nothing to do with the morals of those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>
-whom we encounter for a few fugitive
-moments, but the most fleeting companionship
-with a dirty person is offensive, while a
-perfect cleanliness is always pleasing in its
-effect.</p>
-
-<p>As a matter of fundamental courtesy
-toward others, we are required to keep
-ourselves clean. Such cleanliness may be
-excellent as a hygienic measure, but one
-most eminent physician has declared that
-bathing is not essential to health, and he
-offers in proof of his assertion the great
-number of old persons there are in the
-world.</p>
-
-<p>But those aged unwashed would be
-repulsive in refined society. Their condition
-would distress others. Quite involuntarily,
-they would thus be guilty of
-discourtesy.</p>
-
-<p>The principle of consideration for others
-that exalts cleanliness as a virtue is the
-principle that actually fashions all the
-essential forms of politeness. At a decent
-dinner-table, one must not smack his lips,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>
-or make loud noises in taking soup from
-the spoon, for the simple reason that such
-behavior will annoy others. Often, a sympathetic
-person, absolutely untaught in the
-niceties of etiquette, will do the right thing
-by a natural instinct of kindliness, where
-another individual of polite breeding will
-do the wrong from sheer lack of that fellow-feeling
-which gives understanding.</p>
-
-<p>Nevertheless, while the noblest courtesy
-must spring always from the heart,
-common convenience has settled on definite
-methods of deportment for various
-occasions. Ignorance of these details as
-to proper conduct is not a matter to be
-contemned, but one to be regretted, because
-a person thus ignorant, no matter
-how kindly his intention, must often disturb
-others by failure to do the expected
-thing in the expected way. In other words,
-he lacks knowledge of what are termed the
-proprieties. It is with the intention of
-offering assistance to those finding themselves
-in doubt as to the niceties of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>
-deportment that this book has been prepared.</p>
-
-<p>It is arranged with the contents in alphabetical
-order, so that the topics are self-indexed.</p>
-
-<p>In addition to the bulk of information
-set forth in the following pages, there needs
-only one direction of importance.</p>
-
-<p>This is based on the ancient saying:
-“When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”
-Practically every community has its local
-customs, and these are always to be respected.
-There is nothing more snobbish
-than criticism by a stranger of social forms
-that are well established. It is always his
-duty to respect them and to observe them.
-Otherwise, he displays that lack of consideration
-for others which is the root of
-all rudeness. One sympathetically disposed
-toward his fellows who avails himself
-of the information in this book may
-rest confident in the assurance that he is
-indeed the possessor of good manners.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a><br /><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
-<tr>
-<td align="left">&nbsp;</td>
-<td align="left"><small>PAGE</small></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">At Homes</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Bachelor Hosts</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Balls</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Breakfasts</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Calls</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Cards</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Dinners</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Garden-Parties</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">House-Parties</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Introductions</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Letters</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Luncheons</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Mourning</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Musicales</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Opera</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Private Theatricals</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Receptions</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Smoking</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Stairs</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Street Etiquette</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Table Manners</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Teas</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Theater-Parties</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td>
-</tr>
-
-<tr>
-<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Weddings</span></td>
-<td align="right"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a><br /><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>Etiquette Made Easy</h2>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-<h2>AT HOMES</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t.jpg" width="130" height="139" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE AFTERNOON TEA is
-perhaps the most popular of
-social functions, and deservedly
-so, since it is essentially
-of the utmost simplicity, yet
-may be expanded into a most elaborate
-social affair. In the original simple form,
-the hostess merely welcomes her guests as
-they come to her on her regular day at
-home, in the drawing-room, and there
-offers them a cup of tea served by herself
-and light refreshments of sandwiches and
-cakes and the like.</p>
-
-<p>The next development in the tea is in
-the nature of a small afternoon reception,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>
-or at home. For this occasion, the hostess
-issues invitations a week in advance. A
-visiting-card serves the purpose, with a
-line written below the name:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Wednesday, June fourth<br />
-from four until seven o’clock</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>If there is to be a guest of honor, an additional
-line may indicate the fact:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>To meet</i>........................<br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The procedure for the hostess at a function
-of this sort is more formal. It is usual
-to have the refreshments in the dining-room,
-though they should not be of an
-elaborate character. The teapot is placed
-at one end of the table, and presided over
-by some friend, since the obligations of
-the hostess prevent her rendering this hospitable
-service in person.</p>
-
-<p>The third stage of the afternoon tea has
-come to take the place of the old-time reception,
-though it bears merely the designation
-“At Home.”</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The requisite invitations must be sent
-out any time from a week to a fortnight
-before the date set. For these, an engraved
-form is essential. They are printed
-on heavy white bristol board, of the quality
-described for dinner-invitations, and inclosed
-in a single envelope. They may be
-issued in the name of the hostess alone,
-or in the names of a hostess and her daughter
-or daughters, or in the names of husband
-and wife—though this last is a very
-modern innovation. The following will
-serve as a model:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. James French Putnam<br />
-<br />
-At Home<br />
-<br />
-April the seventh<br />
-<br />
-From four until seven o’clock<br />
-<br />
-208 Flagg Avenue</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>If the husband joins with the wife in
-issuing the invitations, the only change is
-in the first line:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. James French Putnam</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Where a daughter is to receive with her
-mother, the girl’s name appears just below
-that of the matron:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. James French Putnam</i><br />
-<i>Miss Putnam</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Where there are two or more daughters
-thus associated with the mother, they are
-included under one title. Thus:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. James French Putnam</i><br />
-<br />
-<i>The Misses Putnam</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>When a younger sister is to appear at
-her début, her name in full is given a
-line after those of her mother and elder
-sister:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. James French Putnam</i><br />
-<i>Miss Putnam</i><br />
-<i>Miss Helen Louise Putnam</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>In the event of a guest of honor, the
-invitation may emphasize the presence
-of this personage by a special engraved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>
-announcement at the head of the invitation:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>To meet</i><br />
-<br />
-......................................<br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The remainder of the invitation will
-follow any of the forms indicated above.</p>
-
-<p>Or the announcement may appear in one
-engraved line at the foot of the invitation:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>To meet</i>................................<br />
-</p>
-
-<p>At a reception of this character, the hostess
-is obliged to remain on duty near the
-door of the drawing-room throughout the
-hours set. But a husband or daughter
-receiving with her, though expected to join
-her in receiving the guests at the outset
-and for a considerable time afterward, is
-not so rigidly held to the one place, but
-after a time may properly move about
-among the guests with hospitable intent.</p>
-
-<p>But a débutante must remain at the
-post of duty with her mother throughout
-the whole time.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In recent years, there has developed a
-pleasant custom by which the débutante
-invites a number of her young friends to
-join her in receiving the other guests. It
-is usual to entertain these at dinner after
-the reception.</p>
-
-<p>The refreshments for an occasion of this
-sort are served in the dining-room with servants
-in attendance. Tea is poured at one
-end of the table, and perhaps chocolate at
-the other, while a bowl of punch is commonly
-at hand. The refreshments are of
-the buffet variety, but they may be as
-rich and varied as the hostess chooses. At
-such functions in the city, it is usual to
-lay a strip of carpet from the house door
-to the curb, and an awning raised over this
-offers protection to the guests in inclement
-weather. Where the list of guests is long,
-a liveried servant at the curb not only
-opens the doors of the motors, but also
-issues checks by which the cars may
-be summoned for the departure of the
-guests.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>A butler opens the house door as the
-guest approaches, and gives directions as
-to the dressing-rooms. Another liveried
-servant at the door of the drawing-room
-announces each guest by name to the
-hostess.</p>
-
-<p>At such affairs, both hostess and women
-guests wear what is properly termed a reception-gown—that
-is to say, one of elegance
-and richness, with a train if the
-prevailing mode permits, but not decolleté
-or sleeveless. Hats of a character harmonious
-with the gown are worn throughout
-the function, as are gloves.</p>
-
-<p>The men wear black frock coats and
-gray striped trousers, with either a black
-waistcoat or a fancy one according to
-choice. While he leaves his coat and hat
-in the dressing-room at such formal affairs,
-a man retains his gloves, either keeping
-the left glove on the hand, and carrying
-the other, or carrying both. The right
-hand must be bare.</p>
-
-<p>Each woman guest leaves on a tray<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
-provided for that purpose in the hall a
-card for her hostess and one for each of
-any other women receiving. She may also
-leave similarly the cards of any other
-woman member of her family who has
-been invited, but does not attend.</p>
-
-<p>The man leaves a card for his host if
-there is one, in addition to those for the
-ladies.</p>
-
-<p>No reply is necessary from one invited
-to such a reception, either of acceptance
-or of refusal. The presence of the guests
-is deemed a sufficient answer. In the event
-of non-attendance, the guest must be at
-pains to send cards, and these should be
-so timed in the sending that they will
-reach their address on the day of the at
-home, preferably in the afternoon.</p>
-
-<p>At crowded affairs, the guest displays
-good manners as well as good sense by
-making the stay short. Twenty minutes
-is a sufficient time, and departure should
-not be delayed much beyond a half-hour.
-It is better not to say farewell to the hostess,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>
-unless the going should be at a time
-when few guests remain, and she is obviously
-at leisure.</p>
-
-<p>The punctilious guest will make a point
-of arriving neither too early nor too late.
-Between half-past four and six is recommended.</p>
-
-<p>The formal evening reception is less
-popular than in former days, but it still
-prevails to a limited extent. The procedure
-throughout is substantially the same as for
-that of the afternoon reception. The wording
-of the invitation is identical, with the
-single exception of the time specified.</p>
-
-<p>The line that indicated the hours from
-four until seven o’clock must be changed
-to read:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>From nine until eleven o’clock</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Or, it may be properly stated, if one’s
-taste so dictates:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>After nine o’clock</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>While for the evening reception all other
-formal details are the same as for an afternoon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
-affair, the costumes of the guests,
-both men and women, are changed as befits
-the change in hours. The men are
-scrupulous in the exactitude of their evening
-garb—swallow tail, white linen and
-white cravat and white waistcoat, and
-patent-leather shoes; while the women
-array themselves in their handsomest evening
-gowns, decolleté and sleeveless, and
-display the richest of their jewels.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>BACHELOR HOSTS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-w.jpg" width="124" height="131" alt="W" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">WHEN A BACHELOR entertains
-either in the afternoon
-or evening, he follows in a
-general way the procedure
-indicated for receptions
-under the heading “At Homes.” If the
-affair is to be elaborate, he may use engraved
-invitations.</p>
-
-<p class="center"><br /><br /><br />
-<i>Mr. Hartley Fane Treadwell<br />
-<br />
-requests the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-.................................<br />
-<br />
-company<br />
-<br />
-on Wednesday afternoon, November the first<br />
-<br />
-From four until seven o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Nine East Third Street</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>A word or two at the bottom on the left
-may indicate any special entertainment,
-such as <i>Music</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>But there are certain proprieties to be
-observed that are peculiar to the bachelor.
-For example, he is not permitted to use a
-visiting-card with a line written on it for
-less formal invitations. Instead, he must
-write a note in the first person, or he may
-give the invitation orally. The invitations
-should be issued a week or a little
-less before the appointed time.</p>
-
-<p>There is one other requirement of vital
-importance. The bachelor must always
-have a chaperon present for any gathering
-that includes both sexes. And she must be
-invited by note, or orally—even in cases
-where the formal engraved invitations are
-employed.</p>
-
-<p>The chaperon pours tea, and on occasions
-when the guests are seated at table,
-she is given the place on the host’s right,
-unless there is a guest of honor, when she
-is given the position on his left.</p>
-
-<p>The other women guests must take their
-departure at the same time as the chaperon,
-unless they prefer an earlier hour.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The presence of the chaperon at such
-entertainments makes it unnecessary for
-the unmarried girl to provide one for
-herself.</p>
-
-<p>The chaperon should be a married
-woman, and her husband must be included
-among the invited guests.</p>
-
-<p>When a bachelor wishes to issue engraved
-invitations for a formal dinner-party
-or luncheon, he uses the forms provided
-respectively in the chapters entitled
-“Dinners” and “Luncheons.” The directions
-as to breakfasts also will be found
-appropriate in a general way as set forth
-in the special chapter.</p>
-
-<p>A bachelor should always be punctilious
-in calling on a chaperon shortly after any
-affair at which she has officiated, in order
-to tender his grateful appreciation of her
-services in his behalf.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>BALLS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t2.jpg" width="130" height="140" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE INVITATIONS for a
-formal ball are engraved on
-a sheet similar to that used
-for dinner-parties. But, like
-the dinner-invitations, they
-may also be written by the hostess. In
-sending these invitations by mail only one
-envelope is used when the invitation is
-written out. But the engraved form is
-enclosed first in an unsealed envelope
-with merely the name of the guest on the
-cover. This is put in a second envelope,
-which is sealed and has both the name and
-address written on it for posting. An engraved
-invitation, however, when delivered
-by a messenger requires only a single
-envelope, sealed.</p>
-
-<p>These invitations must be sent out not
-less than ten days before the date of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>
-ball, and they may be issued three weeks
-before the appointed time.</p>
-
-<p>The accepted form may be either of those
-following:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. George Wheatley<br />
-<br />
-request the pleasure of your company<br />
-<br />
-on Wednesday evening, April the second<br />
-<br />
-at half-past nine o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Dancing 71 Hamilton Place</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. George Wheatley<br />
-<br />
-Miss Wheatley<br />
-<br />
-At Home<br />
-<br />
-Tuesday, April the ninth<br />
-<br />
-at eleven o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Dancing 71 Hamilton Place</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>It is permissible to write the initials,
-<i>R.s.v.p.</i> below the word <i>Dancing</i>.</p>
-
-<p>In place of <i>Dancing</i>, the word <i>Cotillon</i>
-may appear, if the whole evening is to be
-devoted especially to this dance. So, too,
-the words <i>Bal Poudré</i> may be substituted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>
-for <i>Dancing</i>, if the affair is to be a costume
-ball. Or any other form of entertainment
-may be similarly indicated.</p>
-
-<p>The form used in accepting or declining
-such an invitation follows exactly the wording
-given in a later chapter in connection
-with dinner-invitations.</p>
-
-<p>It is the duty of the hostess to greet her
-guests as at a dinner-party, and a daughter
-or daughters may assist her in her hospitable
-duties, but such assistance is not required
-of them. The host, also, may join
-his wife in receiving, and may make himself
-socially useful by various attentions
-to the guests. But such action on his part
-is discretionary, except that in the case of
-a woman guest of particular importance,
-he should take her in to supper if this is
-served at tables. Where a buffet supper
-is served, it is fitting that he should escort
-various guests from time to time.</p>
-
-<p>It is not always necessary to invite
-mothers or chaperons to a private ball,
-and in that case a girl may be sent with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
-a maid to accompany her. When the
-mother receives an invitation and accepts
-it, she may choose not to remain, but to
-leave after entrusting her daughter to the
-care of the hostess, or some other friend.</p>
-
-<p>At elaborate dances, the supper at midnight
-is served on small tables, at which
-the guests are seated. The buffet supper is
-popular on account of its convenience,
-since the guests select whatever pleases
-them at any time.</p>
-
-<p>Unlike the rule as to dinners, there is no
-obligation for prompt arrival on the ball
-guest. Likewise, the guest may leave at
-any time. It is not necessary to seek the
-hostess for a farewell, but if she is near,
-she should be addressed with appropriate
-phrase in appreciation of the hospitality
-that has been enjoyed.</p>
-
-<p>A girl at a ball usually establishes herself
-in a seat by her chaperon, to whom
-she returns according to her convenience
-after dancing. It is perfectly proper for
-her, if at any time she wishes to be rid of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
-a partner, to ask that he accompany her
-back to this seat beside her chaperon.</p>
-
-<p>Evening clothes are essential for the
-male guest at a ball, and the wearing of
-white gloves is obligatory. A careful man
-is very likely to provide himself with an
-extra pair. At informal dances, ungloved
-men often cover the hand with a handkerchief
-to avoid any risk of soiling a partner’s
-bodice. If a man serves as escort for a
-woman, or for a girl and her chaperon, it is
-a part of his duty to provide a carriage to
-and fro.</p>
-
-<p>The ball-dress for women is usually the
-most elegant their taste and means will
-contrive. It is always decolleté, and commonly
-sleeveless.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>BREAKFASTS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="136" height="141" alt="A" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">A &nbsp; HOSTESS MAY USE her
-visiting-card for invitations
-to breakfast, simply writing
-on it below her name:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Breakfast at eleven o’clock<br />
-April the fourth</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>A more formal affair may have an engraved
-invitation on paper similar to that
-used in the case of dinners. This would
-have the following form:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. George Vinton Thorne<br />
-<br />
-requests the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-................................<br />
-<br />
-company at breakfast<br />
-<br />
-on....................................<br />
-<br />
-at.............................o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Eleven Green Street</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Or the hostess may, if she prefers, write
-a brief note of invitation in the first person.
-Whatever form is employed, the invitations
-should be sent out a full week, or a
-little more, before the date set for the
-breakfast.</p>
-
-<p>The answer to such an invitation should
-be sent promptly, whether in acceptance
-or in refusal. The form is identical with
-that for dinner-invitations, except that the
-word <i>breakfast</i> is substituted for the word
-<i>dinner</i>.</p>
-
-<p>Where the invitation is a note written
-in the first person, the answer must follow
-the same style.</p>
-
-<p>A breakfast of the more informal sort,
-with no more than eight or ten guests, may
-begin as early as ten o’clock, but a later
-hour is preferred for very ceremonious
-affairs, with noon most esteemed as the
-hour.</p>
-
-<p>Grapefruit is usually served, with finger-bowl
-accompaniment, and the meal that
-follows may be as simple or as elaborate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
-as the taste and resources of the hostess
-dictate.</p>
-
-<p>Usually both sexes are included among
-the guests at a breakfast. The women
-remove their gloves after taking their
-places at table, but not their hats. Veils
-may be removed entirely or pushed up
-out of the way, according to the wearer’s
-choice.</p>
-
-<p>The guest should remain at least a half-hour
-after the conclusion of the meal, but
-not longer than an hour unless justified by
-exceptional circumstances.</p>
-
-<p>Frock or cutaway coats are worn by the
-men, and afternoon dress by the women.
-The costumes for a ten o’clock breakfast
-should be somewhat plainer than for one
-at the more formal hour of noon.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>CALLS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-f.jpg" width="128" height="128" alt="F" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">FORMAL CALLS are to be
-made in the afternoon between
-three o’clock and
-half-past five.</p>
-
-<p>If a hostess has a day at
-home, formal calls on her should be made
-on that day. It is well also so to time visits
-for congratulation or to return thanks for
-any hospitality, or the like, as to have them
-also fall on the day at home. Usually, a
-due attention by visitors to this set time
-for calling is appreciated by a hostess.</p>
-
-<p>While the formal hours for calls are in
-the afternoon as indicated above, the time
-varies in different neighborhoods. Evening
-calls are common in the country necessarily
-as a matter of convenience. And, while in
-the city women pay no formal calls on
-Sunday, these are permitted in smaller<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>
-places. Ordinarily, too, there is license in
-the country as to the length even of formal
-calls, which may be extended without impropriety
-far beyond the limit of fifteen or
-twenty minutes which is well established
-in the city. A new resident or visitor in
-any community should be at pains to get
-information as to the local usage, and conform
-to it in all details.</p>
-
-<p>It is permissible for men in our country
-to make social calls in the afternoon on
-Sunday, or in the evening. The exigencies
-of business are the excuse for the departure
-from the stricter form, which still holds in
-the case of women. The hour of such evening
-calls in the larger cities is from eight to
-nine, but the time is earlier in smaller
-towns and in the country. In every instance,
-the local custom is to be followed.
-Of course, too, men of leisure may pay
-their calls in the afternoon.</p>
-
-<p>New residents in a neighborhood must
-await calls from those already established
-there. In the city, the first calls of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>
-social season should be received by the
-hostess who first sends out her at-home
-cards. Where women have met out of
-town, and wish to continue the acquaintance
-in the city, the unmarried woman
-should call on the matron, or one who is
-under any obligation for hospitality should
-make the first call. Unless a distinction
-be drawn for some such reason, either may
-properly pay the first visit.</p>
-
-<p>It is notorious that in the large cities
-there is no welcome for the newcomer from
-the dweller next door or across the street.
-The conditions of city life justify such
-aloofness. On the other hand, the conditions
-of life in the smaller places warrant
-exactly the opposite in the matter of hospitality.
-It is the recognized duty of the
-older residents to welcome new arrivals by
-calling on them promptly, after the strangers
-have had time to dispose themselves
-comfortably.</p>
-
-<p>There are many varieties of those calls
-that are imposed by formal courtesy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>
-Thus, in the matter of weddings, it becomes
-the duty of any one who has taken
-official part in the affair, such as a bride’s-maid
-or a best man, to call on the mother
-of the bride within a few days after the
-marriage ceremony, and also to call on
-the bride immediately after her return
-from the honeymoon trip. The like duty
-devolves on invited guests to a home wedding,
-to a wedding-reception and to a
-wedding-breakfast.</p>
-
-<p>A similar formal call should be paid to
-the hostess by each guest at a dinner, or
-breakfast, or other special entertainment.
-Such a call must be made within two
-weeks. The obligation is the same even in
-cases where the invitation has been declined.</p>
-
-<p>As to the returning of calls, such visits
-should be made on the day at home if
-there is one, and otherwise at a suitable
-time according to the social usage of the
-neighborhood within a fortnight. But this
-ruling applies properly only to the return<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
-for a first call. Afterward, a longer or
-shorter interval may elapse between visits
-according to the desire of the parties concerned.
-A former acquaintance may be
-maintained merely by an annual exchange
-of calls. It must be noted, however, that
-a call in person demands a personal visit
-in return. The formal leaving of a card at
-the door does not suffice.</p>
-
-<p>Persons giving up their residence in a
-community or going on a long journey
-should send their cards to their full visiting-list
-with the initials <i>P.p.c.</i> (<i>Pour prendre
-congé</i>, for leave-taking).</p>
-
-<p>It occurs often that a person wishes to
-call on a friend in the home of a stranger.
-Such a call is permissible, but the visitor
-should ask for the hostess as well as the
-friend, and leave a card for her.</p>
-
-<p>In the matter of initiative, it is fitting
-that an elder woman should invite a
-younger to the exchange of cards and
-calls, and that the matron should thus
-invite the maiden. Where there is equality<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>
-of years or station, the first advance must
-depend on the personal inclinations of the
-parties.</p>
-
-<p>The proprieties in reference to calls between
-women are thus seen to be simple
-enough. There is more complexity in the
-procedure when it has to do with the calling
-of men on women. It is not deemed
-proper for a young unmarried woman to
-invite calls from men. Such visits on their
-part are left to the discretion of the mother
-or chaperon. But, undoubtedly, the débutante
-will see to it that mother or chaperon
-does not fail in her functions. As
-to the older women, and those married,
-there is some variation locally in the polite
-usage. Sometimes the woman feels it her
-privilege to invite the man to call without
-awaiting solicitation on his part; sometimes
-she requires that the advance should
-be on the part of the man in the form of
-a request for permission to visit her.</p>
-
-<p>If any person requires that a definite
-time should be given for the emancipation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>
-of a girl from the social dominance of her
-mother or chaperon, it may be set at about
-the twenty-fifth year, after which time a
-young woman is theoretically fitted to
-decide for herself as to who her visitors
-shall be.</p>
-
-<p>A young woman of sensibility will be
-extremely chary of her invitations to men,
-and very sure before extending them that
-they are really desired. If at any time a
-man fails to avail himself of such an invitation,
-her self-respect will not permit her
-to repeat it.</p>
-
-<p>The strictness of the above rules of conduct
-has been greatly relaxed in the case
-of the average American girl, who democratically
-insists from the outset of her
-social career on her own choice in the
-matter of acquaintances and friends. But
-even this laxity does not permit an invitation
-to a man on the first meeting.
-Such haste is neither good form nor ordinary
-prudence.</p>
-
-<p>In a consideration of formal calls, it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
-should be noted that in practise the offices
-of the wife are commonly accepted in her
-husband’s behalf by her leaving his card
-when she pays her dinner-call, or the like.
-The exigencies of business are supposed to
-justify this vicarious method.</p>
-
-<p>While it is proper for a woman to call
-upon a man for business reasons, social
-calls are forbidden.</p>
-
-<p>Calls of condolence, except when there
-is an intimate friendship, are properly made
-by leaving a card. The expression of
-sympathy is usually best made by a brief
-note.</p>
-
-<p>Calls of congratulation may be made by
-acquaintances of both sexes on a woman
-who announces her engagement to be married.
-Calls following the announcement
-of a birth are expected by the mother from
-the women of her acquaintance.</p>
-
-<p>The day at home is such a social convenience
-that it is popular, not only in the
-cities, but in many smaller towns. It is
-usually set for one afternoon in the week,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
-sometimes for an afternoon each two weeks
-during the social season. The day should
-appear on the visiting-card. The hours
-for entertaining on the day at home are
-from three until six, but this period is
-frequently extended for another hour. The
-hostess should devote herself assiduously
-to her guests, and should provide some
-light forms of food and drink. Usually,
-tea is served. Sufficient notice is given
-of the day at home by sending out the
-visiting-cards at the beginning of the
-season. One advantage of the day at
-home is that it justifies the hostess in not
-receiving casual callers on other occasions.</p>
-
-<p>It is the duty of the hostess to meet
-and address each guest with a handshake.
-“How do you do, Mrs. Smith? I am so
-glad to see you!” or a similar phrase, should
-be used in greeting each arrival. She
-should also introduce strangers to other
-guests near by. She should not leave the
-reception-room to make her farewells to
-departing guests, unless in case of some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>
-person of particular distinction. “Good-afternoon,
-Mr. Brown. I shall hope to
-see you again very soon,” or the like,
-affords a sufficient form of farewell.</p>
-
-<p>If the husband is present during his
-wife’s at home, he should undertake to
-second her hospitable efforts to the best
-of his ability, showing attention to any
-requiring it.</p>
-
-<p>A woman caller does not remove her
-gloves or veil, or even her wrap, unless it
-is a heavy one. But rubbers and umbrella
-and any heavy outer garment should be
-left in the hall.</p>
-
-<p>For a man, formal politeness permits
-the carrying of both hat and stick into the
-drawing-room. But this rule is to-day
-more honored in the breach than in the
-observance. And, too, the right hand at
-least is usually ungloved. The hat and
-stick, when carried, are held in the left
-hand, and should be retained throughout
-the call, though it is permissible to put
-them down on the floor beside one, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
-greater convenience when taking refreshments.</p>
-
-<p>When the day at home is of a formal
-sort, the women do not exchange kisses in
-greeting, and the gloves are not taken off
-even when tea is drunk.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>CARDS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-v.jpg" width="124" height="130" alt="V" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">VISITING-CARDS are of
-three sizes, which remain
-practically the same year
-after year. The largest is
-that used by matrons, while
-that of the unmarried woman is a very little
-smaller, and that of the man much smaller.
-The present style as to materials favors a
-polished bristol board that is white and
-substantial without being too heavy. This
-should be printed from an engraved plate
-in black ink. The lettering may be a running
-script or old English.</p>
-
-<p>Under no circumstances should a woman’s
-card carry any prefix other than <i>Mrs.</i> or
-<i>Miss</i>, but one or the other of these invariably
-appears. This rule does not apply in
-the case of professional women who may
-wish a distinctive card for business purposes,
-with its prefix of <i>Dr.</i> or <i>Rev.</i> Such<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
-a card would also carry the address in the
-lower right-hand corner and perhaps office-hours
-in the lower left-hand corner. But
-even the professional woman requires the
-plainer form of card for social purposes.</p>
-
-<p>There is a tendency at present to give the
-name in full on the card. For example,
-<i>Mrs. John James Smith</i>, or <i>Miss Maude
-MacArthur</i>.</p>
-
-<p>It is permissible for the senior matron of
-a family to use only the family name on
-her card with the prefix: for example,
-<i>Mrs. Fuller</i>. It is more common, however,
-to omit the Christian name of an eldest
-daughter who is unmarried: <i>Miss Fuller</i>.
-The other daughters require the Christian
-name on their cards: <i>Miss Mary Fuller</i>,
-<i>Miss Gladys Fuller</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The tendency in this country is strongly
-against the omission of the name in either
-of the above cases. Although it is perfectly
-correct as a social usage, it is opposed to
-the spirit of our institutions.</p>
-
-<p>There is some variation in the use of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>
-name on the card in the case of a widow.
-It is within the woman’s choice whether
-she will continue to use the Christian name
-of her husband on the card, or will put
-her own in place of it. In other words, she
-may use the same cards after the death of
-her husband as before if she prefers, or she
-may follow the <i>Mrs.</i> with her own Christian
-name. A common form to-day gives the
-woman’s Christian name and the surname
-to which she was born and finally the surname
-of her husband. A present vogue
-permits also the use of only the two surnames,
-without the Christian name. Thus,
-Mary Brown marries James Robinson. The
-husband dies and the widow changes her
-visiting-cards, which have read, <i>Mrs.
-James Robinson</i>, so that they now read,
-<i>Mrs. Mary Robinson</i>. Then presently she
-grows ambitious socially and has her cards
-changed to read, <i>Mrs. Mary Brown Robinson</i>.
-Soon, she seizes on a newer style, and
-again changes her cards in accordance with
-it to read, <i>Mrs. Brown Robinson</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>It should be noted that the variations in
-cards practised by widows are used also
-by divorced women. And when a divorcée
-resumes her maiden name she properly
-uses with it the prefix <i>Mrs.</i>, not <i>Miss</i>.</p>
-
-<p>As a matter of strict propriety, a girl
-during her first social season does not formally
-use an individual card. Her name
-appears below that of her mother in the
-same lettering. When making calls unaccompanied
-by her mother, the latter’s
-name is crossed out with a pencil mark.</p>
-
-<p>Where two daughters of nearly the same
-age are concerned, both are included on
-the mother’s card by the words <i>The Misses</i>,
-followed by the family name.</p>
-
-<p>The above details are applied especially
-to a débutante in the first season. Afterward,
-a young woman uses her own individual
-card when calling alone. But this
-card should not carry on it the day at
-home. The at-home statement appears
-on the mother’s individual card. It is
-given also on the card combining the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>
-names of mother and daughter. The combination
-card may with correctness be
-frequently used in appropriate circumstances
-until the daughter’s marriage.</p>
-
-<p>The notice of the day at home is placed
-in the lower left-hand corner of the card.
-Only the day of the week is given, or with
-such qualification as may be required if
-the at-home day is not of weekly recurrence.
-The hours should not be specified
-unless they are a distinct variation from
-the customary time, between three and
-six. In addition, a time limit to the at
-homes may be specified. Thus, <i>Fridays
-until March</i>. Of course, the beginning is
-set for any individual by reception of the
-card.</p>
-
-<p>A married woman finds frequent use for
-a card in combination with her husband,
-though this by no means takes the place
-of her individual cards, and, while it bears
-the address in the lower right-hand corner,
-does not usually give the at-home day.
-This card may properly be used for those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
-formal occasions in which her husband is
-concerned. For example, it may fittingly
-accompany a gift from husband and wife.
-It serves also for announcing a marriage
-with the residence of the bridal couple.</p>
-
-<p>A man’s visiting-card always carries the
-prefix <i>Mr.</i> The single exception to this
-is when <i>Jr.</i> follows the name. The name
-is commonly given in full, but it is permissible
-to use only the initial of the middle
-name. It is strictly proper for the male
-head of a family to use only the family
-name on his card, preceded by <i>Mr.</i> Thus,
-the head of the Smiths—could he be
-located—might use on his visiting-card
-merely <i>Mr. Smith</i>, instead of <i>Mr. John
-Smith</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The home address appears in the lower
-right-hand corner of the card, and a bachelor
-may add also the name of a club in the
-lower left-hand corner. The business address,
-of course, should never appear on
-the card used for social purposes. Likewise,
-a day at home should not be given<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
-by a bachelor even though he may entertain
-regularly.</p>
-
-<p>It is a safe rule to avoid titles on the
-visiting-cards of men as of women. The
-only exceptions are in instances little likely
-to concern the average reader of this book.
-Such instances are afforded by the President
-of the United States, the Vice-President,
-Ambassadors, the higher Judiciary,
-Army and Navy Officers, clergymen and
-physicians. The custom in the army, however,
-forbids any prefix except plain <i>Mr.</i>
-to an officer below the rank of Captain.</p>
-
-<p>In the case of all officers the nature of
-his command is properly stated in a lower
-corner of the card.</p>
-
-<p>Lawyers and physicians should have
-only the home address on the card used
-for social purposes. Another card with
-the business address should be used for
-business purposes. But <i>Dr.</i> is properly
-used by the physician in place of <i>Mr.</i> on
-his visiting-cards. Likewise, a clergyman
-uses <i>Reverend</i>, or its abbreviation <i>Rev.</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
-on all his cards, which are commonly identical
-for both social and professional uses.</p>
-
-<p>The letters indicative of degrees are not
-given after the name on the visiting-card,
-though a single exception is sometimes
-made by clergymen who omit <i>Rev.</i> before
-their names and, in lieu of it, use <i>D.D.</i>
-following the name.</p>
-
-<p>When it becomes necessary, for any reason,
-to write one’s name on a visiting-card,
-the prefix <i>Mr.</i> should be given, following
-the ordinary form of the engraved card.</p>
-
-<p>Care should be taken in the case of
-mourning-cards to avoid a too ostentatious
-parade of grief by an unduly broad margin
-of black. Somewhat less than a half inch
-is permissible for a widow’s card, and,
-after the first year, it is well to have this
-width reduced. Often, other reductions
-in the size of the border are made at intervals
-of six months, as long as the period of
-mourning continues.</p>
-
-<p>The card of a widower must carry a
-border proportionately narrower, as its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
-size is smaller than a woman’s card, but
-the decrease in width is made after the same
-manner.</p>
-
-<p>When a woman elects to remain in
-mourning permanently, the narrow black
-border may be retained throughout her
-lifetime.</p>
-
-<p>It is not customary to make variations
-in the mourning border for the commemoration
-of persons other than husband or
-wife. For these, a fitting width is about
-a twelfth part of an inch, which remains
-the same throughout the period of
-mourning.</p>
-
-<p>When a call is made on a day at home,
-the card or cards are commonly left in the
-hall on a tray placed for that purpose. A
-married woman calling on the at-home day
-of another married woman for the first
-time in the season leaves her own card
-and two of her husband’s cards. But
-in later calls on the at-home day she
-leaves her card and the two cards of her
-husband’s only when the call acknowledges<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>
-entertainment offered to them by
-the hostess.</p>
-
-<p>There has been considerable simplification
-in recent years as to the leaving of
-cards. They are no longer weirdly bent
-in sign of delivery in person, and a smaller
-number are used. Thus, though the hostess
-referred to above may have unmarried
-daughters receiving with her, cards for
-them need not be left. But the presence
-of a married daughter or a friend formally
-assisting in the reception of the
-guests requires the leaving of a card.</p>
-
-<p>A woman leaves no cards for the men
-of the family where she visits.</p>
-
-<p>It is the business of the wife to fulfill
-her husband’s formal social duties by leaving
-his cards with hers whenever entertainment
-should be acknowledged.</p>
-
-<p>Where two spinsters share a residence,
-a woman caller, the first time in the season,
-should leave two of her cards, and also, if
-she is a married woman, two of her husband’s.
-So, too, a card should be left for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>
-a daughter or sister who is hostess of the
-house, even though she may be unmarried.</p>
-
-<p>When an unmarried girl uses her individual
-card, she should follow the procedure
-indicated for the matron in the
-use of hers. Or she may use the combination
-card of her mother and herself as already
-described above.</p>
-
-<p>A call on a mother and daughter who
-are out requires the leaving of two cards.
-The same procedure is necessary in the
-case of a hostess who has a friend staying
-with her. Likewise, a call made
-on a friend who is a guest in another’s
-house demands the leaving of two cards.
-This rule applies in the case of a man as
-well as of a woman. It should be observed
-that two cards are deemed sufficient in
-most cases. Where, however, the hostess
-has a guest staying with her and also
-daughters of her own, three cards are to
-be left.</p>
-
-<p>A man wishing to call on a particular
-woman must be punctilious in leaving cards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
-not only for the particular one in whom he
-is interested, but also for the mother or
-chaperon, and still a third for the host.
-But, if a call is made on a woman on her
-at-home day, no card need be left, unless
-the call is in acknowledgment of entertainment.
-In the latter case, a single card
-is left for the host. It is advisable, however,
-that in his first call he should leave
-a card for convenience in the matter of
-address.</p>
-
-<p>It is permissible on certain occasions to
-leave visiting-cards with the servant at
-the door, or to send them through the mail
-or by a messenger, instead of making the
-call in person. Sometimes a woman who
-is owing a call thus sends her card along
-with an invitation, as for luncheon or dinner.
-The invitation is considered to justify
-the merely formal matter of the card. So,
-too, a person receiving an invitation from
-a hostess who is a stranger must, if the
-invitation is declined, leave cards within
-two weeks after the date of the entertainment.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>
-An invalid may send cards through
-the post in acknowledgment of calls of
-inquiry, and a woman in mourning is able
-to fulfill her obligations in the same manner.
-Cards are formally left by all who
-receive invitations to a church wedding,
-and the requirement is the same for those
-to whom an announcement of the marriage
-is sent. Such cards are demanded of men
-and women both, to be left for the mother
-of the bride within a fortnight after the
-ceremony. Cards are left within a proper
-time after any form of entertainment to
-which the members of a club are invited,
-though there may be no other social acquaintance
-with the hostess. In calls of
-condolence or inquiry, cards are always
-left. They may be used also, as hereinbefore
-stated, to announce a prolonged
-absence or a change of address.</p>
-
-<p>When cards are left in person, they are
-delivered to the servant at the door. One
-or two or three are to be left according
-to the circumstances. The caller should<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>
-tell the servant the persons for whom the
-cards are designed.</p>
-
-<p>Good taste dictates that calls of inquiry
-concerning the condition of a sick person
-should be made in person. Cards should
-be left at the time of such calls, except in
-the case of intimates. The cards should
-not be mailed or sent by messenger.</p>
-
-<p>Acknowledgment of cards of condolence
-are made after a funeral by a large black-edged
-card of thanks, which should be sent
-within a month. Such cards are usually
-merely printed, not engraved. The wording
-should be of the simplest.</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. Jack Robinson<br />
-<br />
-returns thanks to<br />
-<br />
-.............................<br />
-<br />
-for her kind sympathy</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The address of the one sending the card
-should appear at the bottom.</p>
-
-<p>The form is varied according to circumstances.
-Thus:</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. Montgomery James and Family<br />
-return thanks for your kind sympathy</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Some persons prefer to leave their visiting-cards
-with the mourning border on
-those to whom acknowledgment is due,
-instead of sending the special card by
-mail. Personal calls, however, are not
-made by those in mourning within three
-months at least of the time of the funeral.
-If earlier acknowledgment is to be made,
-the visiting-card with mourning-border may
-be sent by mail within a few weeks. A
-word of thanks should be written on the
-card. For example:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>With grateful appreciation of your sympathy</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The use of <i>P.p.c.</i> cards has already been
-described in the chapter on calls. It should
-be added that they are convenient when
-one is leaving on short notice without time
-to pay in person all calls due. The <i>P.p.c.</i>
-card involves no duty of acknowledgment
-on the part of its recipient.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>A woman temporarily stopping in any
-place sends cards containing her address
-to any acquaintances she may have there.
-Her ordinary visiting-card serves the purpose,
-with a pencil line drawn through the
-engraved address and the temporary one
-written above it. But a man, in the same
-circumstances, makes his calls in person.</p>
-
-<p>The new-born infant embarks on its
-social career by means of the card. The
-birth of a child is made known to the
-mother’s social list by mailing the mother’s
-card, which has tied to it by a strip of
-white satin ribbon a card only a quarter
-as large carrying the full name of the baby.
-In this case, the prefix <i>Mr.</i> or <i>Miss</i> is
-omitted, but the date of birth appears in
-a lower corner. The recipients of these
-cards are required to call with inquiry as
-to the health of the senders, and to leave
-their cards in return. Persons residing
-at a distance may post their cards of acknowledgment,
-with a penciled phrase of
-congratulation.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>DINNERS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-f2.jpg" width="133" height="140" alt="F" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">FORMAL INVITATIONS
-to dinner should be sent
-between five and ten days
-before the date. A hostess
-may use her own discretion
-as to whether she will write the invitations
-by hand or use an engraved form. The
-wording is the same in either case.</p>
-
-<p class="center"><br /><br /><br /><br />
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Walter Peck<br />
-<br />
-request the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-...........................................<br />
-<br />
-company at dinner<br />
-<br />
-on.................evening<br />
-<br />
-at........................o’clock<br />
-<br />
-401 Armstrong Street</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The engraved form should be printed on
-a large, heavy piece of bristol board in old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>
-English or block type, or in script. When
-the dinner has a guest of honor, notice of
-the fact may be given by a line across the
-bottom of the invitation:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>To meet Captain Arthur Shayne</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Or a special small card may be inclosed
-with the invitation, on which is engraved a
-similar phrase.</p>
-
-<p>When the affair is of extraordinary importance,
-the form of invitation may dignify
-the purpose by announcing it at the
-outset.</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>To meet<br />
-<br />
-The Bishop of Albany<br />
-<br />
-Mr. and Mrs. William Astor<br />
-<br />
-request the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-........................................<br />
-<br />
-company at dinner<br />
-<br />
-on...........................evening<br />
-<br />
-at.............................o’clock<br />
-<br />
-401 Armstrong Street</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>For dinners to which only a small number
-of persons are invited and these
-mutually acquainted, the formal mode
-of invitation is not required. A simple
-note is sufficient.</p>
-<div class="blockquot">
-<p class="right">
-<i>31 Hamilton Place,<br />
-<span style="margin-right: 1em;">March 7th, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><i>My Dear Mrs. Robinson:</i></p>
-
-<p><i>Will you and Mr. Robinson, if
-disengaged, give us the pleasure of your
-company at dinner on Friday the thirteenth,
-at half-past seven o’clock?</i></p>
-
-<p class="sig">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 4em;">Yours sincerely,</span><br />
-Edith MacArthur</i><br />
-</p></div>
-
-<p>This form may be varied according to
-the taste of the writer and the degree of
-intimacy with the person to whom the
-invitation is sent.</p>
-
-<p>When it becomes necessary to invite some
-one to take the place of a guest who is
-unable to be present, this late invitation
-should not be of the formal sort, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>
-should be contained in a note frankly explaining
-the circumstances. Such invitations,
-of course, are never made to merely
-formal acquaintances.</p>
-
-<p>The custom formerly prevailed of writing
-the initials <i>R.s.v.p.</i>, on the dinner invitations,
-the initials of the French words,
-répondez, s’il vous plaît (reply if you
-please). But this usage has lost favor.</p>
-
-<p>An invitation to dinner demands an immediate
-answer, either accepting or declining.
-The invitation cannot be accepted
-conditionally, nor can the decision be delayed.
-The form of reply should be as
-simple as the form of the invitation.</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i><span style="margin-left: 12em;">17 North Street</span><br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">April 30th, 1919</span><br />
-<br />
-Mr. and Mrs. Sloan Potter<br />
-<br />
-accept with pleasure<br />
-<br />
-Mr. and Mrs. John Morehouse’s<br />
-<br />
-invitation to dinner<br />
-<br />
-Tuesday evening, May the sixth<br />
-<br />
-at half-past seven</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>For a declination, the following form
-may be used:</p>
-
-<div class="center">
-<i><span style="margin-left: 12em;">17 North Street</span><br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">April 30, 1919</span><br />
-<br />
-Mr. and Mrs. Sloan Potter<br />
-<br />
-regret that their absence from the city<br />
-<br />
-must prevent their acceptance of<br />
-<br />
-Mr. and Mrs. John Morehouse’s<br />
-<br />
-invitation to dinner on<br />
-<br />
-Tuesday evening, May the sixth<br />
-<br />
-at half-past seven</i><br />
-</div>
-
-<p>The invitation in the form of a note is
-answered similarly by a note. Thus:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<p class="right">
-<i>42 Chestnut Street<br />
-<span style="margin-right: 2em;">April 30, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<i>My Dear Mrs. Morehouse:</i>
-
-<p><i>It is with much pleasure that
-I accept your kind invitation to dinner
-on Tuesday evening, the sixth,
-at half-past seven o’clock.</i></p>
-
-<p class="sig">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 2em;">Yours sincerely,</span><br />
-Helen Potter</i><br />
-</p></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>A declination should state a courteous
-reason.</p>
-
-<p>All such answers are addressed to the
-hostess alone. If she is married the husband
-is, nevertheless, omitted from the
-address.</p>
-
-<p>The reply to an informal invitation
-should always be correspondingly informal.</p>
-
-<p>For a formal dinner, there should be an
-even number of guests, eight or ten, or
-more, with the sexes evenly divided.</p>
-
-<p>Either a round or square table will serve,
-but it should be large enough to accommodate
-all the party without crowding.</p>
-
-<p>A pad should cover the table. The white
-cloth over this should be so large that the
-corners reach nearly to the floor.</p>
-
-<p>A folded napkin is placed on each plate,
-with a roll or piece of bread laid within it.
-Three forks are laid to the left of the plate,
-with prongs up. Two steel knives are to
-the right of the plate, and then a silver
-knife, the edge of each to the left. A soup
-spoon follows the silver knife, and then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>
-an oyster fork. Other utensils are sometimes
-added, but are not necessary.</p>
-
-<p>A goblet for water is placed before the
-knives. With it are grouped whatever
-wine glasses may be required. A small
-card lying on the napkin carries the name
-of the guest to be seated here.</p>
-
-<p>When dinner is announced, the host
-offers his arm to the woman who is to sit
-on his right, and leads the way to the
-dining-room. Already, in welcoming the
-guests, the hostess has made known the
-dinner-partners, introducing them when
-necessary. These now follow in pairs to
-the dining-room. The hostess brings up the
-rear. The guests find their places by the
-cards.</p>
-
-<p>The hostess does not rise in greeting a
-late arrival, even a woman. But the host
-does, and sees to the seating of the laggard.</p>
-
-<p>It has long been the custom for the ladies
-to leave the dining-room after the fruit
-course, and to have coffee served in the
-drawing-room. In such case, the men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>
-stand until the women have passed out.
-Afterward, they seat themselves where
-they please, and smoking is permitted. The
-present-day tendency, however, is toward
-lessening the time of this separation and
-often doing away with it altogether, especially
-at less formal dinners, which otherwise
-follow an essentially identical routine.</p>
-
-<p>Both host and hostess must say farewell,
-standing, with a handclasp, to each guest.</p>
-
-<p>As for the guest, his first duty is to arrive
-exactly on time. Fifteen minutes of delay
-is the limit.</p>
-
-<p>On ceremonious occasions, the hostess
-writes a lady’s name on a card, and places
-it in an envelope. This is given to the
-male guest on his arrival by a servant, and
-from it he learns the identity of the one
-he is to take in to dinner. When the dinner
-is announced, he offers his arm, and
-escorts the woman into the dining-room,
-where he pulls out her chair, and stands
-until she is seated.</p>
-
-<p>It is permissible for dinner-partners,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>
-after the opening courses, to give some
-attention to their other immediate neighbors.</p>
-
-<p>A guest is free to leave at any time after
-the conclusion of the dinner. Usually, an
-hour is long enough to remain after the
-meal is ended.</p>
-
-<p>In taking leave, the guest must express
-a courteous appreciation of the hospitality
-that has been extended.</p>
-
-<p>“I am under deep obligation to you, Mrs.
-Johnson, for a most delightful evening.”</p>
-
-<p>This, or any similar pleasant phrases of
-gratitude, will serve. The words of appreciation
-should be particularly addressed to
-the hostess always.</p>
-
-<p>Evening dress is required for all guests
-at a formal dinner. For men, the regulation
-swallow-tail is imperative. The wearing
-of a dinner-jacket is not allowable on
-any occasion of ceremony.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>GARDEN-PARTIES</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-g.jpg" width="124" height="131" alt="G" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">GARDEN-PARTIES are probably
-destined to grow in
-popularity in this century,
-for they offer one of the
-simplest and most pleasant
-forms of entertainment during those seasons
-when the outdoors is attractive.</p>
-
-<p>For such an affair, the hostess sends out
-invitations about ten days beforehand.
-These may be engraved on white bristol
-board, in which case either one of two
-forms is permissible.</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. Melville Stratton<br />
-<br />
-At Home<br />
-<br />
-Friday afternoon, April third<br />
-<br />
-from four until seven o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Garden-Party &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nine Park Square</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Or:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. Melville Stratton<br />
-<br />
-requests the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-.............................<br />
-<br />
-company on Friday afternoon<br />
-<br />
-April third<br />
-<br />
-from four until seven o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Garden-Party &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nine Park Square</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>If less pretentiousness is preferred for the
-occasion, the hostess may merely use a
-visiting-card. Below her name she writes:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Garden-Party, April third, four to<br />
-seven o’clock.</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Still a third method of issuing the invitations
-is by means of a short note, written
-in the first person.</p>
-
-<p>The formal engraved invitation demands
-a prompt reply, written in the third person.
-An acceptance might properly take this
-mode of expression:</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Clinton Brewster<br />
-<br />
-accept with pleasure<br />
-<br />
-Mrs. Stratton’s kind invitation<br />
-<br />
-for April third.<br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">Thirty Abernethey Row</span><br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">May twenty-fifth, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>A refusal might be in the following form:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Clinton Brewster<br />
-<br />
-regret that a previous engagement<br />
-<br />
-prevents their acceptance<br />
-<br />
-of Mrs. Stratton’s kind invitation<br />
-<br />
-for April third<br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">Thirty Abernethey Row</span><br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">May twenty-fifth, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>When the invitation is by means of the
-visiting-card, an answer is not obligatory.
-Yet, it is well to acknowledge this form of
-invitation, also, by sending a short note
-written in the first person, either accepting
-or refusing.</p>
-
-<p>Of course, when the invitation itself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>
-takes the form of a note, the answer should
-follow the same style.</p>
-
-<p>It is part of the duty of the hostess to
-put her house in order, as well as the
-grounds. The guests on arriving may, in
-many cases, go within before greeting the
-hostess, to lay aside wraps or heavy veils.
-Moreover, weather conditions may make
-it necessary to seek shelter indoors. It
-is often convenient also to have the refreshments
-set out on the porch. These should
-include hot and cold tea, punch or claret-cup,
-cakes, sandwiches, salads, fruits in
-season, and the like, which are partaken of
-by the guests according to their pleasure.</p>
-
-<p>Or a marquée may shelter the refreshments—a
-tent roof set up at any desired
-place on the lawn.</p>
-
-<p>The hostess receives her guests on the
-lawn. She wears an afternoon gown, suitable
-for the season, and a hat. But, if she
-prefers, she may leave off the hat, and use
-a parasol in its stead.</p>
-
-<p>The women guests, too, wear their most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>
-effective afternoon gowns and also hats and
-veils and gloves, which are not taken off.</p>
-
-<p>The men may wear frock or morning
-coats and silk hats, and this garb is common
-at garden-parties in England. In
-this country, however, more comfortable
-clothes are popular, and flannels, or other
-fabrics of light material, are favored.</p>
-
-<p>Guests leave their cards on a tray provided
-for that purpose in the hallway of
-the house. The requirements concerning
-cards have already been fully explained in
-the chapters on cards and at homes.</p>
-
-<p>After greeting the hostess, a guest must
-remain for at least twenty minutes, and
-may properly continue on throughout the
-whole afternoon.</p>
-
-<p>Discretion should be used in the matter
-of saying farewell. It should be omitted if
-the hostess is occupied. If she is free, good-bye
-may be spoken, and with it a phrase
-in appreciation of the hospitality.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>HOUSE-PARTIES</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t3.jpg" width="131" height="138" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE HOUSE-PARTY is
-made up of any number of
-guests, from half a dozen to
-a score, and may be merely
-for a few days or for any
-desired length of time. But, whatever is to
-be the length of the guest’s stay, it should
-be specifically stated in the invitation. It
-is a common saying that an invitation that
-sets no time for the visit is no invitation
-at all, and the saying is quite true.</p>
-
-<p>So, in writing her invitation, a hostess
-mentions the exact day for the guest’s
-arrival, and, as well, the exact day of departure.
-The invitation is always a note
-written in the first person. The following
-may serve as an illustration:</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<p class="right">
-<i>The Oaks, Hyde Park.<br />
-<span style="margin-right: 2em;">April 10, 1919.</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<i>Dear Mrs. Ashland:</i>
-
-<p><i>I should be delighted to have you
-come to us for the next week-end, and I
-hope that there is no previous engagement
-to prevent your giving us this
-pleasure.</i></p>
-
-<p><i>The best train for you to take
-from the city is the one leaving at three
-in the afternoon. Mr. Lawrence will
-meet this at the station here on Friday.</i></p>
-
-<p><i>In eager anticipation of your visit,
-believe me,</i></p>
-
-<p class="sig">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 2em;">Cordially yours,</span><br />
-Ella Lawrence</i><br />
-</p></div>
-
-<p>The guest’s answer to the invitation must
-be of the promptest, whether it accepts or
-rejects the proposal of a visit. It should,
-of course, be written in the first person.
-The wording is a matter for the individual
-taste, and the form following is offered
-merely as a suggestion.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<div class="right">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 1em;">47 Tremont St.,</span><br />
-New York.</i><br />
-<i><span style="margin-right: 1em;">April 11, 1919.</span></i><br />
-</div>
-
-<i>Dear Mrs. Lawrence:</i>
-
-<p><i>I am more pleased than I can tell
-you to receive your kind invitation, since
-there is nothing to prevent my acceptance
-of it. I shall take the three o’clock train
-on Friday afternoon for Hyde Park,
-and I am looking forward very eagerly
-to being with you so soon.</i></p>
-
-<p class="sig">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 2em;">Yours sincerely,</span><br />
-Roberta Ashland</i><br />
-</p></div>
-
-<p>The declination of the invitation should
-contain some fitting expression of regret,
-and an explanation as to the causes that
-render an acceptance impossible.</p>
-
-<p>It is imperative that a girl should be met
-at the station by her host in person, or, if
-convenient, preferably by the hostess, or
-perhaps by both. But this attention is
-not obligatory in the case of a married<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>
-couple or with a bachelor guest. But
-these, too, should be met at the station
-by a servant if not by the host, and duly
-conveyed to the house where they are to
-be entertained.</p>
-
-<p>The guest on arrival should be welcomed
-at the entrance by the hostess, if she has
-not been to the station, and after the
-greetings she escorts the guest, if this is a
-woman, to the chamber she is to occupy,
-and there leaves her to freshen herself
-after the journey.</p>
-
-<p>When the luggage is brought in, a competent
-maid will unpack it and distribute
-the contents through the drawers of the
-bureau and in the closet, and render such
-other services as may be required. A less
-competent maid can at least unstrap the
-luggage, remove trays, and help in the disposal
-of the contents.</p>
-
-<p>In the case of a man, after being greeted
-by his hostess, he is conducted to his
-room by the host.</p>
-
-<p>The wardrobe requirements for the visitor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>
-at a house-party are regulated by the probable
-nature of the entertainment that will
-be provided, by the season of the year, and
-by the particular social status of the hosts.
-No hard-and-fast rule can be given. Thus,
-where a woman visits a country house for
-a few days in the summer, she needs no
-larger wardrobe than can be carried in the
-tiniest of trunks, suitcase and hat-box.
-The hat used for traveling will serve her
-also on occasion during the visit, but she
-will need in addition a sport-hat for tramping
-or out-door games and another hat of
-sufficient elegance for wear at a lawn party
-or wherever more elaborate dress is necessary.
-The frocks should follow the lines
-thus indicated, and there should be a sufficiency
-of dainty waists and footgear besides
-the inevitable decolleté gowns for
-evening wear.</p>
-
-<p>For the man, also, evening clothes are
-essential, and he should be provided
-with flannels, besides the business suit in
-which he travels. For winter, the change<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>
-in season would demand a corresponding
-change in the matter of dress, especially
-for out of doors.</p>
-
-<p>The hostess plans sufficient entertainment
-for her guests, but, if she is discreet,
-she does not plan too many things. It is
-customary to leave the mornings to the
-devices of the guests, to be occupied by
-them according to their individual pleasure.
-Where a morning start is required on some
-expedition, such as a picnic, the hostess is
-likely to leave the evening free from any
-special entertainment.</p>
-
-<p>It is the duty of the guest to conform to
-the habits of the household. If the party
-assembles together for breakfast, he or she
-must make one of the number though the
-hour may be too early or too late for personal
-convenience. Likewise, the guest
-should accept such disposal of his or her
-time as the hostess may choose to make,
-even when the preference would be quite
-otherwise. The tactful hostess, of course,
-studies the likes and dislikes of her guests,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>
-and seeks to reconcile her hospitality so
-far as possible to their prejudices.</p>
-
-<p>It is customary to give tips on leaving a
-house-party to those servants with whom
-the guest has been brought more closely
-in contact. The maid who has attended to
-the room should receive a dollar from the
-visitor for a few days; the butler, if there
-is one, should receive a dollar and a half.
-The amount for the chauffeur should be
-regulated to some extent by his personal
-service in the guest’s behalf. Where there
-has been none, a dollar is sufficient.</p>
-
-<p>These figures are applicable in the cases
-of unmarried women and bachelors, although
-the tendency of the latter is to
-give more. The sums named, however, are
-regarded as acceptable by the servants
-themselves. Naturally, they enjoy the
-lavish, even prodigal tips given by certain
-persons of wealth, who are more ostentatious
-than discreet. Such indiscretions,
-however, need not set up a false standard
-for other guests.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In the case of a husband and wife, the
-tips to maid and butler, etc., should be
-increased. It is usual for the wife to tip
-the female servants, while the husband
-satisfies those of his own sex. When the
-care of the guest’s shoes devolves on a
-house-boy, he, too, should be remembered
-with a half-dollar.</p>
-
-<p>The male guests frequently give a tip
-of a dollar or more to the cook.</p>
-
-<p>It is the duty of the hostess in the case of
-a woman visitor to bid her farewell in person,
-even if this should necessitate arising
-at an unpleasantly early hour. But in the
-case of a man’s leaving thus early, it suffices
-if she makes her farewell the night
-before. It then becomes the duty of the
-host to attend on the guest for the breakfast
-and departure.</p>
-
-<p>In about a week after such a visit, the
-guest should write a note to the hostess,
-expressing warm appreciation of the hospitality
-thus enjoyed. It is also permissible
-for the guest to send a gift that is not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>
-too costly, such as a book, or any simple
-thing that may serve as a token of remembrance.
-But this is in no wise obligatory,
-and, in fact, good taste is likely to prevent
-the bestowal of such a gift in most cases.
-There could hardly be anything less satisfactory
-to a hostess than a string of such
-souvenirs from her whilom guests.</p>
-
-<p>Where the visit is a very short one, less
-than two days, it is customary to dispense
-with the bread-and-butter letter.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>INTRODUCTIONS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-s.jpg" width="133" height="140" alt="S" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">SIMPLICITY SHOULD always
-characterize good
-manners, and this truth
-applies especially in the
-matter of introductions.
-There should be no attempt at fine
-phrases.</p>
-
-<p>“Mrs. Smith, let me present Mr. Jones.”</p>
-
-<p>It is to be noted that the names of both
-persons concerned are given. They should
-be spoken with entire distinctness.</p>
-
-<p>In this form, a man is presented to a
-woman, and this is the rule to be generally
-observed. It is admissible for the introduction
-to contain an expression of the
-man’s wish for it.</p>
-
-<p>“Mrs. Smith, Mr. Jones desires to be
-presented to you.”</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Slight variations in the phrasing of these
-forms are permitted. For example, after
-saying, “Mrs. Smith, let me present Mr.
-Jones,” it is proper to add some such
-phrase as, “He is very anxious to meet
-you.”</p>
-
-<p>It is always a mark of courtesy to request
-a lady’s permission in advance of the actual
-introduction. When introductions are to
-be made between a woman, who is a newcomer,
-and an assembly of guests, the newcomer
-is given the formal distinction of
-receiving the introductions.</p>
-
-<p>“Miss Brown, let me present Mrs. Robinson,
-Miss Robinson, Miss Helen Robinson,
-Mr. Jones, Mr. Truesdale.”</p>
-
-<p>Often, the form of introduction is curtailed,
-especially when the company is
-numerous. In such case, merely the names
-are spoken, that of the stranger having first
-place.</p>
-
-<p>“Miss Brown—Mrs. Robinson, Miss
-Robinson, Miss Helen Robinson, Mr. Jones,
-Mr. Truesdale.”</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Care must be taken to remember that the
-person to whom the introduction is made
-has the place of honor. It is on this account
-that the rule of proper procedure requires
-the presentation of a man to a
-woman, and always the presentation of
-the inferior to the superior, although the
-distinction is usually purely theoretical.
-For example, an unmarried woman should
-be presented to a matron. So, the younger
-person should be presented to his or her
-elders; the ordinary person should be
-presented to the person of distinction.
-Where men or women are of nearly equal
-age or station, it is safer not to discriminate
-between them by presenting one to
-the other. It is enough merely to name
-them.</p>
-
-<p>“Mr. Smith, Mr. Robinson.” Or: “Mrs.
-Jones, Mrs. Brown.”</p>
-
-<p>It is a part of good tact on the part of a
-host or hostess in making introductions to
-add a few words of explanation as to some
-particular interest of each, which may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>
-of assistance to them at the beginning of
-their conversation.</p>
-
-<p>In every instance, the greatest care
-should be taken by the person making an
-introduction to pronounce both names with
-the utmost clearness. Nothing is more
-annoying than an indistinct mumble that
-leaves the hearers uninformed.</p>
-
-<p>When, for any reason, one fails to
-understand a stranger’s name at the
-time of introduction, it is permissible to
-ask it.</p>
-
-<p>“Pardon me, but I did not understand
-the name.”</p>
-
-<p>There are some variations that should
-be noted as to the manner of acknowledging
-an introduction. In her own home, a
-woman should offer her hand, while saying,
-“Mrs. Smith, I am very glad to meet you,”
-or any similar phrase of cordial greeting.
-But such a cordial phrase is not to be used
-by a woman when a man is presented to
-her, unless she is the hostess. A man, on
-the contrary, on receiving his introduction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>
-to a lady, should express his appreciation
-in a courteous sentence.</p>
-
-<p>“I am very glad to meet you, Miss
-Robinson.”</p>
-
-<p>The tendency to-day is toward elimination
-of handshaking by women on the occasion
-of an introduction, except in the case
-of a hostess. A slight bow of the head,
-a smile and the repetition of the stranger’s
-name are deemed enough. But
-many women still prefer a less formal
-manner, and give their hand when an introduction
-is made.</p>
-
-<p>It is the duty of a hostess to stand up
-when receiving an introduction. This applies
-equally whether the stranger is a
-man or a woman. But a woman other
-than the hostess, when a member of a
-group, remains seated during any introduction
-to her unless it is of one her superior
-in age or station, whom she should honor
-by rising. Otherwise, it is preferable for
-a woman to stand in acknowledging an
-introduction of one of her own sex, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>
-she should remain seated when a man is
-presented to her.</p>
-
-<p>In England, it is usual to omit introductions
-among those gathered in the same
-house, and guests are expected to conduct
-themselves as acquaintances without this
-formality. In our country, however, the
-custom has not prevailed to any considerable
-extent, and it is not ordinarily proper
-for strangers to address each other without
-having been introduced, even though they
-are fellow-guests.</p>
-
-<p>A hostess should introduce all her guests
-one to another at ordinary dinner-parties,
-luncheons, or breakfasts. But, in the case
-of very large dinner-parties, she is required
-only to introduce those who are to be partners
-at table, though it is advisable for her
-to make other introductions to any extent
-convenient. At the table, however, introductions
-should be carefully avoided. If
-the women leave the table before the men,
-other introductions may be made among
-them in the drawing-room. The men, too,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>
-on returning to the drawing-room may be
-presented to such women as they have not
-already met.</p>
-
-<p>When a hostess receives at home, she
-should introduce each new arrival to some
-of the guests who are near by. If she has
-an assistant in receiving, each guest should
-be presented. On formal occasions, it is
-not her duty to go about among the guests
-in order to introduce them.</p>
-
-<p>The hostess at a large ball follows a
-similar course of conduct. But in less
-formal affairs she should be at pains to
-see that no guest is neglected, and that
-each, as far as possible, has a due share
-in the dancing.</p>
-
-<p>It is especially desirable on all formal
-occasions, such as large balls for example,
-that a man wishing to present a friend to
-a woman should first privately ask her
-permission.</p>
-
-<p>Introductions of a very casual sort should
-never be taken too seriously. This applies
-particularly to those made in a public<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>
-place, such as the street, when a person
-accompanied by a friend meets an acquaintance,
-who is a stranger to that friend, and
-there is a pause for a brief chat. Usually,
-there is no occasion for an introduction
-under these circumstances, and if one is
-made it may be afterward ignored. As a
-matter of fact, only a rather extensive conversation
-between the acquaintances would
-justify an introduction. Perfunctory introductions
-of those temporarily associated
-in a game on the tennis court, or the like,
-are to be regarded as equally casual, and
-not of a sort necessitating subsequent
-recognition.</p>
-
-<p>Introductions may be formally made by
-letter. In such case, the letter should deal
-exclusively with the introduction. There
-is no set form, but the following will serve
-as a sufficient guide, to be varied according
-to personal inclination:</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<div class="right">
-<i>Burlington, Vermont.</i><br />
-<span style="margin-right: 1em;"><i>June 1, 1919.</i></span><br />
-</div>
-
-<i>My dear Mrs. Smith:</i>
-
-<p><i>It gives me great pleasure to introduce
-to you my friend, Miss Truesdale,
-who is about to visit relatives in your
-city. I shall deeply appreciate any
-courtesy you may show her.</i></p>
-
-<p><i>With kindest regards to yourself
-and Mr. Smith, I am,</i></p>
-
-<div class="sig">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 2em;">Yours sincerely,</span><br />
-Mabel Potter</i><br />
-</div></div>
-
-<p>A similar form will suffice for the introduction
-of a man, whether to another man
-or to a woman. Discretion should be exercised
-always in the granting of letters
-of introduction, and it is well to write a
-separate letter giving details concerning
-the person thus introduced. The letter of
-introduction itself should be placed in an
-addressed envelope, which is left unsealed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>
-to be presented in person by the one to be
-introduced.</p>
-
-<p>Instead of a letter, a common practise
-uses the visiting-card of the person making
-the introduction. In such case, a line is
-written across the top of the card.</p>
-
-<div class="center"><i>Introducing Mr. Russell Elliot</i></div>
-
-<p>This card also is enclosed within its
-proper envelope, duly addressed, but unsealed,
-and delivered to the person for
-whose benefit it is given.</p>
-
-<p>It is common for a man to call at the
-residence of the person to whom the introduction
-is addressed, and there give the
-envelope, still unsealed, to the servant, together
-with his own card. In the absence
-of the host or hostess, the caller places his
-own card inside the envelope, which is
-then sealed, and left. A woman never
-follows this procedure. She places her
-card in the envelope containing the introduction,
-which is then sealed, and dropped
-in the post for delivery.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>One receiving such a letter of introduction,
-whether man or woman, is expected,
-if the bearer is a woman, to call on her
-within two days’ time, and to follow this
-up with some sort of hospitable entertainment.
-If, for any imperative reason, a
-call is impossible, a letter should be written
-in explanation.</p>
-
-<p>The like procedure is followed when both
-parties are men. But when a man presents
-such a letter of introduction to a woman,
-she does not, of course, call upon him, but
-writes to extend her hospitable offers.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>LETTERS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t2.jpg" width="130" height="140" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE MOST TROUBLESOME
-detail in letter-writing
-is the matter of address.
-It should be noted that there
-is a distinction between <i>Dear</i>
-and <i>My dear</i>. In our country, the more formal
-style is with the pronoun, while the pronoun
-is omitted in writing to friends. A
-letter to a mere acquaintance begins
-with the words, <i>My dear</i> .............................
-But the form for an intimate is simply
-<i>Dear</i> .............................</p>
-
-<p>The usual address for business purposes
-and to those with whom no social relations
-are established is <i>Dear Sir</i>. The plural
-is used in addressing firms, <i>Dear Sirs</i>, or
-the one word <i>Gentlemen</i>, may be employed.</p>
-
-<p>In addressing a man with whom social
-relations are established, the surname is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>
-used, preceded by <i>Dear</i> or <i>My dear</i>, according
-to the degree of intimacy. <i>My dear
-Mr. Hudson; Dear Mr. Grant.</i></p>
-
-<p>A woman who is a stranger may be addressed
-either as <i>Madam</i> or <i>Dear Madam</i>,
-whether she be married or unmarried. The
-form “<i>Dear Miss</i>” is to be avoided under all
-circumstances.</p>
-
-<p>For the woman with whom the writer is
-formally acquainted, the address is: <i>My
-dear Mrs.</i> .............................., if she is married,
-and <i>My dear Miss</i> ............................, if she is
-unmarried. When the person is a friend,
-she should be addressed: <i>Dear Mrs.</i> ................,
-if she is a married woman, and <i>Dear Miss</i>
-............................, if she is unmarried.</p>
-
-<p>The full name should be signed to formal
-letters. The married woman should use
-her own Christian name, not her husband’s
-with the <i>Mrs.</i> prefixed. But, in business
-communications to strangers, she may very
-properly give her husband’s name with the
-prefix <i>Mrs.</i>, below her usual signature, and
-inclosed in parenthesis.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Similarly, for the sake of clearness, a
-business letter by an unmarried woman
-may have <i>Miss</i> in parenthesis before the
-name.</p>
-
-<p>Envelopes should be addressed to the
-recipient with the full name and necessary
-prefix—-<i>Mr.</i>, <i>Mrs.</i>, or <i>Miss</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The <i>Mr.</i>, however, must be omitted if
-<i>Esq.</i> is written after the name. The English
-custom limits the use of Esquire to
-those who are technically gentlemen. For
-example, <i>Esq.</i> is placed after the name in
-addressing a barrister, but it must not be
-used in writing to a tradesman, who is
-given only the prefix <i>Mr.</i></p>
-
-<p>The prefix <i>Mr.</i> is used when Junior or
-Senior is indicated after the name by an
-abbreviation. In such case, <i>Esq.</i> must
-never be written.</p>
-
-<p>It must be noted also that in the case of
-addresses, as with cards, to which attention
-has already been given, the husband’s title
-must not be given to the wife. <i>Mrs. Colonel</i>,
-<i>Mrs. Doctor</i>, <i>Mrs. Professor</i>, and the like,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
-are barbarisms, which are not tolerated in
-America or England. The Germans, however,
-use them.</p>
-
-<p>The phrase before the signature to a
-letter varies according to the circumstances,
-and especially according to the individual
-taste. Thus, in concluding a very formal
-communication, it is quite proper to use
-the old-fashioned wording, <i>I am, my dear
-Madam, your obedient servant</i>. An ordinary
-convenient form that covers a wide field
-is, <i>I remain</i>, <i>Yours sincerely</i>, or <i>Yours
-faithfully</i>, or <i>Yours cordially</i>, writing <i>I
-remain</i> on one line, and the <i>Yours</i>, etc., on
-the line below. Thus:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>I remain,<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 6em;">Yours sincerely,</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><i>Yours truly</i>, or <i>Very truly yours</i>, is best
-reserved for business communications.
-<i>Yours respectfully</i> is applicable for business
-communications, and also for letters addressed
-to superiors, and for use generally
-as a rather meaningless style.</p>
-
-<p>Men of exalted position are commonly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>
-addressed as <i>Sir</i> without any qualifying
-word. And the form in ending is, <i>I have,
-Sir, the honor to remain Your most obedient
-servant</i>—<i>Your</i>, etc., forming a separate
-line.</p>
-
-<p>A letter of a social sort would begin,
-<i>My dear Mr. President</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The like form would suffice for the vice-president,
-except for a letter of social character,
-when he should be addressed by
-name, <i>My dear Mr. ........................</i>.</p>
-
-<p>A justice of the supreme court, a senator,
-a member of the house of representatives,
-a cabinet officer, the governor of a state,
-etc., all have the same formal <i>Sir</i> as the
-address and the corresponding phrase in
-conclusion. But there is variation in the
-address when the letter is of social import.
-The justice may be addressed <i>My dear Justice
-.................</i>, or <i>Dear Mr. Justice
-.................</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The senator is addressed <i>My dear Senator
-.......................</i>. The representative in
-congress is addressed <i>My dear Mr. ................</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>On the envelope, the forms are respectively
-<i>Mr. Justice ...................</i>, <i>Senator
-.......................</i>, <i>Hon. ..............</i> (for the
-congressman).</p>
-
-<p>The social letter to a cabinet officer addresses
-him by name, <i>My dear .................</i>,
-and has on the envelope <i>Hon.</i> preceding the
-name and his official designation following
-it.</p>
-
-<p>A governor is usually addressed <i>My dear
-Governor .......................</i>. And the envelope
-should have the title preceding the name.</p>
-
-<p>In all cases except that of the President,
-the conclusion of a social letter is a simple
-form such as, <i>I remain, Yours very sincerely</i>.</p>
-
-<p>A mayor is addressed either as <i>Sir</i>, or
-<i>Your Honor</i>, in formal communications,
-and as <i>My dear Mayor .................</i> in
-social correspondence. The envelope properly
-gives him a full designation, <i>His Honor
-the Mayor of ....................</i>. The name
-follows, written on a lower line.</p>
-
-<p>The form of address is the same for both<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>
-official and social letters in the case of a
-Roman Catholic archbishop: <i>Most Reverend
-and Dear Sir</i>. The conclusion should
-run: <i>I have the honor to remain Your obedient
-servant</i>—<i>Your</i>, etc., being written on
-a lower line. The envelope carries <i>The
-Most Reverend ......................., Archbishop of
-..................</i>.</p>
-
-<p>All letters to a cardinal begin <i>Your Eminence</i>.
-The conclusion is the same as to
-an archbishop. The envelope reads <i>His
-Eminence Cardinal ........................</i>.</p>
-
-<p>For a Roman Catholic bishop all letters
-begin <i>Right Reverend and Dear Sir</i>. The
-conclusion is that used for the preceding
-prelates. On the envelope: <i>The Right
-Reverend .................., Bishop of ...........</i>.</p>
-
-<p>A Protestant bishop, also, is addressed
-<i>Right Reverend and Dear Sir</i> officially, but
-a social letter begins <i>My dear Bishop
-....................</i>. The conclusion may take
-the form given for Roman Catholic dignitaries,
-but for social letters it is sufficient
-to write, <i>I remain Yours sincerely</i>. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>
-envelope reads: <i>The Right Reverend ................,
-Bishop of ............................</i>.</p>
-
-<p>Both priests and Protestant clergymen
-are officially addressed: <i>Reverend and Dear
-Sir</i>. But, in a social letter, the beginning
-is <i>Dear Father ..................</i>, in the case of
-a priest; while the Protestant minister is
-addressed as <i>Dear Mr. ........................</i>, or
-<i>Dear Doctor ....................</i>, if he has such a
-title. The conclusion for either need be
-no more than: <i>I remain, Yours very sincerely</i>.
-The envelope bears, <i>The Reverend
-......................</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The possession of degrees may be indicated
-by writing the proper initials after
-the name. Where the clergyman has the
-degree of Doctor, this is sometimes used as
-an abbreviation preceding the name—<i>The
-Reverend Dr. .........................</i>.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>LUNCHEONS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t3.jpg" width="131" height="138" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE ETIQUETTE for a
-luncheon is essentially the
-same as that for a breakfast,
-which has already been described.
-But the luncheon
-at present enjoys a popularity that is distinctive
-in one respect: it serves conveniently
-very often as a function wholly for
-the entertainment of feminine guests.</p>
-
-<p>The usual hour for a luncheon is from
-one to two o’clock. The invitations, unless
-the affair is to be quite informal, should
-be sent out ten days before the date set.
-As in the case of a breakfast, the invitation
-may be sent on a visiting-card, writing
-below the name:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Luncheon at one o’clock<br />
-April the fourth</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>For an especially formal affair, the invitation
-should be engraved on square
-white cards of large size, similar to those
-employed for dinner-invitations.</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. George Vinton Thorne<br />
-<br />
-requests the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-........................................<br />
-<br />
-company at luncheon<br />
-<br />
-on ..............................<br />
-<br />
-at .......................... o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Eleven Green Street</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>A note written in the first person may
-convey the invitation, if the hostess prefers
-this manner.</p>
-
-<p>The acceptance or refusal of an invitation
-may be in the third person, following
-the examples given in the chapter on dinners,
-or it may be written as a note in the
-first person. In either case, the method
-used in the invitation itself must govern
-the style of the reply.</p>
-
-<p>At the more formal luncheon, the menu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>
-may be elaborate, with oysters, bouillon,
-fish, and other courses following to any
-desired extent, but care must be taken
-always that the general character of the
-viands served must not be oversubstantial.
-The meal should be of a distinctively lighter
-sort as compared with dinner.</p>
-
-<p>The women guests usually wear their
-most effective frocks. Wraps are left in
-the cloak-room provided, or, if this is lacking,
-in the hall. The hats are not removed,
-but the veil is either pushed up out of the
-way, or removed, according to the wearer’s
-pleasure. The gloves are taken off after
-arrival at table, and left in the lap, covered
-by the napkin.</p>
-
-<p>A guest should remain for at least half
-an hour after the completion of the meal,
-and from this minimum of time up to an
-hour or perhaps a little longer, according
-to the particular circumstances.</p>
-
-<p>The farewell of each guest should, of
-course, contain some phrase expressing appreciation
-of the hospitality enjoyed.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>MOURNING</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t4.jpg" width="130" height="138" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THERE IS ROOM for so
-much variety in the expression
-of personal tastes as
-to the matter of mourning
-that hard-and-fast rules are
-of doubtful value. There is, however, some
-degree of exactness as to the dress suitable
-for widows, although, even in this connection,
-individual choice and the changes of
-fashion exert their influence to the display
-of differing modes.</p>
-
-<p>The widow’s mourning may be divided
-into three periods, termed respectively first,
-second and third.</p>
-
-<p>The first mourning includes the entire
-costume in black. Usually, the material
-of the dress is of worsted, with a trimming
-of crêpe. The black bonnet is of crêpe,
-and from it hangs a long veil, also of crêpe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>
-Formerly, these veils were of extreme
-length, reaching even to the hem of the
-gown. The tendency has been, however,
-toward shortening the veil, and the present
-fashion insists on only a moderate length.
-Another veil, worn over the face, was formerly
-both long and heavy, but the style
-has been modified, and at present it is of
-lighter texture and of much briefer proportions.
-The bonnet has white ruching
-within the front edge, and the gown is
-trimmed with sheer white cuffs, and a collar
-of the same material.</p>
-
-<p>The gloves must be of dull black, and
-ornaments of dull jet, with a black-bordered
-handkerchief.</p>
-
-<p>This first mourning should be worn for a
-full year. A change may then be made to
-second mourning, in which the dress may
-be of crêpe de chine or dull silk, with a hat
-carrying black chiffon, etc., and ornaments
-of dull jet.</p>
-
-<p>The third mourning is assumed after
-another six months. In this white and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>
-lilac are permitted to relieve the somberness
-of the attire. This mourning is worn
-for a period of six months, also, after which
-colors may be resumed.</p>
-
-<p>It should be noted that the white ruche
-on the bonnet is the one distinctive feature
-of the first mourning that designates
-the wearer as a widow. A woman may
-wear exactly the same costume, with the
-exception of this white ruche on the bonnet,
-in the mourning for a parent, a child, a
-brother or a sister.</p>
-
-<p>The period for wearing mourning in such
-case, and the changes in it, may follow the
-details given above for widows.</p>
-
-<p>Mourning for a parent-in-law is black,
-with the crêpe omitted. This is worn for
-only a month, and is followed by any preferred
-combinations of black and white, relieved
-by lilac, for a fortnight or a little
-longer.</p>
-
-<p>The mourning for close relatives worn
-by a young unmarried woman does not
-include the bonnet and veil. Instead, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>
-hat trimmed with crêpe is worn, and a
-black net veil over the face is trimmed
-with crêpe. After six months or a year,
-the crêpe is omitted from hat and veil, and
-also from the gown. Black and white and
-lilac are then deemed suitable. Usually,
-however, the older unmarried women wear
-the veil and bonnet of the first mourning,
-as do widows, but with the white ruche
-omitted.</p>
-
-<p>Mourning is not usually adopted when
-the death is of relatives-in-law or of a
-grandparent.</p>
-
-<p>Three months is ordinarily sufficient for
-mourning in the case of an uncle or aunt,
-and it does not include crêpe. Ornaments
-may be worn, though preferably of a very
-quiet sort.</p>
-
-<p>In general, it is well to bear in mind
-that mourning should not be worn except
-for the members of one’s immediate family.
-Of course, the particular circumstances in
-each case must be a determining factor.
-For example, while mourning is not customarily<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>
-worn for a cousin, yet a girl who
-had made a home with such a relative
-might appropriately wear mourning as for
-her own mother.</p>
-
-<p>Crêpe is not deemed suitable for girls
-not yet old enough for a formal entrance
-into society, and children should be spared
-the lugubrious trappings of woe in every
-case. But a girl about sixteen years of age,
-on the death of a member of the family,
-appropriately wears a black dress, relieved
-only by touches of white, and a black hat,
-with dull black ribbons. She should leave
-off jewelry, but she should not carry a
-handkerchief with black border.</p>
-
-<p>The mourning for a widower is often
-divided into two periods. During the first,
-black is worn throughout in the costume,
-with white linen. The hat-band is of crêpe.
-The present tendency is to make this band
-much narrower than it was of yore. It is
-left off altogether after a year, or perhaps
-eight months, as the second mourning
-begins. The second mourning permits the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>
-use of gray and white in the costume. A
-man’s mourning for a child, parent, brother
-or sister may continue for a full year, or it
-may be put off after six months according
-to his choice. The mourning includes a
-hat-band of crêpe. If a man wishes to
-wear mourning for a more distant relative,
-he may use the black and white and gray
-of the widower’s second period, but men
-ordinarily do not assume mourning for any
-except closest relations.</p>
-
-<p>A mourning band on the sleeve is sometimes
-worn by men, but it is impossible to
-describe its significance from the standpoint
-of propriety, since it is worn equally
-for those most closely related and for those
-most distantly, without distinction, and
-since it is a custom derived originally from
-England, where it serves as a cheap method
-of providing mourning liveries for servants.</p>
-
-<p>After the loss of a close relation, a woman
-pays no calls for six months. After that
-time, she may visit her intimates, but not
-on their at-home days. She may also attend<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>
-concerts and theater matinées and the like,
-in a very quiet way. After a year, she
-may appear at small dinners, and at the
-theater in the evening, and the like. But
-box parties and all the elaborate functions,
-such for example as balls, must not be
-resumed until the period of mourning has
-expired.</p>
-
-<p>Elderly women are likely to prefer a
-mourning garb for the remainder of their
-lifetime, after the death of a husband. In
-such cases, after perhaps two years, the
-widow’s bonnet and veil are given up, and
-nun’s veiling is substituted. While the
-gown remains black, the crêpe is omitted
-from it, and the mourning handkerchief is
-no longer carried. Jewelry is worn, but not
-of an ostentatious kind.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>MUSICALES</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t5.jpg" width="134" height="139" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE MUSICALE is merely
-a formal at home where
-music is made a special
-feature of the entertainment.
-Throughout, the
-procedure is that of an at home, and the
-details are to be found in full in the
-chapter under that heading. The only
-formal difference is in the wording of the
-invitation, which makes mention of music
-as the feature.</p>
-
-<p>The invitations are engraved, and may
-take either of the two usual forms, according
-to the choice of the hostess.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mrs. George H. Baxter<br />
-<br />
-requests the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-.......................................<br />
-<br />
-company<br />
-<br />
-at a musicale<br />
-<br />
-on Friday evening, May first<br />
-<br />
-at half-past nine o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Twenty-seven Maple Street</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Or the at-home form may be used as
-follows:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. George H. Baxter<br />
-<br />
-At Home<br />
-<br />
-Friday evening, May first<br />
-<br />
-at half-past nine o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Twenty-seven Maple Street<br />
-<br />
-Music</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Such an affair in the evening is often of
-the most elaborate character, and is essentially
-a concert. But a musicale may be
-given with equal propriety in the afternoon.
-The form for engraved invitations<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>
-is precisely the same, with the single exception
-of the hours named, for the afternoon
-entertainment specifies the time as <i>from
-four until seven o’clock</i>.</p>
-
-<p>For a less formal occasion, a hostess may
-extend her invitations by sending a visiting-card,
-on which she writes, below her name,
-<i>Friday, May first, four to seven o’clock</i>, and
-underneath this the single word <i>Music</i>.
-Or in place of the word <i>Music</i>, she may
-write <i>To hear</i> .............. adding the name
-of a particular performer.</p>
-
-<p>The obligations of the guests follow in
-all respects those to which attention has
-been already given under the title “At
-Homes.” Thus, in the matter of costumes,
-the usage resembles that explained concerning
-correct garb for both afternoon
-and evening receptions in the earlier
-chapter.</p>
-
-<p>It might be well to emphasize the fact
-that no direct reply is required for an invitation
-announcing that the hostess will be
-at home on a certain date. But the case is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>
-quite otherwise when that form of invitation
-is employed which requests the pleasure
-of the guest’s company. This demands
-a prompt answer, whether of acceptance or
-of refusal, which should be couched in the
-third person. Thus:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Henry Sage Beckett<br />
-<br />
-accept with pleasure<br />
-<br />
-Mrs. Baxter’s kind invitation<br />
-<br />
-for May first<br />
-<br />
-Nineteen Wentworth Square<br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">April twenty-first, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>Or, in the event of inability to accept, or
-disinclination, the answer should run as
-follows:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Henry Sage Beckett<br />
-<br />
-regret that a previous engagement<br />
-<br />
-prevents their acceptance<br />
-<br />
-of Mrs. Baxter’s kind invitation<br />
-<br />
-for May first<br />
-<br />
-Nineteen Wentworth Square<br />
-<br />
-<span style="margin-left: 12em;">April twenty-first, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>OPERA</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a.jpg" width="136" height="141" alt="A" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">A &nbsp; SUFFICIENT FORM for
-an invitation to an opera
-party will be found in the
-chapter on the theater,
-which needs only a verbal
-change to specify the particular performance
-at the opera instead of at the playhouse.
-In general, also, the procedure
-suited to attendance at the theater is to
-be followed in connection with the opera.
-But there are certain differences that
-should be regarded.</p>
-
-<p>The dress for the opera is more formal
-than for the theater, generally speaking.
-The man, for example, usually keeps his
-white gloves on. The woman, for her part,
-wears a gown that is sleeveless and decolleté,
-and displays jewels according to her
-means or taste. An aigrette takes the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>
-place of the hat that may be worn to the
-theater. Nevertheless, it is quite permissible
-for a woman occupying a stall in the
-orchestra at the opera to wear a costume
-of the sort commonly seen at the theater.</p>
-
-<p>Visiting at the opera is a distinctive
-feature, facilitated as it is by the number
-of boxes, so greatly in excess of those with
-which the theater is supplied. For it is
-with the boxes that this visiting is chiefly
-concerned, though it reaches to some extent
-to the orchestra stalls.</p>
-
-<p>Between acts is the proper time for such
-calls, which are usually, but not exclusively,
-paid by men. A gentleman may
-call on a lady of his acquaintance in a box,
-though she is a guest of a host or hostess
-who is not known to him. In such case,
-the woman to whom he pays the visit must
-introduce him to her entertainer. But an
-introduction of the sort is merely formal,
-and entails no necessity of subsequent
-recognition by either party.</p>
-
-<p>No more than five minutes, or even less,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>
-should be given to such calls, but some discretion
-is permitted by the particular circumstances.
-Thus, where there are many
-coming and going, the time should be
-shorter than when there are few other
-visitors, or none. The call should never
-extend beyond the end of the intermission.</p>
-
-<p>Since an opera box is equipped with a
-vestibule of its own, the women do not
-leave their wraps in the cloak-room, but
-wait until their arrival at the box, when
-they are taken off in the vestibule. Afterward,
-on entering the box, the chaperon
-and other older women precede the younger,
-and are offered the choice of seats. But
-they usually prefer the less conspicuous
-positions, and the chairs at the rail are
-given to the débutantes, or younger matrons.
-The exact arrangement is always a
-matter for the display of tact on the part
-of host or hostess.</p>
-
-<p>Visiting among the stalls is necessarily
-more limited, but is practised to any extent
-rendered convenient by location.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In such visiting, the ordinary amenities
-of social intercourse are to be observed.
-The men, for example, must stand when a
-lady enters the box in which they are seated,
-and they should remain standing until her
-departure, or until she has taken a chair.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>PRIVATE THEATRICALS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-p.jpg" width="129" height="130" alt="P" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">PRIVATE THEATRICALS
-are usually the feature of an
-evening function.</p>
-
-<p>The form of invitation is
-exactly the same as for a
-musicale, with the one exception in substituting
-<i>Theatricals at ten o’clock</i>. The
-phrase appears thus in the at-home form
-of announcement. When the invitation
-requests the pleasure of the guest’s company,
-<i>At Private Theatricals</i> is preferred
-as the descriptive statement.</p>
-
-<p>On occasions when the theatricals are
-to be followed by a dance, the word <i>Dancing</i>
-is added at the bottom of the card.</p>
-
-<p>The letters <i>R.s.v.p.</i> are commonly employed
-in connection with such invitations,
-and their appearance on the card emphasizes
-the necessity of a written reply.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>RECEPTIONS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a2.jpg" width="131" height="138" alt="A" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">ALL DETAILS of the etiquette
-that has to do with
-receptions, whether they are
-held in the afternoon or in
-the evening, are carefully
-described in the chapter treating various
-forms of the at home.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>SMOKING</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-a3.jpg" width="131" height="130" alt="A" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">A &nbsp; GUEST in the home of
-another must not smoke unless
-invited to do so by host
-or hostess.</p>
-
-<p>A man in the presence of
-a lady must not smoke unless he asks for,
-and receives, permission to do so.</p>
-
-<p>A man should not smoke when walking
-with a woman in public.</p>
-
-<p>A man must not converse while holding
-cigar, pipe, or cigarette in his mouth.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>STAIRS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i.jpg" width="122" height="131" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">IN A FORMER generation,
-women hid their ankles, and
-gave brief glimpses of them
-only by accident or naughty
-design. It was then required
-of a gentleman that he should precede a
-lady in ascending stairs. To-day, fashion
-has cleared away all mystery concerning
-feminine ankles, and a gentleman is permitted
-to follow the lady as she mounts the
-stairs.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>STREET ETIQUETTE</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-w2.jpg" width="129" height="130" alt="W" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">WHEN A MAN and woman
-walk together in the street,
-the man’s proper position is
-usually on the side toward
-the curb, and he maintains
-this place also when walking with two
-women. He should never station himself
-between them, unless under the informal
-circumstances of a country road, or the like.</p>
-
-<p>In the day time, a man does not offer a
-woman his arm when they walk together,
-though of course he should give her the
-support of his hand under her elbow when
-such assistance is obviously required, as
-in mounting the steps of a car. But in the
-evening a man properly offers his arm to a
-woman when they are to walk together,
-and she lays her hand on his forearm.
-They should never hook arms.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>When a man and woman who are acquainted
-with each other meet in the
-street, it is the woman’s place to extend
-recognition by a nod and smile, which
-latter varies from coldness to warmth
-according to her will. On receiving such
-recognition, for which in any formal acquaintance
-he must wait, the man raises
-his hat, and at the same time bows.</p>
-
-<p>When a man is walking with a woman,
-he must salute in the same fashion any
-others that pass who recognize either himself
-or his companion, except that where
-the person is not an acquaintance of his
-own, he merely lifts his hat without bowing.</p>
-
-<p>When a man encounters a woman on the
-street, and wishes to talk with her, he
-should not detain her, but with her permission
-should turn and walk beside her.
-The woman, however, is privileged thus to
-retain the man in conversation, but she
-should withdraw to one side, out of the
-way of passers-by.</p>
-
-<p>In escorting a woman in a car, the man<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>
-should assist her to enter, and then follow.
-But in leaving, he precedes her and descends
-first, then turning to help her down.</p>
-
-<p>Good sense must determine the precise
-conduct for propriety in various circumstances.
-Ordinarily, where a couple cannot
-well walk side by side, the man follows
-behind the woman. But where the way
-is difficult for any reason, he goes in advance—as,
-for example, when it becomes
-necessary to force the way through a
-crowd.</p>
-
-<p>Some men make a point of standing uncovered
-throughout the length of any conversation
-with a woman in the street.
-This mode is not to be encouraged, especially
-in the inclement northern winter.
-Merely raising the hat at meeting and
-again at parting is quite sufficient.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>TABLE MANNERS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-d.jpg" width="127" height="131" alt="D" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">DEPORTMENT AT TABLE
-is the most important single
-item in the total of good
-manners. Yet, the requirements
-are very simple—so
-simple indeed that there is little excuse
-for those who fail in them.</p>
-
-<p>It should hardly be necessary to say
-that the position must be one of well-balanced
-erectness. A man’s hands should
-be kept in his lap when not busy. So of
-a woman’s—formerly. Of recent years,
-a new custom has crept in, and it is common
-to see a woman’s forearm or elbow
-resting at ease on the table.</p>
-
-<p>The napkin is only partly unfolded, and
-laid across the lap. In the case of a woman,
-it covers her gloves, which she has taken
-off on seating herself. At the end of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>
-meal, the crumpled napkin is laid beside
-the plate. But, when making an extended
-stay with friends, the napkin is folded if
-the host and hostess fold theirs in preparation
-for use at another meal.</p>
-
-<p>The knife is employed only for cutting
-purposes, being then held in the right hand.
-It is afterward put down, while the fork
-is transferred to the right hand for passing
-food to the mouth. When not in use both
-knife and fork are left on the plate. They
-should not be held in the hands, or laid
-down on the table. They are to remain
-on the plate also if it is sent for another
-helping. When eating is ended, knife and
-fork are laid together on the plate—parallel,
-points to the center, and the fork tines
-down.</p>
-
-<p>The fork should be used throughout
-with the tines downward. It is only used
-spoon-fashion for small vegetables such as
-peas. The fork rather than a spoon should
-be used for eating ices, melons, and the
-like. It is used to fold lettuce and other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>
-salad leaves, which must not be cut with
-a knife.</p>
-
-<p>The knife is used only for cutting, and
-is afterward laid down on the plate.</p>
-
-<p>Beverages in glasses or cups are tested
-by sipping from a spoon, which is then
-laid down. Afterward one drinks directly
-from the container. The spoon must never
-be allowed to stand in a cup or glass. For
-taking soup, the spoon is pushed forward,
-not drawn toward one. The soup plate is
-never tipped. The liquid must be taken
-into the mouth from the side of the spoon
-never from the end.</p>
-
-<p>Boiled eggs are properly eaten with a
-spoon, of course, as are jellies, custards
-and the like, grape-fruit and various fruits
-served with cream, and cereals.</p>
-
-<p>A finger-bowl is properly used on finishing
-a fruit course. A slight rinsing of the
-finger-tips suffices, after which they are
-wiped on the napkin.</p>
-
-<p>Butter is not served at formal dinners.</p>
-
-<p>At all other meals a special plate is laid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>
-for bread and butter, and a small knife
-of silver for spreading the butter. The
-bread is broken with the fingers, a mouthful
-at a time and separately buttered.
-Cake is eaten either in the fingers or with
-a fork.</p>
-
-<p>Cheese is cut into small pieces. Each
-piece is placed on a mouthful of bread or
-cracker, and then eaten from the fingers.</p>
-
-<p>Apples, pears, etc., are quartered, peeled,
-cut in mouthfuls, and then eaten from
-the fingers. Smaller fruits with pits are
-eaten from the fingers. Each pit is taken
-from the mouth in the closed hand and deposited
-on the plate.</p>
-
-<p>Asparagus is eaten with a fork. That
-part of the stalk not easily cut by the fork
-is left. But burr artichokes are eaten from
-the fingers a leaf at a time, after it has
-been dipped in the sauce. Only the heart
-demands the use of a fork.</p>
-
-<p>Celery, olives and radishes are eaten
-from the fingers. So, also, are crystallized
-fruits, almonds and other nuts.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>When leaving the table at the conclusion
-of a meal elsewhere than in one’s own
-house, the chair is left without being
-pushed back close to the table.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>TEAS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-i2.jpg" width="129" height="136" alt="I" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">IN THE COUNTRY, where
-the dinner is in the middle
-of the day, the evening meal
-is called either supper or
-tea, and an invitation to tea
-ordinarily means an invitation to the evening
-meal. In England, where afternoon
-tea-serving is universal among all classes,
-the evening meal is frequently designated
-high tea.</p>
-
-<p>The proprieties concerning afternoon tea
-are explained in the chapter entitled, “At
-Homes.”</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>THEATER-PARTIES</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-w3.jpg" width="125" height="126" alt="W" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">WHEN A THEATER-PARTY
-is to be given, it is not customary
-to use the engraved
-form of invitations, but notes
-written in the first person
-suffice.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<p class="right">
-<i>97 Hamilton Street,<br />
-<span style="margin-right: 1em;">May 1, 1919</span></i><br />
-</p>
-
-<i>My dear Miss Hammer:</i>
-
-<p><i>Will you give me the pleasure of
-dining with me on Wednesday evening
-of next week, at seven o’clock, and of
-afterward witnessing the new play at
-the Brooke Theater?</i></p>
-
-<p><i>In the hope that you are free that
-evening and kindly disposed toward my
-invitation, I remain,</i></p>
-
-<p class="sig">
-<i><span style="margin-right: 2em;">Yours sincerely,</span><br />
-Mary Holmes</i><br />
-</p></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>To such an invitation, the guest should
-return an immediate reply, either of acceptance
-or rejection, written in the first person,
-after the manner of the other missive.</p>
-
-<p>It is within the discretion of the host or
-hostess to secure orchestra seats, or a box.
-Care should be taken, in the case of a box,
-not to have a sufficient number of guests
-to cause crowding. The invitations should
-be sent out about a week before the evening
-of the party, but a longer or shorter
-notice is permissible. A bachelor may find
-it more convenient to give his invitations
-in person, orally, and such laxity is allowable
-on his part.</p>
-
-<p>The giver of the entertainment may use
-his or her discretion in having attendance
-on the play preceded by an early dinner-party,
-which may include all or only a part
-of his guests; or having it followed by a
-supper-party. Or the theater alone may
-be deemed a sufficient entertainment.</p>
-
-<p>Very often, a host orders an omnibus to
-collect his guests for a theater-party and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>
-to carry them to the theater, and back
-home after the performance. If this is
-done, the invitation should specify the
-fact, and notify the guest of the exact
-time of the omnibus’s arrival.</p>
-
-<p>When a man invites an unmarried woman
-to be his companion at the theater, he is
-expected also to invite another woman,
-either a relation or friend, according to
-circumstances, who shall act as chaperon.
-But this rule is not too strictly enforced
-where a friendship exists between a man
-and a spinster of mature age.</p>
-
-<p>It is the duty of the man to call in person
-for his guests, and to provide them
-with fitting transportation to and from the
-theater. On their arrival at the theater, if
-the women leave their wraps in the cloak-room,
-he also should check his hat and
-coat. He allows the ladies to precede him,
-and inside the theater secures programs
-for them, and then gives his checks to the
-usher. The usher now leads the way, with
-the ladies following and the host bringing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>
-up the rear. If he has retained his coat
-and hat, he places his hat under the seat
-and lays the folded coat over the back of
-the chair or holds it across his knees. He
-is careful always to retain the checks during
-the evening since lack of them might
-prove embarrassing if any error has been
-made in the seating arrangements, as
-sometimes happens.</p>
-
-<p>A man thus escorting ladies to the theater
-properly remains with them throughout
-the performance. The only justifiable excuse
-for leaving them for a few minutes is
-when he occupies an aisle seat, and then
-only when during an intermission a friend
-comes to pay his respects, who can take
-his place until the rising of the curtain.</p>
-
-<p>The man wears evening dress for the
-theater. He should by no means appear
-in a tailless coat when acting as an escort
-for ladies, or when a guest in a party that
-includes ladies. He is permitted, however,
-to remove his gloves on arrival at the theater.
-The silk hat is often inconvenient for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>
-theater purposes, and for that reason the
-crush hat has been preferred. But this
-folding form of headgear has lost its vogue
-to a great extent, and there is a growing
-tendency toward the use of a black soft hat
-for such evening wear.</p>
-
-<p>The more usual form of woman’s dress is
-not the decolleté of the ball-gown, but a
-less extreme style, with sleeves. It is, of
-course, of such elegance as to suit the
-occasion. But the low-neck and sleeveless
-gown is frequently to be seen, more especially
-in the boxes.</p>
-
-<p>With the less formal costume, a hat is
-worn. This and the veil may be removed
-in the cloak-room, or, if the wrap is retained,
-it may be kept on until the seat is
-reached. The outer garment is then folded
-and laid over the back of the chair. After
-having seated herself, the woman then unpins
-her veil and removes it, together with
-the hat, and these are afterward held in
-the lap.</p>
-
-<p>If the arrival at the theater is a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>
-late, and the wraps are not left in the
-cloak-room, it is the part of good taste to
-remove them before passing down the aisle
-to the seats. Otherwise, their removal becomes
-an unpleasant interruption to those
-seated near by.</p>
-
-<p>This same matter of consideration for
-the rights of others is the reason why it is
-necessary that the hats should be removed,
-since it would shut off the view of the stage
-from those seated behind. It should be
-borne in mind always, also, that this consideration
-for others should extend to the
-matter of conversation during the performance,
-which must be rigidly suppressed.
-Care ought to be taken in every respect lest
-there be an impolite intrusion on the rights
-of others.</p>
-
-<p>If there is supper in a restaurant after
-the play, the wraps should be left in the
-cloak-room as a rule, but a woman may
-retain one of a sort that is not cumbersome,
-according to her pleasure. The hat is not
-removed for the meal. The veil may<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>
-either be pushed up or taken off according
-to the individual preference. The gloves
-are removed after the party is seated at
-table, and kept in the lap under the napkin
-until the conclusion of the meal. They are
-put on again before leaving the table.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2>WEDDINGS</h2>
-
-
-<div>
- <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-t2.jpg" width="130" height="140" alt="T" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-capi">THE WEDDING-INVITATIONS
-are sent out fully
-two weeks before the marriage,
-at least, and they
-may be sent earlier, up to
-a limit of two months.</p>
-
-<p>The invitation is engraved on white
-paper, of which there is a double sheet.
-The invitation itself must occupy only the
-first page. An average size is between
-seven and eight inches in length and about
-an inch less in width. Script is usually
-preferred. The invitation is folded once
-and placed in an unsealed envelope with
-the guest’s name written on it. Another
-envelope is used to contain this, on which
-are written both the name and address,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>
-and it is sealed for delivery by post or
-messenger.</p>
-
-<p>It should be borne in mind that, while
-husband and wife are joined in a single
-invitation, other members of the family
-must be separately invited, except that
-more than one daughter may be included
-under the designation <i>The Misses ....................</i>,
-and similarly more than one son, <i>The
-Messrs. ....................</i>. Otherwise, a daughter
-receives an individual invitation, as
-does also a son.</p>
-
-<p>In cities, on the occasion of church weddings
-where strangers often intrude, it is
-common to inclose with the invitation a
-small card inscribed:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Please present this card at<br />
-<br />
-the Church of the Incarnation<br />
-<br />
-on Tuesday, June the first</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>A standard form for the wording of the
-invitation is as follows:</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Hudson<br />
-<br />
-request the honor of your presence<br />
-<br />
-at the marriage of their daughter<br />
-<br />
-Harriet<br />
-<br />
-to<br />
-<br />
-Mr. James Meade Trowbridge<br />
-<br />
-on Tuesday afternoon, June the first<br />
-<br />
-at half-past three o’clock<br />
-<br />
-The Church of the Incarnation<br />
-<br />
-Baltimore</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The invitations are issued in the names
-of the bride’s parents, or, lacking them,
-in the name of her nearest relative, unless
-this should be an unmarried sister. When
-the invitations are issued by a brother,
-his name only may be used, even though
-he is married. But where the relation is a
-married woman, the name of the husband
-also appears on the invitations. Such invitations
-issued by some one other than the
-parents follow the form given above exactly,
-save that the full name of the bride must
-be given instead of her Christian name<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>
-alone, and, of course, the proper relationship
-must be indicated by a word substituted
-for <i>daughter</i>.</p>
-
-<p>It is usual, when the bride is a step-daughter,
-to specify the relationship in
-the invitation. Thus, in the form given
-above, if Harriet were the daughter of Mrs.
-Hudson by a previous marriage, the phrase
-would run, <i>at the marriage of Mrs. Hudson’s
-daughter, Harriet Blake Rothwell</i>. If she
-were the daughter of Mr. Hudson, the
-phrase would be, <i>at the marriage of Mr.
-Hudson’s daughter, Harriet</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The invitations to either a wedding-breakfast
-or reception is inclosed with the
-invitation to the ceremony, but the engraved
-card is of the ordinary size.</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Hudson<br />
-<br />
-request the pleasure of<br />
-<br />
-..........................<br />
-<br />
-company<br />
-<br />
-on Tuesday, June first<br />
-<br />
-at half-past twelve o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Thirty-six Fremont Avenue</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>But often the name is omitted, and the
-invitation may read simply:</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Reception<br />
-<br />
-From four o’clock<br />
-<br />
-Thirty-six Fremont Avenue</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>The initials <i>R.s.v.p.</i> may be used in the
-lower left-hand corner of either form.</p>
-
-<p>The only essential difference in the form
-of the invitation to a home-wedding is that
-instead of asking for the <i>honor of your
-presence</i>, the request is for the <i>pleasure of
-your company</i>. Of course, the home-address
-must be given at the end, instead of the
-name of the church. When the ceremony
-is to be performed in the presence of only
-a limited number of friends, those who are
-to witness it receive with their invitation
-a small engraved card, inscribed <i>Ceremony
-at three o’clock</i>, or whatever the hour may
-be.</p>
-
-<p>Announcement-cards, following the celebration
-of a quiet wedding, are sent out
-on the day of the marriage. The paper
-used is the same as that for the invitations.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. and Mrs. Henry L. Hudson<br />
-<br />
-have the honor of announcing<br />
-<br />
-the marriage of their daughter<br />
-<br />
-Harriet<br />
-<br />
-to<br />
-<br />
-Mr. James Meade Trowbridge<br />
-<br />
-on Tuesday, June the first<br />
-<br />
-at the Church of The Incarnation</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p>A combination-card of bride and groom,
-with their address, and perhaps her at-home
-day, may be inclosed with the announcement.</p>
-
-<p>If, for any reason, the announcement-cards
-are not issued by the bride’s relatives,
-they may be sent out by the engaged pair,
-using the bride’s maiden name</p>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Mr. George Hart Bagot<br />
-<br />
-and<br />
-<br />
-Miss Mary Elizabeth Peck<br />
-<br />
-have the honor of announcing their marriage<br />
-<br />
-on Monday, June the seventh<br />
-<br />
-at the Church of The Incarnation<br />
-<br />
-Albany</i><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Unless the invitation to a wedding carries
-the letters <i>R.s.v.p.</i>, it does not require
-any reply, but an invitation to the reception
-or breakfast should be acknowledged
-by two visiting-cards, sent to the bride’s
-parents, when attendance is not possible
-or convenient. An acceptance or declination
-is written in the third person, and follows
-the corresponding form in reference
-to a dinner-invitation, with the necessary
-verbal change, substituting, <i>wedding-reception
-of their daughter</i>, for <i>dinner</i>.</p>
-
-<p>No acknowledgment is required for announcement-cards;
-but it is well to call
-on, or leave cards for, the bride’s parents.</p>
-
-<p>It is impossible to state exactly all the
-details in connection with the marriage-ceremony,
-since the variations in personal
-taste and circumstances are such that the
-wedding may be fittingly celebrated in
-almost regal state, with a dozen bridesmaids
-and everything else with like profusion,
-or the rite may be carried out with
-a plainness and simplicity that yet perhaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>
-yields a significance more touching
-than that of the gorgeous spectacle. Each
-circle in every community has its own
-accepted traditions, and it is always better
-that these should be followed. The vagaries
-of fashion may often tempt its votaries
-to extravagances in following the
-fads and fancies of the moment. But there
-should be no frivolous tampering with the
-marriage rite, which is proclaimed as a
-sacrament by the church, and should be
-always esteemed as the most sacred act
-in the lives of those who thus make their
-covenants together.</p>
-
-<p>It need only be added that for an evening
-wedding the bridegroom wears the regulation
-evening clothes, while for an hour
-earlier in the day his costume includes a
-frock-coat of black or dark blue, a black
-or white waistcoat, and striped trousers of
-a lighter shade than the coat. The scarf
-should be a white ascot, caught with a
-pearl pin.</p>
-
-<p>He wears patent-leather shoes and gray<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>
-suède gloves. A silk hat forms the headgear
-to accompany either the evening
-dress or the other.</p>
-
-<p>A maiden bride should wear white and
-a veil of tulle with orange blossoms. The
-gown may be decolleté and sleeveless for
-an evening wedding. A woman who has
-been married before may wear any color
-pleasing to her, but not white, and she
-must not veil herself, nor display the
-orange blossoms. A train properly distinguishes
-the wedding-gown.</p>
-
-<p>On receipt of an invitation to a wedding,
-any gift should be sent to the bride without
-delay. There is no obligation on the part
-of a merely formal acquaintance to send
-a gift when invited to a church wedding,
-but it is permissible. Such an obligation
-exists for one invited to the breakfast or
-reception, as well as one to be among a
-limited number present at the actual marriage
-on the occasion of a home wedding.
-Sometimes, those invited to a church wedding
-compromise by sending flowers.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The distinction between the maiden and
-the matron is again emphasized in the
-matter of the bouquet carried by the
-bride, which for the maiden should be of
-white flowers, such as lilies of the valley,
-while for the woman it must be at least
-touched with color—perhaps of orchids.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<div class="bbox">
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 202px;">
-<img src="images/i_151.jpg" width="202" height="187" alt="Emblem: Made Easy Sesries" />
-</div>
-
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THERE is no royal road to learning.</p>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">IT is an old saying, and a true one, in a sense:
-for prince and peasant must alike travel
-the path.</p>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">YET, there are many paths, and great differences
-among them, as they lead to the
-temple of knowledge. In some, the going is easy:
-in some, hard. In some, the journeying is
-pleasant and profitable: in some, toilsome—a
-weary scramble over many stumbling blocks.</p>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THE builder of the road is the teacher. It
-is his task to smooth the way, and to
-make it straight: or to leave it all cluttered,
-a twisted, haphazard course, that runs roughly
-and reaches nowhere.</p>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">IN the “Made Easy” Series, it has been the
-publisher’s purpose to provide for the
-student the best possible road to learning—a
-road truly royal in its simplicity, its worth:
-a road wide and direct, and free from foolish,
-needless litter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">THE various writers of the books in the
-series have been chosen for their special
-fitness. Such fitness includes, in the first
-place, mastery of the particular subject: in
-the second place, ability to interpret knowledge
-to others.</p>
-
-<p class="drop-cap">RIGHT teaching makes easy learning. Few
-subjects are really hard to learn, when
-properly set before the pupil. These volumes
-are the product of a painstaking care to simplify
-every detail of instruction, yet to make it complete.
-The result for the student is, indeed,
-a learning made easy, yet none the less exact,
-thorough, wholly adequate for his needs.</p>
-
-
-
-<p><i>The volumes now ready, or in the course of
-preparation</i>—price $1.00 each—are:</p>
-
-
-<ul class="booklist"><li>Arithmetic Made Easy</li>
-<li>Spelling Made Easy</li>
-<li>Penmanship Made Easy</li>
-<li>Grammar Made Easy</li>
-<li>Drawing Made Easy</li>
-<li>Dressmaking Made Easy</li>
-<li>Dancing Made Easy</li>
-<li>Etiquette Made Easy</li>
-<li>Keeping Young Made Easy</li>
-<li>Love Letters Made Easy</li>
-<li>Shorthand Made Easy</li>
-<li>Bookkeeping Made Easy</li>
-<li>Entertaining Made Easy</li>
-<li>Tricks and Magic Made Easy</li>
-<li>Mental Healing Made Easy</li></ul>
-
-
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>Further titles will be added as opportunity presents itself to secure
-the proper type of manuscript.</i></p></div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's Etiquette Made Easy, by Edward Summers Squier
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